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GrowFAQ : Odor
control

How can I build my own ozone generator? (jigaboo's
plans)

Added by:
snoofer  Last edited by:
snoofer  Viewed: 796 times

Rated by 5 users:
9.00/10

Contributed by: jigaboo

Thanks to: jolly green giant (cannabis world)

Submitted: 08-13-2001

Parts:
·
Timer. My timer came out of an industrial machine from a
factory. A timer is needed to regulate the amount of
ozone; ozone can be harmful to everyone and everything
if the concentration becomes too high.
·
Transformer. The transformer is from an old neon beer
sign. I got mine from a flea market for $15. You could
probably find one at a sign shop, or I see there are
several on ebay ( Just type “neon transformer” under
search). Mine has a voltage output of 9000 volts @ 30
milliamps.
· Pvc tube. My tube is 4" pvc (I
originally wanted to use 6" but could only scrounge up
this piece of 4"). The rest is made out of 3/8" plastic.

· Glass. 1/8" thick x 10" long x 3.75" glass plate.
(Commercial ozone machines commonly use Pyrex tubes)

· Fan. A 120v Computer fan
· Epoxy
· 2
pieces of perforated steel (stainless is best, as o3 is
corrosive)

The whole thing cost a total of $33
to build.

The main ozone-producing component are
2 pieces of expanded steel on each side of a 1/8" glass
plate, epoxied it into the pvc tube, with a computer fan
on one end. Wires run through a couple holes in the tube
to the transformer. Naturally the bigger the element the
more ozone you will put out, but if you noticed my
element is small and works well. The Skunkzooka runs for
only 20 seconds per half hour. Works AWESOME. At first
the o3 smell was very strong, but after I got the timing
figured out you can't smell o3 and you can't smell the
plants.

Construction:

The box
underneath holds the transformer and associated wiring.
Mine is made of 3/8" thick plastic salvaged from the
side of a large shipping container. I was originally
going to use plywood for this until I came across the
plastic. I cut 2 pieces of the plastic for the ends an
inch wider than the dia. of the tube. This way when I
cut the holes for the tube, I would have a half inch on
both sides for strength. My tube is 4.5" so my ends were
5.5" wide. I made them long enough so that the
transformer had room underneath the tube. 10" in my
case.

I used a Roto-Zip to cut the holes for the
tube to slide through. You also need a bottom. Mine was
also 10". 10"x5.5"(the width of sides).

The
element was made from a piece of 1/8" thick x 10" long x
3.75" wide glass (the inside diameter of the tube). I
had this cut at a glass shop for a whole .45 cents. They
even ground the edges so I wouldn't get cut. The
thickness of the glass doesn't make a huge difference. I
got my glass at a glass shop, but your could also use
picture frame glass or a 10"x12" glass cutting board.
They all worked fine.

I then cut 2 pieces of
expanded steel. You can use screen fencing or whatever.
These were cut so that they were 1/2" smaller all the
way around than the glass so you don't get “arc over”.
So my screen was cut to 9"x2&3/4". Just cut the 2
pieces of screen (or whatever) about a half an inch
smaller on all sides than the glass. This is so it
doesn't arc around the glass and spark. I glued the
screens directly to the glass with a little epoxy.

I got the computer fan from Radio Shack. I
ground the square edges off on one side as shown in the
pic and it slid perfectly into the back end of the tube.
I secured with a couple small screws. I also had to
drill a small hole for the fan wires.

I drilled
holes in the bottom side of the tube for the transformer
wires to go up through.

To assemble, I first
slid the wires through the holes in the tube as far as I
could so that they hung out the end. I then soldered one
wire to each of the screens.

After that, I glued
each screen to the center of each side of the glass with
an epoxy for glass. I tried hot glue but it didn't stick
very well to the glass. When all was dried I pulled the
wires back through while at the same time sliding the
element into the tube. Once it was in position I used a
little more epoxy to hold it in place. I think silicone
would be a better choice for this, in case you need to
remove the element in the future. After everything had
dried, I slid the 2 end pieces I had cut earlier over
the ends of the tube.

I set the bottom in place
and again epoxied everything into place. Once the epoxy
dried I added a few screws for added strength.

The only things left to do is to wire it up. The
transformer still had the old pull chain switch so I
took this off and added a toggle switch instead. As you
can see, the switch and timer are mounted into side
panels that were cut from some thinner plastic and then
attached with a few screws. I built mine like this
because I can hang it from the ceiling or set it on the
floor and it's easily portable.

If you look
above at the pic of my element you see it’s very simple.
It's just 2 pieces of perforated steel with a sheet of
glass glued between them. You could use window screen or
some type of fencing or just about anything metal.
Aluminum or stainless is ok too. My next one I will use
stainless, as o3 is corrosive and will attack almost
everything.

How it works:

You
have the element with one wire from the transformer
(there are 2) to each of the 2 metal plates. Now,
normally glass is an insulator, but with high voltages,
electricity can actually flow through the glass. Big
yellow sparks are NOT good.

When you shut the
lights off and turn it on you see a blue glow. If you
look closely (not too close!) you will see it is
thousands of mini lightning bolts jumping through the
glass between the two plates. Ozone is created by those
thousands of mini lightning bolts ripping oxygen atoms
from the air. The oxygen combines into an unstable o3-.
This negative charge is attracted to small particles
(including dust, pollen, spores, bacteria and other
molecules) in the air. When they touch, the o3 destroys
them and reverts back to o2.

The best timer is a
cycle timer, with a variable on and off time setting.
Here, I use a 2 timer setup. The main timer is a
Wal-Mart timer that switches every 15 minutes. The other
timer (plugs into the 15 min timer) is 0.1 to 10 second
timer. So, every 15 min, power runs for 10 seconds.

Construction options:

You could
mount the element in a 5 gallon bucket and drill holes
in the sides for the ozone to get out and then mount a
small fan in the lid to exhaust it. You could also mount
the transformer on the lid and then carry it wherever
you want. I mounted one in a Rubbermaid tub once that
also worked great.

Last modified: 21:38 - Jul 15,
2003

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faq:1544 "How can I build my own ozone
generator? (jigaboo's
plans)"