Contents

QuickStart Guide

Welcome to Honolulu

Top Sights

Local Life

Day Planner

Need to Know

Honolulu

Explore

Downtown Honolulu & Chinatown

Ala Moana & Around

University Area

Bishop Museum

Lyon Arboretum & Upper Manoa Valley

Pearl Harbor

Waikiki

Diamond Head & Kahala

Hawaii Kai & Southeast Oahu

Kailua & Kaneohe

Best

The Best of Honolulu

Historical Honolulu

Waikiki Wander

Beaches

Eating

Drinking & Entertainment

Museums

Hawaiiana Shopping

Festivals & Events

For Kids

Outdoor Activities

Hikes

Shopping Centers

Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

For Free

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Honolulu

Getting Around

Essential Information

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Honolulu

Landing at Honolulu's airport may plunge you into the Hawaiian-style urban jungle, but relax, it's still Polynesia. Even among downtown high-rises, you'll find capital city power brokers in breezy aloha shirts. By day, inspect royal feathered capes or hang out at the beach, then swizzle mai tais while slack key guitars play at Waikiki Beach after dark.

Waikiki Beach

DHOXAX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1

Honolulu

Top Sights

Kuhio Beach

Kuhio Beach in Waikiki has everything on offer from protected swimming to surfing lessons, outrigger-canoe rides to catamaran trips, and even a free sunset-hula and Hawaiian music show. Click here

Kuhio Beach

ROSAIRENEBETANCOURT 5 / ALAMY ©

Honolulu Top Sights

'Iolani Palace

'Iolani Palace, the USA's only royal palace, has been lovingly and painstakingly renovated. No other place evokes a more poignant sense of Hawaii's history. Click here

‘Iolani Palace

GREGORY OLSEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Hanauma Bay

This wide, curved bay of sapphire and turquoise waters protected by a coral reef is a gem, especially for snorkelers. Head here to eyeball technicolor tropical fish through your mask. Click here

Hanauma Bay

DAVID WALL PHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Pearl Harbor

One of the USA's most significant WWII sites, the WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument at Pearl Harbor narrates the history of the attack and commemorates fallen service members. Click here

Pearl Harbor

DOUGLAS PEEBLES/ALAMY ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Diamond Head

A dramatic backdrop for Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head is one of the best-known landmarks in Hawaii. It was named in 1825 when British sailors thought they'd found diamonds and struck it rich. Click here

Diamond Head

VITO PALMISANO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Honolulu Museum of Art

This exceptional fine arts museum may be the most pleasant surprise of your trip to Hawaii. Inviting and airy with stunning exhibitions and collections. Click here

Honolulu Museum of Art

JAMES NESTERWITZ/ALAMY ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Bishop Museum

One of the finest Polynesian anthropological museums in the world, Bishop Museum is considered to be Honolulu's version of the Smithsonian Institute. An attraction for the whole family. Click here

Bishop Museum

ANN CECIL / GETTY IMAGES ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Shangri La

Celebrity Doris Duke's passion for both Hawaii and Islamic art is encapsulated at Shangri La, her seasonal residence on Black Point, in the shadow of Diamond Head. Click here

Shangri La

ALVIS UPITIS/ALAMY ©

Honolulu Top Sights

Lyon Arboretum & Upper Manoa Valley

Oʻahu is not all surf and sand. Inland are lush, verdant mountains and valleys, hiking trails and botanical gardens. Make the most of the green and explore the Upper Manoa Valley. Click here

Upper Manoa Valley

MARK A. JOHNSON/ALAMY ©

l

Honolulu

Local Life

Insider tips to help you find the real Honolulu

After checking off Honolulu’s top sights, here’s how you can experience what makes the city tick – hip local hangouts, neighborhood favorites, family hotspots and quirky shops that make up multiethnic Honolulu.

Historic Chinatown Walk

A Multiethnic hotspots

A Honolulu history

Though most Chinese entrepreneurs have long since moved out and been replaced by newer immigrants, the scent of burning incense still wafts through Chinatown’s buzzing markets, fire-breathing dragons spiral up the columns of buildings and steaming dim sum awakens even the sleepiest of appetites.

Hang Out in Ala Moana

A Beach options

A Shopping spots

Locals know that Ala Moana offers more than just a shopping center. Ward Center and Ward Warehouse offer excellent eating and browsing options, while the beach park and Magic Island are stunners that many staying in Waikiki don't even realize are there.

Volleyball players, Ala Moana Beach Park

JEFFG / ALAMY ©

Stroll Like a UH Student

A Student days

A Drinking options

The main campus of the University of Hawai‘i is breezy, tree-shaded and crowded with students from the mainland, Hawaii itself and countries all around the world. The UH campus and surrounding areas feel youthful, with a collection of cafes, eclectic restaurants and one-of-a-kind shops.

A Wander through Waikiki

A Relaxed Waikiki

A Beaches and parks

Waikiki may be full of tourists, but don't forget that the locals live here too. From the southern end of Kuhio Beach Park, avenues radiate off in different directions to local spots like Kaimana Beach, Waikiki School (lucky kids!) and Waikiki-Kapahulu Library.

Kalapawai Market

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Other great places to experience the city like a local:

Gyotaku by Naoki

Fresh Cafe Downtown

Kalapawai Market

Tin Can Mailman

Fabric Mart

Waikiki Community Center

Waiola Shave Ice

People's Open Market

KCC Farmers Market

Tamura's Poke

R

Honolulu

Day Planner

Short on time?

We’ve arranged Honolulu’s must-sees into these day-by-day itineraries to make sure you see the very best of the city in the time you have available.

Day One

M Get an early start and head to Honolulu's historical district. ʻIolani Palace, the State Capitol and the Hawaiʻi State Art Museum are due some of your limited time. Take a break at Cafe Julia before walking through downtown to check out the views from Aloha Tower.

R You're going to Waikiki this afternoon. Spend an hour or two at Kuhio Beach Park with some quality sand and water time. Don't miss the Duke Kahanamoku Statue and consider a Na Hoku II Catamaran cruise.

N Watch the free Kuhio Beach Torch Lighting & Hula Show, then head in for drinks at House Without a Key. Roy's Waikiki is a great option for dinner and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel's low-key Mai Tai Bar for after.

Day Two

M It's going to be a busy day so get a good start. Head to WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument at Pearl Harbor, but keep your time constraints in mind. At the least, you'll want to head out to the USS Arizona Memorial and Battleship Missouri Memorial.

R If you can manage it, get to Helena's Hawaiian Food for lunch. It's few blocks from Bishop Museum, where you'll be heading next. The Hawaiian Hall is stunning and everyone enjoys the Science Adventure Center.

N On your way home, drop into Uncle Bo's Pupu Bar & Grill on Kapahulu Ave, inland from the main Waikiki strip. You'll need to go to Leonard's, a bit further up the road, for malasadas (Portuguese-style doughnuts) for dessert. If you're still going, have a drink at RumFire at the Sheraton Waikiki.

Day Three

M You're in for an early morning to climb Diamond Head before the crowds and heat of the day hit. Drop in to Diamond Head Cove Health Bar either on the way or way back for refreshments. You'll need a swim at Sans Souci Beach to get you ready for the rest of the day.

R Head to the Honolulu Museum of Art and peruse this exceptional fine arts museum, timing your visit with a tour to Shangri La – all tours to Doris Duke's former residence depart from the museum. The Honolulu Museum of Art Cafe is a great spot for lunch.

N Later in the afternoon, carry on from there into Chinatown where dinner at The Pig & the Lady can be followed up by some jazz or blues at Dragon Upstairs, an intimate spot directly above Hank's Cafe. There's plenty going on in Chinatown if you're into bar-hopping.

Day Four

M Start your day early and get out to Hanauma Bay for some quality snorkeling before the crowds arrive. Kokonuts Shave Ice & Snacks and Bubbies are in Hawaiʻi Kai's Koko Marina Center to quench your need for refreshments.

R Take time out for stops at Lanaʻi Lookout, Halona Blowhole and Sandy Beach Park before rounding the island's easternmost point at Makapuʻu Point. Drive into Waimanalo Bay Beach Park for a quick swim or a stroll on the beach, followed by sustenance at Sweet Home Waimanalo. Head up to Kaneʻohe and drop in to Gyotaku by Naoki before visiting the Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-In.

N Kailua Beach awaits for a late afternoon stroll, followed by some shopping at the Kailua Shopping Center and a relaxed dinner at Kailua Town Pub & Grill. Don't have too many drinks though; you'll need to drive back over the Pali Hwy to Honolulu or Waikiki.

Need to Know

Currency

US dollar ($)

Language

English, Hawaiian

Visas

Generally not required for stays of 90 days or less for citizens of Visa Waiver Program (VWP) countries with ESTA approval.

Money

ATMs widely available. Credit cards widely accepted; often required for reservations.

Cell Phones

International travelers need a multiband GSM phone; SIM cards are widely available. US carrier Verizon has the best network.

Time

Hawaii-Aleutian Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus 10 hours); no daylight saving.

Plugs & Adaptors

Plugs are the same as on the US mainland, for the most part using two flat pins; current is 120V.

Tipping

Tipping practices are the same as on the US mainland – 15% to 20% at restaurants and bars.

1Before You Go

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than $150

A Waikiki hostel: $25–$35

A Walk to the beach

A Buses and a taxi or two to get around

A Mostly self-catering and plate lunches

Midrange $150–$350

A Waikiki budget hotel or Kailua vacation rental: $90–$160

A Car rental for a couple of days

A Activities like surfing or stand-up paddling

A Restaurant meals as well as food-truck fare

Top End over $350

A Full-service resort room

A Top chef-made meals

A Whale-watching tours, activity rentals, spa services

Useful Websites

A Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

A Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com) Official tourism site; comprehensive events calendar.

A Honolulu Star-Advertiser (www.staradvertiser.com) Hawaii’s biggest daily newspaper.

Advance Planning

A Two weeks before Reserve in-demand activities such as Valor in the Pacific National Monument, ʻIolani Palace and Doris Duke’s Shangri La.

A One week before Make reservations for any top restaurants, especially in Waikiki and Honolulu.

2Arriving in Honolulu

Honolulu International Airport (HNL; http://hawaii.gov/hnl) The vast majority of flights into Hawaii land here, about 6 miles northwest of downtown Honolulu and 9 miles northwest of Waikiki. Oʻahu’s only commercial airport, it’s a hub for domestic, international and inter-island flights.

A From Honolulu International Airport

Airport shuttle one-way/round-trip $15/30 to Waikiki; operates 24 hours (every 20 to 60 minutes).

Taxi Metered, $35 to $45 to Waikiki, 20 to 45 minutes depending on traffic.

Car Via Hwy 92 (Nimitz Fwy/Ala Moana Blvd) or H-1 (Lunalilo) Fwy to Waikiki.

Bus Routes 19 and 20 to Waikiki (one carry-on bag only per person) $2.50, every 20 to 60 minutes from 6am to 11pm daily.

A At the Airport

The airport is a modern facility with all the usual amenities such as currency exchange booths, duty-free shops and fast-food eateries, as well as flower-lei stands. You’ll find visitor information desks, car-rental counters and courtesy phones in the baggage claim area.

3Getting Around

Oʻahu and Honolulu's only public transportation is TheBus, an extensive network that is convenient and easy to use, but you can't set your watch by it. A rental car is a good option unless you are planning to just stay in Waikiki.

J Bus

TheBus (www.thebus.org) is a good way to get around if you have time on your side; schedules are frequent, service is reliable and fares are inexpensive.

K Car

Most visitors on Oʻahu rent their own vehicles; this is without doubt the easiest way to get around. Parking charges are high in Waikiki; it may pay to hire a car by the day from a Waikiki rental outlet rather than hiring a car from the airport for your entire stay.

H Bicycle

Cycling around Oʻahu is a great, nonpolluting way to travel, but realistically, as a primary mode of transportation, cycling can be challenge.

Moped & Motorcycle

Surprisingly, a moped or motorcycle can be more expensive to rent than a car. Both are rented in Waikiki, but you’ll have to contend with heavy urban traffic.

K Taxi

Taxis are metered and readily available at the airport, resort hotels and shopping malls, but otherwise you’ll probably need to call for one.

Honolulu

Downtown Honolulu & Chinatown

Ala Moana & Around

Waikiki

Diamond Head & Kahala

Hawaii Kai & Southeast Oahu

Kailua & Kaneohe

Downtown Honolulu & Chinatown

Here in Honolulu, you get to shake hands with the real Hawaii. A boisterous Polynesian capital, Honolulu delivers an island-style mixed plate of experiences. In Downtown you'll find an unmatched collection of historic sites, museums and gardens – including the USA's only royal palace – while in Chinatown you can poke your way around intriguing alleyways, eateries and marketplaces.

DENNIS MACDONALD/ALAMY ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start your day with a walk around the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, known locally as the Punchbowl. Next up, head to Downtown. You'll be on your feet from here. Visit ‘Iolani Palace, then head over Richards St to Cafe Julia for lunch.

R Wander up Richards to the thought-provoking Hawaiʻi State Art Museum. Next, walk down past the Father Damien Statue, through the center of the State Capitol, past the Queen Lili‘uokalani Statue, and through the ʻIolani Palace grounds to Aliʻiolani Hale with its Kamehameha the Great Statue out front.

N It's time to walk northwest on King St to Chinatown. Take a break at Vita Juice in Fort Street Mall, then check out the beautifully restored Hawaii Theatre. Wander the atmospheric streets. Dinner at The Pig & the Lady is a great option, then head to Dragon Upstairs for some soothing jazz.

1  Top Sights

‘Iolani Palace

l  Local Life

Historic Chinatown

x  Best of Honolulu

Eating

Cafe Julia

The Pig & The Lady

Drinking & Entertainment

Dragon Upstairs

Hawaii Theatre

Kumu Kahua Theatre

Museums

ʻIolani Palace

Mission Houses Museum

Hawaiʻi State Art Museum

Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

Foster Botanical Garden

National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific

Getting There

g Bus A large number of TheBus routes pass through Downtown & Chinatown including 2, 4, 8, 13, 19, 20 & 42

u Car The H-1 (Lunalilo Fwy) has a number of downtown exits. Hwy 92 (Ala Moana Blvd/Nimitz Hwy) is also close by. There are a number of one-way streets. There is metered parking plus municipal parking lots and garages.

1

Top Sights

‘Iolani Palace

Perhaps no other place evokes a more poignant sense of Hawaii’s history than this royal palace where plots and counter-plots simmered. Commissioned by King David Kalakaua (r 1874–91) and completed in 1882, the palace did little to assert Hawaii’s sovereignty over powerful US-influenced business interests, who overthrew the kingdom in 1893. The palace then served as the capitol of the republic, then the territory and later the state of Hawaii. The building has been painstakingly restored to its former glory.

‘Iolani Palace at dusk

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

MAP GOOGLE MAP

%808-522-0832; www.iolanipalace.org; 364 S King St; grounds admission free, adult/child basement galleries $7/3, self-guided audiotour $15/6, guided tour $22/6; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, last entry 4pm

y Top Tips

A It’s advisable to call ahead for reservations and to double-check schedules, especially during busy periods.

A If you’re short on time or the tours are sold out, head downstairs to the basement’s gallery exhibits, which include royal regalia, historical photographs and reconstructions of the palace kitchen and chamberlain’s office.

A Kapu means 'forbidden', but more importantly, it also means 'sacred' or 'consecrated.' Respect the sanctity of the Palace grounds and anywhere marked kapu.

5 Take a Break

Cross over Richards St to the charming old YMCA Laniakea building and quench your thirst or hunger pains at Cafe Julia.

Don't Miss

The Coronation Pavilion

Keli‘iponi Hale, the Coronation Pavilion, was built for the 1883 coronation of King David Kalakaua and Queen Kapi‘olani. Often used for the inauguration of Governors of the State of Hawaii, this Victorian-style gazebo is on the western lawn of the palace grounds.

‘Iolani Barracks

Presently housing the palace ticket office, shop and video theater, the impressive 'Iolani Barracks was built of coral blocks and completed in 1871 on the site of the present state capitol. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy and the disbanding of the Royal Guard, the building had various uses until it was dismantled block by block and reconstructed at its present site just to the north of the palace in 1965.

Queen Lili‘uokalani Statue

Pointedly positioned between the state capitol building and ʻIolani Palace is a life-size bronze statue of Queen Liliʻuokalani ( GOOGLE MAP ), Hawaii’s last reigning monarch. She holds a copy of the Hawaiian constitution she wrote in 1893 in an attempt to strengthen Hawaiian rule; ‘Aloha ʻOe,’ a popular song she composed; and Kumulipo, the traditional Hawaiian chant of creation.

Royal Hawaiian Band Concerts

With a long tradition of sharing Hawaii's music with the world, the Royal Hawaiian Band presents free concerts on the 'Iolani Palace Grounds most Fridays (check the schedule online), from noon to 1pm, weather permitting.

y

Top Tip

Architectural Walking Tour

Led by professional architects, the historically minded Architectural Walking Tour (%808-628-7243; www.aiahonolulu.org; tours $10; husually 9-11:30am Sat) will literally change your perspective on downtown Honolulu’s capitol district. Reservations required – register online.

l

Local Life

Historic Chinatown Walk

Though most successful Chinese entrepreneurs have long since moved out, making room for newer waves of mainly Southeast Asian immigrants, the scent of burning incense still wafts through Chinatown’s buzzing markets, fire-breathing dragons spiral up the columns of buildings and steaming dim sum awakens even the sleepiest of appetites. Take a few hours to enjoy a wander through Honolulu's historic Chinatown.

1 The Stone Lions

Start at the stone lions flanking Hotel St at Dr Sun Yat-sen Memorial Park. Sun Yat-sen lived in Hawaii from 1879, was educated at 'Iolani School and O‘ahu College (later to become Punahou School), and became President of the Republic of China in 1912. Check out the park's statue of the flying turtle (honu) over the pond.

2 Hawaii Theatre

Just up Bethel St and beautifully restored, the Hawaii Theatre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-528-0506; www.hawaiitheatre.com; 1130 Bethel St) is the grande dame of Oʻahu’s theater scene, a major venue for dance, music and theater. Nicknamed the 'Pride of the Pacific', it hosts top Hawaii musicians, contemporary plays, international touring acts and film festivals.

3 Nu‘uanu Ave

Sailors used to hang out and drink along Nu‘uanu. The avenue's granite-block sidewalks are themselves relics, the discarded ballast of 19th-century trading ships. At the corner of King St, peek into the First Hawaiian Bank with its antique wooden teller cages that had a cameo in the TV show Lost.

4 Hawai‘i Heritage Center

The community-run Hawai‘i Heritage Center is a friendly gallery that displays historical and cultural exhibitions about Oʻahu’s Chinese, Japanese and other ethnic communities – including the Scots! Turn left onto seedy Hotel St, historically Honolulu's red-light district and now a row of trendy lounges, nightclubs, eateries and coffeehouses.

5 Wo Fat Building

At the corner of Maunakea St, opposite the Chinatown Police Station, the ornate facade of the Wo Fat Building resembles a Chinese temple. The building – and, incidentally, also the villain of the Hawaii Five-0 TV series – is named after Honolulu's oldest restaurant, which opened here in 1882 (it's now closed).

6 Chinatown Markets

On King St, continue past the red pillars coiled with dragons outside the Bank of Hawaii to the corner of Kekaulike St and venture inside the buzzing O‘ahu Market. In the pedestrian mall opposite is the newer, but equally vibrant, Kekaulike Market, while the Maunakea Marketplace, off Hotel St, has an intriguing and popular food court.

7 Lei Shops & Herbalists

Back on Maunakea and heading northeast, you'll pass lei shops where skilled artisans string and braid blossom after blossom, filling the air with the scent of pikake. Keep your eye open for herbalists and acupuncturists. Cross S Beretania St, then head left down to the riverside.

8 Chinatown Cultural Plaza

A statue of Dr Sun Yat-sen stands guard over the senior citizens playing checkers and cards at stone tables outdoors at the River St pedestrian mall. End your stroll by taking a break at one of the countless Chinese restaurants in the sprawling multistory Chinatown Cultural Plaza.

1 Top Sights

ʻIolani Palace  D5

1 Sights

1State Capitol  E5

2Father Damien Statue  E5

3Hawaiʻi State Art Museum  D4

4Aliʻiolani Hale  C6

5Kamehameha the Great Statue  D6

6Kawaiahaʻo Church  D7

7Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site and Archives  E7

8Washington Place  E4

9Cathedral of St Andrew  E4

10Aloha Tower  A5

11Foster Botanical Garden  D1

12National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific  E3

5 Eating

13Bishop St Cafe  B5

14Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas  C8

15Hukilau  C4

16Vita Juice  C4

17ʻUmeke Market & Deli  C4

18Pho To-Chau  B2

19Mei Sum  C3

20Mabuhay Cafe & Restaurant  B2

21Downbeat Diner & Lounge  B3

22Little Village Noodle House  B3

23Soul de Cuba  C3

24The Pig & the Lady  B3

25Lucky Belly  B3

26Duc's Bistro  C2

6 Drinking

27Manifest  C3

28Beach Bum Cafe  C4

29Honolulu Coffee Company  C5

30Tea at 1024  B3

31Hank's Cafe  B3

32Bar 35  B3

33Fix Sports Lounge & Nightclub  C3

34Next Door  B3

3 Entertainment

Dragon Upstairs  B3

35ARTS at Marks Garage  C3

36Kumu Kahua Theatre  B4

7 Shopping

37Cindy's Lei Shoppe  B3

38Kamaka Hawaii  C8

39Madre Chocolate  C3

Sights

1State CapitolBUILDING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Built in the architecturally interesting 1960s, Hawaii’s state capitol is a poster child of conceptual postmodernism: two cone-shaped legislative chambers have sloping walls to represent volcanoes; the supporting columns shaped like coconut palms symbolize the eight main islands; and a large encircling pool represents the Pacific Ocean surrounding Hawaii. Visitors are free to walk through the open-air rotunda and peer through viewing windows into the legislative chambers. Pick up a self-guided tour brochure on the 4th floor from Room 415.

(%808-586-0178; 415 S Beretania St; h7:45am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

1Father Damien StatueSTATUE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

In front of the capitol is a highly stylized statue of Father Damien, the Belgian priest who lived and worked with victims of Hansen’s disease (leprosy) who were exiled to the island of Molokaʻi during the late 19th century, before later dying of the disease himself. In 2009 the Catholic Church canonized Father Damien as Hawaii’s first saint after the allegedly miraculous recovery from cancer in 1988 of a Honolulu schoolteacher who had prayed over Damien’s original grave site on Molokaʻi.

1Hawaiʻi State Art MuseumMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

With its vibrant, thought-provoking collections, this public art museum brings together traditional and contemporary art from Hawaii’s multiethnic communities. The museum inhabits a grand 1928 Spanish Mission Revival–style building, formerly a YMCA and today a nationally registered historic site.

(%808-586-0900; www.hawaii.gov/sfca; 2nd fl, No 1 Capitol District Bldg, 250 S Hotel St; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, also 6-9pm 1st Fri each month)

1Aliʻiolani HaleHISTORIC BUILDING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

The first major government building ordered by the Hawaiian monarchy in 1874, the ‘House of Heavenly Kings’ was designed by Australian architect Thomas Rowe to be a royal palace, although it was never used as such. Today, it houses the Supreme Court of Hawai‘i. Go through the security checkpoint and step inside the King Kamehameha V Judiciary History Center, where you can browse thought-provoking historical displays about martial law during WWII and the reign of Kamehameha I.

(%808-539-4999; www.jhchawaii.net; 417 S King St; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Ali‘iolani Hale and the Kamehameha the Great Statue

SHANEFF CARL/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Kamehameha the Great StatueSTATUE

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Standing before the Ali‘iolani Hale, a bronze statue of Kamehameha the Great faces ʻIolani Palace. Often ceremonially draped with layers of flower lei, the statue was cast in 1880 in Florence, Italy, by American sculptor Thomas Gould. The current statue is a recast, as the first statue was lost at sea near the Falkland Islands. It was dedicated here in 1883, just a decade before the Hawaiian monarchy would be overthrown.

1Kawaiahaʻo ChurchCHURCH

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Nicknamed ‘Westminster Abbey of the Pacific,’ Oʻahu’s oldest church was built on the site where the first missionaries constructed a grass thatch church shortly after their arrival in 1820. The original structure seated 300 Hawaiians on lauhala mats, woven from hala (screwpine) leaves. This 1842 New England Gothic–style church is made of 14,000 coral slabs, which divers chiseled out of Oʻahu’s underwater reefs – a weighty task that took four years.

(%808-469-3000; www.kawaiahao.org; 957 Punchbowl St; husually 8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri, worship service 9am Sun)

1Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site and ArchivesMUSEUM

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Occupying the original headquarters of the Sandwich Islands mission that forever changed the course of Hawaiian history, this modest museum is authentically furnished with handmade quilts on the beds and iron cooking pots in the stone fireplaces. You’ll need to take a guided tour to peek inside any of the buildings.

(%808-447-3910; www.missionhouses.org; 553 S King St; 1hr guided tour adult/child 6-18yr & college student with ID $10/6; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, guided tours usually 11am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm)

1Washington PlaceHISTORIC BUILDING

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Formerly the governor’s official residence, this colonial-style mansion was built in 1846 by US sea captain John Dominis. The captain’s son became the governor of Oʻahu and married the Hawaiian princess who later became Queen Liliʻuokalani. After the queen was released from house arrest inside ʻIolani Palace in 1896, she lived here until her death in 1917. A plaque near the sidewalk is inscribed with the lyrics to ‘Aloha ʻOe,’ the patriotic anthem she composed.

(%808-586-0240; http://governor.hawaii.gov/about/historic-washington-place/; 320 S Beretania St; htours by appointment only, usually at 10am Thu)

1Cathedral of St AndrewCHURCH

MAP GOOGLE MAP

King Kamehameha IV, attracted to the royal Church of England, decided to build his own cathedral and founded the Anglican Church in Hawaii in 1861. The cathedral’s cornerstone was laid in 1867, four years after his death on St Andrew’s Day – hence the church’s name. The architecture is French Gothic, utilizing stone and stained glass shipped from England. For a free lunchtime concert, the largest pipe organ in the Pacific is sonorously played every Friday at 12.15pm.

(%808-524-2822; www.saintandrewscathedral.net; 229 Queen Emma Sq; husually 8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri, tours 11:50am Sun; p)

1Aloha TowerLANDMARK

MAP GOOGLE MAP

Built in 1926, this 10-story landmark was once the city’s tallest building. In the golden days when all tourists to Hawaii arrived by ship, this pre-WWII waterfront icon – with its four-sided clock tower inscribed with ‘Aloha’ – greeted every visitor. These days, Hawaii Pacific University has bought the Aloha Tower Marketplace and is revitalizing it for retail, dining and student housing. Take the elevator to the top-floor tower observation deck for 360-degree views of Honolulu and the waterfront.

(www.alohatower.com; 1 Aloha Tower Dr; h9:30am-5pm; p)

1Foster Botanical GardenGARDENS

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Tropical plants you’ve only ever read about can be spotted in all their glory at this botanic garden, which took root in 1850. Among its rarest specimens are the Hawaiian loulu palm and the East African Gigasiphon macrosiphon, both thought to be extinct in the wild. Several of the garden’s towering trees are the largest of their kind in the USA.

(%808-522-7066; www.honolulu.gov/parks/hbg.html; 180 N Vineyard Blvd; adult/child 6-12yr $5/1; h9am-4pm, guided tours usually 1pm Mon-Sat; p)

1National Memorial Cemetery of the PacificCEMETERY

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Northeast of downtown Honolulu is a bowl-shaped crater, nicknamed the Punchbowl, formed by a long-extinct volcano. Hawaiians called the crater Puowaina (‘hill of human sacrifices’). It’s believed that at an ancient heiau here the slain bodies of kapu (taboo) breakers were ceremonially cremated upon an altar. Today the remains of ancient Hawaiians sacrificed to appease the gods share the crater floor with the bodies of nearly 50,000 soldiers, many of whom were killed in the Pacific during WWII.

(%808-532-3720; www.cem.va.gov/cems/nchp/nmcp.asp; 2177 Puowaina Dr; h8am-5:30pm Sep 30-Mar 1, 8am-6:30pm Mar 2-Sep 29; p)

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Top Tip

Tantulus-Round Top Scenic Drive

Starting above downtown Honolulu and the H-1 Fwy, this 10-mile circuit is a loop called Tantalus Dr on its western side, Round Top Dr to the east.

Offering skyline views to drivers and cyclists alike, the twisting road climbs almost to the top of Mt Tantalus (2013ft), aka Puʻu ʻOhiʻa. Bamboo, ginger, elephant-eared taro and eucalyptus trees make up the roadside profusion of tropical plants. Many hiking trails branch off the loop, which passes by Pu‘u ‘Ualaka’a State Wayside, with its magnificent views, on the descent.

Understand

Hawaii's State Flag

You may notice that Hawaii’s state flag is quartered, with the Union Jack in the top left corner next to the flagpole. (You can see one in downtown Honolulu’s historic capitol district.) But Hawaii was never part of the British Commonwealth. Kamehameha the Great simply thought the Union Jack would add an element of regal splendor to Hawaii’s flag, so he took the liberty of adding it. The flag’s eight horizontal red, white and blue stripes represent the eight main islands. Today Native Hawaiian sovereignty activists often choose to fly the state flag upside down, a time-honored symbol of distress.

Eating

5Bishop St CafeJAPANESE, ITALIAN $

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Offering up lunches to Downtown workers in an extremely convivial setting, Bishop St Cafe is one of those lovely fusion places, serving equally good Japanese and Italian cuisine. There's outside courtyard seating in the historic Dillingham Transportation Building. Choices range from Japanese udon or soba noodles to paninis and pastas.

(%808-537-6951; www.facebook.com/bishopstreetcafe; 725 Bishop St; mains $7-15; h11am-3pm Mon-Fri)

5Hiroshi Eurasian TapasFUSION $$$

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A serious player on the Honolulu culinary scene, chef Hiroshi Fukui puts a Japanese twist on Pacific Rim fusion style, from crab cannelloni swirled with miso sauce to smoked hamachi (yellow-tail) with a garlicky habanero pepper kick. Order foamy tropical martinis and fresh-fruit sodas at the bar. Make reservations for dinner.

(%808-533-4476; www.hiroshihawaii.com; Waterfront Plaza, 500 Ala Moana Blvd; shared plates $9-17, mains $26-29; h5:30-9:30pm; p)

5HukilauHAWAIIAN $$

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Underground at downtown’s only high-rise hotel, this sports bar and grill serves an aloha-shirt-wearing business crowd. Huge salads, sandwiches and burgers aren’t as tempting as only-in-Hawaii specialties such as miso butterfish, kimchi (Korean seasoned vegetable pickle dish) and kalua (cooked in an underground pit) pig saimin (noodle soup) and ahi poke. Live music on most Friday nights.

(%808-523-3460; www.dahukilau.com/honolulu; Executive Centre, 1088 Bishop St; mains $11-20; h11am-2pm & 3-9pm Mon-Fri)

5Vita JuiceHEALTH FOOD $

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Flooded with Hawaiʻi Pacific University students, this orange-walled juice and smoothie bar takes the concept of ‘brain food’ seriously. Healthy ingredients range from Amazonian acai and Tibetan goji berries to green tea and ginseng.

(%808-526-1396; www.freewebs.com/vitajuice; 1111-C Fort St Mall; items $3-7; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri; v)

5ʻUmeke Market & DeliSUPERMARKET $

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Fresh, organic island produce, natural-foods groceries and a vegetarian- and vegan-friendly takeout deli counter for healthy pick-me-ups such as kale and quinoa salads, hummus sandwiches, hoisin turkey meatloaf and iced kombucha (effervescent tea).

(%808-522-7377; www.umekemarket.com; 1001 Bishop St; mains $4-10; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri; v)

5Pho To-ChauVIETNAMESE $

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Always packed, this Vietnamese restaurant holds fast to its hard-earned reputation for serving Honolulu’s best pho (Vietnamese noodle soup). With beef, broth and vegetables the dish is a complete meal in itself. It’s so popular that you may have to queue underneath the battered-looking sign outside to score one of a dozen or so rickety wooden tables.

(%808-533-4549; 1007 River St; mains $7-10; h8:30am-2:30pm)

5Mei SumCHINESE $$

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Where else can you go to satisfy that crazy craving for dim sum in the afternoon or evening (which maybe aren't as fresh as they are in the morning)? For over a decade, this no-nonsense corner stop has been cranking out a multitude of cheap little plates and a full spread of Chinese mains.

(%808-531-3268; 1170 Nuʻuanu Ave; dim-sum dishes $2-4, mains $8-23; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat & Sun)

5Mabuhay Cafe & RestaurantFILIPINO $

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The tablecloths, well-worn counter stools and jukebox should clue you in that this is a mom-and-pop joint. They’ve been cooking pots of succulent, garlic-laden pork adobo (meat marinated in vinegar and garlic) and kare-kare (oxtail stew) on this corner by the river since the 1960s.

(%808-545-1956; 1049 River St; mains $6-13; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat)

5Downbeat Diner & LoungeDINER $

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Shiny late-night diner with lipstick-red booths posts a vegetarian- and vegan-friendly menu of salads, sandwiches, grilled burgers and heaping island-style breakfasts such as loco moco (rice, fried egg and hamburger patty) and Portuguese sweet-bread French toast. The lounge, running a full bar, features live music three to four times per week.

(%808-533-2328; www.downbeatdiner.com; 42 N Hotel St; mains $5-15; h11am-midnight Mon, to 3am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; vc)

5Little Village Noodle HouseCHINESE $$

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Forget about chop suey. If you live for anything fishy in black-bean sauce, this is Honolulu’s gold standard. On the eclectic pan-Chinese menu, regional dishes are served up garlicky, fiery or with just the right dose of saltiness. For a cross-cultural combo, fork into sizzling butterfish or roasted pork with island-grown taro. Reservations recommended.

(%808-545-3008; 1113 Smith St; mains $8-22; h10:30am-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; a)

5Soul de CubaCUBAN $$

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Nowhere else in Honolulu can you sate your craving for Afro-Cuban food and out-of-this-world mojitos except at this hip resto-lounge near Chinatown’s art galleries. Stick with family-recipe classics such as ropa vieja (shredded beef in tomato sauce), bocadillos (sandwiches, served until 5pm) and black-bean soup. Reservations recommended.

(%808-545-2822; www.souldecuba.com; 1121 Bethel St; mains $10-24; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)

5Pig & the LadyASIAN, FUSION $$

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An award-winning Vietnamese Fusion restaurant where you'll need to book for an evening meal, The Pig & the Lady is one of the hottest new places to dine on the island. Imaginative lunch sandwiches come with shrimp chips or pho broth, while delicious dinner options include Laotian fried chicken and dipping-style pho tsukumen.

(%808-585-8255; http://thepigandthelady.com; 83 N King St; mains $10-25; h10.30am-2pm Mon-Sat plus 5.30-9.30pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

5Lucky BellyASIAN, FUSION $

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Where Japanese pop art hangs over sleek bistro tables packed elbows-to-shoulders, this arts-district noodle bar crafts hot and spicy Asian fusion bites, knock-out artisanal cocktails and amazingly fresh, almost architectural salads that the whole table can share. A 'Belly Bowl' of ramen soup topped with buttery pork belly, smoked bacon and pork sausage is carnivore heaven.

(%808-531-1888; www.luckybelly.com; 50 N Hotel St; mains $8-14; h11am-2pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

5Duc's BistroFUSION $$

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Honolulu’s bigwigs hang out after work at this swank French-Vietnamese bistro with a tiny bar. Ignore the surrounding seedy streets and step inside this culinary oasis for buttery escargot, bánh xèo (Vietnamese crepes), pan-fried fish with green mango relish, and fire-roasted eggplant. A small jazz combo serenades diners some evenings. Reservations recommended.

(%808-531-6325; www.ducsbistro.com; 1188 Maunakea St; mains $16-26; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri, 5-10pm daily)

Hawaiian speciality loco moco (rice, fried egg and hamburger patty topped with gravy)

MARK HARRIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Local Life

Cafe Julia

In the charming old YWCA Laniakea building opposite ‘Iolani Palace, Cafe Julia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-533-3334; http://cafejuliahawaii.com; 1040 Richards St; mains $10-28; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri. plus 4-9pm Wed-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-9pm Sun) is a gem. Named after Julia Morgan, one of the America's first female architects, who designed the building, the service and cuisine is superb. In an open-air setting, it's perfect for poke tacos or garlic ahi for lunch, or settling into a few cocktails in the evening.

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Top Tip

Hawaii Food Tours

The guys at Hawaii Food Tours (%808-926-3663; www.hawaiifoodtours.com; tours from $119) offer two extremely popular tours. The five-hour 'Hole-in-the-Wall' tour hits all sorts of spots around Honolulu such as Chinatown, island plate-lunch stops, beloved bakeries, crack-seed candy shops and more. The seven- to eight-hour 'North Shore Food Tour' heads to the other side of the island. Tours include food, fun and transportation. Reservations are essential.

Drinking

6ManifestBAR, CAFE

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Smack in the middle of Chinatown’s art scene, this lofty apartment-like space adorned with provocative photos and paintings doubles as a serene coffee shop by day and a cocktail bar by night, hosting movie and trivia nights and DJ sets (no cover). Foamy cappuccinos and spicy chais are daytime perfection.

(http://manifesthawaii.com; 32 N Hotel St; h8am-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat; W)

6Beach Bum CafeCAFE

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Right in downtown’s high-rise financial district, this connoisseur’s coffee bar serves 100% organic, grown-in-Hawaii beans, roasted in small batches and hand-brewed just one ideal cup at a time. Chat up the baristas while you sip the rich flavors of the Big Island, Maui, Kauaʻi and even Molokaʻi. Also has an outpost at the First Hawaiian Center down the road.

(%808-521-6699; www.beachbumcafe.com; 1088 Bishop St; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Fri; W)

6Honolulu Coffee CompanyCOFFEE SHOP

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Overlooking Tamarind Sq with city skyline views, here you can take a break from tramping around Honolulu’s historical sites for a java jolt brewed from handpicked, hand-roasted 100% Kona estate-grown beans. Also at Ala Moana Center and in Waikiki.

(%808-521-4400; www.honolulucoffee.com; 1001 Bishop St; h6am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat; W)

6Tea at 1024TEAHOUSE

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Tea at 1024 takes you back in time to another era. Cutesy sandwiches, scones and cakes accompany your choice of tea as you relax and watch the Chinatown crowd rush by the window. They even have bonnets for you to don to add to the ambience. Set menus run from $20.95 per person and reservations are recommended.

(%808-521-9596; www.teaat1024.net; 1024 Nuʻuanu Ave; h11am-2pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

6Hank's CafeBAR

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You can’t get more low-key than this neighborhood dive bar on the edge of Chinatown. Owner Hank is a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to the barfly business: the walls are decorated with Polynesian-themed art, live music rolls in some nights and regulars practically call it home.

(%808-526-1410; http://hankscafehawaii.com; 1038 Nuʻuanu Ave; h7am-2am)

6Bar 35BAR

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Filled with aloha, this indoor-outdoor watering hole has a dizzying 100 domestic and international bottled beers to choose from, plus addictive chef-made gourmet fusion pizzas to go with all the brews. There’s live music or DJs some weekend nights.

(%808-537-3535; http://bar35hawaii.com; 35 N Hotel St; h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat)

6Fix Sports Lounge & NightclubNIGHTCLUB

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These guys have got the bases covered with a cavernous sports lounge full of large flatscreens offering the standard sports-lounge fare…morphing into a raging nightclub later on with DJs and dancing. One of the largest venues on O‘ahu.

(%808-728-4416; http://thefixsportsloungeandnightclub.com; 80 S Pauʻahi St; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat)

Tropical drinks from a Honolulu bar

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Local Life

Fresh Cafe Downtown

Bright and breezy Fresh Cafe Downtown ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-953-7374; www.freshcafehi.com; 1121 Nuʻuanu Ave; h7am-11pm Mon-Sat) has everything from breakfast to lunch to dinner and bar with options to sit inside or out. Fresh hits the spot with its 'garden-fresh and local' attitude to food. Dedicated to promoting local music, culture and art, too!

Understand

History of Honolulu

First Discoveries

The first wave of Polynesians, most likely from the Marquesas Islands, voyaged by canoe to the Hawaiian Islands 300–600AD. A second wave, this time from Tahiti, arrived 1000–1300AD. Captain Cook, the first foreigner known to reach the islands, visited Hawaii twice in 1778–79 and was killed on the Big Island. Oʻahu’s fall to Kamehameha the Great in 1795 signaled the beginning of a united Hawaiian kingdom. Kamehameha moved his royal court to Honolulu (‘Sheltered Bay’).

Foreigners & Sugar

In 1793, the English frigate Butterworth became the first foreign ship to sail into what is now Honolulu Harbor. In the 1820s, Honolulu’s first bars and brothels opened to international whaling crews just as prudish Protestant missionaries began arriving from New England. Honolulu replaced Lahaina as the capital of the kingdom of Hawaiʻi in 1845.

In the 1830s, sugar became king of Oʻahu’s industry. Plantation workers from Asia and Europe were brought to fill the island’s labor shortage. The 19th century ended with the Hawaiian monarchy violently overthrown at Honolulu’s ʻIolani Palace, creating a short-lived independent republic dominated by sugar barons and ultimately annexed by the USA.

War in the Pacific

After the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, Oʻahu was placed under martial law during WWII. As many civil rights were suspended, a detention center for Japanese Americans and resident aliens was established on Honolulu’s Sand Island. The US federal government didn’t apologize for these injustices until 1988.

Post-WWII

After WWII, jet-age travel and baby-boom prosperity provided Oʻahu with a thriving tourism business to replace its declining shipping industry. In the 1970s, the Hawaiian renaissance flowered, especially on the University of Hawaiʻi at Manoa campus and after the successful wayfaring voyage of the Hokuleʻa canoe to Tahiti.

By the 1980s, rampant tourist development had overbuilt Waikiki and turned some of Oʻahu’s agricultural land into water-thirsty golf courses and sprawling resorts. The island’s last sugar mills closed in the 1990s, leaving Oʻahu more heavily dependent on tourism than ever. Debates about economic diversification and the continuing US military presence continue today.

Entertainment

3Dragon UpstairsLIVE MUSIC

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Right above Hank’s Cafe in Chinatown, this claustrophobic hideaway with a sedate older vibe and lots of funky artwork and mirrors hosts a rotating lineup of jazz cats, blues strummers and folk singers, usually on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Occasional $5 cover charge.

(%808-526-1411; http://thedragonupstairs.com; 2nd fl, 1038 Nuʻuanu Ave; husually 7pm-2am)

6Next DoorNIGHTCLUB, LOUNGE

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Situated on a skid-row block of N Hotel St where dive bars are still the order of the day, this svelte cocktail lounge is a brick-walled retreat with vivid red couches and flickering candles. DJs spin house, hip hop, funk, mash-ups and retro sounds, while on other nights loud, live local bands play just about anything.

(%808-852-2243; www.facebook.com/nextdoorhi; 43 N Hotel St; h7pm-2am Wed-Sat)

3ARTS at Marks GaragePERFORMING ARTS

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On the cutting edge of the Chinatown arts scene, this community gallery and performance space puts on a variety of live shows, from stand-up comedy, burlesque cabaret nights and conversations with island artists to live jazz and Hawaiian music.

(%808-521-2903; www.artsatmarks.com; 1159 Nuʻuanu Ave; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat)

3Kumu Kahua TheatrePERFORMING ARTS

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In the restored Kamehameha V Post Office building, this little 100-seat treasure is dedicated to premiering works by Hawaii’s playwrights, with themes focusing on contemporary multicultural island life, often richly peppered with Hawaiian pidgin.

(%808-536-4441; www.kumukahua.org; 46 Merchant St)

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Local Life

First Fridays in Chinatown

Chinatown’s somewhat seedy Nuʻuanu Ave and Hotel St have become surprisingly cool places for a dose of urban art and culture, socializing and bar-hopping from 5pm on the first Friday of each month. Check your calendar and head to First Friday Honolulu (www.firstfridayhawaii.com) if your dates match.

Shopping

7Cindy's Lei ShoppeARTS, CRAFTS

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At this inviting little shop, a Chinatown landmark, you can watch aunties craft flower lei made of orchids, plumeria, twining maile, lantern ʻilima (flowering ground-cover) and ginger. Several other lei shops clustered nearby will also pack lei for you to carry back home on the plane.

(%808-536-6538; www.cindysleishoppe.com; 1034 Maunakea St; husually 6am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Artisan weaving haku lei at Cindy's Lei Shoppe

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

7Kamaka HawaiiMUSIC

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Skip right by those tacky souvenir shops selling cheap plastic and wooden ukuleles. Kamaka specializes in handcrafted ukuleles made on Oʻahu since 1916, with prices starting at around $500. Its signature is an oval-shaped ‘pineapple’ ukulele, which has a more mellow sound. Call ahead for free 30-minute factory tours, usually starting at 10:30am Tuesday through Friday.

(%808-531-3165; www.kamakahawaii.com; 550 South St; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

7Madre ChocolateFOOD

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The Honolulu outpost of this Kailua chocolate company is serving up a storm in Chinatown with free samplings of such innovative flavors as Lili‘koi Passionfruit and Coconut Milk & Caramelized Ginger Chocolate. A must for chocolate-lovers but it don't come cheap! If you're really keen, it even offers a five-day 'Experience Hawaiian Cacao & Chocolate Bootcamp' on Oʻahu.

(%808-377-6440; http://madrechocolate.com; 8 N Pauʻahi St; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Mon)

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Local Life

Tin Can Mailman

Fans of vintage tiki wares and 20th-century Hawaiiana books, will fall in love with Tin Can Mailman ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://tincanmailman.net; 1026 Nuʻuanu Ave; h11am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 4pm Sat), a little Chinatown antiques shop. Treasures include jewelry and ukuleles, silk aloha shirts, tropical-wood furnishings, vinyl records, rare prints and tourist brochures from the post-WWII tourism boom. No photos allowed, sorry.

Ala Moana & Around

Ala Moana means ‘Path to the Sea’ and its namesake road, Ala Moana Blvd, connects the coast between Waikiki and Honolulu. Although most people think of Ala Moana only for its shopping mall, Ala Moana Regional Park – Oʻahu’s biggest beach park – makes a relaxing alternative to crowded Waikiki, and a bevy of locally famous restaurants hide out in the area.

SEIDEN ALLAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start out with a coffee at Fresh Cafe, but make sure to give yourself plenty of time at the enthralling Honolulu Museum of Art. Take a break when needed at the excellent Honolulu Museum of Art Cafe.

R Your afternoon will include some shopping and sun. Browse the shops at Ward Warehouse and Ward Center – don't miss Native Books/Nā Mea Hawaii. Wander across to Ala Moana Beach Park for some time on the beach. It won't be long before the Ala Moana Center beckons.

N Grab dinner and drinks up at Mai Tai Bar on the Hoʻokipa Tce of the shopping center. Your day wouldn't be complete without a sunset stroll around Magic Island back out at the beach park.

1  Top Sights

Honolulu Museum of Art

l  Local Life

Culture and sun at Ala Moana

x  Best of Honolulu

Beaches

Ala Moana Beach Park

Eating

Kakaʻako Kitchen

Alan Wong's

Drinking & Entertainment

Republik

Jazz Minds Art & Café

Museums

Honolulu Museum of Art

Hawaiiana Shopping

Native Books/Nā Mea Hawaii

Manuhealiʻi

Fabric Mart

Getting There

g Bus The Ala Moana Mall is Oʻahu’s central transfer point for TheBus. Buses head out in all directions from here.

u Car Ala Moana Blvd runs from Downtown through Ala Moana to Waikiki. There is free parking at the Ala Moana Center, Ward Warehouse and Ward Center. Also at Ala Moana Beach Park.

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Top Sights

Honolulu Museum of Art

This exceptional fine-arts museum may be the biggest surprise of your trip to Oʻahu. Dating to 1927, it has a classical facade that’s invitingly open and airy, with galleries branching off a series of garden and water-fountain courtyards. Stunningly beautiful exhibits reflect the various cultures that make up contemporary Hawaii, include one of the country’s finest Asian art collections. The Arts of Hawaii exhibition is especially captivating. You'll also find originals by van Gogh, Gauguin, Cezanne, Monet, Matisse and Whistler.

Honolulu Museum of Art at Spalding House, featuring artwork by Deborah Butterfield

SHUZO UEMOTO / HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART ©

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%808-532-8700; www.honolulumuseum.org; 900 S Beretania St; adult/child $10/free, 1st Wed & 3rd Sun each month free; h10am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; pc

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A In partnership with the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, the museum serves as the orientation center for tours of Shangri La. Two and a half hour tours, beginning and ending at the Museum, can be booked online. Shangri La has no public access and the only way to see it is on a tour organized through the Honolulu Museum of Art.

A Parking at the Honolulu Museum of Art School, diagonally opposite the museum at 1111 Victoria St (enter off Beretania or Young Sts), costs $5 for up to 5 hours.

5 Take a Break

In a delightful open-air courtyard setting, the Honolulu Museum of Art Cafe focuses on serving market-fresh salads using O‘ahu-grown ingredients from Tuesday to Saturday.

Don't Miss

Museum Events

Check the museum website for upcoming special events, including: gallery tours and art lectures; film screenings and music concerts at the Doris Duke Theatre; ARTafterDARK (www.artafterdark.org) parties with food, drinks and live entertainment on the last Friday of some months; and family-friendly arts and cultural programs on the third Sunday of every month.

The Museum Shop

As you would expect, the Museum shop offers fine works by Hawaii artisans and designers that you won't find outside of the islands. This is the place to find that unique souvenir of quality that you may have been looking for. Also available are publications, prints, posters and stationery that reflect the international scope of the museum's collections.

Honolulu Museum of Art at Spalding House

Admission tickets are also valid for same-day visits to the Honolulu Museum of Art at Spalding House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-526-1322; www.honoluluacademy.org; 2411 Makiki Heights Dr; adult/child 4-17yr $10/free, 1st Wed of the month free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; p), a sprawling estate mansion high in Makiki Heights that features stunning views, sculpture and flower gardens, and its most prized piece, an environmental installation by David Hockney based on his sets for Ravel's opera L'Enfant et les sortilèges.

Honolulu Museum of Art at First Hawaiian Center

First Hawaiian Bank’s high-rise headquarters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-526-0232; www.honoluluacademy.org; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri) in Downtown also houses a gallery of the Honolulu Museum of Art. It features fascinating mixed-media exhibits of modern and contemporary works by artists from around Hawaii. Even the building itself features a four-story-high art-glass wall incorporating 185 prisms.

Understand

Mr Obama's Neighborhood

During the 2008 race to elect the 44th president of the United States, Republican vice-presidential candidate Sarah Palin kept asking the country, ‘Who is Barack Obama?’ It was Obama’s wife, Michelle, who had an answer ready: ‘You can’t really understand Barack until you understand Hawaii.’

Obama, who grew up in Honolulu’s Makiki Heights neighborhood, inland and above the Ala Moana area, has written that ‘Hawaii’s spirit of tolerance…became an integral part of my world view, and a basis for the values I hold most dear.’ The local media and many kamaʻaina (those who were born and grew up in Hawaii) agree that Hawaii’s multiethnic social fabric helped shape the leader who created a rainbow coalition during the 2008 election.

Obama has also said Hawaii is a place for him to rest and recharge. He has written: ‘When I’m heading out to a hard day of meetings and negotiations, I let my mind wander back to Sandy Beach, or Manoa Falls… It helps me, somehow, knowing that such wonderful places exist and I’ll always be able to return to them.’

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Local Life

Culture & Sun in Ala Moana

There's a lot more to the Ala Moana area than just the Ala Moana Center and the locals certainly know it. The Ward Center and Ward Warehouse offer excellent eating and browsing options, while Ala Moana Beach Park and Magic Island are stunners that many staying in Waikiki don't even realize are there!

1 Fresh Cafe

Start your morning at Fresh Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-688-8055; http://freshcafehi.com; 831 Queen St; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; W), an alternative coffeehouse in an industrial warehouse area. No, you're not lost. Artists, bohemians and hipster hangers-on sip Vietnamese coffee, pikake iced tea, and Thai or haupia-flavored lattes here. When you're ready to walk, wander out to Ward Ave.

2 Native Books/Nā Mea Hawaii

In the Ward Warehouse complex, head in to Native Books/Nā Mea Hawaii ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-596-8885; www.nativebookshawaii.com; Ward Warehouse, 1050 Ala Moana Blvd; h10am-8:30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun). This place is a cultural gathering spot. Check online for special events before you go, including author readings, live local music and cultural classes.

3 Nohea Gallery

Head further east in the complex to find Nohea Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.noheagallery.com; Ward Warehouse, 1050 Ala Moana Blvd; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun). This high-end gallery sells handcrafted jewelry, glassware, pottery and woodwork, all of it made in Hawaii. Local artisans occasionally give demonstrations of their crafts on the sidewalk outside.

4 Kakaʻako Kitchen

Carry on along Auahi St to the Ward Center complex to find Kakaʻako Kitchen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-596-7488; http://kakaakokitchen.com; Ward Center, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd; meals $7-15; h10am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun; pc). As ʻono (delicious) as always, this popular counter joint dishes up healthy minded plate lunches with brown rice and organic greens. For a local deli twist, get the tempura mahimahi (white-fleshed fish) sandwich on a homemade taro bun.

5 Ala Moana Beach Park

It's time for some sun. Head out to Ala Moana Beach Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1201 Ala Moana Blvd; pc), which boasts a broad, golden-sand beach – hugely popular, yet big enough that it never feels too crowded. This is where Honolulu residents come to run after work, play beach volleyball and enjoy weekend picnics. The park has full facilities, including lighted tennis courts.

6 Magic Island

The peninsula jutting from the southeast side of Ala Moana Beach Park park is Magic Island. Year-round, you can take an idyllic sunset walk around the peninsula’s perimeter, within an anchor’s toss of sailboats pulling in and out of neighboring Ala Wai Yacht Harbor. A great spot from which to watch the fireworks on Friday nights.

7 Ala Moana Shopping Center

Head over and into the Ala Moana Shopping Center for some respite from the sun. This open-air shopping mall and its nearly 300 department stores and mostly chain stores could compete on an international runway with some of Asia’s famous mega-malls. Plenty to look at and a great spot for people-watching.

8 Mai Tai Bar

It must be time for a cold drink! Head upstairs in the Ala Moana Center to Mai Tai Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-947-2900; www.maitaibar.com; Hoʻokipa Tce, 3rd fl, Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; h11am-1am; W). During sunset and late-night happy hours, this enormous tropical bar is packed with a see-and-flirt crowd. Island-style live music plays nightly.

1 Top Sights

Honolulu Museum of Art  C1

1 Sights

1Water Giver Statue  G5

5 Eating

2Yataimura  E4

3Makai Market  E4

4Kua ʻAina  B4

5Side Street Inn  D3

6Honolulu Museum of Art Cafe  C1

7Sorabol  E3

8Shokudo  F4

9Chef Mavro  H3

10Nanzan Girogiro  C3

3 Entertainment

11Republik  D4

12Jazz Minds Art & Café  F4

13Doris Duke Theatre  C1

14Ala Moana Centertainment  E4

15HawaiiSlam  A2

7 Shopping

16Ward Warehouse  A3

17Island Slipper  A3

18Manuhealiʻi  G3

Sights

1Water Giver StatueSTATUE

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Fronting the Honolulu Convention Center, this magnificent statue symbolically acknowledges the Hawaiian people for their generosity and expressions of goodwill to newcomers. It's sister-statue is the Storyteller Statue in Waikiki.

(1801 Kalakaua Ave, Hawaii Convention Center)

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Local Life

Honolulu Farmers Market

At the Honolulu Farmer Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://hfbf.org/markets; Neal S Blaisdell Center, 777 Ward Ave; h4-7pm Wed; vc) pick up anything from aquacultural seafood and Oʻahu honey to fresh fruit and tropical flowers, all trucked into the city by Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation members. Graze food stalls set up by island chefs, food artisans and Kona coffee roasters, too.

Eating

5YataimuraJAPANESE $

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Head to the upper level of the Ala Moana Center's Japanese department store Shirokiya to unlock a beer garden and boisterous food-stall marketplace that's a gold mine of takeout meals, from bentō boxes to hot takoyaki (fried minced-octopus balls).

(www.shirokiya.com; 2nd fl, Shirokiya, Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; items $2-12; h10am-10pm)

5Makai MarketFAST FOOD $

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Let your preconceptions about mall food courts fly out the window at these Asian-fusion-flavored indoor food stalls. Dig into Yummy Korean BBQ, Donburi Don-Don for Japanese rice bowls or the island-flavored Lahaina Chicken Company and Ala Moana Poi Bowl.

(1st fl, Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; mains $6-12; h8am-8pm; c)

5Kua ʻAinaFAST FOOD $

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Shopping-mall outpost of Haleʻiwa’s gourmet burger joint serves crispy matchstick fries, pineapple and avocado beef burgers, and grilled ahi and veggie sandwiches for hungry crowds. Also in Kapolei.

(%808-591-9133; www.kua-aina.com; Ward Center, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd; burgers & sandwiches $5-10; h10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; pc)

5Side Street InnHAWAIIAN $$

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This late-night mecca is where you’ll find Honolulu’s top chefs hanging out after their own kitchens close, along with partyin’ locals who come for hearty portions of kalbi and pan-fried pork chops. Make reservations and bring friends, or join the construction-worker crews ordering plate lunches at the takeout counter. Warning: big portions!

(%808-591-0253; http://sidestreetinn.com; 1225 Hopaka St; mains $7-20; h2pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

5Honolulu Museum of Art CafeMODERN AMERICAN $$

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Market-fresh salads and sandwiches made with Oʻahu-grown ingredients, a decent selection of wines by the glass and tropically infused desserts make this an indulgent way to support the arts. Romantic tables facing the sculpture courtyard fountain and underneath a monkeypod tree are equally well suited to dates or power-broker lunches. Reservations recommended.

(%808-532-8734; www.honoluluacademy.org; Honolulu Museum of Art, 900 S Beretania St; mains $11-22; h11:30am-1:30pm Tue-Sat)

5SorabolKOREAN $$$

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Sorabol feeds lunching Korean ladies by day and bleary-eyed clubbers before dawn. Detractors often sniff that its reputation is undeserved, but the rest of the city has undying gratitude for this around-the-clock joint, often visited after midnight in a drunken stupor. Marinated kalbi and steamed butterfish are specialties. Watch out for a late-night service charge (20%).

(%808-947-3113; www.sorabolhawaii.com; 805 Keʻeaumoku St; set meals $11-38; h24hr)

5ShokudoJAPANESE $$

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Knock back lychee sake-tinis at this sleek, modern Japanese restaurant (shokudō means ‘dining room’) that’s always filled to the rafters. A mixed-plate traditional Japanese and island-fusion menu depicts dozens of dishes, from mochi (rice cake) cheese gratin to lobster dynamite rolls, more traditional noodles and sushi, and silky house-made tofu. Reservations recommended.

(%808-941-3701; www.shokudojapanese.com; 1585 Kapiʻolani Blvd; shared plates $5-25; h11:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

5Chef MavroFUSION $$$

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At Honolulu’s most avant-garde restaurant, maverick chef George Mavrothalassitis creates conceptual dishes, all paired with Old and New World wines. Unfortunately the cutting-edge experimental cuisine, like the half-empty atmosphere, sometimes falls flat, although some will swear they’ve had the meal of a lifetime. Reservations essential.

(%808-944-4714; www.chefmavro.com; 1969 S King St; multicourse tasting menus from $95; h6-9pm Wed-Sun)

5Nanzan GirogiroJAPANESE $$$

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Traditional kaiseki ryōri (seasonal small-course) cuisine infused with Hawaii-grown fruits and vegetables, fresh seafood and, frankly, magic. Inside an art gallery, bar seats ring the open kitchen. Ceramic turtles hide savory custard in their shells and pottery bowls harbor tea-soaked rice topped with delicately poached fish. Reservations essential.

(%808-521-0141; www.guiloguilo.com; 560 Pensacola St; chef's tasting menu $50-60; h6pm-midnight Thu-Mon)

Japanese plate lunch, Honolulu

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Top Tip

Eat at Alan Wong's

One of Oʻahu’s big-gun chefs, Alan Wong offers his creative interpretations of Hawaii Regional Cuisine with emphasis on fresh seafood and local produce at his eponymous restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-949-2526; www.alanwongs.com; 1857 S King St; mains $35-60; h5-10pm). Order the time-tested signature dishes such as ginger-crusted onaga (red snapper), Kona lobster seafood stew and twice-cooked kalbi (short ribs). Make reservations for in-demand tables weeks in advance.

Understand

Ala Moana Shopping Center

The Ala Moana Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.alamoanacenter.com; 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; c), known simply as Ala Moana, is the largest shopping mall in Hawaii, the largest open-air shopping center in the world, and consistently ranks among the top ten most successful malls in the United States. Annual sales volumes have topped US$1 billion annually since 1998 – Ala Moana is one of only a few US malls to have reached that figure.

Monster Mall

This monster mall, opened in 1959 on land that had formerly been a swamp, started out with 87 stores and 4000 parking spaces. Nowadays we're looking at nearly 300 stores, 10,000 parking spots and a mind-boggling 42 million shopping visitations each year! And to top it off, more expansion is going on. Sears has departed, the new Ewa Wing expansion is in full force, and as of 2015, expect to see a brand new Bloomingdales department store and another 1000 parking stalls.

What's there?

We're not going to list everything at Ala Moana or we'd fill this book, but suffice to say, every major brand is there along with a number of local stores and 80 dining options. Multi-level department stores are Macy's, Nordstroms and Neiman Marcus, with Bloomingdales coming online in 2015. Street Level 1 features the Makai Market Food Court with 30 eating options and TheBus transport center; Mall levels 2 and 3 have shopping, shopping and more shopping; and Upper Level 4, the Ho'okipa Terrace, features 10 bars and restaurants.

Transportation Hub

The Ala Moana Center is a major hub for Honolulu's bus network, known as TheBus. Head to the mauka (mountains) side of the center at street level.

A To/from Waikiki: TheBus 8, 19, 20, 23, 24 or 42

A To/from Honolulu International Airport: TheBus 19 or 20

A To/from the North Shore: TheBus 55

The Ala Moana Pink Line Shopping Trolley has its stop at street level on the makai (sea) side of the center.

The Future

The Ala Moana Center is planned to be the eastern terminus for HART, the Honolulu Rapid Transit elevated light rail system due to be up and running in 2018.

Entertainment

3RepublikLIVE MUSIC

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Honolulu's most intimate concert hall for touring and local acts – indie rockers, punk and metal bands, and more – has a graffiti-bomb vibe and backlit black walls that trippily light up. Buy tickets for shows in advance, to make sure you get in and also to save a few bucks.

(%808-941-7469; http://jointherepublik.com; 1349 Kapiʻolani Blvd; hlounge 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, concert schedules vary)

3Jazz Minds Art & CaféLIVE MUSIC

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Don’t let the nearby strip clubs turn you off this place. This tattered brick-walled lounge with an almost speakeasy ambience pulls in the top island talent – fusion jazz, funk, bebop, hip hop, surf rock and minimalist acts. However, you will need to be prepared for a stiff two-drink minimum.

(%808-945-0800; www.honolulujazzclub.com; 1661 Kapiʻolani Blvd; cover charge $10; h9pm-2am Mon-Sat)

3Doris Duke TheatreCINEMA

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Shows a mind-bending array of experimental, alternative, retro-classic and art-house films, especially ground-breaking documentaries, inside the Honolulu Museum of Art. For weekday matinees, validated parking costs $3 (evenings and weekends free).

(%808-532-8768; www.honolulumuseum.org; Honolulu Museum of Art, 900 S Beretania St; tickets $10)

3Ala Moana CentertainmentPERFORMING ARTS

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The mega shopping center’s courtyard area is the venue for all sorts of island entertainment, including music by Oʻahu musicians and the Royal Hawaiian Band, Japanese taiko drumming and Sunday-afternoon keiki (children’s) hula shows also take place.

(%808-955-9517; www.alamoanacenter.com; ground fl, Center Court, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd; c)

3HawaiiSlamPERFORMING ARTS

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One of the USA’s biggest poetry slams, here international wordsmiths, artists, musicians, MCs and DJs share the stage. For aspiring spoken-word stars, sign-up starts at 7:30pm.

(www.hawaiislam.com; Fresh Cafe, 831 Queen St; admission before/after 8:30pm $3/5; h8:30pm 1st Thu of each month)

Understand

Neal S Blaisdell Center

A cultural linchpin for Honolulu, the Neal S Blaisdell Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-768-5252; www.blaisdellcenter.com; 777 Ward Ave) comprises of an arena, concert hall and exhibition hall on Ward Ave. This modern performing-arts complex stages symphony and chamber-music concerts, opera performances and ballet recitals, prestigious hula competitions, Broadway shows and more. Occasionally big-name pop and rock touring acts play here instead of at Aloha Stadium.

The complex also hosts a weekly farmers market, basketball games, and expositions such as the Hawaii Fish & Dive expo. There is a lot going on, so check out the calendar online. The Blaisdell Center also administrates the Waikiki Shell outdoor concert venue in Waikiki's Kapi'olani Park.

Neal S Blaisdell served as Mayor of Honolulu from 1955 to 1969.

Shopping

7Ward WarehouseMALL

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Across the street from Ala Moana Beach, this mini-mall has many one-of-a-kind island shops and eateries. There's a threat that it will all be bowled over to make way for glitzy towers, but at the time of research, Ward Warehouse survives!

(www.wardcenters.com; 1050 Ala Moana Blvd; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

7Island SlipperSHOES

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Across Honolulu and Waikiki, scores of stores sell flip-flops (aka ‘rubbah slippah’), but nobody else carries such ultracomfy suede and leather styles – all made in Hawaii since 1946 – let alone such giant sizes (as one clerk told us, ‘We fit all the island people.’). Try on as many pairs as you like until your feet really feel the aloha.

(www.islandslipper.com; Ward Warehouse, 1050 Ala Moana Blvd; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

7ManuhealiʻiCLOTHING

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Look to this island-born shop for original and modern designs. Hawaiian musicians often sport Manuhealiʻi’s bold-print silk aloha shirts. Flowing synthetic print and knit dresses and wrap tops take inspiration from the traditional muumuu but are transformed into spritely contemporary looks. Also in Kailua.

(%808-942-9868; www.manuhealii.com; 930 Punahou St; h9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)

Ala Moana Shopping Center

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Local Life

Fabric Mart

Fabric Mart ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-947-4466; www.fmart.com; 1631 Kalakaua Ave; h9am-7pm) has masses of Hawaiian print materials that can be used for everything from cushion covers to dresses to aloha shirts. Buy them at best prices by the yard. This is where Hawaiian grandmothers and aunties buy their fabric.

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Local Life

Stroll Like a UH Student

Only a couple of miles northeast of Waikiki in the foothills of the Manoa Valley, the main campus of the statewide university system, known as UH, is breezy, tree-shaded, and crowded with students from the mainland and islands throughout the Pacific. The campus and surrounding area feel youthful, with a collection of cafes, eclectic restaurants and one-of-a-kind shops.

Getting There

g From Waikiki or downtown Honolulu, take bus 4; from Ala Moana, catch bus 6 or 18.

1 UH Campus Center

Start your stroll at the UH Campus Center. The UH Bookstore is here, as are banks, ATMs, coffee shops and a food court. There are crowds of students during the day, but it's almost deserted by evening. Free one-hour walking tours of campus depart here at 2pm Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

2 John Young Museum of Art

A short walk downhill from the Campus Center, the John Young Museum of Art ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-956-3634; www.outreach.hawaii.edu/jymuseum; Krauss Hall, 2500 Dole St; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sun) features 20th-century Hawaii painter Young’s collection of artifacts from the Pacific islands, Africa and Asia, mostly ceramics, pottery and sculpture. Although it’s not huge, it’s worth a quick visit.

3 East-West Center

Walk the tree-lined McCarthy Mall over to East-West Rd. The East-West Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-944-7111; www.eastwestcenter.org; 1601 East-West Rd) aims to promote mutual understanding among the peoples of Asia, the Pacific and the US. Changing exhibitions of art and culture are displayed in the EWC Gallery. Spy the Japanese teahouse garden and royal Thai pavilion outside.

4 UH Sports Grounds

Head down East-West Rd, cross Dole St and carry on to a staircase down to the UH sports grounds. Pass the tennis courts and softball stadium on your right, then pass behind the baseball stadium. When you hit Lower Campus Rd, turn right, then first left under the freeway and follow your nose out to King St.

5 Glazers Coffee

It's coffee time and they’re serious about their brews at Glazers Coffee ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-391-6548; www.glazerscoffee.com; 2700 S King St; h7am-11pm Mon-Thu, 7am-9pm Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun; W), a students hangout where you can kick back on comfy living-room sofas next to jazzy artwork and plentiful electrical outlets.

6 Kokua Market Natural Foods

Just over on the other side of King St, Kokua Market Natural Foods ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-941-1922; www.kokua.coop; 2643 S King St; h8am-9pm; v), Hawaii’s only natural food co-op, has an organic hot-and-cold salad bar and a vegetarian- and vegan-friendly deli for takeout meals. A great spot to browse and see what's on offer.

7 Tropics Tap House

Relive your college days at Tropics Tap House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-955-5088; www.tropicstaphouse.com; 1019 University Ave; h2pm-2am Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun), an open air sports bar on University that couldn't be called fancy, but gets the job done. Standard bar fare, but lots of beers to choose from and even beer cocktails. Lots of big screens for sports.

8 Bubbie's

It would be very hard to pass over Bubbies ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bubbiesicecream.com; Varsity Center, 1010 University Ave; items $1.50-6; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 11:30pm Sun; c), a student favorite to finish your stroll. We're talking bite-sized frozen mochi ice-cream treats. The mango mochi ice-cream rocks!

1

Top Sights

Bishop Museum

Like Hawaii’s version of the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, DC, the Bishop Museum showcases a remarkable array of cultural and natural history exhibits. It is often ranked as the finest Polynesian anthropological museum in the world. Founded in 1889 in honor of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, a descendant of the Kamehameha dynasty, it originally housed only Hawaiian and royal artifacts. These days it honors all of Polynesia.

Kahili Room, Bishop Museum

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Getting There

g From Waikiki, take the route 2 ('School St-Middle St') to the intersection of School St and Kapalama Ave.

u Take eastbound H-1 Fwy exit 20 and follow the signs.

GOOGLE MAP

%808-847-3511; www.bishopmuseum.org; 1525 Bernice St; adult/child $20/15; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; pc

y Top Tips

A Check the museum website for special events, including popular ‘Moonlight Mele’ summer concerts, family-friendly Hawaiian cultural festivities and after-dark planetarium shows (buy tickets online or make reservations by calling 808-848-4168).

A A gift shop off the main lobby sells books on the Pacific not easily found elsewhere, as well as some high-quality Hawaiian art, crafts and souvenirs.

5 Take a Break

It's only a few blocks walk, and well worth the effort, to get to Helena's Hawaiian Food, one of our top-ranked Honolulu eating options.

Don't Miss

The Hawaiian Hall

The Hawaiian Hall, residing inside a dignified three-story Victorian building, has displays covering the cultural history of Hawaii. Don’t miss the feathered cloak once worn by Kamehameha the Great, created entirely of the yellow feathers of the now-extinct mamo – some 80,000 birds were caught and plucked to create this single adornment.

The Polynesian Hall

The fascinating two-story exhibits inside the Polynesian Hall cover the myriad cultures of Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia. You could spend hours gazing at astounding and rare ritual artifacts, from elaborate dance masks and ceremonial costumes to carved canoes.

Science Adventure Center

Across the Great Lawn, the eye-popping, state-of-the-art multisensory Science Adventure Center lets kids walk through an erupting volcano, take a mini-submarine dive and play with three floors of interactive multimedia exhibits.

Planetarium

The Bishop Museum is home to Oʻahu’s only planetarium, which highlights traditional Polynesian methods of wayfaring (navigation), using wave patterns and the position of the stars to travel thousands of miles across the open ocean in traditional outrigger canoes. Shows usually start at 11:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm daily except Tuesday, and are included in the museum admission price.

1

Top Sights

Lyon Arboretum & Upper Manoa Valley

O‘ahu has lots more to offer that just sand, sun and sea. Take a look inland from Honolulu and Waikiki and you'll see the lush, windy Koʻolau range of mountains, often enshrouded in rain or mist, always covered in green tropical vegetation, and crisscrossed by a myriad of hiking trails. If you head up past the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa (UH) to the end of the road, you'll find a couple of attractions that will be a pleasant surprise.

Lyon Arboretum

LUCA TETTONI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Getting There

g From Ala Moana Center or UH, catch bus 5 to the last stop. Walk from there.

u Drive up University Ave past UH, then right on East Manoa Rd.

GOOGLE MAP

%info 808-988-0456, tour reservations 808-988-0461; www.hawaii.edu/lyonarboretum; 3860 Manoa Rd; donation $5, guided tour $10; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, tours usually 10am Mon-Sat; pc

y Top Tips

A Even if you are sitting in sunshine in Waikiki, look inland before you head up the Manoa Valley – it may be pouring with rain inland.

A If you've got a car, pick up a picnic lunch at Andy's Sandwiches on your way up the valley.

A It can get hot and mosquitoes can be a nuisance. Come prepared with insect repellant, a hat, sunscreen and liquids.

5 Take a Break

Andy's Sandwiches ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-988-6161; www.andyssandwiches.com; 2904 E Manoa Rd; items $4-12; h7am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri, to 2.30pm Sun) opposite the Manoa Shopping Center makes up great salads and sandwiches, while the Wai‘oli Tea Room ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-988-5800; www.thewaiolitearoom.com; 2950 Manoa Rd; h8am-2pm) has tasty lunch options.

Don't Miss

Lyon Arboretum

Beautifully unkempt walking trails wind through this highly regarded 200-acre arboretum managed by the University of Hawaiʻi. It was originally founded in 1918 by a group of sugar planters who grew native and exotic flora species to restore Honolulu’s watershed and test their economic benefit. This is not your typical overly manicured tropical flower garden, but a mature and largely wooded arboretum, where related species cluster in a semi-natural state.

Manoa Falls Trail

Honolulu’s most rewarding short hike, this 1.6-mile round-trip trail runs above a rocky streambed before ending at a pretty little cascade. Tall tree trunks line the often muddy and slippery path. Wild orchids and red ginger grow near the falls, which drop about 100ft into a small, shallow pool. It’s illegal to venture beyond the established viewing area.

Nu‘uanu Valley Lookout

For a longer, tougher hike, just before Manoa Falls, the marked ʻAihualama Trail heads up to the left, offering broad views of Manoa Valley. It eventually intersects with the Pauoa Flats Trail, which ascends to the spectacular Nuʻuanu Valley Lookout. High atop the Koʻolau Range, it’s possible to peer through a gap over to the Windward Coast. The total round-trip distance to the lookout from the Manoa Falls trailhead is approximately 5.5 miles.

1

Top Sights

Pearl Harbor

The WWII-era rallying cry ʻRemember Pearl Harbor!’, once mobilized an entire nation, dramatically resonates on Oʻahu. It was here that the surprise Japanese attack on December 7, 1941 – 'a date which will live in infamy,’ President Franklin D Roosevelt later said – hurtled the US into war in the Pacific. Every year about 1.6 million tourists visit Pearl Harbor’s unique collection of war memorials and museums, all clustered around a quiet bay where oysters were once farmed.

Aerial view of Pearl Harbor

FRENCH PETER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Getting There

g From Waikiki take bus 42 to the Arizona Memorial stop (1 hour).

u From Honolulu or Waikiki, take H-1 west to exit 15A (Arizona Memorial/Stadium), then follow the signs.

USS Oklahoma Memorial, Ford Island

PETE RYAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

GOOGLE MAP

www.nps.gov/valr/; admission free, Passport to Pearl Harbour 7-days adult/child $65/35

y Top Tips

A Strict security measures are in place at Pearl Harbor. You are not allowed to bring in any items that allow concealment (eg purses, camera bags, fanny packs, backpacks, diaper bags). Personal-sized cameras and camcorders are allowed.

A Don’t lock valuables in your car. Instead use the storage facility outside the main park gate.

A Book tickets online and early.

5 Take a Break

All four sights have concession stands or snack shops. The cafe at the Pacific Aviation Museum is the biggest, with the best selection; the hot dogs at Bowfin Park are the cheapest.

Don't Miss

WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument

One of the USA’s most significant WWII sites, this National Park Service monument narrates the history of the Pearl Harbor attack and commemorates fallen service members. The main entrance also leads to Pearl Harbor’s other parks and museums.

The monument grounds include two museums, the Road to War and the Attack & Aftermath, where multimedia and interactive displays bring the facts to life through historic photos, films, illustrated graphics and taped oral histories. A shore-side walk passes signs illustrating how the attack unfolded in the now-peaceful harbor.

USS Arizona Memorial

This somber monument commemorates the Pearl Harbor attack and its fallen service members with an offshore shrine reachable by boat. The USS Arizona Memorial was built over the midsection of the sunken USS Arizona, with deliberate geometry to represent initial defeat, ultimate victory and eternal serenity. In the furthest of three chambers inside the shrine, the names of crewmen killed in the attack are engraved onto a marble wall. In its rush to recover from the attack and prepare for war, the US Navy exercised its option to leave the servicemen inside the sunken ship; they remain entombed in its hull, buried at sea. Visitors are asked to maintain respectful silence at all times.

USS Arizona Memorial

RAUL TOUZON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Understand

The Pearl Harbor Attack

December 7, 1941, began at 7:55am with a wave of more than 350 Japanese planes swooping over the Koʻolau Range headed toward the unsuspecting US Pacific Fleet in Pearl Harbor. The battleship USS    Arizona took a direct hit and sank in less than nine minutes, trapping most of its crew beneath the surface. The average age of the 1177 enlisted men who died in the attack on the ship was just 19 years. It wasn’t until 15 minutes after the bombing started that American anti-aircraft guns began to shoot back at the Japanese warplanes. Twenty other US military ships were sunk or seriously damaged and 347 airplanes were destroyed during the two-hour attack.

Battleship Missouri Memorial

The last battleship built at the end of WWII, the USS Missouri provides a unique historical 'bookend' to the US campaign in the Pacific during WWII. Nicknamed the 'Mighty Mo' this decommissioned battleship saw action during the decisive WWII battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa.

The USS Missouri is now docked on Ford Island, just a few hundred yards from the sunken remains of the USS Arizona. During a self-guided audio tour, you can poke about the officers' quarters, browse exhibits on the ship's history and stride across the deck where General MacArthur accepted the Japanese surrender on September 2, 1945.

USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park

This park harbors the moored WWII-era submarine USS Bowfin and a museum that traces the development of submarines from their origins to the nuclear age, including wartime patrol footage. Undoubtedly, the highlight is clambering aboard a historic submarine. Launched on December 7, 1942, one year after the Pearl Harbor attack, the USS Bowfin sank 44 enemy ships in the Pacific by the end of WWII.

Pacific Aviation Museum

This military aircraft museum covers WWII through the US conflicts in Korea and Vietnam. The first aircraft hangar has been outfitted with exhibits on the Pearl Harbor attack, the Doolittle Raid on mainland Japan in 1942 and the pivotal Battle of Midway, when the tides of WWII in the Pacific turned in favor of the Allies.

Waikiki

Waikiki – the name alone will have you thinking of boundless horizons, Pacific sunsets and hula dancers gently swaying to the beat of island rhythms. Once the playground of Hawaiian royalty, this remains Oʻahu’s quintessential beach. And Waikiki has reinvented itself, moving beyond plastic mass tourism, with stylish resort hotels, fashion-forward boutiques, and sophisticated restaurants and cocktail lounges.

JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start your day admiring the King David Kalakaua Statue on Kalakaua Ave, then have breakfast at Eggs 'n' Things. Head to the Hawaiʻi Army Museum for a completely different look at Waikiki. You're out onto Fort DeRussy Beach from there.

R Wander along the beachfront, then head through the Sheraton Waikiki to the historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel. A bit further down the street, head into the Moana Surfrider Hotel then back out to the beach. Check out the Wizard Stones of Kapaemahu, the Duke Kahanamoku Statue and if time is on your side, stroll down through Kapiʻolani Beach Park to Waikiki Aquarium.

N It must be drinks time by now! Head back to Kuhio Beach for a sunset cruise on the Na Hoku II, complete with open bar. For dinner, grab a cab to Uncle Bo's on Kapahulu Ave, and if you can squeeze any more in, head up to Leonard's for malasadas for dessert.

Aerial view of Waikiki Beach, with Diamond Head in the background

CHAD EHLERS/GETTY IMAGES ©

1  Top Sights

Kuhio Beach

l  Local Life

A Wander through Waikiki

x  Best of Honolulu

Eating

Rainbow Drive-in

Uncle Bo's Pupu Bar & Grill

Leonard's

Drinking & Entertainment

RumFire

House Without a Key

Mai Tai Bar

ʻAha ʻAina

Hawaiiana Shopping

Bailey's Antiques & Aloha Shirts

Na Lima Mili Hulu Noʻeau

Ukulele PuaPua

For Kids

Waikiki Aquarium

Honolulu Zoo

Getting There

g Bus Most public bus stops are inland on Kuhio Ave. Buses head all over – to the Ala Moana transit point, to the University and east to Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay.

u Car To get to Waikiki from the airport or downtown, take either The H-1 (Lunalilo Fwy), or Hwy 92 (Nimitz Hwy/Ala Moana Blvd). Parking is expensive.

1

Top Sights

Kuhio Beach

Let's face it, chances are that this is what you're here for – a bit of excitement and fun in the sun! If you’re the kind of person who wants it all, Kuhio Beach offers everything from protected swimming to outrigger-canoe or catamaran rides to your first time on a surfboard, and even a free sunset-hula and Hawaiian-music show. This is where it's at, and it's all likely to be within a short stagger of your hotel room.

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Rental watercraft, Kuhio Beach

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

y Top Tips

A You’ll find restrooms, outdoor showers, a snack bar, surfboard lockers and beach-gear-rental stands at Waikiki Beach Center, near the friendly police substation.

A Those not confident in the water should head for Kapahulu Groin, at the Diamond Head end of Kuhio Beach. A low stone breakwater, called the Wall, runs out from Kapahulu Groin, parallel to the beach. It was built to control sand erosion and, in the process, two nearly enclosed swimming pools were formed.

A Ubiquitous ABC stores on Kalakaua Ave sell everything you could need to enhance your day – drinks and snacks, sunhats, sunscreen, snorkel sets, T-shirts and, of course, dashboard hula dolls.

5 Take a Break

Head across Kalakaua Ave to LuLu's Surf Club for liquid refreshments at Happy Hour (3pm to 5pm).

Don't Miss

Duke's Statue

On the waterfront on Kalakaua Ave, this wonderful statue of Duke Kahanamoku is always draped in colorful lei. Duke was a real Hawaiian hero, winning numerous Olympic swimming medals and becoming known as 'the father of modern surfing.' He even had stints as Sheriff of Honolulu and as a Hollywood actor.

Torch Lighting & Hula Show

It all begins at the Duke Kahanamoku statue with the sounding of a conch shell and the lighting of torches after sunset. At the nearby hula mound, lay out your beach towel and enjoy the authentic Hawaiian music and dance show. It’s on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday evenings, free and full of aloha!

Kapahulu Groin

Kapahulu Groin is a walled storm drain with a walkway on top that juts out into the ocean and is one of Waikiki’s hottest bodyboarding spots. If the surf’s right, you can find a few dozen bodyboarders riding the waves. These experienced locals ride straight for the groin’s cement wall and then veer away at the last moment, thrilling the tourists watching them from the little pier above.

Prince Kuhio Statue

This statue celebrates the man who was prince of the reigning House of Kalakaua when the Kingdom of Hawaii was overthrown in 1893. When Hawaii was annexed as a territory of the United States, Kuhio was elected as Hawaii’s congressional delegate for 10 consecutive terms. The beach is named after him and the statue is often draped in lei.

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Local Life

Waikiki Community Center

Try your hand at mah-jongg, the ukulele, hula, tai chi or a variety of island arts and crafts. Instructors at the Waikiki Community Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-1802; www.waikikicommunitycenter.org; 310 Paʻoakalani Ave; most classes $5-15) are brimming with aloha. Although most students are locals, visitors are welcome, too. Pre-registration may be required.

Understand

Waikiki Beach's Many Faces

The 2-mile stretch of white sand that everyone calls Waikiki Beach runs from Hilton Hawaiian Village all the way to Kapiʻolani Beach Park. Along the way, the beach keeps changing names and personalities. In the early morning, quiet seaside paths belong to walkers and runners, and strolling toward Diamond Head at dawn can be a meditative experience. By mid-morning it looks like any resort beach – packed with watersports concessionaires and lots of tourist bodies. By noon it’s a challenge to walk along the packed beach without stepping on anyone.

Waikiki is good for swimming, bodyboarding, surfing, sailing and other water sports most of the year, and there are lifeguards, restrooms and outdoor showers scattered along the beachfront. Between May and September, summer swells make the water a little rough for swimming, but great for surfing. For snorkeling, head to Sans Souci Beach Park or Queen’s Surf Beach.

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Local Life

A Wander through Waikiki

Waikiki may be full of tourists, but don't forget that the locals live here, too. From the southern end of Kuhio Beach Park, Kalakaua Ave heads south through Kapiʻolani Park; Monsarrat Ave runs between the zoo and the park, past Waikiki School (lucky kids!) and up to Diamond Head; Kapahulu Ave heads east past Waikiki-Kapahulu Library up towards the university.

1 Surfer on a Wave Statue

Start your walk at Kapahulu Groin, the walkway heading out into the ocean at the southern end of Kuhio Beach. Across the road is the zoo entrance, Queen's Surf Beach is right there, as is the Surfer on a Wave statue that celebrates surfing as a major part of the culture of Waikiki.

2 Kaimana Beach

Wander south along the beachfront of Kapiʻolani Beach Park. Where did all the tourists go? This peaceful stretch, backed by banyan trees and grassy lawns is popular with local families, especially in weekends. At the Diamond Head edge of Waikiki you'll find Sans Souci Beach (known to locals as Kaimana Beach), a lovely spot for a swim and a break.

3 Kapiʻolani Park

Head over Kapahulu Ave and into Kapiʻolani Park, named after Queen Kapiʻolani, the wife of King David Kalakaua – his statue at the other end of Waikiki greets visitors to Waikiki. This massive park is a beloved outdoor venue for live music and local community gatherings, from farmers markets to arts-and-crafts fairs to festivals to rugby matches.

4 Diamond Head Cove Health Bar

Over on Monsarrat Ave, turn right and walk up past Waikiki School. In the small strip-mall beyond the school you'll find Diamond Head Cove Health Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.diamondheadcove.com; 3045 Monsarrat Ave, Ste 5; h10am-8pm Mon & Sat, 9am-11pm Tue-Thu, 9am-8pm Fri, 10am-11pm Sun), specializing in refreshing acai bowls, fruit smoothies, healthy wraps, fresh poke and sashimi.

5 Paki Community Park

Wander down leafy Paki Ave, past Paki Community Park, a locals hangout with surprisingly good games of pick-up basketball going on. There's a small community center, a children's playground, and if you look carefully, you may spot the giraffes over the road in Honolulu Zoo. Turn right when you reach Kapahulu Ave.

6 Ala Wai Canal

Down the road next to Waikiki-Kapahulu Public Library you'll find Ala Wai Golf Course ( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 808-296-2000; www.honolulu.gov/des/golf/alawai.html; 404 Kapahulu Ave; green fees $22-55) and Ala Wai Canal, created in 1922 to drain the rice paddies, marshes and swamps that would become present-day Waikiki. It's a popular spot with kayakers and outrigger-canoe teams.

7 Rainbow Drive-in

Must be time for a break and you can't get more local than Rainbow Drive-in ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-737-0177; www.rainbowdrivein.com; 3308 Kanaina Ave; meals $4-9; h7am-9pm; c). Started by an island-born US Army cook after WWII, this classic Hawaii drive-in wrapped in rainbow-colored neon is a throwback to another era. Factoid: President Barack Obama eats here.

8 Bailey's Antiques & Aloha Shirts

Without a doubt, Bailey's ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://alohashirts.com; 517 Kapahulu Ave; h10am-6pm) has the finest aloha-shirt collection on Oʻahu, possibly the world! Racks are crammed with thousands of aloha shirts with prices varying from five bucks to several thousand dollars. ‘Margaritaville’ musician Jimmy Buffett is Bailey’s biggest fan.

1 Top Sights

Kuhio Beach  E4

1 Sights

1Kahanamoku Beach  A2

2Fort DeRussy Beach  B2

3Gray's Beach  C3

4Kahaloa & Ulukou Beaches  D3

5Kapiʻolani Beach Park  F5

6Sans Souci Beach Park  F5

7Wizard Stones of Kapaemahu  E3

8King David Kalakaua Statue  C1

9Queen Kapiʻolani Statue  F5

10Waikiki Aquarium  F5

11Royal Hawaiian Hotel  D3

12Moana Surfrider Hotel  E3

13Honolulu Zoo  F5

14Hawaiʻi Army Museum  C2

15Storyteller Statue  C2

5 Eating

16Food Pantry  E3

17Marukame Udon  E2

18Ruffage Natural Foods  E3

19Me's BBQ  E3

20Musubi Cafe Iyasume  E3

21Veggie Star Natural Foods  E2

22Siam Square  D2

23Ramen Nakamura  C2

24Eggs 'n' Things  C2

25LuLu's Surf Club  F4

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar  F4

Veranda  E3

26Roy's Waikiki  C2

Azure  D3

27Morimoto Waikiki  A1

28Nobu  C3

6 Drinking

RumFire  D3

Addiction Nightclub & Lobby Bar  A1

Five-0 Bar & Lounge  D3

29Lewers Lounge  C3

Genius Lounge  D2

30Da Big Kahuna  E2

31Nashville Waikiki  E2

3 Entertainment

32House Without a Key  C3

Mai Tai Bar  D3

Beach Bar  E3

33Tapa Bar  B1

34Moana Terrace  F4

35Kani Ka Pila Grille  C2

36Royal Grove  D3

ʻAha ʻAina  D3

37Waikiki Starlight Luau  B1

7 Shopping

Royal Hawaiian Center  D3

38Reyn Spooner  D3

Ukulele PuaPua  E3

39Newt at the Royal  D3

40Genius Outfitters  D2

41Peggy's Picks  H2

42Island Paddler  H2

43Art on the Zoo Fence  F5

Sights

1Kahanamoku BeachBEACH

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Fronting the Hilton Hawaiian Village, Kahanamoku Beach is Waikiki’s westernmost beach. It takes its name from Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968), the legendary Waikiki beachboy whose family once owned the land where the resort now stands. Hawaii’s champion surfer and Olympic gold medal winner learned to swim right here. The beach offers calm swimming conditions and a gently sloping, if rocky, bottom. Public access is at the end of Paoa Pl, off Kalia Rd.

1Fort DeRussy BeachBEACH

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Seldom crowded, this often-overlooked beauty extends along the shore of a military reservation. Like all beaches in Hawaii, it’s free and open to the public. The water is usually calm and good for swimming, but it’s shallow at low tide. When conditions are right, windsurfers, bodyboarders and board surfers all play here. Usually open daily, beach-hut concessionaires rent bodyboards, kayaks and snorkel sets. A grassy lawn with palm trees offers some sparse shade, an alternative to frying on the sand.

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Fort DeRussy Beach

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Gray's BeachBEACH

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Nestled up against the Halekulani luxury resort, Gray’s Beach has suffered some of the Waikiki strip’s worst erosion. Because the seawall in front of the Halekulani hotel is so close to the waterline, the beach sand fronting the hotel is often totally submerged by the surf, but the offshore waters are shallow and calm, offering decent swimming conditions. Public access is along a paved walkway. It was named after Gray’s-by-the-Sea, a 1920s boarding house that stood here.

1Kahaloa & Ulukou BeachesBEACH

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The beach between the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Surfrider hotels is Waikiki’s busiest section of sand and surf, great for sunbathing, swimming and people-watching. Most of the beach has a shallow bottom with a gradual slope. The only drawback for swimmers is its popularity with beginning surfers, and the occasional catamaran landing hazard. Queens and Canoes, Waikiki’s best-known surf breaks, are just offshore. Paddle further offshore over a lagoon to Populars (aka ‘Pops’), a favorite of long-boarders.

1Kapiʻolani Beach ParkBEACH

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Where did all the tourists go? From Kapahulu Groin south to the Natatorium, this peaceful stretch of beach, backed by a green space of banyan trees and grassy lawns, offers a relaxing niche with none of the frenzy found on the beaches fronting the Waikiki hotel strip. Facilities include restrooms and outdoor showers. Kapiʻolani Beach is a popular weekend picnicking spot for local families, who unload the kids to splash in the ocean while adults fire up the BBQ.

1Sans Souci Beach ParkBEACH

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At the Diamond Head edge of Waikiki, Sans Souci is a prime sandy stretch of oceanfront that’s far from the frenzied tourist scene. It’s commonly called Kaimana Beach, as it’s next door to the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. Local residents often come here for their daily swims. A shallow reef close to shore makes for calm, protected waters and provides good snorkeling.

1Wizard Stones of KapaemahuSTATUE

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Near the police substation at Waikiki Beach Center, four ordinary-looking boulders are actually the legendary Wizard Stones of Kapaemahu, said to contain the mana (power) of four wizards who came to Oahu from Tahiti around 400 AD. According to ancient legend, the wizards helped the island residents by relieving their aches and pains and their fame became widespread. As tribute when the wizards left, the islanders placed the four boulders where the wizards had lived.

1King David Kalakaua StatueSTATUE

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Born in 1836, King Kalakaua ruled Hawaii from 1874 until his death in 1891. With his wife, Queen Kapiʻolani, Kalakaua traveled the world extensively. This statue, designed by Native Hawaiian sculptor Sean Browne, greets visitors coming into Waikiki and was donated by the Japanese-American Community of Hawaii to mark 100 years of Japanese immigration in 1985. Kalakaua was instrumental in the signing of a Japan-Hawaii Labor Convention that brought 200,000 Japanese immigrants to Hawaii between 1885 and 1924.

1Queen Kapiʻolani StatueSTATUE

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This bronze statue depicts Queen Kapiʻolani, the wife of King David Kalakaua. The Queen was a beloved philanthropist, known as the queen who loved children. Among other accomplishments, she founded a maternity home in 1890 for disadvantaged Hawaiians and today you'll hear her name often – the park, a hospital, a major boulevard and a community college are named for her.

1Waikiki AquariumAQUARIUM

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Located on Waikiki’s shoreline, this university-run aquarium features dozens of tanks that re-create diverse tropical Pacific reef habitats. Check the website or call ahead to make reservations for special family-friendly events and fun educational programs for kids such as Aquarium After Dark adventures. It’s about a 15-minute walk southeast of the main Waikiki beach strip.

(%808-923-9741; www.waikikiaquarium.org; 2777 Kalakaua Ave; adult/child $12/5; h9am-5pm, last entry 4:30pm; c)

1Royal Hawaiian HotelHISTORIC BUILDING

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With its Moorish-style turrets and archways, this gorgeously restored 1927 art-deco landmark, dubbed the ‘Pink Palace,’ is a throwback to the era when Rudolph Valentino was the romantic idol and travel to Hawaii was by Matson Navigation luxury liner. Its guest list read like a who’s-who of A-list celebrities, from royalty to Rockefellers, along with luminaries such as Charlie Chaplin and Babe Ruth. Today, historic tours explore the architecture and lore of this grande dame.

(%808-923-7311; www.royal-hawaiian.com; 2259 Kalakaua Ave; htours 2pm Tue & Thu)

1Moana Surfrider HotelHISTORIC BUILDING

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Christened the Moana Hotel when it opened in 1901, this beaux-arts plantation-style inn was once the haunt of Hollywood movie stars, aristocrats and business tycoons. The historic hotel embraces a seaside courtyard with a big banyan tree and a wraparound veranda, where island musicians and hula dancers perform in the evenings.

(%808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; 2365 Kalakaua Ave; htours 11am Mon, Wed & Fri)

1Honolulu ZooZOO

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Honolulu Zoo does a great job on limited finances of showcasing tropical animals from around the globe. There are 40-plus acres of tropical greenery, happy-looking animals and a petting zoo for kids. Hawaii has no endemic land mammals, but in the aviary near the entrance you can see some native birds, including the nene (Hawaiian goose) and ʻapapane, a bright-red Hawaiian honeycreeper. Make reservations for family-oriented twilight tours, dinner safaris, zoo campouts and stargazing nights.

(%808-971-7171; www.honoluluzoo.org; cnr Kapahulu & Kalakaua Aves; adult/child 4-12yr $14/6; h9am-4:30pm; pc)

Summer concert at Honolulu Zoo

PHOTO RESOURCE HAWAII / ALAMY ©

1Hawaiʻi Army MuseumMUSEUM

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At Fort DeRussy, this museum showcases an almost mind-numbing array of military paraphernalia as it relates to Hawaii’s history, starting with shark-tooth clubs that Kamehameha the Great used to win control of the island more than two centuries ago. Fascinating old photographs and stories help bring an understanding of the influence of the US military presence in Hawaii.

(www.hiarmymuseumsoc.org; 2161 Kalia Rd; donations welcome, audiotour $5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, last entry 4:45pm; p)

1Storyteller StatueSTATUE

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This bronze statue just off Kalakaua Ave represents 'The Storytellers,' the keepers of Hawaiian culture. For centuries, women have been at the top of Hawaiian oral traditions, and the storytellers preserve the identity of their people and land by reciting poems, songs, chants and genealogies. The Storyteller's brother-statue is the Water Giver statue at the Hawaiian Convention Center.

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Top Tip

Hit the Courts

If you’ve brought your tennis rackets, the Diamond Head Tennis Center, at the Diamond Head end of Kapiʻolani Park, has 10 courts. For night play, go to the Kapiʻolani Park Tennis Courts, opposite the aquarium; all four courts are lit. Ala Moana Beach Park is also home to 10 lit tennis courts. All of these public courts are free and first-come, first-served.

y

Top Tip

Need Snorkel Gear?

A top spot to get your rental gear is Snorkel Bob's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-7944; www.snorkelbob.com; 702 Kapahulu Ave; h8am-5pm). Rates vary depending on the quality of the snorkeling gear and accessories packages, but excellent weekly discounts are available and online reservations taken. You can even rent gear on Oʻahu, then return it on another island.

y

Top Tip

Workout in Waikiki

For an indoor workout in Waikiki, 24-Hour Fitness ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-9090; www.24hourfitness.com; 2490 Kalakaua Ave; daily/weekly pass $25/75; h24hr) is a modern gym with cardio and weight machines and group classes.

y

Top Tip

Sail Away!

Several catamaran cruises leave right from Waikiki Beach – just walk down to the sand, step into the surf and hop aboard. A 90-minute, all-you-can-drink ‘booze cruise’ will typically cost you $25 to $40 per adult. Reservations are recommended for sunset sails, which sell out fast.

Top choices are Na Hoku II ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-554-5990; www.nahokuii.com; incl drinks $30), a catamaran with unmistakable yellow-and-red striped sails that heads out four times daily (every two hours from 11.30am to 5.30pm), and Maita‘i ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-5665; www.leahi.com; adult/child from $28/14; c), a similar cat with green sails.

Eating

5Food PantrySUPERMARKET $

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It’s more expensive than chain supermarkets found elsewhere in Honolulu, but cheaper than buying groceries at Waikiki’s convenience stores; look for a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf coffee bar inside.

(2370 Kuhio Ave; h6am-1am)

5Marukame UdonJAPANESE $

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Everybody loves this Japanese noodle shop, which is so popular there is often a line stretching down the sidewalk. Watch those thick udon noodles get rolled, cut and boiled fresh right in front of you, then stack mini plates of giant tempura and musubi (rice balls) stuffed with salmon or a sour plum on your cafeteria tray.

(%808-931-6000; www.facebook.com/marukameudon; 2310 Kuhio Ave; mains $2-8; h7am-9am & 11am-10pm; c)

5Ruffage Natural FoodsHEALTH FOOD $

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This pint-sized health-food store whips up taro burgers, veggie burritos, deli sandwiches with fresh avocado and real-fruit smoothies that will revitalize your whole body. At night, the grocery shop shares space with a tiny, backpacker-friendly sushi bar run by a Japanese expat chef.

(%808-922-2042; www.facebook.com/ruffage.naturalfoods; 2443 Kuhio Ave; mains $4-8; h9am-9pm; v)

5Me's BBQHAWAIIAN, KOREAN $

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The street-side takeout counter may be a tad short on atmosphere, but there are plastic tables sitting in the sunshine where you can chow down on Korean standards such as kimchi and kalbi (marinated short ribs). The wall-size picture menu offers a mind-boggling array of mixed-plate combos including chicken katsu (batter-fried chicken), Portuguese sausage and eggs, and other only-in-Hawaii tastes.

(%808-926-9717; 151 Uluniu Ave; mains $5-12; h7am-8:45pm Mon-Sat; c)

5Musubi Cafe IyasumeJAPANESE $

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Hole-in-the-wall keeps busy making fresh onigiri (rice balls) stuffed with seaweed, salmon roe, sour plums and even Spam. Other specialties include salmon-roe rice bowls, bizarre Japanese curry and island-style mochiko fried chicken. In a hurry? Grab a bentō (boxed lunch) to go.

(www.tonsuke.com/eomusubiya.html; 2427 Kuhio Ave, Pacific Monarch Hotel; menu items $2-8; h6:30am-8pm)

5Veggie Star Natural FoodsHEALTH FOOD $

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For organic, all-natural and health-conscious groceries, plus tropical smoothies and monster-sized vegetarian burritos, fake-meat burgers, salads and ‘airplane ready’ sandwiches wrapped to go, visit this little side-street shop. It’s the vegan chili that makes the most people rave.

(%808-922-9568; 417 Nahua St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; v)

5Siam SquareTHAI $

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It’s Waikiki’s most authentic Thai restaurant, although that’s not saying much. You want it spicy? You won’t have to work too hard to convince your waitress that you can handle the heat when you order larb pork salad or fried fish with chili sauce. Service is standoffish, but the kitchen works so fast and furiously that you probably won’t mind.

(%808-923-5320; 2nd fl, 408 Lewers St; mains $11-16; h11am-10.30pm; v)

5Ramen NakamuraJAPANESE $

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Hit this urban connoisseurs' noodle shop at lunchtime and you’ll have to strategically elbow aside Japanese tourists toting Gucci and Chanel bags just to sit down. Then you’re free to dig into hearty bowls of oxtail or tonkatsu (breaded and fried pork cutlets) or kimchi ramen soup with crunchy fried garlic slices on top. Cash only.

(%808-922-7960; 2141 Kalakaua Ave; mains $9-14; h11am-11:30pm)

5Eggs 'n' ThingsBREAKFAST $

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Never empty, this bustling diner dishes straight-up comfort food: banana-and-mac-nut pancakes with tropical syrups (guava, honey or coconut), sugary crepes topped with fresh fruit, or fluffy omelets scrambled with Portuguese sausage. You’ll fit right in with the early-morning crowd of jet-lagged tourists lined up outside the door – and sometimes around the block.

(www.eggsnthings.com; 343 Saratoga Rd; mains $9-18; h6am-2pm & 4-10pm; c)

5LuLu’s Surf ClubAMERICAN $$

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Surfboards on the wall and an awesome ocean view set the mood at this gregarious open-air restaurant, bar and nightclub. LuLu’s filling breakfasts, complete with ‘dawn patrol’ omelets, eggs Benedict, stuffed French toast, loco moco and fruit bowls, are legendary. Sunset Happy Hour runs everyday 3pm to 5pm.

(%808-926-5222; www.luluswaikiki.com; Park Shore Waikiki, 2586 Kalakaua Ave; mains breakfast $6-15, dinner $10-24; h7am-2am; c)

5Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi BarJAPANESE, FUSION $$

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From the mind of one of Hawaii’s hottest chefs, DK Kodama, this Pacific Rim menu rolls out everything from ‘new look’ fusion sushi and sashimi to Dungeness crab ramen with black-truffle broth – all to rave reviews. Tables on the torch-lit verandah equal prime sunset views.

(%808-931-6286; www.sanseihawaii.com; 3rd fl, Marriott Waikiki Beach Resort, 2552 Kalakaua Ave; most shared plates $5-20, mains $16-35; h5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

5VerandaCAFE $$$

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For colonial atmosphere that harks back to early-20th-century tourist traditions, traditional afternoon tea comes complete with finger sandwiches, scones with pillowy Devonshire cream and tropically flavored pastries. Portions are small, but the oceanfront setting and house-blended teas are memorable. Make reservations and come prepared to shoo away those pesky beggar birds.

(%808-921-4600; www.moana-surfrider.com; Moana Surfrider, 2365 Kalakaua Ave; afternoon tea from $34; h6-11am, midday-3pm; p)

5Roy's WaikikiHAWAII REGIONAL $$$

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This contemporary incarnation of Roy Yamaguchi’s island-born chain is perfect for a flirty date or just celebrating the good life. The ground-breaking chef doesn’t actually cook in the kitchen here, but his signature misoyaki butterfish, blackened ahi (tunafish) and macadamia-nut-encrusted mahimahi are always on the menu (vegans and vegetarians have options, too). Molten-chocolate soufflé for dessert is a must.

(%808-923-7697; www.royshawaii.com; 226 Lewers St; mains $30-60; h11am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun)

5AzureSEAFOOD $$$

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Azure is the signature restaurant at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Seafood fresh from the pier, such as Kona abalone, red snapper and ono (white-fleshed mackerel), are all exquisitely prepared island-style, with finishing touches such as red Hawaiian sea salt and Molokaʻi purple sweet potatoes on the side.

(%808-921-4600; www.azurewaikiki.com; Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave; mains from $38, 5-course tasting menu $79; h5:30-9pm)

5Morimoto WaikikiASIAN FUSION $$$

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In Modern Honolulu boutique hotel, Iron Chef Morimoto’s oceanfront dining room seduces with coconut cocktails and yacht-harbor views from a sunny poolside patio. Sink back against a mod sea-green pillow banquette and fork into cubic seafood poke and sushi rolls, ginger-soy braised black cod, wagyu beef loco moco or curried whole roasted lobster. Complimentary valet parking with restaurant validation.

(%808-943-5900; www.morimotowaikiki.com; Modern Honolulu, 1775 Ala Moana Blvd; lunch $18-35, dinner mains $22-50; h11am-2:30pm & 5-10pm; p)

Morimoto Waikiki, at Modern Honolulu

JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES ©

5NobuJAPANESE, FUSION $$$

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Nobu Matsuhisa’s first Japanese-fusion restaurant and sushi bar in Hawaii has made a big splash, and his elegant seafood tapas tastes right at home by the beach. Broiled black cod with miso sauce, new-style sashimi with spicy sauce drizzled on top and Japanese-Peruvian tiradito (ceviche) rank among Nobu’s signature tastes. A low-lit cocktail lounge serves appetizing small bites and ‘sake-tinis.’

(%808-237-6999; www.noburestaurants.com/waikiki; Waikiki Parc, 2233 Helumoa Rd; shared dishes $5-48, mains $30-40; hrestaurant 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat, lounge 5pm-midnight daily)

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Local Life

A Taste of Kapahulu Ave

Head just a little northeast of Waikiki Beach for these great local flavors:

A Leonard's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-737-5591; www.leonardshawaii.com; 933 Kapahulu Ave; snacks from $1; h5:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, 5:30am-11pm Fri & Sat; c) Famous for its malasadas, sweet fried dough rolled in sugar – like a doughnut without the hole.

A Ono Seafood ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-732-4806; 747 Kapahulu Ave; mains $7-12; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Get there early before they run out of fresh fish marinated in shōyu (soy sauce), house-smoked tako (octopus), spicy ʻahi rice bowls or boiled peanuts spiked with star anise.

A Haili's Hawaiian ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-8019; http://hailishawaiianfood.com; 760 Palani Ave; meals $11-16; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) Dig into heaping plates of kalua pig, lomilomi salmon and laulau (meat wrapped in ti leaves and steamed) served with poi or rice.

A Uncle Bo's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-8311; www.unclebosrestaurant.com; 559 Kapahulu Ave; shared plates $8-15, mains $19-27; h5pm-1am) Boisterous groups devour the inventive chef’s encyclopedic list of fusion pupu (appetizers); dinner focuses on market-fresh seafood. Reservations recommended.

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Top Tip

Hiking Hawaii Cafe & Tours

Hiking Hawaii Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %855-808-4453; hikinghawaii808.com/cafe.php; 1910 Ala Moana Blvd; h7am-9pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun & Mon; W) is a downstairs eco-cafe serving up healthy meals such as paninis, wraps and smoothies using fresh local produce. There's complimentary wi-fi and the cafe serves as base for Hiking Hawaii's various daily tours on Oʻahu. A great spot to hang out.

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Local Life

Waiola Shave Ice

Waiola Shave Ice ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-949-2269; www.waiolashaveice.com; 3113 Mokihana St; shave ice $2-5; h11am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun; pc) still makes the same superfine shave ice as it did back in 1940, and we’d argue that it’s got the formula exactly right. Get yours doused with 20-plus flavors of syrup and topped by azuki beans, lilikoʻi cream, condensed milk, Hershey’s chocolate syrup or spicy-sweet li hing mui (crack seed).

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Local Life

People's Open Market

The city-sponsored People's Open Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.honolulu.gov/parks/dprpom.html; cnr Monsarrat & Paki Aves, Kapiʻolani Park; h10-11am Wed; v) in Kapiʻolani Park sees farmers trade in fresh bounty from mauka (the mountains) to makai (the sea). Only a short walk from Waikiki along Monsarrat Ave.

Understand

Eat Inland for Value

Along Kalakaua Ave, chains such as the Cheesecake Factory overflow with hungry tourists. A block inland, Kuhio Ave is great for cheap grazing, especially at multiethnic take-out joints.

On the outskirts of Waikiki, Kapahulu Ave is always worth a detour for its standout neighborhood eateries, drive-ins and bakeries, cooking up anything from Hawaiian soul food to Japanese country fare. Wander down past the zoo and Waikiki School to reach some great eating options up on Monsarrat Ave.

Drinking

6RumFireBAR

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The collection of vintage rum is mighty tempting at this lively hotel bar at the Sheraton Waikiki, with flirty fire pits looking out onto the beach and live contemporary Hawaiian (or jazz) music. Or wander over to the resort’s cabana-like Edge of Waikiki Bar for knockout views, designer cocktails and more live Hawaiian and pop-rock music poolside.

(www.rumfirewaikiki.com; Sheraton Waikiki, 2255 Kalakaua Ave; hnoon-midnight)

6Addiction Nightclub & Lobby BarCLUB, BAR

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Superstar mainland DJs and island dynamos spin at this boutique hotel’s chic nightspot with an upscale dress code (no shorts, flip-flops or hats). On special weekends, Addiction’s daytime beach club lets you hang out on the pool deck with the sounds of electronica and techno grooves.

(%808-943-5800; www.addictionnightclub.com; Modern Honolulu, 1775 Ala Moana Blvd; hnightclub 10:30pm-3am Thu-Sun, beach club noon-4pm Sat, lobby bar 6pm-late daily)

6Five-0 Bar & LoungeSPORTS BAR

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You won’t spot any Hawaii 5-0 stars hiding out among the tropical lanai greenery inside this shopping-mall bar, but it’s still loads of fun with friends. Boogie down on the dance floor or twirl the swizzle stick in your mai tai while listening to live bands, then belly up to the polished native-wood bar for kalua pork sliders.

(%808-922-0550; www.five-o-bar.com; 2nd fl, Bldg B, Royal Hawaiian Center, 2233 Kalakaua Ave; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun)

6Lewers LoungeLOUNGE

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The nostalgic dream of Waikiki as an aristocratic playground is kept alive at this Halekulani hotel bar. We're talking contemporary and classic cocktails, tempting appetizers and desserts, and smooth jazz combos that serenade after 8:30pm nightly.

(2199 Kalia Rd, Halekulani; h7:30pm-1am)

6Genius LoungeLOUNGE

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Like a Japanese speakeasy, this glowing candle-lit hideaway is a chill retreat for ultracool hipsters and lovebird couples. East-West tapas bites let you nibble on squid tempura, loco moco or banana cake while you sip made-in-Japan sake brews and retro jazz or cutting-edge electronica tickles your ears.

(%808-626-5362; www.geniusloungehawaii.com; 3rd fl, 346 Lewers St; h6pm-2am)

6Da Big KahunaBAR

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Do you dream of a kitschy tiki bar where fruity, Kool Aid–colored drinks are poured into ceramic mugs carved with the faces of Polynesian gods? To get soused fast, order Da Fish Bowl – just don’t try picking up a pool cue or shimmying on the small dance floor once you’ve drained it. Full food menu served till 3am.

(%808-923-0033; www.dabigkahuna.net; 2299 Kuhio Ave; h10:30am-3am)

6Nashville WaikikiBAR, CLUB

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Like Waikiki’s own little honkytonk, this country-and-western dive bar can get as rowdy as a West Texas brawl. Homesick Southerners show up for sports TVs, billiards, darts, pool tournaments, and free line-dancing and two-steppin’ lessons. Afternoon, evening and late-night happy hours seem endless.

(www.nashvillewaikiki.com; 2330 Kuhio Ave; h4pm-4am)

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Local Life

Gay & Lesbian Waikiki

Waikiki’s main gay venue, Hula's Bar & Lei Stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-0669; www.hulas.com; 2nd fl, Castle Waikiki Grand, 134 Kapahulu Ave; h10am-2am; W), is a friendly, open-air bar. Hunker down at the pool table, or gaze at the spectacular vista of Diamond Head. The breezy balcony bar also has views of Queen's Surf Beach, a prime destination for a sun-worshipping LGBTQ crowd.

Understand

Surfing

History of Hawaiian Surfing

The earliest written account of surfing is by Lieutenant James King, one of Captain Cook's men, in 1779. He devoted two full pages to a description of 'surfboard riding' in the voyage's journals. He could tell just how much fun the sport was, writing '...they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion that this exercise gives.'

Surfing is believed to have originated long ago in ancient Polynesia, later thriving in Hawaii. By 1779, riding waves was an integral part of Hawaiian culture. With the arrival of western missionaries in the 1800s however, Hawaiian customs like hula and surfing were discouraged.

In the late 1800s King Kalakaua revived the hula, encouraging a return of Hawaiian cultural pride. In the early 1900s, surfing was revitalized on Waikiki Beach by Duke Kahanamoku and other beachboys, who taught visitors how to surf. Duke later became a gold-medal Olympic swimmer and known as the 'father of modern surfing,' spreading the sport to the mainland US and Australia.

Big Wave Surfing

In the 1950s surfers began to ride the powerful winter waves on Oʻahu’s North Shore and Leeward coasts. Big waves hit Hawaii between November and February and some of the world's best surfing competitions are held on Oʻahu’s North Shore in November and December, including the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

Surfing in Waikiki

Slow mellow combers (long, curling waves) provide the perfect training ground for beginners in Waikiki. Board rentals abound on central Waikiki Beach and local beachboys are always on hand for lessons at spots like mellow Queens, mushy Canoes, and gentle but often crowded Populars. For surf reports, check out Surf News Network (www.surfnewsnetwork.com).

Surfing Tributes

In Waikiki, look out for the statue of Duke Kahanamoku ( GOOGLE MAP ) on the waterfront on Kalakaua Ave. While critics say that Duke would never have his back to the sea, this much-loved statue of a real Hawaiian hero is often covered in flower lei. Further towards Diamond Head you'll find the Surfer on a Wave statue, celebrating surfing as a major part of the culture of Waikiki.

Entertainment

3House Without a KeyLIVE MUSIC, HULA

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Named after a 1925 Charlie Chan novel set in Honolulu, this genteel open-air hotel lounge sprawled beneath a century-old kiawe tree simply has no doors to lock. A sophisticated crowd gathers here for sunset cocktails, Hawaiian music and solo hula dancing by former Miss Hawaii pageant winners. Panoramic ocean views are as intoxicating as the tropical cocktails.

(%808-923-2311; www.halekulani.com; Halekulani, 2199 Kalia Rd; h7am-9pm)

House Without a Key

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

3Mai Tai BarLIVE MUSIC, HULA

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At the Royal Hawaiian’s low-key bar (no preppy resort wear required), you can catch some great acoustic island music acts and graceful solo hula dancers some nights. Even if you don’t dig who’s performing, the signature Royal Mai Tai still packs a punch and romantic views of the breaking surf extend down to Diamond Head.

(%808-923-7311; www.royal-hawaiian.com; Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave; h10am-midnight)

3Beach BarLIVE MUSIC, HULA

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Inside this historic beachfront hotel bar, soak up the sounds of classical and contemporary Hawaiian musicians playing underneath the old banyan tree where the Hawaii Calls radio program was broadcast nationwide during the mid-20th century. Live-music schedules vary, but hula soloists dance from 6pm to 8pm most nights.

(%808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; Moana Surfrider, 2365 Kalakaua Ave; h10:30am-midnight)

3Tapa BarLIVE MUSIC

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It’s worth navigating through the gargantuan Hilton resort complex to this Polynesian-themed open-air bar just to see some of the best traditional and contemporary Hawaiian groups performing on Oʻahu today. There is live music nightly from 7.30pm or 8pm.

(%808-949-4321; www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com; ground fl, Tapa Tower, Hilton Hawaiian Village, 2005 Kalia Rd; h10am-11pm)

3Moana TerraceLIVE MUSIC

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If you’re in a mellow mood, come for sunset happy-hour drinks at this casual, poolside bar, just a lei’s throw from Kuhio Beach. Slack key guitarists, ukulele players and haʻi falsetto singers make merry for a family-friendly crowd.

(%808-922-6611; 2nd fl, Marriott Waikiki Beach Resort, 2552 Kalakaua Ave; h11am-11pm; c)

3Kani Ka Pila GrilleLIVE MUSIC

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Once happy hour ends, the Outrigger’s lobby bar sets the scene for some of the most laid-back live-music shows of any of Waikiki’s beachfront hotels, with traditional and contemporary Hawaiian musicians playing their hearts out and cracking jokes.

(%808-924-4990; www.outriggerreef.com; Outrigger Reef on the Beach, 2169 Kalia Rd; h11am-10pm)

3Royal GroveLIVE MUSIC, HULA

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This shopping mall’s open-air stage may lack oceanfront views, but Hawaiian music and hula performances by top island talent happen here almost every evening, along with twice-weekly lunchtime shows by performers from the Windward Coast’s Polynesian Cultural Center and concerts by the Royal Hawaiian Band.

(%808-922-2299; www.royalhawaiiancenter.com/info/entertainment; ground fl, Royal Hawaiian Center, 2201 Kalakaua Ave; hschedules vary)

3ʻAha ʻAinaLUAU

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This oceanfront sit-down dinner show is like a three-act musical play narrating the history of Hawaiian mele (songs) and hula. The food is top notch and there’s an open bar.

(%808-921-4600; www.royal-hawaiian.com/dining/ahaaina; Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave; adult/child 5-12yr from $179/101; h5:30-8pm Mon)

3Waikiki Starlight LuauLUAU

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Enthusiastic pan-Polynesian show, with buffet meal, outdoor seating, Samoan fire dancing and hapa haole (literally, ‘half foreign’) hula.

(%808-947-2607; www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com/luau; Hilton Hawaiian Village, 2005 Kalia Rd; adult/child 4-11yr from $99/50; h5:30-8pm Sun-Thu, weather permitting; c)

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Top Tip

Sunset on the Beach

On some starry Saturday nights, Queen’s Surf Beach turns into a festive scene. Dubbed Sunset on the Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sunsetonthebeach.net), tables and chairs are set up on the sand and live Hawaiian music acts perform on a beachside stage for about two hours before show time. When darkness falls, a huge screen is unscrolled and a feature movie is shown, starting around 7pm. Sometimes it’s a film with island connections, such as Blue Hawaii (the 1961 classic starring Elvis Presley), while other nights it’s a Hollywood blockbuster.

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Top Tip

What's on?

Whether you want to linger over one of those cool, frosty drinks with the little umbrellas or are craving live Hawaiian music and hula dancing, you’re in the right place. For what’s going on tonight, from DJ and live-music gigs to special events, check the Honolulu Star-Advertiser’s TGIF (www.honolulupulse.com) section, which comes out every Friday, and the free alternative tabloid Honolulu Weekly (http://honoluluweekly.com/), published every Wednesday.

Shopping

7Royal Hawaiian CenterMALL

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Not to be confused with the Royal Hawaiian resort hotel next door, Waikiki’s biggest shopping center has four levels and houses more than 80 breezily mixed stores. Look for Hawaii-born labels such as Noa Noa for Polynesian-print sarongs, sundresses and shirts. Art galleries display high-quality koa carvings, while jewelers trade in Niʻihau shell-lei necklaces and flower lei stands sell fresh, wearable art.

(www.royalhawaiiancenter.com; 2201 Kalakaua Ave; h10am-10pm)

Royal Hawaiian Center

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

7Reyn SpoonerCLOTHING

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Since 1956, Reyn Spooner’s subtly designed, reverse-print preppy aloha shirts have been the standard for Honolulu’s businessmen, political power brokers and social movers-and-shakers. Reyn’s Waikiki flagship is a bright, mod and clean-lined store, carrying colorful racks of men’s shirts and board shorts, too. Also at Kahala Mall and Ala Moana Center. Ask about Reyn’s Rack downtown for discounts on factory seconds.

(%808-923-7896; www.reynspooner.com; Sheraton Waikiki, 2259 Kalakaua Ave; h8am-10:30pm)

7Ukulele PuaPuaUKULELE

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Avoid those flimsy souvenir ukuleles and head to one of PuaPua's two locations, one at the Sheraton Waikiki, the other at the Moana Surfrider ( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-716-8112, 808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; 2365 Kalakaua Ave; r from $350; paiWs), to find the real thing. These guys are passionate and offer free group beginner lessons every day.

(%808-924-2266; www.hawaiianukuleleonline.com; Sheraton Waikiki, 2255 Kalakaua Ave; h9am-10pm)

Ukulele for sale

ROSAIRENEBETANCOURT 2/ALAMY ©

7Newt at the RoyalCLOTHING

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With stylish flair and panache, Newt specializes in Montecristi Panama hats – classic men’s fedoras, plantation-style hats and women’s fino. It also has fine reproductions of aloha shirts using 1940s and ‘50s designs. Everything’s tropical, neat as a pin and top-drawer quality.

(www.newtattheroyal.com; Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave; h9am-9pm)

7Genius OutfittersARTS, CRAFTS

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This cutesy arts, crafts and clothing store on Lewers specializes in locally made goods. It covers the first two floors of an attractive three-story building with Genius Lounge on top.

(%808-922-2822; www.geniusoutfitters.net; 346 Lewers St; h10.30am-10pm)

7Peggy's PicksCOLLECTIBLES

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Peggy's Picks on Kapahulu Ave is the place to go for Hawaiiana, treasures and collectibles from all over the world. It's a bit ramshackle and can get a tad crowded, but well worth it for the collectors among us.

(%808-737-3297; www.facebook.com/PeggysPicks; 732 Kapahalu Ave; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)

7Island PaddlerCLOTHING

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Besides having a great selection of paddles and paddling gear, these guys have T-shirts, aloha shirts, beachwear and everything you might need for a day at the beach – along with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

(%808-737-4854; www.islandpaddlerhawaii.com; 716 Kapahulu Ave; h10am-6pm)

7Art on the Zoo FenceARTS, CRAFTS

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Dozens of artists hang their works along the fence on the south side of the Honolulu Zoo every weekend, weather permitting. Browse the contemporary watercolor, acrylic and oil paintings and colorful island photography as you chat with the artists themselves.

(www.artonthezoofence.com; Monsarrat Ave, opposite Kapiʻolani Park; h9am-4pm Sat & Sun)

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Local Life

Feather Lei

At Na Lima Mili Hulu Noʻeau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-732-0865; 762 Kapahulu Ave; husually 9am-4pm Mon-Sat), the ancient craft of feather-lei making is alive and well. The store's name means 'the skilled hands that touch the feathers.' It can take days to produce a single feather lei, prized by collectors. Call ahead to check opening hours or make an appointment for a personalized lesson.

Diamond Head & Kahala

Cue the Hawaii Five-0 music and pretend to be a movie star as you cruise east from Waikiki through the glamorous suburb of Kahala, past the incomparable Diamond Head, Oʻahu’s best-known landmark, and billionaire Doris Duke's former mansion, Shangri La. This affluent seaside suburb is home to many of Oʻahu’s wealthiest residents plus the island's most exclusive resort hotel.

VITO PALMISANO/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M You'll want to climb up Diamond Head earlyish to avoid the full heat of the day. If you've walked from Waikiki, refresh yourself at Diamond Head Cove Health Bar on Monsarrat Ave either on your way or on your way back. Alternatively, if it's a Saturday, drop in to the KCC Farmers Market at Kapiʻolani Community College.

R Take lunch at Kahala Mall, before heading into town to the Honolulu Museum of Art – this is where all tours of Doris Duke's Shangri La leave from. It will be late afternoon by the time you're back in Kahala.

N Head to Town on Waiʻalae Ave for dinner, then depending on schedules, drop in to the Movie Museum close by, watch a movie back at Kahala Mall, or best of all, watch a show at Diamond Head Theatre.

1  Top Sights

Diamond Head

Shangri La

x  Best of Honolulu

Drinking & Entertainment

Diamond Head Theatre

Museums

Shangri La

For Kids

Kahala Mall

Outdoor Activities

Diamond Head

Getting There

g Bus From Waikiki, catch TheBus 22, 23 or 24 for Diamond Head and Kahala Mall.

u Car From Waikiki, head up Monsarrat Ave for Diamond Head. Hwy 1 ends at Kahala and becomes Kalanianaʻole Hwy out to Hawaiʻi Kai.

Foot Diamond Head is within walking distance of Waikiki.

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Top Sights

Diamond Head

Is there a more recognizable backdrop in Hawaii? Named when British sailors thought they'd found diamonds here in 1825, this volcanic tuff cone and crater was used by ancient Hawaiians for human sacrifices. These days, even families with kids in tow can tackle the military-built 0.8-mile trail up to the windy summit with fantastic 360-degree views of the southeast coast to Koko Head and the Leeward Coast to the Waiʻanae Range.

View from Diamond Head summit

ANNA GORIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

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www.hawaiistateparks.org; off Diamond Head Rd btwn Makapuʻu & 18th Aves; admission per pedestrian/car $1/5; h6am-6pm, last trail entry 4:30pm; c

y Top Tips

A The state park has restrooms, drinking fountains, vending machines and a picnic area. There's plenty of parking; $5 entry for cars, cash only.

A The trail is mostly open and hot, so wear a hat and sunscreen and bring plenty of water. It's a good idea to get started early before the day heats up.

A Although fairly steep, the trail has tunnels and staircases, is partly paved and takes about an hour and a half round-trip.

5 Take a Break

On your way back down to Waikiki, drop in at Diamond Head Cove Health Bar, just up from Waikiki School, for one of their delicious acai bowls.

Don't Miss

Tunnels and Stairs

Well you can't miss them if you're climbing to the summit, but take your time and enjoy them! The first set of 74 concrete steps is followed by a lighted 225ft-long tunnel. Next up is a set of 99 steep steps, then entry to the lowest level of the Fire Control Station.

Fire Control Station

The Fire Control Station was built to direct artillery fire from batteries at Fort DeRussy in Waikiki and Fort Ruger outside Diamond Head crater. Continue your adventure by climbing a lighted spiral staircase until you exit to the exterior of the crater. Finally, a set of 54 metal stairs that were installed in the 1970s to replace a ladder, takes you to the top. You're now at the crater summit and the uppermost level of the Fire Control Station (761ft). Enjoy the view!

The Loop Trail

Don't head back down the way you came. From the summit, follow the trail along the rim and descend the 82 metal steps down to the lower trail. The bunkers along the crater rim were built in 1915. Before heading down the Loop Trail, which will take you back to the top of the 225ft-long tunnel you went through earlier, wander out to the Lookout.

The Lookout

There are impressive views from the Lookout of the southeastern O‘ahu coastline towards Koko Head. On a clear day you may even spot the islands of Moloka‘i, Lana‘i and Maui. If it's winter, keep an eye out for passing whales.

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Top Sights

Shangri La

Doris Duke, the tobacco heiress who was once nick-named 'the richest little girl in the world', inherited an immense fortune in 1925 when her father died. Ten years later, on her honeymoon, she fell in love with O‘ahu and subsequently built a dazzling oceanfront hideaway on Black Point, in the shadow of Diamond Head. Over the next 60 years she traveled the globe from Indonesia to Istanbul and stocked Shangri La with priceless Islamic art.

Pool and the Playhouse, Shangri La

ALVIS UPITIS/ALAMY ©

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%808-532-3853; www.shangrilahawaii.org; 2½hr tour incl transportation $25; htours 9am, 10:30am & 1:30pm Wed-Sat, closed early Sep-early Oct

y Top Tips

A Shangri La can only be visited on a guided tour departing from downtown’s Honolulu Museum of Arts, where you’ll watch a brief background video first, then travel as a group by minibus to the estate.

A Tours often sell out weeks ahead of time, so make reservations as far ahead as possible at www.honolulumuseum.org.

A Shangri La is closed to tours from early September to early October.

5 Take a Break

A brilliant option either before or after your tour, the Honolulu Museum of Arts Cafe is open for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday.

Don't Miss

The Mughal Suite

Newly renovated and first opened to the public in 2014, this bedroom and bathroom suite is a set of rooms that Doris Duke (1912–93) commissioned architect Frances Blomfield in Delhi, India to design while on her 1935 honeymoon. The suite, originally designed to be for Duke's personal use, reflects the rooms’ earliest completed appearance in 1939 as shown in photographs in the architect’s album.

The Damascus Room

In 1952, Doris Duke purchased 'one old Damascus Room made of old painted panels of wood'. The room, which would have originally decorated a reception room of an affluent courtyard home in Syria, is now a highlight of the Islamic art collection and was first opened to the public in 2012.

The Mughal Garden

The idea for Shangri La's Mughal Garden was based on royal gardens found throughout the Indian subcontinent. During her 1935 honeymoon travels in India, Doris Duke was exposed to the sumptuous gardens of the high Mughal period, particularly those built in the cities of Agra, Delhi and Lahore.

Playhouse

At the western end of Shangri La and adjacent to the ocean, the Playhouse is a poolside pavilion inspired by the Chehel Sutun palace in Isfahan, the capital of Iran from 1598 to 1722. Featuring a large living room, a kitchen and two bedroom suites, it has a large deck with a painted wood ceiling supported by 14 columns, facing a gorgeous pool.

1 Top Sights

Diamond Head  B3

Shangri La  C4

1 Sights

1Diamond Head Beach Park  B4

2Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park  B4

3Waiʻalae Beach Park  E2

5 Eating

4Hoku's  E2

Whole Foods  D2

5Crack Seed Store  C1

612th Avenue Grill  C1

7Salt Kitchen & Tasting Bar  C1

8Town  B1

3 Entertainment

9Diamond Head Theater  B2

10Kahala Mall  D2

11Movie Museum  C1

7 Shopping

Kahala Mall  D2

Sights

1Diamond Head Beach ParkBEACH

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Bordering the lighthouse, this rocky beach occasionally draws surfers, snorkelers and tide-poolers, plus a few picnickers. The narrow strand nicknamed Lighthouse Beach is popular with gay men, who pull off Diamond Head Rd onto short, dead-end Beach Rd, then walk east along the shore to find a little seclusion and (illegally) sunbathe au naturel.

(3300 Diamond Head Rd)

1Kuilei Cliffs Beach ParkBEACH

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In the shadow of Diamond Head, this rocky beach draws experienced windsurfers when the tradewinds are blowing. When the swells are up, surfers take over the waves. The little beach has outdoor showers but no other facilities. You’ll find paved parking lots off Diamond Head Rd, just east of the lighthouse.

(3450 Diamond Head Rd)

1Waiʻalae Beach ParkBEACH

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At this picturesque sandy beach, a gentle stream meets the sea. Local surfers challenge Razors, a break off the channel’s west side. Swimming conditions are usually calm, though not the best due to the shallow reef. A favorite of wedding parties, the beach park has shady picnic tables, restrooms and outdoor showers. The parking lot is often full.

(4925 Kahala Ave)

Wai‘alae Beach Park

DOUGLAS PEEBLES PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY ©

Understand

Top Real Estate

Keep your eyes open as you drive east from Waikiki, down Kalakaua Ave on the coastal side of Kapi'olani Park, around Diamond Head Rd, squeezed between the volcano and the sea, then onto Kahala Ave. You're looking at some of the swankiest real estate on the island! Once you hit Kahala Ave, Black Point pokes out into the ocean on your right and we're talking major-league mansions. A bit further along and you run into the Waialae Country Club – Oʻahu’s most exclusive resort hotel, with its golf course hosting and annual PGA event.

Eating

5Hoku'sPACIFIC RIM $$$

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Chef Wayne Hirabayashi is revered for his elegant East-West creations such as braised short ribs with avocado tempura and wok-fried market-fresh fish paired with a world-ranging wine list. Sunday brunch buffet stars a seafood raw bar piled high with all-you-can-eat king-crab legs and a chocolate dessert fountain. Make reservations and inquire about the dress code.

(%808-739-8760; www.kahalaresort.com; Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave; Sun brunch adult/child 6-12yr $65/33, dinner mains $30-65; h10am-2pm Sun, 5:30-10pm Wed-Sun)

5Whole FoodsSUPERMARKET $

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Fill your picnic basket with organic produce and locally made specialty foods, hot and cold deli items, takeout sushi and salads, made-to-order hot pizzas and imported wines.

(http://wholefoodsmarket.com; Kahala Mall, 4211 Waiʻalae Ave; h7am-10pm; v)

5Crack Seed StoreSWEETS $

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Mom-and-pop candy store on a side street in Kaimuki vends overflowing glass jars of made-from-scratch crack seed, plus addictive frozen slushies spiked with li hing mui (salty dried plums).

(%818-737-1022; 1156 Koko Head Ave; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, midday-4pm Sun; c)

512th Avenue GrillMODERN AMERICAN $$$

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Hidden in a side road off Wai‘alae Ave, this Kaimuki grill has been picking up a number of best restaurant awards of late. Combining the efforts of an impressive team and using as much local produce as possible, 12th Ave Grill has the locals drooling.

(%808-732-9469; http://12thavegrill.com; 1120 12th Ave; mains $18-36; h5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

5Salt Kitchen & Tasting BarMODERN AMERICAN $$

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Mexican oxtail empanadas, Italian ravioli made with Hawaii-grown squash, and Indian naan with pickled eggplant fill the tapas-sized plates lined up all along the lacquered bar top. Bartenders shake up grapefruit daiquiris and tequila martinis for a chic crowd of urbane revelers during afternoon happy hours in the Kaimuki neighborhood.

(%808-744-7567; http://salthonolulu.com; 3605 Waiʻalae Ave; shared plates $5-21, mains $10-25; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

5TownFUSION $$

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At this hip modern coffee shop and bistro hybrid in Kaimuki, the motto is ‘local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always.’ On the daily-changing menu of boldly flavored cooking are burgers and steaks made from North Shore free-range cattle and salads that taste as if the ingredients were just plucked from a backyard garden.

(%808-735-5900; www.townkaimuki.com; 3435 Waiʻalae Ave; mains breakfast & lunch $5-16, dinner $16-26; h7am-2:30pm daily, plus 5:30-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

l

Local Life

Oʻahu’s Top Farmers Market

At Oʻahu’s premier gathering of farmers and their fans, the KCC Farmers Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://hfbf.org/markets; parking lot C, Kapiʻolani Community College, 4303 Diamond Head Rd; h7:30-11am Sat; vc), everything sold is locally made or grown and has a loyal following, from Nalo greens to Kahuku shrimp and corn. Get there early for the best of everything.

Entertainment

3Diamond Head TheaterTHEATER

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Opened in 1915 and known as 'the Broadway of the Pacific', this lovely old theater is the third oldest continuously running community theater in the USA. Runs a variety of high-quality shows throughout the year with everything from Mary Poppins to Spamalot to South Pacific. Also runs acting, dancing and singing classes.

(%808-733-0277; www.diamondheadtheatre.com; 520 Makapuu Ave)

3Kahala MallCINEMA

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Eight-screen multiplex frequently screens independent arthouse and foreign films.

(%movie infoline 808-593-3000; www.kahalamallcenter.com; 4211 Waiʻalae Ave)

3Movie MuseumCINEMA

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In the Kaimuki neighborhood, east of the UH Manoa campus, this sociable spot screens classic oldies, foreign flicks and indie films, including some Hawaii premieres, in a tiny theater equipped with digital sound and just 20 comfy Barca-loungers. Reservations recommended.

(%808-735-8771; www.kaimukihawaii.com; 3566 Harding Ave; tickets $5; hnoon-9pm Thu-Mon)

l

Local Life

Tamura's Poke

Arguably the best poke on the island is up on Waiʻalae Rd in undistinguished-looking Tamura's ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-7100; www.tamurasfinewine.com/pokepage.html; 3496 Waialae Ave, Kaimuki; h11am-8.45pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8.45pm Sat, 9.30am-7:45pm Sun; p). The sign says Fine Wines & Liquors, but head inside, turn right, wander down to poke corner and feast your eyes. The 'spicy ahi' and the smoked marlin is to die for. Ask for tasters before you buy and take away.

Shopping

7Kahala MallMALL

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It’s no competition for the Ala Moana Center, but this neighborhood mall has a noteworthy mix of only-in-Hawaii shops, including Cinnamon Girl clothing boutique, Reyn Spooner and Rix Island Wear for aloha shirts, and Sanrio Surprises selling collectible, hard-to-find imported Hello Kitty toys and logo gear.

(www.kahalamallcenter.com; 4211 Waiʻalae Ave; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

Hawaiʻi Kai & Southeast Oʻahu

Towards the eastern end of Oʻahu, the Kalanianaʻole Hwy (Hwy 72) becomes a slow-and-go coastal drive that swells and dips like the sea itself as it rounds ancient volcanic Koko Head. The snorkeling hotspot of Hanauma Bay, hiking trails on Kuliʻouʻou Ridge and windy Makapuʻu Point, and Oʻahu's most famous body-boarding beaches are all just a short ride from Waikiki.

ADRIAN HOPKINS/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Sights in a Day

M Get to Hanauma Bay nice and early to avoid the crowds and the heat. When you've had enough of snorkeling, drive the sights of Oʻahu's southeast coast, stopping at Lanaʻi Lookout, Halona Blowhole, Sandy Beach Park and Makapuʻu Beach Park. If it's a clear day, take a walk up the Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail to check out the views.

R Back in Hawaiʻi Kai, some sustenance must be in order. For a local-style plate-lunch, head into Fatboy's, or for something lighter, try Kokonuts Shave Ice & Snacks, both at Koko Marina. Try out some of the watersports on offer at the marina, or take a walk at Koko Crater Botanical Garden.

N Once it's time for an Hawaii brew, head to Kona Brewing Company at Koko Marina for dinner and drinks.

1  Top Sights

Hanauma Bay

x  Best of Honolulu

Beaches

Hanauma Bay

Sandy Beach Park

Eating

Bubbies

Drinking & Entertainment

Kona Brewing Company

Hikes

Kuliʻouʻou Ridge Trail

Koko Crater Trail

Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail

Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

Koko Crater Botanical Garden

Getting There

g Bus From Waikiki, TheBus 22 stops at Koko Marina Center (30 minutes) en route to Hanauma Bay; TheBus 23 turns inland at Keahole St.

u Car It takes about 20 minutes to drive to Hawaiʻi Kai from Waikiki. Take H-1 which turns into the Kanalianaʻole Hwy – and carries on around Makapuʻu Point to the Windward Coast.

1

Top Sights

Hanauma Bay

An absolute gem, Hanauma Bay is one of the world's top spots to get an up-close look at spectacular sea life. Protected by a 7000-year old coral reef that stretches across the width of the bay, snorkelers can paddle about and come face-to-face with an amazingly colorful array of tropical fish. You’re bound to see schools of glittering silver fish, the bright-blue flash of parrotfish, and perhaps sea turtles so used to snorkelers they’re ready to go eyeball-to-mask with you.

Sunrise over Hanauma Bay

BASIC ELEMENTS PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

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%808-396-4229; www.honolulu.gov/parks/facility/hanaumabay; adult/child under 13yr $7.50/free; h6am-6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Mar, to 7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct

y Top Tips

A To beat the crowds, arrive as soon as the park opens.

A All built park facilities are wheelchair accessible. Beach wheelchairs for visitors with mobility issues are available free of charge from the information kiosk between 8am and 4pm on a first-come, first-served basis.

A Feeding the fish is strictly prohibited, to preserve the delicate ecological balance of the bay. Despite its protected status, this beloved bay is still a threatened ecosystem, always in danger of being loved to death.

5 Take a Break

On your way back to Honolulu or Waikiki, drop into the Koko Marina Center for a refreshing mochi ice cream at Bubbies or a visit to Kokonuts Shave Ice & Snacks.

Don't Miss

For First-Timers

The bay is well protected from the ocean by reefs and the inlet’s natural curve, making conditions favorable for snorkeling year-round. The fringing reef closest to shore has a large, sandy opening known as the Keyhole Lagoon, which is the best place for novice snorkelers. The deepest water is 10ft, though it’s very shallow over the coral. Be careful not to step on the coral or to accidentally knock it with your fins.

For Confident Snorkelers

For confident snorkelers and strong swimmers, it’s better on the outside of the reef, where there are large coral heads, bigger fish and fewer people; to get there follow the directions on the signboards or ask the lifeguard at the southern end of the beach. Don’t attempt to swim outside the reef when the water is rough. Not only are the channel currents too strong, but the sand will be stirred up and visibility poor.

For Scuba-Divers

If you’re scuba diving, you’ll have the whole bay to play in, with crystal-clear water, coral gardens and sea turtles. Beware of currents when the surf’s up, especially those surges near the shark-infested Witches Brew, on the bay’s right-hand side, and the amusingly named Molokaʻi Express, a treacherous current on the left-hand side of the bay’s mouth.

1 Top Sights

Hanauma Bay  C4

1 Sights

1Lanaʻi Lookout  C3

2Fishing Shrine  D3

3Halona Blowhole  D3

4Halona Cove  D3

5Sandy Beach Park  D3

6Koko Crater Botanical Garden  D3

7Makapuʻu Beach Park  E1

8Sea Life Park  D1

5 Eating

9Bubbie's  B3

Fatboy's  B3

Kona Brewing Company  B3

7 Shopping

Island Treasures at the Marina  B3

Sights

1Lanaʻi LookoutLOOKOUT

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Less than a mile east of Hanauma Bay, roadside Lanaʻi Lookout offers a panorama on clear days of several Hawaiian islands: Lanaʻi to the right, Maui in the middle and Molokaʻi to the left. It’s also a good vantage point for getting a look at lava-rock formations that form the sea cliffs along this coast.

1Fishing ShrineSHRINE

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As you drive east, make sure to keep your eyes toward the ocean. At the highest point, you should spot a templelike mound of rocks. The rocks surround a statue of Jizō, who is a Japanese Buddhist deity and a guardian of fishers. The fishing shrine is often decked out in flower lei and surrounded by sake cups. There is a little roadside pull-off in front of the shrine, about half-mile east of the Lanaʻi Lookout.

(Kalanianaʻole Hwy)

1Halona BlowholeLOOKOUT

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Just watch where all the tour buses are turning off to find this one. Here, ocean waves surge through a submerged tunnel in the rock and spout up through a hole in the ledge. It’s preceded by a gushing sound, created by the air that’s being forced out of the tunnel by rushing water. The action depends on water conditions – sometimes it’s barely discernible, while at other times it’s a real showstopper.

1Halona CoveBEACH

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Take your lover down for a roll in the sand at this sweet pocket cove made famous in the steamy love scene between Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr in the 1953 movie From Here to Eternity. You can peer down at the cove from the Halona Blowhole parking lot, from where you’ll just be able to make out a path leading down to the beach.

1Sandy Beach ParkBEACH

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Here the ocean heaves and thrashes like a furious beast. This is one of Oʻahu’s most dangerous beaches, with a punishing shorebreak, powerful backwash and strong rip currents. Expert bodysurfers and bodyboarders spend hours trying to mount the skull-crushing waves, as crowds gather to watch the daredevils being tossed around. Sandy Beach is wide, very long and, yes, sandy, but this is no place to frolic for the inexperienced – dozens of people are injured every year .

(8800 Kalanianaʻole Hwy)

1Koko Crater Botanical GardenGARDENS

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According to Hawaiian legend, Koko Crater is the imprint left by the magical flying vagina of Kapo, sent from the Big Island to lure the pig-god Kamapuaʻa away from Kapo’s sister Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes. Inside the crater today is a quiet, county-run botanical garden abloom with flowering aloe plants and wiliwili trees, fragrant plumeria, spiny cacti and other native and exotic dryland species. Connecting loop trails lead through the lonely garden.

(www.honolulu.gov/parks/hbg.html; end of Kokonani St; h9am-4pm, closed Dec 25 & Jan 1)

1Makapuʻu Beach ParkBEACH

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Opposite Sea Life Park, Makapuʻu Beach is one of Oʻahu’s top winter bodyboarding and bodysurfing spots, with waves reaching 12ft and higher. It also has the island’s best shorebreak. As with Sandy Beach Park, Makapuʻu is strictly the domain of experts who can handle rough water and dangerous currents. In summer, when the wave action disappears, calmer waters allow swimming. The beach park has restrooms, outdoor showers, drinking water and lifeguards.

(41-095 Kalanianaʻole Hwy)

1Sea Life ParkTHEME PARK

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Hawaii’s only marine-life park offers a small mixed bag of rundown attractions. The theme-park entertainment features animals that aren’t found in Hawaiian waters, though it also maintains a breeding colony of green sea turtles, releasing young hatchlings back into the wild every year.

(%808-259-2500; www.sealifeparkhawaii.com; 41-202 Kalaniana'ole Hwy; adult/child 3-11yr $30/20; h10:30am-5pm; c)

Understand

Makapuʻu Point

Makapuʻu Point and its coastal lighthouse mark the easternmost point of Oʻahu. On the north side of the point, a roadside lookout gives you an exhilarating view down onto Makapuʻu Beach Park, its aqua-blue waters outlined by diamond-white sand and jet-black lava. It’s an even more spectacular sight when hang gliders or paragliders take off from the cliffs above.

Two islands, the larger of which is    Manana Island (aka Rabbit Island), can be seen offshore. Once populated by feral rabbits, this aging volcanic crater now harbors burrowing wedge-tailed shearwaters. Curiously, it looks vaguely like the head of a rabbit with its ears folded back. In front is smaller, flat Kaohikaipu Island, another seabird sanctuary.

Understand

Hawaiʻi Kai

With its yacht-filled marina and breezy canals surrounded by mountains, bays and gentle beach parks, this meticulously planned suburb designed by the late steel tycoon Henry J. Kaiser (he’s the Kai in Hawaiʻi Kai) is a nouveau-riche scene. All the action revolves around the three shopping centers dotted around the marina – off Kalanianaʻole Hwy (Hwy 72) are Hawaiʻi Kai Towne Center and and just further east, Koko Marina Center. Inland on Keahole St is Hawaiʻi Kai Shopping Center.

Eating

5BubbiesICE CREAM $

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Could it possibly get any better than a Bubbie’s mochi ice cream? We don't think so! There are so many great flavors to try that it will be hard to stop, especially after a day at the beach.

(%808-396-8722; www.bubbiesicecream.com; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; items $1.50-6; h10am-11pm; c)

5Fatboy'sHAWAIIAN $

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Slightly indelicately named, Fatboy's handle says it all. If you're into Hawaiian-style plate lunches, then Fatboy's at Koko Marina ticks all the boxes. The Garlic Chicken ($8.99) gets rave reviews, but it's the Fatboy's Bento ($7.99) that has sold over 500,000 plates through the Fatboy's O‘ahu stores. The full tables are testament to Fatboy's popularity.

(%808-394-2373; http://fatboyshawaii.com; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaole Hwy; h8am-8pm)

5Kona Brewing CompanyPUB $$

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On the docks of Koko Marina, this Big Island import is known for its microbrewed beers, especially the Longboard Lager, the Pipeline Porter and the Big Wave Golden Ale. There's live Hawaiian music some nights, and the brewpub’s island-style pupu (appetizers), wood-fired pizzas, burgers, seafood and salads are filling. But it's the beer that makes this place!

(%808-396-5662; www.konabrewingco.com; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; mains $12-28; h11am-10pm; c)

y

Top Tip

Kokonuts at Koko Marina

After a tough day at Hanauma Bay, do as President Obama has done (attested to by photos of Obama in a Kokonuts Shave Ice T-shirt!) and drop into Kokonuts Shave Ice & Snacks ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-396-8809; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaole Hwy; h10.30am-9pm) at Koko Marina. The acai and pitaya bowls are top notch, the shave ice really hits the spot, and the welcome is friendly. Good aloha here!

Understand

Hawaii Cuisine

The Island 'Diet'

Before human contact, the only indigenous edibles in Hawaii were ferns and ‘ohelo berries. The first Polynesians brought with them kalo (taro), ʻulu (breadfruit), ʻuala (sweet potato), maiʻa (banana), ko (sugarcane) and niu (coconut), plus chickens, pigs and dogs for meat – and they enjoyed an abundance of seafood. Western explorers dropped off cattle and horses, and later missionaries and settlers planted exotic fruits such as pineapple and guava. When the sugar industry peaked in the late 19th century, bringing waves of immigrant laborers from Asia and Europe, Hawaii’s cuisine developed a taste and identity all its own. It took plantation imports, including rice, shōyu (soy sauce), ginger and chili pepper, but never abandoned Native Hawaiian staples like kalua pork and poi (pounded taro root). Today, Hawaii’s food traditions are multiethnic. This tasty culinary mishmash has turned locals into adventurous and passionate eaters who are always hungry for that next knockout mouthful of ʻono kine grinds (good food).

Local Food

Cheap, filling and tasty, a local ‘mixed plate lunch’ includes two-scoop rice (almost always sticky white rice), a scoop of mayonnaise-laden macaroni salad and a hot, hearty main dish, such as Korean-style kalbi short ribs, Filipino pork adobo, batter-fried mochiko (Japanese rice-flour) chicken or furikake-encrusted mahimahi. Another local favorite is poke, which is bite-sized cubes of raw fish typically marinated in shōyu, oil, chili peppers, green onions and seaweed. On a hot day, nothing beats a mound of snowy shave ice, packed into a cup and drenched with sweet syrups in an eye-popping rainbow of hues.

Eating Out

Informal dining is Hawaii’s forte. For local food and rock-bottom prices, swing by retro drive-ins and diners with Formica tables, open from morning till night. Portion sizes can be gigantic, so feel free to split a meal or take home leftovers, like locals do. For gourmet cuisine by Hawaii’s star chefs, explore Honolulu and our recommendations. Open from pau hana (happy hour) until late, most bars serve tasty pupu (appetizers or small shared plates) like poke, shrimp tempura or edamame (fresh soybeans in the pod). The casual Hawaii dress code means T-shirts and flip-flops are ubiquitous, except at Honolulu’s most upscale restaurants and at Waikiki’s luxury resort hotels.

Shopping

7Island Treasures at the MarinaARTS, CRAFTS

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Near the waterfront at Koko Marina, this locally owned shop displays high-quality artisan handiwork such as koa wood carvings, etched glass, pottery and island paintings. Handmade soaps, lotions and jewelry make memorable gifts.

(%808-396-8827; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Understand

Watersports & Walking

Hawaiʻi Kai marina is flush with tour operators and watersports outfitters that can hook you up with jet packs, jet skis, banana and bumper boats, parasailing trips, wakeboarding, scuba dives, speed sailing – whatever will get your adrenaline pumping, they can hook you up, but it’ll cost you plenty.

If you're after something more sedate, there are some excellent walks in the area. The    Kuliʻouʻou Ridge Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ; https://hawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov) heads up a rough track into the mountains to the north of the Hawaiʻi Kai marina; the Koko Crater Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ) climbs straight up the side of volcanic Koko Crater; and the Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hawaiistateparks.org; off Makapuʻu Lighthouse Rd; h7am-7:45pm Apr-1st Mon in Sep, 7am-6:45pm 1st Tue in Sep-Mar) runs up a mile-long paved road to the red-roofed Makapuʻu Lighthouse.

Kailua & Kaneʻohe

On Oʻahu’s lushest, most verdant coast, pali (cliffs) are shrouded in mist as often as they are bathed in glorious sunshine. Tropical showers guarantee that everything glistens with a hundred shades of green, all dazzlingly set against turquoise bays and white-sand beaches. Repeat visitors to Oʻahu often make this quiet side of the island their adventure base camp.

LEIGH ANNE MEEKS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Sights in a Day

M Start your morning with breakfast at Morning Brew Coffee House & Bistro in Kailua before heading down for some sand time at Kailua Beach Park. Plenty of options for exercise here. Wander around to Kalapawai Market when you feel the need for refreshments.

R Take to the road for the afternoon. Visit Kailua's ancient temple at Ulupo Heiau State Monument before heading northwest to Kaneʻohe. Drop in to see the 'fish art' at Gyotaku by Naoki, then visit Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-In and Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden.

N Drive down to Waimanalo, check out the Akebono Statue, then take a stroll at Waimanalo Bay Beach Park to start the evening. When it's time for dinner, head down the road to Serg’s Mexican Kitchen Nalo. For a post-dinner drink, head back into town to Kailua Town Pub & Grill.

x  Best of Honolulu

Beaches

Waimanalo Bay Beach Park

Bellows Field Beach Park

Kailua Beach Park

Lanikai Beach

Hawaiiana Shopping

Naturally Hawaiian Gallery

Muʻumuʻu Heaven

Gyotaku by Naoki

Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden

Kawai Nui Marsh

Hamakua Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary

Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-In

Getting There

g Bus TheBus 57 runs over the Pali Hwy to Kailua, then south to Waimanalo and Sea Life Park. TheBus 22 and 23 run around the eastern coast to Sea Life Park.

u Car Drive the coast east along the Kanalianaʻole Hwy, round the eastern tip of the island; then drive back across the Pali Hwy to Honolulu.

1 Sights

1Waimanalo Bay Beach Park  G5

2Kailua Beach Park  F3

3Lanikai Beach  G3

4Bellows Field Beach Park  G4

5Waimanalo Beach Park  G5

6Ulupo Heiau State Monument  E3

7Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-In  B1

8Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden  C3

9Heʻeia Pier  B1

10Kawai Nui Marsh  E2

11Hamakua Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary  E3

12Akebono Statue  F5

5 Eating

13Tamura's Poke  E2

14Whole Foods  H2

15Rai Rai Ramen  F1

16Serg's Mexican Kitchen Nalo  G5

17Sweet Home Waimanalo  G5

18Tersty Treats  F5

19Kalapawai Cafe  F2

20Cinnamon's Restaurant  H1

21Tokuname Sushi Bar & Restaurant  G1

22Baci Bistro  H1

23Buzz's  F3

24Lanikai Juice  H2

6 Drinking

25Morning Brew Coffee House & Bistro  H2

26Kailua Town Pub & Grill  G2

7 Shopping

27Kailua Shopping Center  H2

28Madre Chocolates  F2

29Lily Lotus  H2

30East Honolulu Clothing Company  F5

Naturally Hawaiian Gallery  G5

Waimanalo Market Co-op  G5

Sights

1Waimanalo Bay Beach ParkBEACH

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A wide forest of ironwoods hides a broad sandy beach with little development in sight. This 75-acre county park has Waimanalo Bay’s biggest waves and is popular with board surfers and bodyboarders. Even if you’re not planning to hit the water, just take a walk along the cream-colored sand and try to imagine the feeling of old Hawaii. Countless weddings take place on this enchanting beach. There are lifeguards, campsites and restrooms. Entrance is opposite the Honolulu Polo Club.

(Kalanianaʻole Hwy (Hwy 72))

1Kailua Beach ParkBEACH

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A wide arc of sand drapes around the jewel-colored waters of Kailua Bay, with formidable volcanic headlands bookending either side and interesting little islands rising off shore. It’s ideal for long, leisurely walks, family outings and all kinds of aquatic activities. The beach has a gently sloping sandy bottom with usually calm waters; it’s good for swimming year-round, especially in the morning. The wind can blow any time but generally kicks up in the afternoon.

1Lanikai BeachBEACH

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Just southeast of Kailua, Lanikai is an exclusive residential neighborhood fronting a gorgeous stretch of powdery white sand overlooking two postcard-perfect islands, known locally as the Mokes. Today the beach is shrinking: nearly half the sand has washed away as a result of retaining walls built to protect the neighborhood’s multimillion-dollar mansions. There are 11 narrow public beach-access walkways off Mokulua Dr. No bathrooms, no lifeguards.

(off Mokolua Dr)

1Bellows Field Beach ParkBEACH

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With fine sand and a natural setting backed by ironwood trees in places, this is a great beach. The only problem is that the park is only open to civilians on weekends (and national holidays) because it fronts Bellows Air Force Station. The small shorebreak waves are good for beginning bodyboarders and board surfers. Lifeguards, showers, restrooms, drinking water and camping are all available onsite. The park entrance is just north of Waimanalo Bay Beach Park.

(Tinker Rd, off Kalanianaʻole Hwy (Hwy 72); hopen to public noon Fri-8am Mon, gates closed 8pm-6am)

1Waimanalo Beach ParkBEACH

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By the side of the roadway south of the main business area, this sloping strip of soft white sand has little puppy waves that are excellent for swimming. Manana Island and Makapuʻu Point are visible to the south. The facilities include a huge grassy picnic area, restrooms, ball-sports courts, a playground and a rather unappealing campground. Lifeguards are on watch here.

(Kalanianaʻole Hwy (Hwy 72))

1Ulupo Heiau State MonumentTEMPLE

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Rich in stream-fed agricultural land, abundant fishing grounds and protected canoe landings, Kailua was an ancient economic center that supported at least three temples. Ulupo, once bordered by 400 acres of cultivated fishponds and taro fields, is the only one left to visit.

(www.hawaiistateparks.org; hsunrise-sunset)

1Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-InTEMPLE

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So peaceful and park-like, it might take you a minute to realize Valley of the Temples is an interdenominational cemetery. Up at the base of the Koʻolau mountain’s verdant fluted cliffs sits Byōdō-In, a replica of a 900-year-old temple in Uji, Japan. The symmetry is a classic example of Japanese Heian architecture, with rich vermilion walls. The 3-ton brass bell is said to bring peace and good fortune to anyone who rings it.

(www.byodo-in.com; 47-200 Kahekili Hwy; temple admission adult/child under 13yr/senior $3/1/2; h9am-5pm)

Byōdō-in

ANNA GORIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

1Hoʻomaluhia Botanical GardenGARDENS

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Beneath the dramatic ridged cliffs of the Koʻolau Range, Oʻahu’s largest botanical garden encompasses 400 acres of trees and shrubs from around the world. Plants are arranged in six regionally themed areas accessible by car. Pick up a map at the small visitor center, located at the far end of Luluku Rd, over 1 mile mauka (inland) from the Kamehameha Hwy. Call ahead to register for free two-hour guided nature walks (10am Saturday and 1pm Sunday).

(%808-233-7323; www.honolulu.gov/parks/hbg.html; 45-680 Luluku Rd; h9am-4pm)

1Heʻeia PierHARBOR

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Just north of, and run in conjunction with, the state park is one of the Windward Coast’s only small boat harbors. It’s fun just to watch the comings and goings of local boat owners. On weekends they head out to the ‘sandbar’, a raised spit in the bay that becomes a mooring party place for people to kick back and relax.

1Kawai Nui MarshPARK

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One of Hawaii’s largest fresh-water marshes, Kawai Nui provides flood protection for the town, a habitat for endangered waterbirds, and is also one of the largest remaining fishponds used by ancient Hawaiians. You may see rare birds including the koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck), aeʻo (Hawaiian stilt), ʻalae kea (Hawaiian coot) and kolea (Pacific golden plover). Several local groups work to preserve and restore the marsh.

To access the area, park in the lot at the end of Kaha St, off Oneawa St, just over a mile northwest of Kailua Rd.

(www.kawainuimarsh.com; off Kaha St; h7am-7pm)

1Hamakua Marsh Wildlife SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

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Downstream from Kawai Nui Marsh, this tiny nature preserve provides more habitat for rare waterbirds, including the koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck), aeʻo (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), ʻalae keʻokeʻo (Hawaiian coot) and ʻalae ʻula (Hawaiian moorhen). Bird-watching is best after heavy rains. To keep these endangered birds wild, do not feed them. Park off Hamakua Dr, behind Down to Earth natural-foods store.

(http://hawaii.gov/dlnr/; off Hamakua Dr; hsunrise-sunset)

1Akebono StatueSTATUE

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Posed in fighting form, outside East Honolulu Clothing Company in Waimanalo Town Center, is one of Waimanolo's most famous sons. Chad Rowan was born here in 1969 and went on to make history by becoming the first non-Japanese-born sumo wrestler ever to reach yokozuna, the highest rank in sumo. At 6ft 8in (203cm) in height and a hefty 514lb (233kg) in weight, Akebono was a yokozuna for eight years, winning 11 championships before his retirement in 2001.

Understand

Kailua vs Kaneʻohe

A long, graceful bay protected by a coral reef is Kailua’s claim to fame. The nearly 4-mile-long shoreline stretch of ivory sand is made for strolling, and the weather and wave conditions can be just about perfect for swimming, kayaking, windsurfing and kitesurfing. None of this has gone unnoticed. Decades ago expatriates from the mainland bought up cottages crowded into the little neighborly lanes; the ones near the beachfront were often replaced with mega-houses. South along the shore lies the exclusive enclave of Lanikai, with million-dollar views – and mansions that may be valued at 10 times that much.

The state’s largest bay and reef-sheltered lagoon, Kaneʻohe Bay is largely silted and not great for swimming. The town itself is a Marine-base suburb, populated by chain restaurants and stores. It just doesn’t pack the eating and sleeping appeal of neighboring town Kailua, which is only 6 miles (15 minutes) south.

Understand

Waimanalo: Proudly Hawaiian

The proudly Hawaiian community of Waimanalo sprawls alongside Oʻahu’s longest beach, where the white sands stretch for miles, within view of offshore islands and a coral reef that keeps breaking waves at a comfortable distance. Small hillside farms in ‘Nalo, as it’s often called, grow many of the fresh leafy greens served in Honolulu’s top restaurants.

Although only a few miles southeast of Kailua, it feels a lot different. Not surprisingly, you’ll encounter many Hawaiian sovereignty activists here. Spray-painted political banners and signs, Hawaii’s state flag flown upside down (a sign of distress) and bumper stickers with anti-development slogans like ‘Keep the Country Country’ are seen everywhere here and further up the Windward Coast.

Eating

5Tamura’s PokeSEAFOOD $

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The wine is fine, but you're really here for the poke. Tucked into the back of Tamura's Fine Wines & Liquors is a deli with a top poke selection. Some say this is the best on the island!

(%808-254-2000; www.tamurasfinewine.com; 25 Kaneʻohe Bay Dr; per lb $7-15; h10:30am-7:45pm)

5Whole FoodsSUPERMARKET $

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Emphasizing organic, natural and locally sourced food, this supermarket offers deliciously healthy options. Grab a hot meal from the full-service deli – sandwiches, BBQ meats or tacos, anyone? – or graze the pizza, poke, sushi and salad bars. Island-made gelato is sold at the coffee kiosk up front. Come for happy-hour drinks and pupu at the supermarket's Windward Bar.

(%808-263-6800; http://wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/kailua; Kailua Town Center, 629 Kailua Rd; h7am-10pm; v)

5Rai Rai RamenJAPANESE $

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Look for the red-and-white banner written in kanji outside this brightly lit noodle shop. The menu of ramen styles ranges from Sapporo south to Hakata, all with rich broth and topped with tender pork, if you like. The gyōza (dumplings) are grilled or steamed bundles of heaven.

(%808-230-8208; 124 Oneawa St; mains $7-10; h11am-8:30pm Wed-Mon)

5Serg’s Mexican Kitchen NaloMEXICAN $

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Whether you're heading to the beach or are cruising on a round-island trip, Serg's offers an excellent roadside option for takeout or eat-in Mexican favorites. Try the fish tacos.

(%808-259-7374; 41-865 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; mains $6-11; h10am-8pm)

5Sweet Home WaimanaloHAWAIIAN $

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Taste local Waimanalo’s back-to-the-earth farm goodness from this family kitchen, where local chicken gets sauced with honey and citrus, and fresh corn tortillas wrap lime cream and grilled fish for tacos. Even the island standards get a twist: the kalua pork sandwich is topped with bok choy slaw.

(%808-259-5737; http://sweethomewaimanalo.com; 41-1025 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; mains $8-13; h9:30am-6.30pm Wed-Mon)

5Tersty TreatsSEAFOOD $

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This locally owned fish market lets you sample a dozen different flavors of freshly made poke, including old-school luau tastes like crab, squid and opihi (Hawaiian limpet). Keep filling up your beach cooler with deli faves like char siu pork and seared ahi belly.

(%808-259-3474; 41-1540 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; mains $6-12; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri & Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

5Kalapawai CafeBISTRO, DELI $$

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A gourmet, self-serve deli by day, after 5pm it transforms into an inviting, eclectic bistro. The eggplant bruschetta and other share dishes are excellent paired with a wine flight (a series of tasting-sized pours). But it’s hard to resist the creative, ingredient-driven mains. Dine streetside on the lanai or in the intimate candlelit dining room.

(%808-262-2354; www.kalapawaimarket.com/section/cafe; 750 Kailua Rd; dinner mains $14-24; h6am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat, from 7am Sun)

5Cinnamon's RestaurantBREAKFAST $

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Locals pack this family cafe decorated like Grandma’s house for the airy chiffon pancakes drowning in guava syrup, Portuguese sweet-bread French toast, eggs Benedict mahimahi, curried-chicken-and-papaya salad, and Hawaiian plate lunches. Waits are long on weekends; only the breakfast menu is available Sunday.

(%808-261-8724; www.cinnamons808.com; Kailua Sq, 315 Uluniu St; mains $7-13; h7am-2pm; c)

5Tokuname Sushi Bar & RestaurantJAPANESE $

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Surprisingly good sushi considering the suburban location in Kailua. Daily early-bird and late-night sushi power hour (9pm to 10pm) specials help keep the costs down, too.

(%808-262-8656; www.tokonamehawaii.com; 442 Uluniu St; sushi $5-10, dinner mains $10-16; h4-11pm)

5Baci BistroITALIAN $$

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Home-grown Italian cooking, where the owner knows most patrons by name. Don’t miss the white chocolate mascarpone cheesecake. The ravioli is made fresh daily.

(www.bacibistro.com; 30 Aulike St; mains lunch $10-15, dinner $15-25; h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm Sat & Sun)

5Buzz'sSTEAK $$$

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Classic mainlander expat territory; beachfront home-owning regulars here definitely get the best service. But the old-school kitschy island decor, surf-and-turf menu (complete with throwback salad bar) and proximity to the beach make it worth the stop. Book ahead, but still expect a wait.

(%808-261-4661; http://buzzsoriginalsteakhouse.com; 413 Kawailoa Rd; mains lunch $9-17, dinner $16-38; h11am-3pm & 4:30-9:30pm)

Hawaiian specialty ahi poke (cubed, marinated yellowfin or bigeye tuna)

DANIELLE LEAVELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Local Life

Kalapawai Market

A don’t-miss 1930s landmark market near Kailua Beach, Kalapawai Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kalapawaimarket.com; 306 S Kalaheo Ave; items $2-12; h6am-9pm) stocks picnic supplies and serves the same fancy, made-to-order sandwiches and market-fresh salads as its in-town sister. Good coffee, too. Get your supplies and wander around to the beach.

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Local Life

Thursday Farmers Market

An incredible spread of vendors sell not only fruit and veggies but a bevy of hot meals to take out: organic pizza, Portuguese stew, BBQ, Filipino dishes, Thai curries – you name it. The Thursday Farmers Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://hfbf.org/markets/markets/kailua; 609 Kailua Rd; h5-7:30pm Thu) is located in the parking lot by Longs Drugs.

Drinking

6Lanikai JuiceCAFE

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With fresh fruit grown by local farmers getting blended and poured into biodegradable cups, this juice bar makes addictive smoothies with names like Going Bananas and Lanikai Splash. In the morning, neighborhood yoga fanatics devour overflowing bowls of granola topped with acai berries, apple bananas and grated coconut at sunny sidewalk tables.

(%808-262-2383; www.lanikaijuice.com; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-7pm Sun)

6Morning Brew Coffee House & BistroCAFE

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Baristas at this pleasant cafe cup everything from chai to ‘Funky Monkey’ mochas with banana syrup. Swing by for an espresso or for bagel breakfasts, hot-pressed panini lunches and ahi tuna kebabs and wine at dinner.

(%808-262-7770; http://morningbrewhawaii.com; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; h6am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 7pm Sun & Mon; W)

6Kailua Town Pub & GrillPUB

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This casual Irish pub wannabe has tasty from-scratch Bloody Marys, sports on the TV and a friendly mixed-age crowd. Best burgers in town too, not to mention the fish and chips.

(%808-230-8444; http://kailuatownpub.com; 26 Hoʻolai St; h10am-2am Mon-Sat, 7am-2am Sun)

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Local Life

Gyotaku Fish Prints

You'll probably have seen Naoki's magnificent gyotaku (Japanese-style fish prints) all over Oʻahu in galleries, restaurants and bars, but there's nothing like watching him print up a freshly caught fish in his own studio, Gyotaku by Naoki ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1-866-496-8258; http://gyotaku.com; 46-020 Alaloa St, Unit D, Kaneʻohe), in Kaneʻohe. All the fish he prints are eaten later and the spectacular art on hand is for sale. Call ahead to check the studio is open because Naoki is often out fishing.

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Top Tip

Golf Anyone?

LPGA star Michelle Wie got her start here, and President Obama often swings through Olomana Golf Links ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-259-7926; www.pacificlinks.com/olomana; 41-1801 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; green fees $100) on his holidays. This 18-hole, par-72 course beneath the dramatic backdrop of the Koʻolau Range also has a driving range and restaurant.

Shopping

7Kailua Shopping CenterGIFTS, BOOKS

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Start your souvenir shopping downtown at this strip mall opposite Macy's department store. Pick up Hawaiiana books and beach reads at Bookends ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-261-1996; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun), tropically scented lotions and soaps at Lanikai Bath & Body (%808-262-3260; http://lanikaibathandbody.com; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 4pm Sun) or beachy home accents, tote bags and kids' toys at Sand People (%808-261-8878; www.sandpeople.com; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun).

(600 Kailua Rd)

7Madre ChocolateFOOD & DRINK

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Aficionados will be wowed by these award-winning Hawaiian-made boutique chocolates infused with island flavors – coconut and caramelized ginger, passion fruit, kiawe-smoked sea salt. Kailua is home, but there’s a new store in Honolulu's Chinatown.

(%808-377-6440; http://madrechocolate.com; 20-A Kainehe St; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat)

7Lily LotusCLOTHING

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Outfit for the yoga lifestyle with breathable and organic clothing from a Honolulu-local designer. You can also buy mats, jewelry and accessories by Lily and other makers.

(%808-888-3564; www.lilylotus.com; Suite 102, 609 Kailua Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

7East Honolulu Clothing CompanyCLOTHING, SOUVENIRS

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The striking, graphic one-color tropical prints on the clothing here are all designed and silk screened in-house. This company provides many local hula schools with their costumes. There's plenty of local artwork to peruse as well.

(www.doublepawswear.com; Waimanalo Town Shopping Center, 41-537 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; h9am-5pm)

7Naturally Hawaiian GalleryARTS, CRAFTS

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Since it shares space inside a converted gas station with Sweet Home Waimanalo, you can browse island artists’ paintings and handmade crafts while you wait for a kale smoothie. Naturalist Patrick Ching’s prints are especially good.

(www.patrickchingart.com; 41-1025 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; h9:30am-5:30pm)

7Waimanalo Market Co-opMARKET

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A local co-operative selling everything from art to kitchenware to fruit and vegetables. Next to Sweet Home Waimanalo.

(%808-690-0390; www.waimanalomarket.com; 41-1029 Kalanianaʻole Hwy; h9am-6pm Thu-Sun)

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Local Life

Recycling: Muʻumuʻu Heaven

This is recycling at its most fabulous: all the fun and funky, tropical-print dresses, skirts, tops and accessories are sewn using at least a little fabric from vintage muumuus at Muʻumuʻu Heaven ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-263-3366; www.muumuuheaven.com; 767 Kailua Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun). A second set of rooms contains equally colorful and eccentric homewares and original island art, some muumuu-inspired.

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The Best of

Honolulu

Historical Honolulu

Waikiki Wander

Beaches

Eating

Drinking & Entertainment

Museums

Hawaiiana Shopping

Festivals & Events

For Kids

Outdoor Activities

Hikes

Shopping Centers

Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

For Free

Waikiki Beach at night

M SWEET/GETTY IMAGES ©

2

Best Walks

Historical Honolulu

2The Walk

Honolulu's Historical District is so compact that it's easy to take your time and still inspect all the major sites in a day. There's a lot of intriguing history and art packed into a small area that is right next to Downtown's tall buildings and only a 10-minute walk away from Chinatown. Enjoy this walk at your leisure – it could take anything from one hour to an entire day.

Start ʻIolani Palace

Finish Mission Houses Museum

Length 1.5 miles; 2 hours

5Take a Break

Drop into the downstairs cafe at the Hawaiʻi State Art Museum or head down Richards Ave to Cafe Julia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-533-3334; http://cafejuliahawaii.com; 1040 Richards St; mains $10-28; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri. plus 4-9pm Wed-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-9pm Sun).

1 ʻIolani Palace

Start your walk at the impressive ʻIolani Palace. The palace was built under King David Kalakaua in 1882, and the grounds are open during daylight hours and are free of charge. Head mauka (towards the mountains) to find the Queen Lili‘uokalani Statue.

2 State Capitol

Built in the 1960s, Hawaii’s State Capitol takes conceptual postmodernism to a new level. If you want to take a self-guided tour, head to Room 415 and grab a brochure. Out front on Beretania St, check out the stylized Father Damien Statue.

State Capitol

ALLAN BAXTER/GETTY IMAGES ©

3 Washington Place

Over the road, Washington Place was formerly the governor’s official residence. This colonial-style mansion was built in 1846. Admire it from the street before crossing Richards St.

4 Hawaiʻi State Art Museum

With its vibrant, thought-provoking collections, the Hawaiʻi State Art Museum brings together traditional and contemporary art from Hawaii’s multiethnic communities in a grand 1928 Spanish Mission Revival–style building.

5 Aliʻiolani Hale

You'll know you're at the right place by the impressive Kamehameha the Great Statue out front. The Aliʻiolani Hale, the ‘House of Heavenly Kings’ was built in 1874 and today houses the Supreme Court of Hawai‘i. Take a look at the informative King Kamehameha V Judiciary History Center.

6 Kawaiahaʻo Church

Nicknamed ‘Westminster Abbey of the Pacific', Kawaiahaʻo Church was built in 1842 in New England Gothic–style of 14,000 coral slabs. Don't miss the tomb of King Lunalilo out front, or the small cemetery to the rear of the church, which is almost like a who’s who of local colonial history.

7 Mission Houses Museum

The Mission Houses Museum occupies the original headquarters of the Sandwich Islands mission, which forever changed the course of Hawaiian history. You’ll need to take a guided tour to peek inside any of the buildings.

2

Best Walks

Waikiki Wander

2The Walk

You're in for a bit of history and hedonism on this wander through Waikiki. History, as in a visit to the Hawaiʻi Army Museum and perusals of statues of Hawaiian legends, and hedonism, as in some time on the beach and strolling into two of Waikiki's oldest luxury hotels.

Start King David Kalakaua Statue

Finish Prince Kuhio Statue

Length 1.5 miles; two hours

5Take a Break

You'll be up for a break at the Royal Hawaiian Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.royalhawaiiancenter.com; 2201 Kalakaua Ave; h10am-10pm). There's a good food court on the 2nd floor of Bldg B, and if you're ready for a cold one, Five-0 Bar & Lounge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-0550; www.five-o-bar.com; 2nd fl, Bldg B, Royal Hawaiian Center, 2233 Kalakaua Ave; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun) is right there.

1 King David Kalakaua Statue

The King David Kalakaua statue greets visitors coming into Waikiki on the road named after the man himself. Born in 1836, King Kalakaua ruled Hawaii from 1874 until his death in 1891.

2 Hawaiʻi Army Museum

The Hawaiʻi Army Museum showcases military paraphernalia as it relates to Hawaii’s history, starting with shark-tooth clubs that Kamehameha the Great used to win control of the island more than two centuries ago.

3 Fort DeRussy Beach

Seldom crowded, Fort DeRussy Beach extends along the shore. Beach-hut concessionaires rent bodyboards, kayaks and snorkel sets. When you're ready, head towards Diamond Head along the beach.

Kayaks for rent, Fort DeRussy Beach

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

4 Royal Hawaiian Hotel

Head in through the Sheraton Waikiki to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. This gorgeously restored 1927 art-deco landmark is dubbed the ‘Pink Palace'. Carry on out to the Royal Hawaiian Center on Kalakaua Ave.

5 Moana Surfrider Hotel

Browse your way down Kalakaua Ave to the Moana Surfrider Hotel. Opened in 1901, this plantation-style inn was once the haunt of Hollywood movie stars, aristocrats and business tycoons.

6 Kahaloa & Ulukou Beaches

Waikiki’s busiest section of sand and surf, Kahaloa & Ulukou Beaches are great for sunbathing, swimming and people-watching. Consider a 1.5-hour cruise on the Na Hoku II Catamaran.

7 Duke Kahanamoku Statue

Just past the Waikiki Police Station and the Wizard Stones of Kapaemahu, admire the Duke Kahanamoku Statue. Duke is considered the 'father of modern surfing' and a Waikiki legend.

8 Prince Kuhio Statue

Admire the Prince Kuhio Statue. Kuhio was prince when the Kingdom of Hawaii was overthrown in 1893. He later became Hawaii’s congressional delegate for 10 consecutive terms. Have a swim at Kuhio Beach Park.

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Best

Beaches

Think of Hawaii, and you're instantly dreaming about golden sands backed by tropical palm trees, right? Well, the good news is that you'll be spoiled for choice! When it comes to coastal strands, swimming beaches come in a rainbow of hues and water temperatures are idyllic. You can usually find somewhere to swim, no matter the season.

MAKENA STOCK MEDIA / GETTY IMAGES ©

When & Where

Take a look at a map of O‘ahu. The eastern coast is called the Windward Coast, as, year-round, northeasterly Trade Winds make this the windy side of the island. The west coast, in the lee of the mountains, has less wind and is known as the Leeward Coast. In winter, ocean swells arrive from the north, meaning great surf on the North Shore and good swimming on the South Shore and Waikiki. In summer, it's the opposite. Ocean swells arrive from the south, bringing waves into Waikiki and turning the North Shore into a pond.

Facilities & The Law

Most of Hawaii's state and county beach parks have basic restrooms and outdoor cold-water showers; about half are patrolled by lifeguards. By law, all beaches are open to the public below the high-tide line. Nudity is legally prohibited on public beaches.

Don't Get Stung!

Jellyfish turn up eight to 10 days after the full moon each month; this is not a good time to be in the water. Check on www.to-hawaii.com/jellyfishcalendar.html for dates. If you do get stung – and it's painful! – talk to the lifeguard immediately.

Lanikai Beach

STEVEN GREAVES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best South Shore Beaches

Ala Moana Beach Park Broad, golden-sand beach opposite the Ala Moana shopping mall.

Kahanamoku Beach Fronting the Hilton Hawaiian Village at the western end of Waikiki.

Kahaloa & Ulukou Beaches Waikiki's busiest section of sand.

Kuhio Beach Park The heart of the action in Waikiki with Duke's statue and hula shows.

Kapi‘olani Beach Park Popular with local families in weekends.

Sans Souci Beach Park Locals call it Kaimana Beach and hang out here.

Hanauma Bay Legendary top snorkeling spot in an ancient volcanic crater.

Sandy Beach Park One for watching only unless you're a pro bodyboarder.

Best Windward Coast Beaches

Waimanalo Bay Beach Park A beauty with great waves for novice bodyboarders.

Bellows Field Beach Park Fine sand fronting Bellows Air Force Station.

Kailua Beach Park Ideal for leisurely walks and aquatic activities.

Lanikai Beach Gorgeous stretch of powdery white sand backed by millionaires' mansions.

Worth a Trip

On O‘ahu’s North Shore, but barely an hour's drive from Honolulu, are some of the world's best known surfing beaches. Things really pump in winter at Sunset Beach, Pipeline and Waimea Bay – the Triple Crown of Surfing (www.vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com) is a spectacular event from late November to early December.

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Best

Eating

Forget about pineapple upside-down cake and tiki-bar cocktails. ‘Dis is seriously broke da mout!’ That’s the ultimate compliment you’ll hear if you hang around locals long enough. It means something is so delicious it breaks the mouth. And that’s no exaggeration. People go crazy over food. So, be brave and eat everything in sight. It’s all ʻono grinds (good eats).

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Informal Dining

Informal dining is Hawaii’s forte. For local food and rock-bottom prices, swing by retro drive-ins and diners with Formica tables, open from morning till night. Portion sizes can be gigantic, so feel free to split a meal or take home leftovers, like locals do. The casual Hawaii dress code means T-shirts and flip-flops are ubiquitous, except at Honolulu’s most upscale restaurants and Waikiki’s luxury resort hotels.

Open from pau hana (happy hour) until late, most bars serve tasty pupu (appetizers or small shared plates) like poke, shrimp tempura or edamame (boiled soybeans in the pod).

Gourmet Cuisine

For gourmet cuisine by Hawaii’s star chefs, explore Honolulu. Hawaii’s cutting-edge foodie trends all start in the capital city. Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC) is hallmarked by Asian and Pacific Rim fusion tastes, yet remains upscale, usually found in beach-resort restaurants and celebrity chef's kitchens.

Self-Catering

For groceries, head to farmers markets and locally owned supermarkets. In Hawaii, most groceries are imported. The everyday price of food averages 30% more than on the US mainland, so you may not save much money by cooking your own meals.

Malasadas (Portugese fried doughnuts) from Leonard’s

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Local Food

Kakaʻako Kitchen Healthy minded plate lunches.

Rainbow Drive-In The best in local plate-lunches and dinners.

Sweet Home Waimanalo Farm goodness from a family kitchen.

Best Gourmet Cuisine

Alan Wong's Creative interpretations of Hawaiian Regional Cuisine.

Cafe Julia Elegant cuisine in an open-air setting.

Best Fusion

The Pig & The Lady One of the hottest new places on the island.

Uncle Bo's Pupu Bar & Grill Fusion pupu crafted with flair.

Best Sweets

Leonard’s Serving legendary malasadas since the 1950s.

Bubbies Nothing beats mochi ice-cream.

Worth a Trip

Walking through the door is like stepping into another era at Helena's Hawaiian Food. Even though long-time owner Helena Chock has passed away, her relatives still command the family kitchen, which opened in 1946. Most people order à la carte and Helena's is good!

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Best

Drinking & Entertainment

There is so much going on in Honolulu that it's hard to keep up. In general, locals party in the edgy art and nightlife scene of Chinatown, while tourists and those more in the mainstream stick close to Waikiki's golden sands and golden mile. There's not much in the way of nightlife in Kahala, Hawaiʻi Kai or Kailua.

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bars, Lounges & Nightclubs

Every self-respecting bar has a pupu menu to complement the liquid sustenance, and some bars are as famous for their appetizers as their good times atmosphere. A key term to know is pau hana (literally ‘stop work’), Hawaiian pidgin for ‘happy hour.’

Almost all of the hip bars and nightclubs have migrated to Chinatown.

Live Music

If Hawaiian music is what you crave, don’t look any further than Waikiki. But if it’s jazz, alt-rock and punk sounds you’re after, venture outside the tourist zone into Honolulu’s other neighborhoods.

Hawaii’s capital city is also home to a symphony orchestra, an opera company, ballet troupes, chamber orchestras and more, while more than a dozen community theater groups perform everything from David Mamet satires to Hawaiian pidgin fairy tales.

Hawaiian Music & Hula

Traditional and contemporary Hawaiian music calls all up and down the beach in Waikiki, from the rhythmic drums and ipu (gourds) accompanying hula dancers to mellow duos or trios playing slack key guitars and ukuleles and singing with leo kiʻekiʻe (male) or haʻi (female) high falsetto voices. Luau shows are Waikiki-based.

Hula performance, House Without a Key

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Best Bars, Lounges & Nightclubs

RumFire Lively bar at the Sheraton Waikiki.

Kona Brewing Company Hawaiian brews out in Hawaiʻi Kai.

Kailua Town Pub & Grill Relaxed atmosphere in Kailua.

Best Live Music

Dragon Upstairs Jazz and blues in Chinatown.

Republik The city's most intimate concert venue.

Jazz Minds Art & Café Top island talent in speakeasy ambience.

Best Hawaiian Music & Hula

House Without a Key Open-air lounge beneath old kiawe tree.

Mai Tai Bar The Royal Hawaiian's low-key bar.

ʻAha ʻAina Top luau and show in Waikiki.

Best Performing Arts

Hawaii Theater Major venue for dance, music and theater.

Kumu Kahua Theatre Dedicated to works by Hawaiian playwrights.

Diamond Head Theater Third-oldest running community theater in the US.

yTop Tip

For what’s going on this week, from live-music and DJ gigs to theater, movies and cultural events, check the Honolulu Star-Advertiser’s TGIF (www.honolulupulse.com) and the free Honolulu Weekly (http://honoluluweekly.com).

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Best

Museums

Your prime purpose for coming to O‘ahu may be the beach, but the city offers up some stunning museums and art museums that are well worth your time. Polynesian, Pearl Harbor and pioneering history is all on display, while the city's art museums are first class and may be the highlights of your trip.

MICK ELMORE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Museum

Bishop Museum One of the world's top Polynesian anthropological museums; like Hawaii’s version of the Smithsonian Institute.

ʻIolani Palace The Hawaiian royal palace restored to its former glory; no other place evokes a more poignant sense of Hawaii’s history.

WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument Pearl Harbor historic sites and museums; a solemn tribute to those who lost their lives at Pearl Harbor.

Mission Houses Museum The stories of the Protestant missionaries at the original headquarters of the Sandwich Islands mission.

Hawaiʻi Army Museum Showcases military paraphernalia relating to Hawaii.

Art Museums

Honolulu Museum of Art This exceptional fine-arts museum could be the biggest surprise of your trip to O'ahu.

Honolulu Museum of Art at Spalding House Meditative sculpture and art high above Honolulu; magnificent views.

Hawaiʻi State Art Museum Vibrant, thought-provoking collections; art from Hawaii’s multiethnic communities.

Shangri La Doris Duke's spectacular sanctuary and Islamic art out past Diamond Head.

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Hawaiiana Shopping

Something authentic from the islands rather than a head-bobbing dashboard hula doll from an ABC Store in Waikiki? The stores listed have the best in Hawaiiana, that special something representing the multicultural Hawaii that we know today – quality antiques, handicrafts, ukeleles, fabric, aloha shirts and more. Get something special from O'ahu to take home.

LINDA CHING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Native Books/Nā Mea Hawaii Hawaiian handicrafts, music, souvenirs and cultural classes.

Cindy's Lei Shoppe Crafted flower lei in Chinatown.

Kamaka Hawaii Hand-crafted ukeleles since 1916; original shapes.

Manuhealiʻi Bold and original island clothing designs.

Tin Can Mailman Thoughtfully collected Hawaiiana treasures and antiques in Chinatown.

Fabric Mart A gold mine of island prints and fabrics; buy your own cloth and make your own.

Bailey's Antiques & Aloha Shirts The ultimate in aloha shirt collections; thousands to choose from.

Na Lima Mili Hulu Noʻeau Makers of traditional feather lei.

Ukulele PuaPua Tops for ukeleles in Waikiki; free lessons daily.

Naturally Hawaiian Gallery Paintings and crafts in Waimanalo.

Muʻumuʻu Heaven Stylish modern designs using recycled cloth in Kailua.

Gyotaku by Naoki Fabulous fish prints in Kaneʻohe; watch them being made.

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Festivals & Events

Chinese New Year (http://chinatownhonolulu.org) Chinatown's lunar new year festivities in late January and early February.

Duke Kahanamoku Challenge Canoe and paddleboard races in late February.

Honolulu Festival (www.honolulufestival.com) Cultural performances and parade in mid-March.

‘I Love Kailua’ Town Party Community block party in Kaiua in April.

Waikiki Spam Jam (www.spamjamhawaii.com) Street festival to celebrate everyone's favorite canned-meat product, Spam, in late April.

Mele Mei (www.melemei.com) Month-long celebration of Hawaiian music in May.

Lantern Floating Hawaii Japanese floating-lantern ceremony on the last Monday in May.

Pan-Pacific Festival (www.pan-pacific-festival.com) A monster party celebrating everything Pacific and Asian in early June.

King Kamehameha Hula Competition Huge hula festival in late June.

Prince Lot Hula Festival Non-competitive hula event on the third Saturday in July.

Na Hula Festival Music and dance celebrations at Waikiki Shell in early August.

Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Festival (www.slackkeyfestival.com) At Kaiolani Park in mid-August.

Hawaiʻi Food & Wine Festival (www.hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com) Long weekend of wining and dining in early September.

Aloha Festivals (www.alohafestivals.com) Statewide cultural festivals in September.

Hawaii International Film Festival (www.hiff.org) Massive film festival in late October and early November.

King Kalakaua's Birthday Concert by the Royal Hawaiian Band on November 16.

Pearl Harbor Day Commemoration and Hawaiian Blessing at Pearl Harbor (December 7).

Honolulu Marathon (www.honolulumarathon.org) On the second Sunday of December.

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

yTop Tip

Waikiki loves to party year-round. Every Friday night, usually starting around 7:45pm, the Hilton Hawaiian Village shoots off a big ol’ fireworks show, visible from beachside Waikiki. A top spot to watch from is Magic Island in Ala Moana Beach Park.

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For Kids

The beach may well be enough to keep kids entertained for much of the day, but it pays to have a few more options up your sleeve. In particular, Waikiki is very family-friendly. Outdoor activities range call from the water to the mountains, while if the weather turns bad, head indoors to the treasure-trove that is Bishop Museum.

INTI ST. CLAIR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bishop Museum Children love the Science Adventure Center's multimedia exhibits and the planetarium.

Manoa Falls Trail Short, family-friendly hike to a waterfall.

Ala Moana Centertainment Movies at the Ala Moana Center.

Waikiki Aquarium Fun with tropical fish, including family events and educational programs.

Honolulu Zoo Petting zoo, 'twilight tours' and other options for kids.

Kuhio Beach Park Learn to surf or outrigger-canoe; great introduction to the water for toddlers.

Kahala Mall Movies and shopping in Kahala.

Diamond Head Family adventure! Climb Diamond Head.

Hanauma Bay World-class snorkeling spot for kids.

Waimanalo Bay Beach Park Top spot for swimming and learning to bodyboard.

yTop Tip

Two freebies in Waikiki that the kids will love are the year-round Friday night fireworks show (7.45pm), easily seen from Waikiki beaches, and the Torch Lighting & Hula Show at Kuhio Beach held Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday nights from 6.30pm (6pm in winter).

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Outdoor Activities

Honolulu is a dream destination for those keen to get outside. Here you can hike sandy beaches, or climb up into the mountains for a forest trek. Go for a simple snorkel or an all-day scuba dive. Island-wide opportunities for swimming, kayaking, stand-up paddling and more abound. Oh, and did we mention there’s some pretty decent surfing?

DONALD MIRALLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

In or on Water

If you want to get wet, here is a non-exhaustive list of options for your consideration: swimming, snorkeling, bodysurfing and bodyboarding, surfing, stand-up paddling, kayaking, kitesurfing and windsurfing, outrigger canoeing, diving, boating, fishing, whale-watching …. Shall we go on?

On the Land

Nature sits right outside Honolulu's door. About 25% of the island is protected natural areas and the lush mountainous interior is carved by hiking trails. Consider hiking, cycling and mountain biking, camping, horseback riding, running, golf and tennis.

In the Air

Think kitesurfing and paragliding, though Dillingham Airfield on the North Shore offers parachuting, gliding, ultralights and biplane rides – and is less than an hour's drive from Waikiki.

Best Water Activities

Hanauma Bay Snorkeling and diving paradise!

Kuhio Beach Park Learn to surf or outrigger-canoe!

Kailua Beach Park Paddle kayaks to offshore islands; learn to kitesurf.

Best Land Activities

Diamond Head Climb Waikiki's famous backdrop.

Manoa Falls Trail Hike into the lush mountainous interior.

Waimanalo Bay Beach Park Camp beside the waves.

yTop Tip

If camping is your thing, there are great options on Oʻahu. Advance permits required – check out Honolulu Department of Parks & Recreation (https://camping.honolulu.gov) and Hawaii Division of State Parks (www.hawaiistateparks.org).

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Hikes

Oʻahu's interior is lush, making for enjoyable hiking. Climb up high and you'll be rewarded with stupendous views, stick to the valleys and you'll love the tropical vegetation. You'll need sturdy footwear as it often gets muddy, but there are no snakes or poisonous plants, nor many wild animals. Use common sense when it comes to the changeable weather.

CHRISTINA LEASE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Geography

The island of Oʻahu is really two separate shield volcanoes that arose about two million years ago and formed two mountain ranges: Waiʻanae in the northwest and Koʻolau in the southeast. Oʻahu’s last gasp of volcanic activity occurred over 10,000 years ago and created the tuff cone of Diamond Head, Oʻahu’s most famous geographical landmark. The forces of erosion – wind, rain and waves – subsequently added more geologic character, cutting valleys, creating beaches and turning a mound of lava into paradise.

Diamond Head 1.6-mile return hike up stairs and through tunnels to amazing views.

Manoa Falls Trail Rewarding 1.6-mile round-trip trail to the falls.

Nu‘uanu Valley Lookout A 5.5-mile return hike to high atop the Koʻolau Range.

Kuliʻouʻou Ridge Trail Climbs to fine views above Hawaiʻi Kai; 5-mile round-trip.

Koko Crater Trail Steep climb straight up an extinct volcano.

Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail A 2-mile return trip on a paved road to the lighthouse; great views.

yTop Tip

A For more hiking trails island-wide, visit Na Ala Hele Hawaii Trail & Access System (http://hawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov).

A For group hikes, check the Honolulu Weekly (http://honoluluweekly.com) calendar, Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club (http://htmclub.org) and Sierra Club (www.hi.sierraclub.org/oahu).

A For guided walks, look at Hiking Hawaii (hikinghawaii808.com).

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Shopping Centers

If shopping rocks your world, there are plenty of opportunities everywhere you look in Honolulu. While most visitors do their shopping in Waikiki or at Ala Moana, there are a number of other shopping centers that may be worth your time, from the Ward complexes to suburban Kahala, Hawaiʻi Kai and Kailua.

ANN CECIL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Waikiki Shopping

On beachfront Kalakaua Ave, Waikiki’s shopping centers are mostly chock-full of brand-label stores you’d find in any US mainland city. A handful of only-in-Hawaii stores line Waikiki Beach Walk. For offbeat, vintage and antique, and one-of-a-kind shops, walk inland along Kuhio Ave and locals’ Kapahulu Ave.

Going & Coming

Waikiki's atmospheric old International Marketplace is gone, soon to be replaced by a massive new shopping center. Aloha Marketplace has been bought by Hawaii Pacific University and is being revitalized for retail, dining and student housing. And Sears is gone from the Ala Moana Center, where huge expansion is going on.

Ala Moana Center Largest open-air shopping center in the world.

Ward Warehouse Mini-mall has many one-of-a-kind island shops.

Royal Hawaiian Center Waikiki's biggest shopping center.

Kahala Mall Neighborhood mall with good mix of only-in-Hawaii shops.

Kailua Shopping Center A bit of everything in downtown Kailua.

yTop Tip

The mother-lode in terms of outlet stores, Waikele Premium Outlets, is west of Pearl Harbor. It's so popular that there is direct transport from Waikiki.

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Gardens, Sanctuaries & Cemeteries

There are ample opportunities to check out Oʻahu’s various ecosystems from the lush and wet interior vegetation such as at Lyon Arboretum in the Upper Manoa Valley, to the arid and the dry at Koko Crater Botanical Garden. Two well-known cemeteries make marvelous places for strolling, while the Kailua region has freshwater marshes that foster bird-watching opportunities.

NORTH LIGHT IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

Gardens

Lyon Arboretum A 200-acre arboretum run by the University of Hawaiʻi.

Foster Botanical Garden Honolulu's oldest botanical garden dating from the 1850s.

Koko Crater Botanical Garden Inside dry Koko Crater; spectacular plumeria.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden Beneath the dramatic cliffs of the Ko'olau Range.

Sanctuaries

Kawai Nui Marsh Ancient Hawaiian fishpond with paved recreational path.

Hamakua Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary Nature preserve with habitat for endangered waterbirds.

Cemeteries

National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific Better known as the 'Punchbowl', as atmospheric a cemetery as it gets.

Valley of the Temples & Byōdō-In Peaceful and park-like with a replica of a 900-year old Japanese temple.

yTop Tip

For more on the City and County of Honolulu's gardens, check out the Department of Parks and Recreation at (www.honolulu.gov/parks/hbg.html).

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For Free

A surprising number of sights and activities that you may enjoy on your trip to Honolulu will see you leaving your wallet in your pocket. Beaches are free – Hanauma Bay is a notable exception; hiking trails are free; some city-run botanical gardens are free; and public tennis courts are free, even if you're playing at night under lights!

MICHELE FALZONE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Museums

Hawaiʻi State Art Museum Art from Hawaii's multiethnic communities at this superb art museum.

Honolulu Museum of Art at First Hawaiian Center Mixed-media exhibits of modern works at the high-rise First Hawaiian Bank headquarters.

Hawaiʻi Army Museum Exhibits on the US military presence in Hawaii; entrance by donation.

WWII Connections

WWII Valor in the Pacific National Monument Visit the USSArizona Memorial and monument museums; other Pearl Harbor attractions charge.

National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific Admire the thought-provoking Punchbowl and views over Honolulu.

Historic Buildings

Aloha Tower Sweeping views from this 1926 landmark, once Honolulu's tallest building.

Moana Surfrider Hotel Take a tour of this iconic Waikiki hotel, opened in 1901.

Royal Hawaiian Hotel Free tours of Waikiki's historic 'Pink Palace'.

State Capitol Check out the State Capitol, unique in design among US state capitol buildings.

Gardens & Temples

Koko Crater Botanical Garden Hawaiian flora in dry volcanic crater.

Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden Oʻahu's largest botanical garden of 400 acres.

Ulupo Heiau State Monument Imposing platform temple of the ancients not far from Kailua.

yTop Tip

Don't miss the free Kuhio Beach Torch Lighting & Hula Show in Waikiki.

Survival Guide

Before You Go

When to Go

A High Season (mid-Dec–mid-Apr) High occupancy and prices; book rooms and activities far ahead; rainiest and coolest time of the year.

A Low Season (mid-Apr–May) Weather still temperate; airfares and lodging rates drop; fewer crowds.

A Shoulder Season (Jun–Aug) Dry, hot weather; visitor spike due to school summer vacation on mainland; prices up.

A Low Season (Sep–mid-Dec) Great weather; crowds and prices at their lowest; good airfares.

Book Your Stay

Top Tip Remember that 14% in taxes will be added to lodging rates that you see; many hotels and resorts add an 'amenity fee' per day that you are there. Check what is included when booking.

A Most of Honolulu's accommodations are in Waikiki.

A Advance bookings are highly recommended in high and shoulder seasons.

A You will pay more if you are beachfront; smaller hotels inland from the beach may be less than half the price.

A The terms 'ocean view' and 'partial ocean view', are used liberally – you may need a periscope to spot the waves. 'City', 'garden' or 'mountain' views may be euphemisms for overlooking the parking lot. Try to check what you're getting.

A Overnight parking fees may make a long-term rental car unattractive.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Author-recommendation reviews and online booking.

Vacation Rental by Owner (www.vrbo.com) Rent direct from owners.

Affordable Paradise (www.affordable-paradise.com) Private accommodations in Hawaii.

HomeAway (www.homeaway.com) Vacation rentals.

Captain Cook Resorts (www.captaincookresorts.com) Good vacation options in Waikiki.

Hawaii's Best Bed & Breakfast (www.bestbnb.com) Bed & Breakfasts, private inns and vacation rentals.

Best Budget

Hostelling International (HI) Waikiki (www.hostelsaloha.com) Tidy hostel just a few blocks from the beach.

Hostelling International (HI) Honolulu (www.hostelsaloha.com) Simple hostel up near UH.

Central Branch YMCA (www.ymcahonolulu.org) Basic rooms for unfussy budget travelers at the Y.

Waikiki Beachside Hostel (www.waikikibeachsidehostel.com) A good option at the Kapiʻolani Park end of Waikiki.

Royal Grove Hotel (www.royalgrovehotel.com) Candy-pink hotel with lots of returnees.

Waikiki Prince (www.waikikiprince.com) Cheery compact rooms at a good price.

Best Midrange

Aston at the Waikiki Banyan (www.astonwaikikibanyan.com) A good family option a block back from the beach.

Aqua Bamboo (www.aquabamboo.com) Refreshed boutique hotel on Kuhio Ave.

Aqua Aloha Surf Waikiki (www.alohasurfhotelwaikiki.com) Bargain hotel back next to Ala Wai Canal.

Castle Waikiki Grand (www.WaikikiGrandCondos.com) Small gay-friendly condo hotel opposite the zoo.

Waikiki Parc (www.waikikiparc.com) Hip hotel in the center of the action.

Hotel Renew (www.hotelrenew.com) Design-savvy, eco-friendly hotel half-block from the beach.

Best Top End

Royal Hawaiian (www.royal-hawaiian.com) The 'Pink Palace' was Waikiki's original luxury hotel.

Moana Surfrider (www.moana-surfrider.com) Waikiki's most historic hotel, opened in 1901.

Halekulani (www.halekulani.com) Modern sophistication at this beachfront hotel.

Sheraton Waikiki (www.sheraton-waikiki.com) High-rise waterfront hotel; great for families.

Lotus Honolulu (www.lotushonoluluhotel.com) Hip boutique hotel at Sans Souci beach.

Modern Honolulu (www.themodernhonolulu.com) Ocean-view rooms near Ala Wai Yacht Harbor.

Arriving in Honolulu

Top Tip For the best way to get to your accommodations, see p000.

Honolulu International Airport

The vast majority of flights into Hawaii land at Honolulu International Airport (HNL; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-836-6411; http://hawaii.gov/hnl; 300 Rodgers Blvd, Honolulu; W), about 6 miles northwest of downtown Honolulu and 9 miles northwest of Waikiki. Oʻahu’s only commercial airport, it’s a hub for domestic, international and inter-island flights.

Bus You can reach downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Center and Waikiki via TheBus 19 or 20. Buses run every 20 minutes from 6am to 11pm daily; the regular fare is $2.50. Luggage is restricted to what you can hold on your lap or stow under the seat (maximum size 22” x 14” x 9”).

Shuttle Roberts Hawaii (%808-441-7800; www.airportwaikikishuttle.com) operates 24-hour door-to-door shuttle buses to Waikiki’s hotels, departing every 20 to 60 minutes. Fares average $12 to $15 one way, or $20 to $30 round trip; surcharges apply for bicycles, surfboards, golf clubs and extra baggage. Reservations are helpful, but not always required for airport pickups. For return trips, reserve at least 48 hours in advance.

Taxi You can reach Waikiki by taxi (average cab fare $35 to $45) in 25 to 45 minutes.

Car The easiest driving route to Waikiki is via the Nimitz Hwy (Hwy 92), which becomes Ala Moana Blvd. For the fast lane, take the H-1 (Lunalilo) Fwy eastbound, then follow signs ‘To Waikiki'. The drive between the airport and Waikiki takes 25 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic.

Getting Around

Bicycle

Best for … exploring local neighborhoods.

It’s possible to cycle around Oʻahu, but consider taking TheBus to get beyond Honolulu metro area traffic. Hawaii’s Department of Transportation (http://hidot.hawaii.gov/highways/bike-map-oahu) publishes a Bike Oʻahu route map, available free online.

Bus

Best for … getting to Ala Moana, Downtown & Chinatown, Pearl Harbor and Hanauma Bay.

A Oʻahu’s public bus system, TheBus (%808-848-5555; www.thebus.org; adult fare $2.50, 4-day visitor pass $35; hinfoline 5:30am-10pm), is extensive but most hiking trails and some popular viewpoints are beyond its reach.

A Ala Moana Center is Honolulu’s central bus transfer point.

A Although buses are fast and frequent, you can’t set your watch by them. Especially in Waikiki, buses sometimes bottleneck, with one packed bus after another passing right by crowded bus stops.

A All buses are wheelchair-accessible and have front-loading racks that accommodate two bicycles at no extra charge – just let the driver know first.

Bus Fares & Passes

A The one-way adult fare is $2.50 (children aged six to 17 $1.25). Use coins or $1 bills; bus drivers don’t give change. One free transfer (two connections) is available from the driver.

A A $35 visitor pass valid for unlimited rides over four consecutive days is sold at Waikiki’s ubiquitous ABC Stores and TheBus Pass Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-848-4444; www.thebus.org; Kalihi Transit Center, cnr Middle St & Kamehameha Hwy; h7:30am-4pm Mon-Fri).

A A monthly bus pass ($60), valid for unlimited rides during a calendar month (not just any 30-day period), is sold at TheBus Pass Office, 7-Eleven convenience stores and Foodland supermarkets.

A Seniors (65 years and older) and anyone with a physical disability can buy a $10 discount ID card at TheBus Pass Office entitling them to pay $1 per one-way fare or $5/30 for a pass valid for unlimited rides during one calendar month/year.

Car, Motorcycle & Moped

Best for … exploring Oʻahu.

A All major car-rental agencies have rental cars either at Honolulu International Airport or about a mile outside the airport off Nimitz Hwy (airport courtesy shuttles available).

A Most major car-rental agencies have multiple branch locations in Waikiki. These branches can be less hassle (and less expensive, given steep overnight parking costs at Waikiki hotels) if you’re only renting a car for a day.

A In Waikiki, independent car-rental agencies may offer much lower rates, especially for one-day rentals and 4WD vehicles. They’re also more likely to rent to drivers under 25. Some also rent mopeds and motorcycles, and a few specialize in smart cars and hybrid vehicles.

A Surprisingly, a moped or motorcycle can be more expensive to rent than a car.

Taxi

Best for … late nights and groups sharing the cost.

A Taxis have meters and charge $3.10 at flagfall, plus $3.60 per mile and 50¢ per suitcase or backpack.

A They’re readily available at the airport, resort hotels and shopping centers. Otherwise, you’ll probably have to call for one.

Essential Information

Business Hours

Top Tip Some shops in Waikiki will be open much later than those in other areas.

Nonstandard hours are listed in reviews; standard business hours are as follows:

Banks 8:30am to 4pm Monday to Friday, some to 6pm Friday and 9am to noon or 1pm Saturday

Bars & clubs To midnight daily, some to 2am Thu-Sat

Businesses 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri; some post offices 9am-noon Sat

Restaurants Breakfast 6-10am, lunch 11:30am-2pm, dinner 5-9:30pm

Shops 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, some also noon-5pm Sun; major shopping centers keep extended hours

Electricity

Emergencies

Police 911

Fire 911

Ambulance 911

Money

A The unit of currency is the US dollar ($) which is divided into 100 cents (¢).

A Major banks, such as the Bank of Hawaii (www.boh.com) and First Hawaiian Bank (www.fhb.com), have extensive ATM networks throughout Oʻahu.

A Hawaii has a 4.17% state sales tax.

Tipping

For those from countries where tipping is not the norm, tipping is not optional in Hawaii; only withhold tips in cases of outrageously bad service. In Hawaii, tipping practices are the same as on the US mainland, roughly:

Airport and hotel porters $2 per bag, minimum of $5 per cart.

Bartenders 15% to 20% per round, minimum of $1 per drink.

Hotel maids $2 to $4 per night, left under the card provided; more if you’re messy.

Parking valets At least $2 when your keys are returned.

Restaurant servers 15% to 20%, unless a service charge is already on the bill.

Taxi drivers 15% of the metered fare, rounded up to the next dollar.

Public Holidays

On the following holidays, banks, schools and government offices (including post offices) close, and transportation and museums operate on a Sunday schedule. Holidays falling on a weekend are usually observed the following Monday.

New Year’s Day January 1

Martin Luther King Jr Day Third Monday in January

Presidents' Day Third Monday in February

Easter March or April

Prince Kuhio Day March 26

Memorial Day Last Monday in May

King Kamehameha Day June 11

Independence Day July 4

Statehood Day Third Friday in August

Labor Day First Monday in September

Columbus Day Second Monday in October

Veterans Day November 11

Thanksgiving Fourth Thursday in November

Christmas Day December 25

Safe Travel

In general, Hawaii is a safe place to visit. The Visitor Aloha Society of Hawaii (VASH; www.visitoralohasocietyofhawaii.org) provides non-monetary emergency aid to short-stay visitors who become the victims of accidents or crimes.

Top Tip Try not to leave anything of value in your car anytime you walk away from it. If you must, pack things well out of sight before pulling up to park.

Theft & Violence

A Oʻahu is notorious for thefts from parked cars, both locals’ and tourist rentals.

A Stay attuned to the vibe on any beaches at night, even in Waikiki.

Tsunami

A The tsunami warning system is tested on the first working day of every month at 11:45am for less than one minute. If you hear a tsunami warning siren at any other time, head for higher ground immediately.

Telephone

Mobile Phones

A Among US providers, Verizon has the most extensive network.

A International travelers need a multiband GSM phone in order to make calls in the USA.

A With an unlocked multiband phone, using a US prepaid rechargeable SIM card is usually cheaper than using your own network.

A SIM cards are available at any major telecommunications or electronics store.

Dialing Codes

A All Hawaii phone numbers consist of a three-digit area code (808) followed by a seven-digit local number.

A To call long-distance from one Hawaiian island to another, dial 1-808 + local number.

A Always dial 1 before toll-free numbers (800, 888 etc).

A To call Canada from Hawaii, dial 1 + area code + local number (international rates apply).

A For all other international calls, dial 011 + country code + area code + local number.

A Local directory assistance 411

A Long-distance directory assistance 1- (area code) -555-1212

A Toll-free directory assistance 1-800-555-1212

A Operator 0

Tourist Information

A In the arrivals area at the airport there are tourist information desks with helpful staff.

A Honolulu produces stacks of tourist brochures and magazines, which are packed with discount coupons, such as:

101 Things to Do (www.101thingstodo.com)

This Week (http://thisweekmagazines.com)

Spotlight on O‘ahu (www.spotlighthawaii.com)

A For pre-trip planning, browse the information-packed website of the Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com).

Travelers with Disabilities

A Bigger, newer hotels and resorts in Hawaii have elevators, TDD-capable phones and wheelchair-accessible rooms (reserve these well in advance).

A Traffic intersections have dropped curbs and audible crossing signals in cities and some towns, as well as all along Waikiki’s beachfront.

A Honolulu’s Department of Parks and Recreation (www.honolulu.gov/parks/dprbeachaccess.html) provides all-terrain beach mats and wheelchairs for free (call ahead to make arrangements) at several beaches, including Ala Moana, Hanauma Bay and Sans Souci.

A All public buses on Oʻahu are wheelchair-accessible and will ‘kneel’ if you’re unable to use the steps – just let the driver know that you need the lift or ramp.

A Access Aloha Travel (www.accessalohatravel.com) is a local travel agency that can help book wheelchair-accessible accommodations, rental vans and sightseeing tours.

A Disability & Communication Access Board (www.hawaii.gov/health/dcab/travel) offers online ‘Traveler Tips’ about airports, accessible transportation, sightseeing, and medical and other support services.

Visas

A Under the US Visa Waiver Program (VWP), visas are not required for citizens of 38 countries for stays of up to 90 days.

A Under the VWP you must have a return ticket (or onward ticket to any foreign destination) that is nonrefundable in the USA.

A All VWP travelers must register online at least 72 hours before arrival with the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/). Registration is valid for two years.

A Travelers who don’t qualify for the VWP must apply for a tourist visa. The process involves a personal interview and can take several weeks, so apply early.

Behind the Scenes

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Craig's Thanks

A huge thanks to my on-the-road assistant and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko! And cheers to Paul & Nezia, Phil & Liwei, and everyone else who helped us out.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, Michele Falzone/AWL ©

This Book

This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Honolulu was researched and written by Craig McLachlan. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Alexander Howard

Product Editors Elin Berglund, Elizabeth Jones

Senior Cartographers Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anthony Phelan

Book Designer Jennifer Mullins

Assisting Editors Judith Bamber, Jodie Martire

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Kate Chapman, Ryan Evans, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Diana Saengkham, Lyahna Spencer, Tracy Whitmey

Ebook thanks to Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Chris Tsismetzis, Glenn Van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer

Craig McLachlan

A Kiwi from the southern end of the Polynesian triangle, Craig is a regular in Honolulu and has an MBA from the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa. He loves nothing more than hanging out at Waimanalo Beach, eating poke and bodyboarding. Other Lonely Planet guidebooks he has worked on include Greek Islands, Japan and Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga. Craig considers himself a ‘freelance anything’ and past jobs have included pilot, karate instructor, tour leader, hiking guide and Japanese interpreter. Five books have been published about his various adventures – he once set the record for climbing Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains! For more on what Craig is up to, see www.craigmclachlan.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

1st edition - August 2015

ISBN 9781743609668

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

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Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.