Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Kuala Lumpur

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Kuala Lumpur Neighbourhoods

Explore

Golden Triangle

Pudu

Petronas Towers & KLCC

Chinatown & Merdeka Square

Masjid India, Chow Kit & Kampung Baru

Batu Caves

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia

Ampang Amble

Lake Gardens & Brickfields

Thean Hou Temple

Boutique-Hopping in Bangsar Baru

Best

The Best of Kuala Lumpur

A Stroll Through Kampung Baru

Chinatown Architecture Ramble

Street Food & Food Courts

Bars & Cafes

Shopping

With Kids

For Free

Clubs & Entertainment

Religious & Heritage Buildings

Green Spaces

Museums & Galleries

Spas & Wellness

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Kuala Lumpur

Getting Around

Essential Information

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Kuala Lumpur

Glitzy malls rub shoulders with street markets, gleaming skyscrapers loom over colonial buildings, and world-class restaurants vie for patronage with bustling open-air satay stands: Kuala Lumpur may be racing toward the future, but its rich cultural heritage refuses to be left behind. From steaming bowls of asam laksa to sinfully sweet morsels of kueh, the very best part is its legendary food.

Petaling Street Market

LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

1

Kuala Lumpur

Top Sights

Petronas Towers

It’s impossible to resist the magnetic allure of these 452m-high structures, embodiment of Malaysia’s transformation into a modern nation. The views both from and of the towers are equally riveting.

TOMATOSKIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

Better known as the Lake Gardens, this is KL's major green space, with a day's worth of sights including botanical gardens, a bird park and a host of surrounding museums and colonial architecture.

RICHARD WAREHAM BOTANISCH/ALAMY ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Merdeka Square

There is nowhere better in KL to soak up its British colonial past, including its Mughal-inspired architecture, than around this former cricket green which first saw the raising of the Malaysian flag in 1957.

TOM BONAVENTURE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Islamic Arts Museum

This terrific museum highlights the diversity of art – from miniature painting to interior design – and the richness of regional variation in the Islamic world: from the Middle East, through China, India and Southeast Asia.

WISKERKE/ALAMY ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Batu Caves

In these soaring limestone caves – the country's top Hindu pilgrimage site – intricate geological formations compete for your attention with colourful shrines and psychedelic dioramas.

AN KEE PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Menara KL

Rival to the Petronas Towers for glorious city views, this 421m-high telecommunications tower is best approached through the jungle trails (and canopy walk) of Bukit Nanas.

LAURIE NOBLEW/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM)

A natural escape from KL’s urban grind, this 600-hectare forest reserve sports hiking trails, a 200m-long canopy walkway and quiet lanes for leisurely biking.

ANDERS BLOMQVIST/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Royal Museum

The home of Malaysia's king until 2011, this grand sprawling mansion was built in 1928 by a Chinese tin tycoon to house his numerous children (and wives).

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Kuala Lumpur Top Sights

Thean Hou Temple

The glorious sunsets over the city, and the devotional atmosphere during Chinese festival times, draw visitors to this massive, fantastically gaudy Chinese temple atop Robson Hill.

WEKWEK/GETTY IMAGES ©

l

Kuala Lumpur

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Kuala Lumpur

Getting local in KL's diverse neighborhoods isn't just about tucking into hawker food under the gaze of the Petronas Towers (though this is great fun, by the way). Almost everyone can find their tribe in this city, from mall rats to old-school foodies, street photographers and aficionados of third-wave coffee.

Ampang Amble

A Leafy neighbourhoods

A Food

This diverse neighbourhood of ethnic villages bumping up against whitewashed embassies boasts a number of treats. You can stroll KL's loveliest tree-lined lanes with early-morning joggers, make batik in an outdoor workshop, and, in season (if you're very game), try an all-you-can-eat durian feast.

Pudu

A Street food

A Urban exploration

Hankering for the flavours of Chinatown without the crowds? Visit this laid-back Chinese neighbourhood, with some of KL's most charming pockets of shophouses and crowd-pleasing street eats. The sprawling Pudu wet market is the city's largest.

A Taste of the Golden Triangle

A Street food

A Bars

More than anything else, the search for the next great meal makes this city tick. Street food is everyone's obsession, but in this area of town you can also observe how the experience has been moved indoors without compromising on atmosphere (much).

Boutique-Hopping in Bangsar Baru

A Shopping

A Restaurants

Come for the shopping, stay for the food. Or do the reverse in this buzzing suburban enclave brimming with trendy cafes, a diverse selection of restaurants, and cool boutiques run by up-and-coming local designers.

Little India

WEKWEK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Food stall in Bangsar Baru

KEVIN LANG/ALAMY ©

Other great places to experience the city like a local:

Multicultural Markets

Coffee Stain by Joseph

Chetty Street

KL Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine

Chin Woo Stadium

Sri Sakthi Vinayagar Temple

Little India's Street Food

Buddhist Maha Vihara

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen

Outdoor Eating in Chinatown

R

Kuala Lumpur

Day Planner

Day One

M Begin at Merdeka Square to see where the Malaysian flag was first raised in 1957. Eclectic colonial architecture surrounds the square, from the Mughal-inspired Masjid Jamek and Sultan Abdul Samad Building to the Tudor-style Royal Selangor Club. The KL City Gallery provides a great insight into the city's history and architecture.

R Head to Chinatown for lunch: good choices include Peter Hoe Beyond Cafe, Old China Café or LOKL. If you need a caffeine boost, Moontree House is around the corner from the Old China Café. Stay on to explore the neighbourhood's temples and heritage shophouses, as well as the Central Market, with its excellent souvenir and antique shopping, and knockout Museum of Ethnic Arts. A roti canai at the adjacent Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir will revive flagging spirits.

N In the evening visit the Petronas Towers (pre-book online) for mesmerising sunset views. Afterwards stroll KLCC Park and see the towers gleam against the night sky, then finish on a high note at the Troika complex for dinner, drinks and even more killer views.

Day Two

M Start with a morning stroll in Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park, the city's largest green oasis. Spend some time with hornbills at the wonderful KL Bird Park, then smell the flowers at the Botanical Garden.

R Lunch at the Hornbill Restaurant, or head down to the Colonial Cafe, located in the handsome Majestic Hotel, with its menu of Hainanese cuisine beloved by KL's colonial rulers. After lunch, marvel at the Old KL Train Station and Masjid Negara, the national mosque, before hitting the museums, including the must-see Islamic Arts Museum and the National Museum – the walk between the two is lovely along Lake Perdana – as well as the quirky Royal Malaysia Police Museum.

N For dinner take a taxi to hip Jln Mesui or Changkit Bukit Bintang for fine Malay cuisine at Bijan or more homely Nonya fare at Lima Blas. There's no need to travel afterwards for fun: there are plenty of bars, clubs and live-music venues in the surrounding streets, such as Taps Beer Bar and Frangipani.

Day Three

M Try a traditional breakfast at Imbi Market, then grab some snacks for the road and take the train or taxi to the Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia. Explore the enchanting woods (perhaps by bike), see traditional wooden houses and take the canopy walk high above the jungle floor.

R Next stop: Batu Caves. Nosh on veggie dosa at Rani Vila Restoran when you arrive, then climb the 272 stairs to the Main Cave, take the Dark Cave tour, and explore the surrealistic Ramayana Cave. Head back to the city via Lake Titiwangsa for postcard-perfect pics of KL, then pop into the National Visual Art Gallery for a lesson in contemporary Malaysian art.

N For dinner head to Sentul West and wander the very photogenic old railway depot. Dine by candlelight at the lake and perhaps take in a show at the Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre. Still got some energy left? Move on to Zouk to dance the night away.

Day Four

M After breakfast in Chinatown, head to the sprawling Royal Museum, the Malaysian king's former home. Then take a taxi to Brickfields, passing through KL's largest Chinese cemetery. In Brickfields visit the Hindu temples; check their Facebook pages, including www.facebook.com/SriKandaswamyTemple, to see if any festivals are happening.

R  Fuel up on tandoori chicken and the city's best dhal makhani at Jassal Tandoori Restaurant before walking up Bukit Nanas through the KL Forest Eco Park to Menara KL. Then stroll down to Bukit Bintang and pop into upscale food court Lot 10 Hutong for a street-food snack...indoors. If you need it, or simply want it, indulge in a massage at Donna Spa on Starhill Gallery's Pamper Floor.

N Plan on eating outdoors tonight. If it's a Tuesday, Thursday or Sunday, consider joining a walking tour of Kampung Baru, a village in the heart of the city; there are plenty of good dinner options here. Otherwise, go for Chinese at Hakka; Chinese, Malay and Thai on Jalan Alor; or hawkers' specialities at Keong Kee.

Need to Know

Currency

Malaysian Ringgit (RM)

Language

English

Bahasa Malaysia

Visas

Generally not required for stays up to 90 days.

Money

ATMs widely available, but complex local rules sometimes impose low daily limits or reject foreign cards. Credit cards widely accepted in shops, hotels and midrange and top-end restaurants.

Mobile Phones

Malaysia is on a GSM and 3G and 4G network. Local SIM cards work on most phones and can be purchased at the airport

Time

MYT (Malaysia Time; UTC/GMT plus eight hours)

Plugs & Adaptors

Plugs have three square pins; electrical current is 220/230V. Most visitors will require an adaptor and possibly a transformer.

Tipping

Small change on bill often left at restaurants. Tipping for extra service from hotel porters and taxi drivers is common and appreciated.

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than RM150

A Dorm beds RM30–45

A Hawker stalls or food courts for meals RM6–12

A Visit one pricier big sight every two days

Midrange RM150–400

A Double room in flashpacker boutique hotel RM120–200

A Visit big-hitter sights by tour bus to avoid taxi hassles

A Meal with two beers at local ethnic restaurants RM40–60

Top End more than RM400

A Double room at colonial-era mansion from RM600

A Fine dining on ethnic or Western cuisine RM350 plus

A Cocktails at a rooftop bar

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/kuala-lumpur) Destination information, hotel booking, traveller forum and more.

Visit KL (www.klcitygallery.com) Good tourist authority website.

TimeOut Kuala Lumpur (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur) Excellent insider coverage of local life, attractions, street food, restaurants and bars.

Malaysian Insider (www.themalaysianinsider.com) A non-censored online-only news outlet for the scoop on politics and culture.

Advance Planning

Three months before Book hotel if coming in summer months or during one of the many public holidays.

One month before Buy tropical-weather clothing and mosquito repellent. Check Pusaka and tourism and temple websites for festivals.

One week before Book a ticket online for the Petronas Towers, and make reservations for top-end restaurants or bars.

2Arriving in Kuala Lumpur

3Getting Around

KL's public transport can usually get you to the general area you want to go. From there walking or taking a taxi is best. The tourist buses are also very handy.

J Tourist Bus

KL Hop-On Hop-Off buses (www.myhoponhopoff.com) stop at all major attractions, malls and hotels in the city. Buses run frequently, and day and multiday passes are available. The buses are one of the most popular, hassle-free ways to see the sights, though between 4pm and 6pm they are very crowded.

L LRT, Komuter Train & Monorail

Together these three systems form a decent network for getting around the city, though they aren't well integrated at the stations they share. The monorail (www.myrapid.com.my) runs through the heart of the city and connects many of the top tourist sites and areas. The LRT (Light Rapid Transit; www.myrapid.com.my), KL's metro, is good for trips into the suburbs, while the KTM Komuter Train (www.ktmkomuter.com.my) will whisk you out to Batu Caves and close to FRIM.

K Taxi

Taxis are cheap and ubiquitous except when it rains. However, drivers have a bad reputation and in tourist areas overcharging is rife: use a taxi booking smartphone app such as MyTeksi. Most shopping malls also have a taxi stand for safe hassle-free bookings.

Kuala Lumpur Neighbourhoods

Golden Triangle

Petronas Towers & KLCC

Chinatown & Merdeka Square

Masjid India, Chow Kit & Kampung Baru

Lake Gardens & Brickfields

Golden Triangle

TSAI PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY ©

The financial and commercial heart of KL is not just high-rises, shopping malls and construction sites. There's plenty of street life – and, most importantly, street eating – and as you head west, small and personalised venues take over. The alfresco dining on Jln Alor and the frenetic bar scene on Changkit Bukit Bintang – and its hipper cousin Jln Mesui – attract big crowds nightly.

The Sights in a Day

M Begin with a swing through Imbi Market, snacking and snapping pics to your heart's content. If you wake late the specialty coffees and sandwiches at Feeka will get you going. Afterwards, grab a taxi to Bukit Bintang. Start at Starhill Culinary Studio, with a class on local cooking, followed by an indulgence at Donna Spa or tea at Luk Yu.

R For lunch move down the block to the indoor hawker paradise at Lot 10 Hutong. If you are in the mood for shopping, there's youth fashion at Fahrenheit88, endless electronics at Plaza Low Yat, and a wide selection of local and international brands at Pavilion KL. At Royal Selangor browse the gorgeous pewterware and learn some city history.

N Now head west and begin your evening with tapas and a beer at Pisco Bar. Move on to dinner at Lima Blas or nearby Frangipani. Afterwards, look for live music at No Black Tie, craft beers at Taps Beer Bar, or a rowdy good time at one of the many drinking venues along Changkat Bukit Bintang.

l  Local Life

A Taste of the Golden Triangle

x  Best of Kuala Lumpur

Clubs & Entertainment

No Black Tie

Blueboy Discotheque

Frangipani

Bars & Cafes

Pisco Bar

Taps Beer Bar

Feeka Coffee Roasters

Green Man

Frangipani

Street Food & Food Courts

Jalan Alor

Lot 10 Hutong

Food Republic

Spas & Wellness

Kenko

Donna Spa

Getting There

Monorail Bukit Bintang station is in the heart of the district.

g Bus KL Hop-On Hop-Off buses link the Golden Triangle with other tourist areas and sights in KL.

Walking The area is compact and easy to walk from one end to the other.

l

Local Life

A Taste of the Golden Triangle

Street food is everywhere in the Golden Triangle, though in KL locals accept it neither has to be prepared nor consumed outdoors. Given the city's obsession with malls and air-conditioning, many hawker stalls have moved indoors, though if you want it old-school this area still shines.

1 Breakfast at Imbi Market

Breakfast is a cheerful affair in the courtyard of this walled traditional market (Pasar Baru Bukit Bintang; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kampung; dishes RM5-10; h6.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun; u). Time-tested stalls include Sisters Crispy Popiah for wraps; Teluk Intan Chee Cheung Fun for oyster-and-peanut congee and egg pudding; and Ah Weng Koh Hainan Tea for coffee or tea (or both together in its special drink).

2 Jalan Melati & Jalan Utara

Walk around Jln Melati and Jln Utara for glimpses into the casual outdoor life that still dominates even in neighbourhoods bordering KL's newly developing financial district. Where there's a spreading tree it seems you'll find a food stall, a few plastic chairs and happy relaxed customers. These streets also have pre-war houses to admire.

3 Restoran Win Heng Seng

Often hawkers congregate in a single streetside food court such as at Restoran Win Heng Seng ( GOOGLE MAP ; 183 Jln Imbi; dishes RM5-10), which rivals Imbi Market as a popular place for a local breakfast. Try the pork ball noodles or the char kway teow (fried noodles in a dark soy sauce).

4 Lot 10 Hutong

Lot 10 Hutong ( GOOGLE MAP ; Basement, Lot 10, 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; dishes RM9-18; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang) was the first KL mall to encourage top hawkers to open branches in a basement food court. The well-designed space has pulled in names such as Soong Kee, which has served beef noodles since 1945. Look also for oyster omelettes at Kong Tai, Cantonese porridge at Hon Kee and hokkien mee at Kim Lian Kee.

5 Bintang Walk

This short strip of prime real estate is tops for people-watching. Al-amar Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.al-amar.com; 179 Jln Bukit Bintang; dishes RM8-25; h8am-3am; Bukit Bintang), a glass-encased streetside restaurant, is a great place to take it all in with a Turkish coffee.

6 Jalan Alor

KL's biggest collection of roadside restaurants sprawls along Jalan Alor ( GOOGLE MAP ; h5pm-late; to Bukit Bintang). From around 5pm till late every evening, the street transforms into a continuous open-air venue. Most places serve alcohol and you can sample pretty much every Malay-Chinese dish imaginable. In the afternoon you can pick up a fortifying fresh coconut or sugar-cane drink and watch the preparation for the nightly feast.

7 Tengkat Tong Shin

Here's another short street loaded with restaurants and hawker stalls. Among the most celebrated is the nothing-to-look-at Ngau Kee ( GOOGLE MAP ; Tengkat Tong Shin; noodles RM8-9; h5pm-4am; Bukit Bintang) at the end of the street, which serves a variety of beef noodle soups. If you aren't hungry, Tengkat Tong Shin's art-deco and eclectic-style pre-war shophouses are worth a look-in.

8 Changkat Bukit Bintang & Jalan Mesui

The last two blocks of Changkat Bukit Bintang support an ever-growing number of bars that offer everything from a lounge for contemplating single malt whisky, to a corner den for cheap draught and pub quizzes. Around the corner, the cafes and bars on Jln Mesui cater to a younger local crowd.

1 Sights

Starhill Culinary Studio  G3

1Kenko  G2

Donna Spa  G3

5 Eating

2Lima Blas  C2

3Hakka  F1

4Feeka Coffee Roasters  C2

5Sao Nam  B4

6Din Tai Fung  G2

7Al-Amar Lebanese Cuisine  F2

8Woods Macrobiotics  C5

Bijan  A2

9Nerovivo  A2

10Frangipani  B3

6 Drinking

11Pisco Bar  C2

Frangipani  B3

12Taps Beer Bar  C2

13Whisky Bar Kuala Lumpur  C3

14Village Bar  G3

15Blueboy Discotheque  E3

16Albion KL  C3

17Green Man  B3

18Starhill Tea Salon  G3

19Luk Yu Tea House  G3

3 Entertainment

20No Black Tie  C2

21GSC Pavilion KL  F2

7 Shopping

22Royal Selangor  G2

23Starhill Gallery  G3

24Pavilion KL  G2

25Fahrenheit88  F3

26Plaza Low Yat  D5

27Khoon Hooi  G3

Sights

1Starhill Culinary StudioCOOKING COURSE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Sign up for a two- to three-hour class (focusing on a single dish usually) and you'll not only get top instruction in this gleaming, well-designed culinary art studio, but you'll also be well fed. Classes vary daily and include Malay and Nonya dishes, Japanese cuisine, and Asian and Western desserts. Private classes can also be arranged.

(%2782 3810; www.starhillculinarystudio.com; Starhill Gallery, Muse Floor, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; public classes RM68-258 Tue-Sun; hTue-Sun; 9am-6pm; Bukit Bintang)

1KenkoSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This popular branch of the Singapore-based reflexology and massage chain offers a variety of partial and full-body massage and acupressure therapies. Its popular and very hygienic fish spa starts at RM38 should you wish skin to be nibbled off your tootsies.

(%2141 6651; www.kenko.com.sg; Level 5, Pavilion KL, 169 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

1Donna SpaSPA

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This Balinese-style spa is one of the most popular on the well-named Pamper Floor of the slick Starhill Gallery mall. Massages start at around RM200 and full spa packages including wraps and scrubs at RM420.

(%2141 8999; www.donnaspa.net; Pamper fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-midnight; Bukit Bintang)

l

Local Life

Jalan Alor Outdoor Eating

Restaurants on Jln Alor serve a variety of Malay, Chinese and Southeast Asian staples. Try Wong Ah Wah ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Alor; small dishes RM10-15; h4pm-4am), justly famous for its seriously addictive chicken wings (RM3 per wing), or just up the street go for fiery Sichuan at Kedai Makanan Dan Minuman TKS ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Alor; small mains RM15-35; h5pm-4am; Bukit Bintang).

y

Top Tip

Santouka

There are tens of thousands of Japanese living in KL (it's a popular business and retirement destination) and, not surprisingly, varied and quality Japanese food is readily available. At Pavilion KL mall's Tokyo Street (Level 6) slurp tasty ramen noodles at Santouka ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2143 8878; www.santouka.co.jp; Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; ramen set from RM26; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang), an outlet of a famous ramen stall originating from the island of Hokkaido.

y

Top Tip

Street Food...Indoors

Don't like the grease and smells of street-food venues, but still want to try some of the great hawker food locals keep raving about? Shopping-mall food courts offer an innovative, hygienic, air-conditioned way to get what you want. Food Republic ( GOOGLE MAP ; Level 1, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; meals RM10-20; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang) has an outstanding range of choices in slick surroundings. Lot 10 Hutong, the first to bring famous hawker stalls indoors, offers everything from oyster omelets to beef ball noodles to Chinese herbal drinks.

Eating

5Lima BlasCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Set in an old shophouse with a bric-a-brac design that channels old Malaysia to a hip tee, this is a top spot for a casual night out of exotic food. Try the Nonya fried chicken, eggplant in sambal sauce and the sago gula melaka (sago pearls in a brown sugar sauce). A few small dishes are enough for two.

(%2110 1289; www.facebook.com/pages/Lima-Blas/576054345757434; 15 Jln Mesui; dishes (small size) RM15-18; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat; W; Raja Chulan)

5HakkaCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This big, long-running alfresco restaurant specialises in Hakka-style Chinese cuisine. There's lots of overpriced seasonal seafood here, but the pork and chicken dishes are reasonably priced and absolutely delicious. Try the Hakka staple of stewed pork belly on mustard greens for melt-in-the-mouth fatty goodness. The stuffed crab and tofu dishes are also excellent.

(%2143 1908; 90 Jln Raja Chulan; dishes RM18-40; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm; Raja Chulan)

5Feeka Coffee RoastersCAFE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Set in a minimally remodelled shophouse on hip Jln Mesui, this new kid on the block has quickly become popular as both the coffee (choose from microlot beans or espresso-based drinks) and the food (from omelettes to pulled-pork sandwiches) deliver. With indoor seating lit by the traditional skywell, and a lovely tree-shaded patio area, this is a place to linger.

(www.facebook.com/feeka.coffeeroasters; 19 Jln Mesui; dishes RM15-25; h10am-10pm; W; Bukit Bintang)

5Sao NamVIETNAMESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This reliable place is decorated with colourful communist propaganda posters and has a courtyard for dining outside. The kitchen turns out huge plates of delicious Vietnamese food, garnished with basil, mint, lettuce and sweet dips. The starter banh xeo (a huge Vietnamese pancake with meat, seafood or vegetables) is a meal in itself.

(%2144 1225; www.saonam.com.my; 25 Tengkat Tong Shin; mains RM30-70; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun; Bukit Bintang)

5Din Tai FungCHINESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of Taiwan's most famous culinary exports is this Shanghai-style restaurant (part of a worldwide chain) that serves, with almost magical consistency, near perfect xiao long bao (steamed dumplings; six pieces from RM11). Also worth trying is the fried pumpkin and the drunken chicken. The restaurant is at the far back of the 6th floor of Pavilion shopping mall.

(http://dintaifungmalaysia.com; Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM11-18; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

5Al-Amar Lebanese CuisineLEBANESE $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

There's no shortage of restaurants in Bukit Bintang serving Middle Eastern food but few are as consistently good as Al-Amar. Choose from a tasty range of meze and grilled meats or go simple with a shawarma sandwich. There's belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights starting at 9pm or 10pm and a Sunday lunch buffet (RM80).

(%2166 1011; www.al-amar.com; Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; mains RM22-56; hnoon-midnight; Bukit Bintang)

5Woods MacrobioticsVEGETARIAN $$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

An air of calm hangs over this worthy operation that ticks all the organic, vegan and wholefood boxes. Even its brownies are organic. It also sells groceries.

(Woods Bio Marche; %2143 1636; www.macrobiotics-malaysia.com; 28 Jln Bukit Bintang; set meals RM23; h11am-9.30pm; v; Bukit Bintang)

5BijanMALAYSIAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

One of KL’s best Malaysian restaurants, Bijan offers skilfully cooked traditional dishes in a sophisticated dining room that spills out into a tropical garden. Must-try dishes include rendang daging (dry beef curry with lemongrass), masak lemak ikan (Penang-style fish curry with turmeric) and ikan panggang (grilled skate with tamarind).

(%2031 3575; www.bijanrestaurant.com; 3 Jln Ceylon; mains RM30-90; h4.30-11pm; Raja Chulan)

5NerovivoITALIAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

This long-standing Italian joint is still in top form. Enjoy a range of solid appetisers, pastas, risottos and, of course, pizzas at this chic, partly open-air restaurant.

(%2070 3120; www.nerovivo.com; 3A Jln Ceylon; mains RM36-79; hnoon-3pm & 6-11.30pm Sun-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat; Raja Chulan)

5FrangipaniMEDITERRANEAN $$$

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Mediterranean flavours predominate in this classy stalwart of the KL dining and party scene. The deck bar at the front opens from 6pm and serves a tapas menu. Reservations are recommended.

(%2144 3001; www.frangipani.com.my; 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang; mains RM60-120; h7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W; Raja Chulan)

Nasi kerabu (blue rice with fried chicken)

YU LIANG WONG/ALAMY ©

y

Top Tip

Healthy Options

Malaysian food is undoubtedly delicious but eating three (or more) meals a day of it can take its toll on one's waistline. When you need it, or just want it, there are some genuinely health-conscious restaurants serving organic and wholefood options. In the Golden Triangle try Woods Macrobiotics for organic box sets, and Feeka for fresh burgers and sandwiches. In KLCC head to the wholesome Living Food or the sedate RGB & the Bean Hive. Fresh fruit and veggie juices (without added sugar) are also available at every mall food court. It may be a chain, but Boost is a reliable option.

Understand

Kuala Lumpur Cuisine

KL is a nonstop feast. You can dine in incredible elegance or mingle with the masses at street stalls, taking your pick from a global array of cuisines.

Chinese

Southern Chinese flavours dominate in KL; home-grown dishes include the taste-sensation chilli pan mee; try it at Kin Kin. Hainanese immigrants, who were the private cooks of the British during colonial rule, developed a hybrid Western cuisine (such as chicken chops), which is still served in old-school places such as Yut Kee and the Coliseum Cafe.

Indian

Brickfields ('Little India'), Masjid India and Chinatown are top places to sample Indian (again, typically southern) dishes, often served on banana leaves. A very KL experience is snacking at a Muslim Indian-Malay eatery known as a mamak; try comfort food dishes such as roti canai, and murtabak (pancakes stuffed with meat) at Nasi Kandar Pelita.

Malaysian

Head to Kampung Baru to sample the specialities of Malaysia’s eastern states, such as Kelantanese nasi kerabu (blue rice with fried chicken); try Kak Som. Malaysia's national dish, nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk, served with fried anchovies and peanuts), is ubiquitous, but also look for ikan bakar (grilled fish); a good place to try it is Ikan Bakar Jalan Bellamy.

Nonya

Common ingredients such as tamarinds, candlenuts, belacan and coconut give these Chinese-Malay fusion dishes deep flavours. Try Lima Blas or Old China Café.

Hawker

Some of the tastiest and best-value food is found at hawker stalls, many of which have been in business for decades or passed down from parents or even grandparents. Dishes range from satay (try Zaini Satay) to beef noodles to coconut herbal curry soup (try Keong Kee).

Markets

Intrepid eaters shouldn’t overlook pasar (markets). Morning markets such as Imbi Market include stalls selling coffee and tea, and dishes such as freshly griddled roti, and chee cheong fun (rice noodle roll; try Chee Cheong Fun Stall). Pasar malam (night markets) are also excellent places to graze.

Other

Inexpensive Thai, Burmese, Nepalese, Indonesian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani fare can easily be found in KL. More upmarket Italian, French, fusion, Japanese and pan-Asian joints also prevail.

Drinking

6Pisco BarBAR

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Take your pisco sour in the cosy, exposed-brick interior or the plant-filled courtyard of this slick tapas joint. The chef is half Peruvian, so naturally the ceviche here is good.

(%2142 2900; www.piscobarkl.com; 29 Jln Mesui; h5pm-late Tue-Sun; Raja Chulan)

6FrangipaniLOUNGE, CLUB

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At ground level Frangipani has a deck bar facing the street (though blocked by a glassed wall partition) open from 6pm, while upstairs is a chic DJ bar and lounge with regular club-night events. Friday is the official 'Frisky' gay night. Check its Facebook page for events.

(%2144 3001; www.facebook.com/FrangipaniRestaurantBar; 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang; h6pm-late Wed-Sat; W; Raja Chulan)

6Taps Beer BarMICROBREWERY

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A very welcome addition to KL's drinking scene, Taps specialises in ale from around the world with some 80 different microbrews on rotation, 14 of them on tap. There's live music Thursday to Saturday at 9.30pm and an all-day happy hour on Sundays. Taps also serves pub grub (with a few Malaysian dishes) and a Sunday roast.

(www.tapsbeerbar.my; One Residency, 1 Jln Nagansari; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; W; Raja Chulan)

6Whisky Bar Kuala LumpurBAR

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Part of the Werner’s empire of restaurants and watering holes that have colonised this end of Changkat Bukit Bintang. As the name suggests, you'll find KL's largest selection of single malt, blended whiskies (including varieties from Ireland, Japan and Taiwan), and small batch American bourbons here.

(www.thewhiskybarkl.com; 46 Changkat Bukit Bintang; h4pm-1am Sun-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri & Sat; Raja Chulan)

6Village BarBAR

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The village in question is the surreal Feast Village (a collection of bars and restaurants) in the basement of the slick Starhill Gallery mall. Columns of glasses and bottles and cascades of dangling lanterns lend an Alice in Wonderland quality to this establishment.

(Feast Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; hnoon-1am; Bukit Bintang)

6Blueboy DiscothequeGAY

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Blueboy is still going strong on the KL gay scene after two decades. Friday and Saturday nights are most popular. The club is next to the Millennium Hotel.

(%2142 1067; www.facebook.com/pages/Blueboy-Discotheque-Bukit-Bintang/167616639976407; 50 Jln Sultan Ismail; h9pm-2am; Bukit Bintang)

6Albion KLBAR

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Run by a British-Malay couple this restaurant and bar offers modern British cuisine in a gay-friendly dining and drinking venue.

(%2141 9282; www.albionkl.com; 31 Jln Berangan; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; Bukit Bintang)

6Green ManPUB

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There are several British-style pubs situated along Changkat Bukit Bintang these days, but this is the original one and has a very loyal crowd. There's an all-day English breakfast on offer, steaks, and other classic pub grub dishes to be washed down with pints of draught. This is also one of the few bars open at noon (or earlier).

(www.greenman.com.my; 40 Changkat Bukit Bintang; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-3am Sat & Sun; Raja Chulan)

6Starhill Tea SalonTEAHOUSE

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Grand columns created from colour-coded tea caddies and luxurious sofas set an elegant tone for this tea salon, appropriately sited on Starhill Gallery's Indulge Floor.

(www.starhillgallery.com; Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-11pm; Bukit Bintang)

6Luk Yu Tea HouseTEAHOUSE

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On the Feast Floor of Starhill Gallery but away from the heady 'Feast Village' area, the secluded Luk Yu offers fine Chinese and Taiwanese teas along with dim sum and other dainty snacks.

(%2782 3850; http://www.starhillgallery.com; Feast Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; Bukit Bintang)

y

Top Tip

Drinking on a Budget

RM24 for a pint of cheap draught is standard across the city's bars. Happy hour specials (usually 4pm to 8pm, and sometimes all day Sunday) offer 1½ or two pints for one: Draught Guinness (the sweet syrupy local type), Kilkenny, Heineken and Tiger are your usual choices. Less-pricey canned or bottled beers can usually be found in Chinese or Indian restaurants. For two people, a decent bottle of wine is often a better deal (from both a price and quality point of view).

The Kuala Lumpur Pub Crawl (%017 394 1191; www.facebook.com/KualaLumpurpubcrawl; hThu & Sat, 8.45pm) is not necessarily a cheaper way to drink but it's a good way to meet fellow tipplers.

Understand

Coffee, Tea or Kopi

The story of coffee drinking in KL is tied to major historical themes: colonialism, immigration, resource extraction, language mixing, and the shophouse. Hainan Chinese became expert cooks for the coffee-drinking Brits after being abandoned by their employers during the world wars, going independent (and finding cheap shophouses as the rubber industry collapsed), and calling themselves kopitiam, from Malay for coffee, and Chinese for shop.

Local kopi is roasted with butter, margarine, rice or sugar, and brewed with a muslin bag. The resulting dark, bitter drink is sweetened with condensed milk, or liquid sugar. Try it at Yut Kee, Colonial Cafe or Imbi Market.

KL also has a growing specialty coffee scene that, like its predecessors, is dominated by Chinese. Try single-origin beans at Feeka, VCR or RGB.

Colonial rule also left KL-ites with a taste for tea. One of the best shows at a    kopitiam is watching the tea-wallah toss-pour teh tarik (‘pulled’ tea) from one pitcher to another to produce a frothy cuppa.

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Local Life

Coffee Stain by Joseph

Enjoy excellent coffee and browse for the latest youth fashions from Japan at this third-wave cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/coffeestainbyjoseph#sthash.bcGq8wQ6.dpuf; Level 3, Fahrenheit88, Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; W; Bukit Bintang) on Level 3 of Fahrenheit88, a youth-centred mall on Bukit Bintang. Single-origin beans, brewed by siphon, V60 or Chemex filters, are on offer, as well as espresso, and an interesting cold brew made from soaking cherry skins (the fruit of the coffee tree) in water.

Entertainment

3No Black TieLIVE MUSIC

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Blink and you’d miss this small live-music venue, bar and Japanese bistro, as it’s hidden behind a grove of bamboo. NBT, as it’s known to its faithful patrons, is owned by Malaysian concert pianist Evelyn Hii, who has a knack for finding the talented singer-songwriters, jazz bands and classical-music ensembles who play here from around 9.30pm.

(%2142 3737; www.noblacktie.com.my; 17 Jln Mesui; cover RM30-60; h5pm-1am Mon-Sun; Raja Chulan)

3GSC Pavilion KLCINEMA

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Expect queues for hit movies at this multiplex in the popular Pavilion mall. This is one of the few mulitplexes in the GSC chain that has an International Screens program showing art house and foreign movies.

(www.gsc.com.my; Level 6, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; Bukit Bintang)

Understand

What's in a Name?

The Golden Triangle is one of the most expensive swathes of real estate in the city, and is bordered roughly by Jln Ampang, Jln Imbi/Pudu and Jln Tun Razak, which roughly form a triangle.

And those street names? Well, Ampang means 'dam' and refers to the tin mining that made KL rich. Tun Razak was the second prime minister, while Pudu means 'half in the jungle', a reference to its early location.

Most road names in this part of town, however, were changed post-independence. In fact over 500 names were changed from 1980 to 2008, and in 2014 another eight were changed. Jln Alor, the famous food street, is actually officially Jln Kejora, but next to no one uses that.

Sultan Ismail – after the Sultan of Johor

Jln P Ramlee – after Malaysia's most beloved actor

Bukit Bintang – literally 'star hill'

Jln Raja Chulan – after a member of the Perak royal family

Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman – after Malaysia's first prime minister

Shopping

7Royal SelangorCRAFTS

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This well-regarded chain of handcrafted pewter claims origins in 1885 when a Chinese pewtersmith arrived during KL's tin-mining boom. You can still find old pieces in Central Market antique shops but the newer works on sale here are outstanding. If you have time, visit the factory and visitor centre, located 8km northeast of the city centre.

(www.royalselangor.com; Level 3, Pavilion KL, 168 Jln Bukit Bintang ; h10am-10pm)

7Starhill GalleryMALL

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With its design crossing Louis Vuitton with Louis XIV, and a basement restaurant 'village' that's a maze of dark cobbled alleys, grey slate walls and bamboo partitioning, it's worth popping into this upscale mall just for a look. Top fashion outlets such as Salvatore Ferragamo are also here, as well as an excellent culinary school, and a ‘Pamper’ floor for spas.

(www.starhillgallery.com; 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

7Pavilion KLMALL

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Pavilion sets the gold standard in KL's shopping scene. Amid the many familiar international luxury labels, there are some good local options, including unisex British India ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.britishindia.com.my; Great Eastern Mall, 303 Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jampang park), which sells well-made linen tropical-wear for men and women. Note that when you enter the mall from the street you are already on Level 3.

(www.pavilion-kl.com; 168 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

7Fahrenheit88MALL

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Managed by Pavilion KL, this youth-orientated mall is a warren of tiny stalls and shops, many of a Japanese persuasion. Local fashion legend Bernard Chandran (www.bernardchandran.com) also has a boutique here on the 1st floor.

(www.fahrenheit88.com; 179 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

7Plaza Low YatELECTRONICS

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This is Malaysia's largest IT mall, with six floors of electronic goods and services. Head to the top-floor shops for repairs. There have been reports of credit-card details being recorded after transactions, so it's best to use cash here.

(http://plazalowyat.com; 7 Jln Bintang, off Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm)

7Khoon HooiFASHION

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Interesting fabric textures are a signature of this up-and-coming designer’s work. What sets his clothes apart is attention to detail, such as pleated belts made from zips or shifts sewn from lace.

(www.khoonhooi.com; Explore Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-10pm; Bukit Bintang)

Understand

Mall City

It's hard not to get the impression that in KL, the mall rules. Two of the world's 10 largest are here, and a quick walk down Bukit Bintang reveals a whopping eight more to choose from.

Mid-Valley Megamall is as big as a small town, while some try to look like actual towns; or in the case of Publika, a Manhattan street. Starhill Gallery, meanwhile, put a village in its basement, while Pavilion set up a bar street...indoors. Not to be outdone, Lot 10 reproduced a traditional chaotic food court as a clean and gleaming nostalgic fantasy (though with very good food).

The scene is as exciting and innovative to some as it is tacky and off-putting to others. No matter what, it's a distinct part of modern local life. It's also worth noting that most malls contain plenty of local products, from designer clothing to pewterware, and more surprisingly, often host museums, art galleries and non-mainstream arts festivals. Prices are high in KL, but there are frequent sales, especially around the city's many public holidays.

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Local Life

Pudu

Literally on the other side of the (monorail) tracks from the glitzy streets of Imbi, this largely Chinese neighbourhood is an excellent place to engage with KL's local urbanites. Start with the frenetic public wet market, then wander the back streets, exploring clusters of venerable shophouses, hawker centres and traditional industries.

Getting There

Pudu is south of the Golden Triangle. You can easily walk here from Bukit Bintang.

m LRT Pudu, then a three-minute walk to the market.

m LRT Hang Tuah; get off here to reverse walk.

1 Pudu Market

Arrive early to experience KL’s largest wet (produce) market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Pasar Baharu; h4am-2pm; jPudu) at its most frantic. On Jln Yew at the market's edge, check out the rowof incense, joss paper and god statuary shops. Then head to humble (Pudu is not a wealthy area) Zhong Wan Xian Shi Temple to see where these items are used for worship.

2 Glutton Street

Off the tourist radar, but renowned locally, this short alley of hawker stalls goes by the name Glutton Street (Pudu Wai Sek Kai; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Sayur; noodles RM4-7; h11am-midnight, most stalls open at 5pm; jPudu). Visit during the day to try the famous Hakka mee stall, right on the corner with Jln Pudu. Fried chicken and grilled fish make for great evening grazing.

3 Sek Yuen Restaurant

Occupying the same beautiful, time-worn, art-deco building for the past 60 years, Sek Yuen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %9222 0903; 315 Jln Pudu; mains RM20-40; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun; jPudu) is a Pudu institution. Some of the aged chefs toiling in the wood-fired kitchen have served three generations the same old-school Cantonese dishes. The kau yoke (belly pork), village chicken, and crispy skin roast duck are all classics.

4 Jalan Brunei

This short street and its intersecting alleys rewards the casual wanderer. Head down Jln Brunei Selatan and Jln Brunei Barat for pre-war shophouses, inviting kopitiam (coffee shops), and the city's printing district. On Jln Brunei Utara check out Restoran 168 ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Brunei Utara; noodles RM3-5; h10am-3pm Thu-Tue), a hole-in-the-wall famous for curry laksa and wan tan mee.

5 Eu Yan Sang

Eu Kong opened his first Yan Sang (meaning ‘caring for mankind’) Chinese medicine shop in Malaysia in 1879. In addition to the company’s herbal remedies, the Shaw Parade outlet ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.euyansang.com.my; Shaw Parade, Changkat Thambi Dollah; h10am-9pm; Imbi) includes a clinic for traditional tuina massage (body/foot RM88/56) and Chinese medicine. If you're suffering from heat stroke, gua sha (RM40), a skin-scrapping technique, is considered very effective.

6 Keong Kee

This hawker stall ( GOOGLE MAP ; Changkat Thambi Dollah & Jln 1/77b; dishes RM4-7; h4-10.30pm), set under a spreading tree in the lot across from Shaw Parade, is a Pudu institution. Try the coconut herbal curry served in a coconut shell, or the wild boar curry.

7 Pudu Prison Gate

Pudu Prison was built in the late 1890s, when the area was still largely jungle (Pudu means 'half in the jungle'). It was torn down in 2012, leaving only the gate you'll pass by as a landmark. It's a sign of the times for this and many other old neighbourhoods as developers seek large parcels of land.

8 VCR

Set in an airy pre-war shophouse, VCR ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vcr.my; 2 Jln Galloway; meals RM28-32; h8.30am-10pm ; W) serves excellent all-day breakfast, desserts, and first-rate specialty coffee. The crowd is young and diverse, but anyone will feel welcome here. Behind the shop check out Jln Sin Chew Kee, a photogenic row of colourful shophouses that look across to Bukit Bintang.

Petronas Towers & KLCC

CHRISTIAN KOBER/GETTY IMAGES ©

This is the heart of modern KL, with an impressive skyline punctuated by some of the world's tallest structures. You can gaze up at them from wooded parks, or toast the town from their sky bars and observation decks. The neighbourhood also has a few unexpected treats, from colonial bungalows and stilt houses to a jungle park with hiking trails and a great canopy walk.

The Sights in a Day

M Fortify yourself with a wholefood breakfast at Living Food before strolling down to leafy Jln Conway to check out the heritage conservation work of Badan Warisan Malaysia. Nearby Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur has traditional arts for sale and a good museum. Afterwards head up to KLCC Park, where towering banyan trees are the mere foreground for the Petronas Towers.

R Lunch at the vegetarian Monastery Canteen, and follow with a tour of the towers. Afterwards, head inside Suria KLCC for shopping, galleries and Aquaria KLCC, or head out to Jln Ampang. Follow the street west to the Bukit Nanas monorail station and the steps up to KL Forest Eco Park, a preserved jungle right in the city.

N Hike up to Menara KL then down to Jln P Ramlee and have sundowner drinks at the Heli Lounge Bar followed by dinner at innovative French restaurant Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie. Or, at KLCC, dine at the sophisticated, elevated Troika Sky Dining. You can drink here too, otherwise the Sky Bar and Marini's on 57 both offer superb views of the towers.

1  Top Sights

Petronas Towers

Menara KL

x  Best of Kuala Lumpur

Bars

Troika

Heli Lounge Bar

Sky Bar

Shopping

Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur

Suria KLCC

Ang Eng

Aseana

Street Food & Food Courts

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen

Nasi Kandar Pelita

Getting There

LRT KLCC station is directly under Suria KLCC. Ampang Park station is a little east on Jln Ampang.

Monorail Bukit Nanas station if you want to walk up to Menara KL through the jungle (highly recommended).

g Bus KL Hop-On Hop-Off buses connect all the major sights with the city's other tourist areas.

Walking It's pleasant to walk around the many tree-lined streets in this area.

1

Top Sights

Petronas Towers

Resembling twin silver rockets plucked from an episode of Flash Gordon, the Petronas Towers are the perfect symbol for the meteoric rise of the city, from tin-miners' hovels to modern shiny metropolis. They are the crowning glory of Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC), which covers 40 hectares of land that was once the Selangor Turf Club.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

www.petronastwintowers.com.my; Jln Ampang; adult/child RM80/30; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun, closed 1-2.30pm Fri; jKLCC

FAKRUL JAMIL PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A The easiest way to find the basement-level ticket booth and elevators to the Petronas Towers is to enter via Dewan Filharmonik Petronas and look for an escalator behind a wall to the right.

A Tickets go on sale at 7am and sell out fast. You can buy in advance in person for the next day, or up to a month in advance online.

A A 1.3km jogging track winds around KLCC Park. Arrive early morning (around 7am) to join aerobics and other sporting classes on a drop-in basis.

A Persiaran KLCC is a popular roadside spot for taking pictures of the towers. It's south of KLCC.

5 Take a Break

There are scores of different dining options at Suria KLCC, including two food courts. For restaurants try Little Penang Kafé. The partly al fresco cafe at the Traders Hotel offers excellent sit-down views of the towers from across KLCC Park.

Don't Miss

Petronas Towers

Opened in 1998, the 88-storey twin towers are nearly 452m tall, and were the tallest buildings in the world from 1998 to 2004. Designed by Argentinian architect Cesar Pelli, the twin towers' floor plan is based on an eight-sided star that echoes arabesque patterns. Islamic influences are also evident in each tower's five tiers – representing the five pillars of Islam – and in the 63m masts that crown them, calling to mind the minarets of a mosque and the Star of Islam.

Tower tours take 45 minutes and include a stop at the Skybridge (the world's highest bridge at 170m) on the 41st floor and a visit to the 86th-floor observation deck. You cannot visit the highest floors.

KLCC Park

The park ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-10pm; jKLCC) is the best vantage point for eyeballing the Petronas Towers. In the early evening it can seem like everyone in town is down here to watch the glowing towers punching up into the night sky. Every night after 8pm the Lake Symphony fountains play in front of the Suria KLCC.

Aquaria KLCC

The highlight of this impressive aquarium ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2333 1888; www.aquariaklcc.com; Concourse, KL Convention Centre; adult/child RM50/40; h10.30am-8pm, last admission 7pm; c; jKLCC) in the basement of the KL Convention Centre is its 90m underwater tunnel: view sand tiger sharks, giant gropers and more up close. Daily feeding sessions for a variety of fish and otters are complemented by ones for arapaima, electric eel and sharks on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday (see website for schedule). Free dives (RM400), cage dives (RM199) and a Sleep w ith Sharks (RM199) program for kids aged six to 13 are also available.

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Top Sights

Menara KL

Sitting atop a dense hillock of jungle, this lofty spire is the highest telecommunications tower in Southeast Asia and one of the highest in the world. As much as the Petronas Towers it is a symbol of KL, and a top tourist attraction. Come to appreciate the phenomenal growth of the city while enjoying afternoon tea at the sky-high revolving restaurant; or explore the park's forests from trail level or along the new canopy walkway.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

KL Tower; %2020 5444; www.menarakl.com.my; 2 Jln Punchak; observation deck adult/child RM49/29, open deck adults only RM99; hobservation deck 9am-10pm, last tickets 9.30pm

PAUL KENNEDY/ALAMY ©

y Top Tips

A A frequent shuttle bus (9am to 9.30pm) runs the last 500m to the tower from the gate off Jln Punchak. You can also walk this in 20 minutes.

A You can also get to the tower by hiking up though the forest: trails begin at the Forest Information Centre (Jln Raja Chulan), which is close to Chinatown, or off Jln Ampang at the Bukit Nanas monorail station, a 15-minute walk from KLCC.

A The KL Tower Base Jump happens in September. Reserve a spot on the deck to watch and photograph the jumpers.

A One of the most interesting views of the tower is from the beautiful red-brick St John's Institution on Jln Bukit Nanas.

5 Take a Break

Atmosphere 360 is a revolving restaurant at the top of the towers with – of course – amazing city views. Nearby, the French restaurant La Vie En Rose offers views of the tower itself from its deck.

Don't Miss

Observation Deck

Menara KL opened to the public in 1996 and although the Petronas Towers are taller structures, the telecommunication tower looks higher as its base sits already nearly 100 m above sea level atop Bukit Nanas. Thus the 421m high tower actually sits 515m above sea level. A quick lift whisks visitors up to the observation decks in the bulb of the tower, the shape of which was inspired by the Malaysian spinning toy called gasing.

KL Forest Eco Park

This thick lowland dipterocarp forest ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.forestry.gov.my; h7am-6pm; gKL Tower) covers 9.37 hectares in the heart of the city and is the oldest protected jungle in Malaysia (gazetted in 1906). More commonly known as Bukit Nanas (bukit means hill), the park offers short trails up to and around Menara KL. A cool new canopy walk opened in 2014 just up from the Forest Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2026 4741; www.forestry.gov.my; Jln Raja Chulan; h9am-5pm). The centre has somewhat useful maps and posters on jungle flora and fauna.

Old Tree

During the tower's construction the base was moved slightly (at a reported cost of RM430,000) to save a 100-year-old jelutong tree. It's to the left of the tower lobby.

Malaysia Cultural Village

Worth a visit for the reproductions of traditional kampung wood and attap housing from every Malaysian state. The location, along a short ridgeline running directly away from the tower lobby, also gives a unique perspective on the city: eye-level with slick high-rises hundreds of metres away, as you stand atop a mound of dense jungle.

1 Top Sights

Petronas Towers  D2

Menara KL  A4

1 Sights

1Badan Warisan Malaysia  F5

2Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman  F5

Muzeum Kraf  G5

Galeri Petronas  E2

Petrosains  E2

3Tabung Haji  H2

4Muslim Cemetery  C2

5 Eating

5Nasi Kandar Pelita  F2

6RGB & The Bean Hive  G1

7Living Food  H3

Little Penang Kafé  E2

8Melur & Thyme  E2

9La Vie En Rose  A5

10Atmosphere 360  A4

11Cuisine Gourmet by Nathalie  B4

12Troika Sky Dining  F2

6 Drinking

Fuego  F2

13Heli Lounge Bar  D5

Apartment Downtown  E2

14Luna Bar  B4

15Sky Bar  F4

16Marini's on 57  D3

17Tate  H1

18Neo Tamarind  C4

19Zouk  C2

3 Entertainment

20KL Live  C4

21Dewan Filharmonik Petronas  D2

Time Out Comedy Thursday  C2

TGV Cineplex  E2

7 Shopping

22Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur  G5

23Ang Eng  E2

24Suria KLCC  E2

Aseana  E2

Tenmoku Pottery  E2

Sights

1Badan Warisan MalaysiaHISTORIC BUILDING

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This heritage preservation society has its head office in a 1920s colonial bungalow. The building, once part of a neighbourhood of British officers' quarters, is one of the few remaining, though it's worth strolling Jln Conlay to see what's left. The trust holds exhibitions and has a small shop stocking wooden antique furniture, local handcrafted items and books.

(Heritage of Malaysia Trust; %2144 9273; www.badanwarisan.org.my; 2 Jln Stonor; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; Raja Chulan)

1Rumah Penghulu Abu SemanHISTORIC BUILDING

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This glorious wooden stilt-house was built in stages between 1910 and the 1930s and later moved to the grounds of Badan Warisan Malaysia. You can wander around outside tour times (and since it's built with ventilation in mind you can easily look in). Check out the stunning handcarved canoe under the house. The boat was used in religious ceremonies in Kelantan and has the head of a fantastic-looking bird carved into the prow.

(2 Jln Stonor; suggested donation RM10; htours 11am & 3pm Mon-Sat)

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman

GREG ELMS/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Muzeum KrafMUSEUM

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At the back of the Komplek Kraf shop is this surprisingly good museum dedicated to Malaysia's traditional crafts. There are special exhibits, and regular displays of batik, wood carving, pewter, kites and drums. Exhibits are nicely accompanied by informative posters.

(Jln Conlay; adult/child RM3/1; h9am-5pm)

1Galeri PetronasGALLERY

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Swap consumerism for culture at this excellent art gallery showcasing contemporary photography and paintings. It’s a bright, modern space with interesting, professionally curated shows that change every few months.

(%2051 7770; www.galeripetronas.com.my; 3rd fl, Suria KLCC; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; jKLCC)

1PetrosainsMUSEUM

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Kids and kidults can fill an educational few hours at this interactive science discovery centre with all sorts of buttons to press and levers to pull. Many of the activities and displays focus on the wonderful things that fuel has brought to Malaysia – no prizes for guessing who sponsors the museum. As a side note, 'sains' is not pronounced 'sayns' but 'science'.

(www.petrosains.com.my; Level 4, Suria KLCC; adult/child RM25/20; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & Sun; jKLCC)

1Tabung HajiARCHITECTURE

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Designed by celebrated Malay architect Hijjas Kasturi, this distinctive tower houses the hajj funding body. The five main exterior columns represent the five pillars of Islam, while the overall structure recalls the drum used to summon pilgrims to the hajj and the shape of a traditional Arabic perfume vessel.

(201 Jln Tun Razak; jAmpang Park)

1Muslim CemeteryCEMETERY

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Tucked away off Jln Ampang behind Hotel Maya, and split from Kampung Baru by a highway, is one of KL's oldest Muslim burial grounds. It's shaded by giant banyans and raintrees planted in the early 20th century. The famous film director, actor and singer P Ramlee, two of his former wives and his co-star AR Tompel are buried here. Men need to wear long pants and women a headscarf if you wish to visit.

(off Jln Ampang; h7am-6pm; Bukit Nanas)

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Top Tip

Menara vs Petronas

Both towers offer stupendous views over this developing city, but if you want to see KL on a whim, or have forgotten to book ahead, then Menara KL is the better choice. There are rarely queues, even on weekends; finding the ticket booth is straightforward; and you can be up and down in 30 minutes and follow it up with a walk through the jungle down to Chinatown.

Understand

Modern Architecture in Kuala Lumpur

Following independence there was a conscious effort to break from the ornate colonial architectural style, particularly when it came to public building. This resulted in the elegant lines of the Masjid Negara (National Mosque), Stadium Merdeka (built for the declaration of independence in 1957) and neighbouring Stadium Negara.

Some projects, such as the National Parliament (built in 1963 and designed by William Ivor Shipley), the National Museum, Menara Maybank and Istana Budaya (the national theatre near Lake Titiwangsa), incorporate distinctive motifs from traditional Malay architecture and art. Others, such as the beautiful Dayabumi Complex, and – later – the Petronas Towers, take their design references from Islam.

Among Malaysia’s postcolonial architects of note is Hijjas Kasturi, who designed the handsome Tabung Haji, the Menara Maybank buildings and the slick Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery. Kasturi is also responsible for the somewhat ridiculous giant shark fin of Menara Telekom (clearly visible when you are in Bangsar).

Eating

5Nasi Kandar PelitaINDIAN, MALAYSIAN $

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The Jln Ampang branch of this chain of excellent mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food courts is on the ground floor of a corner bungalow on stilts. Among the 60 dishes available from the various stalls are magnificent roti canai (flat, flaky bread) and hariyali tikka (spiced chicken with mint, cooked in the tandoor).

(www.pelita.com.my; 149 Jln Ampang; dishes RM2-8; h24hr; jKLCC)

5RGB & The Bean HiveCAFE $$

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This is what you get when a boutique coffee roaster teams with health-conscious cooks in a quiet green oasis. RGB serves excellent hand-drip coffees and espresso-based drinks as well as vegetarian sandwiches, pastas and wraps, all in a cute bungalow with an inner courtyard and big grassy yard.

(%2181 1329; www.facebook.com/RatherGoodBeans; 35 Jln Damai; mains RM8-18; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; Wv; jAmpang Park)

5Living FoodVEGAN $$

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Tasty and imaginative vegan and raw food is showcased at this charming cafe, oddly situated inside the Menara Tan & Tan Building (head left when you enter). But there's also plenty on the menu for the less virtuous, such as freshly made burgers and a laksa from Sarawak, where the owners hail from.

(www.livingfoodmy.com; Menara Tan & Tan, Jln Tun Razak; mains RM20-30; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat; Wv; jAmpang Park)

5Little Penang KaféMALAYSIAN $$

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At peak meal times expect a long line outside this mall joint serving authentic food from Penang, including specialities such as curry mee (spicy soup noodles with prawns).

(%2163 0215; Level 4, Suria KLCC; mains RM12-16; h11.30am-9.30pm; jKLCC)

5Melur & ThymeFUSION $$

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This appealingly designed restaurant's name, conjoining Malay and Western ingredients, hints at its game plan: offering Malay dishes alongside Western standbys such as a Caesar salad. For breakfast the coconut pancakes with caramelised honeydew melon is a very tasty precursor to a day's shopping in Suria KLCC.

(%2181 8001; www.melurandthyme.com; Ground fl, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; mains RM22-42; h8am-10pm; jKLCC)

5La Vie En RoseFRENCH $$$

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Housed in an airy, early '50s bungalow with a terrace looking across to a row of decadently fading shophouses and the green mass of Bukit Nanas, this innovative French place is best for a lazy weekend brunch (from RM50), when there's free flow of breads and pastries from the restaurant's own bakery.

(%03-2078 3883; www.cuisine-studio.net/; 39 Jln Raja Chulan; appetisers/mains from RM24/52; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-2.30 & 6.30-10.30pm Sat, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun; W; gKL Tower)

5Atmosphere 360MALAYSIAN, INTERNATIONAL $$$

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Watch KL pass by from this revolving restaurant atop Menara KL (KL Tower). The lunch and dinner buffets offer ample choice of Malay dishes, though they can be hit-and-miss. Book ahead (you can do this online) for meals, especially sunset dining, but you can usually just drop in for high tea. Note there's a smart casual dress code.

(%2020 2020; www.atmosphere360.com.my; Menara KL, 2 Jln Puncak; buffet lunch/afternoon tea/dinner RM76/59/170; h11.30am-3pm & 6.30-11pm; gKL Tower)

Atmosphere 360

HEMIS/ALAMY ©

5Cuisine Gourmet by NathalieFRENCH $$$

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Having made her mark with a smaller outlet in Publika, Nathalie gets more creative with her modern French cuisine in this fine-dining space near Menara KL. If you're after a light repast, the bento-style lunches (RM45) are a bargain and the desserts sublime.

(%03-2072 4452; www.cuisinegourmetbynathalie.com; Menara Taipan, Jln Punchak; mains RM35-80; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sun ; W; gKL Tower)

5Troika Sky DiningFRENCH, ITALIAN $$$

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Sophisticated dining with outstanding views of KLCC's glittering high-rises are the highlights of the Troika complex of restaurants and bars. Try Canteloupe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; mains from RM75; h6.30pm-10.30pm) for modern French, and Strato ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com/strato.html; Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; set lunch from RM50, pizza RM30-50; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm; jAmpang Park) for Italian that aims for homely authenticity (though we don't ever recall Mama making us Wagyu beef cheek and trotter ravioli).

(%2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; v; jAmpang Park)

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Top Tip

Jalan Ampang

On the northern border of KLCC Park is Jln Ampang, a historic street that once led from the mansions of the tin tycoons to the mines themselves out in Ampang (Ampang means 'dam', a reference to the dams created during the mining process). Today the wide street is still lined with raintrees and banyans planted over a hundred years ago, though only a handful of the old bungalows remain, including the ones used for the Malaysian Tourism Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 109 Jln Ampang; h8am-10pm; Bukit Nanas) and the gorgeous Pakistan High Commission across the road.

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Local Life

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen

Join office workers for a tasty vegetarian lunch of various fried rice and noodle dishes, dumplings and delicious yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with a tofu paste) at the airy Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen ( GOOGLE MAP ; 161 Jln Ampang; meal RM6-10; h11.30am-2pm Mon-Fri; jAmpang Park), located behind a monastery. The food contains no onions or garlic and there are drinks and fruit, too. Try to get here before noon.

Drinking

6FuegoBAR

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Part of the Troika complex, Fuego shares the same sophisticated ambience and jaw-dropping views across the KLCC park as the fine-dining restaurants. The bar specialises in innovative cocktails and tapas, while its sister venue, Claret, open from 4pm to 1am, offers a curated wine list.

(%2162 0886; www.troikaskydining.com; Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Persiaran KLCC; h6pm-midnight; jAmpang Park)

6Heli Lounge BarCOCKTAIL BAR

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Nothing besides your lychee martini and the cocktail waiter stands between you and the edge of the helipad at KL's most thrilling rooftop bar. Yep, 34 floors up and this outdoor joint has no railing. Only come if the weather's fine, as the views are 360-degrees amazing, but do be careful.

(%2110 5034; www.facebook.com/Heliloungebar; Level 34, Menara KH, Jln Sultan Ishmail; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; Raja Chulan)

6Apartment DowntownCAFE, BAR

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As one of the least generic looking of the semi-outdoor restaurants and bars facing the fountains of Suria KLCC park, the Apartment pulls in a younger and less touristy crowd. A recent renovation created more space between tables.

(www.atheapartment.com; Jln Ampang, Level 1, Suria KLCC; h10am-midnight; jKLCC)

6Luna BarBAR

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A twinkling view of KL’s skyline is guaranteed at this sophisticated rooftop bar surrounding a swimming pool.

(%2332 7777; www.facebook.com/lunabarkl; 34th fl, Pacific Regency Hotel Suites, Jln Punchak, off Jln P Ramlee; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W)

6Sky BarBAR

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Head to the rooftop pool area of this hotel for a grand circle view across to the Petronas Towers – it’s the perfect spot for sundowner cocktails or late-night flutes of bubbly.

(%2332 9888; www.skybar.com.my; Level 33, Traders Hotel; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; jKLCC)

6Marini's on 57BAR

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This is about as close as you can get to eyeballing the upper levels of the Petronas Towers from a bar. The stellar views are complemented by a sleek interior design and attentive service. When booking (advised) be aware that it's the lively bar not the laid-back whisky lounge that has the view of the towers.

(%2386 6030; www.marinis57.com; Level 57, Menara 3, Petronas KLCC; h5pm-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; jKLCC)

6TateCOCKTAIL BAR

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It's bordering on self-mockery to have a 'secret' speakeasy cocktail bar in a shopping mall, but once you get past that, Tate's sophisticated atmosphere, complete with cushy leather armchairs and a great cocktail menu, is perfect for a relaxing late night drink.

(www.thebiggroup.co; ground fl, Intermark, 182 Jln Tun Razak; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat; W; jAmpang Park)

6Neo TamarindBAR

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Next to its sister operation, Burmese-Thai restaurant Tamarind Hill, this sophisticated restaurant-bar feels like a slice of Bali smuggled into the heart of KL. Sip cocktails by flickering lights and a waterfall running the length of the long bar. The Thai and Indochinese food is also lovely should you want to start with dinner.

(www.samadhiretreats.com; 19 Jln Sultan Ismail; h5pm-midnight; Raja Chulan)

6ZoukCLUB

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This popular club has spaces to suit everyone and a line-up of top local and international DJs. In addition to the two-level main venue, there’s the more sophisticated Velvet Underground for the older, well-heeled clubber; Phuture for hip-hop; and the rooftop bar Aristo, which is open from 6pm. Cover charges vary between venues.

(www.zoukclub.com.my; 113 Jln Ampang; h9pm-3am Tue-Sun; Bukit Nanas)

Understand

Gay & Lesbian Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country and the level of tolerance for homosexuality is vastly different from its neighbours. Sex between men is illegal at any age and sharia Islamic laws also forbid cross-dressing. Fortunately, outright persecution of gays and lesbians is rare; the sodomy case against opposition leader Ibrahim Anwar that made headlnes in 2014 was politically motivated. Nonetheless, gay and lesbian travellers should avoid behaviour that may attract unwanted attention – Malaysians are quite conservative about any displays of public affection.

That said, there is, a bit surprisingly, a fairly open gay scene in KL, with several established gay dance nights: the main ones are at    Frangipani and Blueboy. Reggae Bar in Chinatown is also gay-friendly, as is the modern British restaurant and pub Albion KL. Start looking for information on www.utopia-asia.com or www.fridae.com, both of which provide good coverage of LGBT events and activities across Asia.

Entertainment

3KL LiveLIVE MUSIC

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One of the best things to happen to KL’s live-music scene has been the opening of this spacious venue, which has been packing in rock and pop fans with an impressive line-up of overseas and local big-name artists and DJs.

(www.kl-live.com.my; 1st fl, Life Centre, 20 Jln Sultan Ismail; Raja Chulan)

3Dewan Filharmonik PetronasCONCERT VENUE

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Don’t miss the chance to attend a show at this gorgeous concert hall at the base of the Petronas Towers. The polished Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra plays here (usually Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday matinees, but also other times), as do other local and international ensembles. There is a dress code.

(%2051 7007; http://mpo.com.my; Box Office, Tower 2, Petronas Towers, KLCC; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; jKLCC)

Dewan Filharmonik Petronas

PAUL GADD/CORBIS ©

3Time Out Comedy ThursdayCOMEDY

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It’s always a packed house for this monthly stand-up gig at Zouk, which has been running continuously since 2008.

(%2166 6650; www.timeoutkl.com; Zouk, 113 Jln Ampang; cover RM25; h8.30pm 1st Thu of month)

3TGV CineplexCINEMA

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Take your pick from the mainstream offerings at this 12-screen multiplex. Book in advance or be prepared to queue, particularly at weekends.

(www.tgv.com.my/cinemas/suria-klcc; Level 3, Suria KLCC)

Understand

The Cultural Makeup of Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur is a multicultural potpourri. Wander around Chinatown on a Sunday or Bukit Bintang on any night of the week and it's almost as if you've touched down in a convention of the UN. The main ethnic groups may be Malays, Chinese and Indians, but there are also communities of Indonesians and Thais (many of whom live in Kampung Baru) as well as Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Nepalis and Burmese. Scores of Middle Eastern folk have also settled here, and Japanese are numerous enough to warrant their own school in Mont Kiara, and a vibrant restaurant scene. Smaller communities include the Korean enclave in Ampang and the pockets of Western professionals and retirees around Bangsar and KLCC. In all, these smaller foreign communities comprise anywhere from 2% to 9% of the city's population.

Malays

Like almost everyone else in KL, most of the city's Malay residents hail from beyond the city's borders. Many still hanker after the spirit of the communal kampung (village) and, come any long weekend, the roads out of KL are jammed with carloads of city families headed to their home village. Today about 40% of the population of KL is Malay.

Chinese

The very birth of KL in the 19th century coincided with an influx of Chinese immigrants, mainly Hakka and Cantonese who came to work the tin mines. Among the ethnic groups that followed were the Hainanese, who became renowned cooks for the British – KL's Hainan fare is legendary. Today Chinese make up about 40% of the population of the city and are prominent in business, though religious customs still govern much of home life.

Indians

Like the Chinese, Indians in KL (who comprise about 10% of the population) trace their ancestry to many parts of the motherland (and also Sri Lanka) and practise different cultural traditions, especially with respect to religion: there are Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, Christians and more. Most KL Indians are Tamils, with roots in Tamil Nadu in southern India, where Hindu traditions are strong.

Shopping

7Kompleks Kraf Kuala LumpurARTS, CRAFTS

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A government enterprise, this huge complex mainly caters to coach tours, but it’s worth a visit to browse the shops and stalls selling wood carvings, pewter, basketware, glassware and ceramics and especially to visit the attached Muzeum Kraf. It's a pleasant walk here from KLCC Park.

(%2162 7533; www.kraftangan.gov.my/101/main/content/68; Jln Conlay; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; Raja Chulan, then taxi)

7Ang EngCLOTHING

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Ang Eng has been making Nonya kebaya (a traditional colourful blouse in the Peranakan style) since 1955, and is still highly recommended by the Chinese community.

(%2161 2324; Level 2, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm)

7Suria KLCCMALL

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Even if shopping bores you to tears, you’re sure to find something to interest you at this fine shopping complex at the foot of the Petronas Towers, strong on both local and international brands.

(www.suriaklcc.com.my; KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jKLCC)

7AseanaFASHION

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Billed as Malaysia's 'largest luxury multi-brand boutique', Aseana is noted for accessories, bags, jewellery, and an extensive selection from international and local fashion luminaries such as Malaysian Farah Khan (www.farahkhan.com), who specialises in beaded and sequined glamour-wear.

(www.melium.com; Ground Level, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jKLCC)

7Tenmoku PotteryHOMEWARES

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With its kilns based near Batu Caves, Tenmoku Pottery specialises in vases, bowls and other ceramics inspired by natural forms.

(www.tenmokupottery.com.my; Level 3, Suria KLCC, Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jKLCC)

Understand

Talking the Talk

As the capital of a former British colony, Kuala Lumpur is generally an easy place to travel for English-speakers, but you'll have to get used to the local patois, which includes plenty of Mandarin, Cantonese, Hokkien, Tamil and Bahasa words and phrases. Abbreviations are also a way of life here, such as KL (for Kuala Lumpur) or PJ (Petaling Jaya).

Keep an ear out for sentence-ending words borrowed from Chinese grammar. Most do not add meaning (as in Chinese) but a tone or mood to what was said. Common expressions include:

Lah Common suffix used to affirm a statement. 'Don't be stupid, lah.'

Leh Hard to distinguish from lah but softens what was said. 'Give me, leh.'

Can Used to mean yes and often repeated with lah added, eg 'Can you come pick me up?' 'Can can, lah.'

Got Used for all tenses of the verb 'to have', eg 'Got noodles in the soup?' 'Got money.'

Meh An expression of scepticism, eg 'Really meh?''

Malaysia boleh 'Malaysia can do it,' but often used now to refer to under-the-table activities, eg 'Can I get cheap duty-free liquor in town?' 'Can. Malaysia boleh.'

Understand

Which Floor Do You Want?

KL follows the British model for flooring, so what North Americans call the 1st floor, is ground floor here. However, almost every building has its own standards: some have Lower Ground, Ground and Upper Ground floors (and sometimes Lower and Upper Ground floors 1 and 2), Mezzanine floors, and so on. It's not uncommon to walk into a mall, ask for directions, and be told the place you want is on the 1st floor: so go up three levels. Pavilion KL is in a league of its own by labelling the floor you walk in on from the street as Level 3.

Most malls also complicate themselves with multiple sections; and then having information maps that only show shops in the section you are in. Give yourself plenty of time to find what you want when out shopping.

Chinatown & Merdeka Square

ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

KL's Chinatown is as classic as they come, with rows of ageing shophouses and art deco mansions punctuated with temples, gold merchants, bric-a-brac emporiums, and back-alley fried-noodle vendors. But with its smattering of mosques and Hindu temples it's more multicultural than most. Adjacent Merdeka (Independence) Square was once the centre of British colonial power, and has the inspiring Indo-Saracenic architecture to show for it.

The Sights in a Day

M Begin your day with a fusion breakfast at LOKL then stroll through the Old High Court Building verandah, which ends with your first view of Merdeka Square. On Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, join the heritage walk, otherwise stop in at KL City Gallery for a rundown on the city's history, then explore the surrounding Indo-Saracenic buildings and museums on your own. Get to Masjid Jamek before it closes at 12.30pm.

R Next head over to Chinatown, stopping at Medan Pasar, where KL began. For lunch, try the canteen Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir, or Peter Hoe Beyond Cafe in the Lee Rubber Building. Plan to spend a few hours in Central Market, shopping, browsing, and exploring the Museum of Ethnic Arts. Afterwards, visit the area's key temples, both Indian and Chinese. Wind down with an ice coffee at Moontree House.

N Dine around the corner at Old China Café, or go old-school at Kim Lian Kee on Petaling St. Wander the frenetic night market, then enjoy an outdoor beer and BBQ on Jln Sultan. For fancier digs head to the speakeasy Omakase + Appreciate.

1  Top Sights

Merdeka Square

x  Best of Kuala Lumpur

Street Food & Food Courts

Madras Lane Hawkers

Hong Ngek

Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir

Shopping

Peter Hoe Beyond

Central Market

Museum of Ethnic Arts

Entertainment

Kelantan Shadow Puppet Play

Panggung Bandaraya

Petaling Street Art House

For Free

KL City Gallery

Masjid Jamek

Dataran Merdeka Heritage Walk

National Textiles Museum

Merdeka Square

Museum of Ethnic Arts

Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association Temple

Sri Mahamariamman Temple

Sin Sze Si Ya Temple

Getting There

LRT Pasar Seni and Masjid Jamek are the most convenient stations for Chinatown and Mederka Square.

g Bus KL Hop-On Hop-Off buses connect Merdeka Square with Central Market.

Walking Chinatown is compact and you can easily walk the entire area. It's often faster than a taxi or bus because of the narrow traffic-snarled streets.

1

Top Sights

Merdeka Square

Once the green nucleus of colonial power on the Malay Peninsula, Merdeka (which means independence) became fixed in the national consciousness at midnight on 31 August 1957 when the British flag was lowered and the Malayan States flag hoisted up a towering flagpole. The square is ringed by heritage buildings, and people come here to learn about the city's history as much as to admire the grand colonial architecture. With few high-rises visible from the square, time does seem to stand still here.

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Dataran Merdeka; jMasjid Jamek

Sultan Abdul Samad Building

STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A Aim for a morning or late-afternoon visit. The midday sun always feels particularly fierce here.

A With the KL City Gallery (the official city tourism information centre) here, the square is the best place to get orientated and informed on your first day in town; pick up a walking tour map to explore all the surrounding colonial buildings.

A The lovely Lake Gardens are just a short walk or bike ride up Jln Raja Laut.

5 Take a Break

There's a cafe in KL City Gallery, but there's more to choose from in Chinatown, just a few minutes walk away. Try the block on Jln Tun HS Lee between Jln Tun Perak and Jln Gereja. Hong Ngek offers traditional kopitiam comfort food, while LOKL offers much the same in more hipper environs.

Don't Miss

Royal Selangor Club

The square is surrounded by some of KL's best colonial-era buildings, including the Tudor-style Royal Selangor Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rscweb.my; Jln Raja; jMasjid Jamek). Built in 1884, this exclusive social club for the KL elite is where social running club Hash House Harriers was formed in 1938.

Sultan Abdul Samad Building

On one side of the square is a row of iconic buildings, including the Sultan Abdul Samad Building ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Raja; jMasjid Jamek). Built in 1897, it was the first public building in Malaysia designed in the Mughal (or Indo-Saracenic) style, and it influenced a rash of others across the city. The building to the right is the old General Post Office.

National Textiles Museum

This excellent museum (Muzium Tekstil Negara; GOOGLE MAP ; %2694 3457; www.muziumtekstilnegara.gov.my; Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; h9am-6pm; jMasjid Jamek) occupies another elegant Mughal-style building. The lower floors cover the history of textiles, in particular Malaysian fabrics such as songket (silk with gold threading), and the traditional process used in manufacturing. Gorgeous fabrics and items of clothing abound. The upper floors cover Malaysian fabrics and design motifs in greater detail, as well as jewellery and headgear.

KL City Gallery

Get a quick but detailed overview of the city's history, and pick up a folder full of brochures and travel information, at this official tourism information centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2691 1382; www.klcitygallery.com; 27 Jln Raja, Dataran Merdeka; Admission RM5; h9am-6.30pm; W; jMasjid Jamek) set in the former Government Printing Office (built 1898). On the 2nd floor is a large scale model of KL. The gift shop has a wide range of crafts and books on KL.

1 Top Sights

Merdeka Square  A2

1 Sights

1Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association Temple  D7

2Sri Mahamariamman Temple  C6

3Sin Sze Si Ya Temple  C4

4Masjid Jamek  B2

5Dataran Merdeka Heritage Walk  A2

6Central Market  B4

7Museum of Ethnic Arts  B4

8Old High Court Building  B1

9Guandi Temple  C5

10St Mary's Anglican Cathedral  A1

11Stadium Merdeka  E8

12St John's Cathedral  D2

13Medan Pasar  B3

5 Eating

14Hong Ngek  C3

15Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir  B4

16Kim Lian Kee  C5

17Restoran Santa  D2

18Madras Lane Hawkers  C5

19Chee Cheong Fun Stall  C5

20Old China Café  C7

21Peter Hoe Beyond Cafe  C5

22LOKL  D2

23Precious Old China  B4

6 Drinking

24Omakase + Appreciate  D1

25Reggae Bar  C5

26Aku Cafe & Gallery  C6

27Moontree House  C6

28Koong Woh Tong  C4

3 Entertainment

29Kelantan Shadow Puppet Play  A3

30Panggung Bandaraya  B1

31Petaling Street Art House  D5

32Muzium Musik  A3

7 Shopping

33Central Market Shops  B4

34Peter Hoe Beyond  C5

35Junk Bookstore  C3

36House of Rinpo  A3

37Purple Cane Tea Arts  C6

38Petaling Street Market  C5

39Kwong Yik Seng  C5

40Sang Kee  C3

Sights

1Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association TempleTEMPLE

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Opened in 1906 to serve immigrants with the surname Chan, this Cantonese-style temple is a beauty. Decorative panels of 100-year-old Shek Wan pottery adorn the facade and eaves, while side gables swirl like giant waves. Inside the high celinged main hall, an altar enshrines the three ancestors of the Chan clan. Note a current restoration project is replacing the distinctive green-coloured roof tiles with grey ones in deference to the original model ancestral temple in Guangzhou, China.

(%2078 1461; Jln Petaling; h9am-6pm; Maharajalela)

1Sri Mahamariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

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This lively Hindu temple – the oldest in Malaysia and rumoured to be the richest – was founded in 1873. Mariamman is the South Indian mother goddess, also known as Parvati. Her shrine is at the back of the complex. On the left sits a shrine to the elephant-headed Ganesh, and on the right one to Lord Murugan. During the Thaipusam festival, Lord Murugan is transported to Batu Caves from the temple on a silver chariot.

(163 Jln Tun HS Lee; h6am-8.30pm, till 9.30pm Fri; jPasar Seni)

Sri Mahamariamman Temple

INTI ST CLAIR/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Sin Sze Si Ya TempleTEMPLE

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Kuala Lumpur's oldest Chinese temple was built on the instructions of Kapitan Yap Ah Loy and is dedicated to Sin Sze Ya and Si Sze Ya, two Chinese immigrants instrumental in Yap's ascension to Kapitan status. Several beautiful objects decorate the temple, including two hanging carved panels, but the best feature is the almost frontier-like atmosphere. This is still an important temple for the community, much as it was in 1864 when 10,000 people turned out for opening day.

(Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-5pm; jPasar Seni)

1Masjid JamekMOSQUE

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This onion-domed mosque packs a double aesthetic punch. Gracefully designed in Mughal style, it's situated at the confluence of two rivers, the Gombak and Klang. Built in 1907 based on the design of British architect AB Hubback, it was the first brick mosque in Malaysia and the city's centre of Islamic worship until the opening of Masjid Negara (National Mosque) in 1965. You can visit inside outside prayer times, but dress conservatively and remember to remove your shoes before entering.

(Friday Mosque; off Jln Tun Perak; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4pm, closed Fri; jMasjid Jamek)

1Dataran Merdeka Heritage WalkWALKING TOUR

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This free walk, taking in 11 heritage sights around Merdeka Square, runs from 9am to 11.45am every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, starting at the KL City Gallery in the square.

(%2698 0332; Merdeka Sq)

1Central MarketMARKET

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One of KL's most popular sights, this 1930s art deco building (a former wet market) was rescued from demolition in the 1980s and transformed into an arts and crafts centre aimed at tourists. Nonetheless, there are some excellent shops, good restaurants, and a brilliant museum in the annexe. The adjacent Kasturi Walk – the arch is a series of wau bulan (moon kites) – is bordered by a row of handsome restored shophouses. Thirty-minute dance performances are held nightly at 9pm except Fridays.

(www.centralmarket.com.my; Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-10pm; jPasar Seni)

1Museum of Ethnic ArtsMUSEUM

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This extraordinary private collection of tribal arts from Borneo is mixed with Nonya ceramics, Tibetan thangka paintings, Chinese paintings and porcelain, embroidered wall hangings, hand-carved boxes and doors, and all manner of delights from Malaysia and the region. Almost everything is for sale here.

(%2301 1468; 2nd fl, The Annexe, 10 Jln Hang Kasturi; h10.30am-7pm)

1Old High Court BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING

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You're likely to walk down the arched verandah of this handsome, AB Hubbard–designed heritage building opened in 1915, on the way to Merdeka Square from the Masjid Jamek LRT station. Cross the street to admire the rows of ogee arches of the ground floor, the keyhole arches on the 1st floor, and the rooftop cupolas.

(Jln Benteng)

1Guandi TempleTEMPLE

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Founded in 1886, this atmospheric temple is dedicated to Guandi, a historical Chinese general known as the Taoist god of war, but more commonly worshipped as the patron of righteous brotherhoods: he is in fact patron of both police forces and triad gangs. The temple's high ceilings, red walls, tiled eaves and pointy gable ends give it a distinctive look that's great for photos, though there are few details to admire up close.

(Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-5pm; jPasar Seni)

1St Mary’s Anglican CathedralCHURCH

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This handsome Gothic-revival English country church was designed by government architect AC Norman and erected in 1894. It was the first brick church in Malaysia and it still maintains a small Anglican congregation. Inside is a fine pipe-organ built in 1895 by Henry Willis (though since heavily restored), the Englishman responsible for the organ in St Paul's Cathedral in London. It's now dedicated to Sir Henry Gurney, the British high commissioner to Malaya, assassinated in 1951 during the Emergency.

(%2692 8672; www.stmaryscathedral.org.my; Jln Raja; jMasjid Jamek)

1Stadium MerdekaHISTORIC BUILDING

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Built for the declaration of independence in 1957, this open-air stadium is where Malaysia’s first prime minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, famously punched his fist in the air seven times shouting ‘Merdeka!’ (Independence!). Other big events during its history include a boxing match between Muhammad Ali and Joe Bugner, and a concert by Michael Jackson. There are panoramic views of the city from the grandstands and a couple of evocative photographic murals in the entrance hall.

(Jln Stadium; Maharajalela)

1St John's CathedralCHURCH

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This twin-spired structure (established 1883) is the only Catholic cathedral in KL. Further up the road is the striking red-brick St John's Institute, which seems a mix of colonial Spanish and Japanese-Rennaisance architecture. From here you can also see both the Petronas Towers and Menara KL peeking over Bukit Nanas.

(Jln Bukit Bintang; jMasjid Jamek)

1Medan PasarSQUARE

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Recently transformed into a pedestrian square, Medan Pasar (which translates as Market Square) was once the heart of Chinatown. Kapitan Yap Ah Loy lived here, and in addition to holding the city's wet market, it was a place of brothels and illegal gambling dens (now long gone). In the centre stands an art deco clock tower built in 1937 to commemorate the coronation of King George IV.

(Medan Pasar; jMasjid Jamek)

Understand

Colonial Architecture

Chinatown and Merdeka Square are centre stage for some of KL's best colonial architecture.

Indo-Saracenic (Mughal)

Grand civic buildings around Merdeka Square signalled the British desire to stamp their colonial mark on the city. It isn't exactly clear why, but government architects such as AB Hubback and AC Norman designed masterpieces that blended European elements with the Mughal style they had observed in India. Some obvious features of this style are corner towers and slim minarets, domes, chatris (plates under the domes), repetitive use of arches (keyhole, horseshoe and ogee), and (usually) brick facades.

The style did not remain in fashion for long. The Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the first of its kind, was built in 1897, while the last, the KTM Headquarters (across from the grand Old KL Train Station), was finished in 1917.

Shophouses, Bungalows & Mansions

Quintessential icons of colonial Straits Chinese architecture across Southeast Asia, shophouses began to appear from the 1880s onwards as the city rebuilt itself after a great fire destroyed all the wood and attap housing.

The typical shophouse has a shop at the front with living quarters above and to the rear. Constructed in terraces, each unit is long and narrow, approximately 6m by 30m, sometimes as long as 60m. Inner courtyards provide ventilation, while arcade walkways (the so-called 'five-foot way') at the front provide protection from rain and harsh sunlight. The uniform arcade was first imposed in Singapore by order of Sir Stamford Raffles.

As KL became more prosperous, humble two-storey shophouses began to add an extra floor and redo their facades in a range of styles, from neoclassical to Dutch Patrician to art deco. Some of the best remaining rows are on Jln Hang Kasturi (beside Central Market), Medan Pasar, and Jln Sin Chew Kee behind VCR.

In the early 20th century Chinese tin and rubber merchants lined streets such as Jln Ampang with detached two-storey bungalows that could be accessed by horse-drawn carriage. The wealthiest constructed grand mansions such as Loke Mansion and the former Royal Museum that combined European classical architectural forms with Chinese decorative motifs.

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Local Life

Chetty Street

From the Masjid Jamek LRT station walk one block southeast to Lebuh Ampang, formerly known as Chetty St, after the Chettiars of South India. Chettiars were a merchant caste, and in KL's early days, before proper banks, they acted as moneylenders. That traditional business is more faded than the paint on many of the street's old shophouses, but it's still worth a visit to this historic part of the old city. A few moneychangers remain, as do gold-sellers, Indian cafes, and street vendors selling sweets and flower garlands.

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Top Tip

Kuala Lumpur by Bicycle

Cycling is a great way to get around Merdeka Square, Chinatown and the Lake Gardens. Rent basic bikes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2691 2382; www.myhoponhopoff.com; Dataran Merdeka Underground Mall. Merdeka Sq; per hour RM10, deposit RM100; h9am-6pm) at the information desk in the underground mall across from the KL City Gallery. Rentals include a helmet.

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Top Tip

Masjid Jamek at Night

Masjid Jamek is stunning when lit up at night, and one of the best places to view it is from the LRT Masjid Jamek station. Best viewing spots are at the glass wall on the way up to the platforms, and on the platforms themselves.

Eating

5Hong NgekCHINESE $

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This long-running Hokkien restaurant serves expertly made fried bee hoon (vermicelli noodles), ginger duck rice, crab balls and succulent pork ribs stewed in Guinness. There's air-con upstairs, but it’s more interesting to watch the world go by at a table on the naturally ventilated street level. The joint sometimes closes at 5.30pm, so don't be late for dinner.

(50 Jln Tun HS Lee; dishes RM6-7.50; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; jMasjid Jamek)

5Restoran Yusoof dan ZakhirINDIAN $

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This huge banana-yellow and palm-tree-green canteen opposite Central Market on the pedestrian street serves delicious mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) food; perfect for a roti or dosa and a curry-sauce snack. The fresh fruit drinks are also good here.

(Jln Hang Kasturi; dishes RM2-8; h6am-midnight; jPasar Seni)

5Kim Lian KeeNOODLES $

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Reputedly serving the best Hokkien mee in the city for the past 80 years, this old-school restaurant sits right in the heart of Petaling Street Market. Take your noodles upstairs for a view over the street or downstairs alleyside.

(49 Jln Petaling; Hokkien mee RM8, other dishes RM15-35; h5pm-4am)

5Restoran SantaINDIAN $

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You won't find any Christmas delights at this no-frills cafe but freshly made chapatis well loved by the surrounding Indian community. Paired with a side dish of curried chickpeas or dhal they are the perfect fast cheap snack if you need a break any time of day.

(11 Jln Tun HS Lee; chapati RM1.50; h6.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 6.30am-3pm Sat; jMasjid Jamek)

5Madras Lane HawkersHAWKER $

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Enter beside the Guandi Temple to find this alley of hawker stalls. It’s best visited for breakfast or lunch, with standout operators including the one offering 10 types of yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with tofu). The bak kut teh (pork rib soup) and curry laksa stalls are also good.

(Madras Lane; noodles RM5; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun; jPasar Seni)

5Chee Cheong Fun StallCHINESE $

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Just off Petaling St on Jln Hang Lekir, in the heart of the pedestrian area, this stall has been soothing early-morning appetites for decades with melt-in-the-mouth chee cheong fun (rice noodles) doused with sweet and spicy sauces and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. A few metres down is the Cantonese congee (rice porridge) stall Hon Kee.

(Cnr Jln Petaling & Jln Hang Lekir; noodles RM4-6; h7am-4pm Thu-Tue; v; gKota Raya)

Restaurants along Petaling Street

PETER HORREE/ALAMY ©

5Old China CaféMALAYSIAN, NONYA $$

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Housed in an old guild hall of a laundry association, this restaurant captures some of the charm of old KL with its high walls covered with bric-a-brac, and round marbletop tables. Try the beef rendang, the succulent Nonya fried chicken, and some unusual but tasty appetisers such as the stuffed top hats (a small pastry shaped like a hat in which you stuff veggies).

(%2072 5915; www.oldchina.com.my; 11 Jln Balai Polis; dishes RM11-32; h11am-11pm; jPasar Seni)

5Peter Hoe Beyond CafeINTERNATIONAL $$

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You may find the affable Mr Hoe himself serving at this supremely relaxing cafe in the corner of an arts-and-crafts shop in the historic Lee Rubber Building. Tuck into a great lunch of delicious quiche with masses of fresh salad, or just enjoy a cake and coffee in between forays around the stylishly merchandised retail space.

(2nd fl, Lee Rubber Bldg, 145 Jln Tun HS Lee; mains RM20-39; h10am-7pm, meals noon-3; W; jPasar Seni)

5LOKLINTERNATIONAL, MALAYSIAN $$

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From its clever name and slick design to its tasty twists on comfort foods, such as deep-fried Hainanese meatloaf sandwich and dessert toasties, LOKL ticks all the right boxes. This is also one of the few places in Chinatown to get a Western breakfast (8am to 11am). It's not obvious but there's an internal courtyard with outdoor seating at the back.

(www.loklcoffee.com; 30 Jln Tun H S Lee; mains RM15-22; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; jMasjid Jamek)

5Precious Old ChinaMALAYSIAN, NONYA $$

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Run by the owners of Old China Café, this restaurant inside Central Market has an upscale, Shangai-1930s look, with lacquered chairs and pricey porcelain on display, but serves similar excellent Southeast Asian and Nonya dishes. Try the bitter gourd soup for something different. The restaurant also functions as a bar if you just want a drink.

(%2273 7372; www.oldchina.com.my; Mezzanine fl, Central Market, Jln Hang Kasturi; dishes RM8-23; h11am-late; jPasar Seni)

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Local Life

Breakfast in Chinatown

Breakfast in mainland China can be dreadful, but in KL's Cantonese-heavy Chinatown, it's a treat. Just off Petaling St on Jln Hang Lekir, in the heart of the pedestrian area, are two stalls that have been soothing early-morning appetites for decades. Chee Cheong Fun Stall serves melt-in-the-mouth chee cheong fun (rice noodles) doused with sweet and spicy sauces and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. A few metres down is the equally good Cantonese congee (rice porridge) stall Hon Kee ( GOOGLE MAP ; 93 Jln Hang Lekir; congee RM5; h4.30am-3pm; gKota Raya). Frog-leg congee is its speciality.

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Local Life

Outdoor Eating in Chinatown

Along Jln Sultan, restaurants offer roadside BBQ, seafood, and cheap(ish) beers at night. Morning and early afternoon head to Madras Lane (enter beside Guandi Temple) for curry laksa, bak kut teh (pork rib soup), yong tau fu (vegetables stuffed with tofu) and other local specialities.

Some reputable hawker stalls are crammed in tiny alleyways. Lian Bee ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun Tan Chen Lock; h4.30-10pm Wed-Mon), beside the famous Kedai Kopi Lai Foong hawker stall court on Jln Tun Tan Chen Lock, has been selling well-loved Hokkien mee since the 1950s.

Understand

The Kapitan of Kuala Lumpur

Few would deny the massive contribution Chinese immigrants have made to the development of KL. In the 19th century they came in large numbers to work the tin mines, and many became self-made tycoons within a very short time. Not surprisingly, the most successful have left their names across the city: from streets and buildings (Jln Tun HS Lee; Jln Yap Kwan Seng; Loke Mansion; Lee Rubber Building) to entire districts (Chow Kit), as well as various hospitals, schools and philanthropic societies.

The most famous Chinese immigrant to KL was undoubtedly Yap Ah Loy, the man now widely credited as the city’s founder. He was 17 when he left his village in Guangdong, in southern China, in search of work in Malaya. Fifteen years later, in 1868, he had reached the highest position possible in the city’s ethnic communities.

Yap began working life as a coolie, and soon his drive, fighting skills and talents with men made him assistant to the Kapitan Cina. The Kapitan post was created as a bridge between the colonial masters and the often unruly ethnic groups they governed. Elected by the community but appointed by the colonial government, they acted like governors and could enact laws and collect taxes.

When the current Kapitan Cina, Liu Ngim Kong, died in 1868, Yap was appointed as his successor. Through his control of the tin trade, as well as opium trading and prostitution, which thrived in the mining boomtown, he became exceptionally wealthy. It is estimated that in 1880 he owned 64 of the 200 houses in KL. This number only increased after he oversaw the rebuilding of KL (from wood and attap to the brick shophouses and arcades one sees today) after the great flood and fire in 1881.

When he died in 1885, Yap Ah Loy was the city's richest man, and so loved, feared and respected that government offices were closed on the day of his funeral. Today his name is found rather incongruously on the city's shortest street. More fittingly, he was canonised in 1956 by Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, which he founded.

Today, you can visit Yap Ah Loy's grave in the sprawling    Kwong Tong Cemetery south of the Royal Museum.

Drinking

6Omakase + AppreciateCOCKTAIL BAR

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This cosy, retro cocktail bar is one of KL's top secret drinking spots. Sip sophisticated concoctions such as an Earl Grey Mar-tea-ni. Part of the fun is finding the entrance: look for the sign saying 'no admittance'.

(www.facebook.com/OmakaseAppreciate; Basement, Bangunan Ming Annexe, 9 Jln Ampang; h5pm-1am Tue-Fri, 9pm-1am Sat; W; jMasjid Jamek)

6Reggae BarBAR

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Travellers gather in droves at this pumping bar in the thick of Chinatown, which has outdoor seats if you’d like to catch the passing parade. There are beer promos, pool tables and pub grub served till late.

(www.reggaebarkl.com; 158 Jln Tun HS Lee; h11.30am-late; jPasar Seni)

6Aku Cafe & GalleryCAFE

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Set in a long narrow shophouse that seems to go on forever, this relaxed coffee haunt serves good hand-drip brews starting at RM10. There are also flavoured drinks such as mint and lemon iced coffee, cakes, and light kopitiam-style meals. Exhibitions change on a monthly basis and there are some nice local craft souvenirs for sale.

(%2857 6887; www.facebook.com/akucafegallery; 1st fl, 8 Jln Panggong; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; W; jPasir Seni)

6Moontree HouseCAFE

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This is a quiet space for a well-prepared hand-drip or syphon coffee in an old shophouse on the edge of Chinatown. Coffee beans are mostly directly sourced and include the local Johor-grown Liberica and Peabody Liberica. The latter makes for a sweet and slightly pungent ice-dripped coffee. The shop also sells cute handicrafts and feminist literature.

(www.moontree-house.blogspot.com; 1st fl, 6 Jln Panggong; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon; W; jPasar Seni)

6Koong Woh TongTEAHOUSE

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This little herbal drink shop is part of a Chinese chain that has spread into Southeast Asia. It sits at the northern mouth of Petaling Street Market, resplendent with its golden interior, and sells refreshing traditional herbal drinks. Try the musky Lou Kat or the refreshing Five Flower drink.

(cnr Jln Petaling & Jln Tun Tan Cheong Lock)

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Top Tip

Chinatown Bars

There are a couple of more formal bars in Chinatown, but most visitors prefer to sink cold beers at the open-air restaurants around Petaling Street Market. Some of the backpacker digs have bars open to the public, including Reggae Mansion ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2072 6877; www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion; 49-59 Jln Tun HS Lee; dm RM50-55, d RM140-200; aiW; jMasjid Jamek), which runs the open-air Rooftop Skybar. Precious Old China in Central Market also functions as a bar and is open till late. Drinking in public is not illegal, but it's best to avoid offence to Muslim sensibilities by not drinking in Merdeka Square or other public areas.

Entertainment

3Kelantan Shadow Puppet PlayPUPPET THEATRE

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There are daily live performances of Kelantan's brilliant wayang kulit (shadow puppetry) here. Kelantan is a centre for this folk art in which stories of the Ramayana epic are retold with accompanying music. However, performances in that state have been banned for decades under the conservative government, which considers it haram (sinful) because of its non-Islamic roots.

Located in the underground mall at Merdeka Square (buy tickets at KL City Gallery).

(%012-321 5937; www.beringinemas.com; 70 Plaza Dataran Merdeka; RM30; h3pm daily; jMasjid Jamek)

3Panggung BandarayaTHEATRE

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Originally designed as City Hall by famed British colonial architect AB Hubback, this handsome 1896 building with distinctive black domes has been refitted into one of KL's most beautiful theatrical spaces. The intimate auditorium's design is based on the shape of a Malaysian kite. Check with Visit KL for the latest shows.

(DBKL City Theatre; Jln Tun Perak; jMasjid Jamek)

Panggung Bandaraya

BRUCE YUANYUE BI/GETTY IMAGES ©

3Petaling Street Art HouseLIVE PERFORMANCE

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This intimate shophouse-based venue is keeping tradition alive in Chinatown with live performances of opera (Cantonese, Teochow and Hokkien varieties), puppetry, folk-music concerts and movies. Most events are in Chinese but don't let that stop you from attending. Check its Facebook page for upcoming events (ideally with a translating app).

(%3326 2295; www.facebook.com/petalingstreet.arthouse; 55 1A Jln Sultan)

3Muzium MusikLIVE MUSIC

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This new museum of Malaysian music was about to open at press time and promised live performances as well as exhibits on the history and variety of traditional music. The building itself is one of the most striking around Merdeka Square (it was formerly the Chartered Bank Building, built in 1891).

(Jln Raja, Merdeka Sq; jMasjid Jamek)

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Local Life

Chin Woo Stadium

This historic sports stadium ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2072 4602; www.chinwoo.org.my; Jln Hang Jebat ; swimming adult/child RM5/2; h2-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun; jPasar Seni) sits atop a hill overlooking Chinatown. The highlight here is its 50m outdoor pool. If you're keen for a dip, note that all swimsuits must be tight-fitting, ie no baggy shorts even with an inner mesh lining, and you need a swimming cap as well. In the stadium itself various yoga classes are held every Monday at 7.30pm and there are badminton courts (racquets can be hired).

Shopping

7Central Market ShopsARTS, CRAFTS

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This 1930s art deco building houses dozens of shops selling Malaysian arts and crafts including batik clothing and hangings, songket (fine cloth woven with silver and gold thread), wau bulan (moon kites), baskets, Royal Selangor pewter and Nonya ceramics (real and good reproductions), as well as vintage items from daily life. You can often bargain the price down 10% to 20%.

(www.centralmarket.com.my; Jln Hang Kasturi; h10am-10pm; jPasar Seni)

Central Market

JOHN SONES SINGING BOWL MEDIA/GETTY IMAGES ©

7Peter Hoe BeyondARTS, CRAFTS

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On the 2nd floor of the historic Lee Rubber Building, Peter Hoe's charming emporium fills nearly 900 sq metres with all manner of original fabric products such as tablecloths, curtains and robes (many hand-printed in India directly for Peter Hoe), as well as woven baskets, hanging lanterns, embroidered cushions, silverware, candles, and knick-knacks galore. A KL institution.

(%2026 9788; 2nd fl, Lee Rubber Bldg, 145 Jln Tun HS Lee; h10am-7pm)

7Junk BookstoreBOOKS

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One of KL's best secondhand bookstores, with thousands of titles piled high on a couple of jam-packed floors. Ask staff to show you their selection of antique local titles, but don't expect to get them for bargain prices! Bring a mask if you suffer from allergies.

(%2078 3822; 78 Jln Tun HS Lee; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat; jMasjid Jamek)

7House of RinpoANTIQUES

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In the underground mall at the southern end of Merdeka Square, this small antique shop is run as a hobby by affable Uncle Khoo. The quality of items varies but there are usually some good finds to be had among the ceramics, paintings, and daily life items from the past (we found a hand-painted kerosene lamp from the 1940s).

(Plaza Dataran Merdeka; h10am-6pm; jMasjid Jamek)

7Purple Cane Tea ArtsTEA

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One of several specialist tea shops in Chinatown where you can sample and buy Chinese teas (mostly puer), plus all the tea-making paraphernalia to go with them.

(www.purplecane.com.my; 11 Jln Sultan; h10am-7pm)

7Petaling Street MarketMARKET

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Malaysia’s relaxed attitude towards counterfeit goods is well illustrated at this heavily hyped night market bracketed by fake Chinese gateways. Traders start to fill Jln Petaling from midmorning until it is jam-packed with market stalls selling everything from fake Gucci handbags to bunches of lychees. Visit in the afternoon if you want to take pictures or see the market without the crowds.

(Jln Petaling; hnoon-11pm; gKota Raya)

7Kwong Yik SengARTS, CRAFTS

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Looking for traditional Chinese teapots, bowls or a kitsch ornament for your mantlepiece? Your search is over at this shop specialising in new and antique-style china and porcelain. The Peranakan ware is not antique but still pretty, and given its association with the Baba Nonya (descendants of mixed Malay and Chinese, also known as Peranakan) it's worth considering if you want a gift that's unique to Malaysia.

(%2078 3620; 144 Jln Tun HS Lee; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; jPasar Seni)

7Sang KeeHANDICRAFTS

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A rattan cane and bamboo shop in business since 1920. Most items come from China.

(64 Jln Tun Perak; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri; jMasjid Jamek)

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Local Life

KL Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine

In 1997 a collective of second-generation Chinatown pharmacists started the KL Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2026 5273; www.klatcm.weebly.com; 138-140 Jln Petaling; h6.30pm-10pm Mon-Fri, 2.30-9pm Sat, 9am- 5pm Sun; jPasar Seni) to provide training for those wanting to learn the practices of traditional Chinese medicine. It offers a year-long course and operates as a drop-in clinic for patients.

Masjid India, Chow Kit & Kampung Baru

NANOPIXEL/ALAMY ©

Sprawling over the northern part of KL, these distinct ethnic neighbourhoods attract visitors with their markets, traditional foods, and in the case of Kampung Baru (the 'new village'), their very existence. The village was reserved for Malays by the colonial administration in the 1890s, and for better and for worse, is still a charming throwback to earlier days.

The Sights in a Day

M Take the monorail to Lake Titiwangsa, a popular spot for strolling and snapping pics of the city's skyline. Visit the nearby National Visual Arts Gallery to get the latest on contemporary Malaysian art, and check if there are any interesting shows worth taking in at Istana Budaya that night.

R Head back into town for lunch at Yut Kee, a Hainanese kopitiam (coffee shop) that has been around since 1928. Then take a taxi to Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery. There's a collection of small galleries here that offer a very informative and visual take on money, including how Islamic banking works. Afterwards, head to Chow Kit and slowly make your way to Kampung Baru. If it's Tuesday, Thursday or Sunday take the 2½-hour walking tour; otherwise follow ours (Click here).

N You'll have plenty of chances for snacking in the village, but save your appetite for dinner at the Coliseum Cafe, once a favourite haunt of Somerset Maugham. This is also one of few places to get a beer in the area. Next door are action-packed Indian movies at the Coliseum Theatre, or head back into the Golden Triangle for nightlife.

x  Best of Kuala Lumpur

Street Food & Food Courts

Kin Kin

Yut Kee

Capital Café

Entertainment

Sutra Dance Theatre

Istana Budaya

Museums & Galleries

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery

National Visual Arts Gallery

Green Spaces

Lake Titiwangsa

Heritage Buildings

Loke Mansion

Getting There

LRT Masjid Jamek for Masjid India area. Kampung Baru station for the southern edge of the village.

Monorail Chow Kit for Chow Kit Market and the northern edge of Kampung Baru. Titiwangsa station for Lake Titiwangsa.

u Taxi For the Bank Negara museum.

1 Sights

1Kampung Baru Walking Tour  D5

2Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery  A7

3Lake Titiwangsa  E1

4National Visual Arts Gallery  E2

5Sultan Sulaiman Club  D5

6Masjid Jamek Kampung Baru  D5

7Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara  C5

8Loke Mansion  C6

9Masjid India  B8

5 Eating

10Kin Kin  C6

11D'Istana Jalamas Café  D2

12Masjid India Hawker Court  C8

13Capital Café  B7

14Kak Som  D5

15Ikan Bakar Berempah  D5

16Coliseum Cafe  B8

17Yut Kee  C7

18Mungo Jerry  B5

19Saravanaa Bhavan  C8

3 Entertainment

20Sutra Dance Theatre  D1

21Istana Budaya  D2

22Coliseum Theatre  B8

Sights

1Kampung Baru Walking TourWALKING TOUR

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The latest walking tour from Visit KL takes you into the heart of the traditonal Malay village at the centre of the city. The tour covers not only the sites, such as the Masjid Jamek (mosque), Sultan Sulaiman Club and the beautiful old wood houses, but also traditional shops, popular dishes and food venues, and teaches basic Malay customs. Dress conservatively and bring an umbrella. If you can't do the tour, download the informative PDF from the website.

(%2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my/visitklv2; h4.30-7pm Tue, Thu & Sun)

Traditional Malay house, Kampung Baru

KEVIN CLOGSTOUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM

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This well-designed complex of small museums focuses on banking, finance and money and is not dull in the least. Highlights include a collection of ancient coins and money (and a slick interactive screen to examine their history), a gallery of the bank's private art collection, a surreal 3m-long tunnel lined with RM1 million (in the Children's Gallery), and a history of the little-known Islamic banking system (which must comply with sharia law, including prohibitions against usury).

(www.museum.bnm.gov.my; Sasana Kijang, 2 Jln Dato Onn; h10am-6pm; dBank Negara, then taxi)

1Lake TitiwangsaLAKE

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For a postcard-perfect view of the city skyline head to Lake Titiwangsa and the relaxing treed park that surrounds it. If you’re feeling energetic, hire a row boat, go for a jog, play some tennis, or explore the nearby neighbourhood of handsome bungalows. The park is a favourite spot for courting Malaysian couples and a 10-minute walk east of the monorail station.

(Taman Tasik Titiwangsa; Titiwangsa)

1National Visual Arts GalleryGALLERY

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Occupying a pyramid-shaped block, the NVAG showcases modern and contemporary Malaysian art. There are often interesting temporary shows of local and regional artists, as well as pieces from the gallery's permanent collection of 4000 pieces, including paintings by Zulkifi Moh'd Dohalan, Wong Hoi Cheong, Ahad Osman and the renowned batik artist Chuah Than Teng. Overall, though, the gallery lacks a wow factor.

(Balai Seni Lukis Negara; %4026 7000; www.artgallery.gov.my; 2 Jln Temerloh; h10am-6pm; Titiwangsa)

1Sultan Sulaiman ClubHISTORIC BUILDING

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Dating back to 1901 (some sources say 1909), this is the oldest Malay club in KL and said to be where the meetings took place that led to the United Malays National Organisation (UMNO; the lead party in the ruling coalition). The original club building was demolished in the late '60s. In 2007 a local architectural firm constructed an exact replica, which is located across from the new club at the back of a field.

(Bangunan Warisan Kelab Sultan Suleiman; Jln Datuk Abdul Razak; jKampung Baru)

1Masjid Jamek Kampung BaruMOSQUE

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Though founded in the late 1880s, the present mosque structure dates back to the 1950s. This is Kampung Baru's principal mosque. It sports a handsome gateway decorated with eye-catching tiles in traditional Islamic patterns. Stalls around the mosque sell religious paraphernalia, including white kopia and black songkok, the traditional head coverings for Malay Muslim men. Outside the mosque look for the map that shows the seven smaller villages that make up Kampung Baru.

(Jln Raja Alang; jKampung Baru)

1Tatt Khalsa Diwan GurdwaraSIKH TEMPLE

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This is the largest Sikh temple in Southeast Asia, and spiritual home of KL’s 75,000 Sikhs. There’s been a temple and school here since 1924, though the present building dates from the 1990s. Visitors can enter and see the main shrine with a guide but must wear a headscarf (head wrap for men, which will be provided at the entrance) and pants or long dress. There's a free vegetarian lunch on Sundays open to all visitors.

(24 Jln Raja Alang; Chow Kit)

1Loke MansionHISTORIC BUILDING

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Rescued from the brink of dereliction by the law firm Cheang & Ariff, Loke Mansion was once the home of self-made tin tycoon Loke Yew. The Japanese high command also set up base here in 1942. After years of neglect, the mansion has been beautifully restored; access to the interior is by appointment only, but you're welcome anytime to pause in the driveway and admire the whitewashed exterior.

(%2691 0803; 273A Jln Medan Tuanku; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

1Masjid IndiaMOSQUE

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The original wooden mosque that gives the area its name, Masjid India was built in 1883 but replaced by a bulky red granite tiled modern structure in 1963. It's not much to look at, and you can't go inside, but it's fronted by a busy market and surrounded by stalls selling religious items and traditional Malay costumes. The area's famous Saturday pasar malam (night market) runs along Lg TAR behind the mosque.

(http://masjidindia.com; Jln Masjid India; jMasjid Jamek)

Understand

Kampung Baru

A kampung is a village, and in Kuala Lumpur, which still has a number of urban kampungs, there is none so famous as Kampung Baru, literally the 'new village'. In the shadow of the Petronas Towers across the Klang River, this Malay stronghold is still largely a community of wood houses, food courts, traditional shops, and a place where children and chickens can run free.

As its name suggests, Kampung Baru is not terribly old. In the late 1890s the British authorities, worried about the declining number of Malay residents in the capital, gazetted 89.4 hectares as a Malay Agricultural Settlement, and in 1900 relocated Malays from the Masjid Jamek area.

The first census in 1928 showed there were 544 households and 2600 villagers. The Malays themselves divided their numbers into seven villages, according to ancestral origins, which included Malacca and Java. Intervillage marriage, and even play among children, was restricted.

Kampung Baru saw the first Malay club develop, and it played a positive role in the anti-colonial protests that led to independence. By the 1960s, however, it was falling behind the rest of the city. Resentment over this is said to have contributed to the village being a centre for violence during the 1969 race riots (which pitted Malays against the more prosperous Chinese).

In the coming decades Kampung Baru also became physically separated from the rest of the city, as dike walls, and later the Petronas Towers and LRT construction, left it a near orphan on the wrong side of the river. Even today it is a startling shift to go one LRT stop from KLCC to Kampung Baru.

Revitalisation of the village is always said to be around the corner, but when it really comes, it won't be easy. Two administrations and competing laws govern the small slice of land, and property titles are incredibly complex: there are an estimated 4200 beneficiaries across 880 separate lots. In 2011 the Kampung Baru Development Corporation was formed, with the promise that this time things would be different. In late 2014 the Sunday Market grounds were razed, a sign that perhaps change is truly coming to this pocket of KL stuck in time.

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Local Life

Multicultural Markets

On Saturday nights in Masjid India look for the Pasar Malam (Night Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Lg Tuanku Abdul Rahman; h3pm-midnight Sat; jMasjid Jamek). Among the sari and scarf stalls, hawkers sell excellent Chinese, Malay and Indian snacks and drinks.

Bazaar Baru Chow Kit (Chow Kit Market; GOOGLE MAP ; 469-473 Jln TAR; h8am-5pm; Chow Kit) is a daily wet and sundry market serving the Chinese and Malay working class of Chow Kit. You can sample hawker and kopitiam food and drinks.

Kampung Baru was known for its Saturday/Sunday pasar minggu, a mostly Malay affair, but in 2014 the market area was razed. Tourism officials expect vendors will return at some point at a different location.

Pasar Malam night market

HOLGER LEUE/LOOK-FOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Understand

Bumiputra Privileges

When the New Economic Policy (NEP) was introduced in 1971 its aim was that 30% of Malaysia’s corporate wealth be in the hands of indigenous Malays, or bumiputra (‘princes of the land’), within 20 years. A massive campaign of positive discrimination began, which handed majority control over the army, police, civil service and government to Malays. By 1990 a new Malay middle class had emerged; however, cronyism and discrimination against Indians and Chinese also increased.

Affirmative action programs continue to this day (under the NEP successor the National Development Policy), and according to the World Bank, these policies are a significant cause of migration out of Malaysia, especially of highly skilled workers. For travellers to KL, it is hard not to note the lack of Chinese and Indians working in banks and government institutions. The segregated education system has also led to a noticeable deterioration in English skills among younger Malays, but also ethnic Chinese who now tend to focus on Mandarin instruction.

Eating

5Kin KinCHINESE $

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Everyone in KL knows this bare-bones shop and the famous dish it serves: chilli pan mee. These 'dry' noodles, topped with a soft boiled egg, minced pork, ikan bilis (small, deep-fried anchovies), fried onion and a special spicy chilli sauce, are one of the city's taste sensations. If you don't eat pork, staff do a version topped with mushrooms.

(40 Jln Dewan Sultan Sulaiman; noodles RM7; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat & Sun; Medan Tuanku)

5D’Istana Jalamas CaféMALAYSIAN $

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The cafe at Istana Budaya (the national theatre) offers a serve-yourself buffet of Malay and mamak (Muslim Indian-Malay) favourites such as fish-head curry, as well as salads, snacks and fresh fruit. Try the local coffee: it's filtered here and not simply a powdered mix. Balcony seats overlook nearby Titiwangsa Park. If there's a show at the theatre the cafe is open on weekends.

(Jln Tun Razak, Lake Titiwangsa; mains RM5-10; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri; Titiwangsa)

5Masjid India Hawker CourtHAWKER $

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A bustling covered hawker court serving all the usual Malay, Indian and Chinese favourites. Good to visit if you can’t make it to the Saturday pasar malam.

(Jln Masjid India; dishes RM2-10; h8am-9pm; jMasjid Jamek)

5Capital CaféMALAY $

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Since it opened in 1956 this truly Malaysian cafe has had Chinese, Malays and Indians all working together in the same space. Try its excellent mee goreng or rojak (salad doused in a peanut-sauce dressing) or satay (only available in the evenings).

(213 Jln TAR; dishes RM4-6; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; jBandaraya)

5Kak SomMALAYSIAN $

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Specialising in east coast peninsular Malaysian dishes such as nasi kerabu (blue rice), this is a good place to dine inexpensively on the main Kampung Baru restaurant strip. Take your pick of items from the buffet along with rice, sit down and the waitstaff will come to take a drink order and tally up your bill.

(Jln Raja Muda Musa; meals RM7; h8am-3am; jKampung Baru)

5Ikan Bakar BerempahHAWKER $

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This excellent barbecued-fish stall sits within a hawker-stall market covered by a zinc roof. Pick your fish off the grill and add kampung-style side dishes to it off the long buffet.

(Jln Raja Muda Musa; meals RM5-10; h7am-12.30pm & 5-10pm; jKampung Baru)

5Coliseum CafeINTERNATIONAL $$

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Little seems to have changed here since Somerset Maugham tucked into its famous sizzling steaks and Hainan Chicken Chops – we wouldn't be surprised if he remembered some of the same wait staff if he could pop back in today. Opened in 1921, the cafe is Malaysia's longest-running Western restaurant. Though far less polished than the Majestic Hotel, it's much more locally loved, and the food truly hits the spot.

(%2692 6270; 100 Jln TAR; dishes RM13-49, weekday set lunches RM24-29; h10am-10pm; jMasjid Jamek)

5Yut KeeCHINESE, WESTERN $$

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In 2014 this beloved Hainanese kopitiam, in business since 1928, was forced to move round the corner to its present location. With much of the old furnishings the same, the new shop is a reasonable facsimile, and the food hasn't changed: try the chicken chop, roti babi (French toast stuffed with pork), toast with homemade kaya (coconut-cream jam), or Hokkien mee.

(%2698 8108; 1 Jln Kamunting; meals RM6-15; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun; jDang Wangi)

5Mungo JerryCHINESE $$

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This late-night supper hot spot on the edge of Chow Kit is a bare-bones joint famous for its chilli-infused pork curry stew, bak kut teh, as well as the original more soupy version. Locals will tell you the quality has dropped in recent years as the original owner has left the cooking to his helpers, but you are unlikely to notice.

(292 Jln Raja Laut; dishes RM8-12; h5pm-2.30am; jSultan Ismail)

5Saravanaa BhavanINDIAN $$

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This global chain of restaurants offers some of the best-quality Indian food you'll find in KL. Their banana-leaf and mini-tiffin feasts are supremely tasty and you can also sample southern Indian classics such as masala dosa (rice-and-lentil crêpe stuffed with spiced potatoes).

(%2698 3293; www.saravanabhavan.com; 52 Jln Maarof, Bangsar; meals RM10-20; h8am-11pm; v)

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Top Tip

Ramadan in the Village

Kampung Baru is a great area to visit during Ramadan, when street markets offer delicacies prepared specially to break the daily fast. The Ramadan Street Bazaar runs along Jln Raja Alang and Jln Raja Muda Musa between 4pm and 8pm daily. Among the delicacies to try are bubur lambuk (rice porridge).

Entertainment

3Sutra Dance TheatreDANCE

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The home of Malaysian dance legend Ramli Ibrahim, who once again wowed New York on tour in 2014, has been turned into a showcase for Indian classical dance as well as a dance studio, painting and photography gallery and cultural centre near Lake Titiwangsa. See its website for upcoming events.

(www.sutrafoundation.org.my; 12 Persiaran Titiwangsa 3, Titiwangsa; Titiwangsa)

3Istana BudayaPERFORMING ARTS

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Big-scale drama and dance shows are staged here, as well as music performances by the National Symphony Orchestra and National Choir. The building's soaring roof is based on a traditional Malay floral decoration of betel leaves, while the columned interior invokes a provincial colonialism. There’s a dress code of no shorts, and no short-sleeved shirts.

(National Theatre; %4026 5555; www.istanabudaya.gov.my; Jln Tun Razak, Titiwangsa; tickets RM100-300; Titiwangsa)

3Coliseum TheatreCINEMA

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One of KL's oldest still-functioning cinemas, this art-deco-style building dates back to 1920 and screens Indian-language movies.

(94 Jln TAR; jMasjid Jamek)

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Top Tip

Pusaka: Revealing & Preserving Tradition

Check the Facebook page of NGO Pusaka (www.facebook.com/pages/Pusaka/161861580538209), which means 'tradition', to get updates on traditional art events around Kuala Lumpur. The group has been working for years to keep Malaysian arts alive by both introducing them to the general public, and by training a new generation in such forms as wayang kulit (shadow puppetry), mak yong (dance-theatre) and also various Chinese performing arts. Shows are by donation and often feature some outstanding older performers and the occasional young phenom.

Other arts groups to follow are Kakiseni (www.facebook.com/mykakiseni), Daily Seni (www.facebook.com/DailySeni) and MapKl (www.facebook.com/mapkl).

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Local Life

Semua House Wedding Shop

Two floors of Indian wedding shops can be found at this department store ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Masjid India and Jln Bunus 6; h10am-10pm), right in the heart of Masjid Jamek. The perfume selection at the entrance is particularly impressive.

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Top Sights

Batu Caves

One of Malaysia's national treasures, and holiest Hindu sites, this complex of giant limestone caves houses temples that have been drawing pilgrims for more than 120 years. The American naturalist William Hornaday is credited with discovering the caves in 1878, though they were already known to Chinese settlers and of course to the local indigenous peoples. The caves are always an atmospheric, colourful (some might say joyfully tacky) and fascinating place to visit and no more so than in late January or early February when one million pilgrims converge during the three-day Thaipusam festival.

Getting There

Batu Caves are 13km north of KL central.

u from KL is easiest.

d KTM Komuter train to Batu Caves.

THIEN DO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Temple Cave free, other caves admission charges apply; h8am-8.30pm; dBatu Caves

y Top Tips

A Combine an afternoon visit to the caves with a morning exploration of the nearby Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia.

A Try to schedule a visit to include the Dark Cave tour. Gaining an understanding of the cave's rich natural history makes a visit that much more rewarding.

A If taking a taxi back to KL, look out for a dramatic coxcomb-like ridge to the east. That's Tabur, reportedly the largest quartz ridge-line in the world.

5 Take a Break

There is an obvious block of restaurants and stands on the right as you approach the stairs to Temple Cave. Try Rani Vilas Restoran (Batu Caves; RM5-10; h7am-10pm) for excellent veggie thali sets, rotis and dosa.

Don't Miss

Temple Cave

In 1891, K Thambusamy Pillai, founder of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in KL, established a shrine to Lord Murugan at Batu Caves. At the foot of 272 steps leading up to the main dome-shaped cavern stands a 42.5m gaudy golden statue of Murugan, son of Shiva, and Hindu god of war. Inside the first cavern the lord's six abodes are carved into the walls, while a second cavern holds the temple of Valli Devanai, his wife. Prayer times are held at 8.30am and 4pm.

Dark Cave

At step 204, branch off to the Dark Cave to follow a 45-minute guided tour (%012-371 5001; www.darkcavemalaysia.com; adult/child RM35/25; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun; dBatu Caves) along 800m of the 2km of surveyed passageways within seven different chambers. Dramatic limestone formations including gorgeous flowstones, pits used for guano extraction, two species of bats and hundreds of other life forms, including the rare trapdoor spider, make this a fascinating excursion. Tours run every 20 minutes.

Ramayana Cave

Perhaps no cave at Batu is more spectacularly over-embellished and enjoyable than the Ramayana Cave (admission RM5; h8.30am-6pm; dBatu Caves), which boasts gaudy dioramas of the Indian epic Ramayana. Near the entrance, look for the giant Gulliver-like statue of Kumbhakarna, brother of Ravana and a deep sleeper (he once snoozed for six months). Further up the narrow but towering cave interior, past two artificial flowing streams, is a shrine to a naturally occurring linga. This phallic-like stalagmite is a symbol of Shiva.

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Top Sights

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM)

Birdsong and wall-to-wall greenery replaces the drone of traffic at the Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia. Covering nearly 600 hectares, the institute was established in 1929 to research the sustainable management of Malaysia's rainforests. For visitors and locals, FRIM functions as a giant park, with quiet roads for cycling and well-established trails through the jungle landscape. There's a wide variety of flora and native wildlife to discover, from leaf monkeys and colourful birds to indigenous fruit trees and rare old dipterocarps.

FRIM is 16km northwest of KL.

u Direct from KL is best.

d KTM Komuter train to Kepong Sentral then taxi.

Canopy walkway

WORLDFOTO/ALAMY ©

FRIM; %03-6279 7592; www.frim.gov.my; adult/child RM5.30/1.05, with DSRL camera extra RM5.30; h8.30am-7.30pm; dKTM Komuter to Kepong Sentral, then taxi

y Top Tips

A Mornings are best at FRIM as the canopy walkway closes in the afternoon, when heavy rain showers are more common.

A Buy tickets for the canopy walkway (and pick up a park map) at the souvenir shop/information centre. If no one is there, head directly up to the canopy walkway.

5 Take a Break

There's a canteen and cafe within the park but opening hours are erratic. A couple of small restaurants sit outside the main gates but it's best to bring your own supplies.

Don't Miss

Canopy Walkway

The highlight of FRIM is this canopy walkway (admission adult/child RM10.60/1.05; h9.30am-1.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun), hanging a vertigo-inducing 30m above the forest floor. The 200m walkway takes you right into the canopy, offering great views of the rainforest with the towers of KL rising in the distance behind.

Heading down from the walkway the trail picks its way through the jungle (following the water pipe) to a shady picnic area, where you can cool off in a series of shallow waterfalls. The return hike incorporating the walkway takes about two hours. Bring water with you.

Wooden Houses & Museum

At the far end of the soccer field, look for a couple of handsome traditional raised wooden houses built from hard cendol wood. Relocated from Malacca and Terenganu, the houses show regional variations such as in the use of roofing material (tile versus attap) and other features.

Drop by the museum (Forest Research Institute of Malaysia; h9am-noon & 2-4pm, closed Mon) near the information centre to learn more about the work of FRIM and the makeup of Malaysian forests.

Hiking & Biking

The quiet roads circling the park are ideal for strolling, and when the forest is set back from an adjacent field they offer an intriguing look at the many layers of vegetation. Numerous clearly marked trails also run through the reserve. Bikes can be rented outside the park for RM5 to RM8 per hour. If you have time, consider extending your ride around the leafy neighbouring village of Kepong.

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Local Life

Ampang Amble

The tin mining that fuelled KL's rise in the 19th century began here in Ampang and continued till the early 1980s. These days dredging sites have become lake parks, and the general area is one of the city's leafier – and wealthier – suburbs, a great place for strolling, admiring eclectic post-war bungalows, and dining and shopping at some of the city's best off-the-tourist-track venues.

Getting There

Ampang runs east of KLCC until you get to the eastern foothills.

u The best way to get anywhere in Ampang is by taxi or walking.

1 Jalan U-Thant & Jalan Ampang Hilir

Start at the intersection of Jln U-Thant and Jln Tun Razak. Jln U-Thant, one of KL's most charming roads, is canopied with massive rain and banyan trees, and dotted with handsome bungalows. Make your way up to Jln Ampang Hilir, another lovely road, until you reach the back of Great Eastern Mall.

2 Great Eastern Mall

This compact upscale mall ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greateasternmall.com.my; 303 Jln Ampang; h10am-10pm; jAmpang Park) has Ang Eng, a custom-made kebaya shop, and local shoemaker Thomas Chan. More surprising is Alexis Ampang ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4260 2288; www.alexis.com.my; Ground fl, Great Eastern Mall, 303 Jln Ampang; jAmpang Park), a bistro by day, and on weekend nights one of the city's top venues for live jazz music. Shows begin at 10pm.

3 My Batik Visitor Centre

Founded by artist Emilia Tan and set in a leafy compound, My Batik ( GOOGLE MAP ; %016 220 3190; www.mybatik.org.my; 333 Persiaran Ritchie, off Jln Ritchie; h8am-5pm; jAmpang Park, then taxi) sells colourful batik print fashions and offers demonstration sessions and DIY classes for adults and children (weekends are popular with families). Call to arrange workshop bookings. The al fresco Green Tomato Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/greentomatocafe.com.my; 333 Persiaran Ritchie, off Jln Ritchie; breakfast RM15-18; h8am-5pm) in the same compound serves all-day Western breakfast.

4 Taman Tasik

Giant trees continue to form a canopy as you head to Taman Tasik. The park has a pretty lake formed as a result of the tin mining that made KL rich (Ampang means 'dam'). This is a popular spot with Malay couples in the evenings. Stop for a stroll and a rojak, a traditional fruit dish.

5 Zaini Satay

The traffic-snarled walk to this satay stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Naan Corner, Jln Kerja Ayer Lama; satay RM.80-1.20; h6pm-midnight; jAmpang Park, then taxi) in a little food court in front of a 7-Eleven is worth it because the grandson of the 1960s King of Satay knows his business. This is likely the best satay you'll find in KL, with meat so tender and juicy you won't even need the peanut sauce.

6 Jalan Dagang

If you want to make a local smile, eat a durian. In season (June to August and usually again in December), make a detour to Jln Dagang, one of the top spots for fresh durian sold roadside. Musang King, a durian variety, has a creamy texture like custard, and is a good choice to begin your taste exploration with.

7 Taman TAR

A late-afternoon stroll around Taman TAR on Jln 1 is a treat. You'll be accompanied by plenty of happy locals breathing deep the fresh air coming off the jungle. The loop takes 40 minutes; round the north side of the golf course you'll often see troops of macaque and leaf monkeys.

8 Tamarind Springs

One of KL's best secret restaurants is this open-air Indo-Chinese venue ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4256 9300; Jln 1, Taman TAR, Selangor; dishes RM30-90; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11.30pm) set in the jungle. When you dream of an exotic Southeast Asian vacation with succulent food served in lush surroundings, this is probably what you have in mind. Make reservations.

Lake Gardens & Brickfields

RITHAUDDIN PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES ©

The colonialists may have built the green oasis of the Lake Gardens, but the Malaysians have put their mark on it with a new name, a bird park and a ring of excellent museums. Brickfields, by contrast, got its start as a place where – you guessed it – bricks were made, and today is a dense, vibrant Indian neighbourhood, rewarding for urban exploration and street-food sampling.

The Sights in a Day

M Hit the Royal Museum when it opens at 9am – ask your taxi driver to take you via Kwong Tong Cemetery. After exploring the vast mansion head to the National Museum, visit the lower floors, and then take a taxi to the KL Bird Park. If you need lunch first, try its Hornbill Restaurant.

R After a couple of hours with the birds, head across the street for a quick look at the Orchid & Hibiscus Gardens. If you want to see Lake Perdana, catch the park's electric shuttle bus. Or go directly to the Islamic Arts Museum to tick off its highlights. When the museum closes at 5pm head to the Old KL Train Station to see one of KL's most iconic colonial buildings.

N For a fine meal in fine surroundings check into the Colonial Cafe. Or head to Brickfields, KL's Little India, for vegetarian delights at Annalakshmi; there's a good gift shop here too. Check if the Temple of Fine Arts is having a show. Otherwise, stroll around Brickfields; many temples and shrines are open until 9pm.

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Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

Royal Museum

Islamic Arts Museum

x  Best of Kuala Lumpur

Street Food & Food Courts

Little India Fountain Hawker Stalls

Museums & Galleries

Islamic Arts Museum

Royal Malaysia Police Museum

National Museum

Royal Museum

Wei-Ling Gallery

Green Spaces

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

Kwong Tong Cemetery

Religious & Heritage Buildings

Sree Veera Hanuman Temple

Masjid Negara

Old KL Train Station

Getting There

Monorail KL Sentral or Tun Sambanthan for Brickfields.

LRT KL Sentral for Brickfields.

d Train KTM Komuter Train Kuala Lumpur station for Lake Gardens. KL Sentral for Brickfields.

g Bus KL Hop-On Hop-Off buses between destinations in and around Lake Gardens.

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Top Sights

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park

This lush, 101-hectare landscaped park is better known, and more aptly described, by its colonial-era moniker: the Lake Gardens. This is KL's largest green space, and you can spend hours exploring the rolling terrain. The top sight is the sprawling Bird Park, but there are other worthies nearby, including two of KL's best museums connected by a stroll through flower gardens followed by tour along the lake.

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Lake Gardens; www.visitkl.gov.my/visitklv2; h7am-8pm; gKL Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus Tour, dKuala Lumpur

KL Bird Park

CHRISTIAN KOBER 1/ALAMY ©

y Top Tips

A Visit the Bird Park and gardens in the morning and museums in the afternoon to avoid being caught outdoors in the rain.

A The KL Hop-On Hop-Off shuttle will get you to the Bird Park and lake. For transport around the park there is an electric shuttle (adult/child RM2/1) from 9amto 5pm.

A All the roads in the park are lined with wide sidewalks and there are many pedestrian-only trails.

5 Take a Break

Head to the Bird Park's own Hornbill Restaurant for Western and Malay staples, best enjoyed (with the free flying fowl) on the wood deck overlooking the park. For something more local try the hawker stalls at Kompleks Makan Tanglin.

Don't Miss

KL Bird Park

This fabulous 21-acre aviary ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2272 1010; www.klbirdpark.com; Jln Cenderawasih; adult/child RM48/38; h9am-6pm; dKuala Lumpur) houses some 3000 birds representing 200 species of (mostly) Asian birds. The park is divided into four sections: in the first two birds fly freely beneath an enormous canopy. Section three features the native hornbills (so-called because of their enormous beaks), while section four offers the less-edifying spectacle of caged species.

Gardens

At the northern edge of the lake is the Perdana Botanical Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2617 6404; www.klbotanicalgarden.gov.my; h7am-8pm; c; dKuala Lumpur) showcasing a wide variety of native and overseas plants, with sections dedicated to ferns, rare trees, medicinal herbs and so on. Free guided walks are offered on Sundays at 8am and 10am.

Directly across from the Bird Park are the Orchid & Hibiscus Gardens (Taman Orkid (9am-6pm; admission Sat & Sun RM; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Cenderawasih; admission Sat & Sun RM1, Mon-Fri free; h9am-6pm; dKuala Lumpur), that wind up and then down a hillside, and display hundreds of species of orchids and hibiscus, the latter Malaysia's national flower.

Royal Malaysia Police Museum

One of KL's best small museums ( GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Jln Perdana; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed 12.30-2.30pm Fri; dKuala Lumpur) offers a fascinating history of Malaysia through the story of policing. Discover not just the uniforms that distinguished British- from Dutch- from Sultan-era law enforcers, but also the crime issues that plagued them. The standout display, though, is the gallery of weapons, from handmade guns and knives to automatic weapons, hand grenades and swords, all seized from members of criminal ‘secret societies’ and communists during the Emergency.

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Top Sights

Islamic Arts Museum

This striking-looking museum holds the largest collection of Islamic arts in Southeast Asia. If a museum can present an argument, this one presses that the rich heritage of Islam extends far beyond the Middle East. Hence, in addition to pieces from Iran, Syria and Turkey, you'll find entire sections devoted to Islamic art from China, India, and various Southeast Asian nations as well as themed displays on architecture, armour, coins, manuscripts, ceramics and more.

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Muzium Kesenian Islam Malaysia; %2274 2020; www.iamm.org.my; Jln Lembah Perdana; adult/child RM14/7; h10am-6pm; dKuala Lumpur

DORLING KINDERSLEY LTD/ALAMY ©

y Top Tips

A Allow at least three hours to cover the museum exhibits.

A The gift shop has an excellent selection of books and some decorative arts.

A Plan to combine a visit here with a day in the park – so remember your umbrella.

A There is a pedestrian underpass near the National Museum connecting it to Perdana Lake. Walking from here to the Islamic Arts Museum via KL Bird Park takes about an hour.

5 Take a Break

Just up the road at the KL Bird Park enjoy Malay or Western fare at the Hornbill Restaurant. For maximum convenience, the museum has its own restaurant (set lunch RM52), but we find the atmosphere cold and the food mediocre.

Don't Miss

Damascus Room

A Damascus Room is a style of winter reception chamber popular during the Ottoman period (1516–1918) in Syria's capital. The museum's stunning example was built in 1820. As is typical, the interior is composed of painted wood panels, and while it appears to be a single room it is actually divided into three sections marked by vaulted arches. There are so many details to admire here, from the ceiling woodwork, to the inlaid marble floor, to the inscribed poetry, to the murqarnas (stalactite wood features) of the wall niche.

Kiswah

Kiswah is the large black embroidered cloth used to cover the holy Kaaba (the cubic building at the centre of the most holy mosque of Mecca). The museum has an entire Kiswah on display, a rare sight as they are usually cut and distributed to pilgrims after the hajj.

Architecture Gallery

This popular gallery has scale models of important Islamic buildings including the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca (where the Kiswah-covered Kaaba sits), and the surviving traditional timber-framed mosques of Peninsular Malaysia. The latter were influenced by both Chinese and Indonesian architecture, as well as local vernacular styles, and look nothing like you expect of a mosque.

Qur'an & Manuscript Gallery

Look for the 19th-century Qurans from Malaysia's east coast decorated in red, gold and black as well as the wide collection of miniature paintings, one of the few art forms in Islam that show the human face and figure.

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Top Sights

Royal Museum

In 1928 Chinese tin tycoon Chan Wing built a mansion for his large family; it was later used as the residence of the Japanese Governor during KL's WWII occupation. In 1957 it became the National Palace, the residence of the king and queen of Malaysia. Finally, in 2011, with the opening of a new palace complex, the Royal Museum was born. After a restricted start, visitors are now permitted to tour the first two floors of the mansion, and wander the outside to take in the lush views

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Muzium Diraja; Jln Istana; adult/child RM10/5; h9am-5pm; u

JOE RAVI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

y Top Tips

A At the time of press there was talk of implementing a dress code so be prepared with pants or a sarong.

A The Kwong Tong Cemetery lies south of the museum and can be visited on the way to or from Thean Hou Temple.

5 Take a Break

Though it's just behind the museum, it can be tricky to reach Ikan Bakar Jalan Bellamy ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Bellamy; meals RM10; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat; Tun Sambanthan), a group of barbecued-fish hawker stalls that the king himself sometimes ordered grilled stingray from. Try to sneak up the road behind the Royal Museum bathrooms rather than walking the big loop from the carpark.

Just a few minutes' taxi ride away you can enjoy a meal in another handsome pre-war building at the Colonial Cafe.

Don't Miss

The Decor

The palace exterior, with its eclectic European style, looks much the same as it was in Chan Wing's day. But the interior was obviously altered to suit both royal tastes and royal needs. There are major and minor waiting rooms, a small throne room (for royal events), an office for the king, a family room (including KTV), and a dozen or so bedrooms for guests and family alike. Floral wallpaper, upholstered furniture, thick carpets, crystal chandeliers and some gaudy posters reveal the Downton Abbey–meets-'70s-suburbia tastes of the royals, though Malay colours and motifs remind you where you are.

The Dentist Room

You are sure to shudder when you see the royal dentist room, where family members were treated during weekly visits. Some visitors mistake this for a torture chamber when they first enter.

Kwong Tong Cemetery

This fascinating cemetery ( GOOGLE MAP ) lies directly south of the museum and is notable not just for its immense size (333 hectares of rolling grassy hills and fragrant frangipani trees) but the many notables buried within. These include Kapitan Yap Ah Loy, founder of KL. Chan Wing, the original owner of the Royal Museum building, is not buried here but his tin-mining partner, Cheong Yoke Choy, a noted philanthropist, is. There are also memorials to WWII dead. Pick up a map at the cemetery office.

1 Top Sights

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park  C3

Islamic Arts Museum  D3

Royal Museum  E6

1 Sights

1National Museum  C5

2Old KL Train Station  E4

3KTM Headquarters Building  D4

Brickfields Heritage Walk  B7

4Hundred Quarters  B7

5KL Butterfly Park  C2

6Vivekananda Ashram  B7

7Sri Kandaswamy Temple  E6

8Masjid Negara  D3

9Sree Veera Hanuman Temple  D5

10Sam Kow Tong Temple  C6

11Majestic Spa  D4

5 Eating

Annalakshmi Vegetarian Restaurant  C8

12Vishal  D5

13Kompleks Makan Tanglin  D3

14Jassal Tandoori Restaurant  C6

15Hornbill Restaurant  C3

16Fierce Curry House  A7

17Colonial Cafe  D4

6 Drinking

18MAI Bar  C6

19Tea Lounge  D4

20Drawing Room  A3

3 Entertainment

21Temple of Fine Arts  C8

7 Shopping

Lavanya Arts  C8

22Sonali  E6

23Wei-Ling Gallery  D5

24Nu Sentral  C6

Sights

1National MuseumMUSEUM

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Exhibit quality varies, but overall this museum offers a rich look at Malaysian history. The best exhibits are Early History, with artefacts from neolithic and Bronze Age cultures, and the Malay Kingdoms, which highlights the rise of Islamic kingdoms in the Malay Archipelago. Outside, look for a gorgeous traditional raised house; ancient burial poles from Sarawak; a regularly changing exhibition (extra charge); and two excellent small free side galleries, the Orang Asli Craft Museum and Malay World Ethnology Museum.

(Muzium Negara; %2282 6255; www.muziumnegara.gov.my; Jln Damansara; adult/child RM5/2; h9am-6pm; gHop-On-Hop-Off Bus Tour, dKL Sentral, then taxi)

1Old KL Train StationHISTORIC BUILDING

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One of KL's most distinctive colonial buildings, this 1910 train station (replaced as a transit hub by KL Sentral in 2001) is a grand if ageing structure designed by British architect AB Hubback in the Mughal (or Indo-Saracenic) style. The building's walls are white plaster, rows of keyhole and horseshoes arches provide ventilation on each level, and large chatri and onion domes adorn the roof. In 2014 Architectural Digest included it in its list of the 26 most beautiful train stations in the world.

(Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; dKuala Lumpur)

Old KL Train Station

CHRIS HELLIER / ALAMY ©

1KTM Headquarters BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING

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Reportedly the last of the Mughal (or Indo-Saracenic) buildings in KL, this handsome structure sits across from the Old KL Train Station. Grey where the train station is white, the building nonetheless mirrors much of the Mughal architecture, with rows of keyhole and horseshoe arches, onion domes and domed towers, and slim minarets. The building was completed in 1917 and is still in use.

(Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; dKuala Lumpur)

1Brickfields Heritage WalkWALKING TOUR

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This 2½-hour guided walk, sponsored by KL City Hall, is held every Saturday at 8.30am. It's not necessary to book in advance, though it is recommended. The meeting place is the Vivekananda Ashram.

(%2617 6273; www.visitkl.gov.my)

1Hundred QuartersHISTORIC BUILDINGS

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These wonderfully photogenic housing rows, known as the Hundred Quarters, were built in 1920 to house railway employees and other civil servants. The multi-ethnic road names, Jln Rozario and Jln Chan Ah Tong, refer to two former chief clerks of the colonial civil service. Sadly, the ongoing redevelopment of Brickfields has put these heritage buildings under threat; residents have been given notice to vacate, but likely the buildings will still be standing when you visit.

(Jln Rozario & Jln Chan Ah Tong; dKL Sentral)

1KL Butterfly ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE

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Billed as the largest enclosed butterfly garden in the world, this is a great place to get up close with a hundred or so of the 1100-plus butterfly species found in Malaysia, including the enormous and well-named birdwings, the elegant swallowtails, and the colourful tigers and jezebels. There’s also a bug gallery where you can shudder at the size of Malaysia’s giant centipedes and spiders.

(Taman Rama Rama; %2693 4799; www.klbutterflypark.com; Jln Cenderasari; adult/child RM20/10; h9am-6pm; dKuala Lumpur)

1Vivekananda AshramHERITAGE BUILDING

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This historic ashram, built in 1904, and part of the global Ramakrishna movement, is a well-loved subject for photographers. It also offers courses in yoga, as well as various social programs for the underprivileged. In 2014 the board of trustees sold the land with promises the old building would be preserved, though artist sketches show at best the ashram will be literally nestled under a glass-and-steel commercial high-rise.

(220 Jln Tun Sambanthan, Brickfields; dKL Sentral)

1Sri Kandaswamy TempleHINDU TEMPLE

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This temple, fronted by an elaborate modern gopuram (gateway) was founded by the Sri Lankan community in 1909 as a place to practise Shaiva Siddhanta, a major Hindu sect popular with the diaspora community. One of the temple's major events (it has many festivals) is the 10-day Mahotchava Festival held around May or June, with celebrations including processions of the painted wooden deities. Check the temple's Facebook page for detailed information and schedules.

(www.srikandaswamykovil.org; 3 Lg Scott; h5.30am-9pm; Tun Sambanthan)

1Masjid NegaraMOSQUE

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The main place of worship for KL’s Malay Muslim population is this gigantic mosque, inspired by Mecca’s Grand Mosque. Able to accommodate 15,000 worshippers, its umbrella-like blue-tile roof has 18 points symbolising the 13 states of Malaysia and the five pillars of Islam. Rising above the mosque, a 74m-high minaret issues the call to prayer, which can be heard across Chinatown. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit outside prayer times; robes are available for those who are not dressed appropriately.

(National Mosque; www.masjidnegara.gov.my/v2/; Jln Lembah Perdana; h9am-noon, 3-4pm & 5.30-6.30pm, closed Fri morning; dKuala Lumpur)

1Sree Veera Hanuman TempleHINDU TEMPLE

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Honouring Hanuman, this temple has been under reconstruction for years, and should be a striking sight when its gopuram is revealed: the tower rises with the coiled tail of the monkey god. Various puja (special prayer) services happen here – check the website for details.

(www.veerahanuman.com; Jln Scott; h7am-9pm; Tun Sambanthan)

1Sam Kow Tong TempleCHINESE TEMPLE

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Established in 1916 by the Heng Hua clan, the 'three teachings' temple has a beautiful Hokkien-style temple roof, with graceful curving ridgelines that taper at the ends like swallowtails. The colourful rooftop dragons, and other figures, are actually three-dimensional mosaics, another traditional decorative feature of southern Chinese temples (though these are new works). Inside look for photos of the original temple, a simple timber-frame structure with a thatched roof.

(16 Jln Thambapillai; h7am-5pm; dKL Sentral)

1Majestic SpaSPA

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Charles Rennie Macintosh's Willow Tea Rooms in Glasgow are the inspiration for the Majestic's delightful spa, where treatments are preceded by a refreshing tea or Pimms cocktail. After your pampering, there's a pool for a dip and sunbathe. A 90-minute massage starts at RM350.

(%2785 8000; www.majestickl.com; Majestic Hotel, 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; dKuala Lumpur)

Understand

We Built this City...with Bricks

In 1881, Kuala Lumpur, a town of wood and attap houses, burned to the ground. In the aftermath, brick became the material of choice for construction, a choice still evident in the look of KL's old neighbourhoods, and the name of one of its district.

Brickfields, as it is now called, was an area of abundant clay, and sat along the trade road into KL from the south; by the late 1880s nearly all of the kilns established to rebuild the city had been placed there. Later the KTM railway depot was constructed (now occupied by KL Sentral), and a large number of Sri Lankan and Indian Tamils brought in as railway employees and servants. Tamils have remarkably diverse religious backgrounds and today one finds in Brickfields Hindu and Buddhist temples, as well as Christian churches of various denominations.

In 2010 Brickfields was officially designated KL's 'Little India', what many considered a political move to win over voters. The neighbourhood is fast developing, but the streets from Jln Behara (Behara means 'shrine') northwest to Jln Tun Sambanthan, and Jln Scott, are still loaded with living heritage.

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Local Life

Sri Sakthi Vinayagar Temple

The original shrine ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Berhala) for Lord Vinayagar (the remover of obstacles) in Brickfields was a squatter shack on Jln Sultan Abdul Samad. Such was the humble start of many temples in this immigrant community. The current temple, reached via a short staircase, is still simple but has a tender devotional atmosphere, and inside one statue of Lord Vinayagar is made of bananas and brown sugar.

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Top Tip

Between the Gardens & Merdeka Square

The entrance to the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park near the Islamic Arts Museum is about 1km from Merdeka Square. You can easily walk between these two areas along Jln Raja Laut. Another option is to rent a bicycle at KL By Cycle at Merdeka Square.

Eating

5Annalakshmi Vegetarian RestaurantINDIAN $

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Long regarded as one of KL's best Indian vegetarian places, inside the fancy main hall at the Temple of Fine Arts, Annalakshmi has set prices at night and a daily lunch buffet for RM16; or you can choose to eat at the humbler Annalakshmi Riverside next to the car park behind the main building, where it's 'eat as you wish, give as you feel'.

(%2272 3799; www.facebook.com/AnnalakshmiVegetarianRestaurantKualaLumpur; Temple of Fine Arts, 116 Jln Berhala; h11.30am-3pm & 6.30-10pm Tue-Sun; v; dKL Sentral)

5VishalINDIAN $

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Punters sit at two long rows of tables for the great banana-leaf meals served up at this long-running Brickfields favourite. Good for tiffin snacks and a refreshing lassi, too. If this place is busy it's a very similar deal at Vishalatchi, further along the road and run by the same family.

(%2274 0502; 15 Jln Scott; meals RM5; h7am-10.30pm; v; Tun Sambanthan)

5Kompleks Makan TanglinHAWKER $

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This small hawker complex up the hill behind Masjid Negara is a popular lunch spot for nearby workers and local families visiting the Lake Gardens. Try the nasi lemak, Hokkien mee, or ikan bakar (grilled fish).

(Jln Cendarasari; meals RM5-10; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; dKuala Lumpur)

Ikan bakar (grilled fish)

SIMOM LONG/GETTY IMAGES ©

5Jassal Tandoori RestaurantINDIAN $$

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One of Brickfields' best sit-down Indian restaurants, Jassal serves outstanding tandoori specialties, what must be the city's best dhal makhani (thick dark spicy lentils), and a load of other tasty dishes including a variety of naans, rotis and parathas. Cheap Indian beer is also on offer.

(%2274 6801; www.jesalsweethouse.com; 84 Jln Tun Sambanthan; dishes RM12-23; h11am-11pm)

5Hornbill RestaurantMALAYSIAN, INTERNATIONAL $$

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Providing a ringside view of the feathered inhabitants of KL Bird Park, this rustic place offers good food without gouging the tourists too much. Go local with its nasi lemak and fried noodles, or please the kids with fish and chips or the homemade chicken or beef burgers.

(%2693 8086; www.klbirdpark.com; KL Bird Park, 920 Jln Cenderawashi; mains RM13-27; h9am-8pm; W; dKuala Lumpur)

5Fierce Curry HouseINDIAN $$

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There's outdoor and indoor seating at this biryani specialty restaurant just west of Little India in Bangsar. Choose from mutton, chicken, or even lobster (order the day before) biryanis, veggie thali sets (RM8) and banana-leaf meals on the weekend. This place hams itself up online but is actually very low-key.

(%2202 3456; www.facebook.com/FierceCurryHouse; 16 Jln Kemuja ; biryani RM15-18; h7.30am-10.30pm; Bangsar)

5Colonial CafeMALAYSIAN, INTERNATIONAL $$$

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British Malay cuisine, as interpreted by Hainanese chefs of yore, is on the menu at this elegant restaurant in the heritage wing of the Majestic, probably the best spot in KL to feel the privilege and grace of the colonial era. Highlights of the menu include the Caesar salad, chicken rice served Melaka style, and the Hainanese chicken chop.

(%2785 8000; www.majestickl.com; Majestic Hotel, 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; mains RM75-210; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm; W; dKuala Lumpur)

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Local Life

Little India's Street Food

Brickfields is loaded with good choices for street food. For cheap eats such as roti canai or banana-leaf meals try the Little India Fountain Hawker Stalls ( GOOGLE MAP ; dishes RM5-10; h24hr; dKL Sentral) across from the gaudy central fountain. Brickfields Pisang Goreng ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Thambapillai & Jln Tun Sambanthan 4; fritters RM1.20; h10am-6pm; Tun Sambanthan) has delicious fried bananas, while across the street, ABC Stall ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun Sambanthan 4, outside 7-Eleven store; cendol RM1.90; h10am-10pm; Tun Sambathan) serves fresh coconut juice, ais cendol (shaved ice) and other desserts.

Drinking

6MAI BarCOCKTAIL BAR

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This Polynesian tiki bar, which goes a little too heavy on the red lights, is another addition to KL's growing (and often glowing) band of high-rise bars with panoramic city views. DJs spin Wednesday to Saturday after 10pm. For a more casual atmosphere, and live music Friday nights, try the hotel's W XYZ bar.

(www.aloftkualalumpursentral.com; Aloft Kuala Lumpur Sentral, 5 Jln Stesen Sentral; hnoon-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; dKL Sentral)

6Tea LoungeTEAHOUSE

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Enjoy classic British high tea, and impeccable service, in the lounge of this lovely colonial-era hotel. If you wish to drink in the Orchid Conservatory make a reservation.

(%2785 8000; www.majestickl.com; Majestic Hotel, 5 Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; h3-6pm)

6Drawing RoomTEAHOUSE

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Enjoy proper British high tea in the original drawing room or verandah of the Carcosa Seri Negara hotel, in the hills just northwestern of Lake Perdana. This heritage mansion was built at the turn of the 20th century by Sir Frank Swettenham, the man who gave impetus for the creation of the lake and the Lake Gardens. Reservations are recommended.

(%2295 0888; reservation@carcosa.com.my; Carcosa Seri Negara; h3pm-6pm)

Understand

A Primer on Islam

Though religious freedom is guaranteed under the constitution of Malaysia, the state religion is Islam and this affects everything in KL from traffic patterns (especially with Friday afternoon prayers), to media freedom, to the price of alcohol.

Most Malaysian Muslims are Sunnis, but all Muslims share a common belief in the Five Pillars of Islam:

Shahadah (the declaration of faith) – 'There is no God but Allah; Mohammed is his Prophet.’

Salat (prayer) – Ideally five times a day, in which the muezzin (prayer leader) calls the faithful to prayer from the minarets of every mosque. You will hear these hauntingly beautiful calls throughout the day.

Zakat (almsgiving) – Donating 2.5% of one's wealth to the poor.

Sawm (fasting) – Includes observing the fasting month of Ramadan. This is actually a wonderful time to visit the city as Ramadan markets are set up everywhere, and a festive rather than solemn spirit prevails.

Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) – Every Muslim aspires to do the hajj at least once and there are special banks set up for saving, such as the Tabung Haji.

Muslim dietary laws forbid alcohol, pork and all pork-based products. Restaurants where it’s OK for Muslims to dine will be clearly labelled 'halal'.

A radical Islamic movement has not taken firm root in Malaysia but religious conservatism has grown over recent years: many feel it has gotten worse since the ruling party UMNO lost its supermajority in 2008, and subsequently the popular vote in 2013.

For foreign visitors, the most obvious sign is the national obsession with propriety, and on perceived insults to Islam. Reading the local papers reveals cases of Bibles being confiscated, warnings against encouraging dog-friendly events, and attempts to give sharia courts the same powers as federal courts. Probably the most obvious change in recent years is that more Muslim women wear the hijab (a head covering also known regionally as the    tudong).

Entertainment

3Temple of Fine ArtsTHEATRE

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Classical Indian dance and music shows take place here throughout the year. The centre also runs performing-arts courses. See the website for schedules.

(%2274 3709; www.tfa.org.my; 116 Jln Berhala, Brickfields; hclosed Mon; dKL Sentral, KL Sentral)

Shopping

7Lavanya ArtsARTS, CRAFTS

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Lavanya, inside the Temple of Fine Arts, sells colourful craft goods including adorable kids' and adults' clothes, and home decorations. Come the week around Deepavali for a festive range of beautiful Indian tribal arts, as well as handsome painted wooden dolls, brass sculpture, and colourful furniture from Rajastan.

(www.facebook.com/lavanyaarts; Temple of Fine Arts, 114-116 Jln Berhala, Brickfields; h10am-9.30pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun; dKL Sentral)

7SonaliFASHION

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Sequins, silks, filigree patterns and tie-dye – all the elements of the flash Bollywood look are present in this boutique. It's mainly for women but also has some fancy tops for men.

(www.sonali.com.my; 67A Jln Scott, Brickfields; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; dTun Sanbanthan)

7Wei-Ling GalleryART

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The top two floors of this old shophouse have been imaginatively turned into a contemporary gallery to showcase local artists. Note the artwork covering the metal security gate in front of the shophouse next door.

(www.weiling-gallery.com; 8 Jln Scott, Brickfields; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, Sun by appointment only; dKL Sentral)

7Nu SentralMALL

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The city's newest mall is part of the ongoing development of KL Sentral. Here you'll find (if you can find anything in this labyrinth complex) a branch of Parkson department store, MPH bookstore, a GSC multiplex and a food court.

(www.nusentral.com; 201, Jalan Tun Sambanthan; h10am-10pm; dKL Sentral)

Nu Sentral

TK KURIKAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Local Life

Buddhist Maha Vihara

The Buddhist Maha Vihara ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2274 1141; www.buddhistmahavihara.com; 123 Jln Berhala; dKL Sentral), founded in 1894 by Sinhalese settlers, is one of KL's major Theravada Buddhist temples. The temple is a particular hive of activity around Wesak Day, the Buddha's birthday, when a massive parade starts from here. Meditation classes (by donation) take place on Monday and Thursday at 8pm, chanting classes on Tuesday and Friday at 7.30pm.

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Top Tip

Lightning Strikes

Malaysia has the world's second-highest incidence of lightning strikes, and deaths are sadly very frequent. Storms appear suddenly over KL, especially during autumn. It's important to keep an eye on the weather forecast and to restrict outdoor activities such as visiting the Lake Gardens to the morning when there is less likelihood of a storm. If you are caught in a storm seek shelter, preferably in a large building (not just a gazebo), and keep away from electrical devices (especially any plugged in).

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Top Sights

Thean Hou Temple

Sitting atop leafy Robson Heights, this imposing multistorey Chinese temple, dedicated to Thean Hou, the heavenly queen, affords wonderful views over KL. Opened in 1989 by the Selangor and Federal Territory Hainan Association, it serves as both a house of worship and a functional space for events such as weddings. In recent years it's also become a tourist attraction in its own right, especially during Chinese festival times and the birthdays of the various temple gods.

Getting There

Tun Sambanthan then taxi.

u from downtown.

BALAN MADHAVAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

GOOGLE MAP

%2274 7088; www.hainannet.com.my/en; off Jln Syed Putra; h8am-10pm; u

y Top Tips

A Combine a visit to the temple with the Royal Museum, getting your taxi to pass through the rolling grounds of the historic Kwong Tong Cemetery on the way.

A The liveliest times at the temple are during Chinese New Year, Wesak Day (Buddha's birthday) and the days around Thean Hou's birthday (23rd day of the third lunar month).

A If you take a taxi it's best to ask the driver to wait, as it can be hard to get a taxi back otherwise.

5 Take a Break

There's a food court on the ground floor for nasi lemak and snacks, or head to nearby Little India for excellent hawker food.

Don't Miss

Architecture & Arts

The temple is a hodgepodge of Chinese regional and historical styles, and is impressive more for its size and atmosphere than craftsmanship (the entire complex is mostly concrete and eyerollingly gaudy in places). Some of its most attractive features include the sweeping ridgeline of the main hall, which tapers out like a swallowtail – this is a traditional Hokkien design for important buildings. The dragons and phoenixes on the highest eaves are examples of a type of 3D hand-laid mosaic commonly used as decoration in southern Chinese temples. Examine them up close from the top level.

Main Prayer Hall

Thean Hou takes centre stage in the main hall on the 3rd floor, with Kuan Yin (the bodhisattva of compassion) on her right and Shuiwei Shengniang (goddess of the waterfront) to her left. In front of Thean Hou's knees, look for her two guardians, known as Eyes-that-see-a-thousand-miles and Ears-that-hear-on-the-wind. Above Thean Hou note the inverted ceiling, a traditional design in her temples. If you wish to learn your fortune pick up the sticks near the altar, and drop them back in their jar so that one sticks up the tallest. The number on this one will correspond to a drawer containing a paper with your fortune on it.

Views

From the temple's courtyard and pavilions you can look down across the city and see Menara KL and the Petronas Towers off in the distance. It's a good vantage point to watch the sunset.

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Local Life

Boutique-Hopping in Bangsar Baru

This former rubber plantation district turned wealthy suburb is where new trends in shopping and eating come to live (and then die before they lose their edge). In a few compact blocks you'll find terraced restaurants and specialty cafes, artisanal bakeries luring passers-by with the aroma of fresh bread and homemade sandwiches, plus Indian nail art salons, aspiring local designers, and two high-end malls.

Getting There

Bangsar Baru is east of Brickfields.

* Taxi A taxi from downtown is easiest.

Bangsar then taxi.

1 Silverfish Books

Pick up a tome at this local bookshop and publisher ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2284 4837; www.silverfishbooks.com; 28-1 Jln Telawi, Bangsar Baru; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; jBangsar) of contemporary Malaysian literature. It often hosts talks – we once saw Nobel laureate Joseph Stiglitz here.

2 Brunch at G3 Kitchen & Bar

Bangsar is loaded with an impressive range of eating options. A good stop for brunch is G3 Kitchen & Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Jln Telawi 3; mains RM22-33; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun; W). Sit in the cosy indoor space or outside on the terrace and devour wood-fired pizzas, made-from-scratch burgers and sandwiches, and fresh juices.

3 Never Follow Suit

This vintage and original design boutique ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2284 7316; 28-2, Jln Telawi 2, Bangsar Baru; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; jBangsar) is a good first stop for the fashion-conscious. Also look for Shoes Shoes Shoes ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/ShoesShoesShoes3; 2nd fl, Jln Telawi 3, Bangsar; h11am-9pm; jBangsar), the dream project of shoe fanatic Nurita Harith ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nuritaharith.com; 2nd fl, Jln Telawi 3, beside Alexis Bistro; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; jBangsar), one of KL's hot young designers.

4 Devi's Corner

If you need a snack, nearly every street intersection seems to have a venerable Indian joint. At Devi's Corner ( GOOGLE MAP ; 14 Jln Telawi 2; dishes RM1.5-7.5; h24hr; dBangsar) the thali sets are excellent, and you can also get thosa (crispy pancakes), biryani, tandoori chicken and great satay. Another solid choice is nearby banana-leaf meal seller Sri Nirwana Maju ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2287 8445; 43 Jln Telawi 3; meals RM10-20; h10am-1.30pm; jBangsar).

5 Bangsar Village I & II

These twin malls ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bangsarvillage.com; cnr Jln Telawi 1 & Jln Telawi 2; h10am-10pm; jBangsar) are linked by a covered bridge and house loads of upmarket crafts, furniture and fashions. Try Dude & the Duchess for fashion, Thomas Chan for shoes, and Desiree for clothes with a touch of Chinese styling. Bangsar Village II also has a play centre for kids.

6 Relax at Hammam Spa

This beautiful mosaic-tiled Moroccan spa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2282 2180; www.hammamspas.com; 3rd fl, Bangsar Village II; h10am-10.30pm) is located in Bangsar Village II. Couples and singles packages are available with sumptuous titles such as the Royal Couple (RM688) and the Sultan's Daughter Wedding (RM428). A simple gommage (steam and scrub) will set you back RM150.

7 A Beer at the Social

There's no shortage of spots to wet your whistle at the end of the day. The Social ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thesocial.com.my; 57-59 Jln Telawi 3; h11.30am-2am; jBangsar) has pool tables, good food and cheap happy-hour draught to quaff on its long terrace. Ril's Bangsar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2201 3846; www.facebook.com/RilsBangsar; 30 Jln Telawi 5; h10am-2am; W; jBangsar), a premium-grade steak restaurant on street level, has a prohibition-era style cocktail bar upstairs. There's live music (jazz, blues, soul) on weekends.

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The Best of

Kuala Lumpur

A Stroll Through Kampung Baru

Chinatown Architecture Ramble

Street Food & Food Courts

Bars & Cafes

Shopping

With Kids

For Free

Clubs & Entertainment

Religious & Heritage Buildings

Green Spaces

Museums & Galleries

Spas & Wellness

2

Best Walks

A Stroll Through Kampung Baru

2The Walk

Beyond the city's blockbuster sights, this walk offers a fascinating tour of the village side of KL, passing traditional wood houses on stilts, the religious buildings and shrines of multiple faiths, and great places to snack on local dishes. There's not much shade on this walk so start early or head out after 4pm. Dress conservatively (a scarf to cover the head is recommended for women) as you will be entering a mosque and Sikh temple.

Start Chow Kit monorail station

Finish Dang Wangi LRT station

Length 3.5km; two hours

5Take a Break

If you need refreshment at the start of the walk there are stalls inside Bazaar Baru Chow Kit (Chow Kit Market; GOOGLE MAP ; 469-473 Jln TAR; h8am-5pm; Chow Kit). Otherwise, about halfway through the tour, there is a row of traditional Malay restaurants along Jln Raja Muda Musa.

1 Wood House & Shrine

Walk south on Jln TAR, and turn right into Jln Chow Kit to No 41, a tiny traditional wooden house squashed between buildings. On the way back check out the shrine across the parking lot. This is a Datuk Gong, where Chinese worship ancient Malay spirits alongside their own earth god.

2 Bazaar Baru Chow Kit

Return to Jln TAR and cross over to lively Bazaar Baru Chow Kit. At the back of the market, just past the turn for Lrg Raja Bot, check out the pretty Chinese temple and row of painted wood houses.

3 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara

Just down Lrg Raja Bot you'll see this Sikh temple, the largest in Southeast Asia.

4 Masjid Jamek Kampung Baru

Further along Jln Raja Alang is the area's beautiful mosque.

5 Viewpoint

Where Jln Raja Alang turns south, continue on the smaller road to a two-level apartment block: two palms in a small field here perfectly frame the Petronas Towers.

6 Rumah Limas

At the junction of Jln Raja Muda Musa and Jln Raja Mahadi stands the turquoise-and-white Rumah Limas, built in 1913 on stone pillars; explore Jln Raja Mahadi and the cross streets for more traditional wooden houses.

7 Sultan Sulaiman Club

Cross Jln Raja Abdullah and then turn left on Jln Datuk Abdul Razak. Continue to the handsome black-and-white painted Sultan Sulaiman Club, accessible through a gate.

8 Master Mat's House

Just past the club down a side street to the right is Master Mat's House. Built in 1921 by a beloved English-school headmaster, this charming blue house sits on stone pillars and sports a curved white staircase.

9 Jalan Khatib Koyan

Heading south down Jln Raja Abdullah, take looping Jln Khatib Koyan, Kampung Baru's most charming back street. It ends with a great food court back at the intersection with Jln Raja Abdullah.

a Dang Wangi Houses

At the turn to Dang Wangi LRT station there is a last cluster of wood houses.

Street stalls, Kampung Baru

GWOEII/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2

Best Walks

Chinatown Architecture Ramble

2The Walk

The focus of this walk is the variety of architecture found in the oldest part of town: from eclectic two- and three-storey shophouses to Cantonese-style temples, Dravidian-style Hindu temples, art-deco buildings and a Mughal-style mosque designed by an Englishman. There are endless places to snack, and as most of the walk is covered you can do this any time of day in relative comfort.

Start Maharajalela monorail station

Finish Masjid Jamek LRT station

Length 2km; two hours

5Take a Break

Stop at Peter Hoe Beyond Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, Lee Rubber Bldg, 145 Jln Tun HS Lee; mains RM20-39; h10am-7pm, meals noon-3; W; jPasar Seni) for coffee and a light meal, or Petaling Street Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Petaling; hnoon-11pm; gKota Raya) for a coconut or sugar-cane juice pick-me-up.

1 Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Temple

From Maharajalela monorail station head north to the busy traffic roundabout of Bulatan Merdeka, and look for this ornate clan temple. Spend a little time studying the lively Shek Wan pottery.

2 Sri Mahamariamman Temple

Then head up to the Petaling Street Market entrance: pop in if it looks enticing, otherwise head to Jln Tun HS Lee. The shophouses here are among Chinatown’s oldest; further up note the sunken arcade walkways. Take a break inside the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, one of the wealthiest in Malaysia.

3 Guandi Temple

Cross the road to visit this temple of the patron of righteous brotherhoods. You could also pop into the covered market to the right.

4 Lee Rubber Building

Cross back over Jln Tun HS Lee for the pale-yellow art-deco Lee Rubber Building built in 1930. You can explore the inside via the 1st-floor bookstore, or Peter Hoe Beyond on the 2nd floor.

5 Sin Sze Si Ya Temple

Cross Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock and turn left to the atmospheric Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, built by Hakka and KL founder Yap Ah Loy.

6 Central Market

Exit the back of the temple and turn left on Lebuh Pudu to reach Central Market, one of KL's most handsome art deco buildings. Adjacent is an equally handsome row of restored shophouses with eclectic European facades.

7 Medan Pasar

Continue up to this square, once the home of Kapitan Yap Ah Loy, backed by rows of restored three-storey shophouses in a range of early 20th-century styles; note the Dutch gables on the front left shops and the lovely art-deco clock tower from the 1930s in the centre.

8 Lebuh Ampang

Continue up Lebuh Ampang to Jln Gereja. The shophouses near the end belong to Indian merchants and moneylenders called Chettiars.

9 Masjid Jamek

Retrace your steps to Jln Tun Perak to visit this splendid Mughal-inspired mosque and to see how the revitalisation of the heritage riverfront area is progressing (the River of Life project).

Petaling Street Market, Chinatown

TUUL AND BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Best

Street Food & Food Courts

KL's tastiest and best-value food is found at hawker stalls, and locals are fiercely loyal to their favourite vendors. Many hawkers have been in business for decades, and the best enjoy reputations that exceed their geographical reach. In KL the definition of street food is broad, taking in dishes served at individual stalls on wheels, at food courts, and in traditional kopitiam (coffee shops).

The Hawker Scene

Hawker stalls can be found individually roadside, or more often in clusters at a food court (usually covered with a roof but otherwise open air), or under a giant spreading tree at the edge of a parking lot. Food courts sometimes have a mix of Indian, Malay and Chinese dishes, but often one ethnic cuisine will be featured. Don't miss the mamak food courts, serving fantastic snack foods, such as tandoori chicken and murtabak from KL's Muslim Indian-Malay community, 24 hours a day.

Kopitiam, whether owned by an individual or run like a food court with multiple outlets under a single roof, are also considered part of the scene and are as inexpensive as the outdoor venues.

If you need air-con, head to KL's equally renowned mall food courts, which often have outlets of the same hawker venues found outside.

Ordering

At a multiple vendor joint, place an order with whoever you like, find a seat (shared tables are common) and pay for each dish as it’s delivered to your table. At food courts, kopitiam and mamak joints someone will usually approach you to take your order. You’ll also usually be approached by someone taking drink orders after you’ve sat down – pay for these separately as well. Note that beer is not generally available.

yTop Tips

A If you're intrigued by the food you've sampled in KL and feel you want a bit of expert guidance to help you learn and sample more, consider a food tour with Simply Enak (%017-287 8929; www.simplyenak.com; tours RM200-250). At the time of press its tours included Chinatown and Chow Kit with prices including food and drinks, as well as a few cultural highlights.

PAUL KENNEDY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Hawker Food

Little India Fountain Hawker Stalls Two-storey collection of stalls for roti or banana-leaf meals.

Keong Kee Sit under a tree with a coconut herbal curry or wild-boar curry.

Jalan Alor KL's most famous food street, with dozens of choices.

Kin Kin Universally loved originator of chilli pan mee.

Best Food Courts

Lot 10 Hutong Enjoy famous hawker food in an air-conditioned food court.

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery Canteen Best veggie buffet in town.

Restoran Win Heng Seng Popular local breakfast food court.

Best Food Markets

Imbi Market Traditional breakfast (including kopi) in an outdoor stall area of a wet market.

Madras Lane Hawkers Chinatown back alley lined with stalls serving yong tau fu and bak kut teh.

Best Kopitiam

Yut Kee Serving Hainanese comfort dishes such as chicken chops since 1928.

Capital Café Beloved multi-hawker venue for Malay and Chinese dishes.

Hong Ngek This long-running Chinatown joint serves excellent ginger duck and ribs in Guinness.

Best Mamak Food Courts

Restoran Yusoof dan Zakhir Southern Indian food in a cool green-and-yellow shophouse.

Nasi Kandar Pelita Choose from 60 succulent dishes at this bungalow on stilts.

Jalan Alor

PETER HORREE/ALAMY ©

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Best

Bars & Cafes

Despite Malaysia's Muslim majority, KL has a lively and varied drinking scene that includes sophisticated lounges and speakeasy bars, British-style pubs, Spanish tapas bars, and several streets cheek by jowl with alcohol-fuelled options. During the day the selections for wetting your whistle are no less varied, with traditional tea and kopi available in ageing shophouses, and lattes and single-origin coffee in a range of hip cafes.

Sky Bars

Sky-high taxes make a night out boozing an expensive affair, but KL sort of makes up for that by offering such fabulous city views from its many elevated venues. You can't drink in the iconic Petronas Towers themselves, but the view is better gazing at them from another rooftop bar.

Bars

The speakeasy scene is well matured in KL, though ironically many venues sit inside shopping malls, which somewhat spoils the effect. Regular bars are concentrated in the Golden Triangle (especially Changkat Bukit Bintang), Bangsar and Pavilion KL shopping mall.

For gay nightlife options see Click here.

Cafes

KL has had a coffee scene for over a hundred years, and traditional kopitiam (coffee shops) still serve a potent brew. Kopi can be an acquired taste, but there are also tea drinks (and a beverage called cham, which is a mix of tea and coffee). Modern cafes are also popular, both chains and individual shops, and there is a growing specialty coffee scene worth checking out.

yTop Tips

A Upscale bars (and clubs) usually have a dress code.

A Keep up to date on KL's latest bar openings with TimeOut Kuala Lumpur (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur).

JON ARNOLD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Bars for Casual Drinking

Pisco Bar This hip tapas bar is set back from the street in a revamped shophouse.

Taps Beer Bar KL's best selection of craft beers from around the world.

Reggae Bar Chilled-out traveller bar in Chinatown.

Green Man This British-style pub on KL's premier bar street has a loyal following.

Best Sky Bars & Lounges

Frangipani There's a deck bar streetside and a fashionable gay-friendly lounge upstairs.

Fuego Enjoy innovative cocktails in a sky-high perch with exceptional views of the Twin Towers.

Heli Lounge Bar Mind the lack of a railing as you drink in the views across to Menara KL from this rooftop bar.

Sky Bar This high-end lounge in the Trader's Hotel offers stunning city views.

Best Cafes & Teahouses

Tea Lounge Enjoy British high tea in the colonial-era Majestic Hotel.

VCR Single-origin espresso and hand-drip coffees in a spacious remodelled shophouse.

Feeka Coffee Roasters Enjoy both good food and coffee at this Jln Mesui hang-out with indoor and outdoor seating.

Yut Kee Try traditional kopi in this Hainanese kopitiam running since 1928.

Heli Lounge Bar

ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Worth a Trip

Upstairs from the restaurant of the same name, Hit & Mrs ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2282 3571; 15 Lg Kurau; h5pm-1am Tue-Sat; W; jBangsar) is a casual cocktail bar on a quiet strip outside the main commercial area of Bangsar. The design is retro cool, with rattan chairs and frosted glass, and encourages a long stay.

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Best

Shopping

Shopping in KL is dominated by mega-malls with similar selections of international brands, but the homeland of Jimmy Choo also supports plenty of local designers, a decent legacy of traditional crafts and vintage goods, and a number of bustling markets from which you're at least going to return home with loads of interesting photos.

Traditional Arts & Crafts

Skilled artisans are a dying breed but a few crafts are still going strong in KL, such as pewterware, batik and basketry. It's also not hard to find good-quality antique and vintage items in independently owned shops (such as in Central Market), and newer works in museum gift shops. The city's frequent arts festivals are also good places to pick up local crafts. Browsing the incense and statuary shops around Chinese temples, and the flower stalls around Hindu temples, is also interesting. Markets, on the other hand, such as Petaling Street and Masjid India's pasar malam (night market), are hit-and-miss, selling mostly cheap clothing and counterfeit modern goods.

Local Designers

Look for traditional kebaya and shoemakers, high-end and hipster fashion designers, as well as chains such as British India that sell well-made clothing suitable for a tropical climate. None of this is a bargain, though; expect to pay what you would in an independent boutique in a European city.

LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Malls

Pavilion KL The gold standard for KL's mall scene.

Suria KLCC A retail nirvana at the base of the Petronas Towers.

Fahrenheit88 Youth-oriented mall, great for Japanese fashions.

Best Boutiques

British India Popular home-grown chain selling well-made linen clothing.

Never Follow Suit Quirky-cool boutique run by young designers.

Ang Eng For traditional kebaya (blouses).

Aseana A multibrand boutique showcasing the works of many local design stars.

Best Arts & Crafts

Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur Large government-run craft shop for kites, baskets, pewter, ceramics and more.

Peter Hoe Beyond Tons of colourful custom-made fabrics and unique household items.

Central Market Dozens of shops selling local arts and crafts under one roof.

Royal Selangor Traditional maker of lovely handcrafted pewter.

Lavanya Arts Authentic Indian arts and crafts.

Museum of Ethnic Arts Stunning ethnic crafts from all over Malaysia such as wood carvings, masks, embroidery and paintings.

Islamic Arts Museum Good for art books and textiles.

Central Market

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Worth a Trip

Just north of town is the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre, of pewterware fame, where you can buy beautiful handcrafted pieces or try your hand in the DIY workshop. Tin mining and pewter are near synonymous with KL history, so a gift from here is as unique as they come.

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Best

With Kids

With its plethora of colourful, accessible and most importantly yummy street and food court eats and easy-to-sell attractions such as jungle canopy walks and tower lookouts, KL makes a good destination for families. Public transport is manageable, taxis are ubiquitous, parks are fairly plentiful, and accommodation is clean and modern.

Eating Out

Hygiene at restaurants and hawker stalls is generally good. With choices that range from fish-head curry to Western comfort foods it's easy to please both adventurous and fickle young appetites. Dehydration is a concern in the heat so be sure to monitor kids' fluid intake.

yTop Tips

A TimeOut KL (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur/kids) publishes a Malaysia for Kids guide and has up-to-date listings and features on what to do with your kids on its website.

A Breastfeeding in public is frowned upon, and should be discreet if necessary. Carrying babies in a sling is easier than a pram due to the uneven sidewalks. Midrange and upscale restaurants often have highchairs but most budget places don’t.

A A slow-moving family, especially one with a pram, can be a target for theft. Always be vigilant.

CHRISTIAN KOBER/ROBERT HARDING ©

Best Attractions for Kids

FRIM Spot wild monkeys and brave a canopy walk.

Batu Caves The colourful tableaux of Hindu myths, wild monkeys, and the Dark Cave capture children's imagination.

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery Walk through a tunnel lined with RM1 million.

Aquaria KLCC In the heart of KL, kids can interact with sea creatures.

KL Bird Park This massive free-flight aviary filled with exotic birds is a family highlight.

Petronas Towers View the city from on high and learn about the construction of the iconic buildings.

Menara KL Take a jungle walk before or after a ride up this telecommunications tower.

Petrosains A good hands-on kids science centre.

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Best

For Free

Much of the best of KL is completely free for visitors. This includes all temples and mosques, public parks, some museums, and many architecturally interesting buildings, such as Chinatown shophouses. People-watching along busy streets and in markets are also fun activities that don't break the bank. And there are free tours of Brickfields, Merdeka Square and Kampung Baru.

STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Free Sights & Activities

Royal Malaysia Police Museum Fascinating museum charting Malaysia's history of policing.

KL City Gallery Get an overview of KL's history and diverse architecture.

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery Surprisingly interesting exhibits on money, including rare coins.

KLCC Park Beautiful trees and awe-inducing views of the Twin Towers.

Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association Temple Admire the Cantonese design and fine pottery figures from China on the roof.

Sri Mahamariamman Temple This temple is always a buzzing hive of religious and festival activity.

Sin Sze Si Ya Temple KL's oldest Chinese temple has a deep devotional atmosphere.

Masjid Jamek A centre of worship and a beautiful building in the Indo-Saracenic style.

National Textiles Museum Displays the range of local textiles with beautiful examples.

Merdeka Square Malaysia's independence square is surrounded by handsome colonial architecture.

KL Forest Eco Park A real jungle right in the heart of the city.

Badan Warisan Malaysia This heritage society has preserved a stunning example of traditional stilt housing.

Museum of Ethnic Arts Splendid private collection of arts and crafts from Malaysia and abroad.

Batu Caves The main cave of this Hindu shrine is free; the psychedelic Ramayana Cave is only RM2.

Perdana Botanical Garden Explore exotic native and foreign plants then stroll the lovely Lake Perdana.

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Best

Clubs & Entertainment

KL has plenty of entertainment options, from live music and big-scale musicals to traditional arts performances. Aside from religious festivities and a couple of established art and film events, there aren't a lot of other festivals on the annual calendar, though many one-off events are highly worth attending. In general, there's a lot happening, but it's not always well advertised. The websites and Facebook links below are invaluable for keeping up to date.

PETER CHAN/AGEPHOTO ©

Clubs & Live Music

Wednesday to Sunday are the main club nights, with plenty of different events happening to suit all tastes and budgets. Be prepared for cover charges, which vary greatly (usually around RM18 to RM60, although rates for women are often lower than for men), but usually include one drink. Some clubs deny entry to under 21s. KL has a good live-music scene, and you can catch anything from a novice guitarist strumming in a shophouse cafe to accomplished jazz performers and international pop music artists. TimeOut Kuala Lumpur (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur/music-nightlife) keeps an updated list of upcoming gigs.

Traditional & Modern Arts Performances

Traditional performances of shadow puppetry, opera, dance, drumming and drama, as well as modern arts festivals and events, are becoming more common. Keep up with events by checking the websites of NGOs and art groups such as Pusaka, Kakiseni (www.facebook.com/mykakiseni), Daily Seni (www.facebook.com/DailySeni), and MapKl (www.facebook.com/mapkl). More commercial Broadway-style musicals and plays are also popular, though censorship demands mean they are rarely more than simple entertainment.

Best Live Music

KL Live Large venue for rock and pop concerts.

No Black Tie Chic live-music bar run by a classical pianist.

Dewan Filharmonik Petronas Gorgeous concert hall at the base of the Petronas Towers.

Alexis Ampang Popular live jazz venue.

Best Traditional & Modern Performances

Kelantan Shadow Puppet Play Traditional shadow puppet performances are held here daily.

Panggung Bandaraya KL's most beautiful theatrical space is set in a fabulous old colonial building.

Petaling Street Art House A range of Chinese performance arts are held in this shophouse in Chinatown.

Sutra Dance Theatre Dance legend Ramli Ibrahim's performance studio near Lake Titiwangsa.

Istana Budaya The national theatre holds big-scale drama and musical performances.

Temple of Fine Arts For high-quality classical Indian dance and music performances.

Best Clubs

Zouk Popular club with various spaces on different levels to suit different tastes and budgets.

Frangipani Sophisticated lounge and club on buzzing Changkat Bukit Bintang.

Blueboy Discotheque KL's oldest running gay club.

Istana Budaya

CHRISTIAN KOBER/AGEPHOTO ©

Worth a Trip

Part of the Sentul West regeneration project, the Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre (KLPAC; GOOGLE MAP ; %4047 9000; www.klpac.org; Jln Strachan, Sentul Park; dSentul), set in an old railway warehouse, puts on a wide range of events including dramas, musicals, dance, film festivals (non-censored) and exhibitions. Also on offer are performing arts courses, and with any luck the Yayasan Sime Darby Arts Festival will become a yearly event here.

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Best

Religious & Heritage Buildings

KL was first forged by the labours of Chinese, Indians and Malays, all very religiously oriented peoples who, not surprisingly, have left the city with a splendid legacy of temples and mosques. The fourth major party in the city's development, the British, bequeathed a colonial architectural heritage that runs from Tudor-style clubhouses to grand railway stations inspired by the Mughal empire in India.

DAVID HILL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Temples & Mosques

Masjid Jamek This former national mosque was built in a handsome Mughal style in 1907.

Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association Temple One of the few Chinese temples in KL with abundant decorative arts.

Sin Sze Si Ya Temple Founded by Kapitan Yap Ah Loy in 1864, this is still a centre for worship in Chinatown.

Sri Mahamariamman Temple The central Hindu temple in Chinatown.

Sree Veera Hanuman Temple Dedicated to the monkey king, the temple is flanked by two others.

Masjid Negara The national mosque was built in a striking modern design in 1965 to embody the postcolonial spirit.

Thean Hou Temple This gaudy modern Chinese temple has beautiful city views.

Best Heritage Buildings

Merdeka Square Independence square is surrounded by beautiful colonial-era buildings.

Old KL Train Station This grand civic structure dates back to 1910.

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman A gorgeous 100-year-old wood stilt house saved from Kedah state.

Medan Pasar KL's old market square is backed by beautiful shophouses with European-style facades.

Loke Mansion Built by tin tycoon Loke Yew, this is one of KL's most grand private mansions.

Royal Museum This sprawling European mansion was home to the Malay royal family until 2011.

Malaysian Tourism Centre One of the few remaining early 20th-century bungalows around KLCC.

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Best

Green Spaces

One of the pleasures of riding around KL in a taxi is suddenly coming round a bend into a stretch of intense greenery, often with towering banyan trees interweaving overhead that block out the sky. There are few small parks to relax in, but plenty of tree-lined roads and a number of larger lakes and forest parks both within the city and a short drive away.

Wild Kuala Lumpur

Even in the city your chances of spotting exotic wildlife are high. Macaque monkeys are out in force at Batu Caves (do not touch or feed them, or other wildlife, as rabies is present in Malaysia). At FRIM or Taman TAR also look for adorable dusky leaf monkeys. If you have a vantage over the forest canopy, keep an eye out for brightly-coloured orioles and bee-eaters. Anytime you are near a body of water watch for monitor lizards (which can reach up to 2m in length). And if you really want to get into the mountains around town contact KL Hiking & Trail Running (www.facebook.com/groups/Wildpac).

LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Parks & Lakes

KLCC Park This well-treed, 20-hectare park looks up to the Petronas Towers.

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park Formerly known as the Lake Gardens, it's the city's biggest green space.

KL Forest Eco Park KL's oldest protected jungle has a canopy walk and trails to/from Menara KL.

Merdeka Square A former cricket green, now an open square surrounded by colonial buildings.

FRIM Almost 600 hectares of forests and quiet lanes for cycling just outside the city.

Batu Caves Massive natural caves that you can walk into for almost 1km with a guide.

Lake Titiwangsa A pretty lake for strolling round and snapping KL's skyline.

Kwong Tong Cemetery Enjoy rolling hills and frangipani trees among the graves of KL luminaries.

Best Views

Menara KL Observe the ring of mountains around KL from this telcommunications tower.

Petronas Towers Offers another mesmerising panorama of the city.

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Best

Museums & Galleries

There are no world-class museums or galleries in KL, but the scene is rich nonetheless, with a high number of excellent small venues, and one or two outstanding collections in the larger museums. With the exception of the Islamic Arts Museum, all are focused on the details of Malaysian life, culture and history, or the creative works of native talents.

yTop Tips

A Most museums and galleries are free, or inexpensive, which is good as foreign student and senior discounts don't usually apply (though children's do).

A The galleries in Publika ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.publika.com.my; 1 Jln Dutamas, Solaris Dutamas; h10am-9pm; u) mall are a good place to see (and buy) contemporary oil paintings.

RICHARD CUMMINS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best for Arts & Crafts

Islamic Arts Museum KL's top museum sets out to display the variety and richness of Islamic art around the world.

National Textiles Museum In a beautiful heritage building, this museum charts the history of Malaysian textiles with lots of examples.

Badan Warisan Malaysia This heritage society holds exhibits in a colonial-era bungalow.

Muzeum Kraf Small but informative exhibits of traditional crafts such as wood carvings, metalwork and batik.

Museum of Ethnic Arts Outstanding private collection of tribal and ethnic arts, from Sarawak face masks to Qing-dynasty dragon robes.

Best for History

Royal Malaysia Police Museum See homemade guns from Chinese triads and take in history of Malaysia through policing.

National Museum Excellent prehistory displays and an informative gallery on the early Malay Kingdoms.

KL City Gallery This is a great place to kickstart your understanding of Kuala Lumpur.

Royal Museum The former house of the royal family is now open for public viewing.

Best for Contemporary Art

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery Though the painting collection is good, the floors devoted to money are better.

National Visual Arts Gallery Showcases the best of contemporary Malaysian artists working in a variety of media.

Wei-Ling Gallery One of the city's top private painting galleries is happy to welcome curious browsers.

Galeri Petronas This bright modern gallery owned by Petronas group showcases local and international painters and photographers.

National Museum

WIBOWO RUSLI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Worth a Trip

The family-friendly National Science Centre (Pusat Sains Negara; www.psn.gov.my/en; Persiaran Bukit Kiara; adult/child RM6/3; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) in the Mont Kiara suburb is well regarded for its hands-on learning environment. The galleries cover topics such as flight, computers, water, air and light and the discoveries of Islamic scientists. There are also special rooms for toddlers and older kids, an outdoor park and a 3D theatre.

x

Best

Spas & Wellness

Like most Asian cities, KL has its share of dodgy massage places, but it also stands out for having some truly fine spas. And being such a multicultural city, you're as likely to find a Swedish massage joint as fish-nibbling foot spas, Moroccan-style bathhouses, and Chinese tuina clinics where all your troubles can be kneaded away.

Treatments

Spas offer a wide range of services, from a simple head and shoulder massage to a full package that includes skin scrubbing, steam baths and body wraps. Cheap foot and body massages can be found around Jln Alor, while most shopping malls will have a higher-end massage, spa and beauty clinic.

Exercise

KL-ites are becoming more active these days, and gyms and yoga classes are easy to find, as are hiking, cycling, and other outdoor activity clubs (look them up on Facebook or Meetup).

Costs

Prices of treatments of course vary greatly, but a simple foot spa might start at RM40; a 60-minute massage at RM200; and a full spa treatment with massage, scrubs and wraps at RM400.

BTRENKEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Spas, Massages, Wellness & Fitness

Hammam Spa This gorgeous Moroccan-style spa and bathhouse offers exotic packages such as 'The Sultan's Daughter's Wedding'.

Kenko Renowned fish spa for when you need the grime of the city streets nibbled away.

Donna Spa A Balinese-style spa on the super-luxury Starhill Gallery's Pamper Floor.

Eu Yan Sang This traditional Chinese medicine clinic offers tuina massage, and scrapping therapies for heat exhaustion.

Majestic Spa Beautiful spa in one of KL's best heritage hotels.

Buddhist Maha Vihara Meditation classes at a Buddhist temple.

Chin Woo Stadium Old but good community fitness centre with big swimming pool.

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A Dry Season (Jan-Feb) Generally dry with hot days and cooler nights. Busy tourist season with Chinese New Year and Hindu Thaipusam festival.

A Wet Season (Mar-May) Expect heavy afternoon monsoon showers and slow traffic.

A Dry Season (Jun-Sep) Driest and hottest time of year and most touristed. Especially popular with Middle Eastern travellers July and August. Enjoy fresh durians June to August and Ramadan feasts in August.

A Wet Season (Oct-Dec) Another rainy season with heavy afternoon showers. Tourist numbers lower and nights are pleasant.

Book Your Stay

Top Tip If you're planning to stay in a hostel, check that it doesn't have an age limit policy that might restrict you: some hostels refuse guests over 60 or 65, or under 13.

KL has plenty of good accommodation, more and more of it set in colonial-era buildings, at all price ranges. It's always best to reserve in advance, especially around Chinese New Year, the summer months (especially Ramadan) and holidays such as Deepavali. Rates at cheaper places usually include hotel taxes (which are currently 6% but could change with the implementation of a GST in 2015) and service charges (10%). Midrange and top-end places usually quote prices without these added.

Useful Websites

A Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Read reviews and make bookings.

A Agoda (www.agoda.com) Big discounts on hotel rates.

A iBilik (www.ibilik.my) Short-term rental apartments and homestays.

A Cari Homestay (www.carihomestay.net) More homestay options.

Best Budget

A Reggae Mansion (www.reggaehostelsmalaysia.com/mansion) In Chinatown; for the modern, chilled-out backpacker.

A Classic Inn (www.classicinn.com.my) Retro-charming shophouse near the Imbi Monorail.

A Red Palm (www.redpalm-kl.com) Shophouse hostel in the heart of KL's eating and drinking scene.

A BackHome (www.backhome.com.my) Relaxed Chinatown hostel aimed at the flashpacker set.

A Explorers Guesthouse (www.theexplorersguesthouse.com) Well run, a little arty, and in the heart of Chinatown.

Best Midrange

A Paloma Inn (www.hotelpalomainn.com.my) Cosy digs on a quiet backstreet of painted shophouses.

A Sarang Vacation Homes (www.sarangvacationhomes.com) Friendly B&B operation with a variety of flats and shophouses.

A Yard Boutique Hotel (www.theyard.com.my) Stylish oasis in a buzzing bar and restaurant district.

A Rainforest Bed & Breakfast (www.rainforestbnbhotel.com) Colourful, timber-lined guesthouse on hipster Jln Mesui.

Best Top End

A Sekeping Sin Chew Kee (www.sekeping.com) Architect-designed family apartment in a renovated shophouse.

A Royale Chulan (www.theroyalechulan.com.my) Luxe hotel in a leafy neighborhood just minutes from KLCC.

A Majestic Hotel (www.majestickl.com) Reborn heritage hotel within walking distance of the Lake Gardens.

A Villa Samadhi (www.villasamadhi.com.my) Beautiful Southeast Asian–style hideaway with a tree-shaded pool.

Arriving in Kuala Lumpur

Top Tip For the best way to get to your accommodation, see p000.

Kuala Lumpur International Airport

A Unless you're coming in by bus or train from Penang, Malacca, Thailand or Singapore, you will arrive at Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA; %03-8777 8888; www.klia.com.my), about 50km south of the city centre. Note that after the low-cost terminal (LCCT) closed in 2014, all flights now arrive at this airport. There are two terminals: KLIA I and II, the latter the new low-cost-carrier terminal.

A The airport is connected with the city centre by taxi, bus and train. The fastest way is by KLIA Ekspres (www.kliaekspres.com; adult/child one way RM35/15) trains, which take 28 to 33 minutes and have departures every 15 to 20 minutes from 5am to 1am to KL Sentral station.

A An airport express bus (www.airportcoach.com.my) also runs between KLIA and KL Sentral station from 5am to midnight. The fare is a low RM10.

A A taxi costs RM75 to RM100; prepay for your ride before exiting the arrival hall.

A There are ATMs, moneychangers and left-luggage services at both terminals.

KL Sentral Train Station

All long-distance trains arrive at KL Sentral station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1300 889 933; www.ktmb.com.my) of the KTM (Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad; www.ktmkomuter.com.my) national railway hub and near the heart of the city in Brickfields. There are daily connections with Butterworth (for Penang), Thailand and Singapore but journey times are slow.

KL Sentral is linked to all major local public transport networks: LRT, monorail, Komuter trains and buses. Taxis are also available; purchase a taxi coupon (there are booths on various levels) before lining up to ensure you are not overcharged. Level 2 is open from 6am to 2pm.

Terminal Bersepadu Selatan

The slick transport hub (TBS; www.tbsbts.com.my) is about 15 minutes south of KL Sentral and connected by train; LRT (Bandar Tasik Selatan station); and taxi. Buses from north and south destinations within Malaysia arrive here, as well as from Singapore.

Pudu Sentral Bus Station

This Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.expressbusmalaysia.com/bus-stations/puduraya-bus-terminal; h6am-midnight, some earlier airport buses) on the edge of Chinatown serves northbound destinations around peninsula Malaysia, as well as Thailand. It's a crowded, rundown place, with pushy touts, and best avoided if other options are available. Plaza Rakyat LRT Station is just behind the terminal. Taking a taxi to or from this station is always a hassle.

Getting Around

LRT, Monorail & Komuter Train

Best for... Getting around the city quickly to most tourist spots, especially when it rains and traffic comes to a standstill.

A It's best to think of the three systems as forming one mass transport network (and this is how most maps will show them) across greater KL; they share a main hub at KL Sentral and you can transfer from one to the other (though they are not well integrated).

A The air-conditioned KL Monorail (www.klmonorail.com.my; RM1.20-2.50; h6am-midnight) has a single line from KL Sentral to Titiwangsa, cutting through the Golden Triangle and linking together most of the tourist sights in the city. Trains run every six to 12 minutes.The line gets very busy in the evening and can be a little unsettling when it wobbles.

A The Light Rail Transit (LRT; %03-7885 2585; www.myrapid.com.my; RM1-2.80; hevery 6-10min, 6am-11.45pm, to11.30pm Sun & holidays) covers much more of the city centre and the outer suburbs, with lines that take you to Chinatown and Masjid Jamek, as well as Bangsar and Ampang.

A The KTM Komuter Train (www.ktmkomuter.com.my; RM1-1.40; h6.45am-11.45pm) runs every 15 to 20 minutes serving greater KL and is useful for trips to Batu Caves, FRIM and the Lake Gardens.

Tickets & Passes

A RapidKL offers the MyRapid pre-paid card (www.myrapid.com.my), valid on RapidKL buses, the monorail and the main LRT lines.

A Touch 'n Go cards (www.touchngo.com.my) can be used on all public transport.

A For short-term stays you are better off buying individual tickets, as finding an outlet or station stocked with these cards can be difficult.

Taxi

Best for... Travel to and from hotels and restaurants, travelling quickly between destinations during non-peak, non-rainy hours.

A Air-conditioned taxis are plentiful in KL and you can usually flag one down easily during non-peak, non-rainy hours.

A Regular taxis charge RM3 for first kilometre and 87 sen for each additional kilometre. There's a 50% surcharge from midnight to 6am. Luggage placed in the trunk is charged extra at RM1 per piece.

A Blue taxis are newer and more comfortable, and start at RM6 for the first 2km and RM1 per kilometre after that. Night surcharges of 50% also apply.

A There is a serious problem in KL with drivers refusing to use meters (even though they are required to do so by law) and overcharging tourists by up to three times the normal fare. Never use an unmarked taxi or get into any taxi if the driver looks drunk. If possible, use a taxi booking smartphone app such as My Teksi, which records the entire ride's GPS data, as well as the driver's name, license plate number, and the fact you booked it. MyTeksi drivers have to use the meter (and the service lets you know before you book approximately how much it will cost).

A Most shopping malls, as well as KL Sentral, have taxi booths where you either prepay for your ride (letting the cashier know where you want to go), or pay RM2 for a voucher which guarantees the driver will use his meter.

Tourist Buses

Best for... Getting around to the sights. Avoid KL's slow public buses.

A The double-decker, wi-fi enabled buses of the KL Hop-On Hop-Off (%2166 6162; www.myhoponhopoff.com; adult/child 24h/48h ticket RM45/24 & 79/43; h9am-8pm) program stop at 42 sights and attractions (including major shopping malls and 100 hotels). Buses run every 30 minutes, though between 4pm and 6pm you may have to wait for one with seats. Stops are obvious and you can, as the name suggests, get on and off at will, with a single ticket. Tickets are valid for 24 or 48 hours from your first ride, so it makes sense to start in the afternoon on the first day. You can purchase online or directly on the bus.

A Go KL City Bus is a free bus run by Rapid KL (www.myrapid.com.my). It's good for getting around the city between neighbourhoods and to some tourist areas.

Essential Information

Business Hours

Banks 10am to 3pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am to 11.30am Saturday.

Restaurants Noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.

Shops 9.30am to 7pm, malls 10am to 10pm, usually closed either Monday or Tuesday.

Bars 5pm to 1am Sunday to Thursday, to 3am Friday and Saturday.

Clubs 9pm to 3am Tuesday or Wednesday to Saturday.

Discount Cards

Some top-end shopping malls offer select discounts if you register with your passport at the information desk.

Electricity

Emergency

Fire 994

Police & Ambulance 999 (also 112 from cell phone)

Tourist Police 2166 8322

Money

The basic unit of Malaysian money is the ringgit (RM), which is comprised of 100 sens. Coins in use are 1 sen, 5 sen, 10 sen, 20 sen and 50 sen; notes are RM1, RM5, RM10, RM50 and RM100.

ATMs

Most banks and shopping malls provide international ATMs linked to international banking networks such as Cirrus, Maestro and Plus. Your best bet are Maybank and HSBC ATMs, but note it's common for cards to not be accepted in some ATM machines, or for your daily limit to be less than at home. Ideally bring two cards with you and some cash (or even travellers cheques). Also check with your home bank about its reciprocal relationships with Malaysian banks.

Credit Cards

A Credit cards are widely accepted, though at small shops and restaurants it's usually cash only. Visa followed by MasterCard and AMEX are the most widely accepted credit cards.

A Cash advances on credit cards at major banks are possible.

Tipping

A In better restaurants expect a 10% service fee. In casual places locals often leave the change after paying.

A Tip taxi drivers who help with your bags, porters in hotels (couple of RM per bag) and housekeeping (couple of RM per day).

Travellers Cheques & Cash

A Malaysian banks will exchange cash and travellers cheques and there are plenty of moneychangers about. Banks usually charge a commission for cashing cheques (around RM10 per transaction, with a possible extra fee for each cheque), whereas moneychangers have no charges but their rates are more variable.

A All major brands of travellers cheques are accepted. Cash in major currencies is also readily exchanged, though the US dollar has a slight edge.

Taxes

A GST (goods and services tax) of 6% will be implemented in April 2015. The 10% service fee added to meals, hotel rooms and other services at midrange to top-end places is likely to remain. This fee (not a tax) is often expressed as '++' next to the price. Tourists are expected to be able to apply for a GST refund on goods taken out of the country.

Public Holidays

As well as fixed secular holidays, various religious festivals (which change dates annually) are national holidays. These include Chinese New Year (January/February), the Hindu festival of Deepavali (October/November), the Buddhist festival of Wesak (April/May) and the Muslim festivals of Hari Raya Haji, Hari Raya Puasa, Mawlid al-Nabi and Awal Muharram (Muslim New Year).

Fixed annual holidays include the following:

New Year's Day 1 January

Federal Territory Day 1 February

Labor Day 1 May

Yang di-Pertuan Agong's (Kings) Birthday 1st Saturday in June

National Day (Hari Kebang-saan) 31 August

Christmas Day 25 December

Managing Kuala Lumpur's Many Holidays

Malaysia has a full roster of public holidays and during Ramadan, Deepavali and Chinese New Year there is a festive atmosphere about town, much like Christmas in the West. Be aware that hotels and transport can be booked solid, and restaurants, banks, museums and other tourist attractions closed during these times. ATMs may also be short on cash (before Ramadan is particularly bad for withdrawals). The city never entirely shuts down, and when one ethnic group is off celebrating, another will usually take the slack. During Chinese New Year, for example, many Chinese go to Little India to eat.

Safe Travel

KL is generally safe, but there are a lot of seedy areas in the city, violent attacks in popular nightlife areas are not infrequent, and scams and even assaults by taxi drivers are far too common. So keep your wits about you.

Watch for pickpockets and see Click here for advice on safe travel by taxi. Bathrooms in malls are often very isolated so never send children there alone.

Dengue Fever

An extremely serious threat in recent years. Cover up exposed skin and wear a strong mosquito repellent.

Scams

The most common scams involve seemingly friendly locals. Anyone who accosts you in the street asking where you come from or claiming to have a ‘relative studying abroad’ may be setting you up for a scam – the best tactic is not to reply at all.

Use credit cards only at established businesses and guard card numbers closely.

Theft & Violence

Bag snatches are common and muggings are becoming more frequent. Keep bags close to your side, and be aware of any motorcycles approaching you from behind.

Telephone

Mobile Phones

A Malaysia is on a GSM and 3G/4G network. You can pick up a local SIM card at the airport on arrival from one of three local carriers: Celcom (www.celcom.com.my); DiGi (www.digi.com.my); or Maxis (www.maxis.com.my). A five-day plan with 16 minutes of local calls and 2G of data costs around RM28. To top up your credit look for a phone shop in any mall.

A For international calls your first choice should be to use a VOIP service app or laptop software such as Skype, which works on wi-fi or 3G.

Useful Numbers

A Malaysia country code: 60

A Kuala Lumpur city code: 03 (you must use this prefix when calling a landline from a mobile phone)

A International access code from Malaysia: 00

A Operator-assisted calls: 101

Toilets

Western-style sit-down toilets are becoming the norm, but squat toilets are still common. Toilet paper is not usually provided. Public toilets in malls often charge entry, which usually includes toilet paper. Cleanliness is generally tolerable to quite good.

Tourist Information

Visit KL ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2698 0332; www.visitkl.gov.my; KL City Gallery, Merdeka Sq; h9am-6.30pm; W; jMasjid Jamek) The official city tourism office has helpful staff, informative displays, and a great city tourist map.

Travellers with Disabilities

For the mobility impaired, KL can be a nightmare. There are often no footpaths, kerbs can be very high, construction sites are everywhere, and pedestrian crossings are few and far between.

Before setting off get in touch with your national support organisation. Also try the following:

Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com) In the US.

Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org) In the US.

Nican (www.nican.com.au) In Australia.

Tourism For All (www.tourismforall.org.uk) In the UK.

Visas

A Visitors must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry, and may need proof of an onward ticket and sufficient funds. The rules for visa and visa-on-arrival entries are ever changing for some countries; see https://malaysia.visahq.com for guidelines.

A In general, travellers from Western nations, Japan and many Middle Eastern countries receive a stamp on arrival for a 90-day stay. Nationals from Singapore, the Netherlands, Switzerland and Russia receive 30 days. Most other nationals require pre-arranged visas.

Language

Behind the Scenes

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Robert's Thanks

Thanks to Hardeep, local fount of knowledge. To Mauro and company, I appreciate you letting me test out itineraries on you. But most importantly, I dedicate this first edition of Pocket Kuala Lumpur to my soon-to-be wife Tania Simonetti, and our soon-to-be child, as yet un-named but very much loved.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Petronas Towers and KLCC, Maurizio Rellini/4Corners.

This Book

This 1st edition of Pocket Kuala Lumpur was researched and written by Robert Kelly. The guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Sarah Reid

Product Editors Katie O’Connell, Alison Ridgway

Regional Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan

Book Designer Virginia Moreno

Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Gabrielle Stefanos

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews, ClaireNaylor, Karyn Noble, Luna Soo, Lauren Wellicome

Ebook thanks to Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Robert Kelly

A frequent visitor to KL, Robert finally settled in the city in 2013, moving into the jungly hills east of the city centre where he wrote this guide. Having lived in Taiwan for 15 years prior, Robert enjoys the familiarity of Chinatown, just one element of the enchanting KL mise-en-scène – a gloriously diverse stage of food, languages, styles and peoples. The freelance writer and photographer has also contributed to Lonely Planet guides to Taiwan, China, Alaska and Tibet, and is currently working on a collection of travel stories set in Asia which will feature a history of coffee drinking in Malaysia.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

1 edition - May 2015

ISBN 9781743606810

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

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