Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Washington, DC

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Washington, DC Neighborhoods

Explore

National Mall

White House Area & Foggy Bottom

Georgetown

Capitol Hill

Downtown & Penn Quarter

Dupont Circle

Exploring Jazzy U Street & Shaw

Adams Morgan

Mixing It Up in Columbia Heights

Arlington National Cemetery

Best

The Best of Washington, DC

Iconic Washington

Embassies & Mansions

Eating

Bars & Clubs

Shopping

Live Music

For Free

Museums & Monuments

For Kids

Gay & Lesbian

Theater & Performing Arts

Art & Architecture

History & Politics

Sports & Activities

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Washington, DC

Getting Around

Essential Information

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Washington, DC

The USA's capital teems with iconic monuments, vast (and free) museums, and the corridors of power where visionaries and demagogues roam. Seeing the White House and soaring Capitol will thrill, but it's the cobblestoned neighborhoods, global cafes and jazzy bohemian quarters that really make you fall for DC, no matter your politics.

Road to the Capitol

Kevin Voelker/Getty Images ©

1

Washington, DC

Top Sights

Lincoln Memorial

There's something extraordinary about climbing the steps of Abe Lincoln's Doric-columned temple, staring into his solemn eyes, and reading about the 'new birth of freedom' carved in stone beside him. Click here

Lincoln Memorial

Stephen J Boitano/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Simple and moving, the black wall shows the names of the Vietnam War's 58,272 American casualties, listed in the order they died. The mementos people leave will break your heart. Click here

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

R H Productions/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

Washington Monument

DC's tallest structure – the 555ft obelisk honoring the nation's first president – is back in business after renovations, and it's more viewtastic than ever. Click here

Washington Monument

Topher Simon photography/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

Capitol

You're welcome to go inside this mighty, white-domed edifice and count the statues, ogle the frescoes and visit the chambers of the folks who run the country. Click here

Capitol

Danita Delimont/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

White House

Tour the president's home and learn stories about Martin Van Buren's favorite color, Eleanor Roosevelt's ghost sightings and Bill Clinton's jogging track, among many others. Click here

White House

Visions Of Our Land/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

National Archives

Gawp at the Declaration of Independence, the real, live, yellowing parchment with John Hancock's, er, John Hancock scrawled across it. The Constitution and Bill of Rights unfurl nearby. Click here

National Archives

Walter Bibikow/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

US Holocaust Memorial Museum

Brutal, direct and impassioned, the museum uses artifacts, historic film footage and eyewitness testimonies to remember the millions of people murdered by the Nazis. Click here

US Holocaust Memorial Museum

Lucidio Studio Inc/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

National Air & Space Museum

The Wright brothers' first airplane? Check. Lindbergh's Spirit of St Louis? Uh-huh. Skylab? Yup. Name the famed machine and it's displayed here, along with hulking rockets and nuclear missiles. Click here

National Air & Space Museum

Jean-Pierre Lescourret/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

Arlington National Cemetery

An eternal flame flickers over the grave of John F Kennedy, while rifle-toting military guards maintain a 24-hour vigil at the Tomb of the Unknowns. Click here

Arlington National Cemetery

Robert Dodge/Getty Images ©

Washington, DC Top Sights

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture

It's part portrait gallery, part who's who of big-name US artists a la Edward Hopper, Andy Warhol and Georgia O'Keeffe, all hanging in a gorgeous landmark building. Click here

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture

Tom Williams/Getty Images ©

l

Washington, DC

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Washington, DC

After checking off DC's top sights, seek out the bohemian jazz quarters, curio-filled markets, sweet patisseries and arty shops that make up Washington for the locals. Count on rambling bookstores and waterfront parks making appearances.

A Capital Day on Capitol Hill

A Markets

A Neighborhood bars

Browse Eastern Market's food stalls and the Flea Market's bric-a-brac. The local dive bar serves breakfast all day, while the creaky-floored bookstore has mountains of tomes to flip through. For dinner, everyone lines up for small plates and cocktails.

Exploring Jazzy U Street & Shaw

A Music venues

A Soul food

The neighborhood where Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald used to hit their notes is one of DC's most happening places. It's prime for poetry cafes, timeless jazz clubs and humble restaurants where locals gossip over sweet iced tea.

Ben’s Chili Bowl

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

A Night Out in Dupont Circle

A 24-hour bookstore

A Vodka and cocktail bars

Join DC's young professionals as they congregate after dark. The neighborhood's welcoming bars, vintage chic cafes and arty shops stay open late so locals can hobnob over board games, gelato, caviar and a cocktail or three.

Kramerbooks

Jason Colston/Getty Images ©

Strolling Genteel Georgetown

A Swanky antique shops

A Redolent bakeries

Stroll through Washington's smartest neighborhood and you'll get a taste of the high life: opulent homes, elegant antique shops and pastry-stuffed patisseries. Finish the jaunt at the waterfront park where yachtspeople pull up for an alfresco drink.

Mixing It Up in Columbia Heights

A Latino art and culture

A Hip cafes

Immigrants and hipsters share the 'hood. Visit a local pupuseria for Salvadoran snacks and peruse Mexican art exhibits. Then delve into a slew of wine-pouring cafes and friendly corner taverns, many with patios that are local gathering spots.

Other great places to experience the city like a local:

Maine Avenue Fish Market

Pie Sisters

HR-57

Zorba's Cafe

Dupont Circle Market

Dumbarton Oaks Park

Veranda on P

Tryst

Enid A Haupt Garden

BreadLine

R

Washington, DC

Day Planner

Short on time?

We've arranged Washington, DC's must-sees into these day-by-day itineraries to make sure you see the very best of the city in the time you have available.

Day One

M Dive right into the good stuff with the monuments at the National Mall's western end. The Lincoln Memorial is about as iconically DC as it gets. The powerful Vietnam Veterans Memorial and Martin Luther King Jr Memorial are must-sees nearby. Then comes the Washington Monument, which is pretty hard to miss, being DC’s tallest structure and all. Superb views unfurl from the top.

R Delve into the Mall's trove of museums during the afternoon. First fuel up at Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe, guaranteed to expand your palate. The National Air & Space Museum is next door with incomparably cool missiles and the Wright brothers’ original plane. Mosey across the lawn to the National Gallery of Art for Leonardo da Vinci, impressionists and other classics. Afterward, sooth tired feet with a dip in the fountain at the National Sculpture Garden.

N Spend the evening in Dupont Circle at local hot spots such as vodka-rich Russia House and open-till-the-wee-hours Kramerbooks.

Day Two

M Do the government thing this morning. Start at the Capitol and tour the statue-cluttered halls. Then walk across the street and up the grand steps to the Supreme Court; hopefully you’ll get to hear a case argument. The Library of Congress and its 500 miles of books blows minds next door.

R Spend the afternoon downtown, where sightseeing riches await. Check out the Declaration of Independence at the National Archives, and the seat where Lincoln was shot at Ford’s Theatre. The Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture hangs sublime paintings. If you still have time, the Newseum has the Unabomber’s cabin. The White House is nearby, so saunter over and snap a few photos. When hunger strikes, try Rasika or Hill Country Barbecue.

N Stroll north up 14th St NW toward Logan Circle, a bountiful food and drink zone. Buzzy Le Diplomate wafts a Parisian vibe, while Churchkey pours 550 different types of beer. Continue north and you'll come to jazzy U St and Shaw (Click here).

Day Three

M Walking around Arlington National Cemetery you can’t help but be moved, from the Tomb of the Unknowns’ dignified guards to John F Kennedy’s eternal flame. The grounds spread over 624 acres, and include the Space Shuttle Challenger and Columbia memorials among many others.

R Spend the afternoon in Georgetown. Have lunch at Martin's Tavern, where JFK proposed to Jackie. Go shopping – antiques on Book Hill or designer shopping along M St. Bakeries provide sweet sustenance along the way. Amble along the Potomac River, past outdoor cafes and boaters in Georgetown Waterfront Park. Keep following the riverside path to the Kennedy Center to watch the free 6pm show.

N Fork in to buttermilk fried chicken or pork-and-lentil stew at Founding Farmers for dinner. Then re-visit the Mall. The dramatically lit monuments glow ethereally at night, particularly the Lincoln Memorial. DC by Foot and Bike & Roll offer nighttime tours through the atmospheric scene.

Day Four

M Start at Dupont Circle (the traffic circle) and walk northwest on Massachusetts Ave gaping at the enormous mansions along Embassy Row. The Phillips Collection also spreads out in a Dupont manor; the modern paintings and sculptures provide an hour or two of groovy browsing.

R Adams Morgan sits just north of Dupont. It's Washington’s party zone, but during the day shops such as Meeps and Crooked Beat Records provide plenty to do. So do comfort-food havens such as the Diner and Tryst. Come 4pm, you’re well situated for happy hour at Millie & Al's, a classic dive bar.

N In the evening head to Columbia Heights and see what's going on along 11th St NW. In fine weather the patio benches at Wonderland Ballroom fill with locals enjoying libations. And it's pretty much the same scene up the road at wine-pouring Room 11, beer-and-pool bar Meridian Pint and Italian-tinged Maple.

Need to Know

Currency

US dollar ($)

Language

English

Visas

Visitors from Canada, the UK, Australia, New Zealand and many EU countries do not need a visa for stays under 90 days. Other visitors see http://travel.state.gov.

Money

ATMs widely available. Credit cards accepted at most hotels, restaurants and shops.

Cell Phones

Europe and Asia's GSM 900/1800 standard does not work in the USA. Buy a cheap local phone with a pay-as-you-go plan.

Time

Eastern Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus five hours)

Plugs & Adaptors

Plugs have two vertical pins; electrical current is 120V. European visitors will need an adaptor and maybe a transformer.

Tipping

Expected most places. Restaurant servers 15% to 20%. Bartenders 15% per round (minimum $1 per drink). Porters $2 per bag. Hotel maids $2 to $5 per night. Taxi drivers 10% to 15%.

For more information, see Survival Guide

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than $100

A Dorm bed $30–$55

A Washington Nationals ticket $15

A Metro day pass $14.50

A Lunch specials and happy-hour drinks $20–$30

Midrange $100–$350

A Hotel or B&B double room $130–$275

A Dinner in a casual restaurant $20–$40

A Theater ticket $25–$45

Top end over $350

A Luxury hotel double room $400

A Dinner at a top-end restaurant $75–$150

A Washington National Opera ticket $100–$150

Useful Websites

A Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/washington-dc) Destination information, hotel bookings, travel forum and photos.

A Destination DC (www.washington.org) Official tourism site.

A Cultural Tourism DC (www.culturaltourismdc.org) Neighborhood events and tours.

A DCist (www.dcist.com) Hip DC blog.

Advance Planning

A Three months before Book your hotel, request a White House tour.

A One month before Reserve tickets online for the National Archives, Holocaust Memorial Museum, Washington Monument, Ford’s Theatre and Capitol tour.

A Two weeks before Reserve ahead at your must-eat restaurants.

A One week before Check www.washingtoncitypaper.com to see what’s on and make bookings.

2Arriving in Washington, DC

Dulles International Airport (IAD; www.metwashairports.com) is in the Virginia suburbs, 26 miles west of downtown. Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA; GOOGLE MAP ; www.metwashairports.com) is 4.5 miles south of downtown in Arlington, VA. Dulles is bigger, but Reagan is more convenient, as it's closer and has a Metro stop.

3Getting Around

The public-transportation system is a mix of Metro trains and bus. Visitors will find the Metro the most useful option. Buy a rechargeable SmarTrip card at any Metro station. You must use the card to enter and exit station turnstiles.

m Metro

DC's subway system is fast and frequent (except during weekend track maintenance) and will get you to most sights. It operates between 5am and midnight, later on weekends. Fares range from $1.75 to $5.90 depending on the distance traveled. A day pass costs $14.50.

J Bus

DC Circulator buses run along handy routes including Union Station to/from Georgetown and Dupont Circle to/from Georgetown. One-way fare costs $1.

H Bicycle

Lots of locals cycle to get around. Capital Bikeshare stations are ubiquitous; a day pass costs $7. Bike rentals for longer rides start at $16 per two hours.

K Taxi

Taxis prowl the District, but there never seems to be one when you need it. Fares are $2.16 per mile; the meter starts around $3.25. The rideshare company Uber is well-used in the District.

Washington, DC Neighborhoods

National Mall

White House Area & Foggy Bottom

Georgetown

Capitol Hill

Downtown & Penn Quarter

Dupont Circle

Adams Morgan

National Mall

Folks often call the Mall 'America's Front Yard.' It is indeed a lawn, unfurling 2 miles of scrubby green grass from the Capitol west to the Lincoln Memorial. It's also America's great public space, where citizens come to protest to their government, go for scenic runs, and connect with the nation's most-cherished ideals wrought large in monuments and museums.

National Mall

Chris Minerva/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Hit the west side of the Mall first and visit the monuments. It makes sense to swoop through in a counterclockwise direction: start at the powerful Vietnam Veterans Memorial, then walk over to the awe-inspiring Lincoln Memorial, then on to the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial and WWII Memorial. Finish at the sky-high Washington Monument; hopefully you prebooked your tickets.

R Have lunch at the Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe, then go next door to the whopping National Air & Space Museum. Art buffs should allot a few hours for the National Gallery of Art, while families can immerse in the tarantula-and-diamond-stuffed National Museum of Natural History and pop-culture-rich National Museum of American History. For something quieter try the Freer-Sackler Museums of Asian Art.

N Sup at the Pavilion Cafe amid whimsical sculptures. Join a walking tour with DC by Foot and see the illuminated monuments at night.

For a local’s day in Enid A Haupt Garden, see (Click here).

1  Top Sights

Lincoln Memorial

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Washington Monument

National Air & Space Museum

x  Best of Washington, DC

For Free

DC by Foot

Screen on the Green

Art & Architecture

National Gallery of Art

Freer-Sackler Museums of Asian Art

National Museum of the American Indian

Live Music

Jazz in the Garden

Getting There

m Metro Smithsonian (Blue and Orange Lines) and L’Enfant Plaza (Blue, Orange, Green and Yellow Lines) for most sights; Foggy Bottom-GWU for the Lincoln and Vietnam Memorials (though they’re about a mile from the station).

1

Top Sights

Lincoln Memorial

In a city of icons, the monument for the nation's 16th president stands out in the crowd. Maybe it’s the classicism evoked by the Greek-temple design, or the stony dignity of Lincoln’s gaze, or reading about 'the new birth of freedom' in the Gettysburg Address chiseled beside him. Whatever the lure, a visit here while looking out over the Reflecting Pool is a defining DC moment.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.nps.gov/linc; 2 Lincoln Memorial Circle NW; h24hr; gCirculator, mFoggy Bottom-GWU

Lincoln Memorial

Scott Smith/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Visit the memorial at night. It's well lit and particularly atmospheric once the sun sets (plus there’s less crowd jostling).

A For a dramatic view of the Reflecting Pool and Washington Monument, stand on Martin Luther King Jr's step and ready your camera.

A Learn more about the memorial via a DIY cell-phone tour (202-747-3420). Rangers also give talks on-site.

5 Take a Break

Two snack kiosks flank the memorial and offer cold drinks, sandwiches and ice cream. For more filling fare, you'll have to trek off the Mall. Founding Farmers cooks rustic, sustainable dishes in the White House area, a 1.25-mile walk northeast.

Don't Miss

The Columns

Plans for a monument to Lincoln began in 1867 – two years after his assassination – but construction didn’t begin until 1914. Henry Bacon designed the memorial to resemble a Doric temple, with 36 columns to represent the 36 states in Lincoln’s union.

The Statue & Words

Carvers used 28 blocks of marble to fashion the seated figure. Lincoln’s face and hands are particularly realistic, since they are based on castings done when he was president. The words of his Gettysburg Address and Second Inaugural speech flank the statue on the north and south walls, along with murals depicting his principles. Look for symbolic images of freedom, liberty and unity.

MLK Marker

From the get-go, the Lincoln Memorial became a symbol of the Civil Rights movement. Most famously, Martin Luther King Jr gave his ‘I Have a Dream’ speech here in 1963. An engraving of King’s words marks the spot where he stood. It’s on the landing 18 steps from the top, and is usually where everyone is gathered snapping photos.

Reflecting Pool

Henry Bacon also conceived the iconic Reflecting Pool, modeling it after the canals at Versailles and Fontainebleau. The 0.3-mile-long pond holds 6.75 million gallons of water that circulate in from the nearby Tidal Basin. The site is all gussied up after a $34 million renovation completed in 2012.

1

Top Sights

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

The opposite of DC’s white, gleaming marble, the black, low-lying Vietnam memorial cuts into the earth, just as the Vietnam War cut into the national psyche. The monument shows the names of the war’s 58,272 American casualties – listed in the order they died – along a V-shaped granite wall. It’s a subtle but profound monument, where visitors leave poignant mementos, such as photos of babies and notes (‘I wish you could have met him, Dad’).

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.nps.gov/vive; 5 Henry Bacon Dr NW; h24hr; gCirculator, mFoggy Bottom-GWU

The Three Soldiers sculpture by Frederick Hart reflected in the wall of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Education Images/UIG/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Paper indices at the memorial's west end let you look up individual names and get their panel location on the wall.

A It's OK to leave a memento (or peek at mementos that other visitors have left). Rangers collect the items daily; the National Park Service then catalogs and warehouses them.

A A DIY cell-phone tour is available by calling 202-595-0093.

5 Take a Break

There's a snack kiosk a short distance east of the wall, at the foot of the Lincoln Memorial. To fork into modern, locally sourced dishes head to Founding Farmers; it's a mile north via 21st St NW in the White House area.

Don't Miss

The Reflective Design

Maya Lin, a 21-year-old Yale architecture student, designed the memorial following a nationwide competition in 1981. The 'V' is comprised of two walls of polished granite that meet in the center at a 10ft peak, then taper to a height of 8in. The mirrorlike surface lets visitors see their own reflection among the names of the dead, bringing past and present together.

Order of Names

The wall lists soldiers’ names chronologically according to the date they died. The list starts at the monument's vertex on panel 1E on July 8, 1959. It moves day by day to the end of the eastern wall at panel 70E, then starts again at panel 70W at the western wall’s end. It returns to the vertex on May 15, 1975, where the war’s beginning and end meet in symbolic closure.

Diamonds & Plus Signs

A diamond next to the name indicates ‘killed, body recovered.’ A plus sign indicates ‘missing and unaccounted for.’ There are approximately 1200 of the latter. If a soldier returns alive, a circle is inscribed around the plus sign. To date, no circles appear.

Nearby Sculpture

In 1984 opponents of Maya Lin’s design insisted that a more traditional sculpture be added to the monument. The Three Soldiers depicts three servicemen – one white, one African American and one Latino – who seem to be gazing upon the nearby sea of names. The tree-ringed Women in Vietnam Memorial is also nearby.

1

Top Sights

Washington Monument

Rising up on the Mall like an exclamation point, the 555ft obelisk embodies the awe and respect the nation felt for George Washington, the USA's first president and founding father. The monument is DC’s loftiest structure, and by federal law no local building can reach above it. A 70-second elevator ride whisks you to the observation deck at the top for the city's best views. Recent renovations have freshened the monument (and made it earthquake proof).

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.nps.gov/wamo; 2 15th St NW; h9am-5pm, to 10pm Jun-Aug; gCirculator, mSmithsonian

Washington Monument

Hisham Ibrahim/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Same-day tickets for a timed entrance are available at the kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; 15th St, btwn Madison Dr NW & Jefferson Dr SW; hfrom 8:30am) by the monument. Make sure you arrive early as tickets are limited.

A During peak season it's a good idea to reserve tickets in advance (%877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; fee per ticket $1.50) by phone or online, and pick them up at the kiosk’s will-call window.

A Catch the Navy and Air Force bands playing at 8pm on Tuesday and Wednesday, respectively, in the open-air Sylvan Theater near the monument's base (summer only).

5 Take a Break

Eat a toasted sandwich while surrounded by avant-garde sculptures at the Pavilion Cafe, or head into the National Gallery of Art's Cascade Cafe for a larger spread.

Don't Miss

Mismatched Marble

Construction began in 1848, but a lack of funds during the Civil War grounded the monument at 156ft. By the time work began again in 1876, the quarry that provided the original marble had dried up. Contractors had to go elsewhere for the rest of the rock. Look closely for the delineation in color where the old and new marble meet about a third of the way up (the bottom is a bit lighter).

Pyramid Topper

In December 1884 workers heaved a 3300lb marble capstone on the monument and topped it off with a 9in pyramid of cast aluminum. At the time, aluminum was rare and expensive. Before the shiny novelty went to Washington, the designers displayed the pyramid in the window of Tiffany's in New York City.

Observation Deck & Memorial Stones

Inside the monument, an elevator takes you to the sky-high observation deck that provides grand city vistas. On the way back down, the elevator slows so you can glimpse some of the 195 memorial stones that decorate the shaft’s interior. Various states, cities and patriotic societies purchased them as part of the monument's initial construction. There's even one from the pope.

Exhibits

The Washington Monument was the world's tallest structure until the Eiffel Tower surpassed it. In August 2011 an earthquake rattled the monument causing structural damage. It took 33 months and $15 million to fix. Exhibits inside explain it all.

1

Top Sights

National Air & Space Museum

The Air and Space Museum is one of the Smithsonian’s biggest crowd-pullers, drawing some seven million visitors a year. Families flock in for the mind-blowing array of rockets, jets and other contraptions – and all of it is as rousing for adults as kids. Name the historic aircraft or spacecraft – the Wright brothers' flyer, Lindbergh’s Spirit of St Louis, Skylab – and it's here amid the two-floor spread of flying awesomeness.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%202-633-1000; www.airandspace.si.edu; cnr 6th St & Independence Ave SW; h10am-5:30pm, to 7:30pm mid-Mar–early Sep; Wc; gCirculator, mL'Enfant Plaza

National Air & Space Museum

Witold Skrypczak/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A To get your bearings in the vast museum remember this: rockets and space-flight exhibits fill the east side. Airplanes and aviation are on the west side.

A Stop by the information desk and pick up a map. It will be especially useful as exhibits move around during building renovations.

A Free 90-minute tours depart from the information desk daily at 10:30am and 1pm.

5 Take a Break

McDonald’s, Donato’s Pizza and Boston Market are the kid-frenzied options inside the museum, all clumped together on the 1st floor's west end. For something more offbeat, try the Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe in the American Indian Museum next door.

Don't Miss

Milestones of Flight Hall

The museum's entrance hall makes a grand impression. Walk in the Mall-side entrance and touch the moon (or at least a lunar rock that you're invited to lay fingers on). Chuck Yeager’s sound-barrier-breaking Bell X-1 and Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic-crossing Spirit of St Louis hang from the ceiling. Nuclear missiles and rockets rise up from the floor.

Milestones Renovation

Alas, the Milestones hall is undergoing renovation until 2016. While it will remain open during the construction, various exhibits will be closed. The good news is that the hall will emerge bigger and better than ever, with upgraded touch-screen technology and – wait for it – a display featuring the USS Enterprise from Star Trek.

1903 Wright Flyer

The Wright brothers get their own gallery, and its centerpiece is the 1903 biplane they built and flew at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina in 1903. That's right: the world's first airplane is here. Also on display is a bicycle the brothers designed (they started with two-wheelers before moving on to flying machines) and, oddly, Orville's mandolin.

Amelia Earhart's Plane

Amelia Earhart's natty red Lockheed 5B Vega shines in the Pioneers of Flight gallery. She dubbed it her 'Little Red Bus' and in 1932 flew it solo across the Atlantic Ocean – a first for a woman. A few months later she flew it nonstop across the US, a 19-hour journey from Los Angeles to Newark, NJ, for another female first.

Apollo Lunar Module

It looks like it's made of tinfoil, but the Apollo Lunar Module was designed to carry astronauts to the moon. While the unit on display only flew in unmanned test missions, it's a replica of the module that Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped out of as the first men on the moon.

Skylab Orbital Workshop

Skylab was America's first space station, launched in 1973. The orbital workshop was its largest component, and was where the astronauts lived. Crews of three stayed aboard for up to three months. Walk through to see the shower, exercise bicycle and other cramped quarters. It definitely isn't a lifestyle for claustrophobes.

How Things Fly Gallery

On the 1st floor near the information desk, How Things Fly whooshes with interactive gadgets for young ones. Kids can find out their weight on the moon, see a wind tunnel in action and make awesome paper airplanes. This gallery also is getting a makeover and may close sporadically until 2016.

Flight Simulators

Thrill seekers should head to gallery 103 on the 1st floor where the Flight Simulator Zone offers two experiences. One is a badass aerial-combat trip, where participants control the action. The other is a more passive ‘ride’ aboard an F-18 or cosmic coaster. The simulators cost $7 to $8 per person.

IMAX Theater & Planetarium

The Lockheed Martin IMAX Theater screens a rotating list of films throughout the day. Shows at the Albert Einstein Planetarium send viewers hurtling through space on tours of the universe. Buy your tickets as soon as you arrive, or on the museum website before you visit. Tickets cost $9; there's a surcharge for online orders.

Museum Annex

Only a fraction of the museum's planes and spacecraft fit into the building on the Mall. The leftovers fill two enormous hangars at the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center near Dulles Airport. Highlights include the Enola Gay (the B-29 that dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima) and Space Shuttle Discovery. The annex is 2.5 miles (about a $12 taxi ride) from Dulles.

Understand

Who was James Smithson?

The Big Gift

Englishman James Smithson never set foot in the USA, let alone Washington, DC. Yet in 1826 he willed $508,318 to America to create an ‘establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge.’ The US government promptly ignored the amazing gift.

‘Every whippersnapper vagabond…might think it proper to have his name distinguished in the same way,’ grumbled Senator William Preston, while Senator John C Calhoun argued it was ‘beneath American dignity to accept presents from anyone.’ Anti-British sentiment informed some of this debate: the 1814 British torching of Washington remained fresh in many American minds. Finally, in 1846, Congress accepted the money and began constructing the Smithsonian Institution.

Mysterious Motive

So who was Smithson? A mineralogist by trade and shrewd investor by evidence (his donation was a fortune for its time), he was well educated and wealthy by any measure. But his motivations for bequeathing so much money to the USA, as opposed to his native Britain, remain a mystery. Some say he was an antimonarchist who took a particular shine to the American Republic. He may have just loved learning; to quote Smithson, ‘Every man is a valuable member of society who by his observations, researches, and experiments procures knowledge for men.’ Today Smithson is entombed in the Smithsonian Castle on the Mall. His coffin incorrectly states he died at 75; he was 64.

The Smithsonian Today

His gift morphed into a vast vault of treasures. The Smithsonian holds approximately 140 million artworks, scientific specimens, artifacts and other objects, of which only 1% are on display at any given time. The collection sprawls across 19 museums – 10 on the Mall, and most of the others quite nearby. The Smithsonian also operates the National Zoo. There is no entry fee for any of the venues. They're all free, always.

The institution needs (and is receiving) some expensive upkeep, and it continues to expand. It has been suggested the museums start charging for admission to help with such costs, but the powers that be won’t hear of it. They argue fees would hinder Smithson’s original goal to spread knowledge.

1 Top Sights

Lincoln Memorial  A3

Vietnam Veterans Memorial  B3

Washington Monument  D3

National Air & Space Museum  G4

1 Sights

1Martin Luther King Jr Memorial  B4

2National Gallery of Art  G3

3National Sculpture Garden  F3

4National Museum of American History  E3

5National Museum of Natural History  F3

6Freer-Sackler Museums of Asian Art  E4

7National WWII Memorial  C3

8National Museum of the American Indian  G4

9Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial  B4

10DC by Foot  D3

5 Eating

Mitsitam Native Foods Cafe  G4

11Pavilion Cafe  F3

12Cascade Cafe  G3

3 Entertainment

13Jazz in the Garden  F3

14Screen on the Green  F3

15Discovery Theater  E3

Sights

1Martin Luther King Jr MemorialMONUMENT

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Opened in 2011, this is the Mall’s first memorial dedicated to a nonpresident, as well as to an African American. Sculptor Lei Yixin carved the piece. Besides Dr King’s image, known as the Stone of Hope, there are two blocks behind him that represent the Mountain of Despair. A wall inscribed with King’s stirring quotes flanks the statues.

(www.nps.gov/mlkm; 1850 W Basin Dr SW; h24hr; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1National Gallery of ArtMUSEUM

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The staggering collection spans the Middle Ages to the present. The neoclassical west building showcases European art through the 1800s; highlights include the western hemisphere's only da Vinci painting (gallery 6) and impressionist works (galleries 80 to 93). The IM Pei–designed east building displays modern art; it's closed until 2016 for renovations and expansion. A trippy underground walkway connects the two wings.

(%202-737-4215; www.nga.gov; Constitution Ave NW, btwn 3rd & 7th Sts; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; W; gCirculator, mArchives)

1National Sculpture GardenGARDENS

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The National Gallery of Art’s 6-acre garden is studded with whimsical sculptures such as Roy Lichtenstein’s House, a giant Claes Oldenburg typewriter eraser and Louise Bourgeois’ leggy Spider. They are scattered around a fountain – a great place to dip your feet in summer. From November to March the fountain becomes a festive ice rink (adult/child $8/7, skate rental $3).

(cnr Constitution Ave NW & 7th St NW; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-9:30pm Fri, 11am-7pm Sun; gCirculator, mArchives)

1National Museum of American HistoryMUSEUM

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The museum collects all kinds of artifacts of the American experience. The flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to pen The Star-Spangled Banner is here, as are Julia Child's kitchen, Dorothy’s ruby slippers and the original Kermit puppet. In 2015 the African American History Gallery will spin off into the National Museum of African American History and Culture in a new building next door.

(www.americanhistory.si.edu; cnr 14th St & Constitution Ave NW; h10am-5:30pm, to 7:30pm Jun-Aug; Wc; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1National Museum of Natural HistoryMUSEUM

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Wave to Henry, the elephant who guards the rotunda, then zip to the 2nd floor’s Hope Diamond. The 45.52-carat bauble has cursed its owners, including Marie Antoinette, or so the story goes. The beloved dinosaur hall is under renovation until 2019, but the giant squid (1st floor, Ocean Hall) and tarantula feedings (2nd floor, Insect Zoo) fill in the thrills at this kid-packed venue.

(www.mnh.si.edu; cnr 10th St & Constitution Ave NW; h10am-5:30pm, to 7:30pm Jun-Aug; c; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1Freer-Sackler Museums of Asian ArtMUSEUM

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This is a lovely spot in which to while away a Washington afternoon. Japanese silk scrolls, smiling Buddhas, rare Islamic manuscripts and Chinese jades spread through cool, quiet galleries. The Freer and Sackler are actually separate venues, connected by an underground tunnel. The Sackler focuses more on changing exhibits, while the Freer, rather incongruously, also houses works by American painter James Whistler. Don't miss the Peacock Room.

(www.asia.si.edu; cnr Independence Ave & 12th St SW; h10am-5:30pm; W; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1National WWII MemorialMONUMENT

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Dedicated in 2004, the WWII memorial honors the 400,000 Americans who died in the conflict, along with the 16 million US soldiers who served between 1941 and 1945. The plaza's dual arches symbolize victory in the Atlantic and Pacific theaters. The 56 surrounding pillars represent each US state and territory. Stirring quotes speckle the monument. You'll often see groups of veterans paying their respects here.

(www.nps.gov/wwii; 17th St; h24hr; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1National Museum of the American IndianMUSEUM

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Ensconced in honey-colored, undulating limestone, this museum makes a striking architectural impression. Inside it offers cultural artifacts, costumes, video and audio recordings related to the indigenous people of the Americas. Exhibits are largely organized and presented by individual tribes, which provides an intimate, if sometimes disjointed, overall narrative. The 'Our Universes' gallery (on Level 4) about Native American beliefs and creation stories is intriguing.

(www.nmai.si.edu; cnr 4th St & Independence Ave SW; h10am-5:30pm; Wc; gCirculator, mL’Enfant Plaza)

1Franklin Delano Roosevelt MemorialMONUMENT

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The 7.5-acre memorial pays tribute to the longest-serving president in US history and the era he governed. Visitors are taken through four red-granite ‘rooms’ that narrate FDR’s time in office, from the Depression to the New Deal to WWII. The story is told through statuary and inscriptions, punctuated with fountains and peaceful alcoves. It's especially pretty at night.

(www.nps.gov/frde; 400 W Basin Dr SW; h24hr; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

1DC by FootWALKING TOUR

Guides for this pay-what-you-want walking tour offer engaging stories and historical details during a two-hour stroll around the Mall's monuments. Tours depart daily from the southwest corner of 15th St and Constitution Ave NW. Times vary and reservations are required. Most takers pay around $10 per person. The company offers loads of other jaunts as well, such as Ghosts of Georgetown or U St food.

(www.dcbyfoot.com)

1Old Town Trolley ToursBUS TOUR

This open-sided bus offers hop-on, hop-off transport around the Mall's sights (and beyond to Arlington Cemetery, Union Station and the White House). It's useful if you're not keen on walking miles. Drivers narrate along the way. Booking online saves 10%.

(%888-910-8687; www.trolleytours.com; adult/child $39/29)

Smithsonian Castle and Enid A Haupt Garden

Danita Delimont/Getty Images ©

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Local Life

Enid A Haupt Garden

A few tourists find the green space hiding behind the Smithsonian Castle, but mostly it's workers escaping the office who hang out in the Enid A Haupt Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gardens.si.edu; W; gCirculator, mSmithsonian). Shaded benches dot the grounds amid Asian moon gates and Moorish-style geometric flower beds. The peaceful retreat beckons just steps from the Mall, and as a bonus there is free wi-fi.

Understand

Mall of Justice

The Mall has long provided a forum for people to make their grievances heard by the government. Suffragists, veterans, peaceniks, civil-rights activists, sharecroppers and million-mom marchers, among many other groups, have all staged political rallies on the Mall over the years.

Key Events in History

A Bonus Army (1932) – WWI veterans, left unemployed by the Great Depression, petitioned the government for an early payment of promised bonuses for their wartime service. As many as 10,000 veterans settled in for an extended protest, pitching tents on the Mall and the Capitol lawn. President Hoover dispatched Douglas MacArthur to evict the 'Bonus Army'; the eviction's violence helped cement Hoover's reputation as an uncaring president.

A 'I Have a Dream' (1963) – At the zenith of the Civil Rights movement, Reverend Martin Luther King's stirring speech, delivered from the steps of the Lincoln Memorial to 200,000 supporters, remains a high point in the struggle for racial equality.

A Antiwar Protests (1971) – In April 1971, an estimated 500,000 Vietnam veterans and students gathered on the Mall to oppose continued hostilities. Several thousand arrests were made.

A AIDS Memorial Quilt (1996) – Gay and lesbian activists drew more than 300,000 supporters in a show of solidarity for equal rights under the law and to display the ever-growing AIDS quilt, which covered the eastern flank of the Mall from the Capitol to the Washington Monument.

A Million-Mom March (2000) – A half-million people convened on the Mall on Mother's Day to draw attention to handgun violence and to demand that Congress pass stricter gun-ownership laws.

A Bring Them Home Now Tour (2005) – Led by families who lost loved ones in the war, this gathering of more than 100,000 protesters demanded the withdrawal of American soldiers from Iraq.

A Barack Obama Inaugurations (2009 and 2013) – While not a protest, Obama's first swearing in as president is believed to be the largest public gathering in DC history. Roughly 1.8 million people packed the Mall for the occasion. His second inauguration drew around one million people.

Eating

5Mitsitam Native Foods CafeNATIVE AMERICAN $$

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By far the most unique food on the Mall, the Mitsitam introduces visitors to the Native American cuisine of five different regions, including the northwest coast (such as cedar-planked wild salmon), Great Plains (buffalo chili) and northern woodlands (maple-brined turkey and wild rice). Menus rotate seasonally, and mixed among the tourists are scads of local office workers seeking a quality lunch.

(www.mitsitamcafe.com; cnr 4th St & Independence Ave SW, National Museum of the American Indian; mains $10-18; h11am-5pm; gCirculator, mL’Enfant Plaza)

5Pavilion CafeCAFE $

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Set amid the rambling sylvan serenity of the National Sculpture Garden, this pizza and panini place bustles throughout the seasons. Eat in the glass-walled interior or at the umbrella-shaded outdoor tables. Even if you're not ravenous, the cafe makes a sweet pit stop for a French pastry and glass of wine or beer; a reward after all the Mall walking.

(www.pavilioncafe.com; cnr Constitution Ave & 7th St NW; mains $9-12; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-9:30pm Fri, 11am-7pm Sun; gCirculator, mArchives)

Pavilion Cafe

Jason Colston/Getty Images ©

5Cascade CafeCAFE $

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Located at the juncture of the National Gallery's two wings, the Cascade offers views of just that: a shimmering, IM Pei–designed artificial waterfall. The cafeteria-style eatery is divided into different stations where you pick up a tray and choose among pizza, pasta, sandwiches, barbecue and salads. The adjoining espresso bar scoops 19 flavors of gelato.

(National Gallery of Art, East Bldg; mains $7-14; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; c; gCirculator, mArchives)

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Top Tip

Bring a Picnic

Aside from a couple of notable museum cafes and scattered snack vendors, it's a food desert on the Mall. It's wise to bring your own nibbles. One strategy: hit Eastern Market first to assemble a picnic for later in the day. It's a short hop east on the Metro's Blue and Orange Lines in the Capitol Hill neighborhood.

Entertainment

3Jazz in the GardenLIVE MUSIC

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Lots of locals show up for these outdoor jazz, blues and world-music concerts at the National Sculpture Garden. Bring a blanket and picnic fare, and supplement with beverages from the Pavilion Cafe.

(www.pavilioncafe.com/jazz.html; cnr Constitution Ave & 7th St NW; h5-8:30pm Fri late May-early Sep; gCirculator, mArchives)

3Screen on the GreenCINEMA

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Classic movies such as One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest and Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory flicker on a large outdoor screen set up on the Mall. Bring a blanket, picnic fixings and plenty of bug spray. Films start at sunset.

(www.friendsofscreenonthegreen.org; Mall btwn 7th & 12th Sts NW; h8pm Mon mid-Jul–mid-Aug; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

3Discovery TheaterTHEATER

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In the basement of the Ripley Center, Discovery stages delightful puppet shows and other productions for children.

(www.discoverytheater.org; 1100 Jefferson Dr SW; tickets $6-12; c; gCirculator, mSmithsonian)

White House Area & Foggy Bottom

The president lives at the center of the 'hood. The State Department, World Bank and other weighty institutions hover nearby in Foggy Bottom. It's mostly a business district by day, and not terribly active by night with the exception of the behemoth Kennedy Center for performing arts. Fine dining restaurants and manhattan-stirring politician bars are scattered throughout.

White House Area & Foggy Botton

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Begin with the big one: the White House. Even if you don't get in for a public tour you can catch a glimpse of the house across the North or South Lawn and check out presidential exhibits in the visitor center. Mosey around the monument-studded Ellipse.

R Old Ebbitt Grill has been around forever serving burgers, seafood and booze; keep an eye out for political bigwigs during lunch. See if the Corcoran Gallery of Art or Renwick Gallery are open. Go for drinks at Round Robin or Off the Record, a couple of age-old bars frequented by politicos who like their martinis and Scotch.

N Have dinner at rustic-cool Founding Farmers. Early birds can catch the free daily 6pm performance at the Kennedy Center; otherwise get tickets for the opera or symphony later in the evening. Incidentally, the big building next door to the Kennedy is the Watergate Complex. Rock and rollers can see what's on at the Hamilton.

1  Top Sights

White House

x  Best of Washington, DC

History & Politics

Round Robin

Off the Record

Old Ebbitt Grill

Watergate Complex

Theater & Performing Arts

Kennedy Center

Shopping

White House Gifts

Eating

Georgia Brown's

Live Music

Hamilton

Getting There

m Metro Orange or Blue Line to Federal Triangle or McPherson Sq for the White House; Farragut West for the Corcoran, Renwick and other museums; and Foggy Bottom-GWU for the Kennedy Center.

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Top Sights

White House

The most striking thing about the White House is how much it feels like a house. A 55,000-sq-ft house, but still a real one where a family lives. If you're lucky enough to get inside on a public tour, you'll see several rooms in the main residence, each rich in presidential lore: this is where Thomas Jefferson ate and this is where Abe Lincoln's coffin stood… The walk-through is self-guided and takes about half an hour.

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%tours 202-456-7041; www.whitehouse.gov; htours 7:30-11:30am Tue-Thu, to 1:30pm Fri & Sat; mFederal Triangle, McPherson Sq, Metro Center

White House

CE Seo/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Tours have to be arranged in advance. Americans must apply via one of their state's members of Congress, and non-Americans must apply through either the US consulate in their home country or their country's consulate in DC.

A Applications are taken from 21 days to six months in advance; three months ahead is the recommended sweet spot.

A If you don't get in on a tour, make do at the White House visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.whitehouse.gov; cnr 15th & E Sts NW; h7:30am-4pm). It's not the real deal, but hey, it has displays on presidential pets and Oval Office rug design.

5 Take a Break

Go where the political players go: Old Ebbitt Grill for burgers, oysters and a nice cabernet sauvignon; or Round Robin for a mint julep or single-malt Scotch.

Don't Miss

Library

Residence, Ground Floor

The tour starts at the visitor entrance by the White House's southeast gate. From there you pass by several roped-off rooms on the ground floor that you can peek into, such as the Library. Scan the shelves of history, fiction and biography, and check out that chandelier. It belonged to the family of James Fenimore Cooper (author of Last of the Mohicans, 1826).

Vermeil Room & China Room

Residence, Ground Floor

These two rooms are across from the Library. The Vermeil Room contains gilded silver objects dating back as far as the 1700s, as well as portraits of recent first ladies. The China Room displays – yes – pieces of presidential china and glassware. Most administrations are represented in the cases. The collection is arranged chronologically, beginning to the right of the fireplace.

East Room

Residence, State Floor

Next you go up a flight of stairs to the State Floor and continue into the East Room. Admire the White House's largest room, used for ceremonies and press conferences. Lincoln, Kennedy and five other presidents have lain in state here. Note how gilded eagles hold up the piano.

Green Room

Residence, State Floor

Think about Thomas Jefferson carving into a round of beef or cutlet of mutton. The Green Room is where it happened, as this was his dining room. It's now used as a parlor for small receptions. Green silk covers the walls. Lincoln's third son Willie was embalmed here after he died of typhoid. Eleanor Roosevelt entertained Amelia Earhart here when the aviatrix visited.

Understand

History of the White House

The President's Palace, as it was once known, was built between 1792 and 1800. Legend has it that after the British burned the building in the War of 1812, the house was restored and painted white to cover the smoke marks, and people began to call it the White House. That's not true – it had been white almost from the get-go – but it makes a nice story.

Personal Touches

Presidents have customized the property over time. Franklin Roosevelt added a pool; Truman gutted the whole place (and simply discarded many of its historical features – today’s rooms are replicas); Jacqueline Kennedy brought back antique furnishings and historic details; Nixon added a bowling alley; Carter installed solar roof panels, which Reagan then removed; Clinton added a jogging track; and George W Bush included a T-ball field.

Views for Photos

Photography is forbidden inside the White House, so you'll have to snap pictures from outside. Cars aren't allowed to pass the building on Pennsylvania Ave, clearing the area for posing school groups and round-the-clock peace activists. You can get good photos across the North Lawn from here. Or move to E St NW and take pictures across the South Lawn. Recognize the view? It's commonly used as the backdrop to TV news reports.

Blue Room

Residence, State Floor

Pretend the president is receiving you here, as he does other guests. Fifth president James Monroe bought the gilded French Empire decor. Eighth president Martin Van Buren painted the room blue. The White House Christmas tree lights things up when the holiday season comes around.

Red Room

Residence, State Floor

It's red all right, thanks to the burgundy silk velvet that coats the walls. Loved by both John Adams, who used it as a breakfast room, and various first ladies, who've used it for small receptions, the chamber sees lots of action. The Madisons, Lincolns, Grants and Kennedys all used it as a music room. The music stand by the fireplace and French musical clock on the mantel hark back to those times.

Red Room

Barry Winiker/Getty Images ©

State Dining Room

Residence, State Floor

Imagine inviting over 130 of your closest kings, prime ministers and movie stars for a little poached lobster. The quote on the fireplace mantel is from a letter John Adams wrote in 1800: 'I pray heaven to bestow the best of blessings on this house and all that shall hereafter inhabit it. May none but honest and wise men ever rule under this roof.' The State Dining Room is the last one on the official tour.

Lincoln Bedroom

Residence, 2nd Floor

The White House's 2nd and 3rd floors, as well as the east and west wings, are off-limits. That means you won't get to see the Lincoln Bedroom, one of the most famous chambers. It was formerly Abe's office, where he signed the Emancipation Proclamation. His Gettysburg Address draft sits on the desk. It's said his ghost roams from the room.

Oval Office

West Wing, 1st Floor

This is another renowned room that you can't go into. But suppose you could. You'd see the president's official workspace. Each president changes the Oval Office to suit his taste, even designing his own carpet.

1 Top Sights

White House  F3

1 Sights

1Corcoran Gallery of Art  E4

2Renwick Gallery  E3

3Ellipse  F5

4Watergate Complex  A3

5Daughters of the American Revolution  E5

5 Eating

6Founding Farmers  D3

7Old Ebbitt Grill  G3

8G Street Food  G1

9Georgia Brown's  G2

10Equinox  E2

11Bombay Club  F2

6 Drinking

12Round Robin  G4

13Off the Record  F2

3 Entertainment

14Kennedy Center  A4

15Hamilton  G3

7 Shopping

16White House Gifts  G3

17W Curtis Draper Tobacconist  G3

Sights

1Corcoran Gallery of ArtMUSEUM

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DC's oldest art museum has always been terrific, but it had a tough time standing up to the free, federal competition around the block. In mid-2014 it gave up and let the National Gallery of Art take possession. The Corcoran's historic beaux-arts building will close for renovations into 2015 (at least). It will then reopen as a showcase for modern and contemporary works from the merged collection.

(%202-639-1704; www.corcoran.org; 500 17th St NW; mFarragut West)

1Renwick GalleryMUSEUM

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Part of the Smithsonian diaspora, the Renwick Gallery is set in a stately 1859 mansion and exhibits a superb collection of American crafts and decorative-art pieces. Alas, it's closed until early 2016 for infrastructure upgrades.

(www.americanart.si.edu/renwick; 1661 Pennsylvania Ave NW; h10am-5:30pm; c; mFarragut West)

1EllipsePARK

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The expansive, oval-shaped park on the White House's south side is known as the Ellipse. It's studded with a random collection of monuments, such as the Zero Milestone (the marker for highway distances all across the country) and the Second Division Memorial. It also hosts parades and public events such as the lighting of the national Christmas tree.

(Constitution Ave, btwn 15th & 17th Sts NW; mFederal Triangle)

1Watergate ComplexBUILDING

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The riverfront Watergate complex encompasses apartments, boutiques and the office towers that made ‘Watergate’ a byword for political scandal after it broke that President Nixon’s ‘plumbers’ had bugged the headquarters of the 1972 Democratic National Committee here.

(2650 Virginia Ave NW; mFoggy Bottom-GWU)

1Daughters of the American RevolutionMUSEUM

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The DAR’s neoclassical behemoth, also known as Constitution Hall, is supposedly the largest complex of buildings in the world owned exclusively by women. They own the entire city block! Enter from D St to reach the museum, where you'll find a sweet spread of silver teapots, quilts, portrait paintings, crystal decanters and folk art.

(DAR; www.dar.org/museum; 1776 D St NW; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; mFarragut West)

Understand

Why Washington, DC?

Where North Meets South

Following the Revolutionary War, the fledgling US Congress set up a temporary capital in Philadelphia while searching for a permanent home. The Constitution, ratified in 1788, specified that a federal territory, no greater than 10 sq miles, should be established for the nation's capital. Northerners and Southerners both wanted the capital in their territory, and archrivals Thomas Jefferson (a Virginian) and Alexander Hamilton (a New Yorker) struck a compromise, agreeing to construct a new city on the border between North and South. The precise location was left up to the newly inaugurated President George Washington.

Washington chose a site some 20 miles from his own Mount Vernon estate – a place he loved and knew well. The site on the Potomac proved a strategic location for commerce and river traffic, and was politically pleasing to both Northern and Southern concerns. Maryland and Virginia agreed to cede land to the new capital.

A Territory is Born

Over drinks at a Georgetown tavern, Washington persuaded local landowners to sell their holdings to the government for $66 an acre. In 1791 surveyors mapped out a diamond-shaped territory that spanned the Potomac and Anacostia Rivers. Its four corners were at the cardinal points of the compass. Pierre Charles L'Enfant, a French officer in the Revolutionary War, sketched plans for a grand European-style capital of monumental buildings and majestic boulevards. It was named the 'Territory of Columbia' (to honor Christopher Columbus), while the federal city within would be called 'the city of Washington.'

Build & Rebuild

In 1793, construction began on the President's House and the Capitol. In 1800, John Adams became the first president to occupy the mansion, and Congress convened in Washington for the first time. The new plan was going swimmingly until the War of 1812, when the British torched the city.

DC was slow to recover. A congressional initiative to abandon the dispirited capital lost by just nine votes. It wasn't until the 1860s, when the federal government expanded to administer the Civil War and deal with its aftermath, that the city really came into its own.

Eating

5Georgia Brown’sSOUTHERN $$$

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Georgia Brown’s treats the humble ingredients of the American South (shrimp, okra, red rice, grits and sausage) with the respect great French chefs give their provincial dishes. The result is high-class cuisine from the Carolina Lowcountry served in a warm, autumnal interior. The stalwart eatery was a favorite spot for the Clintons during Bill’s presidency.

(%202-393-4499; www.gbrowns.com; 950 15th St NW; mains $20-30; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; mMcPherson Sq)

5Founding FarmersMODERN AMERICAN $$

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A frosty decor of pickled goods in jars adorns this stylish dining space. The look is a combination of rustic-cool and modern art that reflects the nature of the food: locally sourced, New American fare. Buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, and zesty pork and lentil stew are a few of the favorites that hit the wood tables. The restaurant is located in the IMF building.

(%202-822-8783; www.wearefoundingfarmers.com; 1924 Pennsylvania Ave NW; mains $14-26; h11am-10pm Mon, 11am-11pm Tue-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, 9am-10pm Sun; v; mFoggy Bottom-GWU, Farragut West)

5Old Ebbitt GrillAMERICAN $$

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The Grill has occupied its prime, by-the-White-House real estate since 1846. Political players (and lots of tourists) pack into the brass and wood interior, the sound of their conversation rumbling across a dining room where thick burgers, crab cakes and fish-and-chip type fare are rotated out almost as quickly as the clientele. Pop in for a drink and oysters during happy hour.

(%202-347-4800; www.ebbitt.com; 675 15th St NW; mains $12-22; h7:30am-1am Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun; mMetro Center)

5G Street FoodINTERNATIONAL $

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G Street lives up to its slogan of 'globally inspired street food.' Breakfast might be a Hungarian omelet (with onion and red peppers), lunch a Thai-spiced tuna salad sandwich. Dinner is the big to-do: small plates of Tuscan fried sardines or Bolivian salteñas (baked dough pockets), and large plates of Turkish lamb kebabs or Singaporean noodles. The menu sprawls; gluten-free and vegetarian options abound.

(%202-842-8484; www.gstreetfood.com; 1030 15th St NW; mains $8-12; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri; v; mMcPherson Sq)

5EquinoxMODERN AMERICAN $$$

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Equinox is as mom-and-pop as high-end White House–adjacent dining gets – Todd Gray and wife Ellen Kassoff are respectively chef and manager. The intimacy of the restaurant’s executive staff extends to the menu, which has long eschewed pricey export ingredients in favor of meat, fish, fowl and fruit sourced from the Shenandoah Valley and Chesapeake Bay.

(%202-331-8118; www.equinoxrestaurant.com; 818 Connecticut Ave NW; mains $27-36; h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10:30pm Sat, 5:30-9pm Sun; mFarragut West)

5Bombay ClubINDIAN $$

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No bad sitar music or heat-lamp-warmed buffets here; Bombay Club cooks eclectic, modern Indian fare. The duck kebab fires up the ginger-chili heat, while the fenugreek-laced lobster curry explodes with wild flavor. Sit inside where ceiling fans swirl lazily and piano tinklings fill the air, or outside on the breezy patio. Vegetarians have several options.

(%202-659-3727; www.bombayclubdc.com; 815 Connecticut Ave NW; mains $14-24; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-11pm Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-9:30pm Sun; v; mFarragut West)

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Top Tip

Food Truck Fiesta

More than 150 food trucks roll in DC, and the White House neighborhood welcomes the mother lode. They congregate at Farragut Sq, Franklin Sq, the State Department and George Washington University on weekdays between 11:30am and 1:30pm. Follow the locals' lead, and stuff your face with a delicious meal for under $15 – maybe a lobster roll poached in butter or a bowl of Lao drunken noodles. Food Truck Fiesta (www.foodtruckfiesta.com) tracks the ever-evolving fleet via Twitter.

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Local Life

BreadLine

‘Food is ammunition – don’t waste it!’ commands a WWII-era poster on the wall of BreadLine ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-822-8900; www.breadline.com; 1751 Pennsylvania Ave NW; sandwiches $8-12; h7am-5:30pm Mon-Fri; mFarragut West), a polished bakery and sandwich shop. Come here for a good, cheap lunch alongside local office workers. It'll probably be crowded, and with reason. The fresh sandwiches – stacked with, say, Italian sausage or barbecue on ciabatta bread – are gorgeous, as are the sweet treats.

Drinking

6Round RobinBAR

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Dispensing drinks since 1850, the bar at the Willard hotel is one of DC's most storied watering holes. The small, circular space is done up in Gilded Age accents, all dark wood and velvet green walls, and while it’s touristy, you’ll still see officials here likely determining your latest tax hike over a mint julep or single-malt Scotch.

(1401 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Willard InterContinental Hotel; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; mMetro Center)

6Off the RecordBAR

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Intimate red booths, a hidden basement location in one of the city’s most prestigious hotels, right across from the White House – no wonder DC's important people submerge to be seen and not heard (as the tagline goes) at Off the Record. Experienced bartenders swirl martinis and manhattans for the suit-wearing crowd. Groovy framed political caricatures hang on the walls.

(800 16th St NW, Hay-Adams Hotel; h11:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat; mMcPherson Sq)

Entertainment

3Kennedy CenterPERFORMING ARTS

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Sprawled on 17 acres along the Potomac River, the magnificent Kennedy Center hosts a staggering array of performances – more than 2000 each year among its multiple venues including the Concert Hall (home to the National Symphony) and Opera House (home to the National Opera). A free shuttle bus runs to and from the metro station every 15 minutes from 9:45am (noon on Sunday) to midnight.

(%202-467-4600; www.kennedy-center.org; 2700 F St NW; mFoggy Bottom-GWU)

Kennedy Center, by architect Edward Durell Stone

Dennis K Johnson/Getty Images ©

3HamiltonLIVE MUSIC

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Upstairs it’s a power-player restaurant, all mahogany paneling and pork chops and silver pots of coffee. Downstairs it’s a 500-person live-music club that genre-jumps from funk to blues to alt-rock guitar pickers. Bands take the stage most nights of the week.

(www.thehamiltondc.com; 600 14th St NW; mMetro Center)

y

Top Tip

Kennedy Center Freebies

Don’t have the dough for a big-ticket show? No worries. Each evening the Kennedy Center's Millennium Stage (www.kennedy-center.org/millennium; Kennedy Center; mFoggy Bottom-GWU) puts on a first-rate music or dance performance at 6pm in the Grand Foyer. The cost is absolutely nada. Check the website to see who’s playing.

Guides also offer free, 45-minute tours (h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) of the Kennedy's chandelier- and art-filled complex. They depart every 10 minutes from the tour desk on Level A and take you into all the theaters and private lounges, as well as onto the viewtastic rooftop terrace.

Shopping

7White House GiftsSOUVENIRS

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Peruse a wide selection of T-shirts, jewelry, books, Christmas ornaments and postcards, all on the theme of the big house across the way. This is the place to buy your dad some White House golf balls, or your crafty friend the Political Inaction Figures paper dolls. You can take a cheesy photo sitting behind a replica of the president's desk for $10.

(www.whitehousegifts.com; 701 15th St NW; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun; mMetro Center)

7W Curtis Draper TobacconistTOBACCO

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Follow your nose into W Curtis Draper, which has been selling cigars to politicos since 1887. Make your selection, then sit in one of the overstuffed leather chairs to puff with fellow enthusiasts young and old. Staff are friendly and helpful to stogie-smoking newbies.

(www.wcurtisdraper.com; 699 15th St NW; h9:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; mMetro Center)

Georgetown

Georgetown is DC’s most aristocratic neighborhood, home to elite university students, ivory-tower academics and diplomats. Shopaholics have their chic boutiques lined up in a row along M St, hikers and cyclists have idyllic trails, and garden lovers have evocative landscapes to stroll through. Afterward, the hushed restaurants and dark-wood pubs invite lingering into the night.

Georgetown

Glowimages/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Get your garden on in the early part of the day. Amble through the exquisite blooms and art-filled mansion at Dumbarton Oaks. Next door Dumbarton Oaks Park opens into creek-crossed woodlands and meadows. Tudor Place is another garden/mansion combination worth a look-see.

R Stop into Pie Sisters or Ching Ching Cha for an afternoon snack. Gape at the medieval-looking buildings at Georgetown University. Stare down the Exorcist stairs and be glad you're not possessed. Cycling enthusiasts can rent from Big Wheel Bikes and take a spin on local trails.

N Key Bridge Boathouse offers fun guided paddling tours at sunset. The cozy, colonial room at 1789 is tops for a romantic dinner. Venerable Blues Alley books renowned jazz acts and is a fine way to end the evening.

For a local’s day in Georgetown, see (Click here).

l  Local Life

Strolling Genteel Georgetown

x  Best of Washington, DC

Sports & Activities

C&O Canal Towpath

Georgetown Waterfront Park

Key Bridge Boathouse

Dumbarton Oaks Park

Eating

Pie Sisters

Baked & Wired

Shopping

Old Print Gallery

Book Hill

Getting There

g Bus The DC Circulator's Dupont–Georgetown–Rosslyn line runs from the Dupont Circle Metro station (south entrance), with stops on M Street. The Union Station–Georgetown line runs via K St.

m Metro The Foggy Bottom-GWU stop (Blue/Orange Lines) is a 0.75-mile walk from M St's action.

Walk A half-mile riverside path connects the Kennedy Center to Georgetown Waterfront Park.

1 Sights

1Dumbarton Oaks  D1

2Georgetown University  B2

3Exorcist Stairs  C3

4Tudor Place  D1

5Old Stone House  E3

6C&O Canal Towpath  E3

7Big Wheel Bikes  C3

8Key Bridge Boathouse  C3

5 Eating

91789  C2

10Ching Ching Cha  D3

11Unum  E3

12Pizzeria Paradiso  D3

13Cafe Milano  D2

14Sweetgreen  C3

15Simply Banh Mi  D1

6 Drinking

16Cafe Bonaparte  D1

17J Paul's  D3

3 Entertainment

18Blues Alley  D3

7 Shopping

19Old Print Gallery  E3

20Appalachian Spring  D2

21Tugooh Toys  D2

Sights

1Dumbarton OaksGARDENS, MUSEUM

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The mansion's 10 acres of enchanting formal gardens are straight out of a storybook. Even those who aren't flower enthusiasts will find it stirs the imagination. The manor itself deserves a walk-through to see exquisite Byzantine and pre-Columbian art (including El Greco's The Visitation) and the fascinating library of rare books.

(www.doaks.org; 1703 32nd St NW; museum free, gardens adult/child $8/5; hmuseum 11:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun, gardens 2-6pm)

1Georgetown UniversityUNIVERSITY

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Founded in 1789, Georgetown is one of the nation's top universities, with a student body that's equally hardworking and hard-partying. Bill Clinton is a famous alum, as are many international royals and heads of state. Near the campus' east gate, medieval-looking Healy Hall impresses with its tall, Hogwarts-esque clock tower. Pretty Dalghren Chapel and its quiet courtyard hide behind it.

(www.georgetown.edu; cnr 37th & O Sts NW)

1Exorcist StairsFILM LOCATION

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The steep set of stairs dropping down to M St is a popular track for joggers, but more famously it's the spot where demonically possessed Father Karras tumbles to his death in the 1973 horror classic The Exorcist. Come on foggy nights, when the stone steps really are creepy as hell.

(3600 Prospect St NW)

1Tudor PlaceMUSEUM

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This 1816 neoclassical mansion was owned by Thomas Peter and Martha Custis Peter, the granddaughter of Martha Washington. Today the mansion functions as a small museum, and features furnishings and artwork from Mount Vernon, which give a nice insight into American decorative arts. The grand, 5-acre gardens bloom with roses, lilies, poplar trees and exotic palms.

(www.tudorplace.org; 1644 31st St NW; 1hr house tour adult/child $10/3, self-guided garden tour $3; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun, closed Jan)

1Old Stone HouseHISTORIC SITE

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Built in 1765, the capital’s oldest surviving building has been a tavern, brothel and boardinghouse (sometimes all at once). Today it's a small museum offering a peek into Revolutionary War–era life. The evocative little garden in back is worth a mosey.

(www.nps.gov/olst; 3051 M St NW; hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun)

1C&O Canal TowpathWALKING, CYCLING

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This shaded hiking-cycling path – part of a larger national historic park – runs alongside a waterway constructed in the mid-1800s to transport goods all the way to West Virginia. Step on at Jefferson St for a lovely green escape from the crowd.

(www.nps.gov/choh; 1057 Thomas Jefferson St NW)

1Big Wheel BikesBICYCLE RENTAL

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Big Wheel has a wide variety of two-wheelers to rent, and you can spin onto the C&O Canal Towpath practically from the front door. Staff also provides the lowdown on the Capital Crescent Trail and Mount Vernon Trail, two other cycling rides in the area. There’s a three-hour minimum with rentals.

(www.bigwheelbikes.com; 1034 33rd St NW; per 3hr/day $21/35; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

1Key Bridge BoathouseKAYAKING

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The boathouse rents canoes, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. It also offers guided, 90-minute kayak trips (per person $45) in summer that glide past the Lincoln Memorial as the sun sets.

(www.boatingindc.com; 3500 Water St NW; hhours vary Mar-Oct)

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Local Life

Dumbarton Oaks Park

Next door to Dumbarton Oaks garden, Dumbarton Oaks Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.dopark.org; Lovers' Lane; hsunrise-sunset) was once part of the estate but is now a public woodlands beloved of joggers and dog walkers. Access it via Lovers' Lane (a paved path 200ft east of R and 31st Sts), and enter a world of forested trails, quaint stone bridges, miniwaterfalls and deer-filled meadows.

Eating

51789AMERICAN $$$

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1789 was one of the first high-end purveyors of ‘rustic New American’ fare, so if you’re going to try local ingredients sexed up with provincial flair (think Shenandoah Valley beef with wild-mushroom bread pudding), this is the spot to indulge. Lots of political bigwigs flock to the cozy, colonial room. While there's no longer a jacket requirement, most folks still look sharp.

(%202-965-1789; www.1789restaurant.com; 1226 36th St NW; mains $28-48; h6-10pm Mon-Thu, 6-11pm Fri, 5:30-11pm Sat, 5:30-10pm Sun)

5Ching Ching ChaASIAN $

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This airy, Zen-like teahouse feels a world away from the shopping mayhem of M St. Stop in for a pot of rare tea (it brews more than 70 varieties) and steamed dumplings, coconut tarts, or a three-course 'tea meal,' with little dishes along the lines of green squash and miso salmon.

(www.chingchingcha.com; 1063 Wisconsin Ave NW; snacks $2-5, 3-course tea meal $14; h11am-9pm)

Tea tasting at Ching Ching Cha

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

5UnumMODERN AMERICAN $$

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Unum hops on the upscale-casual, seasonal-fare bandwagon with its shareable plates and entrees such as Indian-spiced lamb shank and kale-pesto-sauced goat's-cheese ravioli. Sides of cashew-raisin brussels sprouts and lots of California wines go alongside. The intimate room, glimmering in warm golds and light wood, will please romantics.

(%202-621-6959; www.unumdc.com; 2917 M St NW; mains $19-28; h5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

5Pizzeria ParadisoPIZZA $$

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Casual Paradiso serves wood-oven Neapolitan-style pizzas with scrumptious toppings to crowds of hungry patrons. The pizza crust is perfect – light, crisp and a little flaky. There's great people-watching from the big plate-glass windows and popular happy hours. A great beer and ale selection heightens the appeal.

(%202-337-1245; www.eatyourpizza.com; 3282 M St NW; mains $13-20; h11:30am-10pm Mon & Tue, to 11pm Wed & Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

5Cafe MilanoITALIAN $$$

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Milano has been reeling in political glitterati and besotted Georgetown couples for years with its executions of northern Italian favorites. Be prepared to pay for the European-chic ambience and celebrity-spotting. The pastas get the biggest praise, especially the ones prepared tableside.

(%202-333-6183; www.cafemilano.com; 3251 Prospect St NW; mains $25-45; h11:30am-11pm Sun-Tue, to midnight Wed-Sat)

5SweetgreenHEALTH FOOD $

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Georgetown's teeny branch of the uber-healthy salad and frozen-yogurt chain was the first. Order your gigantic bowl of curry-yogurt-sauced roasted chicken and greens (or other equally wholesome dish) at the counter, then take it to the waterfront park to consume.

(%202-337-9338; www.sweetgreen.com; 3333 M St NW; mains $8-11; h11am-10pm; v)

5Simply Banh MiVIETNAMESE $

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There's nothing fancy about the small, below-street-level space, and the compact menu sticks to sandwiches and bubble tea. But the brother-sister owners know how to take a crusty baguette, stuff it with delicious lemongrass chicken or other meat, and make your day.

(www.simplybanhmidc.com; 1624 Wisconsin Ave NW; mains $6-9; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)

l

Local Life

Pie Sisters

The neighbors can't help but stop in to see what the Pie Sisters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-338-7437; www.piesisters.com; 3423 M St NW; slices $5; h11am-7pm Tue, Wed & Sun, to 9pm Thu-Sat) have cooling on the rack. Chocolate cream and jumbleberry tempt among the sweet wares, while chicken potpie and pork barbecue pie waft savory goodness. A smattering of tables lets you fork in immediately.

Drinking

6Cafe BonaparteCAFE

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This jewel-box cafe feels like it's plucked from the streets of Paris. Come to sip a café au lait or glass of sparkling wine. Hopefully you're not in a hurry, because service can be slow. Frites, crepes and chocolate tortes emerge from the kitchen for those in need of a nosh.

(www.cafebonaparte.com; 1522 Wisconsin Ave NW; h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, 10am-midnight Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm Sun)

6J Paul’sPUB

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Politicians, lobbyists, students and other locals belly up at J Paul’s to knock beers back and enjoy great burgers, steaks, ribs and seared salmon. Join the group at the long mahogany shotgun bar, especially during happy hour when deals on oysters and other menu items prevail.

(%202-333-3450; 3218 M St NW; h11:30am-2am Mon-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun)

Entertainment

3Blues AlleyJAZZ

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Greats like Dizzy Gillespie and Sarah Vaughan played this venerable club back in the day. The talent remains just as sterling now, and the setting just as sophisticated. Reserve a ticket in advance if a big name is making music. Enter through the alley just off M St, south of Wisconsin Ave.

(www.bluesalley.com; 1073 Wisconsin Ave NW; admission from $20; hshows 8pm & 10pm)

Shopping

7Old Print GalleryMAPS

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This small store sells a fantastic array of vintage maps and prints. Looking for a chart of Kentucky c 1794, or maybe Hindustan (India) in 1855? What about an 1844 hand-colored Audubon lithograph of a cayenne tern? The globe-spanning trove is a great place to browse and hold a bit of history in your hands.

(www.oldprintgallery.com; 1220 31st St NW; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sat)

7Appalachian SpringARTS, CRAFTS

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Touting its motto, ‘fine American craft,’ Appalachian Spring features handmade pottery, woodcarvings, quilts and jewelry. The carved wooden boxes and handblown glass bowls make handsome gifts.

(www.appalachianspring.com; 1415 Wisconsin Ave NW; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun)

7Tugooh ToysCHILDREN

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If you’ve ever been nostalgic for the great wooden toys of childhood, this hip wonderland has the goods with clever modern touches. Lots of ecofriendly playthings and educational games stack the shelves, too.

(www.tugoohtoys.com; 1355 Wisconsin Ave NW; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri & Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)

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Local Life

Strolling Genteel Georgetown

If ever a neighborhood was prime for ambling, it's Georgetown, in all its leafy, filigreed-manor glory. The area has always been Washington's poshest place. A wander through reveals grand row houses, swanky antique shops, indulgent patisseries and university rowing crews, along with hot spots related to John F Kennedy and Jackie.

1 Book Hill Antiques

Take a Break Book Hill is a Paris-like row of art galleries, interior-design stores and antique shops that slopes down the 1600 block of Wisconsin Ave (between Q St and R St NW). When Georgetowners need Chinese lacquered chests or lavender linen-drawer liners for their home, Book Hill is their one-stop shop.

2 Croissants at Patisserie Poupon

Take a Break The society ladies know where to replenish mid-shopping spree: Patisserie Poupon ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.patisseriepoupon.net; 1645 Wisconsin Ave NW; baked goods $3-5; h8:30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 8am-5:30pm Sat, 8am-4pm Sun). Join them in nibbling almond croissants or drinking French-press coffee at one of the little cafe's tables.

3 Martin's Tavern à la Jack & Jackie

Take a Break John F Kennedy proposed to Jackie in booth three at Martin's Tavern ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-333-7370; www.martins-tavern.com; 1264 Wisconsin Ave NW; mains $17-32; h11am-1:30am Mon-Thu, 11am-2:30am Fri, 9am-2:30am Sat, 8am-1:30am Sun). Georgetown’s oldest saloon remains a favorite with university students and senators alike, who appreciate the warm, dark-wood ambience and unfussy classics such as thick burgers, crab cakes and icy-cold beers.

4 N Street Style

Take a Break Walk on tree-shaded N St and you'll see the neighborhood's typical Federal-style row houses. With $1 million or so you can buy one of the historic beauties. JFK and Jackie lived at number 3307 N St between 1958 and 1961, when they packed up and left for the White House.

5 Drinks at the Tombs

Take a Break If it looks familiar, think back to the ’80s: the Tombs ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tombs.com; 1226 36th St NW; h11:30am-1:30am Mon-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat, 9:30am-1:30am Sun) was the setting for the film St Elmo’s Fire. Today the cozy, subterranean pub is a favorite with Georgetown students and teaching assistants boozing under the crew regalia affixed to the walls.

6 M Street Shop-a-thon

Take a Break M St is Georgetown's main vein where the young and fashionable come to shop. Upscale brand-name stores (AllSaints Spitalfields, Calvin Klein, Diesel) mix it up with designer consignment boutiques. Many a wallet is lightened along the way.

7 Baked & Wired Refuel

Take a Break Sniff out Baked & Wired ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-333-2500; www.bakedandwired.com; 1052 Thomas Jefferson St NW; baked goods $3-6; h7am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 9am-8pm Sun; W), a cheery cafe that whips up beautifully made coffees and monster cupcakes. It’s a fine spot to join students in both real and virtual chatter (free wi-fi, of course).

8 People-Watching at the Park

Take a Break Georgetown Waterfront Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; Water St NW, btwn 30th St & Key Bridge; c) is a favorite with couples on first dates, families on an evening stroll and power players showing off their big yachts. Benches dot the way, where you can sit and watch the rowing teams out on the Potomac River. Alfresco restaurants cluster near the harbor at 31st St NW.

Capitol Hill

While there’s no denying the big domed Capitol building grabs all the attention, the city's geographic and legislative heart feels more like a cozy borough than a power-brokering nexus. Traditional brownstone homes line the streets, and the areas around Eastern Market and H St NE are locals’ hubs, packed with good-time restaurants and nightlife. Several excellent sights are also here.

Capitol Hill

Danita Delimont/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Tour the dramatic Capitol, filled with statues, frescoes and whispery chambers. Take the underground tunnel over to the Supreme Court. Hopefully the justices are listening to oral arguments (October to April) that you can sit in on; otherwise you're free to explore the building. Next door the Library of Congress holds fascinating exhibits and artworks.

R Get lunch fresh off the boat at the Maine Avenue Fish Market. The haunting US Holocaust Memorial Museum and money-churning Bureau of Engraving & Printing sit side by side in a little sliver of spillover from the Mall.

N When the sun goes down, head to H St NE. Have dinner at Atlas Room, catch a set at jazzy HR-57 or the Rock & Roll Hotel, and booze at Little Miss Whiskey's Golden Dollar. Another option is to spend the evening at a Washington Nationals game, with a pit stop at Bluejacket Brewery.

For a local’s day in Capitol Hill, see (Click here).

1  Top Sights

Capitol

US Holocaust Memorial Museum

l  Local Life

A Capital Day on Capitol Hill

x  Best of Washington, DC

Eating

Atlas Room

Toki Underground

Ethiopic

Maine Avenue Fish Market

Shopping

Eastern Market

Flea Market

Capitol Hill Books

Live Music

Rock & Roll Hotel

HR-57

Getting There

m Metro Union Station (Red Line), Capitol South and Eastern Market (Orange and Blue).

g Bus To reach H St from Union Station, catch the X2 bus on the corner of N Capitol and H Sts NE.

Streetcar DC's new streetcar line will cover H St when completed. Check progress at www.dcstreetcar.com.

1

Top Sights

Capitol

Probably the most famous landmark in the country, the Capitol is where the legislative branch of American government – ie Congress – does its law-making. The lower House of Representatives (435 members) and upper Senate (100 members) meet respectively in the south and north wings of the building. It's had quite a history: George Washington laid the cornerstone in 1793; the British burnt it down in 1814; and it rose again with its soaring, cast-iron, nine-million-pound dome a half-century later.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.visitthecapitol.gov; First St NE & E Capitol St; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat; mCapitol South

Capitol

Jon Hicks/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Between March and August, it's wise to reserve tours online in advance (there’s no fee).

A To watch Congress in session, you need a separate visitor pass. US citizens must get one from their representative or senator; foreign visitors should take their passports to the House and Senate Appointment Desks on the upper level.

A To reach the Supreme Court and Library of Congress easily, take the underground tunnel from the Capitol.

5 Take a Break

Jimmy T's ( GOOGLE MAP ; 501 E Capitol St SE; mains $6-10; h6:30am-3pm Tue-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun; c; mEastern Market) is an old-school diner four blocks from the Capitol where locals come for omelets and coffee; cash only. Good Stuff Eatery is also nearby for foodie-style burgers and milk shakes.

Don't Miss

Capitol Visitor Center & Tours

Enter the Capitol via the underground visitor center below the East Plaza. Guided tours of the building are free, but you need a ticket. Get one at the information desk or reserve online in advance. The hour-long jaunt starts with a cheesy film about how the US government works. Staff then lead you into the ornate halls and whispery chambers.

Rotunda

The Capitol's centerpiece is the magnificent rotunda (the area under the dome). It's 96ft in diameter and 180ft high. A Constantino Brumidi frieze around the rim replays more than 400 years of American history. Look up into the dome's eye for the Apotheosis of Washington, an allegorical fresco by Brumidi. Alas, the dome is getting a face-lift until early 2017, so parts of it are obscured.

Dome of the Capitol

Tetra Images – Henryk Sadur/Getty Images ©

Statues

The Capitol contains sculptures of two famous residents per state. Many of these are found in the Hall of Statues. You might recognize likenesses of George Washington (Virginia) and Ronald Reagan (California), less so Uriah Milton Rose (Arkansas). After the tour, swing by the Exhibition Hall and check out the plaster model for the 19ft Statue of Freedom that crowns the dome.

Military Bands

The Army, Navy, Marine Corps and Air Force bands take turns performing on the steps of the Capitol on weekdays (except Thursday) June through August. Look for them at 8pm on the West Front.

1

Top Sights

US Holocaust Memorial Museum

For a deep understanding of the Holocaust – its victims, perpetrators and bystanders – this harrowing museum is a must-see. The main exhibit gives visitors the identity card of a single Holocaust victim, whose story gets revealed as you take a winding route into a hellish past marked by ghettos, railcars and death camps. It also shows the flip side of human nature, documenting the risks many citizens took to help the persecuted.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%202-488-0400; www.ushmm.org; 100 Raoul Wallenberg Pl SW; h10am-5:20pm, to 6:20pm Mon-Fri Apr & May; mSmithsonian

US Holocaust Memorial Museum

Kim Sayer/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A Same-day passes to view the permanent exhibit are required March through August, available at the pass desk on the 1st floor. The passes allow entrance at a designated time. Arrive early because they do run out.

A Better yet, reserve tickets in advance via the museum’s website for a $1 surcharge.

A If you have children under age 11, a gentler kids’ installation is on the 1st floor.

5 Take a Break

Follow your nose to the Maine Avenue Fish Market and a feast of blue crabs and chowder. It's about 0.75 miles southeast of the museum. Or grab a Nutella latte at Pound, a short walk from the Metro Blue Line station at Eastern Market.

Don't Miss

Hall of Witness & Skylight

James Ingo Freed designed the building in 1993, and its stark facade and steel-and-glass interior echo the death camps themselves. Look up at the skylight in the Hall of Witness when you enter the building. Many survivors say this reminds them of the sky above the camps. For them it was symbolic, the only thing the Nazis couldn’t control.

Nazi Assault

The permanent exhibit presents the Holocaust’s history chronologically in galleries spanning three levels. It starts on the 4th floor, which is titled ‘Nazi Assault’ and covers the period between 1933 and 1939. Watch propaganda videos of Hitler, Goebbels and others, and learn how the Nazis used modern techniques such as video to craft their message to sway citizens.

Final Solution & Last Chapter

The 3rd floor is ‘The Final Solution,’ covering the period between 1940 and 1945. Here you’ll see a railcar used to transport people to the camps, a wooden bunk bed from Auschwitz and a scale model of Crematorium II at Auschwitz. The 2nd floor is the ‘Last Chapter,’ where old film footage shows the camps’ liberation, and videos illuminate individual survivors telling their stories.

Hall of Remembrance & Wexner Center

After the permanent exhibit you come out into the candlelit Hall of Remembrance, a sanctuary for quiet reflection. The Wexner Center is likewise on this floor, featuring exhibits on other genocides around the world.

1 Top Sights

Capitol  D3

US Holocaust Memorial Museum  A3

1 Sights

1Library of Congress  E3

2Supreme Court  E3

3Bureau of Engraving & Printing  A3

4Bike & Roll  B4

5National Public Radio  D1

5 Eating

6Atlas Room  F1

7Toki Underground  G1

8Ethiopic  E1

9Seventh Hill Pizza  F4

10Ted's Bulletin  F4

11Pound  F4

12Good Stuff Eatery  E3

6 Drinking

13Little Miss Whiskey's Golden Dollar  G1

14Bluejacket Brewery  E5

15H Street Country Club  G1

16Granville Moore's  G1

17Phase 1  F4

3 Entertainment

18Washington Nationals  D5

19Rock & Roll Hotel  G1

Sights

1Library of CongressLIBRARY

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The world's largest library – with 29 million books and counting – awes in both scope and design. The centerpiece is the 1897 Jefferson Building. Gawk at the Great Hall done up in stained glass, marble and mosaics of mythical characters, then seek out the Gutenberg Bible (c 1455), Thomas Jefferson’s round library and the reading-room viewing area.

(www.loc.gov; 1st St SE; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat; mCapitol South)

1Supreme CourtLANDMARK

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The highest court in America sits in a pseudo-Greek temple that you enter through 13,000lb bronze doors. Arrive early to watch arguments (periodic Mondays through Wednesdays October to April). You can visit the permanent exhibits and the building’s five-story, marble-and-bronze, spiral staircase year-round. On days when court is not in session you also can hear lectures (every hour on the half-hour) in the courtroom.

(%202-479-3030; www.supremecourt.gov; 1 1st St NE; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri; mCapitol South)

1Bureau of Engraving & PrintingLANDMARK

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Cha-ching! The nation's paper currency is designed and printed here. Guides lead 40-minute tours during which you peer down on the work floor where millions of dollars roll off the presses and get cut (by guillotine!). Timed entry tickets are required. Get in line early at the ticket kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; Raoul Wallenberg Pl, aka 15th St); it opens at 8am.

(www.moneyfactory.gov; cnr 14th & C Sts SW; h9-10:45am, 12:30-3:45pm & 5-6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Aug, reduced hours Sep-Feb; mSmithsonian)

1Bike & Roll – L'Enfant PlazaBICYCLE TOUR

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Three-hour bike tours wheel by the main sights of Capitol Hill and the National Mall. The evening rides to the monuments are particularly good. The company also rents bikes (per hour $8).

(www.bikeandrolldc.com; 955 L'Enfant Plaza SW; tours adult/child $40/30; hmid-Mar–early Dec; mL'Enfant Plaza)

1National Public RadioBUILDING

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Fans of Morning Edition and All Things Considered can see where the magic happens at National Public Radio's headquarters. Hour-long tours peek into the newsroom and a high-tech production studio. The guides – usually former employees – entertain with insider stories. Reservations are required.

(www.npr.org/about-npr/177066727/visit-npr; 1111 N Capitol St NE; htours 11am Mon-Fri; mNoMa)

Understand

Slave to Statesman: Frederick Douglass

Born Frederick Augustus Washington Bailey in 1818 on a slave plantation along Maryland's Eastern Shore, Frederick Douglass was one of the country's most influential and outstanding black 19th-century leaders.

In 1838, at 20 years old, he escaped wretched treatment at the hands of Maryland planters and established himself as a freeman in New Bedford, Massachusetts, eventually working for abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison's antislavery paper, the Liberator. His years as a slave led Douglass to a profound personal truth: 'Men are whipped oftenist who are whipped easiest.' After his escape, he took his new last name from a character in the Sir Walter Scott book The Lady of the Lake. Largely self-educated, Douglass had a natural gift for eloquence. In 1841 he won the admiration of New England abolitionists with an impromptu speech at an antislavery convention, introducing himself as 'a recent graduate from the institution of slavery,' with his 'diploma' (ie whip marks on his back).

Crusader & Underground Railroad Conductor

Douglass' effectiveness so angered proslavery forces that his supporters urged him to flee to England to escape seizure and punishment under the Fugitive Slave Law. He followed their advice and kept lecturing in England until admirers contributed enough money ($710.96) to enable him to purchase his freedom and return home in 1847.

Douglass then became the self-proclaimed 'station master and conductor' of the Underground Railroad in Rochester, NY, working with other famed abolitionists such as Harriet Tubman and John Brown. In 1860, Douglass campaigned for Abraham Lincoln, and when the Civil War broke out, helped raise two regiments of black soldiers – the Massachusetts 54th and 55th – to fight for the Union.

Postwar Leader

After the war, Douglass went to Washington to support the 13th, 14th and 15th Constitutional Amendments, which abolished slavery, granted citizenship to former slaves and guaranteed citizens the right to vote.

In 1895, Douglass died at his Anacostia home, Cedar Hill, now the Frederick Douglass National Historic Site. The hilltop residence sits just across the Anacostia River, about 2 miles southeast of Nationals Park.

Eating

5Atlas RoomAMERICAN $$

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The Atlas Room takes cues from classical French and Italian gastronomy, but blends them in uniquely American ways, while drawing from an entirely seasonal roster of ingredients. In summer you might enjoy crab fritters, while in winter a braised daube of beef will melt your tongue (in a good way!).

(%202-388-4020; www.theatlasroom.com; 1015 H St NE; mains $21-25; h5:30-9:30pm Tue-Thu, 5:30-10pm Fri & Sat, 5-9pm Sun; gX2 from Union Station)

5Toki UndergroundASIAN $

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Spicy ramen noodles and dumplings sum up the menu in wee Toki. Steaming pots and pans obscure the busy chefs, while diners slurp and sigh contentedly. The eatery doesn’t take reservations and there’s typically a wait. Take the opportunity to explore surrounding bars; Toki will text when your table is ready. The restaurant isn't signposted; look for the Pug bar; Toki is above it.

(%202-388-3086; www.tokiunderground.com; 1234 H St NE; mains $10-12; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; gX2 from Union Station)

5EthiopicETHIOPIAN $$

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In a city with no shortage of Ethiopian joints, Ethiopic stands above the rest. Top marks to the various wats (stews) and the signature tibs (sauteed meat and veg), derived from tender lamb that has sat in a bath of herbs and hot spices. Vegans get lots of love here.

(%202-675-2066; www.ethiopicrestaurant.com; 401 H St NE; mains $12-18; h5-10pm Tue-Thu, from noon Fri-Sun; v; mUnion Station)

5Seventh Hill PizzaPIZZA $$

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It's just blistered, thin-crust pizza, but it's soooo addictive. Each pie is named for a local street or park, such as the 'Potomac Ave,' topped with Felino salami and arugula. To kick it up a notch, head next door to Montmartre, Seventh Hill's cozy French sister restaurant that serves great wines, steak and eggy brunch dishes. Both spaces are neighborhood gathering spots.

(www.montmartredc.com/seventhhill; 327 7th St SE; pizzas $11-17; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, 11:30am-10pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun; mEastern Market)

5Ted’s BulletinAMERICAN $$

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Plop into a booth in the art-deco-meets-diner ambience and loosen the belt. Beer biscuits and sausage gravy for breakfast, meatloaf with ketchup glaze for dinner and other hipster spins on comfort foods hit the table. You have to admire a place that lets you substitute pop tarts for toast. Breakfast is available all day.

(%202-544-8337; www.tedsbulletincapitolhill.com; 505 8th St SE; mains $10-19; h7am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; c; mEastern Market)

5PoundCAFE $$

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Pound serves high-quality coffees amid an elegant rustic interior (exposed brick and timber, original plaster ceilings, wood floors and nicely lit artwork). Breakfast quesadillas, panini and daily lunch specials are tops – as is the Nutella latte. In the evening, Pound turns into a wine-slinging bistro offering wholesome American fare such as shrimp tacos and goat's-cheese burgers.

(www.poundcoffee.com; 621 Pennsylvania Ave SE; sandwiches $6-9, mains $14-19; h7am-4pm Mon, 7am-10pm Tue-Thu, 7am-11pm Fri, 7:30am-11pm Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; W; mEastern Market)

5Good Stuff EateryBURGERS $

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Spike Mendelsohn (of Top Chef TV fame) is the cook behind Good Stuff, a popular burgers-shakes-and-fries spot. You can top off fries at the ‘dipping bar’ of various sauces, and the toasted marshmallow milk shake comes with an honest-to-god toasted marshmallow.

(www.goodstuffeatery.com; 303 Pennsylvania Ave SE; burgers $7-9; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Sat; c; mCapitol South, Eastern Market)

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Local Life

Maine Avenue Fish Market

The pungent, open-air Maine Avenue Fish Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1100 Maine Ave SW; mains $7-13; h8am-9pm; mL’Enfant Plaza) is a local landmark. No-nonsense vendors sell fish, crabs, oysters and other seafood so fresh it's almost still flopping. They'll kill, strip, shell, gut, fry or broil your desire, which you can take to the waterfront benches and eat blissfully (mind the seagulls!). The surrounding area is being heavily redeveloped, but supposedly the market will remain as is.

Drinking

6Little Miss Whiskey’s Golden DollarBAR

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If Alice had returned from Wonderland so traumatized by her near beheading that she needed a stiff drink, we imagine she’d pop down to Little Miss Whiskey’s. She’d love the whimsical-meets-dark-nightmares decor. And she’d probably have fun with the club kids partying on the upstairs dance floor on weekends. She'd also adore the weirdly fantastic back patio. Cash only.

(www.littlemisswhiskeys.com; 1104 H St NE; h5pm-2am; gX2 from Union Station)

6Bluejacket BreweryBREWERY

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Beer lovers' heads will explode in Bluejacket. Pull up a stool at the mod-industrial bar, gaze at the silvery tanks bubbling up the ambitious brews, then make the hard decision about which of the 25 tap beers you want to try. A dry-hopped Kölsch? Sweet-spiced stout? A cask-aged farmhouse ale? Four-ounce tasting pours help with decision-making.

(%202-524-4862; www.bluejacketdc.com; 300 Tingey St SE; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mNavy Yard)

Bluejacket Brewery

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

6H Street Country ClubBAR

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The Country Club is two levels of great. The bottom floor is packed with pool tables, Skee-Ball and shuffleboard, while the top contains (seriously) its own mini-golf course ($7 to play) done up to resemble a tour of the city on a small scale.

(www.thehstreetcountryclub.com; 1335 H St NE; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri, 11am-3am Sat, 11am-1am Sun; gX2 from Union Station)

6Granville Moore’sPUB

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Besides being one of DC's best places to grab frites and a steak sandwich, Granville Moore’s has an extensive Belgian beer menu that should satisfy any fan of low-country boozing. With its raw, wooden fixtures and walls that look as if they were made from daub and mud, the interior resembles a medieval barracks. The fireside setting is ideal on a winter’s eve.

(www.granvillemoores.com; 1238 H St NE; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri, 11am-3am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun; gX2 from Union Station)

6Phase 1LESBIAN

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‘The Phase’ claims to be the oldest lesbian bar in the country; it’s certainly the best lesbian dive in DC, not that there’s much competition for the crown. It’s great, friendly fun by any measure, chockablock with jello wrestling, free pizza nights and an unpretentious but raucous enough atmosphere for ladies on the prowl.

(www.phase1dc.com; 525 8th St SE; h7:30pm-2am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 2am Sun; mEastern Market)

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Local Life

HR-57

Named after the Congressional bill that designated jazz ‘a rare and valuable national treasure,’ HR-57 is a preservation hall for the genre. The atmospheric little club hosts open jam sessions with local musicians on Wednesday and Thursday nights, and snappy bands Friday and Saturday. You’re welcome to bring your own wine for the open jams ($5 corkage fee); a bar operates on weekends.

Entertainment

3Washington NationalsBASEBALL

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The major league Nats play baseball at Nationals Park beside the Anacostia River. Don't miss the mid-4th-inning ‘Racing Presidents’ – an odd foot race between giant-headed caricatures of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Thomas Jefferson, Teddy Roosevelt and Willam Taft (there's a wacky photo op post race behind Section 131). Hip eateries have been cropping up around the stadium as the area gentrifies.

(www.nationals.com; 1500 S Capitol St SE; W; mNavy Yard)

3Rock & Roll HotelLIVE MUSIC

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The R&R Hotel is a great, grotty spot to catch rockin’ live sets from the likes of Thurston Moore, Mudhoney and the Dead Kennedys. Don’t let the name fool you; this hotel hosts all kinds of music genres from Afrofunk to the city’s freshest hip-hop acts, with indie, punk and metal, too.

(www.rockandrollhoteldc.com; 1353 H St NE; gX2 from Union Station)

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Local Life

A Capital Day on Capitol Hill

Pretend you're a resident of one of the brownstone homes along the red-brick sidewalks and shop for seafood at Eastern Market or browse the Flea Market's curios. Have breakfast anytime in a dive bar, then stop by the rambling, double-stacked bookshop. Knock back a beer across from the Marine Barracks and wave to neighbors at the riverside park.

1 The Dive Bar: Tune Inn

Take a Break Tune Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; 331 Pennsylvania Ave SE; mains $7-14; h8am-2am Sun-Fri, to 3am Sat; mCapitol South, Eastern Market) has been around for decades and is where the neighborhood's older residents come to knock back Budweisers. The mounted deer heads and antler chandelier set the mood, as greasy-spoon grub and all-day breakfasts get gobbled in the vinyl-backed booths.

2 Capitol Hill Books

Take a Break Rambling Capitol Hill Books ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.capitolhillbooks-dc.com; 657 C St SE; h11:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; mEastern Market) has so many used tomes they're stacked two deep on the shelves. They're even stacked in the bathroom. Floors creak and classical music plays as neighborhood bibliophiles sift through the whopping selection.

3 Eastern Market

Take a Break Eastern Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.easternmarket-dc.org; 225 7th St SE; h7am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; mEastern Market) is the true heart of Capitol Hill. The covered arcade holds a bakery, dairy, butcher, blue-crab-and-shrimp company, and produce vendors. It's not that large…until the weekend, when artisans and farmers join the fun and the market spills onto the street.

4 Flea Market Finds

Take a Break On weekends the Flea Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.easternmarket.net; 7th & C Sts SE; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun; mEastern Market) sets up across from Eastern Market in the Hines school yard, doubling the browsing acreage. Vendors sell cool art, antiques, furniture, maps, prints, global wares, clothing and curios. Sunday is the busier day, with more stalls.

5 Street Art at the Fridge

Take a Break First you have to find the Fridge ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thefridgedc.com; 516½ 8th St SE, rear alley; hnoon-8pm Wed-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mEastern Market), a friendly gallery specializing in street art. Follow the murals and graffiti into the alley beside the oyster shop. The space hosts music and theater performances, as well.

6 Beer at Lola's Barracks

Take a Break Lola’s Barracks Bar & Grill ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lolasbarracksbarandgrill.com; 711 8th St SE; h5pm-2am Mon & Tue, 11am-2am Wed-Thu & Sun, 11am-3am Fri & Sat; mEastern Market) sits across the street from the Marine Barracks, hence the name. Cap Hill professionals drink wine and craft beer in the snug, low-lit main room. Check out the old neighborhood photos hanging on the walls.

7 Dinner at Rose's Luxury

Take a Break Locals line up for shabby-chic Rose's Luxury ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-580-8889; www.rosesluxury.com; 717 8th St SE; small plates $12-14, family-style plates $28-33; h5:30-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; mEastern Market), which offers a small, changing menu of 10 or so plates a day. The pork sausage, habanero and lychee salad is the salty-sweet dish on everyone's lips.

8 River Views at Yards Park

Take a Break Lovely Yards Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.yardspark.org; 355 Water St SE; h7am-2hr past sunset; mNavy Yard) is a sculpted public space with a wooden boardwalk, excellent river views, a funky modernist bridge and a mini tidal pool that is popular with neighborhood families on summer evenings.

Downtown & Penn Quarter

This neighborhood bustles day and night. Major sights include the National Archives, where the Declaration of Independence is enshrined; the Reynolds Center for American Art, with famed portraits and big-name artists’ works; and Ford’s Theatre, where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. This is also DC’s buffed theater district and convention hub. Trendy bars and restaurants cater to the crowds.

Downtown & Penn Corner

Hisham Ibrahim/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start at the National Archives; see a trove of historical documents including the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution and Pa Ingalls' prairie land grant. Visit the Newseum, a whiz-bang, multistory collection of artifacts and current-events exhibits. Tour Ford’s Theatre, where John Wilkes Booth shot Abraham Lincoln.

R Indulge in a top-end lunch at Rasika or Central Michel Richard, or get your fingers dirty at Hill Country Barbecue. Spend a few hours browsing the excellent Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture. Across the street, the International Spy Museum reveals sneaky tricks of the trade. The underappreciated National Building Museum and National Museum of Women in the Arts also beckon.

N See a theater performance. The Capitol Steps do political shtick. Shakespeare Theatre Company puts on the bard’s plays. Studio Theatre and Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company stage contemporary and experimental works. For sustenance stroll up to Logan Circle to Le Diplomate, Estadio or Churchkey.

For a local’s day in Downtown & Penn Quarter, see (Click here).

1  Top Sights

National Archives

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture

x  Best of Washington, DC

Eating

Rasika

Central Michel Richard

Bars & Clubs

A&D Bar

Churchkey

Theater & Performing Arts

Shakespeare Theatre Company

Studio Theatre

Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company

Ford's Theatre

Capitol Steps

Getting There

m Metro All five Metro lines cross downtown, so there are several stations here. The main ones are Metro Center (where the Red, Blue and Orange Lines hub), and Gallery Pl (where the Green, Yellow and Red Lines merge).

1

Top Sights

National Archives

You’re in line with all of the school groups, annoyed, thinking maybe your time would be better spent at a local watering hole. Then you enter the dim rotunda and see them – the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution and the Bill of Rights – the USA’s founding documents. The National Archives has the real, yellowing, spidery-handwriting-scrawled parchments. And your jaw drops. There’s John Hancock’s signature, and Ben Franklin’s and Thomas Jefferson’s!

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%866-272-6272; www.archives.gov/museum; 700 Pennsylvania Ave NW; h10am-5:30pm Sep–mid-Mar, to 7pm mid-Mar–Aug; mArchives

National Archives

Hisham Ibrahim/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A In spring and summer, reserve tickets in advance on the website for $1.50 each. This lets you go through the fast-track entrance on Constitution Dr (to the right of the steps) versus the general entrance (to the left of the steps), where queues can be lengthy.

A Peruse the Archives Shop for top-notch souvenirs.

A To get your bearings: the rotunda and Public Vaults are on the upper level; the Magna Carta and shop are on the ground level (the same as the entrance).

5 Take a Break

Grab fast, filling Indian food at Merzi, or gnaw on smoked meat at Hill Country Barbecue. They're across the street from each other a few blocks north of the Archives.

Don't Miss

Declaration of Independence

The star documents are laid out in chronological order from left to right in the rotunda. Don’t expect to linger over any of them – guards make you keep moving. First up is the Declaration (1776). It's in pretty good shape considering it has moved around so often, including evacuations to Virginia during the War of 1812 and to Fort Knox, KY, during WWII.

Constitution & Bill of Rights

Next up is the Constitution (1787). A clerk named Jacob Shallus set quill to parchment and penned the document's 4543 words in two days. He was paid $30. Editors in the group can try to spot the spelling error (hint: look at the list of signatories, at the word that starts with ‘p’ and ends with ‘sylvania’). The Bill of Rights (1789) unfurls in the next display case.

Public Vaults

After the rotunda, head through the hall to the Public Vaults. Browse George Washington's handwritten letters and Abraham Lincoln's wartime telegrams. There’s a nifty piece of paperwork from Charles ‘Pa’ Ingalls (of Little House on the Prairie fame) showing his grant application for 154 acres in the Dakota Territory. You can also watch vintage D-Day reels.

Magna Carta

A 1297 version of the Magna Carta is on view in the Rubenstein Gallery. It inspired America's founding fathers with its assertion of individual rights and protections against a tyrannical ruler. The Constitution's Fifth Amendment is a direct descendant of the older document.

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Top Sights

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture

If you only visit one art museum in DC, make it the Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture, which combines the National Portrait Gallery and the American Art Museum. There is, simply put, no better collection of American art in the world than at these two Smithsonian museums. They occupy three floors in the 19th-century US Patent Office building, a neoclassical beauty that hosted Lincoln’s second inaugural ball.

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%202-633-1000; www.americanart.si.edu; cnr 8th & F Sts NW; h11:30am-7pm; mGallery PI

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture

Paul Morigi/Getty Images ©

y Top Tips

A The Reynolds Center makes a good stop later in the day, given its hours of operation.

A Don't overlook the changing exhibitions. The museum curates excellent ones, including shows by big-name artists.

A Ask at any of the info desks for the '10 Highlights' brochure.

A The museum hosts loads of free public programs, including docent-led tours, concerts, artist talks and sketching classes. Check the daily events calendar online.

5 Take a Break

The museum's 1st-floor inner courtyard, roofed with slanting glass and dotted with olive trees and peaceful fountains, is a lovely spot. Bring your own picnic or order sandwiches at the cafe (11:30am to 6:30pm; mains $9 to $13). Matchbox Pizza beckons nearby with crisp-crust pie and craft brews.

Don't Miss

O’Keeffe, Hopper & Folk Art

The American Experience gallery (1st floor) hangs blockbusters such as Georgia O’Keeffe’s flowery pink Manhattan and Edward Hopper’s trapped woman in Cape Cod Morning. The nearby folk-art gallery holds a vivid collection, especially by African American artists. Look for James Hampton's exquisite, foil-made throne. It's the only piece the artist ever made, a masterwork that took 14 years.

Historic Portraits

The America's Presidents gallery (2nd floor) gives due to 43 heads of state. Gilbert Stuart’s rosy-cheeked George Washington is the most beloved. The 'cracked plate' photo of Abraham Lincoln is also here. Then seek out Benjamin Franklin. You'll recognize the image, as it's the same one that now graces the $100 bill. Ben's portrait enriches the American Origins gallery (1st floor).

Modern Art

Looking for something a little more 20th century? The 3rd floor has Andy Warhol's pop-art version of Marilyn Monroe, and groovy paintings by Roy Lichtenstein, Franz Kline and more modern blue-chip artists. Nam June Paik's neon Electric Superhighway will sear your retinas.

Luce Center

The Luce Center, the museum's open storage area, spills across the 3rd and 4th floors. Wander around the trove and ogle cases of paintings. Open drawers filled with portrait miniatures, antique medals and vintage jewelry. Peruse shelves stacked with sculptures, ceramics and other gorgeous objets d'art. The center has its own information desk that provides free audio tours.

1 Top Sights

National Archives  C7

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture  C6

1 Sights

1Newseum  D7

2Ford's Theatre  C6

3Ford's Theatre Center  C6

4International Spy Museum  C6

5National Building Museum  E6

6Chinatown  D5

7National Museum of Women in the Arts  B5

8Touchstone Gallery  C4

5 Eating

9Central Michel Richard  B7

10Rasika  D7

11Le Diplomate  A1

12Hill Country Barbecue  D7

13Merzi  D6

14Estadio  A1

15Zaytinya  C5

16Matchbox Pizza  D5

17Astro Doughnuts & Fried Chicken  B5

18Daikaya  D5

6 Drinking

19Churchkey  A2

20A&D Bar  C2

21RFD Washington  D5

3 Entertainment

22Shakespeare Theatre Company  D6

23Studio Theatre  A1

24Capitol Steps  A7

25National Theatre  B6

26Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company  D7

27Washington Capitals  D6

28Washington Wizards  D6

Sights

1NewseumMUSEUM

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This six-story, highly interactive news museum is worth the admission price. You can delve into the major events of recent years (the fall of the Berlin Wall, September 11, Hurricane Katrina), and spend hours watching moving film footage and perusing Pulitzer Prize–winning photographs. The concourse level displays FBI artifacts from prominent news stories, such as the Unabomber’s cabin.

(www.newseum.org; 555 Pennsylvania Ave NW; adult/child $23/14; h9am-5pm; c; mArchives, Judiciary Sq)

1Ford’s TheatreHISTORIC SITE

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On April 14, 1865, John Wilkes Booth assassinated Abraham Lincoln in his box seat here. Timed-entry tickets let you see the flag-draped site. They also provide entry to the basement museum (displaying Booth's .44 caliber pistol) and to Petersen House (across the street), where Lincoln died. Arrive early because tickets do run out. Reserve online ($6.25 fee) to ensure admittance. The theater still holds performances.

(%202-426-6924; www.fords.org; 511 10th St NW; h9am-4:30pm; mMetro Center)

1Ford’s Theatre CenterMUSEUM

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More exhibits for Lincoln-o-philes. Displays on the 3rd and 4th floors show the assassination’s aftermath and how Lincoln's legacy lives on in current politics and pop culture. The center is operated in conjunction with the Ford's Theatre historic site. You'll need a ticket for entry; get it across the street at the theater box office.

(www.fords.org; 514 10th St NW; h9am-5pm; mMetro Center)

1International Spy MuseumMUSEUM

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If you like those bits in the Bond movies with Q, you’ll like the immensely popular International Spy Museum. All the undercover tools of the trade on display make this place great for (secret) history buffs. Kids love it. The gift shop stocks reverse-mirrored sunglasses and disguised listening devices among its cool gadgets. Lines can be lengthy, so arrive early.

(%202-393-7798; www.spymuseum.org; 800 F St NW; adult/child $22/15; h9am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-6pm Sep-Apr; c; mGallery Pl)

1National Building MuseumMUSEUM

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Devoted to architecture and urban design, the museum is appropriately housed in a magnificent 1887 edifice modeled after the Renaissance-era Palazzo Farnese in Rome. Four stories of ornamented balconies flank the dramatic 316ft-wide atrium and the Corinthian columns rise 75ft high. There's no charge to view the glimmering public areas; the admission fee is for the exhibits, which will please architecture buffs.

(www.nbm.org; 401 F St NW; adult/child $8/5; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; c; mJudiciary Sq)

1ChinatownAREA

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DC’s dinky Chinatown is anchored on H and 7th Sts NW. It was once a major Asian entrepôt, but today most Asians in the Washington area live in the Maryland/Virginia suburbs. That said, Chinatown is still an intriguing browse. Enter through Friendship Arch, the largest single-span arch in the world.

(7th & H Sts NW; mGallery Pl)

1National Museum of Women in the ArtsMUSEUM

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The only US museum exclusively devoted to women’s artwork resides in this Renaissance-Revival mansion. Its collection – 2600 works by almost 700 female artists from 28 countries – moves from Renaissance artists such as Lavinia Fontana to 20th-century works by Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keeffe and Helen Frankenthaler. Placards give feminist interpretations of various art movements. It's free the first Sunday of each month.

(www.nmwa.org; 1250 New York Ave NW; adult/child $10/free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; mMetro Center)

1Touchstone GalleryGALLERY

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Touchstone Gallery exhibits contemporary pieces created by its 45 member artists. Works cover multiple media, including sculpture, painting and the occasional esoteric installation. The bright, welcoming space always has something eye-popping going on.

(www.touchstonegallery.com; 901 New York Ave NW; h11am-6pm Wed-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun; mMetro Center)

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Top Tip

News Source

Want to know what's happening back home? Stroll over to the Newseum, where the front pages of newspapers from around the world – as well as from every US state – are displayed daily by the entrance.

Understand

Tragedy at Ford's Theatre

A Murderous Plan

In 1865, just days after the Confederate Army surrendered, President Abraham Lincoln was gunned down in cold blood.

John Wilkes Booth – Marylander, famous actor and die-hard believer in the Confederate cause – had long harbored ambitions to bring the US leadership to its knees. On April 14, when he stopped by Ford's Theatre to retrieve his mail, he learned the president would be attending a play there that evening. Booth decided to strike.

He met with his coconspirators and hatched a plan: Lewis Powell would kill Secretary of State William Seward at his home, while George Atzerodt killed Vice President Andrew Johnson at his residence and Booth struck Lincoln – all would happen simultaneously around 10pm. As it turns out, only Booth succeeded in his mission.

Assassination & Getaway

That night, as Booth strolled up to Lincoln's box, no one questioned him, as he was a well-known actor at Ford's. He crept inside and barricaded the outer door behind him (Lincoln's bodyguard had headed to a nearby pub at intermission and never returned). Booth knew the play well, and waited to act until he heard the funniest line of the play – '…you sockdologizing old man-trap!' As the audience erupted in laughter, Booth crept behind Lincoln and shot him in the head.

The president's lifeless body slumped forward. Mary Lincoln screamed and Major Henry Rathbone, also in Lincoln's box, tried to seize the assassin. Booth stabbed him and leaped onto the stage, but his foot became tangled in the flag decorating the box; he landed badly, fracturing his leg. Booth stumbled to his feet and held the bloody dagger aloft, saying 'Sic semper tyrannis!' ('Thus to all tyrants!'). He fled the theater, mounted his waiting horse and galloped off to meet his coconspirators.

Death Toll

Lincoln never regained consciousness. He was carried across the street to the Petersen House, where he died early the next morning. In a massive manhunt, Booth was pursued and shot to death 12 days later. His coconspirators were also discovered, brought to trial and executed on July 7.

Eating

5Central Michel RichardMODERN AMERICAN $$$

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Michel Richard is known for his high-end eating establishments in the District, but Central stands out as a special dining experience. It's aimed at hitting a comfort-food sweet spot. You're dining in a four-star bistro where the food is old-school favorites with a twist: lobster burgers, a sinfully complex meatloaf and fried chicken that redefines what fried chicken can be.

(%202-626-0015; www.centralmichelrichard.com; 1001 Pennsylvania Ave NW; mains $19-34; h11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 5-11pm Fri & Sat; mFederal Triangle)

5RasikaINDIAN $$

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Rasika is as cutting edge as Indian food gets. The room resembles a Jaipur palace decorated by a flock of modernist art-gallery curators. Narangi duck is juicy, almost unctuous, and pleasantly nutty thanks to the addition of cashews; the deceptively simple dal (lentils) have the right kiss of sharp fenugreek. Vegans and vegetarians will feel a lot of love here.

(%202-637-1222; www.rasikarestaurant.com; 633 D St NW; mains $14-28; h11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 5-11pm Fri & Sat; v; mArchives)

5Le DiplomateFRENCH $$$

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This charming French bistro is a relative newcomer, but it has skyrocketed to one of the hottest tables in town. Loads of DC celebrities cozy up in the leather banquettes and at the sidewalk tables. They come for an authentic slice of Paris, from the coq au vin (wine-braised chicken) and aromatic baguettes to the vintage curios and nudie photos decorating the bathrooms. You should make a reservation.

(%202-332-3333; www.lediplomatedc.com; 1601 14th St NW; mains $22-31; h5-10pm Mon & Tue, 5-11pm Wed & Thu, 5pm-midnight Fri, 9:30am-midnight Sat, 9:30am-10pm Sun; mU St)

5Hill Country BarbecueBARBECUE $$

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Hill Country is an anomaly for DC – a Texas-themed, cowboy-hat-filled joint that doesn't feel corny; a barbecue spot that serves excellent smoked meat; and a live-music venue that hosts great honky-tonk shows. From May through August, it operates a popular alfresco outpost on the National Building Museum's lawn. Grab a hay-bale seat and join the fun from 4pm to 9pm Thursday to Saturday.

(%202-556-2050; www.hillcountrywdc.com; 410 7th St NW; mains $13-22; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; mArchives)

5MerziINDIAN $

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For cheap Indian food – especially cheap Indian vegetarian – in downtown DC, this is where to be. Merzi's setup is simple: choose a base (roti, rice, salad etc), a protein (chicken, lamb, veg etc), then add sauces, chutney and such. Your wallet will barely feel lighter for the visit.

(%202-656-3794; www.merzi.com; 415 7th St NW; mains $7-9; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; v; mArchives, Gallery Pl)

5EstadioSPANISH $$

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Estadio buzzes with a low-lit, date-night vibe. The tapas menu (which is the focus) is as deep as an ocean trench. There are three variations of Iberico ham and a delicious foie gras, scrambled egg and truffle open-faced sandwich. Wash it down with some traditional calimocho (red wine and coke). No reservations after 6pm, which usually means a wait at the bar.

(%202-319-1404; www.estadio-dc.com; 1520 14th St NW; tapas $5-15; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun, 11:30am-2pm Fri-Sun; mU St)

5ZaytinyaMEDITERRANEAN $$

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One of the culinary crown jewels of chef José Andrés, ever-popular Zaytinya serves superb Greek, Turkish and Lebanese meze (small plates) in a long, noisy dining room with soaring ceilings and all-glass walls.

(%202-638-0800; www.zaytinya.com; 701 9th St NW; mezze $8-13; h11:30am-11:30pm Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun & Mon; v; mGallery Pl)

Zaytinya

Powers and Crewe ©

5Matchbox PizzaPIZZA $$

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The pizza here has a devout following of gastronomes and the restaurant's warm, exposed-brick interior typically is packed. What’s so good about it? Fresh ingredients, a thin, blistered crust baked by angels and more fresh ingredients. Oh, and the beer list rocks, with Belgian ales and hopped-up craft brews flowing from the taps. Reserve ahead to avoid a wait.

(%202-289-4441; www.matchboxchinatown.com; 713 H St NW; pizzas $13-15; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11:30pm Fri, 10am-11:30pm Sat, 10am-10:30pm Sun; c; mGallery Pl)

5Astro Doughnuts & Fried ChickenAMERICAN $

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Eleven doughnut flavors and fried bird: what more do you need? The chicken is the winner here, cooked crisp with buttermilk or hot Sriracha sauce, though the crème brûlée doughnut also awes as you crunch into the sugar crust and strike the creamy center. Two tables flank the door, but Astro is mostly for takeout. The chicken becomes available at 11:30am (11am weekends).

(www.astrodoughnuts.com; 1308 G St NW; doughnuts $2.50-3, chicken $6-8; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun; mMetro Center)

5DaikayaJAPANESE $

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Daikaya offers two options. Downstairs it's a casual ramen noodle shop, where locals swarm in and slurp with friends in the slick wood booths. Upstairs it's a sake-pouring Japanese izakaya (tavern), with rice-bowl lunches and fishy small plates for dinner. Note the upstairs closes between lunch and dinner (between 2pm and 5pm).

(%202-589-1600; www.daikaya.com; 705 6th St NW; mains $12-14; h11:30am-10pm Sun & Mon, to 11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mGallery Pl)

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Local Life

Veranda on P

Lots of locals stroll over for the stuffed grape leaves and other good-value Mediterranean fare at Veranda on P ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-234-6870; www.verandaonp.com; 1100 P St NW; mains $12-21; h5pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, 5pm-1:30am Fri, 10:30am-1:30am Sat, 10:30am-midnight Sun; mMt Vernon Sq). The interior of this homey little nook brings to mind an Ionian island, but most folks prefer the outdoor eponymous veranda, which sits amid the handsome red-brick townhouses of Logan Circle.

Drinking

6ChurchkeyBAR

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Coppery, mod-industrial Churchkey glows with hipness. Fifty beers flow from the taps, including five brain-walloping, cask-aged ales. If none of those please you, another 500 types of brew are available by bottle (including gluten-free suds). Churchkey is the upstairs counterpart to Birch & Barley, a popular nouveau comfort-food restaurant, and you can order much of its menu at the bar.

(www.churchkeydc.com; 1337 14th St NW; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-1am Sun; mMcPherson Sq)

6A&D BarBAR

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Neighborhood hipsters rally under the pressed-tin ceiling and dangling vintage lights at this comfy tavern. A&D takes cocktails seriously, shaking and stirring housemade ingredients and local spirits, and there's a small but solid beer list. Trendy pub snacks help soak up the booze, or carry out from Sundevich, the bar's sibling shop of global sandwiches located next door (in the alley).

(www.andbardc.com; 1314 9th St NW; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mMt Vernon Sq)

6RFD WashingtonBAR

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Compared with other bars that have a wildly extensive beer menu, RFD has a slick, corporate feel, but the service is fast, it’s rarely out of any one brand and the actual drinking space is huge. More than 300 brews are available, including many locally made elixirs (try DC Brau). RFD gets busy when the nearby Verizon Center hosts an event.

(www.lovethebeer.com; 810 7th St NW; h11am-2am; mGallery Pl)

Entertainment

3Shakespeare Theatre CompanyTHEATER

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The nation’s foremost Shakespeare company presents masterful works by the Bard, as well as plays by George Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, Ibsen, Eugene O’Neill and other greats. The season spans about a half-dozen productions annually, plus a free summer Shakespeare series on-site for two weeks in late August.

(%202-547-1122; www.shakespearetheatre.org; 450 7th St NW; mArchives)

3Studio TheatreTHEATER

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This contemporary four-theater complex has been staging Pulitzer Prize–winning and premiere plays for more than 35 years. It cultivates a lot of local actors.

(www.studiotheatre.org; 1501 14th St NW; mDupont Circle)

3Capitol StepsCOMEDY

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This singing troupe claims to be the only group in America that tries to be funnier than Congress. It’s composed of current and former congressional staffers, so they know their political stuff, although sometimes it can be overtly corny. The satirical, bipartisan jokes poke fun at both sides of the spectrum.

(www.capsteps.com; Ronald Reagan Bldg, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave NW; tickets $40.50; hshows 7:30pm Fri & Sat; mFederal Triangle)

3Woolly Mammoth Theatre CompanyTHEATER

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Woolly Mammoth is the edgiest of DC’s experimental groups. Fifteen-dollar ‘stampede’ seats are available at the box office two hours before performances, assuming the show is not a sell-out.

(%202-393-3939; www.woollymammoth.net; 641 D St NW; mArchives)

3National TheatreTHEATER

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Washington’s oldest continuously operating theater shows flashy Broadway musicals and big-name productions. A lottery for $25 tickets (cash only) takes place two hours prior to every show; submit your name at the box office. Saturday mornings feature free performances for children at 9:30am and 11am. Grown-ups get their free show (a classic-movie screening) Monday evenings from September through May.

(%202-628-6161; www.thenationaldc.org; 1321 Pennsylvania Ave NW; mMetro Center)

3Washington CapitalsHOCKEY

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Washington’s rough-and-tumble pro hockey team skates at the Verizon Center from October through April.

(http://capitals.nhl.com; 601 F St NW; mGallery Pl)

3Washington WizardsBASKETBALL

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Washington's winning pro basketball team plays at the Verizon Center from October through April.

(www.nba.com/wizards; 601 F St NW; mGallery Pl)

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Top Tip

Pre-Theater Menus

Many restaurants in the neighborhood offer pre-theater menus. This generally means a three-course meal for around $35, offered before 6:30pm. Rasika and Central Michel Richard are among those that offer such deals.

Dupont Circle

Dupont Circle is city life at its best, offering flash new restaurants, hip bars, cafe society and nifty bookshops. The neighborhood has Washington’s highest concentration of embassies, many set in historic mansions. It’s also the heart of the GLBT community. A few overlooked museums are here, but mostly Dupont is about wandering around and soaking up the urban-cool vibe.

Dupont Circle

Danita Delimont/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Get cultured in under-the-radar museums: the Phillips Collection offers Renoirs and other modern art, while the National Geographic Society Museum often has intriguing exhibits in its worldly galleries.

R Grab an epicurean sandwich at Bub & Pop's or a casual meal at Zorba's Cafe. It'll be good fuel for a mosey along eye-popping Embassy Row. Afterward poke around Second Story Books and Tabletop, then hit happy hour at Bier Baron.

N Have dinner in one of the sublime international restaurants. Get in line at Little Serow, or hopefully you reserved at Obelisk or Bistrot du Coin. As the night rolls on, take advantage of Dupont's active nightlife scene. Shake a tail with the beautiful people under the chandeliers at 18th Street Lounge or at a wild dance party at Cobalt. Those looking for a more relaxed vibe can sip cocktails at Firefly Bar.

For a local’s day in Dupont Circle, see (Click here).

l  Local Life

A Night Out in Dupont Circle

x  Best of Washington, DC

Eating

Duke's Grocery

Little Serow

Bistrot du Coin

Dolcezza

Bars & Clubs

Tabard Inn Bar

18th Street Lounge

Cafe Citron

Gay & Lesbian

Kramerbooks

JR's

Cobalt

Getting There

m Metro Dupont Circle (Red Line) for most points. Use the Q St exit for destinations north of P St and the 19th St exit for destinations south. Farragut North (Red Line) is closer to M St.

g Bus Catch the DC Circulator’s Dupont–Georgetown–Rosslyn bus at 19th and N Sts (use the south exit from the Dupont Metro).

1 Sights

1Embassy Row  D3

2Phillips Collection  D2

3National Geographic Society Museum  G5

4Foundry Gallery  F4

5Studio Gallery  D2

5 Eating

6Little Serow  H3

7Bistrot du Coin  D1

8Komi  H3

9Malaysia Kopitiam  F5

10Obelisk  D3

11Blue Duck Tavern  B5

12Hank's Oyster Bar  H3

13Bub & Pop's  F5

6 Drinking

14Firefly Bar  E4

15Filter  E1

16Bier Baron  C3

17Cobalt  H2

1818th Street Lounge  F5

19Cafe Citron  F4

3 Entertainment

20DC Improv  F5

7 Shopping

21Second Story Books  E3

22Tabletop  E2

23Proper Topper  F4

24Beadazzled  E3

Sights

1Embassy RowARCHITECTURE

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How quickly can you leave the country? It takes about five minutes; just stroll north along Massachusetts Ave from Dupont Circle (the actual traffic circle) and you pass roughly 50 embassies housed in mansions that range from elegant to imposing to discreet. Technically they're on foreign soil, as embassy grounds are the embassy nation's territory.

(www.embassy.org; Massachusetts Ave NW btwn Observatory & Dupont Circles NW; mDupont Circle)

1Phillips CollectionMUSEUM

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The first modern-art museum in the country (opened in 1921) houses a small but exquisite collection of European and American works. Renoir’s Luncheon of the Boating Party is a highlight, along with pieces by Gauguin, Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso and many other greats. The intimate rooms, set in a restored mansion, put you unusually close to the artworks. The permanent collection is free on weekdays.

(www.phillipscollection.org; 1600 21st St NW; Sat & Sun $10, Tue-Fri free, ticketed exhibitions per day $12; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 8:30pm Thu, 11am-6pm Sun, chamber-music series 4pm Sun Oct-May; mDupont Circle)

1National Geographic Society MuseumMUSEUM

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The museum at National Geographic Society headquarters can’t compete with the Smithsonian’s more extensive offerings, but it can be worth a stop, depending on what’s showing. Exhibits are drawn from the society’s well-documented expeditions to the far corners of the earth, and they change every three months or so. In spring and fall, the on-site theater shows free documentary films on Tuesdays at noon.

(%202-857-7700; www.ngmuseum.org; 1145 17th St NW; adult/child $11/7; h10am-6pm; mFarragut North)

1Foundry GalleryGALLERY

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A nonprofit member-run organization, this gallery features a diverse range of super-contemporary art made in the last decade – mediums include painting, sculpture and drawings – all created by local artists. Openings are held on various Fridays.

(www.foundrygallery.org; 1314 18th St NW; hnoon-6pm Wed-Sun; mDupont Circle)

1Studio GalleryGALLERY

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Studio Gallery shows contemporary works by 35 emerging, DC-area artists. Paintings, sculpture, mixed media and video are represented. The relatively small space spans the main floor and basement, with exhibits that always feel fresh. Openings are held on the first Friday of the month.

(www.studiogallerydc.com; 2108 R St NW; h1-7pm Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat; mDupont Circle)

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Local Life

Dupont Circle Market

The Dupont Circle Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.freshfarmmarkets.org; 1560 20th St NW; h9am-2pm Sun Apr-Dec, 10am-1pm Jan-Mar; mDupont Circle) teems with locals on Sunday mornings. It’s part of the Fresh Farm Market program, one of the leaders of the Chesapeake Bay region local-food movement. Browse stalls selling rosemary-salt bread, goat brie, bluefish empanadas and fruits and veggies galore.

Eating

5Little SerowTHAI $$$

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Little Serow has no phone and no reservations. It only allows walk-in groups of four or less, and you'll be lining up around the block. And what for? Superlative northern Thai cuisine. The single-option menu changes by the week. You might get chicken livers and long peppers, or shrimp paste, eggplant and chilies. Every dish comes with mountains of fresh herbs.

(www.littleserow.com; 1511 17th St NW; fixed menu per person $45; h5:30-10pm Tue-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; mDupont Circle)

5Bistrot du CoinFRENCH $$

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The lively and much-loved Bistro du Coin is a neighborhood favorite for roll-up-your-sleeves, working-class French fare. The kitchen sends out consistently good onion soup, classic steak-frites (grilled steak and french fries), cassoulet, open-faced sandwiches and nine varieties of its famous moules (mussels). Regional wines from around the motherland accompany the food by the glass, carafe and bottle.

(%202-234-6969; www.bistrotducoin.com; 1738 Connecticut Ave NW; mains $14-24; h11:30am-11pm Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; mDupont Circle)

5KomiFUSION $$$

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There is an admirable simplicity to Komi’s changing menu, which is rooted in Greece and influenced by everything – primarily genius. Suckling pig for two; scallops and truffles; a roasted baby goat. Komi’s fairy tale of a dining space doesn’t take groups larger than four, and you need to reserve way in advance – like, now.

(%202-332-9200; www.komirestaurant.com; 1509 17th St NW; set menu $135; h5-9:30pm Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; mDupont Circle)

5ObeliskITALIAN $$$

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Obelisk pushes the boundaries of what can be done in an Italian cucina. The small and narrow dining room makes you almost feel like you're eating at someone’s kitchen table. The set-course Italian feasts are lovingly prepared with first-rate ingredients; the antipasti in particular is a revelation. The menu changes daily, but doesn’t give you much selection (picky eaters should call ahead). Making a reservation is recommended.

(%202-872-1180; http://www.obeliskdc.com; 2029 P St NW; 5-course menu $75-85; h6-10pm Tue-Sat; mDupont Circle)

5Blue Duck TavernAMERICAN $$$

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The Blue Duck tries to create a rustic kitchen ambience in the midst of one of M St’s uber-urbanized concrete corridors. The menu draws from farms across the country, mixing mains such as a pork terrine and trotter croquette made from pigs in Virginia, and crab cakes sourced from Louisiana.

(%202-419-6755; www.blueducktavern.com; 1201 24th St NW; mains $20-36; h6:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat; v; mDupont Circle)

5Hank’s Oyster BarSEAFOOD $$$

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DC has several oyster bars but minichain Hank's is our favorite, mixing power-player muscle with good-old-boy ambience. As you'd expect, the oyster menu is extensive and excellent; there are always at least four varieties on hand. Quarters are cramped, and you often have to wait for a table – nothing a sake oyster bomb won’t fix.

(%202-462 4265; www.hanksoysterbar.com; 1624 Q St NW; mains $20-30; h11:30am-3pm & 5:30-10pm Sun-Tue, to 11pm Wed-Sat; mDupont Circle)

5Bub & Pop'sSANDWICHES $

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A chef tired of the fine-dining rat race opened this gourmet sandwich shop with his parents. The meatballs, pickles, mayonnaise, roasted pork and other ingredients are made from scratch in-house. Congenial mom Arlene rules the counter and can answer questions about any of it. The sandwiches are enormous, best consumed hot off the press in the bright aqua and red room.

(www.bubandpops.com; 1815 M St NW; sandwiches $7-13; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat; mDupont Circle)

Sandwich from Bub & Pop’s

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

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Local Life

Zorba's Cafe

Generous portions of moussaka and souvlaki, as well as pitchers of Rolling Rock beer, make family-run Zorba's Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-387-8555; www.zorbascafe.com; 1612 20th St NW; mains $13-16; h11am-11:30pm Mon-Sat, to 10:30pm Sun; c; mDupont Circle) one of DC’s best bargain haunts. On warm days the outdoor patio is packed with locals. With the bouzouki music playing in the background, you can almost imagine you're in the Greek islands.

Drinking

618th Street LoungeCLUB

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Chandeliers, velvet sofas, antique wallpaper and a ridiculously good-looking, dance-loving crowd adorn this multifloored mansion. The DJs – spinning funk, soul and Brazilian beats – are phenomenal, which is not surprising given Eric Hilton (of Thievery Corporation) is co-owner. The lack of a sign on the door proclaims the club’s exclusivity. No denim or sneakers allowed. Cover charges range from $10 to $20.

(www.eighteenthstreetlounge.com; 1212 18th St NW; h5:30pm-2am Tue-Fri, 9:30pm-3am Sat, 9pm-2am Sun; mDupont Circle)

6Cafe CitronCLUB

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Cafe Citron is one of DC’s most popular Latin music clubs (in fairness, it plays everything, but the focus is salsa, samba et al). Girls dance; guys watch; the hours tick on. Late night it morphs to an all-dance crowd shaking it to megaloud music. Nights out here can be fun, if only to observe the above unfolding epic pick-up scene.

(www.cafecitrondc.com; 1343 Connecticut Ave NW; h4-11pm Mon, to 2am Tue-Fri, to 3am Sat; mDupont Circle)

6Firefly BarBAR

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Firefly is a restaurant first – the Hotel Madera’s restaurant, to be precise – but we’re not listing it for those merits. We can say it’s one of the coolest bars in Dupont, decked out with its surreal, magically happy ‘firefly trees,’ all candlelit and reminiscent of childhood summer evenings, and romantic as hell to boot. The cocktail menu is a glorious thing.

(www.firefly-dc.com; 1310 New Hampshire Ave NW; h4-11pm; mDupont Circle)

6FilterCAFE

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Set on a quiet street, Filter is a jewel-box-sized cafe with a tiny front patio, a hipsterish laptop-toting crowd and, most importantly, great coffee. Those who seek caffeinated perfection can get a decent flat white here.

(www.filtercoffeehouse.com; 1726 20th St NW; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun; W; mDupont Circle)

6Bier BaronBAR

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Enter the Bier Baron's underground lair and prepare your liver for an onslaught of brews. The dark, pubby bar taps 50 different beers – emphasis on local and unusual craft suds – and offers 500 more bottled beers from around the world. Aim for a corner seat, order a sampler and settle in for an impressive taste tour.

(www.bierbarondc.com; 1523 22nd St NW; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri, 3pm-2am Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun; mDupont Circle)

6CobaltGAY

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Featuring lots of hair product and faux-tanned gym bodies, Cobalt tends to gather a well-dressed late-20s to 30-something crowd who come for fun (but loud!) dance parties throughout the week. The time-hallowed dance club is on the 3rd floor; the venue also has a restaurant on the 1st floor and a lounge on the 2nd floor.

(www.cobaltdc.com; 1639 R St NW; h5pm-2am; mDupont Circle)

Entertainment

3DC ImprovCOMEDY

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DC Improv is comedy in the more traditional sense, featuring stand-up by comics from Comedy Central, Saturday Night Live and HBO, among others. It also offers workshops for those who would like to hone their laugh-getting skills.

(www.dcimprov.com; 1140 Connecticut Ave NW; tickets from $15; hclosed Mon; mFarragut North)

Shopping

7Second Story BooksBOOKS, MUSIC

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Packed with dusty secondhand tomes, atmospheric Second Story also sells used CDs (mostly jazz and classical), antiquarian books and old sheet music. The prices are decent and the choices are broad (particularly in the realm of history and Americana). Be sure to browse the sidewalk bins, which have books from 50¢ to $2.

(www.secondstorybooks.com; 2000 P St NW; h10am-10pm; mDupont Circle)

7TabletopHOMEWARES

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Also known as the best little design store in Dupont, Tabletop is evidence that DC is a lot more stylish than some give it credit for. The whimsical candles, postmodern wine carafes and vintage table linens are sure to impress your artsy and creative friends.

(www.tabletopdc.com; 1608 20th St NW; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mDupont Circle)

7Proper TopperACCESSORIES

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Fedoras, panama hats, short- and wide-brimmed straw hats – they’re all for sale at the Proper Topper, along with children’s books, wallets, jewelry, scarves and a few snazzy black dresses.

(www.propertopper.com; 1350 Connecticut Ave NW; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mDupont Circle)

7BeadazzledJEWELRY

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Crafty types and jewelry lovers should not miss this specialty shop, which carries all things small and stringable. The selection from around the world ranges from 5¢ clay doohickeys to expensive pearls. Helpful staff will tell you how to put them together, and classes are offered on weekends (call to register).

(%202-265-2323; www.beadazzled.net; 1507 Connecticut Ave NW; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mDupont Circle)

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Local Life

A Night Out in Dupont Circle

Dupont gets busy once the sun goes down. Young professionals of all stripes and persuasions gather with friends to drink, dine and sing karaoke. They play Hungry Hungry Hippos, knock back vodka shots, indulge in late-night gelato and curries, and flirt with each other in the 24-hour bookshop on weekends.

1 Caviar at Russia House

Take a Break Russophiles flock to faded but elegant Russia House ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.russiahouselounge.com; 1800 Connecticut Ave NW; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat; mDupont Circle), with its brassy chandeliers, candlelit chambers and stupefying vodka selection. It’s a great spot for conversation and caviar – or hearty continental classics such as pelmeni (dumplings) and shashlik (shish kebab).

2 Board Room's Game Stash

Take a Break Grab a beer, settle in at a table and crush your opponent at Hungry Hungry Hippos. Or summon spirits with a Ouija board. Board Room ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.boardroomdc.com; 1737 Connecticut Ave NW; h4pm-2am Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-2am Sun; mDupont Circle) lets you flash back to childhood via stacks of board games. Battleship, Risk, Operation – name it, and it's here to rent for $2 to $4.

3 Gelato at Dolcezza

Take a Break DC’s best gelateria, Dolcezza ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.dolcezzagelato.com; 1704 Connecticut Ave NW; gelato $5-8; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, 7am-11pm Fri, 8am-11pm Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; W; mDupont Circle) scoops more than a dozen creamy flavors. They're not your everyday spoonful, with varieties such as lemon ricotta cardamom and strawberry tarragon. Don't be timid – they're divine.

4 Worldly Photos

Take a Break At Claude Taylor Photography ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.travelphotography.net; 1627 Connecticut Ave NW; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; mDupont Circle), the local lensman sells his glossy travel shots featuring people and landscapes from around the world. The prints come in all shapes and sizes, starting at around $20.

5 24-Hour Books

Take a Break Open round-the-clock on weekends, Kramerbooks ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kramers.com; 1517 Connecticut Ave NW; h7:30am-1am Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat; mDupont Circle) – along with its attached Afterwords Cafe and bar – is as much a spot for schmoozing as for shopping. Grab a meal, have a pint and flirt with comely strangers (the store is a fabled pick-up spot for straights and gays).

6 Curry at Duke's Grocery

Take a Break Duke's Grocery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-733-5623; www.dukesgrocery.com; 1513 17th St NW; mains $11-16; h5:30-10pm Mon, 8am-10pm Tue & Wed, to 1am Thu & Fri, 11am-1am Sat, to 10pm Sun; W; mDupont Circle) takes its cue from East London's corner cafes and curry houses. Eggs and toast for breakfast, lamb kofta (meatballs) for dinner – a chalkboard lists the daily-changing menu. The convivial tables spread over two floors amid mismatched armchairs and vintage photos.

7 Karaoke at JR's

Take a Break Gay hangout JR's ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jrsbar-dc.com; 1519 17th St NW; h4pm-2am Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, 1pm-2am Sun; mDupont Circle) is usually packed. While it's frequented by 20- and 30-something guys in button-down shirts, the dark-wood and stained-glass bar is welcoming to all. Show-tunes karaoke is great fun on Monday nights.

8 Tabard Inn Cocktails

Take a Break The Tabard Inn Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tabardinn.com; 1739 N St NW; h11:30am-1:30am Mon-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun; mDupont Circle) is in a hotel, but plenty of locals come to swirl an old-fashioned or gin and tonic in the wood-beamed, lodge-like lounge. On warm nights, maneuver for an outdoor table on the ivy-clad patio.

l

Local Life

Exploring Jazzy U Street & Shaw

In the early 1900s, U St was one of the most vibrant African American districts in the country. Duke Ellington was born here and cut his chops in local clubs. Today U St and Shaw (the surrounding area) are DC's 'it' spot. Poetry slams, soul food and, of course, Duke's old jazz hangouts make it a sweet slice of DC life.

Getting There

m Green or Yellow Line to U St (for places around U St and 13th St NW) and Shaw-Howard U (for places around T St and 7th St NW).

1 Open Mike at Busboys & Poets

Busboys & Poets ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-387-7638; www.busboysandpoets.com; 2021 14th St NW; mains $11-21; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, 8am-2am Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; mU St) (named for a Langston Hughes poem) is one of U St's linchpins. Locals gather for coffee, wi-fi and a progressive vibe (and attached bookstore) that make San Francisco feel conservative. The big event is the open-mike poetry reading every Tuesday from 9pm to 11pm.

2 Half-Smokes at Ben's Chili Bowl

Despite visits by presidents, movie stars and busloads of tourists, Ben's Chili Bowl ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.benschilibowl.com; 1213 U St; mains $5-10; h6am-2am Mon-Thu, 6am-4am Fri, 7am-4am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun; mU St) remains a real neighborhood spot, with locals downing half-smokes (a meatier, smokier version of the hot dog, usually slathered in the namesake chili) and gossiping over sweet iced tea.

3 Jazz at Bohemian Caverns

Back in the day, Bohemian Caverns ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bohemiancaverns.com; 2001 11th St NW; admission $7-22; h7pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 7:30pm-2am Fri & Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun; mU St) hosted the likes of Miles Davis, John Coltrane and Duke Ellington. Today the timeless jazz club stages a mix of youthful renegades and soulful legends. Monday night's swingin' house band draws an all-ages crowd.

4 Soul Food at Oohh's & Aahh's

Un-notch the belt: the cornbread, collard greens, meatloaf and other soul-food dishes at Oohh's & Aahh's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-667-7142; www.oohhsnaahhs.com; 1005 U St NW; mains $14-22; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun; mU St) come in enormous portions. Not that hungry? Stop in for a piece of hummingbird (banana-pineapple) cake. Sit at the counter and immerse in the before-U-St-became-gentrified crowd.

5 Beer at Right Proper

As if the artwork – a chalked mural of the National Zoo's giant pandas with laser eyes destroying downtown DC – wasn't enough, Right Proper Brewing Co ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rightproperbrewery.com; 624 T St NW; h5-11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; mShaw-Howard U) makes sublime ales in a building where Duke Ellington used to play pool. The brewery is Shaw's happy place.

6 Big Names at Howard Theatre

Built in 1910, Howard Theatre ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thehowardtheatre.com; 620 T St NW; mShaw-Howard U) was the top address when U St was known as 'Black Broadway.' Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday and other famed names lit the marquee. Now big-name comedians, blues and jazz acts fill the house.

7 Ethiopian at Zenebech

The area around 9th and U Sts is known as Little Ethiopia for its slew of shops and restaurants. Hole-in-the-wall Zenebech ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-667-4700; www.zenebechdc.com; 608 T St NW; mains $10-12; h9am-11pm; v; mShaw-Howard U) is a bit off the path, but it prepares terrific injera (spongy bread) and hot-spiced wats (stews).

Adams Morgan

Adams Morgan has long been Washington's fun, nightlife-driven neighborhood. It's also a global village of sorts. The result is a raucous mash-up centered on 18th St NW. Vintage boutiques, record shops and ethnic eats poke up between thumping clubs. Come weekend nights, the scene really explodes with the young and exuberant on a seemingly endless bar crawl.

Adams Morgan

Stephen J Boitano/Getty Images ©

The Sights in a Day

M Spend a relaxing morning reading, drinking coffee and fueling up on omelets and pancakes at Tryst or the Diner. On Sunday mornings the drag-queen brunch at Perrys is the place to be.

R Stop into the District of Columbia Arts Center and see what's showing in the gallery. Then spend the afternoon poking around the shops: Meeps for vintage wear, Crooked Beat for vinyl, Brass Knob for salvaged building fixtures. Sate a sweet tooth at CakeRoom or hit happy hour at Millie & Al's.

N Hoo-wee, there's lots to choose from come nighttime. Dan's Cafe is a vintage, strong-pouring dive bar. Black Squirrel is more mellow with microbrews. For live music Madam's Organ puts on riotous blues and rock bands, while Bukom Cafe goes the reggae route. Fulfill late-night munchies at Amsterdam Falafelshop or Julia's Empanadas.

For a local’s day in Adams Morgan, see (Click here).

x  Best of Washington, DC

Shopping

Brass Knob

Idle Time Books

Crooked Beat Records

Live Music

Madam's Organ

Bukom Cafe

Eating

Amsterdam Falafelshop

Bars & Clubs

Dan's Cafe

Millie & Al's

Gay & Lesbian

Perrys

For Kids

Diner

Getting There

m Metro For most of 18th St, use the Woodley Park (Red Line) station. For points on 18th St south of Kalorama Rd, Dupont Circle (Red Line) is closer. Each station is a 15-minute walk away.

g Bus The DC Circulator runs from the Woodley Park Metro to the corner of 18th and Calvert Sts.

1 Sights

1District of Columbia Arts Center  C2

5 Eating

2Diner  C2

3Amsterdam Falafelshop  C2

4Perrys  B2

5Cashion's Eat Place  B2

6Julia's Empanadas  C2

7CakeRoom  C4

6 Drinking

8Dan's Cafe  C3

9Chief Ike's Mambo Room  D1

10Black Squirrel  C2

11Dr Clock's Nowhere Bar  C3

12Millie & Al's  C2

3 Entertainment

13Madam's Organ  C2

14Bukom Cafe  C2

7 Shopping

15Crooked Beat Records  C4

16Meeps  C4

17Brass Knob  C3

18Idle Time Books  C2

Sights

1District of Columbia Arts CenterARTS CENTER

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The grassroots DCAC offers emerging artists a space to showcase their work. The 750-sq-ft gallery features rotating visual-arts exhibits, while plays and other theatrical productions take place in the theater. The gallery is free and worth popping into to see what's showing.

(DCAC; www.dcartscenter.org; 2438 18th St NW; h2-7pm Tue-Sun; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

Eating

5DinerAMERICAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The Diner serves hearty comfort food, any time of the day or night. It's ideal for wee-hour breakfast scarf-downs, weekend Bloody-Mary brunches (if you don't mind crowds) or any time you want unfussy, well-prepared American fare. Omelets, fat pancakes, mac and cheese, grilled Portobello sandwiches and burgers hit the tables with aplomb. It's a good spot for kids, too.

(www.dinerdc.com; 2453 18th St NW; mains $9-17; h24hr; c; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

5Amsterdam FalafelshopMIDDLE EASTERN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Cheap and cheerful, fast and delicious, the Falafelshop rocks the world of vegetarians and those questing for late-night munchies. Bowl up to the counter, order your falafel sandwich, then take it to the topping bar and pile on pickles, tabbouleh, olives and 20 other items. Take away, or dribble away at the scattering of stools and tables.

(www.falafelshop.com; 2425 18th St NW; items $6-7; h11am-midnight Sun-Mon, to 2:30am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; v; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

Falafel sandwich and fries at Amsterdam Falafelshop

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

5PerrysASIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You can munch sushi at Perrys, but it's the creative fusion fare that really deserves your tongue's attention. Eat in the attractive lounge or under the stars. Sunday brings something entirely different to the table: drag-queen brunch. The megapopular campy show plus buffet is a scene to behold. Get in line by 9:30am; the rest of the week Perrys takes reservations.

(%202-234-6218; www.perrysadamsmorgan.com; 1811 Columbia Rd NW; mains $14-25; h5:30-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 5:30-11:30pm Fri, 11am-3pm & 5:30-11:30pm Sat, 10am-3pm & 5:30-10:30pm Sun; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

5Cashion's Eat PlaceAMERICAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With an original menu and inviting decor, this little bistro is lauded as one of the city's best. The mismatched furniture and flower boxes create an unpretentious setting to enjoy rich dishes such as scallion-cream-sauced crab and bison rib eye with wild mushroom bordelaise sauce. The bar serves fancy small plates, such as pork-cheek quesadillas, till 1am on Friday and Saturday.

(%202-797-1819; www.cashionseatplace.com; 1819 Columbia Rd NW; mains $22-29; h5:30-10pm Tue, 5:30-11pm Wed-Fri, 10:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-11pm Sat & Sun; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

5Julia's EmpanadasLATIN AMERICAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A frequent winner in DC's 'best late-night eats' polls, Julia's stuffs its dough bombs with chorizo, Jamaican beef and curry, spinach and more. Flavors peak if you've been drinking. The little chain has a handful of takeout stores around town. Cash only.

(www.juliasempanadas.com; 2452 18th St NW; empanadas from $4; h11am-2am; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

5CakeRoomBAKERY $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Ogle the glass cases bursting with creamy-frosted cakes and pies. The banoffee pie (a sublime banana-toffee mix) and date cupcake are the sweets to beat. Fadi, the baker, is from Jordan, and he invites guests to linger on the comfy couches and armchairs upstairs in the old-timey shop.

(%202-450-4462; www.facebook.com/cakeroombakery; 2006 18th St NW; baked goods $2-5; h9am-9pm Mon-Thu, 9am-10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-9pm Sun; W; mDupont Circle)

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Local Life

Tryst

The couches, armchairs and bookshelves, and the light flooding through streetside windows, lure patrons so faithful they probably should pay rent at Tryst ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trystdc.com; 2459 18th St NW; breakfast & sandwiches $6-10; h6:30am-midnight Mon-Thu, 6:30am-3am Fri & Sat, 7am-midnight Sun; W; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan). They crowd in for the coffee, stellar omelet and waffle breakfasts, and creative sandwiches. Come nightfall, baristas become bartenders, and the cafe hosts jazzy live music several nights a week.

Drinking

6Millie & Al'sBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This comfortably worn dive is an Adams Morgan mainstay, famous for its $2 drafts, Jell-o shots and hit-the-spot pizza (best consumed in that order). M&A has always been, and probably will always be, a yuppie bar with a frat-house flavor – the kind of place where you can expect to be hit on and have beer spilled on you in the same night.

(www.millienals.com; 2440 18th St NW; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

6Dan's CafeBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This is one of DC's great dive bars. The interior looks sort of like an evil Elks Club, all unironically old-school 'art,' cheap paneling and dim lights barely illuminating the unapologetic slumminess. It's famed for its whopping, mix-it-yourself drinks, where you get a flask of booze, can of soda and bucket of ice for barely $12. Cash only.

(2315 18th St NW; h7pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

6Chief Ike's Mambo RoomBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Ike's is a fine place to get a good Latin groove going…while surrounded by leering murals of psychedelic voodoo zombies. There are punk and hip-hop clubs upstairs if you tire of monster movie mambo, but they don't quite match the awesomeness of the Mexican Day of the Dead funfest on the bottom floor. Occasionally there's an $8 cover charge (depending on the DJ/band).

(www.chiefikes.com; 1725 Columbia Rd NW; h5pm-2am; mColumbia Heights)

6Black SquirrelBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Sometimes in Adams Morgan all you want is a good friggin' beer – no suds in plastic cups, no Jaeger shots – just a succulent microbrew. The warm, exposed-brick Squirrel stocks more than 100 unusual ales, from Mexican-spiced elixirs to abbey-style triple brews. Hungry? Pair them with the gastropub grub, such as the Gruyère-smothered, house-ground burgers.

(www.blacksquirreldc.com; 2427 18th St NW; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

6Dr Clock's Nowhere BarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The young and frisky seek out Dr Clock's for the offbeat Star Wars meets Soviet-style decor, the cheap local beers and absinthe cocktails, and the solid DJs spinning weird techno and house music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights (no cover charge). The bar hides above the Rendezvous Lounge.

(2nd fl, 2226 18th St NW; h6pm-2am; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

y

Top Tip

Late-Night Bites

Adams Morgan is famed for its late-night eateries. Lots of people come here postparty on weekend nights to soak up the booze. Huge slices of pizza are a traditional snack; they're sold everywhere around the neighborhood and are uniformly greasy and delicious after several libations.

Entertainment

3Madam's OrganLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Playboy magazine once named Madam's Organ one of its favorite bars in America. The ramshackle place has been around forever, and its nightly blues, rock and bluegrass shows can be downright riot-inducing. There is a raunchy bar-dancing scene and funky decor with stuffed animals and bizarre paintings on the 1st floor. The rooftop deck is more mellow. The big-boobed mural outside is a classic.

(www.madamsorgan.com; 2461 18th St NW; admission $5-10; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

3Bukom CafeLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Killer reggae and highlife bands take the stage nightly at Bukom. Be prepared for sore but happy hips as you join the mix of West African immigrants and ex–Peace Corps types who've learned their dancing chops on the continent. The music starts at 10pm (a bit earlier weekdays); there's no cover charge. Come early and sample the cafe's chicken yassa and other West African fare.

(www.bukomcafe.com; 2442 18th St NW; h4:30pm-2am; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

Shopping

7Crooked Beat RecordsMUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Go underground to enter this all-vinyl shop, the sort of place that in the '90s could have been its own movie about a bunch of aimless 20-somethings finding love amid stacks of indie, hip-hop and soul…you get the idea. The folks behind the counter are eminently down to earth, and if they don't have a certain record, they'll find you somewhere that does.

(www.crookedbeat.com; 2116 18th St NW; h1:30-8pm Mon, noon-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mDupont Circle)

7Brass KnobANTIQUES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This unique two-floor shop sells 'rescues' from old buildings: fixtures, lamps, tiles, mantelpieces and mirrors. The store's raison d'être though is the doorknob – brass, wooden, glass, elaborate, polished and antique. If you need to accent your crib like the interior of the best old DC row houses, look no further. Staff can help you find whatever you need.

(www.thebrassknob.com; 2311 18th St NW; h10:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

7Idle Time BooksBOOKS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Three creaky floors are stuffed with secondhand literature and nonfiction, including one of the best secondhand political and history collections in the city. Its sci-fi, sports and humor sections are top-notch, and there's a good newsstand in its front window.

(www.idletimebooks.com; 2467 18th St NW; h11am-10pm; mWoodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan)

7MeepsVINTAGE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

There's this girl you know: extremely stylish and never seems to have a brand name on her body. Now, picture her wardrobe. Mod dresses, cowboy shirts, suede jackets, beaded purses, leather boots, Jackie O sunglasses and denim jumpsuits: there's Meeps mapped out for you. The store also carries a selection of clever, locally designed T-shirts.

(www.meepsdc.com; 2104 18th St NW; hnoon-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; mDupont Circle)

l

Local Life

Mixing It Up in Columbia Heights

Columbia Heights booms with Latino immigrants and hipsters. A few decades ago the neighborhood was a tumbledown mess. Then the metro station was built, followed by the slew of big-box retailers. And then – this is why you're here – it morphed into a cool-cat mix of ethnic eateries and unassuming corner taverns chock-full of local color.

Getting There

m Green or Yellow Line to Columbia Heights, 3 miles north of the National Mall (and 1 mile north of U St).

g DC Circulator's Woodley Park–Adams Morgan–McPherson Sq line stops at Columbia Heights Metro station.

1 Mt Pleasant Street

Mt Pleasant Street ( GOOGLE MAP ; mColumbia Heights) is the corazón (heart) of DC’s Latino, largely Salvadoran community. Many businesses advertise money-transfer services to San Salvador or surrounds, or sell snacks from the homeland, or both. Take a stroll and see.

2 Pupuseria San Miguel

Pupuseria San Miguel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-387-5140; 3110 Mt Pleasant Ave NW; pupusas $2; h9am-10pm; mColumbia Heights) is below street level and easy to miss. The humble little restaurant fries up delicious cheap pupusas (tortilla-like cornmeal pockets stuffed with cheese, beans or pork). They're a Salvadoran specialty and San Miguel's are renowned neighborhood-wide. Cash only.

3 Mexican Cultural Institute

The Mexican Cultural Institute ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.instituteofmexicodc.org; 2829 16th St NW; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat; mColumbia Heights) looks imposing, but don't be deterred. The gilded beaux-arts mansion is open to the public and hosts excellent art and cultural exhibitions. You might see a show on Diego Rivera's art, Mayan religious artifacts or Octavio Paz's writings. Ring the doorbell for entry.

4 Wonderland Ballroom

Divey Wonderland Ballroom ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thewonderlandballroom.com; 1101 Kenyon St NW; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri, 11am-3pm Sat, 10am-2am Sun; #; mColumbia Heights) flaunts a spacious patio with outsized wooden benches that are just right on warm evenings. The upstairs dance floor sees a mix of DJs and bands, and gets packed on weekends.

5 BloomBars

BloomBars ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bloombars.com; 3222 11th St NW; by donation; hhours vary; mColumbia Heights) is a cool community arts center with children's story times and music classes by day, and gallery shows and world-music concerts by night.

6 Room 11

While Room 11 ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.room11dc.com; 3234 11th St NW; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mColumbia Heights) is known as an evening wine pourer, the cute-as-a-button cafe is open all day serving locally roasted coffee, house-baked scones and eclectic sandwiches. With no wi-fi you truly can unplug.

7 Meridian Pint

Staffed by neighborhood locals, Meridian Pint ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.meridianpint.com; 3400 11th St NW; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri, 10am-3am Sat, 10am-2am Sun; mColumbia Heights) is the quintessential corner tavern. Sports on TV, pool and shuffleboard, and American craft beers.

8 Maple

At snug Maple ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-588-7442; www.dc-maple.com; 3418 11th St NW; mains $14-22; h5:30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; mColumbia Heights), hot young residents eat pasta on a reclaimed wood bar. Housemade limoncello, Italian craft beers and unusual wine varietals move across the lengthy slab (the wood type, incidentally, gives the venue its name).

1

Top Sights

Arlington National Cemetery

This powerful destination is the somber final resting place for more than 400,000 military personnel and their dependents. Simple white headstones spread over 624 hilly acres, marking the graves of veterans of every US war from the Revolution to Iraq and Afghanistan. The cemetery is still in active use, and it's not uncommon to see families gathered around flag-draped caskets or hear a bugle's lingering notes of Taps hang in the air.

Getting There

m Blue Line to Arlington Cemetery puts you at the sight's entrance. Though Arlington is in Virginia, it's only 3 miles (a few stops) southwest of the Mall.

Arlington National Cemetery

Arno Jansen/Getty Images ©

Practicalities

GOOGLE MAP

%877-907-8585; www.arlingtoncemetery.mil; h8am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; mArlington Cemetery

y Top Tips

A Pick up a free cemetery map at the visitors center.

A Hop-on/hop-off tram tours (adult/child $9/4.75) hit all the highlights. They depart continuously from the visitors center.

A Arlington is near the Lincoln and Vietnam memorials, so they're easy to visit next.

5 Take a Break

Burger buffs swoon over the cheesy patties and booze-spiked milkshakes at Ray's to the Third ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1650 Wilson Blvd; burgers $8-14; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; mRosslyn). It's 1.5 miles northwest of the cemetery.

Don't Miss

Tomb of the Unknowns

The Tomb of the Unknowns contains the remains of unidentified US servicemen from both World Wars and the Korean War. A special military unit of white-gloved, rifle-toting sentinels maintains a round-the-clock vigil. The elaborate changing of the guard (on the half-hour April through September, on the hour October through March) is one of Arlington’s most moving sights.

Kennedy Gravesites

An eternal flame marks the grave of John F Kennedy, next to those of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and their two children who died in infancy. Stones of Cape Cod granite pave the area; the clover and sedum growing in the crevices are meant to evoke a Massachusetts field. JFK's brother Bobby is buried 100ft southwest along the path. Youngest brother Ted also lies nearby.

Arlington House

Much of the cemetery was built on the grounds of Arlington House ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/arho; h9:30am-4:30pm, reduced hours Oct-Mar; mArlington Cemetery), the former home of Robert E Lee and his wife Mary Anna Custis Lee, a descendant of Martha Washington. When Lee left to lead Virginia’s army in the Civil War, Union troops confiscated the property to bury their dead. The home is open for tours.

Other Memorials

The Space Shuttle Challenger and Columbia memorials are near the Tomb of the Unknowns. The USS Maine Memorial, marked by the battleship's huge mast, is also nearby. Section 60 is where Iraq and Afghanistan veterans are buried.

x

The Best of

Washington, DC

Iconic Washington

Embassies & Mansions

Eating

Bars & Clubs

Shopping

Live Music

For Free

Museums & Monuments

For Kids

Gay & Lesbian

Theater & Performing Arts

Art & Architecture

History & Politics

Sports & Activities

2

Best Walks

Iconic Washington

2The Walk

This is a hit parade of DC's most celebrated sights. They huddle around the National Mall – ‘America’s front yard’ – the 2-mile-long strip of grass between the Capitol and Lincoln Memorial. Iconic monuments dot the grounds to the west, hulking Smithsonian museums to the east, and at the northern edge the White House. Start early, especially in summer, to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Start Vietnam Veteran's Memorial; Foggy Bottom-GWU

Finish White House; Federal Triangle or McPherson Sq

Length 3.75 miles; 2½ hours

5Take a Break

Refuel with a glass of wine, a sandwich and fanciful artworks at the Pavilion Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pavilioncafe.com; cnr Constitution Ave & 7th St NW; mains $9-12; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-9:30pm Fri, 11am-7pm Sun; gCirculator, mArchives), smack in the middle of the National Sculpture Garden.

1 Vietnam Veterans Memorial

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial reflects a roll call of the war's 58,272 American casualties. Check the symbol beside each name. A diamond indicates 'killed, body recovered.' A plus sign indicates 'missing and unaccounted for.' There are approximately 1200 of the latter.

2 Lincoln Memorial

Follow the masses to the Lincoln Memorial. Commune with Abe in his chair, then head down the steps to the marker where Martin Luther King Jr gave his 'Dream' speech. The view from here of the Reflecting Pool and Washington Monument is one of DC's best.

Lincoln Memorial

Hisham Ibrahim/Getty Images ©

3 Martin Luther King Jr Memorial

Mosey to the Tidal Basin; the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial stands by the water. Walk right around the towering statue and read the quotes on the walls. King's likeness, incidentally, is 11 feet taller than Lincoln in his memorial.

4 Washington Monument

As you approach the Washington Monument look a third of the way up. See how it's slightly lighter in color at the bottom? Builders had to use different marble after the first source dried up. Get your observation-deck tickets from the kiosk on 15th St.

5 National Air & Space Museum

Simply step inside the Air & Space Museum and gaze up. Lindbergh's Spirit of St Louis and Chuck Yeager's sound-barrier-breaking Bell X-1 are among the history-making machines that hang from the ceiling.

6 National Gallery of Art

Walk across the Mall to the neoclassical west building of the National Gallery of Art. Ogle the western hemisphere's only Leonardo da Vinci painting in Gallery 6.

7 National Archives

Enter the dim rotunda at the National Archives. The Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Bill of Rights unfurl on parchment under glass.

8 White House

Stroll up Pennsylvania Ave to E St NW and the White House. Snap pictures across the South Lawn. Recognize the view? It's commonly used as the backdrop to TV news reports.

2

Best Walks

Embassies & Mansions

2The Walk

Embassies sprinkle the District, but Dupont Circle has the most. Massachusetts Ave was once Millionaire’s Row, and the mansions of the old elite are still thick on the ground. Most embassies were private residences built by industrialists and financiers at the turn of the 20th century. The Great Depression caused many to lose their manors, which stood gracefully decaying until WWII’s end. As nations came to Washington to set up shop, the old homes were uniquely fit to be embassies.

Start Blaine Mansion; Dupont Circle

Finish Spanish Steps; Dupont Circle

Length 1 mile; 45 minutes

5Take a Break

Swill a brew from almost anywhere in the world at Bier Baron ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bierbarondc.com; 1523 22nd St NW; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri, 3pm-2am Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun; mDupont Circle), a half-block south of the Luxembourg Embassy.

1 Blaine Mansion

In 1881 Republican party founder ‘Slippery Jim’ Blaine built the haunted-house-creepy Blaine Mansion at 2000 Massachusetts Ave, now the oldest mansion in Dupont. He lived there less than two years, not because he was spooked by bizarre architecture, but because his political fortunes changed.

2 Indonesian Embassy

The Walsh-McLean House at No 2020 is now the Indonesian Embassy. Gold-mining magnate Thomas Walsh commissioned the home in 1903. He embedded in the foundation a gold nugget, which has never been found.

3 Anderson House

Continue up Massachusetts Ave to No 2118 and the grand Anderson House, base of the Society of the Cincinnati, a patriotic group that educates the public about the Revolutionary War. It's one of the few homes you can go inside. The gilded ballrooms, chandeliers, tapestries and sweeping staircases drop the jaw.

Anderson House

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

4 Luxembourg Embassy

The Luxembourg Embassy at No 2200 is another showstopper. Congressman Alexander Stewart built the home in 1909 in the grand court style of Louis XIV. In 1941 the Grand Duchess of Luxembourg bought it and lived there in exile during WWII.

5 Sheridan Circle

Soon you'll approach Sheridan Circle, centered on Gutzon Borglum’s equestrian statue of Civil War General Philip Sheridan. Borglum later sculpted Mt Rushmore.

6 Turkish Ambassador’s Residence

Edward Everett, inventor of the grooved bottle cap, built what is now the Turkish Ambassador’s Residence, on the corner of Sheridan Circle and 23rd St. George Oakley Totten designed the building, which has some Ottoman influences. Totten was the official architect of the Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II.

7 Croatian Embassy

At No 2343 Massachusetts Ave, a cross-legged sculpture of St Jerome dreams over his book. The masterpiece is the work of renowned Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović; appropriately, it fronts the Croatian Embassy.

8 Spanish Steps

Detour east on Decatur Pl to 22nd St. The rise up to S St NW was too steep, so city planners constructed a delightful pedestrian staircase, dubbed the Spanish Steps for its resemblance to Rome’s Piazza di Spagna. Climb up and stare across the area you’ve traversed.

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Eating

As you might expect of one of the world’s most international cities, DC has an eclectic palate, with a superb array of restaurants serving Ethiopian, Indian, Southeast Asian, French, Italian and more, plus good old-fashioned Southern fare. Annoyingly, DC is also an expensive town for dining, though there's value to be had if you know where to look…

Eating

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

Global Influence

Washington, DC, is populated by immigrants, expats and diplomats from every inhabited continent in the world. People from far away crave the food of home, and so there’s a glut of good ethnic eating around town: West African cafes in Adams Morgan, Salvadoran pupuserias in Columbia Heights and loads of Ethiopian restaurants around U St, to name just a few hot spots.

Local Movement

The District has a unique geography with its position between two of the best food-production areas in America: Chesapeake Bay and the Virginia Piedmont. From the former come crabs, oysters and rockfish; the latter provides game, pork, wine and peanuts. Washington's chefs take advantage of this local bounty.

Southern Influence

Keep in mind that DC also occupies the fault line between two of America’s greatest culinary regions: the northeast and the South. The South, in particular, exerts a tremendous pull. The city offers heaps of soul food and its high-class incarnations, so get ready to loosen the belt for plates of fried chicken, catfish, collard greens, sweet-potato hash and butter-smothered grits – all washed down with sweet iced tea, of course.

yTop Tips

A Make dinner reservations for eateries in the midrange and upper price bracket, especially on weekends. A phone call that afternoon or the day before is usually sufficient.

A Many restaurants let you book online through OpenTable (www.opentable.com).

Best for Chowhounds

Atlas Room Quirky seasonal American plates in a shimmering ambience.

Duke's Grocery Cozy cafe where the chalkboard menu changes daily.

Central Michel Richard Four-star bistro redefines comfort food.

Best Ethnic Eats

Little Serow Multicourse dinner of northern Thai food that's worth the wait.

Toki Underground Belly-warming ramen noodles on hip H St NE.

Bistrot du Coin Hearty French fare from steak frites to mussels.

Best Southern

Oohh's & Aahh's No-frills joint where locals go for collard greens and hummingbird cake.

Georgia Brown's Fine-dining-style okra, shrimp and grits near the White House.

Best Vegetarian

Rasika Avant-garde Indian food served in a mod Jaipur palace.

Ethiopic Solid list of veggie-rich Ethiopian stews.

Amsterdam Falafelshop Fried chickpea patties with DIY toppings.

Best Budget

Ben's Chili Bowl Gossip with locals while downing a half-smoke.

Maine Avenue Fish Market Shrimp, crabs and oysters fried, broiled or steamed wharfside.

Best Sweets

Dolcezza Spoon into offbeat flavors such as strawberry tarragon.

Pie Sisters Three siblings bake 'em big and small, sweet and savory.

Baked & Wired This sunny cafe serves DC's biggest, bestest cupcakes.

Best Brunch

Ted's Bulletin Sink into a retro booth for beer biscuits and housemade pop tarts.

Kramerbooks Browse the stacks and then feed your face at Afterwords Cafe.

Diner Scarf omelets, berry pancakes and Bloody Marys 24/7.

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Bars & Clubs

When Andrew Jackson swore the oath of office in 1829, the self-proclaimed populist dispensed with pomp and circumstance and, quite literally, threw a raging kegger. Pretty much the whole city attended and imbibed heavily. The historical lesson: DC loves a drink, and these days it enjoys said tipples in venues from dive bars to cocktail bars to fresh breweries.

Bars & Clubs

The Washington Post/Getty Images ©

yTop Tips

A Washington is a big happy-hour town. Practically all bars have some sort of drink and/or food special for a few hours between 4pm and 7pm.

Best Cocktails

Tabard Inn Bar Tip back manhattans, sidecars and other classics amid wood-paneled nooks.

A&D Bar Artsy neighborhood tavern gets creative with local spirits.

Best Beer

Bluejacket Brewery Genre-spanning suds made on-site, from sour blonds to barley wines.

Churchkey The hulking menu has 500 different beers, including 50 craft brews on tap.

Best Clubs

18th Street Lounge A sexy young crowd grooves in this Dupont mansion.

Cafe Citron Loud, packed floor for dancing to hip-shaking Latin music.

Best Dives

Dan's Cafe Like an evil Elks Club, with massive pours of booze.

Millie & Al's Home to a half-century of hard knocks, $2 draft beers and pizza slices.

Best Local Drinking

Right Proper Brewing Co Housemade ales flow in Duke Ellington's old pool hall.

Wonderland Ballroom Edgy, eccentric, with oddball folk art and a big ol' terrace.

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Shopping

Shopping in DC means many things, from browsing funky antique shops to perusing rare titles at secondhand booksellers. Temptations abound for lovers of vinyl, vintage wares, and one-of-a-kind jewelry, art and handicrafts. And, of course, that Abe Lincoln pencil sharpener and rhinestone Obama hat you’ve been wanting await…

Shopping

Jason Colston/Getty Images ©

Best Markets

Eastern Market Butcher, baker and blue-crab maker on weekdays, plus artisans and farmers on weekends.

Flea Market Weekend browser for cool art, furniture, clothing, global wares and bric-a-brac.

Best Antiques

Book Hill Galleries, interior-design stores and antique shops all in a row in Georgetown.

Brass Knob Salvaged lamps, mirrors, mantelpieces and heaps of doorknobs from old buildings.

Best Books & Music

Capitol Hill Books So many volumes they're even for sale in the bathroom.

Second Story Books Antiquarian books and old sheet music, plus cheap sidewalk bins to rummage.

Idle Time Books Great political and history stacks among the three creaky floors of used tomes.

Crooked Beat Records Laid-back all-vinyl shop with crates of rock, punk and soul.

Best Souvenirs

White House Gifts Presidential golf balls, T-shirts, snow globes: a quintessential spot for DC trinkets.

National Archives For when you need a Declaration-inscribed ruler or John Adams stuffed toy.

Best Art

Old Print Gallery Vintage maps and prints, from Kentucky pioneer land charts to Audubon lithographs.

Claude Taylor Photography Travel pictures from around the globe, including cool DC scenes.

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Live Music

Washington’s musical taste splits in several directions. Its jazz affair started in the early 20th century, when U St NW was known as Black Broadway for its slew of music theaters. Duke Ellington grew up in the neighborhood, and his influence lingers on. Blues, rock and global music also waft out of atmospheric local halls.

Live Music

Stephen J Boitano/Getty Images ©

Neighborhood Hubs

Loads of clubs besides jazzy ones cluster around U St between 7th St and 14th St NW. The bands vary – alt-rock, hip-hop, soul, funk, Caribbean – but the common thread is that the venues are intimate, with something indie-cool going on. Other areas to scope out are H St NE in Capitol Hill for hip jazz and rock clubs, and 18th St NW in Adams Morgan for raucous music houses and world beats.

yTop Tips

A See the alt-weekly Washington City Paper (www.washingtoncitypaper.com) for comprehensive listings.

Best Rock, Funk & Blues

Rock & Roll Hotel There's thrashing rock, but also hip hop, punk and metal in this down-and-dirty club.

Madam's Organ Prepare for yee-hawin' wild times in Adams Morgan's bluesy hot spot.

Bukom Cafe Join the West African crowd getting their groove on to reggae beats.

Hamilton Alt-rock and funk bands plug in a stone's throw from the White House.

Best Jazz

HR-57 A jazz preservation hall with open-jam sessions and BYO drinks.

Bohemian Caverns Seasoned veterans still play this cool-cat club where Duke and Coltrane bopped.

Blues Alley This sophisticated icon has been bringing in top names since Dizzy Gillespie's day.

Jazz in the Garden Tune in amid whimsical artworks in the National Sculpture Garden.

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For Free

Washington has a mind-blowing array of freebies. From 20-plus genre-spanning museums, to gratis theater and concerts, to jaunts through the White House and Capitol, you can be entertained for weeks without spending a dime.

For Free

Capitol, artwork by Constantino Brumidi; Jamie Grill/Getty Images ©

Museum Mania

The Smithsonian Institution has an incredible bounty of free museums. There are also other gratis collections such as the National Gallery of Art and US Holocaust Memorial Museum. Plus all of DC's monuments are free to visit.

See the Museums & Monuments Best List (Click here) for more information.

Best Free Non-Museum Sights

National Archives Gape at the Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Bill of Rights.

Library of Congress The world's largest library displays centuries-old maps, bibles and Thomas Jefferson's books

Best Free Tours

White House Peek into the rooms of the Presidential Palace (as it was once known).

Capitol Guides lead you through the white-domed sanctum of Congress, cluttered with statues and frescoes.

Bureau of Engraving & Printing Watch millions of dollars get printed, cut and inspected.

National Public Radio Wave to your favorite correspondents as you walk past the newsroom.

DC by Foot Knowledgeable guides working on a tip-only basis share lore on a Mall walkabout.

Best Free Entertainment

Kennedy Center The Millennium Stage hosts a free music or dance performance daily at 6pm.

Shakespeare Theatre Company Each August the troupe puts on a Bard classic gratis.

Screen on the Green Watch classic movies on a big screen in the Mall's midst.

Best Free Days at Paid Museums

Phillips Collection Free Tuesday through Friday for the permanent galleries.

National Museum of Women in the Arts Free the first Sunday of the month.

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Museums & Monuments

There’s nothing quite like the Smithsonian Institution, a collection of 19 behemoth, artifact-stuffed museums, many lined up in a row along the Mall. Rockets, dinosaurs, Rodin sculptures – even the 45-carat Hope Diamond lights up a room. Washington’s monuments – potent symbols of the nation's history and its makers – add to the stockpile.

Museums & Monuments

Jason Colston/Getty Images ©

Smithsonian Stash

Thanks, James Smithson, you eccentric antimonarchist Englishman. That $508,318 gift you willed to the USA back in 1826 to create a ‘diffusion of knowledge’ paid off big time. The Smithsonian holds approximately 140 million artworks, scientific specimens, artifacts and other objects in its trove of museums. In accordance with Mr Smithson's wishes they're all free, always.

Other Museums & Exhibits

DC has many more museums beyond the Smithsonian. Freebies include the National Gallery of Art and haunting US Holocaust Memorial Museum. The government-run National Archives and Library of Congress aren't technically museums, but they hold museum-caliber exhibits. Then there are a handful of admission-charging entities such as the impressive Newseum.

The ceiling of the Jefferson Building, Library of Congress, painted by Edwin Blashfield

Danita Delimont/Getty Images ©

Monument Madness

Monuments pack the Mall and spill into the surrounding neighborhoods. They're so prevalent you'd think it'd be easy to get one built. Not so. First you need Congressional approval. Then you have to raise a lot of money and get everyone involved to agree on a design. Take the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial. The idea had been floating around for decades. Congress approved it in 1996; $120 million and 15 years later, it finally it opened in August 2011.

Worth a Trip

At the tranquil Pentagon Memorial ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pentagonmemorial.org; mPentagon), 184 illuminated benches honor each man, woman and child killed in the September 11, 2001 terrorist attack on the building, headquarters of the US Department of Defense. Take the Metro Blue or Yellow Line; it's a few stops south of the Mall.

yTop Tips

A Most monuments are open 24/7 and are particularly atmospheric to visit in the quiet of morning or lit up at night.

A Timed entry tickets are needed for the Washington Monument and US Holocaust Memorial Museum. They do run out, so arrive early or preorder online for a small fee.

Best Science Museums

National Air & Space Museum Rockets, missiles and the Wright brothers' biplane.

National Museum of Natural History Gems, minerals, mummies and a giant squid.

Best History Museums

US Holocaust Memorial Museum Brutal and impassioned exhibits about the millions murdered by the Nazis.

National Museum of American History Everything from the Star Spangled Banner flag to Dorothy's ruby slippers.

Newseum The Unabomber's cabin, Dillinger's death mask and other artifacts from headline stories.

Best Art Museums

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture Portraits on one side; Warhol, Hopper and more on the other.

National Gallery of Art It takes two massive buildings to hold all the paintings and sculptures.

Phillips Collection Modern art in a house that puts you face-to-face with Renoirs and Rothkos.

Best Monuments

Lincoln Memorial Abe Lincoln gazes peacefully across the Mall from his hallowed, Doric-columned temple.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial The black wall reflects the names of the Vietnam War’s 58,272 American casualties.

Martin Luther King Jr Memorial Dr King’s 30ft-tall likeness emerges from a mountain of granite.

Washington Monument The iconic obelisk, DC's tallest structure, offers unparalleled views from the top.

Tomb of the Unknowns Military guards maintain a round-the-clock vigil at this crypt in Arlington's cemetery.

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For Kids

Washington bursts with kid-friendly attractions. Not only do they hold the nation’s best collection of dinosaur bones, rockets and one-of-a-kind historical artifacts, but just about everything is free. Another bonus: green space surrounds all the sights, so young ones can burn off energy to their hearts’ content.

For Kids

Chris Grill/Getty Images ©

Advance Reservations

Some sights – including the International Spy Museum, National Archives, Washington Monument, Ford's Theatre and the Capitol – allow you to make advance reservations for a small fee. During peak season (late March through August), it pays to go online and do so at least a few days prior if you want to avoid lengthy queues.

Rainy-Day Options

The Smithsonian has two IMAX theaters on the Mall: one in the National Museum of Natural History, and the other in the National Air & Space Museum. The latter also holds the Einstein Planetarium. Schedules are amalgamated at www.si.edu/imax.

Films to Set the Mood

In Night at the Museum 2: Battle of the Smithsonian (2009), museum exhibits come to life for Ben Stiller in the National Air & Space Museum and National Gallery of Art. (FYI, the first film was set in the Smithsonian's New York City history museum, and the third film takes place at London's British Museum.) In National Treasure (2004) Nicolas Cage finds a coded map on the back of the Declaration of Independence that leads to – that's right – national treasure! The sequel came out in 2007, and the third installment supposedly is in the works.

Worth a Trip

The National Zoo ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalzoo.si.edu; 3001 Connecticut Ave NW; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4:30pm Nov-Mar, grounds 6am-8pm daily, to 6pm Nov-Mar; mCleveland Park, Woodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan) is the top banana among family sights in DC. Giant pandas, orangutans and lions roam against a lovely backdrop. The zoo is equidistant between the Cleveland Park and Woodley Park Metro stops, but the walk is downhill from Cleveland Park.

yTop Tips

A Most museums provide family guide booklets with activities kids can do on-site; ask at the information desk.

A Take a spin on the old-fashioned carousel (tickets $3.50) on the Mall by the Smithsonian Castle.

A Our Kids (www.our-kids.com) lists local family-friendly events and restaurants.

Best Museums

National Museum of Natural History Henry the giant elephant! A T rex! Tarantula feedings in the insect zoo!

National Air & Space Museum Touch moon rocks and walk through space capsules.

Newseum Junior journalists report ‘live from the White House’ via the TV studio.

Best Entertainment

National Theatre Free Saturday-morning performances, from puppet shows to tap dancers.

Discovery Theater The Smithsonian's kids' theater features cultural plays and storytelling.

Best Kids' Cuisine

Diner Drawing materials for kids, booze for parents, 24-hour service and American food classics for all.

Ted's Bulletin Retro spot serving smiley-face pancakes and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.

Good Stuff Eatery Burgers, hand-cut fries and kid-size milk shakes – good stuff indeed.

Best Shops

International Spy Museum The shop carries everything from mustache disguises to voice-changing gadgets.

Tugooh Toys Wood blocks, ecofriendly stuffed animals and educational games line the shelves.

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Gay & Lesbian

DC is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the US. The city has an admirable track record of progressivism and a fair bit of scene to boot. The rainbow stereotype here consists of well-dressed professionals and activists working in politics on GLBT issues such as gay marriage (legal in DC since 2010).

Gay & Lesbian

Glow Images Inc/Getty Images ©

Neighborhood Hubs

The gay community concentrates in Dupont Circle, which sees a lot of action in its bars and cafes. Over the past few years the party has started to drift toward Logan Circle, a short distance east, where many gays live. U Street, Shaw and Capitol Hill also have active scenes and gay-friendly businesses.

Events

The big event on the calendar is Capital Pride (www.capitalpride.org) in early to mid-June. Some 250,000 people attend the gay pride party. The parade along Pennsylvania Ave to the Mall is the focal point. There's also DC Black Pride (www.dcblackpride.org) in late May, the nation’s largest black pride festival.

yTop Tips

A Washington Blade (www.washingtonblade.com) is a free weekly gay newspaper that covers politics and has lots of business and nightlife listings.

A Metro Weekly (www.metroweekly.com) is the rival weekly publication aimed at a younger demographic.

Best for Fun

Kramerbooks Bookstore and bistro that's open around the clock on weekends for heavy flirting.

JR's Dupont pub where a young, well-dressed crowd kicks back and sings show tunes.

Cobalt Venerable gay club with wild dance parties throughout the week.

Phase 1 Four-decade-old lesbian bar with Jell-o wrestling and frisky dancing.

Perrys The restaurant's drag-queen brunch packs the place every Sunday.

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Theater & Performing Arts

Washington stages more than political theater. From the evening-wear elegance of the Kennedy Center to scrappy theater troupes acting in pubs, the nation’s capital has an envious slate of performances. It caters to Shakespeare, classical-music and poetry-slam fans particularly well.

Theatre & Performing Arts

Kennedy Center by Edward Durell Stone; Hisham Ibrahim/Getty Images ©

yTop Tips

A Ticketplace (www.ticketplace.org) sells discounted tickets – up to 50% off – to theater, dance, symphony and opera performances.

A Destination DC (www.washington.org/calendar) and Culture Capital (www.culturecapital.com) are good resources for event listings.

Best Theater

Shakespeare Theatre Company The nation's top troupe does the Bard proud.

Studio Theatre Award-winning venue for contemporary plays, known for its powerhouse premieres.

Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company Experimental theater that puts on edgy original works.

Ford's Theatre Lincoln's assassination site is still an active playhouse, often staging works related to Abe.

Best Performing Arts

Busboys & Poets Ground zero for open-mike poetry readings and story slams.

Kennedy Center DC’s performing-arts king of the hill, home to the symphony, opera and more.

Military bands The Marine Corps, Air Force, Army and Navy make patriotic music at the Capitol.

National Theatre DC's glitzy grand dame hosts Broadway shows and big touring productions.

Best Comedy

Capitol Steps They take corny jabs at Congress in musical sketches a la 'Fiscal Shades of Gray.'

DC Improv National stand-up comics yuck it up alongside local amateurs.

Howard Theatre Historic venue in Shaw that sprinkles big-name comedians into its line-up.

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Art & Architecture

The National Gallery of Art and Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture are the big players, but Washington's art scene extends well beyond them. Specialty collections fill several smaller museums, and a host of imaginative galleries make their home in the city. The neoclassical, Federal-style and modern buildings that rise up from DC's streets are artworks in their own right.

Art & Architecture

Edwin Remsberg/Getty Images ©

yTop Tips

A Federal-style architecture was popular from around 1780 to 1830. It evoked the elegance of classical architecture overlaid with an emphasis on modesty and understatement – a style that represented America's evolving national identity.

A The best places to see it are Georgetown and Capitol Hill, where Federal-style row houses still line the streets.

Best Galleries

District of Columbia Arts Center The grassroots group shows thought-provoking emerging artists in its humble space.

Touchstone Gallery The gallery, run by a group of 45 artists, puts on vibrant contemporary exhibitions.

Foundry Gallery Local artists display avant-garde paintings and sculpture in a Dupont townhouse.

Best Underappreciated Museums

Freer-Sackler Museums of Asian Art Ancient ceramics and temple sculptures spread across two tunnel-connected galleries.

National Building Museum Exhibits on DC's architecture set in a dramatic, Corinthian-columned hall.

National Museum of Women in the Arts Works by Kahlo, O'Keeffe and 700 other female artists.

Best Modern Architecture

National Museum of the American Indian The curving limestone exterior blobs like an art-house amoeba.

National Gallery of Art IM Pei designed the angular, light-drenched east building.

Reynolds Center for American Art & Portraiture The courtyard's glass canopy drops the jaw.

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History & Politics

The president, Congress and the Supreme Court are here, the three pillars of US government. In their orbit float the State Department, World Bank and embassies from around the globe. If you hadn’t got the idea, power is why Washington exerts such a palpable buzz. There’s a thrill in seeing all the history and politics up close here.

History & Politics

RiverNorthPhotography/Getty Images ©

Best Politico Bars

Round Robin Since 1850 bigwigs and lobbyists have swirled drinks and cut deals in the gilded bar.

Off the Record Where Very Important People drink martinis, steps from the White House.

Best Politico Restaurants

Le Diplomate DC's political glitterati flock here for a Parisian-style night out.

Old Ebbitt Grill Play spot the senator while cracking open an oyster.

Cafe Milano Famed place to twirl spaghetti and spy big shots in Georgetown.

Best for Seeing Politics in Action

Capitol Sit in on committee hearings to see how bills start winding their way toward laws.

White House The protester-fueled political theater outside the house is democracy at its finest.

Best Sites for History Buffs

Ford's Theatre View the box seat where President Lincoln was assassinated.

National Archives Ogle the Declaration of Independence on parchment under glass.

Lincoln Memorial Steps Stand where Martin Luther King Jr gave his ‘I Have a Dream’ speech.

Watergate Complex Check out the building synonymous with political scandal, thanks to Richard Nixon and his wiretaps.

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Sports & Activities

The nation’s capital comes together in ways unexpected and touching when sports are at stake. It’s about the only thing that gets citizens as pumped as politics, and it’s more accessible, if not quite as cutthroat. But residents don't just watch sports – they get active, too. Miles of trails crisscross the city, offering sweet hiking and cycling opportunities.

Sports & Activities

Jason Colston/Getty Images ©

yTop Tips

A For spectator sports, it's best to buy tickets direct from the team's website or stadium box office.

A You can also try online providers such as StubHub (www.stubhub.com) or Craigslist (http://washingtondc.craigslist.org; look under 'For Sale,' then 'Tickets').

Best Spectator Sports

Washington Nationals Ya gotta love the cheap tickets and incomparable Racing Presidents.

Washington Capitals This is a hockey team that knows how to fight.

Washington Wizards It's a pumped-up scene, even if the team struggles at times.

Best Walking & Jogging

National Mall Nothing inspires a jog like the big green lawn studded with monuments.

C&O Canal Towpath Bucolic trail a few steps from Georgetown's shopping frenzy.

Georgetown Waterfront Park Riverside path to watch yachts and take a break at outdoor cafes.

Dumbarton Oaks Park Escape the crowds on wooded, bridge-crossed trails.

Best Guided Jaunts

Key Bridge Boathouse Paddle by monuments on twilight kayaking tours.

DC by Foot Excellent pay-what-you-want walks by theme or by neighborhood.

Bike & Roll Nighttime cycling rides around the illuminated Mall.

Best Cycling

Big Wheel Bikes Convenient rental shop near three ace cycling trails.

Capital Bikeshare Stations around the city rent two-wheelers for quick trips.

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A Winter (Dec–Feb) January booms if it's an inauguration year. Otherwise, low-season bargains abound. Gray and chilly; occasional snow.

A Spring (Mar–May) Peak tourism season thanks to cherry blossoms and school-group visits. Comfy weather.

A Summer (Jun–Aug) Busy with summer-holiday crowds; lots of festivals. Hot, humid, 90-degree-plus temperatures.

A Autumn (Sep–Nov) Shoulder season. The masses diminish; lodging prices decrease. Cooler weather; trees burst with color.

Book Your Stay

Top Tip Washington's 14.5% hotel tax is not included in most quoted rates.

A The White House area, downtown and Dupont Circle have the most lodgings.

A For parking costs, figure on $20 to $40 per day for in-and-out privileges.

Useful Websites

A Bed & Breakfast DC (www.bedandbreakfastdc.com) One-stop shop to book B&Bs and apartments.

A Destination DC (www.washington.org) Options from the tourism office's jam-packed website.

A WDCA Hotels (www.wdcahotels.com) Discounter that sorts by neighborhood, price or ecofriendliness.

A Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels) Author-recommended reviews and online booking.

A AirBnB (www.airbnb.com) Rent a room or apartment from locals.

Best Budget

A Hostelling International – Washington DC (www.hiwashingtondc.org) Big, amenity-laden hostel that draws a laid-back international crowd.

A William Penn House (www.williampennhouse.org) Quaker-run guesthouse with garden and dorms.

A Windsor Inn (www.windsor-inn-hotel-dc.com) Sparse rooms in an old brownstone well located near Dupont Circle and U St.

A Capital View Hostel (www.capitalhostels.com) Downtown dorms and a groovy roof deck.

Best Midrange

A Chester Arthur House (www.chesterarthurhouse.com) B&B for those who want to explore DC beyond the norm.

A Embassy Circle Guest House French-country-style home near Embassy Row that’ll feed you silly.

A Hotel Lombardy (www.hotellombardy.com) European-style, Venetian-furnished boutique catering to worldly guests.

A Morrison-Clark Inn (www.morrisonclark.com) A historic 1864 mansion that channels the antebellum South.

A Tabard Inn (www.tabardinn.com) Quirky, vintage inn with a literary bent.

Best Top End

A Hay-Adams Hotel (www.hayadams.com) Heritage property awash in old-school opulence.

A Jefferson Hotel (www.jeffersondc.com) Luxurious, romantic, Parisian and often considered DC’s top address.

A Hotel George (www.hotelgeorge.com) Mod boutique near the Capitol with pop-art presidential accents.

A Hotel Palomar (www.hotelpalomar-dc.com) Stylish Dupont hot spot for business travelers and those with pooches.

Arriving in Washington, DC

Top Tip For the best way to get to your accommodations, see (Click here).

From Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport

A Metrorail (%202-637-7000; www.wmata.com) The airport has its own Metro station on the Blue and Yellow Lines. Trains (around $2.50) depart every 10 minutes or so between 5am and midnight (to 3am Friday and Saturday); they reach the city center in 20 minutes.

A The door-to-door Supershuttle (%800-258-3826; www.supershuttle.com; h5:30am-12:30am) shared-van service goes downtown for $14. It takes 10 to 30 minutes.

A Taxi rides to the center take 10 to 30 minutes (depending on traffic) and cost $13 to $22. Taxis queue outside the baggage-claim area at each terminal.

From Dulles International Airport

A Washington Flyer (%888-927-4359; www.washfly.com) buses run every 30 minutes from Dulles to West Falls Church Metro (Orange Line) between 5:45am (7:45am weekends) and 10:15pm. Cost is $10 plus around $3 for Metro. Total time to the center is 60 or so minutes.

A Metrobus 5A (www.wmata.com) runs every 30 to 40 minutes from Dulles to Rosslyn Metro (Orange and Blue Lines) and on to central DC (L'Enfant Plaza) between 5:50am (6:30am weekends) and 11:40pm. Total time to the center is 60 or so minutes, bus/Metro fare is about $8.

A The door-to-door Supershuttle shared-van service goes downtown for $29. It takes 30 to 60 minutes.

A Taxi rides to the center take 30 to 60 minutes (depending on traffic) and cost $62 to $73.

From Union Station

A There's a Metro (Red Line) stop inside the station for easy onward transport. The station is a few stops northeast of downtown.

A Taxis queue outside the main entrance. A ride to downtown costs around $7, to Dupont Circle $10.

Getting Around

Metro

Best for… Most sights and neighborhoods.

A Trains start running at 5am Monday through Friday (from 7am on weekends); the last service is around midnight Sunday through Thursday and 3am on Friday and Saturday.

A Machines inside stations sell computerized fare cards; fares cost from $1.75 to $5.90, depending on distance traveled.

A Fares increase slightly during morning and evening rush hour.

A Use the card to enter and exit station turnstiles. Upon exit, the turnstile deducts the fare and returns the card. If the value of the card is insufficient, you need to use an ‘Addfare’ machine to add money.

Bus

Best for… Georgetown, Adams Morgan and other areas with limited Metro service.

A DC Circulator (www.dccirculator.com; fare $1) buses run along handy local routes, including Union Station to/from Georgetown, Dupont Circle to/from Georgetown, and the White House area to/from Adams Morgan.

A Circulator buses operate from 6am to 9pm weekdays and 7am to 9pm Saturdays. Reduced times in winter (including no Saturday service).

A Metrobus (www.wmata.com; fare $1.75) operates throughout the city and suburbs, typically from early morning until late evening.

A Pay with exact change, or use a SmarTrip card for all buses.

Bicycle

Best for… Mall explorations, Georgetown trails.

A Capital Bikeshare (%877-430-2453; www.capitalbikeshare.com; membership 24hr/3 days $7/15) has a network of more than 1300 bikes at 150 stations around town.

A To check out a bike, select the membership (one day or three days), insert your credit card and off you go.

A The first 30 minutes are free; the next 30 minutes are $2. After that rates rise fast.

A Bike rentals for longer rides (with accoutrements such as helmets and locks) start at $16 per two hours. Try Bike & Roll or Big Wheel Bikes.

Taxi & Rideshare

Best for…Reaching H St NE or other Metro-less nightlife pockets.

A Taxis queue at Union Station, the main hotels and sports venues, but it's not always easy to hail one on the street.

A Fares are meter-based. The meter starts at $3.25, then it's $2.16 per mile thereafter.

A There's a $2 surcharge for telephone dispatches. Try Diamond (%202-387-6200) if you need a pick-up.

A The rideshare company Uber (www.uber.com) is well used and well loved in the District.

Car & Motorcycle

Best for… Trips out of town.

A Avoid driving in DC. Traffic is constant and street parking is scarce.

A Parking garages in the city cost $15 to $35 per day.

A Car rentals start around $55 to $65 per day, plus sales tax and insurance.

A Particularly clogged rush-hour streets include the main access arteries from the suburbs: Massachusetts, Wisconsin, Connecticut and Georgia Aves NW, among others.

Tickets & Passes

A If you're going to use the Metro more than a few times, it's worth buying a rechargeable SmarTrip card, available at any station. It costs $10, with $8 of that stored for fares. You can add value as needed. Without a SmarTrip card, each ride you take is subject to a $1 surcharge for using a disposable fare card.

A Unlimited-ride Metro day passes cost $14.50, available at any station.

Route Planner

The District Department of Transportation’s goDCgo (www.godcgo.com) is a useful resource for biking, bus, Metro and parking information, and route planning. It even has a carbon calculator that compares different modes of local travel.

Essential Information

Business Hours

Typical normal opening times are as follows:

Bars 5pm to 1am or 2am weekdays, 3am on weekends

Museums 10am to 5:30pm

Nightclubs 9pm to 1am or 2am weekdays, 3am on weekends

Offices and government agencies 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday

Restaurants Breakfast 7am or 8am to 11am; lunch 11am or 11:30am to 2:30pm or 3pm; dinner 5pm or 6pm to 10pm Sunday to Thursday, to 11pm or midnight Friday and Saturday

Shops 10am to 7pm Monday to Saturday, noon to 6pm Sunday

Electricity

Emergency

Police, fire, ambulance 911.

Money

Top Tip Tipping is not optional; only withhold tips in cases of outrageously bad service.

The US dollar ($) is the currency.

ATMs

A ATMs are widely available at banks, airports and convenience shops.

A Most ATMs link into worldwide networks (Plus, Cirrus, Exchange etc).

A ATMs typically charge a service fee of $2.50 or more per transaction.

Credit Cards

A Visa, MasterCard and American Express are widely accepted at hotels, restaurants, bars and shops.

Money Exchange

A Although the airports have exchange bureaus, better rates can usually be obtained at banks in the city.

Tipping

Airport & hotel porters $2 per bag, minimum per cart $5.

Bartenders 15% per round, minimum per drink $1.

Hotel maids $2 to $5 per night.

Restaurant servers 15% to 20%, unless a gratuity is already charged on the bill.

Taxi drivers 10% to 15%, rounded up to the next dollar.

Valet parking attendants At least $2 when you’re handed back the keys.

Money-Saving Tips

A Make the most of DC's abundant free sights and entertainment (Click here).

A Take advantage of happy hour, when bars have drink and/or food specials for a few hours between 4pm and 7pm.

A Check Ticketplace (www.ticketplace.org) for discount tickets to theater, dance, symphony and opera performances.

Public Holidays

Banks, schools, offices and most shops close on these days:

New Year’s Day January 1

Martin Luther King Jr Day Third Monday in January

Inauguration Day January 20, every four years

Presidents’ Day Third Monday in February

Memorial Day Last Monday in May

Independence Day July 4

Labor Day First Monday in September

Columbus Day Second Monday in October

Veterans Day November 11

Thanksgiving Day Fourth Thursday in November

Christmas Day December 25

Telephone

US country code 1

DC area code 202

Making international calls Dial 011 + country code + area code + local number.

Calling other US area codes or Canada Dial 1 + area code + seven-digit local number.

Calling within DC Just dial the seven-digit local number.

Cell phones Most US cell phones – aside from iPhones – operate on CDMA, not the European standard of GSM. Be sure to double check compatibility with your phone service provider.

Dos & Don'ts

A Do bring comfortable shoes, as you'll be doing a lot of walking, especially around the Mall.

A Don't smoke in restaurants or bars; DC is smoke free by law in those venues.

A Do bring an umbrella, as the city gets a fair amount of rain.

A Don't worry about dressing up. While DC is a business-suit kind of town, it's perfectly fine to wear casual clothes to dinner or the theater.

Tourist Information

DC Chamber of Commerce Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-347-7201; www.dcchamber.org; 506 9th St NW; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri; mGallery Pl)

Destination DC ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-789-7000; www.washington.org)

Smithsonian Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %202-663-1000; www.si.edu/visit; 1000 Jefferson Dr SW; h8:30am-5:30pm; W; mSmithsonian)

Travelers with Disabilities

Top Tip All DC transit companies offer travel discounts for disabled travelers.

A Most museums and major sights are wheelchair accessible, as are most large hotels and restaurants.

A All Metro trains and buses are accessible to people in wheelchairs. All Metro stations have elevators, and guide dogs are allowed on trains and buses.

A Hindrances to wheelchair users include buckled-brick sidewalks in the historic blocks of Georgetown and Capitol Hill, but sidewalks in most other parts of DC are in good shape.

Visas

Top Tip Check with the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) for updates and details on entry requirements.

A The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allows nationals from 36 countries (including most EU countries, Japan, Australia and New Zealand) to enter the US without a visa for up to 90 days.

A VWP visitors require a machine-readable passport and approval under the Electronic System For Travel Authorization (www.cbp.gov/esta) at least three days before arrival. There is a $14 fee for processing and authorization (payable online). Once approved, the registration is valid for two years.

A Those who need a visa – ie anyone staying longer than 90 days, or from a non-VWP country – should apply at the US consulate in their home country.

Behind the Scenes

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Karla's Thanks

Thanks to my groovy DC friends – Bill B, Amy S and all the rest – for good-heartedly answering my relentless questions. Deep appreciation to all the locals who spilled the beans on their favorite places. Thanks most of all to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner for life, who joined me for capital explorations and fed me during the write-up phase. You top my Best List.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Lincoln Memorial, Dennis K Johnson/Getty

This Book

This 2nd edition of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Washington, DC was researched and written by Karla Zimmerman. The previous edition was written by Adam Karlin. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Destination Editor Dora Whitaker

Coordinating Editors Carolyn Boicos, Kellie Langdon

Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall

Book Designer Wendy Wright

Assisting Editor Charlotte Orr

Cover Research Naomi Parker

Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Mark Griffiths, Jouve India, Wayne Murphy, Claire Naylor, Darren O’Connell, Wibowo Rusli, Tracy Whitmey

Ebook thanks to Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Karla Zimmerman

During her Washington travels, Karla devoured an embarrassing number of half-smokes, shook hands with Racing Abe Lincoln at Nationals Park and gaped unabashedly at the documents in the National Archives. The city will always be her first love, the one that unleashed her wander lust. Walking up the steps of the Lincoln Memorial at night as a five year old, and seeing big ol’ white-gleaming Abe, is her first magical travel memory. Karla has written for several Lonely Planet guides to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

2nd edition - November 2014

ISBN 9781743604311

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

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