Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Singapore

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Singapore

Explore

Colonial District, the Quays & Marina Bay

Orchard Road

Tiong Bahru

Chinatown, CBD & Tanjong Pagar

Katong (Joo Chiat)

Geylang

Changi & Pulau Ubin

Little India & Kampong Glam

Sentosa

Singapore Zoo

Night Safari

Holland Village & Dempsey Hill

Southwest Singapore

Best

The Best of Singapore

Colonial Singapore

New-Millennium Singapore

Tours

Festivals

Shopping

Street Food

Dining

For Kids

Drinking

Entertainment

Views & Vistas

For Free

Museums

Escapes

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Singapore

Getting Around

Essential Information

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Singapore

Smart, sharp and just a little sexy, Singapore is Southeast Asia's new 'It kid', subverting staid old stereotypes with ambitious architecture, dynamic museums, celebrity chefs and hip boutiques. Spike it with smoky temples, gut-rumble-inducing food markets and pockets of steamy jungle, and you might find that Asia's former wallflower is a much more intriguing bloom than you gave it credit for.

Merlion, Marina Bay

GAVIN HELLIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

1

Singapore

Top Sights

Gardens by the Bay

Singapore’s latest buzz-inducing asset is a $1 billion ‘super park’ that makes horticulture hot. Explore its futuristic bio-domes and Supertrees, traverse its panoramic Skyway, and keep an eye out for Marc Quinn's floating infant.

BUENA VISTA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Singapore Zoo

Singapore Zoo is one of the world's most inviting, enlightened animal sanctuaries, and a family-friendly must. Breakfast with orang-utans, sneak up to sleepy sloths and purr over rare white tigers.

TUOMAS LEHTINEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Singapore Botanic Gardens

Singapore's Garden of Eden is the perfect antidote to the city's rat-race tendencies. Obscenely lush and verdant, its 74 hectares are home to rare orchids, a swan-studded lake and a romantic, ginger-centric restaurant.

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Night Safari

Get up close and personal with a different kind of nightlife at this award-winning wildlife park, filled with an intriguing cast of free-roaming and free-flying creatures, great and small.

ANUP SHAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

National Museum of Singapore

Evocative, interactive exhibitions and striking old-meets-new architecture define Singapore's showcase museum. If you're after a gripping crash course in Singaporean history and culture, put this on your hit list.

SENG CHYE TEO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Universal Studios

Home to the planet's tallest duelling roller coasters, Universal Studios cranks up the adrenalin with seven themed areas pimped with enough rides, razzle-dazzle spectaculars and movie-set kitsch to thrill the most hardened of inner children.

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS SINGAPORE, RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA ©

Singapore Top Sights

Asian Civilisations Museum

Travel east to west across Asia at this engrossing ode to the continent's tapestry of cultures and traditions. It's like a glittering cultural attic, filled with ancient pottery and sculptures, mystical weaponry and dazzling jewels.

TRAVELASIA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Southern Ridges

Monkey-peppered jungle, sculptural forest walkways and arresting views over city and sea – this multipark trail offers one of Singapore's most beautiful and accessible natural getaways.

THANK YOU/GETTY IMAGES ©

Singapore Top Sights

Chinatown Heritage Centre

Immerse yourself in the struggles, scandals and hard-core grit of Chinatown's roller-coaster past at this unsung museum. You'll find it on a lantern-festooned street once better known for opium dens and coolie traders.

ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

l

Singapore

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Singapore

Once you've checked off the major sights, dig a little deeper and discover a more intimate side to the city – the side the locals know.

Chinatown Tastebuds & Temples

A Authentic hawker centres

A Hotspot bars and restaurants

The opium dens may have gone, but Chinatown's stubborn spirit kicks on with its in-your-face market stalls, congee-slurping uncles and dragon-littered temples. Whether plonked on a plastic kopitiam (coffee-shop) stool or offering incense to the divine, prepare to savour enticing Chinatown.

Tiong Bahru

A Hip shops and cafes

A Heritage architecture

Not only famous for its art deco and mid-20th-century domestic architecture, this low-rise, laid-back neighbourhood is pulling in the trendsetters and hipsters with its ever-expanding booty of clued-in cafes, trendy bars and restaurants, and quirky shops, not to mention its top-notch bookstores.

A Stroll in Little India

A Mosques and temples

A Street life

A riot of colours, scents and evening crowds, Little India bursts with pungent pavement stalls, authentic Indian grub and sari-peddling shops blaring Indian pop. Hunt down market spices, pimp your skin with henna and feast your eyes on a whimsical, fairy-tale mosque.

Heritage building, Little India

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Katong

A Peranakan heritage

A Restaurants

Multicoloured heritage shophouses, restaurant-filled streets and shops peddling traditional ceramics, shoes and textiles – popular Katong is the heart and soul of Singapore's Peranakan culture. At its southern end is cycle-friendly East Coast Park, dotted with seafood restaurants and bars facing a boat-laden sea.

Geylang

A Street food

A Nightlife

Gateway between heaven and hell, Geylang is as famed for its temples and mosques as it is for its lorong (alley) brothels, girly bars and cheap hotel rooms. Slip in at night for brilliant street food, karaoke and a rush that's more 'cheeky Bangkok' than 'strait-laced Singapore'.

Changi & Pulau Ubin

A Laid-back living

A Changi Museum & Chapel

Laid-back Changi peddles batik fabrics, Indian textiles and harrowing stories of Singapore under Japanese occupation at the moving Changi Museum & Chapel. Further afield, bicycle-friendly Pulau Ubin island channels a long-forgotten Singapore of ramshackle huts, jungle, old plantations and quiet country lanes.

Changi

THANK YOU/GETTY IMAGES ©

Other great places to experience the city like a local:

Chinatown Complex

Colbar

Haji Lane

Jalan Besar

MAAD

PS Cafe

Rex Cinemas

Gillman Barracks

Singapore Turf Club

Sri Muneeswaran Hindu Temple

R

Singapore

Day Planner

Day One

M Start your Singapore fling with a local breakfast of kaya (coconut jam) toast, runny eggs and strong kopi (coffee) at Ya Kun Kaya Toast before a riverside stroll at the Quays for a jaw-dropping panorama of brazen skyscrapers and refined colonial buildings. Dive into the brilliant Asian Civilisations Museum or keep walking to the National Museum of Singapore or the Peranakan Museum for some cultural insight, then fill up on chilli crab at riverside Jumbo Seafood.

R Fingers licked, head to nearby Chinatown to feast your eyes on the technicolor Sri Mariamman Temple and the epic Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Hunt for antiques at Far East Legend or local art at Utterly Art. Done, head straight up Pinnacle@Duxton for a cheap, incredible view of the city, or treat your feet to some reflexology at People's Park Complex.

N Recharged, it's time for Southeast Asian fusion fare and killer cocktails at Ding Dong. Dinner done, catch a taxi to the atmospheric Night Safari, slipping into the dark for a late-night rendezvous with a cast of curious creatures.

Day Two

M Little India will erase every preconceived notion of Singapore as a sterile metropolis. Weathered tailors stitch and sew by the side of the road, and the air is thick with cumin and Bollywood soundtracks. Take in the colours and chanting of Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple and lick your fingers while lunching at Lagnaa Barefoot Dining.

R Escape the afternoon heat in the air-conditioned comfort of Orchard Rd. Hunt down rare Singaporean prints and books at Antiques of the Orient and cognoscenti threads at Robinsons, Reckless Shop, and i.t. Shopped out, it's time for happy hour martinis at Bar on 5 or beers on heritage beauty Emerald Hill Rd.

N If you’re dining at Satay by the Bay, you’re already at Gardens by the Bay. Give yourself plenty of time to explore Singapore’s incredible new botanic gardens, including the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest conservatories. The gardens’ Supertrees are especially spectacular during the nightly light shows (7.45pm and 8.45pm).

Day Three

M The golden-domed Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam is the centrepiece of Singapore’s historic Malay district. Explore the area’s fascinating backstory at the revamped Malay Heritage Centre, housed in a former sultan’s palace, then nibble on beautiful, bubbling wood-fired pizza at nearby Cicheti.

R Spend the afternoon indulging in pure, unadulterated fun on Singapore’s pleasure island, Sentosa. Hit the squeal-inducing rides of Universal Studios, or eye-up creatures great and small at the spectacular S.E.A. Aquarium. Alternatively, ride some artificial waves at Wave House or book an indoor skydive at iFly.

N Slow down the pace with evening drinks on a palm-fringed Sentosa beach. Options include Coastes or the more secluded Tanjong Beach Club. Come dinner, go Greek at marina-side Mykonos on the Bay. If you’re travelling with kids, consider catching the popular Songs of the Sea, a multimillion-dollar sound, light and laser show.

Day Four

M For a taste of 1950s Singapore, head to Changi to catch a bumboat across to Pulau Ubin. Rent a bicycle and cycle the island’s peaceful, jungle-fringed roads, passing tin-shacked houses, quirky shrines and walking along a mangrove boardwalk. There’s even a mountain-bike park with trails for varying skill levels.

R Once you’ve finished exploring sleepy Pulau Ubin, catch a bumboat back to Singapore. If it’s not too late, pay a visit to the moving Changi Museum & Chapel, which recounts the suffering and resilience of those who endured Singapore’s Japanese occupation. If it's too late, wander the shops at Changi Village, stopping for a beer at Coastal Settlement.

N Assuming you've made a reservation, it's time for a decadent degustation dinner at French-inspired Jaan, perched 70 floors above the city. Request a table facing Marina Bay Sands for commanding views of the spectacular nightly light and laser show. End the night at gorgeous rooftop bar Lantern.

Need to Know

Currency

Singapore dollar ($)

Languages

English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil

Visas

Citizens of the USA, UK, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, most European countries and Asean nations (except Myanmar) do not require visas for stays of either 30 or 90 days, depending on the individual country. Other visitors may require visas. See www.ica.gov.sg for specifics.

Money

ATMs are widely available and credit cards are accepted in all hotels and most restaurants.

Mobile Phones

Singapore's two cell networks (GSM900 and GSM1800) are compatible with most of the world. Buy a local SIM card to keep costs down.

Time

Singapore Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus eight hours)

Plugs & Adaptors

Square, three-pin plugs of the type used in the UK; current is 220V to 240V.

Tipping

Largely unexpected and unnecessary.

For more information, see Survival Guide.

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget under $100

A Dorm bed $20–$40

A Meal at hawker centre $3–$10

A Beer at street stall $6

Midrange $100–$350

A Double room in average hotel $100–$250

A Two-course dinner with wine $60

A Cocktail at hip bar $15–$30

Top end over $350

A Four- and five-star double room $250–$500

A Degustation menu at top-tier restaurant $250-plus

A Theatre ticket $150

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/singapore) Destination low-down, hotel bookings.

Your Singapore (www.yoursingapore.com) Tourist site with handy planning feature.

City Nomads (www.citynomads.com) Online guide to what's hot and new in Singapore.

Advance Planning

Two months before Book tickets to the Formula One or to short-run, Broadway-style musicals.

One month before Book a bunk if you plan on staying at a dorm over the weekend. Reserve a table at a top-tier restaurant.

One week before Scan the web for last-minute deals and upcoming festivals. Book a cabana at rooftop bar Lantern.

2Arriving in Singapore

3Getting Around

Public transport is efficient, safe and relatively cheap. Buy an EZ-Link card at MRT train station counters ($12, including a $5 nonrefundable deposit) to save time and money. Cards are valid on both trains and buses, as well as in many taxis. Top up EZ-Link cards with cash or ATM cards at station ticket machines. The minimum top-up value is $10.

m MRT

Local metro with five colour-coded lines. Easiest way to get around (5.30am to midnight).

J Bus

Covers MRT areas and beyond (5.30am–midnight), plus a handful of night services.

K Taxi

Safe, honest and relatively cheap. Flag one at taxi stands or try your luck on the street. Book ahead if travelling in peak hours. Hefty surcharges apply during peak hours and from midnight to 6am.

Singapore

Colonial District, the Quays & Marina Bay

Orchard Road

Chinatown, CBD & Tanjong Pagar

Little India & Kampong Glam

Sentosa

Holland Village & Dempsey Hill

Southwest Singapore

Colonial District, the Quays & Marina Bay

NOTJUSTNUT © PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Colonial District dazzles with its 19th-century buildings, A-list museums and sprawling malls. Just south, the sinuous Singapore River is where you'll find the Quays and their booty of restaurants, bars and clubs. East of here, the river spills into Marina Bay, home to botanical blockbuster Gardens by the Bay and resort, casino, and entertainment-and-dining complex Marina Bay Sands.

The Sights in a Day

M Start the morning with a saunter along the Singapore River, taking in Singapore's dramatic skyline. Right beside the river is the Asian Civilisations Museum, home to a breathtaking collection of artefacts from across Asia. Done, recharge with lip-smacking chilli crab at riverside Jumbo Seafood.

R Take a postprandial stroll though refreshing Fort Canning Park, then continue your cultural enlightenment at the National Museum of Singapore, Peranakan Museum or National Gallery Singapore, all within walking distance of the park. Alternatively, ditch the museums for a little retail therapy at malls like Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands and electronics nirvana Funan DigitaLife Mall.

N Nosh hawker-style at Satay by the Bay, located at the spectacular Gardens by the Bay. Highlights here include the Flower Dome, Cloud Forest and bird's-eye OCBC Skyway. Stay for the sound and light show, Garden Rhapsody, then cap off the evening with a rooftop toast at Lantern or Orgo.

1  Top Sights

National Museum of Singapore

Asian Civilisations Museum

Gardens by the Bay

x  Best of Singapore

Food

Kilo

Jaan

Gluttons Bay

Jumbo Seafood

Drinking

Lantern

Bitters & Love

28 HongKong Street

Level 33

Getting There

m MRT City Hall (Red and Green Lines) and Dhoby Ghaut (Purple, Red and Yellow Lines) are the best MRT stops for the Colonial District. City Hall is connected via underground malls to Esplanade (Yellow Line). Raffles Place (Red and Green Lines) and Clarke Quay (Purple Line) serve the Quays. Marina Bay (Red Line) and Bayfront (Yellow and Blue Lines) service Marina Bay Sands.

1

Top Sights

National Museum of Singapore

Imaginative, prodigiously stocked and brilliantly designed, Singapore's National Museum is good enough to warrant two visits. At once cutting-edge and classical, the museum ditches staid exhibits for lively multimedia galleries that bring Singapore's jam-packed biography to vivid life. It's a colourful, intimate journey, spanning ancient Malay royalty and colonial-era backstabbing to 20th-century rioting, reinvention, food, fashion and film.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.nationalmuseum.sg; 93 Stamford Rd; adult/child $10/5, Living Galleries free 6-8pm; hHistory Gallery 10am-6pm, Living Galleries 10am-8pm; mDhoby Ghaut

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Entry is free to the Living Galleries from 6pm to 8pm daily.

A A 3-Day Museum Pass (adult/family $20/50) offers unlimited admission to six city museums, including this one. Passes can be purchased at the museum.

A The museum is a top choice for thoughtful souvenirs, with gift shop choices including Singapore tomes and locally designed objects such as tees, tote bags, and iPhone covers.

5 Take a Break

For fusion fare, coffee or a cheeky slice of cake, head to the museum's Food for Thought ( GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; mBras Basah, Dhoby Ghaut).

For inspired Chinese dishes, book a table at the antiques-laden Chef Chan's Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.chefchanrestaurant.com.sg; h11.45am-2.30pm & 6.15-10.30pm; mDhoby Ghaut).

Don't Miss

History Gallery

Commencing with a dramatic, 360-degree video installation, the History Gallery offers an evocative multimedia journey through six centuries of Singaporean history. It's a trip that will have you peering into opium dens, eavesdropping on lunching colonial ladies and confronting harrowing tales of Japanese occupation.

Living Galleries

The 'living galleries' offer insight into modern Singaporean culture. Get the low-down on wayang (Javanese puppet theatre), hawker food culture, the link between fashion and women's rights, Singapore's celluloid history and intimate tales of family life.

Goh Seng Choo Gallery

Before his tenure as Singapore's first Resident and Commandant, Colonel William Farquhar (1774–1839) commissioned local artists to illustrate the flora and fauna he had discovered on the Malay Peninsula. These sumptuous watercolours now reside in the Goh Seng Choo Gallery, located beside the Living Galleries.

Art Installations & Architecture

Seven quirky art installations pimp the museum's interior and exterior. Our favourite is Kuhari Nahappan's Pedas Pedas, a giant bronze chilli on the lawn at the back of the complex. The chilli can be seen as a metaphor for Singapore: small and hot, yet powerful and energetic. The museum's superb neoclassical wing, built in 1887 as the Raffles Library and Museum, boasts a breathtaking rotunda, lavished with 50 panels of stained glass.

1

Top Sights

Asian Civilisations Museum

The remarkable Asian Civilisations Museum houses Southeast Asia's most comprehensive collection of pan-Asian treasures. Set over three levels, its beautifully curated galleries explore the history, cultures and religions of Southeast Asia, China, the Indian subcontinent and Islamic West Asia. Prepare to lose yourself in millennia of ancient carvings, magical swords and glittering jewels and textiles. Add to this a revealing exploration of the Singapore River and top-notch temporary exhibitions, and you have yourself one seriously satisfying cultural date.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%6332 7798; www.acm.org.sg; 1 Empress Pl; adult/child $8/4, half-price 7-9pm Fri, incl Peranakan Museum $11/5.50; h10am-7pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; mRaffles Place

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Free, volunteer-run guided tours of selected museum highlights depart from the lobby at 11am, noon and 2pm on weekdays, and at 11am, 2pm and 3pm on weekends. There are additional tours at 1pm Monday and Thursday, and at 7pm on Friday.

A The National Heritage Board's 3-Day Museum Pass (adult/family $20/50) offers unlimited admission to six city museums, including this one. Passes can be purchased here.

5 Take a Break

The museum building is home to IndoChine Waterfront, which serves fresh, zesty Southeast Asian fare, including plenty of vegetarian options.

For a drink with a view, it's an easy walk across the river to gorgeous rooftop bar Lantern.

Don't Miss

Southeast Asia Galleries

Spanning everything from Hindu Buddhist kingdoms to hillside tribes and Javanese performing arts, highlights here include a beautifully illustrated parabaik (folded book), its whimsically colourful scenes a rare porthole into 19th-century Burmese life and architecture.

West Asia Galleries

Don't miss the Chinese Qur'an, which fuses both Chinese and Islamic aesthetics. Look out for the fragments from a 12th- or 13th-century Quran from southern Spain or North Africa, written in cursive Maghribi script.

China Galleries

Look for the richly hued Three Votive Paintings of Luohan, 18th-century silk panels portraying three sages who have realised the Buddhist doctrine (or dharmas). Equally colourful but more action-packed are the Eight Immortals, a 17th-century silk kesi (Chinese tapestry) laden with auspicious symbols.

South Asia Galleries

Beautiful artefacts include an extraordinary 17th-century gameboard made of teak and veneered with exotic woods, ivory and metals. More macabre is a 17th- or 18th-century Tibetan ritual bone apron, made using human and animal bones.

Colonial Architecture

Indian convict labour constructed the museum's home, the Empress Place Building, in 1865 for colonial government offices. It fuses neo-Palladian classicism and tropical touches: timber louvred shutters and a wide shaded porch. The original building covers Southeast Asia and South Asia.

1

Top Sights

Gardens by the Bay

Welcome to the botanic gardens of the future, a fantasyland of space-age bio-domes, high-tech Supertrees and whimsical sculptures. Costing $1 billion and sprawling across 101 hectares of reclaimed land, Gardens by the Bay is more than just a mind-clearing patch of green. It’s an ambitious masterpiece of urban planning, as thrilling to architecture buffs as it is to nature lovers.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%6420 6848; www.gardensbythebay.com.sg; 18 Marina Gardens Dr; gardens free, conservatories adult/child $28/15; h5am-2am, conservatories & OCBC Skyway 9am-9pm; mBayfront

WSBOON IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A The best time to visit is late afternoon or early evening, when the heat softens and the Supertrees become the protagonists of the mesmerising sound and light show Garden Rhapsody, nightly at 7.45pm and 8.45pm.

A A shuttle bus (two rides $2; 9.30am-5pm) runs every five to 10 minutes between Dragon Fly Bridge (near the entrance to Bayfront MRT station), World of Palms (alight here for Supertree Grove), the conservatories, and the Gardens’ main arrival plaza and taxi stand (Carpark B). Purchase tickets on board. Services begin at 12.30pm on the first Monday of the month.

5 Take a Break

Fine dine in the Flower Dome at Pollen. The restaurant also hosts an excellent afternoon tea.

For a cheaper feed, opt for alfresco hawker centre Satay by the Bay.

Don't Miss

The Conservatories

Housing 217,000 plants from 800 species, the Gardens two asymmetrical conservatories rise like giant paper nautilus shells. The larger Flower Dome replicates the dry Mediterranean climates found across the world, while the steamy Cloud Forest dome recreates the tropical montane climate found at elevations between 1500m and 3000m. Its centrepiece is a 35m mountain with waterfall.

Supertree Grove

Science fiction meets botany at the Supertrees, 18 steel-clad concrete structures adorned with over 162,900 plants. These soaring structures are actually massive exhausts for the Gardens’ biomass steam turbines, used to generate electricity to cool the conservatories. For a sweeping view, walk across the 22m-high OCBC Skyway, which connects six of the Supertrees at Supertree Grove. Skyway tickets must be purchased at Supertree Grove (adult/child $5/3, cash only).

Planet Sculpture

The most visually arresting of the Gardens’ numerous artworks is Mark Quinn’s colossal Planet. Created in 2008 and subsequently donated to Gardens by the Bay, the sculpture is of a giant white seven-month-old infant, fast asleep and seemingly floating above the ground. This visual illusion is nothing short of brilliant, especially considering that the bronze bubba actually comes in at a hefty seven tonnes. The work was modelled on Quinn’s very own son.

1 Top Sights

National Museum of Singapore  C1

Asian Civilisations Museum  D4

Gardens by the Bay  H5

1 Sights

1Peranakan Museum  C2

2Singapore Art Museum  D1

3Raffles Hotel  E1

4National Gallery Singapore  D3

5Fort Canning Park  B2

6Battle Box Museum  B1

7St Andrew's Cathedral  D2

8ArtScience Museum  G4

9Singapore Flyer  H3

10G-Max Reverse Bungy  C3

11MINT Museum of Toys  E1

12MICA Building  C3

13Willow Stream  E2

5 Eating

14Kilo  H1

15Jaan  E2

16Gluttons Bay  F3

17Jumbo Seafood  B3

18Satay by the Bay  H4

19Common Man Coffee  A2

20Pollen  H4

21IndoChine Waterfront  D4

22Pizzeria Mozza  F5

23Rasapura Masters  G4

24Jai Thai  E1

6 Drinking

25Lantern  E4

26Bitters & Love  C4

2728 HongKong Street  C4

28Level 33  E5

29Orgo  E3

30New Asia  E2

31Kinki  E5

32Raffles Hotel  E1

33Ronin  C3

34Actors  C3

3 Entertainment

35Zouk  A3

36Attica  B3

37Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay  E3

38Timbrè @ The Substation  C1

39Home Club  C3

40Crazy Elephant  C3

41Singapore Repertory Theatre  A3

7 Shopping

42Raffles Hotel Arcade  E1

43Funan DigitaLife Mall  D2

44Roxy Disc House  D2

45Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands  G4

46Royal Selangor  B3

47Suntec City  F2

48City Link Mall  E2

49Granny's Day Out  D2

Sights

1Peranakan MuseumMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Explore the rich, fusion heritage of the Peranakans (Straits-born locals) at this superlative museum. Thematic galleries cover various aspects of Peranakan culture, from the traditional 12-day wedding ceremony to Peranakan crafts, spirituality and feasting. Look out for extraordinarily detailed ceremonial costumes and beadwork, beautifully carved wedding beds and rare dining porcelain. An especially curious example of the Peranakans' fusion culture is a pair of Victorian bell jars, in which statues of Christ and the Madonna are adorned with Chinese-style flowers and vines.

(%6332 7591; www.peranakanmuseum.sg; 39 Armenian St; adult/child $6/3, half-price 7-9pm Fri, incl Asian Civilisations Museum $11/5.50; h10am-7pm, to 9pm Fri; mCity Hall)

1Singapore Art MuseumMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

SAM houses an engaging collection of Southeast Asian art, with a strong emphasis on modern and contemporary art from Singapore and the broader Asian region. Expect anything, from painting and sculpture to site-specific installations and video art. One highlight is the Wu Guangzhong gallery, which features a rotating exhibition of $70 million worth of art donated by the father of modern Chinese painting.

(SAM; %6589 9580; www.singaporeartmuseum.sg; 71 Bras Basah Rd; adult/student & senior $10/5, free 6-9pm Fri; h10am-7pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; mBras Basah)

1Raffles HotelHISTORIC BUILDING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Yes, it's a cliché, but try resisting the allure of that magnificent ivory frontage, the famous Sikh doorman and the echoes of days when Singapore was a swampy, tiger-tempered outpost of the British Empire. Starting life in 1887 as a modest 10-room bungalow fronting the beach (long gone thanks to land reclamation), Raffles is today one of Singapore's most beautiful heritage sites, laced with quiet tropical gardens, nostalgia-inducing bars and a string of high-quality art galleries and boutiques.

(www.raffleshotel.com; 1 Beach Rd; mCity Hall)

Kitchen at Raffles Hotel

CHRISTIAN ASLUND/GETTY IMAGES ©

1National Gallery SingaporeGALLERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

When it opens in late 2015, the National Gallery Singapore will become the latest major player on the cultural circuit, not to mention the country's largest visual arts venue at 64,000 sq m. Occupying both the former City Hall and Old Supreme Court building, the complex plans to showcase the work of Singaporean and Southeast Asian artists from the 19th century to today, as well as hosting international exhibitions. See the website for updates on the gallery's opening and upcoming exhibitions.

(www.nationalgallery.sg; St Andrew's Rd; mCity Hall)

1Fort Canning ParkPARK

MAP GOOGLE MAP

When Raffles rolled into Singapore and claimed it for the mother country, locals steered clear of Fort Canning Hill, then called Bukit Larangan (Forbidden Hill) out of respect for the sacred shrine of Sultan Iskandar Shah, ancient Singapura's last ruler. These days, the hill is better known as Fort Canning Park, a wonderfully lush, cool retreat from the hot streets below. Stop at the spice garden and take in the scents of tamarind and cinnamon, or ponder Singapore's wartime defeat at the Battle Box Museum.

(www.nparks.gov.sg; mDhoby Ghaut)

1Battle Box MuseumHISTORIC SITE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Visit the former command post of the British during WWII and get lost in the eerie and deathly quiet 26-room underground complex. War veterans and Britain’s Imperial War Museum helped recreate the authentic bunker environs; life-sized models re-enact the fateful surrender to the Japanese on 15 February 1942. Japanese Morse codes are still etched on the walls.

(www.thebattlebox.com; 2 Cox Terrace; adult/child $8/5; h10am-6pm, last entry 5pm; mDhoby Ghaut)

1St Andrew's CathedralCHURCH

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Funded by Scottish merchants and built by Indian convicts, this wedding cake of a cathedral stands in stark contrast to the glass and steel surrounding it. Completed in 1838 but torn down and rebuilt in its present form in 1862 after lightning damage, it's one of Singapore's finest surviving examples of English Gothic architecture. Interesting details include the tropics-friendly porte cochère (carriage porch) entrance – designed to shelter passengers – and the splendid stained glass adorning the western wall.

(www.livingstreams.org.sg; 11 St Andrew's Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; mCity Hall)

1ArtScience MuseumMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Looking like a giant white lotus, the lily-pond-framed ArtScience Museum is well known for hosting major international travelling exhibitions in fields as varied as art, design, media, science and technology. Past shows have included retrospectives of American designers Charles and Ray Eames and photographer Annie Leibovitz.

(www.marinabaysands.com/museum.html; Marina Bay Sands; adult/child $28/16; h10am-7pm; mBayfront)

ArtScience Museum

TOMATOSKIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Singapore FlyerFERRIS WHEEL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Las Vegas' High Roller may have since stolen its 'World's Biggest Observation Wheel' title, but Singapore's 165m-tall ferris wheel continues to serve up a gob-smacking panorama. On a clear day, the 30-minute ride will have you peering out over the Colonial District, CBD and Marina Bay, the high-rise housing sprawl to the east and out to the ship-clogged South China Sea. Purchase tickets online for a modest discount.

(www.singaporeflyer.com.sg; 30 Raffles Ave; adult/senior/child $33/24/21; hticket booth 8am-10pm, wheel 8.30am-10.15pm; mPromenade)

1G-Max Reverse BungyADVENTURE SPORTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Prepare to be strapped into padded chairs inside a metal cage and propelled skyward to a height of 60m at speeds of up to 200km/h before being pulled back down by gravity. Though the ride offers spectacular views to those who can keep their eyes open, it's best avoided by people prone to velocity-induced vomiting.

(www.gmax.com.sg; 3E River Valley Rd; per ride $45; h2pm-late; mClarke Quay)

1MINT Museum of ToysMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Nostalgia rules at this slinky ode to playtime, its four skinny floors home to over 50,000 vintage toys. You'll see everything from rare Flash Gordon comics and supersonic toy guns to original Mickey Mouse dolls and oh-so-wrong golliwogs from 1930s Japan. Stock up on whimsical toys at the lobby shop or celebrate adulthood with a stiff drink at the adjacent Mr Punch Rooftop Bar.

(www.emint.com; 26 Seah St; adult/child $15/7.50; h9.30am-6.30pm; mCity Hall, Bugis)

1MICA BuildingGALLERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

An architectural pin-up famed for its technicolor shutters and neo-Renaissance design, the MICA Building houses a string of well-known commercial art galleries representing successful regional artists. While the most famous of these is Gajah Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gajahgallery.com; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun), be sure to also pop into Art-2 Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.art2.com.sg; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat) and Cape of Good Hope ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6733 3822; www.capeofgoodhope.com.sg; 140 Hill St ; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mClarke Quay).

1Willow StreamSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Spoil yourself silly at this lavish spa, complete with jacuzzis, plunge pools, rooms that puff aromatic steam and staff who will slather good stuff on your face before pushing, prodding and kneading the kinks out of your jetlagged (or shopped-out) body. There's also an in-house salon, covering everything from hair and waxing to manicures and pedicures.

(%6431 5600; www.willowstream.com/singapore; Level 6, Fairmont Hotel, 80 Bras Basah Rd; massage treatments from $149; h7am-10pm, treatments from 9am; mCity Hall)

Understand

Architecture

Despite the wrecking-ball rampage of the 1960s and '70s, Singapore lays claim to a handful of heritage gems. An ever-expanding list of ambitious contemporary projects has the world watching.

Colonial Legacy

As the administrative HQ of British Malaya, Singapore gained a wave of buildings on a scale unprecedented in the colony. European aesthetics dominated, from the neoclassicism of City Hall, the Fullerton Building and the National Museum of Singapore to the Palladian-inspired Empress Building, now home to the Asian Civilisations Museum. While many other buildings adopted these styles, they were often tweaked to better suit the tropical climate, from the porte cochère (carriage porch) of St Andrew's Cathedral to the porticoes of the former St Joseph's Institution, current location of the Singapore Art Museum.

Shophouses

Singapore's narrow-fronted shophouses are among its most distinctive and charming architectural trademarks. Traditionally a ground-floor business topped by one or two residential floors, these contiguous blocks roughly span six styles from the 1840s to the 1960s. The true scene stealers are those built in the so-called Late Shophouse Style, with richly detailed facades often including colourful wall tiles, stucco flourishes, pilasters and elaborately shuttered windows. Fine examples grace Koon Seng Rd in Katong.

Singapore Now

Chinese American IM Pei is behind the iconic brutalist skyscraper OCBC Centre, the silvery Raffles City, and the razor-sharp Gateway twin towers. Britain's Sir Norman Foster designed the UFO-like Expo MRT station and Supreme Court, as well as the new South Beach mixed-used development (opposite Raffles Hotel), its two curving towers sliced with densely planted sky gardens. Designed by local studio Woha, the Parkroyal on Pickering hotel features dramatic hanging gardens, while Israeli-born Moshe Safdie's Marina Bay Sands turns heads with its record-breaking, 340m-long cantilevered Skypark.

y

Top Tip

Street Sculpture

If you like your art free and alfresco, the area offers a healthy crop of public sculptures by acclaimed local and international artists. At Boat Quay, UOB Plaza is home to Salvador Dali's Homage to Newton and Fernando Botero's Bird. Further east along the Singapore River, Cavenagh Bridge is the place for Chong Fat Cheong's First Generation. Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay claims Han Sai Por's Seed sculptures, while further northwest, Millenia Walk harbours Roy Lichtenstein's Six Brushstrokes.

Eating

5KiloFUSION $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Its location might be slightly off the radar (the 2nd floor of an industrial riverside building), but gastro geeks know exactly how to reach this cool and swinging legend. Book ahead to swoon over modern, beautifully textured dishes like salmon sushi with crunchy chicken skin, an earthy wasabi tuna tartare or sublime Italo-Japanese black-and-white prawn ravioli with sake butter.

(%6467 3987; www.kilokitchen.com; 66 Kampong Bugis; sharing plates $15-24, mains $27-39; hrestaurant 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, bar 6pm-1am Wed-Sat; mLavender)

5JaanFRENCH $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Perched 70 floors above the city, chic and intimate Jaan is home to French chef Julien Royer and his show-stopping, contemporary Gallic creations. From amuse-bouches like cèpes sabayon and mushroom tea, to protagonists like hay-roasted Bresse pigeon, flavours are revelatory and the presentation utterly theatrical. Always book ahead, and request a window seat overlooking Marina Bay Sands for a bird’s-eye view of the nightly laser and light show.

(%6837 3322; www.jaan.com.sg; Swissôtel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Rd; lunch/dinner set menus from $68/198; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat, 7-10pm Sun; v; mCity Hall)

5Gluttons BayHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Selected by the Makansutra Food Guide, this row of alfresco hawker stalls is a great place to start your Singapore food odyssey. Get indecisive over classics like oyster omelette, satay, barbecue stingray and carrot cake (opt for the black version). Its central, bayside location makes it a huge hit, so head in early or late to avoid the biggest crowds.

(www.makansutra.com; 01-15 Esplanade Mall; dishes from $4; h3pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun; mEsplanade)

5Jumbo SeafoodCHINESE $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you’re lusting for chilli crab – and you should be – this is a good place to indulge. The gravy is sublimely sweet and nutty, with just the right amount of chilli. Make sure to order some yeasty fried mantou (buns) to soak up the sauce. This branch has the best riverside location.

(%6532 3435; www.jumboseafood.com.sg; 01-01/02 Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Rd; dishes from $12, chilli crab around $55 per kg; hnoon-2.15pm & 6-11.15pm; mClarke Quay)

5Satay by the BayHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Gardens by the Bay's own hawker centre has an enviable location, alongside Marina Bay and far from the roar of city traffic. Especially evocative at night, it's known for its satay, best devoured under open skies on the spacious wooden deck. As you'd expect, prices are a little higher than at more local hawker centres, with most dishes between $8 and $10.

(www.gardensbythebay.com.sg; 18 Marina Gardens Dr, Gardens by the Bay; dishes from $4; hfood stalls 8am-10pm, drinks stall 24hr; mMarina Bay, then bus 400)

5Common Man CoffeeCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

While this airy, industrial-cool cafe roasts and serves top-class coffee, it also serves seriously scrumptious grub. Produce is super fresh and the combinations simple yet inspired, from all-day brekkie winners like green-pea fritters with crispy pancetta and balsamic syrup to a lunchtime tortilla of grilled asparagus, spiced aubergine and goat's cheese.

(www.commonmancoffeeroasters.com; 22 Martin Rd, Robertson Quay; dishes $14-34; h8am-6.30pm; v; g64, 123, 186)

5PollenEUROPEAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Set right inside Garden by the Bay's Flower Dome, Pollen is the Singapore spin-off of Pollen Street Social, London's Michelin-starred darling. While the fine-dining restaurant delivers gorgeous, contemporary European dishes, more fun and accessible is afternoon tea in the cafe; the scones and macarons are worth the trip alone. Book ahead (up to a week ahead on weekends).

(%6604 9988; www.pollen.com.sg; Flower Dome, Gardens by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr; mains $58-68; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun, afternoon tea 3-5pm; v; mBayfront)

5IndoChine WaterfrontSOUTHEAST ASIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

In the same building as the Asian Civilisations Museum, the IndoChine cartel’s riverside operation comes with Boat Quay views and sumptuous surrounds, from Ming Dynasty–inspired chairs to glittering chandeliers. The menu is a long, sophisticated tri-nation affair of Vietnamese-, Cambodian- and Laotian-inspired dishes, with no shortage of vegetarian options. Best of all, your food comes sans MSG, colourings or preservatives.

(%6339 1720; www.indochine.com.sg; Asian Civilisations Museum, 1 Empress Pl; salads $17-26, mains from $18; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 6.30pm-12.30am Fri, 6.30pm-12.30am Sat, 6.30-11.30pm Sun; v; mRaffles Place)

5Pizzeria MozzaITALIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This dough-kneading favourite is co-owned by New York super chef Mario Batali, and it's one of the few celebrity chef eateries at Marina Bay Sands that won't have you mortgaging your house. While both the antipasti and pasta dishes should appease the pickiest nonnas, the star turn is the wood-fired pizzas, with big crispy crusts to die for.

(The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Bayfront Ave; pizzas $20-30, salads $10-22; hnoon-11pm; mBayfront)

5Rasapura MastersFOOD COURT $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you prefer your hawker grub with air-con and a flanking ice-skating rink, head down to this slick, sprawling food court in the basement of the Marina Bay Sands mall. Its stalls cover most bases, from Japanese ramen and Korean kimchi to Hong Kong roast meats and local Bak Kut Teh pork-rib soup.

(www.rasapura.com.sg; Level B2, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Ave; dishes from $5; mBayfront)

5Jai ThaiTHAI $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

On a street studded with reputable eateries, lo-fi Jai Thai peddles cheap, tasty Thai under the gaze of Siamese royalty. Grab a pavement table and channel Bangkok with fragrant green curry chicken or mouth-watering fried prawns in a sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce. Like it hot? Slurp a bowl of fiery tom yum soup (order the shrimp version). Cash only.

(www.jai-thai.com; 27 Purvis St; dishes $5-16; h11.30am-3pm & 6-9.30pm; mCity Hall)

l

Local Life

Cult of Yet Con

Perpetually packed, Yet Con ( GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Purvis St; chicken rice $5.50; h10am-10pm; mCity Hall) has been serving up superlative Hainanese chicken rice since 1940. Don't come expecting designer decor or charming service. Just come for the chicken, which is tender, full of flavour and served by stern-looking aunties to faithful suits, old-timers and geeky 20-something food nerds. Don't be put off by the crowds – turnover is fast.

Drinking

6LanternROOFTOP BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It may be lacking in height and it serves its drinks in plasticware (scanadalous!), but Lantern remains a magical spot for a sophisticated evening toast. Why? There's the flickering lanterns, the shimmering, glass-sided pool (for Fullerton Bay Hotel guests only), and the romantic views over Marina Bay. To avoid disappointment, consider booking a table two to three days ahead.

(%6597 5299; Fullerton Bay Hotel, 80 Collyer Quay; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, 8am-2am Fri & Sat; mRaffles Place)

6Bitters & LoveCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

When the drinks are this good, you don't need signage to draw the crowds. Lurking behind top-notch eatery Shoebox Canteen, this intimate cocktail den is home to some of the city's top barkeeps, who stir, shake and slurp local-twist libations such as the rum-based, tea-infused Kaya Toast. Peckish? Swoon over buttery Wagyu Beef Cubes or get decadent with seasonal live oysters.

(www.bittersandlove.com; 36 North Canal Rd; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mClarke Quay)

628 HongKong StreetCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Softly lit 28HKS plays hide-and-seek inside an unmarked '60s shophouse. Slip inside and into a slinky scene of cosy booths and passionate mixologists turning grog into greatness. Marked with their date of origin, cocktails are seamless and sublime, among them an award-winning Whore's Bath, pimped with Baby's Breath. House-barreled classics, hard-to-find beers and lip-smacking comfort grub seal the deal.

(%6533 2001; www.28hks.com; 28 Hongkong St; h5.30pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mClarke Quay)

6Level 33MICROBREWERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

In a country obsessed with unique selling points, this one takes the keg. Laying claim to being the world's highest 'urban craft-brewery', Level 33 brews its own lager, pale ale, stout, porter and wheat beer. But we can live with the hyperbole as long as the views are this good and the beer crisp and cold.

(www.level33.com.sg; Level 33, Marina Bay Financial Tower 1, 8 Marina Blvd; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat; W; mDowntown)

6OrgoROOFTOP BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It's hard not to feel like the star of a Hollywood rom-com at rooftop Orgo, its view of the skyline so commanding you'll almost feel obliged to play out a tear-jerking scene. Don't. Instead, slip into a wicker armchair, order a glass of vino (hell, order a cigar as well!) and Instagram the view to the sound of soft conversation and sultry tunes.

(%6336 9366; www.orgo.sg; 4th fl, Esplanade Roof Tce, 8 Raffles Ave; h6pm-1.30am; mEsplanade)

6New AsiaCLUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Martinis demand dizzying skyline views and few deliver like this sleek bar-club hybrid, perched 71 floors above street level. A classic go-to for the cabin crew crowd, it's worth heading in early for sundowners before shaking your booty on the dance floor. Smart casual dress.

(Swissôtel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Rd; admission $25; h5pm-1am Sun-Tue, to 2am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mCity Hall)

6KinkiBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

While Kinki's restaurant is justifiably known for its sushi, it's the rooftop bar one floor up that takes the cake. Pimped with graffiti panels and video projections, its sweep takes in Marina Bay Sands and its twice-nightly light and laser spectacular. Music levels allow for conversation and, despite the knockout location, the vibe is rarely obnoxious.

(www.kinki.com.sg; 02-02 Customs House, 70 Collyer Quay; mRaffles Place)

6Raffles HotelBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Granted, drink prices are exorbitant, but there's something undeniably fabulous about an afternoon cocktail at Singapore's most iconic hotel. Ditch the gloomy, cliched Long Bar for the fountain-graced Raffles Courtyard or sip Raj-style on the verandah at the Bar & Billiard Room. Tip: pass on the sickly sweet Singapore Sling for something more palatable, like the Autumn Sling.

(www.raffles.com; 1 Beach Rd; h11am-11pm; mCity Hall)

Singapore Sling, Raffles Hotel

CHRISTIAN ASLUND/GETTY IMAGES ©

6RoninCAFE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Ronin hides its talents behind a dark, tinted glass door. Walk through and the brutalist combo of grey concrete, exposed plumbing and low-slung lamps might leave you expecting some tough-talking interrogation. Thankfully, the only thing you'll get slapped with is sucker-punch Genovese coffee, T2 speciality teas and simple, solid cafe grub like fantastic French toast and gourmet panini. Cash only.

(17 Hongkong St; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun; mClarke Quay)

6ActorsBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Every night is open-mic night at Actors, where customers are given the chance to get up and play music on one of the several assembled instruments laid out for jamming. Just the place to let your inner Elvis out!

(%6535 3270; www.actorsthejambar.com; 13A-15A South Bridge Rd; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; mClarke Quay)

Understand

The Singapore Sling

Granted, it tastes like cough syrup, but there's no denying the celebrity status of Singapore's most famous mixed drink. Created by Raffles Hotel barman Ngiam Tong Boon, the Singapore sling first hit the bar in 1915. It's said that the recipe was so prized that it was locked up in a safe at the hotel for years. The secret has long been out: 30mL gin, 15mL Heering cherry liqueur, 120mL pineapple juice, 15mL lime juice, 7.5mL Cointreau, 7.5mL Dom Benedictine, 10mL Grenadine, and a dash of Angostura bitters, shaken with ice, decanted into a highball glass and garnished with a cherry. In 2010 the    Straits Times newspaper called upon Albert Yam, the great-grand-nephew of the cocktail's creator, to judge the city's best Sling. Top of the list was hotel bar ta.ke ( GOOGLE MAP ; Studio M Hotel, 3 Nanson Rd; h6pm-1am Mon-Sat). Bottom of the list? The Sling's most famous venue, Long Bar at Raffles Hotel.

Entertainment

6ZoukCLUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Ibiza-inspired Zouk is still one of Singapore's favourite clubs, with five bars, a multilevel dance floor and no shortage of coveted, globe-trotting DJs manning the decks. You'll also find alfresco Zouk Wine Bar, hip-hop-centric Phuture and plush club-meets-lounge Velvet Underground, pimped with original artworks from Andy Warhol, Frank Stella and Takashi Murakami. Take a taxi and be prepared to queue.

(www.zoukclub.com; 17 Jiak Kim St; hZouk 10pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat, Phuture & Velvet Underground 9pm-late Wed, Fri & Sat, Wine Bar 6pm-2am Tue, 6pm-3am Wed & Thu, 6pm-4am Fri & Sat; g5, 16, 64, 75, 123, 175, 186, 195)

6AtticaCLUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Attica has secured a loyal following among Singapore's fickle clubbers, modelling itself on New York's hippest clubs but losing the attitude somewhere over the Pacific. Locals will tell you it's where the expats go to pick up on the weekends, mostly in the courtyard. Beats span chart hits, house, electro and R&B; check the website for themed nights.

(www.attica.com.sg; 01-03 Clarke Quay, 3A River Valley Rd; hAttica 10.30pm-4am Wed, Fri & Sat, to 3am Thu; Attica Too 11pm-5am Wed, 11pm-5.30am Fri & Sat; mClarke Quay)

3Esplanade – Theatres on the BayARTS CENTRE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Home of the esteemed Singapore Symphony Orchestra (SSO), Singapore's architecturally striking arts centre includes an 1800-seater state-of-the-art concert hall, a 1940-seater theatre and an action-packed program spanning music, theatre and dance, including performances by the Singapore Dance Theatre. Check the website for upcoming events, which include regular free concerts, and don't miss an evening tipple at sultry rooftop bar Orgo.

(%6828 8377; www.esplanade.com; 1 Esplanade Dr; h10am-6pm; mEsplanade, City Hall)

3Timbrè @ The SubstationLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Young ones are content to queue for seats at this popular live-music venue, whose daily rotating roster features local bands and singer-songwriters playing anything from pop and rock to folk. Hungry punters can fill up on soups, salads, tapas and passable fried standbys like buffalo wings and truffle fries.

(www.timbre.com.sg; 45 Armenian St; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mCity Hall)

3Crazy ElephantLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Anywhere that bills itself as 'crazy' should set the alarm bells ringing, but you won't hear them once you're inside. This touristy rock bar is beery, blokey, loud, graffiti-covered and testosterone heavy – rock on!

(www.crazyelephant.com; 01-03/04, Clarke Quay; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mClarke Quay)

Live music, Crazy Elephant

PAUL KENNEDY/GETTY IMAGES ©

3Singapore Repertory TheatreTHEATRE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Based at the DBS Arts Centre, but also performing at other venues, the SRT produces international repertory standards, as well as modern Singaporean plays. The company's Shakespeare in the Park series, enchantingly set in Fort Canning Park, is deservedly popular. Check the website for upcoming productions.

(%6733 8166; www.srt.com.sg; DBS Arts Centre, 20 Merbau Rd; g64, 123, 143, mClarke Quay)

Understand

Kopi Culture

Single-origin beans and syphon brews may be all the rage among local hipsters, but Singapore's old-school    kopitiams (coffeeshops) deliver the real local deal. Before heading in, it's a good idea to learn the lingo. Kopi means coffee with condensed milk, kopi-o is black coffee with sugar, while kopi-c gets you coffee with evaporated milk and sugar. If you need some cooling down, opt for a kopi-peng (iced coffee). Replace the word kopi with teh, and you have the same variations for tea. One local tea concoction worth sipping is teh tarik – literally 'pulled tea', it's a sweet spiced Indian tea.

Understand

Quays of the City

The stretch of riverfront that separates the Colonial District from the CBD is known as the Quays.

Boat Quay Boat Quay was once Singapore's centre of commerce, and remained an important economic area into the 1960s. The area became a major entertainment district in the 1990s, filled with tourist-targeted restaurants, bars and shops. The streets behind the main strip are infinitely more interesting, with local restaurants and somewhat seedy bars.

Clarke Quay How much time you spend in Clarke Quay really depends upon your personal sense of aesthetics – those who love pastels will swoon, those who don't will cringe. Packed with bars, clubs and restaurants, the place is chock-a-block at night. The best ones invariably have the longest queues.

Robertson Quay At the furthest reach of the river, Robertson Quay was once used for goods storage. Now some of the old godown (river warehouses) have been sexed up into flash members-only party spots and bars, though it's more low-key and grown-up than its counterparts downriver. You'll also find several savvy restaurants clustered around here.

Shopping

7Raffles Hotel ArcadeMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Part of the hotel complex, Raffles Hotel Arcade is home to some rather notable retailers. You'll find quality, affordable souvenirs at Raffles Hotel Gift Shop (the vintage hotel posters are great buys), high-end Singaporean and Malaysian art at Chan Hampe and inspired, independent fashion labels and accessories for men and women at Front Row.

(www.raffles.com; 328 North Bridge Rd; mCity Hall)

7Funan DigitaLife MallELECTRONICS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hardwire yourself across six floors of electronics, camera and computer stores. Funan is a better bet than Sim Lim Square if you don't know exactly what you're doing. You can find almost anything at the massive Challenger Superstore, which occupies the 6th floor. For cameras, visit family-run John 3:16.

(www.funan.com.sg; 109 North Bridge Rd; mCity Hall)

7Roxy Disc HouseMUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Squeeze into Roxy's skinny aisles and scan the shelves of top-notch vinyl, both new and used, as well as CDs. Jazz and blues make up the bulk of the offerings, with both English- and Chinese-language collectors' editions thrown into the mix. You'll find the shop on the 3rd floor of the Adelphi, a lo-fi mall packed with audio equipment shops.

(%6336 6192; 03-42, The Adelphi, 1 Coleman St; h1-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-8pm Sun; mCity Hall)

7Shoppes at Marina Bay SandsMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You'll find all the 'it' brands at this sprawling temple of aspiration, including runway royalty such as Prada, Miu Miu and Fendi. Many people who visit cloister themselves in the dungeon-like casino, leaving the mall relatively thin on crowds – good news if you're not a fan of the Orchard Rd pandemonium.

(www.marinabaysands.com; 10 Bayfront Ave; mBayfront)

Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands

PETER PTSCHELINZEW/GETTY IMAGES ©

7Royal SelangorGIFTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Malaysia's pewter specialists might not rank high on the hip list – think the kind of personalised tankards your uncle uses for his real ale – but don't discount their jewellery, with some items that might even suit painfully fashionable teens.

(www.royalselangor.com.sg; 01-01 Clarke Quay; mClarke Quay)

7Suntec CityMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Vast, bewildering and often frustratingly inaccessible, Suntec has no shortage of retail hits, including Uniqlo, Fossil, Kiehl's and Aesop, not to mention over 50 restaurants, cafes, food courts and a sprawling branch of supermarket Giant Hyper. The star turn is the Fountain of Wealth, declared the World's Largest Fountain (though not Most Attractive) in the Guinness Book of Records.

(www.sunteccity.com.sg; 3 Temasek Blvd; mPromenade, Esplanade)

7City Link MallMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Designed by New York's Kohn Pederson Fox, this seemingly endless tunnel of retail and food outlets links City Hall MRT station with Suntec City and the Esplanade. It's a handy means of escaping searing sun or teeming rain, and a comfortable way of getting into the city from the Marina Bay hotels.

(1 Raffles Link; h10am-10pm; mCity Hall)

7Granny’s Day OutFASHION

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Aptly set inside très-retro Peninsula Shopping Centre, Granny's Day Out peddles a fabulous, ever-changing booty of vintage clothes, shoes and accessories from the '50s to the '80s. Sorry guys, unless you're into cross-dressing, these goods are just for the ladies.

(%6336 9774; www.grannysdayout.com; 03-25 Peninsula Shopping Centre, 3 Coleman St; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-6.30pm Sun; mCity Hall)

Understand

Singlish, lah!

While Singapore's official languages are Malay, Mandarin, Tamil and English, its unofficial lingua franca is Singlish. Essentially an English dialect mixed with Hokkien, Malay and Tamil, it's spoken in a rapid, staccato fashion, with sentences polished off with innumerable but essentially meaningless exclamatory words –    lah is the most common, but you'll also hear mah, lor, meh, leh, hor and several others. Other trademarks include a long stress on the last syllable of phrases, while words ending in consonants are often syncopated and vowels distorted. What is Perak Rd to you, may well be Pera Roh to your Chinese-speaking taxi driver. Verb tenses? Forget them. Past, present and future are indicated instead by time indicators, so in Singlish it's 'I go tomorrow' or 'I go yesterday'. For more, check out the Coxford Singlish Dictionary on the satirical website Talking Cock (www.talkingcock.com).

l

Local Life

Little Burma

Hop off at City Hall MRT station, cross North Bridge Rd, and you might just think you've hit a vertical Yangon. In truth you're in Peninsula Plaza mall ( GOOGLE MAP ; 111 North Bridge Rd; mCity Hall), Singapore's unofficial 'Little Burma'. Among the moneychangers, camera shops and sprawling Bata shoe shop is a legion of Burmese businesses, from visa and travel agencies to cluttered tailors and minimarts, stalls selling sweet Burmese tea, and even betel nut stands peddling folded leaves of the mild stimulant. For a mouthwatering Burmese feed, head to basement Inle Myanmar.

Orchard Road

KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Shopping is Singapore's national sport and Orchard Rd is its Olympic-sized training ground. What was once a dusty road lined with spice plantations and orchards is now a torrent of malls, department stores and speciality shops; enough to burn out the toughest shopaholics. But wait, there's more, including drool-inducing food courts and a heritage-listed side street rocking with bars.

The Sights in a Day

M Breakfast at Kith Cafe or Wild Honey before stocking up on edgy local fashion at Reckless Shop. Head west along the south side of Orchard Rd and pop into Ngee Ann City for books at Kinokuniya, Wisma Atria for street-chic shopping at i.t and futuristic ION Orchard Mall for macaroons at TWG Tea. At the end of Orchard Rd, make a quick detour for Antiques of the Orient, then head back east along the north side of Orchard Rd.

R For lunch, nibble, slurp and swallow Singapore's best xiao long bao (soup dumplings) at Din Tai Fung or tuck into authentic Indonesian at Tambuah Mas, both inside luxe mall Paragon. If you're still on a retail high, bag more cognoscenti labels at Robinsons. Alternatively, give your body some TLC at Tomi Foot Reflexology or decadent Remède Spa.

N After 5pm, rehydrate with cut-price martinis at Bar on 5, kick back at Bar Canary or drink among heritage buildings on Emerald Hill Rd. If you don't have a reservation at Euro-Japanese superstar Iggy's, squeeze into sushi bolthole Wasabi Tei for an in-the-know feed.

x  Best of Singapore

Shopping

ION Orchard Mall

313@Somerset

Antiques of the Orient

Paragon

Reckless Shop

Food

Iggy's

Takashimaya Food Village

Din Tai Fung

Food Republic

Tambuah Mas

Tim Ho Wan

Wild Honey

Getting There

m MRT Orchard Rd is served by no less than three MRT stations: Orchard (Red Line), Somerset (Red Line) and Dhoby Ghaut (Red, Purple and Yellow Lines). There's really no need to use other forms of transport to get here.

1 Sights

1Emerald Hill Rd  F3

2Cathay Gallery  H4

3Tan Yeok Nee House  G4

4Remède Spa  A2

5Tomi Foot Reflexology  D3

5 Eating

6Iggy's  B2

7Din Tai Fung  D3

8Tim Ho Wan  G4

9Food Republic  C3

10Killiney Kopitiam  F4

11Tambuah Mas  D3

12Wild Honey  D3

13StraitsKitchen  C2

14Wasabi Tei  C2

15Kith Cafe  H5

16Buona Terra  D1

17Bodega y Tapas  B2

Providore  D3

18Mustard Incident  C2

19Gelateria Italia  C3

6 Drinking

20Néktar  D1

21Bar Canary  D3

22KPO  F4

23Bar on 5  D3

24TWG Tea  C3

25Cuscaden Patio  B2

7 Shopping

26ION Orchard Mall  C3

27313@Somerset  E4

28Ngee Ann City  D3

29Antiques of the Orient  A2

30Reckless Shop  F4

31Paragon  D3

32i.t  C3

33Robinsons  E3

34Forum  B2

35On Pedder  C2

36Rockstar  H4

Sights

1Emerald Hill RdNEIGHBOURHOOD

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Take time out from your shopping to wander up frangipani-scented Emerald Hill Rd, graced with some of Singapore's finest terrace houses. Special mentions go to No 56 (built in 1902, and one of the earliest buildings here), Nos 39 to 45 (with unusually wide frontages and a grand Chinese-style entrance gate) and Nos 120 to 130 (with art deco features dating from around 1925).

(mSomerset)

Terrace houses, Emerald Hill Rd

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Cathay GalleryMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Film and nostalgia buffs will appreciate this pocket-sized silver-screen museum, housed in Singapore's first high-rise building. The displays trace the history of the Loke family, early pioneers in film production and distribution in Singapore and founders of the Cathay Organisation. Highlights include old movie posters, cameras and programs that capture the golden age of local cinema.

(www.thecathaygallery.com.sg; 2 Handy Rd, 2nd fl, The Cathay; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; mDhoby Ghaut)

1Tan Yeok Nee HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Singapore's sole surviving example of a traditional Chinese mansion, the elegant Tan Yeok Nee House was built in 1885 as the townhouse of a prosperous merchant. Today it's part of the Asian campus of the University of Chicago Booth School of Business. While it's not open to the public, you can still admire its fine roof decoration and peek at its tranquil courtyard from the entrance.

(101 Penang Rd; mDhoby Ghaut)

1Remède SpaSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Reputed to have the best masseurs in town, the St Regis Hotel's in-house spa is the kind of place where indulgent therapies meet chilled champagne, TWG teas and chocolates. The Wet Lounge – a marbled wonderland of steam room, sauna, ice fountains and jacuzzis – makes for a perfect prelude to standout treatments like the 90-minute Warm Jade Stone Massage.

(%6506 6896; www.remedespasingapore.com; St Regis Hotel, 29 Tanglin Rd; 1hr massage from $180; h9am-10pm; mOrchard)

1Tomi Foot ReflexologyMASSAGE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Yes, that's Sting in the photo – even he knows about this no-frills massage joint, lurking in the basement of '70s throwback Lucky Plaza. Head down for one of the best rubs in town, provided by a tactile team in matching pink polos. Techniques include acupressure and shiatsu, all approved by Jesus and Mary, hanging on the wall.

(B1-114, Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard Rd; 30min foot reflexology $30; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

Understand

Thai'd to Tradition

With new shopping malls being shoehorned into every available space on Orchard Rd, why, many visitors ask, does the Thai embassy occupy such large, prominent grounds in an area of staggeringly expensive real estate? Back in the 1990s, the Thai government was reportedly offered $139 million for the site, but they turned it down because selling the land, bought by Thailand for $9000 in 1893 by the revered King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), would be seen as an affront to his memory. And so, happily, it remains, drooled over by frustrated developers.

y

Top Tip

A Green Escape

When retail fatigue creeps up on you, take solace in the rainforest. Believe it or not, you'll find one within 2km of Orchard Rd, within the grounds of the sublime Botanic Gardens. So if you're longing for a green escape from the mall madness, hop on bus 7 or 174 from the Orchard MRT exit on Orchard Blvd and you'll be breathing easy in 10 to 20 minutes.

Eating

5Iggy’sINTERNATIONAL $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Iggy's dark, luxe design promises something special, and head chef Akmal Anuar delivers with his arresting Italo-Japanese creations. As beautiful to look at as they are to eat, you might see burrata cheese paired with ginger, or soft angel hair pasta set off against crunchy sakura prawns. Mere mortals don't eat like this every day, so treat yourself.

(%6732 2234; www.iggys.com.sg; Level 3, Hilton Hotel, 581 Orchard Rd; 3-course lunch $85, set dinner menus $195-275; hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Fri & 7-9.30pm Mon-Sat; v; mOrchard)

5Din Tai FungCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This outlet of the prolific Taiwanese chain was the first to open in Singapore. Years later, its mere mention still leaves dumpling die-hards in a drooling mess. Scan the menu and tick your choices, which should include the cult-status xiao long bao and the shrimp-and-pork wonton soup. The free-flow jasmine tea is a welcome touch.

(www.dintaifung.com.sg; B1-03/06, Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd; buns from $1.20, dumplings from $7.30; h10am-11pm; mSomerset)

5Tim Ho WanCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hong Kong's Michelin-starred dumpling peddler is now steaming in Singapore, with the same queues (head in after 8.30pm) and tick-the-boxes order form. While nothing compares to the original, the recipes are the same and the results still pretty spectacular. Must-trys include the sugary baked buns with BBQ pork and the plump prawn dumplings.

(01-29A/52, Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard Rd; dishes from $3.80; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun; mDhoby Ghaut)

5Food RepublicFOOD COURT $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A cornucopia of local food. Muck in with the rest of the crowd for seats before joining the longest queues. Roving ‘aunties’ push around trolleys filled with drinks and dim sum.

(Level 4, Wisma Atria, 435 Orchard Rd; dishes $6-10; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; mOrchard)

5Killiney KopitiamCOFFEESHOP $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

White wall tiles, fluorescent lights and endearingly lame laminated jokes: this old-school coffee joint is still the place for a Singaporean breakfast of kaya (coconut jam) toast, soft-boiled eggs and sucker-punch coffee. Post-breakfast, chow down staples like chicken curry, laksa or nasi lemak (coconut rice, dried anchovies and spices wrapped in a banana leaf) before sampling one of the sweet-dumpling desserts.

(67 Killiney Rd; dishes $2-7; h6am-11pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 6pm Tue & Sun; mSomerset)

5Tambuah MasINDONESIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hiding shyly in a corner of the Paragon's food-packed basement, Tambuah Mas is where Indonesian expats head for a taste of home. Bright, modern and good value, it proudly makes much of what it serves from scratch, a fact well evident in what could possibly be Singapore's best beef rendang. No reservations, so head in early if dining Thursday to Saturday.

(%6733 2220; www.tambuahmas.com.sg; 290 Orchard Rd, B1-44, Paragon; mains $7-25; h11am-10pm; W; mSomerset)

5Wild HoneyCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Paging Tribeca with its faux brickwork and exposed plumbing, Wild Honey peddles scrumptious, all-day breakfasts from around the world, from the tofu-laced Californian to the shakshouka-spiced Tunisian. Other options include muffins and cakes, gourmet sandwiches and freshly roasted coffee. Get there before 9.30am on weekends or prepare to wait. You’ll find a larger branch inside Scotts Square mall, just off Orchard Rd.

(www.wildhoney.com.sg; 03-02, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Rd; breakfast $12-24; h9am-9pm, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v; mSomerset)

5StraitsKitchenHAWKER CENTRE $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The hawker centre goes glam at the Grand Hyatt's highly regarded buffet, as popular with locals as it is with out-of-towners. It's a perfect introduction to the region's classic dishes, from satay, laksa and char kway teow to rendang and murtabak. Come early and with an empty stomach to get value for money, and stick to the drinks included in the price (add-ons can be exorbitant).

(%6738 1234; www.singapore.grand.hyattrestaurants.com/straitskitchen; Grand Hyatt, 10 Scotts Rd; buffet lunch/dinner $45/55; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun; mOrchard)

5Wasabi TeiJAPANESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Channelling 1972 with its Laminex countertop and wooden wall panels, this tiny, cash-only sushi bar feels like a scrumptious local secret. Stake a spot at the counter and watch the Chinese chef prove that you don't have to be Japanese to make raw fish sing with flavour. Note: the newer sibling restaurant next door is no substitute for the original.

(05-70, Far East Plaza, 14 Scotts Rd; meals $10-28; h12.30-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-4.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm Sat; mOrchard)

5Kith CafeCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Kith kicks butt on several levels. It opens when many Singapore cafes are still snoozing, it offers free wi-fi and cool magazines, the coffee is good (they have soy!) and the grub fresh and tasty. All-day breakfast items span virtuous muesli to cheeky egg-based slap-ups, and both the salads and sandwiches pique interest with their gourmet combos.

(%6338 8611; kith.com.sg; 9 Penang Rd; dishes $6-24; h8am-10pm Tue-Sun; Wv; mDhoby Ghaut)

5Buona TerraITALIAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You'll find no more than 10 linen-lined tables at this good-looking Italian. In the kitchen, young Lombard chef Denis Lucchi turns exceptional ingredients into elegant, modern dishes such as house-made pappardelle pasta with wagyu short ribs, morel and Fontina cream. Lucchi's right-hand man is Emilian sommelier Gabriele Rizzardi, whose wine list, though expensive, is extraordinary.

(%6733 0209; www.scotts29.com/buonaterra; 29 Scotts Rd; 3/4/5/6 courses $88/108/128/148; h6-10.15pm Mon-Sat; mNewton)

5Bodega y TapasTAPAS $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

At a busy junction, this contemporary bar-bistro channels España with breezy guitar riffs, splashes of Spanish red and beautiful tapas. Portions are generous (three tapas per person should suffice) and flavours simple and satisfying. The Iberico ham croquettes are velvety perfection, while the sizzling garlic prawns come with a welcome baguette to mop up all that oily, garlicky goodness.

(esmirada.com; 442 Orchard Rd; tapas $7-19, mains $22-44; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; mOrchard)

5ProvidoreCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Waiting for you at the top of Mandarin Gallery's outdoor escalator is the Providore: a cool, upbeat cafe pimped with white tiles, industrial details and shelves neatly stocked with gourmet pantry fillers. Sip a full-bodied latte or scan the menu for an all-bases list of options, from organic muesli and pancakes to gourmet salads, sandwiches and a carbalicious lobster mac and cheese.

(%6732 1565; www.theprovidore.com; 02-05, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Rd; dishes $8.50-26.50; h9am-10.30pm; W; mSomerset)

5Mustard IncidentAMERICAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Lurking in the basement of Tangs department store, this hole-in-the-wall hot-dog vendor makes all its sausages, condiments and sauces from scratch. Bust your jaw on the epic Frankenstein (pork and beef sausage, streaky bacon, chilli, garlic sauce and hot sauce) or go lighter with the satisfying Chicago dog, topped with fresh diced tomato.

(B1, Tangs Orchard, 310 Orchard Rd; hot dogs $9-10; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 11pm Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sun; mOrchard)

5Gelateria ItaliaICE CREAM $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Lick yourself silly at this mouth-watering gelato stall, deep within the bowels of ION Orchard mall. Free of nasty chemicals, preservatives and artificial colours or flavours, its luscious offerings include an obscenely rich dark truffle chocolate and a pistachio that – wait for it – actually tastes like pistachio!

(B4-K1, ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn; ice cream from $5.40; h11am-10.30pm; mOrchard)

l

Local Life

Food Court Flavours

Burrow into the basement of most malls on Orchard Rd and you’ll find a food court with stall upon stall selling cheap, freshly cooked dishes from all over the world. One of the best is slick, sprawling Takashimaya Food Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; B2, Takashimaya Department Store, Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd; snacks from $1; h10am-11pm; mOrchard), which serves up a who’s who of Japanese, Korean and other Asian culinary classics. Look out for soon kueh (steamed dumplings stuffed with bamboo shoots, bangkwang, dried mushroom, carrot and dried prawn), and don’t miss a fragrant bowl of noodles from the Tsuru-koshi stand.

Shopping centre food court

JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Drinking

6NéktarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Think Néktar and think well-crafted cocktails in an intimate, colonial setting. Sink into a wicker chair on the back patio with a Cointreau-spiked, bitter chocolate martini. Admittedly, the drinks are pricier than at many comparable venues, but the romantic setting makes for a blissful escape from Orchard Rd's overstimulation.

(nektar.com.sg; 31 Scotts Rd; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat; mNewton)

6Bar CanaryBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Canary yellow sofas, tropical foliage and the evening sound of humming traffic and screeching birds – alfresco Bar Canary hovers high above the Orchard Rd madness. It's a chic, moody spot for an evening tipple, with attentive staff and well-positioned fans. Book six weeks ahead for their legendary Wednesday Ladies' Night deal: free-flow Veuve followed by half-priced drinks all night.

(www.parkhotelgroup.com/orchard/dining/bar-canary; Park Hotel Orchard, 270 Orchard Rd, entry on Bideford Rd; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mSomerset)

6KPOBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It may no longer be such a see-and-be-seen place, but KPO remains a solid spot to kick back with a beer, especially on the rooftop terrace. It's a contemporary tropical space, with concrete walls, timber detailing and no shortage of greenery. It's also the only bar in town with an attached post office.

(www.imaginings.com.sg; 1 Killiney Rd; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 6pm-2am Sat; mSomerset)

6Bar on 5BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This slinky hotel bar has one of the best happy hour deals in town: smooth, well-crafted martinis for under $10 a pop. Purists should forego the flavoured versions on the menu and request a classic dry instead. Drink specials run from 5pm to 9pm, accompanied by a largely middle-management crowd and eclectic tunes spanning ABBA to Rihanna.

(Mandarin Orchard, 333 Orchard Rd; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mSomerset)

6TWG TeaTEAHOUSE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Posh tea purveyor TWG peddles over 800 single-estate teas and blends from around the world, from English Breakfast to Rolls Royce varieties like Da Hong Pao from Fujian. Savour the flavour with a few tea-infused macarons – the bain de roses is divine. There's a second outlet one floor down.

(www.twgtea.com; 02-21, ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Rd; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

6Cuscaden PatioBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This rundown basement bar with a small, open-air patio shouldn't be any good, but extra-friendly staff and extra-cheap drinks ensure it's as popular as any of the shiny bars around Orchard Rd. Cut-price beer deals mean you can sink a mug of San Miguel for as little as $5.90. On Tuesday nights, jugs of beer are yours for $13.

(B1-11, Ming Arcade, 21 Cuscaden Rd; h3pm-1am Mon, Wed & Thu, to 2am Tue, to 3am Fri & Sat; mOrchard)

l

Local Life

Emerald Hill Rd

Housed in century-old Peranakan shophouses, Emerald Hill Rd's cluster of bars are popular with the after-work crowd. Top billing goes to neon-pimped Ice Cold Beer ( GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Emerald Hill Rd; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mSomerset), a raucous, boozy dive bar with dart boards, pool table and tongue-in-cheek soft-core pinups on the wall. It’s a come-as-you-are kind of place where you don’t have to be 20-something to have a rocking good time. Good happy-hour deals run from 5pm to 9pm, and it’s especially kicking on Friday nights.

Shopping

7ION Orchard MallMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Futuristic ION is the cream of Orchard Rd malls. Rising directly above Orchard MRT Station, its cleverly designed floors are busy without feeling packed. Basement floors focus on mere-mortal high-street labels like Zara and Uniqlo, while upper-floor tenants read like the index of Vogue. The attached 56-storey tower offers a top-floor, take-it-or-leave-it viewing gallery, ION Sky (www.ionsky.com.sg; ticket counter level 4; adult/child $16/8; h10am-noon & 2-8pm).

(www.ionorchard.com; 430 Orchard Rd; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

ION Orchard Mall

ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

7313@SomersetMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Right above Somerset MRT, young and vibrant 313@Somerset delivers affordable, popular fashion and lifestyle brands, including Uniqlo, Zara, Cotton On, Aldo and Muji. It's also home to the ever-busy Apple shop, EpiCentre, as well as cafes and restaurants.

(www.313somerset.com.sg; 313 Orchard Rd; mSomerset)

7Ngee Ann CityMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It might look like a foreboding mausoleum, but this marble-and-granite behemoth promises retail giddiness on its seven floors of stores. International luxury brands compete for space with bookworm-nirvana Kinokuniya (Southeast Asia's second-largest bookstore) and the Japanese department store Takashimaya, home to Takashimaya Food Village, one of the strip's best food courts.

(www.ngeeanncity.com.sg; 391 Orchard Rd; h10am-9.30pm; mOrchard)

7Antiques of the OrientANTIQUES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Snugly set in a mall filled with Asian arts and crafts shops, Antiques of the Orient is a veritable treasure chest of original and reproduction vintage prints, photographs and maps from across the continent. Especially beautiful are the richly hued botanical drawings commissioned by British colonist William Farquhar.

(www.aoto.com.sg; 19 Tanglin Rd, 02-40, Tanglin Shopping Centre; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; mOrchard)

7Reckless ShopFASHION

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Young, talented local designer Afton Chan thrills fashion fiends with her highly creative, affordable creations. There are three labels. Entry-level Odds focuses on street-chic womenswear, while midrange Still delivers svelte, professional pieces for working women. Most impressive, however, is main label Reckless Ericka, which melds classic tailoring with fantastical, fashion-forward aesthetics inspired by themes as diverse as photography and Japanese anime.

(www.recklessericka.com; 181 Orchard Rd, 02-08/09, Orchard Central; h11am-9.30pm; mSomerset)

7ParagonMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Even if you don't have a Gold Amex, strike a pose inside this Maserati of Orchard Rd malls. Status labels include Burberry, Hermès, Jimmy Choo, and Singapore's own Raoul, which offers sharp, detailed men's threads and crisp, invigorating womenswear, from classic cropped trousers to sassy cocktail frocks. High-street brands include Banana Republic, G-Star Raw and Miss Selfridge.

(www.paragon.com.sg; 290 Orchard Rd; h10am-9pm; mSomerset)

7i.tFASHION

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hong Kong concept store i.t has sexed up the Singapore scene with its booty of high-end, avant-garde street wear labels for men and women. Labels include Izzue, 5cm, Judith Katie and tout à coup, with everything from denim, frocks and T-shirts to sneakers and heels.

(www.itlabels.com.sg; 03-15, Wisma Atria, 435 Orchard Rd; h10.30am-10pm; mOrchard)

7RobinsonsDEPARTMENT STORE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Robinsons' arresting, light-filled flagship should be high on any fashionista's hit list. The department store's fashion edits are sharp and inspired, pairing well-known labels such as Chloe, Coach and Dior with lesser-known cognoscenti brands such as South Korea's Brownbreath, Denmark's Vito and Italy's MSGM. Clothes and kicks aside, you'll find anything from Claus Porto soaps to classic Danish design.

(www.robinsons.com.sg; 260 Orchard Rd; h10.30am-10pm; mSomerset)

7ForumMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Peaceful, light-filled Forum eschews obvious brands for more discerning offerings. Deep-pocketed, fashion-forward women score playful, progressive pieces at Tsumori Chisato, while fashion-literate guys and girls bag hip, make-a-statement threads and footwear at Club 21. One floor up is a string of boutiques dedicated to designer kids' clothing and quality toys.

(www.forumtheshoppingmall.com.sg; 583 Orchard Rd; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

7On PedderSHOES, ACCESSORIES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Even if you're not in the market for high-end heels and bags, On Pedder thrills with its creative, whimsical items. The store hand picks only the most unique pieces from leading designers, whether it's ice-cream-cone stilettos from Charlotte Olympia or embroided, book-shaped clutches from Olympia Le-Tan. Accessories include statement jewellery fit for a modern gallery.

(www.onpedder.com; 6 Scotts Rd, Scotts Square; h10am-10pm; mOrchard)

7RockstarFASHION

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You'll find both major and independent labels at Rockstar, well known for its fun, youthful showcase of threads, shoes and accessories. Men's items span quirky shirts to statement espradilles, with the bigger women's collection ranging from whimsical party frocks and little black dresses to statement swimwear, candy-coloured sneakers and detail-focussed jewellery. Cathay Cineleisure ( GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Grange Rd, 03-08, Cathay Cineleisure Orchard; hnoon-10pm; mSomerset) has another branch.

(www.rockstarsingapore.blogspot.com.au; 22 Orchard Rd; h11.30am-9.30pm; mDhoby Ghaut)

l

Local Life

Qisahn

Local gaming geeks swarm to Qisahn ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.qisahn.com; 545 Orchard Rd, 05-13, Far East Shopping Centre; hnoon-8pm; mOrchard), a tiny store famed for undercutting the competition. Hidden away in Far East Shopping Centre, the place sells both new and pre-loved video games for all major platforms, including Nintendo Wii, Sony Playstation, Xbox 360 and PC. You can check available games on their website, and don’t forget – they will match any competitor’s price.

l

Local Life

Tiong Bahru

Spend a weekend morning in Tiong Bahru, Singapore's current epicentre of independent cool. An easy three stops from Raffles Place MRT station, it's more than just an ever increasing list of eclectic boutiques, bookstores, cafes and bakeries that make this low-rise neighbourhood worth a saunter. This area was Singapore's first public housing estate, its streetscape of walk-up, art deco apartments now among the city's most unexpected architectural treats.

Getting There

m Catch the subway to Tiong Bahru, walk east along Tiong Bahru Rd for 350m, then turn right into Kim Pong Rd.

1 Market & Food Centre

The Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 83 Seng Poh Rd; h8am-late, individual stalls vary; mTiong Bahru) remains staunchly old-school, down to its orange-hued exterior, the neighbourhood's original shade. Its hawker centre is home to cultish Jan Bo Shui Kueh ( GOOGLE MAP ; 02-05, Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre; shui $1.20-3.30; h6.30am-10.30pm), famous for its chwee kueh (steamed rice cake with diced preserved radish).

2 BooksActually

Bibliophilic bliss, BooksActually ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.booksactually.com; 9 Yong Siak St; h11am-6pm Mon, 11am-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mTiong Bahru) is Singapore's coolest independent bookstore, with an unusual range of fiction and nonfiction, including some interesting titles on Singapore. For beautiful children’s books, check out Woods in the Books ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.woodsinthebooks.sg; 3 Yong Siak St; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mTiong Bahru), three doors down.

3 Strangelets

Strangelets ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.strangelets.sg; 7 Yong Siak St; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; mTiong Bahru) is an attractively curated design store filled with quirky local jewellery, French candles, Florentine soaps, Swedish socks, Californian bags and rucksacks. Try the blood orange and rosemary organic Popaganda popsicles.

4 Nana & Bird

Around the corner is Nana & Bird ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nanaandbird.com; 79 Chay Yan St, 01-02; hnoon-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; mTiong Bahru). Originally a pop-up concept store, it's now a Tiong Bahru staple, with forward fashion, accessories and art. Find unexpected brands like Singapore's Aijek and By Invite Only. The newer, nearby flagship store ( GOOGLE MAP ; 59 Eng Hoon St, 01-65; hnoon-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; mTiong Bahru) includes kidswear.

5 Fleas & Trees

Ubercool vintage store Fleas & Trees ( GOOGLE MAP ; 01-10, 68 Seng Poh Lane; h6-10pm Tue-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri-Sun; mTiong Bahru) occupies a converted cold storage. At the helm is husband-and-wife team Terrence Yeung and Bella Koh, who scour the world for fab eclectic homewares, whimsical fashion, jewellery, books and magazines.

6 Tiong Bahru Bakery

Get some French lovin' at baker Gontran Cherrier's cool, contemporary Tiong Bahru Bakery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6220 3430; www.tiongbahrubakery.com; 01-07, 56 Eng Hoon St; pastries from $3, sandwiches & focaccias from $8; h8am-10pm; mTiong Bahru). Faultless pastries include buttery almond brioche, while savouries include salubrious sandwiches exploding with prime ingredients. Topping it off is beautiful coffee from Common Man Roasters.

Chinatown, CBD & Tanjong Pagar

MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©

These 'hoods keep things interesting with diverse architecture, culinary riches and top-notch bars. Not huge on must-see sights, it's about the vibe. Dive into Chinatown for wet markets, hawker food and temples, and into the CBD to sip and party in converted banks. South of Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar is great for contemporary galleries, artisan coffee, cocktails and heritage shophouses.

Sights in a Day

M Breakfast at veteran Ya Kun Kaya Toast, then get the dirt on the area's past at the Chinatown Heritage Centre. Picture those opium dens as you saunter down Pagoda St to bursting-with-colour Sri Mariamman Temple. Across the street, scour for antiques at Far East Legend and Chinese remedies at Eu Yan Sang.

R Hunt down a table at Maxwell Road Hawker Centre and taste-test the city's legendary street food, then lose yourself in the glittering excess of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Collect your thoughts on the peaceful rooftop garden, before making your way to Yixing Xuan Teahouse for old-school tea and nibbles. Alternatively, treat yourself to a little pampering at cut-price Mr Lim Foot Reflexology.

N Come dinner, opt for contemporary Southeast Asian flavours at Ding Dong, killer crab at Momma Kong's or sexy Mexican at sceney Luca Loco. Either way, end the evening taste-testing some of Singapore's top cocktail bars, among them Tippling Club and Jekyll & Hyde, or catch a rooftop breeze at Breeze.

For a local’s day in Chinatown, see (Click here).

1  Top Sights

Chinatown Heritage Centre

l  Local Life

Chinatown Tastebuds & Temples

x  Best of Singapore

Museums

Chinatown Heritage Centre

Baba House

Food

Ding Dong

Momma Kong's

Lucha Loco

Drinking

Tippling Club

Jekyll & Hyde

Getting There

m MRT Alight at Chinatown (Purple and Blue Lines) for Chinatown, Raffles Place (Red and Green Lines) or Telok Ayer (Blue Line) for CBD, and Tanjong Pagar (Green Line) or Outram Park (Purple and Green Lines) for Tanjong Pagar, including Duxton Hill.

g Bus The 61, 145 and 166 link Chinatown to the Colonial District.

1

Top Sights

Chinatown Heritage Centre

Spread across three floors of three adjoining shophouses, the Chinatown Heritage Centre lifts the lid of Chinatown's chaotic, colourful and often scandalous past. While its production values can't match those of the city's blockbuster museums, its endearing jumble of old photographs, personal anecdotes and recreated environments deliver an evocative stroll through the neighbourhood's highs and lows. Spend some time in here and you can expect to see Chinatown's now tourist-conscious streets in a much more intriguing light.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%6221 9556; www.singaporechinatown.com.sg; 48 Pagoda St; adult/child $10/6; h9am-8pm; mChinatown

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Keep in mind that last entry into the museum is at 7pm.

A The ground-floor gift shop usually stocks cool vintage postcards and mounted old photographs of Singapore.

5 Take a Break

Avoid the tourist-trap eateries on Pagoda St. Instead, join gluttonous locals at the upstairs hawker centre at Chinatown Complex.

If it's after 5pm, walk over to Club St and adjoining Ann Siang Rd for a swinging happy-hour scene and top-notch, contemporary dining at Ding Dong.

Don't Miss

Roots Exhibition

Although Chinatown was allocated to all Chinese traders in the Raffles Plan of 1828, the area was further divided along ethnic lines: Hokkien on Havelock Rd and Telok Ayer, China and Chulia Sts; Teochew on Circular Rd, Boat Quay and Upper South Bridge Rd; and Cantonese on Upper Cross St and Lower South Bridge and New Bridge Rds. This section of the museum explores the experiences of these migrants, from their first impressions to the important role played by the area’s clan associations.

Recreated Cubicles

The museum's faithful recreation of old Chinatown's cramped living quarters is arguably its best feature. Faithfully designed according to the memories and stories of former residents, the row of claustrophobic cubicles will have you peering into the ramshackle hang-outs of opium-addicted coolies, stoic Samsui women and even a painter and his family of 10! It's a powerful sight, vividly evoking the tough, grim lives that many of the area's residents endured right up to the mid-20th century.

Recreated Tailor Shop & Living Quarters

The time travel continues one floor down, where you'll stumble across a recreated tailor shopfront, workshop and living quarters. By the early 1950s, Pagoda St was heaving with tailor shops and this is an incredibly detailed replica of what was once a common neighbourhood. Compared to the cubicles upstairs, the tailor's living quarters appear relatively luxurious, with separate quarters for the tailor's family and apprentices, and a private kitchen.

l

Local Life

Chinatown Tastebuds & Temples

Considering its past as a hotpot of opium dens, death houses and brothels, it's easy to write off today's Chinatown as a paler version of its former self. Yet beyond the tourist tack that chokes Pagoda, Temple and Trengganu Sts lies a still-engrossing neighbourhood where life goes on as it has for generations, at cacophonous market stalls, retro kopitiams (coffeeshops) and historic temples.

1 Chinatown Wet Market

Elbow aunties at the famous Chinatown Wet Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; 11 New Bridge Rd, Chinatown Complex; h5am-noon), in the basement of the Chinatown Complex. At its best early in the morning, it's a rumble-inducing feast of wriggling seafood, exotic fruits and vegetables, Chinese spices and preserved goods.

2 Tiong Shian Porridge Centre

Appetite piqued, pull up a plastic stool at Tiong Shian Porridge Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 265 New Bridge Rd; porridge $3.50-5.20; h8.30am-4am), an old-school kopitiam where old uncles tuck into delicious congee. Winners here include porridge with century egg and pork, and the speciality claypot frog-leg porridge. Each order is made fresh.

3 Chop Tai Chong Kok

Pick up something sweet at Chop Tai Chong Kok ( GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Sago St; pastries from $0.60; h10am-6pm), a supertraditional pastry shop in business since 1938. If you're undecided, opt for the speciality lotus-paste mooncakes. Once known for its sago factories and brothels, Sago St itself now peddles everything from barbequed meat to pottery.

4 Ann Siang Road & Club Street

A quick walk away is trendy Ann Siang Rd, well known for its restored heritage terraces and booty of fashionable restaurants, bars and boutiques. Architecture buffs will appreciate the art deco buildings at Nos 15, 17 and 21. Mosey along it and adjacent Club Street, also famed for its old shophouses, trendy bars, eateries and after-work buzz.

5 Ann Siang Hill Park

At the top of Ann Siang Rd is the entrance to Ann Siang Hill Park. Not only is this Chinatown's highest point, it's a surprising oasis of green in the centre of the city. Kick back on a bench, catch the skyline through the foliage and follow the walkways downward to Amoy St.

6 Siang Cho Keong Temple

Small Taoist Siang Cho Keong Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; 66 Amoy St; h7.30am-5pm) was built by the Hokkien community in 1867–69. Left of the temple entrance you'll see a small 'dragon well': drop a coin and make a wish. The temple gets particularly busy at lunchtime when the faithful file in to offer incense and prayers.

7 Rafee's Corner

Time for a quick pit stop at Rafee's Corner ( GOOGLE MAP ; 7 Maxwell Rd, Amoy Street Food Centre, stall No 02-85; h6.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun), a humble tea vendor inside Amoy Street Food Centre. If he's in a good mood, the owner might overexaggerate the pulling. This is your cue to laugh.

8 Telok Ayer Street

In Malay, Telok Ayer means 'Water Bay', and Telok Ayer St was indeed a coastal road until land reclamation efforts in the late 19th century. Among its famous residents is Al-Abrar Mosque, built in the 1850s, Thian Hock Keng Temple, the oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore, and the Nagore Durgha Shrine, a mosque built between 1828 and 1830 by Chulia Muslims from south India.

1 Top Sights

Chinatown Heritage Centre  D2

1 Sights

1Baba House  A5

2Sri Mariamman Temple  E2

3Buddha Tooth Relic Temple  D3

4Thian Hock Keng Temple  F3

5Singapore City Gallery  D4

6People's Park Complex  C1

5 Eating

7Ding Dong  E3

8Momma Kong's  E2

9Lucha Loco  C4

10Blue Ginger  D5

11Maxwell Road Hawker Centre  D4

12Chinatown Complex  C2

13Sarnies  F3

14PS Cafe  E3

15Department of Caffeine  C4

16Ya Kun Kaya Toast  F2

17Satay Street  H4

18The Flying Squirrel  F3

19Tong Heng  D3

6 Drinking

20Tippling Club  D4

21Jekyll & Hyde  D5

22Jigger & Pony  F3

23The Good Beer Company  C3

24The Black Swan  H2

25Ô Batignolles  F2

26Breeze  E3

271-Altitude  H1

28Drinks & Co  E2

29La Terrazza  E3

30Fry Bistro  E3

31Oxwell & Co  E3

32Yixing Xuan Teahouse  D4

33Plain  C5

34Tantric Bar  C4

3 Entertainment

35Chinese Theatre Circle  D3

36Kyō  G3

37Screening Room  E3

38Taboo  C4

7 Shopping

39Far East Legend  E2

40Utterly Art  D2

41Willow and Huxley  F3

42Eu Yan Sang  E3

43Tong Mern Sern Antiques  B5

44Yong Gallery  D2

45Yue Hwa Chinese Products  D1

Sights

1Baba HouseMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Baba House is one of Singapore's best-preserved Peranakan heritage homes. Built in the 1890s, it's a wonderful window into the life of an affluent Peranakan family living in Singapore a century ago. Its loving restoration has seen every detail attended to, from the carved motifs on the blue facade down to the door screens. The only way in is via an excellent guided tour, held every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Bookings, by telephone, are essential.

(%6227 5731; www.nus.edu.sg//cfa/museum; 157 Neil Rd; h1hr tours 2pm Mon, 6.30pm Tue, 10am Thu, 11am Sat; mOutram Park)

1Sri Mariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Paradoxically in the middle of Chinatown, this is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, originally built in 1823, then rebuilt in 1843. You can't miss the fabulously animated, technicolor 1930s gopuram (tower) above the entrance, the key to the temple's South Indian Dravidian style. Sacred cow sculptures graze the boundary walls, while the gopuram is covered in kitsch plasterwork images of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer.

(244 South Bridge Rd; h7am-noon & 6-9pm; mChinatown)

1Buddha Tooth Relic TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Consecrated in 2008, this hulking, five-story Buddhist temple is home to what is reputedly the left canine tooth of the Buddha, recovered from his funeral pyre in Kushinagar, northern India. While its authenticity is debated, the relic enjoys VIP status inside a 420kg solid-gold stupa in a dazzlingly ornate 4th-floor room. More religious relics await at the 3rd-floor museum, while the peaceful rooftop garden features a huge prayer wheel inside a 10,000 Buddha Pavilion.

(www.btrts.org.sg; 288 South Bridge Rd; h7am-7pm, relic viewing 9am-6pm; mChinatown)

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

THANK YOU/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Thian Hock Keng TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Oddly, while Chinatown’s most famous Hindu temple is swamped, its oldest and most important Hokkien temple is often a haven of tranquillity. Built between 1839 and 1842, it’s a beautiful place, and once the favourite landing point of Chinese sailors, before land reclamation pushed the sea far down the road. Curiously, the gates are Scottish and the tiles Dutch.

(www.thianhockkeng.com.sg; 158 Telok Ayer St; h7.30am-5.30pm; mTelok Ayer)

Thian Hock Keng Temple

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Singapore City GalleryMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

See into Singapore's future at this interactive city-planning exhibition, which provides surprisingly compelling insight into the government's resolute policies of land reclamation, high-rise housing and meticulous urban planning. The highlight is an 11m-by-11m scale model of the central city, which shows just how different Singapore will look once all the projects currently under development join the skyline.

(www.ura.gov.sg/gallery; URA Bldg, 45 Maxwell Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; mTanjong Pagar)

1People’s Park ComplexSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The only reason to dive into this old-school Chinatown mall is for the cheap massage places ready to vie for your body parts (opt for the busier ones). Our favourite is Mr Lim Foot Reflexology ( GOOGLE MAP ; 03-53 & 03-78, People's Park Complex; 30min foot reflexology $15; h10am-11pm; mChinatown), where your robust rubdown comes with televised local and Taiwanese soaps.

(1 Park Rd; h9am-11pm, individual stalls vary; mChinatown)

Understand

Peranakan Culture

Peranakan heritage has been enjoying renewed interest, mainly triggered by The Little Nonya, a high-rating 2008 drama series focused on a Peranakan family, and the opening of Singapore's outstanding Peranakan Museum. But who are the Peranakans?

Origins

In Singapore, Peranakan (locally born) people are the descendants of immigrants who married local, mostly Malay women. The largest Peranakan group in Singapore is the Straits Chinese. The men, called Babas, and the women, Nonya, primarily speak a patois that mixes Bahasa Malay, Hokkien dialect and English. The ancestors of the Straits Chinese were mainly traders from mainland China, their presence on the Malay peninsula stretching back to the Ming dynasty. The ancestors of Chitty Melaka and Jawi Peranakan were Indian traders, whose unions with local Malay women created their own unique traditions. All three groups are defined by an intriguing, hybrid culture created by centuries of cultural exchange and adaptation.

Weddings

No Peranakan tradition matches the scale of the traditional wedding. Originally spanning 12 days, its fusion of Fujian Chinese and Malay traditions included the consulting of a sinseh pokwa (astrologer) in the choosing of an auspicious wedding day, elaborate gifts delivered to the bride's parents in bakul siah (lacquered bamboo containers) and a young boy rolling across the bed three times in the hope for a male first-born. With the groom in Qing-dynasty scholar garb and the bride in a similarly embroidered gown and hat piece, the first day would include a tea ceremony. On the second day, the couple took their first meal together, feeding each other 12 dishes to symbolise the 12-day pro-cess, while the third day would see them offering tea to their parents and in-laws. On the dua belah hari (12th-day ceremony), the marriage was sealed and proof of the consummation confirmed with a discreet sighting of the stain on the bride's virginity handkerchief by the bride's parents and groom's mother.

l

Local Life

Pinnacle@Duxton

For killer city views at a bargain, head to the 50th-floor rooftop of Pinnacle@Duxton ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pinnacleduxton.com.sg; Block 1G, 1 Cantonment Rd; rooftop $5; h9am-10pm; mOutram Park, Tanjong Pagar), the world's largest public housing complex. Skybridges connecting the seven towers provide a gobsmacking, 360-degree sweep of city, port and sea. Chilling out is encouraged, with patches of lawn, modular furniture and sunlounges. Payment is by EZ-Link card only (you can purchase one for $10 at the 7-Eleven store beside the ticket machine on level 1 of Block G). Rest the card on the ticket machine and $5 will be automatically deducted.

Understand

Temple Tales

Before construction of the Thian Hock Keng Temple, the site was home to a much humbler joss house, where Chinese migrants would come to thank Mazu, the goddess of the sea, for their safe arrival. Their donations helped propel construction of the current temple, the low granite barrier of which once served to keep seawater out during high tide. Look up at the temple's ceiling in the right wing and you'll notice a statue of a man, seemingly lifting a beam. The statue is an ode to Indian migrants from nearby Chulia St, who helped construct the building. During restoration works in 1998, one of the roof beams revealed a surprising find – a scroll written by the Qing emperor Guangxu bestowing blessings on Singapore's Chinese community.

Eating

5Ding DongSOUTHEAST ASIAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

From the graphic bar tiles to the meticulous cocktails, to the wow-oh-wow modern takes on Southeast Asian flavours, it's all about attention to detail at this sucker-punch champ. Book a table and drool over zingtastic scallop ceviche with fresh coconut, sultry hay-smoked pork bao or tart-and-crunchy red curry Wagyu short rib. Can't decide? Opt for the good-value 'Feed Me' menus.

(www.dingdong.com.sg; 23 Ann Siang Rd; dishes $12-25, set menus $55 & $79; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat)

5Momma Kong'sSEAFOOD $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Small, funky Momma Kong's is run by two young brothers and a cousin obsessed with crab. While the compact menu features numerous finger-licking, MSG-free crab classics, opt for the phenomenal chilli crab, its kick and non-gelatinous gravy unmatched in this town. One serve of crab and four giant, fresh mantou (steamed buns) should happily feed two stomachs. Unlike many other chilli crab joints, you'll find fixed prices and good-value combo deals. Book two days ahead (three days for Friday and Saturday).

(%6225 2722; www.mommakongs.com; 34 Mosque St; mains from $20; h5-10pm Tue-Sun; W; mChinatown)

5Lucha LocoMEXICAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Packed nightly with eye candy, flirtatious barkeeps and succulent Mexican street food, this pumping taquería-cum-garden-bar explodes with X-factor. While we adore the ceviche, tostaditas and addictive elotes (corn rolled in mayonnaise and Cotija cheese), it's the tacos, generously topped with fresh, beautiful produce, that leave us loco. No reservations, so head in early or late, or grab a Mezcal and wait.

(www.luchaloco.com; 15 Duxton Hill; dishes $8-20; h4-10.15pm Tue-Thu, 4-11pm Fri, 6-11pm Sat; mOutram Park, Tanjong Pagar)

5Blue GingerPERANAKAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Elegant Blue Ginger is one of the few places in Singapore showcasing the spicy, sour flavours of Peranakan food; a unique fusion of Chinese and Malay influences. Mouth-watering musts include kueh pie tee (shredded bamboo shoots and turnips garnished with shrimp in fried pie tee cups), sambal terong goreng (spicy fried eggplant) and a sublimely delicate Nonya fish head curry.

(%6222 3928; www.theblueginger.com; 97 Tanjong Pagar Rd; mains $12-38; hnoon-2.15pm & 6.30-9.45pm; mTanjong Pagar)

5Maxwell Food CentreHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of Chinatown's most accessible hawker centres, Maxwell Road is a solid spot to savour some of the city's street-food staples. While stalls slip in and out of favour with Singapore's fickle diners, enduring favourites include Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (Stall 10), Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake (Stall 5) and Fried Sweet Potato Dumpling (Stall 76).

(cnr Maxwell & South Bridge Rds; dishes from $2.50; hindividual stalls vary; v; mChinatown)

5Chinatown ComplexHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Leave Smith St's revamped 'Chinatown Food Street' to the out-of-towners and join old-timers and foodies at this nearby labyrinth. The 25-minute wait for mixed claypot rice at Lian He Ben Ji Claypot Rice (Stall 02-198/199) is worth it, while the rich and nutty satay at Shi Xiang Satay (Stall 02-79) is insane. For a little TLC, opt for Ten Tonic Ginseng Chicken Soup at Soup Master (Stall 02-05).

(11 New Bridge Rd; dishes from $2.50; hindividual stalls vary; mChinatown)

Pagoda St, Chinatown

GAVIN HELLIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

5SarniesCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Luscious, epic sarnies (British slang for sandwiches) bust the jaws of suits and hipsters at this new-school Aussie cafe. Farm-to-table produce shows off in sandwich combos like grilled aubergine and hummus, or blokey grass-fed steak with mushrooms and caramelised onions. Gourmet soups and salads pack an equal punch, while the weekend brunch includes house-cured bacon. Coffee snobs should sample the espresso martini.

(%6224 6091; www.sarniescafe.com; 136 Telok Ayer St; sandwiches & salads $13.50-16.50, weekend brunch $15.90-25.90; h7.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; mTelok Ayer)

5PS CafeINTERNATIONAL $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

From the ground-floor black marble bar to the upstairs sweep of crisp linen, Chesterfield banquettes and Dior-clad ladies, colonial glamour is always in vogue at this leafy, heavenly scented hideaway. Compare notes on husband and maid over vibrant, seductive bistro fare like the soy-cured salmon Big Nihon Salad or delicate miso cod. The popular weekend brunch cranks up the decadence, with free-flow Domaine Chandon or house wine options. Cin cin, darlink.

(www.pscafe.com; 45 Ann Siang Rd; mains $19-36; hrestaurant 11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-10.30pm Sat & Sun, bar to 12.30am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; mChinatown)

5Department of CaffeineCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The coffee cognoscenti don't just hang here for the smooth, nutty brews. They fill their bellies from an ever-changing menu of ridiculously fresh grub. Start the day with homemade granola, feel virtuous over chilli and garlic-spiked chargrilled broccoli, or fill up on comfort mains like succulent chicken with lemon sumac and za'atar. If you're feeling naughty, seek out the honey and lavender tea cake.

(DOC; %6223 3426; www.deptofcaffeine.com; 15 Duxton Rd; meals $15-18; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon & Tue, 10.30am-10.30pm Thu & Fri, 9.30am-7.30pm Sat & Sun; mTanjong Pagar)

5Ya Kun Kaya ToastCAFE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Though it's now part of a chain, this airy, retro coffeeshop is an institution, and the best way to start the day the Singaporean way. The speciality is buttery kaya (coconut jam) toast, dipped in runny egg (add black pepper and a few drops of soya sauce) and washed down with strong kopi (coffee).

(www.yakun.com; 01-01 Far East Sq, 18 China St; kaya toast set $4.20; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun; mTelok Ayer)

5Satay StreetHAWKER $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Each night, Boon Tat St is blocked to traffic and transformed into a KL-style sea of outdoor tables, beer-peddling aunties and little satay huts dubbed Satay Street. Order a few rounds of satay, some gravy-sopping rice cakes, a jug of Tiger, and feast on the cheap. You'll find it right behind the famous Lau Pa Sat hawker centre.

(Boon Tat St; satay around $0.60 per stick; h7pm-1am Mon-Fri, 3pm-1am Sat & Sun)

5The Flying SquirrelJAPANESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This sneaky squirrel lurks down a laneway off Amoy St. Find it and your reward is fresh, delicious Japanese in a cool but cosy combo of brickwork, filament bulbs and designer chairs. Bento boxes are the lunchtime hit, while the more elaborate dinner menu includes a 're-invented' Wagyu Burger, in which bread and beef are minced together and pan-fried in a moreish red wine sauce. Book ahead for dinner.

(www.theflyingsquirrel.com.sg; 01-02, 92 Amoy St; lunch $16-38, dinner mains $13-36; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W; mTelok Ayer)

5Tong HengBAKERY $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hit the spot at this veteran pastry shop, specialising in pastries, tarts and cakes from the southern Chinese province of Guangdong. While locals rightfully flock here for the melt-in-your-mouth egg tarts, leave room for the slightly charred perfection of the char siew su (BBQ pork puff). Addictive personalities beware.

(285 South Bridge Rd; snacks from $1.40; h9am-10pm; mChinatown)

Drinking

6Tippling ClubCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Tippling Club propels mixology to dizzying heights, with a technique and creativity that could turn a teetotaler into a born-again soak. The best seats are at the bar, where under a ceiling of hanging bottles, passionate pros turn rare and precious spirits into wonders like the 'Smoky Old Bastard', a mellow concoction of whisky, sweet tobacco and citrus smoke.

(%6475 2217; www.tipplingclub.com; 38 Tanjong Pagar Rd; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat)

6Jekyll & HydeCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

By day a respectable nail salon, by night a killer cocktail lounge, Jekyll & Hyde splits itself into two distinct spaces – buzzing back bar and mild-mannered front space tailored for more tranquil tête-à-têtes. Whichever you choose, you'll be sipping on smooth, inspired libations like the Mr Bean, a strangely seductive blend of bean curd, vodka, kaya, butterscotch liqueur and Frangelico.

(www.49tras.st; 49 Tras St; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 6pm-1am Fri & Sat; mTanjong Pagar)

6Jigger & PonyCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Once an art gallery, now a dark and slinky cocktail bar, Jigger & Pony is well known for honouring classic and long-forgotten libations. Japanese-style meticulousness steers the barkeeps, whose tricks include rare aperitivi like the crisp Cocchi Cooler (Cocchi Americano, soda water and flambéed orange peel) and one of the smoothest Negronis this side of Turin.

(101 Amoy St; h6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-3am Fri & Sat; mTelok Ayer)

6Good Beer CompanyBEER STALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Injecting Chinatown Complex with a dose of new-school cool, this hawker-centre beer stall peddles an impressive booty of bottled craft suds, from homegrown Jungle to Belgian Trappistes Rochefort. A few stalls down is Smith Street Taps ( GOOGLE MAP ; 02-062, Chinatown Complex, 11 New Bridge Rd; h6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat), run by a friendly dude and offering a rotating selection of craft and premium beers on tap.

(11 New Bridge Rd, 02-58, Chinatown Complex; h6-10pm Mon-Sat; mChinatown)

6Black SwanBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Was that Rita Hayworth? You'll be mistaken for thinking so at this art deco marvel, set inside a former 1930s bank building. While we adore the bustling downstairs bar – complete with inlaid wood, geometric windows and centrepiece U-shaped bar – it's the upstairs Powder Room that takes the breath away – a dark, decadent, plush lounge perfect for top-tier whiskys or classic with-a-twist cocktails.

(%8181 3305; www.theblackswan.com.sg; 19 Cecil St; h11am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mRaffles Place)

6Ô BatignollesWINE BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Don those Breton stripes and retreat to this corner bistro for a little joie de vivre. Run by a French couple and never short of unwinding lawyers and hopeless Francophiles, it's a fine choice for a well-priced glass (or bottle) of boutique wine, an assiette de charcuterie and a little Club St people-watching.

(2 Gemmill Lane; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; W; mTelok Ayer)

6BreezeROOFTOP BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

For rooftop sipping without the raucous crowds, take the lift to this grown-up, seductive hideaway, perched above the Scarlet Hotel. Splashed with bold tropical fabrics and lush heliconia, it's a sensible spot for quiet conversations, romantic gazing or simply catching a late-night breeze while scanning a sea of rooftops and skyscrapers.

(www.thescarlethotel.com; Scarlet Hotel, 33 Erskine Rd; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; W; mChinatown)

61-AltitudeROOFTOP BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Extreme Altitude might be a better name for the world's highest alfresco bar, perched 282m above street level. Wedged across a triangle-shaped deck, its view of Singapore is unmatched, though the quality of the drinks fails to reach such lofty heights. Dress up (no shorts or open shoes, gents), snap away, then continue your evening at one of Singapore's better-quality drinking establishments.

(www.1-altitude.com; Level 63, 1 Raffles Pl; admission $30, incl 1 drink; h6pm-late; mRaffles Place)

6Drinks & CoBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A crisp, contemporary bottle shop and bar in one, Drinks & Co showcases mostly New World wines and spirits, spanning both small- and larger-scale producers. It gets especially packed with post-work corporate types, who head in for well-priced bottles of plonk and pang-punching cheese platters and deli-style bites. Head in before the post-work rush or expect to wait for a seat.

(drinksandco.asia; 44 Club St; h2pm-midnight; mTelok Ayer, Chinatown)

6La TerrazaROOFTOP BAR

GOOGLE MAP

The views across Chinatown and the CBD from this intimate rooftop bar, part of the hip Screening Room, are superb. Hunt down a comfy couch, kick off the shoes and have a shouting-into-each-other’s-ears conversation over nostalgic '80s and '90s tunes. To reserve a bar table, call or email three days ahead.

(www.screeningroom.com.sg; Level 4, Screening Room, 12 Ann Siang Rd; h6pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mChinatown)

6Fry BistroROOFTOP BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Unceremoniously stacked with beer cartons, DIY rooftop Fry flies under the radar with the Club St hordes. It's this very fact that makes it so appealing for a long lazy drinking session and (audible) late-night conversation. The vibe is chilled, the music good and the skyline view just as bewitching as that from its louder, better-known neighbour.

(%8418 5995; www.facebook.com/FryBistro; 96B Club St; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat; mChinatown)

6Oxwell & CoBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Laced with cockfighting posters, frontier-style benches and exposed copper pipes, it seems the only thing missing at jumping Oxwell & Co are some wagons out the front. What's not missing is a nightly crowd of tie-loosening suits downing lesser-known beers, solid wines, and sophisticated grub such as graze-friendly marinated olives and revamped Brit dude food like Yorkshire pudding. Up the stairs, Gordon Ramsay protégé Mark Sargeant serves produce-driven modern British dishes; book the restaurant in advance.

(www.oxwellandco.com; 5 Ann Siang Rd; h10am-late Tue-Sat; mChinatown)

6Yixing Xuan TeahouseTEAHOUSE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Banker-turned-tea-purveyor Vincent Low is the man behind this venture, happily educating visitors about Chinese tea and the art of tea drinking. To immerse yourself more deeply, book a tea-ceremony demonstration with tastings ($20, 45 minutes).

(www.yixingxuan-teahouse.com; 30/32 Tanjong Pagar Rd; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; mTanjong Pagar)

6PlainCAFE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A high-cred combo of stark interiors, neatly piled design magazines and Scandi-style communal table, the Plain keeps hipsters purring with Australian Genovese coffee, decent all-day breakfasts (from $4) and sweet treats like lemon and lime tarts. Service is friendly and the vibe refreshingly relaxed.

(www.theplain.com.sg; 50 Craig Rd; h7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun; mTanjong Pagar)

6Tantric BarGAY & LESBIAN

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Two indoor bars and two alfresco palm-fringed courtyards is what you get at Singapore's best-loved gay drinking hole. Especially heaving on Friday and Saturday nights, it's a hit with preened locals and eager expats and out-of-towners, who schmooze and cruise to Kylie, Gaga and Katy Perry chart toppers. Lushes shouldn't miss Wednesday night, when $20 gets you two martinis.

(78 Neil Rd; h8pm-3am Sun-Fri, 8pm-4am Sat; mOutram Park, Chinatown)

l

Local Life

Everton Park HDB

Singapore's void decks – the ground-floor space of its public housing blocks (HDBs) – are usually scattered with gossipy uncles and aunties and shrieking kids. At Everton Park you're just as likely to find Third Wave coffee bloggers and design hunters. Top billing goes to Nylon Coffee Roasters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6220 2330; www.nyloncoffee.sg; 01-40, 4 Everton Park; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; mOutram Park, Tanjong Pagar), a standing-room-only cafe-roastery with an epic reputation for phenomenal seasonal blends and single origins. Buzzed up, pop into neighbouring The Redundant Shop ( GOOGLE MAP ; redundantshop.com; Block 5, 01-22A, Everton Park; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mOutram Park, Tanjong Pagar), a catchment for design-literate curios from Singapore and beyond. Everton Park is 500m south of Outram Park MRT. Enter from Cantonment Rd, directly opposite the seven-tower Pinnacle@Duxton.

Entertainment

3Chinese Theatre CircleCHINESE OPERA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Teahouse evenings organised by this nonprofit opera company are a wonderful, informal introduction to Chinese opera. Every Friday and Saturday at 8pm there is a brief talk on Chinese opera, followed by a 45-minute excerpt from an opera classic, performed by actors in full costume. You can also opt for a pre-show Chinese meal at 7pm. Book ahead.

(%6323 4862; www.ctcopera.com; 5 Smith St; show & snacks $25, show & dinner $40; h7-9pm Fri & Sat; mChinatown)

6KyōCLUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

From boring bank to thumping hotspot, this sprawling, Japanese-inspired playpen is home to the world's longest bar (expect the odd bar-top booty shake), suited eye-candy and sharp DJs spinning credible electro, house, funk or disco. If you're itching for a little midweek hedonism, you know where to go.

(www.clubkyo.com; B1-02, Keck Seng Tower, 133 Cecil St; h9pm-3am Wed & Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mTelok Ayer, Raffles Place)

3Screening RoomCINEMA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If your idea of a good night involves sinking into a sofa and watching classic flicks, make some time for Screening Room. Expect anything from On the Town to Sex, Lies and Videotape, projected onto a pull-down screen. To watch a film, you'll need to spend a minimum of $15 on drinks or food at the cinema's Theatre Bar.

(www.screeningroom.com.sg; 12 Ann Siang Rd; mChinatown, Telok Ayer)

6TabooGAY & LESBIAN

MAP GOOGLE MAP

After drinks at Tantric, cross the street and conquer the dance floor at what remains the favourite gay dance club in town. Expect the requisite line-up of shirtless gyrators, doting straight women and regular racy themed nights. Note: only the chillout lounge is open on Wednesday and Thursday nights.

(www.taboo.sg; 65 Neil Rd; h8pm-2am Wed & Thu, 10pm-3am Fri, 10pm-4am Sat; mOutram Park, Chinatown)

Understand

Speaker's Corner

When Speakers' Corner hit Hong Lim Park in 2000, the government and (government-regulated) press hailed it as a step forward for Singaporean freedom of speech. Notorious sticklers for novelty, 400 Singaporeans took to the stand in the first month to address the crowds. A year later only 11 stepped up. Now, it's completely deserted and, cynics will say, an accurate symbol of the state of free speech in a country whose attitude towards politics is predominately apathetic. Of course, you're still free to step up and state your mind…as long as you're Singaporean, register in advance with local police, avoid blacklisted subjects such as religion, politics and ethnicity, and stay within Singapore's sedition laws. Still feel like speaking out?

y

Top Tip

LGBT Singapore

Although public debate around LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender) rights is increasing, homosexual acts remain technically illegal. Despite this, a small but thriving LGBT scene exists, centred mostly on Neil Rd in Chinatown. Bars and clubs aside, annual events include the Love & Pride Film Festival (dates vary), June's Pink Dot (pinkdot.sg) solidarity gathering in Hong Lim Park and August pride festival IndigNation (www.plu.sg/indignation). For more info on what's on, check out www.travelgayasia.com, www.pluguide.com and www.utopia-asia.com.

Shopping

7Far East LegendANTIQUES, HANDICRAFTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Slip inside this small, charmingly cluttered shop for an intriguing collection of furniture, lamps, handicrafts, statues and other objets d’art from all over Asia. You'll find anything from dainty porcelain snuff boxes to ceramic busts of Chairman Mao. Best of all, the owner is usually willing to ‘discuss the price’.

(233 South Bridge Rd; h11.30am-6.30pm; mChinatown)

7Utterly ArtART

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Head upstairs to this tiny, welcoming gallery for works by contemporary Singaporean, Filipino and, on occasion, Cambodian artists. While painting is the gallery's main focus, exhibitions do dabble in sculpture and ceramics on occasion, with artworks priced from $50 to around $1400 (depending on the exhibition). Opening times can be a little erratic, so always call ahead if making the trip especially.

(%9487 2006; www.utterlyart.com.sg; Level 3, 20B Mosque St; hvaries, usually noon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5.30pm Sun; mChinatown)

7Willow and HuxleyFASHION, ACCESSORIES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Willow & Huxley peddles a sharp, vibrant edit of smaller independent labels like Australia's Finders Keepers and Bec & Bridge, Denmark's quirky Baum und Pferdgarten, and Sienna Miller's very own Twenty8Twelve. Jewellery spans vintage to statement, with a small selection of casual, beach-friendly threads for men courtesy of Australia's TCSS and New York's Onia and Psycho Bunny.

(www.willowandhuxley.com; 20 Amoy St; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat; mTelok Ayer)

7Eu Yan SangCHINESE MEDICINE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Get your qi back in order at Singapore's most famous and user-friendly Chinese medicine store. Pick up some Monkey Bezoar powder to relieve excess phlegm, or Liu Jun Zi pills to dispel dampness. You'll find herbal teas, soups and oils, and you can even consult a practitioner of Chinese medicine at the clinic next door (bring your passport).

(www.euyansang.com.sg; 269 South Bridge Rd; hshop 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, clinic 8.30am-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-6pm Wed, 8.30am-7.30pm Sat; mChinatown)

Night market, Pagoda St

ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

7Tong Mern Sern AntiquesANTIQUES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

An Aladdin’s cave of dusty furniture, books, records, wood carvings, porcelain and other bits and bobs (we even found an old cash register), Tong Mern Sern is a curious hunting ground for Singapore nostalgia. A banner hung above the front door proclaims: ‘We buy junk and sell antiques. Some fools buy. Some fools sell.’ Better have your wits about you.

(51 Craig Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun; mOutram Park)

7Yong GalleryANTIQUES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The owner here is a calligrapher, and much of his artwork is on sale. You'll also find jewellery, genuine jade products and antiques as well as more affordable gifts such as decorative bookmarks, Chinese fans and clocks. The shop is stuffed with goodies so it's fun browsing even if you're not in a buying mood.

(260 South Bridge Rd; h10am-7pm; mChinatown)

7Yue Hwa Chinese ProductsDEPARTMENT STORE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With a deco facade paging Shanghai, this six-storey department store specialises in all things Chinese. Downstairs you'll find medicine and herbs, clothes and cushions. Moving to level 5, you'll pass through silks, food and tea, arts and crafts and household goods, before ending up in a large, cluttered sea of furniture.

(www.yuehwa.com.sg; 70 Eu Tong Sen St; h11am-9pm Sun-Fri, to 10pm Sat; mChinatown)

l

Local Life

MAAD About Design

Tap into Singapore’s creative side at design flea market MAAD (Market of Artists and Designers; GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/goMAAD; Red Dot Design Museum, 28 Maxwell Rd). Held at the Red Dot Design Museum, it’s a showcase for over 100 local artists and craftspeople, who sell anything and everything from handmade jewellery, totes and shoes to fashion, plush toys and postcards. The event is usually held from 5pm to midnight on one Friday night each month. Check the website for upcoming market dates.

l

Local Life

Paper, Death & Sago Lane

The curious paper objects on sale around Chinatown – from miniature cars to computers – are offerings burned at funeral wakes to ensure the material wealth of the dead. Veteran Nam's Supplies ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.namsupplies.com; 22 Smith St; h8am-7pm) has been peddling such offerings since 1948, when nearby Sago Lane heaved with so-called 'death houses', where dying relatives were sent to spend their final days.

l

Local Life

Katong (Joo Chiat)

Also known as Joo Chiat, Katong is the heart of Singapore's Peranakan community. It's an evocative mix of multicoloured shophouses, tucked-away temples and quaint workshops and handicraft studios, not to mention some of the city's best eateries. Try to head in during business hours, when locals hop in and out of heirloom shops in search of fabrics, produce and the next tasty snack.

Getting There

m Paya Lebar and Eunos stations are the closest stations.

g Routes 33 and 16 service Joo Chiat Rd.

1 Geylang Serai Market

Geylang Serai Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Geylang Serai; h8am-10pm, individual stalls vary; mPaya Lebar) packs in a lively wet market, hawker food centre and stalls selling everything from Malay CDs to skullcaps. If you're feeling peckish, hunt down some pisang goreng (banana fritters) and wash them down with a glass of bandung (milk with rose cordial syrup).

2 Joo Chiat Road

Eclectic Joo Chiat Road is lined with dusty antiques workshops, Islamic fashion boutiques and low-fuss grocery shops. Detour left into Joo Chiat Tce to admire the Peranakan terraces at Nos 89 to 129, adorned with pintu pagar (swinging doors) and colourful ceramic tiles.

3 Long Phuong

Head back to Joo Chiat Rd and continue south to Long Phuong ( GOOGLE MAP ; 159 Joo Chiat Rd; dishes $6-22; h11am-11pm; g33, mEunos), a down-to-earth Vietnamese eatery serving up Singapore's best Vietnamese food. The pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) is simply gorgeous.

4 Kuan Im Tng Temple

Fingers licked, it's a quick walk to Kuan Im Tng Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kuanimtng.org.sg; cnr Tembeling Rd & Joo Chiat Lane; h5am-6.15pm; mPaya Lebar), a Buddhist temple dedicated to Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy. Temple fans will appreciate the ornate roof ridges adorned with dancing dragons.

5 Koon Seng Road Terraces

Koon Seng Rd is famous for its two rows of prewar, pastel-coloured Peranakan terraces, lavished with stucco dragons, birds, crabs and brilliant glazed tiles imported from Europe.

6 Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple

One of Singapore's most beautiful Hindu temples, Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Ceylon Rd; h6.30am-1.30pm & 6.30-9pm; g10, 12, 14, 32, 40) features a kamalapaatham, a specially sculptured granite foot-stone found in certain ancient Hindu temples. The roof of the inner sanctum is covered in gold.

7 Kim Choo Kueh Chang

Katong is stuffed with bakeries and dessert shops, but few equal old-school Kim Choo Kueh Chang ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kimchoo.com; 109 East Coast Rd; h10am-9.30pm; g10, 14, 16, 32). Pick up traditional pineapple tarts and other Peranakan kueh (bite-sized snacks), and pit stop at the adjoining boutique for Peranakan ceramics and clothing.

8 Katong Antique House

Tiny shop-cum-museum Katong Antique House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6345 8544; 208 East Coast Rd; h11am-6.30pm by appointment only; g10, 12, 14, 32, 40) is the domain of Peter Wee, a noted expert on Peranakan culture, and packed with his collection of books, antiques and cultural artefacts. By appointment only, though it's sometimes open to the public.

l

Local Life

Geylang

Contradiction thrives in Geylang, a neighbourhood as famous for its shrines, temples and mosques as for its brothels and back-alley gambling dens. Head in for lunch, spend the afternoon wandering quaint lorongs (alleys), religious buildings and an under-the-radar gallery, then head back to neon-lit Geylang Rd for a long, lively evening of people-watching and unforgettably good local grub.

Getting There

g Routes 2, 13, 21, 26 and 51 run along Sims Ave through Geylang.

m Kallang, Aljunied and Paya Lebar are the closest stations.

1 Shi Sheng Frog Porridge

Geylang is famous for its frog porridge and the best place to try it is Shi Sheng Frog Porridge ( GOOGLE MAP ; 235 Geylang Rd; h11.45am-3.45am; g2, 51, mKallang). Its Cantonese-style version is beautifully smooth and gooey, and only live frogs are used, ensuring that the meat is always fresh.

2 Amitabha Buddhist Centre

Take a class on dharma and meditation at the seven-floor Amitabha Buddhist Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6745 8547; www.fpmtabc.org; 44 Lorong 25A; h10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun; mAljunied); its upstairs meditation hall, swathed in red-and-gold cloth, is open to the public and filled with beautiful devotional objects. Check the website for class schedules.

3 No Signboard Seafood

If you didn't brave the frog porridge, get messy over Singapore's best white-pepper crab at No Signboard Seafood ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nosignboardseafood.com; 414 Geylang Rd; dishes from $15, crab per kg around $60; hnoon-1am; mAljunied). Madam Ong Kim Hoi started out with an unnamed hawker stall (hence 'No Signboard'), but the popularity of her seafood made her a rich woman, with six restaurants and counting.

4 Lorong 24A

One alley worth strolling down is Lorong 24A, lined with renovated shophouses from which the sounds of chanting emerge. Many have been taken over by the numerous small Buddhist associations in the area. Close by, tree-lined Lorong 27 is also worth a wander, jammed with colourful shrines and temples.

5 Geylang Thian Huat Siang Joss Paper

Old-school Geylang Thian Huat Siang Joss Paper ( GOOGLE MAP ; 503 Geylang Rd; h8am-9.30pm; mAljunied) sells paper offerings used at funeral wakes. You'll find everything from giant cash registers, yachts and houses to lifelike shoes and piles of cash, all thrown into the fire to ensure a comfortable afterlife.

6 Sri Sivan Temple

Built on Orchard Rd in the 1850s, the whimsically ornate Sri Sivan Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sstsingapore.com; 24, Geylang East Ave 2; h6am-noon & 6-9pm) was uprooted and moved to Serangoon Rd in the 1980s before moving to its current location in 1993. The Hindu temple is especially unique for its fusion of North and South Indian architectural influences.

7 Rochor Beancurd

End on a sweet note at Rochor Beancurd ( GOOGLE MAP ; 745 Geylang Rd; dough sticks $1, bean curd from $1.20; h24hr; v; mPaya Lebar), a tiny bolthole with an epic reputation. People head here from all over the city for a bowl of its obscenely fresh, silky bean curd (opt for it warm). Order a side of dough sticks and dip to your heart's content. Oh, did we mention the egg tarts?

l

Local Life

Changi & Pulau Ubin

Singapore's 'Far East' serves up a slower, nostalgic style of local life. Vests, Bermuda shorts and flip-flops are the look in chilled-out Changi Village, a place where out-of-towners are a less common sight. A short bumboat (motorised sampan) ride away, the rustic island of Pulau Ubin is the Singapore that development mercifully left behind.

Getting There

g No 2 from Tanah Merah MRT reaches Changi Village. Bumboats (one way $2.50, bicycle surcharge $2; 6am to 9pm) connect Changi Village to Pulau Ubin.

1 Changi Museum & Chapel

Although no longer at the original Changi prison site, the Changi Museum & Chapel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6214 2451; www.changimuseum.com; 1000 Upper Changi Rd N; admission free, audio guide adult/child $8/4, guided tour $12/8; h9.30am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm) remains a moving tribute to the Allied POWs captured, imprisoned and subjected to horrific treatment by the invading Japanese forces during WWII. Its centrepiece is a replica of the original Changi Chapel built by inmates.

2 Changi Village

Hugging Singapore's far northeast coast, Changi Village is well worth a wander to experience a curiously relaxed side of Singapore. The vibe is almost villagelike, and a browse around the area will turn up cheap clothes, batik, Indian textiles and electronics. Bumboats to Pulau Ubin depart from Changi Point Ferry Terminal, beside the bus terminal.

3 Pulau Ubin Village

Your landing spot on Pulau Ubin is Pulau Ubin Village. Although not technically a tourist sight, its ramshackle nature channels a long-lost Singapore. If you're feeling peckish, turn left for a handful of eateries, mostly housed in kampong (village) huts. Tuck into noodles, rice dishes or seafood staples like chilli crab (expect to pay around $20 per person for the latter). The village is also the place to rent bikes; day rentals cost around $5 to $12.

4 Chek Jawa Wetlands

If you only have time for one part of Pulau Ubin, make it Chek Jawa Wetlands ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-6pm). Located at the island's eastern end, its 1km coastal boardwalk juts out into the sea before looping back through protected mangrove swamp to the 20m-high Jejawi Tower, offering a stunning panorama. You can't bring your bike into the reserve so make sure to rent one that comes with a bike lock.

5 German Girl Shrine

Housed in a yellow hut beside an Assam tree, the German Girl Shrine is one of the island's quirkier sights. Legend has it that the young German daughter of a coffee plantation manager was running away from British troops who had come to arrest her parents during WWI and fell fatally into the quarry behind her house. Somewhere along the way, this daughter of a Roman Catholic family became a Taoist deity, whose help some Chinese believers seek for good health and fortune.

6 Coastal Settlement

Back in Changi, end the day at Coastal Settlement ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6475 0200; www.thecoastalsettlement.com; 200 Netheravon Rd; mains $16-24, pizzas $21-23; h10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun, last food order 9.30pm; g29), an eclectic bar-lounge-restaurant pimped with retro objects and set in a black-and-white colonial bungalow on lush, verdant grounds.

Little India & Kampong Glam

MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Little India bursts with vibrancy. This is a world where goods crowd the five-foot-ways, shophouses are the colour of crayons and men in dhotis (loincloth) gossip over authentic dosa (savoury pancakes) at the marketplace. Walk 15 minutes southeast and you're in calmer Kampong Glam, dubbed Arab St. Head here for beautiful mosques, colourful fabrics, trendy boutiques and delicious grub.

The Sights in a Day

M Breakfast south Indian style at Ananda Bhavan then head north along colourful Serangoon Rd until you hit Hindu showpiece Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. Continue north to Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, or go as far as bargain mecca Mustafa Centre and dive in for cut-price electronics, threads, shoes and jewellery.

R Recharge with Indian homecooking at Lagnaa Barefoot Dining, drop into the reputedly lucky Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple, then bargain hunt at Bugis Street Market. Next stop: Kampong Glam. If you're not shopped out, pick up a bespoke fragrance at Sifr Aromatics and hit fashion-literate Haji Lane, otherwise head straight to whimsical Sultan Mosque.

N Come dinner, dig into real-deal Italian at fashionable Cicheti or keep it local with murtabak (stuffed savoury pancake) at no-frills classic Zam Zam. Once fed, down made-to-measure cocktails at Bar Stories, people-watch at buzzing Piedra Negra or catch live tunes at boho BluJaz Café.

For a local’s day in Little India, see (Click here).

x  Best of Singapore

Food

Lagnaa Barefoot Dining

Cicheti

Zam Zam

Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat Corner

Drinking

BluJaz Café

Maison Ikkoku

Artistry

Shopping

Sifr Aromatics

Little Shophouse

Getting There

m MRT Little India is on the Purple Line. For Kampong Glam, walk 300m from Bugis (Green and Blue Lines).

m Metro Farrer Park (Purple Line) is handy for the north end of Little India and Mustafa Centre.

l

Local Life

A Stroll in Little India

Loud, colourful and refreshingly raffish, Little India stands in contrast to the more staid parts of the city. Dive into a gritty, pungent wonderland of dusty grocery shops, gold and sari traders, haggling Indian families and heady Hindu temples. Jumble them all together with a gut-busting booty of fiery eateries and you have Singapore's most hypnotic, electrifying urban experience.

1 Buffalo Road

Plunge into subcontinental Singapore on Buffalo Rd. It's a bustling strip packed with brightly coloured facades, Indian produce shops, Hindu shrines and garland stalls. Flowers used to make the garlands are highly symbolic: both the lotus and white jasmine spell purity, while the yellow marigold denotes peace.

2 Tan House

As you walk up Buffalo Rd towards Serangoon Rd, look for an alley leading to Kerbau Rd on your left. Take a quick detour down it to be dazzled by Tan House. Sitting on the corner of the alley and Kerbau Rd, this is quite possibly Singapore's most colourful building. Once you've picked up your jaw, head back onto Buffalo Rd.

3 Tekka Centre Wet Market

If it's morning, slip into Tekka Centre Wet Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Serangoon & Buffalo Rds; h6am-1.30pm), where locals battle it out for the city's freshest produce. It's an intense place, stocking everything from fresh yoghurt and dried curry spices to bitter gourds, black-skin chicken and halal meats. If you're after a sari, the top floor has an army of vendors.

4 Indian Heritage Centre

Opening in 2015, the $12 million Indian Heritage Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.indianheritage.org.sg; cnr Campbell Ln & Clive St; mLittle India) explores the origins and heritage of Singapore’s Indian community through artefacts, maps, archival footage and multimedia. The building itself is a striking contemporary statement. Iridescent during the day, its translucent facade becomes transparent at night, revealing a suitably colour-packed mural.

5 Thandapani Co

Slip into Dunlop St and look for Thandapani Co ( GOOGLE MAP ; 124 Dunlop St). Adorned with hessian bags packed with chillies, fennel seeds and other Indian staples, this grocery shop is considered one of the city's best spice vendors, stocking ingredients you won't find elsewhere.

6 Abdul Gafoor Mosque

Equally enticing is Abdul Gafoor Mosque ( GOOGLE MAP ; 41 Dunlop St; mLittle India), with its intriguing mix of Islamic and Victorian architecture. Completed in 1910, it features an elaborate sundial crowning its main entrance, each of its 25 rays decorated with Arabic calligraphy denoting the names of 25 prophets.

7 Sungei Road Thieves Market

A ramshackle collection of tarpaulins and random junk, Sungei Road Thieves Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sungei Rd, Weld Rd, Pasar Lane & Pitt St; hafternoon; mBugis) offers a glimpse into the city's underbelly. Amid the sea of dusty laptops, cassette tapes and worn stilettos, you may just find a true gem, from Chairman Mao dinner plates to a Mont Blanc pen.

8 Sungei Road Laksa

End your local experience with a cheap, steamy fix at Sungei Road Laksa ( GOOGLE MAP ; Block 27, Jalan Berseh #01-100, Jin Shui Kopitiam; laksa $2; h9am-6pm, closed 1st & 3rd Wed of month). The fragrant, savoury coconut-base soup here enjoys a cult following, and only charcoal is used to keep the precious gravy warm. To avoid the lunchtime crowds, head in before 11.30am or after 2pm.

1 Sights

1Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple  B4

2Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple  D2

3Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple  D1

4Leong San See Temple  D1

5Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple  D1

6Sultan Mosque  E7

7Malabar Muslim Jama-ath Mosque  E5

8Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple  B7

9Malay Heritage Centre  E6

10St Gregory Javana Spa  E8

11Hounds of the Baskervilles  E7

12Amrita Ayurvedic Centre  B5

5 Eating

13Lagnaa Barefoot Dining  B5

14Cicheti  E7

15Warong Nasi Pariaman  E6

16Sankranti  C3

17Gandhi Restaurant  A4

18Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat Corner  E6

Ananda Bhavan  A5

19QS269 Food House  B8

20Symmetry  E6

21Zam Zam  D7

22Jaggi's  A4

23Cocotte  C5

24Tekka Centre  A5

25Moghul Sweet Shop  B5

6 Drinking

26Artistry  D6

27Maison Ikkoku  E7

28Bar Stories  D7

29Piedra Negra  E8

30Divine Bar  D8

31Bellwethers  D4

32Prince of Wales  B5

3 Entertainment

33BluJaz Café  E7

34Bian's Cafe  E7

35Wild Rice  A4

36Bugis+  C8

Hood  C8

7 Shopping

37Sifr Aromatics  E7

38Tuckshop & Sundry Supplies  D7

39Little Shophouse  E7

40Nalli  A5

41Bugis Street Market  C7

42Bugis Junction  C8

43Mustafa Centre  C3

44Sim Lim Square  B6

45Basheer Graphic Books  B8

46Straits Records  E7

Sights

1Sri Veeramakaliamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Little India's most colourful, bustling temple is dedicated to the ferocious goddess Kali, depicted wearing a garland of skulls, ripping out the insides of her victims and sharing more tranquil family moments with her sons Ganesh and Murugan. The blood-thirsty consort of Shiva has always been popular in Bengal, the birthplace of the labourers who built the structure in 1881. The temple is at its most evocative during each of the four daily puja (prayer) sessions.

(141 Serangoon Rd; h5.15am-12.15pm & 4-9.15pm; mLittle India)

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

ROBIN BUSH/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Sri Srinivasa Perumal TempleHINDU TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This temple dedicated to Vishnu dates from 1855, though the striking, 20m-tall gopuram (tower) is a $300,000 1966 add-on. Inside is a statue of Vishnu, his sidekicks Lakshmi and Andal, and his bird-mount Garuda. The temple is the starting point for a colourful, wince-inducing street parade during the Thaipusam festival.

(397 Serangoon Rd; h5.45am-noon & 5-9pm; mFarrer Park)

1Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Dedicated to Kaliamman, the Destroyer of Evil, this South Indian temple began life in 1870 as a modest shrine, but underwent a significant facelift in 1969 to transform it into the beauty standing today. The carvings here – particularly on the domed vimana inside – are among the best temple artwork you'll see anywhere in Singapore.

(555 Serangoon Rd; h6am-noon & 4.30-9pm Sun-Thu, 6am-12.30pm & 4.30-9.30pm Fri & Sat; mFarrer Park, Boon King)

1Leong San See TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Dating from 1917 and dedicated to Kuan Yin (Guanyin), this relatively modest temple often swells with more religious fervour than many larger Buddhist temples in Singapore. The name translates as Dragon Mountain Temple and its tiled roof ridge is decorated with animated chimera, dragons, flowers and human figures. To get here, walk north up Serangoon Rd then, opposite Beatty Rd, turn left through a decorative archway emblazoned with the Chinese characters for the temple (龍山寺) and you'll find it at the end of the lane.

(371 Race Course Rd; h7.30am-5pm; mFarrer Park)

1Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Dominating this temple (also known as the Temple of 1000 Lights) is a 15m-tall, 300-tonne Buddha. Keeping him company is an eclectic cast of deities, including Kuan Yin, the Chinese goddess of mercy and, interestingly, the Hindu deities Brahma and Ganesh. The yellow tigers flanking the entrance symbolise protection and vitality, while the huge mother-of-pearl Buddha footprint to your left as you enter is reputedly a replica of the footprint on top of Adam's Peak in Sri Lanka.

(Temple of 1000 Lights; 366 Race Course Rd; h8am-4.30pm; mFarrer Park)

1Sultan MosqueMOSQUE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Seemingly pulled from the pages of the Arabian Nights, Singapore's largest mosque is nothing short of enchanting, designed in the Saracenic style and topped by a golden dome. It was originally built in 1825 with the aid of a grant from Raffles and the East India Company, after Raffles' treaty with the Sultan of Singapore allowed the Malay leader to retain sovereignty over the area. In 1928, the original mosque was replaced by the present magnificent building, designed by an Irish architect.

(www.sultanmosque.org.sg; 3 Muscat St; h9am-noon & 2-4pm Sat-Thu, 2.30-4pm Fri; mBugis)

Sultan Mosque

TDO/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Malabar Muslim Jama-ath MosqueMOSQUE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Architecture goes easy-wipe at the golden-domed Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Mosque, a curious creation clad entirely in striking, blue geometric tiles. This is the only mosque on the island dedicated to Malabar Muslims from the South Indian state of Kerala, and though the building was commenced in 1956, it wasn't officially opened until 1963 due to cash-flow problems. This 'better late than never' motif continues with the tiling, only completed in 1995.

(www.malabar.org.sg; 471 Victoria St; h2.30-4pm & 5-6.30pm; mLavender)

1Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Awash with the frenetic click of Chinese divination sticks, this is one of Singapore's busiest (and according to devotees, luckiest) temples. It's dedicated to the goddess of mercy Kuan Yin, a much-loved peddler of good fortune. Flower sellers and fortune tellers swarm around the entrance, while further up the street, believers rub the belly of a large bronze Buddha Maitreya for extra luck. Pragmatic worshippers also offer prayers at the polychromatic Sri Krishnan Hindu Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; 152 Waterloo St) next door.

(178 Waterloo St; h6am-6.30pm; mBugis)

1Malay Heritage CentreMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The Kampong Glam area is the historic seat of Malay royalty, resident here before the arrival of Raffles, and the istana (palace) on this site was built for the last sultan of Singapore, Ali Iskander Shah, between 1836 and 1843. It's now a museum, with recently revamped galleries exploring Malay-Singaporean culture and history, from the early migration of traders to Kampong Gelam, to the development of Malay-Singaporean film, theatre, music and publishing.

(%6391 0450; www.malayheritage.org.sg; 85 Sultan Gate; adult/under 6yr $4/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mBugis)

1St Gregory Javana SpaSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

St Gregory's is a major player in the relaxation stakes, with four facilities in Singapore. This recently refurbished branch is at the Parkroyal on Beach Rd, its forest-inspired design a dreamy backdrop for treatments ranging from Swedish massage, wraps and milk baths, to traditional Chinese therapies and oil-based Ayurvedic massage.

(%6505 5755; www.stgregoryspa.com; 7500 Beach Rd, Level 4, The Parkroyal; treatments $40-300; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; mBugis, Nicoll Highway)

1Hounds of the BaskervillesBARBER, TATTOO PARLOUR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Inked hipsters, antique cabinets bursting with clippers and a hissing espresso machine: no place screams new-school Singapore like this old-school-inspired barber-cum-tattoo parlour. Get clippered or snipped (walk-ins only), or pimp your skin with a striking new tatt. The top dog artist here is Rosman, a Javanese dude famed for his batik designs.

(%6299 1197; 24 Bali Lane; buzz cut/full cut/shave $15/38/35; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; mBugis)

1Amrita Ayurvedic CentreMASSAGE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If Little India's hyperactive energy leaves you frazzled, revive the Indian way with an Ayurvedic (traditional Indian medicine) massage at this modest, friendly massage joint. Treatments include Udvarthanam (using a paste of herbs and grains to cleanse the skin and improve circulation) and the highly popular Abhyangam (synchronised massage using medicated oils).

(%6299 0642; www.amrita.com.sg; 11 Upper Dickson Rd; 30min massage from $35; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; mLittle India)

l

Local Life

Banksy, Asian-Style

Street artist Ernest Zacharevic (www.zachas.com) has been dubbed the Malaysian Banksy. Born in Lithuania and based in Penang, the 20-something artist has garnered a global following for his fantastically playful, interactive street art. Zacharevic's murals often incorporate real-life props, whether old bicycles, chairs, even the moss growing out of cracks. In one small work opposite the Malabar Muslim Jama-ath Mosque, two exhilarated kids freewheel it on a pair of 3D supermarket trolleys. To the right, a young boy somersaults out of a box, while further south on the corner of Victoria St and Jln Pisang, a giant girl caresses a lion cub.

Eating

5Lagnaa Barefoot DiningINDIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You can choose your level of spice at friendly Lagnaa: Level 3 denotes standard spiciness, Level 4 significant spiciness and anything above admirable bravery. Whatever level you opt for, you're in for finger-licking good homestyle cooking from both ends of Mother India, devoured at either Western seating downstairs or on floor cushions upstairs. Indecisive? Order chef Kaesavan's famous Threadfin fish curry.

(%6296 1215; www.lagnaa.com; 6 Upper Dickson Rd; dishes $6-20; h11.30am-10pm; W; mLittle India)

5CichetiITALIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Cool-kid Cicheti is a slick, friendly, buzzing scene of young-gun pizzaioli, trendy diners and seductive, contemporary Italian dishes made with handpicked market produce. Tuck into beautifully charred wood-fired pizzas, made-from-scratch pasta and evening standouts like polpette di carne grana (slow-cooked meatballs topped with shaved Grana Padana). Book early in the week if heading in on a Friday or Saturday night.

(%6292 5012; www.cicheti.com; 52 Kandahar St; pizzas $17-25, mains $25-38; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri, 6.30-11pm Sat; mBugis)

5Warong Nasi PariamanMALAYSIAN, INDONESIAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It might not be much to look at, but this corner nasi padang stall is the stuff of legend. Do not miss the belado (fried mackerel in a slow-cooked chilli, onion and vinegar sauce), delicate rendang beef or ayam bakar (grilled chicken with coconut sauce). Get here by 11am to avoid the hordes. And be warned: most of it sells out by 1pm.

(%6292 2374; 738 North Bridge Rd; dishes $2.60-5; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat; mBugis)

5SankrantiINDIAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Arguably the best of a cluster of good restaurants in and around Little India's 24-hour shopping hub, the Mustafa Centre, Sankrati serves specialities from the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The extensive menu also includes a number of North Indian dishes and has an enticing choice of set-meal thalis. The pick of the bunch is the Sankranti Special, a 10-piece culinary extravaganza.

(100 Sayed Alwi Rd; mains from $8; h11.30am-4pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 11.30am-midnight Fri-Sun; mLittle India)

Late-night dining, Little India

ANDREW ROWAT/GETTY IMAGES ©

5Gandhi RestaurantSOUTH INDIAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

It may be a canteen-style joint with shabby service and cheap decor, but who cares when the food is this good? Wash your hands by the sink at the back and tuck into delicious set-meal thali, dosa (paper-thin lentil-flour pancake) or uttapam (thick, savoury South Indian rice pancake with finely chopped onions, green chillies, coriander and coconut).

(29 Chander Rd; dishes from $2, set meals from $4; h11am-11pm; mLittle India)

5Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat CornerCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you only try fish-head hotpot once, do it at this noisy, open-fronted veteran. Cooked on charcoal, the large pot of fish head is brought to you in steaming, tee po (dried flat sole fish) spiked broth. One pot is enough for three or four people, and can stretch to more with rice and side dishes.

(812-816 North Bridge Rd; fish steamboats around $20; h4.30pm-12.30am; mLavender)

5Ananda BhavanINDIAN, VEGETARIAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This super-cheap chain restaurant is a top spot to sample South Indian breakfast staples like idly and dosa (spelt ‘thosai’ on the menu). It also does great-value thali, some of which are served on banana leaves. You’ll find other Little India outlets at 58 Serangoon Rd and 95 Syed Alwi Rd, as well as an outlet at Changi Airport’s Terminal 2.

(www.anandabhavan.com; Block 663, 01-10 Buffalo Rd; set meals $6-9; h7am-10.30pm; v; mLittle India)

5QS269 Food HouseHAWKER $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This is not so much a 'food house' as a loud, crowded undercover laneway lined with cult-status food stalls. Work up a sweat with a bowl of award-winning coconut curry noodle soup from Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon Mee ( GOOGLE MAP ; Stall 01-236; dishes from $4; h8am-5pm Sat-Thu) or join the queue at the equally cultish New Rong Liang Ge Cantonese Roast Duck Boiled Soup ( GOOGLE MAP ; Stall 01-235; dishes from $2.50; h7am-8pm), with succulent roast duck dishes that draw foodies from across the city.

(Block 269b Queen St; hindividual stalls vary; mBugis)

5SymmetryCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With its clutter of rusty beams, random lamps and indie tunes, Symmetry feels like a garage made for band jams. But it's all about the grub, coffee and suds. Book ahead for the weekend brunch, its wickedly good offerings including wild mushroom duxelle beignets, pork collar-stuffed croissants and a satisfying Eggs Sur Le Plat (with pork sausage, smoked paprika, cherry tomato coulis and creamed baby spinach).

(www.symmetry.com.sg; 9 Jalan Kubor; brunch $16-24; h10.30am-9pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, to 9pm Sun; W; mBugis)

5Zam ZamMALAYSIAN $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

These guys have been here since 1908 so they know what they're doing. Tenure hasn't bred complacency, though. The touts still try to herd customers in off the street, while frenetic chefs inside whip up delicious murtabak, the restaurant's speciality savoury pancakes, filled with succulent mutton, chicken, beef, venison or even sardines.

(699 North Bridge Rd; murtabak from $5, dishes $6-20; h7am-11pm; W; mBugis)

5Jaggi'sINDIAN PUNJABI $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of the few authentic, no-nonsense outfits in a string of otherwise touristy, overpriced Indian restaurants on Race Course Rd, canteen-style Jaggi's peddles delicious Punjabi food to loyal locals. Point and choose and mix and match until you have a meal's worth of dishes, then pay the boss and take your tray of goodies to your table.

(34-36 Race Course Rd; dishes $2.50-$5; h11.30am-3.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 10.45pm Fri, 11am-4pm & 5.30-10.45pm Sat & Sun; v; mLittle India)

5CocotteFRENCH $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Never mind the Little India address, hip Cocotte is red, white and blue down to its succulent French jus. Plan your next Gallic adventure over garlicky gougères aux escargots (snails wrapped in cheese pastry), tender pork, veal and sage crépinettes, or the signature poulet rôti, a whole chicken roasted to perfection and served with seasonal vegetables and rich pan juices.

(%6298 1188; www.restaurantcocotte.com; 2 Dickson Rd, Wanderlust; mains from $34; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, noon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Fri & Sat; mLittle India, Bugis)

5Tekka CentreHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Queue up for biryani, dosai (South Indian savoury pancake), roti prata (fried flat bread served with a curry sauce) and teh tarik (pulled tea), then wedge yourself into a table at this legendary hawker centre wrapped around the sloshed guts and hacked bones of the wet market.

(cnr Serangoon & Buffalo Rds; dishes $2-10; h7am-11pm; v; mLittle India)

5Moghul SweetsDESSERT $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you’re after a subcontinental sugar rush, tiny Moghul is the place to get it. Sink your teeth into luscious gulab jamun (syrup-soaked fried dough balls), harder-to-find rasmalai (paneer cheese soaked in cardamom-infused clotted cream) and barfi (condensed milk and sugar slice) in flavours including pistachio, chocolate and…carrot.

(48 Serangoon Rd; sweets from $1; h9.30am-9.30pm; mLittle India)

Understand

The Singaporean Table

Food is one of Singapore’s greatest drawcards, the nation’s melting pot of cultures creating one of the world’s most diverse, drool-inducing culinary landscapes.

Chinese

Thank the Hainanese for Hainanese chicken rice (steamed fowl and rice cooked in chicken stock, served with a clear soup and a chilli-ginger dip), and the Hokkiens for hokkien mee (yellow Hokkien noodles with prawns) and char kway teow (stir-fried noodles with cockles, Chinese sausage and dark sauce). Teochew cuisine is famed for its rice porridge, while Cantonese classics include won ton soup.

Malaysian & Indonesian

Feast on Katong laksa (spicy coconut curry broth with noodles, prawns, cockles, fish cake, bean sprouts and laksa leaf), ikan assam (fried fish in a sour tamarind curry) and nasi lemak (coconut rice with fried fish and peanuts). Equally mouth-watering is nasi padang, which sees steamed rice paired with a choice of meat and vegetable dishes like sambal tofu-tempeh (spicy tofu and fermented beans).

Peranakan

Peranakan (Nonya) food is a cross-cultural fusion of Chinese and Malay influences. Dishes are tangy, spicy and commonly flavoured with chillies, shallots, belacan (Malay fermented prawn paste), preserved soya beans, peanuts, coconut milk and galangal (a ginger-like root). Classics include otak otak (a sausage-like blend of fish, coconut milk, chilli paste, galangal and herbs grilled in a banana leaf).

Indian

South India's hot flavours dominate. Tuck into thali (rice plate), a combination of rice, vegetable curries, rasam (hot, sour soup) and dessert served on a large banana leaf. Leave room for roti prata (fried flat bread served with a curry sauce), masala dosa (thin pancake filled with spiced potatoes and chutney) and halal (Muslim) murtabak (lightly grilled dough stuffed with onion and seasoned meat, usually mutton).

Drinking

6ArtistryCAFE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Killer coffee, rotating art exhibitions and frequent after-hours events – spanning live music and dance to themed cocktail soirees – Artistry is a hipster version of the cultural salon. Swig on interesting artisanal beers and ciders, or tuck into fresh, delicious grub (served till 5pm) like the sublime BRB (blueberry, ricotta and bacon) pancakes.

(%6298 2420; www.artistryspace.com; 17 Jln Pinang; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; W; mBugis)

6Maison IkkokuCAFE, COCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Pimped with Chesterfield banquettes and suspended dressers, Maison Ikkoku flies the flag for Third Wave Coffee, its brewing techniques including Chemex, Syphon, Woodneck, French press, AeroPress and old-school espresso. Edibles include decent sandwiches, salads, cakes and mi musubi, a sushi-like Hawaiian snack topped with seasoned spam. Upstairs is the well-regarded cocktail bar, where crafty libations come with a view of Sultan Mosque’s golden dome.

(www.maison-ikkoku.net; 20 Kandahar St; hcafe 9am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun, bar 4pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mBugis)

6Bar StoriesCOCKTAIL BAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Call ahead if heading here later in the week – this upstairs cocktail den is as small as it is hugely popular. If you're lucky, you'll be sitting at the bar, where gung-ho barkeeps keep it freestyle, turning whatever spirit or flavour turns you on into a smashing libation. Creative, whimsical and often brilliant.

(%6298 0838; www.barstories.com.sg; 55/57A Haji Lane; h3pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mBugis)

6Piedra NegraBAR, RESTAURANT

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With sexy Latin beats, bombastic murals and tables right on free-spirited Haji Lane, this electric Mexican joint is a brilliant spot for a little evening people-watching, any night of the week. Frozen or shaken, the margaritas pack a punch, and the joint's burritos, quesadillas, tacos and other Tex-Mex staples are filling and delish.

(www.piedra-negra.com; cnr Beach Rd & Haji Lane; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 5pm-2am Sat; mBugis)

6Divine BarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Looking straight out of 1930s Manhattan, this wine and cocktail lounge is an art-deco-inspired extravaganza, adorned with ornate bronze ceilings, a grand piano and a 12m-high wine rack. Order a bottle after 6pm and the in-house wine angel ‘flies up’ to fetch your Shiraz (ignore the pulley). Of course, it just wouldn’t be New York without jazz, live nightly from 8.15pm.

(www.parkviewsquare.com; 600 North Bridge Rd, Parkview Square lobby; h11am-12.30am; mBugis)

6BellwethersBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Breezy Bellwethers brings a little hipster cool to the raffish streets of Little India. Grab an oil-drum table on the alleyway and neck a craft beer, whisky or just a decent cup of Joe. The grub is also good, whether it's snack-friendly jamón-wrapped grilled eggplant, or bigger, mostly meaty mains. Happy hour rocks on till 9pm.

(www.bellwethers.com.sg; 120 Desker Rd; h5-11.30pm Tue-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; W; mFarrer Park)

6Prince of WalesPUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The closest thing to a pub in Little India, this grungy Aussie hang-out doubles as a backpacker hostel. It's an affable, popular spot, with a small beer garden, a pool table, sports screens and live music several times a week. Weekly staples include Wednesday Quiz Night (from 8pm) and the Sunday Session, complete with BBQ (3.30pm to 7.30pm) and music jams (from 4pm).

(www.facebook.com/POW.Little.India; 101 Dunlop St; h8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mLittle India)

l

Local Life

Jalan Besar

Once better known for its hardware stores and boxing matches, Jalan Besar is metamorphising into an area where heritage architecture meets new-school Singapore cool. It’s a compact district, centred on Jalan Besar and Tyrwhitt Rd. It's on the latter that you'll find cult-status cafe-roaster Chye Seng Huat Hardware ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cshhcoffee.com; 150 Tyrwhitt Rd; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun; mLavender). Right above it sits Tyrwhitt General Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://tyrwhittgeneralcompany.com; 150A Tyrwhitt Rd; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; mLavender), a shop-workshop peddling handmade jewellery, art and knickknacks, most of it designed and made in Singapore. To get here, alight at Lavendar MRT station and walk northwest up Horne Rd to Tyrwhitt Rd.

Craft workshop, Tyrwhitt General Company

THEGENERALCO.SG ©

Entertainment

3BluJaz CaféLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Bohemian pub BluJaz is one of your best options for live music in town, with regular jazz jams and other acts playing anything from blues to rockabilly. Check the website for the list of rotating events, which include DJ-spun funk, R&B and retro nights, and Wednesday's 'Talk Cock' open-mic comedy night.

(www.blujaz.net; 11 Bali Lane; from $6; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri, 4pm-2am Sat; mBugis)

3Bian's CafeCHINESE OPERA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Visit this quaint cafe between 3pm and 6pm on Thursday afternoon (admission $10) and you'll be treated to short bursts of Beijing Opera tunes. You may even be able to have a go yourself; Chinese opera karaoke, anyone? The site is also home to the grandly named Singapore Chinese Opera Museum (admission $5), which documents the history and development of the art form in Singapore.

(www.singopera.com.sg; 01-27, Sultan Plaza, 100 Jln Sultan; tickets $10; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri; mBugis)

3Wild RiceTHEATRE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Singapore's sexiest theatre group is based in Kerbau Rd, but performs shows elsewhere in the city (as well as abroad). Productions range from farce to serious politics, and fearlessly wade into issues not commonly on the agenda in Singapore.

(%6292 2695; www.wildrice.com.sg; 65 Kerbau Rd; mLittle India)

3Bugis+MALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This futuristic, Gen-Y mall packs a virtual punch with its screen-centric thrills and spills. Join gaming geeks at St Games ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.stgamescafe.com; 03-16/17, Bugis+; h11.30am-9.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) or the epic Garena Stadium ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://stadium.garena.com; 03-19, Bugis+), or get nostalgic at amusement parlour Arcadia ( GOOGLE MAP ; 05-04/05, Bugis+; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat). Alternatively, channel your inner Lorde in one of the themed karaoke lounges at K Suites ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ksuites.com.sg; 03-18, Bugis+). Level 4 houses a plethora of funky, food-court-style eateries.

(www.bugis-plus.com.sg; 201 Victoria St; mBugis)

3HoodLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Inside the Bugis+ mall, Hood's street-art interior sets a youthful scene for nightly music jams from acts such as Rush Hour and Smells like Last Friday. If it's undiscovered talent you're after, head in for the weekly 'Saturday Original Sessions’, a showcase for budding musos itching to share their singer-songwriter skills.

(www.hoodbarandcafe.com; 201 Victoria St, 05-07, Bugis+; h5pm-1am Mon & Tue, to 3am Wed-Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-1am Sun; mBugis, City Hall)

l

Local Life

Bollywood at the Rex

Where can you catch the Bollywood blockbusters advertised all over Little India? Why at the Rex Cinemas ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://tickets.rexcinema.com.sg; 2 Mackenzie Rd; tickets $15; mLittle India), of course. This historic theatre, on the very edge of the neighbourhood, screens films from around the subcontinent, most subtitled in English.

Shopping

7Sifr AromaticsPERFUME

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This Zen-like perfume laboratory belongs to third-generation perfumer Johari Kazura, whose exquisite creations include the heady East (50mL $140), a blend of oud, rose absolute, amber and neroli. Perfumes range from $85 to $300 for 50mL, while vintage perfume bottles range from $60 to $2000. Those after a custom-made fragrance should call a couple of days ahead before their visit.

(www.sifr.sg; 42 Arab St; h11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mBugis)

7Tuckshop & Sundry SuppliesFASHION, ACCESSORIES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A vintage-inspired ode to Americana working-class culture, this super-cool menswear store offers a clued-in selection of rugged threads and accessories, including designer eyewear, grooming products and made-in-house leathergoods. Stock up on plaid shirts, sweat tops and harder-to-find denim from brands like Japan's Iron Heart and China's Red Cloud.

(25 Bali Lane; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mBugis)

7Little ShophouseHANDICRAFTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Traditional Peranakan beadwork is a dying art, but it's kept very much alive in this quaint shop-cum-workshop. Starting at around $300, the shop's colourful slippers are designed by craftsman Robert Sng and hand-beaded by his sister, Irene. While they're not cheap, each pair takes a painstaking two months to complete. Beadwork aside, you'll also find Peranakan-style tea sets, crockery, vases, handbags and jewellery.

(43 Bussorah St; h10am-5pm; mBugis)

7NalliCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

For better quality cotton and silk saris, try this small industrious shop on Buffalo Rd. You can pick up cotton saris for as little as $30. The beautiful silk versions, most of which are upstairs, go for between $100 and $1000.

(www.nallisingapore.com.sg; 10 Buffalo Rd; h10am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7.30pm Sun; mLittle India)

7Bugis Street MarketMARKET

MAP GOOGLE MAP

What was once Singapore's most infamous sleaze pit – packed with foreign servicemen on R&R, gambling dens and 'sisters' (transvestites) – is now its most famous undercover street market, crammed with cheap clothes, shoes, accessories, manicurists, food stalls and, in a nod to its past, a sex shop.

(www.bugis-street.com; Victoria St; h11am-10pm; mBugis)

7Bugis JunctionMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Featuring two streets of glassed-in, air-conditioned shophouse re-creations, Bugis Junction lures teens and 20-somethings with its fast fashion, costume jewellery, kawaii collectables and street-smart backpacks and courier bags. Global brands include concept store Muji and a small branch of bookstore Kinokuniya.

(200 Victoria St; h10am-10pm; mBugis)

7Mustafa CentreDEPARTMENT STORE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Little India's bustling 24-hour Mustafa Centre is a magnet for budget shoppers, most of them from the subcontinent. It's a sprawling place, peddling everything from electronics and garish gold jewellery to shoes, bags, luggage and beauty products. There's also a large supermarket with a great range of Indian foodstuffs. If you can't handle crowds, avoid the place on Sunday.

(www.mustafa.com.sg; 145 Syed Alwi Rd; h24hr; mFarrer Park)

7Sim Lim SquareELECTRONICS, MALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A byword for all that is cut-price and geeky, Sim Lim is jammed with stalls selling motherboards, soundcards, games consoles, laptops and cameras. If you know what you're doing, there are some deals to be had, but the untutored are more likely to be taken for a ride. Hard bargaining is essential.

(www.simlimsquare.com.sg; 1 Rochor Canal Rd; h11am-8pm; mBugis)

7Basheer Graphic BooksBOOKS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Spruce up your coffee table at this cornucopia of graphic books and magazines. Located inside the Bras Basah Complex (locally dubbed 'Book City'), you'll find everything from fashion and design tomes to titles on art, architecture and urban planning. The shop also does a brisk mail-order business, so if you're mid-travel and want to have something mailed to you, staff are happy to help.

(www.facebook.com/BasheerGraphic; 04-19, Bras Basah Complex, 231 Bain St; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mBugis, City Hall)

7Straits RecordsMUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Hiding up a set of stairs, Straits Records is one of the few alternative music stores in Singapore. Stock includes hip hop, hardcore and reggae CDs, as well as some old vinyl, T-shirts and books. CDs from local bands start at around $10.

(24A Bali Lane; h3-10pm Mon-Fri, 2-10pm Sat, 2-8pm Sun; mBugis)

l

Local Life

Haji Lane

Fashion fiends in search of lesser-known (and locally grown) labels flock to Haji Lane ( GOOGLE MAP ; Haji Lane; mBugis), a pastel-hued strip in Kampong Glam lined with hipster-approved, one-off boutiques. Dulcetfig ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.dulcetfig.com; 41 Haji Lane; hnoon-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun; mBugis) drives female fashion bloggers wild with its cool local and foreign frocks and accessories, which include high-end vintage bags and jewellery.

Sentosa

THANK YOU/GETTY IMAGES ©

Epitomised by its star attraction, Universal Studios, Sentosa is essentially one giant Pleasure Island. The choices are head-spinning, from duelling roller coasters and indoor skydiving to stunt shows and luge racing. Add to this a historic fort, state-of-the-art aquarium and Ibiza-inspired beachside bars and restaurants, and it's clear why locals head here to live a little.

The Sights in a Day

M Only the truly insane would attempt to experience all of Sentosa's attractions in one day, so choose a few and enjoy them thoroughly. You could easily spend the entire day lapping up the rides, shows, food and shops at Universal Studios.

R Feast on Malay hawker favourites at Malaysian Food Street, then spend the afternoon at Universal Studios. Explore the deep at S.E.A. Aquarium, or dabble in history at Images of Singapore or Fort Siloso. Adrenalin junkie options include indoor skydiving at iFly and luge racing at Sentosa Luge & Skyride, while those who prefer their thrills dripping wet should head to Wave House or Adventure Cove Waterpark.

N Slide into evening with sunset mojitos at Coastes, Tanjong Beach Club or Woobar, then dine marina-side at Mykonos on the Bay or Sabio by the Sea. For sheer romance and a fine-dining menu, book a table at discrete, hilltop Cliff.

1  Top Sights

Universal Studios

x  Best of Singapore

Food & Drink

Cliff

Malaysian Food Street

Kith Cafe

Thrills & Spills

Universal Studios

iFly

Wave House

For Families

Universal Studios

Adventure Cove Waterpark

Songs of the Sea

Getting There

Cable car Ride the cable car from Mt Faber or the Harbour-Front Centre.

Monorail The Sentosa Express (7am to midnight) connects Vivo-City to three stations on Sentosa: Waterfront, Imbiah and Beach.

Walk Simply walk across the Sentosa Boardwalk from VivoCity.

1

Top Sights

Universal Studios

Hankering for a little unadulterated fun? Then Universal Studios is looking at you, kid. The top-draw attraction at Resorts World, its booty of rides, roller coasters, shows, shops and restaurants are neatly packaged into fantasy-world themes based on your favourite Hollywood films. Attractions span the toddler-friendly to the seriously gut-wrenching, spread across a storybook landscape of castles, temples, jungles, retro Americana and sci-fi fantasy. Big kid or small, expect to leave with a blockbuster grin.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.rwsentosa.com; Resorts World; adult/child/senior $74/54/36; h10am-7pm Sun-Fri, to 8pm Sat; Waterfront

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS SINGAPORE, RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA ©

y Top Tips

A Skip entry queues by buying tickets online.

A Friday to Sunday is busiest, Wednesday morning is generally quietest. Avoid public holidays altogether.

A Consider wearing flip-flops (thongs), especially if you plan on hitting water-themed rides like Rapids Adventure.

A The lockers just to the right of the entrance to Universal Studios are cheaper than those inside the theme park. Pass-outs are allowed.

5 Take a Break

Cafes and restaurants throughout Universal Studios serve Western and Asian dishes.

For authentic Malaysian hawker food, opt for Malaysian Food Street, an indoor hawker centre just outside the theme-park entrance.

Don't Miss

Battlestar Galactica

If you're a hard-core thrill-seeker, strap yourself onto Battlestar Galactica, the world's tallest duelling roller coasters. Choose between the sit-down Human roller coaster or the Cylon, an inverted roller coaster with multiple loops and flips. If you can pull your attention away from screaming, be sure to enjoy the bird's-eye view, not to mention the refreshing breeze.

Transformers The Ride

This exhilarating, next-generation motion thrill ride deploys high-definition 3D animation to transport you to a dark, urban otherworld where you’ll be battling giant menacing robots, engaging in high-speed chases and even plunging off the edge of a soaring skyscraper. It’s an incredibly realistic, adrenalin-pumping experience that will leave you lining up for a second fix.

Revenge of the Mummy

The main attraction of the park's Ancient Egypt section, Revenge of the Mummy will have you twisting, dipping and hopping in darkness on your search for the Book of the Living. Contrary to Hollywood convention, your journey ends with a surprising, fiery twist.

WaterWorld

Gripping stunts, fiery explosions and ridiculously fit eye candy is what you get at WaterWorld, a spectacular live show based on the Kevin Costner flick. Head here at least 20 minutes before show time if you want a decent seat. For a drenching, sit in the soak zone right at the front.

1 Top Sights

Universal Studios  D2

1 Sights

1S.E.A. Aquarium  D1

2Adventure Cove Waterpark  C1

3iFly  C2

4Wave House  B2

5Sentosa Luge & Skyride  C2

6MegaZip  B2

7Fort Siloso  A1

8Images of Singapore  C2

9Butterfly Park & Insect Kingdom  B1

10Gogreen Segway Eco Adventure  C2

5 Eating

11Cliff  E4

12Mykonos on the Bay  E3

13Sabio by the Sea  E3

Malaysian Food Street  D1

14Kith Cafe  E3

6 Drinking

15Tanjong Beach Club  E4

16Coastes  B2

17Woobar  E3

3 Entertainment

18Songs of the Sea  C3

Sights

1S.E.A. AquariumAQUARIUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You'll be gawking at over 800 species of aquatic creatures at the world's biggest aquarium. It's a sprawling, state-of-the-art complex that re-creates 49 aquatic habitats found between Southeast Asia, Australia and Africa. The Open Ocean habitat is especially spectacular; its viewing panel (36m long, 8.3m high) is the world's largest. Adjoining the aquarium is the interactive Maritime Experiential Museum, which explores the history of the maritime Silk Route.

(www.rwsentosa.com; Resorts World; adult/child incl entry to Maritime Experiential Museum $38/28; h10am-7pm; Waterfront)

S.E.A Aquarium

SHIRLYN LOO/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Adventure Cove WaterparkSWIMMING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The choice of rides at this water park is somewhat limited and better suited to kids and families. That said, adult thrill-seekers will appreciate the Riptide Rocket (a hydro-magnetic coaster), Pipeline Plunge and Bluewater Bay, a wave pool with serious gusto. Rainbow Reef sees you snorkelling among 20,000 fish, and for an extra charge, you can wade with stingrays. The popular Dolphin Island attraction allows visitors to interact with dolphins, though it has received criticism from animal welfare groups.

(www.rwsentosa.com; Resorts World Sentosa; adult/child $36/26; h10am-6pm; Waterfront)

1iFlyINDOOR SKYDIVING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you fancy freefalling from 12,000ft to 3,000ft without leaping out of a plane, leap into this indoor skydiving centre. The price includes an hour's instruction followed by two short but thrilling skydives in a vertical wind chamber. Check the website for off-peak times, which offer the cheapest rates.

(www.iflysingapore.com; Cable Car Rd; adult/child from $79/70; h10.30am-10pm Thu-Tue, noon-10pm Wed; Beach)

1Wave HouseSURFING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Two specially designed wave pools allow surf dudes and dudettes to practise their gashes and their cutbacks at ever-popular Wave House. The non-curling Double Flowrider is good for beginners, while the 10ft FlowBarrel is more challenging. Wave House also includes beachside eating and drinking options.

(www.wavehousesentosa.com; Siloso Beach; 1hr double flowrider surf session from $35; h10.30am-10.30pm, Double Flowrider 11am-10pm, FlowBarrel 1-10pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 11am-10pm Wed, Sat & Sun; Beach)

1Skyline Luge SentosaTOBOGGANING

GOOGLE MAP

Take the skyride chairlift from Siloso Beach to Imbiah Lookout, then hop onto your luge (think go-cart meets toboggan) and race family and friends through hairpin bends and bone-shaking straights carved through the forest (helmets are provided and mandatory!).

(www.sentosa.com.sg; luge & skyride combo from $15; h10am-9.30pm; Beach)

1MegaZipZIPLINING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Check out this 450m-long, 75m-tall zipline from Imbiah Lookout to a tiny island off Siloso Beach. An electric cart is on hand to shuttle riders up from the beach to the start point, where there's also a small adventure park with a climbing wall ($19) and other activities.

(www.megazip.com.sg; Siloso Beach; zipline ride $39; h11am-7pm; Beach)

1Fort SilosoMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Dating from the 1880s, when Sentosa was called Pulau Blakang Mati (Malay for 'the island behind which lies death'), this British coastal fort proved famously useless during the Japanese invasion of 1942. Documentaries, artefacts, animatronics and re-created historical scenes talk visitors through the fort's history, and the underground tunnels are fun to explore.

(www.sentosa.com.sg; Siloso Point; adult/child $12/9; h10am-6pm, free guided tours 12.40pm & 3.40pm Fri-Sun; Sentosa)

1Images of SingaporeMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This interactive museum uses wax dummies, film footage and dramatic light-and-sound effects to traverse seven centuries of Singapore history. Kicking off with Singapore's Malay sultanate days, exhibits weave their way through its consolidation as a port and trading centre, WWII and the subsequent Japanese surrender.

(www.sentosa.com.sg; Imbiah Lookout; adult/child $10/7; h9am-7pm; Beach)

1Butterfly Park & Insect KingdomWILDLIFE RESERVE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A tropical rainforest in miniature, the Butterfly Park claims over 50 species of butterflies, many of which are endangered and nearly all of which have been bred in the park itself. Critters at the Insect Kingdom include thousands of mounted butterflies, rhino beetles, Hercules beetles (the world's largest) and scorpions.

(www.sentosa.com.sg; Imbiah Lookout, 51 Imbiah Rd; adult/child $16/10; h9.30am-7pm; Imbiah)

1Gogreen Segway Eco AdventureTOUR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

These two-wheeled transporters will have you zipping around a 10-minute 'fun ride' circuit or, if you prefer, exploring the beachfront on a guided Eco Adventure trip. Equally futuristic are the electric bikes, yours to hire for $12 an hour. Eco Adventure riders must be at least 10 years old.

(%9825 4066; www.segway-sentosa.com; fun ride $12, 30-min eco adventure $38; h10am-8pm; Beach)

y

Top Tip

Entrance Fee & Transport

The entrance fee to Sentosa varies according to the transport chosen: pedestrians walking across from VivoCity pay $1, passengers on the Sentosa Express monorail pay $4, while cable-car passengers have the entrance fee included in the price of the cable car ticket. Once on the island, it's easy to get around, either by walking, taking the Sentosa Express (7am to midnight), riding the free 'beach tram' (shuttling the length of all three beaches) or by using the three free colour-coded bus routes that link the main attractions. On Sentosa, the monorail, tram and buses are free.

Eating

5CliffINTERNATIONAL $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Perched high above Palawan Beach (although tree cover obscures some of the view), fine-dining Cliff is set by the dreamy swimming-pool area of luxury hotel Sentosa Resort. Book two weeks ahead to secure a coveted table by the balcony's edge – an especially evocative spot to savour artful dishes with predominantly French and Italian influences. Vegetarian options are few and far between.

(%6371 1425; www.sentosadining.com.sg; 2 Bukit Manis Rd, Sentosa Resort; mains $28-98; h6.30-10pm; Beach, then bus 3)

5Mykonos on the BayGREEK $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

At Sentosa Cove, this slick, marina-flanking taverna serves up Hellenic flavours that could make your papou weep. Sit alfresco and tuck into perfectly charred, marinated octopus, aubergine salad and housemade giaourtlou (spicy lamb sausage). Book ahead later in the week.

(%6334 3818; www.mykonosonthebay.com; 01-10 Quayside Isle, 31 Ocean Way, Sentosa Cove; tapas $9-27, mains $23-45; h6.30-10.30pm Mon-Wed, noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Thu & Fri, noon-10.30pm Sat & Sun; v; Beach, then bus 3)

5Sabio by the SeaSPANISH $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of a row of bustling, waterside restaurants at Sentosa Cove, stylish Sabio is a gorgeous spot for languid tropical evenings drinking Caipirinhas, grazing on tapas and fantasing about the millionaire boats moored before you. Winning tapas include the garlicky mushrooms, fluffy croquetas stuffed with gooey Manchego cheese and the beautifully grilled vegetables. Figure three plates per person.

(%6690 7568; sabio.sg/bythesea; 31 Ocean Way, 01-02; tapas $6-22, paella from $25; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-10.30pm Fri & Sat, 10.30am-10pm Sun; W; Beach, then bus 3)

5Malaysian Food StreetHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With its faux Malaysian streetscape, this indoor hawker centre beside Universal Studios feels a bit Disney. Thankfully, there's nothing fake about the food, cooked by some of Malaysia's best hawker vendors.

(www.rwsentosa.com; Resorts World; snacks from $1, dishes from $3; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 9am-11pm Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm Sun; Waterfront)

5Kith CafeCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This is the best of Kith's trio of outlets, set beside million-dollar yachts at salubrious Sentosa Cove. Grab a copy of Kinfolk, scan the crowd and tuck into fantastic cafe grub like Blackstone Eggs (English muffins with poached eggs, roasted tomatoes, bacon, grilled asparagus and hollandaise sauce).

(www.kith.com.sg; 31 Ocean Way, Sentosa Cove; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon; v; Beach, then bus 3)

Drinking

6Tanjong Beach ClubBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Generally quieter than the bars on Siloso beach (except during the busy Sunday brunch session), Tanjong Beach Club is an evocative spot, with evening torches on the sand, a small stylish pool for guests and a sultry lounge-and-funk soundtrack.

(%6270 1355; www.tanjongbeachclub.com; Tanjong Beach; h11am-11pm Tue-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; Beach, then Sentosa Beach Tram)

Siloso Beach

PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©

6CoastesBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

More family-friendly than many of the other beach venues, Coastes has picnic tables on the sand and sun lounges ($20) by the water. If you're peckish, there's a comprehensive menu of decent standard offerings, including burgers, pasta and salads.

(Siloso Beach; h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; Beach)

6WoobarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The W Singapore's hotel bar is glam and camp, with suspended egg-shaped pods, gold footrests and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out at palms and pool. The afternoon 'high tea' (from $58 for two, excluding tax) is served in dainty birdcages, while the weekly Wednesday Ladies' Night ($36 before tax) comes with free-pour champagne between 7.30pm and 9pm, followed by half-price drinks until midnight.

(www.wsingaporesentosacove.com; W Singapore, Sentosa Cove, 21 Ocean Way; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri-Sun; Beach, then bus 3)

Entertainment

3Songs of the SeaTHEATRE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Set around a replica Malay fishing village, this ambitious show fuses Lloyd Webber–esque theatricality with an awe-inspiring sound, light and laser extravaganza worth a hefty $4 million. Prepare to gasp, swoon and (occasionally) cringe.

(www.sentosa.com.sg; Siloso Beach; standard/premium seats $15/18; hshows 7.40pm & 8.40pm; Beach)

l

Local Life

Endless Summer Pool Party

The jaw-dropping pool of the W Singapore - Sentosa Cove hotel (www.wsingaporesentosacove.com) is the setting for its hugely popular pool party Endless Summer. Usually held on the first Sunday of the month, it draws a diverse crowd of locals, expats and hotel guests, both straight and gay, young and not so young. It's a fabulous way to spend a lazy, boozy, tropical afternoon, with DJ sets, live music, and no shortage of oversized sunglasses, bikinis and six-packs. Visit the hotel website for dates and to book.

1

Top Sights

Singapore Zoo

While some of the world's zoos are boring or even cruel, Singapore Zoo is a verdant, tropical wonderland of spacious, naturalistic enclosures, freely roaming animals and interactive attractions. Breakfast with orang-utans, dodge flying foxes, mosey up to tree-hugging sloths, even snoop around a replica African village. Then there's the setting: 28 soothing hectares on a lush peninsula jutting out onto the waters of the Upper Seletar Reservoir. Miss it at your own peril.

Getting There

Singapore Zoo is 22km northwest of the CBD.

m Catch the North-South (red) line to Ang Mo Kio, then bus 138 to the zoo.

Orang-utans

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

GOOGLE MAP

%6269 3411; www.zoo.com.sg; 80 Mandai Lake Rd; adult/child $28/18; h8.30am-6pm; mAng Mo Kio then bus 138

y Top Tips

A Consider combining your trip with a visit to the neighbouring Night Safari.

A Wear comfortable shoes, a sunhat and sunglasses. Ponchos are available ($5) in case of rain. If you have kids, bring swimwear for Rainforest Kidzworld.

A Feeding times are staggered. Check the website for details.

5 Take a Break

There's no shortage of eateries on-site, serving everything from thin-crust pizza and American fast food to local staples like laksa, Hainanese chicken rice and nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk with fried ikan bilis, peanuts and a curry dish).

Don't Miss

Jungle Breakfast with Wildlife

Orang-utans are the zoo's celebrity residents and you can devour a scrumptious breakfast buffet in their company at Jungle Breakfast with Wildlife ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child $33/23; h9-10.30am). If you miss out, get your photo taken with them at the neighbouring Free Ranging Orang-utan Island (11am and 3.30pm). Best of all, you're free to use your own camera.

Fragile Forest

Further close encounters await at the Fragile Forest, a giant biodome that replicates the stratas of a rainforest. Cross paths with free-roaming butterflies and colourful lories, swooping Malayan flying foxes and unperturbed ring-tailed lemurs. The pathway leads up to the forest canopy and the dome’s most chilled-out locals, the two-toed sloths.

Great Rift Valley of Ethiopia

Featuring cliffs, a waterfall and a stream fashioned to look like the Ethiopian hinterland, the evocative Great Rift Valley exhibit is home to Hamadryas baboons, Nubian ibexes, banded mongooses, black-backed jackals and rock hyraxes. You'll also find replica Ethiopian villages, complete with dwelling huts and insight into the area's harsh living conditions.

Rainforest Kidzworld

Let your own little critters go wild at Rainforest Kidzworld ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-6pm), a technicolor play area complete with slides, swings, pulling boats and a carousel. Kids can also ride ponies, feed farmyard animals and squeal to their heart's content in the wet-play area. Swimwear is available for purchase on-site if you don't have your own.

1

Top Sights

Night Safari

Next door to Singapore Zoo, but completely separate, Singapore's acclaimed Night Safari offers a very different type of nightlife. Home to over 120 species of animals, the park's moats and barriers seem to melt away in the darkness, giving you the feeling of travelling through a thrilling jungle filled with the likes of lions, leopards and alligators. The atmosphere is heightened even further by the herds of strolling antelopes, often passing within inches of the trams that take you around.

Getting There

Located beside the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari is 22km northwest of the CBD.

m Catch the North-South (red) line to Ang Mo Kio, then bus 138 to the zoo.

Malayan tiger

MANOJ SHAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

GOOGLE MAP

www.nightsafari.com.sg; 80 Mandai Lake Rd; adult/child $39/25; h7.30pm-midnight, restaurants & shops from 5.30pm; mAng Mo Kio, then bus 138

y Top Tips

A When returning from the safari, you should catch a bus at around 10.35pm as the last MRT train leaves Ang Mo Kio at 11.35pm. Otherwise, expect to pay around $23 for a taxi to the city centre.

A Wear comfortable shoes and bring insect repellent and an umbrella, just in case.

5 Take a Break

Food and drink options abound outside the entrance. Bongo Burgers ( GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30pm-midnight) serves tasty burgers. For local specialities there's kampong-inspired Ulu Ulu ( GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30-11pm), with both à la carte options and a buffet.

Don't Miss

Electric Tram Tour

Almost everyone heads to the tram queue as they enter, and you should too. These near-silent, open-sided vehicles come with a guide whose commentary is a good introduction to the park's animals and different habitats. The journey lasts for 45 minutes, though we highly recommend that you alight at the designated stops to explore more of the park on foot. If possible, opt for the second or third cars as they offer the best view.

Walking Trails

The grounds offer four interlinked walking trails, each taking between 20 and 30 minutes to explore. Get centimetres away from wild spotted felines on the Leopard Trail, also home to the thrilling Giant Flying Squirrel aviary. Peer at splash-happy cats and the world's largest bat, the Malay flying fox, on the Fishing Cat Trail. The Wallaby Trail is home to a walk-through wallaby habitat, while the outstanding East Lodge Trail awaits with highly endangered babirusas and elegant Malay tigers.

Creatures of the Night

If you have kids in tow, don't miss Creatures of the Night ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30pm, 8.30pm & 9.30pm, plus 10.30pm Fri & Sat), an interactive 20-minute show with stars that include binturongs, civets and an owl. Seating is unassigned, so it's a good idea to arrive a little early to secure a good vantage point. Note that shows may be cancelled in case of wet weather.

Holland Village & Dempsey Hill

HEINRICH VAN DEN BERG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Chic, salubrious Holland Village may not be a must for visitors, but its boutiques, cafes and lunching ladies offer a revealing slice of expat life. Even leafier is historic Dempsey Hill, a converted barracks laced with antiques dealers, boutiques, cafes and languid bistros. Upstaging them both is the Botanic Gardens, an invigorating blend of rare orchids, precious rainforest and romantic dining.

The Sights in a Day

M Beat the heat with an early-morning saunter through the Botanic Gardens, keeping cool in the ancient rainforest, circling Swan Lake and dropping in on Vanda Miss Joaquim (Singapore's national flower) at the National Orchid Centre. Appetite piqued, head across to Chopsuey for dim sum or PS Cafe for beautiful global fare, then shop-hop Dempsey Hill for antiques, art and accessories at stores like Shang Antique and Em Gallery.

R Spend the afternoon in trendy, expat enclave Holland Village. Cool down with gourmet ice cream at Daily Scoop or a glass of vino at Park. Refreshed, scour Holland Village Shopping Centre for arts, craft and knick-knacks, or head upstairs for a manicure.

N Come evening, head back to the Botanic Gardens for romantic noshing at Halia or heady, Ubud-style Blue Bali. Alternatively, head back to Dempsey Hill for superlative seafood at Long Beach Seafood, followed by craft suds at neighbouring RedDot Brewhouse.

1  Top Sights

Singapore Botanic Gardens

x  Best of Singapore

Eating

Chopsuey

Halia

PS Cafe

Drinking

Red Dot Brewhouse

Shopping

Shang Antique

Getting There

m MRT Holland Village and the Botanic Gardens both have their own MRT stops on the Yellow Line.

g Bus To reach Dempsey Hill, catch bus 7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123 or 174 from behind Orchard MRT, on Orchard Blvd. Buses 75 and 106 are two of several linking Dempsey Hill with Holland Village.

1

Top Sights

Singapore Botanic Gardens

For instant stress relief, take a dose of the Singapore Botanic Gardens. Suddenly the roar of traffic and 5.4 million voices melts into the branches, and the world is a tranquil, verdant paradise. At the tail end of Orchard Rd, Singapore's most famous sprawl of greenery offers more than just picnic-friendly lawns and lakes. It's home to ancient rainforest, themed gardens, rare orchids, free concerts and one of Singapore's most romantic nosh spots. Breathe in, breathe out.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%6471 7361; www.sbg.org.sg; 1 Cluny Rd; garden admission free, National Orchid Garden adult/child $5/free; h5am-midnight, National Orchid Garden 8.30am-7pm, last entry 6pm, Healing Garden 5am-7.30pm Wed-Mon, Jacob Ballas Children's Garden 8am-7pm, last entry 6.30pm Tue-Sun; g7, 105, 123, 174, mBotanic Gardens

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Excellent, volunteer-run guided tours of the Botanic Gardens take place every Saturday. See the website for times and themes.

A Check the website for free opera concerts, occasionally held at the Botanic Gardens' Symphony Lake.

A Buy water when you see it, not when you need it: signage in the Botanic Gardens is not always consistent and backtracking is hardly fun, especially when you're thirsty.

y Take a Break

For a romantic nosh among the Botanic Garden's ginger plants, grab a table at Halia.

Even more atmospheric is Indonesian restaurant Blue Bali. Skirting the Botanical Gardens, its alfresco pavilions and cabanas look straight out of Ubud.

Don't Miss

National Orchid Garden

The Botanic Gardens' now famous orchid breeding began in 1928 and you can get the historical low-down at the National Orchid Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Cluny Park Rd, Botanic Gardens; adult/child $5/free; h8.30am-7pm). To date, its 3 hectares are home to over 1000 species and 2000 hybrids, around 600 of which are on display – the largest showcase of tropical orchids on Earth.

Rainforest

Older than the Botanic Gardens themselves, this precious patch of dense primeval rainforest offers a sample of the kind that once carpeted much of Singapore. Hit the rainforest boardwalk and surround yourself with 314 species of vegetation; over half are now considered rare in Singapore.

Ginger Garden

If you thought there was only one type of ginger, the compact Ginger Garden will set you straight. Located next to the National Orchid Garden, this 1-hectare space contains over 250 members of the Zingiberaceae family. It's also where you'll find ginger-centric restaurant Halia. A supporting cast of plants include the little-known Lowiaceae, with their orchid-like flowers.

Swan Lake

For lazy serenity and a touch of romanticism, it's hard to beat Swan Lake. One of three lakes in the Botanic Gardens, it's studded by a tiny island cluttered with nibong palms. Look out for the mute swans, imported all the way from Amsterdam.

1 Top Sights

Singapore Botanic Gardens  G2

5 Eating

1Chopsuey  F5

2PS Cafe  F4

3Long Beach Seafood  F4

4White Rabbit  G4

5Blue Bali  G1

6Halia  G3

7Casa Verde  G2

8Food Canopy  H1

9Da Paolo Pizza Bar  B3

10Holland Village Market & Food Centre  A3

112am Dessert Bar  A3

12Daily Scoop  B3

6 Drinking

13Park  A3

14RedDot Brewhouse  F4

15Wala Wala Café Bar  A3

7 Shopping

16Shang Antique  F4

17Em Gallery  F4

18Pasardina Fine Living  F4

19Holland Village Shopping Centre  A3

Eating

5ChopsueyCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Swirling ceiling fans, crackly 1930s tunes and preened ladies on rattan chairs – Chopsuey has colonial chic down pat. It peddles revamped versions of retro American-Chinese dishes, but the real highlight here is the lunchtime yum cha. Standouts include Sichuan tofu, prawn dumplings and san choi bao. The marble bar is perfect for solo diners.

(%9224 6611; www.chopsueycafe.com; Block 10, Dempsey Rd; dim sum $7-15; h11.30am-4pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm & 6.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun, bar to 11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

5PS CafeINTERNATIONAL $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A chic, light-filled tropical oasis of wooden floorboards, floor-to-ceiling windows and patio tables facing thick tropical foliage. From brunch to dinner, edibles are beautiful and healthy, whether it's fish croquette Benedict or a 'Morocco miracle stack' of roasted portobello mushroom, grilled vegetables, smoked eggplant and couscous. The weekend brunch is a no-bookings affair, so head in by 10.30am to avoid the longest queues.

(%9070 8782; www.pscafe.com; 28B Harding Rd; mains $23-36; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; v; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

5Long Beach SeafoodSEAFOOD $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of Singapore's top seafood restaurant chains. Settle in on the verandah, gaze out at thick forest and tackle the cult-status black-pepper crab. The original Long Beach lays claim to inventing the iconic dish, and the version here is fantastically peppery and earthy.

(%6323 2222; www.longbeachseafood.com.sg; 25 Dempsey Rd, 01-01; crab per kg around $60; h11am-3pm & 5.30pm-1.30am; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

5White RabbitINTERNATIONAL $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Dempsey Hill's garrison church has been reborn as a sophisticated, white-washed dining room and bar. Find the light in tweaked Euro comforters like tagliatelle pasta with Alaskan king crab, pork broth and kombu; 36-hour short ribs with truffle miso glaze; or warm banana pudding with ginger anglaise. Weekend brunch (10.30am to 3pm) combines standard menu items with breakfast staples like eggs and French toast.

(www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg; 39C Harding Rd; 2/3 course set lunch menu from $32/38, mains $32-52; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

5Blue BaliINDONESIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Skirting the Botanic Gardens, Blue Bali is an enchanting dreamscape of Balinese wooden pavilions, cabanas over water and sarong-wrapped staff. Head in for a romantic sundowner and tapas-style bites such as Javanese satay, fried homemade tofu or chilli-spiked pumpkin prawns, all of which better suit the low tables than the mains. Great happy hour deals run from 5pm to 8pm.

(%6733 0185; www.bluebali.sg; 1D Cluny Rd; tapas $8-20, mains $16-32; h3pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W; mBotanic Gardens)

5HaliaFUSION $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Atmospheric Halia is surrounded by the Botanic Gardens' ginger plants, a fact echoed in a number of unusual ginger-based dishes. Menus are a competent, fusion affair (think chilli crab spaghettini or Parmesan and almond-crusted stingray), and the weekday set lunch ($28/32 for two/three courses) is especially good value. There's a dedicated vegetarian dinner menu, and at weekends you can also come for brunch (10am to 4pm) or English tea (3pm to 5pm).

(%6476 6711; www.halia.com.sg; Singapore Botanic Gardens, 1 Cluny Rd; mains $28-68, dinner set menu $88-98, English tea $28; hnoon-4pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm & 6-10pm Sat & Sun; v; mBotanic Gardens)

5Casa VerdeINTERNATIONAL $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The most accessible and family-friendly restaurant in the Botanic Gardens, ‘Green House’ serves up decent Western grub (pasta, salads, sandwiches), plus wood-fired pizzas and a smattering of local dishes.

(Singapore Botanic Gardens, 1 Cluny Rd; lunch $9-18, pizzas $21-25, dinner mains $25-30; h7.30am-9.30pm; c; mBotanic Gardens)

5Food CanopyHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You'll find this breezy collection of hawker stalls outside the Botanic Gardens' Healing Garden. There's no shortage of favourites, from kaya toast and kopi (coffee) to roasted duck, ginseng chicken soup, Korean bibimbap and Indian rojak. The Tom Yam Fried Fish Bee Hoon from the Handmade Noodles stall is especially good. If coming by taxi, tell the driver it's next to the Raffles Building.

(1J Cluny Rd; dishes from $3; h7am-8pm; mBotanic Gardens)

5Da Paolo Pizza BarITALIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The successful Da Paolo chain has two outlets on this street alone: a deli-cafe (at No 43) and this polished bistro with terrace seating. Under a cowhide ceiling, svelte expats nosh on delicious thin-crust pizzas, competent pastas and a showstopping warm peanut butter caramel chocolate brownie. There's a good-value set lunch ($23) and a two-for-one happy hour from noon to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 7.30pm.

(www.dapaolo.com.sg; 44 Jln Merah Saga; pizzas $19-29, pasta $22-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; mHolland Village)

5Holland Village Market & Food CentreHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Avoid the run-of-the-mill restaurants across the street and join the locals for cheap, scrumptious Singapore grub. A small clutch of stalls sell chicken rice, prawn noodles and other hawker staples. If you're new to the hawker food scene, there's a handy signboard outside that gives the low-down on the most popular dishes.

(Lor Mambong; dishes from $3; h10am-late; mHolland Village)

Holland Village Market & Food Centre

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

52am Dessert BarDESSERT $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Posh desserts with wine and cocktail pairings is the deal at this swanky hideout. While the menu includes savoury grub like burgers and beef-cheek croquettes, you're here for Janice Wong's sweet showstoppers, from basil white chocolate to purple potato puree with blackberry parfait, leather, lavender marshmallows and fruits of the forest sorbet. Book ahead if heading here Thursday to Saturday night.

(www.2amdessertbar.com; 21A Lorong Liput; dishes $15-20; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; mHolland Village)

5Daily ScoopICE CREAM $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Pimped with whimsical murals, Daily Scoop keeps punters cool with over 40 creative flavours of hand-churned ice cream. Get indecisive over flavours like strawberry shortcake or durian, slurp on a thick milkshake, or fill up on waffles or rich, cheeky brownies.

(www.thedailyscoop.com.sg; 43 Jln Merah Saga; ice cream from $3.50; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat, 2-10pm Sun; mHolland Village)

l

Local Life

Temple Yoga

If the sound of yoga in a Hindu temple makes your chakras glow, Sri Muneeswaran Hindu Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Commonwealth Drive; mCommonwealth) should be on your hit list. Believed to be the largest shrine for the deity Sri Muneeswaran in Southeast Asia, it offers free hatha yoga classes on Sundays and Mondays (6pm to 7pm and 7pm to 8pm), with a dedicated class for children on Sundays (5.30pm to 7pm).

Understand

A Political Primer

Politics in Singapore is both everywhere and nowhere.

Everywhere, in the sense that everything you see, read and hear – with the increasingly significant exception of the web pages that pop up on the computer screens of Singapore's citizens – has at some point felt the guiding hand of government. But it's nowhere, in that the ebb and flow of conflicting opinions and ideas in a public forum is almost nonexistent.

Sole Political Force

The People's Action Party (PAP) has held power in Singapore since 1959 and has been virtually the sole political force since 1965, when the island was evicted from the Malay Federation after an uneasy alliance forged in 1963. Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew famously cried on TV the day Singapore was left to fend for itself, but he's shed few tears since.

The white-clad party he led with steely paternalism is still in control and is currently led by his son, Lee Hsien Loong. Opposition voices have been removed from the political process via lawsuits and financial ruin. (According to Singapore law, bankrupted citizens aren't allowed to run for election.) Many Singaporeans find persuasive the argument that a successful government doesn't need challenging, while others believe that the government – precisely because of its success – ought to be more tolerant of criticism.

Appetite for Change

In 2006 the ruling PAP won the expected majority in a landslide victory, claiming 82 of the 84 seats in parliament, but their actual votes fell by 8.69%. The appetite for change was even clearer with the election of 2011, which had the highest proportion of contested seats (94.3%) since Singapore's independence in 1965. The PAP lost a further 6.46% of the electorate, gaining 60.14% of the votes and 81 of the 87 seats. The biggest gains went to the Worker's Party (WP), whose political agenda puts the spotlight on concerns facing the average Singaporean. Among these is the rising cost of housing and transport, a fact confirmed by the Economist Intelligence Unit in 2014, which declared Singapore the world's most expensive city to live in.

Drinking

6ParkBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Holland Village's coolest dig sits in converted shipping containers at the top of Holland Ave. Industrial yellow tables, shophouse tiles and filament bulbs deliver a suitably hip fit-out, with outdoor patio seating and well-priced pints for this part of town. Order a side of spam chips (thinly sliced, deep-fried spam), one of life's unexpected surprises.

(281 Holland Ave, 01-01; h10am-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mHolland Village)

6RedDot BrewhouseMICROBREWERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

In a quiet spot in Dempsey Hill, RedDot Brewhouse has been pouring its own microbrews for years. Ditch the average food and focus on the suds, sipped to the sound of screeching parrots. There are nine beers on tap (from $6 for a half-pint), including an eye-catching, spirulina-spiked green pilsner. Happy hour runs from noon to 7pm, with $4 half-pints and $8 pints.

(www.reddotbrewhouse.com.sg; 25A Dempsey Rd; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

6Wala Wala Café BarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Perennially packed at weekends (and on most evenings, in fact), Wala Wala's main draw is its live music on the 2nd floor, with warm-up acts Monday to Friday from 7pm, and main acts nightly from 9.30pm. Downstairs it pulls in football fans with its large sports screens. Like most of the places here, tables spill out onto the street in the evenings.

(www.walawala.sg; 31 Lorong Mambong; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri, 3pm-2am Sat, 3pm-1am Sun; mHolland Village)

l

Local Life

Singapore Turf Club

Although not quite as manic as the Hong Kong races, a trip to Singapore Turf Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.turfclub.com.sg; 1 Turf Club Ave; Level 1 Grandstand & Level 2 Gallop $6, Owners' Lounge $30; mKranji) is nevertheless a hugely popular day out (bring your passport). Races usually run on Fridays (6.20pm to 10.50pm) and Sundays (12.50pm to 6.30pm) and a dress code is enforced: no jogging shorts or singlets in the public grandstand; no shorts, collarless T-shirts or sandals in the Owners' Lounge.

Shopping

7Shang AntiqueANTIQUES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Specialising in antique religious artefacts from Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, India and Burma, as well as reproductions, there are items in here dating back nearly 2000 years, with price tags to match. Those with more style than savings can pick up anything from old opium pots to beautiful table runners for under $30.

(www.shangantique.com.sg; 18D Dempsey Rd; h10.30am-7pm; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

7Em GalleryFASHION, HOMEWARES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Singapore-based Japanese designer Emiko Nakamura keeps Dempsey's lunching ladies looking fab in her light, sculptural creations. Emiko also collaborates with hilltribes in northern Laos to create naturally dyed handwoven handicrafts, such as bags and cushions. Other homewares might include limited-edition (and reasonably priced) Khmer pottery from Cambodia or handmade Thai dinner sets.

(%6475 6941; www.emtradedesign.com; Block 16, 01-04/05, Dempsey Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

7Pasardina Fine LivingANTIQUES, HOMEWARES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

If you plan on giving your home a tropical Asian makeover, this rambling treasure trove is a good starting point. Inspired by traditional Indonesian design, its collection includes beautiful teak furniture, ceramic and wooden statues, bark lampshades and the odd wooden archway.

(13 Demspey Rd; h9.30am-6.30pm; g7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123, 174)

7Holland Village Shopping CentreMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Holland Village Shopping Centre remains a magnet for expats seeking art, handicrafts, homewares and offbeat fashion. Dive into Lim's Arts & Living, where tacky giftware sits alongside some genuinely good finds, from Peranakan-style ceramics to cheongsam frocks. Shopped out: hit the nail spas on Level 3.

(211 Holland Ave; h10am-8.30pm; mHolland Village)

Understand

Tanglin Barracks

One of the first barracks constructed in Singapore, Tanglin Barracks (now better known as Dempsey Hill) made its debut in 1861. The original buildings were spacious, elevated wooden structures topped with thatched    attap (sugar palm) roofs and able to house 50 men. Among the barracks' amenities were hospital wards, wash houses, kitchens, a library, a reading room and a school, as well as officers quarters. Extensive renovation between 1934 and 1936 saw the airy verandahs make way for more interior space, though the French-tiled roofs – which had replaced the original thatched ones decades earlier – were thankfully preserved. Home to the British military for over a century, the barracks served as the headquarters of the Ministry of Defence between 1972 and 1989, before their current reinvention as an upmarket hang-out for lattes, antiques and ladies who lunch.

Southwest Singapore

SENG CHYE TEO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Home to Singapore's epic container terminals, this corner of the city is often overlooked by visitors, who pass through only to take the cable car between Mt Faber and Sentosa. But look closer and you'll find some worthy magnets, among them the spectacular Southern Ridges trail, the elegant NUS Museum and languid, stuck-in-time Colbar.

The Sights in a Day

M Start with a quick bite-to-go at VivoCity, then slip into Labrador Nature Reserve, a slice of tropical forest scattered with wartime relics. If you're lucky, the Labrador Secret Tunnels will have reopened. Alternatively, check out kooky theme park Haw Par Villa. Either way, continue further on the MRT Yellow Line to Kent Ridge, from where a shuttle bus leads to NUS Museum and its beautiful artefacts and art.

R Hop back on the MRT and get off at Pasir Panjang for cheap chow at Eng Lock Koo. From here, amble up to hilltop Reflections at Bukit Chandu to relive the area's bloody past, then step inside adjoining Kent Ridge Park to begin your easy trek along the jungle-fringed Southern Ridges walking trail.

N The walk terminates at Mt Faber, where drinks and dinner are served with stunning views at Japanese restaurant Moonstone. Alternatively, catch a taxi to languid Colbar for cooling ciders and beers in an old British colonial mess hall.

1  Top Sights

Southern Ridges

x  Best of Singapore

Museums & Galleries

NUS Museum

Reflections at Bukit Chandu

Gillman Barracks

Eating

Tamarind Hill

PeraMakan

Shopping

VivoCity

Getting There

m MRT Southwest Singapore is well served by the MRT. Some attractions have their namesake stations. Otherwise, HarbourFront (Yellow and Purple Lines), Pasir Panjang (Yellow Line), Jurong East (Green and Red Lines) and Kent Ridge (Yellow Line) are useful stations.

1

Top Sights

Southern Ridges

A series of parks and hills connecting Mt Faber to West Coast Park, the Southern Ridges will have you trekking through the jungle without ever really leaving the city. While the whole route spans 9km, the best stretch is from Kent Ridge Park to Mt Faber. It's relatively easy, and serves up some stunning sights, from lofty skyline and jungle vistas to a seriously striking, wavelike walkway.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.nparks.gov.sg; mPasir Panjang

Henderson Waves walkway

ALBERT TAN PHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A The best time to hit the trail is late afternoon. You avoid the worst of the midday heat and can make it to Mt Faber in time for sunset drinks or dinner.

A Wear comfortable shoes, sunglasses and a sunhat. If rain is on the cards, bring an umbrella. And always pack plenty of water.

A Bring your camera. The walk delivers beautiful views of the city, jungle and South China Sea.

A If you encounter monkeys, do not feed them. This only encourages them to pester humans.

5 Take a Break

For drinks and yakitori with stunning island and sea views, head to Moonstone.

For more casual bites, opt for Spuds & Aprons, also atop Mt Faber.

Don't Miss

Reflections at Bukit Chandu

Commemorating the last stand of the Malay Regiment against the Japanese in 1942, Reflections at Bukit Chandu ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nhb.gov.sg; 31K Pepys Rd; adult/child $2/1; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; mPasir Panjang) combines firsthand accounts, personal artefacts and films to describe the brutal battle that almost wiped out the regiment.

Kent Ridge Park

Behind Reflections you'll find Kent Ridge Park. It's strangely deserted, so you'll have its short yet wonderful canopy walk pretty much to yourself. From here, stroll downhill to HortPark.

Forest Walk

From HortPark, a leaf-like bridge crosses over Alexandra Rd, leading to the stunning Forest Walk. While you can opt for the Earth trail, the Elevated Walkway is more appealing, offering eye-level views of the jungle canopy covering Telok Blangah Hill.

Henderson Waves

Further along you'll hit the remarkable Henderson Waves, an undulating sculptural walkway suspended 36m above the forest floor. The towers that seem to rise straight out of the jungle are part of Reflections at Keppel Bay – a residential development designed by world-renowned architect Daniel Libeskind.

Mt Faber

Stretching 166m above the southern fringe of the city, Mt Faber's terraced trails wind past strategically positioned viewpoints. It's here you'll find the cable-car service to HarbourFront and Sentosa.

1 Top Sights

Southern Ridges  D3

1 Sights

1Mt Faber Park & Cable Car  G4

2NUS Museum  A1

3Gillman Barracks  D3

4Haw Par Villa  A2

5Labrador Nature Reserve  D5

5 Eating

6Tamarind Hill  D4

7PeraMakan  E5

8Eng Lock Koo  B3

9Faber Peak  G4

6 Drinking

10Colbar  C1

3 Entertainment

11St James Power Station  H5

7 Shopping

12VivoCity  H5

Sights

1Mt Faber Park & Cable CarPARK

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Mt Faber (116m) is the centrepiece of Mt Faber Park and the climax to the Southern Ridges nature walk. The most spectacular way to get here is via the cable car ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.singaporecablecar.com.sg; adult/child return $29/18; h8.45am-9.45pm), which connects Mt Faber to HarbourFront and Sentosa – frustratingly, only return tickets are sold. Alternatively, you can walk. It's a short but steep climb through secondary rainforest, dotted with lookout posts and some splendid colonial-era black-and-white bungalows.

(www.faberpeaksingapore.com; hpark 8.45am-10pm; mHarbourFront)

1NUS MuseumMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Located on the campus of the National University of Singapore (NUS), this trio of small art museums holds some remarkably fine collections. Ancient Chinese ceramics and bronzes dominate the ground-floor Lee Kong Chian Art Museum, while one floor up, the South and Southeast Asian Gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and textiles from the region. Above it, the Ng Eng Teng Gallery is dedicated to Ng Eng Teng (1934–2001), one of Singapore's foremost artists, best known for his figurative sculptures.

(www.nus.edu.sg/museum; 50 Kent Ridge Cres, University Cultural Centre; h10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; mKent Ridge, then bus A2 (university shuttle bus))

1Gillman BarracksGALLERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Built in 1936 as a British military encampment, Gillman Barracks is now a rambling art outpost, with 15 commercial galleries studding verdant grounds. Among the galleries is New York’s Sundaram Tagore, whose stable of artists include award-winning photographers Edward Burtynsky and Annie Leibovitz. Alight at Labrador Park MRT station and walk north up Alexandra Rd for 800m; the entry to Gillman Barracks is on your right. A one-way taxi fare from the CBD costs around $10.

(www.gillmanbarracks.com; 9 Lock Rd; hindividual galleries vary, generally 11am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; mLabrador Park)

1Haw Par VillaMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The refreshingly weird and kitsch Haw Par Villa was the brainchild of Aw Boon Haw, the creator of the medicinal salve Tiger Balm. After building a villa here in 1937 for his beloved brother and business partner, Aw Boon Par, the siblings began building a Chinese mythology theme park within the grounds. The result is a curious garden of garish statues and dioramas, each recounting Chinese folk stories and fables.

(%6872 2780; 262 Pasir Panjang Rd; h9am-7pm, Ten Courts of Hell exhibit 9am-6pm; mHaw Par Villa)

1Labrador Nature ReservePARK

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Combining forest trails rich in birdlife and a beachfront park, Labrador Park is scattered with evocative war relics, only rediscovered in the 1980s. Look out for old gun emplacements mounted on moss-covered concrete casements as well as for the remains of the entrance to the old fort that stood guard on this hill. The Labrador Secret Tunnels – a fascinating series of storage and armament bunkers – were closed indefinitely at the time of writing.

(www.nparks.gov.sg; Labrador Villa Rd; h24hr; g408, mLabrador Park)

Labrador Nature Reserve

TOMATOSKIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

l

Local Life

Kranji Farms

For a refreshingly different take on Singaporean life, consider visiting Singapore's small, thriving cluster of farms. A daily minibus service, the Kranji Express (Kranji MRT Station; adult/child $3/1; h9am-6pm, every 75min), does a loop from the Kranji MRT station, visiting many of the best farms en route. One of the best is Bollywood Veggies (www.bollywoodveggies.com; 100 Neo Tiew Rd; admission $2, Kranji Express passengers free; h9am-6.30pm Wed-Fri, 8am-6.30pm Sat & Sun), where you can ramble through rustic gardens planted with cashew, papaya and starfruit trees, and nosh on beautiful, healthy grub at the bistro.

Understand

The Secret Mural

Dubbed the Grandfather of Singaporean Sculpture, Ng Eng Teng (1934–2001) is well known for his figurative sculptures, which include    The Explorer, a tribute to the new millennium located outside the Singapore Art Museum. Known for his fascination with basic geometric forms and their symbolic value, Ng completed part of his formal training at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts in Little India in the 1950s. Among his many works at the NUS Museum is a Ciment Fondu mural titled Tropical Rhapsody (1972). Commissioned by the Garden Hotel for its hotel lounge, the work slipped into virtual oblivion after hotel renovations in the early 1980s saw a false wall built to cover it. It was only during the dismantling of the artist's larger hotel mural, Asian Symphony (1972) – now hanging in the courtyard of the National University Health System building – that a hotel staffer mentioned 'the smaller mural' in the cafe. And so the false wall was removed, Tropical Rhapsody was rediscovered, and the NUS Museum's Ng Eng Teng gallery was chosen as its fortunate recipient.

Eating

5Tamarind HillTHAI $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

In a colonial bungalow in lush Labrador Park, Tamarind Hill sets an elegant scene for exceptional Thai. The highlight here is the Sunday brunch (noon to 3pm), which offers a buffet of beautiful cold dishes and salads, as well as the ability to order as many dishes off the à la carte menu as you like (the sauteed squid is sublime). Book ahead.

(%6278 6364; www.tamarindrestaurants.com; 30 Labrador Villa Rd; mains $20-59, Sun brunch $60; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm; g408, mLabrador Park)

5PeraMakanPERANAKAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Run by a couple of genial cooking enthusiasts, this paragon of homestyle Baba-Nonya cuisine migrated from its spiritual Joo Chiat home. Thankfully, classics such as sambal squid and rendang (spicy coconut curry) remain as plate-lickingly good as ever. One dish definitely not worth missing is the ayam buah keluak (chicken in a rich spicy sauce served with Indonesian black-nut pulp).

(www.peramakan.com; 10 Bukit Chermin Rd, L3 Keppel Club; mains $10-24; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm; W; mTelok Blangah)

5Eng Lock KooHAWKER CENTRE $

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Handy for breakfast or lunch if you're on your way to either Reflections at Bukit Chandu or Kent Ridge Park for the Southern Ridges walk, this small collection of stalls inside an airy corner-shop premises does tea and coffee, not to mention hawker favourites like chicken rice and nasi goreng.

(114 Pasir Panjang Rd, cnr Pepys Rd; mains from $3; hindividual stalls vary, generally 5am-3pm; mPasir Panjang)

5Faber PeakINTERNATIONAL $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The Mt Faber cable car terminal is home to a trio of eateries, all with bird's-eye views. Top billing goes to patio-graced Japanese yakitori restaurant Moonstone ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.epicurean.com.sg; 109 Mt Faber Rd; dishes $4-20; h4pm-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat). Cross-cultural dishes and patio dining define Faber Bistro ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6377 9688; www.mountfaber.com.sg; 101 Mt Faber Rd; mains $13-15; h3-11pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; mHarbourFront), while family-friendly Spuds & Aprons ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6377 9688; 109 Mt Faber Rd; mains $16-38; h11am-11pm Sun-Wed, to 12.30am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) is another global affair, with a mix of local dishes, sandwiches and mains such as juicy pork belly.

(%6377 9688; www.faberpeaksingapore.com; 109 Mt Faber Rd; mHarbourFront, Mount Faber)

Drinking

6ColbarBAR

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Raffish Colbar is an evocative colonial throwback, a former British officers' mess turned languid drinking spot. It's still 1930-something here: a place where money is kept in a drawer, football team photos hang on the wall and locals linger with beers and well-priced ciders on the spacious verandah.

(%6779 4859; 9A Whitchurch Rd; h11am-midnight Tue-Sun, kitchen closes 8.30pm; g191)

l

Local Life

Tiger Brewery

You've been drinking their beers all holiday, so you might as well see how they're made. Tours of the Tiger Brewery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6860 3005; www.tigerbrewerytour.com.sg; 459 Jln Ahmad Ibrahim; adult/child $18/12; h10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 4pm & 5pm Mon-Fri; mBoon Lay, then bus 182) include a look at the brew house and the packaging hall, plus free beer in the smart Tiger Tavern. Book in advance (online or by phone) and bring photo ID.

Entertainment

6St James Power StationCLUB

MAP GOOGLE MAP

What was once a 1920s coal-fired power station is now a multivenue entertainment hub. Popular with a mostly local crowd, its interconnected bars and clubs include lush bar Peppermint Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Sentosa Gateway; h5pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat), thumping Thai club-live-music hybrid Neverland II ( GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Sentosa Gateway; h9.30pm-6am) and karaoke bar Mono ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.stjamespowerstation.com; 3 Sentosa Gateway; h6pm-5am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mHarbourFront). Minimum age at Mono is 18, while at Neverland II it's 21 for women and 23 for men.

(www.stjamespowerstation.com; 3 Sentosa Gateway; hhours vary, generally 5pm-late; mHarbourFront)

l

Local Life

A Public Splash

Singapore has some seriously impressive public pools, which, at a couple of dollars or less, are among the island’s best bargains. Top of the list is Jurong East Sports & Cultural Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6563 5052; 21 Jurong East St 31; adult/child $2/1; h8am-9.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 6.30am-9.30pm Wed & Sat, 2.30-9.30pm Sun; mChinese Garden), a wow-inducing combo of giant wave pool, lazy river, waterslides, wading pool, jacuzzi and Olympic-sized pool. Expect huge crowds on weekends. The centre is a 600m walk from Chinese Garden MRT. Before heading in, double check opening times; visit www.myactivesg.com for more information.

Shopping

7VivoCityMALL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

More than just Singapore's largest shopping mall, VivoCity offers that rare commodity: open space. There's an outdoor kids' playground on level 2 and a rooftop 'skypark' where little ones can splash about in free-to-use paddling pools. The retail mix is predominately midrange, and there's a large Golden Village cineplex.

(www.vivocity.com.sg; 1 HarbourFront Walk; h10am-10pm; mHarbourFront)

x

The Best of

Singapore

Colonial Singapore

New-Millennium Singapore

Tours

Festivals

Shopping

Street Food

Dining

For Kids

Drinking

Entertainment

Views & Vistas

For Free

Museums

Escapes

2

Best Walks

Colonial Singapore

2The Walk

In a city firmly fixed on the future, the Colonial District offers a rare, precious glimpse of a romanticised era and its architectural legacies. This is the Singapore of far-flung missionaries and churches, Palladian-inspired buildings, high-society cricket clubs and the legendary Raffles Hotel. This walk takes in some of the city's most beautiful heritage buildings, swaths of soothing greenery, spectacular skyline views and even a spot of contemporary Asian art. Time it to coincide with a postwalk lunch or dinner by the Singapore River.

Start Singapore Art Museum; Bras Basah

Finish MICA; Clarke Quay

Length 2km; two hours with stops

5Take a Break

End your saunter with trademark chilli crab at Jumbo Seafood ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6532 3435; www.jumboseafood.com.sg; 01-01/02 Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Rd; dishes from $12, chilli crab around $55 per kg; hnoon-2.15pm & 6-11.15pm; mClarke Quay).

1 Singapore Art Museum

The Singapore Art Museum occupies a former Catholic boys school. Original features include the shuttered windows, ceramic floor tiles and inner quadrangle. The central dome and sweeping arcade portico were early-20th-century additions.

2 Raffles Hotel

Head southeast along Bras Basah Rd, passing the Renaissance-inspired Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, and the English Gothic CHIJMES, a convent-turned-restaurant complex. Diagonally opposite CHIJMES is the legendary Raffles Hotel.

3 St Andrew's

You'll find wedding-cake St Andrew's Cathedral further south on North Bridge Rd. Completed in 1838, it was torn down after being struck by lightning (twice!), and rebuilt by Indian convicts in 1862. It's one of Singapore's few surviving examples of English Gothic architecture.

4 City Hall

Built in 1928, City Hall is where Lord Louis Mountbatten announced Japanese surrender in 1945 and Lee Kuan Yew declared Singapore's independence in 1965. City Hall and the Old Supreme Court, built in 1939, house the National Gallery Singapore.

5 Padang

Opposite City Hall is the open field of the Padang, home to the Singapore Cricket Club and Singapore Recreation Club. It was here that the invading Japanese herded the European community together before marching them off to Changi Prison.

6 Victoria Theatre

Below where St Andrew's Rd curves to the left stand a group of colonial-era buildings, including the Victoria Theatre & Concert Hall. Completed in 1862, it was originally the Town Hall. It was also one of Singapore's first Victorian Revivalist buildings.

7 MICA

Hang a right to hit the Singapore River. The multicoloured building on the corner of Hill St is the old Hill St Police Station. Dubbed a 'skyscraper' when built in 1934, it's now known as MICA and home to a string of contemporary art galleries.

Singapore Art Museum

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

2

Best Walks

New-Millennium Singapore

2The Walk

Singapore is not marching towards the future – it is inventing it. Drunk on ambition, the city has been diligently revamping itself with a bold new wave of quirky, edgy and sometimes controversial developments. This walk will see you exploring the very heart of the 'new Singapore', Marina Bay, a daring precinct where cultural buildings echo fruits and flowers, where bridges recall DNA strings, and where botanic gardens look straight off the set of The Day of the Triffids. Welcome to tomorrow.

Start Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay; Esplanade

Finish Gardens by the Bay; Bayfront

Length 2km; three hours with stops

5Take a Break

End your time travel with sustainable fine dining at Pollen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6604 9988; www.pollen.com.sg; Flower Dome, Gardens by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr; mains $58-68; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun, afternoon tea 3-5pm; v; mBayfront) or street food classics at breezy hawker centre Satay by the Bay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gardensbythebay.com.sg; 18 Marina Gardens Dr, Gardens by the Bay; dishes from $4; hfood stalls 8am-10pm, drinks stall 24hr; mMarina Bay, then bus 400).

1 Esplanade – Theatres by the Bay

Singapore's head-turning Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay features a theatre and concert hall under two superstructures of double-glazed laminated glass and aluminium sunshades. Designed by Singapore's DP Architects and London's Michael Wilford & Partners, its price-tag was a cool $600 million.

2 Helix Bridge

Walk east along Marina Promenade to the 280m-long Helix Bridge. It's the world's first double-helix bridge, designed by Australia's Cox Architecture and Singapore's Architects 61. Viewing platforms offer an impressive vantage point for photos across to Collyer Quay, Merlion and Fullerton buildings.

3 ArtScience Museum

The white, lotuslike building on the other side of the bridge is the ArtScience Museum. Opened in 2011, the structure is the work of Israeli-born architect Moshe Safdie. The building consists of 10 finger-like structures capped by skylights, lighting the galleries within. Beside the museum is the world's first floating Louis Vuitton store.

4 Marina Bay Sands

Both the ArtScience Museum and the Louis Vuitton store form part of the ambitious Marina Bay Sands integrated resort, home to the lavish Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands and a gravity-defying cantilevered skydeck. Known as the 'SkyPark', the deck is large enough to park four-and-a-half A380s. Catch the lift to Ku Dé Ta for a breathtaking vista.

5 Gardens by the Bay

From Marina Bay Sands, a pedestrian overpass leads you to Gardens by the Bay, a 21st-century park housing the world's largest conservatories, an aerial walkway and state-of-the-art Supertrees whose trunks contain solar hot water and photovoltaic collectors, rainwater harvesting devices and venting ducts.

Helix Bridge

TOMML/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Tours

Best Neighbourhood Tours

Original Singapore Walks (%6325 1631; www.singaporewalks.com; adult $35-55, child $15-30) Engaging walking tours, with themes including Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam and the Quays. No booking required, simply check the website for meeting places and times.

Real Singapore Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6247 7340; www.betelbox.com/singapore-tours.htm; 200 Joo Chiat Rd; tours $80-100) Choose from nature walks, coastline cycling or food odysseys (usually 6pm Thursday) through to the historic Joo Chiat neighbourhood.

Chinatown Trishaw Night Tour (www.viator.com; adult/child $72/47) Atmospheric, four-hour tour of Chinatown including dinner, a trishaw ride and bumboat (motorised sampan) cruise along the Singapore River.

Trishaw Uncle ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trishawuncle.com.sg; Queen St; 30min tour adult/child from $39/29, 45min tour $49/39) Hop on a trishaw for a 45-minute exploration of Bugis and Little India. You’ll find the trishaw terminal on Queen St, between the Fu Lu Shou Complex and Albert Centre Market and Food Centre.

Best Water Tours

Singapore River Cruise ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6336 6111; www.rivercruise.com.sg; adult/child $22/12; h9am-11pm; mClarke Quay) Jump on a traditional bumboat and sail up and down the Singapore River on these 40- and 60-minute tours through the central city.

Duck Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6338 6877; www.ducktours.com.sg; 01-330, Suntec City Mall, Nicoll Hwy; adult/child $33/23; h10am-6pm; mEsplanade) Head out on a remodelled WWII amphibious Vietnamese war craft for a surprisingly informative, engaging one-hour tour that traverses land and water. The route focuses on Marina Bay and the Colonial District.

Best Tours with a Twist

Jeffery Tan (%9784 6848; http://jefflimo.tripod.com/jefflimo.htm) 'Singapore's Singing Cabbie' can croon in nine languages and will happily serenade you while showing you the sights of your choice. Tan also offers a food tour and video karaoke in the limo.

Bukit Brown Tour (www.bukitbrown.com) Fascinating free walking tours through one of Singapore's most historic, wild and beautiful cemeteries, currently under threat from development. Check the website for upcoming tour dates and times.

SENG CHYE TEO/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Festivals

Hungry Chinese ghosts, fire-walking Hindu faithful, international indie-rock gigs: Singapore's social calendar is intensely eclectic, reflecting both its multicultural make-up and an insatiable determination to shake off its staid, uptight image. It's working, with annual staples including the world's first F1 night race and Australian indie-music Laneway Festival.

Best Hindu Festivals

Thaipusam Kavadis (heavy metal frames) pierce parading devotees; January.

Deepavali Little India glows for the 'Festival of Lights'; October.

Thimithi Hindus walk over white-hot coals at Sri Mariamman Temple; November.

Best for Musos

Laneway Festival (http://singapore.lanewayfestival.com.au) Uberhip indie-music fest; January.

Singapore International Jazz Festival (www.sing-jazz.com) Four-day showcase of established and emerging jazz talent; January.

Mosaic Music Festival (www.mosaicmusicfestival.com) World music, jazz and indie acts; March.

Singapore International Festival of Arts (www.sifa.sg) Music, dance, drama and art; August.

Best Chinese Festivals

Chinese New Year Dragon dances, fireworks, food and spectacular street decorations; February.

Hungry Ghost Festival Fires, food and Chinese opera honour roaming spirits; August.

Best for Foodies

Singapore Food Festival (www.yoursingapore.com) Ten days of tastings, dinners and food-themed tours; July.

Mooncake Festival Lanterns light up Chinatown as revellers feast on mooncakes; August/September.

Best Only-in-Singapore Festivals

Chingay (www.chingay.org.sg) Singapore's biggest street party, held on the 22nd day after Chinese New Year; February.

Singapore National Day (www.ndp.org.sg) Extravagant processions and fireworks. Snap tickets up well in advance; 9 August.

Formula One Night Race (www.f1singapore.com) After-dark F1 racing on a spectacular Marina Bay street circuit; September.

ANDREW JK TAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Shopping

Bangkok and Hong Kong might upstage it on the bargain front, but when it comes to choice, few cities match Singapore. Whether you're after Gucci mules, fashion-forward local threads or a 16th-century temple artefact, you'll have little trouble bagging it in Singapore's decadent malls, progressive boutiques and cluttered heirloom businesses.

Shopping Roadmap

While mall-heavy, fashion-centric Orchard Rd is Singapore's retail queen, it's only one of several retail hubs. For computers and electronics, hit specialist electronics malls like Funan DigitaLife and Sim Lim Square. Good places for antiques include Tanglin Shopping Centre, Dempsey Hill and Chinatown. For fabrics and textiles, scour Little India and Kampong Glam. Kampong Glam is also famous for its perfume traders and boutique-lined Haji Lane. For in-the-know independent labels, design objects and books, explore Tiong Bahru.

Bagging a Bargain

While Singapore is no longer the electronics nirvana it used to be, it can offer a few savings for those who do their homework. Know the price of things before you start shopping around and always ask vendors what they can do to ‘sweeten the deal’; they should at least be able to throw in a camera case or some memory cards. Sim Lim Square is well known for its range and negotiable prices, but also for taking the uninitiated for a ride: a quick Google search will bring up blacklisted businesses. Rival Funan DigitaLife Mall has similar prices, but the businesses are generally considered more trustworthy. A vendor should always provide the warranty in store.

yTop Tip

A To ensure a good deal on electronics, know the prices back home, and always compare prices at a number of competing businesses.

TIM BEWER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Souvenirs

Raffles Hotel Arcade Pick up anything from vintage posters to city tomes at the all-budgets Raffles Hotel Gift Shop.

Tyrwhitt General Company Cool, unique objects designed and made in Singapore.

Little Shophouse Hand-beaded shoes, ceramics and other Peranakan gifts.

Sifr Aromatics Bespoke fragrances and vintage perfume bottles.

Best Luxury Malls

ION Orchard High-end labels in Singapore’s most striking mall.

Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Bayside luxury and the world’s first floating Louis Vuitton store.

Paragon Coveted brands and a dedicated children’s floor.

Best Midrange Malls

313@Somerset Midrange staples and an upbeat vibe.

ION Orchard Everything from H&M to Uniqlo and Zara.

VivoCity High street labels galore at Singapore's biggest mall.

Best Tech

Funan DigitaLife Mall Six floors of electronics, cameras and computers.

Sim Lim Square Bargain-price electronics for seasoned hagglers.

Best Local & Independent Fashion

Front Row Cognoscenti labels and accessories from Asia and beyond.

Reckless Shop Imaginative creations by the talented Afton Chan.

Nana & Bird Feminine fashion from local and emerging foreign designers.

Willow and Huxley A petite boutique with a big reputation for clued-in local and foreign threads.

Best Antiques

Antiques of the Orient A treasure trove of old Asian books, prints and maps.

Shang Antique Rummage for ancient Asian artefacts in tranquil Dempsey Hill.

ION Orchard Mall

MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Street Food

It's one of Singapore's great pleasures: ambling into a lively hawker centre in your flip-flops, navigating the steam, smoke and chatter of the stalls, then kicking back with a cold beer and a dirt-cheap feast of mouth-watering regional dishes. And the thrifty feasting doesn't end there, with enough old-school kopitiams (coffeeshops) and foodie-approved food courts to keep both tastebuds and wallets purring.

Stalls, Malls & Queues

When it comes to local grub, it's hard to beat Singapore's hawker centres. These large complexes of Chinese, Malay, Indonesian and Indian food stalls are the happiest consequence of the city's cultural stew. They're also great for a cheap feed, with most dishes costing between $3 and $6. If you insist on air-con, head to Singapore's equally famous mall food courts. Unlike their Western counterparts, they peddle fresh, authentic grub for some of the world's pickiest tastebuds. Wherever you go, join the longest queue. While stalls go in and out of favour very quickly, in-the-know Singaporeans are always happy to line up for 30 minutes to savour the very best.

Hawker Centres Decoded

You're at a hawker centre. Now what? Locals always set up base camp before going in search of food. Plonk down a member of your group at a table, or lay a packet of tissues on a seat. If there are no free tables, it’s normal to share with strangers. Table reserved, hit the food stalls. If they bear a 'self-service' sign, you'll have to wait and carry the food back to your table. Other stalls will ask for your table number and deliver the order to you.

Hawker food

BRITTA KASHOLM-TENGVE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Hawker Grub

Maxwell Road Hawker Centre Popular, accessible and famed for its Hainanese chicken rice.

Chinatown Complex Sprawling labyrinth with legendary dry bee hoon (vermicelli noodles).

Gluttons Bay Lipsmacking hawker fare and a festive vibe on Marina Bay.

Satay by the Bay Fragrant satay and other sizzling classics at sci-fi Gardens by the Bay.

Malaysian Food Street Legendary Malaysian hawker stalls right beside Universal Studios.

Best Food Courts

Takashimaya Food Village Basement wonderland of Japanese, Korean and other Asian delicacies.

Food Republic Hawker-style classics and restaurant-style nooks atop an Orchard Rd mall.

Rasapura Masters Street food from Asia and beyond inside ostentatious Marina Bay Sands.

Best Snacks

Tong Heng Veteran pastry shop with sweet and savoury treats from southern China.

Moghul Sweet Shop Take-away Indian sweets in every colour of the rainbow.

Kim Choo Kueh Chang Bite-sized Peranakan treats in an old-school Katong bakery.

Best Kopitiams

Ya Kun Kaya Toast Historic hang-out serving Singapore's best runny eggs and kaya (coconut jam) toast.

Killiney Kopitiam Another top spot for old-school Singaporean breakfasts, plus solid curries, laksa and nasi lemak.

Best Malay & Indonesian

Warong Nasi Pariaman Veteran nasi padang (Malay rice and the accompanying meat and vegetable dishes) stall with a cultish following.

Satay Street Sizzling satay, cold beer and alfresco tables on a blocked-off CBD street.

Zam Zam Fresh, epic murtabak in the shadow of the golden-domed Sultan Mosque.

Best Indian

Gandhi Restaurant Flavour-packed thali, dosa and uttapam bites.

Tekka Centre Wriggling produce, saris and city-famous murtabak (stuffed savoury pancakes).

JACK HOLLINGSWORTH/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Dining

Beyond the cheap, wham-bam thrills of hawker centres and food courts is a burgeoning scene of solid restaurants in both the midrange and top-end categories. Options are endless: bolt-hole sushi bars in Orchard Rd malls, Southeast Asian fusion and cocktails in Chinatown, even a French haute-cuisine hotspot 70 floors above the city.

An Evolving Scene

From London chef Jason Atherton’s Pollen to New Yorker Mario Batali's Pizzeria Mozza, Singapore has an ever-expanding legion of top-notch, celebrity-chef nosheries. Iggy’s remains one of Asia’s most coveted destination restaurants, with French chef Julien Royer’s Jaan providing lofty competition. Most exciting is Singapore’s new breed of lively, midrange eateries, which alongside trailblazers like Kilo, deliver sharp, produce-driven menus in an altogether more relaxed setting. Among the best are Southeast Asian Ding Dong and Mexican Lucha Loco, two of a string of newcomers that have transformed Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar into dining hotspots.

Word on the Street

In Singapore, everyone is a food critic and getting consensus between locals on the best places to chomp is tougher than getting agreement on climate change at the UN. For high-end restaurant news and reviews, visit sg.dining.asiatatler.com. More reviews and headlines await at www.burpple.com/sg. Some local food blogs are also insightful, among them www.ieatishootipost.sg, www.bibikgourmand.blogspot.com and www.ladyironchef.com.

yTop Tip

A Tipping is unnecessary in Singapore, as most restaurants impose a 10% service charge – and nobody ever tips in hawker centres. That said, many do leave a discretionary tip for superlative service at higher-end restaurants.

MING THEIN/MINGTHEIN.COM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best for Romancing

Cliff Secluded fine dining in an enchanting Sentosa setting.

Jaan Cutting-edge French, high above the Colonial District.

Iggy's Show-stopping East-meets-West reinventions on Orchard Rd.

Halia Ginger-spiked menus in a tropical botanical wonderland.

Best Crab

Momma Kong's Good deals, huge buns and Singapore’s freshest Sri Lankan crabs.

No Signboard Seafood Superlative white pepper crab in red-light Geylang.

Jumbo Seafood Classic chilli crab by the Singapore River.

Best Western & Fusion

Kilo Strictly seasonal Italo-Japanese at an off-the-radar locale.

Lucha Loco Sucker-punch Mexican and a party vibe off Chinatown.

Cicheti Market-fresh produce and wood-fired pizza in Kampong Glam.

Buona Terra Authentic, high-end regional Italian off Orchard Rd.

Ding Dong Vibrant Southeast Asian twists and matching cocktails.

Best Chinese & Peranakan

Din Tai Fung Smart, respected chain famed for superlative xiao long bao (soup dumplings).

Tim Ho Wan Hong Kong’s most famous dumpling peddler, on Orchard Rd.

PeraMakan Spicy Peranakan flavours in a resortlike locale.

Chopsuey Revamped retro Chinese in a colonial-chic setting.

Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head Steamboat Corner Singapore's top Teochew-style fish-head steamboat.

Blue Ginger A still-trendy restaurant with complex Nonya dishes.

Best Indonesian & Indian

Lagnaa Barefoot Dining Choose-your-own-spice-level adventures.

Tambuah Mas Authentic, made-from-scratch Indonesian on Orchard Rd.

Gandhi Restaurant Flavour-packed thali, dosa and uttapam bites in a lo-fi setting.

Best Brunch

Tamarind Hill Extraordinary Sunday Thai in a jungle-fringed setting.

Symmetry Decadent dishes and winning coffee in boho Kampong Glam.

Kith Cafe Lazy, trendy brunching on the Sentosa waterfront.

Wild Honey Trendy shoppers tucking into all-day breakfasts from around the globe.

PS Cafe Beautiful produce, lunching ladies and a tropical-chic vibe in Dempsey Hill.

Best for Old-School Singapore

Colbar Hainanese-style western classics in a former officers’ mess in western Singapore.

Killiney Kopitiam Old-school kaya toast and kopi a quick walk from Orchard Rd.

Yet Con Aunties, retro Laminex and Singapore's best Hainanese Chicken Rice.

x

Best

For Kids

Safe, clean, respectable Singapore would make an admirable babysitter. From interactive museum galleries and tactile animal sanctuaries to an island packed with blockbuster theme-park thrills, young ones are rarely an afterthought, with enough activities and exhibitions to thrill kids of all ages and inclinations. Children are welcome almost anywhere…and fawned over enthusiastically. If you're after a little quality family time, Singapore has you covered.

Sentosa: Pleasure Island

While kid-friendly attractions are spread out across Singapore, you'll find the greatest concentration on the island of Sentosa. Here you'll find the LA-style Universal Studios theme park, not to mention a long list of supporting attractions, from splash-happy Adventure Cove Waterpark to zip-lining and Segway tours. You'll need at least a full day to experience everything Sentosa has to offer, not to mention a well-stocked wallet, as most activities, rides and shows cost extra.

Discounts

Kids receive up to 50% discount at most tourist venues. Those under six enjoy free entry to many of Singapore's top museums, including the National Museum of Singapore, Asian Civilisations Museum and Peranakan Museum. Kids under 0.9m tall can ride the MRT for free. Full-time students with photo ID cards also enjoy discounts at many attractions.

yTop Tip

A When visiting Sentosa, be sure to pick up a Sentosa Island map leaflet, available at booths as you enter the island.

SHIRLYN LOO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Museums

National Museum of Singapore Evocative reconstructions, multimedia displays and child-friendly signage take the boring out of history for kids aged six and up.

Peranakan Museum Child-specific activities, audio stories and colourful artefacts keep little ones engaged at this intriguing museum.

Asian Civilisations Museum Dress up, play instruments or 'prepare a traditional meal' at the museum's four hands-on Explor-Asian zones.

MINT Museum of Toys A jaw-dropping, technicolor collection of over 50,000 rare, collectable toys from around the globe.

Singapore Art Museum Top-notch art complete with periodic kids' activities.

Best Thrills & Spills

Universal Studios Hollywood-inspired rides, roller coasters and shows for the young and young-at-heart.

Adventure Cove Waterpark Waterslides, wave pool and Southeast Asia's first hydro-magnetic coaster.

iFly Plummet a virtual 9000ft without a plane in sight at this indoor skydiving centre.

Wave House Surf serious waves without ever leaving the pool on Sentosa.

Singapore Flyer Reach the skies onboard Asia's tallest observation wheel.

Songs of the Sea Lights, lasers and a stirring score define this multimillion-dollar spectacular.

Pinnacle@Duxton Affordable, family-friendly skypark with breathtaking city views and green oases.

Best for Green Adventures

Gardens by the Bay Space-age bio-domes, crazy Supertrees and a children’s garden with wet-play zones and tree houses.

Southern Ridges Walk above the jungle and look out for monkeys.

Pulau Ubin Hop on a bike and cycle through forest and past colourful shacks on this stuck-in-time island.

Best Eateries

Rasapura Masters A plethora of food stalls beside an indoor skating rink.

Casa Verde Family-friendly restaurant in the lush, tropical wonderland of the Botanic Gardens.

Maxwell Road Hawker Centre Cheap, no-fuss street food with a lively, casual vibe.

Daily Scoop Over 40 dreamy flavours of hand-churned ice cream.

Best Animal Watching

Singapore Zoo Breakfast with orang-utans at one of the world's role-model zoological gardens.

Night Safari Spend the evening with leopards, lions and Himalayan blue sheep at this atmospheric wildlife oasis.

Butterfly Park & Insect Kingdom Coo and wince over beautiful, endangered and dangerous critters.

x

Best

Drinking

From pea-infused Jolly Green Giants at Tippling Club to Singaporean microbrews at The Good Beer Stall and seasonal espresso at Chye Seng Huat Hardware, Singapore is discovering the finer points of drinking. Whatever your poison, you're bound to score: locavore cocktails in a Boat Quay speakeasy, craft beers in a sky-high microbrewery or beachside mojitos on Sentosa.

Cut-Price Drinks

Singapore is an expensive city to drink in. A beer at most city bars will set you back between $10 and $18, with cocktails commonly ringing in between $20 and $30. That said, many bars offer decent happy-hour deals, typically stretching from around 5pm to 8pm or 9pm, and offering two drinks for the price of one or cheaper ‘housepours’. On Wednesdays, Ladies’ Night promotions offer cheaper (sometimes free) drinks to women. And if you don’t mind plastic tables and fluorescent lights, you can always hang out with the locals at hawker centres and coffeeshops, swilling $6 bottles of Tiger.

Coffee Evolution

While old-school kopitiams (coffeeshops) have been serving kopi (local coffee) for generations, Singapore’s speciality coffee scene is a more recent phenomenon. Inspired by Australia’s artisanal coffee culture, contemporary cafes like Plain and Artisan are brewing ethically sourced, seasonal beans, using either espresso machines or ‘Third Wave’ brewing techniques like Japanese syphons and AeroPress. Also on the increase are cafes sourcing and roasting their own beans, the best of which include Chye Seng Huat Hardware.

WILLIAM CHO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best for Cocktails

Tippling Club Boundary-pushing libations in booming Tanjong Pagar.

Bitters & Love Custommade libations in a backroom bar minutes from Boat Quay.

28 HongKong St Chronological cocktails in an unmarked lounge off Boat Quay.

Jekyll & Hyde Surprising ingredients and clever twists in up-and-coming Tras St.

Best for Wine

Ô Batignolles French flair and rotating boutique drops on see-and-be-seen Club St.

Best for Beers

Level 33 Slurp brewed-on-site beers 33 floors above the city.

The Good Beer Company A rotating cast of craft brews in a Chinatown hawker centre.

BluJaz Café Swill suds to the sound of live sax and strings.

RedDot Brewhouse Local microbrews in a lush Dempsey setting.

Best Heritage Settings

Raffles Hotel Sip a Sling where Somerset Maughan once slumbered.

Colbar Knock back beers at a nostalgic colonial mess in the city's west.

Black Swan Swill martinis in a deco-licious CBD bar-cum-lounge.

Emerald Hill Rd Post-shopping drinks on a heritage street off Orchard Rd.

Best for a View

New Asia Urbane cocktail sessions, 71 floors above the traffic.

Orgo Cinematic skyline view and a rooftop garden at Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay.

Breeze Gaze out over red Chinatown rooftops and CBD towers.

1-Altitude Flirt with vertigo at the world's highest alfresco bar.

Lantern Stylish rooftop bar with a dazzling centrepiece pool.

Best for Coffee

Chye Seng Huat Hardware Superlative espresso, filter coffee and on-site roasting.

Nylon Coffee Roasters Outstanding cafe-roaster hidden in a HDB complex.

Common Man Coffee An Australian-style cafe and roaster off Robertson Quay.

Artistry Kicking coffee meets art and culture in eclectic Kampong Glam.

Maison Ikkoku Third Wave brews and eclectic interiors in Kampong Glam.

Rooftop bar, 1-Altitude

ETERNITY IN AN INSTANT/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Entertainment

Singapore's nightlife calender is generally booked solid. There’s live music, theatre and adrenalin-pumping activities year-round, while at certain times of the year the Red Dot explodes into a flurry of car racing, cultural festivals and hot-ticket music events. Then, when it all gets too much, Singapore’s spas are waiting in the wings.

Live Music

Music buffs will find a small, kicking local scene, along with world-class music festivals like January's indie showcase Laneway Festival, February's Singapore International Jazz Festival, and March's world-music fest Mosaic. Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay hosts free concerts, while the Chinese Theatre Circle performs traditional Chinese opera. A growing number of international pop/rock acts tour Singapore.

Club Culture

Although its future was uncertain at the time this guide was researched, Zouk remains the city’s best-known club, with newer hotspots including Japanese-inspired club-lounge Kyō. Dance clubs proliferate in the Clarke Quay area, among them Attica. Check out Super 0 (www.super0.sg), which runs pop-up dance parties. For updated listings, hit www.timeoutsingapore.com/clubs or e-clubbing.com.

The Singapore Stage

Expect quality local and overseas drama at August's Singapore International Festival of Arts and regular dance and drama at Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay. Independent theatre groups like Singapore Repertory Theatre and Theatreworks deliver new works and international adaptations, while Marina Bay Sands hosts Broadway musicals.

yTop Tip

A Check what's on and buy tickets online at www.sistic.com.sg. Expect to pay from around $20 to $70 for a ticket to a local theatre production, $90 to $200 for international music acts, and $65 to $200 for big-budget musicals. Gigs by local music acts at local nightspots are often free.

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best for Live Music

BluJaz Café Consistently good jazz and blues in an eclectic Kampong Glam pub.

Timbrè @ The Substation Local bands and singer-songwriters in the Colonial District.

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay Polished performances spanning classical to rock, from Singapore and beyond.

Crazy Elephant A veteran of the scene, with solid rock and blues from local and visiting talent.

Hood Up-and-coming venue with regular performances from in-demand local band Timmy.

Prince of Wales Lively Aussie pub with garage-style bands strumming out mostly acoustic tunes.

Best Clubs

Zouk World-class DJs and weekly nights spanning retro to electronica.

Kyō A Japanese-inspired club in a one-time bank in the CBD.

Attica Multiple venues and music styles, and a flirty crowd in party hub Clarke Quay.

Altimate High-tech clubbing atop a downtown skyscraper.

Best for Drama Queens

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay World-class productions, from off-Broadway plays to children's theatre.

Singapore Repertory Theatre A world-class repertoire that includes seasonal Shakespeare at Fort Canning Park.

Wild Rice Reinterpreted classics, brand new works and striking sets define one of Singapore's top independent companies.

Best for Chinese Opera

Chinese Theatre Circle Chinese opera meets dinner and a discussion of the art form.

Bian's Cafe Beijing Opera tunes and a bite-sized Chinese opera museum.

Best LGBT Venues

Tantric Alfresco seating, pop diva chart hits and a flirtatious, mainly male crowd.

Taboo Singapore's main queer dance club, complete with gym-buff show-offs and crowded late-week dance floor.

x

Best

Views & Vistas

Admit it: posting hot travel shots online to torture friends is fun. And while it might surprise you, Singapore makes the perfect partner in crime. From dramatic skyline panoramas to close-up shots of brightly coloured shutters, market produce and lurid tropical flora, the city is ridiculously photogenic. So take aim, shoot and expect no shortage of gratifying Likes.

Best Skyline Vistas

New Asia Spectacular Singapore River panorama; whitewashed colonial buildings northside, CBD towers southside.

1-Altitude The world’s tallest alfresco bar in the heart of the CBD.

Pinnacle@Duxton A panoramic sweep of shophouses, skyscrapers and cargo from atop the world's tallest public housing complex.

Orgo Breathtaking skyscraper views from the rooftop bar at Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay.

Best for Architecture Buffs

Gardens by the Bay High-tech trees, bio-domes and striking sculptures.

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay Bold and controversial, Singapore's 'giant durian' delivers countless dramatic angles.

Chinatown Ornate heritage shophouses and old, smokey temples.

Marina Bay Sands A three-tower sci-fi fantasy with a cantilevered skydeck.

Emerald Hill Rd An evocative mix of lantern-lit shophouses and elegant, early-20th-century residences.

Best Is-This-Really-Singapore? Backdrops

Little India Technicolor facades, shrines and garland stalls, mini mountains of spice and dazzling saris.

Kampong Glam An Arabian Nights fantasy of late-night shisha cafes, intricate Persian rugs and a storybook, golden-domed mosque.

Pulau Ubin Tin-roof shacks, free-roaming farm animals and rambling jungle wilderness channel a Singapore long since lost.

Geylang Rd, Geylang An after-dark otherworld of neon-lit karaoke bars, kopitiams and seedy side streets of temples and hookers.

STEPHEN STUDD/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

For Free

Believe it or not, it is possible to savour some of Singapore's top offerings without reaching for your wallet. Whether you're into ancient artefacts, contemporary art, million-dollar lightshows or live-music gigs, you're bound to find it, free of charge. And then there's the simple pleasure of hitting the city's older, colour-saturated neighbourhoods, where daily life is the best show in town.

Best Always-Free Museums

Baba House One of Singapore's best-preserved Peranakan dwellings.

NUS Museum Three well-curated galleries showcasing ancient and modern Asian art and artefacts.

Changi Museum & Chapel A moving tribute to Singapore's darkest wartime chapter.

Best Sometimes-Free Museums

National Museum of Singapore Enjoy free entry to the museum's Living History galleries daily from 6pm to 8pm.

Singapore Art Museum One of Singapore's art museums, free between 6pm and 9pm on Friday.

Best Free Art Galleries

Gillman Barracks Top-tier private international galleries from cities like New York and Berlin at a former British military barracks.

MICA Building Riverside gallery complex showcasing contemporary Asian talent.

Chan Hampe Galleries One of several galleries in the Raffles Hotel Arcade exhibiting respected local and regional artists.

Utterly Art A pocket-sized Chinatown space spotlighting local and regional talent.

Best Free Entertainment

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay Singapore's striking arts hub delivers regular free concerts and events.

Marina Bay Sands Home to Wonder Full, a twice-nightly light, laser, and water spectacular choreographed to a stirring score.

Gardens by the Bay Singapore's latest oasis comes with an after-dark sound and light show.

Little India Soak up the chaos and scents of Singapore's most colourful, hyperactive neighbourhood.

Chinatown A visceral jungle of heady temples, heritage shop-houses and wriggling market produce.

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Museums

Singapore is well endowed with museums, from the tiny and obscure to the ambitious and interactive. You'll find the biggest and the best in the Colonial District, where collections dive into the history, culture and art of Singapore and the continent it belongs to. Beyond them is a kooky booty of unexpected treasures, from reconstructed Chinatown slums to haunting wartime memorials.

Museum Pass Savings

If you're visiting three or more museums during your stay, you can save money by purchasing the 3-Day Museum Pass. Costing $20 (adult) or $50 (for a family of up to five people), the pass offers unlimited admission to five National Heritage Board museums, including must-sees like the National Museum of Singapore, Asian Civilisations Museum and Peranakan Museum. The pass also covers the Singapore Art Museum. Purchase passes at any participating museum; see www.nhb.gov.sg for a complete list. Museums in Singapore usually offer significant discounts to full-time students and seniors; bring photo ID.

Lest They Forget

Singapore's WWII experience was a watershed period in its history. You'll see it covered in depth in many museums, including the National Museum of Singapore. It's also commemorated at several wartime sites, including a British fort on Sentosa, the battleground of Bukit Chandu (Opium Hill) and a former bunker in Fort Canning Park. Not surprisingly, the trauma of occupation and Singapore's tetchy postwar relations with its larger neighbours have fuelled its obsession with security today.

FELIX HUG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Peranakan Pickings

Peranakan Museum Explore the Peranakan world of marriage, storytelling, fashion, feasting and mourning in evocative, multimedia galleries.

Baba House Step into the private world of a wealthy Peranakan family, c 1928, at one of Singapore's most beautiful historic homes.

Katong Antique House A cluttered collection of historical objects and stories from one of Singapore's leading Peranakan historians.

Best for Art & Handicrafts

Asian Civilisations Museum A Pan-Asian treasure trove of precious decorative arts, religious artefacts, art and textiles.

National Gallery Singapore Singapore’s newest cultural asset explores both 19th-century and modern regional art.

NUS Museum Permanent and temporary exhibitions of Asian ceramics and art.

Singapore Art Museum The world's largest collection of contemporary Southeast Asian art.

Gillman Barracks A rambling artillery of international galleries exhibiting revered names in modern and contemporary art.

Best for Old Singapore

National Museum of Singapore Explore centuries of Singaporean highs and lows, from exiled Sumatran princes to modern independence.

Chinatown Heritage Centre Relive the gritty, chaotic and overcrowded Chinatown of yesteryear.

Images of Singapore An interactive panorama spanning six centuries of local history.

Best for War History

Changi Museum & Chapel Sobering reflections on courage and cruelty during the WWII Japanese occupation.

Fort Siloso Slip into subterranean tunnels at this ill-fated defence fort.

Reflections at Bukit Chandu Get the lowdown on the Japanese invasion at this bite-sized museum atop Opium Hill.

Battle Box Haunting underground complex documenting the fall of Singapore.

Asian Civilisations Museum

ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

x

Best

Escapes

Energy meridians feeling blocked? When you have a population density of 7257 people per sq km, it's not surprising. Thankfully, Singapore has myriad ways to revive and refocus weary souls (and soles), from soothing forest canopy walks and island cycling tracks to decadent spa retreats and bargain-priced reflexology joints. Whatever your budget, slow, deep breaths are just around the corner.

City of Parks

Singapore's parks are often masterpieces of design and landscaping, from the renowned Botanic Gardens to the forests of the Southern Ridges. A huge network of park connectors enables cyclists and runners to basically circumnavigate the island without ever encountering a road. For network routes and downloadable maps, see www.nparks.com.sg.

The Rub-Down

Tight muscles have no shortage of salvation, with midrange to luxe spas in most malls and five-star hotels, and a plethora of cheaper no-frills joints in less-fashionable malls like People's Park Plaza. The latter is packed with stalls offering reflexology, shiatsu and even pools of fish that happily nibble away your dead skin cells. Rates vary from around $15 for a foot massage to over $200 for a full-day package.

Best Green Getaways

Southern Ridges Thick forest and skyline views dot this string of parks and reserves.

Singapore Botanic Gardens Catch the MRT to Singapore's manicured paradise.

Pulau Ubin Cycle your worries away on this quaint, once-upon-a-time island.

Night Safari For a different kind of nightlife.

Fort Canning Park A lush, historically rich oasis in the very heart of the city.

Best for Pampering

Remède Spa Luxe treatments at the St Regis Hotel, just off Orchard Rd.

Tomi Foot Reflexology Affordable, no-frills rubdowns in the heart of Orchard Rd

People's Park Complex The mall might be busy, but the 3rd floor will leave you purring with its bargain reflexology outlets.

SATYAKI CHAKRABORTI/LONELY PLANET ©

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A Singapore is tropical and humid year-round. School holidays fall in June and July, the hottest time, so try to avoid travelling in these months if possible.

Book Your Stay

Top Tip Midrange and top-end hotel rates are based on supply and demand, with daily fluctuations. During the Formula One night race, for example, room prices triple.

A Singapore is compact, with excellent public transport; your choice of location is not crucial, but it's worth picking carefully. Orchard Rd, best known for large midrange and top-end hotels, is a good choice for shopaholics. Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar are well known for smaller boutique hotels surrounded by atmospheric lanes, restaurants and nightlife. Cheap beds and a backpacker vibe define Little India, while Sentosa delivers resort-style hotels with easy access to theme parks and beaches.

A Book way in advance during peak pe riods like the Formula One Grand Prix. Even average hostels tend to fill on weekends.

A Hostels usually include a simple breakfast. Midrange and top-end hotels usually don't include breakfast unless part of a special deal.

A Tipping isn't expected in hostels. At higher-end establishments, consider tipping porters around $2 to $5 and housekeeping $2.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/singapore) Destination information and online bookings.

Your Singapore (www.yoursingapore.com) Official tourism board website.

Booking.com (www.booking.com) Online hotel search engine and booking service.

City Nomads (www.citynomads.com) A good online guide to Singapore.

Best Budget

Bunc@Radius ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6262 2862; www.bunchostel.com; 15 Upper Weld Rd; dm incl breakfast from $20; aiW; mBugis, Little India)

5Footway.Inn Project Boat Quay ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.5footwayinn.com; 76 Boat Quay; dm from $22, tw incl breakfast $76; aiW; mClarke Quay)

Checkers Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6392 0693; www.checkersinn.com.sg; 46-50 Campbell Lane; dm incl breakfast from $25; aiW; mLittle India)

Best Midrange

Wanderlust ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6396 3322; www.wanderlusthotel.com; 2 Dickson Rd; r from $170; aiW; mBugis)

Park Regis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6818 8888; www.parkregissingapore.com; 23 Merchant Rd; r from $200; aiWs; mClarke Quay)

Holiday Inn Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6690 3199; www.ihg.com; 20 Bideford Rd; r incl breakfast from $200; aiW; mSomerset)

Bliss Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6438 1088; www.blisshotel.com.sg; 62 Upper Cross St; s/d from $120/140; aW; mChinatown)

Best Top End

Fullerton Bay Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6333 8388; www.fullertonbayhotel.com; 80 Collyer Quay; r from $550; aiWs; mRaffles Place)

Parkroyal on Pickering ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6809 8888; www.parkroyalhotels.com; 3 Upper Pickering St; r from $350; aiWs; mChinatown)

Naumi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6403 6000; www.naumihotel.com; 41 Seah St; r incl breakfast from $400; aiWs; mCity Hall, Esplanade)

Capella Singapore ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6591 5000; www.capellahotels.com/singapore; 1 The Knolls, Sentosa Island; r from $710, villas from $1200; aiWs; Beach)

Arriving in Singapore

Changi Airport

This international airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 542 4422; www.changiairport.com) is 20km northeast of the city centre. There are three main terminals, with a fourth terminal scheduled to open in 2017.

A Bus Public bus 36 runs from Terminals 1, 2 and 3 to Orchard Rd and the Colonial District ($1.85, one hour). Buses leave roughly every five to 15 minutes, the first departing just after 6am and the last just before 11pm.

A Airport shuttle Faster and more convenient are the airport shuttle buses (adult/child $9/6, 20 to 40 minutes) that leave from all main terminal arrival halls and drop passengers at any hotel, except for those on Sentosa and in Changi Village. Shuttle buses leave from Terminals 1, 2 and 3. Waiting time is up to 15 minutes during peak hours (6am to 9am and 5pm to 1am) and up to 30 minutes at all other times. See the Ground Transport Desk in the arrival halls.

A MRT The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is the best low-cost way to get into town. The station is located below Terminals 2 and 3, the fare to Orchard Rd is $2.30 and the journey takes around 40 minutes. Change trains at Tanah Merah (just cross the platform). Trains run between 5.30am (6am Sundays) and 11.18pm.

A Taxi Taxi lines at Changi are fast-moving and efficient. The fare structure is complicated, but count on spending anywhere between $18 and $38 into the city centre, depending on the time of travel. The most expensive time is between 5pm and 6am, when numerous surcharges kick in. A four-seater limousine transfer service operates 24 hours a day and costs a flat $55 ($60 for a seven-seater) to anywhere on the island, plus $15 per additional stop. Enquire at the Ground Transport Desk at the airport.

Train

A Trains from Malaysia terminate at Woodlands Train Checkpoint ( GOOGLE MAP ; 11 Woodlands Crossing; g170, Causeway Link from Queen St). Trains depart daily from Butterworth at 8am and Kuala Lumpur (KL) at 8.30am, 2pm and 10.30pm. Journey time is 14 hours from Butterworth and eight to 8½ hours from KL. You can book tickets either at the station or via the KTM website.

Bus

A Many buses arriving from Malaysia terminate at Golden Mile Complex ( GOOGLE MAP ; 5001 Beach Rd; dishes from S$3.50; h10am-10pm; Lavender, Bugis), close to Kampong Glam. From Johor Bahru in Malaysia, Causeway Link (www.causewaylink.com.my; one-way $2.50/RM2.60; hevery 15 to 30 mins, roughly 6am-11.30pm) commuter buses run regularly to various locations in Singapore, including Newton Circus, Jurong East Bus Terminal and Kranji MRT station.

Boat

There are several main ferry terminals with services from Malaysia and Indonesia.

Changi Point Ferry Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6546 8518; 51 Lorong Bekukong; mTanah Merah then bus 2)

HarbourFront Cruise & Ferry Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6513 2200; www.singaporecruise.com; mHarbourFront)

Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6513 2200; www.singaporecruise.com; mTanah Merah then bus 35)

Getting Around

Top Tip Singapore is the easiest city in Asia to get around. The TransitLink Guide ($2.80 from Kinokuniya book store) lists all MRT and bus routes and includes maps showing the surrounding area of all MRT stations. For online bus information, including the useful IRIS service (which offers live next-bus departure times), see www.sbstransit.com.sg or download the ‘SBS Transit iris’ smartphone app. For train information, see www.smrt.com.sg. There’s also a consolidated website at www.publictransport.sg.

Travel Passes

There are two kinds of pass for Singapore public transport that save a lot of hassle buying tickets every time you travel.

A Buy the EZ-Link card from the customer service windows at MRT stations ($12, including a $5 nonrefundable deposit). The card can also be bought at 7-Elevens for $10 (which also includes a $5 nonrefundable deposit). The card is valid on all buses and trains and can be topped up with cash or ATM cards at station ticket machines.

A The Singapore Tourist Pass (www.thesingaporetouristpass.com.sg) offers unlimited travel on trains and most buses for $10 a day, plus a refundable $10 deposit.

Mass Rapid Transit (MRT)

A Singapore's efficient metro system has five lines: the North-South (Red Line), Northeast (Purple Line), East-West (Green Line), Circle Line (Yellow) and Downtown Line (Blue). Extensions of the Downtown line (known as Downtown 2 and Downtown 3) are scheduled to open in 2016 and 2017 respectively.

Trains run from 5.30am to midnight, running every two to three minutes during peak times and every five to seven minutes off-peak.

Single-trip fares cost $1.40 to $2.50 (plus a $1 refundable deposit). If you're planning on multiple trips, consider purchasing the more convenient EZ-Link card or Singapore Tourist Pass.

Bus

A Singapore's bus service is clean, extensive and frequent, reaching every corner of the island. The two main operators are SBS Transit (%1800 287 2727; www.sbstransit.com.sg) and SMRT (www.smrt.com.sg). Check the websites for information and routes.

A Fares range from $1 to $2.10 (less with an EZ-Link card). When boarding, drop the exact coins into the fare box (no change is given) or tap your EZ-Link card or Tourist Pass on the reader as you enter and exit the vehicle.

A SMRT also runs late-night bus services between the city and various suburbs from 11.30pm to 2.30am on Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of public holidays. The flat rate per journey is $4.50. See the website for route details.

Tourist Buses

Singapore Airlines runs the SIA Hop-On (%6338 6877; www.siahopon.com; 24hr ticket for SIA passengers adult/child $8/4, non-passengers $25/15) tourist bus, traversing the main tourist arteries every 30 minutes daily, starting at Raffles Blvd at 9am, with the last bus leaving at 7.35pm and terminating at Raffles Hotel at 8.55pm. Buy tickets from the driver.

City Hippo offers a confusing array of tour options round all the major sites. Twenty-four-hour tickets including a river cruise cost adult/child $33/23.

Taxi

A The 'taxi issue' is one of Singapore's big unsolvable problems and finding a taxi at certain times (peak hours, at night or when it's raining) is harder than it should be.

The fare structure is complicated, but mercifully metered. Basic flagfall is $3 to $3.40, then $0.22 for every 400m. Some of the many surcharges include 50% of the metered fare from midnight to 6am, 25% of the metered fare between 6am and 9.30am Monday to Friday and 6pm to midnight daily, $5 for airport trips from 5pm to midnight Friday to Sunday ($3 at all other times), $2.30 to $8 for phone bookings and 10% for credit-card payments. You can also pay using your EZ-Link transport card. For a comprehensive list of fares and surcharges, visit www.taxisingapore.com.

A You can flag down a taxi any time, but in the city centre taxis are allowed to stop only at designated taxi stands.

A To order a taxi, call Comfort Taxi and CityCab (6552 1111), Premier Taxis (6363 6888) or SMRT Taxis (6555 8888).

Essential Information

Business Hours

Opening hours can vary between individual businesses. General opening hours are as follows:

Shops 10am–6pm; malls and department stores 10am or 11am–10pm

Banks 9.30am–4.30pm Monday to Friday, some branches open at 10am and some close at 6pm or later; Saturday 9.30am to noon or later.

Restaurants noon–2pm and 6–10pm, casual restaurants, food courts and hawker centres all day

Customs

A It is illegal to bring in tobacco unless you pay duty.

A The limit on alcohol is 1L each of wine, beer or spirits duty-free. Alternatively, you are allowed 2L of wine and 1L of beer, or 2L of beer and 1L of wine. You need to have been out of Singapore for more than 48 hours and to anywhere else but Malaysia.

A It's illegal to bring in the following items: chewing gum, firecrackers, drugs, obscene or seditious material, gun-shaped cigarette lighters, endangered species or their by-products, and pirated recordings and publications.

Discounts

A If you're arriving on Singapore Airlines or Silk Air, you are entitled to discounts at selected hotels, shops, restaurants and attractions by presenting your boarding pass. See www.singaporeair.com/boardingpass for details.

Electricity

A Plugs are of the three-pronged, square-pin type used in the UK. Electricity runs at 230V and 50Hz cycles.

Emergencies

Ambulance, Fire 995

Police 999

Holidays

New Year's Day 1 January

Chinese New Year Three days in January/February

Good Friday March/April

Labour Day 1 May

Vesak Day June

Hari Raya Puasa July

National Day 9 August

Hari Raya Haji September

Deepavali November

Christmas Day 25 December

Money

A Singapore's unit of currency is the Singapore dollar.

A Cirrus-enabled ATM machines are widely available at malls, banks, MRT stations and commercial areas.

A While banks change money, currency conversion rates are better at the moneychangers dotted all over the city. These tiny stalls can be found in most shopping centres (though not necessarily in the more modern malls). Rates for amounts over $500 can be haggled a little.

A Credit cards are widely accepted, except at local hawker centres and food courts.

Telephone

A There are no area codes within Singapore; telephone numbers are eight digits unless you are calling toll-free (1800).

A If you plan to use an unlocked phone in Singapore, it's usually cheaper to purchase a local SIM card and number for your mobile. Local SIM cards cost around $18 (including credit) from post offices, convenience stores and local Telco stores; bring your passport.

A Roaming charges apply if using your own number, but as Singapore's two cell phone networks (GSM900 and GSM1800) make it compatible with most of the rest of the world you'll still be in business.

A In certain areas – mostly along the coast of East Coast Park – Indonesia's signal may push into Singapore's 'airspace', so your calls will be routed through Indonesia – a potentially costly detour!

Useful Phone Numbers

Flight Information 1800 542 4422

Singapore International Dial Code 65

STB Touristline 1800 736 2000

Tourist Information

Singapore Tourism Board ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 736 2000; www.yoursingapore.com; cnr Orchard & Cairnhill Rds; h9.30am-10.30pm; mSomerset) provides the widest range of services, including tour bookings and event ticketing. There are visitor centres at the following locations: ION Orchard ( GOOGLE MAP ; Level 1, Ion Orchard Mall, 2 Orchard Turn; h10am-10pm; mOrchard) and Orchard Road ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1800 736 2000; www.yoursingapore.com; cnr Orchard & Cairnhill Rds; h9.30am-10.30pm; mSomerset).

Travellers with Disabilities

A Most major hotels, shopping malls and tourist attractions have good wheelchair access, but Little India and Chinatown's crowded narrow footpaths will challenge anyone with mobility, sight or hearing issues. Taxis are usually plentiful and the MRT is wheelchair-friendly.

A The Disabled People's Association of Singapore (www.dpa.org.sg) has information on accessibility in the city.

Visas

A Citizens of most countries are granted 30- or 90-day entry on arrival. Citizens of India, Myanmar, the Commonwealth of Independent States and most Middle Eastern countries must obtain a visa before arriving in Singapore. Visit www.ica.gov.sg for detailed information on entry requirements.

Language

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Our Readers

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Jill Cody , Charles Hayter, Dale Holyoak, Olga Plak, Peter Yellowlees.

Cristian’s Thanks

A heartfelt thank you to Helen Burge, Alistair Cook, Felix Haubold, Chris Edwards, Jonathan Choe, Guillaume D, Mary-Ann Gardner, Sara Egan, Myles Bascao Agunit , Benjamin Milton Hampe, Michael Dean, Richie Raupe, Lim Wee Keong, and my ever-patient family.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Chinese New Year celebrations, Marina Bay, Gavin Hellier/AWL

This Book

This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Singapore was researched and written by Cristian Bonetto. The previous edition was also researched by Cristian and the 2nd edition was written

by Joshua Samuel Brown and Mat Oakely. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Destination Editor Sarah Reid

Product Editor Penny Cordner

Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan

Book Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors Victoria Harrison, Christopher Pitts

Assisting Cartographer Rachel Imeson

Assisting Book Designer Jennifer Mullins

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Elin Berglund, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jouve India, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Sam

Tyson, Lauren Wellicome, Dora Whitaker

Ebook thanks to Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Cristian Bonetto

Cristian has been roaming Singapore’s famous and lesser-known corners for years, and his addiction to the city’s food, architecture and climate is yet to wane. Also the author of Lonely Planet’s Singapore, the Australian-born writer majored in English and politics at the University of

Melbourne before embarking on a career as a playwright and television scriptwriter. With a passion for cities and air miles, it was only a matter of time before he turned to travel writing. To date, Cristian has contributed to 13 Lonely Planet titles including New York City, Italy, Denmark and Sweden. His musings have also appeared in a string of other publications including The Telegraph (UK), 7X7 (San Francisco), and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). Follow Cristian on Twitter @cristianbonetto.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

4 edition - Jun 2015

ISBN 9781743602614

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.