Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Reykjavik

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Reykjavik and Around

Explore

Old Reykjavik

Old Harbour

Laugavegur & Skolavoerdhustigur

Laugardalur

Viðey Island

Blue Lagoon

Reykjanes Peninsula

Golden Circle

South Coast

Jökulsárlón

West Iceland

Best

The Best of Reykjavik and Around

Historic Reykjavik

Reykjavik Art & Design

Eating

Cafes & Bars

Museums, Exhibitions & Galleries

Tours

Natural Wonders

With Kids

Shopping

Festivals

For Free

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Reykjavik

Getting Around

Essential Information

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Reykjavík

The world’s most northerly capital combines colourful buildings, wild nightlife and a capricious soul to brilliant effect. The quirky Reykjavikers embrace their sense of community and bring a joy to life, creating captivating museums, cool music, and off-beat cafes and bars. Reykjavík is a superb base for touring Iceland's natural wonders: glacier-topped volcanoes, shimmering falls and black-sand beaches.

Yacht marina at Harpa concert hall

RICHARD CUMMINGS/GETTY IMAGES ©

1

Reykjavík and Around

Top Sights

National Museum

Iceland's National Museum gathers together the country's most priceless artefacts, creating a trail of clues to life at Settlement and beyond. Peruse the finds and gain insight into the hardy hearts of Icelanders.

AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Whale Watching

Whale-watching boats depart from Reykjavík's Old Harbour in search of the magnificent leviathans diving, jumping and spouting off Iceland's shores. You might spot minkes, humpbacks, fin whales and more, plus diminutive puffins.

MEGAN WHITTAKER/ALAMY ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition

The modern era meets the Viking longhouse at this exhibition centred on Reykjavík's oldest ruins, and souped up with fun, fascinating space-age displays.

ARCTIC IMAGES/ALAMY ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Hallgrímskirkja

The capital's iconic church perches atop the city centre and is visible for miles around. From the heights of its modernist steeple survey the broad sweep of the city, ocean and snow-capped mountains.

GÜNTHER EGGER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Gullfoss

Thundering layers of icy water cascade over tiered rock faces and down an impressively narrow gorge at Iceland's iconic Gullfoss. Literally 'Golden Falls', they, indeed, live up to their name when they sparkle in sunset light.

LOURDES ORTEGA POZA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Þingvellir

The continental plates part at historic Þingvellir, the site of the original (outdoor!) Icelandic parliament. Waterfalls gush off the rift and ancient stones mark the earliest eras of Iceland's history.

MATT FRANKEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Blue Lagoon

Wash away your cares at the ethereal Blue Lagoon, the flashiest version of Icelandic hot-potting. Set in otherworldly lava fields, with its vibrant geothermal turquoise waters, there's really nothing else like it.

JONATHAN PERCY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Geysir

Iceland's impressive Geysir rises from a bubbling, hissing geothermal field surrounded by a contrasting lush valley. Like clockwork, one of the geysers makes a swooshing whoop as it shoots boiling water into the air.

SAMULI VAINIONPÄÄ/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Snæfellsjökull National Park

With its wild beaches, multicoloured lava fields and glittering glacier crown, the Snæfellsjökull National Park offers one of Iceland’s best escapes – either as a day trip from Reykjavík or as a relaxing long weekend.

WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Settlement Centre

Lively Borgarnes was the site of some of Iceland's most dramatic Saga action. Its Settlement Centre brilliantly recounts the country's discovery and settlement, as well as one of its most intriguing heroes, from Egil's Saga.

CHRIS HOWARTH/ICELAND/ALAMY ©

Reykjavík and Around Top Sights

Jökulsárlón

A sparkling procession of luminous-blue icebergs shear off from Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and drift serenely through the 25-sq-km Jökulsárlón lagoon in ever-changing light, before floating by bobbing seals and out to sea.

NATTACHAI SESAUD/GETTY IMAGES ©

l

Reykjavík and Around

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Reykjavík and Around

Reykjavík is small, approachable and charming, and in an absolutely gorgeous seaside setting, but its real magic is its people. A lively, creative, unself-conscious group, they live with inspiration and insight, they play hard, and they do it all with an easy aplomb.

Djammið Nightlife

A Lively bars

A Partying with locals

Some visitors come to Reykjavík just for its nightlife. You may not realise it, but this tiny town can get out and party. The local name for it is djammið – a booze-drenched parade through the central Reykjavík streets, skipping from bar to bar.

Reykjavík nightclub

HEMIS/ALAMY ©

Laugardalur

A Geothermal pools

A Parks & gardens

One of the the favourite pastimes of Icelanders is a good soak and a chat at the geothermal springs. One of the largest pools, in Laugardalur, a valley of hot springs, sits alongside a popular spa, botanic gardens, bustling children's park and excellent local art museums.

Laugardalur

PALL GUDONSSON;PALLGUDJONSSON.ZENFOLIO.COM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Viðey Island

A Secluded island

A Coastal views

Little Viðey Island, just offshore from Reykjavík, was one of the first spots settled in Iceland. Now an uninhabited, dreamy haven, it's dotted with unique art installations and criss-crossed by lovely walking and cycling tracks – a favourite quick getaway for Reykjavikers.

Reykjanes Peninsula

A Windswept Villages

A Volcanic landscapes

Yes, the Reykjanes Peninsula is home to the famous Blue Lagoon, but locals know it's also a land of fishing villages and lonely lighthouses, dramatic cliffs and migrating seabirds. You'll find Reykjavikers hiking or ATV-ing along its mineral lakes, volcanoes, beaches and rugged lava fields.

Other great places to experience the area like a local:

* Tiú Droppar

Ostabúðin

Bæjarins Beztu

Lucky Records & 12 Tónar

Grái Kötturinn

Valdi's

Vestmannaeyjar Islands

Stokkseyri & Eyrarbakki

South Coast Horse Riding

West Iceland's Favourite Trails

R

Reykjavík and Around

Day Planner

Short on time?

We've arranged Reykjavík's must-sees into these day-by-day itineraries to make sure you see the very best of the city and its surroundings in the time you have available.

Day One

M Explore the historic Old Reykjavík quarter, taking in the Ráðhús (city hall) and Alþingi (parliament), then peruse the city’s best museums, such as the impressive National Museum, Reykjavík Art Museum or Reykjavík 871 +/-2, built around a Viking longhouse. Lunch at hip Nora Magasin, or on a sunny day, grab a beer on Austurvöllur square at Café Paris.

R Wander up arty Skólavörðustígur, shop for the latest Icelandic music at 12 Tónar, then photograph the immense church, Hallgrímskirkja. For a perfect view, zip up the tower, then stroll Laugavegur, the main shopping drag, with boutiques such as Kiosk and KronKron, or enormous bookshop Mál og Menning. Alternatively, take a dip at the Sundhöllin then examine the extraordinary Icelandic Phallological Museum.

N Sit for people-watching and drinks at Bravó or Tiú Droppar then go for dinner. Restaurants like Vegamót, KEX and K-Bar turn into night-time party hangouts, perfect for joining Reykjavík’s notorious pub crawl djammið. Don't miss perennial favourite Kaffibarinn or beer-lovers' Kaldi, and tag along with locals to the latest, greatest drinking holes.

Day Two

M After a late night out, brunch at Bergsson Mathús, Grái Kötturinn or Laundromat Café. Then head over to the Old Harbour for its museums, such as Víkin Maritime Museum or Saga Museum, and a whale-watching tour. If sailing the open seas gets you hungry for lunch, grab a grilled fish skewer at Sægreifinn.

R Visit Laugardalur, east of the centre, for a soak at the geothermal pools, gardens, idyllic Café Flóra and cool art. Or ferry out to historic Viðey Island, rent a bike and cruise its paths between art installations and fishing village ruins.

N Book ahead for a swanky evening at a top Icelandic restaurant, such as Dill or Þrír Frakkar, then hit one of the new breed of cocktail bars, such as Loftið. Alternatively, try out Reykjavík's most revered hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu, then catch a show at Harpa, an Icelandic movie at Bíó Paradís or live music at Café Rosenberg.

Day Three

M If you've got the time and can rent your own wheels, you can extend these country loops. Day tours are also a popular, effective option. Get an early start with the famous Golden Circle. Explore the rift and historic parliament site Þingvellir then lunch in Laugarvatn on delicious local fare at Lindin.

R Zip to spouting Geysir and cascading Gullfoss, leaving time for river rafting out of Reykholt or a soak at the natural, restored spring at Gamla Laugin in Flúðir. Alternatively, roam the Þjórsárdalur, a broad volcanic river valley with a handful of disparate sights including a Settlement Era farmstead, hidden waterfalls and the foothills of Hekla volcano.

N If you're tired, head home, stopping for dinner at Tryggvaskála in Selfoss or Varma in Hveragerði. If not, use your car to go to the shore for seafood at sleepy fishing villages Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki. Or, if you haven't the time to visit the Blue Lagoon coming or going from the airport, go late this evening, after the crowds have dwindled, before returning to Reykjavík.

Day Four

M You'll have to choose between the wonderful west or the famous south. If you're going to west Iceland, spend the morning at Borgarnes' Settlement Centre learning about Icelandic history and fantastical Egil's Saga. If you're heading south, drive to Hella or Hvolsvöllur for horse riding, or zoom all the way to Skógar via its marvellous falls Seljalandsfoss & Gljúfurárbui. Catch an amphibious bus or join a super-Jeep trip to Þórsmörk, a forested valley, or take a guided walk on glacial tongue Sólheimajökull.

R In the west, choose between exploring inland lava tubes at Viðgelmir and the interior of a glacier at Langjökull Ice Cave, or hiking, whale watching and glacier walking in Snæfellsjökull National Park. In the south, shoot out to Vík for black basalt beach Reynisfjara and enormous rock arch landmark Dyrhólaey.

N In the west, finish in Stykkishólmur with dinner at Plássið or Narfeyrarstofa. In the south, if you're still zippy, barrel up the northeast coast, through otherworldly rocky deltas and grand buttes, to the incredible (no hyperbole) glacier tongues descending from Vatnajökull, and fantastical glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón.

Need to Know

Currency

Icelandic króna (Ikr)

Language

Icelandic; English widely spoken

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days. Member of the Schengen Convention.

Money

Credit cards reign supreme, even in the most rural reaches of the country (PIN required for some purchases, such as petrol). ATMs available in all towns.

Mobile Phones

Mobile coverage widespread. Visitors with GSM phones can make roaming calls; purchase a local SIM card if you’re staying awhile.

Time

Western European Time Zone (GMT/UTC, same as London)

Plugs & Adaptors

Plugs have two round pins; electrical current is 220V. North American visitors require an adaptor, and for non-compatible gadgets, a transformer.

Tipping

As service and VAT (value-added tax) are always included in prices, tipping isn’t required in Iceland.

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than Ikr20,000

A Dorm bed Ikr4000–7000

A Grill-bar grub/soup lunch Ikr1200–1800

A Golden Circle bus pass Ikr8500

Midrange Ikr20,000–35,000

A Guesthouse double room Ikr17,000–25,000

A Cafe meal Ikr1800–3000

A Small vehicle rental Ikr14,000

Top End more than Ikr35,000

A Boutique double room Ikr30,000–50,000

A Main dish in top restaurant Ikr4000–7000

A 4WD rental Ikr30,000

Useful Websites

Visit Iceland (www.visiticeland.com) Official tourism portal.

Visit Reykjavík (www.visitreykjavik.is) Official capital site.

Reykjavík Grapevine (www.grapevine.is) Great English-language newspaper/website.

Iceland Review (www.icelandreview.com) News, current affairs, entertainment and more.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/iceland) Destination information, traveller forum and more.

Advance Planning

Three to six months before Book all accommodation in Reykjavík and beyond. Demand always outstrips supply.

One month before Book adventure or bus tours in the countryside.

One week before Reserve tables at top restaurants. Prebook airport bus if you want to hit the Blue Lagoon on arrival.

2Arriving in Reykjavík

Iceland’s primary international airport, Keflavík International Airport (KEF) is 48km west of Reykjavík, on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Frequent, convenient buses serve central Reykjavík.

A From Keflavík International Airport

Bus Flybus, Airport Express and discount operator K-Express, whose stop is off-terminal, have buses connecting the airport with Reykjavík (50 minutes). Flybus offers pick-up/drop-off at many accommodations (Ikr1950 to Reykjavík, Ikr2500 to hotel), and also serves the Blue Lagoon.

A At the Airport

Keflavík International Airport The airport has ATMs, money exchange, car hire, an information desk and cafes. The duty-free shops in the arrival area sell liquor at far better prices than you'll find in town. There's also a desk for collecting duty-free cash back from eligible purchases in Iceland. The 10-11 convenience store sells SIM cards, and major tour companies like Reykjavík Excursions and Grey Line have desks.

3Getting Around

A car is unnecessary in central Reykjavík as it’s so easy to explore on foot and by bus. Car and camper hire are best for countryside excursions.

J Local Bus

Strætó operates regular, easy buses around Reykjavík and its suburbs; it also operates long-distance buses, (see Click here). It has online schedules, a smartphone app and a route book for sale at Hlemmur bus station (Ikr0.50). Many free maps, such as the Welcome to Reykjavík City Map, also include bus-route maps.

The fare is Ikr350 and can be paid on board (no change given). Buses run from 7am until 11pm or midnight daily (from 10am on Sunday). A limited night-bus service runs until 2am on Friday and Saturday.

K Car

The most common way for visitors to get around outside of Reykjavík, car are pricey to hire but provide great freedom. A 2WD vehicle will get you almost everywhere in summer (note: not into the highlands, or on F roads). Summer-only 4WD buses go to the highlands, or you'll need a 4WD or a tour. Cars are available at both airports, the BSÍ bus terminal and some city locations.

J Regional Bus

Iceland has a decent bus network operating from around mid-May to mid-September between major destinations. Outside these months services are less frequent (or nonexistent).

Regional Flights

If you're short on time, domestic flights can help you maximise your stay.

Reykjavík and Around

Old Reykjavik

Old Harbour

Laugavegur & Skolavoerdhustigur

Golden Circle

South Coast

West Iceland

Old Reykjavík

The area dubbed Old Reykjavík is the jaunty heart of the capital. Anchored by placid Tjörnin, the city-centre lake, the neighbourhood is loaded with brightly coloured residential houses, and a series of great sights and interesting historic buildings. Old Reykjavík is also tops for a wander: from the seafront to Austurvöllur park, Alþingi (parliament) and Raðhús (city hall), and on to the National Museum.

HELGISKULASON/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Neighbourhood in a Day

M Get an early start at the Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús or the Reykjavík Museum of Photography for the city's best contemporary art, then stroll up through the oldest parts of town around Austurvöllur, where you'll find the Alþingi and Raðhús on the edge of pretty Tjörnin lake. Visit the Viking longhouse and high-tech exhibits at Reykjavík 871 +/-2 before heading to lunch at Bergsson Mathús or Nora Magasin.

R Walk through the lake's parks or hop a bus to reach the absorbing National Museum. Spend the afternoon perusing the country's most precious artefacts, while learning about its history.

N Head back to the centre for a fantastic dinner at Grillmarkaðurinn or a casual meal at Laundromat Café, then tip back brews at Micro Bar or dress up for fine cocktails at Loftið. Catch live bands at Húrra, before late-night dancing at Paloma or nightcap hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu.

Top Experiences

National Museum

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition

x  Best of Reykjavík

Eating

Grillmarkaðurinn

Fiskfélagið

Fiskmarkaðurinn

Bæjarins Beztu

Lobster Hut

Museums, Exhibitions & Galleries

National Museum

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition

Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús

Reykjavík Museum of Photography

i8

Volcano House

Getting There

On Foot Central Reykjavík is super-compact and walkable. You'll get to most places on foot.

g Bus City buses 1, 3, 6, 12 and 14 from Hlemmur all stop in Old Reykjavík at Lækjartorg and Raðhús.

g Bus Bus 12 connects Laugardalur, Hlemmur and Old Reykjavík, as does bus 14, which also goes to the Old Harbour.

1

Top Sights

National Museum

The superb National Museum beautifully displays artefacts from Settlement to the modern age that have been collected from all over Iceland. Whether you come at the beginning or the end of your trip, this museum provides a meaningful overview of Iceland’s history and culture. Brilliantly curated displays lead you through the struggle to settle and organise the forbidding island, the radical changes wrought by the advent of Christianity, the lean times of domination by foreign powers and Iceland's eventual independence.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Þjóðminjasafn Íslands; %530 2200; www.nationalmuseum.is; Suðurgata 41; adult/child Ikr1500/free, audioguide Ikr300; h10am-5pm May–mid-Sep, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–Apr; g1, 3, 6, 12 or 14

JOE VOGAN/ALAMY ©

y Top Tips

A The excellent audioguide (Ikr300) adds loads of useful detail. The one for kids is in Icelandic or English only.

A Free English tours are run at 11am on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from mid-May to September.

A Leave a little extra time for the museum's rotating photographic exhibitions.

A It's a bit out of the way; hop on bus 1, 3, 6, 12 or 14 to reach the museum.

5 Take a Break

The museum's ground-floor cafe offers wi-fi and a welcome respite, with wraparound windows looking out on a flowing fountain. It serves a full range of coffee drinks, and wholesome soups, sandwiches and salads (snacks Ikr600 to Ikr1600).

Otherwise, you'll need to hop a bus back into the centre for food.

Don't Miss

Settlement Era Finds

The premier section of the museum describes the Settlement Era, and features swords, meticulously carved drinking horns, and silver hoards. A powerful bronze figure of Thor is thought to date to about 1000 (some say it's a representation of Christ).

Domestic Life

Exhibits explain how the chieftains ruled and how people survived on little, lighting their dark homes and fashioning bog iron. There's everything from the remains of early skyr production to intricate pendants and broaches. Look for the Viking-era hnefatafl game set (a bit like chess); this artefact's discovery in a grave in Baldursheimar led to the founding of the museum.

Viking Graves

Encased in the floor, you'll find Viking-era graves, with their precious burial goods: horse bones, a sword, pins, a ladle, a comb. One of the tombs containing an eight-month-old infant is the only one of its kind ever found.

Ecclesiastical Artefacts

The section of the museum that details the introduction of Christianity is chock-a-block with rare art and artefacts. For example, the priceless 13th-century Valþjófsstaðir church door is carved with the story of a knight, his lion and a passel of dragons.

The Modern Era

Upstairs, collections span from 1600 to today and give a clear sense of how Iceland struggled under foreign rule, finally gained independence, and went on to modernise. Among home-made objects utilising every scrap you'll find gaming pieces made from cod ear bones. Look for the papers and belongings of Jón Sigurðsson, the architect of Iceland’s independence.

1

Top Sights

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition

This fascinating archaeological ruin–museum is based around a 10th-century Viking longhouse, and the other Settlement-era finds from central Reykjavík. The museum's unconventional name comes from the estimated date of the tephra layer beneath the longhouse (the year 871, plus or minus two years). Fine exhibitions imaginatively combine technological wizardry and archaeology to give a glimpse into early Icelandic life. Excavations in the area are ongoing and on-site curators and archaeo-anthropologists have a passion for bringing history to life.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%411 6370; www.reykjavikmuseum.is; Aðalstræti 16; adult/child Ikr1300/free; h10am-5pm, English-language tour 11am Mon, Wed & Fri Jun-Aug

ARCTIC-IMAGES/CORBIS ©

y Top Tips

A Excellent English-language tours run at 11am Monday, Wednesday and Friday from June to August.

A Informative multilingual audioguides are free.

A The museum's fun kids' corner has traditional Icelandic toys, rune spelling exercises and computer games.

A Museum entry is part of a joint ticket with Árbæjarsafn ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.reykjavikmuseum.is; Kistuhylur 4, Ártúnsholt; adult/child Ikr1300/free; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, by tour only 1pm Mon-Fri Sep-May; c; g12, 19 or 24) open-air museum, 4km east of the centre.

5 Take a Break

Stroll up to Tjörnin to find the lakeside city hall, inside of which Við Tjörnina is a relaxing cafe-restaurant with views to the water and the frolicking ducks. Or, head a couple of blocks northeast to the Austurvöllur square area, where cafes and bars such as Café Paris spill onto the park in warmer months.

Don't Miss

Viking Longhouse

The entire museum is constructed around a 10th-century Viking longhouse unearthed here on Aðalstræti from 2001 to 2002. Mainly a series of foundation walls now, it was thought to be inhabited for only 60 years. Things to look out for are areas with animal bones deliberately built into the structure (for good fortune, perhaps), and the old spring.

Boundary Wall

Tephra layers are the layer of fragments from a volcanic eruption, and are used to date sites around Iceland. The longhouse was built on top of the 871 layer, but don't miss the fragment of boundary wall at the back of the museum, which was found below the tephra layer, and is thus older still. It's the oldest human-made structure in Reykjavík.

Ancient Artefacts

Arcing around the side of the exhibit, softly lit niches contain artefacts found in the area, ranging from great auk bones (the bird is now extinct) to fish oil lamps and an iron axe. The latest finds from ancient workshops near the current Alþingi include a silver bracelet and a spindle whorl (for making thread) inscribed with runes (reading 'Vilborg owns me').

High-Tech Displays

Among the captivating high-tech displays are interactive multimedia tables explaining the area's excavations, which span several city blocks; a wrap-around panorama showing how things would have looked at the time of the longhouse; and a space-age-feeling panel that allows you to steer through different layers of the longhouse's construction.

Top Experiences

National Museum  A5

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition  B2

Experiences

1Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús  C1

2Tjörnin  B4

3i8  B1

4Austurvöllur  C2

5Alþingi  C2

6Raðhús  B3

7Reykjavík Museum of Photography  C1

8Volcano House  B1

9Dómkirkja  C3

5 Eating

10Nora Magasin  C2

11Grillmarkaðurinn  D2

12Fiskfélagið  C1

13Bergsson Mathús  C3

Laundromat Café  C2

14Við Tjörnina  B3

Icelandic Fish & Chips  B1

15Fiskmarkaðurinn  B2

16Café Paris  C2

17Lobster Hut  D2

6 Drinking

18Micro Bar  C2

19Loftið  C2

20Paloma  C1

21Hressingarskálinn  D2

22Lavabarinn  D2

3 Entertainment

23Húrra  C1

24Iðnó Theatre  C3

7 Shopping

25Kirsuberjatréð  B1

26Kraum  B2

27Iceland Giftstore  D2

28Eymundsson  C2

29Gaga  C1

30Kickstart  B1

Experiences

1Reykjavík Art Museum – HafnarhúsART MUSEUM

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Reykjavík Art Museum's Hafnarhús is a marvellously restored warehouse converted into a soaring steel-and-concrete exhibition space. Though the well-curated exhibitions of cutting-edge contemporary Icelandic art change frequently (think installations, videos, paintings and sculpture), you can always count on an area with the comic-book-style paintings of Erró (Guðmundur Guðmundsson), a political artist who has donated several thousand works to the museum. The cafe has great harbour views.

(%590 1200; www.artmuseum.is; Tryggvagata 17; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Thu)

Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús

MJ PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY ©

1TjörninLAKE

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This placid lake at the centre of the city is sometimes locally called the Pond. It echoes with the honks and squawks of over 40 species of visiting birds, including swans, geese and Arctic terns; feeding the ducks is a popular pastime for the under-fives. Pretty sculpture-dotted parks like Hljómskálagarður ( GOOGLE MAP ) line the southern shores, and their paths are much used by cyclists and joggers. In winter, hardy souls strap on ice skates and turn the lake into an outdoor rink.

1i8GALLERY

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This gallery represents some of the country’s top modern artists, many of whom show overseas as well.

(%551 3666; www.i8.is; Tryggvagata 16; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat)

1AusturvöllurPARK

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Grassy Austurvöllur was once part of first-settler Ingólfur Arnarson’s hay fields. Today it’s a favourite spot for cafe lounging or lunchtime picnics and summer sunbathing next to the Alþingi; it's also sometimes used for open-air concerts and political demonstrations. The statue in the centre is of Jón Sigurðsson, who led the campaign for Icelandic independence.

1AlþingiHISTORIC BUILDING

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Iceland’s first parliament, the Alþingi, was created at Þingvellir in AD 930. After losing its independence in the 13th century, the country gradually won back its autonomy, and the modern Alþingi moved into this current basalt building in 1881; a stylish glass-and-stone annexe was completed in 2002. Visitors can attend sessions (four times weekly October to May; see website for details) when parliament is sitting.

(Parliament; www.althingi.is; Kirkjustraeti)

Alþingi (parliament)

ARNTHOR AEVARSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

1RáðhúsNOTABLE BUILDING

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Reykjavík’s waterside Ráðhús is a beautifully positioned postmodern construction of concrete stilts, tinted windows and mossy walls rising from Tjörnin. Inside there’s one of the city's top cafe-restaurants, Við Tjörnina, and an interesting 3D map of Iceland.

(Vonarstræti; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun)

1Reykjavík Museum of PhotographyMUSEUM

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This gallery room above Reykjavík City Library is worth a visit for its top-notch exhibitions of regional photographers. If you take the lift up, descend by the stairs, which are lined with vintage black-and-white photos.

(Ljósmyndasafn Reykjavíkur; %411 6390; www.photomuseum.is; Tryggvagata 15, 6th fl, Grófarhús; hnoon-7pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun)

1Volcano HouseFILM

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This modern theatre with a lava exhibit in the foyer screens a 55-minute pair of films (in English) about the Westman Island volcanoes and Eyjafjallajökull. They show in German once daily in summer.

(%555 1900; www.volcanohouse.is; Tryggvagata 11; adult/child Ikr1990/500; hhourly 10am-9pm)

1DómkirkjaCHURCH

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Iceland’s main cathedral, Dómkirkja is a modest affair, but it played a vital role in the country’s conversion to Lutheranism. The current building (built in the 18th century and enlarged in 1848) is small and perfectly proportioned, with a plain wooden interior animated by glints of gold.

(www.domkirkjan.is; Kirkjustræti; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, mass 11am Sun)

Understand

Icelandic Settlement & Sagas

Rumour, myth and fantastic tales of fierce storms and barbaric dog-headed people kept most explorers away from the great northern ocean, oceanus innavigabilis. Irish monks who regularly sailed to the Faroe Islands looking for seclusion were probably the first to stumble upon Iceland. It’s thought that they settled around the year 700 but fled when Norsemen began to arrive in the early 9th century.

The Age of Settlement

The Age of Settlement is traditionally defined as between 870 and 930, when political strife on the Scandinavian mainland caused many to flee. Most North Atlantic Norse settlers were ordinary citizens: farmers and merchants who settled across Western Europe, marrying Britons, Westmen (Irish) and Scots.

Among Iceland's first Norse visitors was Norwegian Flóki Vilgerðarson, who uprooted his farm and headed for Snæland around 860. He navigated with ravens, which, after some trial and error, led him to his destination and provided his nickname, Hrafna-Flóki (Raven-Flóki). Hrafna-Flóki sailed to Vatnsfjörður on the west coast but became disenchanted with the conditions. On seeing the icebergs in the fjord he dubbed the country Ísland (Iceland) and returned to Norway. He did eventually settle in Iceland's Skagafjörður district.

According to the 12th-century Íslendingabók (a historical narrative of the Settlement Era), Ingólfur Arnarson fled Norway with his blood brother Hjörleifur, landing at Ingólfshöfði (southeast Iceland) in 871. They continued around the coast, and Ingólfur was led to Reykjavík by a pagan ritual: he tossed his high-seat pillars (a symbol of authority) into the sea as they approached land. Wherever the gods brought the pillars ashore would be the settlers’ new home. Ingólfur named Reykjavík (Smoky Bay) after the steam from its thermal springs. Hjörleifur settled near the present town of Vík, but was murdered by his slaves shortly thereafter.

The Saga Age

The late 12th century kicked off the Saga Age, when the epic tales of the earlier 9th- to 10th-century settlement were recorded by historians and writers. These sweeping prose epics or 'sagas' detail the family struggles, romance, vendettas and colourful characters of Settlement, and are the backbone of medieval Icelandic literature, and a rich source for historical understanding, (see also the boxed text, Click here).

Eating

5Nora MagasinBISTRO €€

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Hip and open-plan, this buzzy bistro-bar serves up a tasty run of burgers, salads and fresh fish mains creatively conceived by popular chef Völundur Völundarson. Coffee and cocktails run all night, but the kitchen closes at 10pm or 11pm.

(%578 2010; Pósthússtræti 9; mains Ikr1900-2500; h11.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

5GrillmarkaðurinnFUSION €€€

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Tippety-top dining is the order of the day here, from the moment you enter the glass atrium with the golden-globe lights to your first snazzy cocktail, and on through the meal. Service is impeccable, and locals and visitors alike rave about the food: locally sourced Icelandic ingredients prepared with culinary imagination by master chefs.

(Grill Market; %571 7777; www.grillmarkadurinn.is; Lækargata 2a; mains Ikr4200-7200)

5FiskfélagiðINTERNATIONAL €€€

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The ‘Fish Company’ takes Icelandic seafood recipes and spins them through a variety of far-flung inspirations from Fiji coconut to Spanish chorizo. Dine in an intimate-feeling stone-and-timber room with copper light fittings and quirky furnishings.

(www.fishcompany.is; Vesturgata 2a; mains lunch Ikr1600-2800, dinner Ikr3800-5400; h11.30am-2pm & 6-11.30pm)

5Bergsson MathúsCAFE €

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This popular, no-nonsense cafe features homemade breads, fresh produce and filling lunch specials. Stop by on weekends when locals flip through magazines, gossip and devour scrumptious brunch plates.

(%571 1822; www.bergsson.is; Templarasund 3; mains Ikr1300-2200; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; v)

5Laundromat CaféINTERNATIONAL €€

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This popular Danish import – downstairs from high-end cocktail bar Loftið – attracts both locals and travellers who devour heaps of hearty mains in a cheery environment surrounded by tattered paperbacks. Go for the ‘Dirty Brunch’ (Ikr2690) on weekends, to sop up the previous night's booze. Oh, and yes, there are (busy) washers and dryers in the basement (Ikr500/100 per wash/15-minute dry).

(www.thelaundromatcafe.com; Austurstæti 9; mains Ikr1000-2700; h8am-midnight Mon-Wed & Sun, to 1am Thu & Fri, 10am-1am Sat; Wc)

5Við TjörninaICELANDIC €€

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People are loyal to this well-regarded restaurant – recently relocated to city hall, with wrap-around windows and lake views – for its beautifully presented Icelandic seafood and other regional dishes like lamb fillet with barley. By day it's a relaxing cafe.

(%551 8666; www.vidtjornina.is; Vonarstræti, Ráðhús; mains Ikr3600-4600; hnoon-5pm & 6-10pm)

5Icelandic Fish & ChipsORGANIC, SEAFOOD €€

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Pick your fish, and voilà, spelt-batter fried it becomes. Pair it with local beer, organic salads (Ikr750 to Ikr950) and ‘Skyronnaises’ – skyr-based sauces (eg rosemary or green apple; Ikr280) that add a zing to this most traditional of dishes.

(%511 1118; www.fishandchips.is; Tryggvagata 11; fish Ikr1450; h11.30am-9pm)

5FiskmarkaðurinnSEAFOOD €€€

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This restaurant excels in infusing Icelandic seafood and local produce with Far Eastern flavours. For example, the tasting menu (Ikr9900) takes local catches (lobsters from Höfn, salmon from the Þjórsá, halibut from Breiðafjörður) and introduces them to chillis, papaya, coconut and satay glazes.

(%578 8877; www.fiskmarkadurinn.is; Aðalstræti 12; mains Ikr4300-6300; h11.30am-2pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun)

5Café ParisINTERNATIONAL €€

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This is one of the city’s prime people-watching spots, particularly in summer when outdoor seating spills onto Austurvöllur square, and at night, when the leather-upholstered interior fills with tunes and tinkling wine glasses. The mediocre selection of sandwiches, salads and burgers is secondary to the scene.

(%551 1020; www.cafeparis.is; Austurstræti 14; mains Ikr2300-5300; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

Café Paris

COMPAGNON BRUNO/SAGAPHOTO.COM/ALAMY ©

5Lobster HutSEAFOOD €

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What's it gonna be? Lobster soup? Lobster salad? Sandwich? This little food truck dishes it all out, for fine diners on the run. If you can't see the truck on Tryggvagata, check down on the corner of Hverfisgata.

(cnr Lækergata & Tryggvagata; mains Ikr990-1890; h11am-8pm)

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Local Life

The City's Best Hot Dogs

Icelanders swear the city's best hot dogs are at the Bæjarins Beztu ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bbp.is; Tryggvagata; hot dogs Ikr380; h10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4.30am Fri & Sat; c) truck near the harbour (patronised by Bill Clinton and late-night bar hoppers). Use the vital sentence 'Eina með öllu' (‘One with everything’) to get the quintessential favourite with sweet mustard, ketchup and crunchy onions.

Drinking

6Micro BarBAR

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Boutique brews is the name of the game at this low-key spot near Austurvöllur. Bottles of beer represent a slew of brands and countries, but more importantly you’ll discover 10 local draughts on tap from the island’s top microbreweries: the best selection in Reykjavík. The five-beer minisampler costs Ikr2500; happy hour (5pm to 7pm) offers Ikr600 beers.

(Austurstræti 6; h2pm-midnight Jun-Sep, 4pm-midnight Oct-May)

6LoftiðCOCKTAIL BAR

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Loftið is all about high-end cocktails and good living. Dress up to join the fray at this airy upstairs lounge with a zinc-bar, retro tailor-shop-inspired decor, vintage tiles and a swank crowd. The well booze here is the top-shelf liquor elsewhere, and they bring in jazzy bands on Thursday nights.

(%551 9400; www.loftidbar.is; Austurstræti 9, 2nd fl; h2pm-1am Sun-Thu, 4pm-4am Fri & Sat)

6PalomaCLUB

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One of Reykjavík's best late-night dance clubs, with DJs upstairs laying down electronica and pop, and a pool table in the basement. Find it in the same building as the Dubliner.

(Naustin 1-3; hclub 10pm-4.30am Fri & Sat, basement bar nightly from 8pm)

6HressingarskálinnPUB

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Known as Hressó, this large cafe-bar serves a diverse menu until 10pm – everything from porridge to plokkfiskur (fish stew); mains Ikr1700 to Ikr4500 – then at weekends it loses its civilised veneer and concentrates on drinks and dancing. DJs offer pop and rock Thursday through Saturday.

(www.hresso.is; Austurstræti 20; h9am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-4.30am Fri & Sat; W)

6LavabarinnCLUB

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DJs get this former illegal gentlemen's club pumping with house, R&B, electronica and pop.

(Lækjargata 6; h5pm-1am Thu, to 4.30am Fri & Sat)

Entertainment

3HúrraLIVE MUSIC

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Dark and raw, this large bar opens up its back room to make a concert venue, with live music or DJs most nights. Run by the same folks as Bravó, it has six beers on tap and happy hour runs till 10pm (beer/wine Ikr500/700).

(Tryggvagata 22; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 4.30am Fri & Sat; W)

3Iðnó TheatreTHEATRE

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Icelandic theatre, tending toward the comedic.

(%551 9181; www.idno.is; Vonarstræti 3)

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Local Life

Kolaportið Flea Market

Held in a huge industrial building by the harbour, the weekend Kolaportið Flea Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kolaportid.is; Tryggvagata 19; h11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is a Reykjavík institution. Don't expect much from the secondhand clothes and toys, just enjoy the experience. The food section sells traditional eats like rúgbrauð (geothermally baked rye bread), brauðterta (layered sandwich bread with mayonnaise-based fillings) and hákarl (fermented Greenland shark).

Shopping

7KirsuberjatréðARTS & CRAFTS

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This women’s art-and-design collective in an interesting 1882 former bookstore sells weird and wonderful fish-skin handbags, music boxes made from string, and, our favourite, beautiful coloured bowls made from radish slices. It's been around for twenty years and now has twelve designers.

(Cherry Tree; %562 8990; www.kirs.is; Vesturgata 4; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 4pm Sun)

7KraumARTS & CRAFTS

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The brainchild of a band of local artists, Kraum literally means ‘simmering’, like the island’s quaking earth and the inventive minds of its citizens. Expect a fascinating assortment of unique designer wares, like fish-skin apparel and driftwood furniture, on display in Reykjavík’s oldest house.

(www.kraum.is; Aðalstræti 10; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun)

7Iceland GiftstoreSOUVENIRS

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If you can see your way past the stuffed puffin in the window, you'll find one of the city's better souvenir shops, with loads of woollens, crafts and collectibles. It also has a Keflavík International Airport location.

(Rammagerðin; %535 6690; www.icelandgiftstore.com; Hafnarstræti 19; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)

7EymundssonBOOKS

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This big central bookshop has a superb choice of English-language books, newspapers, magazines and maps, along with a great cafe. A second branch can be found on Skólavörðustígur 11.

(www.eymundsson.is; Austurstræti 18; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)

7GagaCLOTHING

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Whacky knitted and felt gear from designer Gaga Skorrdal.

(%551 2306; www.gaga.is; Vesturgata 4; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

7KickstartCLOTHING

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This tiny but inviting men's store stocks ties, gloves, motorcycle gear and other manly accoutrements.

(%568 0809; www.kickstart.is; Vesturgata 12; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Old Harbour

Largely a service harbour until recently, the Old Harbour has blossomed into a hot spot for tourists, with several museums, volcano and Northern Lights films, and interesting eateries. Whale-watching and puffin-viewing trips depart from the pier, and, as boat bells ding, photo ops abound with views of the Harpa concert hall and snowcapped mountains beyond.

ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY LTD/ALAMY ©

The Neighbourhood in a Day

M Start your day with a whale-watching trip from the Old Harbour, cruising nearby waters in search of cetaceans, seabirds and open skies. Then have lunch at one of the area's good, casual restaurants, from the Walk the Plank crab slider trolley to rustic but excellent seafood joint Sægreifinn or hamburger hang-out Hamborgara Búllan.

R Grab a coffee at Café Haiti before heading on to the museum of your choice: Víkin Maritime Museum for nautical history, the Saga Museum for bloodthirsty saga simulations, Aurora Reykjavík for a recreation of the grand borealis, or Whales of Iceland for life-size reconstructions of the great beasts you spotted in the morning. The Cinema at Old Harbour Village No 2 is perfect for catching Icelandic nature films about volcanoes and the Northern Lights. An ice cream at Valdi's will give you a second wind.

N Wrap up your evening early with dinner at Forréttabarinn and cocktails across the street at chic Slippbarinn.

Top Experiences

Whale Watching

x  Best of Reykjavík

Cafes & Bars

Café Haiti

Slippbarinn

With Kids

Whale Watching

Whales of Iceland

Saga Museum

Aurora Reykjavík

Valdi’s

Getting There

g Bus Bus 14 runs all the way across town: from Kringlan shopping centre to Laugardalur park to Hlemmur bus station, the National Museum, Old Reykjavík and finally the Old Harbour. The Mýrargata stop is nearest for the whale-watching outfits and several restaurants, while Grandagarður is closest to the Víkin Maritime Museum and other sights.

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Top Sights

Whale Watching

Whale watching is one of Iceland’s most beloved pastimes and boats depart year-round to catch glimpses of these magnificent beasts as they wave their fins, spout and dive. Northern waters around Húsavík and Akureyri are famous, but Reykjavík visitors can hop a boat directly from the capital's Old Harbour. From here you'll cruise the frigid waters in search of minke, humpback and fin whales, though an occasional orca (killer whale) or even blue whale may be spotted. Trips are also tops for birdwatching.

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Old Harbour, north of Mýrargata

MEGAN WHITTAKER/ALAMY ©

y Top Tips

A Tour ticket prices start at around Ikr8500 for a two- to three-hour trip; Ikr4250 for kids.

A Tours generally run year-round with more departures in the warmest months (May–August), which are also prime viewing season.

A If you don't spot whales, many outfitters offer vouchers to come back and try again.

A Several companies also offer sea-angling (adult/child from Ikr11,500/5750) and puffin-viewing trips (from Ikr5000/2500), though you’ll often see puffins on small islets while whale watching.

A Trips are cancelled when sea conditions are foul.

5 Take a Break

The absolutely closest spot to grab a bite is fun crab-sandwich trolley, Walk the Plank, which sets up on the pier during whale-watching season.

Otherwise, hit Hamborgara Búllan for burgers, Sægreifinn for fish or Café Haiti for top coffee.

Don't Miss

Whales

The most common whales you'll spot on boats from Reykjavík are humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) and minke whales (Balaenoptera acutorostrata). The humpback is known for its curious nature and spectacular surface displays. You'll know the minke by its stream-lined, slender black body and white-striped pectoral fin. The minke also has a tendency to leap entirely out of the water.

Porpoises & Dolphins

Keep an eye out for tiny, shy harbour porpoises (Phocoena phocoena), which are easiest to spot in placid conditions. More gregarious white-beaked dolphins (Lagenorhynchus albirostris) often travel in larger pods, approach and accompany the boats, and can also be found in winter.

Puffins & Seabirds

The bird life in Iceland is abundant, especially during the warmest months when migrating species arrive to nest. You may see Arctic terns, gannets, guillemots and kittiwakes, among many more (depending on the season), but the stars of the show are undoubtedly the zippy, cutesy puffins.

Tour Operators

- Elding Adventures at Sea ( GOOGLE MAP ; %519 5000; www.whalewatching.is; Ægisgarður 5; hharbour kiosk 8am-9pm) Most established and ecofriendly outfit. Includes whale exhibition. Also angling and puffin-watching trips, as well as combo tours. Also runs the ferry to Viðey.

- Special Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %560 8800; www.specialtours.is; Ægisgarður 13; hharbour kiosk 8am-8pm) Small, fast boat used for sea angling and whale watching (20 minutes to reach the prime viewing spot). Also puffin and combo tours.

- Sea Safari ( GOOGLE MAP ; %861 3840; www.seasafari.is; Ægisgarður 9) Offes whale-watching (1½ hours; Ikr15,000) and puffin tours (one hour; Ikr5000) in a Zodiac.

Top Experiences

Whale Watching  D3

Experiences

1Víkin Maritime Museum  B2

2Saga Museum  A3

3Whales of Iceland  A1

4Aurora Reykjavík  B3

5Cinema at Old Harbour Village No 2  D4

5 Eating

6Sægreifinn  D4

7Forréttabarinn  C4

8Walk the Plank  D3

9Coocoo's Nest  C2

10Hamborgara Búllan  C4

6 Drinking

11Slippbarinn  C4

12Café Haiti  D4

7 Shopping

13Fabúla  D4

Experiences

1Víkin Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

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Based appropriately in a former fish-freezing plant, this small museum celebrates the country’s seafaring heritage, focusing on the trawlers that transformed Iceland’s economy. Your ticket also allows you aboard coastguard ship Óðínn by guided tour (11am, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm, reduced hours during winter, closed January and February). The boat is a veteran of the 1970s Cod Wars, when British and Icelandic fishermen came to blows over fishing rights in the North Atlantic.

(Víkin Sjóminjasafnið; %517 9400; www.sjominjasafn.is; Grandagarður 8; adult/child Ikr1200/free; h10am-5pm Jun–mid-Sep, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–May)

1Saga MuseumMUSEUM

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The endearingly bloodthirsty Saga Museum is where Icelandic history is brought to life by eerie silicon models and a multi-language soundtrack with thudding axes and hair-raising screams. Don’t be surprised if you see some of the characters wandering around town, as moulds were taken from Reykjavík residents (the owner's daughters are the Irish princess and the little slave gnawing a fish!).

(%511 1517; www.sagamuseum.is; Grandagarður 2; adult/child Ikr2000/800; h9am-6pm)

Recreation of the Battle of Orlygsstathir, Saga Museum

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Whales of IcelandMUSEUM

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Ever stroll beneath a blue whale? This brand-new museum houses full-sized models of the 23 whales found off Iceland's coast. The largest museum of this type in Europe, it also displays models of whale skeletons and has a cafe and gift shop.

(%571 0077; www.whalesoficeland.com; Fiskislóð 23-25; adult/child Ikr2800/1550; h10am-7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)

1Aurora ReykjavíkEXHIBITION

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Learn about the classical tales explaining the Northern Lights, and the scientific explanation, then watch a 35-minute surround-sound panoramic HD recreation of Icelandic auroras.

(Northern Lights Centre; %780 4500; www.aurorareykjavik.is; Grandagarður 2; adult/child Ikr1600/1000; h9am-9pm)

1Cinema at Old Harbour Village No 2FILM

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A tiny theatre perches in the top of one of the rehabbed Old Harbour warehouses. Nature films include volcanoes (Hekla, Eyjafjallajökull, Westmann Islands), the creation of Iceland, þingvellir and the Northern Lights, and are mostly shown in English with occasional German screenings. See schedule online.

(%899 7953; www.thecinema.is; Geirsgata 7b; adult/child Ikr1500/750)

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Local Life

Ice Cream!

Happy families flock to iconic Valdi's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %586 8088; www.valdis.is; Grandagarður 21; scoop Ikr425; h11.30am-11pm May-Aug; c) throughout summer. Take a number and join the crush waiting to choose a scoop from the huge array of homemade ice creams. Totally casual, totally fun.

Eating

5SægreifinnSEAFOOD €

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Sidle into this green harbour-side shack for the most famous lobster soup (Ikr1300) in the capital, or to choose from a fridge full of fresh fish skewers to be grilled on the spot. Though the original sea baron sold the restaurant a few years ago, the place retains a homey, laid-back feel.

(Seabaron; %553 1500; www.saegreifinn.is; Geirsgata 8; mains Ikr1350-1900; h11.30am-11pm)

5ForréttabarinnTAPAS €€

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Tapas restaurants are popular in the capital, and this hip joint near the harbour is a favourite for its new menu of creative plates like cod and pork belly with celery root purée. There is also an airy and relaxed bar area, with weathered wood tables and broad couches.

(Starter Bar; %517 1800; www.forrettabarinn.is; Nýlendugata 14, entrance from Mýrargata; plates Ikr1480-2250; h11.30am-10pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)

5Walk the PlankSEAFOOD €

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On decent-weather days and around whale-watching departures, this tiny food truck opens its window and dishes up yummy crab-cake sliders on the quay.

(Ægisgarður; mains Ikr1500-1900; h10am-8pm)

5Coocoo's NestCAFE €€

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Pop into this cool eatery tucked behind the Old Harbour for popular weekend brunches (11am to 4pm) paired with decadent cocktails (Ikr1800). Casual, small and groovy, with mozaic plywood tables. The menu changes, but it's always scrumptious.

(Grandagarður 23; mains Ikr1500-2700; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 10pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; W)

5Víkin CafeCAFE €

The Víkin Maritime Museum's on-site cafe offers relaxing views of the boat-filled harbour, and has a great sunny-weather terrace.

(Grandagarður 8; snacks Ikr800-1890)

5Hamborgara BúllanFAST FOOD €

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The Old Harbour’s outpost of burgerdom and Americana proffers savoury patties that are perennial local favourites. Russell Crowe was spotted here while filming in 2012.

(Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar; %511 1888; www.bullan.is; Geirsgata 1; mains Ikr730-1400; h11.30am-9pm; c)

Understand

Eating the Locals

Many restaurants and tour operators in Iceland tout their more unusual delicacies: whale (hvál/hvalur), fermented shark (hákarl) and puffin (lundi). Before you dig in, consider that what may have been sustainable for 325,000 Icelanders becomes taxing on species and delicate ecosystems when one million tourists per year get involved.

A 35% to 40% of Icelandic whale meat consumption is by tourists.

A 75% of Icelanders do not buy whale meat.

A 80% of the minke whale is thrown away after killing.

A Fin whales are classified as Endangered.

A Iceland’s Ministry of Industries and Innovation maintains the whale catch is sustainable, at less than 1% of local stock, despite international protest.

A The Greenland shark, which is used for hákarl, has a conservation status of Near Threatened.

A In 2003 there were an estimated eight million puffins in Iceland, in 2014 there were about five million – a 37% drop.

A At the time of research, Icelandic puffins were experiencing an enormous breeding failure in their largest colonies, in the Vestmannaeyjar.

A Find whale-free eateries at www.icewhale.is/whale-friendly-restaurants.

Drinking

6SlippbarinnCOCKTAIL BAR

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Jetsetters unite at this buzzy hotel, restaurant and bar at the Old Harbour. It's bedecked with vintage record players and chatting locals sipping some of the best cocktails in town.

(%560 8080; www.slippbarinn.is; Mýrargata 2; h11.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

6Café HaitiCAFE

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If you’re a coffee afficionado, this tiny cafe in the Old Harbour is the place for you. Owner Elda buys her beans from her home country Haiti, and roasts and grinds them on-site, producing what regulars swear are the best cups of coffee in the country.

(%588 8484; www.cafehaiti.is; Geirsgata 7c; h8am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Shopping

7FabúlaARTS & CRAFTS

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Whacky-wonderful statuettes, ceramics and paintings brighten up an old warehouse in the Old Harbour. It also offers a few items by Icelandic clothing and jewellery designers.

(%555 2503; Geirsgata 7; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Laugavegur & Skólavörðustígur

Reykjavík's main street for shopping, hanging out and people-watching is bustling, often-pedestrianised Laugavegur. The narrow, one-way lane and its side streets blossom with the capital's most interesting shops, cafes and bars. At its western end, its name changes to Bankastræti, then Austurstræti, and running uphill off Bankastræti at a jaunty diagonal, artists’ street Skólavörðustígur ends at spectacular modernist church, Hallgrímskirkja.

CHAD EHLERS/ALAMY ©

The Region in a Day

M Breakfast at Grái Kötturinn then be dazzled by the shiny surfaces and gorgeous interior of Harpa, before choosing among the neighbourhood's many museums. Hit the Icelandic Phallological Museum to see coolly curated penises before perusing top art at the Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir or at either of the (other) Jónsson museums: Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection or Einar Jónsson Museum.

R Get a bite to eat at delicious, organic Gló, then zip to the top of Hallgrímskirkja for views. If you're up for more art, head over to the excellent, small National Gallery of Iceland, by the lake. If you'd rather unwind, take a dip in the geothermal pools at the classic Sundhöllin.

N Be sure to reserve ahead for any of the area's top restaurants, which are some of the best in the country: Dill, Snaps, or Þrír Frakkar. Or kick off a late-night djammið party blow-out with casual eats at lively K-Bar or KEX. Quieter night? Take in an Icelandic flick at Bíó Paradís.

1  Top Sights

Hallgrímskirkja

l  Local Life

Djammið Nightlife

x  Best of Reykjavík

Eating

Dill

Þrír Frakkar

Gló

Ostabúðin

Grái Kötturinn

Kolabrautin

Shopping

Kiosk

KronKron

Handknitting Association of Iceland

Leynibuðin

Getting There

On Foot Within the neighbourhood it is by far easiest to walk, as many roads are one-way or pedestrianised, and distances are short.

g Bus Buses 1, 3, 6, 11, 12 and 13 run between the Hlemmur bus terminal at the eastern end of Laugavegur, along the waterfront road, Sæbraut, to Lækjartorg Square (the city's other bus terminal), before continuing onward.

1

Top Sights

Hallgrímskirkja

Reykjavík’s soaring white-concrete church, star of a thousand postcards, dominates the city skyline, and is visible from 20km away. The graceful church was named after poet Reverend Hallgrímur Pétursson (1614–74), who wrote Iceland’s most popular hymn book, Passion Hymns. The church’s size and radical design caused controversy, and its architect, Guðjón Samúelsson (1887–1950), never saw its completion – it took 41 years (1945–86) to build. The church offers great photo ops and thrilling views from its dizzying tower.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%510 1000; www.hallgrimskirkja.is; Skólavörðustígur; tower adult/child Ikr700/100; h9am-9pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun

NICOLAS KIPOURAX PAQUET/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Try for a local's pronunciation: Hallgrímskirkja is pronounced hatl-krims-kirk-ya.

A There are occasional rotating art exhibitions in the church's foyer.

A Check online for the schedule of organ and choral recitals during your visit.

5 Take a Break

In fair weather a sweet little soup wagon, Soup Car, sets up near the plaza in front of the church and serves up bowls of lamb stew or vegan soup. Or head down Skólavörðustígur to a plethora of eateries; try the classic Kaffi Mokka, one of Reykjavík's first coffee shops, for a light meal.

Don't Miss

Facade & Tower

The columns on either side of the church's signature 74.5m-high tower represent volcanic basalt, part of architect Guðjón Samúelsson's desire to create a national architectural style. Get a spectacular panorama of the city by taking an elevator trip up the tower to the viewing area.

Organ

In contrast to the high drama outside, the Lutheran church’s interior is quite plain. The most eye-catching feature is the vast, gleaming 5275-pipe organ, installed in 1992. It was made in Germany by Johannes Klais Orgelbau and individuals sponsored each of the pipes; their names are inscribed on them. Towards the altar, you'll find the quaint older organ, still in use, too.

Concerts & Services

From mid-June to mid-August, hear choral concerts (www.scholacantorum.is; admission Ikr2000) at noon on Wednesdays, and organ recitals (www.listvinafelag.is) at noon on Saturdays (Ikr2000) and some Thursdays (Ikr1700), and on Sundays at 5pm (admission Ikr2500). Services are held on Sundays at 11am, with small services on Wednesdays at 8am. There is an English service the last Sunday of the month at 2pm.

Leifur Eiríksson Statue

Out front, gazing proudly into the distance is a statue of the Viking Leifur Eiríksson, the first European to discover America. A present from the USA on the 1000th anniversary of the Alþingi (parliament) in 1930, it was designed by Alexander Stirling Calder (1870–1945), the father of the perhaps more famous, modern mobilist and sculptor Alexander Calder (1898–1976).

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Top Tip

How to Donate to the Icelandic Phallological Museum

The acquisition of Páll Arason's 'specimen' by the Icelandic Phallological Museum was the subject of the oddball documentary, The Final Member (2012). Five other donors-in-waiting have already promised to bequeath their manhood (signed contracts are mounted on the wall). Interested? Get in line.

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Local Life

Djammið Nightlife

Reykjavík is renowned for its wild, wonderful party scene. Called djammið (meaning going out on the town), the high-spirited nightlife is at its roaringest on weekends: many cafes and bistros transform into raucous beer-soaked bars, joining the dedicated pubs and clubs. But it’s not the quantity of drinking dens that makes Reykjavík’s nightlife special – it’s the crowd's upbeat energy.

1 Warming Up

As any good pub crawler knows, you gotta warm up so you don't break something. Start the night at Kaldi ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kaldibar.is; Laugavegur 20b; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) while you're still in the mood to discern quality beer. Effortlessly cool with mismatched seats and teal banquettes, plus a popular smoking courtyard, Kaldi carries the full range of its own microbrews, not available elsewhere. Anyone can play the piano.

2 The Beautiful People

The old house with the London Underground symbol over the door contains one of Reykjavík’s coolest bars: Kaffibarinn ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kaffibarinn.is; Bergstaðastræti 1; h2pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 4.30am Fri & Sat). It had a starring role in the cult movie 101 Reykjavík (2000), and at weekends you may need a famous face or a battering ram to get in, it's so packed.

3 Cool Cats

If you couldn't get into Kaffibarinn, or you're just ready to move on, head down to cool, arty Boston ( GOOGLE MAP ; %577 3200; Laugavegur 28b; h4pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat). You'll find it up through a doorway on Laugavegur that leads to this laid-back lounge where hip locals hang, and where DJs spin from time to time.

4 Rock Out!

Or, go next door for beer, beards and the odd flying bottle…atmospheric Dillon ( GOOGLE MAP ; %578 2424; Laugavegur 30; h2pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) is a RRRRROCK pub with a great beer garden. Frequent concerts hit its tiny corner stage. Get dark and get sweaty.

5 The Shank of the Evening

By now you should be feeling the djammið vibe; it's a perfect time to simply stroll packed Laugavegur, people-watching and striking up conversations. This may be the moment where you toss guidebook routes and just roll with the locals: pubs and late-night dives abound throughout the centre.

6 Time to Dance

Ostensibly a queer bar, Kiki ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kiki.is; Laugavegur 22; h11pm-4.30am Fri & Sat) is also the place to go get your dance on, since much of Reykjavík's nightlife centres on the booze, not the groove. It's only open on weekends, but if you can squeeze beneath the flamingo sign and beyond the rainbow-striped tin siding, you'll find one of Reykjavík's best dance parties.

7 Staggering Home

The atmosphere at one of Reykjavík's oldest joints, Prikið ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 2866; www.prikid.is; Bankastræti 12; h8am-1am Mon-Thu, to 4.30am Fri, 11am-4.30am Sat, 11am-1am Sun), falls somewhere between diner and saloon, though it can also get dancey in the wee hours. If you're still standing and you’re longing for some greasy eats before heading home, join the locals tucking into burgers or the popular next-day ‘hangover killer’ breakfast. Or grab a great freshly made pizza slice at The Deli ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.deli.is; Bankastræti 14; slices Ikr400; h10am-10pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 7am Fri & Sat), just up the block.

Top Experiences

Hallgrímskirkja  C4

Experiences

1Harpa  B1

2Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir  E4

3National Gallery of Iceland  A3

4Icelandic Phallological Museum  E4

5Kling & Bang  C2

6Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection  A4

7Einar Jónsson Museum  C4

8Culture House  B2

9Sundhöllin  D4

10Volcano Show  A4

11Sun-Craft  D2

5 Eating

12Dill  B2

Gló  B3

13Snaps  B3

14K-Bar  D3

15Þrír Frakkar  B4

Bakarí Sandholt  C3

16Vegamót  B3

17Kolabrautin  B1

18Grænn Kostur  B3

19Soup Car  C4

20Sushisamba  B2

6 Drinking

21KEX Bar  D3

22Babalú  B3

23Reykjavík Roasters  C3

Kaffi Mokka  B2

24Bravó  B3

25C is for Cookie  B3

26Kaffifélagið  B2

27Lebowski Bar  B3

28Bast  B2

3 Entertainment

29Bíó Paradís  C3

30Café Rosenberg  C2

31National Theatre  B2

7 Shopping

32Kiosk  D3

33KronKron  D3

34Mál og Menning  B3

35Handknitting Association of Iceland  B3

36Leynibuðin  C3

37Skúma Skot  C3

38Spark  B3

39Álafoss  B2

40Geysir  B3

41Aurum  B2

42Viking  B2

43Volcano  C3

44Ófeigur Björnsson  B2

45Annaranna  D3

Experiences

1HarpaCULTURAL BUILDING

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With its ever-changing facets glistening on the water's edge, Reykjavík’s sparkling Harpa concert hall and cultural centre is a beauty to behold. In addition to a season of top-notch shows (some free), it’s worth stopping by to explore the shimmering interior with harbour vistas, or take a 45-minute tour of the hall (Ikr1500; 9am, 11am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm daily June to August, 3.30pm Monday to Friday, 11am & 3.30pm Saturday and Sunday September to May).

(%box office 528 5050; www.harpa.is; Austurbakki 2; hbox office 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

1Reykjavík Art Museum – KjarvalsstaðirART MUSEUM

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The angular glass-and-wood Kjarvalsstaðir, which looks out onto Miklatún Park ( GOOGLE MAP ), is named for Jóhannes Kjarval (1885–1972), one of Iceland’s most popular classical artists. He was a fisherman until his crew paid for him to study at the Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen, and his wonderfully evocative landscapes share space alongside changing installations of mostly Icelandic 20th-century paintings.

(%517 1290; www.artmuseum.is; Flókagata, Miklatún Park; adult/child Ikr1300/free; h10am-5pm)

1National Gallery of IcelandMUSEUM

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This pretty stack of marble atriums and spacious galleries overlooking Tjörnin offers ever-changing exhibits drawn from the 10,000-piece collection. The museum can only exhibit a small sample at any time; shows range from 19th- and 20th-century paintings by Iceland’s favourite sons and daughters (including Jóhannes Kjarval and Nína Sæmundsson) to sculptures by Sigurjón Ólafsson and others. The museum ticket also covers entry to the Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection and Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum.

(Listasafn Íslands; www.listasafn.is; Fríkirkjuvegur 7; adult/child Ikr1000/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Sep-May)

1Icelandic Phallological MuseumMUSEUM

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Oh, the jokes are endless here, but though this unique museum houses a huge collection of penises, it's actually very well done. From pickled pickles to petrified wood, there are 283 different members on display, representing all Icelandic mammals and beyond. Featured items include contributions from sperm whales and a polar bear, minuscule mouse bits, silver castings of each member of the Icelandic handball team and a single human sample – from deceased mountaineer Páll Arason.

(Hið Íslenzka Reðasafn; %561 6663; www.phallus.is; Laugavegur 116; adult/child Ikr1250/free; h10am-6pm)

1Kling & BangGALLERY

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Perennially cutting-edge young artists’ exhibition space is a favourite with locals.

(%696 2209; www.this.is/klingogbang; Hverfisgata 42; h2-6pm Thu-Sun)

1Ásgrímur Jónsson CollectionART MUSEUM

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Iceland's first professional painter, Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876–1958), was the son of a farmer. He lived and worked here, and you can visit his former atelier to see his work incorporating folk tales and Icelandic nature.

(%515 9625; www.listasafn.is; Bergstaðastræti 74; adult/child Ikr1000/free; h2-5pm Tue, Thu & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 2-5pm Sun mid-Sep–Nov & Feb–mid-May)

1Einar Jónsson MuseumART MUSEUM

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Einar Jónsson (1874–1954) is one of Iceland’s foremost sculptors, famous for intense symbolist works. Chiselled representations of Hope, Earth and Death burst from basalt cliffs, weep over naked women and slay dragons. Jónsson designed the building, which was built between 1916 and 1923, when this empty hill was the outskirts of town. It also contains his austere penthouse flat and studio, with views over the city.

The sculpture garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; Freyjugata) behind the museum contains 26 bronzes, in the shadow of Hallgrímskirkja.

(%561 3797; www.lej.is; Eriksgata; adult/child Ikr1000/free; h1-5pm Tue-Sun Jun–mid-Sep, 1-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Nov & Feb-May)

1Culture HouseART MUSEUM

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At the time of writing, this museum was being reimagined as a collaboration between the National Museum, National Gallery and four other organisations as a study of the artistic heritage of Iceland from Settlement to today. Slated to open by early 2015.

(Þjóðmenningarhúsið; www.thjodminjasafn.is; Hverfisgata 15; adult/child Ikr1000/free; h11am-5pm)

1SundhöllinGEOTHERMAL POOL, HOT-POT

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Reykjavík’s oldest swimming pool (1937), designed in art-deco style by architect Guðjón Samúelsson, is smack in the centre and offers the only indoor pool within the city, plus Hallgrímskirkja views from the decks.

(%411 5350; Barónsstígur 16; h6.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 8am-4pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; c)

1Volcano ShowFILM

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Eccentric eruption-chaser Villi Knudsen is the cinematographer and presenter of this film show in a little theatre in an outbuilding on a residential street (not to be confused with Volcano House). Some are captivated by Villi and his films about 50 years of Icelandic volcanoes (eg images of the town of Heimaey being crushed by molten lava), although some footage is a bit old and wobbly, so it's not for everyone.

(Red Rock Cinema; %845 9548; Hellusund 6a; admission Ikr1500; htwice daily)

1Sun-CraftMONUMENT

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Reykjavík is littered with fascinating sculptures, but it’s Jón Gunnar Árnason’s ship-like Sun-Craft sculpture that seems to catch visitors’ imaginations. Scooping in a skeletal arc along the seaside, it offers a photo op with snowcapped mountains in the distance.

(Sæbraut)

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Top Tip

Three for the Price of One

A The Reykjavík Art Museum ticket covers all three of its sites.

A The National Gallery ticket is also good at the nearby Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection, and further-afield Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum.

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Local Life

Design, Art & Craft

Inspired by the amazing local art and design shops? Get involved with graphic design, cooking, arts, crafts, music…you name it! Creative Iceland (www.creativeiceland.is) hooks you up with local creative people offering workshops in their art or craft. If you're a knitter, the half-day knitting workshops at Icelandic Culture and Craft Workshops (%0869 9913; www.cultureandcraft.com; courses from Ikr13,900) use Icelandic wool. Iceland Design Centre (Hönnunarmiðstöð; GOOGLE MAP ; %771 2200; www.icelanddesign.is; Vonarstræti 4b) lists more artists, designers and special events.

Eating

5DillSCANDINAVIAN €€€

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Top ‘New Nordic’ cuisine is the major drawcard at this elegant yet simple bistro. The focus is very much on the food – locally sourced produce served as a parade of courses. The owners are friends with the famous Noma clan, and have drawn much inspiration from the celebrated Copenhagen restaurant. Popular with locals and visitors alike, a reservation is a must.

(%552 1522; www.dillrestaurant.is; Hverfisgata 12; 3-course meal from Ikr8100; h7-10pm Wed-Sat)

5GlóORGANIC, VEGETARIAN €

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Join the cool cats in this upstairs, airy restaurant serving fresh, large daily specials loaded with Asian-influenced herbs and spices. Though not exclusively vegetarian, it's a wonderland of raw and organic foods with your choice from a broad bar of elaborate salads, from root veggies to Greek. It also has branches in Laugardalur ( GOOGLE MAP ; %553 1111; Engjateigur 19; mains Ikr1700-2500; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) and Hafnarfjörður ( GOOGLE MAP ; %553 1111; www.glo.is; Strandgata 34; mains Ikr1700-2500; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun).

(%553 1111; www.glo.is; Laugavegur 20b; mains Ikr1700-2500; h11am-9pm; Wv)

5SnapsFRENCH €€

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Reserve ahead for this French bistro that's a mega-hit with locals. Snaps’ secret is simple: serve scrumptious seafood and classic bistro mains – think steak or moules-frites (mussels and fries) – at surprisingly decent prices. Lunch specials (11.30am to 2pm; Ikr1890) and scrummy brunches (11.30am to 4pm Saturday and Sunday; Ikr900 to Ikr3300) are a big draw, too. Seats fill a lively glassed-in porch and have views of the open kitchen.

(%511 6677; www2.snaps.is; Þórsgata 1; dinner mains Ikr3000-4000; h11.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

5K-BarFUSION €€

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Leather banquettes and hammered copper tables at this cool bar-restaurant fill up with lively locals thrilled to dig into creative California-Korean style cuisine from tempura cod sliders to BBQ beef. Cocktails are delish, too, as are local tap beers (Ikr950 to Ikr1400). Brunchy foods like eggs Benedict (Ikr1890) are served until 4pm.

(%571 6666; Laugavegur 74; mains lunch Ikr1600-1800, dinner Ikr2000-3000; h7.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat)

5Þrír FrakkarICELANDIC, SEAFOOD €€

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Owner-chef Úlfar Eysteinsson has built up a consistently excellent reputation at this snug little restaurant – apparently a favourite of Jamie Oliver’s. Specialities range throughout the aquatic world from salt cod and halibut to plokkfiskur (fish stew) with black bread. Non-fish items run toward guillemot, horse, lamb and whale.

(%552 3939; www.3frakkar.com; Baldursgata 14; mains Ikr3200-5300; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun)

5Bakarí SandholtBAKERY €

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Reykjavík’s favourite bakery, up from the Volcano design shop, is usually crammed with folks hoovering up the generous assortment of fresh baguettes, croissants, pastries and sandwiches. The soup of the day (Ikr1300) comes with delicious sourdough bread.

(%551 3524; www.sandholt.is; Laugavegur 36; mains Ikr250-980; h6.30am-9pm)

5VegamótINTERNATIONAL €€

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A long-running bistro-bar-club, with a name that means 'crossroads', this is still a trendy place to eat, drink, see and be seen at night (it's favoured by families during the day). The ‘global’ menu ranges all over: from Mexican salad to Louisiana chicken. Weekend brunches (Ikr2000 to Ikr2500) are a hit, too.

(%511 3040; www.vegamot.is; Vegamótastígur 4; mains Ikr2400-4000; h11.30am-1am Mon-Thu, 11am-4am Fri & Sat, noon-1am Sun; W)

5KolabrautinITALIAN €€

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Creatively using Icelandic ingredients with Mediterranean techniques high up on the top of the Harpa concert hall. You can start with a splashy cocktail before digging into spaghetti with local langoustine, or wood-roasted catfish with parmesan and chilli.

(%519 9700; www.kolabrautin.is; Austurbakki 2, Harpa; mains Ikr3400-5900; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun)

5Grænn KosturVEGETARIAN €

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Tucked away in a small shopping arcade behind Skólavörðustígur, this friendly little cafe serves great-tasting veggie daily specials and raw desserts.

(%552 2028; www.graennkostur.is; Skólavörðustígur 8b; mains Ikr1200-1900; h11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun; v)

5Soup CarSOUP €

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This friendly food truck at the foot of Hallgrímskirkja keeps it simple: delicious spicy lamb stew or 'vegan power soup' with fresh bread. Cheerfully painted tables dot the sidewalk for those who want to stick around while they sup. Hours are weather-dependent.

(Frakkastígur; soup Ikr690-1000; h11.15am-7pm Jun-Sep)

5SushisambaFUSION €€€

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The reported location of TomKat’s last dinner as a married couple (you can apparently request to sit at their table if you book ahead), Sushisamba puts an international spin on straight-up sushi, alongside meat and seafood mains.

(%568 6600; www.sushisamba.is; Þingholtsstræti 5; mains Ikr1900-6000, multicourse menus Ikr7000-9000; h5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

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Local Life

Brunch with Björk

Blink and you'll miss Grái Kötturinn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 1544; Hverfisgata 16a; mains Ikr1000-2500; h7.15am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun), a tiny six-table cafe (a favourite of Björk’s). It looks like a cross between an eccentric bookshop and an art gallery, and serves delicious breakfasts of toast, bagels, pancakes, or bacon and eggs served on thick, buttery slabs of freshly baked bread.

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Local Life

The Cheese Shop

It doesn't get more local than this. Head to gourmet cheese shop and deli Ostabúðin (Cheese Shop; GOOGLE MAP ; %562 2772; Skólavörðustígur 8; mains Ikr1040-1540; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 6.30pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) on Monday to Friday from 11.30am to 1.30pm (only those hours!) and you can sit in the back room for the friendly owner's catch of the day, cooked up in either a large portion or a huge portion, accompanied by homemade bread. You can also pick up other local goods, such as terrines and duck confit, on the way out.

Drinking

6KEX BarBAR

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Believe it or not, locals flock to this hostel bar-restaurant (mains Ikr1700 to Ikr2500) in an old cookie factory (kex means 'cookie') with broad windows facing the sea, an inner courtyard and loads of happy hipsters. The vibe is 1920s Vegas, with saloon doors, an old-school barber station, scuffed floors and happy chatter.

(www.kexhostel.is; Skúlagata 28; hnoon-11pm; W)

6BabalúCAFE

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This mellow cafe feels like the den of one of your eccentric friends. Books and board games abound, and the baked goods, terraces and comfy couches are the main draw. Paninis are just okay, so fill up instead on homemade chocolate cake and apple crumble.

(%555 8845; Skólavörðustígur 22a; h8am-9pm; W)

6Reykjavík RoastersCAFE

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These folks take their coffee seriously. This tiny hipster joint is easily spotted on warm days with its smattering of wooden tables and potato sacks dropped throughout the paved square. Swig a perfect latte with a flaky croissant.

(www.reykjavikroasters.is; Kárastígur 1; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun)

6Kaffi MokkaCAFE

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The decor at Reykjavík’s oldest coffee shop, next door to Ófeigur Björnsson, has changed little since the 1950s, and its original mosaic pillars and copper lights either look retro-cool or dead tatty, depending on your mood. The mixed clientele – from older folks to tourists to trendy artists – dig the selection of sandwiches, cakes and waffles.

(%552 1174; www.mokka.is; Skólavörðustígur 3a; h9am-6.30pm)

6BravóBAR

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Friendly, knowledgeable bartenders, a laid-back corner-bar vibe with great people-watching, cool tunes on the sound system and happy hour (5pm to 9pm) draught local beers for Ikr500 – what's not to love?

(Laugavegur 22; h6.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 4.30am Fri & Sat; W)

6C is for CookieCAFE

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Named in honour of Cookie Monster from Sesame Street, this cheerful spot has super coffee, plus great homemade cakes, salad, soup and grilled sandwiches.

(Týsgata 8; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

6KaffifélagiðCAFE

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A popular hole-in-the-wall for a quick cuppa on the run, with a couple of outdoor tables, too.

(Skólavörðustígur 10; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

Beer garden along Laugavegur

ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY ©

6Lebowski BarBAR

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Named after the eponymous ‘Dude’ of moviedom, the grungy Lebowski Bar is smack in the middle of the action with Americana smothering the walls, and loads of white Russians (from Ikr1500) – a favourite from the film.

(Laugavegur 20a; h11.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

6BastBAR

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A young, happy post-work crowd fills this warehouse-like space hosting good DJs.

(%519 7579; www.bast.is; Hverfisgata 20; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

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Local Life

Casual Grub

Visit the local pub Vitabar ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bergþórugata 21; mains Ikr900-1600; h11.30am-11pm, bar to 1am or 2am Fri & Sat), on a quiet residential street, for delicious hamburgers and hand-cut fries. Perfect with a pint. Noodle Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %5513199; Skólavörðustígur 21a; mains Ikr1190; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun) is a perennial favourite for no-frills noodle soups of ambiguously Asian origin.

There's no sign, but those in the know come to Hverfisgata 12 ( GOOGLE MAP ; %437 0203; Hverfisgata 12; pizzas Ikr2100-2800; h11.30am-11pm; c), in a cream-coloured converted corner house with fabulous family-style ambience, for some of the city's best pizzas.

Understand

Partying in Reykjavík

Reykjavík's renowned djammið, should not be confused with the countryside rúntur, which involves Icelandic youth driving around their town in one big automotive party. For a tamer version of djammið you could say pöbbarölt meaning 'pub stroll'.

Djammið Particulars

The action is concentrated near Laugavegur and Austurstræti. Places stay open until 1am Sunday to Thursday (4am or 5am on Friday and Saturday). You’ll pay Ikr800 to Ikr1200 per pint of beer, and cocktails are Ikr1800 to Ikr2600. Some venues have cover charges (about Ikr1000) after midnight; many have early happy hours saving Ikr500 to Ikr700 per beer. Download smartphone Reykjavík Appy Hour app, and check Grapevine (www.grapevine.is) for latest listings.

Thanks to the high price of alcohol, things generally don’t get going until late. Icelanders brave the melee at government alcohol store Vínbúðin ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinbudin.is; Austurstræti 10a; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 7pm Fri), then toddle home for a prepub party.

Local Liquors

A Brennivín (http://brennivin.com) Caraway-flavoured 'black death' schnapps, nicely neon-green (80 proof).

A Opal Flavoured vodka in several menthol and liquorice varieties (52 proof); also a series of candies.

A Flóki Whisky (www.flokiwhisky.is; Reykjavík) Icelandic single malt whisky.

A 64° Reykjavík Distillery (www.reykjavikdistillery.is) Micro-distillery producing Katla vodka, aquavit, herbal liqueurs and schnapps – think juniper or blueberry.

A Reyka Vodka (www.reyka.com) Iceland's first distillery, in Borgarnes, with crystalline vodka.

Beer!

Egils, Gull, Thule and Viking are the most common beers (typically lagers) in Iceland. But craft breweries are taking the scene by storm.

A Borg Brugghús (www.borgbrugghus.is) Award-winning craft brewery with scrumptious beers from Bríó pilsner to Garún stout. Sheep-dung-smoked IPA Fenrir is an acquired taste.

A Einstök Brewing Company (www.einstokbeer.com) Akureyri-based craft brewery with a fab Viking label and equally distinctive Icelandic Pale Ale, among other ales and porters.

A Bruggsmiðjan - Kaldi (Kaldi Beer; %466 2505; www.bruggsmidjan.is; Öldugötu 22, Árskógssandur; tour Ikr1500; htours by appointment) Produced using Czech techniques. Stop by their pub, Kaldi, for seasonal draught beers available nowhere else.

A Steðji Brugghús (%896 5001; www.stedji.com; tours Ikr1500; htours by appointment) Family-run brewhouse near Borgarnes: from strawberry beer to lager and seasonal beers.

A Ölvisholt Brugghús (www.brugghus.is) Microbrews from south Iceland, including eye-catching Lava beer.

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Local Life

The Cafe Scene

The city’s ratio of coffeehouses to citizens is staggering. These low-key hang-outs crank up the intensity after hours, when tea is swapped for tipples. Accidental hipsters sporting well-worn lopapeysur (Icelandic woollen sweaters) hang in places like Tiú Droppar (Ten Drops; GOOGLE MAP ; %551 9380; Laugavegur 27; h9am-1am Mon-Thu, 10am-1am Sat & Sun; W). One of those quintessential Reykjavík cafes, it's in a cosy teapot-lined basement, and serves waffles, brunches (Ikr640 to Ikr990) and sandwiches, then in the evenings morphs into a wine bar with occasional live music. It's said that the Sunday-night pianist can play anything by ear.

Entertainment

3Bíó ParadísCINEMA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This totally cool cinema, decked out in movie posters and vintage officeware, screens specially curated Icelandic films with English subititles. It's a chance to see movies that you may not find elsewhere. Plus there's a happy hour from 5pm to 7.30pm.

(www.bioparadis.is; Hverfisgata 54; adult Ikr1600; W)

3Café RosenbergLIVE MUSIC

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This big, book-lined storefront, with broad-paned windows looking onto the street, is dotted with couches and cocktail tables, and hosts all manner of live acts, from local singer-songwriters to jazz groups.

(%551 2442; Klapparstígur 25-27; h3pm-1am Mon-Thu, 4pm-2am Fri & Sat)

3National TheatreTHEATRE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The National Theatre has three separate stages and puts on plays, musicals and operas, from modern Icelandic works to Shakespeare.

(Þjóðleikhúsið; %551 1200; www.leikhusid.is; Hverfisgata 19; hclosed Jul)

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Local Life

Outdoors Outfitters

Iceland’s premier outdoor-clothing company 66° North ( GOOGLE MAP ; %535 6680; www.66north.is; Bankastræti 5; h9am-10pm) began by making all-weather wear for Arctic fishermen. This metamorphosed into costly, fashionable streetwear: jackets, fleeces, hats and gloves.

If you're looking to outfit for hiking or camping, your best bet is Gangleri Outfitters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %583 2222; www.outfitters.is; Hverfisgata 82; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun), with camping gear sales and rentals: tents, sleeping bags, stoves, backpacks, boots, climbing gear, GPS, etc. Fjallakofinn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %510 9505; www.fjallakofinn.is; Laugavegur 11; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun) offers (pricey) brand-name camping and climbing gear, GoPros and more; plus equipment rental.

Shopping

7KioskCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This wonderful designers' cooperative is lined with creative women's fashion in a glass-fronted boutique. Designers take turns (wo)manning the store.

(%445 3269; Laugavegur 65; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 1-4pm Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May)

7KronKronCLOTHING, SHOES

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This is where Reykjavík goes high fashion, with the likes of Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood. But we really enjoy the Scandinavian designers (including Kron by KronKron) offering silk dresses, knit capes, scarves and even wool underwear. The handmade shoes are off the charts; also sold down the street at Kron ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 8388; www.kron.is; Laugavegur 48; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)).

(%562 8388; www.kronkron.com; Laugavegur 63b; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

7Mál og MenningBOOKS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Friendly, popular and well-stocked independent bookshop carries great English-language books for getting under the skin of Iceland. Check out Thermal Pools in Iceland by Jón G Snæland and Þóra Sigurbjörnsdóttir; you can browse it in the lively cafe. Also sells CDs, games and newspapers.

(%580 5000; Laugavegur 18; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat)

7Handknitting Association of IcelandCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Traditional handmade hats, socks and sweaters are sold at this knitting collective, or you can buy yarn, needles and knitting patterns and do it yourself. The association's smaller branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %562 1890; Laugavegur 53b; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri. 10am-5pm Sat) sells made-up items only.

(Handprjónasamband Íslands; %552 1890; www.handknit.is; Skólavörðustígur 19; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

7LeynibuðinCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

A consortium of young designers, Leynibuðin is a veritable minimarket of locally crafted apparel. Items border on hipster and grunge – it’s a great introduction to the city’s made-at-home trend.

(www.leynibudin.is; Laugavegur 55; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri)

7Skúma SkotARTS & CRAFTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Nine designers create unique handmade porcelain items, women's and kids' clothing, paintings and cards. It's in a tiny house behind the Booking Lounge travel agency.

(%663 1013; Laugavegur 23; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)

7SparkARTS & CRAFTS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This gallery and shop has a rotating selection of unique local designers. Expect art and knitwear, and look out for the fishbone model-making kit!

(%552 2656; www.sparkdesignspace.com; Klapparstígur 33; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)

7ÁlafossCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Loads of hand- or machine-made lopapeysur (Icelandic woollen sweaters), and other wool products. The outlet store (%566 6303; www.alafoss.is; Álafossvegur 23, Mosfellsbær; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) in Mosfellsbær also sells yarn and needles.

(%562 6303; www.alafoss.is; Laugavegur 8; h9am-10pm)

7GeysirCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

For traditional Icelandic goods, Geysir boasts an elegant selection of sweaters, blankets, and men's and women's clothes, shoes and bags.

(%519 6000; www.geysir.com; Skólavörðustígur 16; h10am-10pm)

7AurumJEWELLERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Guðbjörg at Aurum is one of Reykjavík's more interesting designers; her whisper-thin silver jewellery is sophisticated stuff, its shapes often inspired by leaves and flowers.

(%551 2770; Bankastræti 4; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat)

7VikingSOUVENIRS

MAP GOOGLE MAP

You can't miss this crammed souvenir shop with giant trolls out front and tourists thronging through the trinket-filled store. Is also has a branch at Hafnarstræti 1.

(www.theviking.is; Laugavegur 1; h9am-10pm)

7VolcanoCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This design shop focuses on women's fashion, playing with textures and creating an interesting layered feel. Everything is locally made and designed with all ages and shapes in mind.

(%588 0100; www.volcanodesign.is; Laugavegur 40; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

7Ófeigur BjörnssonCLOTHING, JEWELLERY

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Ófeigur Björnsson and other local goldsmiths make jewellery with lava and other natural materials. Hildur Bolladóttir is a master dressmaker and also shows modern bags and felted hats. There's an art gallery upstairs.

(%551 1161; www.ofeigur.is; Skólavörðustígur 5; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)

7AnnarannaCLOTHING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This new boutique carries high-quality, youthful clothes and accessories in a bright store on Reykjavík's main shopping street.

(%551 6565; www.annaranna.is; Laugavegur 77; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

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Top Tip

Shopping Icelandic Style

A Reykjavík’s vibrant design culture makes for great shopping: from sleek, fish-skin purses and knitted lopapeysur to unique music or lip-smacking Icelandic schnapps brennivín.

A Laugavegur is the most dense shopping street. You'll find interesting shops all over town, but fashion concentrates near the Frakkastígur and Vitastígur end of Laugavegur.

A Skólavörðustígur is strong for arts and jewellery. Bankastræti and Austurstræti have many touristy shops.

A Don’t forget – all visitors are eligible for a 15% tax refund on their shopping, under certain conditions, (see Click here).

Understand

Icelandic Pop

Iceland’s pop music scene is one of its great gifts to the world. Internationally famous Icelandic musicians include (of course) Björk and her former band, the Sugarcubes. Sigur Rós followed Björk to stardom; their concert movie Heima (2007) is a must-see. Indie-folk Of Monsters and Men stormed the US charts in 2011 with My Head is an Animal. Most lately Ásgeir had a breakout hit with In the Silence (2014).

Reykjavík’s flourishing music landscape is constantly changing – visit www.icelandmusic.is and www.grapevine.is for news and listings. Just a few examples of local groups include Seabear, an indie-folk band, which spawned top acts like Sin Fang (Flowers; 2013) and Sóley (We Sink; 2012). Árstíðir record minimalist indie-folk, and had a 2013 viral YouTube hit when they sang a 13th-century Icelandic hymn in a train station. GusGus, a pop-electronica act, opened for Justin Timberlake at his sold-out 2014 Reykjavík concert. Other local bands include FM Belfast (electronica) and múm (experimental electronica mixed with traditional instruments).

If your visit coincides with one of Iceland’s many music festivals, go!

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Local Life

Icelandic Music

The deep den of musical goodness that is Lucky Records ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 1195; www.luckyrecords.is; Rauðarárstígur 10; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat & Sun) holds loads of modern Icelandic music, but plenty of vintage vinyl too. The huge collection spans from hip hop to jazz and electronica, and it has occasional live music.

12 Tónar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.12tonar.is; Skolavörðustígur 15; h10am-8pm) is responsible for launching some of Iceland’s favourite bands. The three-floor shop is a very cool place to hang out, and you can listen to CDs, drink coffee and sometimes catch a live performance. There's a new branch in Harpa, too.

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Local Life

Laugardalur

The verdant park at Laugardalur, 4km east of the centre, was once the main source of Reykjavík’s hot water: Laugardalur means ‘Hot Springs Valley', and you'll still find relics from the old wash house. Laugardalur is a favourite of locals for its huge geothermal swimming complex, spa, arenas, skating rink, botanical gardens, cafe, and kids' zoo and entertainment park. Nearby are top museums and a farmers market.

Getting There

g 2, 14, 15, 17 and 19 pass 200m from Laugardalur park; 14 is closest to the pool.

g 5 serves the waterfront and Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum.

1 Local Art

Visit Ásmundur Sveinsson's playful sculptures at Reykjavík Art Museum's Ásmundarsafn (Ásmundur Sveinsson Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %553 2155; www.artmuseum.is; Sigtún; adult/child Ikr1300/free; h10am-5pm May-Sep, 1-5pm Oct-Apr; g2, 14, 15, 17 or 19). Monumental concrete creations fill the garden, while inside are works in wood, clay and metals, some of them mobile. Visit the dome: acoustics create the museum's strict 'must-sing policy'.

2 Hot Springs

Reykjavík’s naturally hot water is the heart of the city’s social life; children play, teenagers flirt, and everyone catches up on the latest gossip at the baths. Laugardalslaug ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sundlaugavegur 30a, Laugardalur; adult/child Ikr600/130, suit/towel rental Ikr800/550; h6.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; c) has the largest, best facilities: Olympic-sized pools, seven hot-pots, saltwater tub, steam bath and curling 86m water slide.

3 Workout & Pampering

Super-duper Laugar Spa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %553 0000; www.laugarspa.is; Sundlaugavegur 30a, Laugardalur; day pass Ikr4990; h6am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, to 8pm Sun) offers six themed saunas and steam rooms; a sea water tub; a vast, well-equipped gym; a cafe; fitness classes; and beauty and massage clinics with detox wraps, facials and hot-stone therapies. The spa is 18+ and includes access to Laugardalslaug.

4 Gourmet Gardens

The Reykjavík Botanic Gardens (Grasagarður; GOOGLE MAP ; www.grasagardur.is; Laugardalur; h10am-10pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr) contain over 5000 varieties of sub-Arctic plant species, colourful seasonal flowers and bird life (particularly grey geese). Wonderful summer Café Flóra (Flóran; GOOGLE MAP ; %553 8872; www.floran.is; Botanic Gardens; cakes Ikr850, mains Ikr950-2500; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug; v) offers sun-dappled tables and wholesome local ingredients, some grown in the gardens!

5 Family Fun

The Reykjavík Zoo & Family Park (Fjölskyldu og Húsdýragarðurinn; GOOGLE MAP ; %575 7800; www.mu.is; Laugardalur; adult/child Ikr750/550, 1-/10-/20-ride ticket Ikr270/2300/4300; h10am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, to 5pm mid-Aug–May; c) gets packed with happy local families on sunny days. Don’t expect lions; think seals, foxes and farm animals. The family park section is jolly, with a mini-racetrack, child-size bulldozers, a giant trampoline, boats and rides.

6 Shop Local

Trailblazing Frú Lauga ( GOOGLE MAP ; %534 7165; www.frulauga.is; Laugalækur 6; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; v) farmers market sources its products from all over the countryside. Sample skyr desserts from Erpsstaðir farm, organic vegetables, rhubarb conserves, meats, honey and carefully curated international chocolates, wine and the like. There's also a city centre branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %534 7185; www.frulauga.is; Óðinsgata 1; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; v).

7 Waterfront Sculpture & Walks

The peaceful seafront studio of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson (1908–82) is now the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum (Listasafn Sigurjóns Ólafssonar; GOOGLE MAP ; %553 2906; www.lso.is; Laugarnestangi 70; adult/child Ikr500/free; h2-5pm Tue-Sun Jun–mid-Sep, 2-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Nov & Feb-May), showcasing his powerful busts and driftwood totem poles. The area is interlaced with waterfront paths with clear views back to the centre.

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Local Life

Viðey Island

On fine-weather days, the tiny uninhabited island of Viðey (www.videy.com) makes a wonderful day trip. Less than 1km off Reykjavík’s Skarfabakki harbour, it feels a world away. Surprising modern artworks, an abandoned village and great birdwatching add to its remote spell. The only sounds are the wind, the waves and golden bumblebees buzzing among the tufted vetch and hawkweed.

Getting There

f Only five minutes from Skarfabakki, 4.5km east of the city centre.

g 5 stops near Skarfabakki; on the hop-on, hop-off tour-bus route.

1 Local History

Viðey was settled around AD 900 and farmed until the 1950s. It was home to a powerful monastery from 1225, but in 1539 it was wiped out by Danish soldiers during the Reformation. When you arrive, look for a small monument to Skúli Magnússon (1711–94), the powerful sheriff who built his home, Viðeyarstofa, here in the 1750s. He's buried here.

2 Viðeyarstofa & Church

Just above the harbour, Iceland's oldest stone house, Viðeyarstofa, was the residence of Skúli Magnússon. It now houses a cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; mains Ikr800-2900; h11.30am-6pm Wed-Mon, to 8pm Tue mid-May–Sep, 1.30-4pm Sat & Sun Oct–mid-May) serving goodies like salmon, mussels and waffles. There's a display of local finds in the basement. Also explore the 18th-century wooden church and the ancient monastery foundations.

3 Explore the Island

The whole island is criss-crossed with walking paths. Some you can bicycle, others are more precarious. A good map at the harbour shows which are which. The island is great for birdwatching (30 species breed here) and botany (over one-third of all Icelandic plants grow on the island).

4 Bike It!

In summer you can hire a bike (2/5hr rental Ikr2500/3500; hJun-Aug) on the island, bring your own, or come with a Bike Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %590 8550; www.bikecompany.is; Bankastræti 2; bike rental per 5hr Ikr3500; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) tour. There's nothing quite like the free, wind-in-your-hair feeling of cycling along the island paths.

5 Wander the Art

Visit Ólafur Eliasson’s interesting panelled art installation The Blind Pavilion (2003) and Yoko Ono’s Imagine Peace Tower (2007), a ‘wishing well’ that blasts a dazzling column of light into the sky every night between 9 October (John Lennon’s birthday) and 8 December (the anniversary of his death). See Viðey's website for Peace Tower tours from Reykjavík.

6 Barbecue

Locals in the know come prepared with their own cook-out supplies and head to glass-fronted Viðeyjarnaust cabin, on a beautiful headland, which has a public barbecue.

7 To the North

Trails leading to the northwest take you around ponds, some monuments to several shipwrecks, the low cliffs of Eiðisbjarg, and Vesturey at the northern tip of the island. Richard Serra’s sculptures, Áfangar (Milestones; 1990), made from huge pairs of basalt pillars, dot this part of the island.

8 Southern Ruins

From the harbour, trails to the southeast lead past the natural sheepfold Réttin, the tiny grotto Paradíshellir (Paradise Cave), and then to the abandoned fishing village at Sundbakki. Most of the south coast is a protected area for birds and is closed to visitors from May to June.

9 Special Visits

In summer, check Viðey's website for Tuesday-evening cultural tours with varying themes. In late August, some Reykjavikers come to pick wild caraway, which was originally planted here by Skúli Magnússon.

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Top Sights

Blue Lagoon

In a magnificent black lava field 47km southwest of Reykjavík (between Keflavík and Grindavík), this milky-teal spa is fed by water (at a perfect 38°C) from futuristic Svartsengi geothermal plant. Those who say it’s too expensive, too commercial and too crowded aren't wrong, but you’ll be missing something special if you don’t go.The colour and feel of the water is truly otherworldly, and with the roiling steam clouds and people daubed in white silica mud, you'll feel you're on another planet.

Many to Blue Lagoon

g Reykjavík Excursions (www.re.is) connects Reykjavík, the airport and the lagoon.

g Reykjanes Express (www.reykjanesexpress.is) connects Reykjavík's BSÍ Terminal, the lagoon and Grindavík.

MARTIN MOOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bláa Lónið; %420 8800; www.bluelagoon.com; Jun-Aug admission adult/14 & 15 year old/under 14 from €40/20/free, visitor pass (no lagoon entry) €10; h9am-9pm Jun & 11-31 Aug, to 11pm Jul-10 Aug, 10am-8pm Sep-May

y Top Tips

A Cut long lines with e-ticket deals (www.bluelagoon.com) or tour company vouchers (Iceland Air, Reykjavík Excursions).

A Avoid summertime between 10am to 2pm – go early or after 7pm.

A Practice Iceland pool etiquette: thorough naked pre-pool showering.

A You can stay in the pool for a half-hour after closing.

A The car park has luggage check (Ikr300 per day per bag); perfect for the airport.

5 Take a Break

On-site, the Blue Café (snacks Ikr780-1950; h9am-10pm Jun-Aug, to 9pm Sep-May) has cafeteria-style eats, while LAVA Restaurant (www.bluelagoon.com; lunch/dinner mains Ikr3950/5900; hnoon-10pm, Jul-10 Aug, to 8.30pm or 9pm rest of year) features Icelandic dishes.

Don't Miss

A Good Soak

The superheated spa water (70% seawater, 30% fresh water) is rich in blue-green algae, mineral salts and fine silica mud, which condition and exfoliate the skin – sounds like advertising speak, but you really do come out as soft as a baby’s bum. The water is hottest near the vents where it emerges, the surface is warmer than the bottom.

Explore the Complex

The lagoon has an enormous complex of changing rooms, restaurants, a rooftop viewpoint and gift shop. At the pool you'll find hot-pots, steam rooms, sauna, bar and a piping-hot waterfall that delivers a powerful hydraulic massage – like being pummelled by a troll. A VIP section has its own wading space, lounge and viewing platform.

Massage

For extra relaxation, lie on a floating mattress and have a massage therapist knead your knots (half-/one hour €60/95). Book spa treatments well in advance; look online for packages and winter rates.

Stay Longer

If you thrive on remote lava fields and extensive spa time, Blue Lagoon – Clinic Hotel (%420 8806; www.bluelagoon.com; s/d incl breakfast Ikr38,500/46,200; iW) and Northern Light Inn (%426 8650; www.northernlightinn.is; s/d incl breakfast Ikr26,500/34,500; iW) are both walking distance from the lagoon.

Nearby: Cycle & Quad

Combine your Blue Lagoon visit with myriad package tours; or, hook up with nearby ATV Adventures (%857 3001; www.atv4x4.is) for ATV (from Ikr9900 per seat) or cycling tours (Ikr9900 from the lagoon through the lava fields), or bicycle rental (Ikr2900/3900 per four/eight hours). They pick upand drop off at the lagoon.

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Local Life

Reykjanes Peninsula

The Reykjanes Peninsula (www.visitreykjanes.is) is special not only for the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous attraction, but for other local favourites. Sweet fishing hamlets Garður and Sandgerði sit minutes to the west of the airport. Untamed landscapes of volcanic craters, mineral lakes, hot springs, and rugged, ATV-ready mountains and coastal lava fields stretch from Reykjanestá to the Reykjanesfólkvangur Wilderness Reserve.

Getting There

u Best way to see the peninsula.

Bus Service is slim. Reykjanes Express (www.reykjanesexpress.is) bus 4 serves Garður and Sandgerði; bus GRI connects Reykjavík's BSÍ terminal, the Blue Lagoon and Grindavík.

1 Garður

Garður's beautiful windswept Garðskagi headland is great for birdwatching (migratory species land here first) and sometimes seal or whale spotting. Two quaint lighthouses, one tall and one tiny, add drama. Balconied 2 Lighthouses Restaurant (Tveir Vitar; %422 7214; Garðurbraut 100; mains Ikr1950-5000; h8am-noon Mon, to 10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun Apr-Oct) has superb views to Snæfellsjökull.

2 Local History & Seafood

In Sandgerði, peruse the fascinating exhibit about shipwrecked explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot at the Sudurnes Science and Learning Center (%423 7551; http://thekkingarsetur.is/english/exhibitions/; Gerðavegur 1; adult/child Ikr600/300; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 10am-2pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr). Lunch at excellent Vitinn (%423 7755; www.vitinn.is; Vitatorg 7; mains Ikr4100-6850; h11.30am-9pm May-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Apr) where a friendly husband and wife serve heaps of seafood in marine-chic surrounds.

3 Birds & Bards

Pleasant beaches dot the coast south of Sandgerði, and the surrounding marshes are frequented by more than 190 species of birds. About 5km south you’ll find a lonely church at Hvalsnes, featured in a famous Icelandic hymn by Hallgrímur Pétursson (1616–74), written at the death of his young daughter who was buried here.

4 100 Crater Park

In the far southwest of the peninsula, the lava fields and wild volcanic craters are dubbed 100 Crater Park. Power plants exploit geothermal heat to produce salt from seawater and to generate electricity. Power Plant Earth (Orkuverið Jörð; %436 1000; www.powerplantearth.is; admission Ikr1000; h12.30-4.30pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) has an interactive exhibition about energy.

5 Valahnúkur

One of the most wild and wonderful spots on the peninsula is Valahnúkur, where a windy road leads off Rte 425 through 13th-century lava fields. Dramatic, climbable cliffs and Reykjanesviti lighthouse, the oldest (1878) in Iceland, sit near a steaming multicoloured geothermal area with hot spring Gunnuhver (named after a witch-ghost lured into the boiling water).

6 Break in Grindavík

For a late-afternoon pick-me-up, stop off at charming dock-front cafe Bryggjan (Harbour; snacks Ikr600-1400; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; W), in Grindavík. Locals sun themselves over coffees, cakes and homemade soups.

7 Open Air

To explore Reykjanes by foot, ATV or horse, Grindavík is home to outfitters ATV Adventures (%857 3001; www.atv4x4.is) and Arctic Horses (%848 0143; www.arctichorses.is; Hópsheiði 16, Grindavík), and the tourist office (%420 1190; www.visitgrindavik.is; h10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) stocks maps of the region's walking trails.

8 Springs, Lava & Lakes

Looping back to Reykjavík, visit either the Blue Lagoon, late, like the locals, or the dramatic lava, hot springs and lakes around the 300-sq-km Reykjanesfólkvangur Wilderness Reserve. Criss-crossed by walking trails, its three showpieces are Kleifarvatn, a deep mineral lake with submerged hot springs and black-sand beaches; the Krýsuvík geothermal zone at Seltún; and the southwest’s largest bird cliffs, epic Krýsuvíkurberg.

Golden Circle

The Golden Circle takes in three marquee attractions all within 100km of the capital: Þingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss. It's an artificial tourist circuit (no natural topography marks its extent), loved by thousands. You'll see a meeting point of the continental plates and site of the ancient parliament (Þingvellir), a spouting hot spring (Geysir) and a roaring waterfall (Gullfoss), all in one doable-in-a-day loop.

ANNAPURNA MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Region in a Day

M Get an early start from Reykjavík and head straight to Þingvellir, planning at least an hour to wander the parliament site, the rift and falls. On your way there you can visit the Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum, the home of Nobel Prize–winning author Halldór Laxness.

R Lunch on delicious wild-caught dishes in Laugarvatn at Lindin, in its formal restaurant or laid-back bistro. Or head to Efstidalur II for local-caught fish and farm burgers; don't miss the farm ice cream and cool barn cafe. It also has horse riding. For a swank spa experience, take a dip at Fontana. Then visit Geysir and Gullfoss. If time permits, squeeze in river rafting near Reykholt.

N If you didn't hit the spa at Fontana be sure to spend your evening in Flúðir at Gamla Laugin, a natural historic geothermal pool, newly and wonderfully refurbished, next to mini-geysers, meadows and a rushing brook. Afterwards, grab a bite at Minilik Ethiopian Restaurant, or stop in Selfoss at Tryggvaskála for more formal Icelandic fare.

Top Experiences

Þingvellir

Geysir

Gullfoss

x  Best of Golden Circle

Eating

Lindin

Silfra Restaurant

With Kids

Geysir

River Rafting

Horse Riding

For Free

Þingvellir

Geysir

Gullfoss

Getting There

u Car Easiest way to tailor your trip.

Tour Myriad tours cover the Golden Circle.

g Bus Key routes: Reykjavík Excursions (%580 5400; www.re.is) bus 6/6A (BSÍ Bus Station–Þingvellir–Laugarvatn–Geysir–Gullfoss, one daily mid-June to mid-September); and Sterna (Bílar og fólk; %551 1166; www.sterna.is) bus F35/F35A (Harpa–Þingvellir–Laugarvatn–Geysir–Gullfoss–Kjölur Highlands–Kerlingarfjöll–Akureyri, one daily late June to early September).

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Top Sights

Þingvellir

Unesco World Heritage Site Þingvellir National Park (23km east of Reykjavík) is Iceland’s most important historical spot and a place of vivid beauty. The Viking settlers established the world’s first democratic parliament, the Alþingi, here in AD 930. Meetings were conducted outdoors in the superb natural setting: an immense, fissured rift valley caused by the meeting of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, with rivers and waterfalls all around.

www.thingvellir.is

Öxarárfoss falls

SJO/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Free one-hour guided tours (10am June to August) set off from the church.

A Þingvellir Information Centre (Leirar Þjónustumiðstöð; GOOGLE MAP ; %482 2660; www.thingvellir.is; h9am-5pm May-Sep), on Rte 36 on the north side of the lake, has details about the park, as does Þingvellir Visitors Centre (Gestastofa; GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm) in the south.

A As with most Saga sites, only stone foundations of ancient encampments remain.

A Þingvellir is pronounced thing-vet-lir, Alþingi is al-thingk-ee.

5 Take a Break

There's not much to eat in the park. There's a basic cafeteria (National Park Information Centre; soup Ikr950; h9am-10pm Apr-Oct) in the information centre. The other option, fab new Silfra Restaurant (www.ioniceland.is; Nesjavellir vid, Þingvallavatn; dinner mains Ikr4400-6200; h11.30am-10pm) at the Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel (on the south side of Þingvallavatn) features slow-food ingredients and a bar with plate-glass windows.

Don't Miss

Tectonic Plates

Þingvellir sits on a tectonic plate boundary where North America and Europe are tearing away from each other at 1mm to 18mm per year. As a result, the plain is scarred by dramatic fissures, ponds and rivers, including the great rift Almannagjá. A path runs along the fault between the clifftop visitors centre and the Alþingi site. Look for impressive falls Öxarárfoss, on the northern edge of the cliffs.

Historic Buildings

The farmhouse in the bottom of the rift, Þingvallabær, was built for the 1000th anniversary of the Alþingi in 1930 by state architect Guðjón Samúelsson. It’s now used as the park warden’s office and prime minister’s summer house. Þingvallakirkja was one of Iceland’s first churches. The original was consecrated in the 11th century; the current building dates from 1859.

Encampment Ruins

Straddling the Öxará river are ruins of temporary camps called búðir (booths). These stone foundations were covered during sessions and also acted like stalls at today’s music festivals: selling beer, food and vellum. Most date to the 17th and 18th centuries; the largest, and one of the oldest, is Biskupabúð, north of the church.

Alþingi

Near the dramatic Almannagjá fault and fronted by a boardwalk is the Lögberg (Law Rock), where the Alþingi convened annually, and where the lögsögumaður (law speaker) recited existing laws. After Iceland’s conversion to Christianity the site shifted to the foot of the Almannagjá cliffs, which acted as a natural amplifier. That site is marked by the Icelandic flag.

1

Top Sights

Geysir

One of Iceland’s most famous tourist attractions, Geysir (pronounced gay-zeer, which literally means 'gusher') is the original hot-water spout after which all other geysers are named. Discovered in the beautiful Haukadalur geothermal region, which is surrounded by verdant fields, the Great Geysir has been active for perhaps 800 years, and once gushed water up to 80m into the air. Now relatively dormant, its neighbour Strokkur steals the show with steady eruptions that make crowds oooh and aaah.

Strokkur

FRANCESCO R. I ACOMINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

y Top Tips

A Stand downwind only if you want a shower.

A The undulating, hissing geothermal area containing Strokkur and Geysir was free to enter at the time of research, though there is discussion of instituting a fee.

A You can grab arresting photos from up the valley, looking back at the volcanic hills and erupting geyser.

5 Take a Break

The Geysir Center houses a massive restaurant (mains Ikr1490 to Ikr2450), cafe (mains Ikr1480 to Ikr2000) and fast-food joint (Ikr990 to Ikr1690).

Across the street, the restaurant at Hótel Geysir (%480 6800; www.geysircenter.is; Geysir; s/d from Ikr22,000/25,000, campsites per person Ikr1500, buffet lunch Ikr3500, dinner mains Ikr2700-5700; hFeb-Dec, campsite May-Sep; iW) bustles with tour groups tucking into the buffet lunch.

Don't Miss

Geysir & Strokkur

Geysir goes through periods of lessened activity, which seems to be have been the case since 1916. Earthquakes can stimulate activity, though nowadays eruptions are rare. Luckily for visitors, the very reliable geyser, Strokkur, sits alongside. You'll rarely wait more than 10 minutes for the hot spring to shoot an impressive 15m to 30m plume before vanishing down its enormous hole.

Geysir Center

The large Geysir Center (%480 6800; www.geysircenter.com; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep-May) corrales the masses across the street from the geysers. A souvenir shop of mall-like proportions with Icelandic name brands, and an N1 petrol station, share space with eateries and Geysirstofa (%480 6800; h10am-5pm May-Aug, noon-4pm Sep-Apr), an interesting audiovisual exhibition about geysers, volcanoes and earthquakes.

Surrounding Activities

Take advantage of Geysir's picturesque setting by hiking in nearby Haukadalur forest, hitting the links at Geysir Golf Course (Haukadalsvöllur; %893 8733; www.geysirgolf.is; 9 holes Ikr3000) or going salmon fishing on the Tungufljót river. On cold, clear winter evenings, look out for the Northern Lights. Many tours from Reykjavík offer these activities and more.

Adventure Tours

Want to hook up with a tour near Geysir? Iceland Safari (%544 5454; www.icelandsafari.com; Geysir), 1km south of Geysir, takes super-Jeep trips to places throughout the southwest. Or go 4km east of Geysir to Kjóastaðir horse farm where Geysir Hestar (%847 1046; www.geysirhestar.com; Kjóastaðir 2 ) offers horse riding in the area or along Hvítará Canyon to Gullfoss. Rafting trips ply the nearby Hvítá river.

1

Top Sights

Gullfoss

Iceland’s most famous waterfall, Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is a spectacular double cascade dropping a dramatic 32m. As it descends, it kicks up tiered walls of spray before thundering away down a narrow rocky ravine. On sunny days the mist creates shimmering rainbows, and it’s also magical in winter when the falls glitter with ice. Though it's a popular sight, the falls' remote location still makes you feel the ineffable forces of nature that have been at work on this landscape for millennia.

www.gullfoss.is

ANNAPURNA MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

* On grey, drizzly days, mist can envelop the second drop, making Gullfoss slightly less thrilling.

A There’s accommodation a few kilometres before the falls at Hótel Gullfoss (%486 8979; www.hotelgullfoss.is; d incl breakfast Ikr24,700; W), where clean en suite rooms overlook the moors (get one facing the valley), and there are two hot-pots and a restaurant (mains Ikr2100 to Ikr5000) with sweeping views.

5 Take a Break

Above Gullfoss and next to the main parking lot, a small tourist information centre, shop and cafe (www.gullfoss.is; cafe mains Ikr750-1890; h9am-9.30pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sep-May; W) is famous for its organic lamb soup, which is made from locally sourced ingredients and comes with refills. It also offers other soups, salads, sandwiches, cakes and coffee.

Don't Miss

Views & Photo Ops

A tarmac path leads from the main parking lot and visitor centre to a grand lookout over the falls. Stairs then continue down to the level of the falls. Or, drive in on the spur below the tourist centre at falls level to disabled-accessible parking (only). A path then continues down the valley toward the thundering falls for the most kinetic video shots.

Saving the Falls

Sigríður Tómassdóttir (1871–1957) and her sisters made the first stairs to the falls, guiding people through formerly impassable terrain. In 1907, foreign investors wanted to dam the Hvítá river, which feeds the falls, for a hydroelectric project. Sigríður's father, Tómas Tómasson, only leased them the land, but the developers got permission from the government. Sigríður walked (barefoot!) to Reykjavík to protest. When the investors failed to pay the lease, the agreement was nullified and the falls escaped destruction. Gullfoss was donated to the nation, and since 1979 it's been a nature reserve. Look for the memorial to Sigríður near the foot of the stairs from the visitors centre.

Nearby: The Kjölur Route

Gullfoss is the final stop on traditional Golden Circle tours. You can continue along magnificent Rte F35 beyond the falls (the Kjölur Route) for 14.8km while it's paved, after which you need to have a 4WD. Alternatively, take a Reykjavík–Akureyri bus, which stop at the Kerlingarfjöll hiking area as well; specifically, Reykjavík Excursions (%580 5400; www.re.is) bus 610 or 610A, or Sterna (%551 1166; www.sterna.is) bus F35 or F35A.

y

Top Tip

Planning Your Journey

A Seeing the Golden Circle with your own vehicle allows you to visit at off-hours and explore attractions further afield.

A Visiting with a tour, on the other hand, takes out the guesswork. Almost every tour company in Reykjavík offers a Golden Circle excursion.

A If you want to spend the night in the relatively small region, Laugarvatn has good services: camp at Þingvellir; luxe it at Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %482 3415; www.ioniceland.is; Nesjavellir vid Þingvallavatn; s/d Ikr44,000/51,000; piWs); or choose from accommodation along Rte 35.

A To go on to west Iceland afterwards, complete the Circle backwards, finishing with Þingvellir.

Top Experiences

Geysir  D1

Gullfoss  D1

Þingvellir  B2

Experiences

1Gamla laugin  D3

2Fontana  C2

3Hverasvæðið  A3

4Reykjadalur  A3

5Kerið  B3

Laugarvatn Adventures  C2

5 Eating

6Efstidalur II  C2

7Tryggvaskála  B4

8Café Mika  C2

Grund  D3

Lindin  C2

Minlik Ethiopian Restaurant  D3

Varma  A3

7 Shopping

Gallerí Laugarvatn  C2

Experiences

1Gamla LauginGEOTHERMAL POOL

Get here before the real crowds come! Opened in 2014, this lovely hot spring is a refurbished version of the one the town used informally for years. It's a broad, calm geothermal pool, mist rising, surrounded by natural rocks and with a gravelly bottom. The walking trail along its edge passes the local river and a series of sizzling vents and geysers. Meadows around fill with wildflowers in summer. During off-hours you might have it totally to yourself.

Find it signposted (there's also a sign for Hvammar) down a rutted track on the northern bank of the river Litla-Laxá in Flúðir.

(Secret Lagoon; %555 3351; www.secretlagoon.is; adult/child Ikr2500/free; h1-10pm)

1FontanaGEOTHERMAL POOL

This swanky lakeside soaking spot in Laugarvatn boasts three mod wading pools, and a cedar-lined steam room that’s fed by a naturally occurring vent below. The cool cafe (snacks Ikr500 to lkr1200) has lake views. You can rent towels or swimsuits (Ikr800) if you left yours at home.

(%486 1400; www.fontana.is; adult/child/under 12yr Ikr3200/1600/free; h10am-11pm Jun-Sep, 1-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat & Sun Oct-May)

1HverasvæðiðGEOTHERMAL POOL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The geothermal park Hverasvæðið, in the centre of town, has mudpots and steaming pools where visitors can dip their feet (but no more). You can book ahead for a guided walk to learn about the area’s unique geology and greenhouse power. Or they'll give you an egg and apparatus (Ikr100) for boiling it in the steaming vents. There's a small cafe with geothermally baked bread.

(%483 4601; Hveramörk 13; adult/child Ikr200/free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

1ReykjadalurGEOTHERMAL POOL

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Reykjadalur is a delightful geothermal valley where there’s a bathable hot river – bring your swimsuit. There are maps at the tourist office to find the trail; from the trailhead car park, it’s a 3km hike through fields of sulphur-belching plains. Stick to marked paths, lest you melt your shoes, and leave no trash. In recent years the area has taken a beating due to thoughtless visitors.

(Hot River Valley; )

1KeriðVOLCANO

Around 15.5km north of Selfoss on Rte 35, Kerið is a 6500-year-old explosion crater with vivid red and sienna earth and containing an ethereal green lake. Björk once performed a concert from a floating raft in the middle. At the time of research, local property owners had (controversially) started charging for entrance to Kerið; this may change.

(adult/child Ikr350/free; h9am-9pm Jun-Aug)

1Gljúfrasteinn Laxness MuseumMUSEUM

Nobel Prize–winning author Halldór Laxness (1902–98) lived in Mosfellsbær all his life. His riverside home is now the Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum, easy to visit on the road from Reykjavík to Þingvellir (Rte 36). The author built this upper-class 1950s house and it remains intact with original furniture, writing room and Laxness’ fine-art collection (needlework, sweetly, by his wife Auður). An audio-tour leads you round. Look for his beloved Jaguar parked out front.

(%586 8066; www.gljufrasteinn.is; Mosfellsbær; adult/child Ikr800/free; h9am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Mar-May, Sep, Oct & Dec, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri Jan-Feb & Nov)

1LaxnesHORSE RIDING

Small, family-owned Laxnes is run by an older couple whose nephews take newbies out for relaxed trots. On the way out to Þingvellir. Also offers combo tours.

(%566 6179; www.laxnes.is; Mosfellsbær)

1Laugarvatn AdventuresROCK CLIMBING, CAVING

Runs two- to three-hour caving and rock-climbing trips in the hills around town.

(%862 5614; www.caving.is)

y

Top Tip

Completing the Loop

If you’re completing the Golden Circle in the traditional direction starting at Þingvellir, then the route from Gullfoss back to the Ring Road at Selfoss and the geothermal fields at Hveragerði will be the final stage of your trip. Along the way you’ll find plenty to lure you to stop. Most people follow surfaced Rte 35, which passes through Reykholt with its river rafting. You can also detour slightly to Fluðir, with its geothermal greenhouses and hot spring, and Skálholt, once Iceland’s religious powerhouse.

If you'd like to continue east rather than return to Reykjavík, see the South Coast chapter, (Click here).

y

Top Tip

Circle vs Ring

Don't confuse the Golden Circle with the Ring Road (Rte 1), which wraps around the entire country (and takes a week or more to properly complete).

Eating

5LindinICELANDIC €€

Owned by Baldur, an affable, celebrated chef, Lindin is the best restaurant for miles. In a sweet little silver house, the restaurant faces the lake and is purely gourmet, with high-concept Icelandic fare featuring local or wild-caught ingredients. The casual, modern bistro serves a more informal menu from soups to an amazing reindeer burger. Book ahead for dinner in high season.

(%486 1262; www.laugarvatn.is; Lindarbraut 2; restaurant mains Ikr3600-5500, bistro mains Ikr1800-4000; hnoon-10pm May-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Apr)

5Efstidalur II ICELANDIC €€

Located 12km northeast of Laugarvatn on a working dairy farm with brilliant views of hulking Hekla, Efstidalur offers tasty meals and amazing ice cream. The restaurant serves beef from the farm and trout from the lake. The fun ice-cream bar scoops farm ice cream, and has windows looking into the dairy barn.

(%486 1186; www.efstidalur.is; Efstidalur 2; mains Ikr1200-5000; h8am-9pm Jun-Sep)

5Minilik Ethiopian RestaurantETHIOPIAN €€

Sweet-faced Azeb cooks up traditional Ethiopian specialities in this welcoming, unpretentious spot. There are loads of vegetarian options, but also lamb such as awaze tibs or chicken (doro kitfo). As far as we know, this is the only Ethiopian restaurant in Iceland, and it should beckon all lovers of spice.

(%846 9798; www.minilik.is; mains Ikr1850-3000; hnoon-8pm Jun–6 Sep; v)

5TryggvaskálaICELANDIC €€

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Tryggvaskála's actually worth stopping for. This new restaurant (the brainchild of the Kaffi Krús guys) fills Selfoss' first house (built for bridge workers in 1890). Lovingly renovated and on the riverfront with a romantic mood, the intimate dining rooms are filled with antique touches, and the fine-dining Icelandic menu sources local produce.

(%482 1390; www.tryggvaskala.is; Austurvegur 1; mains Ikr2460-5000; h11.30am-10pm)

5VarmaICELANDIC €€

MAP GOOGLE MAP

At the Frost & Fire hotel in Hveragerði, this wonderfully scenic restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows over the stream and gorge. Dishes are Icelandic, using fresh, local ingredients and herbs and often geothermal cooking techniques.

(lunch mains Ikr1670-3700, dinner mains Ikr3750-5000; h8am-10pm)

5Café MikaINTERNATIONAL €€

In Reykholt, Café Mika has an outdoor pizza oven, sandwiches and Icelandic mains, and sells handcrafted chocolate.

(%896 6450; Skólabraut 4; mains Ikr1000-3900; h10am-9pm; W)

5GrundICELANDIC €€

Run by kindly Dagný, this popular restaurant prides itself in offering fresh local food.

(%565 9196; www.gistingfludir.is; mains Ikr1750-4900; h11.30am-9pm Jun-mid-Aug)

l

Local Life

Waterways

The Golden Circle offers several prime chances to partake of local waters.

A Scuba dive or snorkel the crystalline Silfra fissure, one of the cracks in the Þingvellir rift valley. Book with Dive.is (%578 6200; www.dive.is; 2 dives at Þingvellir Ikr34,990) or Scuba Iceland (%892 1923; www.scuba.is; 2 dives at Þingvellir Ikr34,990).

A Arctic Rafting (%571 2200; www.arcticrafting.com; hmid-Apr–Sep) offers tours combining Hvítá river rafting and horse riding, ATV-ing or snowmobiling. Based near Reykholt at Drumboddsstaðir; its Reykjavík office is at Arctic Adventures ( GOOGLE MAP ; %562 7000; www.adventures.is; Laugavegur 11; h8am-10pm).

A Iceland Riverjet (%863 4506; www.icelandriverjet.com; Skólabraut 4; hApr–mid-Oct) has jetboat rides along the Hvítá. Based in Reykholt.

Understand

Supernatural Iceland

Once you see the vast lava fields, eerie natural formations and isolated farms that characterise much of the Icelandic landscape, it should come as no surprise that many Icelanders have beliefs that go beyond the strictly scientific.

Hidden People

In the lava are jarðvergar (gnomes), álfar (elves), ljósálfar (fairies), dvergar (dwarves), ljúflingar (lovelings), tívar (mountain spirits) and englar (angels). Stories about them have been handed down through generations, and many modern Icelanders claim to have seen these huldufólk (hidden people)…or at least to know someone who has.

As in Ireland, there are stories about projects going wrong when workers try to build roads through huldufólk homes: the weather turns bad, machinery breaks down, labourers fall ill. In mid-2014 Iceland's 'whimsy factor' again made international news when a road project to link the Álftanes peninsula to the Reykjavík suburb of Garðabær was halted when campaigners warned it would disturb elf habitat.

Ghosts & Trolls

As for Icelandic ghosts, they’re substantial beings – not the wafting shadows found elsewhere in Europe. Írafell-Móri (móri and skotta are used for male and female ghosts, respectively) needed to eat supper every night, and one of the country’s most famous spooks, Sel-Móri, got seasick when he stowed away in a boat.

Rock stacks and certain lava formations around the country are often said to be trolls, caught out at sunrise and turned forever to stone.

Finding Out More

Surveys suggest that more than half of Icelanders at least entertain the possibility of the existence of huldufólk. But a word of warning: many Icelanders get sick of visitors asking, and they don't enjoy the ‘Those cute Icelanders! They believe in pixies!’ attitude. Even if they don’t entirely disbelieve, they’re unlikely to admit it to a stranger.

To ask all the questions you want, join a tour in Hafnarfjörður, 10km south of Reykjavík, or take a course at the Icelandic Elf School (Álfaskólinn; www.elfmuseum.com) in Reykjavík. Yes, there really is such a place, and it runs four-hour introductory classes most Fridays.

Shopping

7Gallerí LaugarvatnARTS & CRAFTS

Local handicrafts, from ironwork to ceramics and woollens. Also operates a small B&B.

(%847 0805; www.gallerilaugarvatn.is; Háholt 1; h1-6pm)

South Coast

The Ring Road (Rte 1) sweeps southeast of Reykjavík through wide coastal plains and verdant horse farms before the landscape grows wonderfully jagged, after Hvolsvöllur and Hella, near Skógar and Vík. Inland, mountains thrust upwards, some of them volcanoes wreathed by mist (such as Eyjafjallajökull, site of the 2010 eruption), and awesome glaciers glimmer, as rivers carve their way to black-sand beaches.

JORGE SANTOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Region in a Day

M The south coast is enormous, so you'll need to pick your focus. Head east along the Ring Road, stopping near Hella or Hvolsvöllur for horse riding, and Saga studies at Sögusetrið; or hit the coast at Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki for a taste of local life in an Icelandic fishing village. If you'd rather explore the powerful Þjórsádalur river valley, go to Þjórsárstofa in Árnes for top sight information. Or, plan a day trip to the Vestmannaeyjar.

R Lunch at Gamla Fjósið and stop off at Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Centre; or head straight along to Skógar, stopping at the several grand waterfalls, the Skógar Folk Museum and Sólheimajökull ice tongue. Take any number of adventure tours, or zip along to Vík's magnificent coastline at Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara.

N In summer book ahead for dinner at Vík's Suður-Vík or Halldórskaffi. Definitely reserve ahead to spend the night and see more of this popular part of the country, or power back to Reykjavík.

x  Best of the South Coast

Natural Wonders

Hekla

Vatnajökull

Seljalandsfoss

Sólheimajökull

Eyjafjallajökull

Skógafoss

Eldfell

Svartifoss

Eating

Slippurinn

Gamla Fjósið

Getting There

u Car Gives the most freedom; roads are good except deep inland.

Tours Almost all Reykjavík-based tour companies offer excursions to the south, and many local operators can also pick up in Reykjavík.

g Bus The most popular tourist routes in the country head through here. All companies – Strætó (%540 2700; www.bus.is), Sterna (%551 1166; www.sterna.is) and Reykjavík Excursions (%580 5400; www.re.is) – offer myriad lines. Trex (%587 6000; www.trex.is) serves Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar.

Experiences

1Dyrhólaey  C5

2Reynisfjara  C5

3Sögusetrið  A3

4Skógar Folk Museum  B4

5Seljalandsfoss & Gljúfurárbui  B4

6Sólheimajökull  C4

7Skógafoss  B4

8Þjórsárstofa  A2

9Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Centre  B4

10Atlantsflug  A4

5 Eating

11Suður-Vík  D5

12Hellubió  A3

Cafe Sólheimajökull  C4

Eldstó Art Café  A3

Gamla Fjósið  B4

Halldórskaffi  D5

Hótel Skógafoss  B4

Hótel Skógafoss  B4

Þjórsárstofa Restaurant  A2

7 Shopping

Víkurprjón  D5

Experiences

1DyrhólaeyLANDMARK, WILDLIFE RESERVE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of the south coast’s most recognisable natural formations is the rocky plateau and huge stone sea arch at Dyrhólaey (deer-lay), which rises dramatically from the surrounding plain 10km west of Vík, at the end of Rte 218. The promontory is a nature reserve that's rich in bird life, including puffins. It’s closed during nesting season (15 May to 25 June), but at other times you can visit its crashing black beaches and get awesome views from atop the archway.

1ReynisfjaraLANDMARK, BEACH

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On the west side of Reynisfjall, the high ridge above Vík, Rte 215 leads 5km down to the black-sand beach at Reynisfjara. The raw beach is backed by an incredible stack of basalt columns that look like a magical church organ and there are outstanding views west to Dyrhólaey. The surrounding cliffs are pocked with caves formed from twisted basalt, and puffins bellyflop from here into the crashing sea during the summer. Immediately offshore are the towering sea stacks Reynisdrangur ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Basalt columns on the beach at Vík

MICHAEL PEUCKERT/ROBERT HARDING ©

1SögusetriðMUSEUM

Hvolsvöllur's Saga Centre is devoted to the dramatic events of Njál’s Saga, which took place in the surrounding hills. Interactive displays explain the many highlights of the story. In 2013 an intricate 90m embroidery called Njál's Saga Tapestry (www.njalurefill.is; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) was begun; visitors can pay to add stitches (Ikr1000) to the enormous collaborative project, or just observe. There's also a longhouse cafe and tourist information (brochures, maps and helpful staff).

(Saga Centre; %487 8781; www.njala.is; Hliðarvegur 14; adult/child Ikr900/free; h9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-May)

1Skógar Folk MuseumMUSEUM

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The highlight of little Skógar is the wonderful Skógar Folk Museum, which covers all aspects of Icelandic life. The vast collection was put together by 91-year-old Þórður Tómasson over more than 75 years. There are also restored buildings (church, turf-roofed farmhouse, cowsheds etc), and a huge, modern building houses an interesting transport and communication museum, cafe Skógakaffi (open 10am to 5pm), and a shop.

(Skógasafn; %487 8845; www.skogasafn.is; adult/child Ikr1750/free, outside structures only Ikr800; hmuseum 9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm May & Sep, 11am-4pm Oct-Apr)

1Seljalandsfoss & GljúfurárbuiWATERFALLS

From the Ring Road you'll see the beautiful high falls at Seljalandsfoss, which tumble over a rocky scarp into a deep, green pool. A (slippery) path runs around the back of the waterfall. A few hundred metres further down the Þórsmörk road, Gljúfurárbui gushes into a hidden canyon. Sterna and Reykjavík Excursions buses from Reykjavík to Skógar and beyond stop at Seljalandsfoss.

1SólheimajökullGLACIER

One of the easiest glacial tongues to reach is Sólheimajökull. This icy tongue unfurls from the main Mýrdalsjökull ice cap and is a favourite spot for glacial walks and ice climbing. A 4.2km rutted dirt track (Rte 221) leads off the Ring Road to a small car park and Cafe Solheimajökull (%852 2052; snacks Ikr820-1500; h10am-6pm May-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Apr), from where you can walk the 800m to the ice along a wide track edging the glacial lagoon. Don't attempt to climb onto the glacier unguided.

1SkógafossWATERFALL

The 62m-high Skógafoss topples over a rocky cliff at the western edge of Skógar in dramatic style. Climb the steep staircase alongside for giddy views, or walk to the foot of the falls, shrouded in sheets of mist and rainbows. Legend has it that a settler named Þrasi hid a chest of gold behind Skógafoss…

1ÞjórsárstofaMUSEUM

Stop in the tiny settlement of Árnes, near the junction of Rtes 30 and 32, for the informative Þjórsárstofa. In the large white building, it has an excellent free surround-sound-style film about the Þjórsárdalur river valley and what you will see further along. There are multimedia displays and a good restaurant as well.

(Þjórsá Visitor Centre; %486 6115; www.thjorsarstofa.is; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug)

1Eyjafjallajökull Visitor CentreEXHIBITION

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This centre, about 7km west of Skógar, is on a farm on the southern flanks of Eyjafjallajökull which was impacted by the 2010 eruption. A 20-minute film (usually in English) tells the family's story, from the ominous warnings to the devastating aftermath of the flooding ash. Movie snippets include tender family moments and highlights from the team of local rescuers that dug the farm out.

(Þorvaldseyri Visitor Center – Iceland Erupts; %487 8815; www.icelanderupts.is; Þorvaldseyri; adult/child Ikr750/free; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm May & Sep, 11am-4pm Oct-Apr)

1AtlantsflugFLIGHTSEEING

From Bakki Airport, on the coast 5km northwest of Landeyjahöfn, Atlantsflug offers 30-minute to 75-minute overflights (Ikr22,300 to lkr44,000) of Eyjafjallajökull, glaciers and highlands. Flights also run to Heimaey, in Vestmannaeyjar (one-way Ikr8000), and also depart from Skaftafell and Reykjavík.

(%854 4105; www.flightseeing.is)

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Top Tip

Adventure Tours

South Iceland (www.south.is) is the land of adventure tours. Most local operators offer lots of combinations and Reykjavík pick-ups; most Reykjavík companies also run tours here.

A South Iceland Adventures (%770 2030; www.siadv.is) Great bespoke adventure operators: hiking, super-Jeeps, canyoning, ice climbing.

A Southcoast Adventure (%867 3535; www.southadventure.is) Excellent small operator with super-Jeeps, hiking, snowmobiling, volcano tours and glacier walks.

A Icelandic Mountain Guides (%587 9999, Skógar office 894 2956; www.mountainguide.is) Sólheimajökull glacier walks and ice climbs.

A Arcanum (%487 1500; www.arcanum.is) Daily Sólheimajökull glacier walks, ice climbing, super-Jeep, ATV and other tours.

A Katla Track (%849 4404; www.katlatrack.is) Explores landmarks near Vík and Mýrdalsjökull.

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Local Life

Stokkseyri & Eyrarbakki

South of the Ring Road (Rte 1), 45km west of Hella, the tiny fishing villages of Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki are refreshingly local-feeling. Stokkseyri has summertime art galleries and Draugasetrið (Ghost Centre; www.draugasetrid.is; Hafnargata 9; adult/child Ikr2000/1000, incl Icelandic Wonders Ikr3500/1500; h1-6pm Jun-Aug), a veritable haunted house run by a gaggle of bloodthirsty teens. In Eyrarbakki, Flói Nature Reserve ( GOOGLE MAP ) is super for birdwatching, and duelling restaurants Við Fjöruborðið (%483 1550; www.fjorubordid.is; Eyrabraut 3a; mains Ikr2600-5550; hnoon-9pm Jun-Aug, from 5pm Sep-May; W) and Rauða Húsið (%486 8701; www.raudahusid.is; Búðarstígur 4; mains Ikr1900-3500; h11.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun; W) contend for the 'best lobster bisque' award.

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Top Tip

Glaciers & Ice Tongues

Tantalising as the glaciers may be, glinting just off the roadside, it is paramount to realise that no one should go on them without experienced, local guidance. Crevasses can form suddenly and are often invisible (beneath snow), gases can be emitted by volcanic activity, and flooding (sometimes invisible from above) can destabilise the ice even further. With the growing popularity of tourism in Iceland, the numbskullish behaviour of visitors occasionally makes the news (one man drove his family onto the glacier in a rental car). Don't be one of those tourists – go with any of the area operators (all offer tours).

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Local Life

Horse Riding

Many horse farms around the south, especially near Hella and Hvolsvöllur, and between Skógar and Vík, offer rides or multiday tours, and most have accommodation. Expect to pay Ikr6500 to Ikr9000 for a one-hour ride, and up to Ikr13,000 for a three-hour ride, though prices can drop for groups. Outfitters include Herríðarhóll ( GOOGLE MAP ; %487 5252; www.herridarholl.is; Herríðarhóli), Hekluhestar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %487 6598; www.hekluhestar.is; Austvaðsholt) and Skálakot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %487 8953; www.skalakot.com).

Understand

Icelandic Volcanoes

Situated on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a massive 18,000km-long rift between two of the earth’s major tectonic plates, Iceland is a shifting, steaming lesson in classroom geology. A mere baby in geological terms, it's the youngest country in Europe, formed by underwater volcanic eruptions along the joint of the North American and Eurasian plates 17 to 20 million years ago. The earth’s crust in Iceland is only a third of its normal thickness, and magma (molten rock) continues to rise from deep within, forcing the two plates apart. The result is clearly visible at Þingvellir, where the great rift Almannagjá broadens by between 1mm and 18mm per year.

The thin crust and grating plates are responsible for a whole host of exciting volcanic activities, but fissure eruptions and their associated craters are probably the most common type of eruption in Iceland. The still-volatile Lakagígar crater row around Mt Laki is the country’s most unearthly example. It produced the largest lava flow in human history in the 18th century, covering an area of 565 sq km to a depth of 12m.

Subglacial & Submarine Eruptions

Several of Iceland’s liveliest volcanoes lie beneath glaciers, which makes for drama as molten lava and ice interact. The main eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010 caused a jökulhlaup (flooding caused by volcanic eruption beneath an ice cap) before throwing up the famous ash plume that grounded Europe’s aeroplanes. Iceland’s most active volcano, Grímsvötn, which lies beneath Vatnajökull ice cap, behaved similarly in 2011.

In 1963 the island of Surtsey exploded from the sea, giving scientists the opportunity to study how smouldering chunks of newly created land are colonised by plants and animals. Surtsey is off-limits to visitors, but you can climb many classical-looking cones such as Hekla, once thought to be the gateway to Hell; Eldfell, which did its best to bury the town of Heimaey in 1974; and Snæfellsjökull on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

The Icelandic Met Office (www.vedur.is) keeps track of eruptions and the earthquakes that tend to precede them, plus the emissions that follow.

Eating

5Gamla FjósiðICELANDIC €€

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Built in a former cowshed that was in use until 1999, this charming eatery’s focus is on farm-fresh and grass-fed meaty mains – from burgers to Volcano Soup, a spicy meat stew. The hardwood floor and low beams are cheered with polished dining tables, large wooden hutches and cheerful staff.

(Old Cowhouse; %487 7788; www.gamlafjosid.is; Hvassafell; mains Ikr1100-6500; h11am-9pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May; W)

5Suður-VíkICELANDIC, ASIAN €€

The friendly ambience, from hardwood floors and interesting artwork to smiling staff, helps elevate this new restaurant beyond the competition. Food is Icelandic hearty, from heaping steak sandwiches with bacon and Béarnaise sauce, to Asian (think Thai satay with rice). In a warmly lit silver building atop town. Book ahead in summer.

(%487 1515; Suðurvíkurvegur 1; mains Ikr1750-4950; hnoon-10pm)

5HalldórskaffiINTERNATIONAL €€

Inside Brydebúð museum, this lively timber-lined all-rounder is very popular in high season for its crowd-pleasing menu ranging from burgers and pizza to lamb fillet. The coffee (Lavazza) is a decent brew. Book ahead or prepare to wait in summer. On weekend nights it stays open later as a bar.

(%487 1202; www.halldorskaffi.is; Víkurbraut 28; mains Ikr3000-5500; h11am-9pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May)

5Hótel SkógafossICELANDIC €€

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The bistro-bar at Hótel Skógafoss is one of the best eating and drinking spots in town, with plate-glass windows looking onto the falls and local beer on tap.

(%487 8780; www.hotelskogafoss.is; mains Ikr1200-2300; h11am-9.30pm Jun-Sep)

5HellubióINTERNATIONAL €€

This large silver roadhouse with bright potted flowers out front stands out for its simple menu of local food ranging from lobster soup to burgers, plus draught beer, friendly staff and excellent chocolate cake.

(%853 7777; Þrúðvangur 32; mains Ikr2000-5000)

5Eldstó Art CaféCAFE €€

Eldstó offers fresh-brewed coffee, homemade daily specials (like coconut curry soup, and a couple of outdoor Ring Road–side tables. The owners are ceramicists, and also offer accommodation upstairs.

(www.eldsto.is; Austurvegur 2; mains Ikr1390-2700; h8am-10pm Jun-Aug; W)

5Þjórsárstofa RestaurantICELANDIC €€

The Þjórsárstofa in Árnes has a good restaurant with an ever-changing menu of regional cuisine and local beers.

(Matstofan; mains Ikr950-3200; h9am-9pm Jun-Aug; W)

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Local Life

Vestmannaeyjar

The Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) form 15 eye-catching silhouettes off the shore. Heimaey is the only inhabited island, and its town lies between escarpments and volcanoes (part of a 1973 eruption that almost covered the village). Heimaey is famous for its 10 million puffins, the Þjóðhátíð festival and its excellent museum, Eldheimar (Pompeii of the North; GOOGLE MAP ; %488 2000; www.eldheimar.is; Gerðisbraut 10; adult/10-18 years/child Ikr1900/1000/free; h11am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep, reduced hours rest of year). It's a great day trip on ferry Herjólfur (%481 2800; www.eimskip.is; adult/child/car/bicycle Ikr1260/630/2030/630). Slippurinn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %481 1515; www.slippurinn.com; Strandvegur 76; mains Ikr2000-3900; h5.30-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W) serves top meals.

Understand

Landmannalaugar & Þórsmörk Trekking

Mind-blowing multicoloured rhyolite mountains, soothing hot springs, rambling lava flows and clear blue lakes make    Landmannalaugar one of Iceland’s most unique destinations. The area is the starting point for the famous multiday Laugavegurinn hike, and there’s some excellent day hiking as well. The popular 55km Laugavegurinn leads south to the hidden valley of Þórsmörk (thors-mork; literally 'Thor's forest') at the dramatic confluence of several larger river-carved valleys. A nature reserve, Þórsmörk is a verdant realm of forest and flower-filled lees that looks onto curling gorges, icy rivers and three looming glaciers (Tindfjallajökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull). Its lovely setting and proximity to Reykjavík (130km) make it a popular spot in summer. Þórsmörk may seem relatively close to the Ring Road on a map (and it is the better destination for those short on time), but you’ll need to take a bus or go by high-clearance 4WD (super-Jeep tour!) to ford the rivers on the way to the reserve. Or hike in on the Fimmvörðuháls trail from Skógar.

Shopping

7VíkurprjónSOUVENIRS

The big 24-hour souvenir and knitwear shop next to the N1 petrol station in Vík is a coach-tour hit. Swing in to watch woolly jumpers being made on-site.

(Austurvegur 20; h24hr)

Understand

Skaftafell & Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park (www.vjp.is; www.visitvatnajokull.is) is the largest park in Europe, measuring 13,900 sq km – nearly 14% of the entire country. Skaftafell, the jewel in the park's crown, encompasses a breathtaking collection of peaks and glaciers. It’s Iceland’s favourite wilderness: 300,000 visitors per year come to marvel at thundering waterfalls, twisted birch woods, tangled rivers threading across the sandar, and brilliant blue-white Vatnajökull with its enormous ice tongues. There are around 30 of these outlet glaciers, pleated with crevasses, with many visible (and accessible, to varying degrees) from the Ring Road in the southeast.

The great, year-round Skaftafell Visitor Centre (Skaftafellsstofa; %470 8300; www.vjp.is; h8am-9pm Jun-Aug, 9am-7pm May & Sep, 10am-5pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Feb; W) has exhibitions and a small cafe, and information on walks, like the 1.8km one to Svartifoss (Black Falls), a stunning, moody-looking waterfall flanked by geometric black basalt columns. Icelandic Mountain Guides (IMG; %Reykjavík office 5879999, Skaftafell 8942959; www.mountainguide.is) and Glacier Guides (%Reykjavík office 571 2100, Skaftafell 659 7000; www.glacierguides.is) lead glacier walks and adventure tours.

Vatnajökull National Park

WWW.FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/BIRDIGOL/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Top Tip

Book Ahead for Lodging

Moving west from Hvolsvöllur to popular Skógar and Vík, many local farms have pretty, rural guesthouses. It's a beautiful but incredibly popular place to stay, so they get booked solid in summer. Reservations are essential. Look on Icelandic Farm Holidays (www.farmholidays.is) and booking.com for myriad choices. The excellent, free regional map Rangárþing Mýrdalur shows everything (available at tourist offices).

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Top Sights

Jökulsárlón

One of Iceland's most magical sights, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is filled with spectacular, luminous-blue icebergs drifting out to sea. The hours will zip by as you're wowed by wondrous ice sculptures (some striped with ash from volcanic eruptions) as they spin in the changing light; or go scouting for seals or take a boat trip. The icebergs calve from Breiðamerkurjökull, an offshoot of Vatnajökull. Though it's right beside the Ring Road (between Höfn and Skaftafell), it's 375km from Reykjavík, so warrants sleeping over in the south.

Many visit Jökulsárlón.

u Makes overnighting easy.

g Reykjavík–Höfn Sterna bus 12/12A; Strætó bus 51; Reykjavík Excursions bus 15 (Skaftafell Visitor Centre) and bus 19 (Höfn–Skaftafell).

ARCTIC IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

GOOGLE MAP

h24hr

y Top Tips

A Summer nights can be glowing golden.

A On the Ring Road west of the car park, parking areas have trails to less-touristed shoreline.

A Local guide Thor offers glacier hikes (%866 3490; www.icewalk.is; tours Ikr12,500) on Breiðamerkurjökull.

5 Take a Break

The cafe (h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-May) beside the lagoon has snacks. Þórbergssetur (www.thorbergur.is; adult/child Ikr1000/free; h9am-8pm), a museum and cultural centre 12km east of the lagoon, has a quality cafe-restaurant. Accommodation, such as Hali Country Hotel (%478 1073; www.hali.is; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast from Ikr32,200/20,800; W), surrounds it.

Don't Miss

The Lagoon

Although it looks as though it’s been here since the last ice age, the lagoon is only about 80 years old. Until the mid-1930s Breiðamerkurjökull reached the Ring Road; it’s now retreating rapidly (up to a staggering 500m per year), and the lagoon is growing. Icebergs can spend up to five years floating in the 25-sq-km-plus, 260m-deep lagoon before they travel via Jökulsá, Iceland’s shortest river, out to sea.

Boat Tours

Take a memorable 40-minute trip with Glacier Lagoon Amphibious Boat Tours (%478 2222; www.icelagoon.is; adult/child Ikr4000/1000; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Apr-May & Sep-Oct), which trundle along the shore like buses before driving into the water. It also offers Zodiac tours, as does Ice Lagoon Zodiac Boat Tours (%860 9996; www.icelagoon.com; adult/child Ikr6500/4900; h9am-5.30pm mid-May–mid-Sep), which speed up to the glacier edge (not done by the amphibious boats) before cruising back slowly. Check online for details and to book ahead.

Wildlife

Keep a look-out for seals bobbing up in the lagoon between the brilliant bergs. The zooming Arctic terns nest not only on the shore but also on some of the larger ice chunks!

The River Mouth

Visit the river mouth where you’ll see ice boulders resting photogenically on the black-sand beach as part of their final journey out to sea.

West Iceland

Geographically close to Reykjavík yet far, far away in sentiment, west Iceland (Vesturland; www.west.is) is a splendid microcosm of what Iceland has to offer. Snæfellsjökull National Park is great for birding, whale watching, lava-field hiking and horse riding. An exceptional museum in lively Borgarnes illustrates local Sagas. Upcountry beyond Reykholt you'll encounter lava tubes and remote highland glaciers.

ARCTIC IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Regions in a Day

M Spend your morning in Borgarnes learning about Iceland's Viking settlers and wild, wonderful Egil's Saga at the Settlement Centre, and touring the local Saga sites like Egil's farm. Lunch at the Settlement Centre's excellent on-site restaurant or stroll to waterfront cafe Edduveröld for casual eats and great views.

R Next, either head inland to take a tour on enormous Langjökull or in Iceland's largest lava tube Viðgelmir, or zip up the coast to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula to spend your afternoon exploring the Snæfellsjökull National Park and going puffin-spotting and whale-watching on Breiðafjörður.

N Overnight in Stykkishólmur for its top lodgings, restaurants such as Plássið and interesting museums such as Norska Húsið, which you can visit the next day, or catch some theatre at funky Frystiklefinn before heading back to Reykjavík.

Top Experiences

Settlement Centre

Snæfellsjökull National Park

x  Best of West Iceland

Eating

Narfeyrarstofa

Plássið

Natural Wonders

Snæfellsjökull National Park

Viðgelmir

Cave Vatnshellir

Lýsuhólslaug

Museums & Exhibitions

Settlement Centre

Snorrastofa

Getting There

u Car Easiest.

g Bus Borgarnes is the major transfer point between Reykjavík and Akureyri, Snæfellsnes and the Westfjords. Strætó (%540 2700; www.bus.is) bus 57 stops en route to/from Reykjavík and Akureyri. Bus 58 goes to Stykkishólmur; change to bus 82 (Stykkishólmur–Arnarstapi) at the Vatnaleið crossroads to go to western Snæfellsnes. Bus 81 serves Reykholt. Sterna (%551 1166; www.sterna.is) bus 60/60A travels to/from Reykjavík.

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Top Sights

Settlement Centre

Buzzy Borgarnes and its broad Borgarfjörður were the landing zone for several famous Icelandic settlers. Housed in an imaginatively restored warehouse by the harbour, the fascinating Settlement Centre offers insights into the history of Icelandic settlement and brings alive the story of one of the most famous settlers, poet-warrior Egil Skallagrímsson (the man behind Egil’s Saga; see Click here), his amazing adventures and his equally intense family. The centre has also placed cairns throughout town marking key sites from Egil's Saga.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Landnámssetur Íslands; %437 1600; www.settlementcentre.is; Brákarbraut 13-15; 1 exhibition adult/child Ikr1900/1500, 2 exhibitions adult/child Ikr2500/1900; h10am-9pm Jun-Sep, 11am-5pm Oct-May

Wood carving of a character from Egil’s Saga

GARY LATHAM/LONELY PLANET ©

y Top Tips

A The museum is divided into two exhibitions; each take about a half-hour to visit.

A Detailed multilingual audioguides are included.

A Leave time to explore area sites from Egil's Saga.

5 Take a Break

The Settlement Centre has a top-notch restaurant built into the rock face and serving modern Icelandic fare. Or if you feel like strolling the town, the fun waterfront Edduveröld offers a more casual cafe vibe, but equally delicious eats, and has art galleries on an upper storey.

Don't Miss

Settlement Exhibition

The Settlement Exhibition vividly covers the discovery and settlement of Iceland and gives a firm historical context in which to place your Icelandic visit. The interactive map illustrating where the first settlers made inroads is particularly fun, and the audioguide's recounting of settlers' stories illustrates how harsh it all was.

Egil's Saga Exhibition

Egil's Saga is one of the most nuanced and action-packed of the Sagas, and the exhibition uses creative art and diorama displays to recount how poet-warrior Egil Skallagrímsson's family settled the Borgarnes area, and how Egil became both a fierce and sensitive man, from his near murder by his own father to the death of his own sons.

Local Landmarks

To explore how Egil's Saga ties to the Borgarnes area, download the detailed Locatify SmartGuide (www.locatify.com; included in Settlement Centre admission, otherwise €15) smartphone or iPad app. It tells stories of local landmarks which the Settlement Centre has marked with cairns, including Brákin ( GOOGLE MAP ), Egil's farm Borg á Mýrum, and Skallagrímsgarður ( GOOGLE MAP ), the burial mound of Egil's father and son.

Egil's Farm

Borg á Mýrum (Rock in the Marshes; GOOGLE MAP ), just northwest of Borgarnes on Rte 54, is where Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, Egil's father, made his farm at Settlement. Named for the large rock (borg) behind the farmstead (private property), you can walk up to the cairn, for super views. The small cemetery includes an ancient rune-inscribed gravestone. Ásmundur Sveinsson's sculpture represents Egil mourning the death of his sons and his rejuvenation in poetry.

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Top Sights

Snæfellsjökull National Park

Sparkling fjords, dramatic volcanic peaks, sheer sea cliffs, sweeping golden beaches and crunchy lava flows make up the diverse and fascinating landscape of the 100km-long Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The area is crowned by the glistening ice cap Snæfellsjökull, immortalised in Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth (1864). Snæfellsjökull National Park encompasses much of the peninsula's western tip. You'll find lava tubes, protected lava fields home to native Icelandic fauna, and prime coastal bird- and whale-watching spots.

%436 6860; www.snaefellsjokull.is

The coastline at Hellnar

KRISTIAN BELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Good roads (and buses) mean that Snæfellsnes is an easy trip from Reykjavík.

A Even with increasing Reykjavík day tours, you’re likely to have much of this region to yourself.

A Stykkishólmur, on the peninsula's populated northern coast, is the region’s largest town and a good base for overnighting.

A Even the well-trained and -outfitted are not allowed to ascend the glacier without a local guide; contact the National Park Visitor Centre in Hellnar, or take a tour.

A Snæfellsnes' quiet southern coast has horse farms beneath towering crags.

5 Take a Break

Hellnar Visitor Centre has the small, welcoming Primus Café (%865 6740; Hellnar Visitor Centre; mains Ikr1390-1980; h10am-9pm) for simple meals. Fjöruhúsið, by the rocky waterfront, serves soups and coffees with a wonderful view over seabird nests and the shore.

Don't Miss

Hellnar Visitor Centre & Hikes

Hiking trails criss-cross the park, and the Visitor Centre (Snæfellsjökull National Park Visitor Centre; %591 2000, 436 6888; www.snaefellsjokull.is; h10am-5pm late May–early Sep, reduced hours rest of year) in Hellnar sells maps (free online) and gives advice (as do area tourist offices). Rangers have summer programs of free guided tours. The centre has a museum on park history and wildlife.

Snæfellsjökull

It’s easy to see why Jules Verne chose Snæfell for his adventure Journey to the Centre of the Earth: the peak was torn apart when the volcano beneath exploded. Today the crater is filled with the ice cap (highest point 1446m; jökull means 'glacier'). To reach its summit take a tour from Hellnar or Arnarstapi.

Öndverðarnes

At the westernmost tip of Snæfellsnes an ancient lava flow leads to Öndverðarnes Peninsula, great for whale watching. From the last parking area (at a squat, orange lighthouse), walk to the tip of the peninsula, or head 200m northeast to Fálkí, an ancient stone well thought to have three waters: fresh, holy and ale! The Svörtuloft bird cliffs (Saxhólsbjarg) are to the south.

Djúpalón Beach & Dritvík

On the southwest coast, wild black-sand beach Djúpalónssandur offers dramatic walks with rock formations (an elf church and kerling, a troll woman!), shipwreck debris and the rock-arch Gatklettur. Rocky sea stacks emerge from the ocean as you tramp north over the craggy headland to reach black-sand Dritvík, once the largest Icelandic fishing station, now lonely ruins.

Understand

Egil's Saga

Icelanders hold west Iceland in high regard for its canon of local Sagas. The famous Egil's Saga starts with the tale of Kveldúlfur, grandfather of warrior-poet Egil Skallagrímsson (sometimes spelt Egill), who fled to Iceland during the 9th century after a falling out with Norway's king. Kveldúlfur grew ill on the journey, and instructed his son, Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, to throw his coffin overboard after he died and build the family farm wherever it washed ashore – this happened to be at Borg á Mýrum (Rock in the Marshes). Egil Skallagrímsson grew up to be a fierce and creative individual who killed his first adversary at the age of seven, went on to carry out numerous raids on Ireland, England and Denmark, and saved his skin many a time by composing eloquent poetry. Learn about him at Borgarnes' Settlement Centre.

It is thought that one of the most important medieval chieftains and scholars, Snorri Sturluson (1179–1241), may have written    Egil's Saga. The Snorrastofa museum explores his legacy in sleepy inland hamlet, Reykholt.

Top Experiences

Snæfellsjökull National Park  A3

Experiences

1Breiðafjörður  C1

2Kirkjufell  C2

3Norska Húsið  E1

4Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum  D2

Volcano Museum  E1

5 Eating

5Fjöruhúsið  B3

6Gamla Rif  B2

7Hótel Hellissandur Restaurant  A2

8Hraun  B2

Hótel Hellnar Restaurant  B3

Narfeyrarstofa  E1

Plássið  E1

Sjávarpakkhúsið  E1

7 Shopping

Leir 7  E1

Experiences

1BreiðafjörðurFJORD

GOOGLE MAP

Stykkishólmur’s jagged peninsula pushes north into stunning Breiðafjörður, a broad waterway separating the Snæfellsnes from the looming cliffs of the distant Westfjords. According to local legend, there are only two things in the world that cannot be counted: the stars in the night sky and the craggy islets in the bay. You can count on epic vistas and a menagerie of wild birds (puffins, eagles, guillemots etc). Take boat trips, including whale watching and puffin viewing, from Stykkishólmur, Grundarfjörður and Ólafsvík.

1KirkjufellMOUNTAIN

Kirkjufell (463m), guardian of Grundarfjörður’s northern vista, is said to be one of the most photographed spots in Iceland. You'll see Ben Stiller skateboarding past in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013). Ask the Saga Centre if you want to climb it (around €40 for a guide). Two spots involving a rope climb make it dangerous to scale when wet or without local knowledge.

Kirkjufell is backed by the roaring waterfalls, Kirkjufellsfoss; more camera fodder.

Kirkjufell

RAMÓN M. COVELO/GETTY IMAGES ©

1ViðgelmirLAVA TUBE

The easiest lava tube to visit, and the largest in Iceland, 1100-year-old, 1.5km-long Viðgelmir is located on private property near the farmstead Fljótstunga. It sparkles with ever-changing ice formations. You can't visit on your own, but the friendly family at Fljótstunga (%435 1198; www.fljotstunga.is; sites per person Ikr1000, cottages from Ikr8000; W) offers 90-minute tours at 10am, noon, 3pm and 5pm May to August, and by reservation in September to April. Helmet and torch included.

(%8654060; www.fljotstunga.is; tours Ikr3000; hMay-Sep)

1Norska HúsiðMUSEUM

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Stykkishólmur’s quaint maritime charm comes from the cluster of wooden warehouses, shops and homes orbiting the town’s harbour. Most date back about 150 years. One of the most interesting (and oldest) is the Norska Húsið, now the regional museum. Built by trader and amateur astronomer Árni Thorlacius in 1832, the house has been skilfully restored and displays a wonderfully eclectic selection of local antiquities. On the 2nd floor you visit Árni’s home, an upper-class 19th-century residence, decked out in his original wares.

The museum also hosts occasional art exhibitions.

(Norwegian House; %433 8114; www.norskahusid.is; Hafnargata 5; admission Ikr800; hnoon-5pm Jun-Aug)

Top Experiences

Settlement Centre  B4

Experiences

1Viðgelmir  D3

2Langjökull Ice Cave  D3

3Snorrastofa  C3

5 Eating

4Settlement Centre Restaurant  B4

Edduveröld  B4

7 Shopping

5Ullarselið  B4

Ljómalind  B4

1Langjökull Ice CaveCAVE

At the time of research, work was under way on digging an enormous 300m-long tunnel and series of caves, at 1260m above sea level, into Langjökull glacier. Slated to open in May 2015, the tunnel and caves will contain exhibitions, a cafe and a small chapel – yes, for those who want to tie the knot inside a glacier. Tours can be had (March to October) from Húsafell or the glacier edge (Ikr17,900), or from Reykjavík (Ikr29,900) with the possibility of looping in the Golden Circle.

(www.icecave.is; hMar-Oct)

1SnorrastofaMUSEUM

The interesting medieval study centre Snorrastofa is devoted to celebrated medieval poet, historian and statesman Snorri Sturluson, and is built on his old farm, where he was brutally slain. The centre houses displays explaining Snorri's life and accomplishments, including a 1599 edition of his Heimskringla (sagas of the Norse kings). There's also material on the laws, literature and society of medieval Iceland, and on the excavations of the site. You can ask to see the modern church and reading room upstairs.

(%433 8000; www.snorrastofa.is; admission Ikr1200; h10am-6pm May-Aug, to 5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr)

1Bjarnarhöfn Shark MuseumMUSEUM

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The farmstead at Bjarnarhöfn is the region’s leading producer of hákarl (fermented shark meat), a traditional Icelandic dish. The museum has exhibits on the history of this culinary curiosity, along with the family's fishing boats and processing tools. A video explains the butchering and fermenting procedure: Greenland shark, which is used to make hákarl, is poisonous if eaten fresh. Fermentation neutralises the toxin. NB: Greenland shark is classified as Near Threatened.

Find the museum off Rte 54 on the fjord-side, northeastern edge of Berserkjahraun.

Each visit to the museum comes with a bracing nibble of hákarl, accompanied by brennivín, 'black death' schnapps. Ask about the drying house out back. You might find hundreds of dangling shark slices drying; the last step in the process.

(%438 1581; www.bjarnarhofn.is; admission Ikr1000; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May)

1Volcano MuseumMUSEUM

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The Volcano Museum, housed in the old cinema in Stykkishólmur, is the brainchild of vulcanologist Haraldur Sigurðsson, and features art depicting volcanoes, plus a small collection of interesting lava ('magma bombs'!) and artefacts from eruptions. A film screens upstairs. You can book a full-day geology tour (Ikr17,000) around the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with Haraldur.

(Eldfjallasafn; %433 8154; www.eldfjallasafn.is; Aðalgata 8; adult/child Ikr800/free; h11am-5pm May-Sep)

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Top Tip

Tours

A Láki Tours (%546 6808; www.lakitours.com) Puffins, whales and fishing from Grundarfjörður or Ólafsvík.

A Seatours (Sæferðir; GOOGLE MAP ; %433 2254; www.seatours.is; Smiðjustígur 3; h8am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-May) Boat tours, including much-touted 'Viking Sushi', around Breiðafjörður.

A Iceland Ocean Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %517 5555; www.icelandoceantours.is; Hafnargata 4; tours from Ikr5200, bicycle hire per day Ikr3000; hApr-Sep) Zodiac cruises around Breiðafjörður.

A Go West! (%695 9995; www.gowest.is) Biking, hiking and glacier tours.

A Snæfellsjökull Glacier Tours (%663 3371; www.theglacier.is; snowcat/snowmobile tours Ikr11,000/25,000; hMar-Jul) Snowcats/snowmobiles on Snæfellsjökull.

* Lýsuhóll ( GOOGLE MAP ; %435 6716; www.lysuholl.is; d/q incl breakfast Ikr18,500/30,000, cottage Ikr20,000) and Stóri Kambur (%852 7028; www.storikambur.is) Horse riding in southern Snæfellsnes.

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Local Life

Lava & Lore

Run by Cave Vatnshellir (%665 2818; www.vatnshellir.is; tours adult/child Ikr2500/1000), much-loved 45-minutes tours of the 8000-year old Vatnshellir lava tube shed light on fascinating local geological phenomena and the region’s troll-filled lore. Dress warmly, wear hiking boots and preferably gloves. They also offer glacier tours.

Eating

5NarfeyrarstofaICELANDIC €€

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This charming restaurant in Stykkishólmur, run by an award-winning chef known for his superlative desserts, is the Snæfellsnes’ darling fine-dining destination. Book a table on the 2nd floor to dine under gentle eaves and the romantic lighting of antique lamps. Ask your waiter about the portraits on the wall – the building has an interesting history.

(%438 1119; www.narfeyrarstofa.is; Aðalgata 3; mains Ikr3600-5100; hnoon-10pm Apr–mid-Oct, 6-10pm Sat & Sun mid-Oct–Mar; v)

5Settlement Centre RestaurantINTERNATIONAL €€

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The Settlement Centre’s restaurant, in a light-filled room built into the rock face, is airy, upbeat and one of the region's best bets for food. Choose from traditional Icelandic and international eats (lamb, fish stew etc). The lunch buffet (noon to 3pm; Ikr2100) is very popular. Book ahead for dinner.

(%437 1600; Brákarbraut 13; mains Ikr2400-5600; h10am-9pm; W)

5PlássiðICELANDIC, BISTRO €€

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The newest creation of the owners of Narfeyrarstofa, this bistro-style old-town building in Stykkishólmur is a perfect family-friendly spot, with elegant touches (wine glasses, mod furnishings) and friendly service. Using local ingredients, they serve up a full run of regional specials, and the catch of the day is usually delicious, paired with salad or barley risotto. Local beers, too.

(%436 1600; www.plassid.is; Frúarstígur 1; mains Ikr1400-4200; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm; vc)

5EdduveröldCAFE €€

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Casual and friendly, with a wonderful waterfront deck, Edduveröld is the newest entry in Borgarnes for delicious homemade dishes, from super cakes to full meals of roast lamb or fresh fish.

(%437 1455; www.edduverold.is; Skúlgata 17; mains Ikr700-4200; h10am-9pm Sat-Thu, to 1am Fri; Wv)

5FjöruhúsiðSEAFOOD, CAFE €€

It’s well worth following the stone path down to the ocean’s edge for the renowned fish soup at beautifully situated, quaint Fjöruhúsið in Hellnar. Located by the bird cliffs at the trailhead of the scenic Hellnar–Arnarstapi path, it also serves coffee in sweet, old-fashioned china.

(%435 6844; mains Ikr2300-2800, cake Ikr950; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Apr-May & Sep-Oct)

5Gamla RifCAFE €

Gamla Rif is run by two fishermen’s wives who have perfected a variety of traditional snacks. They dispense local travel tips with a smile, and serve tasty coffee and cakes. They also make a mean fish soup (from their husbands’ daily catch) with fresh bread, if you’re feeling peckish.

(%436 1001; Háarifi 3; cakes from Ikr850, fish soup Ikr1900; hnoon-8pm Jun-Aug)

5Hótel Hellissandur RestaurantICELANDIC €€

Hótel Hellissandur boasts a friendly staff running its consistently yummy restaurant, which serves Icelandic staples, plus burgers and the like.

(%430 8600; www.hotelhellissandur.is; Klettsbuð 7; mains Ikr1790-4900; h11.30am-9.30pm Jun-Sep)

5Hótel Hellnar RestaurantICELANDIC €€

Even if you’re not overnighting at Hótel Hellnar, we highly recommend having dinner at its restaurant, which sources local organic produce for its Icelandic menu, plus offers heavenly skyr cake for dessert. Reserve ahead.

(dinner mains Ikr3450-4950; h6-9.30pm May-Sep)

5HraunINTERNATIONAL €€

This new establishment on the main road in Ólafsvík cheerfully fills a blonde-wood building with a broad front deck. The only gig in town besides fast food, it does excellent fresh mussels, burgers and fish, and has beer on tap.

(%431 1030; Grundarbraut 2; mains Ikr2000-5000; hnoon-midnight daily Jun-Aug, noon-2pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Sun Sep-May; W)

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Local Life

Favourite Trails: Between Arnarstapi & Hellnar

Local maps detail myriad hiking trails connecting the sights of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. One of the most popular (and scenic!) is the 2.5km coastal walk (around 40 minutes) between Hellnar and Arnarstapi. This slender trail follows the jagged coastline, going through a Nature Reserve and passing lava flows and eroded stone caves. In tumultuous weather waves spray through the rocky arches; when its fine, look for nesting seabirds.

Drinking

6SjávarpakkhúsiðCAFE, BAR

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This old fish-packing house in Stykkishólmur has been transformed into a wood-lined cafe-bar with harbourfront outdoor seating. The speciality is blue-shell mussels straight from the bay, but it's also a great daytime hang-out. On weekend evenings it turns into a popular bar where locals come to jam.

(%438 1800; Hafnargata 2; mains Ikr2750-5000; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May; W)

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Local Life

A Climb & a Soak

A favourite Snæfellsnes hike is up roadside scoria crater Saxhöll, which was responsible for some of the lava on the western side of the peninsula. From the base it’s an uneven 300m climb for magnificent views over the enormous Neshraun lava flows. Then head east over to Lýsuhólslaug ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission Ikr550; h1-8pm Jun–mid-Aug), where a geothermal source pumps in carbonated, mineral-filled waters at a perfect 37°C to 39°C. Don’t be alarmed that the pool is a murky green: the iron-rich water attracts some serious algae.

Entertainment

FrystiklefinnHOSTEL €

This quirky new joint combines austere six-bed dorms with a cool theatre and live-music venue. In summer there's an active program of plays, storytelling and music. Check online for the schedule, and for winter opening.

(%865 9432; www.frystiklefinn.is; Hafnargata 16; dm Ikr4600)

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Local Life

Stykkishólmur

The charming town of Stykkishólmur, the largest on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, is built around a natural harbour tipped by a basalt islet. It’s a picturesque place with a laid-back attitude and a sprinkling of brightly coloured buildings from the late 19th century, featured in Ben Stiller's The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013). With a comparatively good choice of accommodation and restaurants, and transport links, Stykkishólmur makes an excellent base for exploring the region.

Stykkishólmur harbour

GUNNAR EIRIKUR HAUKSSON ©

Shopping

7LjómalindMARKET

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A recent collaboration between local producers, this packed farmers market sits at the edge of Borgarnes near the roundabout. It stocks everything from fresh dairy products from Erpsstaðir (%843 0357; www.erpsstadir.is; admission to cowshed adult/child Ikr600/free; h1-5pm Jun–mid-Sep; c) and organic meat to locally made bath products, handmade wool sweaters, jewellery and all manner of imaginative collectables.

(Farmers' Market; %437 1400; www.ljomalind.is; Sólbakka 2; h11am-6pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours rest of year)

7UllarseliðCLOTHING, ARTS & CRAFTS

Find your way to off-the-beaten path village Hvanneyri, 12km east of Borgarnes, and in among fjord-side homes you'll find this fantastic wool centre. Handmade sweaters, scarves, hats and blankets share space with skeins of beautiful handspun yarn, and interesting bone and shell buttons. Plus there are needles and patterns to get you started.

(%437 0077; www.ull.is; Hvanneyri; hnoon-6pm Jun-Aug, 1-5pm Thu-Sat Sep-May)

7Leir 7ARTS & CRAFTS

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Artist Sigriður Erla produces tableware from the fjord's dark clay at this pottery studio in the heart of Stykkishólmur.

(www.leir7.is; Aðalgata 20; h2-5pm)

Traditional Icelandic woollen sweaters

ANNAPURNA MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

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The Best of

Reykjavík and Around

Historic Reykjavik

Reykjavik Art & Design

Eating

Cafes & Bars

Museums, Exhibitions & Galleries

Tours

Natural Wonders

With Kids

Shopping

Festivals

For Free

2

Best Walks

Historic Reykjavík

2The Walk

The earliest signs of settlement in Reykjavík date to just before 871 and are centred in the Old Reykjavík quarter. Norwegian Viking Ingólfur Arnarson is credited with being the country’s first permanent inhabitant. He made his home in a promising-looking bay that he named Reykjavík (Smoky Bay), after the steam from its thermal springs. This walk takes in the highlights of Ingólfur's historic neighbourhood and brings you to the National Museum, Iceland's premier repository of historic art and artefacts.

Start Kraum

Finish National Museum

Length 1.6km; 1½ hours

5Take a Break

Stop for a coffee on Austurvöllur square, or across the street at smart bistro Nora Magasin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %578 2010; Pósthússtræti 9; mains Ikr1900-2500; h11.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat), for a quick tipple or a more substantial meal. Celebrity chef Völundur Völundarson conceived the creative menu.

1 Kraum

Reykjavík’s oldest timber house dates to 1762, and sits on Aðalstræti, one of the capital's oldest streets. The house is now home to Kraum, one of the first stores showcasing Icelandic art and design.

2 Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition

Beneath Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition lies a 10th-century Viking longhouse, discovered and excavated in 2001 when the hotel next door was renovated. Curators have recreated the dimly lit mood of the longhouse but have tricked it out with multimedia displays bringing the era to life.

3 Skúli Magnússon Statue

Across from the Settlement Exhibition, there's a statue of powerful town magistrate-sheriff Skúli Magnússon (1711–94), who organised the building of weaving, tanning and wool-dyeing factories in the capital – the foundations of the modern city of Reykjavík.

4 Austurvöllur

Grassy Austurvöllur was once part of settler Ingólfur Arnarson’s hay fields. It sits next to the Alþingi (parliament) and in its centre there's a statue of Jón Sigurðsson (1811–79), who led the campaign for Icelandic independence. The adjacent cathedral, Dómkirkja, was built in the 18th century.

5 Iðnó

As you approach the lake Tjörnin, you'll see the waterside Ráðhús (city hall). Inside there's a fun topographical map of Iceland. Iðnó (Iðnaðarmannahúsið; The Craftsmen’s House) was designed and built by Einar Pálsson in 1896 and was the city's main meeting hall, and for many years a theatre.

6 Around Tjörnin

As you make your way around Tjörnin, called the 'Pond' by locals, you'll pass the quaint church, Fríkirkjan í Reykjavík, the National Gallery of Iceland and Hljómskálagarður Park, which contains sculptures by five historic Icelandic artists.

7 National Museum

End your walk at the top-notch National Museum, tracing human history in Iceland, from the earliest settlement to the modern era. There are also rotating photographic exhibits and a welcoming cafe.

Fríkirkjan í Reykjavík & the National Gallery of Iceland

MARK SALTER/ALAMY ©

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Best Walks

Reykjavík Art & Design

2The Walk

Icelanders have a knack for piquant, arresting art and design. The city is littered with local creations, including modernist architecture, cool contemporary art, and shops full of functional but creative crafts and design gadgets. This walk takes you through a sampling of the disciplines, all in a compact, popular section of central Reykjavík.

Start Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir

Finish Harpa concert hall

Length 3km; two hours

5Take a Break

Stop for a delicious, organic meal at Gló ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %553 1111; www.glo.is; Laugavegur 20b; mains Ikr1700-2500; h11am-9pm; Wv), where the menu changes daily and is accompanied by a broad bar of intricate and flavourful salads. A colourful crew of locals crowds in for popular lunches, and plenty of bars and coffee shops sit just nearby.

1 Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir

The angular glass-and-wood Kjarvalsstaðir looks onto Miklatún Park, and is named for Jóhannes Kjarval (1885–1972), one of Iceland’s most popular classical artists. The peaceful museum displays not only his wonderfully evocative landscapes but also the works of many major 20th-century Icelandic painters.

2 Einar Jónsson Museum

Einar Jónsson (1874–1954) was one of Iceland’s foremost sculptors, with his dramatic allegorical style. The Einar Jónsson Museum fills the studio he designed. Upper stories have city views, the sculpture garden behind it is free.

3 Hallgrímskirkja

Guðjón Samúelsson (1887–1950), perhaps Iceland's most renowned 20th-century architect, created a distinctive Icelandic aesthetic. Reykjavík's Hallgrímskirkja (built 1945–86) is perhaps the pinnacle of his work. Pop around the corner to classic 1937 swimming pool, Sundhöllin, to see another example.

4 Design Shops

Icelandic artists and designers create many objects that combine beauty and practicality. Laugavegur is loaded with shops selling designers' work. To the east, Kiosk is a couture cooperative. KronKron has top clothes, but their handmade shoes are off the charts. Leynibuðin sells hip locally crafted apparel. To the west, tiny Skúma Skot is packed with unique handmade art and clothing.

5 Art

Walk to the ocean's edge for the popular Sun-Craft sculpture, stopping off at Kling & Bang, one of the city's top galleries for emerging artists. Sun-Craft itself was created by Jón Gunnar Árnason, and its skeletal ship-like frame sits powerfully along the water, with snow-topped mountains in the distance.

6 Harpa Concert Hall

Reykjavík's dazzling Harpa concert hall, with its facade of glimmering hexagons, opened in 2011 and was designed by Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects, Icelandic firm Batteríið Architects, and Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Be sure to zip inside to see its vaulted glass panels and wonderful harbour sightlines.

Harpa concert hall

KLAUS LANG/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Best

Eating

Yes, Icelanders love hot dogs, and there are boundary-pushing dishes like fermented shark or sheep's head. But the spotlight shines brightest on Iceland's delicious, fresh-from-the-farm ingredients, seafood bounty hauled from its icy waters, innovative dairy products (hello, skyr!) or the clever historic food-preserving techniques that are finding new favour with today's much-feted New Nordic chefs.

Food Culture

Reykjavík is not only the political but also the culinary capital of Iceland. Choices range from a vibrant cafe-bar scene, where effortlessly cool Reykjavikers hang out sipping fine coffees and munching sandwiches, cakes and waffles, to top-of-the-heap New Nordic restaurants, taking Icelandic cuisine to its most rarefied extremes.

Icelandic Specialities

If you see a queue in Reykjavík, it probably ends at a pýlsur (hot dog) stand. Fiskisúpa (fish soup) comes courtesy of family recipes, while kjötsúpa (meat soup) will usually feature veggies and chunks of lamb. Icelandic lamb is hard to beat, with free range sheep munching chemical-free grasses and herbs in the highlands and valleys.

In the past, Icelanders merely kept the cheeks and tongues of þorskur (cod) – a delicacy – and exported the rest, but today you’ll commonly find cod fillets on the menu, along with ýsa (haddock), bleikja (Arctic char) and meaty-textured skötuselur (monkfish). During the summer you can try silungur (freshwater trout) and villtur lax (wild salmon).

You'll also see wild-caught animals such whale, hákarl (fermented shark), reindeer and lundi (puffin; although this is a rarer sight these days following a worrying crash in puffin numbers).

Don’t miss skyr, a delicious yoghurt-like concoction made from pasteurised skimmed milk.

yTop Tips

A Reserve ahead in summer for top restaurants.

A Even in summer, restaurants may stop serving around 9pm.

A When it comes to whale, puffin and shark, be aware that there are conservation issues (see boxed text, Click here).

A The price difference between an exceptional restaurant and an average one is sometimes small, so it can be well worth going upmarket.

NEIL JOHN SMITH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Food on the Go

Bæjarins Beztu Reykavík's most legendary hot-dog stand.

Lobster Hut Get your lobster (langoustine, really) on the go…as a sandwich or salad.

Soup Car Piping hot lamb stew and vegan soup next to Hallgrímskirkja.

Walk the Plank Crab sliders portside in the Old Harbour.

Hamborgara Búllan Reykjavík's favourite burgers.

Best Fine Dining

Dill One of Reykjavík's finest restaurants, in a wonderfully intimate small bistro space.

Þrír Frakkar Top Icelandic dishes in a cosy dining room.

Grillmarkaðurinn Trendy and tops for steaks and grilled fish.

Fiskfélagið Fresh Icelandic seafood flavoured with far-out spices.

Fiskmarkaðurinn Exquisite Icelandic tasting menus in a historic house.

Kolabrautin Icelandic meets Italian atop Harpa concert hall.

Best Restaurants Outside of Reykjavík

Narfeyrarstofa Stykkishólmur's top table, run by an award-winning chef.

Plássið Stykkishólmur's more casual bistro-style restaurant, with reliably delicious seafood and burgers.

Lindin Lakeside in Laugarvatn, with fantastic wild-caught mains: try the reindeer burger.

Slippurinn In Heimaey, Vestmannaeyjar, with a lively vibe, overlooking the harbour.

Silfra Near Þingvellir, slow-food local ingredients and a bar with floor-to-ceilng plate glass windows.

Gamla Fjósið West of Skógar, in an old cowshed, with farm-raised beef.

Best Local

Tiú Droppar The 'Ten Drops' effortessly combines cafe, bar and restaurant.

Ostabúðin Open only for lunch, the 'Cheese Shop' dishes up the owner's catch of the day.

Grái Kötturinn Tiny, hard to find, but great for breakfasts and brunch.

Við Fjöruborðið Oceanside seafood in Stokkseyri with yummy lobster bisque.

Vitabar Scrumptious burgers and a pint in a Reykjavík neighbourhood bar.

Best Veg-Organic

Gló Fresh, organic and loaded with tasty herbs and spices.

Grænn Kostur Daily menu of organic and vegan specialities.

Grillmarkaðurinn

ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY ©

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Best

Cafes & Bars

The city’s ratio of coffeehouses and bars to citizens is nothing short of staggering. Handcrafted caffeine hits and designer microbrews are prepared with the utmost seriousness for accidental hipsters sporting well-worn lopapeysur (Icelandic woollen sweaters). In fact, the local social scene is built around low-key cafes that crank up the intensity after hours, when tea is swapped for tipples and dance moves break out.

Best Cafes

Babalú Great for tasty baked goods and a kitschy vibe.

Reykjavík Roasters Premier coffee aficionados roast their own beans.

Kaffi Mokka One of the capital's oldest cafes with an approachable, well-worn feel.

Café Haiti In the Old Harbour, with coffee sourced from Haiti.

C is for Cookie Tiny and in a relaxed residential neighbourhood, it's totally untouristy.

Best Cocktail Bars

Loftið Top-shelf all the way, with a jazzy retro feel.

Slippbarinn Old Harbour's top fancy drinks place, with food too.

Best Local

Kaffibarinn A Reykjavík institution, chilled by day, packed on weekend nights.

Kaldi Effortlessly cool with its own microbrews on tap.

Prikið A quintessential dive bar with good stick-to-your-ribs diner food.

Boston The arty crowd hangs out here, above Laugavegur.

Dillon Rock bar with frequent live music.

Best Streetside People-Watching

Bravó Local beer on tap and good happy hours on a busy Laugavegur corner.

Café Paris On the edge of Old Reykjavík's Austurvöllur square; grab a drink and watch the action.

Best Beer Selection

Micro Bar Rotating selection of 10 beers on tap, and a good happy hour.

Best Late-Night

Húrra Six beers on tap and an enormous back room that opens up for live music most nights.

Paloma After-hours dancing, DJs and a pool table.

ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY

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Museums, Exhibitions & Galleries

Best Art Museums

Reykjavík Art Museum Three wonderful branches included in one ticket: large, downtown Hafnarhús focusing on contemporary art; Kjarvalsstaðir with 20th-century art; and Ásmundarsafn for sculptures by Ásmundur Sveinsson.

National Gallery of Iceland Constantly changing lakeside collection of Iceland's finest artists.

Reykjavík Museum of Photography Annual exhibitions of primarily Scandinavian photography.

Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Oceanside sculpture with sea breezes, totem poles and busts.

Best History Museums

National Museum All of Iceland's best artefacts gathered under one well-curated roof.

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: The Settlement Exhibition Excellent multimedia exhibits and an excavated Viking longhouse.

Settlement Centre Borgarnes' interesting examination of Settlement and one of the sagas of the time, Egil's Saga.

Sögusetrið Hvolsvöllur's museum dedicated to the local Njál’s Saga.

Snorrastofa Reykholt farmstead of celebrated medieval poet, historian and statesman Snorri Sturluson.

Best Off-Beat Museums & Exhibitions

Icelandic Phallological Museum Fascinating, yes fascinating, array of Icelandic penises – all of the mammals are represented.

Draugasetrið Goulish haunted house in Stokkseyri, with spooky tales and dried ice.

Saga Museum Silicon models and dioramas bringing the gory, thrilling hijinks of Settlement to life.

Best Natural Phenomena

Volcano House Watch movies of Icelandic volcanoes erupting.

Aurora Reykjavík Learn about and watch a simulation of the Northern Lights.

Best Art Galleries

i8 Famous Icelandic and international contemporary artists.

Kling & Bang Young up-and-comers in the art world.

EDUCATION IMAGES/UIG VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

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Tours

Reykjavík makes a superb base camp for loads of regional tours to the wild outdoors. Whether you're simply not up for renting your own wheels, or you want to head to areas that require expert guidance or serious equipment, you'll find a tour to suit almost any timeframe, need or skill level. Many regional operators also pick up from Reykjavík.

Reykjavík Tours

The tourist office has free maps and self-guided walking tour brochures, and info on guided walking tours. The hardcore can buy the more in-depth Reykjavík Walks (Guðjón Friðriksson; 2014) at local bookshops. There are several downloadable smartphone apps, including two by Locatify (www.locatify.com).

Our Whale Watching feature (Click here) lists top whale- and puffin-spotting tours in Reykjavík.

yTop Tips

A Many companies offer all sorts of tours in myriad combinations: whale watching, bus tours, super-Jeep tours, city walks, snow mobiling, horse riding, rafting, glacier walking, guided treks and so on. Check online with each company for its full menu.

A Many operators offer hotel pick-up and drop-off.

A If you want to head far afield, plan a night or two outside of Reykjavík so you don't spend loads of time back-and-forthing on buses.

GRADY COPPELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Reykjavík Tours

Literary Reykjavík ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bokmenntaborgin.is; Tryggvagata 15; h3pm Thu Jun-Aug) Part of the Unesco City of Literature initiative, literary walking tours of the centre start at the main library. Downloadable Literary Reykjavík app.

Free Walking Tour Reykjavik ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.freewalkingtour.is; hnoon & 2pm Jun-Aug, reduced in winter) One-hour, 1.5km walking tour of the centre, departing from the little clock tower on Lækjartorg Square.

City Sightseeing Reykjavík (%580 5400; www.city-sightseeing.com; adult/child Ikr3500/1750; hhourly 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep) Hop-on, hop-off bus taking in all major sights around town starting at Harpa.

Best Bicycle Tours

Reykjavík Bike Tours & Segway Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %694 8956; www.icelandbike.com; Ægisgarður 7, Old Harbour; bike rental per 4hr from Ikr3500, tours from Ikr5500; h9am-5pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Bike hire and tours of Reykjavík and countryside.

Bike Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %590 8550; www.bikecompany.is; Bankastræti 2; bike rental per 5hr Ikr3500; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Bicycle tours and hire, with other outlets at Icelandic Travel Market and Trip travel agencies.

Best Bus Tours

Reykjavík Excursions (Kynnisferðir; GOOGLE MAP ; %580 5400; www.re.is; Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, BSÍ Bus Terminal) Most popular bus operator. Large groups and an enormous booklet of summer and winter programs, including loads of activities.

Iceland Excursions (Gray Line Iceland; GOOGLE MAP ; %540 1313; www.grayline.is; Hafnarstræti 20) Large groups on comprehensive day trips.

Sterna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 1166; www.sterna.is; Harpa Concert Hall; h7am-6.30pm) More modest-sized operator.

Gateway to Iceland (%534 4446; www.gatewaytoiceland.is) Smaller groups and good guides.

Go Green (%694 9890; www.gogreen.is) Small and high-end with methanol-fuelled vehicles and sustainable practices.

Best Adventure Tours

Arctic Adventures ( GOOGLE MAP ; %562 7000; www.adventures.is; Laugavegur 11; h8am-10pm) Young, enthusiastic action-filled tours: kayaking, rafting, horse riding, quad bikes, glacier walks etc.

Icelandic Mountain Guides (%587 9999; www.mountainguides.is; Stórhöfði 33) Full-action outfit specialising in mountaineering, trekking, ice climbing and the like.

Mountaineers of Iceland (%580 9900; www.mountaineers.is) Excellent, knowledgable guides. Lots of super-Jeep, super-truck and snowmobiling tours, including heli-snowmobiling.

Inside the Volcano (%863 6640; www.insidethevolcano.com; admission Ikr37,000; hmid-May–Sep) Amazing trip into a perfectly intact 4000-year-old magma chamber.

Best Horse-Riding Tours

Eldhestar (%480 4800; www.eldhestar.is; Vellir, Hveragerði) Near Hveragerði, established horse farm; rides on surrounding grasslands.

Íshestar (%555 7000; www.ishestar.is; Sörlaskeið 26, Hafnarfjörður) One of the largest, oldest stables with well-organised trots through lava fields.

Laxnes (%566 6179; www.laxnes.is; Mosfellsbær) Small and family-owned with relaxed rides on the way out to Þingvellir.

Best Air Tours

Eagle Air Iceland ( GOOGLE MAP ; %562 4200; www.eagleair.is; Reykjavík Domestic Airport) Sightseeing flights over volcanoes and glaciers.

Air Iceland (%570 3030; www.airiceland.is; Reykjavík Domestic Airport) Combination air, bus, hiking, rafting, horse-riding, whale-watching and glacier day tours around Iceland.

Atlantsflug (%854 4105; www.flightseeing.is; Reykjavík Domestic Airport) Flightseeing tours from Reykjavík, Bakki Airport and Skaftafell.

Horse riding near Landmannalaugar

JAANA-MARJA ROTINEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Natural Wonders

It is an absolute must to take a day trip or an overnight outside of Reykjavík to take in some of the incredible volcanic landscapes, geothermal fields, glaciers, dramatic fjords and black-sand seashores. In summer, bird life can be abundant, with puffins flapping and Arctic terns diving. And from October to April look for the Northern Lights.

Best Volcanoes

Hekla Once thought to be the gates of hell; you can climb it.

Eyjafjallajökull Blew an enormous ash cloud and stopped air traffic in Europe in 2010.

Eldfell Small, and brilliant sienna, it almost smothered Heimaey in lava in 1973.

Reykjanes Peninsula Four volcanic chains in action.

Best Glaciers

Vatnajökull The largest ice cap in Europe with glacier tongues and a giant park to match.

Langjökull Site of the new Ice Cave in West Iceland.

Snæfellsjökull So awesome it has a national park established for it in west Iceland.

Sólheimajökull Easily accessible ice tongue from Mýrdalsjökull ice cap.

Best Waterfalls

Gullfoss Iceland's marquee waterfall, the 'Golden Falls' course over rock tiers and down a gorge.

Seljalandsfoss You can walk behind the spraying curtain of this dramatic cascade.

Skógafoss Dreamy and huge; just to the west of Skógar.

Svartifoss Skaftafell's dramatic falls plummet from black basalt columns.

Best Lava Tubes

Viðgelmir Iceland's sparkling, largest lava tube, accessible by guided tour; in west Iceland.

Vatnshellir Much-loved lava tube in west Iceland's Snæfellsjökull National Park.

Best Geothermal Springs

Blue Lagoon Vibrant turquoise and world-famous.

Gamla Laugin Newly refurbished natural historic spring in meadows.

Fontana Chic; lakeside in Laugarvatn.

Lýsuhólslaug Bubbly water on the south coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Laugardalslaug Reykjavík's historic springs, now a giant bathing complex.

MARK HAMBLIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

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With Kids

Best Parks

Reykjavík Zoo & Family Park What's not to love? Farm animals, floaty rafts, kids' ride, all in a grand park.

Tjörnin Get your crumbs and feed the ducks at the pretty lake.

Hljómskálagarður Examine interesting sculptures throughout the park.

Hverasvæðið Boil an egg in the thermal vents in Hveragerði.

Best Sights

Hallgrímskirkja Take the elevator to the top of the church for thrilling views.

Whales of Iceland Look at amazing life-size replicas of all the Icelandic whales.

Volcano House Watch movies of exploding volcanoes.

Aurora Reykjavík Try out the Northern Lights simulator.

Saga Museum See silicon representations of the Sagas, then dress up in costume for photos.

Best Swimming

Laugardalslaug Giant pool complex with water slide.

Blue Lagoon Teal water and silica mud for horseplay.

Gamla Laugin Huge, warm geothermal pool by a burbling stream.

Best Day Trips

Whale Watching Cruise the icy waters in search of leaping whales.

Viðey Island Bike and hike on a windswept coastal island.

Geysir Watch the geyser shoot water wonderfully high.

River Rafting Strap 'em in for a zip down the Hvítá river.

Horse Riding Take a trot on an Icelandic pony.

Best Eating

Bæjarins Beztu Reykjavík's favourite hot dogs.

Valdi's Homemade ice cream and happy families.

yTop Tips

A Children's admission to museums and swimming pools varies from 50% to free. They pay adult fees at anywhere from 12 to 18.

A Kids usually get 50% off or more with bus and tour companies.

MAGNUS HJORLEIFSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Shopping

Reykjavík’s vibrant design culture and craft-oriented ethos makes for great shopping: from edgy fashion and knitted lopapeysur (Icelandic woollen sweaters) to unique music and loads of lip-smacking liquor. Many artists and designers form collectives and open shops and galleries full of handmade, beautiful work: everything from striking bowls made out of radishes to fish-skin handbags, creative toys and cool couture.

Design

The Iceland Design Centre (www.icelanddesign.is) promotes local designers' work, and you can check online for the latest news, exhibitions and events, as well as interesting blog posts. Its online Reykjavík Design Guide lists designers (from architects to ceramicists) and area shops, and its DesignMarch annual event opens hundreds of exhibitions and workshops to the public.

Sweaters & Knitting

Hand- or machine-made lopapeysur and other wool products are staples of Icelandic life as are many souvenir shops. Individual regions have their own motifs; for example, Borgafjörður designs feature geese, ptarmigan or salmon. Handmade garments made from local wool don't come cheap. Prices in the countryside can be somewhat lower than Reykjavík tourist shops, and you'll know the true knitting stores because they also sell yarn, patterns and needles.

Icelandic Culture and Craft Workshops offer half-day knitting workshops using pure Icelandic wool. Designer Hélène Magnússon offers knitting tours (www.icelandicknitter.com) that take in spinning, wool work, design, folklore and hiking/sightseeing.

ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY ©

Best Fashion

Kiosk Local designers of women's clothing.

KronKron From international couture to Scandi designers, and handmade shoes.

Leynibuðin Local designers with a grunge aesthetic.

66° North Premier outdoor clothes: fancy windpants, top-tier coats.

Annaranna Low-key local fashion house with trendy clothing and accessories.

Gaga Fun-loving pastiches of knit and felted wool.

Volcano Wearable, original designs for all ages.

Best Design

Kirsuberjatréð A Reykjavík institution, with high-end excellent arts and crafts.

Kraum All manner of gadgets, gewgaws and garb.

Skúma Skot Small, with bits of everything, all handmade.

Spark Art gallery meets design store where exhibits rotate and it's all for sale.

Fabúla The Old Harbour's most interesting shop with art, jewellery and some clothes.

Best Knitting & Knitwear

Handknitting Association of Iceland Two city-centre shops full of knits; the Skólavörðustígur 19 location also has yarn, patterns and needles.

Álafoss Lots of local knits; plus a big outlet store in Mosfellsbær.

Ullarselið Countryside knitting in a tiny village, 12km east of Borgarnes.

Víkurprjón In Vík and open 24 hours; it also demonstrates knitting machines.

Best Souvenirs

Iceland Giftstore Large, airy and loaded with higher-end mementos, art and Icelandic fashion.

Viking Packed with trinkets and tourists.

Best Music

Lucky Records Low-key and off the beaten path, but packed with rare grooves from Iceland to LA.

12 Tónar Famous, casual three-storey store fun for hanging out. Also a newer branch in Harpa.

Best Local

Frú Lauga Farmers market with farm-sourced products from purveyors all over Iceland.

Kolaportið Flea Market Second-hand toys sit alongside fermented shark at Reykjavík's weekend market.

Ljómalind Borgarnes' awesome farmers market with local eats, knitwear, arts, crafts and more.

Mál og Menning Reykjavikers loiter over coffee and browse books in this multi-storey independent bookshop.

Best Liquor

Keflavík International Airport The duty-free shops in the airport's arrivals hall.

Vínbúðin The national liquor chain is the only game in town.

KronKron

ICELANDIC PHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY ©

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Festivals

Icelanders celebrate festivals with gleeful enthusiasm. While Reykjavík is the epicentre of the excitement, even small villages have their own festivities: for local heroes, civic pride or just good, old-fashioned quirky traditions. Almost everyone participates, and a spirit of good cheer usually applies. The Reykjavík festivals are also a super showcase for Icelandic and international music and art. Gather round and join in!

AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY ©

Best Music Festivals

Iceland Airwaves (www.icelandairwaves.is) Since the first edition of Iceland Airwaves in 1999, this fab November festival has become one of the world’s premier annual showcases for new music (Icelandic and otherwise).

Þjódhátíð (www.dalurinn.is) In Heimaey, Vestmannaeyjar, on the August long weekend, more than 11,000 people descend to watch bands and fireworks, and drink gallons of alcohol.

Secret Solstice (www.secretsolstice.is) New in 2014 (with headliners Massive Attack), this festival coincides with the solstice, so there's 24-hour daylight too. Held at Laugardalur in Reykjavík.

ATP Iceland (www.atpfestival.com) Headlined by Portishead and Nick Cave in 2013 and 2014, it's back in 2015 at Ásbrú, part of the old military base near Keflavík.

Skálholt Summer Concerts (www.sumartonleikar.is) The cathedral at the historic religious centre of Skálholt hosts around 40 concerts, lectures and workshops from July to August.

Reykjavík Jazz Festival (www.reykjavikjazz.is) From mid-August, Reykjavík toe-taps its way through a week dedicated to jazz, man. Local and international musicians blow their own trumpets at events staged at Harpa.

Best Arts Festivals

Reykjavík Arts Festival (www.listahatid.is) Culture vultures flock to Iceland’s premier cultural festival in late May or early June for two weeks of local and international theatre performances, film, dance, music and visual art.

Reykjavík Culture Night (Menningarnótt; www.menningarnott.is) Mid-August, Reykjavíikers turn out for a day and night of art, music, dance and fireworks. Galleries, ateliers, shops, cafes and churches stay open until late.

DesignMarch (www.designmarch.is) The local design scene is celebrated in Reykjavík at this four-day feast of all things aesthetically pleasing: from fashion to furniture, architecture to food design.

Reykjavík International Film Festival (www.riff.is) Intimate 11-day event from late September features quirky programming that highlights independent film-making, both home-grown and international.

Best Cultural Festivals

National Day The country’s biggest holiday commemorates the founding of the Republic of Iceland on 17 June 1944 with parades and general patriotic merriness.

Reykjavík Pride (www.reykjavikpride.com) Out and proud since 1999, this festival brings Carnival-like colour to the capital on the second weekend of August. About 90,000 people (over one-quarter of the country's population) attended 2014’s Pride march and celebrations.

Þorrablót This Viking midwinter feast (late January to mid/late February) is marked nationwide with stomach-churning treats such as hákarl (fermented shark), svið (singed sheep’s head) and hrútspungar (rams’ testicles). All accompanied by shots of brennivín (a potent schnapps nicknamed ‘black death’).

Food & Fun (www.foodandfun.is) In February, international chefs team up with local restaurants and vie for awards at this capital feast.

Verslunarmannahelgi The first weekend in August is a public-holiday long weekend when Icelanders flock to rural festivals, family barbecues, rock concerts and wild campground parties.

Seafarers’ Day (Sjómannadagurinn) Fishing is integral to Icelandic life, and Seafarers’ Day is party time in fishing villages. On the first weekend in June, every ship in Iceland is in harbour and all sailors have a day off. Salty-dog celebrations on the Sunday include drinking, rowing and swimming contests, tugs-of-war and mock sea rescues.

Secret Solstice music festival

MATTHEW EISMAN/REDFERNS VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

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For Free

Best Natural Wonders

Þingvellir Iceland's original parliament site, in a dramatic rift valley.

Geysir Watch the geothermal water spout like clockwork.

Gullfoss The famous Golden Falls tumble down a narrow canyon.

Reynisfjara Gorgeous black-sand beach near Vík with basalt columns, caves, puffins and sea stacks.

Dyrhólaey Photogenic rock arch off the coast of Vík, with seabird breeding grounds.

Seljalandsfoss Explore behind falls thundering next to the Ring Road.

Snæfellsjökull National Park Ice caps, lava fields, native flora and coastal walks (some led by rangers, for free).

Jökulsárlón Jaw-dropping glacial lagoon with icebergs like floating sculptures.

Best Art & Architecture

Hallgrímskirkja Wander the church grounds and look inside, though the tower will cost ya.

Viðey Island Art installations such as Yoko Ono's Imagine Peace Tower, Ólafur Eliasson's The Blind Pavilion and Richard Serra's Milestones.

Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden Check out 26 bronzes in the shadow of Hallgrímskirkja.

Sun-Craft One of many public sculptures in Reykjavík, this one sits along the capital's coastline.

Harpa Wander the faceted glass interior of the monumental concert hall.

Best Local

Reykjavík Botanic Gardens Grassy fields and thousands of sub-Arctic plants and flowers.

Whale Watching in Garður Picnic on Reykjanes Peninsula headlands while watching for whales, seals and migrating seabirds.

Valahnúkur Climb the cliffs and see bubbling geothermal springs at the tip of Reykjanes Peninsula.

Reykjanesfólkvangur Wilderness Reserve Hike trails by bird cliffs, mineral lakes and multicoloured geothermal fields.

yTop Tip

A At the time of writing, many of Iceland's natural wonders were free, but there is a government proposal to introduce a one-off fee, ensuring travellers contribute to the protection and maintenance of natural sites.

FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A High Season (Jun–Aug) Visitors descend en masse – especially in Reykjavík and the south. Prices peak; accommodation bookings are essential. Endless daylight, plentiful festivals, busy activities.

A Shoulder (May & Sep) Breezier weather; occasional snows in interior. Optimal conditions for those who prefer smaller crowds; lower prices.

A Low Season (Oct–Apr) Long nights with possible Northern Lights viewings. Growing number of winter activities including skiing, snowshoeing and visiting ice caves.

Book Your Stay

A It's essential to book months ahead for June to August in Reykjavík and the southwest (especially around Vík).

A Reykjavík 101 is the central district, best for easy walking around town.

A Reykjavík has a full spectrum of accommodation: from camping and hostels to guesthouses (often with shared bathrooms), business hotels, apartments and boutique hotels. All book up in summer; many are open year-round.

A Prices are high for what you get (and rising fast). Often private apartments are the best bet.

A Country farmstays offer rooms, beds and/or cottages and are a fun way to overnight out of town.

Useful Websites

AirBnB (www.airbnb.com) Private rooms, apartments and houses; often the best deal in the capital.

Booking.com (www.booking.com) Very popular and thorough, especially in the countryside.

Icelandic Farm Holidays (www.farmholidays.is) Top farmstays.

CouchSurfing (www.couchsurfing.com) Network of travellers hosting travellers.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Author-recommendation reviews and online booking.

Best Budget

A KEX Hostel (www.kexhostel.is) Reykjavík's hippest backpacker hang, with a lively restaurant-bar in a converted cookie factory.

A Reykjavík Downtown Hostel (www.hostel.is) Neat as a pin, central and friendly.

A Loft Hostel (www.lofthostel.is) Trendy, central hostel with terrace bar.

Best Midrange

A OK Hotel (www.booking.com, booking@apartmentk.is) Artsy and on popular Laugavegur; kitchenettes.

A Guesthouse Butterfly (www.butterfly.is) Quiet, homey and tidy; near the Old Harbour.

A Galtafell Guesthouse (www.galtafell.com) In a peaceful converted mansion near the lake.

A Villa (www.villa.is) New guesthouse in the middle of the action in an historic building.

Best Top End

A Hótel Borg (www.hotelborg.is) 1930s elegance with super-smart modern style.

A Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina (www.icelandairhotels.is) Harbourfront design hotel with small, cool rooms.

A Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel (www.ioniceland.is) South of Þingvellir National Park, one of Iceland's swanky country hotels.

Best Short-Stay Apartments

A Reykjavík Residence (www.rrhotel.is) Plush apartments on a quiet, central street.

A Room With a View (www.roomwithaview.is) Scandi-modern and deluxe, some with sea views.

A Grettisborg Apartments (www.grettisborg.is) Sleek, understated and in a central, residential neighbourhood.

A REY Apartments (www.rey.is) Modern digs in several building in the centre.

Arriving in Reykjavík

Top Tip For the best way to get your accommodation, see p000.

Keflavík International Airport

A Three easy bus services connect Reykjavík and the airport (50 minutes), and are by far the best bet; kids get discounted fares. Taxis cost approximately Ikr15,000.

Flybus (%580 5400; www.re.is; W)

K-Express (%823 0099; www.kexpress.is)

Airport Express (%540 1313; www.airportexpress.is; W)

Reykjavík Domestic Airport

A From Reykjavík Domestic Airport (Reykjavíkurflugvöllur; GOOGLE MAP ; www.reykjavikairport.is; Innanlandsflug) it’s a 1km walk into town. There’s a taxi rank, and Strætó (www.straeto.is) buses run to the centre and Hlemmur bus station; bus 15 stops near the Air Iceland terminal, bus 19 near the Eagle Air terminal.

Getting Around

Local Bus

Best for... Local travel, when you don't feel like walking.

A Strætó (www.straeto.is) operates regular buses around Reykjavík and its suburbs with main stations at Hlemmur, at the eastern end of Laugavegur, and at Lækjartorg, in the centre of town.

A Online schedules and smartphone app. Route book for sale at Hlemmur bus station (Ikr0.50). Free maps such as Welcome to Reykjavík City Map also include route maps.

A Many buses loop around Tjörnin lake and serve the centre, National Museum, and BSÍ bus terminal before heading onwards.

A Fare is Ikr350; buy tickets at stations or pay on board (no change given). Transfer tickets (from the driver) are good for 75 minutes.

A One-/three-day passes (Ikr900/2200) are sold at bus stations, tourist office, many hotels and bigger swimming pools.

A Buses run 7am to 11pm or midnight daily (from 10am on Sunday) at 20- or 30-minute intervals. Limited night-bus service runs until 2am on Friday and Saturday.

A The Reykjavík City Card also acts as a Strætó bus pass.

Car

Best for... Countryside day trips and overnights.

A Totally unnecessary if you are staying in central Reykjavík.

A Roads are good in the most-visited areas.

A Book ahead for best deals; if there's two or more of you it can be cheaper than the bus.

A Check out Carpooling in Iceland (www.samferda.is).

A Many countryside petrol stations are automated; you need a PIN-equipped debit or credit card. Arrange one before you leave home. If you don’t have a PIN, buy prepaid cards from N1 stations to use at automated pumps.

A 4WDs only necessary for highland travel (F roads: where 2WD rental cars are forbidden).

A Limited parking in the centre (Ikr120 per hour; coins and PIN-equipped cards only). Free from 6pm to 10am Monday to Saturday and all day Sunday.

Regional Bus & Tours

Best for... Seeing the countryside without driving, or if pinched for time.

A Single or multiday tours, many offering hotel pick-up, depart from Reykjavík (see Click here), or use Strætó and the major bus tour companies listed here for transport, getting on and off their scheduled buses. The Public Transport in Iceland free map shows all routes.

A The companies offer bus passes; but some are costly and you're then tied to the one service. Do your research: a car can sometimes be cheaper.

A From roughly mid-May to mid-September regular scheduled buses go to most places on the Ring Road (Rte 1), into the popular hiking areas of the southwest, and to larger towns on the Reykjanes and Snæfellsnes Peninsulas, Westfjords and Eastfjords. The rest of the year, services range from daily to nonexistent.

A In small towns, buses usually stop at the main petrol station, but it pays to double-check.

Strætó (%540 2700; www.straeto.is/english)

BSÍ Bus Terminal – Reykjavík Excursions ( GOOGLE MAP ; %562 1011; www.bsi.is; Vatnsmýrarvegur 10; W)

Sterna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %551 1166; www.sterna.is; W)

Trex (%587 6000; www.trex.is; W)

Air

Best for... Quick hops further afield.

A Domestic flights and those to Greenland and the Faroe Islands leave from Reykjavík Domestic Airport.

A Air Iceland (%570 3030; www.airiceland.is) Book online.

A Eagle Air Operates flights and sightseeing services.

Essential Information

Discount Cards

A The Reykjavík City Card offers free travel on the city’s Strætó buses and on the ferry to Viðey, as well as free admission to Reykjavík’s municipal swimming/thermal pools and to most of the main galleries and museums, and discounts on some tours, shops and entertainment.

A Buy the card at the tourist office, some travel agencies, 10-11 supermarkets, HI hostels and some hotels.

A Kids enter many museums free; the Children's City Card (24/48/72hr Ikr1000/2000/3000) covers other services.

Electricity

Emergency

A For emergency services and search and rescue call 112.

Money

Top Tip While credit cards are ubiquitous, many transactions (such as petrol purchases) require a PIN. Make sure you have one before you leave home.

A Icelandic unit of currency is the króna (plural krónur), written as Ikr here, often written elsewhere as ISK.

A Credit cards are used everywhere; ATMs are throughout the centre.

A Tipping is not required, as service and VAT (value-added tax) are included.

Money-Saving Tips

Tax-Free Shopping Anyone with a permanent address outside Iceland can claim up to 15% refund on purchases when they spend over Ikr4000 (at a single point of sale). Look for stores with a ‘tax-free shopping’ sign, and get a form at the register. Full details at www.taxfreeworldwide.com/Iceland.

Alcohol Planning on drinking a lot in Reykjavík? Buy liquor at the airport's duty-free shops (in the arrivals hall) to beat city prices.

Public Holidays

New Year’s Day 1 January

Easter March or April Maundy Thursday and Good Friday to Easter Monday (changes annually)

First Day of Summer First Thursday after 18 April

Labour Day 1 May

Ascension Day May or June (changes annually)

Whit Sunday and Whit Monday May or June (changes annually)

National Day 17 June

Commerce Day First Monday in August

Christmas 24 to 26 December

New Year’s Eve 31 December

Telephone

Top Tip For longer stays, or for the mobile-addicted, Icelandic SIM cards are cheap and practical; you'll need an unlocked GSM 900/1800 mobile.

A Iceland's country code: 354 (note: Iceland has no area codes).

A Online phonebook: http://en.ja.is.

A Buy prepaid SIM cards at bookshops, grocery stores and petrol stations. Iceland telecom Síminn (www.siminn.is/prepaid) provides greatest network coverage; Vodafone (www.vodafone.is/en/prepaid) is not far behind.

A Voice-and-data starter packs include local SIM cards; Síminn's costs Ikr2000 (and includes Ikr2000 in call credit).

A Public phones are elusive.

Tourist Information

Top Tip Sites such as www.visitreykjavik.is and www.grapevine.is provide all you'll need for a short stay; www.visitreykjanes.is, www.south.is and www.west iceland.is cover the countryside.

Main Tourist Office (Upplýsingamiðstöð Ferðamanna; GOOGLE MAP ; %590 1550; www.visitreykjavik.is; Aðalstræti 2; h8.30am-7pm Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, to 2pm Sun mid-Sep–May)

Travellers with Disabilities

A Iceland can be trickier than many places in northern Europe for travellers with disabilities.

A For details on accessible facilities, contact the info centre for people with disabilities, Þekkingarmiðstöð Sjálfsbjargar (%550 0118; www.thekkingarmidstod.is).

A God Adgang (www.godadgang.dk) can find accessible service providers.

A For tailor-made accessible trips: All Iceland Tours (www.allicelandtours.is) and Iceland Unlimited (www.icelandunlimited.is).

A Reykjavík’s city buses have a ‘kneeling’ function so wheelchairs can be lifted on; elsewhere, buses don’t have ramps or lifts.

Visas

A Iceland is one of 26 European Schengen Convention countries.

A EU & Schengen countries No visa required for three months.

A Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand & USA No visa for tourist visits up to three months. Total stay within Schengen area must not exceed three months in any period of six months.

A Other countries Check online at www.utl.is.

Language

Behind the Scenes

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Alexis’ Thanks

My work on Reykjavík was a labour of love supported by many helping hands. At Reykjavik 871 +/-2, anthropologist Eva Dal’s enthusiasm was infectious. Thanks to Jón Magnússon and Hallgrímur Stefans for double-checking my Icelandic, from rúntur to djammið. Respect to James for the astute attention he brought to the collaboration, and to Carolyn for lending her expertise. Kristinn Viggósson rose above being a host, making Reykjavík feel like home. Yva & John became inspiring family. Ryan was, as always, a peach.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Harpa concert hall and cultural centre in Reykjavík, Arctic-Images/Corbis

This Book

This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Reykjavík was researched and written by Alexis Averbuck. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor James Smart

Product Editor Kate Kiely

Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Book Designer Clara Monitto

Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Stefanos

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Carolyn Bain, Samantha Forge, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Alison Ridgway, Anna Tyler, Lauren Wellicome

Ebook thanks to Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Alexis Averbuck

Alexis’ love of remote, icy landscapes and untouched mountain ranges started with her year spent living in Antarctica, but now it’s been fully co-opted by Iceland. A self-proclaimed glacier geek, Alexis loves exploring Iceland’s remote byways: from surreal lava fields and sparkling fjords to vivid-blue glacier tongues. She also thrives on Icelandic culture, pouring over the sagas and becoming a student of Reykjavík’s super music scene and excellent art and design culture. She enjoys slipping into the capital’s laid-back daily life and getting to know its witty, unselfconscious residents. A travel writer for two decades, Alexis also covers Antarctica, France and Greece for Lonely Planet, has crossed the Pacific by sailboat, and is a painter – see her work at www.alexisaverbuck.com. You can also view her profile at https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

1 edition - Apr 2015

ISBN 9781743605400

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

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