Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Prague

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Prague Neighbourhoods

Explore

Prague Castle & Hradcany

Mala Strana & Petrin Hill

Beer & Culture in Smíchov

Jewish Museum & Josefov

Old Town Square & Stare Mesto

Wenceslas Square & Around

Nove Mesto

Vyšehrad, Prague’s Other Castle

Vinohrady & Zizkov

Holesovice

Best

The Best of Prague

Kafka's Prague

Velvet Revolution

Prague River Walk

Bars & Pubs

Food

Art

Museums

History

For Kids

For Free

Architecture

Shopping

Clubs

Live Music

Gay & Lesbian

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Prague

Getting Around

Essential Information

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Prague

More than 20 years after the Velvet Revolution drew back the curtain on this intoxicating maze of winding cobblestone alleyways, the ‘city of a hundred spires’ thrills visitors with dramatic Gothic architecture, down-to-earth pubs, ornate cafes, cutting-edge art and the grand Prague Castle, looming high over the city and looking as if straight out of a fairy tale.

View from Old Town Bridge Tower

SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES ©

1

Prague

Top Sights

Prague Castle

Looming high above the Vltava’s western bank, this outrageously outsized fortress conjures up childhood fairy tales of a good king watching benevolently over his people.

VISIONS OF OUR LAND/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

St Vitus Cathedral

The Gothic centrepiece of Prague Castle is famous for its beautiful stained- and painted-glass windows, ornate chapels, and spires that seem to pierce the sky.

SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock

The spooky (at night, at least) Gothic spires of the Church of Our Lady Before Týn rise above this famous square, known in part for its Astronomical Clock, where every hour, 'Death' rings a bell and inverts his hourglass.

SCOTT E BARBOUR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Charles Bridge

This stunning stone bridge, commissioned by Emperor Charles IV in 1357 and lined with saintly statues, provides an unforgettable passage between Old Town and Malá Strana.

IMAGES BY FABIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Jewish Museum

This extensive museum is spread out over six important sites in Prague’s former Jewish quarter, including the beautiful Spanish Synagogue.

TRAVEL INK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Old Jewish Cemetery

With 12,000 gravestones and several tens of thousands of additional bodies packed into a space the size of a few suburban gardens, Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery is like no other on earth.

PAOLO CORDELLI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Petřín Hill

The 318m-high grassy knoll, popular with joggers, dog-walkers, lovers and families, offers magnificent vistas across the city of a hundred spires. Take the funicular up here, just like they did for the 1891 Prague Jubilee.

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Loreta

A baroque place of pilgrimage, the Loreta is noted for its cloister and chapels, a lavish, diamond-studded artwork, and the ancient bells that ring out over the city of Prague from its clock tower. And a bearded lady.

TRAVEL INK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Wenceslas Square

Pictured on postcards that highlight the equestrian statue of ‘Good King Wenceslas’, the massive square was once a gathering point for proud Czechs and Velvet Revolution demonstrators.

GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF/GETTY IMAGES ©

Prague Top Sights

Veletržní Palác

Well off the tourist trail in the neighbourhood of Holešovice, this larger-than-life functionalist structure houses an impressive collection of avant-garde Czech art and works by European masters like Cézanne, Rodin, Klimt and Schiele. They also have Mucha's oversized 'Slav Epic'.

URBANMYTH/ALAMY ©

l

Prague

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Prague

Czechs are a cool, laid-back bunch fond of walking their dogs down to the beer garden. After you’ve seen the castle and walked across Charles Bridge, join the locals in their favourite parks, residential neighbourhoods and watering holes.

Gardens of Malá Strana

A Gardens Beneath Prague Castle

A Wallenstein Garden

In the shadows of Prague Castle, the city’s ‘Lesser Quarter’ has a particularly high concentration of lovely parks and gardens. Do as the locals do and seek refuge in the green spaces: bring a blanket, a book and a beer to one of these inviting urban oases.

Drinking in Vinohrady & Žižkov

A Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden

A Bukowski's

Žižkov’s proud citizens claim their neighbourhood has more pubs per square metre than anywhere else in the world. Neighbouring Vinohrady is filled with fashionable cocktail lounges and wine bars. Put them together and you’ve got a great boozy night out on the town.

Radost FX, Vinohrady

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Vyšehrad, Prague’s Other Castle

A Vyšehrad Cemetery

A Church of Sts Peter & Paul

Prague’s 'second' castle is very different from its first, but equally dramatic in its own right. Indeed, it’s been centuries since any real castle stood here, but this ruined citadel more than atones for its architectural shortcomings with breathtaking views of the Vltava River and up to Prague Castle.

Vyšehrad Citadel

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Beer & Art in Smíchov

A Zlatý klas

A Meet Factory

Though it’s slowly gentrifying, this industrial neighbourhood is still known for its edgy, alternative art scene, down-to-earth bars and good theatre. It’s close to the centre, but just far enough off the beaten path to allow visitors a taste of the ‘real’ Prague.

Other places to experience the city like a local:

Tankovna pubs

Kavárna Velryba

Kampa Island

Riegrovy sady

DOX Centre for Contemporary Art

Stromovka Park

Náplavka Farmers Market

Lehká Hlava

Nový Svět Quarter

R

Prague

Day Planner

Short on time?

We’ve arranged Prague’s must-sees into these day-by-day itineraries to make sure you see the best of the city in the time you have available.

Day One

M Just one day in Prague? Focus on major sights. Start early, joining the crowd below the Astronomical Clock for the hourly chiming, then wander through Old Town Sq, taking in the spectacular array of architectural styles and the spires of the Church of Our Lady Before Týn. Stop for coffee and a bite at charming Bakeshop Praha before a short stroll through Josefov, the former Jewish ghetto. You won't have time to see the Prague Jewish Museum, but a walk will give you the feel.

R Amble through the winding alleys of the Old Town on your way to one of Prague’s most famous landmarks, Charles Bridge. While crossing the statue-bedecked bridge, stop to take photos of the Vltava River, with magnificent Prague Castle looming high over the fairy-tale scene. Hike up to the castle along Nerudova through Malá Strana and spend the afternoon visiting St Vitus Cathedral and the castle’s formal gardens and exhibits.

N For dinner, treat yourself to a meal with a view at Villa Richter, just near the castle, or walk back down to Malá Strana for upscale Czech food at Elegantes.

Day Two

M Spend the morning exploring the quaint backstreets and the Kampa gardens of Malá Strana, one of the city’s oldest districts. Catch the Petřín Funicular to enjoy sweeping views from the Lookout Tower at the top of Petřín. From here, find the serene path that crosses over to the Strahov Monastery, and then head downhill along Nerudova, stopping into elegant Wallenstein Garden at the bottom. Laugh at the Proudy sculpture before treating yourself to a late lunch at the lovely riverside restaurant Hergetova Cihelna.

R Cross the river via Mánes Bridge. In the afternoon, check out the famous synagogues of the Jewish Museum, and then take a break with coffee and cake on the balcony of the striking, cubist Grand Cafe Orient.

N Stop by the box office of the National Theatre to see if any last-minute tickets are available to the opera or ballet. Before the show, have a light meal at Cafe Louvre. Afterwards, go for a classy nightcap at Hemingway Bar or Tretter's New York Bar.

Day Three

M Start with coffee at Kavárna Slavia, choosing a table at the front looking out to Prague Castle. Amble over to Slav Island and rent a paddleboat to splash about in the river before heading south to see the Dancing Building. From here, walk back up Národní třída to Wenceslas Square, taking time to see the nearby sights, including the National Museum, the Jan Palach Memorial and the St Wenceslas Statue. Plan lunch at Room (for tapas) or Jáma (for beer and burgers).

R From here it's an easy metro jaunt to Vyšehrad and the Vyšehrad Citadel, where you can wander around the ruins and visit the graves of Dvořak and Mucha in the cemetery.

N Head back toward town and spend the evening in Vinohrady and Žižkov, choosing one of the area's excellent restaurants, like Aromi or Bisos – or simply go for a beer at the Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden.

Day Four

M It's time to see a different part of Prague. Start on Old Town Sq and walk down elegant Pařížská, before crossing Čech Bridge (Čechův most) and making the climb to Letná Gardens. Admire the views from the top, and then make your way east to the Letná Beer Garden (if it's too early for beer, make a note to come back).

R It's a short walk to the National Technical Museum – perfect if you've got kids. Have lunch at nearby Peperoncino, then visit Prague's best (and most underrated) art museum, Veletržní Palác. If you've still got some energy (and daylight), stroll through Stromovka Park and enjoy Prague's prettiest piece of green.

N Head back towards the Letná beer garden to relax with a Gambrinus, then make your way back down toward town. Enjoy a meal at high-end Kalina, then go for jazz at a nearby club like Reduta or the AghaRTA Jazz Centrum. For a quieter option, head for the rooftop terrace U Prince to lift a glass to this lovely city on your last night here.

Need to Know

Currency

Czech crown (Koruna česká; Kč)

Language

Czech

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to three months.

Money

ATMs are widely available and credit cards are accepted at many restaurants and hotels across the city.

Mobile Phones

The Czech Republic uses GSM 900, compatible with mobile phones from the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand (but not with most North American phones).

Time

Central European Time (GMT plus one hour)

Plugs & Adaptors

Most plugs have two round pins; electrical current is 230V. North American travellers will need adaptors and, depending on the device, transformers.

Tipping

It’s standard practice in pubs, cafes and restaurants to add 10% if service has been good. In a taxi, round up the fare.

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than €80

A Dorm beds €10‒€20

A Excellent supermarkets for self-catering

A Cheap theatre tickets start at just €4

Midrange €80‒€150

A Double room at boutique hotel €80‒€100

A Dinner with local beer/wine €30‒€40

Top end more than €150

A Double room or suite at luxury hotel €120‒€200

A Four-course dinner at top restaurants €80

Useful Websites

A Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/czech-republic/prague) Destination info, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

A Prague City Tourism (www.prague.eu) Prague’s official tourism portal.

A Prague.com (www.prague.com) A city guide plus hotel bookings.

A Prague Public Transit (www.dpp.cz) Handy journey planner for all public transport, with an excellent English-language section.

Advance Planning

One month before Reserve your hotel room, especially for smaller B&Bs or boutique hotels.

Two weeks before Check performance-venue websites and order tickets for shows.

One day before Check the Prague Castle website (www.hrad.cz) to find out about the next day’s cultural events.

2Arriving in Prague

Public transport and private taxis are easily available from both main arrival hubs.

3Getting Around

Prague’s public transport system is affordable and efficient, and one of Europe’s best. Most visitors will get everywhere they need to go by walking, taking the metro or hopping on a tram.

m Metro

Prague’s metro system runs from 5am to midnight, with fast, frequent service. For tourists, the most useful line is A (green), which runs from Dejvická (airport connection) to Prague Castle, Malá Strana, Old Town Sq, Wenceslas Sq and Vinohrady.

U Tram

Travelling on the trams in Prague is part of the cultural experience. Regular trams run from 5am to midnight. Important lines to remember are 22 (runs to Prague Castle, Malá Strana and Charles Bridge, Nové Město, and Vinohrady), 17 and 18 (run to the Jewish Quarter and Old Town Sq), and 11 (runs to Žižkov and Vinohrady). After midnight, night trams (51 to 58) rumble across the city about every 40 minutes.

K Taxi

Taxis are a convenient option when you’re in a hurry, but be careful of scams. Look for the ‘Taxi Fair Place’ stations in key tourist areas: drivers can charge a maximum fare and must announce the estimated price in advance. Make sure you know the current exchange rate if the driver offers you the chance to pay in a foreign currency.

Prague Neighbourhoods

Prague Castle & Hradcany

Mala Strana & Petrin Hill

Jewish Museum & Josefov

Old Town Square & Stare Mesto

Wenceslas Square & Around

Nove Mesto

Vinohrady & Zizkov

Holesovice

Prague Castle & Hradčany

The spires of St Vitus Cathedral, rising up from the heart of Prague Castle, are rarely out of view when you’re wandering around the city. In Hradčany (the castle district), visitors are particularly conscious of the royal omnipresence; passing through the doll-sized alleyways, you’ll have an idea what life was like for the castle’s hard-working medieval minions.

MATTHEW DIXON/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Get an early start for your assault on Prague Castle. Eat breakfast and have coffee beforehand, since there aren't many early-morning options up here. Buy an admission ticket at the information centre and head straight for St Vitus Cathedral to check out the magnificent church before the crowds show up. Visit the Old Royal Palace and Golden Lane before taking a break in the Royal Garden. Make your way back to the castle entrance for the changing of the guard at noon.

R After lunch, walk down to the Loreta and take the audio tour of the major sights, including Santa Casa and the Church of the Nativity of Our Lord. Spend the rest of the afternoon perusing the National Gallery's fine holdings of European art at Šternberg Palace or the Theology and Philosophy halls of the nearly thousand-year-old Strahov Monastery. Check out the nearby quirky Miniature Museum.

N Hradčany is quiet at night, but you can pair a late-afternoon stroll through the Nový Svět quarter with a romantic dinner at U Zlaté Hrušky, or have something even more elegant at Villa Richter.

1  Top Sights

Prague Castle

St Vitus Cathedral

Loreta

x  Best of Prague

Food

U zlaté hrušky

Villa Richter

Lobkowicz Palace Café

Art

Prague Castle Picture Gallery

Šternberg Palace

Stained-Glass Windows of St Vitus Cathedral

For Free

Prague Castle

Nový Svět Quarter

History

Tomb of St John of Nepomuk

Prague Sun

Strahov Monastery

Getting There

m Metro Take Line A to Malostranská, then climb the steps.

j Tram Take 22 to Pražský hrad then walk five minutes, or to Pohořelec then walk downhill.

1

Top Sights

Prague Castle

Known simply as hrad (castle) to proud Praguers, Prague Castle was founded by 9th-century Přemysl princes and grew haphazardly as subsequent rulers built additions. Today, it’s a huge complex, larger than seven football fields, proceeding west to east through a series of three courtyards. There have been four major reconstructions. Many Czech rulers have resided here; one notable exception is the first postcommunist president, Václav Havel: in 1989, he plumped for the comforts of his own home instead.

Prague Castle and Vltava River

GUY VANDERELST/GETTY IMAGES ©

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Pražský hrad; %224 372 423; www.hrad.cz; Hradčanské námĕstí; grounds free, sights adult/concession long tour 350/175Kc, short tour 250/125Kc; hgrounds 5am-midnight Apr-Oct, 6am-11pm Nov-Mar, gardens 10am-6pm Apr & Oct, to 7pm May & Sep, to 9pm Jun-Aug, closed Nov-Mar, historic buildings 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar; mMalostranská, j22

y Top Tips

A The castle buildings open at 9am; be there a few minutes early to beat the crowds.

A You’ll need at least half a day to explore the castle grounds.

A Guided tours of the castle in English can be arranged in advance by calling 224 373 584. Tours last around an hour and leave from the information centres.

A To catch music and cultural events at the castle grounds, check out www.kulturanahrade.cz for a schedule of events.

5 Take a Break

There are several places scattered around the castle grounds to stop for a coffee or cold drink. Our favourite – also a good stop for lunch – is the lovely Lobkowicz Palace Café, located on the ground level of Lobkowicz Palace.

Don’t Miss

Castle Entrance

The castle’s main gate, on Hradčany Sq, is flanked by huge, 18th-century statues of battling Titans that dwarf the castle guards below. Playwright-turned-president Václav Havel hired the Czech costume designer on the film Amadeus to redesign the guards’ uniforms and instigated a changing-of-the-guard ceremony – the most impressive display is at noon.

Prague Castle Picture Gallery

In 1648 an invading Swedish army looted Emperor Rudolf II’s art collection (as well as making off with the original bronze statues in the Wallenstein Garden). The gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kulturanahrade.cz; adult/child 150/80Kč; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar; j22) in these converted Renaissance stables house what was left, as well as replacement works, including some by Rubens, Tintoretto and Titian.

Plečnik Monolith

In the third courtyard, a noteworthy feature near St Vitus Cathedral is a huge granite monolith dedicated to the victims of WWI, designed by Slovene architect Jože Plečnik in 1928. Nearby is a copy of the castle’s famous statue of St George slaying the dragon.

Old Royal Palace

The palace’s highlight is the high-Gothic vaulted roof of Vladislav Hall (Vladislavský sál; 1493–1502), beneath which all the presidents of the Czech Republic have been sworn in. There’s also a balcony off the hall with great city views and a door to the former Bohemian Chancellery, where the Second Defenestration of Prague occurred in 1618.

Golden Lane

KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Story of Prague Castle

One of the castle’s most compelling exhibitions, with an outstanding collection of armour, jewellery, glassware, furniture and other artefacts from more than a thousand years of the castle's history. A particularly memorable sight is the skeleton of the pre-Christian ‘warrior’, still encased in the earth where archaeologists found him within the castle grounds.

Basilica of St George

Behind a brick-red facade lies the Czech Republic’s best-preserved Romanesque church. The original was established in the 10th century by Vratislav I (the father of St Wenceslas), who is still buried here, as is St Ludmilla. It’s also popular for small concert performances.

Golden Lane

The tiny, colourful cottages along this cobbled alley, reopened a couple of years ago after extensive renovations, were built in the 16th century for the castle guard’s sharpshooters, but were later used by goldsmiths, squatters and artists, including writer Franz Kafka (who stayed at his sister’s house at No 22 from 1916 to 1917).

Rosenberg Palace

Originally built as the grand residence of the Rosenberg family, this 16th-century Renaissance-style palace was later repurposed by Empress Maria Theresa as a ‘Residence for Noblewomen’ to house 30 unmarried women at a time. Today, one section of the palace recreates the style of an 18th-century noblewoman’s apartment using artefacts from the Prague Castle’s depository.

Lobkowicz Palace

The 16th-century Lobkowicz Palace (Lobkovický palác; GOOGLE MAP ; %233 312 925; www.lobkowicz.cz; Jiřská 3; adult/concession/family 275/200/690Kč; h10am-6pm; j22) houses a private museum known as the Princely Collections, with priceless paintings, furniture and musical memorabilia. An included audio guide dictated by owner William Lobkowicz and his family brings the displays to life, making this one of the castle’s most interesting attractions.

Royal Garden

Powder Bridge (Prašný most; 1540) spans the Stag Moat (Jelení příkop) en route to the spacious Renaissance-style Royal Garden, dating from 1534. The most beautiful building is the Ball-Game House (Míčovna; 1569), a masterpiece of Renaissance sgraffito where the Habsburgs once played badminton. East is the Summer Palace (Letohrádek; 1538–60) and west the former Riding School (Jízdárna; 1695).

Southern Gardens

The three gardens lined up below the castle’s southern wall – Paradise Garden, the Hartig Garden and the Garden on the Ramparts – offer superb views over Malá Strana’s rooftops. Enter from the west via the New Castle Steps or from the east via the Old Castle Steps.

Understand

Kings & Castles

Prague's history, filled with royal betrayals, people tossing each other out of windows, and one man famously being burnt at the stake, makes The Tudors look tame by comparison.

In the Beginning

The name 'Bohemia', still used to describe the Czech Republic's westernmost province, comes from a Celtic tribe, the Boii, who lived here for centuries before Slavic tribes arrived around the 6th century. Two separate tribes are said to have established themselves, with the ‘Czechs’ building a wooden fortress near the current Prague Castle, and the Zličani settling at Vyšehrad. The 9th-century Přemysl dynasty built the earliest section of today’s Prague Castle in the 9th century, and also included one Václav, or 'Wenceslas', of ‘Good King’ Christmas-carol fame.

The Good Times

After the Přemysl dynasty died out, Prague came under the control of the family that eventually produced Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV (1316–78). Under his rule, the city blossomed. Charles – whose mother was Czech – elevated Prague’s official status and went on a construction spree, building the New Town (Nové Město) and Charles Bridge, founding Charles University and adding St Vitus Cathedral to the castle.

One of the university rectors, Jan Hus, led the 15th-century Hussite movement, which challenged what many saw as the corrupt practices of the Catholic Church. Hus was burnt at the stake at Constance in Germany in 1415 for his reformist ‘heresy’, but his death kicked off decades of sectarian fighting that eventually put Hussites in charge for several decades.

Habsburg Rule

In 1526 the Czech lands came under the rule of the Austrian Habsburgs. With the Reformation in full swing in Europe, tensions between the Catholic Habsburgs and reformist Czechs inevitably surfaced. In 1618, Bohemian rebels threw two Catholic councillors from a Prague Castle window, sparking the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48). Following the defeat of the Czech nobility in 1620 at the Battle of White Mountain (Bílá Hora), Czechs lost their independence to the Habsburgs for 300 years.

1

Top Sights

St Vitus Cathedral

The largest and most noteworthy church in the Czech Republic was begun in 1344. Though it appears Gothic to the tips of its pointy spires, much of St Vitus Cathedral was only completed in time for its belated consecration in 1929. The coronations of Bohemia’s kings were held here until the mid-19th century. Today it’s the seat of the Archbishop of Prague and the final resting place of some of the nation’s most illustrious figures – kings, princes, even saints.

St Vitus Cathedral

ARPAD BENEDEK/GETTY IMAGES ©

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Katedrála Sv Víta; %257 531 622; www.katedralasvatehovita.cz; Third Courtyard, Prague Castle; admission with Prague Castle tour ticket; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar; j22

y Top Tips

A Try to arrive first thing in the morning, when the crowds are smaller.

A Entry to the church is no longer free, but included in both short- and long-term Prague Castle combined-entry tickets.

A For spectacular views, climb the stairway to the cathedral’s tower.

A To attend a service here, inquire at the information centres for times.

5 Take a Break

Before braving the crowds, fortify with a steaming cup of jasmine tea or light meal at Malý Buddha, located outside the castle complex a short walk from the main entrance.

For coffee, beer or lunch, try U Zavěšenýho Kafe. It's also situated outside the castle complex.

Don’t Miss

Stained-Glass Windows

The interior is flooded with colour from stained-glass windows created by eminent Czech artists of the early 20th century. In the third chapel on the northern side (to the left as you enter) is one by art nouveau artist Alfons Mucha, depicting the lives of Sts Cyril and Methodius.

Golden Gate

The cathedral's south entrance is known as the Golden Gate (Zlatá brána), an elegant, triple-arched Gothic porch designed by Peter Parler.

Royal Oratory

Kings addressed their subjects from this grand, intricately crafted oratory (1493) that appears to be woven with gnarled tree branches. This striking centrepiece exemplifies late-Gothic aesthetics.

Tomb of St John of Nepomuk

Nepomuk was a priest and a religious martyr; it’s said that hundreds of years after his death, when his body was exhumed, his tongue was found ‘still alive’. The Church canonised him and commissioned this elaborate silver sarcophagus for his reburial. (Scientists later showed that the ‘tongue’ was actually brain tissue congealed in blood.)

Chapel of St Wenceslas

The most beautiful of the cathedral’s side chapels, with walls adorned with gilded panels containing polished slabs of semiprecious stones. Murals from the early-16th century depict scenes from the life of the Czechs’ patron saint, while even older frescos show scenes from the life of Jesus. On the southern side a small door – locked with seven locks – leads to the coronation chamber, where the Bohemian crown jewels are kept.

1

Top Sights

Loreta

The Loreta is a baroque place of pilgrimage financed by the noble Lobkowicz family in 1626. It was designed as a replica of the supposed Santa Casa (Sacred House, the home of the Virgin Mary) in the Holy Land. Legend has it that the original Santa Casa was carried by angels to the Italian town of Loreto as the Turks were advancing on Nazareth. The Loreta's original purpose was to wow and woo the local population, and it still manages to dazzle.

Loreta

TIBOR BOGNAR/GETTY IMAGES ©

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%220 516 740; www.loreta.cz; Loretánské náměstí 7; adult/concession/family 130/100/270Kč; h9am-12.15pm & 1-5pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-12.15pm & 1-4pm Nov-Mar; j22

y Top Tips

A The worthwhile audio guide, available in several languages, costs 150Kč.

A Families (two adults and up to five children under 16) can ask for the 270Kč family rate.

A If you’d like to take photos (no flash or tripod allowed), ask for a permit (100Kč).

5 Take a Break

For a cold beer, look no further than old-school Czech pub Pivnice U Černého Vola.

For something more substantial like lunch or dinner, try the nearby U Zlaté Hrušky. In summer, sit in the garden across the street.

Don’t Miss

Santa Casa

The duplicate Santa Casa is in the centre of a courtyard complex, surrounded by cloistered arcades, churches and chapels. The interior is adorned with 17th-century frescos and reliefs depicting the life of the Virgin Mary, and an ornate silver altar with a wooden effigy of Our Lady of Loreto.

Prague Sun

The eye-popping treasury boasts a star attraction – a dazzling object called the 'Prague Sun'. Studded with 6222 diamonds, it was a gift to the Loreta from Countess Ludmila of Kolowrat. In her will she wrote that the piece must be crafted from her personal collection of diamonds – wedding gifts from her third husband.

Church of the Nativity of Our Lord

Behind the Santa Casa is the Church of the Nativity of Our Lord, built in 1737 to a design by Christoph Dientzenhofer. The claustrophobic interior includes two skeletons of the Spanish saints Felicissima and Marcia, dressed in aristocratic clothing with wax masks concealing their skulls.

The Bearded Lady

At the corner of the courtyard is the unusual Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, featuring a crucified bearded lady. She was St Starosta, pious daughter of a Portuguese king who promised her to the king of Sicily against her wishes. After a night of tearful prayers she awoke with a beard, the wedding was called off, and her father had her crucified. She was later made patron saint of the needy and the godforsaken.

1 Top Sights

Prague Castle  D2

St Vitus Cathedral  D2

Loreta  B3

1 Sights

1Strahov Monastery  A4

2Miniature Museum  A4

3Šternberg Palace  C2

5 Eating

4Villa Richter  E2

5Lobkowicz Palace Café  E2

6U Zlaté Hrušky  B2

7Malý Buddha  A3

8Host  B3

6 Drinking

9Pivnice U Černého Vola  B3

10U Zavěšenýho Kafe  C3

11Klášterní pivovar Strahov  A4

7 Shopping

12Houpací Kůň  A3

13Antique Music Instruments  A4

Sights

1Strahov MonasteryMONASTERY

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In 1140 Vladislav II founded Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter) for the Premonstratensian order. The present monastery buildings, completed in the 17th and 18th centuries, functioned until the communist government closed them down and imprisoned most of the monks; they returned in 1990.

(Strahovský klášter; %233 107 711; www.strahovskyklaster.cz; Strahovské nádvoří 1; j22)

1Miniature MuseumMUSEUM

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Siberian technician Anatoly Konyenko used to manufacture tools for microsurgery, but these days he prefers to spend 7½ years crafting a pair of golden horseshoes for a flea. See those, as well as the Lord's Prayer inscribed on a single human hair, a grasshopper clutching a violin, and a camel caravan silhouetted in the eye of a needle. Weird but fascinating.

(Muzeum Miniatur; %233 352 371; Strahovské nádvoří II; adult/child 100/50Kč; h9am-5pm; j22)

Miniature Museum

EDDIE GERALD/ALAMY ©

1Šternberg PalaceGALLERY

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The baroque Šternberg Palace is home to the National Gallery’s collection of 14th- to 18th-century European art, including works by Goya and Rembrandt. Fans of medieval altarpieces will be in heaven; there are also several Rubens, some Rembrandts and Brueghels, and a large collection of Bohemian miniatures.

(Šternberský palác; %233 090 570; www.ngprague.cz; Hradčanské náměstí 15; incl admission to Schwarzenberg Palace adult/child 150/80Kč; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; j22)

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Top Tip

Visiting Prague Castle

You can purchase two kinds of tickets (each valid for two days) to visit Prague Castle that allow entry to different combinations of sights. Most short-term visitors opt for the Short Tour:

Long Tour (adult/child/family 350/175/700Kč) – includes St Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, Story of Prague Castle, Basilica of St George, Powder Tower, Golden Lane and Daliborka, Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Powder Tower and Rosenberg Palace.

Short Tour (adult/child/family 250/125/500Kč) – includes St Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, Basilica of St George, Golden Lane and Daliborka.

You can buy tickets at either of two information centres in the Second and Third Courtyards.

Eating

5Villa RichterCZECH, FRENCH €€

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Housed in a restored 18th-century villa in the middle of a replanted medieval vineyard, this place is aimed squarely at the hordes of tourists thronging up and down the Old Castle Steps. But the setting is special – outdoor tables on terraces with one of the finest views in the city – and the menu of classic Czech dishes doesn’t disappoint.

(%257 219 079; www.villarichter.cz; Staré zamecké schody 6; mains 150-300Kč, 3-course dinner 945Kč; h11am-11pm; mMalostranská)

5Lobkowicz Palace CaféCAFE €€

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This cafe, housed in the 16th-century Lobkowicz Palace, is the best eatery in the castle complex by an imperial mile. Try to grab one of the tables on the balconies at the back – the view over Malá Strana is superb, as is the goulash. The coffee is good, too, and service is fast and friendly.

(%233 312 925; Jiřská 3; mains 200-300Kč; h10am-6pm; Wc; j22)

5U Zlaté HruškyCZECH €€€

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'At the Golden Pear' is a cosy, wood-panelled gourmets’ corner, serving Bohemian fish, fowl and game dishes (tripe fricassee is a speciality) and frequented by locals and visiting dignitaries as well as tourists (the Czech foreign ministry is just up the road, and Margaret Thatcher once dined here). In summer get a table in its leafy zahradní restaurace (garden restaurant) across the street.

(%220 941 244; www.restaurantuzlatehrusky.cz; Nový Svět 3; mains 450-700Kč; h11am-1am; j22)

5Malý BuddhaASIAN €

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Candlelight, incense and a Buddhist shrine characterise this intimate, vaulted restaurant that tries to capture the atmosphere of an oriental tearoom. The menu is a mix of Asian influences, with authentic Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, many of them vegetarian, and a drinks list that includes ginseng wine, Chinese rose liqueur and all kinds of tea. Credit cards are not accepted.

(%220 513 894; www.malybuddha.cz; Úvoz 46; mains 140-250Kč; hnoon-10.30pm Tue-Sun; v; j22)

5HostMEDITERRANEAN, ASIAN €€

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Hidden away down a narrow staircase between streets, Host impresses with its sleekly modern dining room, decorated with old monochrome photos, and the stunning view from its outdoor terrace. Friendly staff will guide you through a competent menu that ranges from steaks, burgers and traditional Czech dishes to Asian favourites such as spring rolls and Thai-style prawn stir-fry.

(%728 695 793; www.hostrestaurant.cz; Loretánská 15; mains 300-400Kč; W; j22)

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Local Life

Stroll Through The 'New World'

The quiet Nový Svět ( GOOGLE MAP ; j22) (New World) quarter makes a perfect alternative to the castle's crowded Golden Lane. In the 16th century, houses were built for castle staff in an enclave of curving cobblestone streets down the slope north of the Loreta. Many of these diminutive cottages have been restored and painted in pastel shades. Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe once lived at Nový Svět 1.

Understand

Curse of the Czech Crown Jewels

In St Vitus Cathedral, on the southern side of the Chapel of St Wenceslas, there’s a small door locked with seven keys. In a nod to the biblical 'seven seals' of Revelations, each is in the safekeeping of a separate official.

What lies beyond this secretive and carefully guarded door? The Czech crown jewels, of course. They’re rarely exhibited to the public, but the oldest among them is the 22-carat-gold St Wenceslas Crown, made for Charles IV in 1347 and dedicated to the earlier prince.

Like all the best regal artefacts, the crown comes with a legendary curse: any usurper wearing it is doomed to die within the year. Call it coincidence, but the Nazi chief of Prague, Reinhard Heydrich, donned the crown in 1941 and was duly assassinated in 1942 by the Czechoslovak resistance.

Drinking

6Pivnice U Černého VolaPUB

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Many religious people make a pilgrimage to the Loreta, but just across the road, the 'Black Ox' is a shrine that pulls in pilgrims of a different kind. This surprisingly inexpensive beer hall is visited by real-ale aficionados for its authentic atmosphere and lip-smackingly delicious draught beer, Velkopopovický Kozel (30Kč for 0.5L), brewed in a small town southeast of Prague.

(%220 513 481; Loretánské náměstí 1; h10am-10pm; j22)

6U Zavěšenýho KafeBAR

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A superb drinking den barely five minutes’ walk from the castle. Head for the back room, quirkily decorated with weird art and mechanical curiosities by local artist Kuba Krejci, and an ancient jukebox. Foaming Pilsner Urquell is 38Kč a half-litre, and the coffee is damn fine, too.

(%605 294 595; www.uzavesenyhokafe.cz; Úvoz 6; h11am-midnight; W; j12, 20, 22)

6Klášterní pivovar StrahovBREWERY

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Dominated by two polished copper brewing kettles, this convivial little pub serves up two varieties of its St Norbert beer: tmavý (dark), a rich, tarry brew with a creamy head, and polotmavý (amber), a full-bodied, hoppy lager; both are 59Kč per 0.4L. There's also a strong (6.3% abv) IPA-style beer.

(Strahov Monastery Brewery; %233 353 155; www.klasterni-pivovar.cz; Strahovské nádvoří 301; h10am-10pm; j22)

Understand

Falling Out

Czechs have long savoured their rep as world leaders in the art of ‘defenestration’, the act of pushing someone out of a high window with the intent to do bodily harm.

The first defenestration took place in 1419, when supporters of religious reformer Jan Hus threw several Catholic councillors from Prague’s New Town Hall (the Hussites were still angry over the burning of their leader at the stake four years prior).

Fast forward two centuries, to 1618: again, differences in religious opinion motivated angry Protestant nobles to throw two Catholic councillors and a secretary from a high window at Prague Castle. This particular window-tossing had grave consequence for much of Europe, sparking the Thirty Years’ War. Apparently, the defenestrated councillors and secretary survived the fall by winding up in a dung heap, but this didn't prevent the entire continent from landing in the proverbial same.

In 1948, then Foreign Minister Jan Masaryk may very well have been tossed from a window at    Černín Palace (Černínský Palác; GOOGLE MAP ; Loretánské náměstí; hclosed to the public; j22) during the communist coup d’état (the circumstances have never been made clear). Novelist Bohumil Hrabal, in a surreal twist of fate befitting one of his own stories, fell from a 5th-floor window in 1997 while trying to feed some pigeons.

Shopping

7Houpací KůňTOYS

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The ‘Rocking Horse’ toyshop houses a collection of wooden folk dolls, 1950s wind-up tractors, toy cars and – surprise – even a couple of rocking horses. There are quality toys and art supplies you won’t find anywhere else in Prague, but for a typically Czech souvenir try the famous and ubiquitous 'Little Mole' cartoon character, available here in several guises.

(%603 515 745; Loretánské náměstí 3; h9.30am-6.30pm; j22, 25)

7Antique Music InstrumentsANTIQUES

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It may not get the prize for most inventive shop name, but this place is a real treasure trove of vintage stringed instruments. You’ll find an interesting stock of antique violins, violas and cellos dating from the 18th century to the mid-20th century, as well as bows, cases and other musical accessories.

(%220 514 287; Pohořelec 9; h9am-6pm; j22)

Antique violins on display

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Understand

Good 'King' Wenceslas

Thanks to British clergyman John Mason Neale, the name 'Wenceslas' is known to English speakers the world over. It was Neale who penned the popular Christmas carol ‘Good King Wenceslas’ in 1853. Neale was apparently inspired by the tale of a page and his master taking food and firewood to the poor on a freezing day over the Christmas holiday.

However, Neale was either mistaken or consciously exaggerating. Wenceslas ('Václav' in Czech) was never a king, but rather the duke of Bohemia, who from 925 to 929 AD helped bring Christianity to the Czech lands. Now the Czechs’ chief patron saint, his image pops up all across town, from St Vitus Cathedral to the Wenceslas Statue on (you guessed it) Wenceslas Square.

Despite his piety, Wenceslas came to an unfortunate end. He was murdered by his brother Boleslav for cosying up to neighbouring Germans.

Malá Strana & Petřín Hill

Almost too picturesque for its own good, the baroque district of Malá Strana (Little Quarter) tumbles down the hillside between Prague Castle and the river. The focal point here is Malostranské náměstí, the main square, dominated by the green dome of St Nicholas Church. Petřín Hill, topped by a park and faux-but-fun Eiffel Tower, rises south of the square.

GIORGIO FOCHESATO/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start your day on Malostranské náměstí; grab a coffee at Malostranská beseda to fortify yourself and admire the baroque splendour of St Nicholas Church. Stroll the area's beautiful lanes and then stop by the Karel Zeman Museum, Kampa Museum or the Museum of the Infant Jesus of Prague for some film, art or religious art. Grab lunch at Cukrkávalimonáda.

R After lunch, you've got an uphill choice. If you've got kids in tow, hike or (better yet) take the Funicular to Petřín Hill and its host of kid-friendly activities, including an impressive Lookout Tower and Mirror Maze. Another option is to climb Nerudova Street starting from behind Malostranské náměstí, noting the characteristic medieval signs on the doors of the houses.

N For the evening, dine riverside on the terrace of Hergetova Cihelna or go for something slightly higher-quality at Elegantes. Afterwards, take in some for jazz at U Malého Glena or catch a local band at Beseda. For drinks, there's Mlýnská Kavárna or the ever-crazy Blue Light.

1  Top Sights

Petřín Hill

l  Local Life

Gardens of Malá Strana

x  Best of Prague

Bars & Pubs

Blue Light

Mlýnská Kavárna

Food

Elegantes

Café Savoy

Hergetova Cihelna

Museums

Franz Kafka Museum

Karel Zeman Museum

Museum of the Infant Jesus of Prague

Culture

U Malého Glena

Malostranská beseda

Getting There

j Tram Take tram 12, 20 or 22 to Malostranské náměstí; or line 6, 9, 12, 20 or 22 to Újezd

m Metro The closest stop is Malostranská on Line A.

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Top Sights

Petřín Hill

This 318m-high hill is one of Prague’s largest green spaces. It’s great for quiet, tree-shaded walks and fine views over the ‘city of a hundred spires’ from the observation deck of a highly convincing Eiffel Tower wannabe. There were once vineyards here, and a quarry that provided the stone for most of Prague’s Romanesque and Gothic buildings. Take the funicular railway up to add a bit of a day-trip feel.

Autumn vista across Petřín Hill

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

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j6, 9, 12, 20, 22 to Újezd

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A Before heading up the hill, stop at a bakery or supermarket to pick up picnic fixings. There are lots of benches and places to spread a blanket.

A Hiking up Petřín Hill is a pleasant alternative to the funicular and not too strenuous if you follow the winding paths.

A Ride the funicular at night for glittering views out over the city.

A Instead of taking the funicular down, consider walking northward through the top of the park towards Strahov Monastery.

5 Take a Break

Restaurant Nebozízek is located halfway up Petřín Hill’s funicular route – it offers wonderful views and is also accessible by foot.

Café Savoy, not far from the funicular base station, is great for either coffee or lunch.

Don’t Miss

Petřín Funicular

First opened in 1891, the Petřín Funicular Railway (Lanová draha na Petřín; GOOGLE MAP ; %800 191 817; www.dpp.cz; Újezd; adult/child 32/16Kč; h9am-11.30pm Apr-Oct, to 11.20pm Nov-Mar; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22 to Újezd) trundles along 510m of track every 10 minutes (every 15 minutes from November to March) from Újezd to the Petřín Lookout Tower, with a stop at Nebozízek.

Petřín Lookout Tower

Some of the best views of Prague – including, on a clear day, the Central Bohemian forests – are from the top of this 62m-tall tower (Petřínská rozhledna; GOOGLE MAP ; %257 320 112; www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz; Petřínské sady; adult/child 120/65Kč; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Mar & Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb; jfunicular), built in 1891 for the Prague Exposition. The Eiffel Tower lookalike has 299 steps (and a lift).

Memorial to the Victims of Communism

The striking Memorial to the Victims of Communism (Památník obětem komunismu; GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Újezd & Vítězná; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22) sculpture shows disintegrating human figures descending a staggered slope. A bronze plaque records the terrible human toll of the communist era: 205,486 arrested; 170,938 driven into exile; 248 executed; 4500 who died in prison; and 327 shot trying to escape.

Mirror Maze

The Mirror Maze (Zrcadlové bludiště; GOOGLE MAP ; www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz; Petřínské sady; adult/child 75/55Kč; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, 10am-8pm Mar & Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Feb; jfunicular), just below the Lookout Tower, was also built for the 1891 Prague Exposition. The maze of distorting mirrors was based on the Prater in Vienna; there’s also, inexplicably, a diorama of the 1648 Battle of Prague.

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Local Life

Gardens of Malá Strana

The aristocrats who inhabited Malá Strana in the 17th and 18th centuries sculpted beautiful baroque gardens, many of which are open to the public. From April to October, whenever the sun shines the neighbourhood’s parks and gardens fill up with local students toting sketchbooks, young mothers with kids, and business types relaxing on their lunch breaks. Note that from November to March many of the parks are closed.

1 Stroll the Gardens Beneath Prague Castle

The beautiful, terraced Gardens Beneath Prague Castle (Palácové zahrady pod Pražským hradem; GOOGLE MAP ; %257 010 401; www.palacove-zahrady.cz; Valdštejnská 12-14; adult/child 80/50Kč; h10am-9pm Jun & Jul, to 8pm Aug, to 7pm May & Sep, to 6pm Apr & Oct; mMalostranská, j12, 20, 22) on the steep southern slopes below the castle date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They were restored in the 1990s and contain a Renaissance loggia with frescos of Pompeii and a baroque portal with sundial that cleverly catches the sunlight reflected off a fountain's water.

2 Admire Wallenstein Garden

Baroque Wallenstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada; GOOGLE MAP ; Letenská 10; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, to 7pm daily Jun-Sep; mMalostranská, j12, 20, 22) is an oasis of peace amid the bustle of Malá Strana. Created for Duke Albrecht of Wallenstein in the 17th century, its finest feature is the huge loggia decorated with scenes from the Trojan Wars, flanked to one side by an enormous fake stalactite grotto dotted with carved grotesque faces.

3 Hang Out With Locals in Vojan Gardens

While less manicured than most of Malá Strana’s parks, Vojan Gardens (Vojanovy sady; GOOGLE MAP ; U Lužického semináře; h8am-dusk) is a popular spot with locals who like to come here to take a breather with the kids, sit in the sun or even hold summer parties.

4 Spot an Unusual Fountain

In the open-air plaza in front of the Franz Kafka Museum is a much-photographed public artwork: David Černý’s sculpture Proudy (Streams; GOOGLE MAP ; Hergetova Cihelná; mMalostranská). The quirky animatronic sculpture features two men relieving themselves into a puddle shaped like the Czech Republic. The microchip-controlled sculptures write out famous literary quotations of Prague with the streams.

5 Feel the Breeze at Kampa

Toss a Frisbee, take a load off, or just watch the local hipsters play with their dogs at the leafy riverside park known simply as Kampa ( GOOGLE MAP ; j12, 20, 22) (from the Latin campus or ‘field’). One of the city’s favourite chill-out zones, it’s usually littered with lounging bodies – and excessively romantic teenagers – in summer.

6 Find Inner Peace

The John Lennon Peace Wall ( GOOGLE MAP ; Velkopřevorské náměstí; j12, 20, 22) is a memorial graffiti wall to the former Beatle. After his murder in New York in 1980, Lennon became a pacifist hero for young Czechs; his image was painted on this wall opposite the French Embassy, along with political graffiti and Beatles lyrics.

7 Discover the Vrtbov Garden

The ‘secret' Vrtbov Garden (Vrtbovská zahrada; GOOGLE MAP ; %257 531 480; www.vrtbovska.cz; Karmelitská 25; adult/concession 62/52Kč; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct; j12, 20, 22), hidden along an alley at the corner of Tržiště and Karmelitská, was built in 1720 for the Earl of Vrtba, the senior chancellor of Prague Castle. It’s a formal baroque garden, climbing steeply up the hillside to a terrace graced with baroque statues of Roman mythological figures by Matthias Braun.

1 Top Sights

Petřín Hill  B3

1 Sights

1St Nicholas Church  C2

St Nicholas Church Bell Tower  C2

2Karel Zeman Museum  D2

3Kampa Museum  D3

4Maltese Square  D2

5Museum of the Infant Jesus of Prague  C3

6Franz Kafka Museum  E2

7Nerudova  B1

8Quo Vadis (David Černý Sculpture)  B2

5 Eating

9Hergetova Cihelna  E2

10Elegantes  D1

11Café Savoy  D4

12Restaurant Nebozízek  B4

13Bar Bar  D4

14U Malé Velryby  D3

15Café de Paris  D2

16Cukrkávalimonáda  D2

17U Modré Kachničky  D3

18Noi  C4

6 Drinking

19Mlýnská Kavárna  D4

20Klub Újezd  D4

21Baráčnická Rychta  C2

22Kafíčko  D2

23Blue Light  D2

24U Malého Glena  C2

25Malostranská beseda  D1

7 Shopping

26Marionety Truhlář  D2

27Artěl  D2

28Shakespeare & Sons  D2

29Pavla & Olga  C2

Sights

1St Nicholas ChurchCHURCH

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Malá Strana is dominated by the huge green cupola of St Nicholas Church, one of Central Europe’s finest baroque buildings. (Don’t confuse it with the other Church of St Nicholas on Old Town Square.) On the ceiling, Johann Kracker’s 1770 Apotheosis of St Nicholas is Europe’s largest fresco (clever trompe l’oeil technique has made the painting merge almost seamlessly with the architecture).

(Kostel sv Mikuláše; %257 534 215; www.stnicholas.cz; Malostranské náměstí 38; adult/child 70/50Kč; h9am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; j12, 20, 22)

St Nicholas Church, Mala Straná Square

FURTURE LIGHT/GETTY IMAGES ©

1St Nicholas Church Bell Tower TOWER

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During the communist era, the bell tower of St Nicholas Church was used to spy on the nearby American embassy – on the way up you can still see a small, white cast-iron urinal that was installed for the use of the watchers. Today it provides visitors with a grand view over Malá Strana and Charles Bridge.

(http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/prague-towers; Malostranské náměstí; adult/child 90/65Kč; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Mar & Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb; j12, 20, 22)

1Karel Zeman MuseumMUSEUM

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Bohemia-born director Karel Zeman (1910–89) was a pioneer of movie special effects, whose work is little-known outside the Czech Republic. This fascinating museum, established by his daughter, reveals the many tricks and techniques he perfected, and even allows visitors a bit of hands-on interaction – you can film yourself on your smartphone against painted backgrounds and 3D models.

(Museum of Film Special Effects; %724 341 091; www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz; Saský dvůr, Saská 3; adult/child 200/140Kč; h10am-7pm, last admission 6pm; j12, 20, 22)

1Kampa MuseumGALLERY

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Housed in a renovated mill building, this gallery is devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art from Central Europe. The highlights of the permanent exhibition are extensive collections of bronzes by Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund and paintings by František Kupka, a pioneer of abstract art.

(Muzeum Kampa; %257 286 147; www.museumkampa.cz; U Sovových mlýnů 2; adult/concession 220/110Kč; h10am-6pm; j12, 20, 22)

1Maltese SquareSQUARE

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References to the Knights of Malta around Malá Strana hark back to 1169, when that military order established a monastery in the Church of Our Lady Beneath the Chain on this square. Disbanded by the communists, the Knights have regained much property under post-1989 restitution laws, including the Lennon Wall.

(Maltézské náměstí; j12, 20, 22)

1Museum of the Infant Jesus of PragueMUSEUM

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The Church of Our Lady Victorious (kostel Panny Marie Vítězné), built in 1613, has on its central altar a 47cm-tall waxwork figure of the baby Jesus, brought from Spain in 1628 and known as the Infant Jesus of Prague (Pražské Jezulátko). At the back of the church is a museum displaying a selection of the frocks used to dress the Infant.

(Muzeum Pražského Jezulátka; %257 533 646; www.pragjesu.info; Karmelitská 9; hchurch 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat & 8.30am-8pm Sun, museum 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat & 1-6pm Sun, closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec & Easter Mon; j12, 20, 22)

1Franz Kafka MuseumMUSEUM

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This much-hyped exhibition on the life and work of Prague’s most famous literary son, entitled ‘City of K’, explores the intimate relationship between the writer and the city that shaped him, through the use of original letters, photographs, quotations, period newspapers and publications, and video and sound installations.

(Muzeum Franzy Kafky; %257 535 373; www.kafkamuseum.cz; Cihelná 2b; adult/child 200/120Kč; h10am-6pm; mMalostranská, j12, 20, 22)

1NerudovaSTREET

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Following the tourist crowds downhill from the castle via Ke Hradu, you will arrive at Nerudova, architecturally the most important street in Malá Strana; most of its old Renaissance facades were ‘baroquefied’ in the 18th century. It’s named after the Czech poet Jan Neruda (famous for his short stories, Tales of Malá Strana), who lived at the House of the Two Suns (dům U dvou slunců; GOOGLE MAP ; Nerudova 47) from 1845 to 1857.

(j12, 20, 22)

1Quo Vadis (David Černý Sculpture)MONUMENT

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This golden Trabant car on four legs is a David Černý tribute to 4000 East Germans who occupied the garden of the then–West German embassy in 1989, before being granted political asylum and leaving their Trabants behind. You can see the sculpture through the fence behind the German embassy. Head uphill along Vlašská, turn left into a children's park, and left again to find it.

(Where Are You Going; Vlašská 19; j12, 20, 22)

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Local Life

Kampa Island

A lovely little green oasis, Kampa Island is separated from Malá Strana proper by a canal known as the Devil’s Stream (Čertovka). Two mill wheels survive, where washerwomen used to do laundry until the 1930s. Nowadays, the peaceful island attracts mainly young families, dog-walkers and artists. Night-time views of the lights twinkling across the river are superb, particularly from the south of the island. Take tram 6, 9, 12, 20 or 22 to Újezd.

Understand

The Numbers Game

Until numbering was introduced in the 18th century, exotic house names and signs were the only way of identifying individual Prague buildings. This practice came to a halt in 1770, when it was banned by the city councillors.

More such-named houses and signs survive on    Nerudova than along any other Prague street. As you head downhill look out for At the Two Suns (No 47), the Golden Horseshoe (No 34), the Three Fiddles (No 12), the Red Eagle (No 6) and the Devil (No 4). Other signs include a St Wenceslas on horseback (No 34), a golden key (No 27) and a golden goblet (No 16).

Eating

5Hergetova CihelnaMEDITERRANEAN, ASIAN €€€

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Housed in a converted 18th-century cihelná (brickworks), this place enjoys one of Prague’s hottest locations, with a riverside terrace offering sweeping views of Charles Bridge and the Old Town waterfront. The menu is as sweeping as the view, ranging from seafood and upmarket burgers to Asian dishes such as Thai beef salad and chicken stir-fry. There's also a decent kids' menu and play area.

(%296 826 103; www.kampagroup.com; Cihelná 2b; mains 300-600Kč; h11.30am-1am; Wc; mMalostranská)

5ElegantesCZECH, EUROPEAN €€€

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Hidden away in the historic Augustine Hotel (check out the ceiling fresco in the bar), this sophisticated yet relaxed restaurant is well worth seeking out. The menu ranges from down-to-earth, but delicious, dishes such as veal shank braised in the hotel's own St Thomas beer, to inventive dishes built around Czech game, such as wild boar ragout with chestnut pappardelle.

(%266 112 280; www.elegantes.cz; Letenská 12; mains 490-990Kč; hnoon-10.30pm; W; j12, 20, 22)

5Café SavoyEUROPEAN €€

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The Savoy is a beautifully restored belle époque cafe, with haughty black-and-white-suited waitstaff and a Viennese-style menu of hearty soups, salads, roast meats and schnitzels. There’s also a good breakfast menu with plenty of healthy choices, including a ‘Full English', an American breakfast, and eggs cooked half a dozen ways.

(%257 311 562; cafesavoy.ambi.cz; Vítězná 5; mains 125-500Kč; h8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; W; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22)

5Restaurant NebozízekINTERNATIONAL €€

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This 17th-century conservatory restaurant halfway up Petřín Hill now has a designer interior, with lots of pale Nordic furniture and Singapore orchids, as well as a menu that peppers its modern international menu with a few Czech staples. The views are fabulous, even if the place feels touristy.

(%257 315 329; www.nebozizek.cz; Petřínské sady 411; mains 150-420Kč; h11am-10pm; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22 to Újezd, then Petřín funicular)

5Bar BarCZECH, EUROPEAN €€

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This friendly cellar bar is frequented more by locals than tourists, but the healthy-eating menu is chalked on a blackboard in both Czech and English. It ranges from chicken breast with honey, lemon and chilli to grilled salmon with creamed spinach, with a couple of good veggie alternatives.The weekday lunch menu offers soup and a main course for 120Kč.

(%257 312 246; www.bar-bar.cz; Všehrdova 17; mains 170-320Kč; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; v; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22)

Outdoor dining, Malá Strana Square

KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

5U Malé VelrybySEAFOOD, MEDITERRANEAN €€

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'The Little Whale' is a tiny place – only eight tables – run by chef-proprietor Jason (from Cork, Ireland), who gets fresh seafood flown in daily from French markets. The seafood chowder is tasty and filling, the braised pork ribs with cauliflower and sesame puree are tender, and the tapas exceedingly more-ish. Make sure Jason himself is in the kitchen for a top-quality dinner.

(%257 214 703; www.umalevelryby.cz; Maltézské náměstí 15; mains 360-410Kč; h10am-10pm; j12, 20, 22)

5Café de ParisFRENCH €€

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A little corner of France tucked away on a quiet square, the Café de Paris is straightforward and unpretentious. So is the menu – onion soup or foie gras terrine to start, followed by entrecôte steak with chips, salad and a choice of sauces (they’re very proud of the Café de Paris sauce, made to a 75-year-old recipe). Daily specials include a vegetarian alternative.

(%603 160 718; www.cafedeparis.cz; Maltézské náměstí 4; mains 245-425Kč; hnoon-midnight; j12, 20, 22)

5CukrkávalimonádaEUROPEAN €

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A cute little cafe-cum-restaurant that combines minimalist modern styling with Renaissance-era painted timber roof-beams, CKL offers fresh, homemade pastas, frittatas, ciabattas, salads and pancakes (sweet and savoury) by day and a slightly more sophisticated bistro menu in the early evening. There's also a good breakfast menu offering ham and eggs, croissants, and yoghurt – and the hot chocolate is to die for.

(%257 225 396; www.cukrkavalimonada.com; Lázeňská 7; mains 100-200Kč; h9am-7pm; j12, 20, 22)

5U Modré KachničkyCZECH €€€

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A plush and chintzy 1930s-style hunting lodge hidden away on a quiet side street, 'At the Blue Duckling' is a pleasantly old-fashioned place with quiet, candlelit nooks perfect for a romantic dinner. The menu is heavy on traditional Bohemian duck and game dishes, such as roast duck with slivovice (plum brandy), plum sauce and potato pancakes.

(%257 320 308; www.umodrekachnicky.cz; Nebovidská 6; mains 450-600Kč; hnoon-4pm & 6.30pm-midnight; W; j12, 20, 22)

5NoiTHAI €€

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A restaurant that feels a bit like a club, Noi is superstylish but with a chilled-out, oriental atmosphere. The decor is based around lotus blossoms, lanterns and soft lighting, and the menu follows the Asian theme with competent Thai dishes such as chicken in red curry, and pad thai noodles, which – unusually for a Prague restaurant – have a hefty chilli kick.

(%257 311 411; www.noirestaurant.cz; Újezd 19; mains 180-290Kč; h11am-1am; W; j12, 20, 22)

Drinking

6Mlýnská KavárnaBAR

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This cafe-bar in Kampa Park has existed in various guises since the communist era, and you might still hear it called Tato Kejkej, its previous incarnation, or just Mlýn (the mill). A wooden footbridge leads from Kampa to the smoky, dimly lit interior, which is peopled with local artists (David Černý is a regular), writers and politicians (look out for Czech statesman Karel Schwarzenberg).

(%257 313 222; Všehrdova 14; hnoon-midnight; W; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22)

Sampling Czech beers, Malá Strana

RADIM BEZNOSKA/ALAMY ©

6Klub ÚjezdBAR

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Klub Újezd is one of Prague’s many ‘alternative’ bars, spread over three floors (DJs in the cellar, and a cafe upstairs) and filled with a fascinating collection of original art and weird wrought-iron sculptures. Clamber onto a two-tonne bar stool in the agreeably grungy street-level bar, and sip on a beer beneath a scaly, fire-breathing sea monster.

(%251 510 873; www.klubujezd.cz; Újezd 18; h2pm-4am; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22)

6Baráčnická RychtaBEER HALL

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Tucked away along a winding street, this atmospheric 19th-century beer hall feels a bit furtive and secretive. In the small upstairs bar you can sup four types of Svijanský beer as well as the more common Pilsner Urquell; food is also served. Downstairs, the larger Cabaret Hall hosts big bands and offbeat live gigs.

(%257 532 461; www.baracnickarychta.cz; Tržiště 23; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; j12, 20, 22 to Malostranské náměstí)

6KafíčkoCAFE

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This little cafe, with cream walls, bentwood chairs, fresh flowers and arty photographs, is an unexpected setting for some of Prague’s best tea and coffee. Choose from a wide range of quality roasted beans from all over the world, freshly ground and made into espresso, cappuccino or latte (40Kč to 55Kč).

(%724 151 795; Míšeñská 10; h10am-10pm; c; j12, 20, 22)

6Blue LightCOCKTAIL BAR

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The Blue Light is a dark and atmospheric hang-out, as popular with locals as with tourists, where you can sip a caipirinha or cranberry colada as you cast an eye over the vintage jazz posters, records, old photographs and decades-worth of scratched graffiti that adorn the walls. The background jazz is recorded rather than live, and never overpowers your conversation. Often heaving on weekend nights.

(%257 533 126; www.bluelightbar.cz; Josefská 1; h6pm-3am; j12, 20, 22)

Entertainment

6U Malého GlenaBAR

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‘Little Glen’s’ is a lively, American-owned bar and restaurant where hard-swinging local jazz or blues bands play every night in the cramped and steamy stone-vaulted cellar. There are Sunday-night jam sessions where amateurs are welcome (as long as you’re good). It’s a small venue, so get here early if you want to see as well as hear the band.

(%257 531 717; www.malyglen.cz; Karmelitská 23; h10am-2am, to 3am Fri & Sat, music from 8.30pm; W; j12, 20, 22)

6Malostranská besedaBAR, CLUB

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Malá Strana’s four-storey pleasure palace reopened in 2010 after a five-year reconstruction. The fabled music club on the 2nd floor is better than ever, with a lively roster of cabaret acts, jazz and old Czech rockers. There’s also an art gallery on the top floor and a big beer hall in the basement, with a bar and restaurant on the ground floor.

(%257 409 123; www.malostranska-beseda.cz; Malostranské náměstí 21; shows 120-250Kč; hbar 4pm-1am, box office 5-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; j12, 20, 22)

Understand

Kafka’s Neighbourhood

‘Someone must have been telling lies about Josef K, for without having done anything wrong, he was arrested one fine morning’ – that opening line to Franz Kafka’s    The Trial (1925) is widely considered among the greatest in world literature. The words are also a testament to Prague’s disorientating nature; and in the writer’s home city it’s hard not to be moved by his genius. Of course, it’s simple to pay tribute to Kafka by visiting his birthplace or grave, but true fans will want to use the opportunity to delve more into the novelist’s complex relationship with Prague, which he complained was small and claustrophobic but got under your skin. The Franz Kafka Museum is just the place.

Shopping

7Marionety TruhlářCRAFTS

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On a back street beneath the western end of Charles Bridge, this palace of puppetry stocks traditional marionettes from more than 40 workshops around the Czech Republic, as well as offering DIY puppet kits, courses on puppet-making, and the chance to order a custom-made marionette in your own (or anyone else's) likeness.

(%606 924 392; www.marionety.com; U Lužického semináře 5; h10am-7pm; j12, 20, 22)

7ArtělGLASS, INTERIOR DESIGN

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Traditional Bohemian glassmaking meets modern design in this stylish shop founded by US designer Karen Feldman. In addition to hand-blown designer crystal, you can find a range of vintage and modern items of Czech design, from jewellery and ceramics to toys and stationery.

(www.artelglass.com; U Lužickeho semináře 7; h10am-7pm; j12, 20, 22)

7Shakespeare & SonsBOOKS

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Though its shelves groan with a formidable range of literature in English, French and German, this is more than just a bookshop – it's a congenial literary hang-out with knowledgable staff, occasional author events, and a cool downstairs space for sitting and reading. Also has Prague's best range of titles on Eastern European history.

(%257 531 894; www.shakes.cz; U Lužického semináře 10; h11am-9pm; j12, 20, 22)

7Pavla & OlgaFASHION

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Sisters Pavla and Olga Michalková originally worked in the film and TV industry before setting up their own fashion label, creating a unique collection of quirky and cute hats, clothes and accessories. Past customers have included Czech supermodel Tereza Maxová, Britpop band Blur and photographer Helmut Newton.

(%728 939 872; Tržiště 3; h2-6pm Mon-Fri; j12, 20, 22)

l

Local Life

Beer & Culture in Smíchov

Standing in contrast to the fairy-tale historic sphere of castles and royal gardens, working-class Smíchov is a mainly industrial district on the Vltava’s western bank. With its vibrant contemporary-art scene and unpretentious bars, the slightly gritty neighbourhood offers an authentic taste of Czech life, though its character is slowly changing with the construction of modern office complexes and an influx of new businesses.

Getting There

m Line B to Anděl.

j Lines 4, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20 all pass through Smíchov, stopping at Anděl.

1 Jazz on the River

Jazz Dock ( GOOGLE MAP ; %774 058 838; www.jazzdock.cz; Janáčkovo nábřeží 2, Smíchov; admission 150Kč; h4pm-3am; mAnděl, j7, 9, 12, 14), Smíchov's riverside jazz venue, is a step up from the typical Prague club, with clean, modern decor and a romantic view out over the Vltava. It draws some of the best international acts. Go early or book to get a good table.

2 Avant-Garde Theatre at Švandovo divadlo

The funky Švandovo divadlo (Švandovo Theatre in Smíchov; GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 257 318 666; www.svandovodivadlo.cz; Štefánikova 57, Smíchov; tickets 150-300Kč; hbox office 2-8pm Mon-Fri, 2hr before performances Sat & Sun; j6, 9, 12, 20) stages avant-garde dramatic pieces, many with English subtitles, and acoustic music performances. It also hosts art exhibits and events.

3 Modern Art at Futura

The Futura Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %604 738 390; www.futuraprojekt.cz; Holečkova 49, Smíchov; admission by donation; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun; j4, 7, 9, 10) is home to Brown-nosers (2003) by David Černý: stick your head inside the statue’s backside to see a video of the former Czech president and the National Gallery's director feeding each other baby food.

4 Czech Food at Zlatý klas

Cosy Pilsner Urquell restaurant Zlatý klas ( GOOGLE MAP ; %251 562 539; www.zlatyklas.cz; Plzeňská 9, Smíchov; mains 130-200Kč; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, 11.30am-1am Fri & Sat; mAnděl) is beloved for its hearty, well-prepared Czech cuisine – try the killer 'Charles IV' baked pork ribs – plus ultrafresh tankova (tanked) beer.

5 Dancing at the 'Bulldog'

Popular pub Hospoda U Buldoka (At the Bulldog; GOOGLE MAP ; www.ubuldoka.cz; Preslova 1, Smíchov; hbar 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-11pm Sun; club 8pm-4am Mon-Sat; W; mAnděl) is a great place to drink – and a surprisingly good place to let your hair down, too. Don't expect sophisticated club ambience: this is a beer-fueled, dance-till-you-drop joint.

6 Beer at the Staropramen Brewery

To soak up some of Smíchov’s down-to-earth charm – and feel the gentrification that’s currently underway – pull up a barstool at Na Verandách ( GOOGLE MAP ; %257 191 200; www.phnaverandach.cz; Nádražní 84, Smíchov; mains 150-280Kč; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat, to 11pm Sun; W; mAnděl, j7, 12, 14, 20 to Na Knížecí), housed in the Staropramen Brewery (operating since 1871). In summer, sit outside on the terrace.

7 Cultural Events at 'Meet Factory'

For cutting-edge film screenings, concerts, theatrical performances and art installations, find out what’s happening at David Černý’s Meet Factory ( GOOGLE MAP ; %251 551 796; www.meetfactory.cz; Ke Sklárně 15, Smíchov; j12, 14, 20 to Lihovar), a multifaceted gallery and entertainment venue (look for hanging red cars on the outside).

Jewish Museum & Josefov

Peaceful Josefov is the site of the former Jewish ghetto – the physical, cultural and spiritual home to the city's Jewish population for nearly 800 years. While many Jews left the quarter when it was renovated in the early 20th century (and tens of thousands were killed in the Holocaust), the surviving synagogues and cemetery make up the popular Jewish Museum.

DE AGOSTINI/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Arrive at the Jewish Museum first thing in the morning and head for the Old Jewish Cemetery – the place is much more atmospheric when you’re not with a huge crowd. Stop in at the Maisel Synagogue and the Pinkas Synagogue, then take a well-deserved coffee break at Bakeshop Praha – and treat yourself to a chocolate croissant while you’re at it. Properly caffeinated? Move on to a minitour of the beautiful Spanish Synagogue.

R Stop for a late lunch – including a beer, of course – at classy corner pub Kolkovna. You’ll be near the Franz Kafka Monument, which is fun for a quick look (and photo op). Spend the rest of the afternoon at either the Museum of Decorative Arts for design or the Convent of St Agnes for medieval and Gothic art.

N For dinner, there's Lokál for a classic Czech meal or Chagall's for something French and fancier. Afterwards, choose from a classical concert at the Dvořák Hall or opt for an edgier evening at the hollowed-out former theatre Roxy. Before or after the show, stop in at Tretter’s New York Bar for an expertly prepared martini.

1  Top Sights

Jewish Museum

Old Jewish Cemetery

x  Best of Prague

Bars & Pubs

Kolkovna

Tretter’s New York Bar

U Rudolfina

Food

Bakeshop Praha

Lokál

Chagall's

History

Old-New Synagogue

Spanish Synagogue

Nightlife

Roxy

6  Drinking

Prague Beer Museum

7  Shopping

Boheme

TEG

Dušní 3

Getting There

m Metro Line A to Staroměstská.

j Tram Lines 17, 18 to Staroměstská; lines 5, 8, 26 to Dlouhá třída.

1

Top Sights

Jewish Museum

Prague’s Jewish Museum is among the city's most visited sights. It was established in 1906 to preserve artefacts from the quarter after it was razed and renovated in the late-19th and early-20th centuries. Exhibits are scattered among a handful of synagogues and focus on Jewish life and traditions. Highlights include the Pinkas Synagogue and its memorial to Czech and Moravian Jews killed in the Holocaust.

Holocaust memorial, Pinkas Synagogue

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Židovské muzeum Praha; %222 317 191; www.jewishmuseum.cz; Reservation Centre, U starého hřbitova 3a; ordinary ticket adult/child 300/200Kč, combined ticket incl entry to Old-New Synagogue 480/320Kč; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; mStaroměstská

y Top Tips

A The museum is closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays.

A Entry is by combined ticket only; it's not possible to visit the sites individually.

A Men must cover their heads. Yarmulkes (skullcaps) are provided at entrances.

A The Old-New Synagogue is not considered part of the museum and requires a separate admission ticket.

5 Take a Break

Stop for some of the city’s best gourmet coffee and pastries at nearby Bakeshop Praha.

For a good pint of beer in the vicinity of the Spanish Synagogue, head to corner pub Kolkovna.

Don’t Miss

Klaus Synagogue & Ceremonial Hall

Both the baroque Klaus Synagogue (Klauzová synagóga; GOOGLE MAP ; www.jewishmuseum.cz; U starého hřbitova 1; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; j17, 18) and the nearby Ceremonial Hall (Obřadní síň; GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; j17) contain exhibits on Jewish health and burial traditions and will be of most interest to historians or devout visitors.

Maisel Synagogue

Mordechai Maisel was mayor of the Jewish quarter under the liberal rule of Emperor Rudolf II during the 16th century. He was also the richest man in the city of Prague; in addition to various public works, he paid for this synagogue (Maiselova synagóga; GOOGLE MAP ; Maiselova 10; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; mStaroměstská) to be built for his private use. Today, it houses rotating exhibitions.

Pinkas Synagogue

Built in 1535, this synagogue (Pinkasova synagóga; GOOGLE MAP ; www.jewishmuseum.cz; Široká 3; incl in admission to Prague Jewish Museum; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; mStaroměstská) was used for worship until 1941; it’s now a moving Holocaust memorial, its walls inscribed with the names, birth dates and dates of disappearance of 77,297 Czech Jews. Also here is a poignant exhibition of drawings made by children held at the Terezín concentration camp (north of Prague) during World War II.

Spanish Synagogue

Considered the most beautiful of the museum’s synagogues, this 19th-century Moorish-style building (Španělská synagóga; GOOGLE MAP ; www.jewishmuseum.cz; Vězeňská 1; incl in admission to Prague Jewish Museum; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; mStaroměstská) boasts an ornate interior, an exhibition on recent Jewish history and a handy bookshop.

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Top Sights

Old Jewish Cemetery

City authorities once insisted that deceased Jews be interred only here – nowhere else – so by the time this cemetery stopped taking new burials in 1787 it was full to bursting. Today it holds more than 12,000 tombstones – though as the Jewish Museum points out, many more than that are buried here. Be aware that conditions at this popular attraction sometimes feel almost as crowded for the living as for the dead.

Old Jewish Cemetery

JAMES STRACHAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Starý židovský hřbitov; www.jewishmuseum.cz; Pinkas Synagogue, Široká 3; included in admission to Prague Jewish Museum; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; mStaroměstská

y Top Tips

A Entry to the cemetery is included in the general Jewish Museum admission ticket.

A Arrive early as the cemetery gets increasingly busy as the day goes on.

A Remember that you’re in a cemetery – always be careful where you step.

5 Take a Break

Stylish Mistral Cafe is a short walk from the cemetery and is great for coffee or food.

Also nearby is U Rudolfina, a down-to-earth local pub with some of the city's best Pilsner Urquell.

Don’t Miss

Rabbi Loew’s Tomb

Sometimes called ‘the Jewish hero of the Czechs’, Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel (1525–1609) was a respected scholar and the chief rabbi of Bohemia in the 16th century. Perhaps more importantly to Czech people, he’s part of a legend surrounding the creation of the Golem, a creature he supposedly built from clay to protect the Jewish people living in Prague’s ghetto.

Mordechai Maisel’s Tomb

This tomb honours a philanthropist with some incredibly deep pockets. In addition to serving as a Jewish leader in the 16th century, Maisel was the city’s wealthiest citizen. He paid for the construction of new buildings in the ghetto, had the roads paved, commissioned the Maisel Synagogue for his own private use and even lent money to Emperor Rudolf II.

David Gans’ Tomb

A noted German historian and astronomer, Gans came to Prague in part to hear the lectures of Rabbi Loew. He’s perhaps most famous for his association with Tycho Brahe, who asked Gans to translate the Alphonsine Tables from Hebrew to German.

Joseph Solomon Delmedigo’s Tomb

Another impressive Jewish intellectual represented in the cemetery is Joseph Solomon Delmedigo, who was both a physician and a philosopher. He studied and worked all over Europe before finally settling in Prague in 1648 to write various scientific texts.

1 Top Sights

Prague Jewish Museum  B3

Old Jewish Cemetery  A3

1 Sights

1Old-New Synagogue  B3

2Museum of Decorative Arts  A3

3Convent of St Agnes  D2

4Franz Kafka Monument  C3

5 Eating

5Bakeshop Praha  D3

6Kolkovna  C3

7Lokál  E3

8Chagall's  D3

9Mistral Café  A4

10Fish & Chips  D3

6 Drinking

11Tretter's New York Bar  C3

12Kozička  D3

13James Joyce  D2

14Prague Beer Museum  E3

3 Entertainment

15Dvořák Hall  A3

16Roxy  E2

17Image Theatre  C4

7 Shopping

18TEG  C3

19Klara Nademlýnská  C4

20Bohème  C3

21Granát Turnov  D3

Sights

1Old-New SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

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Completed around 1270, the Old-New Synagogue is Europe’s oldest working synagogue and one of Prague’s earliest Gothic buildings. You step down into it, as it predates the raising of Staré Město’s street level in medieval times to guard against floods. Men must cover their heads (a hat or bandanna will do; paper yarmulkes are handed out at the entrance).

(Staronová synagóga; www.jewishmuseum.cz; Červená 2; adult/child 200/140Kč; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; j17)

1Museum of Decorative ArtsMUSEUM

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This museum opened in 1900 as part of a European movement to encourage a return to the aesthetic values sacrificed to the Industrial Revolution. Its four halls are a feast for the eyes, full of 16th- to 19th-century artefacts such as furniture, tapestries, porcelain and a fabulous collection of glasswork.

(Umělecko-průmyslové muzeum; %251 093 111; www.upm.cz; 17.listopadu 2; whole gallery adult/child 120/70Kč, temp exhibition only 80/40Kč; h10am-7pm Tue, to 6pm Wed-Sun; j17)

1Convent of St AgnesGALLERY

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In the northeastern corner of Staré Město is the former Convent of St Agnes, Prague’s oldest surviving Gothic building. The 1st-floor rooms hold the National Gallery’s permanent collection of medieval and early-Renaissance art (1200–1550) from Bohemia and Central Europe, a treasure house of glowing Gothic altar paintings and polychrome religious sculptures.

(Klášter sv Anežky; %224 810 628; www.ngprague.cz; U Milosrdných 17; adult/child 150/80Kč; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; j5, 8, 24)

1Franz Kafka MonumentMONUMENT

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Commissioned by Prague's Franz Kafka Society in 2003, Jaroslav Róna's unusual sculpture of a mini Kafka riding on the shoulders of a giant empty suit was based on the writer's story Description of a Struggle, in which the author explores a fantasy landscape from the shoulders of 'an acquaintance' (who may be another aspect of the author's personality).

(cnr Vězeňská & Dušní; mStaroměstská)

Understand

Golem City

Tales of golems, or servants created from clay, date back to early Judaism. However, the most famous such mythical creature belonged to 16th-century Prague’s Rabbi Loew, of the Old-New Synagogue. Loew is said to have used mud from the Vltava’s banks to create a golem to protect the Prague ghetto. However, left alone one Sabbath, the creature ran amok and Rabbi Loew was forced to rush out of a service and remove the magic talisman that kept it moving. He then carried the lifeless body into the synagogue’s attic, where some insist it remains. In 1915, Gustav Meyrink’s novel    Der Golem reprised the story and brought it into the European mainstream.

Eating

5Bakeshop PrahaBAKERY, SANDWICHES €

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This fantastic bakery sells some of the best bread in the city, along with pastries, cakes and takeaway sandwiches, wraps, salads and quiche. Very busy at lunchtime.

(%222 316 823; www.bakeshop.cz; Kozí 1; sandwiches 75-200Kč; h7am-9pm; mStaroměstská)

5KolkovnaCZECH €€

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Owned and operated by the Pilsner Urquell brewery, Kolkovna is a stylish, modern take on the traditional Prague pub, with decor by top Czech designers, and posh (but hearty) versions of classic Czech dishes such as goulash, roast duck and Moravian sparrow, as well as the Czech favourite, roast pork knuckle. All washed down with exquisite Urquell beer, of course.

(%224 819 701; www.kolkovna-restaurant.cz; V Kolkovně 8; mains 110-360Kč; h11am-midnight; W; mStaroměstská)

5LokálCZECH €

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Who’d have thought it possible? A classic Czech beer hall (albeit with slick modern styling); excellent tankové pivo (tanked Pilsner Urquell); a daily changing menu of traditional Bohemian dishes; efficient, friendly service; and a no-smoking area! Top restaurant chain Ambiente has turned its hand to Czech cuisine, and the result has been so successful that the place is always busy, mostly with locals.

(%222 316 265; lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz; Dlouhá 33; mains 110-270Kč; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat, noon-10pm Sun; j5, 8, 24)

5Chagall'sFRENCH €€€

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Stylishly understated decor in black, white and grey (with a hint of a Czech cubist vibe) is leavened with splashes of colour from old oil paintings and coloured fabrics in this sophisticated dining room. But it's the warmth of the welcome you notice first, closely followed by the quality of the menu – fresh seasonal produce prepared with Gallic care and flair.

(%739 002 347; www.chagalls.cz; Kozí 5; mains lunch 160-300Kč, dinner 460-510Kč; h11am-midnight; W; j5, 8, 24)

5Mistral CaféBISTRO €

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Is this the coolest bistro in the Old Town? Pale stone, bleached birchwood and potted shrubs make for a clean, crisp, modern look, and the clientele of local students and office workers clearly appreciate the competitively priced, well-prepared food. Fish and chips in crumpled brown paper with lemon and black-pepper mayo – yum!

(%222 317 737; www.mistralcafe.cz; Valentinská 11; mains 100-260Kč; h10am-11pm; W; mStaroměstská)

5Fish & ChipsFISH & CHIPS €€

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Prague's first proper fish-and-chip shop goes a bit over the top with its 'British' theme, sporting white London Underground tiles, chandeliers, a red telephone box, and photos of the Beatles, Prince Charles and a Mini. But the eponymous signature dish is pretty good – crisp battered cod and chunky chips, with malt vinegar and Heinz ketchup. Takeaway available.

(%606 881 414; fishandchipsprague.cz; Dlouhá 21; mains 200-270Kč; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; j5, 8, 24)

Understand

Jewish Prague

Jews have been part of Prague for as long as it has existed, though their status has ebbed and flowed. For centuries, Jews were restricted to living in a small corner of the Old Town (today's Josefov). Some periods brought terror and pogroms, while others – the early 17th century – brought prosperity. In the 19th century, Jews were allowed to live outside their ghetto, but a century later most were murdered by the occupying Nazis.

Early Oppression

Jews began living in Prague in the 10th century, and by the 11th century the city was one of Europe’s most important Jewish centres. The Crusades marked the start of the Jews’ plight as the city’s oldest synagogue was burned to the ground. By the end of the 12th century, they lost many rights; soon they were forced into a walled ghetto that was locked at night. For years, Jews remained third-class citizens while emperors and the nobility argued over who should be in charge of Jewish affairs.

The Golden Age

The mid-16th to early 17th century is considered the golden age of Jewish history. Emperor Rudolf II (r 1576–1612) worked closely with Mayor Mordechai Maisel (1528–1601), at the time the wealthiest man in Prague. The community was led in spirit by noted mystic and Talmudic scholar Rabbi Loew (1525–1609).

Emancipation came in the 18th century under Habsburg Emperor Josef II. In 1848, Jews won the right of abode, meaning they could live where they wanted. The ghetto's walls were torn down and the Jewish quarter was renamed Josefov (to honour Josef II). As wealthy Jews moved out, the area slid into squalor. At the end of the 19th century, the area was levelled and rebuilt in art nouveau splendour.

Destruction & Preservation

The Jewish community was largely destroyed by the Nazis in World War II, and only a few thousand Jews remain. One historic irony is that many of the Jewish Museum's holdings come from shtetls (Jewish villages) liquidated by the Nazis. Hitler had the artefacts brought here, chillingly, to build a 'museum of an extinct race'.

Drinking

6Tretter’s New York BarBAR

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This sultry 1930s Manhattan-style cocktail bar harks back to gentler times when people went out for nightcaps – and when the drinks were stiff and properly made. Regularly cited as one of the city’s top bars, Tretter’s brings in the beautiful people and has prices to match. Book your table in advance.

(%224 811 165; www.tretters.cz; V Kolkovně 3; h7pm-2am; mStaroměstská)

6KozičkaBAR

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The ‘Little Goat’ is a buzzing, red-brick basement bar decorated with cute goat sculptures, serving Krušovice on tap at 45Kč for 0.5L (though watch out – the bartenders will occasionally sling you a 1L tuplák if they think you’re a tourist). It fills up later in the evening with a mostly Czech crowd, and makes a civilised setting for a late-night session.

(%224 818 308; www.kozicka.cz; Kozí 1; h4pm-4am Mon-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri, 6pm-4am Sat, 7pm-3am Sun; W; mStaroměstská)

Czech draught beer

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

6James JoycePUB

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You probably don't go to Prague to visit an Irish bar, but if you're here in winter this friendly pub offers something rarely seen in Prague bars: an open fire. Toast your toes while sipping a Guinness, or downing the all-day Irish breakfast fry, including Clonakilty black pudding.

(%224 818 851; www.jamesjoyceprague.cz; U obecního dvora 4; h11am-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; j5,8,24)

6Prague Beer MuseumPUB

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Although the name seems aimed at the tourist market, this lively and always heaving pub is very popular with Praguers. There are no fewer than 30 Czech-produced beers on tap (plus a beer menu with tasting notes to guide you). Try a sample board – a wooden platter with five 0.15L glasses containing five beers of your choice.

(%732 330 912; www.praguebeermuseum.com; Dlouhá 46; hnoon-3am; W; j5, 8, 14)

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Local Life

Beer from a Tank

To counter growing interest among Czech beer-drinkers in microbrews and regional beers, the big national brewers have come up with some gimmicks of their own. The most popular of these is 'tank' beer (tankové pivo), where beer is delivered and stored in enormous tanks (instead of smaller kegs) to keep it fresher and more flavourful.

Several nearby pubs offer tank beer, including the ever-popular pubs Lokál and Kolkovna, as well as old-school joints like U Rudolfina ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 328 758; Křižovnická 10; h11am-10pm ; mStaroměstská). Look for the sign 'pivo z tanku' (beer from the tank).

Entertainment

3Dvořák HallCONCERT VENUE

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The Dvořák Hall in the neo-Renaissance Rudolfinum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %227 059 270; www.ceskafilharmonie.cz; Alšovo nábřeží 12; j17, 18) is home to the world-renowned Czech Philharmonic Orchestra (Česká filharmonie). Sit back and be impressed by some of the best classical musicians in Prague.

(Dvořákova síň; %227 059 227; www.ceskafilharmonie.cz; náměstí Jana Palacha 1; tickets 120-800Kč; hbox office 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri; mStaroměstská)

3RoxyLIVE MUSIC

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Set in the ramshackle shell of an art deco cinema, the legendary Roxy has nurtured the more independent and innovative end of Prague’s club spectrum since 1987 – this is the place to see the Czech Republic’s top DJs. On the 1st floor is NoD, an ‘experimental space’ that stages drama, dance, performance art, cinema and live music. Best nightspot in Staré Město.

(%224 826 296; www.roxy.cz; Dlouhá 33; admission Fri & Sat free-300Kč; h7pm-5am; j5, 8, 14)

3Image TheatrePERFORMING ARTS

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Founded in 1989, this company uses creative black-light theatre along with pantomime, modern dance and video – not to mention liberal doses of slapstick – to tell its stories. The staging can be very effective, but the atmosphere is often dictated by audience reaction.

(Divadlo Image; %222 314 448; www.imagetheatre.cz; Pařížská 4; tickets 480Kč; hbox office 9am-8pm; mStaroměstská)

Shopping

7TEGFASHION

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TEG (Timoure et Group) is the design team created by Alexandra Pavalová and Ivana Šafránková, two of Prague’s most respected fashion designers. This boutique showcases their quarterly collections, which feature a sharp, imaginative look that adds zest and sophistication to everyday, wearable clothes. There's a second branch near Národní třída.

(%222 327 358; www.timoure.cz; V Kolkovně 6; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; mStaroměstská)

7Klara NademlýnskáFASHION

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Klara Nademlýnská is one of the Czech Republic’s top fashion designers, having trained in Prague and worked for almost a decade in Paris. Her clothes are characterised by clean lines, simple styling and quality materials, making for a very wearable range that covers the spectrum from swimwear to evening wear via jeans, halter tops, colourful blouses and sharply styled suits.

(%224 818 769; www.klaranademlynska.cz; Dlouhá 3; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; mStaroměstská)

7BohèmeFASHION

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This boutique showcases the designs of Hana Stocklassa and her associates, with collections of knitwear, leather and suede clothes for women. Sweaters, turtlenecks, suede skirts, linen blouses, knit dresses and stretch denim suits seem to be the stock in trade, and there’s a range of jewellery to choose from as well.

(%224 813 840; www.boheme.cz; Dušní 8; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; mStaroměstská)

7Granát TurnovJEWELLERY

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Part of the country’s biggest jewellery chain, Granát Turnov specialises in Bohemian garnet, and has a huge range of gold and silver rings, brooches, cuff links and necklaces featuring these small, blood-red stones. There’s also pearl and diamond jewellery, and less expensive pieces set with the dark-green semiprecious stone known in Czech as vltavín (moldavite).

(%222 315 612; www.granat.eu; Dlouhá 28-30; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; mNáměstí Republiky)

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Local Life

Home of Fashion Boutiques

Josefov is home to the nascent Czech fashion scene, particularly small, independent boutiques that highlight the best of local and international design. For the latter, check out Dušní 3 ( GOOGLE MAP ; %234 095 870; www.dusni3.cz; Dušní 3; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mStaroměstská), a self-styled alternative to the megabrand stores on nearby Pařížská. You'll find a range of ready-to-wear fashion and accessories from top designers, including Tara Jarmon, Ilaria Nistri and Vivienne Westwood. They've got an excellent line of shoes and sunglasses as well.

Old Town Square & Staré Město

Staré Město (Old Town), with its evocative medieval square, maze of alleyways, and quirky sights like the Astronomical Clock, is the beating heart of the historic centre. Its origins date back to the 10th century, when a marketplace emerged on the Vltava’s eastern bank. A thousand years later, it’s as alive as ever, and surprisingly little changed by time.

WWW.CREATIVEPHOTOGRAPHY.GR BY SPYROS TAV/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M For the quietest experience and most magical views of Charles Bridge, start your morning as early as possible. Start on the Malá Strana side and cross the bridge towards the Old Town. Be sure to climb the Old Town Bridge Tower. Then make a beeline for the Astronomical Clock to catch the famous hourly chiming before the tourist crowds start to multiply.

R Afterwards, take the lift up the Old Town Hall Tower for views over Old Town Sq and the historic centre. Have a leisurely lunch at Kalina, sampling gourmet versions of Czech dishes from the tasting menu. Then, wander the quaint cobblestone backstreets around Betlémské náměstí, stopping in to see Jan Hus’ old stomping ground at Bethlehem Chapel.

N As night falls, head back to Old Town Sq to view the beautifully illuminated Church of St Nicholas and Church of Our Lady Before Týn. Have dinner on the terrace of U Prince or take a glass of Moravian wine in a glamorous setting at the Municipal House's cafe. Catch some live jazz at AghaRTA Jazz Centrum to finish off the day.

1  Top Sights

Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock

Charles Bridge

x  Best of Prague

Bars & Pubs

Hemingway Bar

Čili Bar

U Tří růží

Food

V Zátiší

Kalina

George Prime Steak

Art

Hanging Out

Municipal House

Museums

Charles Bridge Museum

Kinský Palace

Getting There

m Metro Take line A to Staroměstská (the closest stop to Old Town Square) or line A or B to Můstek.

j Tram Lines 17 and 18 run to Staroměstská; lines 5, 8 and 26 stop at Dlouhá třída.

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Top Sights

Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock

Laid with cobblestones and surrounded by spectacular baroque churches, soaring spires, candy-coloured buildings and a rococo palace, Old Town Sq is an architectural smorgasbord and a photographer’s delight. While the Astronomical Clock – a mechanical marvel that still chimes on the hour – is more than 600 years old, many of Old Town Sq’s structures are even older: settlers started moving here across the river from Prague Castle as far back as the 10th century.

Astronomical Clock, Old Town Square

KORD.COM/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Staroměstské náměstí; mStaroměstská

y Top Tips

A For the best views of the Astronomical Clock, come to the chiming at 9am or 10am. Arrive a few minutes before the hour.

A Look for lively food and craft stalls in Old Town Sq around major holidays like Christmas and Easter.

A Climb (or take the lift) up the clock tower for spectacular views over Old Town Sq. Again, earlier is better.

A The most romantic time to visit the square is after dark, when the medieval buildings are beautifully illuminated.

5 Take a Break

Have a gourmet lunch at Kalina, where fresh Czech produce is given a serious gastronomic twist

At night, you're spoiled for choice. Čili Bar is a perfect romantic hideway. Hemingway Bar has the city's best cocktails, but reserve in advance.

Don’t Miss

Astronomical Clock

Built in 1490 by a master clockmaker named Hanuš, the Astronomical Clock ( GOOGLE MAP ; Staroměstské náměstí; hchimes on the hour 9am-9pm; mStaroměstská) was a scientific feat in its day – even after various renovations, it remains a paradigm of antique technology. On the hour (from 9am to 9pm), crowds gather below for its quaint visual display, (see Click here).

Old Town Hall Clock Tower

Old Town Hall, dating from 1338, has more to offer than its clock. Climb (or take the lift) up the clock tower (Věž radnice; GOOGLE MAP ; %236 002 629; www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz; Staroměstské náměstí 1; adult/child 100/50Kč, incl Old Town Hall 160Kč; h11am-10pm Mon, 9am-10pm Tue-Sun; mStaroměstská) for privileged views over Old Town Sq and the historic city centre.

Jan Hus Statue

Sitting near the centre of the square, Ladislav Šaloun’s brooding art nouveau statue of Jan Hus was unveiled on 6 July 1915, the 500th anniversary of Hus’ death at the stake.

Church of Our Lady Before Týn

Straight out of a 15th-century fairy tale, the spiky, spooky Gothic spires of Church of Our Lady Before Týn (Kostel Panny Marie před Týnem; GOOGLE MAP ; %222 318 186; www.tyn.cz; Staroměstské náměstí; suggested donation 25Kč; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-noon Sun Mar-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Feb; mStaroměstská), aka Týn Church, are an unmistakable Old Town landmark. It also houses the tomb of Tycho Brahe.

Church of St Nicholas

This pretty baroque monastery (Kostel sv Mikuláše; GOOGLE MAP ; www.svmikulas.cz/en; Staroměstské náměstí; h10am-4pm; mStaroměstská) is relatively new: finished in 1735, it replaced a Gothic church built here in the late 13th century. After several incarnations it now serves as a Czechoslovak Hussite church and a classical concert venue.

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Top Sights

Charles Bridge

You know a historic landmark is something special when even the crush of tourist traffic hardly takes away from its magnificence. So it is with Charles Bridge, Prague’s signature monument. Commissioned in 1357, the massive, 520m-long stone bridge was the only link across the Vltava River between Prague Castle and the Old Town until 1741. It’s particularly awe-inspiring at dawn, when the silhouettes of saintly statues along both sides seem to guide you towards the towering hilltop fortress.

Charles Bridge at dawn

ILAN SHACHAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Karlův most; h24hr; j17, 18 to Karlovy lázně, 12, 20, 22 to Malostranské náměstí

y Top Tips

A Visit the bridge early in the day to beat the crowds.

A Keep your valuables close at hand: pickpockets lurk here, especially in summer.

A Plan to cross the bridge at least twice – once towards the castle and once away from it.

A Sunrise is the ideal time for photos. In winter if it starts snowing, head for the bridge to capture some unforgettable images.

5 Take a Break

Not far from the entrance to the Old Town side of the bridge, the student cafe Krásný ztráty is a great place to relax over a coffee or beer.

Splurge on a gourmet meal paired with Czech wine at Bellevue or V zátiší; both are close to the Old Town side of the bridge.

Don’t Miss

View from the Old Town Bridge Tower

Perched at the eastern end of Charles Bridge, the elegant late-14th-century Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž; GOOGLE MAP ; %224 220 569; en.muzeumprahy.cz/prague-towers; Charles Bridge; adult/child 90/65Kč; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Mar & Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb; j17, 18) was built not only as a fortification but also as a triumphal arch marking the entrance to the Old Town. Head upstairs for the dramatic view down over the crowded bridge.

Saintly Statues

The first monument erected on the bridge was the crucifix near the eastern end, in 1657. The first statue – the Jesuits’ 1683 tribute to St John of Nepomuk – inspired other Catholic orders, and over the next 30 years a score more went up. Today most are copies, but a few of the originals can be seen at the Brick Gate & Casements at the Vyšehrad Citadel.

Rubbing St John of Nepomuk

The most famous statue is that of St John of Nepomuk, on the northern side of the bridge about halfway across. According to legend, Wenceslas IV had him thrown off the bridge in 1393 for refusing to divulge the queen’s confessions (he was her priest). Tradition says if you rub the bronze plaque, you will one day return to Prague.

Charles Bridge Museum

Examine the history of the Vltava’s most famous crossing at the Charles Bridge Museum (Muzeum Karlova Mostu; GOOGLE MAP ; %776 776 779; www.charlesbridgemuseum.com; Křížovnické náměstí 3; adult/concession 150/70Kč; h10am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr; j17, 18), located near the bridge’s Old Town entrance. When you learn about the bridge’s tumultuous 650-year history, including at least two perilous encounters with floods, you’ll be surprised it’s still standing.

1 Top Sights

Old Town Square  C2

Charles Bridge  A2

1 Sights

1Municipal House  E2

2Powder Gate  E2

3Kinský Palace  C1

4Bethlehem Chapel  B3

5Klementinum  A2

6Church of St James  D1

7Viselec (David Černý Sculpture)  B3

5 Eating

8Kalina  C1

9Ambiente Pizza Nuova  E1

10V zátiší  B3

11Bellevue  A3

12George Prime Steak  B2

13Indian Jewel  D1

6 Drinking

14U Tří růží  B3

Kavárna Obecní dům  E2

15Krásný ztráty  A3

16Hemingway Bar  A3

17Čili Bar  C2

18Grand Cafe Orient  D2

19U Zlatého Tygra  B3

3 Entertainment

Smetana Hall  E2

20Estates Theatre  D3

21AghaRTA Jazz Centrum  C2

22Jazz Club U Staré Paní  C3

23Blues Sklep  B3

7 Shopping

24Art Deco Galerie  C3

25Botanicus  D1

26Manufaktura  C2

Modernista  E2

27Material  D1

28Pohádka  D2

Sights

1Municipal HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

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Restored in the 1990s after decades of neglect, Prague’s most exuberant and sensual building is a labour of love, every detail of its design and decoration carefully considered, every painting and sculpture loaded with symbolism. The restaurant and cafe flanking the entrance are like walk-in museums of art nouveau design; upstairs are half a dozen sumptuously decorated halls that you can visit by guided tour.

(Obecní dům; %222 002 101; www.obecnidum.cz; náměstí Republiky 5; guided tour adult/concession/child under 10yr 290/240Kč/free; hpublic areas 7.30am-11pm, information centre 10am-8pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

Municipal House and Powder Gate

JOHN FREEMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Powder GateTOWER

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The 65m-tall Powder Gate was begun in 1475 on the site of one of Staré Město’s original 13 gates. The tower above the arch houses exhibitions of medieval weapons and instruments, many of which were used in films shot in Prague (including Van Helsing, Chronicles of Narnia and Blade II), but the main attraction is the view from the top.

(Prašná brána; en.muzeumprahy.cz/prague-towers; Na příkopě; adult/child 90/65Kč; h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Oct & Mar, to 6pm Nov-Feb; mNáměstí Republiky)

1Kinský PalaceGALLERY

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The late-baroque Kinský Palace sports Prague’s finest rococo facade, completed in 1765 by the redoubtable Kilian Dientzenhofer. Today, the palace is home to a branch of the National Gallery, housing its collection of ancient and oriental art, ranging from ancient Egyptian tomb treasures and Greek Apulian pottery (4th century BC) to Chinese and Japanese decorative art and calligraphy.

(Palác Kinských; %224 810 758; www.ngprague.cz; Staroměstské náměstí 12; adult/child 150/80Kč; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; p; mStaroměstská)

1Bethlehem ChapelCHURCH

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The Bethlehem Chapel is a national cultural monument, being the birthplace of the Hussite cause. Jan Hus preached here from 1402 to 1412, marking the emergence of the Reform movement from the sanctuary of the Karolinum (where he was rector). Every year on the night of 5 July, the eve of Hus’ burning at the stake in 1415, a memorial is held here with speeches and bell-ringing.

(Betlémská kaple; %224 248 595; Betlémské náměstí 3; adult/child 60/30Kč; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar; j6, 9, 18, 21, 22)

1KlementinumHISTORIC BUILDING

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The Klementinum is a vast complex of beautiful baroque and rococo halls, now mostly occupied by the Czech National Library. Most of the buildings are closed to the public, but you can walk freely through the courtyards, or take a 50-minute guided tour of the baroque Library Hall, the Astronomical Tower and the Chapel of Mirrors.

(%222 220 879; www.klementinum.cz; entrances on Křížovnická, Karlova & Mariánské náměstí; guided tour adult/child 220/140Kč; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov, Dec & Mar; mStaroměstská)

1Church of St JamesCHURCH

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The great Gothic mass of the Church of St James began in the 14th century as a Minorite monastery church, and was given a beautiful baroque facelift in the early 18th century. But in the midst of the gilt and stucco is a grisly memento: on the inside of the western wall (look up to the right as you enter) hangs a shrivelled human arm.

(Kostel sv Jakuba; Malá Štupartská 6; h9.30am-noon & 2-4pm Tue-Sat, 2-4pm Sun; mNáměstí Republiky)

1Viselec (David Černý Sculpture)ART

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Here's more inspired madness from artist David Černý. Look up as you walk along Husova street; you'll see a bearded, bespectacled chap – looking not unlike Sigmund Freud – casually dangling by one hand from a pole way above the street.

(Hanging Out; Husova; j6, 9, 18, 21, 22)

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Top Tip

Top Views Of Old Town Square

The food might not be brilliant atop U Prince ( GOOGLE MAP ; %737 261 842; www.hoteluprince.com; Staroměstské náměstí 29; mains 200-450Kč; h11am-11pm; mMůstek), but the bird’s-eye view of Old Town Sq is unforgettable. Find its rooftop terrace by taking the lift at the back of the entrance hall to the top and climbing the stairs from there.

Eating

5KalinaFRENCH €€€

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Setting a trend for taking the best of fresh Czech produce and giving it the French gourmet treatment, this smart but unfailingly friendly little restaurant offers dishes such as duck pâté with rowan berries, smoked eel with beetroot and hazelnut, and roast wild boar with red wine and juniper. The set two-course lunch menu costs 330Kč.

(%222 317 715; www.kalinarestaurant.cz; Dlouhá 12; mains 330-720Kč; hnoon-3pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Sat; W; j5, 8, 24)

5Ambiente Pizza NuovaITALIAN €€

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This cool 1st-floor space, filled with big tables and banquettes with picture windows overlooking náměstí Republiky, showcases a good idea from the Ambiente team: for a fixed price (298Kč per person before 6pm, 365Kč after) you get an all-you-can-eat pasta and pizza deal. (Without the deal, the salad and antipasti buffet and pizza-pasta combined costs 475/555Kč.) Wine by the glass is 75Kč to 120Kč.

(%221 803 308; pizzanuova.ambi.cz; Revoluční 1; mains 165-500Kč; h11.30am-11.30pm; Wc; mNáměstí Republiky)

5V zátišíINTERNATIONAL, MODERN CZECH €€€

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‘Still Life’ is one of Prague’s top restaurants, famed for the quality of its cuisine. The decor is bold and modern, with quirky glassware, boldly patterned wallpapers and cappuccino-coloured crushed-velvet chairs. The menu ranges from high-end Indian cuisine to gourmet versions of traditional Czech dishes – the South Bohemian duck with cabbage and herb dumplings is superb.

(%222 221 155; www.vzatisi.cz; Liliová 1; 2-/3-course meal 990/1090Kč; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-11pm; W; j17, 18)

5BellevueINTERNATIONAL €€€

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Book a table on the terrace and come to enjoy the fabulous views of the river and castle while tucking into gourmet cuisine. Bellevue offers a Eurasian choice of dishes, from roasted veal loin in black-truffle crust to New Zealand lamb chops marinated in lemon thyme. Best value are two- and three-course set menus.

(%224 221 443; www.bellevuerestaurant.cz; Smetanovo nábr 18; set menu two-course/three-course 1190/1490Kč; h11am-11pm; v; j17, 18 to Karlovy lázně)

5George Prime SteakSTEAK €€€

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The name of the game here is 100% Black Angus USDA Prime Beef, imported from the American Midwest. Order a charcoal-broiled T-bone steak in the elegant surroundings of the main restaurant, or opt for a house burger in the less formal bar. The presence on the menu of the 1000Kč 'Oligarch Burger' (with foie gras and gold leaf) gives a clue as to the target market.

(%226 202 599; georgeprimesteak.com; Platnéřská 19; mains 350-1000Kč; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; W; mStaroměstská)

Outdoor dining, náměstí Republiky

JOHN FREEMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

5Indian JewelINDIAN €€

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A long, vaulted room in a medieval building makes an elegant setting for one of Prague's best Indian restaurants, with marble floors, chunky wooden chairs, copper tableware and restrained oriental decor; tables spill into the courtyard in summer. The food impresses, too, with light and flaky parathas, richly spiced sauces, and plenty of fire in the hotter curries.

(%222 310 156; www.indianjewel.cz; Týn 6; mains 300-400Kč; h11am-11pm; W; mStaroměstská)

Understand

The Astronomical Clock's Spectacle

Every hour on the hour, crowds gather beneath the Old Town Hall Tower to watch the Astronomical Clock in action. It’s an amusing – if slightly underwhelming performance – that takes just under a minute to finish. Most people simply stand and gawk, but it’s worth understanding a bit of the clock’s historic (and highly photogenic) symbolism.

The four figures beside the clock represent the deepest civic anxieties of 15th-century Praguers: Vanity (with a mirror), Greed (with his telltale money bag), Death (the skeleton) and Pagan Invasion (represented by a Turk). The four figures below these are the Chronicler, Angel, Astronomer and Philosopher.

On the hour, Death rings a bell and inverts his hourglass, and the Twelve Apostles parade past the windows above the clock, nodding to the crowd. On the left side are Paul (with a sword and a book), Thomas (lance), Jude (book), Simon (saw), Bartholomew (book) and Barnabas (parchment); on the right side are Peter (with a key), Matthew (axe), John (snake), Andrew (cross), Philip (cross) and James (mallet). At the end, a cock crows and the hour is rung.

Drinking

6U Tří růžíBREWERY

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In the 19th century there were more than 20 breweries in Prague's Old Town, but by 1989 there was only one left (U Medvidku). The Three Roses brewpub, on the site of one of those early breweries, helps revive the tradition, offering six beers on tap, including a tasty světlý ležák (pale lager), good food and convivial surroundings.

(%601 588 281; www.u3r.cz; Husova 10; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; j17, 18)

6Kavárna Obecní důmCAFE

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The spectacular café in Prague’s opulent Municipal House (Obecní dům) offers the opportunity to sip your cappuccino amid an orgy of art nouveau splendour. Also worth a look is the neat little American Bar in the basement of the building, all polished wood, stained glass and gleaming copper.

(%222 002 763; www.kavarnaod.cz; náměstí Republiky 5; h7.30am-11pm; W; mNáměstí Republiky)

6Krásný ztrátyCAFE

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This cool cafe – the name translates to something like ‘beautiful destruction’ – doubles as an art gallery and occasional music venue, and is hugely popular with students from nearby Charles University. There are Czech newspapers and books to leaf through, chilled tunes on the sound system, and a menu of gourmet teas and coffees to choose from.

(%775 755 143; www.krasnyztraty.cz; Náprstkova 10; h9am-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat & Sun; W; j17, 18)

6Hemingway BarCOCKTAIL BAR

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The Hemingway is a snug and sophisticated hideaway with dark leather benches, a library-like back room, flickering candlelight, and polite and professional bartenders. There's a huge range of quality spirits (especially rum), first-class cocktails, champagne and cigars.

(%773 974 764; www.hemingwaybar.eu; Karolíny Světlé 26; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri, 7pm-2am Sat, 7pm-1am Sun; W; j17, 21)

6Čili BarCOCKTAIL BAR

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This tiny cocktail bar could not be further removed in atmosphere from your typical Old Town drinking place. Cramped and smoky – there are Cuban cigars for sale – with battered leather armchairs competing for space with a handful of tables, it’s friendly, relaxed and lively. Try the speciality of the house – rum mixed with finely chopped red chillis.

(%724 379 117; www.cilibar.cz; Kožná 8; h5pm-2am; W; mMůstek)

6Grand Cafe OrientCAFE

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Prague’s only cubist cafe, the Orient was designed by Josef Gočár in 1912 and flaunts its cubist styling down to the smallest detail, including the lampshades and coat hooks. It was restored and reopened in 2005, having been closed since 1920. Decent coffee and inexpensive cocktails, but occasionally surly service.

(%224 224 240; www.grandcafeorient.cz; Ovocný trh 19; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; mNáměstí Republiky)

6U Zlatého TygraPUB

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The ‘Golden Tiger’ is one of the few Old Town drinking holes that has hung on to its soul – and its reasonable prices (40Kč per 0.5L of Pilsner Urquell), considering its location. It was novelist Bohumil Hrabal’s favourite place – there are photos of him on the walls – and where Václav Havel took Bill Clinton in 1994 to show him a real Czech pub.

(%222 221 111; www.uzlatehotygra.cz; Husova 17; h3-11pm; mStaroměstská)

l

Local Life

Going Meatless in Staré Město

Prague’s oldest quarter is home to several good vegetarian and vegan spots. Our favourites:

Maitrea ( GOOGLE MAP ; %221 711 631; www.restaurace-maitrea.cz; Týnská ulička 6; mains 145-165Kč, weekday lunch 115Kč; h11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat & Sun; v; mStaroměstská) Beautifully designed space with inventive vegetarian dishes.

Lehká Hlava ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 220 665; www.lehkahlava.cz; Boršov 2; mains 150-185Kč; h11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat & Sun; vc; j17, 18) Down a narrow cul-de-sac, this simple, student-friendly spot exists in a little world of its own.

Country Life ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 213 366; www.countrylife.cz; Melantrichova 15; mains 90-180Kč; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-3.30pm Fri, noon-6pm Sun; Wv; mMůstek) All-vegan cafeteria offering inexpensive salads, vegetarian goulash, sunflower-seed burgers and soy drinks.

Entertainment

3Smetana HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

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The Smetana Hall, centrepiece of the stunning Municipal House (Obecní dům), is the city’s largest concert hall, with seating for 1200. This is the home venue of the Prague Symphony Orchestra (Symfonický orchestr hlavního města Prahy), and it also stages performances of folk dance and music.

(Smetanova síň; %222 002 101; www.obecnidum.cz; náměstí Republiky 5; tickets 300-600Kč; hbox office 10am-6pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

3Estates TheatreOPERA, BALLET

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The Estates is the oldest theatre in Prague, famed as the place where Mozart conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni on 29 October 1787. Mozartissimo – a medley of highlights from several of Mozart’s operas, including Don Giovanni – is performed here from March to May (see www.bmart.cz); the rest of the year sees various opera, ballet and drama productions.

(Stavovské divadlo; %224 902 322; www.narodni-divadlo.cz; Ovocný trh 1; tickets 50-1290Kč; hbox office 10am-6pm; mMůstek)

Estates Theatre

JOHN FREEMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

3AghaRTA Jazz CentrumJAZZ

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AghaRTA has been staging top-notch modern jazz, blues, funk and fusion since 1991, but moved into this central Old Town venue only in 2004. A typical jazz cellar with red-brick vaults, the centre also has a music shop (open 7pm to midnight) that sells CDs, T-shirts and coffee mugs. As well as hosting local musicians, AghaRTA occasionally stages gigs by leading international artists.

(%222 211 275; www.agharta.cz; Železná 16; cover 250Kč; h7pm-1am, music 9pm-midnight; mMůstek)

3Jazz Club U Staré PaníJAZZ

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Located in the basement of the Hotel U Staré Paní, this long-established but recently revamped jazz club caters to all levels of musical appreciation. There’s a varied program of modern jazz, soul, blues and Latin rhythms, and a dinner menu if you want to make a full evening of it.

(%605 285 211; www.jazzstarapani.cz; Michalská 9; cover 100-250Kč; h7pm-1am Wed-Sun, music from 9pm; mMůstek)

3Blues SklepJAZZ

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One of the city’s newer jazz clubs, the Blues Sklep (sklep means ‘cellar’) is a typical Old Town basement with dark, Gothic-vaulted rooms that provide an atmospheric setting for regular nightly jazz sessions. Bands play anything from trad New Orleans jazz to bebop, blues, funk and soul.

(%221 466 138; www.bluessklep.cz; Liliová 10; cover 100-150Kč; hbar 7pm-2.30am, music 9pm-midnight; j17, 18)

Understand

Literary Prague

Prague has a well-deserved reputation as a literary heavyweight. The names Franz Kafka and Milan Kundera will be familiar to any serious reader, but Prague’s writing roots run deeper – it’s no accident the country’s first postcommunist president, Václav Havel, was a playwright. In addition to its Czech writers, the city was also once a hotbed of German literature.

Czech Literary Lights

Besides the clever Kundera (b 1929), a staple on undergrad reading lists, Prague was home to humourist Bohumil Hrabal (1914–97), whose many books are widely translated into English. The film based on his novel Closely Watched Trains won the Oscar for Best Foreign Film in 1968. Another near-household name is Jaroslav Hašek (1883–1923), whose book The Good Soldier Švejk is a stroke of comic genius that recalls something of Catch-22. Czech poet Jaroslav Seifert won the Nobel Prize for poetry in 1984.

The German Connection

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Prague was a centre of German literature. Kafka (1883–1924), a German-speaking Jewish writer, remains the gold standard: his books The Trial and The Castle, among many others, are modern classics. But Prague was also home to Kafka’s friend and publisher Max Brod (1883–1924), as well as noted writers Egon Erwin Kisch (1885–1948) and Franz Werfel (1890–1945). One of the most beloved poets in the German language, Rainer Maria Rilke (1875–1926), was born and studied in Prague.

New Voices

There’s no shortage of new Czech literary talent: Jáchym Topol (b 1962), Petra Hůlová (b 1979), Michal Viewegh (b 1962), Michal Ajvaz (b 1949), Emil Hakl (b 1958) and Miloš Urban (b 1967) are taking their places among the country’s leading authors. They are pushing out old-guard figures such as Kundera, now seen as chroniclers of a very different, postcommunist age. Until recently, few books from these younger novelists had been translated into English. That’s changing slowly, however, as publishers appear more willing to take a chance on marketing them to English-speaking audiences.

Shopping

7Art Deco GalerieANTIQUES

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Specialising in early-20th-century items, this shop has a wide range of 1920s and '30s stuff, including clothes, handbags, jewellery, glassware and ceramics, along with knick-knacks such as the kind of cigarette case you might imagine Dorothy Parker pulling from her purse.

(%224 223 076; www.artdecogalerie-mili.com; Michalská 21; h2-7pm Mon-Fri; mMůstek)

7BotanicusCOSMETICS

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Prepare for olfactory overload in this always-busy outlet for natural health and beauty products. The scented soaps, herbal bath oils and shampoos, fruit cordials and handmade paper products are made using herbs and plants grown on an organic farm at Ostrá, east of Prague.

(%234 767 446; www.botanicus.cz; Týn 3, Staré Město; h10am-6.30pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

7ManufakturaARTS & CRAFTS

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There are several Manufaktura outlets across town, but this small branch near the Old Town Square seems to keep its inventory especially enticing. You'll find great Czech wooden toys, beautiful-looking (if extremely chewy) honey gingerbread made from elaborate medieval moulds, and seasonal gifts such as hand-painted Easter eggs.

(%257 533 678; www.manufaktura.cz; Melantrichova 17; h10am-8pm; mMůstek)

7ModernistaHOMEWARES

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Modernista specialises in reproduction 20th-century furniture, ceramics, glassware and jewellery, in classic styles ranging from art deco and cubist to functionalist and Bauhaus – including sensuously curved chairs that are a feature of the Icon Hotel, and an unusual chaise lounge by Adolf Loos. The shop is in the information centre at the Municipal House.

(%224 241 300; www.modernista.cz; Obecní dům, náměstí Republiky 5; h11am-6pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

Old Town Square and Church of Our Lady Before Týn

RACHEL LEWIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

7MaterialGLASSWARE

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Material puts a modern twist on the Czech crystal industry, with its oversized contemporary vases, bowls and Dale Chihuly–like ornaments, candleholders, chandeliers and glasses. The firm boasts its ‘drunken sailor’ glass is spillproof. Yet, despite well-spaced displays, it’s a store where you immediately fear breaking something – and when you check the prices you realise you should!

(%608 664 766; www.i-material.com; Týn 1; h10.30am-8pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

7PohádkaTOYS

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This store is sometimes beset by souvenir-hunting tour groups and it stocks plenty of matryoshky (Russian stacking dolls) – objects that actually have nothing to do with Prague. Surprisingly, then, it’s also a pretty good place to shop for genuine Czech toys, from marionettes and costumed dolls to finger puppets, rocking horses and toy cars.

(%224 239 469; www.czechtoys.cz; Celetná 32; h9am-8pm; mNáměstí Republiky)

Understand

The Trials of Tycho Brahe

It’s probably more than fair to describe Tycho Brahe, who’s buried in the Church of Our Lady Before Týn, as something of a character. This Danish father of modern astronomy catalogued thousands of stars, made stunningly accurate observations in an era before telescopes, and helped his assistant Johannes Kepler derive the laws of planetary motion.

He came to Prague in 1599 as Emperor Rudolf II’s official mathematician. But Brahe also dabbled in astrology and alchemy. He lost part of his nose in a duel and wore a metal replacement. His pet moose apparently drank too much beer, fell down the stairs and died.

In Prague, Brahe himself died in 1601 of a bladder infection, reputedly because he was too polite to go to the toilet during a long banquet. Only recently have historians decided he was probably poisoned instead. We're not sure which version is more comforting.

Wenceslas Square & Around

Busy Wenceslas Sq, dating from 1348 and once a bustling horse market, was the site of several seminal events in Czech history. Today, though it’s crowded with souvenir shops, clubs, coffee chains and plenty of tourists, it’s possible to glimpse the square’s previous grandeur simply by looking up at the glorious art nouveau architecture.

GAVIN HELLIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start the day at the bottom of Wenceslas Square, the most important part of Nové Město. The square is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, but the art nouveau facade of the Grand Hotel Evropa (No 25) stands out. Walk up the square at your leisure, popping in at the Hotel Jalta to see an underground nuclear bunker. Check out the Wenceslas Statue, the square’s focal point. The National Museum is closed for renovation, but you can still take in the view, and also pay your respects at the Jan Palach Memorial and gaze over at the former headquarters of Radio Free Europe.

R For lunch, head north of the square for standard pub fare at U Ferdinanda, which then puts you within easy walking distance for the Mucha Museum to admire the painter’s dreamlike beauties emblazoned on early-20th-century Parisian posters.

N For dinner, try some amazing tapas at Room or go totally casual for ribs and a Czech regional beer at Jáma. If you want something dressier, try Kogo and then a night of ballet or opera at the Prague State Opera.

1  Top Sights

Wenceslas Sq

x  Best of Prague

Food

Room

Kogo

Museums

Mucha Museum

Museum of Communism

Architecture

National Museum (Národní muzeum; GOOGLE MAP ; %224 497 111; www.nm.cz; Václavské náměstí 68; mMuzeum)

Grand Hotel Evropa

7  Shopping

Moser

Baťa

Culture

State Opera House

Kino Světozor

Nightlife

Lucerna Music Bar

Getting There

m Metro Lines A and B cross at Můstek at the bottom of the square. Lines A and C meet at Muzeum at the top.

1

Top Sights

Wenceslas Square

This massive central square was founded by Charles IV in 1348. For hundreds of years it was called the ‘Horse Market’ and featured a small lake, horse-drawn trams and the first Czech theatre. In medieval times it was also the site of several public executions. On 28 October 1918, the independent republic of Czechoslovakia was announced here; in 1945 the end of WWII was declared and celebrated. Later, during the Velvet Revolution, the square hosted huge, historic demonstrations.

St Wenceslas Statue

EDDIE GERALD/ALAMY ©

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Václavské náměstí; mMůstek, Muzeum

y Top Tips

A During holidays and festivals, try the square’s food and drink stands for local specialties like spiced wine and grilled sausage.

A Keep an eye on your belongings, especially at night – this area is notorious for pickpockets and touts.

A Many restaurants on the square are tourist traps; better-value options are nearby.

5 Take a Break

To escape the throngs, dive into the Lucerna shopping passage on Wenceslas Sq's southern side (enter from either Vodičkova or Štěpánská). Two cafes great for a quick coffee are the elegant, 1920s-style Kavárna Lucerna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 215 495; www.restaurace-monarchie.cz; Lucerna Pasáž, Štěpánská 61; h10am-midnight; W; mMůstek, j3, 9, 14, 24), on the upper floor, and the student favourite, Kávovarna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %296 236 233; Pasáž Lucerna, Štěpánská 61; h8am-midnight; mMůstek), on the ground floor.

Don’t Miss

Jan Palach Memorial

In January 1969 university student Jan Palach set fire to himself in front of the National Museum to protest against the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia the preceding August. Palach later died from his wounds and became a national hero. The memorial ( GOOGLE MAP ; Václavské náměstí 68; h24h) sits at the exact spot where Palach fell, marked by a cross in the pavement just below the steps to the museum’s entrance.

Former Radio Free Europe Building

During the Cold War, many Czechs and Slovaks turned to US-financed Radio Free Europe for news from the West. After 1989, the radio moved its headquarters from Munich here to the former Czechoslovak Federal Parliament building (at the top of the square, just to the left of the National Museum). In 2008, RFE moved to a new building in the Prague suburbs, and the old headquarters ( GOOGLE MAP ) is now used as a National Museum annex.

St Wenceslas Statue

The focal point of Wenceslas Sq is the equestrian statue of St Wenceslas (sv Václav; GOOGLE MAP ; Václavské náměstí; mMuzeum) at its southern end. Sculptor Josef Myslbek has surrounded the 10th-century Duke of Bohemia (and 'Good King Wenceslas' of Christmas-carol fame) with four other patron saints of Bohemia – Prokop, Adalbert, Agnes and Ludmila.

Grand Hotel Evropa

Grand indeed – this ornate art nouveau hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ) and cafe at Václavské náměstí 25 is easily the most colourful building on a colourful square. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovation at the time of research and it wasn't clear when it would reopen.

1 Top Sights

Wenceslas Square  C3

1 Sights

1Hotel Jalta Nuclear Bunker  C3

2Mucha Museum  C2

3Museum of Communism  B1

4Church of Our Lady of the Snows  B2

5Cubist Lamp Post  B2

5 Eating

6Room  B4

7Kogo  C1

8U Ferdinanda  D3

6 Drinking

9Jáma  B4

10Hoffa  D1

3 Entertainment

11Prague State Opera  D4

12Lucerna Music Bar  B3

13Kino Světozor  B3

7 Shopping

14Baťa  B2

15Moser  B1

16Palác Knih Neo Luxor  C3

Sights

1Hotel Jalta Nuclear BunkerHISTORIC BUILDING

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Hidden beneath the 1950s Hotel Jalta on Wenceslas Square lies a communist-era nuclear shelter that was opened to the public in 2013. The tour (in Czech, with an English text), led by a guide in period security-police uniform, takes in a series of secret chambers; the highlight is the comms room, where wiretaps in the bedrooms of important guests were monitored.

(%222 822 111; www.hoteljalta.com; Václavské náměstí 45; per person 75Kč; h5-8pm Mon & Wed even weeks, Tue & Thu odd weeks; mMuzeum)

1Mucha MuseumGALLERY

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This fascinating (and busy) museum features the sensuous art nouveau posters, paintings and decorative panels of Alfons Mucha (1860–1939), as well as many sketches, photographs and other memorabilia. The exhibits include countless artworks showing Mucha’s trademark Slavic maidens with flowing hair and piercing blue eyes, bearing symbolic garlands and linden boughs.

(Muchovo muzuem; %221 451 333; www.mucha.cz; Panská 7; adult/child 240/140Kč; h10am-6pm; mMůstek)

1Museum of CommunismMUSEUM

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It’s difficult to think of a more ironic site for a museum of communism – in an 18th-century aristocrat’s palace, between a casino on one side and a McDonald’s on the other. Put together by an American expat and his Czech partner, the museum tells the story of Czechoslovakia’s years behind the Iron Curtain in photos, words and a fascinating and varied collection of…well, stuff.

(Muzeum Komunismu; %224 212 966; www.muzeumkomunismu.cz; Na Příkopě 10; adult/concession/child under 10 190/150Kč/free; h9am-9pm; mMůstek)

1Church of Our Lady of the SnowsCHURCH

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This Gothic church at the northern end of Wenceslas Square was begun in the 14th century by Charles IV, but only the chancel was ever completed, which accounts for its proportions – seemingly taller than it is long. Charles had intended it to be the grandest church in Prague; the nave is higher than that of St Vitus Cathedral, and the altar is the city’s tallest.

(Kostel Panny Marie Sněžné; www.pms.ofm.cz; Jungmannovo náměstí 18; mMůstek)

Alfons Mucha posters on display in Prague

ISIFA/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Cubist Lamp PostART

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Angular but slightly chunky, made from striated concrete – the world's only cubist lamp post would be worth going out of the way to see. So it's a happy bonus that this novelty is just around the corner from Wenceslas Sq.

(Jungmannovo náměstí; mMůstek)

Understand

Overhaul of the National Museum

The National Museum, at the top end of the square, dates from the last half of the 19th century, when bombastic architecture was all the rage. The style, neo-Renaissance, was meant as a conscious aping of the Renaissance palaces that were built around Prague in the 16th century. The grand size served two purposes: the museum's vast holdings could finally fit under one roof, and the building was meant to symbolise the power of the growing Czech (as opposed to Austrian or German) elite.

As this book was being researched, the museum was undergoing long-term renovation – until 2015 at the earliest. The repairs are meant to spruce up the facade (which was still sporting bullet holes from 1968, when it was fired on by invading Russian troops who mistook it for Parliament) and to modernise the fusty exhibits of fossils, rocks and bones. During the renovation, the museum is organising temporary exhibits next door at the    National Museum's new building ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 497 111; www.nm.cz; Vinohradská 1; adult/child 110/75Kč; h10am-6pm; mMuzeum).

Understand

Oppression & Revolution

From Coup to Invasion

February 1948 marked the start of a half-century’s worth of political turmoil in Prague. It was at this time that the leaders of the Czechoslovak Communist Party (KSČ), not content with a controlling position in the postwar coalition after the 1946 elections, staged a coup d’état backed by the Soviet Union. The next two decades saw widespread political persecution.

In the late 1960s, Communist Party leader Alexander Dubček loosened the reins slightly under the banner ‘Socialism With a Human Face’. There was a resurgence in literature, theatre and film, led by the likes of Milan Kundera, Bohumil Hrabal, Václav Havel and Miloš Forman. The Soviet regime crushed this ‘Prague Spring’ on 20 and 21 August 1968, using Warsaw Pact tanks, and Dubček was replaced by hardliner Gustáv Husák.

The Fall of Communism

The Husák government expelled many reform communists from positions of authority and introduced what Czechs called ‘normalisation’ – in other words, Soviet-style repression. Active dissent was limited to a few hundred people, mostly intellectuals and artists, including playwright Václav Havel.

In November 1989, as communist regimes tumbled across Eastern Europe, the Czechoslovak government came under increasing pressure to relinquish power. On 17 November, riot police cracked down on a peaceful student protest march, which would prove to be the catalyst to revolution. Within days, crowds on Wenceslas Square swelled to some 500,000 people.

A group led by Havel procured the government’s resignation on 3 December, and 26 days later, he was the new leader. The ‘Velvet Revolution’ – named for its peaceful nature (as well as the inspiration its leaders took from the rock band the Velvet Underground) – had triumphed.

A Velvet Divorce

The transition to democracy was anything but smooth, though it eventually succeeded. Ironically, one casualty of the revolution was the splitting of the country into separate Czech and Slovak states in 1993. The amicable breakup later became known as the ‘Velvet Divorce’.

Eating

5RoomSPANISH $$

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Cool, angular and precise in shades of grey, black and avocado green, Room provides the perfect setting for some of Prague's most carefully crafted flavours. With an accomplished kitchen team working from a menu created by actor Tommy Lee Jones' personal chef, it's no surprise that the food – gambas pil pil, clams and chorizo in cider, oxtail with parsnip purée – is top-notch.

(%221 634 103; www.tapasroom.cz; Icon Hotel, V Jámě 6; tapas 50-320Kc, mains 230-400Kč; h7am-1am; W; j3, 9, 14, 24)

5KogoITALIAN $$

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Chic and businesslike, but also relaxed and family friendly (highchairs provided), Kogo is a stylish restaurant serving top-notch pizza, pasta, and Italian meat and seafood dishes – the rich, tomatoey zuppa di pesce (fish soup) is delicious, as is the risotto alla pescatora (with squid, mussels, shrimp and octopus). On summer evenings, candlelit tables filled with conversation spill over into the leafy courtyard.

(%221 451 259; www.kogo.cz; Slovanský dům, Na Příkopě 22; mains 250-680Kč; h11am-11pm; Wc; mNáměstí Republiky)

5U FerdinandaCZECH $

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Welcome to a thoroughly modern spin on a classic Czech pub, with beer courtesy of the Ferdinand brewery from nearby Benešov. Quirky gardening implements in corrugated iron decorate the raucous interior, and a younger local clientele crowds in for well-priced Czech food.

(%222 244 302; www.ferdinanda.cz; cnr ulice Opletalova & Politických Vězňů; mains 100-180Kč; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat; mMuzeum)

Understand

Much Ado About Mucha

Alfons Mucha (1860–1939) is the Czech answer to Austria’s Gustav Klimt, England’s William Morris or Scotland’s Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

One of the fathers – if not the father – of art nouveau as represented in the visual arts, he first found fame in Paris after producing a stunning poster for actress Sarah Bernhardt’s 1895 play Gismonda. A contract with Bernhardt, reams of advertising work and trips to America brought him international renown.

Mucha returned home in 1909, and went on to design the banknotes for the first Czechoslovak Republic after 1918. Around this time, he also produced his opus, a collection of 20 gigantic canvases telling the history of the Slavic peoples, which he titled the Slav Epic (Slovanská epopej).

Mucha created some of the stunning interiors of Prague’s Municipal House and designed a beautiful stained-glass window for St Vitus Cathedral. His signature art nouveau work is on display at the Mucha Museum.

Long-held plans to exhibit the    Slav Epic in Prague came to fruition in 2013, when the canvases were put on display at the National Gallery's Veletržní palác; they're slated to stay through at least 2015.

Drinking

6JámaBAR

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Jáma (‘the Hollow’) is a popular American-expat bar plastered with old music-gig posters ranging from Led Zep and REM to Kiss and Shania Twain. There’s a little beer garden out the back shaded by lime and walnut trees, smiling staff serving up a rotating selection of regional beers and microbrews, and a menu that includes good burgers, steaks, ribs and chicken wings.

(%222 967 081; www.jamapub.cz; V Jámě 7; h11am-1am; W; mMuzeum)

6HoffaCOCKTAIL BAR

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One of Prague's first entirely smoke-free bars, Hoffa matches clean air with clean design: a long (12m!) bar fronting a long room with sleek, functional decor, and a wall of windows looking out onto Senovážné náměstí's fountain of dancing sprites. Friendly staff, accomplished cocktails and good snacks – there's even homemade lemonade and iced tea at lunchtime.

(%601 359 659; www.hoffa.cz; Senovážné náměstí 22; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat & Sun; W; j5, 9, 26)

Understand

Prague’s Grand Cafes

Prague is known for pubs, Vienna for its coffeehouses. Yet the Czech capital also boasts grand cafes that rival their Austrian cousins in looks (even if the actual coffee can’t compete). At least the atmosphere is equivalent, and since the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire onwards, Prague’s ornate, high-ceilinged coffeehouses have acted as public meeting spaces, hotbeds of political subversion and literary salons.

At various times Franz Kafka, playwright Karel Čapek (coiner of the term 'robot') and Albert Einstein all drank at    Cafe Louvre, while across the road at Kavárna Slavia, patrons included Milan Kundera, Václav Havel and other writers, playwrights and filmmakers.

Entertainment

3Prague State OperaOPERA, BALLET

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The impressive neo-rococo home of the Prague State Opera provides a glorious setting for performances of opera and ballet. An annual Verdi festival takes place here in August and September, and less conventional shows, such as Leoncavallo’s rarely staged version of La Bohème, are also performed here.

(Státní opera Praha; %224 901 448; www.narodni-divadlo.cz; Wilsonova 4; tickets 180-1190Kč; hbox office 10am-6pm; mMuzeum)

3Lucerna Music BarLIVE MUSIC

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Nostalgia reigns supreme at this atmospheric old theatre, now looking a little dog-eared, which hosts a hugely popular 1980s and '90s video party every Friday and Saturday night, with crowds of young locals bopping along to Duran Duran and Gary Numan. There's an impressively eclectic program of live bands on midweek nights, with everything from Slovakian ska and Belgian pop-rock to Dutch electro-funk and American metal.

(%224 217 108; www.musicbar.cz; Palác Lucerna, Vodičkova 36; cover 100-500Kč; h8pm-4am; mMůstek)

3Kino SvětozorCINEMA

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The Světozor is under the same management as Žižkov's famous Kino Aero ( GOOGLE MAP ; %271 771 349; www.kinoaero.cz; Biskupcova 31, Žižkov; tickets 60-110Kč; W; j9, 10, 11, 16), but is more central, and has the same emphasis on classic cinema, documentary and art-house films screened in their original language – everything from Battleship Potemkin and Casablanca to Annie Hall and The Motorcycle Diaries – plus critically acclaimed box-office hits.

(%224 946 824; www.kinosvetozor.cz; Vodičkova 41; tickets 60-120Kč; W; mMůstek)

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Local Life

Shopping 'At the Moat'

Crossing the lower end of Wenceslas Square, Na Příkopě is one of the city's prettiest and most popular promenades. The name translates as 'At the Moat' – the street traces a moat that once ran between Staré Město and Nové Město to protect the Old Town from attack.

In the 19th century, Na Příkopě was the fashionable haunt of Austrian cafe society. Today, it’s typical high-street shopping turf, lined with international retail chains like H&M, Mango and Zara, and dotted with colourful shopping malls, including dům U černé růže (House of the Black Rose) at No 12, Myslbek pasáž (www.myslbek.com) at No 21, Slovanksý dům at No 22, and Palladium (www.palladiumpraha.cz) at náměstí Republiky 1.

Shopping

7BaťaSHOES

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Established by Tomáš Baťa in 1894, the Baťa footwear empire is still in family hands and is one of the Czech Republic’s most successful companies. The flagship store on Wenceslas Square, built in the 1920s, is considered a masterpiece of modern architecture, and houses six floors of shoes (including international brands as well as Baťa’s own), handbags, luggage and leather goods.

(%221 088 478; www.bata.cz; Václavské náměstí 6; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; mMůstek)

7MoserGLASS

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One of the most exclusive and respected of Bohemian glassmakers, Moser was founded in Karlovy Vary in 1857 and is famous for its rich and flamboyant designs. The shop on Na Příkopě is worth a browse as much for the decor as for the goods – it’s in a magnificently decorated, originally Gothic building called the House of the Black Rose (dům U černé růže).

(%224 211 293; www.moser-glass.com; Na Příkopě 12; h10am-8pm; mMůstek)

7Palác Knih Neo LuxorBOOKS

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Palác Knih Neo Luxor is Prague’s biggest bookshop – head for the basement to find a wide selection of fiction and nonfiction in English, German, French and Russian, including Czech authors in translation. You’ll also find internet access, a cafe and a good selection of international newspapers and magazines.

(%296 110 368; www.neoluxor.cz; Václavské náměstí 41; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; mMuzeum)

Nové Město

Nové Město is a long, arching neighbourhood that borders Staré Město on its eastern and southern edges. The name translates as ‘New Town', which is something of a misnomer since the area was established nearly 700 years ago by Emperor Charles IV. But unlike Staré Město or Malá Strana, the historic feeling is missing here, owing mainly to massive rebuilding in the 19th century.

LATITUDESTOCK-TTL/GETTY IMAGES © / ARCHITECTS: VLADO MILUNIC & FRANK GEHRY

The Sights in a Day

M Start your day with a cup of coffee at Kavárna Slavia – try to snag a river-facing table with a view to Prague Castle. Meander down by the river, heading south to Slav Island, where you can rent a paddle boat and enjoy a terrific, water-level view of Charles Bridge. From here, wander further south to take in the Dancing Building, one of the few modern buildings in Prague to make a splash in architectural circles. From there, head east to the Church of Sts Cyril & Methodius, the site of a dramatic stand-off between the Nazis and a band of brave Czechoslovak paratroopers during World War II, (see Click here).

R Follow Na Zderace north to a quieter part of town, the area south of Národní třída. Grab a spicy Thai lunch at Lemon Leaf or soup and sandwich combo at the Globe Bookstore & Cafe.

N In the evening get tickets to see a ballet or opera at the beautiful National Theatre or enjoy a jazz set at Reduta. Kids will enjoy a night of 'black theatre' at Laterna Magika. Cafe Louvre, though technically a coffee house, is a terrific choice for a stylish Czech dinner.

x  Best of Nové Město

Food

Cafe Louvre

Lemon Leaf

History

National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror

Architecture

Dancing Building

Culture

National Theatre

Laterna Magika

Drinking

Cafe Louvre

Kavárna Slavia

Pivovarský Dům

Music

Reduta Jazz Club

Jazz Republic

Getting There

m Metro Line B to Můstek or Karlovo Náměstí; Line A to Můstek

j Tram Trams 6, 9, 17, 18, 22 to Národní divadlo

1 Sights

1Dancing Building  A4

2Slav Island  A2

5 Eating

3Globe Bookstore & Café  B3

4Lemon Leaf  B3

5Pho Viet  B1

6 Drinking

6Cafe Louvre  B1

7Kavárna Slavia  A1

8U Fleků  B3

9Pivovarský Dům  D4

3 Entertainment

10National Theatre  A2

11Reduta Jazz Club  B1

12Jazz Republic  C1

13Laterna Magika  A2

Rock Café  B1

7 Shopping

14Belda Jewellery  B1

Globe Bookstore & Café  B3

Sights

1Dancing BuildingARCHITECTURE

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The Dancing Building was built in 1996 by architects Vlado Milunić and Frank Gehry. The curved lines of the narrow-waisted glass tower clutched against its more upright and formal partner led to it being christened the ‘Fred & Ginger’ building, after legendary dancing duo Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. It’s surprising how well it fits in with its ageing neighbours.

(Tančící dům; www.tancici-dum.cz; Rašínovo nábřeží 80; j14, 17)

1Slav IslandISLAND

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This island is a sleepy, dog-eared sandbank with pleasant gardens, river views and several jetties where you can hire rowing boats. In the middle stands Žofín, a 19th-century cultural centre that has been restored and opened as a restaurant and social venue. In 1925 the island was named after the Slav conventions that had taken place here since 1848.

(Slovanský ostrov; Masarykovo nábřeží; j17, 21)

Understand

Heroic Paratroopers

In 1941, during World War II, the occupying Nazi government appointed SS general Reinhard Heydrich, Hitler’s heir apparent, as Reichsprotektor of Bohemia and Moravia. The move came in response to a series of crippling strikes and sabotage operations by the Czech resistance movement, and Heydrich immediately cracked down with a vengeance.

In an effort to support the resistance and boost Czech morale, Britain secretly trained a team of Czechoslovak paratroopers to assassinate Heydrich. The daring mission was code-named ‘Operation Anthropoid’ – and against all odds it succeeded. On 27 May 1942, two paratroopers, Jan Kubiš and Jozef Gabčík, attacked Heydrich as he rode in his official car through the city’s Libeň district; he later died from the wounds.

The assassins and five co-conspirators fled but were betrayed in their hiding place in the Church of Sts Cyril & Methodius; all seven died in the ensuing siege. This moving story is told at the National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror (Národní památník hrdinů Heydrichiády; GOOGLE MAP ; %224 916 100; www.pamatnik-heydrichiady.cz; Resslova 9; adult/concession 75/35Kč; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat Nov-Feb; mKarlovo Náměstí) located at the church.

The Nazis reacted with a frenzied wave of terror, which included the annihilation of two entire Czech villages, Ležáky and Lidice, and the shattering of the underground movement.

Eating

5Globe Bookstore & CaféCAFE €

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This appealing expat bookshop-cafe serves nachos, burgers, chicken wings and salads until 11pm nightly, and also offers an excellent brunch menu (from 9.30am to 4pm Saturday and Sunday) that includes an American classic (bacon, egg and hash browns), full English fry-up, blueberry pancakes and freshly squeezed juices. Lighter breakfasts are served from 9.30am to 11.30am weekdays.

(%224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz; Pštrossova 6; mains 160-200Kč; h9.30am-midnight, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; mKarlovo Náměstí)

5Lemon LeafASIAN €

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It’s a bit off the beaten tourist path, but with its bright, high-ceiling rooms decked out with crushed-silk lampshades and Thai-style art, the Lemon Leaf is certainly making an effort to pull in the visitors. It’s worth a visit for excellent, authentic Thai dishes, including a rich and fragrant green curry with a decent kick of chilli heat.

(%224 919 056; www.lemon.cz; Myslíkova 14; mains 179-209Kč; h11am-11pm; W; j14)

5Pho VietVIETNAMESE €

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Tucked away in the far corner of a shopping arcade, this unassuming little place serves up fresh nem tuoi (prawn rolls) and aromatic pho (beef and noodle soup with coriander) with searingly hot chillis. No prizes for decor – think workers' canteen – but the price:tastiness ratio can't be beat.

(%777 724 489; Národní třídá 25; mains 60-90Kč; h10am-11pm; mNárodní Třídá)

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Local Life

South of Národní Třída

The area south of Národní třída, behind the National Theatre, is lined with lesser-known ethnic eateries, student-populated cafes, and (lots of) bars. It’s lovely part of town to wander along as the sun fades. Come back after dark, since this is one of the better places to party.

Red Room ( GOOGLE MAP ; %602 429 989; www.redroom.cz; Myslíkova 28; h4pm-4am Mon-Thur, 5pm-5am Fri-Sun ; W; mKarlovo Náměstí, j14 to Myslíkova) Laid-back bar stuffed with friendly expats and offering occasional live music.

Kavárna Velryba ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 931 444; www.kavarnavelryba.cz; Opatovická 24; h11am-midnight Sat-Thu, to 2am Fri; W; j6, 9, 18, 22 to Národní třída) Arty cafe-bar with vegetarian-friendly snacks, a smoky back room and a basement art gallery.

Bokovka ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 544 014; www.bokovka.com; Pštrossova 8; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat; W; mKarlovo Náměstí) Extensive menu of top-notch Moravian wines and welcoming nonsmoking ambience.

Drinking

6Cafe LouvreCAFE

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Others are more famous, but the French-style Louvre is arguably Prague's most amenable grand cafe. The atmosphere is wonderfully 'olde worlde', but there's a proper nonsmoking section among its warren of rooms and it serves good coffee, as well as food. Pop in for breakfast, play a little billiards and check out the associated art gallery downstairs when leaving.

(%224 930 949; www.cafelouvre.cz; Národní třída 22, 1st fl; j6, 9, 18, 22)

6Kavárna SlaviaCAFE

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The Slavia is the most famous of Prague’s old cafes, a cherrywood-and-onyx shrine to art deco elegance, with polished limestone-topped tables and big windows overlooking the river. It has been a celebrated literary meeting place since the early 20th century – Rainer Maria Rilke and Franz Kafka hung out here, and it was frequented by Václav Havel and other dissidents in the 1970s and '80s.

(%224 220 957; www.cafeslavia.cz; Národní třída 1; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22)

6U FlekůBREWERY

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A festive warren of drinking and dining rooms, U Fleků is a Prague institution, though usually clogged with tour groups high on oompah music and the tavern’s home-brewed, 13-degree black beer (59Kč for 0.4L), known as Flek. Purists grumble but go along anyway because the beer is good, though tourist prices have nudged out many locals.

(%224 934 019; www.ufleku.cz; Křemencová 11; h10am-11pm; mKarlovo Náměstí)

6Pivovarský DůmBREWERY

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Locals gather here to sample the classic Czech lager (44Kč per 0.5L) that is produced on the premises, as well as wheat beer and a range of flavoured beers (including coffee, banana and cherry, 44Kč per 0.3L). The pub itself is a pleasant place to linger, decked out with polished copper vats and brewing implements, and smelling faintly of malt and hops.

(%296 216 666; www.pivovarskydum.com; cnr Ječná & Lipová; h11am-11.30pm; j4, 10, 16, 22)

Pivovarský Dům

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Entertainment

3National TheatreOPERA, BALLET

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The much-loved National Theatre provides a stage for traditional opera, drama and ballet by the likes of Smetana, Shakespeare and Tchaikovsky, alongside more modern works by composers and playwrights such as Philip Glass and John Osborne. The box offices are in the Nový síň building next door, in the Kolowrat Palace (opposite the Estates Theatre) and at the State Opera.

(Národní divadlo; %224 901 448; www.narodni-divadlo.cz; Národní třída 2; tickets 50-1100Kč; hbox offices 10am-6pm; j6, 9, 18, 22)

3Reduta Jazz ClubJAZZ

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The Reduta is Prague’s oldest jazz club, founded in 1958 during the communist era – it was here in 1994 that then US president Bill Clinton famously jammed on a new saxophone presented to him by Václav Havel. It has an intimate setting, with smartly dressed patrons squeezing into tiered seats and lounges to soak up the big band, swing and Dixieland atmosphere.

(%224 933 487; www.redutajazzclub.cz; Národní třída 20; cover 330Kč; h9pm-3am; W; mNárodní Třída)

3Jazz RepublicLIVE MUSIC

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Despite the name, this relaxed club stages all kinds of live music, including rock, blues, reggae and fusion as well as jazz. Bands are mostly local, and the music is not overpowering – you can easily hold a conversation – which means it won't please the purists (sssshh!). The entrance is at the foot of the stairs leading down to Můstek metro station.

(%224 282 235; www.jazzrepublic.cz; 28.října 1; tickets 100Kč; h5pm-late, music from 9pm)

3Laterna MagikaPERFORMING ARTS

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Laterna Magika has been wowing audiences since its first cutting-edge multimedia show caused a stir at the 1958 Brussels World Fair. Its imaginative blend of dance, music and projected images continues to pull in the crowds. Nová Scena, the futuristic building next to the National Theatre, has been home to Laterna Magika since it moved from its birthplace in the Adria Palace in the mid-1970s.

(%224 901 448; www.narodni-divadlo.cz; Nová Scéna, Národní třída 4; tickets 260-690Kč; hbox office 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; j6, 9, 18, 22)

3Rock CaféLIVE MUSIC

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Not to be confused with the Hard Rock Café, this multifunction club is the offspring of the influential Nový Horizont art movement of the 1990s. It sports a stage for DJs and live rock bands, a funkily decorated ‘rock cafe’, a cinema, a theatre, an art gallery and a CD shop.

Live bands are mostly local, ranging from nu-metal to folk rock to Doors and Sex Pistols tribute bands. Music from 7.30pm.

(%224 933 947; www.rockcafe.cz; Národní třída 20; cover free-300Kč; h10am-3am Mon-Fri, 5pm-3am Sat, 5pm-1am Sun; mNárodní Třída)

Shopping

7Belda JewelleryJEWELLERY

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Belda & Co is a long-established Czech firm dating from 1922. Nationalised in 1948, it was revived by the founder’s son and grandson, and continues to create gold and silver jewellery of a very high standard. Its range includes its own angular, contemporary designs, as well as reproductions based on art nouveau designs by Alfons Mucha.

(%224 931 052; www.belda.cz; Mikulandská 10; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri; mNárodní Třída)

7Globe Bookstore & CaféBOOKS

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A popular hang out for book-loving expats, the Globe is a cosy English-language bookshop with an excellent cafe-bar in which to peruse your purchases. There’s a good range of new fiction and nonfiction, a big selection of secondhand books, and newspapers and magazines in English, French, Spanish, Italian, German and Russian. Also has art exhibitions and film screenings.

(%224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz; Pštrossova 6; h9.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun; W; mKarlovo Náměstí)

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Local Life

Vyšehrad, Prague’s Other Castle

The complex of buildings that make up Vyšehrad Citadel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %261 225 304; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; information centre at V pevnosti 159/5b; admission to grounds free; hgrounds 24hr; mVyšehrad) has played an important role in Czech history for more than a thousand years. While not many of the ancient buildings have survived to the present (most structures date from the 18th century, when the complex was used as a fortress), the citadel is still viewed as Prague's spiritual home. For more information and an events calendar, see www.praha-vysehrad.cz.

Getting There

Vyšehrad is located high over the banks of the Vltava River, just south of Nové Město.

m Line C to Vyšehra.

j Lines 7, 18, 24 to Ostrčilovo náměstí.

1 Through the Old Gates

Heading west, about 10 minutes on foot from the Vyšehrad metro station, you’ll pass Tábor Gate and the remains of the original Gothic Špička Gate.

2 Prague's Oldest Building

The 11th-century Romanesque Rotunda of St Martin is considered Prague’s oldest surviving building. The door and frescos date from a renovation made about 1880. It's normally closed, but the interior can be viewed during mass (times posted at the door).

3 Into the Fortress

Through the Brick Gate & Casements (Cihelná brána; GOOGLE MAP ; %261 225 304; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; Vratislavova, Vyšehrad; adult/child 50/30Kč; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; mVyšehrad) are hidden vaults once used for imprisonment and storing weapons when Vyšehrad served as a fortress in the 18th century. The underground Gorlice Hall holds some of the Charles Bridge’s original statues.

4 Outdoor Entertainment

If you’re there in the warmer months, look out for musical performances and shows at Vyšehrad’s open-air theatre, the Summer Stage (Letní scéna; GOOGLE MAP ; %736 297 869; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; Vyšehrad Citadel , Vyšehrad; hApr-Oct ; mVyšehrad).

5 Dvořák’s Final Resting Place

The 600 graves (many with intricately designed headstones) in the lovely gardens of Vyšehrad Cemetery (Vyšehradský hřbitov; GOOGLE MAP ; %274 774 835; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; K Rotundě 10, Vyšehrad; h8am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hrs Oct-Apr; mVyšehrad) read like a who's who of Czech arts and letters, including musicians Antonín Dvořák and Bedřich Smetana and artist Alfons Mucha.

6 Last Church Standing

The neo-Gothic Church of Sts Peter & Paul (Kostel sv Petra a Pavla; GOOGLE MAP ; %261 225 304; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; K Rotundé 10, Vyšehrad; adult/child 30/10Kč; h9am-noon & 1-5pm Wed-Mon; mVyšehrad) was one of Vyšehrad's few structures to avoid destruction in 1420 during the Hussite religious wars. The current facade dates from the 19th century.

7 Dinner While You're Here

Stop for a meal at Rio’s Vyšehrad ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 922 156; www.riorestaurant.cz; Štulcova 2, Vyšehrad; mains 250-600Kč; h10am-midnight; W; mVyšehrad), a classy Mediterranean restaurant featuring excellent fish dishes. Dine on the terrace in nice weather.

8 Underground History

The atmospheric Gothic Cellar (Gotický sklep; GOOGLE MAP ; %261 225 304; www.praha-vysehrad.cz; Vyšehradské sady, Vyšehrad; adult/child 50/30Kč; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; mVyšehrad) houses a worthwhile exhibit; its overview of the history of Prague’s fortification helps put Vyšehrad’s sights into perspective.

9 Beer with a View

Along the fortress's southern ramparts, Cafe Citadela ( GOOGLE MAP ; Vyšehrad Citadel, Vyšehrad; h9.30am-6pm; mVyšehrad) is an outdoor beer garden with a relaxed vibe and nice views. Come for a coffee or beer and enjoy the setting with a young, mostly local crowd.

Vinohrady & Žižkov

Vinohrady and Žižkov are the yin and yang of residential Prague. Gentrified Vinohrady, named for its days as the royal vineyards, boasts high-ceilinged, art nouveau apartment buildings and is popular with young professionals and expats. The ‘people’s republic’ of Žižkov is historically working class, rebellious and revolutionary, famed for its numerous pubs, alternative nightlife and multicultural population.

PETER FORSBERG/PEOPLE/ALAMY ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start your day with a coffee and pastry at one of the cafes around Peace Square (náměstí Míru), the centre of Vinohrady and easily reached by metro. We love Bio Zahrada, a short walk from the square. Take the metro one stop to Jiřiho z Poděbrad and admire the modern Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. From here, it's just a short walk to the TV Tower in Žižkov, where you can ride to the top or simply ogle the larger-than-life baby statues crawling up the outside.

R There are lots of good lunch options in the area. Try The Tavern for burgers or down-to-earth Czech fare at Pastička. If you get a sunny afternoon, relax at the neighborhood's Riegrovy sady park, where locals congregate for leisurely strolls and beer drinking.

N For evenings, try an elegant Italian dinner at Aromi or some tapas at the very popular Kofein. Finish the day with some live music at Palác Akropolis or dancing at Techtle Mechtle or Termix.

l  Local Life

Drinking tour of Vinohrady & Žižkov

x  Best of Prague

Cafes & Pubs

U Slovanské Lípy

Bio Zahrada

Prague Beer Museum

Eating

Kofein

Bisos

The Tavern

Nightlife

Palác Akropolis

Radost FX

Techtle Mechtle

Gay & Lesbian

Termix

Café Celebrity

Getting There

Metro Line A to Náměstí Míru, Jiřiho z Poděbrad or Flora.

Tram Line 4, 10, 16 or 22 to Náměstí Míru, line 11 to Jiřiho z Poděbrad.

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Local Life

Drinking Tour of Vinohrady & Žižkov

In Prague, there’s no better place to make a night of it: Žižkov, on one side, proudly claims to have more pubs per square metre than anywhere else in the world; on the other side, classy Vinohrady is home to some serious wine and cocktail bars, where the staff really know how to mix a drink.

1 Put Something In Your Stomach

A sturdy meal is always a good idea if a night of drinking is on the cards. Vinohradský Parlament ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 250 403; www.vinohradskyparlament.cz; Korunní 1, Vinohrady; mains 170-239Kč; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat, 11.30am-11.30pm Sun; W; mNáměstí Míru), on Peace Square (náměstí Míru), offers excellent traditional Czech pub food, paired with the best beers offered by the Staropramen brewery.

2 Night at the 'Museum'

Just across Peace Square, the Prague Beer Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %777 679 767; www.praguebeermuseum.com; Americká 43, Vinohrady; hnoon-3am; W; mNáměstí Míru) – actually a pub – offers 30 regional Czech beers on tap. So, once you've had your fill of Staropramen, see what else the country has to offer.

3 French Wine With Style

One metro stop away, at Jiřího z Poděbrad, Le Caveau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %775 294 864; www.broz-d.cz; náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad 9, Vinohrady; h8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat, 2pm-8.30pm Sun; W; mJiřího z Poděbrad) offers the city's best selection of French wines and upmarket cheeses and snacks to match. Wine-drinkers may want to start the night right here.

4 Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden

A short walk from Jiřího z Poděbrad, the Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; Riegrovy sady, Vinohrady; hnoon-1am May-Sep; mJiřího z Poděbrad, j11) is especially popular at night (until around 1am in summer), when the picnic tables fill to bursting with everyone making merry with cheap Gambrinus beer and slightly more expensive Pilsner Urquell.

5 Classy Cocktails at Bar & Books

At this stage, you can stay classy or go crazy. For classy, Bar & Books Mánesova ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 724 581; www.barandbooks.cz; Mánesova 64, Vinohrady; h5pm-3am; W; j11) is a sensuous cocktail lounge featuring lush, library-themed decor, top-shelf liquor and live music some nights.

6 Crazy Dancing at Termix

If crazy is the order of the night and it's after 10pm, gay-friendly Termix ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %222 710 462; www.club-termix.cz; Třebízského 4a, Vinohrady; h9pm-5am Wed-Sun; mJiřího z Poděbrad) is the place spend the evening. It stays open until 5am or so on weekends, so no need to move on from here if this is your scene.

7 Beer at U Sadu

For more working-class libations, the congenial neighbourhood pub U Sadu ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 727 072; www.usadu.cz; Škroupovo nám 5, Žižkov; h8am-4am Tue-Sat, to 2am Sun & Mon; mJiřího z Poděbrad) is supremely popular with old locals, dreadlocked students and expats alike. Staff also run the kitchen past midnight here, so if you're craving a snack, this may be your only option.

8 Nightcap at Bukowski’s

On the Žižkov street that’s reckoned to have more drinking dens per metre than anywhere else in Prague, Bukowski’s ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 212 676; Bořivojova 86, Žižkov; h7pm-3am; j5, 9, 26), named after the hard-drinking American poet Charles Bukowski, is a cut above its neighbours. Expect cool tunes and confident cocktails.

1 Sights

1Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord  D3

2TV Tower  D3

3New Jewish Cemetery  H3

4National Monument  D1

5 Eating

5Kofein  D4

6Aromi  D4

7Bisos  C2

8The Tavern  C3

9Pastička  B3

10Mozaika  D4

6 Drinking

11Bio Zahrada  B5

12Café Kaaba  B3

13U Slovanské Lípy  E1

14Saints  C3

15Café Celebrity  B4

3 Entertainment

16Palác Akropolis  D2

17Techtle Mechtle  B4

18Termix  C4

19Radost FX  A4

Sights

1Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our LordCHURCH

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This church, from 1932, is one of Prague’s most original pieces of 20th-century architecture. It’s the work of Jože Plečnik, a Slovenian architect who also worked on Prague Castle. The church is inspired by Egyptian temples and early Christian basilicas. It’s usually only open to the public during mass.

(Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně; %222 727 713; www.srdcepane.cz; náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad 19, Vinohrady; hservices 8am & 6pm Mon-Sat, 9am, 11am & 6pm Sun; mJiřího z Poděbrad)

1TV TowerTOWER

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Prague’s tallest landmark – and, depending on your tastes, either its ugliest or its most futuristic feature – is the 216m-tall TV Tower, erected between 1985 and 1992. But more bizarre than its architecture are the 10 giant crawling babies that appear to be exploring the outside of the tower – an installation called Miminka (Mummy; GOOGLE MAP ), by artist David Černý.

(Televizní Vysílač; %210 320 081; www.towerpark.cz; Mahlerovy sady 1, Žižkov; adult/child/family 180/100/420Kč; hobservation decks 8am-midnight; mJiřího z Poděbrad)

Miminka (Mummy) sculpture, by David Černý, TV Tower

JONATHAN SMITH/GETTY IMAGES ©

1New Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY

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Franz Kafka is buried in this cemetery, which opened around 1890 when the older Jewish cemetery – now at the foot of the TV Tower – was closed. To find Kafka’s grave ( GOOGLE MAP ), follow the main avenue east (signposted), turn right at row 21, then left at the wall; it’s at the end of the ‘block’. Fans make a pilgrimage on 3 June, the anniversary of his death.

(Nový židovské hřbitov; %226 235 216; www.kehilaprag.cz; Izraelská 1, Žižkov; h9am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 2pm Fri Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 2pm Fri Nov-Mar, closed on Jewish holidays; mŽelivského)

1National MonumentMUSEUM

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While this monument's massive functionalist structure has all the elegance of a nuclear power station, the interior is a spectacular extravaganza of polished art deco marble, gilt and mosaics, and home to a fascinating museum of 20th-century Czechoslovak history.

(Národní Památník na Vítkově; %222 781 676; www.nm.cz; U Památníku 1900, Žižkov; exhibition only adult/child 60/30Kč, roof terrace 80/40Kč, combined ticket 110/60Kč; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to 6pm Thu-Sun Nov-Mar; g133, 175, 207)

Understand

Not Big in Belgium

Design buffs beware. When Czechs talk about 'Brussels style', they’re not referring to Belgian art nouveau or anything related to Henry Van de Velde. Rather, they’re harking back to a heyday of their own national design when, despite the constraints of working under a communist regime, Czechoslovakia triumphed with its circular restaurant pavilion at the 1958 Brussels Expo. More than a hundred local designers took away awards, including porcelain designer Jaroslav Ježek, who won the Grand Prix for his Elka coffee service. The aesthetics of the time were similar to what you see at    Café Kaaba. For a more authentic take, visit Veletržní Palác.

Understand

How the Tower Got Its Babies

It was Czech artist/provacateur David Černý who first placed the creepy babies on the side of the Žižkov TV Tower in an installation called Miminka (Mummy), timed for Prague’s reign as European Capital of Culture in 2000. The babies came down at the end of that year, but the resultant public outcry saw them reinstated, and it seems they’re now a permanent fixture.

We're no art critics here, but the babies    are sporting slotted faces, like a USB drive, lending at least one interpretation that the installation is intended as a commentary on our over-dependence on media for sustenance. Or maybe not. Come to think of it, the tower does look a bit like a baby's bottle...

Eating

5KofeinSPANISH €€

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One of the hottest restaurants in town is this Spanish-style tapas place not far from the Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station. Descend into a lively space to see a red-faced chef minding the busy grill. Our faves include marinated trout with horseradish and pork belly confit with celeriac. Service is prompt and friendly. Book ahead.

(%273 132 145; www.ikofein.cz; Nitranská 9, Vinohrady; 3 tapas plates 270Kč; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat & Sun; Wv; mJiřího z Poděbrad, j11)

5AromiITALIAN €€€

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Red brick, polished wood and country-style furniture create a rustic atmosphere in this gourmet Italian restaurant. Brisk and businesslike at lunchtime, romantic in the evening, Aromi has a reputation for authentic, excellent Italian cuisine. Advance booking essential.

(%222 713 222; www.aromi.cz; Mánesova 78, Vinohrady; mains 400-600Kč; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; W; mJiřího z Poděbrad, j11 to Jiřího z Poděbrad)

5BisosITALIAN €€

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The lyrics of a love song (in Sardinian dialect) by Sardinian band Tazenda adorn the walls of this cool little restaurant on the fringes of Žižkov. And you may well fall in love with the food (also Sardinian), ranging from unusual breakfast dishes (buckwheat pancake with goat's cheese, pistachios and maple syrup) to seafood sauté and venison with pumpkin purée.

(%608 550 970; bisos.eu; U Rajské zahrady 16, Žižkov; mains 255-355Kč; h7.30am-11.30pm Tue-Sun; W; j5, 9, 26)

5The TavernBURGERS €

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This cosy sit-down burger joint is the dream of a husband-and-wife team of American expats who wanted to create the perfect burger using organic products and free-range, grass-fed beef. Great pulled-pork sandwiches, fries and bourbon-based cocktails, too. Reservations are taken only over the website or email and only for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

(www.eng.thetavern.cz; Chopinova 26, Vinohrady; burgers 139-199Kč; h5-10pm Tue, 11.30am-10pm Wed-Sun; mJiřího z Poděbrad, j11)

5PastičkaCZECH €€

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A warm, inviting ground-floor pub with a little garden out the back, Pastička is great for a beer or a meal. The interior design is part 1920s Prague and part Irish pub. Most come for the beer, but the mix of international and traditional Czech dishes is very good.

(%222 253 228; www.pasticka.cz; Blanická 25, Vinohrady; mains 149-429Kč; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am Sat & Sun; W; mJiřího z Poděbrad, j11)

5MozaikaINTERNATIONAL €€

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One of the most dependably good restaurants in the neighbourhood. The theme is an updated French bistro, with beef tournedos and boeuf Bourguignon sharing the spotlight with international entrees such as stir-fries, chicken breasts and, our personal favourite (occasionally on the menu): salmon wrapped in seaweed and served with wasabi mashed potatoes. Excellent wine list. Advance booking essential.

(%224 253 011; www.restaurantmozaika.cz; Nitranská 13, Vinohrady; mains 180-450Kč; W; mJiřího z Poděbrad)

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Local Life

Riegrovy Sady

The hilltop park Riegrovy sady (Rieger Gardens; GOOGLE MAP ; entrance on Chopinova, across from Na Švíhance, Vinohrady; h24h; mJiřího z Poděbrad) gets press for its popular beer garden, but the green space itself is worthy of a visit. On the park's western side, a long grassy slope offers a magnificent view of Prague Castle and the city’s red roofs. For a little peace and quiet, grab a beer or a sandwich from the beer garden (or a smaller cafe in the park) and seat yourself on a wooden bench.

Drinking

6Bio ZahradaCAFE

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This organic coffee shop serves high-end coffees and pastries in a welcoming, rustic setting with a big garden out back. It also serves light food items, including a daily, good-value lunch special with veggie curries and risottos for 129Kč. There's a small shop at the front that specialises in organic food items, including pastries, grains, dairy products and tofu.

(%222 518 698; www.bio-zahrada.cz; Belgická 33, Vinohrady; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat; W; mNáměstí Miru)

6Café KaabaCAFE

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Café Kaaba is a stylish little cafe-bar with retro furniture and pastel-coloured decor that comes straight out of the 1959 Ideal Homes Exhibition. It serves up excellent coffee (made with freshly ground imported beans). Note that the wi-fi is only free for customers from opening until 6pm. Nonsmoking until 9pm.

(%222 254 021; www.kaaba.cz; Mánesova 20, Vinohrady; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; W; j11)

6U Slovanské LípyPUB

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A classic Žižkov pub, plain and unassuming outside and in, ‘At the Linden Trees’ (the linden is a Czech and Slovak national emblem) is something of a place of pilgrimage for beer lovers. The reason is its range of artisan brews, such as those from the Kout na Šumavě brewery, including a superb světlý ležák (pale lager).

(%734 743 094; www.uslovanskelipy.cz; Tachovské náměstí 6, Žižkov; h11am-midnight; Wc; g133, 175, 207)

6SaintsBAR

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Sealing the deal on Prague’s booming ‘gay quarter’ in Vinohrady, this British-run bar is laid-back, friendly and serves good drinks. With a multinational staff speaking many languages, for newcomers it’s the perfect starter to the local scene.

(%222 250 326; www.saintsbar.cz; Polská 32, Vinohrady; h7pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; mJiřího z Poděbrad)

6Café CelebrityCAFE

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This cafe is part of the cluster of gay-friendly places that make up the old Radio Palác building. The Celebrity offers early-morning breakfasts on weekdays and a more relaxed brunch on weekends. At other times, it’s great for coffee and people-watching.

(%222 511 343; www.celebritycafe.cz; Vinohradská 40, Vinohrady; h8am-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; W; mNáměstí Míru)

Understand

Absinth(e) Makes the Heart Grow Fonder

For many visitors, Prague is synonymous with absinth. That’s been the case since the 1990s, when Czech drinks firm Hills cleverly revived this long-banned, legendary and allegedly hallucinatory 19th-century French-Swiss tipple. Today, however, the Swiss and French have resumed production of the genuine ‘green fairy’, and true connoisseurs hold their noses when it comes to replica ‘Czechsinths’.

What’s the difference? Most Czech brands (whether spelt absinth or absinthe) use oil to mix the active ingredient, wormwood, into the liquid, instead of properly distilling it. If you’ll be packing a bottle in your suitcase, try the pricey but excellent Czech-made absinth    Toulouse Lautrec (about 1200Kč at shops around town).

Entertainment

3Palác AkropolisLIVE MUSIC

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The Akropolis is a Prague institution, a smoky, labyrinthine, sticky-floored shrine to alternative music and drama. Its various performance spaces host a smorgasbord of musical and cultural events, from DJs to string quartets to Macedonian Roma bands to local rock gods to visiting talent – Marianne Faithfull, the Flaming Lips and the Strokes have all played here.

(%296 330 911; www.palacakropolis.cz; Kubelíkova 27, Žižkov; admission free-200Kč; hclub 7pm-5am; W; j5, 9, 26 to Lipanska)

3Techtle MechtleCLUB

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A popular cellar dance bar on Vinohrady’s main drag. The name translates to ‘hanky panky’ in Czech and that’s what most of the swanky people who come here are after. In addition to a well-tended cocktail bar, you’ll find a decent restaurant and dance floor, and occasional special events. Arrive early to get a good table.

(%222 250 143; www.techtle-mechtle.cz; Vinohradská 47, Vinohrady; h6pm-4am Tue-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; W; mNáměstí Míru, j11 to Vinohradská tržnice)

3Radost FXCLUB

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Though not quite as trendy as it once was, slick and shiny Radost is still capable of pulling in the crowds, with themed dance parties each night of the week. The regular Thursday night hip-hop and R & B party remains the most popular. The place has a chilled-out, bohemian atmosphere, with an excellent lounge and vegetarian restaurant.

(%224 254 776; www.radostfx.cz; Bělehradská 120, Vinohrady; cover 100-250Kč; h10pm-6am; W; mIP Pavlova)

Holešovice

In Holešovice, you start to appreciate Prague as a genuine working city. Though sections of this former industrial quarter remain somewhat rundown, the neighbourhood has been slowly gentrifying. The hilltop beer garden at Letná is a relaxing spot on a warm evening in summer, while the National Gallery's impressive holdings at Veletržní Palác may be Prague's most underrated museum.

PROFIMEDIA.CZ A.S./ALAMY ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start the morning with culture. If you're travelling with kids, head for the National Technical Museum, with its giant hall filled with historic locomotives and antique cars. If you're on your own, go for the eye-opening collection of modern art at the Veletržní Palác. There are a lot of good cafes in the neighbourhood for a pick-me-up drink or some lunch – we like Kumbal, just a short walk from the Veletržní Palác.

R After lunch, get some fresh air at one of the neighbourhood's two big parks: Letná Gardens or Stromovka. The former has a handy beer garden, where an afternoon can easily slide into evening. Stromovka has more room to roam and is close to Zoo Mořský Svět, the city's largest aquarium and another good spot for kids.

N Holešovice is short on good restaurants, but Fraktal has a killer burger and the Italian food at Peperoncino is good value. Both are close to Letná Gardens. In the mood for a show? Křižík’s Fountain (singing fountain) pairs water gyrations with classical music. For clubbing, there's funky, postindustrial Cross Club or upscale Mecca.

1  Top Sights

Veletržní Palác

x  Best of Prague

Bars & Pubs

Letná Beer Garden

Fraktal

Museums

Veletržní Palác

National Technical Museum

DOX Centre for Contemporary Art

For Kids

Stromovka

Zoo Mořský Svět

Nightlife

Mecca

SaSaZu

Cross Club

Getting There

j Tram Lines 1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí; lines 1, 5, 8, 12, 17, 24, 25, 26 to Strossmayerovo náměstí.

m Metro Line C to Vltavská or Nádraží Holešovice.

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Top Sights

Veletržní Palác

The National Gallery's collection of art from the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries is a must for serious art lovers, particularly fans of those modern movements – such as impressionism, constructivism, Dadaism and surrealism – that shattered the art world in the early 20th century. The holdings are strong on French impressionists, early modern masters like Schiele, Klimt and Picasso, and the talented generation of Czech artists working in the 1920s and '30s. Side exhibits look at trends in architecture and design.

National Gallery, Veletržní Palác

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%224 301 122; www.ngprague.cz; Dukelských hrdinů 47; adult/concession 200/100Kč; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mVltavská, j1, 8, 12, 17, 24, 25, 26 to Strossmayerovo náměstí

y Top Tips

A The museum is huge. If you only have an hour or two, just hit the highlights listed here.

A If you’re travelling with children, the museum offers a family pass for the discounted price of 250Kč.

A Pick up Prague postcards or souvenirs at the museum shop.

5 Take a Break

The museum cafe, located on the ground floor and open during museum hours, is convenient for a coffee.

A few blocks away, the funky cafe Kumbal is a charming place for coffee or lunch.

Don’t Miss

French Collection

Thanks to a strong Bohemian interest in French painting, the palace’s 3rd floor has an impressive collection of 19th- and 20th-century French art. Artists represented include Monet, Gauguin, Cézanne, Picasso, Delacroix and Rodin. Look for Gauguin’s Flight and Van Gogh’s Green Wheat.

Avant-Garde Czech Art

The museum’s display of 20th-century Czech art (also on the 3rd floor) is one of the country’s finest. Standouts include the geometric works by František Kupka, and cubist paintings, ceramics and design by several different artists – these paintings show an interesting parallel with the concurrent art scene in Paris. On the 2nd floor, look for the most contemporary Czech works across several genres.

Female Imagery in the International Collection

The 20th-century international collection, on the 1st floor, boasts works by some major names: Klimt, Schiele, Sherman and Miró, to name a few. Two highlights take on feminine themes: Klimt’s luscious, vibrantly hued The Virgins and Schiele’s much darker, foreboding Pregnant Woman and Death.

Alfons Mucha's Slav Epic

Through 2015 at least, the museum is also exhibiting Alfons Mucha's grandiose Slav Epic (Slovanská epopej), a collection of 20 giant paintings that tell the story of the Slavic peoples. Mucha dedicated much of his career to creating these canvasses. Entry requires a separate admission ticket.

1 Top Sights

Veletržní Palác  C3

1 Sights

1National Technical Museum  B4

2Letná Gardens  B4

3Zoo Mořský Svět  C2

4Křižík's Fountain  B1

5Výstaviště  B2

5 Eating

6Peperoncino  B3

6 Drinking

7Letná Beer Garden  B4

8Fraktal  A3

9Kumbal  C3

3 Entertainment

10Cross Club  D1

11Mecca  E2

12SaSaZu  D3

13Tipsport Aréna  C1

7 Shopping

14Pivní Galerie  E2

Sights

1National Technical MuseumMUSEUM

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Prague’s most family-friendly museum got a high-tech renovation in 2012 and is a dazzling presentation of the country's industrial heritage. If that sounds dull, it's anything but. Start in the main hall, filled to the rafters with historic planes, trains and automobiles. There are separate halls devoted to exhibits on astronomy, photography, printing and architecture.

(Národní Technické Muzeum; %220 399 111; www.ntm.cz; Kostelní 42; adult/concession 190/90Kč; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; c; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí)

1Letná GardensPARK

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Lovely Letná Gardens is a large park that occupies a bluff over the Vltava river, north of the Old Town, with postcard-perfect views out over the city, river and bridges. It’s ideal for walking, jogging and beer drinking at a popular beer garden at the eastern end. The entrance is 10 minutes on foot south of Letenské náměstí.

(Letenské sady; h24h; c; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí)

1Zoo Mořský SvětAQUARIUM

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The Czech ‘Sea World’ has the largest water tank in the country, with a capacity of around 100,000L. Some 4500 living species of fish and sea creatures are on display, with a good (and suitably scary) set of sharks. The cramped interior will be disappointing if you’re used to larger ‘Sea World’–type amusement parks around the world.

(%220 103 275; www.morskysvet.cz; U Výstaviště 1, Bubeneč; adult/concession 280/180Kč; h10am-7pm; c; j12, 17, 24 to Výstaviště)

1Křižík’s FountainFOUNTAIN

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Each evening from spring to autumn the musical Křižík’s Fountain performs its computer-controlled light-and-water dance. Performances range from classical music such as Dvořák’s New World Symphony to rousing works performed by Andrea Bocelli, Queen or Scorpions. Check the website for what’s on. The show is best after sunset – from May to July go for later shows.

(Křižíkova fontána; %723 665 694; www.krizikovafontana.cz; U Výstaviště 1, Bubeneč; admission 220Kč; hperformances hourly 8-11pm Mar-Oct; c; j12, 17, 24 to Výstaviště)

1VýstavištěPUBLIC SPACE

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A sprawling area of attractions and buildings of various architectural styles that was first laid out for the 1891 Jubilee Exhibition. These days it holds mainly trade fairs, but also has a branch of the National Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %233 375 636; www.nm.cz; U Výstaviště 1, Bubeneč; adult/concession 50/30Kč; hnoon-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct; j12, 17, 24 to Výstaviště), a 'singing fountain', the city's biggest aquarium and a slightly scruffy amusement park that's open daily from April to October.

(Exhibition Grounds; %220 103 111; www.incheba.cz; Areál Výstaviště, Bubeneč; h9am-11pm; j12, 17, 24 to Výstaviště)

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Local Life

DOX Centre for Contemporary Art

Just a short tram ride away from Veletržní Palác, the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art ( GOOGLE MAP ; %295 568 123; www.dox.cz; Poupětova 1; adult/concession 180/90Kč; h10am-6pm Mon, 11am-7pm Wed & Fri, 11am-9pm Thu, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; j12, 14, 24 to Ortenovo náměstí) is a private gallery and museum that's trying to reestablish Holešovice's reputation as repository of Prague's best modern art. This minimalist multilevel building occupies an entire corner block, providing Prague’s most capacious gallery space, studded with a diverse range of thought-provoking contemporary art and photography. Don’t miss DOX’s excellent cafe and bookshop.

Eating

5PeperoncinoITALIAN €€

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Insider's choice for good, reasonably priced Italian cooking in the western end of Holešovice. The grilled octopus and beans starter is a neighbourhood favourite, but we’re partial to the beef or tuna carpaccio. The pastas and main courses are all excellent, and the wine list has lots of affordable Czech and Italian choices. Beautiful, bucolic garden in summer. Reservations recommended.

(%233 312 438; www.restaurant-peperoncino.cz; Letohradská 34; mains 180-390Kč; h11am-11pm; v; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí)

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Local Life

Stromovka Park

Prague’s largest central park, Stromovka (Královská obora; GOOGLE MAP ; entry at Výstaviště or Nad Královskou oborou 21, Bubeneč; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí), was once a medieval hunting ground for royals; now it’s popular with strollers, joggers, cyclists and inline skaters. Kids can climb on the huge gnarled branches of ancient fallen trees or play at one of several playgrounds – and adults will appreciate the lavish tulip display in spring.

Drinking

6Letná Beer GardenBEER GARDEN

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No accounting of watering holes in the neighbourhood would be complete without a nod towards the city’s best beer garden, situated at the eastern end of the Letná Gardens. Buy a takeaway beer from a small kiosk and grab a picnic table, or sit on a small terrace where you can order beer by the glass and decent pizza.

(%233 378 208; www.letenskyzamecek.cz; Letenské sady 341; h11am-11pm summer only; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí)

Letná Beer Garden

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

6FraktalBAR

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This subterranean space under a corner house near Letenské náměstí is easily the friendliest bar this side of the Vltava. This is especially true for English-speakers, as Fraktal serves as a kind of unofficial expat watering hole. There’s also good bar fare such as burgers. The only drawback is the early closing time (last orders at 11.30pm).

(%777 794 094; www.fraktalbar.cz; Šmeralová 1, Bubeneč; mains 120-300Kč; W; j1, 8, 12, 25, 26 to Letenské náměstí)

6KumbalCAFE

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This stylish coffee bar in a 1930s functionalist building manages to be both hip and comfortable at the same time. There are good coffee and tea drinks, though not much on the menu aside from a few simple sandwiches and a daily soup (usually vegetarian). Breakfast is served every day until 11.30am.

(%604 959 323; www.kumbal.cz; Heřmanová 12; h8am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9.30pm Sat & Sun; Wc; j1, 8, 12, 17, 24, 25, 26 to Strossmayerovo náměstí)

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Local Life

Prague Zoo

Prague’s attractive zoo (Zoo Praha; GOOGLE MAP ; %296 112 230; www.zoopraha.cz; U Trojského zámku 120, Troja; adult/concession/family 200/150/600Kč; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May, Sep & Oct, to 5pm Mar, to 4pm Nov-Feb; c; g112, mNádraží Holešovice) is set in 60 hectares of wooded grounds on the banks of the Vltava. It makes for a great outing for kids. There are sizeable collections of giraffes and gorillas, but pride of place goes to a herd of rare horses. Attractions include a miniature cable car and a big play area.

Entertainment

6Cross ClubCLUB

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An industrial club in every sense of the word: the setting in an industrial zone; the thumping music (both DJs and live acts); and the interior, an absolute must-see jumble of gadgets, shafts, cranks and pipes, many of which move and pulsate with light to the music. The program includes occasional live music, theatre performances and art happenings.

(%736 535 010; www.crossclub.cz; Plynární 23; admission free-150Kč; hcafe noon-2am, club 6pm-4am; W; mNádraží Holešovice)

3MeccaCLUB

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This former warehouse in Holešovice had a slick renovation and now boasts fun on three floors (and five bars). It's weekends only, with Friday usually given over to a weekly R&B party featuring DJs from around the country and occasionally around Europe. The crowd tends to be a bit older – professionals in their 20s, 30s and 40s.

(%734 155 300; www.mecca.cz; U Průhonu 3; cover 100-200Kč; h10pm-6am Fri & Sat; W; j1, 12, 14, 25)

Mecca

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

6SaSaZuCLUB

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One of the most popular dance clubs in the city, Sasazu attracts the fashionable elite and hangers-on in equal measure. If you’re into big dance floors and long lines (hint: go early), this is your place. Check the website for occasional big-name acts (such as Bastille or Morcheeba). Book a table in advance by phone (10am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 4pm to 10pm Saturday).

(%778 054 054; www.sasazu.com; Bubenské nábřeží 306, Hall 25, Pražská Tržnice; admission 200-1000Kč; h9pm-5am; W; mVltavská, j1, 14, 25 to Pražská Tržnice)

3Tipsport ArénaSPECTATOR SPORT

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You can see the ice-hockey team HC Sparta Praha – Czech Extraliga champions in 2006 and 2007 – play at the 13,000-capacity Tipsport Aréna beside the exhibition grounds in Holešovice. Buy tickets online at www.ticketportal.cz or at the stadium box office before matches.

(Sportovní Hala; %266 727 443; tipsportarena-praha.cz; Za elektrárnou 419; match tickets 180-400Kč; hbox office 1pm-5.30pm Mon-Fri; mNádraží Holešovice, j12, 17, 24 to Výstaviště)

Understand

Oh, How We Laughed at Škoda...

During the communist era, Czechoslovakia’s tiny Škoda car became the butt of many of the same kinds of jokes as East Germany’s Trabant – although the Škoda was more ridiculed abroad than at home. Indeed, when Volkswagen bought the firm in 1991, its UK ads used the self-deprecating ‘It’s a Škoda, honest’ to sell its seriously improved models. Jokes still linger about the older Škodas (the name in Czech means 'pity') in the National Technical Museum. But Škoda is now one of Europe’s most successful brands, so it looks like it is having the last laugh.

A What do you call a Škoda with twin exhaust pipes? A wheelbarrow.

A How do you double the value of a Škoda? Fill the petrol tank.

A A guy walks into a garage and asks ‘Can you give me a petrol cap for my Škoda?’ The mechanic says, ‘OK, sounds like a fair swap.’

A What’s the difference between a door-to-door salesman and a Škoda? You can shut the door on a door-to-door salesman.

Shopping

7Pivní GalerieFOOD & DRINK

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If you think Czech beer begins and ends with Pilsner Urquell, a visit to the tasting room at Pivní Galerie (the Beer Gallery) will lift the scales from your eyes. Here you can sample and purchase a huge range of Bohemian and Moravian beers – nearly 150 varieties from 30 different breweries – with expert advice from the owners.

(%220 870 613; www.pivnigalerie.cz; U Průhonu 9; h11am-7pm Wed-Fri; j1, 12, 14, 25 to U Průhonu)

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The Best of

Prague

Kafka's Prague

Velvet Revolution

Prague River Walk

Bars & Pubs

Food

Art

Museums

History

For Kids

For Free

Architecture

Shopping

Clubs

Live Music

Gay & Lesbian

2

Best Walks

Kafka’s Prague

2The Walk

‘This narrow circle encompasses my entire life’, Franz Kafka (1883–1924) once said, drawing an outline around Prague’s Old Town. While an exaggeration (he travelled and died abroad), Prague is a constant, unspoken presence in Kafka’s writing, and this walk through the Old Town passes some of his regular haunts.

Start Náměstí Republiky; mNáměstí Republiky

Finish Hotel Intercontinental; mStaroměstská

Length 2km; 40 minutes

Old Town Square

FRANCESCO IACOBELLI/GETTY IMAGES ©

5Take a Break

Near the Spanish Synagogue in Prague’s old Jewish neighbourhood, Bakeshop Praha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %222 316 823; www.bakeshop.cz; Kozí 1; sandwiches 75-200Kč; h7am-9pm; mStaroměstská) is a perfect corner spot for gourmet coffee and pastries.

1 Worker’s Accident Insurance Company

Kafka's fiction was informed by his mundane day job as an insurance clerk; he worked for 14 years (1908–22) at the Worker’s Accident Insurance Company at Na Poříčí 7. His walk home passed the Powder Gate and the newly built Municipal House.

2 House of the Three Kings

Just before the Old Town Sq at Celetná 3 is the House of the Three Kings, where the Kafkas lived from 1896 to 1907. Franz's room, overlooking the Church of Our Lady Before Týn, is where he wrote his first story.

3 Sixt House

Across Celetná, the Sixt House was an earlier childhood home (1888–89). Nearby, at Staroměstské náměstí 17, is At the Unicorn (U Jednorožce) – home to Berta Fanta, who hosted literary salons for thinkers of the day, including Kafka and a young Albert Einstein.

4 House of the Minute

The House of the Minute (dům U minuty), the Renaissance corner building attached to the Old Town Hall, was where Franz lived as a young boy (1889–96). He later recalled being dragged to his school in Masná street by the family cook.

5 Kafka’s Birthplace

Just west of the Church of St Nicholas is Kafka’s birthplace, marked by a bust of him at náměstí Franze Kafky 3 (formerly U Radnice 5). All that remains of the original house is the stone portal.

Kafka’s birthplace, Old Town Square

JONATHAN SMITH/GETTY IMAGES ©

6 Kafka’s Bachelor Pad

Despite several fraught love affairs, Kafka never married and lived mostly with his parents. One of his few bachelor flats can be found at Dlouhá 16.

7 Bílkova Apartment

Continuing north past the Franz Kafka monument you’ll come to another of Kafka’s temporary apartments at Bílkova 22. In 1914 he began The Trial here.

8 Hotel Intercontinental

Head west to Pařížská and north towards the river. In the Hotel Intercontinental’s grounds once stood another Kafka family apartment (1907–13), where Franz wrote his Oedipal short story 'The Judgment' (1912), and began Metamorphosis, about a man who transformed into a giant insect.

2

Best Walks

Velvet Revolution

2The Walk

It’s been a quarter-century since 1989’s Velvet Revolution – when Czechs peacefully overthrew their communist overlords – but it will always be a landmark event. This walk takes you past the sites of the large-scale protests, strikes and press conferences that heralded epic change in the Czech Republic.

Start Národní třída

Finish Former Radio Free Europe Building; mMuzeum

Length 2km; 45 minutes

5Take a Break

Found just off Wenceslas Sq in a faded but formerly glamorous shopping gallery, Kavárna Lucerna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 215 495; www.restaurace-monarchie.cz; Lucerna Pasáž, Štěpánská 61; h10am-midnight; W; mMůstek, j3, 9, 14, 24) is an atmospheric place for coffee or a beer.

1 Student Memorial

We start where the revolution itself began. The bronze sculpture under the arches marks the tragic events of 17 November 1989, when tens of thousands of students marching to remember Czechs murdered in WWII were attacked by riot police.

2 Adria Palace

The beautiful, rondocubist Adria Palace (Národní třída 36) temporarily served as the headquarters of Civic Forum, the umbrella group formed by Václav Havel to represent the protesters and their demands. In the weeks after 17 November, this was a beehive of dissident activity.

3 Museum of Communism

The Museum of Communism illuminates local communist history – and the lies, privations and humiliations that ultimately drove the revolution demanding the regime's end. A short, graphic film shows the events of 1989.

4 Melantrich Building

The action soon spread to nearby Wenceslas Square and the Melantrich Building (now a Marks & Spencer). On 24 November, Havel deposed ‘Prague Spring’ president Alexander Dubček addressed the crowds from its balcony.

5 St Wenceslas Statue

The Wenceslas Statue, at the upper end of the square, was bedecked by protesters with flags, posters and political slogans.

6 Činoherní Klub Theatre

Prague's theatres were used for public discussions. The Civic Forum was formed on 19 November at Činoherní Klub Theatre (Ve Smečkách 26) and immediately demanded the resignations of communist functionaries.

7 Jan Palach Memorial

Just in front of the National Museum is the Jan Palach Memorial, an inlaid cross for a student who set himself on fire in 1969 to protest the Soviet-led Warsaw Pact invasion of the previous year – becoming a national hero in the process.

Jan Palach Memorial

PETER ERIK FORSBERG/PRAGUE/ALAMY ©

8 Former Radio Free Europe Building

At the top of the square, left of the National Museum, stands the former building for Radio Free Europe, the US-funded radio station that helped bring down the communist regime. It now houses a branch of the National Museum.

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Best Walks

Prague River Walk

2The Walk

The Vltava River runs through the heart of Prague and served as muse for composer Bedřich Smetana in writing his moving ‘Vltava’ (Moldau) symphony, probably the best-known Czech work of classical music. But you don’t need to be a musician to enjoy the river’s breathtaking bridges and backdrops on this extended walk along (and across) the waterway.

Start Convent of St Agnes; mStaroměstská

Finish Dancing Building; mKarlovo Náměstí

Length 8km; three hours

5Take a Break

Perched on the river’s edge, old-fashioned Kavárna Slavia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %224 220 957; www.cafeslavia.cz; Národní třída 1; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W; j6, 9, 12, 20, 22) is the place to stop for coffee and cake (though not necessarily a meal). Try for a table by the big windows facing Prague Castle.

Vltava River and Charles Bridge

SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES ©

1 Convent of St Agnes

Start the walk outside the Convent of St Agnes, the oldest Gothic building in Bohemia – building began in 1231. It’s named after Princess Agnes, humanitarian and founder of the only Czech religious order in the 13th century. It’s supposedly haunted by the ghost of a nun who was killed by her own father after falling in love with a young man.

2 Letná Gardens

Crossing Čech Bridge (Čechův most), look out over the river and take in the sun-dappled sights of the castle complex and Petřín Hill. Climb the steps up to the Metronome and to Letná Gardens. Amble around up here as you like and take in the view of the Old Town and Malá Strana below.

3 Prague Castle

After you're done gawking, follow the ridge westward (in the direction of castle) for more dramatic views. The path will take you into the interior of the park and across a small bridge all the way to Prague Castle. Enjoy the breeze – and more sweeping views over the Vltava and the red roofs of Malá Strana – from the ramparts or from a park bench in the beautifully manicured royal gardens built up along the hillside.

4 Charles Bridge

From the castle, meander downhill towards another of Prague’s chief attractions: the bustling and always gorgeous Charles Bridge. Midway across the bridge, find a quiet spot to admire your surroundings – the towering medieval gates, the castle, the lazy river, the skyline of Malá Strana, the green slope of Petřín Hill.

5 Slav Island

Once on the Old Town side of the river, turn right (south), with another stretch of beautiful photo-op views. To get closer to the water’s edge, step onto Slav Island. When the weather’s warm, you can rent a paddle boat from the stand at one end. Any time of year, it’s a delightfully quiet place to enjoy a picnic or take a nap in the shade.

6 Dancing Building

Heading further south, continue along the river’s edge until you reach the whimsical yet elegant Dancing Building.

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Best

Bars & Pubs

In the Czech Republic, drinking is a national pastime. It’s no surprise, then, that Prague is an imbiber’s playground. On practically every corner, there’s another pub, wine bar, beer hall or cocktail lounge. Though it’s traditionally a beer-drinker’s city, the landscape is changing – a growing interest in national and international wines plus a trend towards classic cocktails are diversifying the scene.

Beer Basics

When it comes to beer (pivo), Czechs prefer light lagers (světlé) to darker beers (tmavé), though most pubs serve both. Pilsner Urquell is considered the best Czech brand, though Gambrinus, Budvar and Prague's own Staropramen are all popular. Czech beers are usually labelled either dvanáctka (12°) or desítka (10°) – but this doesn't refer to alcohol content (most beers are 4.5% to 5%). The 12° beers, like Pilsner Urquell, tend to be slightly heavier and stronger than 10° beers.

Microbrews & 'Tank' Beer

The global craft beer trend has reached the Czech Republic and is most pronounced in Prague, which boasts around a dozen brew pubs where DIY brewers proffer their own concoctions, usually accompanied by good traditional Czech cooking. To compete with the microbrews, the larger breweries have come up with several innovations, including offering unfiltered (nefiltrované) beer and hauling beer directly to pubs in supersized tanks (called, unsurprisingly, tankové pivo). Tank beer is said to be fresher than beer in traditional kegs, and that sounds good to us.

INGOLF POMPE/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Pub tabs are usually recorded on a slip of paper on your table; don’t write on it or lose it.

A You can usually order a beer in a pub without saying anything; when the waiter approaches, just raise your thumb for one beer, or thumb and index finger for two, etc.

A To pay up and go, say zaplatím (I’ll pay).

A It’s normal to tip a few crowns.

Best for Beer

Prague Beer Museum Not a museum but a hugely popular pub, with 30 varieties on tap.

Jáma Rotating selection of regional beers and microbrews.

U Zlatého Tygra The classic Prague drinking den, where Václav Havel took Bill Clinton in 1994 to show him a real Czech pub.

Pivovarský Dům Popular microbrewery with several beers on tap and decent Czech food.

Letná Beer Garden A big beer garden with stunning views over Prague.

Best Cocktail Bars

Hemingway Bar Snug and sophisticated hideaway.

Hoffa Popular new bar, completely smoke free.

Bukowski's Dark and smoky expat cocktail dive.

Čili Bar Cute and compact, serves rum with chopped chilli peppers.

Tretter's New York Bar Upmarket New York–style cocktail bar.

Best for Wine

Bokovka Extensive menu of top-notch Moravian wines.

Le Caveau Cosy Vinohrady watering hole and deli features excellent French wine.

Café Kaaba Retro cafe that stocks wines from around the world and sells by the glass.

Best Cafes

Grand Cafe Orient A stunning cubist gem with a sunny balcony.

Cafe Louvre Prague’s most agreeable grand cafe and billiards hall.

Kavárna Obecní dům A legendary Viennese-style coffee house inside the art nouveau landmark.

Café Savoy This gorgeous coffee house does a lavish breakfast.

Krásný ztráty Student cafe that doubles as an art gallery and occasional music venue.

Outdoor restaurant overlooking Vltava River

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Food

The restaurant scene in Prague gets better with each passing year. The latest trend is 'slow food' – traditional dishes given a refresh with locally sourced ingredients and less fat and starch. Recent years have seen an explosion in vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and international trends are strong as well.

Czech Cuisine

Czech food in Prague can be hit-and-miss. Traditional dishes like roast pork and sliced bread dumplings (vepřová pečeně s knedlíky) or roast beef in cream sauce (svíčková na smetaně) can be bland (as at many touristy restaurants in the centre) or memorable (when prepared by someone who cares) – choose your restaurants carefully. Other, often delicious, Czech staples include pork knuckle (vepřové koleno), duck (kachna) and goulash (guláš), here served with either beef or pork and bread dumplings.

International Foods

International food trends come and go with the same regularity as in other large cities. Alongside standard international cuisines like French and Italian – and especially pizza – Czechs have developed a taste for good Indian and Asian cooking as well as for steakhouses and Mexican food. The latest trends at time of research include steakhouses, gourmet burgers and Vietnamese restaurants.

Vegetarian Options

The past few years have witnessed a revolution in healthy dining, with a growing number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants sprouting up around town. Alas, vegetarian options at traditional Czech restaurants seem to be as limited as ever, with the best bet being the ubiquitous (and often excellent) fried cheese (smažený sýr), served with a dollop of cranberry and/or tartar sauce.

YADID LEVY/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Some places charge a small couvert (to cover bread and condiments); this should be clearly marked on the menu.

A A 10% tip is customary but check to see it hasn't already been added to the bill.

A Avoid restaurants directly on Old Town Square and in the most heavily touristed zones – these are invariably mediocre.

Best Fine Dining

V zátiší From high-end Indian cuisine to gourmet versions of traditional Czech dishes.

Kalina A little touch of Gallic sophistication in Staré Město.

Chagall's Understated style, French flair and a warm welcome.

Best Czech Cuisine

Lokál Classic Czech dishes and great beer in a bright, modern beer hall.

Kolkovna A stylish, modern take on the traditional Prague pub.

Cafe Louvre Classic Czech cafe with surprisingly good homemade cooking.

Elegantes Ultra high-end Czech food served in a sophisticated setting.

Best for Vegetarians

Country Life Prague’s first-ever health-food shop is an all-vegan cafeteria.

Lehká Hlava Exotic dining room with an emphasis on fresh preparation.

Maitrea Quality vegetarian and vegan cuisine amid unexpected designer decor.

Best for a Quick Lunch

Cukrkávalimonáda Achingly cute cafe with Renaissance-era painted roof beams.

Mistral Café Possibly the coolest bistro in the Old Town.

Bakeshop Praha A stylish bakery near the Jewish Quarter.

Bakeshop Praha

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Art

The city's holdings of fine art were pilfered over the centuries through wars and occupations, and museums here, while boasting occasional masterworks, lack the depth of galleries in Vienna and Paris. That said, the National Gallery's collections are strong in medieval art, baroque, and early modern surrealist and constructivist trends of the 20th century, when Czech artists came into their own.

The Underappreciated Alfons Mucha

Alfons Mucha (1860–1939) is probably the most famous visual artist to come out of the Czech lands, though because he attained his fame in Paris, and not in Prague, his reputation remains more exalted abroad than at home. Mucha is best known for his posters of French actress Sarah Bernhardt, but he was a prolific artist whose work is featured at St Vitus Cathedral and the Municipal House.

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Art Museums

Veletržní Palác National Gallery’s jaw-dropping collection of art from the 20th- and 21st-centuries.

Šternberg Palace National Gallery’s collection of European art includes works by Goya and Rembrandt.

Mucha Museum Sensuous art nouveau posters, paintings and decorative panels of Alfons Mucha.

Convent of St Agnes Collection of medieval and early Renaissance art is a treasure-house of glowing Gothic altar paintings.

Best Public Art

Miminka (Mummy) Ten creepy babies crawling atop the Žižkov TV Tower, by David Černý.

Proudy David Černý sculpture features two guys relieving themselves into a puddle shaped like the Czech Republic.

Franz Kafka Monument This unusual sculpture has a mini-Franz sitting piggyback on his own headless body.

Cubist Lamp Post The world’s one and only.

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Museums

Prague has tons of museums, big and small, scattered around the city, and they make for great rainy-day options. Most museums cater to specific interests, but alas, many of the collections are of the old-school variety: static objects displayed behind thick glass. The recently refurbished, interactive and loads-of-fun National Technical Museum is a welcome exception and great for kids.

JOHN BORTHWICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Austerity measures have forced museums to cut back on free-admission days and other price reductions, but many places still offer discounted family tickets.

A Most museums restrict photography or levy a painfully high fee for the privilege; flash photography is nearly always banned.

A The Prague City Card (www.praguecitycard.com) offers free or discounted entry to around 50 sights, including many museums. Buy it at Prague City Tourism (www.prague.eu) offices.

Prague Jewish Museum Displays the development of centuries of Jewish life and traditions with exhibitions in around half a dozen surviving synagogues. The highlight of the experience is to walk through the evocative former Jewish cemetery, with its thousands of jagged-edged tombstones.

Karel Zeman Museum Fascinating museum dedicated to a Czech film director who pioneered the art of special effects in movies.

National Technical Museum The Czech Republic's industrial heritage is on riotous display, with interactive exhibits and giant locomotives.

Franz Kafka Museum Hard-core fans will delight in the writer’s original documents and photos.

Miniature Museum A delightfully quirky collection of miniature artwork, including the Lord's Prayer inscribed on a single strand of human hair.

Museum of Decorative Arts A feast for the eyes, full of 16th- to 19th-century artefacts, such as furniture, tapestries, porcelain and glass.

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History

Prague history reads like a long novel, chock full of characters who ride the city's fortunes from the heights of the Holy Roman Empire to the depths of the Eastern bloc (with chills and spills in between). Fortunately, the city was spared mass destruction in WWII, and it's all on full display. From the castle, to the churches, to the corner shop, every building has a story.

Royal Heyday

Modern Prague draws its origins from the 7th century, when Princess Libuše is said to have stood at Vyšehrad Citadel and predicted a great city would someday arise. That great city became reality in the 14th century, when Emperor Charles IV made Prague the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. Religious conflicts between Hussites and Catholics reduced the kingdom to rubble, but another enlightened royal, Habsburg ruler Rudolf II, moved the seat of his vast empire to Prague Castle again in the 16th century. The good times were dashed once more, though, in another bout of religious conflict in the 17th century.

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Czech National Revival

Prague languished under Habsburg occupation through the 17th and 18th centuries, until the forces of industrialisation weakened the grip of the Austrian royal family. Suddenly, there was a new class of educated Czechs agitating for cultural, linguistic and ultimately political freedoms. The Czechs' chance came in 1918, with the end of WWI and the fall of the Habsburg monarchy. That year saw the emergence of a new nation, Czechoslovakia, which did great things in the 1920s...until the Great Depression and Nazi Germany came calling.

The Worst of Times, The Best of Times

Nazi Germany occupied Czechoslovakia in stages in 1938 and '39 in the run-up to WWII. Nazi repression was cruel and most of the country's Jewish population was tragically murdered in the Holocaust, but the city at least was spared wartime destruction. Relief at the end of the war was brief, however, as Czechoslovakia fell into the orbit of Soviet Russia. Communist rule was both brutal and inept (at one point, in 1968, the Soviet Union had to invade its own ally just to keep it in line). The regime collapsed in 1989 as communism fell across Eastern Europe. The 'Velvet Revolution' that year ushered in a new era of democracy.

Best Royal Sights

Vyšehrad Citadel Where it all began – Prague's oldest fortification.

Prague Castle Seat of Czech power for a thousand years.

Astronomical Clock Ancient mechanical marvel that still chimes on the hour.

St Nicholas Church The height of Habsburg-inspired baroque splendour.

Best National Revivial

Municipal House Art nouveau apogee of art and national aspiration.

National Theatre Built to showcase emerging Czech music and drama.

Best for Modern History

National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror Site where seven Czechoslovak partisans took refuge from the Nazis – and met tragic ends – in 1942.

TV Tower Communist power at its most potent.

John Lennon Wall This graffiti-splattered memorial was repainted each time the secret police whitewashed over it.

Astronomical Clock

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

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For Kids

Czechs are very family-oriented, so there are plenty of activities for children around the city. An increasing number of Prague restaurants cater specifically for children, with play areas and so on, and many offer a children’s menu; even if they don’t, they can usually provide smaller portions for a lower price.

Into the Fresh Air

A great outing for kids (and parents) is Prague Zoo, located north of the centre in Troja. In addition, there are several other patches of green around town where you can spread a blanket and let the kids run free, such as Stromovka. Petřín is a beautiful park on a hill where parents and kids alike can take a break from sightseeing, and climb up the Petřín Lookout Tower for terrific views over Prague.

RICHARD NEBESKY/ROBERT HARDING/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Kids up to age 15 normally pay half-price for attractions (under 6 free)

A On public transport, kids from 6 to 15 pay half-price.

Best of the Outdoors

Stromovka Prague’s largest central park, with lots of playgrounds.

Prague Zoo Aside from the animals, attractions include a miniature cable car.

Petřín Funicular Kids will get a thrill riding this funicular up to the top of the hill.

Slav Island Rent a paddle boat and enjoy a ride on the Vltava.

Best Indoor Activities

National Technical Museum A must-stop for inquisitive adolescents and their tech-savvy parents.

Miniature Museum Tiny exhibits and curiosities spark kids’ imaginations at this delightful little museum.

Laterna Magika Kids love the optical illusions onstage during the ‘Black Light’ theatre performances here.

Mořský Svět Prague's 'Sea World', at the Výstaviště exhibition grounds, boasts big aquariums and lots of aquatic life.

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For Free

Once a famously inexpensive destination, Prague is no longer cheap – there's not much on offer without a price attached. That said, in a city as beautiful as Prague, you don't need to spend lots of time (or money) on pricey museums. The parks and gardens, including the hilltop vista from Letná Gardens, are free, as is the street entertainment on Charles Bridge.

Prague Castle Without a Ticket

Admission to the interiors of Prague Castle, including St Vitus Cathedral, is hefty. But many people don't realize that the castle grounds, including the surrounding gardens, are free to roam at your leisure. The highlights of a visit here are the views over Malá Strana and the hourly changing of the guard; the most elaborate show is performed daily at noon.

DE AGOSTINI/C. SAPPA/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Ask at tourist-information offices about free concerts, theatrical performances and cultural events happening during your visit.

A Visits to most churches (except St Vitus Cathedral and St Nicholas Church in Malá Strana) are free.

A Although you'll have to pay for a guided tour of the Municipal House, you can wander through the glorious art nouveau cafe and to the downstairs American Bar without a ticket.

Best Free Sights

Nový Svět Quarter A delightful alternative to Prague Castle’s Golden Lane.

Petřín Hill Entrance to the park is gratis; skip the funicular and just hike up.

Astronomical Clock The hourly chiming is public and free.

Vyšehrad Cemetery The beautiful cemetery is the final resting place for composers Smetana and Dvořák, as well as art nouveau artist Alfons Mucha.

Letná Gardens The sweeping views are free; beers from the beer garden cost extra.

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Architecture

Prague is an open-air museum of architecture; most of the centre is protected as a Unesco World Heritage listing. Prague’s architectural heritage was built up over the centuries, with the earliest buildings in the Romanesque and Gothic styles dating back nearly a thousand years. Later styles like Renaissance, baroque, neoclassical, art nouveau and modern were added over time as fashions changed.

The Style of Bohemian Kings

Romanesque and Gothic are the oldest architectural styles surviving in Prague and are associated with the early centuries of the Bohemian kingdom. Romanesque is identified by rounded facades and massive walls, and is best seen in the handful of circular churches (rotundas) still standing. Gothic is Prague's signature style and is characterised by tall, pointed arches, ribbed vaults, external flying buttresses, and narrow windows. The style flourished in the 14th century during the rule of Charles IV.

Baroque Razzle Dazzle

When the Habsburgs assumed the Bohemian throne in the early 16th century, they invited Italian architects to Prague to help create a royal city worthy of their status. With Renaissance style, the Italians brought a new enthusiasm for classical forms and an obsession with symmetry. Highly ornate baroque, with its marble columns, florid sculpture, and fresco ceilings, came a century later: it was used by the Catholic Church to dazzle – and woo – the sceptical locals.

Arrival of Art Nouveau

The 19th century was comparatively dull. Architects, seemingly, had run out of ideas and consciously imitated historical styles like Gothic and Renaissance, often appending a 'neo' to the front (hence 'neo-Gothic'). Emerging Czech architects associated with the Czech National Revival designed the most important buildings of the time in an impressive (borderline pompous) neo-Renaissance style. By the end of the century, art nouveau, with its emphasis on flowing lines and ornate decoration, blew this pomposity away in an orgy of beauty.

GUILLERMO MURCIA/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A For more on Prague architecture, take a specialised tour such as Thousand Years of Prague Architecture (www.walkingtours.cz).

A Prague: An Architectural Guide is a photographic encyclopaedia by Mark Smith, Michal Schonberg and Radomira Sedlakova.

Best Romanesque & Gothic

Rotunda of St Martin Tiny, circular church in Vyšehrad is reputedly Prague's oldest standing building and a perfect example of Romanesque architecture.

St Vitus Cathedral Gothic to the tips of its famous spires.

Charles Bridge Prague’s most famous bridge is a Gothic landmark.

Best Renaissance & Baroque

St Nicholas Church In Malá Strana, the mother of all baroque churches in Prague.

Loreta The pilgrimage site is modelled after the Italian original.

Best National Revival & Art Nouveau

Municipal House Glittering art nouveau in top form.

Grand Hotel Evropa Fading grandeur at this ornate art nouveau hotel and cafe.

Best Modern Architecture

Dancing Building The shape of the building mimics a dancing couple.

Veletržní Palác This mammoth functionalist structure from the 1920s doesn’t look like your everyday palace.

Dancing Building, Nové Město

RICHARD NEBESKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Shopping

Although the streets are lined with stores, Prague doesn’t initially seem a particularly inspiring shopping destination. But if you know where to look, you can find above-average versions of classic Czech souvenirs: Bohemian crystal and glassware, garnet and amber jewellery, and wooden marionettes. Think outside the box: Czech liquor, farm-produced beauty products and old-school children’s toys all make great gifts.

For mainstream shopping, central Na Příkopě boasts international chains from H&M to Zara. For the most part, you can put your wallet away along Wenceslas Sq (not a bad idea anyway, considering the pickpocketing that goes on here). Instead, explore the Old Town’s winding alleyways. Ritzy Pařížská is often called Prague’s Champs Élysées and is lined with luxury brands like Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Hugo Boss and Ferragamo. Dlouhá, Dušní and surrounding streets house some original fashion boutiques, while even central Celetná contains a worthwhile stop or two.

TRAVEL INK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best for Unique Souvenirs

Botanicus Rustic-chic beauty products from this popular old apothecary.

Manufaktura Specialises in Czech traditional crafts and wooden toys.

Art Deco Galerie Czech antiques galore; hunt for treasures here on a rainy day.

Best for Design & Glass

Modernista Czech cubist and art deco design with cool ceramics, jewellery, posters and books.

Moser Ornate Bohemian glass objects.

Artěl Traditional glass-making meets modern design in this stylish shop in Malá Strana.

Best for Books & Toys

Marionety Truhlář In Malá Strana, quirky shop stocks traditional marionettes from workshops around the Czech Republic.

Shakespeare & Sons More than just a bookshop – a congenial literary hang-out.

Houpací Kůň (Rocking Horse Toy Shop) Shop for high-quality, traditional Czech toys.

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Clubs

No one comes to Prague specifically for cutting-edge clubbing, and the scene pales in comparison to nearby Berlin. While there are plenty of places to go dancing and big-name DJs do occasionally put in an appearance here, Prague is not the place for chasing the latest trends. Instead, it's a destination for letting your hair down and not taking things too seriously.

Musically, dance clubs have a penchant for 1980s and '90s pop; locals reckon the predilection for '80s tunes in particular is a rose-tinted, if slightly ironic, nostalgia for the simpler, more controlled days of communism. Prague also has many basement music clubs, DJ bars and edgy ‘experimental’ venues. If you’re serious about clubbing, do as the locals do and head to Holešovice, where many of the city’s most active nightlife spots are clustered.

ELAN FLEISHER/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Go late. The dance floors are rarely ever populated before midnight.

A There’s usually no dress code – aside from short pants, you can wear what you want.

A Check the clubs’ listings ahead of time to find out about DJ line-ups and themed nights.

Best Upscale Nightclubs

Mecca A slice of Ibiza in the northern Prague suburb of Holešovice.

SaSaZu A ‘superclub’ in Holešovice where international DJs play in a UFO-styled booth.

Radost FX Chilled-out, bohemian atmosphere in Vinohrady, with themed dance parties each night of the week.

Best for Unpretentious Fun

Lucerna Music Bar The venue for weekend '80s- and '90s-themed dance nights.

Techtle Mechtle A popular cellar dance bar on Vinohrady’s main drag.

Hospoda U Buldoka The after-hours dancing gets fast and furious at this crowded Smíchov pub.

x

Best

Live Music

Prague is a great destination for live music, particularly for classical concerts and opera but also for jazz, blues and rock. The classical season runs from September through May, and on nearly any night of the week, you'll have half a dozen options to choose from. Jazz venues tend to focus on local talent, but clubs do occasionally feature big names from abroad.

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Plan ahead and book seats in advance. Big performances sell out.

A Venue websites are a great place to see what's on during your stay. You can buy tickets online.

A Dress up for classical concerts and opera. This is one night to leave the jeans in the hotel room.

Opera & Classical Music

Prague has a long, proud tradition of opera and classical music. In the 18th century, Mozart chose to premiere his opera Don Giovanni here rather than in Vienna, saying 'my Praguers understand me'. In the 19th century, the city was the stomping ground for major European composers like Antonín Dvořák and Bedřich Smetana. These days, the city is home to some lovely old theatres (offering reasonably priced seats).

Jazz

Prague is the city in which former US president Bill Clinton revealed his skill with a saxophone in the 1990s. Czechs figured prominently in European jazz circles from the 1920s until the 1948 communist coup d’état, and even under communism the style survived in some form. Prague’s first professional jazz club, Reduta, opened during the less censorial atmosphere of the 1960s. These days, there are at least half a dozen jazz clubs around, offering nightly performances.

Rock & Pop

Rock has a long tradition of dissent here, going back to the '80s, when underground bands were a bedrock of anticommunism. These days, music is less political but more energetic, and the scene is as fragmented and diverse as anywhere else: the hip-hop, electronic, indie and metal genres are all thriving. Stadium concerts, featuring the likes of Bruce Springsteen and Justin Timberlake, pile through town all summer long.

Best Classical Venues

National Theatre Spectacular venue for traditional opera, drama and ballet.

Prague State Opera Impressive neo-rococo building makes a glorious setting for opera and ballet.

Estates Theatre Oldest theatre in Prague, famed as the place where Mozart conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni in 1787.

Dvořák Hall Home to the world-renowned Czech Philharmonic Orchestra.

Best for Jazz & Blues

Jazz Republic Stages all kinds of live music, including rock and fusion as well as jazz.

AghaRTA Jazz Centrum Hosts gigs by leading international artists.

Blues Sklep Old Town basement provides atmospheric setting for nightly jazz sessions.

Jazz Club U Staré Paní Varied program of modern jazz, soul, blues and Latin rhythms.

Jazz Dock Riverside locale mixes blues with views.

Best Alternative

Malostranská beseda Pleasing mix of old-school Czech rockers and up-and-coming acts.

Palác Akropolis A long-standing Prague institution, host to all kinds of live music.

Cross Club The ultimate in Prague's 'industrial' clubs, packed with mechanical gadgetry.

Roxy The queen of the city's experimental scene, mixing art, music and live performance.

Jazz Club U Staré Paní

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Best

Gay & Lesbian

Prague has a small but lively gay and lesbian scene, with most of the action concentrated in the neighbourhood of Vinohrady, just outside of the centre. Homosexuality is widely tolerated and gay couples are not likely to experience any overt discrimination. The annual Prague Pride march (www.praguepride.cz), usually held in August, is the largest of its kind in Central Europe.

According to one regular, the scene is easygoing. There’s little ‘face control’ or dress codes at the door, and even the top venues usually don’t charge entrance fees. There are also not many problems with rampaging British stag parties, which are fewer in number these days, but which generally stick to the centre in any case. Most gay clubs are welcoming to both gay men and lesbians.

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tips

A Dress neat but casual – as elsewhere in Prague, the dress code is laid-back.

A Although things differ from bar to bar, the scene is mixed between Czechs and foreigners.

A An excellent first stop is Saints, which runs a gay travel and accommodation service and maintains an up-to-date website with an interactive map of the scene.

A A useful website is Gay Guide Prague (http://prague.gayguide.net).

Best Gay Bars & Clubs

Termix Industrial-style bar in Vinohrady with a small but happening dance floor.

Saints British-run gay bar in Vinohrady is laid-back and friendly.

Radost FX Popular, mixed gay and straight dance club with a chilled-out, bohemian atmosphere.

Cafe Celebrity Part of a cluster of gay-friendly places that make up the old Radio Palác building in the heart of Vinohrady.

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A Spring (Apr–Jun) April is the start of the tourist season. Trees bud in mid-April. Accommodation tightens at Easter and for the Prague Spring music festival in May.

A Summer (Jul–Aug) Sunny and occasionally hot. All attractions open.

A Autumn (Sep–Oct) Often sunny but cool. Some attractions close on October 1 for winter.

* Winter (Nov–Mar) Short, dark days, snow and occasionally blustery winds. Tourists descend for lively Christmas and New Year festivities.

Book Your Stay

A Air-conditioning isn't necessary most of the year; the exception is July and August, when Prague is prone to an occasional heatwave.

A Parking can be very tight. If driving, work out parking details with the hotel in advance and avoid hotels in Malá Strana and the Old Town.

A To save money, consider booking a private single or double in a hostel. Many are very nice and offer excellent value.

A If noise is an issue, ask for a room away from the street. Bear in mind that top-floor rooms, below the roof, can be hot and airless in summer.

A You can often find last-minute bargains for the top-end hotels on the standard online booking sites.

A Malá Strana is a particularly scenic location in which to stay, but it's worth considering a room in one of Prague's inner suburbs like Vinohrady, Smíchov or Holešovice, as central Prague is easily reached by public transport.

Useful Websites

Hotels Prague (www.hotelsprague.cz) Listings of the city's best historic hotels and B&Bs.

Guide Prague (www.guideprague.com) Well-run booking site that offers plenty of photos.

Booking.com (www.booking.com) Helps you make reservations at hundreds of Prague hotels.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Author-recommended reviews and online booking.

Best Budget

A Fusion Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %226 222 800; www.fusionhotels.com; Panská 9; dm from 400Kč, d/tr from 2100/2700Kč; iW; j3, 9, 14, 24) It's a hostel, it's a hotel, it's designer heaven…

A Holiday Home ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 512 710; www.holidayhome.cz; Americká 37, Vinohrady; s/d from 1225/1450Kč; pniW; mNáměstí Míru) Popular, family-owned pension in a quiet neighbourhood.

A Mosaic House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %221 595 350; www.mosaichouse.com; Odborů 4; dm/tw from 370/2400Kč; naiW; mKarlovo Náměstí) A blend of four-star hotel and boutique hostel with designer details.

A Czech Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %267 267 600; www.czech-inn.com; Francouzská 76, Vršovice; dm 260-450Kč, s/d 1320/1540Kč, apt from 3100Kč; pniW; j4, 22) Great value and atmosphere in an up-and-coming neighbourhood.

Best Midrange

A Domus Henrici ( GOOGLE MAP ; %220 511 369; www.domus-henrici.cz; Loretánská 11; s/d/ste 3150/3600/4400Kč; iW; j22) Peaceful seclusion just a short stroll from the castle.

A Lokál Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %257 014 800; www.lokalinn.cz; Míšeňská 12; d/ste 3800/4900Kč; nW; j12, 20, 22) Lovely baroque setting with excellent restaurant close to Charles Bridge.

A Hunger Wall Residence ( GOOGLE MAP ; %257 404 040; www.hungerwall.eu; Plaská 8; 2-person apt from 3000Kč; nW; j6, 9, 12, 20) Spotlessly clean and modernised short-stay apartments.

A Dům u velké boty ( GOOGLE MAP ; %257 532 088; www.dumuvelkeboty.cz; Vlašská 30; d/family ste 3150/4000Kč; nW; j12, 20, 22) Lovely old pension set on a quiet square.

Best Top-End

A Golden Well ( GOOGLE MAP ; %257 011 213; www.goldenwell.cz; U Zlaté Studně 4; d/ste from 6850/14,250Kč; pnaiW; mMalostranská) Hotel Historic, luxury hotel in the ultimate location – beneath the castle walls.

A Savic Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 248 555; www.savic.eu; Jilská 7; r from 5200Kč; aiW; mMůstek) Housed in a former monastery, this hotel is bursting with character.

A Icon Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %221 634 100; www.iconhotel.eu; V jámě 6; r from 3800Kč; aiW; j3, 9, 14, 24) Cutting-edge designer hotel that's a hang-out for Prague's beautiful people.

A Le Palais ( GOOGLE MAP ; %234 634 111; www.vi-hotels.com/en/le-palais; U Zvonařky 1, Vinohrady; r from €220, ste from €400; pnaiW; j11 to Bruselská) Luxury hotel housed in a gorgeous belle époque building.

Best Short-Stay Apartments

A Happy House Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; %224 946 890; www.happyhouserentals.com; Jungmannova 30, Nové Město; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Specialises in short- and long-term rental apartments.

A Mary's Travel & Tourist Service ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 254 007; www.marys.cz; Italská 31, Vinohrady; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun; j11) Friendly, efficient agency offering private rooms, hostels, pensions, apartments and hotels in Prague and surrounding areas.

A Prague Apartments (%604 168 756; www.prague-apartment.com) Web-based service with comfortable, IKEA-furnished flats. Availability of apartments shown online.

A Stop City ( GOOGLE MAP ; %222 521 233; www.stopcity.com; Belgická 36, Vinohrady; h10am-8pm; mNáměstí Míru) Specialises in apartments, private rooms and pensions in the city centre, Vinohrady and Žižkov areas.

Arriving in Prague

Václav Havel Airport Prague

This international airport (www.prg.aero) is 17km west of the city centre.

A Cedaz Shuttlebus (www.cedaz.cz) Mini shuttlebuses take travellers to and from the airport to its station near náměstí Republiky. Daily shuttles leave from both locations every 30 minutes between 7.30am and 7pm; one-way tickets cost 150Kč.

A Airport Express (AE) Bus Runs between the airport and Prague's main train station at 30-minute intervals. Service starts at 5am and the last bus leaves around 9.30pm. Buy your ticket from the driver for 60Kč.

A AAA Radio Taxi (www.aaataxi.cz) Prague's most reliable taxi service. To book a taxi inside the airport, look for the AAA desk in the arrivals hall. A ride to náměstí Republiky will cost about 600Kč.

A Bus 119. Catch the city bus from the airport to the closest metro station, Dejvická, on one end of Line A. Standard transport fares apply; the current fare for a 90-minute window of time is adult/concession 32/16Kč. If you're toting sizeable luggage, you'll need to pay an extra 16Kč to bring it on the bus.

Prague Main Train Station

Nearly all international trains arrive at Prague's main station, Praha hlavní nádraží (Prague main train station; GOOGLE MAP ; %840 112 113; www.cd.cz; Wilsonova 8, Nové Město; mHlavní nádraží).

A To Old Town, take metro Line C to Muzeum and change to Line A to Staroměstská station.

A To get to Prague Castle, take metro Line C to Muzeum and change to Line A to Hradčanská station or Malostranská station.

A To get to Wenceslas Sq, just walk 5 minutes (it's two blocks away).

Note that some trains arrive at Prague's other large train station, Praha-Holešovice ( GOOGLE MAP ; %840 112 113; www.cd.cz; Vrbenského, Holešovice), conveniently connected to the Nádraži Holešovice station on the metro's Line C.

Florenc Bus Station

Nearly all international buses use the renovated Florenc bus station (ÚAN Praha Florenc; GOOGLE MAP ; %900 144 444; www.florenc.cz; Křižíkova 2110/2b, Karlín; h4am-midnight, information counter 6am-10pm; W; mFlorenc). The bus station is accessible by both the metro's B and C lines. To get to the Old Town from Florenc, take Line B to Náměstí Republiky. To reach Wenceslas Sq (and Old Town), take Line B to Můstek. At Můstek, you can change to Line A to continue onto Malá Strana or Prague Castle (Malostranská station). Line C goes to the main train station (Praha hlavní nádraží).

Getting Around

Prague has an excellent integrated public-transport system (www.dpp.cz) of metro, trams, buses and night trams, but when you're moving around the compact Old Town or the castle area, it will be more convenient – and scenic – to use your feet. If you're using the metro system, bank on about one or two minutes per metro stop. Times between tram stops are posted at each stop and on www.dpp.cz.

Tickets & Passes

Tickets are interchangeable on all metros, trams and buses. Buy tickets at metro stations or nearby newsstands – but never from the driver. If you're staying longer than a few hours, it's easier to buy a one-day or three-day pass than dealing with individual tickets.

Basic ticket Valid for 90 minutes; adult/concession 32/16Kč

Short-term ticket Valid for 30 minutes; adult/concession 24/12Kč

One-day ticket Valid for 24 hours; adult/concession 110/55Kč

Three-day ticket Valid for 72 hours; 310Kč for all ages

Luggage ticket Necessary for large pieces; 16Kč

Metro

Best for… Quick transportation between major sights, connecting to the train station and venturing outside the tourist areas.

A The metro operates from 5am to midnight.

A There are three lines: Line A (green) runs from Dejvická in the northwest to Depo Hostivař in the east; Line B (yellow) runs from Zličín in the southwest to Ćerný Most in the northeast; and Line C (red) runs from Háje in the southeast to Letňany in the north.

A Services are fast and frequent. You'll find a map in every metro station and metro train. The nearest metro station is noted after the m in listings.

A You must buy a ticket (jízdenka) before boarding, and then validate it by punching it in the little yellow machine in the metro-station lobby or on the bus or tram when you begin your journey. Checks by inspectors are frequent; they'll fine you for travelling without a time-stamped ticket (the fine is reduced if you pay on the spot).

A You'll need coins for ticket machines at metro stations and major tram stops. You can also buy tickets at news-stands, some hotels, tourist-information offices and metro-station ticket offices.

Tram & Bus

Best for… Scenic rides, connecting to attractions far off the metro lines, and for travellers who can't easily walk from point A to B. Most visitors won't have any reason to get on a bus, but a tram ride is a classic Prague experience.

A Important tram lines to remember are 22 (runs to Prague Castle, Malá Strana and Charles Bridge), 17 and 18 (run to the Jewish Quarter and Old Town Sq) and 11 (runs to Žižkov and Vinohrady).

A Regular tram and bus services operate from 5am to midnight (see www.dpp.cz for maps and timetables). After this, night trams (51 to 58) and buses (501 to 512) still rumble across the city about every 40 minutes.

A Night trams intersect at Lazarská in Nové Město. If you're planning a late evening, find out if one of these services passes near where you're staying.

A Be aware that few tram or bus stops sell tickets. So if you're using single tickets, buy several in the metro station or at newspaper stands, then save a couple of unstamped ones for later and validate them upon boarding.

Taxi

Best for… Late-night rides back to the hotel, airport transfers, and when you're running late for a show at the National Theatre.

A For years, Prague's taxi drivers were renowned for scams – huge fines and crackdowns have made a big difference, however. Most drivers now turn on their meters when picking up a fare, as legally required. If a driver won't comply, find another taxi.

A Look for the 'Taxi Fair Place' scheme, which provides authorised taxis in key tourist areas. Drivers can charge a maximum fare and must announce the estimated price in advance.

A Away from official 'Taxi Fair Place' stands, the streets around Wenceslas Sq, Národní třída, Na Příkopě, Praha hlavní nádraží, Old Town Sq and Malostranské náměstí are the most notorious rip-off spots. Make sure to ask the fare in advance to avoid being taken for a ride (so to speak).

A Within the city centre, trips should be around 150Kč to 200Kč, a trip to the suburbs no more than 450Kč, and to the airport around 600Kč to 700Kč.

In our experience, the following radio-taxi services are all reliable and honest:

AAA Radio Taxi (%14014, 222 333 222; www.aaataxi.cz)

Halo Taxi (%244 114 411; www.halotaxi.cz)

ProfiTaxi (%14015; www.profitaxi.cz)

Bicycle

Best for… Sightseeing and green travellers.

Despite cobblestones, hills and gigantic tour buses, in recent years Prague has become more bike friendly. For rentals, try these outfitters (except in winter, when they're closed):

Praha Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %732 388 880; www.prahabike.cz; Dlouhá 24, Staré Město; rental per day 550Kč, tours per person starting at 540Kč; h9am-8pm; mNáměstí Republiky) Rentals and guided tours in the Old Town. Has tandem bikes and will deliver your rental for an extra fee.

City Bike Prague ( GOOGLE MAP ; %776 180 284; www.citybike-prague.com; Králodvorská 5, Staré Město; rental per day 500Kč, tours per person 550-800Kč; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct; mNáměstí Republiky) Also in the Old Town, City Bike has a great selection of wheels.

Biko Adventures Prague ( GOOGLE MAP ; %733 750 990; www.bikoadventures.com; Vratislavova 3, Nové Město; standard rental per day 450Kč, group tours per person from 1250Kč; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct; j7, 17 to Výtoň) Rents bikes and offers day-long guided cycling trips for riders of all levels.

Essential Information

Business Hours

Top Tip Avid shoppers should note that local stores (those not specifically geared to tourists) often close on Sunday.

Banks 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday

Bars 11am to midnight or later

Main post office (Jindřišská 14, Nové Město) 2am to midnight

Shops 8.30am to 8pm Monday to Friday, to 6pm Saturday and Sunday

Restaurants 10am to 11pm, though kitchens often close by 10pm

Electricity

Emergency

EU-wide emergency hotline (%112)

Fire (%150)

Municipal Police (%156)

State Police (%158)

Money

Tipping

Tip 10% of the tab in restaurants or bars to reward good service, though look carefully to see that the tip hasn't already been added (an annoying practice you might find at touristy places). Taxi drivers won't expect a tip, but you can round up a few crowns if the driver has been helpful.

Top Tip Watch for rip-offs at private exchange booths. These often lure tourists with attractive-looking exchange rates, which turn out to be only available when changing large sums.

A Credit cards are widely accepted.

A The Czech crown (Koruna česká, or Kč) is divided into 100 hellers (h), though these tiny coins no longer circulate. Prices are sometimes denominated in fractions of crowns. In these instances, the total is rounded to the nearest whole crown.

A Keep small change handy for public toilets and tram-ticket machines, and always try to keep some small notes for shops, cafes and bars.

Money-Saving Tips

A Forget taxis – take a shuttle bus from the airport to the city, then walk or use public transport.

A Skip the sushi and eat Czech food; you'll find the best value for your crowns in pubs. Look for set-lunch specials.

A At restaurants, portions are large and normally come with sides, so you can skip the starters. Local beer is much cheaper than wine (and delicious).

A Don't exchange cash at the airport. Instead, withdraw local currency with your ATM card.

A Don't worry about missing museums if cash is tight – Prague is best explored outdoors and on foot.

A When going to the theatre, you can get cheaper tickets for around 100Kč.

Public Holidays

Banks, offices, department stores and some shops will be closed on public holidays. Restaurants, museums and tourist attractions tend to stay open.

New Year's Day 1 January

Easter Monday March/April

Labour Day 1 May

Liberation Day 8 May

Sts Cyril & Methodius Day 5 July

Jan Hus Day 6 July

Czech Statehood Day 28 September

Republic Day 28 October

Struggle for Freedom & Democracy Day 17 November

Christmas Eve (Generous Day) 24 December

Christmas Day 25 December

St Stephen's Day 26 December

Safe Travel

Prague is a low-crime city and you're not likely to experience serious problems. Pickpocketing and petty theft, however, remain rife, especially around the main tourist attractions. Keep valuables well out of reach and be alert in crowds and on public transport. If you are the victim of a pickpocket, report the crime as soon as possible at any nearby police station. Remember to retain any paperwork you might need for insurance purposes.

For lost or stolen passports, embassies can normally issue travel documents on the spot.

Telephone

Top Tip If your mobile or cellphone is unlocked, you can buy a prepaid SIM card, available from any mobile-phone shop for around 450Kč (including 300Kč of calling credit), to make local calls at cheaper local rates (though you can’t use your existing mobile number).

A The Czech Republic uses GSM 900, compatible with mobile phones from the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand (but not with North American or Japanese phones).

A Some North Americans, however, have dual-band GSM 1900/900 phones that do work here; check with your service provider.

Country & City Codes

The country code for the Czech Republic is 420; there are no area codes inside the country.

All phone numbers have nine digits, which must be always dialled whether calling next door or a distant town. All landline numbers in Prague begin with a 2; mobile numbers begin with a 6 or 7.

Using Your Smartphone

If you plan on using a 'smartphone' like an iPhone or Android device, it's best to contact your home provider to consider short-term international calling and data plans appropriate to what you might need.

Smartphones can still be used as handy wi-fi devices, even without a special plan. Be sure to switch your phone to 'airplane' mode on arrival, which blocks out calls and text messages. Also, turn off your phone's 'data roaming' setting to avoid unwanted roaming fees.

Tourist Information

The official provider of tourist information is Prague City Tourism (formerly Prague Welcome). Their offices are good sources of maps and general information, as well as an excellent resource for finding what's on during your stay. The main website (www.prague.eu) has extensive information in English.

Prague City Tourism – Airport (Prague Welcome; GOOGLE MAP ; %221 714 714; www.prague.eu; Terminal 2, Václav Havel Airport Prague; h8am-8pm; g100, 119)

Prague City Tourism – Rytírská (Prague Welcome; GOOGLE MAP ; %221 714 444; www.prague.eu; Rytírská 31, Staré Město; h10am-6pm; mMůstek)

Prague City Tourism – Malá Strana (Prague Welcome; GOOGLE MAP ; %221 714 714; www.prague.eu; Malá Strana Bridge Tower, Mostecká, Malá Strana; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct; j12, 20, 22)

Prague City Tourism – Old Town Hall (Prague Welcome; GOOGLE MAP ; %221 714 444; www.prague.eu; Old Town Hall, Staroměstské náměstí 5; h9am-7pm; mStaroměstská)

Language

Behind the Scenes

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Mark's Thanks

I would like to thank my friends here in Prague for constantly suggesting great places for inclusion in this guide. Kateřina Pavlitová, marketing director at Prague City Tourism, was always willing to help out with information and enthusiasm. Lonely Planet Prague author Neil Wilson helped to find many of the great restaurants and bars included here.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Church of Our Lady Before Týn, Old Town Square, Francesco Iacobelli/AWL.

This Book

This 4th edition of Pocket Prague was written by Mark Baker. The previous edition was written by Bridget Gleeson. This book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Destination Editors Joe Bindloss, Gemma Graham

Product Editor Martine Power

Senior Cartographers Mark Griffi ths, Valentina Kremenchutskaya

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Thanks to Imogen Bannister, Sasha Baskett, Elin Berglund, Brendan Dempsey, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson, Tasmin Waby, Lauren Wellicome, Juan Winata

Ebook thanks to Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Mark Baker

Prague resident Mark Baker first moved to the city in the early 1990s and has lived there, off and on, the better part of 20 years. He was a founder and co-owner of the Globe Bookstore & Café in Prague, and has worked as a journalist for the Economist Group, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty. In 2008 he began writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet. In addition to this edition of

Pocket Prague, he’s authored Lonely Planet’s Prague & the Czech Republic, as well as Lonely Planet guides to Romania & Bulgaria, Poland, Slovenia and the Baltic countries.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

4 edition - June 2015

ISBN 9781743602386

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

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