Montreal & Quebec City

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Montreal

Montreal's Top 10

What's New

Need to Know

Top Itineraries

If You Like...

Month by Month

With Kids

Visiting Quebec City

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Explore

Neighborhoods at a Glance

Old Montreal

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Parc Jean-Drapeau

Sights

Eating

Entertainment

Sports & Activities

Downtown

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Quartier Latin & the Village

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Plateau Mont-Royal

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Southwest & Outer Montreal

Sights

Eating

Entertainment

Sports & Activities

Day Trips from Montreal

Trois-Rivieres

The Laurentians

The Eastern Townships

Sleeping

Quebec City

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Sleeping

Understand

Understand Montreal & Quebec City

Montreal Today

History

People & Culture

Music & the Arts

Architecture

Quebec City History & Culture

Survive

Transportation

Arriving in Montreal

Arriving in Quebec City

Getting Around Montreal & Quebec City

Tours

Directory AZ

Courses

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Emergency

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Medical Services

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Travelers with Disabilities

Visas

Language

Montreal & Quebec City Maps

Old Montreal

Downtown (West)

Downtown (East)

Quartier Latin & the Village

Plateau Mont-Royal

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Parc Jean-Drapeau

Table of Contents

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Special Features

Quebec City Top Five

Welcome to Montréal

A captivating blend of old and new, with stone-walled taverns, candlelit drinking dens, wild festivals and a cutting-edge arts scene.

Cuisine Capital

Blessed with one of the most exciting food scenes in North America, Montréal brims with temples dedicated to Kamouraska lamb, Arctic char and, of course, poutine (fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy). You’ll find irresistible patisseries, English pubs, 87-year-old Jewish delis and magnificent food markets reminiscent of Paris. There are hipster bars with tiny bowling alleys and innumerable cafes in which to while away a lazy afternoon. And there are late-night eateries where you can linger over wondrous combinations of food and drink that you'll find nowhere else on earth.

Festivals Galore

Toronto may be Canada’s economic capital, but Montréal remains the country’s cultural juggernaut, with some 250 theater and dance companies, more than 90 festivals and a fascinating medley of neighborhoods where artists, writers and musicians have helped cement the city’s reputation as a great arts center. The Festival International de Jazz de Montréal is the headline event, followed by parties dedicated to world cinema, comedy and gay pride. Québec City also dazzles, with its grand Winter Carnival, music-filled summer fests and colorful fireworks over the river.

Cities of Design

Montréal is a slice of old Europe in a pie of contemporary design. A day’s wander might take in the photogenic 18th-century facades of Old Montréal before a cycling tour of the lovely Canal de Lachine, or a wander through the glittering shops and restaurants of downtown before ending at the inviting terraced cafes of Plateau Mont-Royal. The architectural sweep of the city takes in a wealth of heritage churches such as the breathtaking Basilique Notre-Dame, as well as 20th-century icons like the Stade Olympique and Habitat 67. Not to be outshone, Québec City is a stunning jewel of old-world design, with cobblestone streets, 17th- and 18th-century stone houses and slender church spires, set on the cliffs above the St Lawrence.

Winter Wonderland

Montréal and Québec City do get some long, cold winters. But the natives have learned to make the best of them, cheering on local hockey legends Les Canadiens de Montréal, tobogganing down snowy slopes, ice skating beside the St Lawrence River and skiing at many fine resorts nearby. If you can’t bear the chill, just wander through Montréal's underground city and surface at the nearest pub.

Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde, MontréalALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Montréal

For more about our authors, see Click here.

By Regis St Louis, Author

I'm always struck by the unbridled creativity of this city. You see it in the magnificent inventions being stirred up in restaurant kitchens, in the barroom and on stage, and you even see it walking down the street with incredible urban art lurking in unexpected places. The dual French-English mix adds dynamism to the city as does its unique mash-up of European and North American culture. Most captivating of all are the people themselves. Montréalers embody joie de vivre. They eat well, throw great parties and are happy to share their city.

Montréal’s Top 10

Old Montréal

1The old city is where Montréal began and where its heart still lies. Stroll the old-world cobblestoned streets and grand plazas, and learn about local history in the museums. The neighborhood also has fine churches, 19th-century (and earlier) buildings juxtaposed with contemporary constructions, excellent shops and boutiques, numerous art galleries and cafes for your inner bohemian, and some of Montréal’s finest dining and lodging options. Old Montréal is like traveling in time without leaving the best of modernity behind.

1Old Montréal

Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)GREGORY OLSEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

2This ever-expanding gem in the heart of downtown Montréal is one of the best museums in the country. The striking Bourgie Pavilion is in a gorgeous 19th-century church adjacent to the original neoclassical building, while the modern Desmarais Pavilion across the street reflects its engagement with contemporary art. Among the museum's treasures is a beautifully displayed collection of Inuit art, along with some magnificent works by Québecois artists. Temporary exhibitions range from iconic paintings from Moorish Spain to Jean Paul Gaultier retrospectives.

1Downtown

Musée des Beaux-Arts de MontréalGUYLAIN DOYLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Musical Montréal

3Montréalers are justly proud of their passion for cultivating and appreciating good music. What else would you expect from a city that has turned out everything from Leonard Cohen to Arcade Fire? That’s part of the reason why thousands gather downtown every summer for the sizzling sounds of the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, the city’s main party. Free outdoor shows, star performers and a wide variety of genres make it one of the best reasons to visit.

3Music & the Arts

Musicians performing at the Festival International de Jazz de MontréalDAVID LEFRANC/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Basilique Notre-Dame

4The pride of Montréal and one of the most beautiful churches on the continent, the Basilique Notre-Dame is a 19th-century Gothic Revival masterpiece with spectacular craftsmanship. Originally it was a humble building dating from 1683; it was rebuilt in 1829. Everything, from the great bell (12 tons) in the western tower to the 1891 organ with its 7000 pipes and the stained-glass windows depicting the city’s history, speaks of the strong faith of the congregations of yesteryear.

1Old Montréal

Basilique Notre-DameJOSE FUSTE RAGA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Parc du Mont-Royal

5The lungs of Montréal, Parc du Mont-Royal is the large green space covering much of Mont-Royal, the mountain at the heart of the city. Montréalers grow up spending their winters sledding down its slopes and skating on its ponds. The rest of the year is perfect for looking out over the city from its belvederes, jogging, biking or simply walking its forested paths. An abundance of fauna and flora make it a big draw for nature lovers.

1Plateau Mont-Royal

Parc du Mont-RoyalJOANNE LEVESQUE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Rue St-Denis

6Few parts of Montréal feel as bohemian and laid-back as Rue St-Denis in the Quartier Latin. On the blocks below Rue Sherbrooke Est, students from the nearby Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM) sip beer in brasseries, artists hobnob in cafes and everyone else seems to just watch the world go by. No wonder it was at the heart of the student protest movement that erupted in the city in recent years. It’s also home to some excellent theaters, cinemas, cafes and restaurants.

1Quartier Latin & the Village

Rue St-Denis, MontréalIAN DAGNALL / ALAMY ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Canal de Lachine

7This old industrial waterway that powered Canada’s industrialization has been cleaned, spruced up and made ready to welcome thousands of bikers, joggers and amateur sailors every summer. The best way to enjoy it is to rent a bike and pedal from Old Montréal to the Marché Atwater, where you can browse farm produce, artisanal cheeses and freshly baked goods. The canal’s banks are a perfect spot for picnicking with your purchases.

1Southwest & Outer Montréal

Canal de LachineMAXIM BULAT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Old Port

8There’s always something fun happening at Montréal’s Old Port, whatever your pleasure. Take in a circus at Cirque du Soleil, bring the kids to a science museum, hop on a boat cruise to the Lachine Rapids, pamper yourself in a floating spa or simply park yourself in a cafe along Rue de la Commune and do some serious people-watching. There's even a Plage de l’Horloge, an artificial beach on the riverfront where you can dig your heels in the sand and gaze out over the mighty St Lawrence (but no swimming).

1Old Montréal

Plage De l’HorlogePERRY MASTROVITO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Parc Jean-Drapeau

9You might not have a ticket to the Grand Prix du Canada here, but this pair of island parks in the St Lawrence River is a great spot to get a view of the city and plenty of fresh air. The Musée Stewart is a rare, authentic British garrison that tells the history of the city. After walking the forested paths, you can go thrill-seeking at the La Ronde amusement park or, for adults, the Casino de Montréal. Just save enough for the metro ride back.

1Parc Jean-Drapeau

Biosphère, designed by Buckminster FullerPHILIPPE RENAULT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Top 10

Marché Jean-Talon

10Where to begin? This farmers market in Little Italy has hundreds of vendors hawking fresh vegetables, fruit, seafood and baked goods, as well as seemingly endless restaurants and shops selling everything from Québec jams and wine to maple products, goat's cheese, honey, microbrewed beers, crepes, European and Middle Eastern pastries, and artisanal deli meats. Nearby restaurants such as Kitchen Galerie take full advantage, to the delight of foodies.

1Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Marché Jean-TalonGUYLAIN DOYLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

What’s New

Île Ste-Hélène

There's much afoot on this island park facing Old Montréal. In preparation for the 50th anniversary of the 1967 Expo, Île Ste-Hélène will get a makeover, with a new riverside promenade and new concert space for its ample summer festival calendar. The Biosphère, inside Fuller's iconic geodesic dome, is also getting a makeover, as is the high-end restaurant on the island, Hélène de Champlain.

New attractions on Île Notre-Dame

Part of Parc Jean-Drapeau, this island now has wakeboarding on the lake and stand-up paddleboarding (plus yoga). In winter, the beach chalet becomes a cabane à sucre (sugar shack).

An ever-expanding collection

One of the city's best museums keeps getting better. Work is underway on yet another wing (its fifth) on the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal.

Cocktail craze

Montréalers have embraced high-end artfully prepared cocktails, and there are loads of new bars to sample the goods, such as Le Mal Necessaire.

Microbreweries

A great craft beer is never far from hand, owing to a wealth of new microbreweries and beer bars that have opened. A new favorite is Isle de Garde.

Expanded Galleries

One of Old Montréal's top museums (the Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-Callière) has a new building next door where it shows temporary exhibitions – often some of the best in town.

Repurposing the fur district

Several new hot spots have reclaimed buildings of the former fur district. Head to Café Parvis for delicious lunches, and Furco next door for drinks after hours.

New Music Festival

Montréal will host yet another electronic-dance-music festival called AIM. It's at Parc Carrillon, around an hour from the city, and you can camp (www.twitter.com/aim_montreal).

Casino de Montréal

The city's casino is looking very stylish indeed following a four-year, $300-million renovation. In addition to bold architecture, it has new restaurants and bars, plus a new lineup of live music.

Le Vin Papillon

The folks behind Joe Beef have opened this stellar wine and small-plates restaurant, and it should be on the list of any self-respecting foodie who comes to town.

Need to Know

Currency

Canadian dollar ($)

Language

French and English

Visas

Not required for citizens of Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom and the United States, among others. See www.cic.gc.ca.

Money

ATMs widespread. Major credit cards widely accepted.

Cell Phones

Buy local prepaid SIM cards for use with international phones.

Time

Eastern Time (GMT/UTC minus five hours, minus four hours March to November).

Tourist Information

Centre Infotouriste provides maps, info about attractions and booking services (hotels, car hire, tours).

When to Go

Despite the high humidity, summer is the best season, followed by spring then fall. Winter can be spectacular if you’re up to the cold temperatures.

Daily Costs

Budget: less than $100

ADorm bed: $22-32

ASupermarkets, markets, fast-food restaurants: $30

ABixi bike rental, 24 hours: $5

AMovie tickets: $12

Midrange: $100–$200

ADouble room in a B&B: $130-180

ATwo-course dinner with glass of wine: $60

ATheater ticket: $40

Top End: more than $200

ABoutique hotel room: $200-350

ATable d’hôte (fixed-price, multicourse meal) in deluxe restaurant with wine: $80

ACanadiens de Montréal hockey ticket: $200

Advance Planning

Two months before Book tickets for hockey games and major festivals such as the Festivale International de Jazz de Montréal, and make reservations for top restaurants.

Three weeks before Scan web listings for festivals and events; book hotels and rental bikes. Be sure to have adequate clothing for winter.

A few days before Check the weather at www.weatheroffice.gc.ca.

Useful Websites

The Main MTL (www.themainmtl.com) Insider take on the latest in dining, drinking, music and the arts.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/montreal) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

Ville de Montréal (www.ville.montreal.qc.ca) Useful travel info and events calendar from the city’s official website.

Montreal Gazette (www.montrealgazette.com) Montréal's English-language newspaper covers everything from politics to sports.

Arriving in Montréal

For much more on arrivals see Click here

Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport Buses and taxis run to downtown Montréal around the clock; buses $10, taxis $40. It takes 45 minutes to an hour to get downtown by bus, and around 30 minutes by taxi.

Gare Centrale Trains pulling in to Montréal arrive at this downtown terminus, within easy reach of many parts of the city by taxi.

Gare d'Autocars de Montréal Most long-distance buses arrive at this station in the Quartier Latin, with handy connections to the Berri-UQAM metro station.

Getting Around

For much more on getting around see Click here

ABus Buses cover central parts of the island with well-marked routes. They run from 5am to 1am, with separate night services.

AMetro There are four lines, blue trains and unique rubber wheels. Trains run approximately from 5am to midnight and until 1:30am on Friday and Saturday nights.

ABicycle The city’s popular Bixi bike-rental system has more than 450 stations, covering central and outlying areas. There is an extensive network of bike paths too.

ABoat Good for day trips to Parc Jean-Drapeau and cruises on the St Lawrence River.

AWalking Subway stations are fairly close in the city centre; save a little cash by walking if you only need to go one stop.

Sleeping

For much more on sleeping see Click here

Finding a place to bunk in Montréal is easy thanks to the many hotels that have opened in the past decade. Summer is peak season, so if you’re traveling to see a festival, book well in advance.

Boutique hotels in historic places such as Old Montréal have some of the most sought after rooms, but you can also experience culture at B&Bs housed in heritage buildings in other neighborhoods.

Accommodations range from cheap, no-frills hostels and generic hotels to charming B&Bs, boutique hotels and deluxe suites.

Useful Websites

ATourisme Montréal (www.tourisme-montreal.org) Excellent tourism website.

ALonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/canada/montreal/hotels) Dozens of author-reviewed hotels, hostels and guesthouses.

AExperience Old Montréal (www.experienceoldmontreal.com) The Antonopoulos Group’s collection of hotels, bars and restaurants in the old city.

Top Itineraries

Day One

Old Montréal

MTake the subway to Place-d’Armes and make a beeline for the stunning Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cobblestoned streets of the old town, winding your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours. Stroll up Place Jacques-Cartier with its many buskers and artists, into the Château Ramezay museum.

5Lunch Grab a tasty baguette sandwich at Titanic.

Old Montréal

RDeepen your understanding of the city’s history at the excellent Musée d’Archéologie et d'histoire Pointe-à-Callière before crossing Pl d’Youville to Fonderie Darling for its innovative contemporary-art installations.

5Dinner Garde-Manger for a fun crowd, and tasty cocktails and dishes.

Old Montréal

NIf you’re not dining in style, grab a quick pizza at Bevo before catching a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. You might also consider watching the sky turn various colors at sunset while downing an old-fashioned on the rooftop patio at Terrasse Nelligan. Party the night away at scenester magnet Velvet or Philémon, which will rock you until 3am.

Top Itineraries

Day Two

Downtown

MStart your tour of downtown Montréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal for its excellent collection of Old Masters and contemporary art. Architecture aficionados will dig the contemporary Desmarais pavilion as well as the Claire & Marc Bourgie Pavilion in an 1890s church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, home to tiny shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University.

5Lunch Vegetarian-friendly Lola Rosa has great food and ambience.

Canal de Lachine

RHop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx and walk down to Marché Atwater for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a cruise on the canal.

5Dinner For incredible Québecois fare, try Joe Beef if you can get in.

Downtown

NUpstairs has nightly jazz performances, or better yet the jazz festival will be rocking the blocks around Place des Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab a postdinner glass at the Dominion Square Tavern or hear some beats at underground Bleury Bar à Vinyle.

Top Itineraries

Day Three

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

MMake for Little Italy to explore the mouthwatering Marché Jean-Talon. Stroll down to the local church, the Église Madonna della Difesa, and be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. Browse the old-world shops along Blvd St-Laurent before hopping a bus (or Bixi) to Mile End.

5Lunch Enjoy market-fresh fare at the charming little Arts Cafe.

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

RRamble along St-Viateur and Bernard, visiting Drawn & Quarterly for its whimsical book selections, hipster curiosities at Monastiraki and artfully recycled objects at Galerie CO. Before dinner, grab a taxi to Parc du Mont-Royal for a panoramic view of the city from Kondiaronk lookout.

5Dinner Inventive Vietnamese fusion and drinks at Hà.

Plateau Mont-Royal

NHead down to Casa del Popolo and see what the hipster kids are cheering for on stage. Afterward, take a late-night bar crawl down Blvd St-Laurent. Stop in Big in Japan for elegance and high-end libations, Majestique for oysters and cocktails, and Apt 200 for a loft-like house-party vibe.

Top Itineraries

Day Four

Parc Jean-Drapeau

MA river runs through it, dividing Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles. Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of remarkable buildings from yesteryear. Learn about the environment and our impact on it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckminster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo '67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is the site of an authentic British garrison.

5Lunch Snacks along the forested paths.

Parc Jean-Drapeau

RWander the island’s walking paths, taking in the outdoor sculptures before kicking up your heels at Piknic Électronik, a summertime electronica dance fest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but decidedly slower views of the city from 45m up on the Ferris wheel.

5Dinner High-end fare at a new restaurant in the Casino de Montréal.

Parc Jean-Drapeau

NThe island is a perfect spot to watch the sky explode with fireworks during L'International des Feux Loto Québec. If not, the Casino de Montréal has everything you need for a good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat '67, the block-city left over from Expo '67. The winking lights of the Old Port will be beckoning you back across the water.

If You Like…

Historic Buildings

Basilique Notre-Dame Dating from the 19th century, this Gothic Revival masterpiece simply dazzles.

Château Ramezay A well-preserved 18th-century governors’ home.

Hôtel de Ville Rebuilt in 1926, the city’s gorgeous city hall displays local art by the legislative chamber.

Bank of Montreal Canada’s oldest bank has a stunning marble interior and vaulted ceiling.

Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice The clock on this 1680s seminary was a present from Louis XIV.

Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde This 19th-century landmark was a symbol of Catholic power in Protestant Montréal.

Live Music

Place des Arts There's always something going on amid the plaza's high-tech concert halls.

L’Astral This jazz venue in a century-old building is a favorite for the jazz festival.

Casa del Popolo From folk guitarists to spoken-word poets, Casa does artsy like nowhere else.

Metropolis From raves to David Bowie, this former cinema has seen it all and keeps delivering.

Dièse Onze A charming basement jazz den with brassy beats and decent snacks.

Cafe Culture

Le Cagibi Café Bohemian spot for coffee or vegetarian fare by day, drinks and arts events by night.

Caffè Italia This very unpretentious coffee shop in Little Italy really feels like the old country.

Pikolo Espresso Bar The signature drink in this stylish space is the Pikolo ristretto, which goes down smooth.

Olive + Gourmando With such yummy sandwiches, this bakery-cafe in the heart of Old Montréal is easy to love.

Flocon Espresso Tiny joint where coffee nerds high-five over some of the city's best espressos.

Café Olimpico A fun, buzzing crowd with great people-watching potential in Mile End.

Carré St-Louis Montréal's prettiest little square has a tiny cafe with outdoor tables.

Quaint Backstreets

Mile End Explore streets that are home to bagel bakeries, funky cafes and bars, and hipster hangouts in this multiethnic district.

Plateau Mont-Royal From Ave du Mont-Royal to Carré St-Louis, the Plateau is the city’s bohemian quarter, with artsy cafes, plentiful parks and unusual boutiques.

Westmount The national historic site is awash in Victorian homes, leafy parks and its heritage city hall.

Old Montréal Head down shop- and restaurant-lined Rue St-Paul, then lose yourself in the quiet backstreets.

Rue St-Paul, Old MontréalDAVID MADISON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Museums

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal A showcase of old masters and contemporary artists.

Musée d’Art Contemporain A weighty collection of artworks from Québecois legends.

Musée Stewart This old British garrison displays relics from Canada’s past.

Château Ramezay A home of French governors and one of the finest examples from the ancient regime.

Musée d’Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-Callière An excellent history museum built on the spot where European settlers put up their first camp.

Fur Trade at Lachine National Historic Site This 1803 stone depot in Lachine tells the story of the fur trade in Canada.

Green Spaces

Parc du Mont-Royal The city's main mountain, with wintertime skating and sledding, and biking and jogging in summer.

Parc La Fontaine A leafy park with a chalet restaurant overlooking a lake (and outdoor rink) in winter.

Parc des Rapides Watch the rushing rapids from a picturesque spot on the St Lawrence River.

Canal de Lachine This once industrial canal has been transformed into a 14km-long cycling and pedestrian pathway.

Jardin Botanique Stop to smell the flowers in these lush 75-hectare gardens.

Plage des Îles This lovely if artificial beach makes a great destination on a hot day.

City Cycling

Canal de Lachine Follow the peaceful waterway from Old Montréal out to the Lac St-Louis.

Boulevard de Maisonneuve Much of this one-way street cutting through downtown has its own bike lanes.

Parc Jean-Drapeau ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcjeandrapeau.com) These two park islands have winding trails for cycling and walking.

Parc du Mont-Royal It’s a slog to pedal up here, but the wooded trails make it well worth the effort.

Bixi You'll get places fast by hopping around the city on these bike shares.

Pampering

Bota Bota A delightful spa perched on the water near Old Montréal.

Strøm Nordic Spa This beautiful Scandinavian-style spa sits on an island a few kilometres from downtown.

Studio Bliss Get active in a yoga class, then treat yourself to a massage.

Aveda Montréal Lifestyle Salon Spa & Academy Offers a full range of treatments, including an indulgent Rejuvenating Experience.

Ovarium Experience weightlessness in the relaxing salt-filled flotation baths.

Art

Musée d’Art Contemporain Québec’s finest contemporary artworks, in a sleek downtown museum.

Fonderie Darling Cutting-edge installations in a hidden corner of Old Montréal.

PHI Center Arts center with evocative exhibitions, plus frequent film screenings.

Galerie Simon Blais This prestigious gallery in Mile End features some of Québec’s finest contemporary art.

DHC Art Features mind-bending contemporary works.

Aquatic Adventures

Saute-Moutons Go for a high-speed cruise on the waterfront on these thrilling jet boats.

Stand-Up Paddleboards Get a workout paddling around the lake on Île Notre-Dame.

Parc de La Rivière-des-Mille-Îles Take a self-guided canoe trip among 10 islands near Laval.

Rafting Montréal Head off on a white-water paddle down the Lachine Rapids.

H2O Adventures Rents kayaks and pedal boats for a leisurely glide on the peaceful Canal de Lachine.

Panoramic Views

Terrasse Place d’Armes Come summertime, this rooftop bar is the best place for a sundowner.

Kondiaronk Lookout Magical views over the city from atop Mont-Royal.

Île Ste-Hélène Fantastic city and waterfront views from an island just one metro stop from Old Montréal.

Olympic Stadium Spectacular views from the inclined tower (and from the cable-car ride going up).

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours This 18th-century sailors’ chapel commands splendid harbor views.

Oratoire St-Joseph You'll earn those memorable views after climbing the 300 steps (though some prefer the lift).

Unusual Sights

Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle Time your visit to see the ring of fire on this striking fountain and sculpture.

Gare Windsor Look for ghosts of the past in this hauntingly empty former railway concourse.

Illuminated Crowd This sidewalk sculpture offers a rather dark view of humanity.

Gibeau Orange Julep The great orange ball atop this fast-food joint has become a city landmark.

Underground City Lose yourself among the interconnected malls, metro links and passageways.

Croix du Mont-Royal Yet another city icon is this tall metal cross that you can hike to in Parc du Mont-Royal.

Month by Month

Top Events

Nuit Blanche, February

Grand Prix du Canada, June

L’International des Feux Loto-Québec, June

Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, July

Montréal World Film Festival, August

January

Montréal kicks off the year with a bang, with New Year’s Eve parties at restaurants and clubs throughout the city. Temperatures start to really plummet and ski season begins.

zFête des Neiges

Montréal’s Snow Festival features ice-sculpting contests, dogsled races, snow games and costumed characters such as mascot polar bear Boule de Neige. It is held over four weekends in late January and early February. A great place for sledding, ice-skating, zip-lining, curling and skiing (www.parcjeandrapeau.com).

zIgloofest

If you love electronic music don't let the -20˚C temperatures deter you from this fun outdoor dance party and winter fest at the Old Port. It's held over four weekends from mid-January to early February. Dress warm! (www.igloofest.ca)

February

Amid the deep freeze, snow piles up and Montréalers do their best to beat the blahs by cheering on the Canadiens hockey club. Temperatures can fall below -20˚C.

zMontréal en Lumière

Created to help shake off the late-winter doldrums, Montréal en Lumière is a kind of wintry Mardi Gras with concerts, exhibitions and fireworks. Place des Arts becomes an illuminated fairground with a Ferris wheel and zip line. Most events happen downtown (www.montrealenlumiere.com).

Montréal en Lumière’s Ferris wheelTONY TREMBLAY/GETTY IMAGES ©

zNuit Blanche

On a Saturday night in late February, Montréal becomes one giant performance space, with all-night performances, film screenings, art installations and concerts. Hundreds of venues participate. The biggest challenge is choosing where to go (www.montrealenlumiere.com/nuit-blanche).

April

One sign that winter is over is when the Bixi rental bicycles are deployed and bike lanes are reinstated. Spring is here.

3Blue Metropolis Montréal International Literary Festival

This festival brings together 200-plus writers from all over the globe for five days of literary events in English, French, Spanish and other languages in late April. There are even events for kids (www.bluemetropolis.org).

May

With the snow gone, rainy, windy weather sets in but doesn’t last. A few weeks of mild weather preface rising temperatures, which can soon reach the high 20°Cs.

3Piknic Électronik

On Sundays from mid-May to mid-September, you can enjoy outdoor revelry out on Parc Jean-Drapeau. House-spinning DJs work the decks on two stages, while young friends gather and dance on the grass (www.piknicelectronik.com).

1Biennale de Montréal

One of Montréal’s most creative events showcases the best and the brashest of the Canadian art scene, including conferences and seminars on contemporary art. It happens on even-numbered years (www.biennalemontreal.org).

2Tour de l’Île

Also known as the Montréal Bikefest, the Tour de l’Île (www.velo.qc.ca) draws 30,000 cycling enthusiasts for a 50km spin around the island of Montréal and a big party in the city afterward (there's also a 28km route). It’s staged in late May or early June, with preregistration required.

June

Amid this hot, festival-packed month, Québecers celebrate their ‘national’ day, the Fête Nationale du Québec, on June 24. Everyone is out for a drink, some good food and fireworks.

6Montréal Beer Festival

Here’s your chance to quaff brews from around the globe over five days in mid June. It's held inside the Palais des Congrès in downtown (www.festivalmondialbiere.qc.ca).

2Grand Prix du Canada

Formula 1 is going strong in Montréal. It’s usually held in early or mid-June on the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve. Don’t forget your earplugs. It brings huge crowds; book accommodation well in advance (www.circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca).

July

The heat is on in July, humidity sets in and Montréalers long for surrounding lakes and distant beaches. Tourists throng the city for the jazz fest and other major festivals.

zL’International des Feux Loto-Québec

Thousands camp out on rooftops and on the Pont Jacques-Cartier for the planet’s hottest pyrotechnics display. The 10 shows last 30 minutes each and are held on Saturday nights and a few Wednesday nights for the entire month of July (www.internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com).

zFestival International de Jazz de Montréal

With more than 1000 concerts and nearly two million visitors every year, North America’s hippest music fest just gets bigger and better, with world music, rock and even pop music sharing the program with jazz legends and upstarts over 10 days from late June to early July (www.montrealjazzfest.com).

Street performers, Festival International de Jazz de MontréalEVA HAMBACH/GETTY IMAGES ©

zJust for Laughs

More than 650 artists perform in over 1000 shows at this comedy festival which runs for two weeks in mid-July. Past events have featured The Muppets, Kevin Hart, Margaret Cho, Lewis Black, Bob Saget and Bill Hader (www.hahaha.com).

August

Steamy days, heat and thunderstorms mark August, when many Montréalers leave town for seaside resorts. It’s high season for travel.

3Osheaga Festival Musique et Arts

In early August, Parc Jean-Drapeau is transformed into a giant stage for one of the city’s grand rock festivals. More than 100,000 music fans turn up to witness the powerhouse lineup of performers, which in recent years has included heavy hitters such as Jack White, Interpol, Stromae and Vampire Weekend (www.osheaga.com).

zFestival du Film de Montréal

One of the most prestigious film events in Canada, attracting 400,000 visitors to screenings from 70 countries. The stars come out, as well as the directors, producers and writers of the big screen. It’s held over 10 days in late August and early September (www.ffm-montreal.org).

zPride Montréal

Montréal’s Gay Pride parade (www.fiertemontrealpride.com) is the event on the Village calendar, drawing more than a million people, even in slow years. The streets around Pl Émilie-Gamelin pulse with dancing, art exhibits, concerts and parades. It’s held over one week in August.

October

Temperatures begin to fall quickly in October as trees put on a spectacular display of color. It’s a perfect time to see the Laurentians and the eastern townships.

zFestival du Nouveau Cinéma de Montréal

This festival highlights who is up-and-coming in feature films, documentaries, experimental shorts, videos, narrative features and electronic art forms during 10 days in October (www.nouveaucinema.ca).

zBlack & Blue Festival

One of the biggest events for the gay community, with major dance parties, along with cultural and art shows, all in the second week of October (www.bbcm.org).

With Kids

Montréal has many sights for young visitors. Depending on the season, you can go boating, biking and skating, or get some amusement park or skydiving thrills. On warm days, Parc Mont-Royal and neighborhood parks are great places for picnics and free-spirited outdoor activity.

Circuses

World-renowned Cirque du Soleil combines dance, theater and circus in powerpacked summertime shows. It will thrill the kids, but is truly for all ages.

For entertaining shows year-round, head to TOHU, a circular theater in the St-Michel district.

Hands-on Activities

Outdoors

At the Old Port you can hop into a paddleboat, go jet boating on the St Lawrence or tootle along in a minitrain for a grand tour.

Fun with science

Enjoy technological wonders, unusual games and an IMAX cinema at Centre des Sciences de Montréal.

Make a dam and walk on water at hands-on multimedia museum Biosphère in Parc Jean-Drapeau.

Flying thrills

Children aged four and above can experience the thrill of flying at Skyventure, a unique skydiving simulator.

Kid-Friendly Museums

Kids will love Biodôme, a giant indoor zoo with forest, river and marine habitats; or Jardin Botanique's Insectarium, with 250,000 specimens creeping, crawling or otherwise on display.

Enjoy the Planétarium, with domed theaters and interactive exhibits on outerspace; or take your tots on a virtual mission to Mars in Cosmodôme, an engaging space center.

At Musée Ferroviaire Canadien there are trains of every kind – stationary, moving, new and old trains that will thrill adults as much as children.

At Musée Stewart see oversized cannons, military parades and guides in period costumes inside an old British garrison.

Outdoor Fun

Amusement Park

At Québec’s largest amusement park, La Ronde, kids will experience chills and thrills galore – plus fireworks on some nights.

Parks & Gardens

Enormous Parc du Mont-Royal in the heart of the city is especially fun for kids in winter, with tobogganing, skiing, snowshoeing and ice-skating. Or try Parc Nature du Cap-St-Jacques, a verdant park with trails, a beach, a sugar shack and a working farm.

Need to Know

Babysitting Get a babysitter through SOS Sitter (www.sossitter.ca) or Denise Miller Babysitting Services (%514-365-1704; per hour $20).

Kid-friendly Restaurants Try Juliette et Chocolat, Romados or Espace La Fontaine.

Specialty Resources Exploring Montréal with Kids (www.montrealwithkids.com)

Visiting Québec City

With captivatingly picturesque old streets and a cliff-top setting overlooking the St Lawrence River, North America’s oldest French-speaking city is a gorgeous, seductive place. An easy excursion from Montréal, Québec City has enough magnetism to keep you occupied for at least a weekend, if not an entire week.

Getting to Québec City

Two superhighways link Québec City with Montréal: Hwy 40 north of the St Lawrence River and Hwy 20 south of the river. Both routes are arrow-straight and easy (if boring) to drive, and each takes just over three hours.

A nicer way to travel between the two cities is by rail; VIA Rail (www.viarail.ca) runs four trains daily from Montréal’s Gare Centrale to Québec’s Gare du Palais (three to 3½ hours, one way/return from $87/173). Frequent and economical bus service (three to 3½ hours, one way/return $59/94) is also offered by Orléans Express (www.orleansexpress.com).

When to Go

Summer is the liveliest time to visit, with a jam-packed events calendar and crowds overflowing the Old Town’s narrow lanes. Québec’s other peak season coincides with Winter Carnival in February. For pleasant weather and smaller crowds, visit in May, September or October.

Québec City Festivals & Events

Winter Carnival Spanning 17 days in January/February, the world's biggest winter carnival features an ice palace, snow sports, parades, ice sculptures, ice canoe races, music and lots of drinking.

Fête Nationale du Québec (Festival of John the Baptist; www.fetenationale.quebec; h24 Jun) Québec City parties hard on June 24. Originally honoring John the Baptist, this holiday has evolved into a celebration of Québec's distinct culture. Major festivities take place on the Plains of Abraham.

Le Grand Rire (www.grandrire.com) This big June/July comedy fest features everything from stand-up shows to street performances.

Festival d'Été (www.infofestival.com; hJul) With 300 shows on 10 stages, this 11-day July festival attracts musicians from all over the world. Major acts like the Rolling Stones share the limelight with lesser-known groups from Québec, the Americas, Europe and Africa.

Festival d’Opéra de Québec (www.festivaloperaquebec.com) Opera performances are staged throughout the city during this two-week festival in late July/early August.

Les Grands Feux Loto-Québec (www.lesgrandsfeux.com) Spectacular fireworks light the skies above the St Lawrence River on Wednesday and Saturday nights during this three-week August festival. Jazz, opera and other musical events are also scheduled.

Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (www.nouvellefrance.qc.ca) This five-day festival in August commemorates Québec's colonial period with historical re-enactments and period costumes.

Fête Arc-en-Ciel (www.arcencielquebec.ca) Québec City's Gay Pride celebrations span five days in September.

Festival International des Musiques Sacrées de Québec (Québec City International Sacred Music Festival; hSep) This September festival showcases everything from gospel to Gregorian chants.

Top Sights

In Québec City, just walking down the street is an aesthetic treat. The city’s historic core is unlike anyplace else in North America, with hundreds of gorgeous mansard-roofed old stone buildings clustered inside a perfect frame of crenellated town walls. Québec’s dramatic cliffside setting enhances its appeal, with picture-postcard views of the St Lawrence River unfolding from the Terrasse Dufferin boardwalk, and scenic stairways connecting the Upper and Lower Towns.

The most memorable sight for first-time visitors is the castlelike Château Frontenac, dominating the Upper Town from its lofty perch. The city also boasts a fine collection of museums, most notably the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec and the eclectic Musée de la Civilisation. History buffs will love Québec’s 19th-century hilltop Citadelle and two museums offering graphic representations of the battles between France and Britain for control of the city. Just outside the town walls, the vast Battlefields Park is ideal for cycling, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and other outdoor activities.

Québec City for Kids

Youngsters go giddy over the ubiquitous street performers and guides in period costume, the uniformed soldiers beating the retreat at the Citadelle and the antique cannons sprinkled around Battlefields Park. Walking the Fortifications or rampaging down the pedestrian-friendly Terrasse Dufferin helps get the wiggles out, while a slow tour of the Old Town in a calèche (horse-drawn carriage) appeals to the whole family.

In winter, children will be mesmerized by the toboggan run on Terrasse Dufferin, the ice palace, ice slides, snow tubing and dog-sledding at Winter Carnival, the whimsically decorated rooms at the Ice Hotel, the outdoor ice-skating rinks at Place d’Youville and the Plains of Abraham, and the engaging historical dress-ups at the Musée de la Place-Royale. Outside the center, kids also love the polar-bear, walrus and sea-lion shows at the Aquarium du Québec.

Eating

Dozens of boulangeries (bakeries) and patisseries, such as Paillard and Le Croquembouche, dazzle the eyes and taste buds with perfect croissants and abundant, beautiful displays of éclairs, strawberry tarts and chocolatines (pain au chocolat). For other affordable French-inspired treats, sample the quiches and savory snacks at traiteurs (delis) along Ave Cartier or the crêperies along Rue St-Jean, or head to the lively Marché du Vieux Port, where purveyors of artisanal cheeses and sausages mingle with farmers selling fresh produce from nearby Île d’Orléans. If it’s fine cuisine you’re after, prepare to be spoiled at top-of-the-line restaurants such as Panache and Le Saint-Amour, classy brunch hangouts like Café du Clocher Penché, or trendy bistros like Toast! and L’Échaudé.

Restaurants in Québec City’s Old TownELIZABETH BEARD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Drinking & Nightlife

From top-notch microbreweries to outdoor stalls selling the potent wintertime elixir known as caribou, Québec City is a fine place to drink up some local color. Raise a frosty glass (literally, it’s made of ice!) beside the roaring fireplace at the city’s incomparable Ice Hotel, quench your midsummer thirst with the eight-beer sampler at La Barberie, get cozy in an ancient stone cellar at L’Oncle Antoine, or sunbathe on the outdoor terraces at Le Sacrilège and l'Inox. When it’s time to move on, dance the night away at a cluster of renovated mansions-turned-discos on Grande-Allée, catch the eclectic mix of shows at Le Cercle in St-Roch, or check out Le Drague, the lively center of Québec City’s gay and lesbian scene.

Entertainment

Entertainment here is a year-round proposition. Grand Théâtre de Québec and Le Théâtre Capitole offer venerable settings for drama, classical music and other high culture, while bars around town host everything from Québécois ballads with fiddle and accordion to live rock, alternative music and jazz.

In summer, outdoor music venues pop up like mushrooms, including Kiosque Edwin Bélanger on the Plains of Abraham and the 10 stages dedicated to world music performances during Festival d'Été. Summer entertainment also spills onto the streets, with jugglers, acrobats, fire-eaters and street musicians setting up shop on street corners around town.

Shopping

In keeping with the city’s historic nature, Québec is an antique-lover’s paradise. Rue St-Paul in the Lower Town is crammed with shops offering one-of-a-kind items with a distinctly French-Canadian flavor. Striking an equally retro note, North America’s oldest grocery store, JA Moisan Épicier, is another browser’s delight. On the cobblestone sidewalks below Château Frontenac, artisans spread out jewelry, leather goods and other handicrafts, while trendy homegrown boutiques abound in the less touristy St-Jean Baptiste, Montcalm and St-Roch neighborhoods. Kids will love the miniature entryway built especially for them at the jam-packed toy emporium Benjo, and fashionistas will swoon over everything from designer shoes to the outrageous glasses frames produced by Québécois designer Anne-Marie Faniel.

Sleeping

Québec City is loaded with atmospheric places to spend the night. Top draws include the river-view rooms in the iconic Château Frontenac and the plethora of mansions-turned-B&Bs lining the pretty Jardin des Gouverneurs, such as Château Fleur-de-Lys. Other peak sleeping experiences include chilling out in a fur-lined sleeping bag on a bed of ice at the city’s famous Ice Hotel; enjoying the homey, high-ceilinged charm and private kitchen facilities at Les Lofts 1048; bedding down above the century-old Théâtre Capitole; savoring river views and classy in-house restaurants at the Old Lower Town's cluster of boutique hotels, or economizing at two well-located hostels in the Old Upper Town.

Parlez-Vous Français?

Québecers, like Montréalers, grow up studying English, but because the anglophone minority in Québec is so tiny, they rarely use it outside the major tourist areas. Most city residents are fully bilingual, but if you stray into the surrounding countryside, you’ll quickly find that French is the province’s official language.

5Eating

Montréal is one of the great foodie destinations of the north. Here you’ll find an outstanding assortment of classic French cuisine, hearty Québecois fare and countless ethnic restaurants from 80-odd nationalities. Today’s haute cuisine is as likely to be conjured by talented young Italian, Japanese or British chefs as graduates from the Académie Culinaire du Québec.

Neighborhoods

Montréal has more eating choices per capita than anywhere in North America except for New York City. The dining scene is marked by dazzling variety and quality, and brash chefs who attack their creations with innovation. Life in Montréal revolves around food, and it’s as much about satisfying your sensual fantasies as it is about nourishment.

Nearly every neighborhood has culinary stars, which makes for rewarding dining no matter where you wander. Downtown and Plateau Mont-Royal are a diner’s nirvana, linked by arteries Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis. ‘The Main,’ as locals call Blvd St-Laurent, teems with trendy establishments but shades into the alternative as you move north. Still in the Plateau, Rue Prince-Arthur Est and Ave Duluth Est are popular for their good-time BYOB (bring-your-own-bottle) places. Mile End and Outremont have a wide selection of bistros and ethnic fare, with new places popping up all the time. The key streets here are Ave Laurier, Ave St-Viateur and Rue Bernard. Head to Little Italy for great Italian trattorias along Blvd St-Laurent and Rue Dante. Or find award-winning restaurants hidden down cobblestone streets in atmospheric Old Montréal.

Specialties

Montréalers enjoy an enormous variety of locally produced ingredients and delicacies: raw cheeses, foie gras, game and maple syrup, to name a few. Outdoor markets carry exotic foodstuffs that weren’t available even a decade ago alongside tasty produce from local farms.

Residents argue heatedly over which places serve the best of anything – chewy bagels, espresso, comfort soup, fluffy omelets or creamy cakes. Montréal smoked meat and bagels, of course, have a formidable reputation that stretches across the country and are a constant source of friendly rivalry with New Yorkers. Montréal loyalists insist the secret to the hometown bagel’s success is all in the time-tested preparation.

A popular-yet-controversial component of Montréal cuisine is foie gras, a food product made from the fattened livers of ducks or geese. The production of foie gras involves force-feeding the animals via a feeding tube, often in amounts far exceeding what they would eat voluntarily. Animal welfare groups argue that the process is cruel and inhumane, and the production and import of foie gras is banned in several countries around the world.

More than Poutine

Traditional Québecois cuisine is classic comfort food, heavy and centered on meat. The fact that the ingredients are basic is said to be a historical legacy, as French settlers only had access to limited produce. A classic Québecois meal might center on game meat (caribou, duck, wild boar) or the tourtière, a meat pie usually made with pork and another meat such as beef or veal along with celery and onions. Another favorite lowbrow staple is poutine (fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy), with inventive versions served across the city.

The city has a fine choice of French food, with bistros and brasseries of all types and price ranges. Many incorporate the best of Québec’s produce and market ingredients.

For local recipes and tips on mastering the great dishes of the province, pick up the cookbook The Art of Living According to Joe Beef (2011) by Frederic Morin et al.

Poutine!

Broach the topic of poutine with a native Montréaler, and either a look of utter rapture or vomitous disgust will likely cross the face of your interlocutor. One of the world’s most humble dishes, poutine was invented in rural Québec sometime in the 1950s. According to legend, a restaurateur experienced an epiphany while waiting on a customer who ordered fries while waiting for his cheese curds. The word poutine itself derives from an Acadian slang term for ‘mushy mess’ or ‘pudding.’

For the uninitiated, poutine at first glance looks like the leftovers from a large dinner party all slopped into one giant pile, scraped onto a plate and plunked down on the table. While recipes and imaginations run wild when it comes to poutine, the basic building block of the Québecois dish is fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy. Varieties include ‘all dress’ (sautéed mushrooms and bell peppers), ‘richie boy’ (ground beef), Italian (beef and spaghetti sauce), barbecue or even smoked meat. In the past, going out for poutine had about as much sex appeal as chowing down on boiled hot dogs and tap water; these days, however, even exalted restaurants such as Au Pied de Cochon serve the well-known dish.

La Banquise Serving 25 different types of poutine round the clock, this is the gold standard for classic poutine.

Au Pied de Cochon Changes the simple dish with the addition of foie gras.

L’Gros Luxe Serves a good vegetarian option, as well as filling option stopped with bacon, pulled pork or fish and chips.

Patati Patata The house special is Patat-ine, with cheese curds served in an edible crispy potato basket.

PoutineMAGALIE L’ABBÃ/GETTY IMAGES ©

How Much?

Dining out in Montréal doesn’t have to be costly. On average, a multicourse dinner for two (including a glass of wine, taxes and a tip) at a midrange place will cost about $80 to $120. At the city’s more famous establishments, expect to pay about twice that for a multicourse meal. At the other end of the scale, you can eat delicious fare at casual spots – vegetarian cafes, Jewish delis and down-market ethnic eateries – for less than $40 for two people.

Keep an eye out for the table d’hôte, a fixed-price meal – usually three or four courses – that can be a good way to sample the chef’s top dishes of the day. Prices start at around $20. Some restaurants offer a discount menu for late dining (usually starting at 10pm), while others have a policy of apportez votre vin, or bring your own wine. There’s rarely a corkage fee, so take advantage of this.

Taxes amounting to 15% apply at all restaurants. Most don’t include the taxes in their menu prices, but check the fine print.

Food Markets & Groceries

For a slice of old-world Europe, don't miss Montréal's sprawling food markets. You'll find a staggering selection of fruits, vegetables, fresh bakery items, cheeses and more. It's also a chance to interact with the proud farmers, butchers and cheese makers behind these tasty provisions. The big markets have plenty of stands selling prepared foods (crepes, smoothies, coffees, pastries, sandwiches, pizza slices and more).

The biggest market is Marché Jean-Talon in Little Italy. Runner-up Marché Atwater, just west of downtown near the Canal de Lachine, is a fine spot for a picnic. If you're wandering around the Village or the Quartier Latin, photogenic Marché St-Jacques is a slice of Montréal history; a market has stood here since the 1870s.

Blvd St-Laurent in Plateau Mont-Royal, between Ave des Pins and Ave Mont-Royal, is renowned for ethnic food shops. Little Italy has small groceries and deli shops on Blvd St-Laurent, a few blocks south of Rue Jean-Talon. For a journey to the Far East, wander through Chinatown; you'll find tea shops, Asian groceries and loads of eateries.

Eating by Neighborhood

AOld Montréal The old-world setting, rooftop patios and some of the best restaurants in town are irresistible. Chinatown is next door.

AParc Jean-Drapeau Has very limited eating options. Plan to eat meals elsewhere or bring a picnic with you.

ADowntown Loads of great options, from inexpensive ethnic fare to stylish dining rooms, hidden down the backstreets.

AQuartier Latin & The Village Best for brasseries and bohemian cafes, as well as great budget eats.

APlateau Mont-Royal Cosmopolitan and hip, with excellent dining options in all price ranges.

ALittle Italy, Mile End & Outremont One of the best food destinations in the city; has everything from bagels to market-based fine dining.

ASouthwest & Outer Montréal The city’s outer districts are off the beaten path for foodies, but have a few distant gems.

Need to know

Price Range

In our listings we’ve used the following price codes to represent the average cost of a main meal:

$ under $16

$$ $16 to $30

$$$ over $30

Opening Hours & Meal Times

ARestaurants open 11:30am to 2:30pm and 5:30pm to 10pm. Many places close on Monday.

ABreakfast cafes open around 8am.

AOn weekends two dinner sittings are common at 5:30pm to 6pm and 8pm to 8:30pm. Places fill up from 8pm.

Reservations

Reserve on weekends to avoid disappointment. During the week you needn’t book unless the place is popular (or formal). Most budget eateries don’t take reservations.

Paying

Credit and debit cards widely accepted. Some restaurants accept cash only.

Tipping

A tip of 15% of the pretax bill is customary in restaurants. Your bill will show the total with tax in bold. Some waiters may add a service charge for large parties; in these cases, don't pay a tip unless service was extraordinary.

Websites

AThe Main MTL (www.themainmtl.com)

AMontréal Eater (www.montreal.eater.com)

AShut Up & Eat (www.shutupandeat.ca)

AEating out in Montréal (www.eatingoutinmontreal.blogspot.com)

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Garde-Manger Celebrated Old Montréal haunt with a festive vibe.

Joe Beef Creative meats and seafood, excellent wines and knowledgeable staff.

Au Pied de Cochon Offers foie-gras poutine.

L'Express Captivating Parisian-style bistro.

Olive + Gourmando Delicious baked goods and outstanding lunch fare.

Best by Budget

$

Satay Brothers Asian street food and fusion in a colorful setting.

L'Gros Luxe Dine in style (and on a budget) in the Plateau.

Kazu Ramen noodles and Japanese comfort food.

$$

Foodlab Creative, ever-changing small plates atop a media and arts center.

Le Serpent Nicely turned out plates in a minimalist setting.

La Sala Rosa Spanish cuisine in a festive, culturally minded space.

Café Parvis Industrial style and delicious salads and pizzas.

$$$

Toqué! Innovative cuisine and a fantastic tasting menu.

Le Filet Delectable seafood plates by a celebrated chef.

Impasto The new darling in town, with fantastic Italian cooking.

Best for Breakfast

Arts Cafe Market-fresh ingredients and delicious recipes in an artful setting.

L'Avenue A buzzing spot for Eggs Benedict and thick smoothies.

La Croissanterie Figaro The best place to linger over coffee and warm croissants.

Best for Small Plates

Le Vin Papillon Inventive tapas plates and great wines.

Orange Rouge Creative Asian cooking tucked down a quiet Chinatown lane.

Tapas, 24 The city's best tapas, from Catalan star Carles Abellán.

Hà Brilliant Vietnamese dishes take center stage.

Best Vegetarian

Lola Rosa McGill favorite with lasagna, curries and Tex-Mex.

La Panthère Verte Casual spot with great salads and sandwiches.

Invitation V Creative vegan fare in a posh setting.

Best Teahouses

Camellia Sinensis A tea-lover's paradise with hundreds of varieties.

Cardinal Tea Room Sip from fine porcelain in an elegant upstairs hideaway.

Best Bakeries

Patrice Superb pastries and cakes.

Alati-Caserta Old-school family-owned bakery in Little Italy.

Hof Kelsten The St-Laurent spot for pastries, sandwiches and soups.

Kouign Amman Famous for its Breton butter cake.

Best for Atmosphere

Barroco Stone walls, flickering candles, great cocktails and market-fresh fare.

Bremner Beautiful plates served in a buzzing subterranean dining den.

Best Cafes

Cafe Aunja Peaceful art-filled spot in downtown.

Moineau Masqué Great neighborhood cafe with outdoor seating.

Cafe Névé Well-loved Plateau cafe with perfect lattes and snacks.

Best of Classic Montréal

Schwartz's Long-running Jewish deli serving the best smoked meat on earth.

La Banquise A must for poutine lovers (and the merely curious).

Beauty’s Old-school 1950s-style diner.

St-Viateur Bagel Fires up some of the city's best bagels.

Gibeau Orange Julep Make a pilgrimage to the great orange ball.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Montréalers love a good drink. Maybe it’s the European influence: this is a town where it’s perfectly acceptable, even expected, to begin cocktail hour after work and continue well into the night. On a sunny Friday afternoon, the cinq-à-sept (traditional 5pm to 7pm happy hour) often becomes 5-à-last-call.

Le Saint Sulpice, MontréalLONNIE KISHIYAMA / GETTY IMAGES ©

Nightlife

Montréal nightlife is the stuff of legend; it’s a vibrant, exciting and ever-evolving scene on the cutting edge of international trends. That’s why touring bands and DJs rave about Montréal audiences. From underground dance clubs to French hip-hop, dub reggae to breakbeat; comedy shows to supper clubs and the still-exciting Anglo indie rock so hyped of late, Montréal after dark holds something for everyone. You just have to know where to look.

Bars

Montréalers treat their bars like a second home, unwinding after work for the legendary cinq-à-sept happy hour on Thursdays and Fridays, quaffing wine, beer and cocktails until the wee hours. In late spring and summer this is often done on a rooftop patio as temperatures rise. Come winter, Montréalers are undaunted by snowstorms and long, frigid nights. In fact, that’s the best time to find a warm, cozy bar (preferably with a roaring fire) and while the night away among friends and a few creative libations.

Cocktails

The cocktail craze has swept through Montréal and many bars have elevated the humble mixed drink to a work of art, blending housemade syrups, high-quality ingredients and top-shelf liquors. Le Lab, in the Plateau, was one of the first bars to lead the mixology madness, with skilled bartenders designing a menu of creative cocktails.

Brewpubs

Locals have always been fond of good beer. But the microbrewery scene has picked up momentum in recent years, with the opening of excellent, creative brewpubs across town. The most famous is Dieu du Ciel in Mile End, a must-visit for anyone who remotely likes beer. You'll find daring beers among the growing roster of microbreweries – some successful, some not. The settings have evolved too, from sudsy beer halls to brew spots with vintage style, industrial fixtures, reclaimed lumber bars, exposed Edison bulbs and flickering candles.

Drinking & Dining

Wherever you go to drink, food is likely to be a part of the experience. You might come across oysters, fish tacos, gourmet poutine, fois gras or even tartare de cheval (raw horsemeat), along with the usual assortment of frites (fries), moules (mussels) and bistro bites.

Likewise, some of Montréal's best restaurants also serve great cocktails, and a party crowd tends to arrive late in the evening at some places, such as Garde-Manger, as the focus shifts from food to drink.

Québec's Top Artisanal Beers

Dieu du Ciel From its Mile End location in Montréal, this microbrewery cranks out a superb selection of beers. A perennial favorite is the Moralité, an American-style IPA.

Unibroue Fin du Monde (End of the World) is a triple-fermented monster with 9% alcohol that more than lives up to its name; La Maudite (the Damned) is a rich, spicy beer that clocks in a close second at 8%; Blanche de Chambly is a light wheat ale.

McAuslan Brewing Keep an eye out for its apricot wheat ale and especially its St-Ambroise oatmeal stout and St-Ambroise Pale Ale.

L’Alchimiste This Joliette-based brewer (about 60km northeast of Montréal) turns out a stable of different brews but its Bock de Joliette, an amber beer, is the star of the bunch.

Les Trois Mousquetaires Based in Brossard (across the St Lawrence River to the southeast of Montréal), this small brewery’s Baltic Porter has won awards overseas for its bold taste.

Charlevoix This microbrewery in Baie St Paul (95km north of Québec City) makes excellent Belgian-style beers as well as a creamy imperial milk stout and an unusual Domus Vobiscum Brut, a so-called ‘champagne de bière’ made in the traditional champagne fermenting method.

Cafes

Coffee is big here, and most locals start the day with strong, espresso-based drinks at their neighborhood cafes. It’s not uncommon for artists, students and self-employed types to spend days hanging out at their favorite cafes, laptops in tow. Many places roast their own beans, and you can buy fair-trade and specialty blends in shops around town.

Clubbing & After-Hours

While established events and club nights have a following, the appeal of one-off concerts and parties (including raves) depends on who's putting it on (and the talent on the bill), rather than the location. Beloved party brands throw events regularly, while indie concert promoters book shows of all musical genres virtually every night. You can catch big names and local up-and-comers before they top the charts.

Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis are the two main club strips, with Rue Ste-Catherine in the Village housing a strip of gay clubs. Fancier clubs have selective door policies and cover charges, but anything goes at most underground spots. Things tend to start late (after midnight) and close at 3am, but Montréal’s after-hours scene is very happening, with clubs, plus private warehouse and loft parties; they don’t serve alcohol but are made for dancing and all-night club experiences.

Need to Know

Practicalities

AThe legal drinking age in the province of Québec is 18.

ABuy alcohol from the government-run liquor stores all over town: Societé des Alcools du Québec (SAQ). Opening hours vary, but dépanneurs (corner stores) sell wine and beer until 11pm. Some supermarkets sell alcohol.

Opening Hours

ABars open around 5pm and close by 3am.

AClubs typically open around 10pm (some open only Thurday to Saturday).

APubs, bistros, cafes and other establishments have varied opening hours; check websites.

Tipping

It's common to tip 15% of your bill, or between $1 and $2 for each drink you order.

Costs

You can often find midweek specials; some will waive cover before 11pm. Admission can be as low as $5 or free, but expect to pay $10 to $15 in larger clubs.

Tickets & Guest Lists

Lining up in freezing temperatures can be a real drag, so check club websites for a chance to get on the guest list, to reserve tables, or get advance tickets to events.

Dress Code

Nearly all clubs and bars in the city have a relaxed dress code.

Websites

ANightlife.ca (www.nightlife.ca)

AThe Main MTL (www.themainmtl.com)

AMTL Blog (www.mtlblog.com)

Drinking & Nightlife by Neighborhood

AOld Montréal Amid posh lounges and DJ bars is a mix of local scenesters, the fashion crowd and 30s to 40s mob, who have more money to spend.

ADowntown Rue Crescent is très touristy but vibrant bars hide among mainstream options. Along Notre-Dame Ouest at Rue Charlevoix is a satellite downtown eating and drinking scene.

AQuartier Latin & the Village Frenetic Rue St-Denis packs in students with pubs and patio beer pitchers. Along Rue Ste-Catherine Est, the Village has buzzing bars and gay clubs.

APlateau Mont-Royal Along Blvd St-Laurent is a major anglophone bar scene, with drunk 20-somethings (and police to keep order). Bars get more sophisticated along Aves Roy and Mont-Royal.

ALittle Italy, Mile End & Outremont From hipster cafes to whiskey lounges, here you'll find some of the most interesting drinking options. Several cluster around Ave Laurier and Rue Beaubien.

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Apt 200 Great space with ample amusement (pool, arcade games, good drinks, people-watching).

Dieu du Ciel Fantastic microbrews, all made in house.

Philémon Rip it up with great club beats and a huge bar in a heritage space.

Le Confessionnal Sinfully tempting cocktails and a fun crowd in Old Montréal.

Majestique Great cocktails, excellent bites and a dash of style.

Best Pubs

Dominion Square Tavern Gorgeous old-world tavern; a fine setting for a drink (or a bite).

Burgundy Lion Trendy British-style pub near the Marché Atwater.

Sir Winston Churchill A downtown anchor on bar-lined Rue Crescent.

Best Terraces

Terrasse Nelligan Great spot for a sundowner with views over Old Montréal.

Terrasse Place d’Armes An open-air rooftop bar that draws a stylish crowd.

Le Saint Sulpice The outdoor garden is a great spot on warm days in the Quartier Latin.

Pub Ste-Élisabeth A downtown favorite for its lush courtyard.

Best Clubs

Stereo A mecca for lovers of house music.

La Porte Rouge Upscale partying in the Plateau.

Datcha Fun and fog-filled dance club in Mile End.

Velvet Uber-hip club beneath an 18th-century stone cottage.

Luwan Youthful party-minded club in Chinatown.

Best Gay Bars & Clubs

Club Date Piano-Bar Sing your heart out in this Village saloon.

Sky Pub & Club A full night of amusement with dance floors and roof terrace.

Circus A massive after-hours club with a celebratory crowd.

Unity A three-story Village favorite.

Best Lounges

Bleury Bar à Vinyle DJs and the occasional live band in a small downtown den.

Baldwin Barmacie This apothecary-themed lounge in Mile End is pure eye candy.

Best Brewpubs

Isle de Garde A Little Italy gem with great beer and a friendly crowd.

Vice Versa Easy-going beer bar with a good selection of Québecois quaffs.

Les Soeurs Grises A classy brasserie in Old Montréal.

Benelux Excellent rotating selection of brews near Place des Arts.

Le Cheval Blanc Easygoing spot near the Quartier Latin, with an outdoor patio.

Best for Sport

Chez Serge Festive Mile End bar that's wild for hockey.

Café Olimpico Italian cafe that shows the big games (like European league football).

Hurley’s Irish Pub A cozy space for watching a game or catching a bit of fiddlin' action on the back stage.

Best Cocktails

Le Lab Cocktail wizardry in a stylish setting in the Plateau.

Le Mal Necessaire Tasty libations stirred up in a hidden Chinatown drinking den.

La Distillerie East Plateau charmer; its huge range of drinks is served in Mason jars.

B1 Bar Cozy basement space with well-made, unpretentious cocktails.

Big in Japan Magical sitting for a fancy drink.

SuWu Easygoing spot with a friendly vibe and good bar food.

Best Wine Bars

Pullman Extensive wine list and buzzing early-evening gathering spot in downtown.

La Buvette Chez Simone The best place in town for wine and small plates.

Le Vin Papillon Much lauded new wine-focused eatery.

3Entertainment

Montréal is Canada’s unofficial arts capital, with both French and English theater, dance, classical and jazz music, and all sorts of interesting blends of the above on stage virtually every night of the week. The city’s bilingualism makes it creatively unique and encourages creative collaborations and cross-pollinations that light up the performing-arts scene.

Live Rock, Pop, Jazz & Blues

Montréal is a music powerhouse, fostering an incredible variety of talent from cabaret pop stars such as Patrick Watson to Leonard Cohen and jazz legends such as Oscar Peterson. The underground and indie music community has many venues in which to catch rising stars, such as Casa del Popolo, while major acts from elsewhere in Canada and overseas perform at the Bell Centre or occasionally at special venues like the Stade Olympique.

There are dozens of concerts on every week at bars, clubs and concert halls. During summer, major music festivals such as Osheaga showcase big-name bands that bring fans from around the globe. Check local listings for details and try to buy tickets in advance.

Crowds at the Festival International de Jazz de MontréalPERRY MASTROVITO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Performance Power

While the city is small compared to other artistic capitals (such as New York and London), Montréal boasts some world-class companies renowned on the international circuit: a symphony orchestra, the Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal; an opera, Opéra de Montréal; and a ballet company, Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal. And don’t forget Cirque du Soleil, the magical, Québec-born circus of dance, music and acrobatics that forever changed the art form. Speaking of circuses, Montréal has its own year-round dedicated circus-arts venue. TOHU, in the St-Michel district, hosts an eclectic lineup of shows and circus events, with both homegrown groups and international acts.

Film Hub

The presence of Québec’s large French-language film and TV industry, and US productions that shoot here, have made the picturesque city a hotbed of film and TV production. Especially during spring and summer, you’re likely to see movie shoots on downtown streets and Hollywood stars nonchalantly roaming around – they may show up in unexpected places.

Cinemas

Montréal has its share of multiplex cinemas, but many also include foreign or independent films in their repertoire. More interesting are the several independent movie houses and repertory theaters. The Cinema Montréal website (www.cinemamontreal.com) is excellent, with reviews and details of discount admissions. The repertory houses offer double bills and midnight movies on weekends. These cinemas are sometimes cheaper than the chains showing first-run films.

Film Festivals

Montréal has so many film festivals that it’s hard to keep track. The mainstays are Montréal World Film Festival and Festival du Nouveau Cinéma de Montréal (%514-282-0004; www.nouveaucinema.ca).

Les Rendez-Vous du Cinéma QuébecoisFILM

(www.rvcq.com)

In the second half of February, this event showcases the best of Québecois film.

Festival International du Film sur l’ArtFILM

(www.artfifa.com)

A March festival devoted to films and documentaries about art from all over the world.

Vues d’AfriqueFILM

(www.vuesdafrique.org)

Held in late April and early May, this growing festival celebrates films about Africa.

Fantasia Film FestFILM

(www.festivalfantasia.com; hmid-Jul–early Aug)

This leading genre festival in July and August features works from Asia and appeals to the manga-loving otaku (geek) set.

Montréal Stop-Motion Film FestivalFILM

(www.stopmotionmontreal.com)

In late September or early October, fans of stop-motion animation gather to see painstakingly crafted works.

CinemaniaFILM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.festivalcinemania.com)

This November festival features films from French-speaking countries, all subtitled in English for non-native speakers.

Dance

Considered Canada’s dance capital, Montréal boasts an avant-garde and extremely vibrant dance scene. These days styles such as ballet, modern, jazz, hip-hop, Latin social dancing and tango exist side by side with cutting-edge contemporary dance that fuses various styles and incorporates theater, music and digital art. Montréal is home to many internationally renowned companies, such as Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal (www.grandsballets.com), La La La Human Steps (www.lalalahumansteps.com), O Vertigo Danse (www.overtigo.com), Tangente (www.tangente.qc.ca), Les Ballets Jazz De Montréal (www.bjmdanse.ca) and the popular theatrical touring dance company Cirque Eloize (www.cirque-eloize.com). The fact that Canada’s National Circus School (www.ecolenationaledecirque.ca) is based here certainly helps feed fresh, unconventional talent into the dance and performing-arts scene.

Comedy

With so many potholes in its roads, long winters and a multiethnic brew, humor comes naturally to Montréal. In July, the city plays host to the world's largest comedy festival – homegrown Just For Laughs (www.hahaha.com). The laugh-fest has been going strong for 30 years, attracting top comics such as Lewis Black, Jerry Seinfeld, Dave Chappelle, John Cleese and Jon Stewart, and even exporting itself to Toronto, Chicago and Sydney.

When Just For Laughs isn’t on, you can still get knee-slapping laughs at dedicated venues in the city. Comedy Nest (www.comedynest.com) specializes in stand-up and open-mic nights. Improv specialty venue Montréal Improv (www.montrealimprov.com) has free classes for those who want to be funnier.

The Kinsey Sicks (kinseysicks.com) at Montréal’s Just for Laughs FestivalGEORGE PIMENTEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Spoken Word

The spoken-word scene is quite popular in Montréal, often linked to the hip-hop community. Some of the most exciting and interesting stuff is being done on university campuses. Since these events tend to move around from bar to bar, it’s best to check out the bulletin boards or flyers at McGill or Concordia universities where new and underground performances are regularly announced. Venues such as Divan Orange also hold spoken-word events, and hip-hop crews and improvisational music collectives such as Kalmunity (www.kalmunity.wix.com) organize special spoken-word and improv events. Throw Collective (www.throwcollective.com) is a poetry-based collective that holds a monthly poetry slam and other events.

Need to Know

Tickets

ABook tickets well in advance for live performances.

APurchase tickets for concerts, shows and festivals from the venue box office, or call Admission (%514-790-1245, 800-361-4595; www.admission.com), Ticketmaster (%514-790-1111; www.ticketmaster.ca) or Evenko (www.evenko.ca).

ABeware of buying from touts outside event venues on the night of a performance. Try to check with other attendees whether you’re buying a genuine ticket and not a forgery.

AGeneral admission to mainstream movie theaters such as Cineplex is around $12 or $13. Some art-house theaters have discounted times and days. Ex-Centris has lower prices ($10) for tickets on weekdays before 5pm; Cinéma du Parc has $8 deals on Tuesdays.

ADaily newspapers Montreal Gazette and French-language La Presse are great resources for arts and culture listings, as is the free French weekly Voir.

Websites

ANightlife.ca (www.nightlife.ca)

AFestival International de Jazz de Montréal (www.montrealjazzfest.com)

ACirque du Soleil (www.cirquedusoleil.com)

ALa Scena (www.scena.org)

ATourisme Montréal (www.tourisme-montreal.org/what-to-do/events)

A33mag (www.33mag.com)

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Place des Arts Performing-arts complex, home to everything from jazz to ballet and opera.

Casa del Popolo One of the best indie-music venues in the city.

Usine C Former industrial space hosting innovative avant-garde theater and dance.

Théâtre St-Denis Century-old venue hosting everything from comedy to rock and theater.

Cinémathèque Québécoise Focused on avant-garde and Québecois features.

Best Classical Music & Opera

Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal Outstanding repertoire with performances inside the high-tech Maison Symphonique de Montréal on Place des Arts.

Orchestre Métropolitain A first-rate orchestra that plays in Place des Arts and around the city.

Opéra de Montréal Good, sometimes spectacular productions; a must for opera fans.

I Musici de Montréal A 12-member chamber ensemble that plays all over town.

Best for Jazz

Dièse Onze Atmospheric basement jazz den in the Plateau.

Place des Arts Free outdoor concerts during Jazzfest.

L’Astral A larger jazz-focused music space near Place des Arts.

Upstairs A downtown gem with an outdoor terrace.

House of Jazz A mainstream downtown jazz club that's been going strong for years.

Best Cinemas

Ex-Centris Cinema Great indie and world cinema on St-Laurent.

Cinéma du Parc Cult classics and indie films as well as new releases.

Cinéma Banque Scotia Montréal High-tech movie screens and IMAX theater.

Cinéma IMAX du Centre des Sciences de Montréal 3D IMAX films down in the Old Port.

Best Live Rock & Pop Venues

Metropolis A 2300-seat downtown venue that hosts big-name bands.

Club Soda An icon of the music scene, featuring bands from around the globe.

Le Divan Orange A creative venue in the Plateau that hosts a range of indie sounds.

Foufounes Électriques An edgy St-Catherine venue for punk, metal and rock.

Best Theater & Cabaret

Centaur Theatre Top English-language performances in a memorable Old Montréal locale.

Monument National Showcases theater, dance and comedy in a grand 19th-century building.

Théâtre St-Denis Touring Broadway shows, musicals and other big-production fare.

Cabaret Mado Uproarious drag shows in the heart of the gay Village.

Théâtre Ste-Catherine Drama, comedy and a wide variety of cultural fare.

Théâtre Outremont Restored 1920s concert hall with an excellent lineup of music, dance and film.

Best for Dance

Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal Dazzling performances from one of Canada's best dance companies.

Agora de la Danse Features eclectic and experimental artists and dance troupes.

Circus Arts

TOHU Great place to see creative groups from around the globe.

Old Port The summertime venue for Cirque de Soleil.

7Shopping

Style is synonymous with Montréal living. The city itself is beautiful and locals live up to the standard it sets. Maybe it’s that much touted European influence, but most Montréalers seem to instinctively lead stylish lives regardless of income level, enjoying aesthetic pleasures such as food, art and, of course, fashion.

Fashion City

Montréal is Canada’s unofficial fashion capital and many of the country’s most talented and internationally successful designers have roots here. Locally based lines include Frank & Oak, Denis Gagnon, Nadya Toto, Christian Chenail and Travis Taddeo. For more information, check out Québec fashion magazines such as Clin d’Oeil, Lou Lou and Elle Québec. Better still, visit during Montréal's August Fashion & Design Festival (www.festivalmodedesign.com), which showcases new collections.

Something for Everyone

Beyond fashion, Montréal is an ideal shopping city, full of goods you’ll want to take home. You’ll find the cream of the crop in this shopping paradise – from big international department stores to high-fashion designers, vintage clothing boutiques to weird one-of-a-kind antique shops, used-music stores and booksellers, chic home decor and more. As well, many international megastore chains have shops here, but with a local or European flair.

Great Markets of Montréal

Montréal is famed for its impressive year-round food markets, where you can sample the great bounty of the north. For more information, visit Marchés Publics de Montréal (www.marchespublics-mtl.com).

Marché Jean-Talon The city’s largest market has several hundred market stalls selling all manner of produce, plus food counters where you can get juices, crepes, baguette sandwiches and more. Don’t miss the Québecois specialty store Le Marché des Saveurs.

Marché Atwater ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 138 Ave Atwater; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; v; mAtwater) Located right on the banks of the Canal de Lachine, with scores of vendors outside and high-class delicatessens and specialty food shops inside, in the tiled, vaulted hall under the art-deco clock tower.

Marché de Maisonneuve ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-937-7754; 4445 Rue Ontario Est; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; mPie-IX, then bus 139) About 20 farm stalls, and inside, a dozen vendors of meat, cheese, fresh vegetables, tasty pastries and pastas in a beautiful beaux-arts building (1912–14) girded by pretty gardens.

Marché St-Jacques Traditional food stalls and shops still occupy their 1931 art-deco home in the northern reach of the Village.

Sales

Montréal's prices can be high. To save cash, plan your shopping around big sales events. Keep an eye out for sample sales, when designers offload new productions and showroom pieces at rock-bottom prices. Warehouse sales, featuring big reductions on old stock (with savings of to 50% to 90%), are another draw.

When it comes to fashion, bargain hunters shouldn't miss La Braderie de Mode Québécoise. Held in April and October, the four-day sale brings big savings on more than 100 brands. It's held in the Marché Bonsecours.

For upcoming sales, check out these sites: MTL Warehouse (www.mtlwarehouse.ca), All Sales (www.allsales.ca) and I Love Sample Sales (www.ilovesamplesales.com).

Shopping by Neighborhood

AOld Montréal Upscale Rue St-Paul is home to galleries, designer furnishings and clothing shops. Closer to Pl Jacques-Cartier is tourist tat.

ADowntown Busy Rue Ste-Catherine has the big names, department stores, and some specialty shops and local fashion boutiques. For antiques head to Rue Notre-Dame Ouest.

APlateau Mont-Royal Hip clothing and home-decor boutiques are located on Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis. Ave du Mont-Royal has used books and records.

ALittle Italy, Mile End & Outremont Great for groceries and cooking items. Prices soar on Rue Laurier, Ave Bernard and elegant Westmount Sq.

Need to Know

Opening hours

AMost stores open from around 10am to 6pm Monday to Wednesday; and close at 9pm Thursday and Friday.

AWeekend hours are 10am to 5pm, on Saturday and noon to 5pm on Sunday.

Taxes

In Québec, there is a sales tax of nearly 15% on most items (including a 9.975% province tax, plus a 5% goods and services tax).

Useful Websites

ATourisme Montréal (www.tourisme-montreal.org/what-to-do/shopping)

AMontreal Fashion Blog (www.themontrealfashionblog.com)

AMTL Blog (www.mtlblog.com)

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Le Marché des Saveurs du Québec A splendor of Québecois goodies: beer, maple syrup, sweets, jams and more.

Frank & Oak Handsomely crafted (and affordable) men's clothing by a Montréal fashion label.

Monastiraki Avant-garde art zines to eclectic antiques: this hipster retro shrine fascinates.

Galerie CO Lovely ecofriendly objects for the house.

Drawn & Quarterly A fine collection of literary works and graphic novels, including its own imprint.

Best Markets

Marché Jean-Talon The city's biggest and best market is in Little Italy.

Marché Atwater The city's second-largest market stands near the Canal de Lachine west of downtown.

Marché St-Jacques A small but historic neighborhood market in the Quartier Latin.

Marché de Maisonneuve A good option when out visiting the sights near the Olympic Park.

Best Art

Galerie Simon Blais A prestigious gallery with top-name artists in Mile End.

Galeries d’Art Contemporain du Belgo An intriguing building in downtown with galleries and artist studios.

DHC Art An Old Montréal spot featuring cutting-edge works by contemporary artists.

Parisian Laundry A massive space near the Marché Atwater often featuring large-scale installations.

Galerie Le Chariot Huge collection of Inuit arts and crafts.

Best for Food & Drink

La Tablette de Miss Choco Chocolates from around the globe.

Camellia Sinensis Tea lovers shouldn't miss this welcoming shop (and adjoining teahouse).

Candy Labs Flavorful housemade candies almost too pretty to eat.

Best Fashion

Rooney Stylish garments and accessories in Old Montréal.

Ibiki Beautifully made collection of men's and women's wear in the Plateau.

Roots A great variety of clothing and gear from one of Canada's best-known brands.

Holt Renfrew A high-end department store with a top selection of well-known brands.

Best Vintage

Eva B Step into an alternate universe in this wild vintage emporium

Friperie St-Laurent Plateau icon and home to some of the best apparel from the past.

Best Design

Style Labo Vintage chic and curios from the past.

Espace Pepin Artful housewares and fashion pieces.

Best for Gifts

Zone Orange Crafty jewelry, toys, and housewares made by Québecois artisans.

Artpop Eye-catching T-shirts, bags and frame-worthy prints of Montréal landmarks.

Au Papier Japonais Gorgeous collection of handmade paper from Japan.

Best Record Stores

Aux 33 Tours Extraordinary collection of albums, new and used (plus CDs).

Phonopolis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514 270 4442; 5403A Ave du Parc; mLaurier) A music lover's haunt in Mile End.

Neighborhoods at a Glance

1Old Montréal

On the edge of the St Lawrence River, Old Montréal is the city’s birthplace, composed of picturesque squares, grand old-world architecture and a dense concentration of camera-toting tourists. The narrow Rue St-Paul, the old main street, teems with art galleries, shops and eateries, while the broad concourse of the Old Port is lined with green parkland and cafes along Rue de la Commune. Nearby Chinatown is small but packed with cheap, tasty eateries.

2Parc Jean-Drapeau

Worlds away from the city bustle, this park stretches across two leafy islands in the midst of the mighty St Lawrence, about half a mile east of the Old Port. The prime draws are outdoor activities such as cycling and jogging, though you’ll also find some noteworthy museums, architectural remnants of the landmark Expo '67, and lake swimming and weekly dance parties in the summer.

3Downtown

At the feet of its modern skyscrapers and condo developments lie heritage buildings and old-time mansions, top-notch museums and numerous green spaces. The two most common species here are businesspeople, and students from McGill and Concordia Universities. The city’s major shopping district is downtown, as is the performing-arts complex, Place des Arts. This is the epicenter of the city’s jazz festival in summer.

4Quartier Latin & the Village

The Quartier Latin is a gateway to theaters, lively cafes and low-key bars packed with students from the French-speaking Université du Québec à Montréal. Continue west to reach the Village, a major icon for gay travelers. Shops, restaurants and bars proudly fly the rainbow colors here, and the nightlife and cafe scene rarely slows down.

5Plateau Mont-Royal

This former immigrant neighborhood houses a wealth of sidewalk cafes, excellent restaurants, bars and boutiques. For many Montréalers and visitors alike, exploring the Plateau is what Montréal is all about. The Plateau is handily located next to Montréal’s beloved 'mountain', Mont-Royal, home to walking and biking trails, a pretty lake and great views over the city.

6Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Just up from the Plateau are Mile End and Outremont, two leafy neighborhoods with upscale boutiques and restaurants; nearby, Little Italy is a slice of the old world, with classic Italian trattorias and espresso bars, neighborhood churches and the sprawling Marché Jean-Talon, the city’s best market. These three neighborhoods are also home to some of the best new bars in Montréal.

7Southwest & Outer Montréal

This grab bag of districts takes in the Canal de Lachine, one of the best biking paths in the city, as well as working-class districts such as Petite-Bourgogne and St-Henri. The highlight, however, is the majestic Oratoire St-Joseph, the iconic hillside church. The eastern part of the city also has some popular attractions, including Olympic Park, home to a planetarium, botanical gardens, a kid-friendly ecosystems museum and an eye-popping stadium.

Old Montréal

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Old Montréal

Neighborhood Top Five

1Soaking up the beautiful craftsmanship and soaring architecture of the Basilique Notre-Dame, the city’s spiritual jewel.

2Taking in a circus performance, river cruise, or waterfront stroll at the storied Old Port.

3Getting your bearings amid the heritage architecture of Place d’Armes and its monument to Montréal’s founder.

4Journeying back to the Montréal's early foundation on a fascinating subterranean walk inside the Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-Callière.

5Visiting the sailors’ chapel in the charming Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours, immortalized by Leonard Cohen.

Explore Old Montréal

Begin your tour of Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) in its heart – historic Place d’Armes. Admire the recently renovated square, with its statue of city founder Paul Chomedey de Maisonneuve, and then head inside the iconic Basilique Notre-Dame. Take your time viewing its finely crafted interior before crossing the square and visiting the Bank of Montreal’s 1847 headquarters, with its neoclassical facade and vaulted marble interior.

Next head down Rue St-Sulpice past the basilica to Rue St-Paul Ouest and turn left. It’s lined with art galleries, plush boutiques and eateries, but these give way to tacky souvenir shops before you reach Place Jacques-Cartier, a grand square dedicated to the French explorer that’s full of artists and buskers. At one end is the photogenic Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) while one block to the north, along Rue St-Paul Est, is the equally pretty Marché Bonsecours with its silver dome. Just past it is the beautiful Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours, a humble sailors’ church that is the perfect counterpoint to the basilica.

One block east is Rue de la Commune Est, a breezy waterfront street that gives you access to the Old Port and its museums, the Cirque du Soleil big top and river cruises. Proceed northwest up Blvd St-Laurent for 15 minutes to reach Montréal’s small Chinatown. It’s an excellent place to grab a cheap but satisfying plate of dumplings.

Basilique Notre-Dame, MontréalPGIAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Local Life

AHappy hour In summer Montréalers love to enjoy cinq à sept (happy hour) on rooftop patios in Old Montréal.

AFine dining Locals flock to the atmospheric stone-walled dining rooms in Old Montréal as well as the cheapie noodle eateries in Chinatown.

ABiking Rent a Bixi bike and ride from the Old Port to the Canal de Lachine bike path.

Getting There & Away

AMetro To reach Old Montréal or Chinatown, take the metro to Square-Victoria, Place-d’Armes or Champ-de-Mars.

ABus Bus 14 runs along Rue Notre-Dame in Old Montréal between Rue Berri and Blvd St-Laurent; bus 55 stops on Blvd St-Laurent.

AOn foot While it is expansive, the area can be easily explored on foot, and accessed from downtown via streets such as Rue de Bleury.

ABiking The Old Port is an entry point to a bike path that leads to the Canal de Lachine, which connects to the fringes of downtown at Rue Charlevoix.

Lonely Planet’s Top Tip

As with many streets in the city, east and west (est and ouest in French) labels on street signs don’t reflect true compass orientations. Remember that ‘east–west’ streets such as Rue Notre-Dame actually run closer to north–south, and this can be confusing if you like orienteering with maps.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Olive + Gourmando

A Tapas, 24

A Orange Rouge

A Barroco

A Garde-Manger

A Toqué!

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Le Confessionnal

A Le Mal Necessaire

A Philémon

A Terrasse Nelligan

A Les Soeurs Grises

A Terrasse Place d’Armes

Best Activities

For reviews, see Click here

A Ça Roule Montréal

A Bota Bota

A Saute-Moutons

TOP SIGHT

Basilique Notre-Dame

Basilique Notre-DameSOUMENNATH/GETTY IMAGES ©

This grand dame of Montréal’s ecclesiastical treasures is a must-see when exploring the city. The looming Gothic Revival church can hold up to 3200 worshippers and houses a collection of finely crafted artworks, including an elaborately carved altarpiece, vibrant stained-glass windows and an intricate pulpit.

The Sulpicians commissioned James O’Donnell, a New York architect and Irish Protestant, to design what would be the largest church north of Mexico. He converted to Catholicism so he could have his funeral in the basilica, and is buried in the crypt.

Opened in 1829, the basilica has a spectacular interior with a forest of ornate wood pillars and carvings made entirely by hand (and constructed without the aid of a single nail). Gilt stars shine from the ceiling vaults and the altar is backlit in evening-sky blues. The massive 7000-pipe Casavant organ provides the powerful anthem at the famous Christmas concerts; the church bell, the Gros Bourdon, is the largest on the continent.

While decoration is fairly minimal on the stone facade, you'll note three prominent statues: the Virgin Mary in the center (patron saint of Montréal), St John the Baptist (representing Québec) to the right, and St Joseph (for Canada) to the left.

The Chapelle du Sacré Coeur, located behind the main hall, is nicknamed the Wedding Chapel. The curious mix of styles emerged after a 1978 fire, when the chapel was rebuilt with a brass altar with abstract-modern motifs.

There are periodic choral and orchestral concerts throughout the year, which showcase the church's remarkable acoustics.

Don’t Miss

ACasavant organ

AChapelle du Sacré Coeur

AA choral concert

Practicalities

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

Awww.basiliquenddm.org

A110 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest

Aadult/child $5/4

Ah8am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, 12:30-4pm Sun

1Sights

1Old Montréal
Basilique Notre-Dame

Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-CallièreMUSEUM

(Museum of Archaeology & History; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pacmuseum.qc.ca; 350 Pl Royale; adult/child $20/7; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; c; mPlace-d'Armes)

One of Montréal's most fascinating sites, this museum takes visitors on a historical journey through the centuries, beginning with the early days of Montréal. Visitors should start with Yours Truly, Montréal, an 18-minute multimedia show that covers the arrival of the Amerindians, the founding of Montréal and other key moments. Afterward, head to the archaeological crypt where you can explore the remains of the city’s ancient sewage and river system, and the foundations of its first buildings and public square.

Interactive exhibits allow visitors to hear what life was like in the 17th and 18th centuries from characters on video screens.

Kids will get a kick out of the 'Pirates or Privateers?' exhibit, which explores the world of early-18th-century sailors. Hands-on displays cover the food, navigational gear, tools and weaponry used by the recruits of Captain Iberville. Other attractions include a restored 1915 pumping station. Across the street is the Mariners' House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 165 Pl D'Youville), which hosts a simulated archaeological dig (great for kids) and temporary exhibitions, including some of Montréal's top gallery shows.

The lookout at the top of the tower (free to visit) provides an excellent view of the Old Port.

Place d'ArmesHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d'Armes)

This open square is framed by some of the finest buildings in Old Montréal, including its oldest bank, first skyscraper and Basilique Notre-Dame. The square’s name references the bloody battles that took place here as religious settlers and First Nations tribes clashed over control of what would become Montréal. At its center stands the Monument Maisonneuve, dedicated to city founder Paul de Chomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve.

The red sandstone building on the north side of the square is the New York Life Insurance Building, Montréal’s first skyscraper (1888). It’s said to be built with the blocks used for ballast on ships bringing goods to Montréal. Next door, the Aldred Building is made of limestone and was designed to emulate the Empire State Building. Completed in 1931, it has an opulent, L-shaped, art-deco lobby. On the west side of the square, the Bank of Montréal was Canada’s first permanent bank.

Near the south side of the square, you’ll find horse-drawn carriages waiting to take you for a ride.

Bank of MontrealHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 119 Rue St-Jacques Ouest; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; mPlace-d'Armes)F

Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, the grand colonnaded edifice of Canada’s oldest chartered bank, built in 1847, dominates the north side of Pl d’Armes and is still a working bank. The imposing interior has 32 marble columns and a coffered 20m ceiling in Italian Renaissance style over a long row of tellers behind glass partitions. The helmeted marble lady is Patria, representing a minor Roman god of patriotism to honor the war dead.

A snoozy money museum (admission free) inside the bank has a replica of a cashier’s window, old banknotes and an account of early banking in Canada.

Vieux Séminaire de St-SulpiceRELIGIOUS, SPIRITUAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 116 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; mPlace-d’Armes)

The seminary by the Basilique Notre-Dame and its grounds are closed to the public, but you can look at them through the gate. The Catholic order of Sulpicians was given title to the entire Island of Montréal in 1663. The order built the seminary in 1684 and the 3rd-floor apartments of the old seminary have been occupied ever since.

The clock on the facade was a gift from French king Louis XIV in 1701; it is believed to be the oldest working clock in North America. Ancient oaks shade the rear garden laid out in 1715.

Rue St-JacquesSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

Known as the Wall St of Canada into the 1930s, Rue St-Jacques was lined with the head offices of insurance companies and banks that proclaimed Montréal’s prosperity for the best part of a century. In those days it was known as St James St. Some great edifices are veritable temples to capitalism.

The 1902 Guardian Trust Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 240 Rue St-Jacques) has helmeted women guarding the entrance while lions and mermaids watch over on the 2nd floor. The Molson beer-brewing dynasty had its own bank, but the Molson Bank Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 278-288 Rue St-Jacques) looks more like a royal residence; heads of founder William and his two sons grace the doorway.

The most glamorous of the lot is the Royal Bank Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 360 Rue St-Jacques), the city’s tallest building (22 stories) when it was built in 1928. Pass under the royal coat of arms into a banking hall that resembles a Florentine palace; the coffered ceilings are of Wedgwood and the walls display insignias of eight provinces, Montréal (St George’s Cross) and Halifax (a yellow bird).

Château RamezayHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chateauramezay.qc.ca; 280 Rue Notre-Dame Est; adult/child $10/5; h9:30am-6pm daily Jun-Sep, 10am-4:30pm Tue-Sun Oct-May; mChamp-de-Mars)

A home of French governors in the early 18th century, this mansion is one of the finest examples from the ancient regime. It was built for the 11th governor, Claude de Ramezay, and includes 15 interconnecting rooms with a ballroom of mirrors, as well as mahogany galore. Ramezay went broke trying to maintain it.

American generals used it as a headquarters during the revolution, and Benjamin Franklin held conferences here when attempting (and failing) to convince the Canadians to join the cause. In 1903 turrets were added to give the ‘château’ its fanciful French look. The building is a repository of Québec history with a collection of 20,000 objects, including valuable Canadian art and furniture. The Governor’s Garden (open June to September) in the rear re-creates a horticultural garden from the 18th century, including many original varieties of fruit trees and vegetables.

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-BonsecoursCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-8670; 400 Rue St-Paul Est; admission to chapel free, museum adult/student/child $12/9/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct–mid-Jan; mChamp-de-Mars)

Known as the Sailors’ Church, this enchanting chapel derives its name from the sailors who left behind votive lamps in the shapes of ships in thanksgiving for safe passage. The restored interior has stained-glass windows and paintings depicting key moments in the life of the Virgin Mary (for whom Montréal – aka Ville-Marie – was originally named). The attached Musée Marguerite-Bourgeoys relates the story of Montréal’s first teacher and the founder of the Congregation of Notre-Dame order of nuns.

The crypt has artifacts dating back 2000 years and foundations of the original chapel from 1773. The observation tower offers grand views of the Old Port.

The ‘Lady of the Harbor’ statue stands atop the enchanting Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours, which is also known as the Sailors’ Church.DAVID MADISON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Fonderie DarlingARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-392-1554; www.fonderiedarling.org; 745 Rue Ottawa; admission $5, Thu free; hnoon-7pm Wed & Fri-Sun, to 10pm Thu; mSquare-Victoria)

Tucked away in a little-visited corner of Old Montréal, the Darling Foundry hosts avant-garde, often large-scale exhibitions in its two sizable showrooms. The brick industrial building, which dates back to the early 1900s, once housed a prosperous iron foundry and is today home to the gallery and live-work studios for artists.

In the summertime the foundry hosts occasional Thursday-night street events (with free admission). Check the website for upcoming exhibitions. Also in the foundry is the first-rate restaurant, Le Serpent; its entrance is on Prince St.

PHI CenterARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-225-0525; www.phi-centre.com; 407 Rue St-Pierre; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

One of Old Montréal's most innovative art incubators, the PHI Center stages thought-provoking exhibitiions, embracing a wide range of styles and genres. Four or five nights a week, PHI Center screens art films, obscure documentaries, experimental shorts and other works you won't see elsewhere. The center also hosts poetry readings, album launches, foodie events, and much more.

Centre d'Histoire de MontréalMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 335 Pl d'Youville; adult/child $6/4; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

In a handsome old fire hall on Pl d’Youville, the Montréal History Center has 300-plus artifacts that illustrate the city’s eventful past while focusing on its social history. You can listen to the tales of long-lost neighborhoods, or travel back in time while watching archival footage from the ‘40s and ‘60s.

Place Jacques-CartierSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mChamp-de-Mars)

The liveliest spot in Old Montréal, this gently inclined square hums with performance artists, street musicians and the animated chatter from terrace restaurants linings its borders. A public market was set up here after a château burned down in 1803. At its top end stands the Colonne Nelson, a monument erected to Admiral Lord Nelson after his defeat of Napoleon’s fleet at Trafalgar.

Nelson’s presence is a thorn in the side of many French Québecois, and there have been many attempts to have it removed. Francophones later installed a statue of an obscure French admiral, Jean Vauquelin, in the nearby Place Vauquelin, just west of Hôtel de Ville on Rue Notre-Dame.

Hôtel de VilleHISTORIC BUILDING

(City Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 275 Rue Notre-Dame Est; h8:30am-5pm; mChamp-de-Mars)F

Montréal’s handsome City Hall was built between 1872 and 1878, then rebuilt after a fire in 1926. Far from being a humdrum administrative center, it’s actually steeped in local lore. Most famously, it’s where French leader Charles de Gaulle took to the balcony in 1967 and yelled to the crowds outside ‘Vive le Québec libre!’ (‘Long live a free Québec!’). Those four words fueled the fires of Québecois separatism and strained relations with Ottawa for years.

Peer into the Great Hall of Honor for some scenes of rural Québec and busts of Jacques Viger, the first French-speaking mayor (1833–36), and Peter McGill, the first English-speaking mayor (1840–42).

Hôtel de Ville, MontréalPERRY MASTROVITO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Marché BonsecoursMARKET

(Bonsecours Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca; 350 Rue St-Paul Est; h10am-9pm late Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep-Mar; mChamp-de-Mars)

This sprawling neoclassical building houses shops selling arts and crafts, leather goods and garments, and several cafes. The upstairs hall hosts periodic fashion shows and art auctions, and a number of restaurants front the facade on Rue St-Paul. Opened in 1847, the building has played a wide-ranging role in the city's history. It's been everything from a farmers market to a concert theater, and even served briefly as Montréal’s city hall (1852–78).

It’s also where the government of United Canada retreated, in order to continue the legislative session after the parliament buildings nearby were burned down by an angry Anglo mob in 1849.

Colorful trees and Marché Bonsecours are reflected in the St Lawrence riverMLENNY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lieu Historique de Sir George-Étienne-CartierMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-283-2282; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/cartier; 458 Rue Notre-Dame Est; adult/child $4/2; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun late Jun–early Sep, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun early Sep–late Dec & early May–late Jun; mChamp-de-Mars)

The Sir George-Étienne Cartier National Historic Site consists of two historic houses owned by the Cartier family. Exhibitions in the first detail the life of Sir George-Étienne Cartier, one of the founders of the Canadian Confederation, and illustrate the changes that society saw in his lifetime. The other house is a faithful reconstruction of his home during the Victorian era. Staff in period costume run guided tours throughout the day and hold dramatic presentations on etiquette and a servant’s life.

In season, the program includes a Victorian Christmas.

Cours Le RoyerSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

Montréal’s first hospital was founded on this narrow lane by Jeanne Mance in 1644. Later a huge commercial complex was built here, leaving several beautiful 19th-century warehouses behind. The buildings caught the eyes of developers in the 1970s and were converted into apartments and offices. Today the buildings line this quiet pedestrian mall pocked with lush greenery.

Musée des Soeurs-GrisesMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-9411; www.sgm.qc.ca; 138 Rue St-Pierre; happointment only 9:30-11:30am & 1:30-4pm Wed-Sun; mSquare-Victoria)F

Dedicated to St Marguerite d’Youville, founder of the community of the Sisters of Charity, better known as the Grey Nuns, this museum has a small but wonderfully presented set of exhibits. Tours of the museum in French and English are available by appointment only.

Rue St-PaulSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d'Armes)

This narrow cobblestone street, the oldest in Montréal, was once a dirt road packed tight by horses laden with goods bound for the Old Port. Today it’s a shopping street with galleries, boutiques and restaurants, touristy in spots but undeniably picturesque and enjoyable to wander.

Place RoyaleSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

This little square in the west of Old Montréal marks the spot where the first fort, Ville-Marie, was erected. Defense was a key consideration due to lengthy fighting with the Iroquois Indians. In the 17th and 18th centuries this was a marketplace; it’s now the paved forecourt of the 1836 Old Customs House (Vieille Douane; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Royale) and linked to the Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-Callière by an underground passage.

The neoclassical building looks much the same today as when it was built, but now serves as the museum’s gift shop.

Rue de l’Hôpital & AroundNEIGHBORHOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

Named for a hospice set up by nuns in the 17th century, the Rue de l’Hôpital and adjoining streets are full of architectural quirks and highlights. On the corner of Rue St-François-Xavier, the Canadian Pacific Telegraph Chambers was the 19th-century equivalent of a national internet provider. It houses condominiums today but the wild-eyed keystone over the entrance remains. The Lewis Building was built as the head office of the Cunard Shipping Lines.

One mischievous character on the facade is holding a bag full of loot; a more scholarly colleague is taking notes. The Centaur Theatre performs English-language plays in the old Montréal Stock Exchange building. Opened in 1903, the huge columns recall imperial Rome while the interior has sumptuous marble and wood paneling.

CourthousesNOTABLE BUILDINGS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

Along the north side of Rue Notre-Dame Est near Place Jacques-Cartier, three courthouses stand bunched together. The most fetching is the neoclassical Vieux Palais de Justice, Montréal’s old justice palace and oldest courthouse (1856) that’s now an annex of the Hôtel de Ville. It’s a popular backdrop for wedding photos.

The Édifice Ernest Cormier from the 1920s was used for criminal trials before being turned into a conservatory and later a court of appeal. The ugly stepsister is the oversized Palais de Justice, built in 1971 when concrete and smoked glass were all the rage.

Place Jean-Paul-RiopelleSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Viger Ouest & Rue de Bleury; hring of fire every hour 6:30-10:30pm mid-May–mid-Oct; mPlace-d’Armes)

The big draw of this square by the Palais Des Congrès is the fountain that releases a ring of fire (and an ethereal mist) at certain times of year. The fountain and sculpture by Jean-Paul Riopelle (1923–2002), called La Joute (The Joust), was inaugurated here in 2003. During the day this area is filled with nearby office workers having lunch, but summer nights are a big draw – that’s when the pyrotechnics take place.

Square VictoriaSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mSquare-Victoria)

In the 19th century this was a Victorian garden in a swanky district of Second Empire homes and offices. Today Square Victoria is a triangle of manicured greenery and water jets in the midst of modern skyscrapers. The only vestige of the period is a statue of Queen Victoria (1872). The art-nouveau entrance railing to the metro station was a gift from the city of Paris for Expo ‘67.

Palais des CongrèsNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-8122; www.congresmtl.com; 201 Ave Viger Ouest; mPlace-d’Armes)

Entering the hall of this convention center with its facade of popsicle-colored panes is akin to strolling through a kaleidoscope. Day brings out the colors, night the transparency. The cutting-edge Palais integrates several historic buildings: a 1908 fire station, the art-deco Tramways building from 1928 and a Victorian-era office complex. Immediately east of the Palais lies a landscaped garden with stone pathways linking 31 heaps of earth, each topped off with Montréal’s official tree, the crab apple.

THE GREY NUNS

Born in Varennes, Québec, in 1701, Marguerite d’Youville was initially known as the wife of a bootlegger, Francois d’Youville, who had a bad reputation for selling liquor to indigenous people on the black market. When he died of illness at age 30, Marguerite decided to dedicate her life to help the poor in an age where there was no social welfare. Fired by a religious devotion, her work drew other women to her cause. In those days, drunks were described as being grisé par l’alcool (grey from alcohol) and memories of Francois’ profiteering earned the sisters the derisive nickname Les Soeurs Grises (the Grey Nuns). Undaunted, they founded a religious order in 1737 and 10 years later were granted a charter to run the General Hospital of Montréal, caring for orphans, prostitutes, the elderly and the poor. Marguerite, who died at the hospital in 1771, retained the name Grey Nuns to remind the sisters of their humble beginnings. She was canonized in 1990, becoming Canada’s first homegrown saint.

1Old Port

Quai Alexandra & AroundPIER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPlace-d’Armes)

This easternmost pier in the port is home to the Iberville Passenger Terminal, the dock for cruise ships that ply the St Lawrence River as far as the Magdalen Islands out in the Gulf of St Lawrence. Nearby, the Parc des Écluses (Park of Locks) holds exhibitions of landscape architecture, shows and concerts. A bicycle path starts here and runs southeast along the pretty Canal de Lachine.

The abandoned 17-story-tall concrete silo on the south side of the locks is the last big relic of Montréal’s heyday as a grain port.

Quai Jacques-Cartier & AroundPIER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mChamp-de-Mars)

This pier is the anchor of the Old Port area, home to restaurants, an open-air stage and a handicraft center. Every year the port stages a number of temporary exhibits, shows and events. Montréal’s world-renowned Cirque du Soleil performs under its eye-catching big top here in warmer months. Tours of the port area depart from the pier, and a ferry can take you to Parc Jean-Drapeau.

The ferry can also stop at Parc de la Cité-du-Havre, where there’s a restaurant and picnic tables, as well as the nearby Habitat 67 building.

Parc du Bassin BonsecoursPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mChamp-de-Mars)

Perched over the river, the Parc du Bassin Bonsecours is a grassy expanse enclosed by a waterway and crisscrossed with footbridges. In summer you can rent paddleboats or remote-control model sailboats; in winter the ice-skaters take over at the Patinoire. There’s a well-placed bistro with outdoor seating in the summer.

Centre des Sciences de MontréalMUSEUM

(Montréal Science Centre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.montrealsciencecentre.com; King Edward Pier; adult/teen/child $15/13/9, with IMAX 3D movie $23/20/14; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; mPlace-d'Armes)

This sleek, glass-covered science center houses virtual and interactive games, technology exhibits and an ‘immersion theater’ that puts a video game on giant screens. Note that there is a huge range of different admission prices depending on which combinations of films and/or exhibits you want to take in. The center also has an IMAX cinema that shows vivid nature and science films.

Rue de la CommuneSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mChamp-de-Mars)

Set back from the waterfront, ‘the Common’ is a showcase of the rejuvenation that has swept Old Montréal. Compare it with old photos and you’ll see the warehouses and factory buildings haven’t changed much on the outside, but the tenants are upmarket hotels, restaurants and converted condos. Though the street has lost its raw, industrial feel, the original stone walls can still be viewed inside many buildings.

Sailors’ Memorial Clock TowerMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Quai de l’Horloge; h10am-7pm mid-Mar–Dec; mChamp-de-Mars)

At the eastern edge of the historic port stands the striking white Tour de l’Horloge. This notable clock commemorates all of the sailors and shipmen who died in the world wars. Visitors can climb the 192 steps for a view over Old Montréal and the river.

2Neighborhood Walk
Art & Architecture in Old Montréal

Start Basilique Notre-Dame

End Pl d’Armes

Length 2km, two hours

On the southeast of Pl d’Armes plaza is the city’s most celebrated cathedral, magnificent 1Basilique Notre-Dame. Inside is a spectacularly carved pulpit and richly hued stained-glass windows relating key events from the city’s founding.

Head along Rue St-Jacques, once known as Canada's Wall Street. Stop at the grand 2Royal Bank Building (Montréal's tallest edifice in 1928), to see its palatial interior.

Loop onto Rue Notre-Dame and down Rue St-Jean. On the corner of Rue de l'Hôpital, the 3Lewis Building has dragons and mischievous gargoyles on the facade. It was built for Cunard Shipping Lines, a steamship company founded in 1840.

A few blocks further is 4Place d'Youville, one of Old Montréal's prettiest squares. Some of the first Europeans settled here in 1642. An obelisk commemorates the city's founding.

Nearby is fascinating 5Musée d’Archéologie et d’Histoire Pointe-à-Callière. Inside see the city’s ancient foundations, or go to the top floor for fine views over the Old Port.

Across the road is the 1836 6Old Customs House. It's in front of 7Place Royale, the early settlement's marketplace in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Walk down Rue St-Paul to see the 2006 bronze sculpture 8Les Chuchoteuses (the Whisperers), tucked in a corner near Rue St-Dizier. This was one of many projects to revitalize the old quarter.

Head up St-Dizier and turn left onto lovely 9Cours Le Royer, a tranquil pedestrian mall with fountains. On the north-side passageway is a astained-glass window of Jérôme Le Royer, one of Montréal's founders.

Turn right on St-Sulpice and return to Pl d’Armes. Note the bNew York Life Insurance Building, Montréal’s first skyscraper (1888), eight stories tall.

5Eating

Vieux-Montréal has experienced a culinary renaissance in recent years, with a number of acclaimed restaurants winning over discerning diners and food critics alike. Here you’ll find top-notch Québecois and fusion fare, among some of the city’s most atmospheric dining rooms (it’s hard to beat the 18th-century backdrop). That said, Old Montréal still has plenty of touristy restaurants (mostly along Place Jacques-Cartier) where quantity not quality is the name of the game. The touristy-local divide is roughly Blvd St-Laurent, with the better restaurants lying to the west of this iconic street.

Billowy steam and scrumptious odors waft out of kitchens and into the streets of Montréal’s tiny but lively Chinatown. You'll find Cantonese, Vietnamese and even Mongolian eateries along Blvd St-Laurent and the pedestrian Rue de la Gauchetière.

5Old Montréal

TitanicSANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 445 Rue St-Pierre; sandwiches around $10; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; Wv; mSquare-Victoria)

The sandwiches here have office workers scurrying to these cramped basement quarters from all over Old Montréal on their lunch breaks. The varieties are endless and can include grilled veggies with feta, smoked salmon with sweet roasted peppers or roast beef with horseradish. Excellent salads, soup, quiche and antipasto misto are popular takeouts that round out the mix.

SoupeSoupCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.soupesoup.com; 649 Rue Wellington; soups $4-7; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

The brainchild of chef, writer and all-around soup-lover Caroline Dumas, this warm cafeteria-like eatery housed in a former factory offers more than 200 varieties of soup, as well as sandwiches and salads. It’s one of eight locations in the city.

Café DifféranceCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafedifferance.ca; 449 Ave Viger Ouest; pastries $2-3; h7:15am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W; mSquare-Victoria)

Hipster baristas whip up delightfully smooth lattes at this bright little espresso bar on the edge of Old Montréal to a mostly hurried professional crowd. Big windows, tall ceilings and great pastries make Café Différance a fine pitstop before venturing in or out of the old city.

Café Santé VeritasCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafesanteveritas.com; 480 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $7-13; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; W; mPlace-d’Armes)

Serving coffee brewed from beans from Vancouver’s 49th Parallel Roasters, this bright little cafe and snack spot whips up excellent java. The health-oriented kitchen menu features low-fat, low-carb choices such as Cajun chicken salad, as well as veggie sandwiches and mouthwatering breakfast crepes.

oOlive + GourmandoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oliveetgourmando.com; 351 Rue St-Paul Ouest; mains $10-17; h8am-5pm Tue-Sat; v; mSquare-Victoria)

Named after the owners’ two cats, this bakery-cafe is legendary in town for its hot panini, plump salads and flaky baked goods. Excellent choices include the melted goat's-cheese panini with carmelized onions, decadent mac 'n' cheese, and 'the Cubain' (a ham, roast pork and Gruyère sandwich).

You’ll also find decent morning choices (poached eggs, granola, housemade ricotta and toast) and fresh loaves for takeout (including olive and rosemary bread). Try to avoid the busy lunch rush (11:30am to 1:30pm).

Le SerpentITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-316-4666; www.leserpent.ca; 257 Rue Prince; mains $16-32; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri & 6-11pm Mon-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Industrial style dominates at this renovated factory next to the Fonderie Darling art space, which draws a creative tech-industry crowd. The menu features a creative mix of risottos and pastas (such as bucatini with pork confit) and a handful of well-executed seafood and meat dishes (veal filet with ricotta tortellini), plus a changing daily special.

There's a long marble bar, white brick walls, and exposed beams and pipes snaking overhead.

Da EmmaITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-392-1568; 777 Rue de la Commune Ouest; mains $21-42; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 6-10:30pm Mon-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

The old stone walls and beamed ceiling of this atmospheric place – a former women’s prison – today provide the backdrop to delicious Italian cooking. Osso buco, fresh grilled fish, agnolotti with stuffed veal and satisfying homemade pasta with mushrooms are the top picks from the changing menu. Reservations are recommended.

Le CartetCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lecartet.com; 106 Rue McGill; mains $11-20; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; W; mSquare-Victoria)

A great anytime place, Le Cartet has a spacious interior where you can stop in for crepes or eggs in the morning, sandwiches or salads for lunch, and coffee and desserts at other times. There's also a small shop that sells artisanal chocolates, Québec jams and cheeses, and delicious brioche.

You can always get your meal to go and head to the waterfront.

Restaurant HolderBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-0333; www.restaurantholder.com; 407 Rue McGill; mains $18-28; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 5:30-10pm Sat & Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

High ceilings, a warm color scheme and beautifully turned-out dishes are just part of the appeal of this classic bistro on busy Rue McGill. It’s a buzzing place (sometimes quite noisy), where the crowd – good-looking media and corporate types – dines on lobster ravioli, grilled hangar steak, pan-seared tilapia and other bistro classics.

Boris BistroBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-9575; www.borisbistro.com; 465 Rue McGill; mains $19-29; hnoon-11pm Jun-Aug, 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri & 6-10pm Tue-Sat Sep-May; mSquare-Victoria)

You’ll be elbowing your way through everyone from Armani-clad executives to disheveled artists to get a table at this popular bistro. Once settled, however, you can feast on a mouthwatering assortment of dishes, including artfully presented salads, a much-touted duck risotto with oyster mushrooms or favorites such as roasted sea bass on asparagus risotto.

Whether you want to eat inside or in the inviting outdoor courtyard, it’s wise to reserve ahead.

BevoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-5039; 410 Rue St-Vincent; pizzas $13-21; h4-11pm Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; mPlace-d’Armes)

In a smartly renovated 1850s stone building, this pizzeria delivers reliably tasty pies from its wood-fired oven including pizzas topped with all manner of prosciutto and pepperoni. Porcini risotto, veal poutine and roasted pork loin round out the menu, while the interior old-world stone and brick contrast with globe lights and a stylish bar.

The scene spills out onto Rue St-Vincent in the summer for alfresco dining.

Stash CaféPOLISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-6611; www.stashcafe.com; 200 Rue St-Paul Ouest; mains $12-19; hnoon-10pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

Hearty Polish cuisine is served up with good humor in a dining room with seats made of church pews and daringly low red lights illuminating the tables. Staff range from warm and gregarious to completely standoffish, but the food is consistent, with quality fare such as pierogi (dumplings stuffed with meat or cheese, with sour cream) and potato pancakes with apple sauce.

GandhiINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.restaurantgandhi.com; 230 Rue St-Paul Ouest; mains $14-25; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri & 5:30-10:30pm daily; mSquare-Victoria)

Gandhi has a core of loyal fans who come here for classics like tandoori chicken as well as the extensive curry menu with adventurous fare such as malaya, a curry of pineapple, lychees and cream. The vegetable samosas are finely spiced, and faves such as lamb tikka and butter chicken also go down nicely. Reservations are recommended.

BocataINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-507-8727; www.bocata.ca; 310 Rue St-Paul; mains $19-34; h5-10:30pm; mSquare-Victoria)

Like its sibling restaurant Barroco next door, Bocata has abundant old-world charm with stone walls, flickering candles and low ceilings – and a dash of new-world verve with its groovy music selection. The menu is wide-ranging, but the seafood is the highlight, with whole lobster, roasted black cod and squid-ink risotto among the favorites. It has a great wine selection.

oBarrocoINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-544-5800; www.barroco.ca; 312 Rue St-Paul Ouest; mains $22-39; h6-10:30pm; mSquare-Victoria)

Small, cozy Barroco has stone walls, flickering candles and beautifully presented plates roast duck, braised short ribs and grilled fish. The selection is small (just six or so mains and an equal number of appetizers), but you can't go wrong here – particularly if you opt for the outstanding seafood and chorizo paella.

Don't miss the exceptional cocktail menu, cleverly pasted into a hard-back volume. Fun staff and a jazzy soundtrack add to the buzzing atmosphere.

Garde-MangerINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-678-5044; www.crownsalts.com/gardemanger; 409 Rue St-François-Xavier; mains $34-40; h5:30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; mPlace-d’Armes)

The buzz surrounding Garde-Manger has barely let up since its opening back in 2006. This small, candlelit restaurant attracts a mix of local scenesters and haute-cuisine-loving out-of-towners who come for lobster risotto, short ribs, Cornish hen stuffed with foie gras and other changing chalkboard specials. The stage is set with stone walls, great cocktails and a decidedly not-stuffy vibe.

It's loud and festive, so not the place for an intimate dinner. Reservations essential.

Tapas, 24SPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 420 Notre-Dame Ouest; tapas $6-20, mains $25-30; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Celebrated Catalan chef Carles Abellan brings a bit of Barcelona magic to the new world with this outstanding addition to Old Montréal – his first foray outside of Spain. Mouth-watering dishes include razor clams, garlic shrimp, Galician-style octopus and Iberian ham, as well as heartier plates of fideua (Catalan-style paella).

Prix-fixe lunch ($15) and dinner ($39) menus are a great way to sample the goods.

The two-level dining room boasts an artful, modernist aesthetic, with blond woods, delicate wrought-iron details and tube-like chandeliers.

BremnerINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-544-0446; www.lebremner.ca; 361 Rue St-Paul; mains $32-40; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; mChamp-de-Mars)

Celebrated chef Chuck Hughes (the mastermind behind Garde-Manger) has wowed his fans with this subterranean, low-lit haunt across from the Marché Bonsecours. The menu changes regularly and features fried quail, crab and kimchi toast, succulent grilled sea bream and roast pork chop with clams.

The vibe: laid-back servers ballcaps and tattoos, hip hop playing overhead and a preparty crowd sipping first-rate cocktails (try the Negronis). The entrance is unmarked; look for number 361 above the stairs. Reservations are essential.

L’OrignalQUéBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-303-0479; www.restaurantlorignal.com; 479 Rue St-Alexis; mains $25-38; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat; mPlace-d’Armes)

This cozy chalet-style restaurant specializes in exquisitely prepared game meat and fresh seafood. Start with oysters or venison-heart tartare before moving on to braised wild boar or crusted cod with caviar. The service is excellent and the cedar-filled dining room is a great spot to linger over a memorable meal.

Its modest bar makes a great spot for a drink, but the official policy is that customers have to be dining as well.

Le LocalFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-397-7737; www.resto-lelocal.com; 740 Rue William; mains $25-32; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 5:30pm Sat & Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

On the western edge of Old Montréal, Le Local serves delectable fare in an architecturally stunning dining room. Well-dressed 20- and 30-somethings feast on inventive dishes with rich, market-fresh ingredients to the backdrop of unobtrusive electronica. There’s an outdoor terrace and an extensive wine list (and an award-winning sommelier). Reservations recommended.

Toqué!FRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-499-2084; www.restaurant-toque.com; 900 Pl Jean-Paul-Riopelle; mains $42-52; h11:30am-1:45pm Tue-Fri & 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Chef Normand Laprise has earned rave reviews for his innovative recipes based on products sourced from local farms. The bright, wide-open dining room has high ceilings accented by playful splashes of color, and a glass-enclosed wine cave with suspended bottles looming. The seven-course menu dégustation ($120) is the pinnacle of dining in Montréal – allow three hours for the feast.

Le Club Chasse et PêcheFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-1112; www.leclubchasseetpeche.com; 423 Rue St-Claude; mains $36-40; h6-10:30pm Tue-Sat year-round, noon-2:30pm Tue-Sat early Jun–Sep; mChamp-de-Mars)

One of the pillars of Old Montréal’s grand dining scene, this elegant restaurant serves fantastic new-wave French fare, including roast suckling pork and sautéed scallops with fennel and citron confit. Given the prices, it’s a favorite among execs and Montréalers celebrating a special occasion.

In the summer at lunchtime, dine alfresco in the historic Château Ramezay garden over the road.

Gibby'sSTEAK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-1837; www.gibbys.com; 298 Pl d'Youville; mains $35-54; h5:30-11pm; mSquare-Victoria)

A purveyor of the good old-fashioned steak, Gibby’s serves excellent grilled meats and seafood, including a respected rack of lamb. A mix of corporate types clink glasses inside the elegant stone building (former stables, actually) dating back to the 1700s. There’s an open courtyard in the back.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

PROMENADE DU VIEUX-PORT

In warm weather the Promenade du Vieux-Port is a favorite recreation spot for both joggers and in-line skaters, while cyclists can take in the view from the city bike path that runs parallel to it. There is also plenty of green space for those seeking a little relaxation or for phenomenal views of the L’International des Feux Loto-Québec. In winter, skating at the outdoor rink, with the St Lawrence River shimmering nearby, may well warm your soul, but it will leave the rest of you quite chilly.

5Chinatown

Mai Xiang YuanCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1084 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $6-10; h11am-9pm Mon-Sun; mPlace-d’Armes)

You’d be hard-pressed to find better dumplings in Montréal than the perfect little bits of heaven, pan-fried or steamed, that come out of the kitchen in this humble hole-in-the-wall. Each plate comes with 15 dumplings and fillings include everything from lamb and onion to pork and leek, as well as tomato and egg for vegetarians.

Noodle FactoryCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.restonoodlefactory.com; 1018 Rue St-Urbain; mains $8-12; h11am-10pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

Noodle fanatics roll up to this bustling hole-in-the-wall for chef Lin Kwong Cheung’s famed homemade noodles. You can watch him in the open kitchen whacking and kneading the dough into fine strips before devouring it yourself. Cash only.

Pho Bang New YorkVIETNAMESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-954-2032; 1001 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $10-16; h10am-9:30pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

Near the gateway to Chinatown, Pho Bang New York has decor and service geared more toward Westerners who want to have their pho (noodle soups) in swisher digs. The food here is still good and regularly turns up on people’s ‘top’ lists, but it lacks the kind of manic energy that makes the other Vietnamese places on this drag so atmospheric.

BeijingCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-2003; www.restaurantbeijing.net; 92 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest; mains $10-17; h11:30am-3am; mPlace-d’Armes)

Every Montréaler has a favorite Chinatown restaurant, a familiar place where a warm welcome awaits when turning up in the neighborhood. The unassuming and always-buzzing Beijing tops many lists, with a reputation built on tasty, fresh Cantonese and Szechuan dishes, friendly service and late-night hours.

Hoang OanhVIETNAMESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-954-0053; 1071 Blvd St-Laurent; sandwiches around $4; h9am-6:30pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

The Vietnamese baguette sandwiches here are the very best in Chinatown. There’s an endless choice of fillings but the grilled chicken or the tofu varieties topped with mayonnaise, veggies and coriander are pretty much unbeatable.

oOrange RougeASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-1116; www.orangerouge.ca; 106 de la Gauchetière Ouest; small plates $7-17; h11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri & 5:30-10:30pm Tue-Sat; mPlace-d'Armes)

Hidden down a narrow lane of Chinatown, Orange Rouge has a quaint, low-lit interior that's rather nondescript save for the bright open kitchen at one end and a neon-lit crab sculpture on the wall. Grab a seat at the dark lacquered bar or on one of the banquettes for a feast of Asian fusion.

Recent hits include chrysanthemum salad, shrimp and cabbage okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) and fried rice with softshell crab. With great cocktails, a speakeasy-like interior and eclectic dishes, there's nowhere else like it in Chinatown.

La Maison Kam FungCHINESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-878-2888; www.restaurantchinatownkimfung.com; 1111 Rue St-Urbain; mains $9-16; h7am-3pm & 4:30-10pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

This is generally considered the best place in town for dim sum, and is especially popular for Saturday and Sunday brunch. Waiters circle the tables with carts of dim sum ($3 to $7 each) – you pick and choose from tender dumplings, spare ribs, mushrooms, spicy shrimp and much more.

The entrance is hidden in the rear of a shopping passage up an escalator. Reservations recommended.

Little Sheep Hot PotMONGOLIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 50 Rue de la Gauchetiere; all-you-can-eat lunch/dinner $14/20; h11am-10pm; mPlace-d'Armes)

For something completely different, head upstairs to this clean, well-lit dining room, where you can feast on juicy morsels of lamb, shitake mushrooms, noodles, watercress and tofu. You pick your ingredients, which are brought raw to your tableside for you to cook up in the simmering hot pot.

A CAPITAL EXPERIMENT

Montréal would have a very different place in history but for a boozy rabble and a few newspaper articles. When the city became the capital of the United Provinces of Canada in 1844, the government moved into a two-story limestone building on the elongated Place d’Youville, which at the time was a public market. It was here that Canada’s first prime minister, John A Macdonald, made his inaugural speech to a joint French–English parliament.

Montréal’s tenure as capital came to an abrupt end in 1849. Egged on by inflammatory editorials in the Gazette, an anglophone mob set fire to the assembly and the building burned to a crisp. The crowd was protesting a law that would require the Crown to compensate French Canadians for damages inflicted by the British army in the rebellion of 1837. As a consequence Montréal lost its status as capital, and the seat of government shifted back and forth between Québec City and Toronto until 1858, when Queen Victoria declared Ottawa the new capital.

Nothing was saved from the flames except a legislative mace and a portrait of Queen Victoria; the latter now hangs in the federal parliament building in Ottawa. The location of the first Canadian parliament (the east end of the square) is today a parking lot.

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Old Montréal

oPhilémonCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.philemonbar.com; 111 Rue St-Paul Ouest; h5pm-3am Mon-Sat, from 6pm Sun; mPlace-d’Armes)

A major stop for local scenesters rotating between watering holes in the old city, Philémon was carved out of stone, brick and wood with large windows looking out over Rue St-Paul. Twenty-somethings fill the space around a huge central bar sipping basic cocktails and nibbling on light fare (oysters, charcuterie plates, smoked-meat sandwiches), while a DJ spins house and hip hop.

oTerrasse NelliganBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.terrassenelligan.com; 106 Rue St-Pau Ouest; h11:30am-11:30pm summer; mPlace-d’Armes)

Above heritage Hôtel Nelligan, this delightful patio is the perfect spot to down a mojito while the sun sinks. There’s a full menu for lunch and dinner, and splendid views over the St Lawrence River and the Old Port. It’s less of a scene than Terrasse Place d’Armes but equally enjoyable.

VelvetCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.velvetspeakeasy.ca; 426 Rue St-Gabriel; h10pm-3am Thu-Sat; mChamp-de-Mars)

Who knew that an inn dating from 1754 could be so hip? Beneath restaurant Auberge St-Gabriel, walk through a long, candlelit stone passageway to this grooving grotto of electronic beats done up like a speakeasy of yore. Fashionistas and scenesters flock here, and there’s often a long lineup outside. The other downside: there's usually a lot more guys than gals here.

Le ConfessionnalBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.confessionnal.ca; 431 Rue McGill; h5pm-3am Tue-Fri, from 8pm Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Playing heavily on churchy themes, Le Confessionnal is a tempting spot to wrack up a few sins. It has low red lighting, a glowing alabaster-like bar and low-hanging chandeliers, with old-school R&B playing overhead. Signature cocktails loosely reference the seven deadly sins (try 'Le Lazy Boy' with tequila, agave, citron frais and Hoegarden), and there are DJs spinning on weekends.

Les Soeurs GrisesPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bblsg.com; 32 Rue McGill; h11:30am-11pm Sun-Thu to 3am Fri & Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Named after the famous Montréal religious order of nuns founded by St Marguerite d’Youville, this swanky bistro-brasserie is equal parts microbrewery and smokehouse, serving a winning combination of brews and bites. Grab some smoked baby-back ribs, candied pheasant thighs or smoked trout and wash it down with excellent house beers.

Try the Camélia – a white beer with a hint of floral and green-tea finish. Its location near the Old Port bike path makes it a good spot to unwind after cycling the Canal de Lachine.

Terrasse Place d’ArmesBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-904-1201; www.terrasseplacedarmes.com; 8th fl, 710 Côte de la Pl d’Armes; h11am-3am summer; mPlace-d’Armes)

The rooftop terrace above the boutique Hôtel Place-d’Armes is a requisite stop on the nightlife circuit if you’re around during the summer. Nicely mixed cocktails, eclectic cuisine and a fantastic view over Pl d’Armes and the Basilique Notre-Dame never fail to bring in the beautiful crowd.

Taverne GasparPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tavernegaspar.com; 89 Rue de la Commune Est; h5pm-midnight; mChamp-de-Mars)

Facing the Old Port, this cozy watering hole in the Auberge du Vieux Porthas delicious faux-retro decor, a long zinc bar, and a menu with lobster sliders, oysters, fish and chips, and a delish mac 'n' cheese. The house brew is the Gaspar lager, and other local beers include St-Ambroise suds.

L’AssommoirPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.assommoir.ca; 211 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; h5pm-2am Sun-Wed, 3pm-3am Thu-Sat; mPlace-d’Armes)

Like its sister pub in Mile-End, L’Assommoir is home to a beautiful long bar that makes a great place to start the night with a house cocktail such as the GHB (gin, chartreuse, kiwi, maple syrup and a bit of apple and pear juice) and a few snacks (fried calamari or mixed ceviche).

Club PeoplCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clubpeopl.com; 390 Notre-Dame Ouest; h10pm-3am Wed-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

With its edgy, art-covered walls and chic lighting, this basement venue reels in 20- and 30-somethings with its electro-house, live jazz, and many sofas in the relaxing lounge. Enter on Rue Ste-Hélène.

WunderbarLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-3100; www.wunderbarmontreal.com; 901 Sq Victoria; h4pm-3am Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

This modern room in the W Hotel is among the city’s safest bets for a soiree on the town. Weekly DJ nights attract a well-dressed, dance-loving crowd.

Pub St-PaulPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-874-0485; www.pubstpaul.com; 124 Rue St-Paul Est; h11:30am-3am; mChamp-de-Mars)

In the heart of Old Montréal’s most touristy drag is this rock pub, a hit among students, jocks and passersby. A lunch and dinner menu of upscale pub fare is served, live bands rock out weekend nights, and drink specials complete the Top 40 formula.

FlyjinCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-564-8881; www.flyjin.ca; 417 Rue St-Pierre; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

Flyjin walks a fine line between speakeasy and high-end Asian brasserie, serving up tender sashimi, tuna tataki and green papaya salad to a party-minded crowd who are equally interested in the finely crafted cocktails (like sake mojitos and cachaça-dragon fruit combos). It has a barely marked entrance, leading down to the subterranean – but beautifully designed – space.

6Chinatown

Le Mal NecessaireCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lemalnecessaire.com; 1106 Blvd St-Laurent; h4:30pm-2am Tue-Fri, from 6pm Sat & Sun; mSt-Laurent)

For some of the tastiest cocktails in Montréal, look for the neon-lit green pineapple and descend the stairs to this vaguely Tiki-inspired bar hidden along pedestrian-filled St Laurent. Fruity elixirs are tops here – especially the Abacaxi mai tai, served in a pineapple – whipped up by friendly, chatty bartenders.

You can also order pork dumplings, General Tao chicken and other simple dishes off the menu – it comes from the no-nonsense Chinese restaurant upstairs (available until 11pm).

LuwanCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1050 Clark St; h9pm-3am Thu-Sat; mPlace-d'Armes)

Hidden down a quiet lane in Chinatown, Luwan draws a young, cocktail-swilling crowd who come for chatter early in the night (on banquettes with views over the lane) and dancing to hard-driving DJs as the night progresses. It's a fairly open minimalist space, but the staff is friendly and laid-back, and the crowd is out for a good time.

MONTRéAL’S LITERARY STAR

Émile Nelligan (1879–1941) is one of Québec’s literary icons, a star like Oscar Wilde or Lord Byron whose mix of talent and tragedy keeps them in the public consciousness long after their era is over. A poetic genius, Nelligan created most of his famous works by the age of 20 before being committed and spending the rest of his life in mental institutions.

Born in Montréal to an Irish father and a Québecois mother, his bohemian traits were in evidence from the time he was a teenager. He sailed in and out of school to the dismay of his parents and seemed interested in little other than romantic poetry. After submitting two samples of his work, he was accepted by the l’École Littéraire de Montréal (Literary School of Montréal); public readings followed and his poems exploring love and loneliness were regularly published in French-language magazines around Montréal. Nelligan had always marched to a different drum but by 1899 it was apparent his problems were more than just those of a temperamental artist and there was something seriously wrong.

His father had him committed to a mental institution that year. Though he tried briefly to rejoin society in 1925, he was back in care within days. What was wrong with him? Historians who’ve examined his hospital records believe he may have suffered from schizophrenia.

Though there has been both a movie and play about Nelligan’s life, and he was immortalized in a painting by master Québec artist Jean-Paul Lemieux, there is no museum devoted to his work or life. Hunting his ghost around town is the best you’ll be able to do. The Château Ramezay is where l’École Littéraire de Montréal used to meet and where Nelligan’s poems were first read in public. Nelligan lived in a house on the west side of Carré St-Louis. The square is also the setting for the famous Lemieux painting. Further along, St Patrick’s Basilica is where Nelligan was baptized; there’s a plaque at the back commemorating this event, along with a plaque devoted to Montréal’s other famous Irishman, D’Arcy McGee.

3Entertainment

Cirque du SoleilTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cirquedusoleil.com; Quai Jacques-Cartier; mChamp-de-Mars)

Globally famous Cirque du Soleil, one of the city’s most famous exports, puts on a new production of acrobats and music in this marvelous tent complex roughly once every two years in summer. These shows rarely disappoint; so don't pass up a chance to see it on home turf.

Cinéma IMAX du Centre des Sciences de MontréalCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-496-4724; www.montrealsciencecentre.com; Quai King-Edward; mPlace-d’Armes)

Located in the Centre des Sciences de Montréal, this theater brings specially produced adventure, nature and historical films to oversized screens. Watch faraway galaxies, dinosaurs or marine life come tumbling into your lap with the aid of 3D glasses and translation headsets. Great for kids.

Centaur TheatreTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-3161; www.centaurtheatre.com; 453 Rue St-François-Xavier; mPlace-d'Armes)

Montréal’s chief English-language theater presents everything from Shakespearean classics to works by experimental Canadian playwrights. It occupies Montréal’s former stock exchange (1903), a striking building with classical columns.

7Shopping

Marché BonsecoursSHOPPING MALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca; 350 Rue St-Paul Est; hgenerally 10am-6pm, to 9pm late Jun–early Sep; mChamp-de-Mars)

This majestic old building has housed the Canadian parliament, city hall and, now, a collection of cute boutiques selling Québec-made wares, and goodies such as fashion, accessories, jewelry and crafts. Restaurants and terraces are also on-site, and the marché is often used for trade shows and art events.

Zone OrangeCRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 410 Rue St-Pierre; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat; mSquare-Victoria)

This small colorful boutique just off Rue St-Paul has unique works by different artists and artisans, whose custom-designed ceramics, jewelry, toys and housewares line the shelves. There are animal-print pillows, tiny birdhouses, small gold reindoor earrings, whimsically embroidered mobiles and illustrations of iconic Montréal sights, among other unusual finds.

Espace PepinHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 378 Rue St-Paul Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

Boasting a vintage chic aesthetic, Espace Pepin is a fun place to browse for gift ideas. You'll find items such as wood-branch pepper and spice mills, elegant glassware, lambswool blankets and colorful baskets of handwoven hemp. A few doors down (at 370 Rue St-Paul Ouest) is Pepin's fashion store, with high-end clothing and accessories.

U&IFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-508-7704; www.boutiqueuandi.com; 215 St-Paul Ouest; h10am-6pm Sat-Mon, from 11am Tue-Fri; mSquare-Victoria)

Specializing in outerware, this eye-catching boutique features beautifully made men's and women's garments – as well as footwear, fragrance and handbags. High-quality brands from Canada are well-represented including Canada Goose, Montréal-based Soia Kyo and Krane Design (out of Toronto).

DHC ArtGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://dhc-art.org; 451 Rue St-Jean; hnoon-7pm Wed-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun; mPlace-d’Armes)

Opened in 2007, this excellent contemporary art gallery in a heritage building features mind-bending works by artists such as Valerie Belin, Ryoji Ikeda and Marc Quinn.

My Cup of TeaFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mcot.ca; 1063 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-7pm; mPlace-d’Armes)

This stylish Chinatown tea shop has more than 50 tea varieties in loose and teabag form, including its popular blooming tea, which opens up from a ball once immersed. It also has a range of attractive glassware and tea containers.

Galerie Le ChariotART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 446 Pl Jacques-Cartier; h10am-6pm; mChamp-de-Mars)

This arts emporium claims to have the largest Inuit collection in Canada. Choose from First Nations art carved mainly from soapstone, as well as fur hats, mountain-goat rugs and fleecy moccasins.

Galerie St-DizierGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-8411; www.saintdizier.com; 24 Rue St-Paul Ouest; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun; mChamp-de-Mars)

This spacious old gallery has always been at the forefront of the avant-garde scene in Montréal. Works are split between local and heavyweight artists known abroad, including Besner, St-Pierre and Tetro. Its forte is naive and modernist art and sculpture.

RooneyFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-543-6234; www.rooneyshop.com; 395 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; h11:30am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

Rooney is an inviting shop with lots of stylish streetwear and accessories, with plenty of ideas to help gents score a new look. You'll find Rag & Bone button-downs, nicely cut Levis Vintage denim jackets and jeans, classic Chuck Taylors, soft Mismo wallets, classy Filson duffels and a table of art-minded fashion mags.

Boutique Anne de ShallaFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.annedeshalla.com; 350 Rue St-Paul Est, Maré Bonsecours; h10am-6pm; mChamp-de-Mars)

French fashion diva Anne de Shalla studied fashion in Paris and came to Montréal in the 1970s. She now selects from up to 30 Québec designers every year for her exclusive shop collection – stretchy leathers, semisheer dresses, blouses and wrap-around casuals. It's located inside the Marché Bonsecours.

A RIDE IN THE CALèCHE

Horse-drawn carriages are one of the most popular (and romantic – assuming Silver didn’t go overboard on the morning oats) ways to see downtown. Calèche drivers pony up in front of Pl d’Armes and next to Pl Jacques-Cartier by the Old Port. You can even sometimes score sleigh rides through Parc du Mont-Royal once the winter weather arrives. Drivers have a fair bit of knowledge about the old quarters and will happily rattle off some history along the way. A half-hour ride is $48, one hour is $80.

2Sports & Activities

Ça Roule MontréalBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.caroulemontreal.com; 27 Rue de la Commune Est, Old Port; bikes per hour/day from $8/30, in-line skates 1st/additional hour $9/4; h9am-8pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Mar & Nov-Dec; mPlace-d'Armes)

Near the Old Port, Ça Roule Montréal has a wide selection of bicycles, in-line skates, spare parts and a good repair shop. Each rental includes a lock, helmet, patch kit and cycling map. You can rent children’s bikes, tandems and bike trailers for pulling the little ones along while you pedal. Tours are also available.

Prices listed are for weekday rentals; weekend rentals cost slightly more.

Bota BotaSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-284-0333; www.botabota.ca; 358 Rue de la Commune Ouest; admission $35-70; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, from 9am Fri-Sun; mSquare-Victoria)

This unique floating spa is actually a 1950s ferry that’s been retooled as an oasis on the water. It’s permanently docked by the Old Port with great city views, offering a range of treatments on its five beautifully redesigned decks. The Water Circuit admission gives you access to saunas, hot tubs and the outdoor terraces.

Treatments run the gamut from manicures and pedicures to facials, wraps and full-body massages (one hour $95). There's also a restaurant on-site, serving healthy seasonal cuisine (open 11am to 8pm) and periodic yoga and pilates classes (currently Monday and Thursday nights). Admission varies depending on day and time (it's cheapest on weekdays before 11am or after 6pm).

Saute-MoutonsBOAT TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-284-9607; www.jetboatingmontreal.com; 47 Rue de la Commune Ouest, Old Port; jet boat tour per adult/teen/child $67/57/47, speedboat $26/21/19; h10am-6pm May-Oct; mChamps-de-Mars)

Thrill-seekers will certainly get their money’s worth on these fast, wet and bouncy boat tours to the Lachine Rapids. The aluminum jet boats take you through foaming white water, from Quai de l’Horloge, on hour-long tours. There are also speedboats that take 20-minute jaunts around the Parc des Îles from the Jacques Cartier pier. Reservations are a must.

Plage de l’HorlogeBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vieuxportdemontreal.com/plage-de-lhorloge.html; Old Port; h10:30am-7:30pm daily mid-Jun–early Sep, Sat & Sun only to late Sep; mChamp-de-Mars)F

Montréal opened this ‘urban beach’ along the Quai de l’Horloge in 2012, trucking in sand, Adirondack chairs, parasols and a bar. Unfortunately, there’s no swimming, but it’s a fine spot to take in views of the river and to catch some rays.

Patinoire du Bassin BonsecoursSKATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parc du Bassin Bonsecours, Old Port; adult/child $7/4, skate rentals $9; h10am-9pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat Dec–early Mar; g14, mChamp-de-Mars)

This is one of Montréal’s most popular outdoor-skating rinks, located on the shore of the St Lawrence River next to the Pavilion du Bassin Bonsecours. DJs add to the festivities. At Christmas time there’s a big nativity scene.

AML CruisesBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-9300, 866-856-6668; www.croisieresaml.com; adult/child $30/17; h11:30am & 2pm May–mid-Oct; mPlace-d'Armes)

These 1½-hour river tours in a glassed-in sightseeing boat take in the Old Port and Île Ste-Hélène. Other options include brunch cruises and night cruises with a band, dancing and a multicourse dinner. Early and late cruises are in high season only.

Le Bateau MoucheBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-9952; www.bateaumouche.ca; 1hr tours adult/child $25/13; h11am, 2:30pm & 4pm May-Oct; mChamp-de-Mars)

This comfortable, climate-controlled sightseeing boat with a glass roof offers narrated cruises of the Old Port and Parc Jean-Drapeau. Brunch cruises are also available. Phone ahead for reservations and make sure you board the vessel 15 minutes before departure.

Le Petit NavireBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-602-1000; www.lepetitnavire.ca; Quai Jacques-Cartier; 45min tour per adult/child $20/9, 2hr tour $26/19; hmid-May–mid-Oct; mChamp-de-Mars)

Aside from rowing a boat yourself, this outfit offers the most ecologically friendly boat tours in Montréal. The silent, electric-powered Le Petit Navire takes passengers on 45-minute tours departing hourly around the Old Port area. Equally intriguing are the 1½-hour cruises up the Canal de Lachine (departing Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 11:30am from Quai Jacques-Cartier and 2pm from Marché Atwater).

Luna YogaYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-1881; www.lunayoga.com; Ste 200, 231 Rue St-Paul Ouest; 1½hr class $18; mSquare-Victoria)

Conveniently located in Old Montréal, this yoga center offers a small selection of daily Vinyasa classes. Go online or stop in to find out its latest schedule.

Parc Jean-Drapeau

Sights

Eating

Entertainment

Sports & Activities

Parc Jean-Drapeau

Neighborhood Top Five

1Taking a long breather from the hustle of the city by soaking up some sunshine and fresh air on verdant Île Ste-Hélène

2Riding the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster at La Ronde. Or getting eye-popping views of the city from the Ferris wheel.

3Grabbing a picnic and joining music lovers on the grass, during the laid-back summer fest of Piknic Électronik.

4Fighting the good fight, 18th-century style, with military parades at Musée Stewart, housed in a British garrison.

5Getting active, by taking a Stand-Up Paddleboard Yoga class, kayaking off the Plage des Îles or wakeboarding.

Explore Parc Jean-Drapeau

In the middle of the mighty St Lawrence, this alluring green space spreads across Île Ste-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame. Together, the two islands offer a fine choice of recreational activities, along with some worthwhile museums. The park is also home to a casino, a Formula 1 racetrack, an old-fashioned amusement park and summer festivals (see www.parcjeandrapeau.com).

You can easily spend the better part of a day exploring Parc Jean-Drapeau. From Jean-Drapeau station on the yellow line, walk north to the Biosphère (built for Expo '67) and take in its unique superstructure and environment-themed exhibits. Continue along Chemin du Tour de l’Île, which winds its way around the center of Île Ste-Hélène, toward Musée Stewart, where you might be able to catch retro military maneuvers in action. Take in the historical pageantry and exhibits before continuing north along the chemin to the amusement park La Ronde. While you’re walking through the island, note the numerous outdoor sculptures, the most famous of which is Alexander Calder’s L’Homme, as well as other buildings that are leftovers from Expo '67; the western side of the island offers great views of the city.

If you’re looking for thrills of another kind, hop on bus 167 to the Casino de Montréal on Île Notre-Dame and try your luck at roulette, blackjack, slots and other games of chance.

Parc Jean-Drapeau, MontréalWAYNE BARRETT & ANNE MACKAY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Local Life

AFestivals Parc Jean-Drapeau comes into its own during excellent festivals and events such as the Osheaga Festival Musique et Arts.

ABeach bumming The St Lawrence River doesn’t make for good swimming, but there’s the decent Plage des Îles artificial beach on Île Notre-Dame ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

AFormula 1 The main event that brings most Montréalers to Parc Jean-Drapeau is the Grand Prix du Canada.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Jean-Drapeau on the yellow line brings you to the heart of the park.

ABus No 767 travels from Jean-Drapeau station to La Ronde when it's open. In the summer, it also stops at the Plage des Îles. Bus 777 travels from Jean-Drapeau station to the Casino de Montréal.

AFerry In summer, catch a ferry (www.navettesmaritimes.com; one-way adult $7.50, child free) to the park from the Jacques-Cartier Pier at the Old Port.

ABicycle The best way to get around the park is by bike – access is via the busy Pont Jacques-Cartier or the circuitous but far more peaceful route via Cité du Havre.

Lonely Planet’s Top Tip

Parc Jean-Drapeau has a few snack bars and vending machines, but almost no eating options in terms of restaurants. If you’re visiting in early spring, late fall, or winter, you should consider packing a lunch or snacks. In a pinch, try the restaurants at the Casino de Montréal.

Best Places for Fun

For reviews, see Click here

A La Ronde

A Casino de Montréal

A Grand Prix du Canada

A Plage des Îles

Best Events

For reviews, see Click here

A L’International des Feux Loto Québec

A Fête des Neiges

A Grand Prix du Canada

A Osheaga Festival Musique et Arts

A Piknic Électronik

Best Outdoor Activities

For reviews, see Click here

A Stand-up Paddleboards

A Wakeboarding

A Swimming

A Kayaking

1Sights

1Île Ste-Hélène

There are walkways meandering around this island, past gardens and among the old pavilions from the Expo '67. The western part of the island was transformed into an open-air stage for shows, concerts and even after-hour parties. A large metal sculpture, L’Homme (Humankind; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), was created by American artist Alexander Calder for Expo '67.

It’s also here, near the sculpture, that the fantastic Piknic Électronik ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.piknicelectronik.com; Pl de l’Homme; admission $12; h2-9pm Sun late May–Oct) takes place. DJs spin techno and electronic music while you dance or lounge on the grass. Going strong since 2006, Osheaga Festival Musique et Arts (www.osheaga.com; Pl de l’Homme; hearly Aug) is the island’s major music festival, showcasing local alternative bands as well as big-name international acts. Other major music festivals include Heavy Montréal (www.heavymontreal.com), bringing together metal and hard-rock lovers in early August, and Île Soniq (www.ilesoniq.com), an electronic-music fest held in mid-August.

Mainly on weekends from late June to early August, the L’International des Feux Loto Québec (www.internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com/en; hmid-Jun–late Aug) fireworks show at the La Ronde amusement park lights up the skies with pyrotechnics from around the world.

Held over four weekends from mid January to early February, you can join the wintery action at the Fête des Neiges (www.parcjeandrapeau.com; hlate Jan–early Feb). This family-friendly event features ice sculpting, horse-drawn sleigh rides, dog sledding, ice skating, tubing, zip lines, plus shows and concerts.

In preparation for the 50th anniversary of the Expo, which will take place in 2017, Île Ste-Hélène will get a makeover, with a new riverside promenade and a new amphitheater for shows in summer and winter. The Place des Nations, where cultural events and ceremonies took place during Expo '67, will be given new life with a $12.5 million restoration – though exactly what it will look like or what purpose it will serve still remains under debate. Lastly, there will be new promenades between the metro, the Calder sculpture and Place des Nations.

BiosphèreSCIENCE CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.biosphere.ec.gc.ca; adult/child $12/free; h10am-5pm daily Jun-Sep, Wed-Sun Oct-May; mJean-Drapeau)

Housed in Buckminster Fuller’s striking geodesic dome built for the American pavilion at Expo '67, this nature center has its own geothermal energy system and fun interactive displays involving hand-pumps and water spouts. Exhibits focus on urban ecosystems and emerging ecotechnologies; there’s a model house outside built using sustainable design principles. The upstairs gallery about Fuller, and the exterior belvederes, offer spectacular river views.

At research time, major renovations were underway on the building, although the museum will remain open throughout the work.

La RondeAMUSEMENT PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.laronde.com; adult/child $62/47; hhours vary)

Québec’s largest amusement park, La Ronde has a battery of impressive rides, including Le Monstre, the world’s highest double wooden roller coaster; and Le Vampire, a corkscrew roller coaster with gut-wrenching turns. For a more peaceful experience, there’s a Ferris wheel and a gentle minirail that offers views of the river and city.

Concerts and shows are held throughout the summer, and fireworks explode overhead on weekend evenings (when the park stays open later).

Musée StewartMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stewart-museum.org; adult/child $10/free; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun)

Inside the old Arsenal British garrison (where troops were stationed in the 19th century), this beautifully renovated museum displays relics from Canada’s past in its permanent exhibition, History and Memory. In summer, there are military parades outside by actors in 18th-century uniforms; check the website for details. It’s a 15-minute walk from Jean-Drapeau metro station.

THE LAST GOOD YEAR

For Montréalers who are old enough, there are few events in the history of the city that evoke such an emotional response as the 1967 International and Universal Exposition, fondly known as Expo '67. For six months of that year, what is now Parc Jean-Drapeau hosted 62 nations from around the world and drew 50 million visitors (more than double Canada’s population), including VIPs such as Queen Elizabeth II, Lyndon Johnson and Charles de Gaulle. In no small part thanks to the efforts of Mayor Jean Drapeau, Expo '67 became one of the most successful world fairs ever held. It also coincided with the centenary of Canadian confederation, and the country – and Montréal itself – seemed on top of the world (one of the fair’s many legacies was the Expos, Montréal’s pro baseball team from 1969 to 2004).

However, in the decades that followed the Expo, the sovereigntist political movement, an exodus of Anglophones and economic stagnation precipitated for many a period of decline for the city. And thus there is a deep longing for Expo and its glories.

1Île Notre-Dame

This isle emerged in 10 months from the riverbed, atop millions of tons of earth and rock excavated from the new metro created in 1967. The planners were creative with the use of water, carving out canals and pretty garden walkways amid the parklands that stretch across the isle. The Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve continues to host the uberpopular Grand Prix du Canada in summer, while the more recent Casino de Montréal draws punters year-round.

Habitat 67NOTABLE BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.habitat67.com; Ave Pierre-Dupuy)

The artificial peninsula Cité-du-Havre was created to protect the port from vicious currents and ice. Here, in 1967, architect Moshe Safdie designed a set of futuristic cube-like condominiums for Expo '67 when he was just 23 years old. This narrow spit of land connects Île Ste-Hélène with Old Montréal via the Pont de la Concorde.

1 Eating

La Cabane Chez JeanQUéBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %438-382-3335; Plage des Îles; prix-fixe adult/child $30/20; h7pm Fri & Sat, 1pm Sat & Sun)

The chalet overlooking Plage des Îles hosts its cabane à sucre (sugar shack) during maple season. With a flickering fire in the corner and views across the frozen lake, the warmly lit chalet does a fine stand-in for the countryside if you can't get out of town. It's a weekend-only event from mid-March to mid-April. Reserve ahead.

At long communal tables, diners feast on maple-syrup-tinged dishes such as sausages, beer-braised ham, baked beans, potatoes seared in duck fat and maple-sugar pie.

Le Pavillon 67BUFFET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.casinosduquebec.com/montreal; 5th fl, 1 Ave du Casino, Île Notre-Dame; buffet $27-36, Sun brunch $25; h4:30-10pm Wed-Sun, 10am-2pm Sun; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 167)

Located in the Casino de Montréal, Le Pavillon 67 spreads an excellent buffet. On weekends, you'll find lobster, crab legs, poached salmon, roast lamb, grilled shrimp and many other appealing dishes. The options are more limited on weekdays. On Sundays, there's also a decadent jazz brunch with live music. Note that the casino does not admit children under 18.

There are several other eating and drinking spots in the casino: Ajia serves Asian fusion and is open hours similar to Le Pavillon 67; L'Instant has sandwiches and other deli fare, and is open 24 hours; there's also sleek modern Bar Le Poker, open from 11am to 3am (with food served until 2am).

Hélène de ChamplainFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-2424; 200 Chemin du Tour de l’Île, Île Ste-Hélène; mJean-Drapeau)

Named after Hélène Boullé, wife of explorer Samuel de Champlain, this illustrious eatery served as a pavilion of honor during Expo '67. The city of Montréal has spent more than $16 million updating the traditional stone homestead dating from 1930. It offers a varied menu of seafood and meats. It is closed indefinitely for renovations, though will likely reopen by 2017.

RETURN OF THE MONTRéAL MELON

In its heyday it was truly the Queen of Melons. A single specimen might easily have reached 9kg and its spicy flavor earned it the nickname ‘Nutmeg Melon.’ The market gardeners of western Montréal did a booming business in the fruit.

After WWII small agricultural plots in Montréal vanished as the city expanded, and industrial farms had little interest in growing a melon with ultrasensitive rind. By the 1950s the melon was gone – but not forever. In 1996 an enterprising Montréal journalist tracked down Montréal melon seeds held in a US Department of Agriculture collection in Iowa. The first new crop was harvested a year later in a new collective garden in Notre-Dame-de-Grâce, the heart of the old melon-growing district. To sample this blast from the past, visit local markets such as Marché Atwater or Marché Jean-Talon after the harvest every September.

3Entertainment

Casino de MontréalCASINO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.casinosduquebec.com/montreal; 1 Ave du Casino; h24hr; W; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 777)

Based in the former French pavilion from Expo '67, the Montréal Casino opened in 1993 and was so popular (and earned so much money) that expansion occurred almost instantly. It remains Canada’s biggest casino, and has quite a sleek design, following a four-year, $300-million makeover completed in 2013. It has more than 3000 slot machines and 120 gaming tables.

Grab a drink at the Poker Bar in the middle of the casino, or try one of the other enticing new eating and drinking options. Regular weekend concerts take place here (jazz, folk, blues). Arched footbridges link the casino to the Jardin des Floralies, a rose garden that is wonderful for a stroll.

2Sports & Activities

Plage des ÎlesBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Île Notre-Dame; adult/child $9/4.50; h10am-7pm daily mid-Jun–late-Aug, noon-7pm Sat-Mon late-Aug–early Sep; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 767)

On warm summer days this artificial sandy beach can accommodate up to 5000 sunning and splashing souls. It’s safe, clean and ideal for kids; picnic facilities and snack bars serving beer are on-site. There are also paddleboats, canoes and kayaks for rent.

Complexe AquatiqueWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcjeandrapeau.com; Île Ste-Hélène; adult/child $7/3.50; h10am-8pm daily early-Jun–late Aug, noon-7pm daily late Aug– early Sep, noon-7pm Sat & Sun late May–early Jun; mJean-Drapeau)

This pool complex was rebuilt when Montréal scored the 2005 World Aquatic Championships. The magnificent 55m x 44m warm-up pool is open for recreational swimming. There’s also a bay-like portion of the pool with a shallow, gently sloping bottom that’s great for kids and families.

Olympic BasinWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcjeandrapeau.com; 1 Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, Île Notre-Dame; h6am-9pm late Apr–Oct; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 767)

Competitive rowers and kayakers, along with other amateur athletes, train at this 2.2km-long former rowing basin built for the 1976 Olympic Games. You can take in many competitive boating events here such as the Canadian Masters Championships and the Montréal International Dragon Boat Race Festival (%514-866-7001; www.22dragons.com), held in late July.

Stand-Up PaddleboardsADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ksf.ca; Pavillon des Activités Nautiques; 1/2hr hire $15/25, yoga class $30; hmid-Jun–Aug; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 767)

On Île Notre-Dame, you can hire stand-up paddleboards for a bit of exercise out on the lake. Kayak Sans Frontières (KSF) offers an intro class if you've never done it. There's also SUP Yoga, where an instructor leads a small group class out on the water (you balance on your board while doing the poses).

TTS MontréalADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-567-2567; www.ttsmontreal.com; Pavillon des Activités Nautiques; per session incl equipment $18; hJun–mid-Sep; mJean-Drapeau, then bus 767)

Near the beach on Île Notre-Dame, TTS can set you up with a wakeboard and all the gear you'll need (including a helmet) for an action-packed glide across the water. You hold onto a waterskiing style grip, which is attached by long cord to a cable that pulls you across the lake. Ramps and other obstacles allow you to get some air on your eight-minute ride.

Grand Prix du CanadaCAR RACING

(www.circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca; Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, Île Notre-Dame; tickets $46-575; hJun; mJean-Drapeau)

Canada’s only Grand Prix race has been held on Île Notre-Dame since 1978, though it went on hiatus in 2009 due to a dispute between the city and Formula 1 supremo Bernie Ecclestone. It remains one of the most popular motorsport events in the world, selling out and packing Montréal’s hotels in early June. Be sure to reserve your tickets early.

Downtown

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Downtown

Neighborhood Top Five

1Spending a few hours exploring a treasure trove of traditional and contemporary art at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal.

2Getting your festival freak on with thousands of others when the jazz festival hits town at Place des Arts.

3Enjoying quiet time inside one of downtown’s beautiful historic churches, such as the Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde.

4Browsing the eye-catching boutiques and heritage buildings along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest.

5Learning all about cutting-edge building designers at the excellent Centre Canadien d’Architecture.

Explore Downtown

Downtown Montréal’s wide boulevards, glass skyscrapers and shopping galleries give the area a decidedly North American flavor, while numerous green spaces, eye-catching heritage buildings and 19th-century churches add a more European character to the bustling city streets. You can explore the area easily in the better part of a day with a pause for lunch.

Begin your tour at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, spending the morning taking in its vast collection of Old Masters and modern Canadian art, before grabbing a snack or lunch at nearby spots like the cafe in Cafe Aunja. Make your way along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, passing the heritage houses and tiny businesses en route, before reaching McGill University, a bustling haven of green with its own museums.

From the university, you can climb toward Parc du Mont-Royal if you really want to stretch your legs, or turn down Ave McGill College to reach Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest, downtown’s main shopping drag. To the west, there’s Rue Crescent and Rue Bishop, the traditional anglophone centers of nightlife with an array of bars and restaurants. More shopping centers and the festival-oriented Quartier des Spectacles – including Place des Arts, the performing-arts complex and hub of the jazz festival – are within a short walk to the east along Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. From Place des Arts, it’s easy to walk to Chinatown, and even Old Montréal, for dinner.

Local Life

APedaling Rent a Bixi bike and pedal up and down Blvd de Maisonneuve to the leafy suburb of Westmount.

AHiking Hoof it up hills such as Rue Peel to reach one of the entrances to Parc du Mont-Royal.

ADrinks, Theater Have a drink and a bite at Foodlab, then catch a play or a dance performance across the street at the Monument National.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Peel and McGill are both central and convenient.

ABus Bus 15 runs on Rue Ste-Catherine and Blvd de Maisonneuve, bus 24 on Rue Sherbrooke and bus 150 on Blvd René-Lévesque.

ABike Bixi bikes have numerous stations in the area. If you’re cycling, head to Blvd de Maisonneuve, which has separate protected bike lanes.

Lonely Planet’s Top Tip

While there's much to see during the day, downtown is also a major nighttime draw for the performing arts. It's worth planning an evening around a concert, play or performance happening in one of the top theaters. If hockey or Canadian football is more your speed, catch a game at the Bell Centre or Molson Stadium.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Joe Beef

A Jatoba

A Foodlab

A Café Parvis

A Satay Brothers

A Imadake

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Bleury Bar à Vinyle

A Pub Ste-Élisabeth

A Dominion Square Tavern

A Burgundy Lion

A Benelux

A Le Vin Papillon

Best Entertainment

For reviews, see Click here

A Place des Arts

A Foufounes Electriques

A Upstairs

A Monument National

A Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal

TOP SIGHT

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

Musée des Beaux-Arts de MontréalGUYLAIN DOYLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Montréal’s Museum of Fine Arts is an accessible and beautifully updated oasis of art housed in architecturally striking buildings. This is Canada’s oldest museum and the city’s largest, with works from Old Masters to contemporary artists.

The collection is currently housed in four pavilions. The beaux-arts, marble-covered Michal & Renata Hornstein Pavilion at 1379 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest presents World Cultures – everything from ancient African to modern Japanese art.

Behind this building is the Liliane & David M Stewart Pavilion, where you'll find an eye-catching decorative arts collection. Glass, ceramics, textiles, furniture and industrial design pieces from around the globe have been assembled.

Across Museum Ave, the Claire & Marc Bourgie Pavilion is situated in a renovated 1894 church and displays some magnificent works of Canadian and Québecois art. Head to the top floor to delve into Inuit art and its cultural legacy. The church’s Bourgie Concert Hall features gorgeous Tiffany stained-glass windows and live shows.

The modern Moshe Safdie–designed annex across Sherbrooke is the Jean-Noël Desmarais Pavilion, home to the Old and Modern Masters, with paintings from the Middle Ages stretching through the Renaissance and classical eras up to contemporary works. It can be reached via an underground passage from the Hornstein Pavilion.

On the horizon is a fifth pavilion, which will feature international works as well as an education center. It's scheduled to open in late 2016.

Don’t Miss

APablo Picasso’s Embrace

AJean-Paul Riopelle’s Austria

ABourgie pavilion

Practicalities

AMuseum of Fine Arts

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

Awww.mbam.qc.ca

A1380 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Apermanent collection adult/under 31 $12/free, special exhibitions $20/12

Ah10am-5pm Sat & Sun, 11am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 9pm Wed (special exhibition only)

AmGuy-Concordia

1Sights
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal

Church of St James the ApostleCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-7577; www.stjamestheapostle.ca; 1439 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h8am-5pm Wed & Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

Built in 1864 on a sports field for the British military, this Anglican church used to be called St Crickets in the Fields for the matches that unfolded here. The stained glass in the east transept, the Regimental Window, was donated in memory of the WWI fallen. The Writers’ Chapel honors Canadian poets and authors such as John Glassco and AJM Smith.

Le ChâteauHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1321 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mGuy-Concordia)

This fortress-like apartment complex from 1926 was designed by the famed Montréal architects George Ross and Robert MacDonald. The style would do Errol Flynn proud: Scottish and French Renaissance with stone battlements, demons and pavilion roofs. Fossilized shells are visible in the limestone blocks. Famed local author Mordecai Richler resided here for more than 20 years.

Musée d'Art ContemporainMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macm.org; 185 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; adult/child $14/5, 5-9pm Wed admission half-price; h11am-6pm Tue, to 9pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mPlace-des-Arts)

This showcase of modern Canadian and international art has eight galleries divided between past greats (since 1939) and exciting current developments. A weighty collection of 7600 permanent works includes Québecois legends Jean-Paul Riopelle, Paul-Émile Borduas and Geneviève Cadieux, but also temporary exhibitions of the latest trends in current art from Canadian and international artists. Forms range from traditional to new media, from painting, sculpture and prints to installation art, photography and video.

Place des ArtsARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 514-842-2112; www.placedesarts.com; 175 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Montréal’s performing-arts center is the nexus for artistic and cultural events. Several renowned musical companies call the Place des Arts home, including the Opéra de Montréal and the Montréal Symphony Orchestra, based in the acoustically brilliant 2100-seat Maison Symphonique. It’s also center stage for the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal.

A key part of the Quartier des Spectacles, the complex embraces an outdoor plaza with fountains and an ornamental pool and is attached to the Complexe Desjardins shopping center via an underground tunnel. The six halls also include the 3000-seat Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier, where Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal and the Opéra de Montréal perform. The 1500-seat Théâtre Maisonneuve hosts variety shows, dance performances and circus arts; while the smaller Cinquième Salle hosts cabaret, experimental theater and small concerts.

Galeries d’Art Contemporain du BelgoARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebelgoreport.com; 372 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; hhours vary; mPlace-des-Arts)

More than a decade ago the Belgo building was a rundown haven for struggling artists. It has since earned a reputation as one of Montréal’s most intriguing exhibition spaces with some 30 galleries and artist studios, along with dance, yoga and photography studios. Check the website for ongoing exhibitions and upcoming openings.

Maison du Festival Rio Tinto AlcanMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 305 Rue St-Cathereine Ouest; h11:30am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; mPlace-des-Arts)

A key concert venue during the Jazz Festival, this multistory building hosts concerts year-round in the Salle l'Astral. It also has a small gallery with listening stations and memorabilia from some of the greats who've played at the fest. Check out Dave Brubeck's spectacles, Leonard Cohen's hat, Pat Metheny's guitar and Ella Fitzgerald's wig. A big video screen shows highlights from past concerts.

Musée McCordMUSEUM

(McCord Museum of Canadian History; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mccord-museum.qc.ca; 690 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; adult/student/child $14/8/free, special exhibitions extra $5, admission free after 5pm Wed; h10am-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri, to 9pm Wed, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mMcGill)

With hardly an inch to spare in its cramped but welcoming galleries, the McCord Museum of Canadian History houses thousands of artifacts and documents illustrating Canada’s social, cultural and archaeological history from the 18th century to the present day.

Musée RedpathMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 859 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; mMcGill)F

A Victorian spirit of discovery pervades this old natural-history museum, though you won’t find anything more gruesome than stuffed animals from the Laurentians hinterland. The Redpath Museum houses a large variety of specimens, including a dinosaur skeleton and seashells donated from around the world. A highlight is the 3rd-floor World Cultures Exhibits, which includes Egyptian mummies, shrunken heads and artifacts from ancient Mediterranean, African and East Asian communities.

Cathédrale Christ ChurchCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 635 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h7am-6pm; mMcGill)

Montréal’s first Anglican bishop had this cathedral built (modeled on a church in Salisbury, England) and it was completed in 1859. The church was the talk of the town in the late 1980s when it allowed a shopping center, the Promenades de la Cathédrale, to be built underneath it. Spectacular photos show the house of worship resting on concrete stilts while construction went on underneath.

The interior is sober apart from the pretty stained-glass windows made by William Morris’ studios in London. In the rear cloister garden stands a memorial statue to Raoul Wallenberg, the Swedish diplomat who saved 100,000 Jews from the concentration camps in WWII.

McGill UniversityUNIVERSITY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mcgill.ca; 845 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mMcGill)

Founded in 1828 by James McGill, a rich Scottish fur trader, McGill University is one of Canada’s most prestigious learning institutions, with 39,000 students. The university’s medical and engineering faculties have a fine reputation and many campus buildings are showcases of Victorian architecture. The campus, at the foot of Mont-Royal, is rather nice for a stroll and also incorporates the Musée Redpath.

St James United ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-9245; 463 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h11am-4pm Tue & Thu, from 10am Fri & Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; mMcGill)

The excellent acoustics at St James United are coveted for organ and choir concerts as well as performances at the international jazz festival. The church was originally opened in 1889.

Illuminated CrowdMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1981 Ave McGill College; mMcGill)

Constructed of polyester resin, Raymond Mason’s sculpture of 65 people is one of Montréal’s most photographed pieces of public art. The work shows a rather dark side of humanity. A crowd of onlookers stands pressed tightly together. The first row merely looks off into the distance, while behind them, the mood gradually degenerates as figures show a range of emotions – melancholy, fear, lust, hatred and terror.

A fine vantage point is on the 'Secret Bench', an evocative sculpture by Lea Vivot on the other side of Rue McGill.

Place Ville-MarieNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.placevillemarie.com; 1 Pl Ville-Marie; mMcGill)

Known for its rotating rooftop beacon that illuminates downtown at night, the 42-story Place Ville-Marie tower marked the beginning of Montréal’s Underground City five decades ago. Its cruciform shape was chosen to commemorate Maisonneuve’s planting of a great cross on Mont-Royal in 1642. Today it houses some 75 shops and restaurants, as well as 10,000 occupants.

Rue Sherbrooke OuestSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel)

Until the 1930s the downtown stretch of Rue Sherbrooke Ouest was home to the Golden Square Mile, one of the richest residential neighborhoods in Canada. You’ll see a few glorious old homes along this drag, including the Reid Wilson House, the Louis-Joseph Forget House and the Mount Royal Club. There are good interpretation panels outside them explaining their history. The route is also home to visit-worthy churches, some first-rate museums and strings of energetic students en route to McGill University.

Square DorchesterSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel)

This leafy expanse in the heart of downtown was known until 1988 as Dominion Sq, a reminder of Canada’s founding in 1867. A Catholic cemetery was here until 1870 and bodies still lie beneath the grass. Events of all kinds have taken place here over the years – fashion shows, political rallies and royal visits.

The square still exudes the might of the British Empire, with statues of Boer War booster Lord Strathcona, Queen Victoria and poet Robert Burns, plus Wilfrid Laurier, Canada’s first francophone prime minister, who faces off a statue of John A Macdonald, the first anglophone prime minister, in Place du Canada across Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest. The city’s main tourist office lies on the square’s northwest side.

Rue Ste-Catherine OuestSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mPeel, McGill, Place-des-Arts)

Lively Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest is one endless orgy of shops, restaurants, bars and cafes on the hyperactive stretch between Rue Crescent and Rue St-Urbain. Shopping malls, department stores and multiplex cinemas are sprinkled along the way. Shoppers flood the streets on weekends, slowing pedestrian traffic to a mere shuffle.

Maison AlcanHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1188 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mPeel)

This mélange of four carefully restored 19th- and 20th-century buildings integrates the old Berkeley Hotel and four houses, including the Atholstan House, a Québec historic monument. To the rear is an intriguing atrium with a pretty garden. Also on the property stands the Emmanuel Congregation Church, which belongs to the Salvation Army.

The property was the symbolic headquarters of the Alcan aluminum concern (now part of Rio Tinto Alcan), before its sale in 2013 to Cirque de Soleil. According to rumor, the site may eventually be turned into a hotel and entertainment hall.

Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-MondeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1661; 1085 Rue de la Cathédrale; h7:30am-6:15pm; mBonaventure)F

The Cathedral of Mary Queen of the World is a smaller but still magnificent version of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The architects scaled it down to a quarter of its size, mindful of the structural risks of Montréal’s severe winters. This landmark was built from 1870 to 1894 as a symbol of Catholic power in the heart of Protestant Montréal.

The 13 statues of saints over the entrance are sculpted in wood and covered with copper; at night they are brilliantly illuminated. The neobaroque altar canopy, a replica of Bernini’s masterpiece in St Peter’s, is fashioned of gold leaf and copper with swirled roof supports.

Gare WindsorHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-5164; 1160 de la Gauchetière Ouest; mBonaventure)

The massive Victorian building hugging the slope west of the Marriott Château Champlain is the old Windsor Station, opened in 1889 as the headquarters of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Romanesque structure inspired a château style for train stations across the country; its architect, Bruce Price, would later build the remarkable Château Frontenac in Québec City.

Take a stroll through the restored Salle des pas perdus, a 25,000-sq-ft concourse, where millions of travelers once set off on train trips. Today, it's hauntingly vacant.

Place du CanadaPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Peel; mBonaventure)

This park immediately southeast of Sq Dorchester is best known for its monument of John A Macdonald, Canada’s first prime minister, who addressed the maiden session of parliament in Montréal. The two cannons around the base were captured in the Crimean War; if you look closely you’ll see the dual-headed eagle of Czar Nicholas I. The statue was decapitated by vandals in 1992 and the head vanished for two years.

Marché AtwaterMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 138 Ave Atwater; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mAtwater)

Just off the Canal de Lachine, this fantastic market has a mouthwatering assortment of fresh produce from local farms, excellent wines, crusty breads, fine cheeses and other delectable fare. The market’s specialty shops operate year-round, while outdoor stalls open from March to October. The excellent Première Moisson is a popular cafe and bakery. It’s all housed in a 1933 brick hall, topped with a clock tower. The grassy banks overlooking the nearby Canal de Lachine make a great spot for a picnic.

Parisian LaundryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-1056; www.parisianlaundry.com; 3550 Rue St-Antoine Ouest; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

A former industrial laundry turned monster (15,000-sq-ft) gallery, this space is worth a trip for the old building itself even if you’re not a fan of contemporary art. Recent exhibitions have included works by New York conceptual artist Adam Pendleton and Québec sculptor Valérie Blass. Be sure to check out exhibits upstairs and in the basement.

St Patrick’s BasilicaCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-7379; www.stpatricksmtl.ca; 454 Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest; h9am-6pm; mSquare-Victoria)

Built for Montréal’s booming Irish population in 1847, the interior of St Patrick’s Basilica contains huge columns from single pine trunks, an ornate baptismal font and nectar-colored stained-glass windows. The pope raised its status to basilica in 1989, in recognition of its importance to English-speaking Catholics in Montréal. It’s a sterling example of French-Gothic style and, as you might expect, is classified a national monument.

The Irish-Canadian patriot D’Arcy McGee was buried here after his assassination in 1868; his pew (number 240) is marked with a small Canadian flag.

Centre Canadien d'ArchitectureMUSEUM

(CCA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cca.qc.ca; 1920 Rue Baile; adult/child $10/free, 5:30-9pm Thu admission free; h11am-6pm Wed & Fri, to 9pm Thu, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mGeorgest-Vanier)

A must for architecture fans, this center is equal parts museum and research institute. The building incorporates the Shaughnessy House, a 19th-century gray limestone treasure. Highlights in this section include the conservatory and an ornate sitting room with intricate woodwork and a massive stone fireplace. The exhibition galleries focus on remarkable architectural works of both local and international scope, with a particular focus on urban design.

The CCA’s sculpture garden is located on a grassy lot overlooking south Montréal. There’s also a busy, well-stocked bookstore.

Montréal Canadiens Hall of FameMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-925-7777; www.hall.canadiens.com; 1909 Ave des Canadiens-de-Montréal; adult/child $11/8; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mLucien-L'Allier)

Hockey fans can pay their respects to one of the greatest teams in hockey history at this small hall-of-fame museum inside the Bell Centre. The hall contains jerseys, game sticks, photos, memorabilia and info on the sport dating back to the early 1900s. If you want a peek in the locker rooms, you can add a guided tour of the arena for an extra $6 (not available on game days).

If you have tickets to a hockey game, tickets to the hall of fame are just $6 on the same day.

2Neighborhood Walk
Downtown

Start Sq Dorchester

End Musée des Beaux-Arts

Length 2.5km, two hours

Start at 1Square Dorchester. The statue to the northeast is of Lord Strathcona, a philanthropist who sponsored Canada’s efforts in the South African Boer War. Wander south for a statue of Sir Wilfrid Laurier (1841–1919), one of Canada’s most respected prime ministers.

Walk northwest to the upscale shopping complex 2Les Cours Mont-Royal. The central atrium has bird sculptures with human heads and a chandelier from a Monte Carlo casino.

Cut through the building and continue up Rue Metcalf. Turn right on Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest and left on Ave McGill College. About 20m up the block on the right is the 3Illuminated Crowd sculpture. Designed by Raymond Mason, it illuminates the darker side of human nature. Head across Ave McGill College to the 4Secret Bench, a sensual work with a seated couple that provides a fine counterpoint to the unruly mob.

Continue on and turn left at Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montréal’s most prestigious residential street in the early 20th century. It features glorious old homes, including the 5Mount Royal Club, once an exclusive men-only club that now opens its doors to all.

Nearby, impressive 6Reid Wilson House is a mansion with its original carriage house in back. Continue along Sherbrooke; you’ll soon reach the 7Ritz-Carlton, which has a lavish afternoon tea in the Palm Court.

Further along Sherbrooke, you’ll pass fortress-like apartment complex 8Le Château, with vestiges of shell fossils in the limestone. Next door is a massive stone church with Tiffany stained-glass windows. It now houses the 9Salle Bourgie concert hall, part of the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal. End your tour with a look at the neoclassical facade of the museum's aMichal & Renata Hornstein Pavilion. Each symmetrical ionic column took six men three months to cut and shape with pneumatic hammers.

5Eating

oSatay BrothersASIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sataybrothers.com; 3721 Notre-Dame Ouest; mains $8-15; h11am-11pm Wed-Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

Amid red walls, hanging lamps and mismatched thrift-store furnishings, this lively and colorful spot serves some of the best 'street food' in Montréal. Crowds flock here to gorge on delicious chicken-satay sandwiches with peanut sauce served on grilled bread, tangy green papaya salad, braised pork (or tofu) buns, and laksa lemak, a rich and spicy coconut soup. It has great cocktails too.

The 30-something Winnicki brothers quickly gained a cult following after opening a food stall in Atwater market, which is still open in the summer.

Lola RosaVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-287-9337; www.lola-rosa.ca; 545 Rue Milton; mains $10-13; hnoon-9:30pm; v; mMcGill)

On a leafy street near McGill, students, professors and the odd neighborhood regular not associated with the university flock to this charming vegetarian cafe. Even skeptical carnivores are won over by plates of creamy rich lasagna, sweet-potato and coconut-milk curry, and nachos piled high with black beans, mozzarella, avocado and sour cream.

Fresh juices, decent coffee and decadent desserts (try the chocolate cake with raspberry coulis) complete the picture. Lola Rosa also hosts a popular weekend brunch. There's a second location in the Plateau.

ImadakeJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-931-8833; www.imadake.ca; 4006 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $6-15; hnoon-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-10:30pm nightly; mAtwater)

On the fringes of the Concordia Chinatown, Imadake is the closest thing to an authentic izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) in the city. Staff scream irrashaimase! (welcome!) when you walk in, and there’s an excellent assortment of izakaya standbys such as tsukune (chicken meatballs), takoyaki (octopus croquettes) and okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake with seafood or pork). The ramen noodles are excellent.

KazuJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1862 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $10-17; hnoon-3pm Sun, Mon & Wed-Fri, 5:30-9:30pm Wed-Mon; mGuy-Concordia)

Kazuo Akutsu’s frenetic hole-in-the-wall in the Concordia Chinatown draws long lines of people waiting for gyoza (dumplings), ramen noodle soup and awesome creations such as the 48-hour pork, attesting to its popularity.

ThaliINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thalimontreal.com; 1409 Rue St-Marc; mains $5-10; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat, 4-10pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

A popular budget gem in the Concordia Chinatown, Thali offers quick plates of delish Indian fare, with three-course specials for $8 to $10. The naan bread, butter chicken and lamb kebab are particularly delectable.

PatriceBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2360 Rue Notre Dame Ouest; pastries $3-5; h10:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-6:30pm Sat, 9:30am-5pm Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

This elegantly designed patisserie has a modern, Scandinavian-like design, which makes a fine backdrop to the heavenly creations prepared here. Perennial favorites: the Kouign Amman (a Breton-style butter cake), choux a la creme (a mix of chocolate, caramel and banana cream enclosed in pastries), and the chocolate-coffee St Henri cake. At lunch, you can get soup, salads and sandwiches.

Cafe AunjaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aunja.com; 1448 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; snacks $4-10; h10am-10pm; mGuy-Concordia)

Despite the location along busy Sherbrooke, Cafe Aunja feels like a peaceful oasis from the downtown bustle. Changing artwork adorns the brick walls of this Persian teahouse, and there's a regular lineup of readings and live music. A mix of book- and laptop-absorbed people and quietly chatting friends gather over creamy lattes and steaming pots of tea.

Sandwiches, salads and soups round out the menu.

BoustanLEBANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2020 Rue Crescent; mains $5-10; h11am-4am Mon-Sat, from 5pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

This friendly little Lebanese joint scores high in popularity on the city’s shwarma circuit because of its delicious toasted pita sandwiches. Its late hours make it a favorite with pub crawlers in need of sustenance between bars.

Pikolo Espresso BarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pikoloespresso.com; 3418b Ave du Parc; h7:45am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; W; mPlace-des-Arts)

Plateau hipsters roll up to this friendly split-level joint nestled in a heritage building at the bottom of Ave du Parc for its yummy baked goods and the signature drink, the Pikolo. Its ristretto shot of espresso goes down very smoothly indeed.

MyriadeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1432 Rue Mackay; h7:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

A few steps from Concordia, Myriade is a small student favorite for its perfectly pulled espressos and well-balanced lattes (with beans from 49th Parallel and Phil & Sebastien). There is no wi-fi, so it draws more conversationalists than MacBook users. The drawback: there's not a lot of seating.

oCafé ParvisBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-764-3589; www.cafeparvis.com; 433 Rue Mayor; small plates $6-8; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun; v; mPlace-des-Arts)

Hidden away on a quiet lane of downtown, Cafe Parvis is set with oversized windows, hanging plants, old wooden floorboards and vintage fixtures. Once part of the fur district, this cleverly repurposed room serves up delicious pizzas in inventive combinations (such as smoked salmon, fennel and mascarpone; or roasted vegetables with Gruyère).

These are matched by equally creative salads (such as beets, pears and goat's cheese). Dishes are small; you'll want to order a few.

oLe Vin PapillonINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinpapillon.com; 2519 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; small plates $7-17; h3pm-midnight Tue-Sat; v; mLionel-Groulx)

The folks behind Joe Beef continue the hit parade with this delightful wine bar and small-plate eatery next door to Liverpool House (another Joe Beef success). Creative, mouthwatering veggie dishes take top billing with favorites such as tomato and chickpea salad, sauteed chanterelles, or smoked eggplant caviar, along with roasted cauliflower with chicken skin, guinea-fowl confit, and charcuterie and cheese platters.

No reservations – so go early!

FoodlabINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-2033; www.sat.qc.ca/fr/foodlab; 3rd fl, 1201 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $15-25; h5-11pm Tue-Fri; mSt-Laurent)

On the upper floor of SAT, Foodlab is a creative culinary space, where the small menu changes every two weeks, and ranges across the globe. It's a casual but handsomely designed space, where patrons perch on bar stools, sipping creative cocktails and watching fast-moving chefs in the open kitchen.

There's outdoor seating in the summer and a yurt set up in the winter.

Le Balsam InnITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-507-9207; www.lebalsaminn.com; 1237 Rue Metcalfe; small plates $12-18; h11:30am-midnight Tue-Fri, from 4:30pm Sat & Sun; mPeel)

A charming addition to the downtown dining scene, Le Balsam Inn serves up delectable plates of Italian fare, with standouts such as citrus-drizzled calamari, osso buco with polenta, and pasta with pancetta and parmesan. It's also a great spot for an evening (or afternoon) libation with a good wine selection and well-executed cocktails.

It has a warm, old-time ambience with wood-paneled walls and a long candle-lined bar.

FurusatoJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-3438; 2137 Rue de Bleury; mains $16-34; hnoon-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-9:30pm Tue-Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

This humble eatery presents some of the most authentic Japanese in town. Ultrafresh sushi, decent sake, shrimp and vegetable tempura, sukiyaki and grilled horse mackerel (hokke) are some of the stars of the menu, along with black-sesame ice cream for dessert. Reservations recommended.

Le TajINDIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-9015; www.restaurantletaj.com; 2077 Rue Stanley; mains $18-23; h11:30am-2:30pm Sun-Fri, 5-10:30pm daily; v; mPeel)

Le Taj throws down the gauntlet for some excellent Indian dishes. The time to go is at lunch, when downtowners line up for a succulent buffet ($16) featuring a bounty of rich flavors from the East – tandoori chicken, vegetable korma, palaak paneer and tender lamb, along with steaming piles of naan bread, custard-like desserts and many other temptations.

Bistro IsakayaJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-8226; www.bistroisakaya.com; 3469 Ave du Parc; mains $19-26; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 5:30-9pm Sun; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80 or 129)

This authentic, unpretentious Japanese restaurant has fairly simple decor but the fish is incredibly fresh. The owner, Shige Minagawa, is known for handpicking his seafood and preparing it in classic Japanese fashion.

PhayathaiTHAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-933-9949; 1235 Rue Guy; mains $15-20; h11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Tue-Sun; v; mGuy-Concordia)

Just off the beaten track, this elegant little restaurant serves some of the best Thai cuisine in town. Fresh-tasting curries, crispy boneless duck and seafood plates are among the many delicacies from the East.

Mango BayCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-7082; www.mangobay.ca; 1202 Rue Bishop; mains $13-20; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight Sat, 5-10pm Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

Situated in a converted Victorian house with pretty stained-glass windows, Mango Bay serves up authentic chicken jerky or stew, curried goat or island chicken fajitas with a terrific side order of plantain. Watch out for the incendiary hot sauces, and be sure to save room for a slice of the signature mango cheesecake or rum cake.

Reuben’sDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1029; 1116 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mains $10-21; h6:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun; mPeel)

A classic, long-running deli, Reuben’s has squishy booths and a long counter, where patrons line up for towering smoked-meat sandwiches served with big-cut fries. Burgers, smoked pork chops and other old-school favorites round out the menu. Try to avoid the busy lunch rush.

Joe BeefQUéBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-6504; www.joebeef.ca; 2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; mains $29-50; h6pm-late Tue-Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

In the heart of the Little Burgundy neighborhood, Joe Beef is the current darling of food critics for its unfussy, market-fresh fare. The rustic, country-kitsch setting is a great spot to linger over fresh oysters, braised rabbit, roasted scallops with smoked onions and a changing selection of hearty Québecois dishes – all served with good humor and a welcome lack of pretension.

In summer, some of the best seats are in the backyard garden. Reserve weeks in advance.

JatobaASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-1184; www.jatobamontreal.com; 1184 Pl Phillips; mains $24-39; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-3am Sat; v; mMcGill)

Celebrated chef Antonio Park is behind the menu at this artfully designed space just off Pl Phillips. Park, who was born to Korean parents but grew up in South America and went to cooking school in Japan brilliantly melds flavors from around the globe.

Yellowfin sashimi with Asian pear and jalapeño, king oyster mushrooms in a sweet miso gratin, and beef tataki with truffle peaches and puffed quinoa are among the outstanding dishes.

Ferreira CaféPORTUGUESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-0988; www.ferreiracafe.com; 1446 Rue Peel; mains $26-45; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-11pm Mon-Wed, 5:30pm-midnight Thu-Sat, 5:30-10pm Sun; mPeel)

This warm and inviting restaurant serves some of Montréal’s best Portuguese fare. The cataplana (a bouillabaisse-style seafood stew) is magnificent, tender morsels of grilled fish come to the table cooked to perfection, while meat-lovers can feast on rack of lamb or spice-rubbed Angus rib-eye steak. Late diners can enjoy three-course, $24 meals from 10pm to close.

THE UNDERGROUND CITY

Brilliant marketing that conjures up images of subterranean skyscrapers and roads has made the underground city one of the first things visitors seek out when they travel to Montréal.

The underground city doesn’t actually have any of these things. What it does have is a network of some 2600 shops, 200 restaurants and 40-odd cinemas, theaters and exhibition halls, all hidden neatly beneath the surface in more than 30km of tunnels and underground spaces. For most travelers, it’s a major letdown, because no matter what tourism officials call it, it is basically just a kind of colossal network of interlocking shopping malls. Where it does get interesting, however, is for residents living in downtown Montréal, as it gives them a reprieve from winter – hundreds of thousands use it every day of the year.

The 60-odd distinct complexes that make up this network are linked by brightly lit, well-ventilated corridors; fountains play to maintain humidity and the temperature hovers around 20°C. Add the metro and you have a self-contained world, shielded from the subarctic temperatures. If you move to Montréal and pick the right apartment building, it could literally be the middle of winter and you would be able to go to work, do your grocery shopping, go see a movie and take in a performance at Place des Arts and never need more than a T-shirt.

6Drinking & Nightlife

BeneluxMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brasseriebenelux.com; 245 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h2pm-3am Sat-Wed, from 11am Thu & Fri; W; mPlace-des-Arts)

Benelux deserves high praise for its beautifully crafted microbrews, with a dozen or so offerings on hand (including one cask ale). Options rotate regularly, though long-time favorites are always on hand, such as Sabotage IPA and the blond Lux. Knowledgeable bartenders are happy to guide you in the right direction.

You can match those drafts with panini or Benelux's famed 'EuroDog' juicy veal or pork hot dog, garnished with sauerkraut and served on baguette.

BiiruBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-903-1555; 1433 Rue City Councillors; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Thu, 5.30-11pm Fri & Sat; mMcGill)

Despite the name, this colorfully designed izakaya doesn't serve much biiru (beer). What it does have: creative cocktails, tasty snacks and a festive environment that draws the afterwork crowd. You can nibble on gyoza (dumplings), duck magret salad or mushroom okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake), while admiring the Hokusai-inspired mural and engaging in the discreet art of people-watching.

FurcoCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-764-3588; www.barfurco.com; 425 Rue Mayor; h4pm-3am; mPlace-des-Arts)

In a previous life, this stylish, but industrial hideaway was a fur factory, and its raw concrete pillars, copper bar and modular light fixtures form the backdrop to a buzzing eating and drinking scene just a short stroll from Place-des-Arts. You'll find well-crafted cocktails and upmarket snacks (come for $1 oysters on Sundays and Mondays).

Heartier fare includes seared cod or pork and mushroom dumplings. Come early to beat the crowds.

Bleury Bar à VinyleBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinylebleury.ca; 2109 Rue de Bleury; h7pm-3am Tue, from 8pm Wed-Thu, 9pm-3am Fri & Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

It's in a bit of a nightlife desert, but this cozy lounge-like space is well worth the trip if you're into music. A blend of DJs and live bands mix things up, with a packed calendar of soul, funk, new-wave disco, world beats and house music. Bleury Bar draws a young, friendly crowd and the cocktails are first-rate.

There's a small cover charge (most nights around $4 to $7), though Tuesdays are free.

oDominion Square TavernTAVERN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dominiontavern.com; 1245 Rue Metcalfe; h11:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 4:30pm-midnight Sat & Sun; mPeel)

Once a down-and-out watering hole dating from the 1920s, this beautifully renovated tavern recalls a classic French bistro but with a long bar, English pub–style. Executive chef Éric Dupuis puts his own spin on pub grub, with mussels cooked with bacon, and smoked trout salad with curry dressing.

PullmanBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-7779; www.pullman-mtl.com; 3424 Ave du Parc; h4:30pm-midnight; mPlace-des-Arts)

This beautifully designed wine bar is a favorite haunt of the 30-something set. It’s primarily a restaurant, but the downstairs bar of this two-level space gets jammed (or jammé, as they say in Franglais) after work and becomes quite a pickup spot, so be prepared to engage in some flirting. Knowledgeable staff can help you choose from the sprawling wine list.

oBurgundy LionPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-0888; www.burgundylion.com; 2496 Rue de Notre-Dame Ouest; h11:30am-3am Mon-Fri, 9am-3am Sat & Sun; mLionel-Groulx)

This trendy take on the English pub features British pub fare, beers and whiskies galore, and an attitude-free vibe where everyone (and their parents) feels welcome to drink, eat and be merry. Things get the good kind of crazy late-night weekends. Tip your cap to Queen Elizabeth, whose portrait adorns the bathroom door.

McKibbin’sPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-1580; www.mckibbinsirishpub.com; 1426 Rue Bishop; h11:30am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

With its garage-sale furniture, McKibbin’s cultivates a familiar, down-at-heel pub atmosphere. Its live entertainment varies from Celtic and pop to punk music. The office crowd pops in at lunchtime for burgers, chicken wings and salads.

NYKSPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-1787; www.nyks.ca; 1250 Rue de Bleury; h11am-3am Mon-Fri, 4pm-3am Sat; mPlace-des-Arts)

Its artsy-chic vibe makes this warm bistro pub the preferred lunch and after-work spot of Plateau cool kids who happen to work in downtown offices. Daily happy hours and pub finger-foods are a joy to downtowners seeking an authentic experience. Sometimes it even has live jazz.

UpstairsJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-931-6808; www.upstairsjazz.com; 1254 Rue Mackay; h11:30am-1am Mon-Fri, 5:30pm-2am Sat, 6:30pm-1am Sun; mGuy-Concordia)

This slick downtown bar hosts quality jazz and blues acts nightly, featuring both local and touring talent. The walled terrace behind the bar is enchanting at sunset, and the dinner menu features inventive salads and meals such as the Cajun bacon burger.

BrutopiaBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brutopia.net; 1219 Rue Crescent; h2pm-3am Sat-Thu, noon-3am Fri; mGuy-Concordia)

This fantastic brewpub has eight varieties of suds on tap, including honey beer, nut brown and the more challenging raspberry blonde. The brick walls and wood paneling are conducive to chats among the relaxed student crowd. Live blues bands play nightly (from 10pm). It really picks up after the night classes from nearby Concordia get out.

Hurley’s Irish PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-4111; www.hurleysirishpub.com; 1125 Rue Crescent; h11am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This cozy place on bar-lined Rue Crescent features live rock and fiddling Celtic folk on the rear stage and beer-soaked football and soccer matches on big-screen TVs. Classic pub grub – Irish lamb stew, fish ‘n’ chips and burgers – is also served.

Le Vieux Dublin Pub & RestaurantPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-861-4448; www.dublinpub.ca; 636 Rue Cathcart; h11am-3am Mon-Sat, 4pm-3am Sun; mMcGill)

The city’s oldest Irish pub has the expected great selection of brews (from $7 to $9 per pint) and live Celtic or pop music nightly. Curries rub shoulders with burgers on the menu. It has 50 single-malts.

Pub Ste-ÉlisabethPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ste-elisabeth.com; 1412 Rue Ste-Élisabeth; h4pm-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

Tucked off a side street, this handsome little pub is frequented by many for its heavenly vine-covered courtyard and drinks menu with a great selection of beers, whiskies and ports. It has a respectable lineup of beers on tap, including imports and microbrewery fare such as Boréale Noire and Cidre Mystique.

Sir Winston Churchill PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.winniesbar.com; 1455 Rue Crescent; h11:30am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This Rue Crescent staple is the go-to spot of the block. Winnie’s cavernous, split-level pub draws a steady crowd of tourists and students and an older Anglo crowd. Among multiple bars, pool tables and pulsating music, meals are served all day and happy-hour drink specials abound.

Club SodaLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-286-1010; www.clubsoda.ca; 1225 Blvd St-Laurent; adult/student $5/3; h9pm-3am; mSt-Laurent)

This venerable club hosts some of the city’s most eclectic bands. Up-and-coming indie-rock, punk, metal, country and hip-hop groups have all taken the stage, as have well-known stars like Bebel Gilberto and Rufus Wainwright. There are also tribute nights (to Pink Floyd, the Doors, Italian metal bands), evenings of comedy, and the odd Muay Thai match.

Check the website to see what's on.

House of JazzJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-8656; www.houseofjazz.ca; 2060 Rue Aylmer; h4-11:30pm Mon, 11:30am-1:30am Tue-Fri, 5pm-1:30am Sat & Sun; mMcGill)

Formerly known as Biddle’s, this mainstream-but-excellent jazz club and restaurant changed names when owner-bassist Charlie Biddle passed away in 2003. Today, Southern-style cuisine and live jazz are on the menu daily. Prepare to wait if you haven’t reserved. Cover is $5 to $12.

Concerts happen at 7:30pm from Sunday to Thursday and at 6:30pm and 9:30pm on Friday and Saturday.

MONTRéAL BY BIXI

Montréal is one of the most bike-friendly cities in North America, with hundreds of kilometers of bicycle paths across the city. In 2009 the city unveiled Bixi, an extensive network of bike-renting stations around town, with bikes available from mid-April through October. For short jaunts, it’s great value (24-hour/72-hour subscription fee is $5/12; bikes are free the first 45 minutes and $1.75 for the next 15 minutes). If you're just going to use it once for a quick jaunt, opt for the one-way trip – which, at $2.75 costs less than a bus fare. The network includes more than 5000 bikes scattered around 400 stations. Bixi has since inspired bike-rental systems in other cities, including London and New York City.

Checking out a bike from a stand is easy. Just insert a credit card and follow the instructions. The majority of Bixi stands display a network map showing other docking stations across the city. Once you dock the bike, you must wait two minutes before checking out another one. Just reinsert your credit card and go. (Bixi tallies up the charges at the end of a 24-hour period. As long as you always return a bike within 45 minutes, you’ll only be charged the one-time fare.) Although the bikes are fine for short hops, the pricing structure discourages longer trips (it costs $1.75 for 45- to 60-minutes of usage, $3.50 for the next 30 minutes and $7 for every 30 minutes thereafter). If you’re planning a long day’s outing along the Canal de Lachine, it’s better to rent from a bike shop.

3Entertainment

Place des ArtsPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 514-842-2112; www.placedesarts.com; 175 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Montréal’s premier music venue, the storied Place des Arts is at the heart of the growing Quartier des Spectacles.

L’AstralMUSIC VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sallelastral.com; 305 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPlace-des-Arts)

Recent renovations to the century-old Blumenthal Building have added another venue to Montréal’s jazz fest as part of the Quartier des Spectacles. With more than 300 seats and standing room for 600, L’Astral nestles in the Maison du Festival Rio Tinto Alcan, which also houses Le Balmoral, a jazz club and bistro with a patio on the ground floor.

Monument NationalPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-2224; www.monumentnational.com; 1182 Blvd St-Laurent; mSt-Laurent)

Québec's oldest theater still in use, the grand Monument National opened in 1893, and has been showing a wide range of cultural fare ever since. Shows here run the gamut from Molière to Sam Shepard, with acting, directing and technical production performed by graduating students of the National Theatre School.

True to the city's bilingual roots, the theater stages works in both French and English. There are two halls, one with 800 seats, the other with 150. The smaller theater stages about three original works a year by student playwrights. Comedy and modern dance are also part of the repertoire.

Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de MontréalDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-2112; www.grandsballets.qc.ca; Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

You can be assured of a treat if you see Québec’s leading ballet troupe. As well as staging six shows per season (October through May) annually in Montréal at various venues, the dancers head off on several international tours per year. Its classical and modern programs are both innovative and accessible.

Recent hits include adaptations of The Little Prince and Anna Karenina as well as more traditional fare such as Don Quixote. Check the website for details.

Orchestre Symphonique de MontréalCLASSICAL MUSIC

(OSM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-9951; www.osm.ca/en; 1600 Rue St-Urbain, Maison Symphonique, Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

This internationally renowned orchestra plays to packed audiences in its Place des Arts base, the Maison Symphonique de Montréal, a venue with spectacular acoustics that was inaugurated in 2011. The OSM’s Christmas performance of The Nutcracker is legendary.

Rock-star conductor Kent Nagano, a Californian with a leonine mane and stellar credentials, took over as music director in 2006 and has proven very popular. Check for free concerts at the Basilique Notre-Dame, the Olympic Stadium and in municipal parks in the Montréal area.

Cinéma du ParcCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-1900; www.cinemaduparc.com; 3575 Ave du Parc; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80)

Located in the lower level of the Galeries du Parc complex, Montréal’s English-language repertory cinema is a tried-and-true favorite of Plateau cinephiles. It shows cult classics as well as cool new releases and lots of foreign films. Despite the shabby decor, its charm and authenticity add to the cinematic experience.

Cinéma Banque Scotia MontréalCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cineplex.com; 977 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; mPeel)

This entertainment monstrosity features crowds darting through junk-food kiosks amid a riot of flashing lights and booming sounds to get to the IMAX megascreens. One step up from IMAX, is the D-Box cinema, where movie-goers can feel vibrations in their seats, which sync to the action and audio on screen. Hollywood blockbusters are the general fare at this multilevel cinema.

MetropolisLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-3500; www.montrealmetropolis.ca; 59 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mSt-Laurent)

Housed in a former art-deco cinema, this beautiful old space (capacity 2300) has featured everyone from indie rockers Interpol to blues legend Buddy Guy to local favorite Jean Leloup. It’s sometimes used as a party or rave venue with DJs and dancing. Buy tickets at the box office (1413 Rue St-Dominique) around the corner.

Pollack Concert HallCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mcgill.ca/music; 555 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mMcGill)

McGill University’s main music hall features concerts and recitals from its students and faculty, notably the McGill Chamber Orchestra. It’s in the stately 19th-century building behind the statue of Queen Victoria.

SATARTS CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-2033; www.sat.qc.ca; 1195 Blvd St-Laurent; mSt-Laurent)

Officially called La Société des Arts Technologiques, this slick warehouse and new-media space hosts a range of thought-provoking fare. The 360-degree Satosphere shows cutting-edge audiovisual works, while the Espace Sat stages technology-driven exhibitions and the odd theater troupe and performing artist. Also on-site (on the third floor, next to the Satosphere) is Foodlab, a creative eating and drinking venue.

Throughout the year, SAT holds the occasional party night. DJs and performance artists push the envelope with banks of multimedia installations, while an arty, electro-loving fan base dance and carouse.

I Musici de MontréalCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-982-6038; www.imusici.com; 279 Rue Sherbrooke Est; mSt-Laurent)

Under the leadership of Jean-Marie Zeitouni, this 12-member chamber ensemble has won many awards for its baroque and contemporary performances. Over the past 20 years I Musici has recorded more than 30 CDs and toured the world. They play in a variety of venues, including the Chapelle Historique du Bon-Pasteur.

Opéra de MontréalOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-985-2258; www.operademontreal.com; Pl des Arts; mPlace-des-Arts)

Holds lavish stage productions in the Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier that feature big names from Québec and around the world. The repertoire includes four or five operas each year, with a focus on classics such as Madame Butterfly, The Barber of Seville and Turandot, as well as contemporary works – such as the Pulitzer Prize–winning Silent Night, which premiered in 2011.

Translations (French and English) are run on a video screen above the stage. Tickets cost around $49 to $121 during the week and slightly more on Saturday.

Orchestre MétropolitainCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-2112; www.orchestremetropolitain.com; 1600 Rue St-Urbain; mPlace-des-Arts)

This hip 60-member orchestra is comprised of young professional musicians from all over Québec, and led by conductor Yannick Nézet-Séguin. The orchestra’s mission is to democratize classical music, so aside from playing inside the swish Maison Symphonique at Place des Arts, you may see the orchestra playing Mahler or Haydn in churches or colleges in the city’s poorest neighborhoods for reduced admission.

Ticket prices start at $33 ($29 for those age 34 and under, and just $12 for youths).

SalsathèqueDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-0016; www.salsatheque.ca; 1220 Rue Peel; h10pm-3am Thu-Sat; mPeel)

This bright, busy, dressy place presents large live salsa bands pumping out tropical rhythms. The Latin community (and their admirers) come out in droves to tear up the dance floor. When you need a break, you can refuel with a margarita while watching the 25-to-50s crowd gyrate into exhaustion.

SharxBILLIARDS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-3105; www.sharx.ca; 1606 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h11am-3am; mGuy-Concordia)

This underground cavern has no fewer than 25 billiard tables amid a vaguely club-like setting, with loud pumping music, low lighting and an industrial design. The 10-lane bowling alley is bathed in fluorescent light with glowing balls and pins. It draws a younger crowd – though not too young; it's age 18 and up. There's also a golf simulator.

Foufounes ÉlectriquesLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.foufouneselectriques.com; 87 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h4pm-3am; mSt-Laurent)

A one-time bastion of the alternafreak, this cavernous quintessential punk venue still stages some wild music nights (rockabilly, ska, metal), plus the odd one-off (a night of pro-wrestling or an indoor skateboarding contest). On weekends the student-grunge crowd plays pool and quaffs brews with electro kids and punk stragglers. DJ nights range from free to $8. Concerts cost $10 to $25.

WORTH A DETOUR

WANDERING IN WESTMOUNT

Though short on traditional sights, the leafy, upper-class neighborhood of Westmount makes for a good afternoon stroll. Here you’ll find a mix of sleepy backstreets set with Victorian mansions and manicured parks (parts of the city were named a national historic site in 2012), while the main boulevard, Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, has high-end boutiques, cafes and bistros. Wander about and grab a bite while you’re there.

The town’s highlight is Westmount Park & Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-5300; 4575 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mAtwater). The lovely Westmount Park encompasses pathways, streams and concealed nooks that recall the whimsical nature of English public gardens. The Westmount Public Library, built in 1899, stands stolid, with its Romanesque brickwork, leaded glass and delightful bas-reliefs dedicated to wisdom. The attached Westmount Conservatory is a gorgeous 1927 greenhouse where time stands still among the orchids.

Walking northwest from Westmount Park, you’ll pass increasingly large and expensive homes as you climb to Summit Woods and Summit Lookout, a 57-acre forest and bird sanctuary atop the hill of Westmount with a belvedere commanding views of the St Lawrence River. Following Summit Circle road and Chemin Belvedere, you can soon walk to Parc du Mont-Royal and Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-Neiges.

Back down along Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, the faux medieval towers of Westmount City Hall ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-989-5200; 4333 Côte St-Antoine; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri; mVendôme then bus 104) come as a surprise after the skyscrapers of downtown. This Tudor gatehouse in rough-hewn stone looks like something from an English period drama. A lawn-bowling green lies in the rear.

For a bite to eat, sidewalk cafes and window-shopping, take a stroll along the boutique-lined Avenue Greene to the northeast of Westmount City Hall. Westmount Square ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Greene & Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest; mAtwater) is a chic 1966 mall by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.

For a bite to eat, stop in Chez Nick ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-0946; www.cheznick.ca; 1377 Ave Greene; mains $10-16; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; mAtwater), a classic diner on Ave Greene that's been going strong since 1920.

7Shopping

Henri HenriFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.henrihenri.ca; 189 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mSt-Laurent)

Going strong since 1932, this classy millinery sells an impressive assortment of hats, including top global brands such as Stetson, Akubra and Kangol, as well as the Henri Henri house brand. You'll also find gloves, scarves, suspenders and other gentlemanly attire.

Curious historical footnote: between 1950 and 1970, Henri Henri used to award a free hat to a hockey player who scored three goals or more in a match at the Montréal forum – and hence the origin of the term 'hat trick'.

Candy LabsFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.candylabs.ca; 2305 Rue Guy; h11am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri; mGuy-Concordia)

Head to this bright little shop for jewel-like hard candy. You can watch the candy makers in action since these artful sweets are made onsite, and then packaged in pretty glass jars that make great gifts. There are some 40 flavors available, and the friendly staff are happy to let you sample a wide assortment.

Salvation ArmyCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1620 Rue Notre Dame Ouest; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; mLucien l'Allier)

This sprawling secondhand store has seemingly endless racks of clothes, plus 99¢ books (French and English), records, sports gear (including skis and snowboards) and more.

Holt RenfrewDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-5111; www.holtrenfrew.com; 1300 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Sun; mPeel)

This Montréal institution is a godsend for label-conscious, cashed-up professionals and upscale shoppers. From fragrances to cosmetics, jewelry and men’s and women’s fashion, Holt’s is the go-to spot for prestigious brands such as Gucci and Prada. Services include personal shoppers and concierges, and the excellent Holts Café.

Les Cours Mont-RoyalMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lcmr.ca; 1455 Rue Peel; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mPeel)

This elegant shopping mall is a reincarnation of the Mount Royal Hotel (1922), at the time the largest hotel in the British Empire. The 1000-room hotel was converted into a snazzy mix of condos and fashion boutiques in 1988. You’ll find designer names like Ursula B, DKNY and Desigual among the boutiques here.

Under the skylight you’ll see various birdman sculptures by Inuit artist David Pioukuni. The spectacular chandelier is from Monte Carlo’s old casino.The attractive atrium food court is also a notch above most mall eateries, with sushi, Thai, Tex-Mex and other options on hand.

Hudson Bay CoDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-4422; www.thebay.com; 585 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h10am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-7pm Sat; mMcGill)

La Baie, as it’s called in French, found fame three centuries ago for its striped wool blankets used to measure fur skins. The unique blankets are still available, in wool and fleece, on the ground floor. Take the escalators to reach the clothing boutiques, where you can find all the top labels (Theory, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, John Varvatos).

Prices are high, though periodic sales can lead to some great deals.

Eva BVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.eva-b.ca; 2015 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mSt-Laurent)

Stepping into this graffiti-smeared building on St-Laurent, is like entering a theater’s backstage with a riot of fur coats, bowling shirts, cowboy boots, leather jackets, wigs, suede handbags, summer dresses, wildly patterned sweaters and denim of all shapes and sizes. There's lots of junk, but prices are low, and you can probably unearth a few treasures if you have the time.

The setting itself is a slice of urban wilderness, with a rocking soundtrack, bras dangling from the ceiling, rooms overflowing with books, and broken typewriters and giant stuffed animals among the clothing and knickknacks. There's also a cafe (with coffee, baked goods, samosas and salads).

Les Antiquités Grand CentralANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-1467; www.grandcentralinc.ca; 2448 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; mLionel-Groulx)

The most elegant store on Rue Notre-Dame’s Antique Row is a pleasure to visit for its English and continental furniture, lighting and decorative objects from the 18th and 19th centuries. Get buzzed in to see the Louis XIV chairs, full dining-room suites and chandeliers in Dutch cathedral or French Empire style, with price tags in the thousands.

RootsFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-7995; www.canada.roots.com; 1035 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mPeel)

One of Canada's best known home-grown brands, Roots started off as a humble shoemaker in the '70s. Now its range includes Roots for kids, Roots athletics, leather and home accessories. Tastes are accessible and geared to teens and 20-somethings; they are fashionable and at times even innovative.

Place Montréal TrustMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.placemontrealtrust.com; 1500 Ave McGill College; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mMcGill)

One of downtown’s most successful malls, with enough rays from the skylights to keep shoppers on their day clock. Major retailers here include La Senza lingerie, Indigo books, Winners and Zara. It has a tremendous water fountain with a spout 30m high, and during the holidays a Christmas tree illuminates the five-story space.

2Cycling Tour
Cycling the Canal de Lachine

Start Canal Locks

End Canal Locks

Length 7km; two hours

The prettiest cycle path in Montréal stretches along the Canal de Lachine. On warm days you'll see sunbathers on the grass, families at picnic tables, and cyclists and in-line skaters gliding along.

Start at the 1Canal locks at the southwestern end of the Old Port. This area has an industrial feel thanks to the abandoned grain silo southeast of the locks.

Pedaling southwest along Rue de la Commune Ouest, you’ll pass under Autoroute 10. Continue along the downtown side of the canal, lined with strips of greenery. The enormous neon sign 2Farine Five Roses crowns a former flour mill.

The path switches sides at the bridge at Rue des Seigneurs, where you come to a 3former silk mill that ran its operations on hydraulic power from the canal. The red-brick factory has been reborn as lofts.

Continue south on Rue Shearer and turn right on Rue Centre. You’ll come to Romanesque 4Église St-Charles on your right. Push your bike over to French-style Église St-Gabriel, taking in the charm of this little-visited neighborhood.

Cycle to Rue Charlevoix, turn right and you’ll soon be on the bike path again. Turn left, and you’ll come to 5H2O Adventures, a kayak-rental outfit. If you’re interested in getting out on the water, this is the place to do it.

Continue on the bike path and turn right at the pedestrian bridge to head to 6Marché Atwater, one of the city’s best markets. Assemble a picnic here to enjoy by the water, followed by an easy pedal back to the port. If you want to explore further, head west. Another 10km along the path will take you to a sculpture garden at the edge of scenic Lac St-Louis – a favorite spot at sunset. To head back, simply follow the canal path back to the Canal Locks.

2Sports & Activities

Montréal CanadiensHOCKEY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-932-2582; www.canadiens.com; 1200 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest, Bell Centre; tickets $54-277; mBonaventure)

The Canadiens of the National Hockey League have won the Stanley Cup 24 times. Although the team has struggled in recent years, Montréalers have a soft spot for the ‘Habs’ and matches at the Bell Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-668-8269, 514-790-2525; www.centrebell.ca; 1909 Ave des Canadiens-de-Montréal) sell out routinely. Scalpers hang around the entrance on game days, and you might snag a half-price ticket after the puck drops.

Bring your binoculars for the rafter seats. The center also hosts big-name concerts, boxing matches, Disney on Ice and visits by the Dalai Lama.

Montréal AlouettesFOOTBALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-2255; www.montrealalouettes.com; Ave des Pins Ouest, Molson Stadium; tickets from $29; mMcGill)

The Montréal Alouettes, a star franchise of the Canadian Football League, folded several times before going on to win the league’s Grey Cup trophy in 2002, 2009 and 2010. Rules are a bit different from American football: the field is bigger and there are only three downs. Games are held at McGill University’s Molson Stadium and sometimes at the Stade Olympique.

Purchase advance tickets online or at Molson Stadium. On game day, there are free shuttles from Square-Victoria and McGill metro stations.

My BicycletteBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-317-6306; www.mybicyclette.com; 2985 Rue St-Patrick; bicycle per hour/day from $10/30; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm Sat mid-Apr–Oct; mCharlevoix)

Located along the Canal de Lachine (just across the bridge from the Atwater market), this place rents bikes and other gear during the warmer months. It also sponsors city bike tours, and the repair shop next door is a good place to go if your bike conks out on the Lachine Canal path.

AtriumSKATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-395-0555; www.le1000.com; 1000 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest; adult/child $7.50/5, skate rentals $7; h11:30am-6pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Fri, 12:30-9pm Sat & Sun; mBonaventure)

Enjoy year-round indoor ice skating at this excellent glass-domed rink near Gare Centrale. On weekends, kids and their families have a special session from 11am to 12:30pm. Special events change regularly – such as the summertime ‘Bermudas Madness,’ a cheesy good time of skating in shorts and T-shirts while DJs spin Hawaiian and summer-inflected beats.

Call for operating hours as the schedule changes frequently.

Ashtanga Yoga StudioYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-875-9642; www.ashtangamontreal.com; ste 118, 372 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; 1½-hr class $17; mPlace-des-Arts)

Ashtanga, also known as ‘power’ yoga, is an intense, aerobic form of the exercise. This professional center has big, bright studios, very friendly staff and offers 30-plus classes for all age groups and skill levels. Multiclass discount cards available (five classes $75). It's located inside the gallery-filled Belgo building.

Quartier Latin & the Village

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Quartier Latin & the Village

Neighborhood Top Five

1Sipping un café, beer or whiskey and soaking up the bohemian atmosphere on colorful Rue St-Denis.

2Letting it all hang out while partying until dawn at one of the many bars and clubs in the Village.

3Admiring the neo-Gothic interior of Église St-Pierre Apôtre and its moving chapel dedicated to AIDS victims.

4Stepping back in time to the 1920s at the Écomusée du Fier Monde, for a glimpse of life in working-class Montréal.

5Catching a cutting-edge show at Usine C, followed by drinks and tapas at Le C.

Explore Quartier Latin & the Village

The boisterous district of Quartier Latin and the Village is fairly compact and easy to explore in an afternoon with the option to kick back and party into the night. Start at Rue Sherbrooke and Rue St-Denis and explore the latter to Rue Ste-Catherine. Be sure to pause for a beverage or snack as you go.

St-Denis picks up at night when local watering holes, restaurants and clubs attract students and other bons vivants who come together over beer and bouffe (food). It’s best to do a bit of roaming and absorb the free-spirited energy of the quarter. If you want to take a breather during the day, try Carré St-Louis, north of Rue Sherbrooke and off Rue St-Denis, or Place Émilie-Gamelin along Rue Ste-Catherine.

One of the hottest gay meccas in North America, the Village is quiet during the day, but starts to pick up around 9pm. Packed with eclectic eateries, shops and nightspots, Rue Ste-Catherine is the main thoroughfare here, so it’s easy to navigate. August is the most frenetic time as international visitors gather to celebrate Divers/Cité, the massive annual Gay Pride parade.

A colorful residential street in Montréal’s Quartier LatinCHRIS CHEADLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Local Life

AEating out Even starving artists need fuel. Rue St-Denis has some casual-eating brasseries such as Le Saint-Bock, but the best options, such as Kitchenette, are further afield.

ANightlife Start your evening with a drink on Rue St-Denis, then mosey over to the Village for a floorshow in drag at Cabaret Mado and let the night unfold.

AFestivals The Montréal World Film Festival (%514-848-3883; www.ffm-montreal.org) and Montréal Pride (www.fiertemontrealpride.com) make this neighborhood nearly as festive as Downtown on Montréal’s celebration circuit.

Getting There & Away

AMetro The orange and green lines run to Berri-UQAM, with the green line continuing to Beaudry and Papineau.

ABus Bus 24 runs along Rue Sherbrooke, the 30 along Rue St-Denis and Rue Berri, and the 15 along Rue Ste-Catherine. The Station Centrale bus terminal (www.stationcentrale.com) is a hub for intercity and international coach services.

AWalking It’s relatively easy to reach the Quartier Latin from either Downtown or Plateau Mont-Royal, and you can also stroll along Rue Ste-Catherine to the Village.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Ma'Tine

A Le Grain de Sel

A Kitchenette

A Au Petit Extra

A O’Thym

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Le Cheval Blanc

A B1 Bar

A L’Île Noire

A Le Saint Sulpice

A Le Saint-Bock

Best Entertainment

For reviews, see Click here

A Usine C

A Théâtre St-Denis

A Cabaret Mado

Best Places to Shop

For reviews, see Click here

A Camellia Sinensis

A Zéphyr

A Archambault

TOP SIGHT

Rue St-Denis

Rue St-DenisYVES MARCOUX/GETTY IMAGES ©

One of the few streets to cross the entire island of Montréal, Rue St-Denis coalesces in four blocks below Rue Sherbrooke – a carnivalesque collection of restaurants, brasseries, cafes and arts venues. It captures the heart of francophone Montréal, just as St-Laurent was once the preferred hangout of Anglos. This is where you’ll find students from nearby Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM) grabbing a pint after protesting tuition hikes, or big-name US comics doing stand up at Théâtre St-Denis. It’s a heady mix best enjoyed with a drink in summer.

The terraced cafes and restaurants of the Quartier Latin are great spots to watch the world go by, over coffee, croissants or even a bowl of borscht. Popular with students at UQAM, which number in the tens of thousands, the Quartier Latin is unrivaled when it comes to budget dining, inexpensive bistro fare and meals in a hurry. There are also abundant bars nearby, making for an easy transition from dinner to nighttime amusement.

In the 19th century, the neighborhood was an exclusive residential area for wealthy Francophones. Although many original buildings burned in the great fire of 1852, there are a number of Victorian and art-nouveau gems hidden on the tree-lined streets. Today, the quarter is a hotbed of activity, especially during summer festivals, when energy spills from the streets 24 hours a day.

Rue St-Denis is also an entry of sorts to the Village, one of the largest gay communities in North America. Packed with eclectic eateries, shops and outrageous nightspots, Rue Ste-Catherine is the Village’s main thoroughfare, and it closes to traffic periodically in the summer.

Don’t Miss

APeople-watching with a drink

AJust for Laughs comedy festival

ADivers/Cité

Practicalities

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

AmBerri-UQAM

1Sights
Rue St-Denis

Bibliothèque et Archives Nationale du QuébecLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.banq.qc.ca; 475 Blvd de Maisonneuve Est; h10am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

Opened in 2005, this stunning building houses both the library and national archives of Québec. The library itself is 33,000 sq meters, connected to the metro and underground city. Everything published in Québec (books, brochures, sound recordings, posters) since 1968 has been deposited here. Aside from books, the library has changing exhibitions, performances (poetry, jazz) and workshops.

Église St-Pierre-ApôtreCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-524-3791; 1201 Rue de la Visitation; h10:30am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat, 9:30am-4pm Sun; mBeaudry)

The Church of St Peter the Apostle belonged to the monastery of the Oblate fathers who settled in Montréal in the mid-19th century. Located in the Village, this neoclassical church has a number of fine decorations – flying buttresses, stained glass, statues in Italian marble – but nowadays the house of worship is more renowned for its gay-friendly Sunday services.

It also houses the Chapel of Hope, the first chapel in the world consecrated in 1997 to the memory of victims of AIDS.

Écomusée du Fier MondeMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-528-8444; www.ecomusee.qc.ca; 2050 Rue Amherst; admission adult/child $8/6; h11am-8pm Wed, 9:30am-4pm Thu & Fri, 10:30am-5pm Sat & Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

This striking ex-bathhouse explores the history of Centre-Sud, an industrial district in Montréal until the 1950s and now part of the Village. The museum’s permanent exhibition, Triumphs and Tragedies of a Working-Class Neighborhood, puts faces on the industrial era through a series of photos and multimedia displays.

The 1927 building is the former Bain Généreux, an art-deco public bathhouse modeled on one in Paris. Frequent modern-art exhibitions are also held here.

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-LourdesCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-8278; www.cndlm.org; 430 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-6:30pm Sat, 9am-6:30pm Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

Now hidden among the university buildings, this Romanesque gem was built by the Sulpicians in 1876 to cement their influence in Montréal. The chapel was designed by Rue St-Denis resident and artist Napoléon Bourassa. His frescoes, which are dotted about the interior, are regarded as his crowning glory.

Rue Ste-Catherine EstSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mBeaudry)

Montréal’s embrace of the gay community is tightest along the eastern end of Rue Ste-Catherine, a one-time bed of vice and shabby tenements. This strip of restaurants and clubs has been made so presentable that middle-class families mingle with drag queens on the pavements, all part of the neighborhood scenery.

Packed with clubs and restaurants, Rue St Catherine Est is the heart of Montréal’s gay scene.DBIMAGES / ALAMY/ALAMY ©

Université du Québec à MontréalUNIVERSITY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-987-3000; www.uqam.ca; 405 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mBerri-UQAM)

The modern, rather drab buildings of Montréal’s French-language university blend into the cityscape and are linked to the underground city and the Berri-UQAM metro station. The most striking aspect here is the old Gothic steeple of the Église St-Jacques, which has been integrated into the university’s facade.

THE METRO MUSEUM OF ART

Primarily a mover of the masses, the Montréal metro was also conceived as an enormous art gallery, although not all stations have been decorated. Here are a few highlights from the central zone; many more await your discovery.

Berri-UQAM

A set of murals by artist Robert La Palme representing science, culture and recreation hangs above the main staircase leading to the yellow line. These works were moved here from the Man and His World pavilion of Expo '67 at the request of mayor Jean Drapeau, a buddy of La Palme.

Champ-de-Mars

The station kiosk boasts a set of antique stained-glass windows by Marcelle Ferron, an artist of the Refus global movement. The abstract forms splash light down into the shallow platform, drenching passengers in color as their trains roll through.

Peel

Circles, circles everywhere: in bright single colors on advertising panels, in the marble of one entrance, above the main staircases, as tiles on the floor – even the bulkhead vents are circular. They’re the work of Jean-Paul Mousseau of the Québecois art movement Les Automatistes.

Place-des-Arts

The station’s east wall has a backlit stained-glass mural entitled Les Arts Lyriques, by Québecois artist and Oscar-winning filmmaker Frédéric Back. It depicts the evolution of Montréal’s music from the first trumpet fanfare played on the island in 1535 to modern composers and conductors.

5Eating

Juliette et ChocolatCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-287-3555; 1615 Rue St-Denis; mains $8-15; h11am-11pm; mBerri-UQAM)

When the urge to devour something chocolaty arrives, make straight for Juliette et Chocolat, a bustling little cafe where chocolate is served in every shape and form – drizzled over crepes, blended into creamy milkshakes and coffees, or straight up in a blood-sugar-boosting chocolate 'shot.' The setting is charming but small and busy. For less hustle and bustle, visit the Laurier location.

1000 GrammesCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.1000grammes.com; 1495 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mains $10-13; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 10:30am-midnight Sat, 10:30am-10pm Sun; mPapineau)

Known for its decadent desserts such as tarte aux pacanes (pecan pie) and ginormous salads and sandwiches, this cafe is a fun, daytime hangout for a mostly gay crowd. Grab a table beside the huge windows, sip your coffee and watch life go by. Staff are very friendly and helpful.

KitchenetteAMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-527-1016; www.kitchenetterestaurant.ca; 1353 Blvd René Lévesque Est; mains $17-30; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm Tue-Fri, 5-11pm Sat & Sun; mBeaudry)

Whether it’s corn chowder with smoked oysters or beer-braised short ribs with mashed potatoes, Kitchenette likes experimenting with southern comfort food while keeping it simple, like the airy, elegant decor, and always delicious. Fridays are given over to mountainous fish 'n' chips. Be sure to reserve.

O'ThymFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-525-3443; www.othym.com; 1112 Blvd de Maisonneuve Est; mains $25-31; h11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm nightly; mBeaudry)

O'Thym buzzes with foodies who flock here from all over town. It features an elegant but understated dining room (exposed brick walls, floodlit windows, oversized mirrors), and beautifully presented plates of fresh seafood and grilled game. Bring your own wine. The multicourse lunch ($17 to $20) is a great way to dine well without breaking the bank.

Au Petit ExtraFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-527-5552; www.aupetitextra.com; 1690 Rue Ontario Est; mains $22-31; h11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-9:30pm nightly; mPapineau)

This sweet little place serves traditional bistro fare to a garrulous local crowd. The blackboard menu changes frequently but features simple, flavorful dishes (steak frites, foie gras, duck confit, fish soup), and staff can expertly pair wines with food. Reservations are advised.

Le Grain de SelBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-522-5105; www.restolegraindesel.ca; 2375 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mains $22-30; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-10pm Thu-Sat; mPapineau, then bus 34)

This tiny, friendly bistro just beyond the eastern edge of the Village exudes old-world ambience with a small bar and open kitchen. The menu offers bistro fare and other delights such as escargot, organic pork shoulder, fish and chips, and wild-mushroom ravioli. The waiters will marry the right wines with your meal. Reservations are advised.

Ma'TineFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-439-9969; 1310 Maisonneuve Est; mains $11-20; h7am-5pm Wed-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun; mBeaudry)

A lovely addition to the Village, Ma'Tine has a bright, vintage-inspired setting where regulars pop by for a light meal from the ever-changing menu. The chefs prepare inventive but flavorful combinations such as endive, bearnaise sauce, smoked pork and a quail egg (that's one dish) or a trout croissant with goat's cheese and a fried egg.

In warm weather, grab a table on the spacious terrace – this is also where the restaurant grows its fresh herbs.

Le CSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-521-6002; www.restolec.com; 1901 Rue de la Visitation; small plates $6-18, paella $40-48; h4pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mBeaudry)

On the lower level of the creative performing center Usine C, you'll find this low-lit Spanish-style tavern serving up excellent tapas, paella for two and first-rate cocktails and wine. Treat yourself to gambas al ajillo (shrimp with garlic), sepia amb pessoals (cuttlefish with chickpeas) and albonidgas (meatballs) along with a glass of tempranillo before catching a show next door.

SaloonBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-522-1333; www.lesaloon.ca; 1333 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mains $15-27; h11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Wed, 11:30am-11pm Thu-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; mBeaudry)

With nearly 20 years under its belt, this gay bar-bistro has earned a spot in Village hearts for its chilled atmosphere, live DJs, patio seating, cocktails and wide-ranging menu, including some good vegetarian options. A stylish pre-club pit stop.

Quartier LatinBUENA VISTA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

6Drinking & Nightlife

Le Cheval BlancMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 809 Rue Ontario Est; h3pm-3am; mSherbrooke)

An icon of Montréal's brewery scene, Le Cheval Blanc has about 10 drafts on hand, all brewed in house, as well as some Belgian options by the bottle. It's a lively, easygoing place with a friendly all-ages crowd, smiling bartenders and an outdoor patio in the summer.

Our favorites: the raspberry-tinged framboise, the easy-drinking blanche (a wheat beer) and the Ch'fal Dublin, an Irish-style red ale.

B1 BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barb1.com; 2021 Rue St-Denis; h5pm-3am Tue-Sun; mSherbrooke)

Head downstairs to this subterranean drinking den for tasty cocktails and a bubbly crowd, which skews on the young side most nights. It's an atmospheric space with stone walls and low ceilings, served with a touch of quirkiness – some nights there's body painting, on others the gents can get a haircut and cocktail (a deal at $30).

DJs also spin from time to time.

Randolph PubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.randolph.ca; 2041 Rue St-Denis; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

For something completely different, head to Randolph Pub. You pay a $5 cover, which gives you all-night access to the pub's vast selection of board games (over 1500 in its library). Then you can spend the evening playing games, drinking microbrews and noshing on nachos, sandwiches and salads. Avoid going on weekends, when the lines are long.

No reservations, and it's age 18 and up.

Loup GarouBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1738 Rue St-Denis; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat; mSherbrooke)

In the heart of bar-lined St-Denis, Loup Garou has a warm chalet-like vibe (exposed brick, wood paneling) with framed images of werewolves (loup-garous) everywhere. It's a casual spot with decent cocktails, a DJ and a young crowd. Language nerds shouldn't miss the Friday night Mundo Lingo events, where you can converse in your language(s) of choice with people from across the globe.

L’Île NoirePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ilenoire.com; 1649 Rue St-Denis; h3pm-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

Roll into this slice of the Scottish Highlands in the heart of the Quartier Latin and sip from their selection of more than 140 scotches and whiskeys, as well as 15 varieties of beer on tap and several dozen wine choices.

The vibe here is decidedly less bohemian than other watering holes on Rue St-Denis, perfect if you want to take a breather from the surrounding carnival.

Sky Pub & ClubGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-529-6969; 1474 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; hnoon-3am Tue-Sun; mBeaudry)

This is one of those popular Village complexes designed to suck you in for an entire Saturday night of partying. If you’re a gorgeous guy or looking for one, start the evening in the 1st-floor pick-up pub before heading up to the dance floors (disco and energized house/hip-hop). The legendary roof terrace is a perfect place to catch L’International des Feux Loto-Québec (the fireworks competition) in summer.

Le Saint SulpicePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesaintsulpice.ca; 1680 Rue St-Denis; h3pm-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

This student evergreen is spread over four levels in an old Victorian stone house – a cafe, several terraces, a disco and a sprawling back garden for drinks 'n' chats. The music changes with the DJ’s mood, from hip-hop and ambient to mainstream rock and jazz.

Le Saint-BockPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesaintbock.com; 1749 Rue St-Denis; h11:30am-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

This convivial, low-lit brasserie has a decent selection of beers on tap and menu offerings that sometimes rise above conventional pub fare. It’s a good spot to watch hockey on the screens before getting down to some serious drinking elsewhere.

CircusCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.circushd.com; 917 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h2am-8am Thu-Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

Sometimes featuring circus performers and dancers, this hot spot is more glamorous than you might expect from an after-hours joint; in fact, it ranks as the biggest of its kind in Canada. More than 200 visiting DJs a year appear behind the decks, to the dancing delight of glo-stick-brandishing ravers and clubbers who are not ready to call it a night.

Get there early to avoid the long line; alcohol served before 3am.

Le Magellan BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-0909; www.pelerinmagellan.com; 330 Rue Ontario Est; h11am-9pm Mon, to 10pm Tue, Wed & Sat, to midnight Thu & Fri; mBerri-UQAM)

A good spot to enjoy an evening of eclectic offerings, from jazz to chansons. The interior is sprinkled with maritime doodads (there’s an interesting gallery of antique maps upstairs), the front terrace is great for people-watching, while the back terrace is perfectly verdant in summer. It’s joined to Le Pélerin restaurant.

StudGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-598-8243; www.studbar.com; 1812 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h5pm-3am; mPapineau)

This Village meat market attracts older, heavier men, and its dark, down-at-the-heels design might bring to mind New York gay bars of the 1970s. The upside is that it’s not pretentious at all, there’s cheap beer and no cover charge, and the upstairs disco can be lots of fun.

Club Date Piano-BarPUB, GAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1218 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h8am-3am; mBeaudry)

This gay tavern knew exactly what it was doing when it karaokefied the spot. A mixed crowd cheers on aspiring vocalists from all walks of life, from the hilariously awful to the downright star-worthy. Cheap drinks and a weird saloon vibe guarantee you a night to remember – or forget.

StereoCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-658-2646; www.stereonightclub.net; 858 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h2am-11am Fri & Sat; mBerri-UQAM)

Montréal’s giant of underground house music has opened and closed for various reasons throughout the years. Featuring a sound system so amazing that regulars gush about out-of-body experiences, Stereo is open for business once again, attracting anyone – gay, straight, students and drag queens – looking to lose sleep in style.

UnityGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clubunitymontreal.com; 1171 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h10pm-3am Thu-Sun; mBeaudry)

This three-floor Village favorite features not only a club and pub but a VIP lounge, pool tables and rooftop terrace. Saturdays are the best nights, while Fridays are given over to a mostly 20-something crowd.

ApollonGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.apollonmtl.com; 1450 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h10pm-3am Tue & Thu-Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

Opened in the beautiful Station Postale C, a heritage post office built in 1912 that later hosted Village standby KOX, Apollon has an open-concept setup where you can look down on the gyrating bodies from balconies above. Saturday nights draw an older crowd, while Friday nights see a mix of mainstream pop music.

2Neighborhood Walk
Bohemian Life in the Quartier Latin

Start Pl Émilie-Gamelin

End Écomusée du Fier Monde

Length 2.5km; one to two hours

Begin your walk in the somewhat unkempt 1Place Émilie-Gamelin, site of spontaneous concerts, wacky metal sculptures, outdoor chess matches and punks with beleaguered pets.

Head southwest along Rue Ste-Catherine. Peek inside 2Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes, commissioned in 1876. This Romanesque gem has imaginative frescoes by Napoléon Bourassa.

Head up to Blvd de Maisonneuve and continue to the 3Cinémathèque Québécoise. Look at the cinema exhibits on the 1st floor and check out the latest screenings – you can catch rare films here that you won't find elsewhere.

Loop around the block and head along tiny Rue Emery. Stop for a pick-me-up in 4Camellia Sinensis, one of Montréal's best-loved teahouses. You can buy countless loose-leaf teas next door.

Cross Rue St-Denis and continue down the narrow lane. You'll reach the 5Bibliothèque et Archives Nationale du Québec, a massive library housing an astounding collection of all things Québecois. Go into the main hall and downstairs to the gallery, which often hosts fascinating (and free) exhibitions.

Return to Rue St-Denis and turn right. You’ll soon pass two of the neighborhood’s cultural mainstays. 6Théâtre St-Denis is the city’s second-largest theater. Continue up the street, noting the terrace cafes, lively pubs and quirky shops. The little side street, 7Terrasse St-Denis, was a meeting place of Montréal’s bohemian set at the turn of the 20th century.

Walk back down and turn left on Rue Ontario Est, then left onto Rue Amherst. On your right is the grand art-deco 8Marché St-Jacques, a tranquil market with great snack options.

Up the street is the 9Écomusée du Fier Monde, a small museum about working-class life in the neighborhood prior to the 1960s. It's in a former bathhouse built in 1927.

3Entertainment

Usine CPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-521-4493; www.usine-c.com; 1345 Ave Lalonde; mBeaudry)

This former jam factory in the Village is home to the award-winning Carbone 14 theatrical dance troupe that performs here regularly. Its two flexible halls (450 and 150 seats) can be rejigged to accommodate circuses or concerts, but you’re more likely to find interesting international drama collaborations.

To bump into its talented performers, head for the cozy tavern restaurant, Le C, downstairs.

Théâtre St-DenisPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-4211; www.theatrestdenis.com; 1594 Rue St-Denis; hbox office noon-6pm Mon-Sat; mBerri-UQAM)

This Montréal landmark and historic movie house hosts touring Broadway productions, rock concerts and various theatrical and musical performances. Its two halls (933 and 2218 seats) are equipped with the latest sound and lighting gizmos and figure prominently in the Just for Laughs festival.

Cinémathèque QuébécoiseCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-9763; www.cinematheque.qc.ca; 335 Blvd de Maisonneuve Est; adult/student $10/9; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 4-9pm Sat & Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

This is a university-flavored venue noted for showing Canadian, Québecois and international avant-garde films. In the lobby there’s a permanent exhibition on the history of filmmaking as well as a TV and new-media section.

Cabaret MadoCABARET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mado.qc.ca; 1115 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; tickets $5-15; h4pm-3am Tue-Sun; mBeaudry)

Mado is a flamboyant celebrity who has been featured in Fugues, the gay entertainment mag. Her cabaret is a local institution, with drag shows featuring an assortment of hilariously sarcastic performers in eye-popping costumes. Shows take place Tuesday, Thursday and weekend nights; check the website for details.

A Cabaret Mado sculpture brightens up the walls in the Village.DBIMAGES / ALAMY ©

Bistro à JojoBLUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-843-5015; www.bistroajojo.com; 1627 Rue St-Denis; hnoon-3am; mBerri-UQAM)

This brash venue in the Quartier Latin has been going strong since 1975. It’s the nightly place for down 'n' dirty French- and English-language blues and rock groups. Sit close enough to see the band members sweat.

Le NationalLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-2014; www.latulipe.ca; 1220 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mBeaudry)

This 750-capacity concert venue situated in the Village was one of the first professional French theaters in Montréal. In tandem with sister venue La Tulipe on Ave Papineau, it hosts a variety of acts from hardcore bands to pop shows. Check the website for listings.

Théâtre Ste-CatherinePERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-284-3939; www.theatresaintecatherine.com; 264 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; mBerri-UQAM)

From film to theater, stand-up comedy to music concerts, this venue presents a variety of shows: Oscar Wilde one night, burlesque dance the next. Its Sunday Night Improv (sketch and comedy) performances are quite popular with the city’s theatrical community; the Montreal Sketch Comedy Festival is in late May.

Cinéma Quartier LatinCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cineplex.com; 350 Rue Emery; h11:30am-10:15pm; mBerri-UQAM)

This large cinema plays French films and French versions of some Hollywood movies, as well as live broadcasts of performances from the Metropolitan Opera in New York several times a month (check www.cineplex.com/opera for the schedule). It’s also a host theater for the Montréal World Film Festival.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

MIXED MEMORIES

On every car in Montréal, you’ll notice the motto 'Je me souviens' (I remember). Officially adopted as part of Québec’s coat of arms in 1939, it has been the subject of intense debate as to its meaning. Some say it represents Québec’s French heritage before the British victory on the Plains of Abraham in 1760. Others believe it has to do with perceived constitutional injustices that Québec has suffered in the 20th century. Actually, Québec bureaucrat Eugene Taché had it carved in the province’s coat of arms on the Parliament building in Ottawa in 1883. Though he did not explain its meaning, it appears to originate in a poem he wrote, part of which runs as follows: 'Je me souviens que né sous le lys, je fleuris sous la rose.' (I remember that I was born under the fleur de lys, but I blossomed under the rose.) It would suggest that Québec should remember that it was born from France (the lily) but matured under the institutions inherited from Britain (the rose). The motto’s cryptic meaning is far from universally agreed upon, however. Montréal’s aggressive drivers are usually too busy honking at each other to discuss it.

7Shopping

Marché St-JacquesMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2035 Rue Amherst; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; mBeaudry)

A market has stood here since 1879, making it one of the oldest public marchés in Canada. The current building dates from 1931 and boasts a lovely art-deco design. While the offerings are limited (especially compared to Marché Jean-Talon and the Atwater market), this is still a fine place to pick up a picnic or a quick bite while exploring the Village.

You'll find bakery items, cheeses, smoked fish, sandwiches, pastas and pizza (at Rouge Tomate) and espresso drinks, along with shiny fruits and vegetables. There's also a popular creperie (Crêpanita) in front of the market, near Rue Ontario.

oCamellia SinensisFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camellia-sinensis.com; 351 Rue Emery; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Thu-Fri; mBerri-UQAM)

Right in front of the Cinéma Quartier Latin, this welcoming tea shop has more than 200 varieties of tea from China, Japan, India and elsewhere in Asia, plus quality teapots, tea accessories, books, and workshops such as pairing tea with chocolate. You can taste exotic teas and carefully selected desserts in the salon next door, which features brews from recent staff travels.

Aux Quatre Points CardinauxMAPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aqpc.com; 551 Rue Ontario Est; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat; mBerri-UQAM)

The globe-trotting folks at AQPC pack a range of goods for the seasoned traveler including atlases, globes, maps, aerial photographs, and travel guides in English and French, including a good selection of Lonely Planet books.

ZéphyrART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-529-9199; 2112 Rue Amherst; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat; mSherbrooke)

One of several interesting shops along this stretch of Amherst, Daniel Roberge’s bright gallery focuses on contemporary art from Québec and Canadian artists such as Michel Roy and Danièle DeBlois.

Boutique SpoutnikANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boutiquespoutnik.com; 2120 Rue Amherst; h12-5pm Tue-Wed, Sat & Sun, 12-6pm Thu-Fri; mSherbrooke)

Spoutnik has enough shiny retro stuff for your home such as vintage wooden desks and globular lighting fixtures, that you’d swear you’re back in the shagadelic '60s.

ArchambaultBOOKS, MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-6202; www.archambault.ca; 500 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h9:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mBerri-UQAM)

Behind the art-deco portals you’ll find Montréal’s oldest and largest book and record shop, an emporium that boasts CDs and books, plus assorted musical supplies such as pianos and sheet music.

PriapeSEX & FETISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-521-8451; www.priape.com; 1311 Rue Ste-Catherine Est; h11am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mBeaudry)

Montréal’s biggest gay sex store is well plugged into mainstream erotic wares (DVDs, mags and books), and also has high-quality clothing with a titillating edge – shrink-wrapped jeans, but also a vast choice of black leather gear in the basement.

Plateau Mont-Royal

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Plateau Mont-Royal

Neighborhood Top Five

1Enjoying the fresh air, sweeping vistas and feathered friends of Parc du Mont-Royal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lemontroyal.qc.ca), the beloved heart of Montréal.

2Join locals at the sun-drenched cafe Moineau Masqué, then wander the Plateau's leafy backstreets.

3Exploring the old-world groceries that rub shoulders with stylish drinking dens along Boulevard St-Laurent.

4Trolling the quirky shops, from old records to single-origin chocolate, along bohemian Avenue du Mont-Royal.

5Chilling out in summer and ice-skating in winter in the broad expanse of local favorite Parc La Fontaine.

Explore Plateau Mont-Royal

This is a large area, but a good chunk can be explored in a day. Begin at leafy Carré St-Louis, where old-slate Victorian mansions and duplexes house bohemian souls and B&Bs. Originally a working-class neighborhood, in the 1960s and '70s the Plateau became the place where writers, singers and all manner of artists lived.

Make your way along Rue Prince-Arthur Ouest to Blvd St-Laurent, the legendary divide between anglophone and francophone Montréal once known as 'the Main.' Today the Main is a mix of hip cafes and nightspots, old-world delis and grocery stores, and funky hipster shops. The stretch to Ave Duluth, known for its BYOB restos, attracts hordes of 20-somethings on weekend nights. For lunch or a relaxing coffee, take a break at Café Santropol, an old standby on Rue St-Urbain.

Continuing northwest up Blvd St-Laurent, you’ll enter Montréal’s Portuguese community, passing Parc du Portugal. Another block to the northwest lies Ave du Mont-Royal. It’s worth turning right here and wandering down several blocks, lined with eclectic boutiques, record shops and bookstores.

When you’re in the mood for fresh air, hop on bus 11 on the northwest side of Ave du Mont-Royal and ride up to ‘the Mountain,’ the Parc du Mont-Royal. Hop off at the parking lot near Maison Smith, a visitors center where you can have a drink and learn about the park's history before spending the rest of the day exploring it.

Local Life

ABar-hopping Coasting up and down Blvd St-Laurent is the quintessential bar-hopping experience for younger Montréalers.

AMountainsides It doesn’t get much more Montréal than picnicking, sunbathing and toboganning (in winter) on the Mountain.

AFoodie faves You can’t go wrong with a bagel, some smoked meat and poutine (Click here) in your quest to be an authentic Montréaler.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Metro access is via the orange line, at the stations of Sherbrooke, Mont-Royal and Laurier.

ABus The 55 runs along Blvd St-Laurent; bus 30 coasts along Rue St-Denis; bus 80 travels Ave du Parc; bus 11 climbs up to Parc du Mont-Royal from Ave du Mont-Royal.

ABike You can rent a Bixi bike to reach much of Plateau Mont-Royal; pedaling up the mountain itself is a tough slog.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A L'Gros Luxe

A L'Express

A Hà

A Le Filet

A Au Pied de Cochon

A Schwartz’s

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Le Lab

A La Distillerie

A Apt 200

A Majestique

A SuWu

A Big in Japan

Best Entertainment

For reviews, see Click here

A Casa del Popolo

A Dièse Onze

A Agora de la Danse

A La Tulipe

1Sights

Boulevard St-LaurentSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mSt-Laurent then bus 55)

A dividing line between the city’s east and west, Blvd St-Laurent (previously ‘the Main’) has always been a focus of action, a gathering place for people of many languages and backgrounds. In 1996 it was declared a national historic site for its role as ground zero for so many Canadian immigrants and future Montréalers. The label 'the Main' has stuck in the local lingo since the 19th century. Today it’s a gateway into the Plateau and a fascinating street to explore.

For a food- and culture-focused tour of the Main, from Chinatown to Little Italy, contact Fitz & Follwell.

Parc La FontainePARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rue Sherbrooke Est & Ave du Parc La Fontaine; mSherbrooke)

At 34 hectares, this great verdant municipal park is the city’s third largest, after Parc du Mont-Royal and Parc Maisonneuve. In the warmer months weary urbanites flock to leafy La Fontaine to enjoy the walking and bicycle paths, the attractive ponds and the general air of relaxation that pervades the park. There's also a chalet where you can grab a bite or a drink, Espace La Fontaine.

The view down the steep banks from Ave du Parc La Fontaine is impressive, especially if the fountains are in play. You can rent paddleboats in summer and go ice-skating in winter. The open-air Théâtre de Verdure draws a laid-back crowd on evenings in July.

Église St-Jean-BaptisteCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lestjeanbaptiste.com; 309 Rue Rachel Est; h4-6pm Mon-Thu, 4:30-6:30pm Sat, 9:30-11am & 4:30-6:30pm Sun; mMont-Royal)

Dedicated to St John the Baptist, the patron saint of French Canadians, this church was the hub of working-class Catholic families in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The altar is white imported marble, the chancel canopy is pink marble and there are two Casavant organs. The acoustics are splendid and the church plays host to numerous classical-music concerts throughout the year.

Avenue du Mont-RoyalSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mMont-Royal)

Old-fashioned five-and-dime stores rub shoulders with a wide array of trendy cafes and fashion boutiques on Ave du Mont-Royal. The nightlife here has surged to the point that it rivals Blvd St-Laurent, with bars and nightclubs ranging from the sedate to uproarious. Intimate shops, secondhand stores and ultramodern boutiques offer eye-catching apparel.

Carré St-LouisSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rue St-Denis & Rue Prince-Arthur; mSherbrooke)

This lovely green space with a three-tiered fountain is flanked by beautiful rows of Second Empire homes. In the 19th century a reservoir here was filled, and a neighborhood emerged for well-to-do French families. Artists and poets gathered in the area back then, and creative types like filmmakers and fashion designers now occupy houses in the streets nearby. The cafe, which opens in summer, is a good spot for a pick-me-up, with occasional musicians creating the soundtrack for the square.

Carré St-Louis feeds west into Rue Prince-Arthur, a former slice of 1960s hippie culture that has refashioned itself as a popular restaurant strip.

Parc du PortugalPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Blvd St-Laurent & Rue Marie-Anne; mSt-Laurent then bus 55)

This quaint little park is dedicated to Portuguese immigrants and their community, founded in Montréal in 1953. At the rear of the park, next to the little summer pavilion, a plaque commemorates the arrival of Portuguese immigrants in search of a new life. The gates and fountain are covered with colorful glazed tiles.

2Neighborhood Walk
Montréal’s Favorite Mountain

Start Ave des Pins Ouest

End Lac des Castors

Length 6km; two hours

Many of Montréal’s neighborhoods hug the foot of Parc du Mont-Royal, making everyone feel like they have a bit of green space in their backyard. 'The Mountain,' as Mont-Royal is affectionately known by locals, is cherished for its winding trails, fresh air and terrific views.

The starting point for this walk is on 1Avenue de Pins Ouest at the staircase into the park. It’s a fairly brisk 10- to 15-minute climb that alternates between steps and inclined trail.

When you reach the large path, turn right and you'll soon see yet more stairs heading up to the 2Kondiaronk lookout. The overlook offers stunning views of the downtown area. A few paces from the lookout is the 3Chalet du Mont-Royal, which has paintings of some key scenes from local history (and a flickering fire in winter).

From the chalet, walk north along the trail named Chemin Olmsted about 600m to the 4Croix du Mont-Royal. This is where city founder Maisonneuve allegedly planted a cross in thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for saving the city from flood.

Further along you can descend a set of stairs to reach the scenic lookout of 5Belvédère Camillien-Houde, one of the most romantic views in the city.

Returning to the path, head south toward 6Maison Smith, an 1858 building that houses a permanent exhibition on the history and ongoing conservation of Mont-Royal. A visitors center doles out information on the park; the on-site cafe is a good spot to grab a bite or a cold drink.

Another 500m further south, the artificial pond 7Lac des Castors is a haven of toy-boat captains in summer and ice-skaters in winter. Refreshments are available at the pavilion, and in warm weather the meadows around the pond are full of sunbathers.

1Parc du Mont-Royal Area

Montréalers are proud of their 'mountain,' so don’t call it a hill as Oscar Wilde did when he visited the city in the 1880s. The charming, leafy expanse of Parc du Mont-Royal is charged for a wide range of outdoor activities. The wooded slopes and grassy meadows have stunning views that make it all the more popular for jogging, picnicking, horseback riding, cycling, and throwing Frisbees. Winter brings skating, tobogganing and cross-country skiing. Binoculars are a good idea for the bird feeders that have been set up along some walking trails.

The park was laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of New York’s Central Park. The idea came from bourgeois residents in the adjacent Golden Square Mile who fretted about vanishing greenery. Note that walking in the park after sunset isn’t such a safe idea.

Contrary to what people may try to tell you, this place is not an extinct volcano. Rather, Parc du Mont-Royal is a hangover from when magma penetrated the earth’s crust millions of years ago. This formed a sort of erosion-proof rock, so while time and the elements were wearing down the ground around it, the 232m-high hunk of rock, which locals affectionately refer to as 'the Mountain,' stood firm.

On the north side of the park lie two enormous cemeteries: Cimetière Mont-Royal is Protestant and nondenominational, while Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-Neiges is Catholic.

For more info on the park visit www.le montroyal.qc.ca.

Belvédère Camillien-HoudeLOOKOUT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Voie Camillien-Houde; mMont-Royal, then bus 11)

This is the most popular lookout on Mont-Royal thanks to its accessibility and large parking lot. Naturally enough, it’s a magnet for couples once night falls, making it nearly impossible on summer nights to find a parking space.

You can walk to Chalet du Mont-Royal, about 2km away. To get to this lookout, take the stairs that lead from the parking lot.

Chalet du Mont-RoyalHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; stairs up from Redpath Cres; h8am-8pm; mMont-Royal, then bus 11)

Constructed in 1932, this grand old white villa, complete with bay windows, contains canvases that depict scenes of Montréal history. You’ll also see carved squirrels in the rafters. Big bands strut their stuff on the huge balcony in summer, reminiscent of the 1930s. Most people, however, flock here for the spectacular views of downtown from the Kondiaronk lookout behind the chalet. It’s about a 1km uphill walk from the park entrance on Ave de Pins.

Staff at the handy information booth inside can give you tips on exploring the park.

Lac des CastorsLAKE

( GOOGLE MAP ; g11)

Created in a former marsh as part of a work-creation project, Beaver Lake is a center of activity year-round. You can rent paddleboats on the lake or, in winter, ice skates, cross-country skis, snow shoes and sleds from Le Pavillon ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pavillonmontroyal.com; 2000 Chemin Remembrance; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; g11). The slopes above the lake are popular for sledding. Refreshments and sandwiches are sold at a snack bar; there’s also a restaurant with more elaborate dishes.

Maison SmithHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; Voie Camillien-Houd; h9am-5pm; g11)

Constructed in 1858 by a merchant who wanted to get away from the pollution and overpopulation of the rest of Montréal, this house contains a small permanent exhibition on the history of the park and its flora and fauna. There's also a visitors center and a cafe, with a pleasant outdoor terrace (open mid-May to mid-October) where you can have grilled sandwiches, soups, desserts, coffees, beer and wine.

A gift shop sells bird-watching paraphernalia, maps of the park and souvenirs.

Croix du Mont-RoyalMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; g11)

About 550m north of Kondiaronk lookout stands the Mont-Royal Cross, one of Montréal’s most familiar landmarks. Made of reinforced steel, the 31-meter-tall cross was erected in 1924 on the very spot where Maisonneuve placed a wooden cross.

According to legend, when floods threatened the fledgling colony in 1643, Maissonneuve prayed to the Virgin Mary to save the town. When the waters receded, out of gratitude Maisonneuve carried a cross up the steep slopes and planted it there.

The white illuminated cross is visible from anywhere downtown.

Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-NeigesCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-735-1361; www.notredamedesneigescemetery.ca; 4601 Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges; h8am-5pm, office 8:30am-4:30pm; mCôte-des-Neiges)

More than one million people have found their final resting place here since this Catholic cemetery opened in 1854, making it the largest cemetery in Canada and the third largest in North America. It was initially inspired by the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.

The catalog of permanent guests includes 20 Montréal mayors, a number of ex-passengers from the Titanic,and Calixa Lavallée, the composer of 'O Canada.' The cemetery office has brochures for self-guided tours around the tombs but there’s also a map posted at the entrance.

Cimetière Mont-RoyalCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-279-7358; www.mountroyalcem.com; 1297 Chemin de la Forêt; h9am-6pm; mÉdouard-Montpetit)

Celebrating its 160th anniversary in 2012, Cimetière Mont-Royal was founded in 1852 for the last journey of Presbyterians, Anglicans, Unitarians, Baptists and nondenominationals. In 1901 it opened Canada’s first crematorium. One famous grave is that of Charles Melville Hayes, the president of the Grand Trunk Railway who went down with the Titanic. The cemetery is laid out like a landscape garden and is perfect for the Goth-historically interested; it also hosts history walks, open-air plays and guided tours.

PRACTICAL TIP

MOUNTAIN GUIDE

There's much to experience on Mont-Royal, but it's wise to have a plan before you go.

Getting there Along Ave du Mont-Royal (including in front of the metro station), catch bus 80, which stops at Belvédère Camillien-Houde, Chalet du-Mont-Royal and Lac des Castors.

On foot The main entry points are Rue Drummond and Peel in downtown and Rue Rachel in the Plateau.

Eating Maison Smith is the best place to go for a casual lunch or snack stop. For something more upscale, head to Le Pavilion overlooking Lac des Castors.

Activities Head to Lac des Castors for winter sports and summer boating. For a leafy stroll that takes in the park highlights see our self-guided walking tour (Click here).

Information There are park info centers at Chalet du Mont-Royal and Maison Smith. You'll also find loads of info online (including a handy map). Visit www.lemontroyal.qc.ca.

5Eating

Plateau Mont-Royal has a fantastic variety of bistros, upscale restaurants and bohemian-style cafes. Rue Prince-Arthur Est is a narrow residential street that has been converted into a dining and entertainment enclave. The restaurant segment runs west from leafy Carré St-Louis (just north of Rue Sherbrooke) to a block west of Blvd St-Laurent. Many of the small, inexpensive and mostly ethnic restaurants here aren’t licensed to serve alcohol, so bring your own wine.

Schwartz'sSANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.schwartzsdeli.com; 3895 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $8-22; h8am-12:30am Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri, to 2:30am Sat; mSherbrooke)

Reuben Schwartz, a Romanian Jew, opened this Montréal icon in 1928, and it’s been going strong ever since. Schwartz’s meat goes through a 14-day regime of curing and smoking on the premises before landing on your plate after a final three-hour steam. It’s widely considered the best smoked meat in Montréal, whether it’s brisket, duck, chicken or turkey, all piled high on sourdough rye bread.

You can order it fat, medium (recommended) or lean. Expect the usual long lines. If you don’t feel like waiting, head across the street to the Main, which serves a reputable smoked meat sandwich.

La BanquiseQUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-525-2415; www.labanquise.com; 994 Rue Rachel Est; mains $7-11; h24hr; mMont-Royal)

A Montréal legend since 1968, La Banquise is probably the best place in town to sample poutine. More than 30 varieties are available, including a vegan poutine, the boogalou (with pulled pork) and straight-up classic poutine. There’s an outdoor terrace, a full breakfast menu and a selection of microbrews, plus the kitchen never closes. Expect big lines on weekends.

Saka-Ba!JAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1279 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; mains $11-15; h5-11pm daily, 11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 11:30am-3pm Sat & Sun; Wv; mMont-Royal)

On a frosty Montréal evening, steaming bowls of ramen are hard to beat at this fun, whimsical eatery. Take a seat at one of the long red wooden counters (head to the back to watch the chefs in action) and feast on perfectly cooked noodles with braised pork, bamboo and green onions. There's also a vegetarian version.

Tasty appetizers include octopus salad or pork and cabbage gyoza (dumplings).

Patati PatataQUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-0216; 4177 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $7-11; h8am-11pm; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

This matchbox-sized, bohemian-style eatery is known for its poutine, borscht and miniburgers. It’s a Montréal classic with rocking music and young efficient staff, and there’s almost always a line snaking out the front. Grab a seat at the window and watch the city stroll past.

OmnivoreMEDITERRANEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4351 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $6-14; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; v; mMont-Royal)

Amid rustic wood tables and potted plants, the friendly staff at Omnivore whip up delicious sandwiches that are rolled in pita then grilled. There's also hummus, tabouli, baba ghanoush and other Lebanese classics.

Sushi MomoJAPANESE, VEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-825-6363; 8 Ave Duluth; 5-piece rolls $6-8; h11am-2:30pm & 4:30-10pm Tue-Fri, 4-10pm Sat & Sun; v; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

There are just five tables in this cramped, art-filled sushi joint, but you can always grab a spot along the counter, and join the mostly student crowd for delicious inexpensive rolls. The separate menu for vegetarians is outstanding, with inventive combos such as the Mangue Patate with sweet potato, mango, cucumber, avocado and more.

Orders come with steaming spiced bowls of edamame, and you should definitely opt for the miso soup.

Beauty’sDINER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-8883; www.beautys.ca; 93 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest; breakfasts $8-13; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; mMont-Royal)

This sleek, retro '50s diner serves what some consider Montréal’s best breakfast – all day long. Ask for ‘the Special’ – a toasted bagel with lox, cream cheese, tomato and onion. Lineups on Saturday and Sunday mornings can run up to 40 minutes long, even in winter (arrive before 10am).

JanoPORTUGUESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-0646; 3883 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $14-16; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 11am-midnight Thu-Sun; g55, mSt-Laurent)

The scent of charcoal-grilled meats and seafood lingers in the air at this welcoming, family-friendly Portuguese restaurant. The menu features straightforward selections of fresh fish, pork and steak, all grilled to choice tenderness. Warm colors, small tables and a buzzing atmosphere draw in the crowds, particularly on weekends, when waits can be long.

Café SantropolCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.santropol.com; 3990 Rue St-Urbain; mains $8-12; h11:30am-10pm; v; g55, mSt-Laurent)

This bohemian Montréal eatery is known for its towering and creative sandwiches, colorful digs and lush outdoor garden patio. Its creations range from the sweet root (carrots, raisins, coriander, nuts, mayo and fresh apple) to the Santropol (sliced roast beef with blue cheese). Lots of vegetarian options.

St-Viateur Bagel & CaféBAGELS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-528-6361; www.stviateurbagel.com; 1127 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; sandwiches $9-12; h6am-10pm; mMont-Royal)

A splendid cafe that serves its signature bagels, grilled or nature, with soup or salad. There are about a dozen sandwiches but most popular are the traditional smoked lox with cream cheese, and roast beef with Swiss cheese and tomato. You can also find breakfast bagels with eggs and ham.

Kouign AmmanBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 322 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; pastries $2-3; h7am-6pm; mMont-Royal)

The name of this petite bakery – a challenge even for some French speakers – comes from their famous Breton cake (flaky on the outside, rich and tender on the inside), which draws in fans from near and far. The friendly staff also doles out soups, quiches and croissants. The space is tiny with just three tables; most people get their treats to go.

RomadosPORTUGUESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-1803; 115 Rue Rachel Est; mains $6-13; h6:30am-9pm; mMont-Royal)

Romados has many admirers for its delicious grilled chicken. Order it with fries and a few pasteis de nata (custard tarts). It's an informal place, with just a few tables. If the weather is nice, consider heading to nearby Parc Jeanne-Mance for a picnic.

Au Festin de BabetteICE CREAM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-0214; 4085 Rue St-Denis; ice creams $6-7; h10am-7pm; mMont-Royal)

This charming cafe with sidewalk terrace is famed for its homemade ice cream. The supremely satisfying crème glacée molle à l’ancienne is chocolate or vanilla ice cream blended on the spot with fresh raspberries, mango, ginger and other ingredients. In winter, stop in for rich hot chocolate.

Espace La FontaineBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-280-2525; www.espacelafontaine.com; Parc La Fontaine; mains $10-16; h11am-5pm Wed-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; mSherbrooke)

In a chalet perched above the water, Espace La Fontaine is a bright and cheery bistro that serves sandwiches, salads and drinks, as well as a good weekend brunch. It has a great outdoor terrace in summer, and in winter, there's ice-skating just below the chalet.

Hof KelstenBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4524 Blvd St-Laurent; pastries $2-3, sandwiches $8-9; h8am-7pm Wed-Sun; v; mMont-Royal)

This sweet bakery has delectable pastries, tasty sandwiches (including an egg-and-cheese breakfast option) and a tempting selection of loaves. At lunchtime, join Montréalers at the long communal table for lox, roast beef or veggie sandwiches – or get it to go and head to nearby Parc Jeanne-Mance.

There's also soup (borscht, matzo ball, latke) and first-rate espresso drinks. You can also come for weekend brunch – challah French toast, schnitzel and eggs – served from 10am to 3pm.

oL'Gros LuxeBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lgrosluxe.com; 3807 Rue St-André; small plates $5-10; hnoon-11:30pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; v; mSherbrooke)

With its big windows, classy vintage decor and inexpensive comfort fare, L'Gros Luxe has obvious appeal. The small dining room is always packed with young Plateau residents who come for pork tacos, veggie burgers, and fish and chips. Plates are small, but nothing costs more than $10, and there's an extensive drinks menu (with much higher prices than the food).

Go early to beat the crowds. There's a second location in Mile End; both locations also draw the weekend brunch crowd.

oL'ExpressFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-5333; 3927 Rue St-Denis; mains $22-28; h8am-2am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; mSherbrooke)

L’Express has all the hallmarks of a Parisian bistro – black-and-white checkered floor, art-deco globe lights, papered tables and mirrored walls. High-end bistro fare completes the picture with excellent dishes such as grilled salmon, bone marrow with sea salt, roast duck with salad and beef tartare. The waiters can advise on the extensive wine list. Reservations are essential.

Les Trois Petits BouchonsFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-285-4444; www.lestroispetitsbouchons.com; 4669 Rue St-Denis; mains $16-30; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; mMont-Royal)

In this delightfully convivial minimalist space, chef Audrey Dufresne’s motto is ‘terroir (locally sourced) products are the basis, and our passion does the rest.’ Market-based dishes such as grilled octopus, veal tartare, Kamouraska lamb and mushroom tartine are some of the gems presented with impeccable service. Reservations are essential.

La Sala RosaSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-4227; www.lasalarossa.com; 4848 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $13-17; h5-11pm Tue-Sun; v; mLaurier)

A festive, local and often Spanish-speaking crowd comes to this little Iberian gem. Sala Rosa is best known for its five tasty varieties of paella (including vegetarian) as well as numerous tapas dishes and a changing lineup of Spanish specials. On Thursday nights (from 8:45pm) there’s a live flamenco show and the place gets packed.

HàVIETNAMESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-0336; www.restaurantha.com; 243 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest; mains $12-19; h11:30am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, from 5pm Sat & Sun; mMont-Royal)

Inspired by the street foods (and beers) of Vietnam, Chef Hong Hà Nguyen showcases simple but delectable recipes at this neighborhood charmer near the foot of Mont-Royal. The menu is small, with highlights such as grilled beef with watercress salad, lemongrass pork ribs and spicy papaya salad.

It's set in a warmly lit dining room (illuminated by sculptural light fixtures), with a lovely terrace in front.

L’AvenueBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-523-8780; 922 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; mains $12-20; h8am-4pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; mMont-Royal)

This self-consciously hip restaurant is a magnet for the young, postparty brunch crowd. More than a dozen different types of omelets, plus all the classics – French toast, waffles, eggs Benedict – arrive nicely prepared. The fresh fruit skewers (served with every plate) are a nice touch. Grooving tunes (nostalgic '80s, ambient electronica) play overhead at all hours.

Artwork and urban murals adorn the walls, and the surreal multimedia-infused washroom is an experience in itself.

PintxoSPANISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-0222; www.pintxo.ca; 256 Rue Roy Est; mains $24-38, tapas $5-13; h6-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-2pm Wed-Fri, 6-10pm Sun; mSherbrooke)

Imaginative plates of tapas rule the day at this petite, artfully decorated Basque restaurant helmed by chef Alonso Ortiz. Start with garlic prawns with roasted red pepper, elk carpaccio or seared scallops with chorizo tapenade before moving onto heartier plates such as duck breast with saffron risotto. It’s on a peaceful street in the Plateau and gets packed on weekend nights.

Reservations are necessary.

Robin des BoisFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-1010; www.robindesbois.ca; 4653 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $13-23; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)S

Montréal’s own Robin Hood, restaurateur Judy Servay donates all profits and tips from this St-Laurent hot spot to local charities. Ever-changing dishes scribbled on the chalkboard could include a succulent braised pork roast, rich French onion soup or a creamy wild-mushroom risotto. Reservations are recommended.

Au Pied de CochonFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-1114; www.aupieddecochon.ca; 536 Ave Duluth Est; mains $27-45; h5pm-midnight Wed-Sun; mMont-Royal)

One of Montréal’s most respected restaurants features extravagant pork, duck and steak dishes, along with its signature foie gras plates. Irreverent, award-winning chef Martin Picard takes simple ingredients and transforms them into works of art.

The famous canard en conserve (duck in a can), for instance, is half a roasted duck magret served with foie gras, cabbage, bacon, venison and spices, sealed and cooked in a can – then opened tableside and dumped over celery root puree on toast. Dishes are rich and portions are large, so bring an appetite. Reservations are essential.

Le FiletSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-360-6060; www.lefilet.ca; 219 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest; small plates $14-25; h5:45-10:30pm Tue-Fri, from 5pm Sat; mMont-Royal)

Le Filet presents masterfully crafted fish and seafood with Japanese touches in a low-lit setting facing Parc Jeanne-Mance. Plates are small and meant for sharing (two people typically order four to five dishes). The grilled octopus with Israeli couscous will make you wish there were more than just eight legs.

The menu is market-based and changes often, but other favorites include the miso-gratin oysters, crab risotto and cavatelli with veal cheeks. Reserve well in advance.

CAFE CULTURE

The Plateau has some of the best cafes in the city. Whether you're after the perfect macchiato or simply a buzzing space to take in the neighborhood, you'll be spoiled for choice. Here are a few favorites:

Moineau MasquéCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 912 Rue Marie-Anne Est; h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat, from 9:30am Sun; W; mMont-Royal)

Hidden on a peaceful street, the 'Masked Sparrow' whips up tasty, if slightly bitter coffees, which you can enjoy on the outdoor terrace. On cooler days, take a seat at a big communal table or the comfy sofa in the sun-drenched interior. It's a picture-perfect neighborhood cafe.

Flocon EspressoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 781 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; coffees $3.50-4.50; h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; mMont-Royal)

Coffee nerds flock to this tiny cafe for outstanding espressos, cortados (espresso with a dash of milk) and lattes. There are just two communal tables, but a feel-good vibe prevails, with a mix of anglos and francophones chatting or typing away in the cosy space. Go early to get a seat.

Cafe NévéCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 151 Rue Rachel Est; sandwiches around $8; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; Wv; mMont-Royal)

This much-loved neighborhood haunt serves excellent coffees, and the food selection goes far beyond the typical baked goods found in most cafes. Stop in for eggs Benedict or yogurt, granola and fresh fruit in the morning. For lunch, there are tasty sandwiches (including several vegetarian options) and French onion soup.

ReplikaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 252 Rue Rachel Est; mains $6-9; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W; mMont-Royal)

This spacious coffeehouse has lots of tables for quiet conversation and laptop chatter, plus good coffees, sandwiches, desserts and other snacks. For a jolt, try a Turkish coffee.

MariusCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1251 Rue Rachel; mains $8-9; h7:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; mMont-Royal)

Along the bike path, this bright and charming cafe and bakery serves up delicious sandwiches, salads and espresso drinks. The summer terrace is beautifully sited across from Parc La Fontaine.

Chez JoséCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 173 Ave Duluth Est; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri to 7pm Sat & Sun; mSherbrooke)

Jolly owner José often mans the small kitchen of this tiny, colorful cafe set in a mural-covered building. Besides serving some of the ‘hood’s best and strongest espresso, it’s lauded for its breakfasts, seafood soup and Portuguese sausage. A young, bohemian clientele tends to spill onto the sidewalk to chat while eyeing the cast of characters that meanders by.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La DistillerieBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pubdistillerie.com; 2047 Ave du Mont-Royal; h4pm-3am; mMont-Royal, then bus 97)

Although it's a bit of a hike down Ave du Mont-Royal, La Distillerie is worth the trip for its excellent cocktails (served in Mason jars), friendly bartenders and easygoing crowd. The aesthetic is industrial chic, with exposed bulbs, industrial fixtures and a long wooden bar. There's no food, but you can grab pizza from across the street and eat it here.

There are two other branches of La Distillerie in town, including one in the Quartier Latin.

Le LabCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-544-1333; www.barlelab.com; 1351 Rue Rachel Est; h5pm-3am; mMont-Royal)

Home to some of Montréal's best cocktails, Le Lab prides itself on its wildly inventive elixirs and knowledgeable 'labtenders' who can whip up beautiful concoctions to suit your taste. The setting is classy, with a long solid-wood bar, vest- and tie-wearing staff, and old-fashioned decor, but it remains a fun, unpretentious place.

Sometimes there are flames, as the toolkit here includes not only absinthe but also blowtorches and liquid nitrogen. Try the Jerky Lab Jack, a smoky drink made with Jack Daniels, beef jerky and house BBQ bitters, that's lit ablaze during preparation.

Apt 200BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, 3643 Blvd St-Laurent; h5pm-3am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Once you've climbed the stairs, you'll arrive at what feels like a private loft party, with groups of friends gathered in the spacious, open-lounge area with high tin ceilings, long couches and big windows overlooking the street. Step to the other side for a seat at the long bar, to shoot a round of pool or play arcade games.

Apt 200 is a fine place for an early-evening libation, to start off the night and see what unfolds. There's no sign, so you'll have to look for the number.

Big in JapanCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4175 Blvd St-Laurent; h5pm-3am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Completely concealed from the street, Big in Japan always amazes first timers. There you are walking along bustling St-Laurent, you find the unmarked door, walk down a rather unpromising corridor and emerge into a room lit with a thousand candles (or so it seems).

The elegant, but ethereal beauty seems to come through in the cocktails as well, with well-dressed, if standoffish bartenders mixing pricey but painstakingly prepared Manhattans, old fashioneds and dry martinis. It's a great date place.

SuWuBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.suwumontreal.com; 3581 Blvd St-Laurent; h5pm-3am daily, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Don't let the unpronounceable name deter you. SuWu carves up a winning formula of inventive cocktails and delicious eclectic comfort food that makes it a fine go-to spot no matter the time of night. Snack on fish tacos, fried chicken bao or pork shoulder ramen while sipping an East Side (gin, cucumbers, mint) – or rather a West Side (tequila, basil, lime).

There's hip hop playing overhead, gregarious bartenders and a rustically beautiful interior, complete with hanging plants, thick wood-panelled details and artful lighting.

MajestiqueBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-439-1850; www.restobarmajestique.com; 4105 Blvd St-Laurent; h4pm-3am daily, 11am-3pm Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

The Majestique manages to be both kitschy and classy at the same time, with wood-paneled walls, warm lighting and a buck's head presiding over the tables. The bartenders whip up some beautiful concoctions here, and the food menu is equally creative: try the bourgots (snails), the tartare de cheval (raw horsemeat); for something simple go for huîtres (oysters) or frites (fries).

It's a fun and lively place, and more grown-up than most spots along this street.

ReservoirPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-7779; www.brasseriereservoir.ca; 9 Ave Duluth Est; h3pm-3am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

We adore this low-key, friendly brasserie. It’s nice but not too pricey and the mixed crowd is artsy but unpretentious. If you appreciate good beer, the owners brew their own on the premises. A small kitchen prepares gourmet lunch, after-work snacks and weekend brunch. In summer, the 2nd-floor terrace overlooks this pedestrian-friendly lane.

Bily KunBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bilykun.com; 354 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h3pm-3am; mMont-Royal)

One of the pioneers of ‘tavern chic,’ Bily Kun is a favorite local hangout for a chilled evening among friends. First-time visitors usually gawk at the ostrich heads that overlook the bar but soon settle into the music groove of live jazz (from 6pm to 8pm) and DJs (10pm onwards).

Upstairs, O Patro Vys ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-3855; www.opatrovys.tumblr.com) is a performing-arts hall that features a wide range of bands (folk, French pop, indie rock) as well as electronic installations, poetry slams and other esoteric fare.

Else’sBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-286-6689; 156 Rue Roy Est; hnoon-3am; mSherbrooke)

This is a warm and welcoming neighborhood bar where the vibe is just right for a drink among friends. Settle into one of the worn chairs for an order of fish and chips and a tasty microbrew in front of the ceiling-high windows.

BarflyBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-284-6665; www.facebook.com/BarflyMtl; 4062 Blvd St-Laurent; h4pm-2:30am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Cheap, gritty, loud, fun and a little bit out of control – just the way we like our dive bars. Live bluegrass and rockabilly bands and bedraggled hipsters hold court alongside aging rockers at this St-Laurent hole-in-the-wall.

Plan BBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-6060; www.barplanb.ca; 327 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h3pm-3am; mMont-Royal)

Warm decor, elegant snacks and a fine cocktail menu make this high-end bar a perfect date and pickup spot. It’s also perfect for drinking with friends, and usually not too loud to talk. A sophisticated French-speaking crowd flocks here after work and on weekends.

La Porte RougeCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-264-7399; 1834 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h10pm-3am Tue, Fri & Sat, from 5pm Thu; mMont-Royal)

One of the few dance clubs in the Plateau, La Porte Rouge is a magnet for the fashion-minded, who don't mind paying high prices for cocktails (or opting for bottle service) to be among the beautiful people. The floral wallpaper, house-spinning DJs and nice lighting add to the appeal. To avoid paying sometimes high cover charges, come on Tuesdays.

BifteckBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3702 Blvd St-Laurent; h2pm-3am; W; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Pool, (free) popcorn and indie rockers hold court alongside students and random weirdos at this legendary dive bar that’s as much part of the Main’s culture as smoked meat and bagels.

BlizzartsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blizzarts.ca; 3956a Blvd St-Laurent; h10pm-3am; g55, mSt-Laurent)

Blizz is one of the Plateau’s venerable little spots. The tiny dance floor fills up most nights as DJs spin a range of sounds to a small crowd both trendy and friendly. There's no attitude, just the shared desire to have a good time.

Top nights to go: Wednesdays for reggae and dancehall, Fridays for old- and new-school hip hop, and Saturdays for Mod Club (sexy '60s sounds).

Les FoliesCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-528-4343; www.restofolies.ca; 701 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h9am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; mMont-Royal)

A cross between a bar, cafe and club, the oh-so-chic Folies has a DJ from Tuesday to Saturday nights spinning trendy music and, much more importantly, a sidewalk terrace on Ave du Mont-Royal.

Bières & CompagniePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-0394; www.bieresetcompagnie.ca; 4350 Rue St-Denis; hnoon-midnight; mMont-Royal)

This relaxed pub has a great choice of European and local microbrews alongside excellent pub grub such as burgers (bison, caribou or ostrich), beer-breaded onion rings and mussels done several ways.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

TALKING FOOD

Menus in Montréal are often – but not always – bilingual. Regardless, if you need help with le français, don’t be shy to ask (the waiters are used to it). Important note: in French, an entrée is an appetizer, not a main course – that’s le plat principal. Another thing to watch out for is recognizing the difference between pâte, which means pasta, and pâté, which means that spreadable stuff often made of goose liver (though there are also vegetarian pâtés, such as pâté aux champignons et tofu (mushrooms and tofu).

3Entertainment

Casa del PopoloLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.casadelpopolo.com; 4873 Blvd St-Laurent; admission $5-15; hnoon-3am; mLaurier)

One of Montréal’s most charming live venues, the ‘House of the People’ is also known for its vegetarian sandwiches and salads, its talented DJs and as a venue for art-house films and spoken-word performances. It’s associated with the tapas bar La Sala Rosa and its concert venue La Sala Rossa.

Dièse OnzeLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-223-3543; www.dieseonze.com; 4115 Rue St-Denis; admission around $10; h6pm-late; mMont-Royal)

This downstairs jazz club has just the right vibe – with an intimate small stage so you can get close to the musicians. There are shows most nights, with an eclectic lineup of artists. You can have a bite while the band plays, with good tapas options as well as a few heartier mains (goat's-cheese burger, mushroom risotto). Call for reservations.

La TulipeLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-526-4000; www.latulipe.ca; 4530 Ave Papineau; mMont-Royal, then bus 97)

Best known for its riotously fun '80s dance parties (Saturday nights), La Tulipe also hosts underground indie bands, musical retrospectives and the odd burlesque show. It all takes place in a beautifully restored and intimate theater in the French-speaking east area of the Plateau.

Ex-Centris CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-847-2206; www.cinemaexcentris.com; 3536 Blvd St-Laurent; mSt-Laurent)

A showcase for independent films from around the world, Ex-Centris is sleek and geared to provide pure movie enjoyment with excellent seating and high-tech audio. It has three screens and remains a much-loved local art-house cinema.

Agora de la DanseDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-525-1500; www.agoradanse.com; 840 Rue Cherrier; hbox office noon-5pm; mSherbrooke)

One of Montréal's most important names in the contemporary dance world, Agora de la Danse explores modern and experimental forms, staging both homegrown troupes and performers from around the globe. It's set in the striking old Palestre National building. Tickets to most shows cost around $30.

Mainline TheatreTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-3378; www.mainlinetheatre.ca; 3997 Blvd St-Laurent; mMont-Royal)

Located on the Main (hence the name), this intimate indie theater presents mostly new plays. It also serves as headquarters for the annual Montréal Fringe theater festival.

Le Divan OrangeLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-840-9090; www.divanorange.org; 4234 Blvd St-Laurent; h5pm-3am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 50)

This fantastic space was launched as a kind of restaurant-entertainment venue co-op. There’s a terrific artistic vibe here. On any given night there may be a DJ, world-music performer or record launch.

TAM-TAM JAM

Huge crowds of alternative free spirits gather every Sunday afternoon in summer for the legendary ‘tam-tam’ concerts at the edge of Parc du Mont-Royal, when the pounding rhythms and whirling dancers seem to put everyone in a trance. The action takes place at the Georges-Étienne Cartier monument ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mMont-Royal, then bus 97) opposite Parc Jeanne-Mance, at the corner of Ave du Parc and Ave Duluth. The percussionists are tireless in their dedication, with some riffs going on for an hour or more, and other instruments joining in on the odd occasion. Vendors along the grass sell alternative handicrafts (eg dream catchers, crystals and bead jewelry) and sarongs, plus percussion instruments in case you left your tambourine and conga drum at home.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS

The Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-Neiges has several interesting mausoleums. The Pietà Mausoleum contains a full-scale marble replica of Michelangelo’s famous sculpture in St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Other mausoleums in the cemetery emit solemn music, including that of Marguerite Bourgeoys, a nun and teacher who was beatified in 1982 for more details on her life, visit the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours). Built in 2007, the Esther Blondin Mausoleum is a modern facility housing 6000 crypts and niches, reflecting the increasing popularity of communal memorial spaces.

7Shopping

Aux 33 ToursMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1373 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; mMont-Royal, then bus 97)

Hands down, Aux 33 Tours is the best record shop in the city. You'll find a staggering selection of new and used vinyl covering every genre, and there's also a decent selection of CDs. The staff is knowledgeable, the bins are well organized and the rare finds are easy to unearth. You'll find loads of albums not sold elsewhere.

IbikiFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4357 Blvd St-Laurent; hnoon-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Sleek and modular Ibiki draws a fashion-forward crowd, who come to ogle a well-curated selection of global designers, clothing and accessories. Check out knits by YMC, dresses by Won Hundred and leather bags by Montreal-based WANT. The art and design magazines up front are always a fun browse.

Le 63CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 63 Ave du Mont-Royal; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mMont-Royal)

The vibe is motorcycle chic, with stylish helmets, goggles, sew-on patches, leather gloves and other eye-catching gear for sale. The real reason to come though is for the vintage selection, with graphic T-shirts, bomber jackets, fur-lined boots and Hawaiian shirts. Check the back room for vintage Playboys and bad priapic pottery. Bonus for furry folks: beard soap (from Brooklyn Grooming).

ArtpopCRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 129 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-7pm Sun; mMont-Royal)

Though tiny in size, Artpop is a real find when it comes to browsing for unique Montréal-themed gift ideas. You'll find graphic T-shirts, bags, pillow covers, iPhone covers and prints with iconic city signage (Farine Five Roses, the big Orange Julep, Habitat 67 or the cross atop Mont-Royal).

Other standout items include pretty pendants and earrings made by local designers, cheery handmade dolls, and belts and wallets made of recycled products (repurposed tires and seat belts).

La Tablette de Miss ChocoFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.latablette.ca; 838 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h11am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 8pm Thu-Fri, to 5pm Sun; mMont-Royal)

Elevating the humble cacao bean to high art, this elegant brick-lined shop stocks chocolaty decadence from around the globe, with bars organized by country: Madagascar, Papua New Guinea, Ecuador, Vietnam and dozens of other countries. The on-site cafe serves thick, rich cups of 'chocolat intense' as well as tea-like infusions for those who like their chocolate a bit milder.

There are also classes (in French) where you can learn about the chocolate-making process and evening soirees dedicated to pairings with wine and beer.

HadioVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 314 Ave du Mont-Royal Est; h10am-6pm; mMont-Royal)

A top choice for vintage hunters in the Plateau, Hadio has jammed racks of flannels, crop tops and tank tops, plus cowboy boots, button-downs and lots of new T-shirts with old-school logos and icons (Darth Vader, Michael Jackson, Jaws, Mr T). The prices are great, with many items in the $10 range.

Librairie Michel FortinBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-5719; www.librairiemichelfortin.com; 3714 Rue St-Denis; h9am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mSherbrooke)

A mecca for every foreign-language student and linguist freak in town. You can find children's books, CDs and DVDs, dual-language readers and novels, covering more than 200 languages.

ScandaleFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-4707; 3639 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

Style maven Marie-Josée Gagnon has been running this beautifully designed boutique since 1977, bringing in exotic Parisian imports as well as the creations of the late Georges Lévesque, one of Québec’s most talented designers. Lévesque's avant-garde designs feature a mix of materials and manage to be both stylish and bohemian.

DuoFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-0880; www.boutiqueduo.com; 30 Rue Prince-Arthur Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu & Fri, noon-6pm Sun; mSherbrooke)

A shop for the gents, Duo carries stylish apparel by Rag & Bone, Fred Perry and Marc by Marc Jacobs, as well as Canada's own Mackage. You'll also find designer sneakers, fragrances (by Canadian label DSquared) and accessories.

Coffre aux Trésors du ChainonVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-843-4354; www.lechainon.org; 4375 Blvd St-Laurent; h10am-6pm Tue & Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

This sprawling secondhand store has two floors packed with clothing, shoes, housewares, books and records. You might come across some great finds, though you'll have to dig. Revenue from the store goes directly to the Montréal women's shelter, Le Chaînon.

Friperie St-LaurentFASHION, VINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3976 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mSherbrooke)

One of the Plateau's best-loved friperies (vintage shops) has a small but well-chosen selection of clothing from decades past. Fur-lined bomber jackets, elegant 1950s dresses, cowboy and motorcycle boots, tweed jackets and old college sweaters are all part of the treasure chest. On recent visits, we even spotted kilts and lederhosen.

2Neighborhood Walk
Strolling the Plateau

Start Carré St-Louis

End Rue Cherrier

Length 3km; one to two hours

Start at the 1Carré St-Louis, a pleasant, green, shady oasis with a splashing fountain that’s a popular spot for lazing and people-watching. It’s surrounded by beautiful old houses built for wealthy French residents in the 19th century.

Walk around the park (stopping for a coffee at the summertime cafe near Ave Laval), then walk up Rue St-Denis. On your right you’ll pass the majestic buildings of the former 2Institut des Sourdes-Muettes (now known as the Institut Raymond-Dewar) – note the little silver cupola.

Continue up Rue St-Denis and turn left onto Rue Rachel. You’ll see the baroque 3Église St-Jean-Baptiste, its enormous interior decorated with gilded wood and pink marble. The acoustics are excellent, making it popular for concerts.

Exiting the church, look right to see the winged angel on the imposing Sir George-Étienne Cartier monument, way down the end of the street at the leafy base of Mont-Royal. Directly opposite the church stands 4Les Cours Rachel, once a boarding school but now converted into condos.

Walk northeast along Rue Rachel Est and turn right onto 5Avenue Châteaubriand. A rundown street in the 1970s, today this narrow lane has been spruced up with blue, green and turquoise paint and potted plants hanging outside the windows. Here you’ll spot another of this town’s signature objects: the external staircase.

Zigzag down to Rue Roy and Rue St-André. You'll find 6Place Roy, a tiny leafy square with an art installation by sculptor Michel Goulet. Draw your own conclusions about the meaning of the world map juxtaposed with a random arrangement of chairs, some knocked to the ground.

Walk along Rue Roy and turn left down Rue St-Christophe. Continue to Rue Cherrier to see a lovely 71918 Italian Renaissance building. It once housed the Palestre Nationale but now belongs to UQAM and Agora de la Danse, a key name in Montréal's contemporary dance scene.

2Sports & Activities

Fitz & FollwellWALKING, BICYCLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-840-0739; www.fitzandfollwell.co; 115 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest; tours $75-100, bike hire per 4/8hrs $20/30; h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80)

This recommended outfit offers a range of walking and cycling tours around Montréal. Tours have very much a local flavor, as young, knowledgeable guides take you on day and evening rides, stopping for a park picnic, visiting microbreweries, or exploring the leafy paths of Mont-Royal.

There are also walking tours that explore the history, culture and food of Blvd St-Laurent; fascinating rambles through Old Montréal; and curious walks through the Underground City.

If you prefer to explore on your own, Fitz & Follwell rents bikes – stylish three- or eight-speed Linus models. If you have small children, you can rent Yuba Mundo bikes that carry up to three kids in back, or Babboe City cargo bikes.

Le Grand CycleBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-525-1414; www.legrandcycle.com; 901 Rue Cherrier Est; bicycle per day/24hr from $25/30; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; mSherbrooke)

Le Grand Cycle is a fine place to get you rolling, with good eight-speed city bikes for rent plus all the extras.

La Maison des CyclistesBICYCLE RENTAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.velo.qc.ca; 1251 Rue Rachel Est; h10:30am-5pm Mon-Fri; mMont-Royal)

The nerve center of Québec’s biking culture, this three-story house in the Plateau is an essential stop for avid cyclists. There's a shop with cycling books, maps and guides; the Velo Québec association (involved in developing one of the largest bicycling networks in North America); a travel agency for planning biking trips; info on events; and cozy cafe Marius.

It’s right along the bike path above Parc La Fontaine.

Studio BlissSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-437-399; www.studiobliss.ca; 3841 Blvd St-Laurent; 1hr yoga class $18, 1hr massage $79; h10am-10pm; mSherbrooke)

Equal parts spa and yoga studio, Studio Bliss aims to rejuvenate the body by a variety of passive and kinetic means. Vinyasa and Hatha classes are offered daily, and there are two meditation workshops a week. You can also opt for a hot-stone treatment, chocolate wrap, exfoliation and various massages.

Aveda Montréal Lifestyle Salon Spa & AcademySPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-499-9494; www.avedamontreal-lifestyle.com; 3613 Blvd St-Laurent; h10am-8pm Tue & Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

You'll find friendly staff and a wide range of treatments and pampering packages at this well-liked spa and salon. A favorite is the Rejuvenating Experience ($175), featuring a rosemary-mint body wrap, a 30-minute massage and a manicure and pedicure. You can also opt for facials, various massages (chakra balancing massage, stone massage), waxing, peels and haircuts.

BIRD-WATCHING ON 'THE MOUNTAIN'

Parc du Mont-Royal has some fantastic bird-watching opportunities, particularly in spring. A great number of migrators use the area as a passage on their way to breeding grounds. In both the park and in nearby Cimetière Mont-Royal, look out for screech owls, red-shouldered hawks, northern orioles, rose-breasted grosbeaks, bluebirds, olive-sided flycatchers, indigo buntings and many more species. In winter hardy bird-lovers come out for walks along the bird-feeder circuit that goes around the Summit Loop (the park places feeders out from November to April). Guided walks with a member of the park’s conservation staff are held on Saturdays from January to mid-March. Contact Les Amis de la Montagne (www.lemontroyal.qc.ca), located at Maison Smith, for more information.

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Neighborhood Top Five

1Exploring the fresh produce, hawker stalls, and delightful seafood, sandwiches and desserts at the colorful Marché Jean-Talon.

2Snacking on the best bagels in the world – bar none – at St-Viateur Bagel.

3Spoiling yourself with some of Montréal’s best dining options at charmers such as Van Horne and Lawrence.

4Trolling quirky neighborhood shops such as Monastiraki for retro junk – or treasures, depending on your taste.

5Enjoying old-world pleasures by nursing an espresso at Caffè Italia and munching on smoked meat on rye at Lester’s.

Explore Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

These three neighborhoods are a foodie’s nirvana, distilled from a potent mish-mash of Italian, Portuguese, Jewish and Québecois roots. The good thing is there’s plenty of walking to be done to burn off those extra calories. Most of the area can be explored in a day, though you might want to return once or twice in the evening for dinner.

Start your day at the flavor cornucopia that is Marché Jean-Talon, grabbing fresh fruit or a crepe for breakfast before diving deeper into Little Italy, taking in the 1930s ceiling fresco of Mussolini at the Église Madonna Della Difesa. Stroll down Blvd St-Laurent, where the green-white-red flag is proudly displayed, pausing for an espresso at Caffè Italia and some fine contemporary art at galleries near Rue Beaubien.

A bus along the boulevard can bring you back downtown if you’re tired out, or drop you near Ave Fairmount. This area is a good spot to explore Mile End, a multiethnic neighborhood with great dining along Ave Laurier, fantastic bagels and increasingly trendy hangouts at its epicenter: Rue St-Viateur and Blvd St-Laurent.

Further west, Outremont is largely a residence for wealthy Francophones. Fabulous old mansions lie on leafy streets northwest of Rue Bernard. There is also a significant Hassidic community in Outremont.

Local Life

ACafe culture This area has some of Montréal’s most charming cafes and teahouses, including Cardinal Tea Room.

ACatch the game Purchase provisions at Marché Jean-Talon, then head to a park (such as Parc Outremont) for a picnic.

AFor the kitchen Cruise the high-end cooking boutiques such as Les Touilleurs or try a cooking course at Mezza Luna Cooking School.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Though not ideally located, Laurier on the orange line gives you access to Ave Laurier, while Jean-Talon (on the orange and blue lines) puts you within easy reach of Marché Jean-Talon. Outremont has its own station on the blue line.

ABus Bus 55 runs along Blvd St-Laurent; bus 46 runs on part of Rue Bernard and Ave Laurier; bus 80 runs along Ave du Parc.

AWalking This is a large area to walk, but strolling along Laurier, Bernard or Saint-Viateur, as well as parts of Blvd St-Laurent, makes for enjoyable exploring.

Lonely Planet's Top Tip

A growing number of bars, restaurants and cafes are popping up along Rue Beaubien, making it a fine place to explore.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Impasto

A Arts Cafe

A Sparrow

A Van Horne

A Kitchen Galerie

Best Places to Drink

For reviews, see Click here

A Isle de Garde

* Dieu du Ciel

A Gainzbar

A Notre Dame des Quilles

A La Buvette Chez Simone

Best Places to Shop

For reviews, see Click here

A Drawn & Quarterly

A Frank & Oak

A Monastiraki

A Galerie CO

1Sights

Marché Jean-TalonMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7075 Ave Casgrain; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 8pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sun; mJean-Talon)

The pride of Little Italy, this huge covered market is Montréal’s most diverse. Many chefs buy ingredients for their menus here or in the specialty-food shops nearby. Three long covered aisles are packed with merchants selling fruit, vegetables, flowers and baked goods. The market is flanked by delis and cafe-restaurants with tiny patios. Even in winter the market is open under big tents.

Snackers can nibble on sandwiches, crepes, tacos, pastries, ice cream, fresh juices and excellent coffee. Be sure to stop by Le Marché des Saveurs du Québec, one of the few large stores in town devoted entirely to Québec specialties such as wine and cider, fresh cheeses, smoked meats, preserves and a huge number of tasteful gifts.

Marché Jean-TalonCHRIS CHEADLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Église Madonna Della DifesaCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.difesa.ca; 6800 Ave Henri-Julien; h7:30-9am Mon-Fri, 7:30am-noon Sun, 2-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun; mJean-Talon)

Our Lady of Protection Church was built in 1919 according to the drawings of Florence-born Guido Nincheri (1885–1973), who spent the next two decades working on the Roman-Byzantine structure. The artist painted the church’s remarkable frescoes, including one of Mussolini on horseback with a bevy of generals in the background. The work honored the formal recognition by Rome of the pope’s sovereignty over Vatican City in 1929 and was unveiled a few years later as Hitler came to power.

During WWII, Nincheri and others who had worked on the building were interned by the Canadian authorities. The fresco can be viewed above the high marble altar.

Église St-Viateur d’OutremontCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.saintviateurdoutremont.org; 1175 Ave Laurier Ouest; h4pm-5:30pm Tue & Thu, 4:30-6pm Sat, 10:30am-noon Sun; mLaurier, then bus 51)

If you are already on Ave Laurier for the shopping and food, poke your head into this church, opened in 1913. The interior is pure Gothic Revival with ornate paintings, stained glass, hand-crafted cabinets and sculptures by renowned Montréal artists; the impressive ceiling vaults depict the life of St Viateur. It’s also home to a magnificent, century-old Casavant organ.

Parc OutremontPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Outremont & Ave St-Viateur; mRosemont)

One of Montréal’s best-kept secrets, this small leafy green space is a great place for a bit of quiet time after exploring the neighborhood. Lovely Victorian homes ring the park, and benches provide a nice vantage point for viewing the small pond with fountain. This is a good spot to go, with an ice cream from Le Bilboquet, two blocks northwest.

Parc OutremontMEGAPRESS / ALAMY ©

Parc St ViateurPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave l'Épée & Rue Bernard; mOutremont)

Just off Ave Bernard a small pedestrian lane leads to this small but handsomely landscaped neighborhood park. It has a bridge over a narrow circular waterway, which draws ice skaters in winter (bring your own skates).

2Neighborhood Walk
Exploring Mile End & Outremont

Start Le Cagibi Café

End Parc St-Viateur

Length 2.5km; one to two hours

Multicultural Mile End and Outremont are home to Hassidic Jews, Portuguese, Greeks and Italians, among others. You’ll find eclectic cafes, eye-catching boutiques, vegetarian restaurants, lively bars, leafy parks and great bagels.

Start at one of Mile End’s great little spots, 1Le Cagibi Café. Grab a coffee for fuel (return at night for film screenings, live bands, book launches and other eclectic fare).

Turn right along 2Boulevard St-Laurent and take in some of the galleries and curio shops, such as the prestigious Galerie Simon Blais.

Continue along Blvd St-Laurent and turn right onto Ave Fairmount. Near the corner is 3Au Papier Japonais, a sweet little store specializing in handmade paper, art books, origami sets and more.

Made famous in a Mordecai Richler novel, 4Wilensky’s Light Lunch hasn’t changed much since opening in 1937. For grilled salami and bologna sandwiches, this is your place.

Continue along Ave Fairmount. Stop for a bagel taste-test at famous 5Fairmount Bagel, archrival of St-Viateur Bagel.

Continue on Fairmount, turn left on Ave de l’Épee and right on Ave Laurier. The magnificent church on the corner is 6Église St-Viateur d'Outremont, a neighborhood icon.

Exiting the church, turn right up Ave Bloomfield and in two blocks you’ll reach 7Parc Outremont, a beautiful park with a tiny lake and a playground. Lovely Victorian homes surround it.

Exit the park onto Ave Outremont, continuing until Rue Bernard. Go left to 8Le Bilboquet, one of the best ice-cream shops in Montréal.

Zigzag over to 9Parc St-Viateur, another peaceful green space in the neighborhood, and enjoy your ice cream.

5Eating

5Mile End & Outremont

Little Italy is a neighborhood full of old-fashioned trattorias and lively little cafes, where the heavenly aroma of freshly brewed espresso hangs in the air. Stylish new eateries, including some of the best in Montréal, have also established a strong presence here.

Mile End and Outremont are duly blessed in the dining department. Strewn with an impressive variety of Parisian-style bistros, high-end ethnic eateries and low-key cafes, these neighborhoods also boast two oven-baked stars of the city’s culinary history: the famous Montréal bagel shops.

La Panthère VerteVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-508-5564; www.lapanthereverte.com; 160 Rue St-Viateur Est; mains $6-11; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; Wv; mLaurier)

Green in every sense of the word, La Panthère Verte is a casual vegetarian spot, where you can stop for delicious falafel sandwiches, energy-charging juices and smoothies, and fresh salad specials that change daily. Plants, a zippy green paint job and an elegant chandelier help set the scene in the industrial-chic space.

Arts CafeINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-274-0919; www.artscafemontreal.com; 201 Ave Fairmount Ouest; mains $11-16; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

The Arts Cafe has instant appeal with its plank floors, white clapboard walls and sculptural knickknacks (a frenzy of light bulbs above the windows, vintage farmhouse relics) that adorn the space. But it's the food that warrants the most attention. Excellent brunch/breakfasts are served all day here.

Try mouthwatering dishes such as the waffles (served with Guinea-fowl leg, wild berries and pumpkin cream), poutine (made with duck confit, a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce) or kale salad (with wild berries, mascarpone and pork belly). Be prepared for long lines on weekends.

La Croissanterie FigaroCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-278-6567; www.lacroissanteriefigaro.com; 5200 Rue Hutchison; sandwiches $9-13; h7am-1am; mLaurier)

With its deco fixtures, wrought-iron marble-topped tables and lovely terrace, this charming neighborhood cafe has a Parisian vibe, and has long been a popular meeting spot for well-heeled locals. Stop in for warm, buttery croissants (among Montréal's best), baguette sandwiches or rich desserts. It's also a fine place to nurse a coffee or a cocktail.

Juliette et ChocolatCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-510-5651; www.julietteetchocolat.com; 377 Ave Laurier Ouest; desserts $5-10; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; W; mLaurier)

Montréal’s chocolate lovers unite at this sweet two-level cafe on Laurier. The menu is built around chocolate, from decadent piping-hot crepes to milk shakes, brownies and chocolate ‘shots,’ not to mention cups of creamy hot chocolate. Black-and-white tile floors, big windows and an inviting ambience seduce lingerers. There are five other locations in town.

Le Cagibi CaféVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-509-1199; www.lecagibi.ca; 5490 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $8-10; h6pm-midnight Mon, from 9am Tue-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun; v; mRosemont)

Music-lovers and Plateau eccentrics hold court at this plant- and antique-filled vegetarian restaurant by day, bar by night. The menu features tasty burritos, veggie burgers, chili and baked goods. There’s a good entertainment lineup by night: DJs, live bands, film screenings, book readings, slide shows and other eclectic fare.

Cardinal Tea RoomBRITISH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecardinaltea.com; 5326 Blvd St-Laurent; small teapot around $5, snacks $5-10; h11am-7pm Thu-Sun; mLaurier)

Above Sparrow (Cardinal's food-focused sibling), you'll find a two-story tearoom set with a glittering chandelier, velvet couches, framed artwork and fresh flowers on the tables. It's all very prim and proper, right down to the delicate China and tiny teaspoons, worthy of collecting. Of course, this is Mile End, so that means groovy bossa nova tunes and hip waitstaff.

The teas are great although on the traditional side, and there are snacks on hand (scones, quiche, cucumber sandwiches). A pianist plays on weekends (from about 1pm or 2pm).

Le BilboquetICE CREAM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-276-0414; www.bilboquet.ca; 1311 Rue Bernard Ouest; cones $2.50-6; h11am-midnight Jun-Aug, to 8pm mid-Mar–May & Sep-Dec, closed Jan–mid-Mar; mLaurier)

A legendary institution in Montréal, Le Bilboquet whips up highly addictive homemade ice cream and refreshing sorbets. On warm summer nights (and even on chilly evenings), long lines snake out the door. Although there’s no seating inside, there are a couple of sidewalk tables, and some lovely little parks nearby.

Comptoir 21FISH & CHIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21 Rue St-Viateur Ouest; mains $8-14; hnoon-11pm; mLaurier)

Slide onto a stool around the horseshoe-shaped wooden counter and feast on tender morsels of fish and chips, served on blue-and-white checked paper in pretty wooden baskets. Bonus points for the clever spray bottles of vinegar and the range of sauces (aside from the classic tartare) available. It's a cozy space that draws a good cross-section of Montréal society.

Café OlimpicoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-495-0746; 124 Rue St-Viateur; coffees $2-4; h7am-midnight; W; mLaurier)

Its espresso is excellent, yet this rocking, no-frills Italian cafe is all about atmosphere, as young good-looking baristas whip up smooth caffeinated drinks to the jumble of hipsters, tourists and elderly gentlemen who pass through. It’s big on sports (especially the Italian football league), so there are TVs inside.

In spring and summer, the benches of the sunny outdoor terrace are a people-watching paradise.

Fairmount BagelBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 74 Ave Fairmount Ouest; bagels 90¢; h24hr; mLaurier)

One of Montréal’s famed bagel places – people flood in here around the clock to scoop them up the minute they come out of the oven. Bagels are one thing Montréalers don’t get too creative with. They stick to classic sesame or poppy seed varieties, though you can pick up anything from cinnamon to all-dressed here too.

St-Viateur BagelBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stviateurbagel.com; 263 Ave St-Viateur Ouest; bagels 75¢; h24hr; mPlace-des-Arts, then bus 80)

Currently the bagel favorite of Montréal, St-Viateur Bagel was set up in 1957 and has a reputation stretching across Canada and beyond for its perfectly crusty, chewy and slightly sweet creations. The secret to their perfection seems to be boiling in honey water followed by baking in the wood-fired oven. Biting into a warm one straight out of the oven is an absolute delight.

Bagels at St -Viateur BagelELENA ELISSEEVA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lester’sDINER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-213-1313; www.lestersdeli.com; 1057 Rue Bernard Ouest; mains $7-14; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat; mOutremont)

With its art-deco-meets-1950s-diner-style decor and period knickknacks adorning the walls, this famed restaurant attracts a fiercely loyal following of locals looking for the perfect smoked-meat sandwich (the old-fashioned is formidable), but there’s also smoked salmon, potato salad and karnatzel (dried sausage).

Le Petit AlepMIDDLE EASTERN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-270-9361; 191 Rue Jean-Talon Est; mains $6-16; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat; v; mDe Castelnau)

The complex flavors of Syrian-Armenian cuisine draw diners from all over Montréal. A big menu includes hummus, salads and muhammara (spread made of walnuts, garlic, breadcrumbs, pomegranate syrup and cumin), plus beef kebabs smothered in tahini, spices and nuts.

Dine in the bright restaurant (the front wall opens up onto the street during nice weather) or, in the evening, the slightly swish dining room next door.

Invitation VVEGAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-8111; 254 Rue Bernard Ouest; mains $14-20; h11:30am-3pm Tue-Sun, 6-10pm Tue-Sat; v; g160, mBeaubien)S

A game-changer in the world of vegan cuisine, Invitation V serves up creative, beautifully presented dishes in an elegant dining room of white brick and light woods. Start with butternut squash and roasted-red-pepper soup and a round of mushroom satay with peanut sauce, before moving onto curry stew with Jasmine rice or a tempeh burger with sweet-potato fries.

The founders profess a strong commitment to sustainability and use organic, locally sourced products where possible. Good brunches too.

Tri ExpressJAPANESE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-528-5641; www.triexpressrestaurant.com; 1650 Ave Laurier Est; sushi platters $22; h11am-9pm Tue-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Fri, 4-10pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

Trì Dư prepares superb sushi and sashimi plates, along with inventive salads and soups with a hint of his home country of Vietnam in this hip, vintage-filled eatery just off the beaten path. You can't go wrong with the Omakase (a mix of sashimi, sushi and maki), a lobster salad (with grapefruit, avocado and mango) and the delicious 'sushi pizza'.

The downside: the space is always crowded (tip: call ahead), and there's no alcohol here – you're not allowed to bring your own either. Also cash only (and French only for the menu).

SparrowINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-507-1642; 5322 Blvd St-Laurent; mains $13-18; h6pm-3am daily & 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

In a vintage chic dining room, Mile Enders feast on mussels with white wine and fries, pan-roasted trout, butter chicken and other unfussy but tasty bistro classics. For the price, it's hard to find a better meal in this city. Food aside, Sparrow serves up excellent cocktails, and the festive vibe continues until late into the night.

The Sunday roast and weekend brunch are also quite good (and the only times when reservations are accepted; call ahead).

Van HorneFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-508-0828; www.vanhornerestaurant.com; 1268 Ave Van Horne; mains $21-28; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri & 6-10:30pm Tue-Sat; mOutremont)

Sophisticated, market-sourced works of art are beautifully presented in this intimate spot that pays tribute to American businessman and gourmet William Van Horne. Chef Jens Ruoff has a limited but rotating menu, featuring delectable choices such as Québec wapiti (elk) with smoked sunchokes, Brussels sprouts and bacon, or skate wing with clams, red cabbage and vermouth emulsion.

Even the desserts are artful: try the deconstructed Snickers bar (peanuts, caramel, chocolate and sea salt).

LawrenceEUROPEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-503-1070; www.lawrencerestaurant.com; 5201 Blvd St-Laurent; mains brunch $12-16, dinner $26-30; h11:30am-3pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-11pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

This gorgeously designed, high-style hipster eatery helmed by British chef Marc Cohen of Sparrow serves up some of the best brunch in Montréal. With high windows looking out over the Main and an airy vibe, it’s a perfect spot to sink your teeth into smoked trout with scrambled eggs or scones with jam and clotted cream.

In the evening, you can feast on clam and pig-skin stew or stewed octopus with chickpeas. Just don’t expect anything too conventional.

PhayathaiTHAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-272-3456; www.phayathailaurier.com; 107 Ave Laurier Ouest; mains $10-23; hnoon-2:30pm & 5:30-10:30pm; mLaurier)

Although the jury is out on who serves the city’s best Thai food, this elegant little restaurant on Laurier is a strong contender. It’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, with delicious and flavorful seafood soup, tender boneless roasted duck and satisfying pad thai.

Kitchen GalerieFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-315-8994; www.kitchengalerie.com; 60 Rue Jean-Talon Est; mains $30-50; h6-10pm Tue-Sat; mJean-Talon)

Jovial chefs Mathieu Cloutier and Mathieu Bourdages are well situated by the Marché Jean-Talon for their succulently fresh market offerings, which change daily. Expect carnivore-oriented choices such as bavette saignant (flank steak) with mashed potatoes, or foie gras in various incarnations (the most famous of which is prepared in a dishwasher!). Be sure to call and reserve.

LeméacFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-270-0999; www.restaurantlemeac.com; 1045 Ave Laurier Ouest; mains dinner $26-46, brunch $12-18; h11:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

A well-respected name among the well-heeled Laurier crowd, Lémeac has a light and airy setting with huge windows overlooking the street, a lively ambience and beautifully turned-out plates. It’s a popular brunch spot on weekends, and at night – the after-10pm multicourse prix-fixe menu is excellent value at $25.

THE GREAT BAGEL DEBATE

The Montréal bagel has a long and venerable history. It all started in 1915 when Isadore and Fanny Shlafman, Jews from Ukraine, opened a tiny bakery on Rue Roy in the Plateau. They made the yeast bread rings according to a recipe they’d brought from the bakery where Shlafman’s father worked. In 1919 they started the Montréal Bagel Bakery in a wooden shack just off Blvd St-Laurent, a few doors down from Schwartz’s deli.

After WWII many Holocaust survivors emigrated to Montréal and the bagel market boomed. Isadore Shlafman decided to build a bakery in the living room of his house at 74 Ave Fairmount, where he opened Fairmount Bagel in 1950. Meanwhile Myer Lewkowicz, a Polish Jew who had survived Auschwitz, went on to establish St-Viateur Bakery in 1957. A legendary rivalry was born and scores of other bagel bakeries sprang up in their wake.

Ask any Montréaler whose bagel is best and passions will flare. Year in and year out tireless critics tour the main bagel bakeries to chat, chew and cogitate. In recent years St-Viateur has edged out Fairmount for the number-one slot. But locals do agree on one thing: they believe that Montréal’s bagels are superior to their New York cousins. The Montréal bagel is lighter, sweeter and crustier, and chewy but not dense thanks to an enriched eggy dough that looks almost like batter. The dough hardly rises and the tender rings are formed by hand and boiled in a honey-and-water solution before baking in a wood-burning oven.

5Little Italy

FortuneMEXICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6448 Blvd St-Laurent; tacos around $5; h11:30am-10pm Tue-Sun; v; mBeaubien)

For a quick bite when you're strolling St-Laurent, stop in this attractive, breadbox-sized eatery for delicious tacos (fish, pork, chicken or roasted cauliflower). Sit on a wooden stool at the counter or at a simple picnic-style table, sipping a bottle of Red Stripe or a cool margarita, and watching the world stroll past. Order at least three if you're hungry.

Caffè ItaliaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-495-0059; 6840 Blvd St-Laurent; sandwiches around $8, coffees $2-3; h6am-11pm; mDe Castelnau)

This old-time Italian cafe has a loyal neighborhood following for its unpretentious charm. Plain Formica counters and faded Italian soccer posters set the stage for lingering over excellent espresso and unfussy sandwiches. Depending on how things are going (with AC Milan football club), staff can be grumpy and terse or enthusiastically welcoming.

Dépanneur Le Pick UpDINER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-8011; http://depanneurlepickup.com; 7032 Rue Waverly; mains $5-9; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; v; mDe Castelnau)

A hipster favorite, unpretentious Le Pick Up began as an authentic 1950s dépanneur (convenience store) and snack bar before the current owners took it over and added zines (homemade magazines) to the daily necessities on the shelves and '80s synth-pop to the stereo. Nosh on yummy veggie burgers, or grilled haloumi and pulled-pork sandwiches at the grill counter.

You can also soak up some rays at the picnic tables outside.

Alati-CasertaBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-3013; www.alaticaserta.com; 277 Rue Dante; dessert $3-6; h10am-5pm Mon, 8am-6pm Tue & Wed, 8am-7pm Thu & Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; mJean-Talon)

For more than four decades, this marvelous family-owned pastry shop in Little Italy has wowed Montréalers with its deliciously decadent cannoli, almond cake, tiramisu and sfogliatelle (pastries stuffed with orange and ricotta cheese). Arrive early for the best selection.

Pizzeria NapoletanaITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-276-8226; www.napoletana.com; 189 Rue Dante; mains $12-18; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri & Sat, noon-10:30pm Sun; mDe Castelnau)

Homemade pasta sauces and thick-sauced pizzas (more than 30 different types of each) draw Italian-loving crowds here all year long. The pizza crust – nice and crunchy – is the secret to Napoletana’s success. The dining room is simple with neat wood tables and chairs. Lines can be long, particularly in summer, so avoid peak hours. Bring your own wine.

Cash only.

ImpastoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-419-4448; www.impastomtl.ca; 48 Rue Dante; mains $28-35; h11:30am-2pm Thu & Fri, 5-11pm Tue-Sat; mDe Castelnau)

There's much buzz surrounding this polished Italian eatery – in no small part owing to the heavy-hitting foodies behind it: best-selling cookbook author Stefano Faita and celebrated chef Michele Forgione. Both have deep connections to Italian cooking, obvious in brilliant dishes such as braised beef cheeks with Savoy-style potatoes, artic char with cauliflower purée and lentils, and house-made pastas like busiate with lobster.

Try to snag a counter spot facing the open kitchen to watch the masters in actions. Reserve ahead.

Little ItalyMEGAPRESS / ALAMY/ALAMY ©

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Mile End & Outremont

oLa Buvette Chez SimoneWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-750-6577; 4869 Ave du Parc; h4pm-1am; mLaurier)

An artsy-chic crowd of (mostly) francophone bons vivants and professionals loves this cozy wine bar. The staff know its vino and the extensive list is complemented by a gourmet tapas menu. Weekends, the place is jammed from cinc-à-sept (the lively 5pm to 7pm happy hour) into the wee hours.

Alone, you can comfortably park it on a barstool, though you probably won’t be solo for long.

Dieu du CielBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-490-9555; www.dieuduciel.com; 29 Ave Laurier Ouest; h3pm-3am Mon-Fri, 1pm-3am Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

Packed every night with a young, francophone crowd, this unpretentious bar serves a phenomenal rotating menu of its famous microbrews, running from classic ales to rich stouts such as the imperial coffee stout Péché Mortel.

Chez SergeSPORTS BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-663-4227; 5301 Blvd St-Laurent; h5pm-3am; mSt-Laurent, then bus 55)

How can you go wrong with a bra-adorned moose head on the wall? Hockey games, unbridled kitsch and a mechanical bull reel in neighborhood kids. With cold beer, flashing lights and staff who love dancing (sometimes on the bar), this homey spot gets out of control during hockey and soccer seasons. Reserve ahead (for a table) on game nights.

KabinetCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-274-3555; 92 Rue Laurier Ouest; h8pm-3am Tue-Sat; mLaurier)

Paying tribute to all things Russian, this stylish little cocktail den draws a slightly more sophisticated crowd than the average Mile End hipster haunt. You can sip well-made drinks such as the Rasputin (bourbon, Lillet blanc, orange liqueur) and nibble on pelmeni (dumplings), while taking in czarist regalia adorning the cozy, bunker-like space.

DatchaCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bardatcha.com; 98 Rue Laurier Ouest; h11pm-3am Thu-Sat; mLaurier)

Datcha is a small night spot with a tiny dance floor that draws a laid-back, groove-loving crowd. Eclectic DJs from around the globe spin here, but the best part of Datcha is the fog machine. Party like it's 1987, while sipping Moscow Mules (vodka, ginger syrup, lime juice) from the adjoining bar Kabinet.

Bar Sans NomCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5295 Ave du Parc; h5pm-3am; g80, mPlace-des-Arts)

Although it sits along busy Ave du Parc, the 'Bar without name' feels like a well-kept secret, owing to its lack of signage and discreet entrance. Once inside, you can opt for drinks among the potted palms and sleek, well-lit counter tops up front, or the Moroccan-style drinking den of low-hanging lamps and plush couches in back.

Other features: nicely mixed cocktails and a well-dressed crowd (some would say a bit too cool for school).

Ping Pong ClubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5788 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-3am; mRosemont)

For a touch of juvenile excitement, join young hipsters at this retro bar for microbrews, comfort food and games. Although there's only one (coveted) ping-pong table, there's also table football and air hockey, and staff can loan board games (Jenga). There's sports on TV, though the feel (with picnic tables, candles and the odd DJ night) is decidely not a sports bar.

Baldwin BarmacieBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.baldwinbarmacie.com; 115 Ave Laurier Ouest; h5pm-3am Tue-Sat; mLaurier)

Loud music, live DJs and beautiful 20- and 30-somethings rule this small, apothecary-themed lounge and club. Showy staff mix specialty cocktails while poppy 1960s-inspired design fills your party prescription for flirting. Don’t let its location in a quiet residential location fool you, this joint goes off.

6Little Italy

Isle de GardeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.isledegarde.com; 1039 Rue Beaubien Est; h3:30pm-1:30am Mon-Wed, 11:30am-3am Thu & Fri, 1pm-3am Sat & Sun; W; mBeaubien)

Beer lovers shouldn't miss this buzzing amber-lit brasserie, which has a dazzling (and ever-changing) selection of unique microbrews on tap. Friendly bar staff dole out Belgian-style farmhouse ales, American-style IPAs and creamy stouts, with one-of-a-kind brews (such as Brasseurs Illimités smoked porter that tastes like drinking a campfire) among the options.

There's also kombucha (a fermented tea) for the nondrinkers. When hunger strikes, you can indulge in comfort fare such as house fries, mac and cheese, ribs and veggie chili.

GainzbarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gainzbar.com; 6289 Rue St-Hubert; h3pm-3am; W; mBeaubien)

Tucked away among the humdrum storefronts lining Rue St-Hubert, Gainzbar feels like an undiscovered gem. Set with velvet couches, brassy fixtures and red walls, this low-lit drinking den has a bygone air, with live jazz trios adding to the ambience. It's a fine place for straightforward drinks (no fancy cocktails here) and good conversation with new friends.

Notre Dame des QuillesBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/notredamedesquilles; 32 Rue Beaubien Est; h5pm-3am Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun; mBeaubien)

Does drinking improve your bowling game? That seems to be the eternal question at this hipster outpost near Little Italy, where two free lanes have been set up with pint-sized pins. There’s a good mix of Anglophones and Francophones here, and there are fun kitsch-filled nights of karaoke, bingo and spinning DJs.

Vice VersaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6631 Blvd St-Laurent; h3pm-3am Mon-Wed, from noon Thu-Sun; mDe Castelnau)

Vice Versa is a laid-back spot that draws a loyal neighborhood following who come for the first-rate craft-beer selection. There are more than 30 varieties on tap, with a strong emphasis on local and regional brews. You can match those quaffs with bison burgers, cheese platters, smoked-meat sandwiches and pulled-pork poutine.

The tin ceiling, exposed brick and classic rock make a fine setting to start (or end) the night.

3Entertainment

Théâtre OutremontTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-495-9944; www.theatreoutremont.ca; 1248 Rue Bernard Ouest; hbox office 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; mOutremont)

Built in 1929, this theater was both a repertory cinema and a major concert hall until it was shuttered in the late 1980s. The municipality of Outremont later brought it back to life and the theater was reopened in 2001. Today, the repertoire is wide-ranging with concerts (jazz, folk, flamenco, blues), dance performances (ballet, modern) and family events (marionettes, animated films).

There are also regular Monday film screenings (usually at 4pm and 7:30pm), which features indie cinema from around the globe.

Théâtre RialtoCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-770-7773; www.theatrerialto.ca; 5723 Ave du Parc; mRosemont)

This grand 1920s theater was inspired by the Paris Opera house and has recently been restored to its former glory following years of neglect. The repertoire is a bit hit-or-miss, with nights devoted to Elivs and Beatles impersonators, along with swing dancing, burlesque balls and tango shows.

7Shopping

Drawn & QuarterlyBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-279-2224; http://211blog.drawnandquarterly.com; 211 Rue Bernard Ouest; h11am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; mOutremont)

The flagship store of this cult independent comic-book and graphic-novel publisher has become something of a local literary haven. Cool book launches take place here, and the quaint little shop sells all sorts of reading matter including children’s books, vintage Tintin comics, recent fiction and art books.

Galerie COHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galerie-co.com; 5235 Blvd St-Laurent; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mLaurier)S

Galerie Co sells all manner of beautiful objects, including cushions adorned with animal prints, artfully simple vases made from recycled glass, wooden watches, rolls of eye-catching wallpaper and jewelry made of repurposed cutlery. Galerie CO (from ‘eCOlogy, COmmunity and eCOnomy') supports products that benefit the environment and sustainable development.

Frank & OakCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.frankandoak.com; 160 Rue St-Viateur Est; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

Although the selection isn't huge, this dapper menswear shop is worth a visit for classic, well-made trousers, button-downs, sweaters, leather belts and footwear. The prices are great considering it's designed and manufactured in Montréal. There's also a coffee bar and a barber on-site – meaning you can get a pick-me-up, a trim and a new wardrobe all in one place.

MonastirakiVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.monastiraki.blogspot.ca; 5478 Blvd St-Laurent; hnoon-6pm Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

This unclassifiable store named after a flea-market neighborhood in Athens calls itself a ‘hybrid curiosity shop/art space’, but that doesn’t do justice to what illustrator Billy Mavreas sells: 1960s comic books, contemporary zines (homemade magazines), silkscreen posters, and myriad antique and collectible knickknacks, as well as recent works mainly by local graphic artists.

It’s a must-visit for artsy hipster types, but nearly everyone can find something in this carefully selected, fascinating jumble.

Le Marché des Saveurs du QuébecFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-3811; www.lemarchedessaveurs.com; 280 Pl du Maré du Nord; h9am-6pm Sat-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri; mJean-Talon)

Everything here is Québecois, from the food to the handmade soaps to one of the best collections of artisanal local beer, maple products, jams and cheeses in the city. The store was established so local producers could gain wider exposure for their regional products, and it’s a joy to browse.

V de V MaisonHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vdevmaison.com; 5042 Blvd St-Laurent; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

V de V is packed with striking designs that evoke both a modern and vintage aesthetic, making it a fun place to browse for gift ideas. Among the finds: aromatic candles, minichalkboards, deer-head-shaped hooks, gilt-edged drinking glasses, elegant table linens and glass globes with Edison bulbs. You can also have Instagram photos printed on woodblocks for display.

Au Papier JaponaisORIGAMI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-276-6863; www.aupapierjaponais.com; 24 Ave Fairmount Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; mLaurier)

You might never guess how many guises Japanese paper can come in until you visit this gorgeous little shop, which stocks more than 800 varieties. Origami kits and art books make great gift ideas, as do the elegant tea pots, pottery and Buddha boards (where you can 'paint' ephemeral works with water).

The store is also an arts and crafts hub and offers fun, hands-on workshops.

Style LaboVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stylelabo-deco.com; 5765 Blvd St-Laurent; h10:30am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11:30am-5pm Sun; mRosemont)

Owners Anne Defay and Romain Castelli mix industrial remnants with quirky antique signage, farmers’ furniture and even vintage dentistry equipment in this emporium of tools and gear from yesteryear. They also have accessories ranging from designer clock radios to old flags. An essential stop for feathering your loft.

Galerie Simon BlaisART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galeriesimonblais.com; 5420 Blvd St-Laurent; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 5pm Sat; mLaurier)

One of the most prestigious galleries in Canada, Simon Blais carries works by well known international and domestic artists such as Lucien Freud, Antoni Tàpies and Jean-Paul Riopelle as well as emerging contemporary artists from Montréal and Québec.

Les TouilleursHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-278-0008; www.lestouilleurs.com; 152 Ave Laurier Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; mLaurier)

Beautifully designed Les Touilleurs celebrates Mile End’s love affair with good food, presenting gorgeous high-end cookware and cookbooks by local and international chefs. There’s a very popular teaching kitchen at the back of the shop, but workshops sell out well in advance. Most courses are held in French but attendees can usually ask questions in English.

Quincaillerie DanteHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-2057; 6851 Rue St-Dominique; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mDe Castelnau)

This quirky little Italian-owned hardware and cooking supply store is a household name, selling everything from first-class pots and pans to espresso makers, fishing rods and hunting gear.

PhonopolisMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.phonopolis.ca; 207 Rue Bernard Ouest; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; mOutremont)

Indie rock, jazz, blues, folk and world music – and hybrids thereof – are the raison d’être of this little record shop, which sells (and buys) LPs and CDs.

Un Amour des ThésFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-279-2999; www.amourdesthes.com; 1224 Rue Bernard Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; mOutremont)

More than 260 types of loose tea sit in canisters behind the counter of this charming shop. It stocks classic leaf varieties, as well as flavors you probabaly didn't know existed (tea with maple syrup, tea with chocolate oils, cream of Earl Grey). Regular tea workshops (in French) are also held.

Jet-SetterTRAVEL GOODS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-5058; www.jet-setter.ca; 66 Ave Laurier Ouest; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mLaurier)

An orgy of state-of-the-art luggage and clever travel gadgetry, Jet-Setter has inflatable sacks for wine bottles, pocket-sized T-shirts, ‘dry-in-an-instant’ underwear, silk sleep sacks, mini-irons and hairdryers, waterproof hats and loads of other items you might find handy when you hit the road.

NECTAR OF THE GODS

Québec produces about three quarters of the world’s maple syrup, which is perhaps why it enjoys such pride of place, appearing on everything from meat and desserts to foie gras, blended with smoothies and of course in maple beer. French settlers began producing it regularly in the 1800s after learning from Canadian Aboriginal people how to make it from maple-tree sap. Sap is usually extracted in spring after enzymes convert starch into sugars over the winter. Once the weather warms and the sap starts flowing, Québecers head to cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks) out in the countryside. There they sample the first amber riches of the season and do the taffy pull, where steaming maple syrup is poured into the snow and then scooped up on a popsicle stick once it’s cooled.

2Sports & Activities

OvariumSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-271-7515, 877-356-8837; www.ovarium.com; 400 Rue Beaubien Est; floating bath $65, Pulsar $25, Neurospa $40; h8:30am-10pm; mBeaubien)

The excellent staff and the Ovarium weightlessness experience have garnered a loyal following at this day spa. Packages are available, such as the half-day ‘Essential,’ a one-hour flotation bath followed by a one-hour massage ($129). Ovarium’s flotation tanks are egg-shaped tubs filled with water and 2000 cups of Epsom salts, making you gravity-free.

Other unusual treatments here include the 30-minute 'Pulsar', where you don a pair of stereo headphones and light-emitting goggles, which create a rhythmic audiovisual program that purportedly leads to a meditative state. There's also 'Neurospa', where you lie for 30 minutes in a vibrating bed, which is synched to soothing music. Check the website (and Ovarium's Facebook page) for deals and discounts.

Mezza Luna Cooking SchoolCOOKING COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-272-5299; www.ecolemezzaluna.ca; 57 Rue Dante; classes from $75; mDe Castelnau)

Offered in French, English and Italian, Mezza Luna's renowned Italian-cooking classes are held in a small apartment facing a high-end kitchen. They're educational, but not very hands on. The best part is eating the creations at the end. Classes are held several nights a week and on Saturday mornings. Reserve ahead.

Southwest & Outer Montréal

Sights

Eating

Entertainment

Sports & Activities

Southwest & Outer Montréal

Neighborhood Top Five

1Witnessing the soaring architecture of the Oratoire St-Joseph, one of North America’s grandest churches.

2Working off those calories from munching poutine on the Canal de Lachine and its 14km of bike paths.

3Bringing out your green side at one of the world’s largest gardens, the Jardin Botanique and its Insectarium.

4Chilling out with the penguins and many other fish and fowl at the Biodôme, which takes you through four ecosystems.

5Learning about the history of Canadian railroads at the excellent, kid-friendly Musée Ferroviaire Canadien.

Explore Southwest & Outer Montréal

Exploring the outlying residential neighborhoods of Montréal allows you to get a deeper experience of life on the island. A good chunk of them lie to the south and west of downtown (remember that Montréal’s ‘east–west’ streets actually run northeast–southwest). Since they’re far-flung, it’s best to explore them over several days, though it’s possible to combine contiguous areas such as Côte-des-Neiges and Notre-Dame-de-Grâce.

A must-experience is the Canal de Lachine, Montréal’s best biking course. In downtown or Old Montréal, find your way to a Bixi stand or bike-rental outfit and roll down to the Old Port. From there, get on the bike path that winds along the canal and out to Lachine, where several museums and a breezy riverside park await.

It will take at least an hour, but if you don’t want to go that far, stop at the Marché Atwater, walk to Lionel-Groulx metro station and go to Côte-des-Neiges, which lies off the western slope of Parc du Mont-Royal. The magnificent Oratoire St-Joseph and the buzzing campus of the prestigious Université de Montréal are the main draws here. Notre-Dame-de-Grâce (or simply NDG) is a sleepy residential district, livened up by the cafes and restaurants along Ave Monkland.

Also easily accessible by metro is the Olympic Park, which nestles in the heart of the blue-collar Hochelaga-Maisonneuve district. The big draw here is the massive Olympic Stadium, built for the 1976 Olympic Games, the kid-friendly Biodôme, a brand new planetarium and the verdant Jardin Botanique.

Waterfall, Jardin BotaniqueBARRETT & MACKAY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Local Life

ASunning Rent a bike, scoot along the Canal de Lachine and pause along its banks to soak up some rays.

AAhoy there! Montréal is surrounded by rivers, so why not rent a canoe or kayak and go with the flow?

AOver the hill For a good workout, hike from downtown over Mont-Royal to Côte-des-Neiges, following the street of the same name.

Getting There & Away

AMetro Metro access to the area is via Villa-Maria station for NDG, while the Côte-des-Neiges station is for the neighborhood of the same name. To get to the east side of town, take the green metro line to either Pie-IX or Viau.

ABike You can rent a Bixi bike to reach NDG, Petite-Bourgogne, St-Henri and Pointe-St-Charles, and to roll along the Canal de Lachine. Bikes are best avoided in hilly Côte-des-Neiges.

Best Places to Eat

For reviews, see Click here

A Tuck Shop

A Su

A La Louisiane

Best Activities

For reviews, see Click here

A Strøm Nordic Spa

A Skyventure

A H2O Adventures

A Rafting Montréal

A Parc de La Rivière-des-Mille-Îles

Best Panoramic Views

For reviews, see Click here

A Oratoire St-Joseph

A Olympic Stadium

A Parc Nature du Cap-St-Jacques

TOP SIGHT

Oratoire St-Joseph

Oratoire St-JosephDANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

This stunning church built on the flanks of Mont-Royal commands grand views of the the Côte-des-Neiges area and northwest Montréal. The majestic basilica is a tribute to mid-20th-century design as well as an intimate shrine to Brother André, a local saint said to have healed countless people.

The largest shrine ever built in honor of Jesus’ father, this Renaissance-style building was completed in 1960 and commands fine views of the northern slope of Mont-Royal. The oratory dome is visible from anywhere in this part of town.

The oratory is also a tribute to the work of Brother André (1845–1937), the determined monk who first built a little chapel here in 1904. Brother André was said to have healing powers – as word spread, a larger shrine was needed, so the church began gathering funds to build one. Rows of discarded crutches and walking sticks in the basement Votive Chapel testify to this belief and the shrine is warmed by hundreds of candles. When Brother André died at age 91, a million devotees filed past his coffin over the course of six days. His black granite tomb in the Votive Chapel was donated by Québec premier Maurice Duplessis. Brother André was beatified in 1982 and finally canonized in 2010. His heart is on display too, in an upstairs museum dedicated to him.

Religious pilgrims might climb the 300 wooden steps to the oratory on their knees, praying at every step; other visitors take the stone stairs or one of the free shuttle buses from the base parking lot.

Don’t Miss

ABrother André’s room and 1904 chapel

ABrother André’s tomb and heart

AThe Votive Chapel

AThe Grand Organ

Practicalities

ASt-Joseph's Oratory

A GOOGLE MAP

A%514-733-8211

Awww.saint-joseph.org

A3800 Chemin Queen Mary

Ah6am-9:30pm

AmCôte-des-Neiges

1Sights

1Southwest Montréal

Canal de LachineCANAL

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Lachine Canal was built in 1825 as a means of bypassing the treacherous Lachine Rapids on the St Lawrence River. It was closed to shipping in 1970, but the area has been transformed into a 14km-long cycling and pedestrian pathway, with picnic areas and green spaces. Since the canal was reopened for navigation in 2002, flotillas of pleasure and sightseeing boats glide along its calm waters. Old warehouses converted into luxury condos line the canal near Atwater market.

It’s well worth hiring a bike or in-line skates and heading out along the canal path, but try to avoid summer weekends, when it’s particularly crowded. For a canal-side spin, you can hire bikes from Ça Roule in Old Montréal or My Bicyclette near the Atwater market. Kayaks and boats are also available at nearby H2O Adventures. For a leisurely boat ride where somewhere else does the work, take a ride with Le Petit Navire.

Musée de LachineMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-634-3471; www.ville.montreal.qc.ca; 1 Chemin du Musée; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun, closed Dec-Mar; g110, mAngrignon)F

It’s a great bike ride to this museum, which is practically right on the Canal de Lachine. It is also one of the oldest houses (1669) in the Montréal region, with shooting holes inserted for defense. Back then Lachine was the last frontier for trappers heading west and the final stop for fur shipments. You can see and smell the old fur-storage building from the original trading days.

Adjacent to the museum is a huge waterfront sculpture garden that you can visit anytime from dawn to dusk.

Fur Trade at Lachine National Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pc.gc.ca; 1255 Blvd St-Joseph; adult/child $4/2; h10am-5pm late-May–early Sep; g195, mAngrignon)

This 1803 stone depot in Lachine is now an engaging little museum telling the story of the fur trade in Canada. The Hudson Bay Company made Lachine the hub of its fur-trading operations because the rapids made further navigation impossible. Visitors can view the furs and old trappers’ gear, and costumed interpreters show how the bales and canoes were schlepped by native trappers.

The site is located about 1km west of the Musée de Lachine.

Maison St-GabrielMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-935-8136; www.maisonsaint-gabriel.qc.ca; 2146 Pl Dublin; adult/student/child $10/5/3; h1-5pm Tue-Sun early Jan–mid-Jun & early Sep–mid-Dec, 11am-6pm mid-Jun–early Sep; g57 est, mCharlevoix)

This magnificent farmhouse in Pointe St-Charles is one of the finest examples of traditional Québec architecture. The house was bought in 1668 by Marguerite Bourgeoys to house a religious order. Young women called the Filles du Roy also stayed here – they were sent from Paris to Montréal to find husbands. The 17th-century roof of the two-story building is of particular interest for its intricate beam work, one of the few of its kind in North America.

The museum has an excellent collection of artifacts going back to the 17th and 18th centuries, with unusual items including sinks made from black stone and a sophisticated water-disposal system.

Parc des RapidesPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-367-6540; cnr Blvd LaSalle & 7e Ave; g58, mDe l’Église)

This space on the St Lawrence is the spot to view the Lachine Rapids (and the jet boats that ride them). The park attracts hikers and anglers, and cyclists who pedal the riverside trail. It’s also a renowned bird sanctuary – located on a small peninsula, with what’s said to be Québec’s largest heron colony. The 30-hectare sanctuary is an important site for migratory birds, with some 225 species passing through each year.

Some information displays relate the history of the rapids and of the old hydroelectric plant on the grounds. You can rent kayaks and sign up for classes where you’ll learn to surf or kayak the Lachine Rapids – scaredy-cats need not apply. An adrenaline-rushing experience can be had with Rafting Montréal, a jet-boating and rafting outfit located 2km west of the Parc des Rapides.

Moulin FlemingMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-367-6439; www.ville.montreal.qc.ca; 9675 Blvd LaSalle, LaSalle; h1-5pm Sun mid-May–early Jun, Sat & Sun early Jun–Aug; g110, mAngrignon)F

This restored five-story windmill was built for a Scottish merchant in 1816, and a multimedia exhibit inside covers its two centuries of history. It’s a nice diversion if you’re out here visiting the other Lachine sites, and a great photo op.

HARVARD DE MONTRéAL

For all the Francophiles among you, the Université de Montréal is kind of like the French-speaking Harvard in Canada. The second-largest French-speaking university in the world, it has more than 66,000 students. Maybe because it’s on the mountain far from downtown and feels removed from the rest of the city, you’ll find an array of cultural events and happenings that remain virtually unknown to those outside the area.

Nearby Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges is a lively street for strolling, with cafes, bookstores and a green market, the Marché Côtes-des-Neiges (cnr Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges & Rue Jean-Brillant; h7am-6pm Nov-Dec & mid-Mar–early Apr, 24hr early Apr–Oct; mCôtes-des-Neiges), open 24 hours daily in summer. A splendid place to while away a few hours is the indie bookstore Librairie Olivieri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-739-3639; www.librairieolivieri.com; 5219 Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mUniversité-de-Montréal), which also has an excellent bistro serving poached salmon, magret de canard (duck breast) and changing daily specials.

From here you’re also within walking distance of the Oratoire St-Joseph, a great spot to visit at sunset. Two handy metro stations – Côte-des-Neiges and Université de Montréal – provide easy access to the area.

1Côte-des-Neiges & Notre-Dame-de-Grâce
Oratoire St-Joseph

Holocaust Memorial CentreMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-345-2605; www.mhmc.ca; 5151 Chemin de la Côte-Ste-Catherine; adult/child $8/5; h10am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 9pm Wed, to 4pm Fri & Sun; mCôte-Ste-Catherine)

The Montréal Holocaust Memorial Centre provides a record of Jewish history and culture from pre-WWII Europe and holds seminars, exhibitions and other events. The museum has many powerful exhibits, and groups of 10 or more can arrange to hear testimonies by Holocaust survivors. The museum is closed on Jewish holidays; see the website to confirm Friday hours between November and March.

Ave de MonklandSTREET

(mVilla-Maria)

Over the past decade or so Ave de Monkland in Notre-Dame-de-Grâce has been transformed, with coffee bars, restaurants and condominiums springing up like mushrooms after a warm rain. It certainly has a village character as many people walk to the shops from their homes. Access is via the Villa-Maria metro station, from where you can walk down Monkland.

Université de MontréalUNIVERSITY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-343-6111; 2900 Blvd Édouard-Montpetit; mUniversité-de-Montréal)

This is the second-largest French-language university in the world, after the Sorbonne in Paris. Located on the north side of Mont-Royal, its most recognizable building is an art-deco tower and pale-yellow brick structure. The university was founded in 1878.

MONTRéAL’S GARBAGE-POWERED CIRCUS CITY

Don't pass up the opportunity to see a show in Montréal’s circus mecca. Set in the working-class St-Michel district, TOHU (%514-376-8648; www.tohu.ca; 2345 Rue Jarry Est; guided tour $7; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; md’Iberville then bus 94) (that comes from the French expression tohu-bohu, for hustle and bustle) is an innovative complex with an arena designed only with the circus arts in mind. Aside from the big round theater, the complex includes Cirque du Soleil’s international headquarters, artists’ residences and the National Circus School. Moreover, it was built on the sight of North America’s second-largest waste dump and the whole complex is now powered completely by methane gas from the landfill garbage beneath it.

You can visit the complex on your own (via guided audio tour in French), or on a guided 45-minute tour (in French only) that takes place before shows. TOHU also hosts special exhibitions and outdoor activities (such as petanque tournaments and bike rallies), and you can catch live performances here throughout the year. You can get there by taking the blue metro line to d’Iberville station and then hopping onto bus 94 north (or walking 1km northwest up Rue d’Iberville).

Adjoining the theater is the TOHU Bistro (snacks $5-10; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat) and a small gallery showing changing exhibitions.

1Olympic Park & Around

Jardin BotaniqueGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.espacepourlavie.ca/jardin-botanique; 4101 Rue Sherbrooke Est; adult/child $20/10; h9am-6pm mid-May–early Sep, to 9pm early Sep–Oct, to 5pm Tue-Sun rest of year; mPie-IX)

Montréal’s Jardin Botanique is the third-largest botanical garden in the world, after London’s Kew Gardens and Berlin’s Botanischer Garten. Since its 1931 opening, the 75-hectare garden has grown to include tens of thousands of species in more than 20 thematic gardens, and its wealth of flowering plants is carefully managed to bloom in stages. The rose beds are a sight to behold in summertime. Climate-controlled greenhouses house cacti, banana trees and 1500 species of orchid. Bird-watchers should bring their binoculars.

A popular drawcard is the landscaped Japanese Garden with traditional pavilions, tearoom and art gallery; the bonsai ‘forest’ is the largest outside Asia. The twinning of Montréal with Shanghai gave impetus to plant a Chinese Garden. The ornamental penjing trees from Hong Kong are up to 100 years old. A Ming-dynasty garden is the feature around Lac de Rêve (Dream Lake). In the northern part of the Jardin Botanique you’ll find the Frédérick Back Tree Pavilion, a permanent exhibit on life in the 40-hectare arboretum. Displays include the yellow birch, part of Québec’s official emblem. The First Nations Garden reveals the bonds between 11 Amerindian and Inuit nations and indigenous plants such as silver birches, maples, Labrador and tea. The Orchidée Gift Shop in the main building has a wonderful selection, including handmade jewelry and crafts, stuffed animals and beautifully illustrated books.

In fall (mid-September to early November) the Chinese garden dons its most exquisite garb for the popular Magic of Lanterns, when hundreds of handmade silk lanterns sparkle at dusk. Montréalers are devoted to this event and it can feel like it’s standing-room only even though it’s held in a huge garden.

Creepy-crawlies get top billing at the bug-shaped Insectarium. Most of the 250,000 specimens are mounted but live displays include bees and tarantulas.

The admission ticket includes the gardens, greenhouses and the Insectarium.

Jardin BotaniqueCHRIS CHEADLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

BiodômeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.espacepourlavie.ca; 4777 Ave Pierre de Coubertin; adult/child $20/10; h9am-6pm late Jun–Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun rest of year; c; mViau)

At this captivating, kid-friendly exhibit you can amble through a rainforest, explore Antarctic islands, view rolling woodlands, take in aquatic life in the Gulf of St Lawrence, or wander along the raw Atlantic oceanfront – all without ever leaving the building. Be sure to dress in layers for the temperature swings. The five ecosystems house many thousands of animal and plant species; follow the self-guided circuit and you will see everything.

Penguins frolic in the pools a few feet away from groups of goggle-eyed children; the tropical chamber is a cross section of Amazonia with mischievous little monkeys teasing alligators in the murky waters below. The Gulf of St Lawrence has an underwater observatory where you can watch cod feeding alongside lobsters and sea urchins in the tidal pools. The appearance of the Laurentian Forest varies widely with the seasons, with special habitats for lynx, otters and around 350 bats.

The Biodôme is wildly popular, so try to visit during the week, avoiding the middle of the day if possible. Plan two hours to do it justice. You can bring a packed lunch for the picnic tables or dine in the cafeteria. In summer there are educational day camps for kids.

Penguin, BiodômeNINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

PlanétariumLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-868-3000; www.espacepourlavie.ca; 4801 Ave du Pierre-de-Coubertin; adult/child $20/10; h9am-5pm Sun, Tue & Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat; mViau)

Opened in 2013, these futuristic metallic buildings bring a bit of the cosmos to Montréal, courtesy of two high-tech domed theaters and interative exhibits on outer space. The round theaters have slightly different layouts and agendas: the Milky Way Theater is more traditional, with comfy seats and films that give an eye-opening glimpse of what lies beyond earth, while the Chaos theater has bean bags and Adirondack chairs and takes a more philosphical look at the universe.

You can also wander through the permanent exhibition, which has meteorites and fascinating displays that explore the search for life in the universe. Admission includes tickets to two separate shows as well as the permanent exhibition. Allow at least 90 minutes to experience it all. Check the schedule before setting out. Only a handful of shows are in English (there are always English shows at 2:30pm and 3pm, and two to four other screenings on Thursday through Sunday).

The planetarium is next door to the Biodôme, meaning you can explore the wonders on planet earth (or at least planet Canada) before delving into outer space.

Olympic StadiumSTADIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-252-4141; www.parcolympique.qc.ca; 4141 Ave Pierre-de-Couberti; tower adult/child $23/12; h1-6pm Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–early Sep, 9am-5pm rest of year; mViau)

The Stade Olympique seats 56,000 and remains an architectural marvel, though these days it hosts mostly concerts and trade shows and only rarely hosts sports events. The main attraction is the short (three-minute) ride on the bilevel cable car, which goes up the Montréal Tower (Tour de Montréal, also called the Olympic Tower) that lords over the stadium. It’s the world’s tallest inclined structure (165m at a 45-degree angle). Still, many don't find the overall experience worth the price.

The glassed-in observation deck (with bar and rest area) isn’t for the faint of heart but it does afford a bird’s-eye view of the city. In the distance you’ll see the pointy modern towers of the Olympic Village, where athletes stayed in 1976.

The Centre Aquatique is the Olympic swimming complex, with six pools, diving towers and a 20m-deep scuba pool.

The Tourist Hall is a three-story information center with a ticket office, restaurant and souvenir shop, as well as the cable-car boarding station.

Château DufresneHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-259-9201; www.chateaudufresne.qc.ca; 2929 Ave Jeanne-d’Arc; adult/child $14/7, incl Olympic Stadium $28/16; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun; mPie-IX)

In 1916 brothers Oscar and Marius Dufresne commissioned this beautiful beaux-arts mansion, along the lines of the Versailles Palace in France. The interiors are stunning – tiled marble floors, coffered ceilings in Italian Renaissance style, stained-glass windows – and are open for the public to explore. Italian artist Guido Nincheri was in charge of interior decoration and painted many murals, including one of dainty nymphs in the Petit Salon.

They moved in with their families – Oscar on one side and Marius on the other. Marius’ side of the building is furnished in a more masculine style, with a smoking room fitted to look like a Turkish lounge with hookah pipes. The furniture, art and other objects reflect the tastes of Montréal’s bourgeoisie of the period, and the building has been declared a national monument.

A new permanent exhibition opened in the Château in late 2014. Dubbed the Mémoire des objets, Parcours de collectioneurs (Collectors' hall, items to remember), the collection comprises some 47 artworks and historical items that belonged to famous figures from the past, including Louis XV, Joan of Arc, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon Bonaparte.

THE BIG OWE

Built for the 1976 Olympic Games, Montréal’s Olympic Stadium was plagued with difficulties right from the start. A strike by construction workers meant the inclined tower wasn’t finished on time – in fact it took another 11 years to complete. The stadium’s affectionate nickname, the ‘Big O’ (in reference to the huge oval stadium), was redubbed the ‘Big Owe’ by irate Montréalers.

The 65-ton stadium roof took another two years to complete but never worked properly. Made of Kevlar, the material used in bulletproof vests, the striking orange dome worked like a huge retractable umbrella that opened and closed by the tower cables. It was a sight to behold (if you were so lucky), but winds ripped the Kevlar and mechanical glitches led to its permanent closure. Even when the roof was functioning, there were problems. For instance, the roof could not be moved when winds gusted greater than 40km/h. This resulted in the occasional rain delay during baseball season – an irritating event for fans who were waiting for the roof to simply be closed.

In 1998 the umbrella was folded up for good and replaced with a set model (costing $37 million) that didn’t open – though this roof too malfunctioned, collapsing one year later, dumping snow and ice on workers setting up for the Montréal Auto Show (the roof installers were later sued by the stadium). Another unfortunate event over the years was the collapse of a 55-ton support beam in 1991, though luckily no one was injured.

Provincial officials calculated that the total price tag of the stadium (including construction, repairs etc) when it was finally paid off in late 2006 amounted to $1.6 billion (or $1000 per person, if every man, woman and child in the city of Montréal had to pay up).

The irony of the Big O is that now that it’s paid off and the roof is no longer broken, no one seems remotely interested in using the stadium. The city’s baseball team, the Montréal Expos, played its last game in the stadium in 2004 before it was packed off to Washington, DC and rechristened the Capitals. Today the stadium is often empty save for the odd trade show, big-name concert, soccer match and the occasional visitor (maybe you) who stares up at the empty seats, wondering how such a place could ever be so cursed.

1Outer Districts

Musée Ferroviaire CanadienMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %450-632-2410; www.exporail.org; 110 Rue St-Pierre/rte 209, St-Constant; adult/child $18/9; hgenerally 10am-5pm)

The Canadian Railway Museum contains more than 150 historic vehicles, ranging from locomotives, steam engines, Old Montréal streetcars and passenger cars to snow plows. It’s widely acknowledged as one of North America’s most outstanding collections. Not particularly well known by Montréalers, this museum gets raves from those who make the trek, especially families, and many claim it’s the best museum in the Montréal area.

The aerodynamic steam engine Dominion of Canada broke the world speed record in 1939 by clocking over 200km/h. A special sight is Montréal’s famous Golden Chariot, an open-air streetcar with tiers of ornate seats and gilt ironwork. Another good exhibit is the school car, a Canadian invention that served the railway towns of northern Ontario: two cars of each teaching train had a kitchen, living area and classroom with 15 desks.

There always seems to be something special going on here, whether it’s the miniature railway or streetcar rides, weather permitting.

By car, take the Pont Champlain from Montréal to Autoroute 15, then Hwy 132 at the Châteauguay cutoff to route 209. It’s a 20-minute drive.

CosmodômeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %450-978-3600; www.cosmodome.org; 2150 Autoroute des Laurentides; under 7/student/adult/family free/$12/15/40; h9am-5pm late Jun–early Sep, 10am-5pm rest of year; g61 or 70, mMontmorency)

You (or your kids) can experience the thrill of space flight in this interactive museum of space and new technologies. Virtual missions include a moon landing and Mars exploration, while exhibits focus on the solar system, satellite communications and space travel, and there are mock-ups of rockets, the space shuttle Endeavor and planets.

The center also runs space camps (mostly in French, though some weeks are bilingual) for one to five days for kids aged five to 13 in a sort of mini-NASA training. Older kids (age nine to 15) can take part in three- or six-day camp sessions where they overnight in space-station-like sleeping modules.

Morgan ArboretumGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-398-7811; www.morganarboretum.org; 150 Chemin des Pins, Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue; adult/child $6/3; h9am-4pm)

This 245-hectare forest reserve holds Montréal’s largest grouping of native Canadian trees: fragrant junipers, cedars and yews but also exotic species such as ginkgo, cork and yellowwood. There’s a wonderful trail map and the area is perfect for a long hike in the woods, strolling through magnolia blossoms or having a family picnic. Spring and fall offer the best colors.

The grounds of the arboretum serve as an educational facility for McGill’s MacDonald agricultural school. There are several species of wildlife and reptile, and it’s also a stop for 170 species of wintering or migratory birds, making it a thrill for bird-watchers.

In winter, this is a beautiful location for cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing.

Located about 15km west of Montréal on the western tip of the island, the arboretum can be reached most easily from Autoroute 40. Take exit 41 and follow signs for Chemin Ste-Marie; at the stop sign at the top of the hill, turn left onto Chemin des Pins for the registration office.

Parc Nature du Cap-St-JacquesPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-280-6871; 20099 Blvd Gouin Ouest, Pierrefonds; beach adult/child $5/4; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug, otherwise to 5pm; p; g69, mHenri-Bourassa)

Located about 35km west of the city, Cap-St-Jacques is arguably the most diverse of Montréal’s nature parks, with a huge beach, more than 40km of trails for hiking and skiing, a farm and even a summer camp. The maple and mixed deciduous forest in the interior is a great patch for a ramble, and in spring a horse-drawn carriage brings visitors to a sugar shack to watch the maple sap boil.

On the north shore there’s the Eco-Farm, a working farm with two barns and horses, pigs and chickens, as well as a large greenhouse for viewing. Picnic tables abound and a restaurant serves the farm’s produce. The beach is a comfortably wide stretch of fine white sand, and the shallow water is wonderful for splashing with kids, but bear in mind it gets as popular as Cape Cod on summer weekends. You can also rent canoes, kayaks and pedal boats.

By car, take Autoroute 40 west from Montréal to exit 49 (Rue Ste-Marie Ouest), turn north on Rue l’Anse-à-l’Orme and continue on to Blvd Gouin Ouest.

5Eating

MelkCAFE

(www.melkbarcafe.com; 5612 Ave Monkland; baked goods around $3; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun; mVilla-Maria)

This tiny neighborhood gem is a requisite pitstop when strolling Ave Monkland. You can enjoy first-rate coffees and heavenly baked goods (buttery scones, flaky donuts) while taking in the tin ceilings and passing people parade.

Gibeau Orange JulepFAST FOOD

(7700 Blvd Décarie; mains $5-11; h8am-3am; mNamur)

Shaped like a giant orange, this vintage snack bar along busy Blvd Decarie is a nostalgic soft spot for generations of Montréalers. While the roller-skating waitresses are long gone, you can still nosh on greasy French fries and hot dogs in your car outside, washing them down with the signature Orange Julep drink created by Hermas Gibeau in the 1920s.

SuTURKISH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-362-1818; www.restaurantsu.com; 5145 Rue Wellington; mains $18-26; h5-10:30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; mVerdun)

Chef Fisun Ercan takes her home-style but inventive Turkish cuisine beyond your expectations of kabobs and coffee. She prepares feather-light fried calamari, beef manti (dumplings) with garlic yogurt and spiced tomatoes, rich seafood rice (with shrimp, mussels and fish) and delicious lokum (Turkish delight). It’s worth the trip to Verdun; be sure to reserve.

La LouisianeCAJUN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-369-3073; www.lalouisiane.ca; 5850 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; mains $16-32; h5:30-10:30pm Tue-Sat; g105, mVendôme)

Montréal meets the Big Easy in this casual Cajun eatery, with amazing results. The menu bears the hearty, delicious flavors of jambalaya, shrimp Creole or chicken étouffée (stew-like rice dish), all armed with mysterious peppers and spices. The rich ‘voodoo pasta’ has spicy Cajun sausage and tomatoes in white wine and cream. Go early, as La Louisiane accepts no reservations.

While you’re here, be sure to check out paintings of street scenes by New Orleans native James Michelopoulos.

oTuck ShopQUéBECOIS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-439-7432; www.tuckshop.ca; 4662 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; mains $25-34; h6-11pm Tue-Sat; mPlace-Saint-Henri)

Set in the heart of working-class St-Henri, Tuck Shop could have been plucked from London or New York if it weren’t for its distinctly local menu, a delightful blend of market and terroir (locally sourced) offerings such as Kamouraska lamb shank, fish of the day with Jerusalem artichoke purée and a Québec cheese plate, all prepared by able chef Theo Lerikos.

The lively atmosphere, warm service and excellent dishes are pitch-perfect, so it’s no wonder this place fills up fast. Be sure to reserve.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LOCAL VOICES: DINING à LA QUéBéCOISE

Frédéric Morin, one of the chef-owners of Joe Beef, has garnered much attention for his innovative Québecois fare. He’s at the forefront of a movement to bring attention to the great produits du terroir (foods sourced from local markets and farms).

What keeps you in Montréal? It’s cool to be in such a culturally rich place – growing up, your best friends are Italian and Lebanese, there’s a Jewish neighborhood up the street and you’re the only Québecois kid on your block. You move between French and English – not just linguistically, but culturally. I like that quote by the prime minister during the independence drive: ‘We’re all ethnics here; it just depends on your date of arrival.’

What are your favorite dishes? I really love beef – a braised meat in winter, a thick steak in the summer. Sometimes I crave oysters and get the urge for greens. And I love Dover sole.

So what’s the story behind the new garden you’ve created behind your restaurant? I get some things for the restaurant in there, but most of my greens come from the Atwater market. I do the garden for me. I love working in there. It’s my happy place.

What’s your take on the restaurant scene here? I love Paris and New York, but it’s competitive. Cooks in restaurants here are friends. People rarely come to work pissed off. Maybe it’s this laid-back city – the Canal de Lachine, the parks…

3Entertainment

Montréal ImpactSPECTATOR SPORT

(%514-328-3668; www.impactmontreal.com; Saputo Stadium, 4750 Rue Sherbrooke Est; tickets $25-82; hMar-Oct; mViau)

Although Canadians aren’t known for doling out the soccer love, the Montréal Impact has played its heart out to earn a local following. Saputo Stadium is a 14,000-seat venue built in 2008 for the club and the second-largest soccer stadium in Canada. The Impact sometimes plays its opening (March) games at nearby Olympic Stadium, as winter weather poses problems at open-air Saputo.

Seagal CentrePERFORMING ARTS

(%514-739-7944; www.segalcentre.org; 5170 Chemin de la Côte-Ste-Catherine; plays $25 to $65; mCôte-Ste-Catherine)

Montréal’s Jewish theater stages dramatic performances in English and Yiddish – although as one of the city’s most prominent professional theater venues, plays presented are by no means exclusively Jewish. Recent productions have included The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz (based on Mordecai Richler's novel), Tom Stoppard's Travesties, and Dora Wasserman's Yiddish masterpiece The Dybbuk.

Yiddish plays have supertitles in English and French.

Theater aside, the Seagal Center also has occasional jazz concerts, film screenings and dance performances.

Wheel ClubDANCE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-489-3322; www.thewheelclub.wordpress.com; 3373 Blvd Cavendish; h8pm-1am; g105, mVendôme)

Going strong for more than 50 years, this venerable country-and-western bar is famous for its Hillbilly Night on Mondays, featuring bluegrass, cowboy and fiddle music. House-band Vintage Wine, which plays late '60s and '70s covers, can also get your heels hopping. Otherwise, there are dartboards, a pool table and a full bar. Call ahead for live-music schedules.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE GREAT HEART HEIST

How much is a holy man’s heart worth? Fifty-thousand dollars, according to thieves who broke into a locked room in the Oratoire St-Joseph in March 1973. They made off with Brother André’s heart sealed in a vial and demanded the sum in a ransom note that scandalized Montréal. The purloined organ was the subject of tabloid articles, musical compositions and even an art exhibition. Church officials reportedly refused the ransom demand, and nothing more was seen of the heart until December 1974 when Montréal lawyer to the underworld Frank Shoofey received a mysterious phone call asking him if he wanted to know its whereabouts. Shoofey was directed to an apartment building storage locker that contained a box, and inside was the vial housing Brother André’s heart. The thieves were never found, and today the heart is secure in the Oratoire behind a metal grille and a sturdy transparent display case. But some believe the Church actually did pay the ransom to get it back. Was Shoofey, who was shot to death in 1985 in a still-unsolved murder, a go-between? Whatever the case, Montréal’s great heart heist has continued to inspire artists long after the saint himself died.

2Sports & Activities

oStrøm Nordic SpaSPA

(%514-761-2772; www.stromspa.com; 1001 Blvd de la Forêt; h10am-10pm; g168, mSquare-Victoria)

For a get-away-from-it-all experience, it’s hard to top this beautifully set-up spa located on the Île des Soeurs, a few kilometers south of downtown. The trim Nordic-style buildings overlook a watery and tree-lined expanse, with grassy lawns and outdoor pools with tiny waterfalls from which to enjoy the pretty scenery.

The ‘thermal experience’ gives you access to the outdoor Jacuzzis, thermal and Nordic baths, Finnish sauna and eucalyptus steam bath. A range of treatments and packages is available, and there’s also a good bistro on hand. Hour-long Swedish massages cost $84 to $89. Prices for the thermal experience vary based on day and time (it's cheapest Monday through Thursday after 6pm).

SkyventureSKYDIVING

(%514-524-4000; www.skyventuremontreal.com; 2700 Ave du Cosmodôme, Laval; flight packages from $71; hflights 1-10pm Mon-Thu, 9am-10pm Fri-Sun; g61 or 70, mMontmorency)

Canada’s only skydiving simulator lets you stretch your wings inside a massive vertical wind tunnel that keeps you aloft with gusts of 110mph. You’ll get a brief training session with an instructor, a flightsuit, helmet and goggles; kids aged four years and over can try it too.

It’s no easy feat maneuvering in the wind tunnel during the one-minute flights, and you may find yourself bumping into the transparent walls in a very ungainly fashion. Helpful instructors fly with you, though, and part of the fun is watching them perform gravity-defying skydiving acrobatics. Be sure to stretch before and after.

Parc de La Rivière-des-Mille-ÎlesWATER SPORTS

(%450-622-1020; www.parc-mille-iles.qc.ca; 345 Blvd Ste-Rose; kayak/canoe per hour $11/12, per day $37/40; h9am-6pm, to 8pm Fri & Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug; mCartier then bus 73)

This is one of Montréal's loveliest spots for canoeing and kayaking. This park on the Rivière des Mille-Îles near Laval has 10 islands where you can disembark on self-guided water tours, and about 10km of the river (including calm inner channels) are open for paddling.

You can rent a wide range of watercraft, including 10-seat rabaska ($30 per hour) – canoes like those used by fur trappers.

Action 500GO-KARTING

(%514-254-4244; www.action500.com; 5592 Rue Hochelaga; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; g85, mL’Assomption)

Canada’s largest indoor go-kart center provides plenty of amusement for gearheads. Sharpen your skills in 10-minute races on a large indoor karting track. The racers blaze around the circuit at speeds of up to 46mph. Uniforms and safety helmets are provided; it’s $23 to $25 per race.

You can also let off steam in a round of paintball on four terrains strewn with obstacles, bunkers, pyramids and catacombs. The games pit security agents against thieves in a dozen splattering scenarios. Paintball packages (from $40) include mask, paint gun and 100 paintballs.

H2O AdventuresWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-1306; www.h2oadventures.com; 2727b Rue St-Patrick; pedal boat/kayak/electric boat/voyageur canoe per hour $15/20/50/50; h9am-9pm May-Sep; mCharlevoix)

Located across from the Atwater market on the banks of the Canal de Lachine, H2O rents out kayaks and pedal boats for a gentle glide along the water. There is a variety of courses on offer – white-water, rolling clinic, or introductory two-hour kayaking classes ($50).

Rafting MontréalRAFTING

(%514-767-2230; www.raftingmontreal.com; 8912 Blvd LaSalle; jet boat per adult/child/teen $55/35/45, rafting $46/28/39; h9am-6pm May-Sep; c; g110, mAngrignon)

Located near the Lachine Rapids in LaSalle, this outfit offers adrenaline-charged outings on the white waters of the Lachine Rapids. Rafting trips last a little over two hours and are also suitable for kids age six and up. Jet-boat trips offer high-speed 75-minute rides.

For something a bit different, you can try river boarding (not unlike a boogie-board ride along more than 4 miles of rapids) or tandem rafting (where you and a friend brave the white waters in a two-person kayak).

L’École de Voile de LachineSAILING

(%514-634-4326; www.voilelachine.com; 3045 Blvd St-Joseph, Lachine; boat rental per 1hr $25-40, per 3hr $50-100; h1-6pm Mon-Fri & 9am-8pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; g173, mLionel-Groulx)

Located on the edge of Lac St-Louis, the Lachine Sailing School organizes regattas on the St Lawrence River, gives free boat tours in late June and early July and rents light craft (windsurfing boards, small sailboats and catamarans). Qualified instructors give windsurfing and sailing courses in summer. A 20-hour sailing course (one night and one weekend) costs $380.

Centre d’Escalade Horizon RocROCK CLIMBING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-899-5000; www.horizonroc.com; 2350 Rue Dickson; admission from $16; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; g85, mL’Assomption)

This enormous 28,000-sq-ft climbing gym features 39ft walls and hundreds of lead and top-rope routes; it’s one of the world’s largest indoor climbing facilities. You can sign up for lessons, and all the gear (rope, harness, climbing shoes etc) is on hand for hire.

Centre AquatiqueSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-252-4622; www.parcolympique.qc.ca; 4141 Ave Pierre-de-Courbertin; per adult/child $10/7; h6:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; mViau)

The competition pools at the Olympic Stadium are great for laps – they’re among the fastest in the world thanks to a system that reduces water movement. The six indoor pools include a wading pool for tots, a water slide and a diving basin. Call or check online for the current schedule, which can change owing to events and competitions.

Day Trips from Montréal

Trois-Rivières

Midway between Montréal and Québec City, this historic town makes a pleasant stopover, with its attractive riverfront backed by a small cluster of museums and historic buildings.

The Laurentians

Montréal’s backyard mountain playground, the Laurentians offer countless recreational opportunities, including hiking, downhill and cross-country skiing, and cycling on a 230km converted railway bed.

The Eastern Townships

Québec meets New England in this pretty landscape of rolling hills, sparkling lakes, picturesque villages and farms specializing in cider, wine, cheese and maple syrup.

Trois-Rivières

Explore

The pleasant town of Trois-Rivières boasts history dating back to 1634, making it North America’s second-oldest city north of Mexico. Although much of the historic center burned down in 1908, a compact cluster of old buildings remains, creating a harmonious ensemble with the town’s picturesque tree-lined streets and scenic location along the St Lawrence River’s north shore.

The name Trois-Rivières is a bit of a misnomer. Don’t bother looking – there aren’t three rivers. The name refers to the way the St Maurice River divides as it approaches the St Lawrence.

Cultural highlights include the Festival International de la Poésie (International Poetry Festival; www.fiptr.com), a 10-day international poetry festival in October.

The Best…

ASight Musée Québécois de Culture Populaire

APlace to Eat Le Poivre Noir

APlace to Drink Gambrinus

Top Tip

If you read French, don’t miss the interesting interpretive plaques sprinkled around Trois-Rivières’ riverfront district, enlivened by vintage photos and engravings tracing four centuries of local history.

Getting There & Away

ABus Orléans Express (%514-395-4000; www.orleansexpress.com) runs six buses daily from Montréal to Trois-Rivières ($36, two hours). Buses arrive at Trois-Rivières’ Gare d’Autocars (%819-374-2944; 275 Rue St-Georges), within a 10-minute walk of the historic riverfront district.

ACar Autoroute 40

Need to Know

Area Code 819
ALocation 139km northeast of Montréal

A Tourist Office (%819-375-1122; www.tourismetroisrivieres.com; 1457 Rue Notre-Dame; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

1Sights

Musée Québécois de Culture PopulaireMUSEUM

(%819-372-0406; www.culturepop.qc.ca; 200 Rue Laviolette; adult/child $12/7, incl En Prison $19/10.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

One of the most interesting stops in the area, this museum has changing exhibits that cover the gamut from folk art to pop culture, delving into the social and cultural life of the Québécois. Recent exhibits include a quirky show on the social significance of garage sales and woodcarvings of birds commonly sighted in the area.

En PrisonMUSEUM

(In Prison; %819-372-0406; www.enprison.com; 200 Rue Laviolette; adult/child $12/7, incl museum $19/10.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Ex-cons bring the harsh realities of the lock-up vividly to life during 90-minute tours that include a stop at dank underground cells known as 'the pit.' English tours run between 11am and 3:15pm from late June to the end of August, and by reservation the rest of the year. The prison exhibit is connected to adjacent Musée Québécois de Culture Populaire, with its renowned regional folk-art collection and changing exhibitions, which often have a quirky pop-culture bent.

Ursuline MuseumMUSEUM

(www.musee-ursulines.qc.ca; 734 Rue des Ursulines; adult/child/student $5/free/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Nov, 1-5pm Wed-Sun Mar & Apr)

Founded by Ursuline nuns in 1639, this museum has a fine collection of textiles, ceramics, books and prints related to Catholicism. Frescoes adorn the adjacent chapel. Nearby, Rue des Ursulines is a pleasant place to stroll, with its picturesque homes (some now operating as B&Bs) and its unseen history, much of which is described on informational plaques throughout the neighborhood.

WORTH A DETOUR

A DELIGHTFUL SUMMER RETREAT

If you’re continuing east from Trois-Rivières toward Québec City, don’t miss La Domaine Joly de Lotbinière (%418-926-2462; www.domainejoly.com; Hwy 132, Rte de Pointe-Platon; adult/child/student $16/1/10; h10am-5pm late May–late Sep). This stately museum on a riverside point along the south bank of the St Lawrence River was built for former Québec premier Henri-Gustave Joly de Lotbinière (1849–1908). It’s one of the most impressive manors built during the seigneurial period of Québec and has been preserved in its late-19th-century state. The outbuildings and huge cultivated garden are a treat, and the cafe serves lunch and afternoon teas. There’s also a farm stand that sells vegetables from mid-June to early September.

5Eating & Drinking

Restaurant Le GrillSTEAK

(%819-376-4745; www.restolegrill.com; 350 Rue des Forges; mains $14-37; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat & Sun)

Locals flock to this trendy steakhouse for filet mignon, but the menu also features gourmet burgers, meal-sized salads, salmon, shrimp, lobster and Le Grill's own jazzed-up version of the Québecois classic poutine: cheesy fries accompanied by peppercorn-cognac sauce or a wine-based au jus with rosemary and roasted garlic. The streetside patio puts you right in the middle of all the action.

Le Poivre NoirFUSION

(%819-378-5772; www.poivrenoir.com; 1300 Rue du Fleuve; mains $22-32; h11:30am-2pm Wed-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sun)

At this upmarket place by the riverfront, chef José Pierre Durand’s inspired, often daring blend of French, Québecois and international influences creates a memorable dining experience. Appetizers such as asparagus and blood-orange salad, or warm goat's-cheese ‘snowballs’ with tomatoes and pistachios, are followed by main dishes such as Québecois deer with pine-nut-squash risotto and cranberry chutney. Reservations suggested.

The truly adventurous can finish their meal with pan-fried foie gras with dark chocolate and Jack Daniels–infused caramel sauce.

GambrinusBREWERY

(www.gambrinus.qc.ca; 3160 Blvd des Forges; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 3pm-1am Sat)

About 3km north of the riverfront, this decade-old brewery serves more than a dozen varieties of beer, including seasonal cranberry, raspberry and apple ales, an excellent IPA, and an unconventional hemp-and-honey blend called Miel d’Ange.

4Sleeping

Auberge Internationale de Trois-RivièresHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %819-378-8010; www.hihostels.ca; 497 Rue Radisson; dm/d $25/55; iW)

This wonderfully clean and friendly youth hostel is set in a two-story brick Georgian home, within easy walking distance of the bus station, the riverfront and all the city's attractions. Dorms have four to eight beds each, and there are also reasonably priced private rooms. Bicycle rentals are available.

oLe Gîte LoiselleB&B

(%819-375-2121; www.giteloiselle.com; 836 Rue des Ursulines; r $95-135; paiW)

Local artwork, magnificent woodwork and tasteful antiques greet you at this Victorian redbrick one block from the river. Basic rooms with private toilets and shared shower put you right in the heart of the historic district. Congenial hosts Lisette and Mario, both avid cyclists and former restaurateurs, serve an ample breakfast to fuel you for the day's adventures.

Le FleurvilB&B

(%819-372-5195; www.fleurvil.qc.ca; 635 Rue des Ursulines; d $99-149; Ws)

Operated by a gregarious Harley aficionado with a knack for decorating, this homey inn within a stone's throw of the St Lawrence River fronts a lush garden with a maple-shaded pool.

2Sports & Activities

Croisières AMLBOAT TOUR

(%866-856-6668; www.croisieresaml.com; adult/child $30/17; hmid-Jun–early Sep)

For a different perspective on Trois Rivières, take a 90-minute cruise along the St Lawrence River. Thrice-daily summer-only tours feature historical commentary about the town while traveling from the port to the Laviolette bridge, the Notre-Dame-du-Cap sanctuary, Ile St-Quentin and the confluence of the St Lawrence and St Maurice Rivers. Tours leave from the dock in Parc Portuaire, at the foot of Rue des Forges in the center of the old town.

The Laurentians

Explore

Named for their location along the northern side of the St Lawrence River, the Laurentians (Les Laurentides) are one of Québec’s great outdoor playgrounds. In winter, outdoor enthusiasts and nature-lovers take to the clear lakes and forest-covered peaks for downhill and cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling. When the weather warms, hikers, cyclists, kayakers and campers come to soak up the natural beauty. People also visit in fall to take in the changing leaves, with hues of ocher, gold and vermilion dramatically coloring the landscape.

While it’s possible to come up on a long day trip, some prefer to linger in the region’s alpine-style villages, overnighting in cozy chalets, spa retreats and atmospheric B&Bs. Expect higher prices and heavy crowds during high season, which includes the summer months and Christmas holidays.

The Best…

ASight Parc National du Mont-Tremblant

APlace to Eat La Tablée des Pionniers

APlace to Drink Le Baril Roulant

Top Tip

Even without your own bicycle, you can cycle Canada’s longest rails-to-trails route, the 232km P’tit Train du Nord; Autobus Le Petit Train du Nord will rent you a bike and provide transportation between the start and end points of your choice.

Getting There & Away

ABus Galland Laurentides runs buses from Montréal’s main bus station to the Laurentians three times daily. Towns serviced include St-Sauveur-des-Monts ($23, 1¾ hours), St-Agathe-des-Monts ($28, 2½ hours) and Mont-Tremblant ($36, three hours).

ACar Autoroute 15 (Autoroute des Laurentides) and provincial Hwy 117

Need to Know

Area Code 450, 819
ALocation 80km to 150km northwest of Montréal

A Tourisme Laurentides (%800-561-6673, reservations 450-224-7007; www.laurentides.com; La Porte-du-Nord, Hwy 15, Exit 51; h9am-8pm late Jun–early Sep, to 5pm rest of year)

1Sights

oParc National du Mont-TremblantPARK

(%819-688-2281, reservations 800-665-6527; www.sepaq.com; Chemin du Lac Supérieur; adult/child $7.50/3.25)

Opened more than a century ago, this wild, wooded national park covers more than 1500 sq km of gorgeous Laurentian lakes, rivers, hills and woods. You’ll find fantastic hiking and mountain-biking trails as well as camping and river routes for canoes. The half-day Méandres de la Diable route from Lac Chat to Mont de la Vache Noire is particularly popular. Reserve a canoe and a place on the shuttle bus by calling the park reservations line well in advance.

Mont-TremblantVILLAGE

The village of Mont-Tremblant (Secteur Village), some 4km southwest of the Mont-Tremblant ski resort, is spread along the shores of pretty Lac Mercier. You’ll find shops, cafes, B&Bs, restaurants and a pretty lakeside section of the P'tit Train du Nord recreation path, perfect for exploring on foot or cross-country skis. In summer, there are cruises out on the water; in winter, the lake adjoining the municipal beach is converted to an ice rink, illuminated for skating until 10pm.

Mont TremblantZHOU JIANG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Val-DavidVILLAGE

Tiny Val-David was a major hippie mecca in the '60s, a hangover still apparent today. The village has two artisanal bakeries, jazz music in its cafes on summer weekends and more than its share of arts and crafts people. The Saturday morning Val-David Farmers Market (Marché d'Été; h9am-1:30pm Sat late May–mid-Oct), directly opposite the village church, is the largest in the Laurentides. The town's tourist office is in a cute old train station alongside the P'tit Train du Nord recreation trail.

Ste-Agathe-des-MontsVILLAGE

This mountain village has a prime location on Lac des Sables. By the beginning of the 1900s, it was a well-known spa town. Later, famous guests included Queen Elizabeth (who took refuge here during WWII) and Jackie Kennedy. Bateaux Alouette (%819-326-3656; www.croisierealouette.com; adult/child $20.75/10.50; hJun-Oct) offers 50-minute cruises on the lake.

St-Sauveur-des-MontsVILLAGE

St-Sauveur-des-Monts is a small resort town with four nearby ski hills. Its main drag is often clogged on weekends when day-trippers shuffle through the cafes, restaurants and shops.

Musée d’Art Contemporain des LaurentidesMUSEUM

(%450-432-7171; www.museelaurentides.ca; 101 Pl du Curé-Labelle, St-Jérôme; admission by donation; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun)

Less than an hour from Montréal, this contemporary-art museum has small but fine exhibitions of work by regional artists.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SUGAR SHACKS

Québec is the undisputed world champion of maple-sugar production, and there’s a long-standing tradition of early-spring visits to cabanes à sucre (maple-sugar shacks); English-speaking Québeckers refer to such trips as 'sugaring off'. With a roaring fire boiling the sap down into syrup, these cozy places can be found all over the province in March and April, including the Laurentians and the Eastern Townships.

For a list of more than 100 sugar shacks open to the public, see www.bonjourquebec.com. Here are a few popular shacks within easy driving distance of Montréal to get you started:

Cabane à Sucre BouvretteQUéBECOIS

(%450-438-4659; www.bouvrette.ca; 1000 Rue Nobel, St-Jérôme; menus $16-22; h11:30am-8pm Tue-Sun Mar & Apr; c)

In business for seven decades, this enormous 'shack' 45-minutes north of Montréal serves a set menu that includes ham, bacon, sausages, oreilles de crisse (deep-fried pork jowls), fried potatoes, oven-baked 48-egg omelets, pea soup, baked beans, beet juice and homemade pickles, all slathered in maple syrup. Kids will love the petting zoo, old-fashioned locomotive and horse-drawn sleigh rides.

For dessert don’t miss the classic tire d’érable, maple taffy made by pouring hot, concentrated maple syrup over snow, then rolling the congealed syrup onto wooden sticks.

Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de CochonQUéBECOIS

(%450-258-1732; www.cabaneasucreaupieddecochon.com; 11382 Rang de la Fresnière, St-Benoît de Mirabel; adult/child menu $65/20; h5:30-8:30pm Thu & Fri, 11am-8:30pm Sat & Sun mid-Feb–early May)

This high-end version of the sugar-shack experience, 45-minutes west of Montréal, is brought to you by renowned Montréal chef Martin Picard. Tables fill up months in advance for his gourmet menu of maple-based delights; book well ahead.

Cabane du Pic-BoisQUéBECOIS

(%450-263-6060; www.cabanedupicbois.com; 1468 Chemin Gaspé, Brigham; adult/child $29/16; hFri-Sun Mar & Apr by reservation)

The all-you-can-eat spread at this traditional sugar shack includes all the classics – omelets, pork jowels, ham, maple sausage, beans and potatoes – plus cabbage salad dressed with Pic-Bois' famous maple vinegar. It also has a slew of maple desserts: crepes, tarts, and grands-pères au sirop d’érable, traditional ball-shaped pastries stewed in maple syrup.

It's in the Eastern Townships, about an hour east of Montréal.

5Eating & Drinking

Orange & PamplemousseFUSION

(%450-227-4330; www.orangepamplemousse.com; 120 Rue Principale, St-Sauveur-des-Monts; mains $14-32; h8am-2:30pm daily, plus 5-9pm Wed-Sun)

Tranquil with the soft sounds of a Japanese bamboo water fountain, this restaurant is a great place to devour complex pasta dishes and extraordinary grilled fish. The breakfasts are also divine.

Microbrasserie La DiablePUB FOOD

(www.microladiable.com; 117 Chemin Kandahar, Station Tremblant; mains $13-28; h11:30am-2am)

After a day of tearing down the mountain, the hearty sausages, burgers and pastas at this lively Station Tremblant tavern fill the belly nicely – although the real highlight here is the fine lineup of microbrews: blonde, red and Belgian trappist ales, wheat beer, double-black stout and rotating monthly specials.

oLa Tablée des PionniersQUEBéCOIS

(%855-688-2101; www.latableedespionniers.com; 1357 Rue Saint Faustin, St-Faustin-Lac-Carré; multicourse menu $30-50; h4:30-9:30pm Thu, 9am-9:30pm Fri-Sun late Feb–mid-May & Sep-Oct)

For top-notch traditional Québecois cuisine in rustic country surroundings, don't miss this seasonal roadside eatery between Mont-Tremblant and Ste-Agathe. Multicourse menus, served during maple sugaring and apple-harvest season, feature such delights as split pea, cabbage and bacon soup; smoked-trout soufflés; pulled-pork and mushroom puff-pastry pies; and maple-walnut tarts, all accompanied by cider from the family's orchard.

osEbMODERN CANADIAN

(%819-429-6991; www.seblartisanculinaire.com; 444 Rue St-Georges, St-Jovite; mains $29-49, multicourse menu $49-90; h6-11pm Thu-Mon)S

Escape the mediocre and get a little taste of what local culinary artisans can create with seasonal, sustainable local ingredients. A flexible, eager-to-please kitchen, an unforgettable menu and a never-ending wine list enhance the jovial atmosphere. sEb is best described as alpine chalet meets globetrotter (think African masks) meets Hollywood chic (Michael Douglas is a regular). Reservations essential.

La Petite CachéeMEDITERRANEAN

(%819-425-2654; www.petitecachee.com; 2681 Chemin du Village, Mont-Tremblant; mains $22-45; h5-10pm)

In a charming chalet en route to the ski slopes, this place offers tasty choices such as penne with wapiti sausage, poached salmon with rice noodles, or ratatouille pie au gratin with goat's cheese.

oLe Baril RoulantMICROBREWERY

(www.barilroulant.wordpress.com; 2434 Rue de l’Église, Val-David; h3pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri-Sun)

Laid-back and brimming with local color, this artsy microbrewery complements its own creations with a plethora of other brews from the surrounding area. Chill on the outdoor deck in summer, or get cozy on multicolored chairs and couches in the brightly painted interior. Live bands and DJs provide regular entertainment, from jazz to psychedelia to electro-pop.

2Sports & Activities

oP'tit Train du NordCYCLING, SKIING

(%450-745-0185; www.laurentides.com/parclineaire)

One of the region’s essential experiences, this 232km recreation path follows the old Laurentian train line between Mont-Laurier and Bois-des-Filion. Cyclists hit the path when the weather warms; in winter it’s open to cross-country skiers and snowshoers (and also partially to snowmobiles). B&Bs and bike shops abound along the route, and many old train stations house minimuseums, cafes and tourist offices.

Mont-Tremblant Ski ResortSKIING

(%888-738-1777, 514-764-7546; www.tremblant.ca; 1000 Chemin des Voyageurs, Mont-Tremblant Village; lift ticket adult/youth/child $82/58/48; h8:30am-4pm late Nov–mid-Apr)

This ski center has the area’s highest peak (968m) and more than 60 runs. Its state-of-the-art summer facilities include golf courses, water sports, cycling and tennis courts. Bikes and skates can be rented at the ski center for the 10km skating/cycling path that runs up to the mountain’s edge.

Mont St-SauveurSKIING

(%514-871-0101, 450-227-4671; www.montsaintsauveur.com; 350 Ave St-Denis, St-Sauveur; lift ticket adult/youth/child $54/47/38; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Mont St-Sauveur is one of the area’s main ski centers. Hills are a bit tame but there’s night skiing, a huge variety of runs and 100% snow coverage in season, thanks to snow blowers built right into the slopes.

4Sleeping

HI Mont-Tremblant HostelHOSTEL

(%866-425-6008, 819-425-6008; www.hostellingtremblant.com; 2213 Chemin du Village, Mont-Tremblant Village; dm $25-32, d $66-90; iW)

This attractive hostel right next to Lac Moore (free canoe rentals) has a big kitchen and large party room with bar, pool table and fireplace. The clean and spacious rooms often fill to capacity, especially in the ski season. Look for it along the main road, 1km east of Mont-Tremblant village and 4km west of the slopes.

oLa Maison de BavièreB&B

(%819-322-3528; www.maisondebaviere.com; 1470 Chemin de la Rivière, Val-David; r $110-160; piW)

Fall asleep to the sound of Rivière du Nord outside the window. This inn has hand-painted Bavarian stencils and wooden beams giving it a European ski-chalet feel. Everything is geared toward a day of outdoor pursuits, from its location on the P'tit Train du Nord trail to the energizing full gourmet breakfasts served each morning.

At the end of an activity-filled day, you can relax on the sprawling, pristine grounds overlooking the river. The restaurants and shops of Val-David are a short walk or bike ride away.

Au Clos RollandB&B

(%450-229-1939; www.auclosrolland.com; 1200 Rue St-Jean, Ste-Adèle; d incl breakfast $85-125; W)

Hidden in an otherwise undistinguished neighborhood, this sprawling 1904 mansion surrounded by vast grassy lawns is an absolute gem. The public spaces downstairs – a library with piano, living room with fireplace and pretty glass-walled breakfast room – are instantly inviting, while the guest rooms, including a couple tucked under the eaves, have cozy beds, wood floors and 'old-house' charm.

The B&B is only 300m from the P'tit Train du Nord recreation path, making this a great option for cyclists and cross-country skiers.

The Eastern Townships

Explore

Rolling wooded hills, clear blue lakes, quaint villages, covered bridges and round barns set the scene for a delightful ramble through the picturesque Eastern Townships (Cantons de l’Est or l’Estrie in French). Once the homeland of the Abenaki, this region just north of the Vermont and New Hampshire borders became a refuge for Loyalists fleeing the USA after the revolution of 1776; even today it remains one of Québec’s most perfectly bilingual regions.

Spring is the season for tapping, boiling and preparing maple syrup. Summer brings fishing and swimming in the numerous lakes; in fall the foliage dazzles with gorgeous colors and fresh-pressed apple cider is served in local pubs. Skiing is a major winter activity, with centers at Mont Orford and Sutton. The district also boasts several up-and-coming vineyards.

The Best…

ASight Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook

APlace to Eat Auberge Le Coeur d'Or

APlace to Drink Siboire

Top Tip

During the busy summer and fall foliage seasons, travel midweek to avoid the crowds and the two-night weekend minimum imposed by many B&Bs.

Getting There & Away

ABus Transdev Limocar (%514-842-2281; www.transdev.ca) operates a dozen daily services from Montréal’s main bus station to Magog ($37, 1¾ hours) and Sherbrooke ($41, 2½ hours), with less frequent service to Granby ($26,1¾ hours), Knowlton ($28, 1¾ hours) and Sutton ($28, 2¼ hours).

ACar Autoroutes 10 Est (East) and 55 Sud (South)

Need to Know

Area Code 450, 819
ALocation 80km to 165km east and southeast of Montréal

A Tourist Office (%866-472-6292, 450-375-8774; www.easterntownships.org; 100 Rue du Tourisme, Hwy 10, exit 68, St-Alphonse-de-Granby; h8:30am-4:30pm)

1Sights

Parc de la Gorge de CoaticookPARK

(%888-524-6743, 819-849-2331; www.gorgedecoaticook.qc.ca; 400 Rue St-Marc, Coaticook; adult/child $7.50/4.50; hyear-round; c)

Straddling a lovely forested gorge outside the town of Coaticook, this scenic park is famous for having the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge. Visitors come for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding in summer, and snow-tubing and snowshoeing in winter. You can also camp or stay in one of the park’s cabins. The surrounding area boasts some of the Eastern Townships’ prettiest scenery, not to mention some wonderful cheese makers (get the cheese-route brochure from the Coaticook tourist office).

Family-friendly attractions include a minifarm where kids can pet and feed animals and go on pony rides, as well as the recently launched Foresta Lumina (www.forestalumina.com; adult/child $16/9; h8:30-10:30pm daily Jul & Aug, Sat & Sun Jun, Sep & early Oct; c), a summertime evening event in which forest trails are illuminated with colorful lights, creating magical effects.

Parc National du Mont-OrfordNATIONAL PARK

(%819-843-9855; www.sepaq.com/pq/mor; 3321 Chemin du Parc, Orford; adult/child $7.50/3.25; hyear-round)

Just outside the town of Magog, Mont Orford (792m) dominates the lush Parc National du Mont-Orford. In winter, the park is a cross-country and downhill skiing center; summer brings hiking (on 80km of trails), plus swimming, boating and camping on Lac Stukely and Lac Fraser. Canoe, kayak and ski rentals are available.

North HatleyVILLAGE

Beautifully sited at the north end of Lac Massawippi, this picturesque village was a popular second home for wealthy US citizens who enjoyed the scenery – and the absence of Prohibition – during the 1920s. Many historic residences have been converted into inns and B&Bs. Popular summer activities include swimming, boating, admiring the lakeshore's natural beauty, and browsing the village's galleries, antique and craft shops. In summer, English-language dramas, concerts and comedy acts play at the Piggery Theatre (%819-842-2431; www.piggery.com; 215 Chemin Simard, North Hatley).

FrelighsburgVILLAGE

A few miles from the Vermont border, this village makes a pleasant stop along the Eastern Townships Route des Vins (Wine Route). A cluster of stone and wood homes straddles the banks of the brook that runs through town, and the surrounding area is filled with apple orchards. Local eateries specialize in smoked fish and maple products; if you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the famous maple tarts at the old general store-cafe in the center of town.

SuttonVILLAGE

One of southern Québec’s most attractive villages, Sutton is popular with artsy types and skiers, who come to appreciate the scenic beauty of the surrounding landscape, dominated by the northern Green Mountains. The downtown strip is filled with cafes, restaurants, inns and B&Bs, along with a helpful tourist office. Family-operated Mont Sutton (www.montsutton.com; 671 Chemin Maple; day tickets adult/youth/child $60/42/34; h9am-4pm), the ski area 5km east of town, offers 60 downhill runs for all abilities and is especially well known for its glade skiing.

Lac BromeVILLAGE

South of Autoroute 10, on Hwy 243, is the township of Lac Brome, made up of seven former English Loyalist villages. The main village of Knowlton is one of the most interesting and picturesque: its main street is lined with restored Victorian buildings, including many craft and gift shops. A favorite meal in this area is Lac Brome duck, which shows up frequently on the better menus and is celebrated with the town’s annual Canard en Fête (Brome Lake Duck Festival; www.canardenfete.ca; hlate Sep) festival.

Abbaye St-Benoît-du-LacMONASTERY

(%819-843-4080; www.st-benoit-du-lac.com; 1 Rue Principale, St-Benoît-du-Lac; hchurch 5am-8:30pm, shop 9-10:45am & 11:45am-5pm Mon-Sat)

This peaceful monastery sits on the western shore of Lac Memphrémagog, the largest and best-known lake in the Eastern Townships, where most waterfront properties are privately owned. The monks’ chants, cider and finely made cheeses are famous throughout Québec, and people from throughout the province descend on the abbey’s shop to buy them along with jams, jellies, sweets and chocolate-covered blueberries.

Visitors can attend services (and join the monks in prayer and Gregorian chanting) at 7:30am, 11am and 5pm. There’s a hostel for men here and another for women at a nearby nunnery.

Orford Arts CentreARTS CENTRE

(%819-843-3981; www.arts-orford.org; 3165 Chemin du Parc, Orford)

Each summer this renowned music academy, dating back to 1951, hosts the Orford Festival, a celebration of music and art that features more than 60 concerts by international musicians, with performances by guest artists as well as the academy’s own advanced students. Between September and May, the center also hosts occasional lunch and dinner concerts featuring jazz and classical artists.

Granby ZooZOO

(%450-372-9113; www.zoodegranby.com; 525 Rue St-Hubert, Granby; adult/child $20/13; h10am-5pm daily late May–Aug, Sat & Sun only Sep & Oct; c)

The town of Granby is known far and wide in Québec as the home of this zoo, with its 1000-plus animals including reptiles, gorillas and kangaroos. One of the most popular spots is at the bottom of the hippopotamus pool, where you can watch hippos lumber from the ground before they swim past viewing windows.

SherbrookeCITY

Sherbrooke is the commercial center of the Townships, with a pleasant central core lying between two rivers. Downtown is a good place to wander, with 11 large outdoor wall murals (pick up a map at the tourist office). Other highlights include the city’s small but well-conceived Musée des Beaux-Arts (www.mbas.qc.ca; 241 Rue Dufferin; adult/student $10/7; h10am-5pm daily late Jun–Aug, noon-5pm Tue-Sun rest of year), with works by Québecois and Canadian artists, and the 18km Réseau Riverain walking and cycling path along the Magog River, which starts at Blanchard Park, west of downtown.

CHARTING YOUR COURSE THROUGH THE TOWNSHIPS

There are a number of interesting and well signposted driving and cycling routes through the Eastern Townships.

The Chemin des Cantons (Townships Trail; www.chemindescantons.qc.ca) is a 418km circuit that takes in most of the Townships’ prettiest villages and scenery. Coming from Montréal, pick up the route in Granby, Knowlton or Sutton, then simply follow the signs as far as you like.

The Route des Vins (www.laroutedesvins.ca) threads its way past 18 wineries on a 120km ramble through the rolling country between Granby and the Vermont border. The route is well signposted from exits 48, 68 and 90 off Hwy 10. Variants of the route focus on gastronomy, outdoor activities and the arts; see the website for details.

Cyclists are invited to become 'Vélomaniacs' (cycling fiends) with the Eastern Townships tourist office's 365km network of cycling routes (www.easterntownships.org/cycling). Pick up their excellent printed map describing more than a dozen cycling itineraries.

Further east and off the beaten track, the Route des Sommets (Summit Drive; www.routedessommets.com) winds 193km along the high mountain slopes north of the New Hampshire border, passing a series of villages and scenic lookouts between La Patrie and St-Adrien. This is a great option for viewing the spectacular fall colors of the Townships.

5Eating & Drinking

Le CafetierCAFE

(%450-538-7333; 9 Rue Principale N, Sutton; mains $8-15; h7am-7pm; W)

Locals flock to this bustling, cheery cafe in the heart of Sutton for morning coffee, croissants, smoothies, omelets and homemade muesli, but it's just as popular in the afternoon for salads, vegetarian chili, panini and croque monsieurs. Wine and beer, free wi-fi, decks of playing cards and toys for the kids encourage people of all ages to linger.

Les Sucreries de l’ÉrableBAKERY, CAFE

(%450-298-5181; www.lessucreriesdelerable.com; 16 Rue Principale, Frelighsburg; mains $9-14; h8:30am-5pm Thu-Mon)

Best known for its scrumptious maple pies, this bakery in an attractive old brick-walled general store does double duty as a simple restaurant. Breakfast treats include waffles with blueberries, bananas, crème fraîche and maple sugar, while lunch revolves around salads and sandwiches. Try a bagel topped with local maple-smoked salmon, accompanied by a glass of local cider.

Save room for fresh maple ice cream or – of course – maple pie. In summer, it’s delightful to sit on the outdoor deck near the river out back.

Le RelaisFRENCH

(%450-242-2232; www.aubergeknowlton.ca/relais; 286 Chemin Knowlton, Lac Brome; lunch $12-21, dinner $14-35; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat; W)

Set in a landmark 1849 inn, this place features juicy Lac Brome duck served many ways, such as duck ravioli in mushroom sauce, duck confit in orange sauce and duck livers with blackened butter. The many other options include pork tenderloin with calvados, veal piccata and garlic scampi, along with burgers, salads, soups and pasta. There's terrace seating in summer.

oAuberge Le Coeur d'OrQUéBECOIS

(%819-842-4363; www.aubergelecoeurdor.com; 85 Rue School, North Hatley; 4-course meal $40; h6-9pm, closed Mon & Tue Nov-Apr)

For a delightful night out, head to this charming farmhouse inn in North Hatley village. The restaurant's four- to five-course dinners make abundant use of local ingredients, including cheeses from Sherbrooke, rabbit from Stanstead, duck from Orford and smoked trout from East Hereford. Save room for profiteroles, chocolate mousse cake, or the Coeur d'Or's trademark trio of crèmes brûlées.

oSiboireMICROBREWERY

(%819-565-3636; www.siboire.ca; 80 Rue du Dépôt, Sherbrooke; h7am-3am)

Sherbrooke's historic train depot houses this atmospheric microbrewery with nearly a dozen beers on tap, including Siboire's own IPA, wheat beer, oatmeal stout, Irish red ale and seasonal maple scotch ale. High ceilings, old brick walls and a flower-fringed summer terrace create an inviting atmosphere for drinking it all in and enjoying some of the tastiest fish and chips in the Townships.

WORTH A DETOUR

ICE WINE & ICE CIDER

Ice wine (vin de glace in French) was discovered in Germany by accident, when growers found that pressing wine grapes after they froze on the vine left a sweet, highly concentrated juice. Ice wine results when this juice is left on the vine to ferment, creating one of the most coveted dessert wines on the market; it’s so expensive because of the amount of grapes that need to be pressed for enough juice to be extracted.

If you’re following the Eastern Townships Route des Vins (Wine Route), you’ll come across many local varieties. Award-winning ice-wine producer Chapelle Ste-Agnès (%450-538-0303; www.vindeglace.com; 2565 Chemin Scenic, Sutton; guided visits incl tasting $20-30; hguided visits 1:30pm Wed & Sun Jun-Oct, otherwise by arrangement) is one of the very best, just north of the Vermont border near Sutton. Closer to Montréal, in Dunham, Vignoble l’Orpailleur (%450-295-2763; www.orpailleur.ca; 1086 Rue Bruce, Dunham; h10am-4:30pm) is arguably the province’s oldest wine producer. It has a terrific little display on the history of alcohol in Québec, as well as captions in the vineyards explaining the grape varieties and how they grow. Tours of the vineyards are offered, and the on-site restaurant, Le Tire-Bouchon (%450-295-3335; www.orpailleur.ca; mains $18-25; h11:30am-4pm late Jun–early Oct), serves delicious high-end bistro fare, with seating on a pleasant outdoor terrace.

Another specialty of the frozen north, ice cider (cidre de glace) is made from apples which are allowed to stay on the tree after the first frost, then pressed and cold fermented for months. Award-winning Domaine Pinnacle (%450-298-1226; www.domainepinnacle.com; 150 Chemin Richford, Frelighsburg; h10am-6pm May-Dec, to 5pm Fri-Sun Jan-Apr), the world's largest ice-cider producer, sits among century-old orchards just outside Frelighsburg, 1¼ hours southeast of Montréal. It's open to visitors on weekends in winter and daily the rest of the year.

4Sleeping

Le BocageB&B

(%819-835-5653; www.lebocage.qc.ca; 200 Chemin Moe’s River, Compton; d $100-125, ste $165-250, all incl breakfast; hTue-Sun; Ws)

From the welcome to the antiques, this Victorian gem of a B&B in the countryside between Coaticook and Sherbrooke is hard to fault. A multicourse meal (three/four/five/six courses $43/48/55/66) is served nightly and can feature dishes such as guinea fowl stuffed with mushrooms, wild boar, red-deer medallions or other wild game. Discounts apply for multinight stays and reservations are essential.

Au Chant de l'OndeB&B

(%450-776-5676, 450-298-5676; www.auchantdelonde.ca; 6 Rue de l'Église, Frelighsburg; r incl breakfast from $102; W)

In the heart of pretty Frelighsburg village, this peaceful three-room B&B enjoys a prime location along the banks of the Rivière aux Brochets. Guests have access to a lovely terrace and a spacious backyard within earshot of the river, as well as a library for relaxing, reading or playing board games.

Auberge du Centre d'Arts OrfordINN

(%819-843-3981; www.arts-orford.org/auberge; 3165 Chemin du Parc; s $78-98, d $98-118)

This no-frills lodging offers 89 rooms without TV or telephone, on 90 hectares at the edge of Parc National du Mont-Orford. It’s affiliated with the Orford Arts Centre, so rooms are unavailable during the summer music festival. However, come autumn, winter or spring, it's a lovely retreat where you can enjoy trails and mountain scenery right outside your door.

oManoir HoveyRESORT

(%800-661-2421, 819-842-2421; www.manoirhovey.com; 575 Rue Hovey; d $190-530, incl breakfast & 3-course dinner $340-680; paiWs)

This lovely resort offers handsomely set rooms in a picturesque lakeside setting. You’ll find expansive gardens, a heated pool, an ice rink (in winter), and you can arrange numerous outdoor activities – windsurfing, lake cruises and golfing. The award-winning restaurant is among the best in the Eastern Townships, with three-course meals highlighting refined Québecois fare.

4Sleeping

Montréal’s accommodation scene is blessed with a tremendous variety of rooms and styles. Though rates aren’t particularly cheap, they are reasonable by international standards – or even compared with Canadian cities such as Toronto or Vancouver. French- and Victorian-style inns and independent hotels cater to a variety of budgets.

Book Your Stay Online

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

Luxury & Boutique Hotels

Montréal has many choices when it comes to high-end lodging. You'll find top names such as Ritz-Carlton, Sofitel, Fairmont and other luxury brands. But you'll also find plenty of homegrown places such as the Hôtel Le St-James and the Hôtel Nelligan. The big full-service luxury hotels are largely downtown.

For more of the boutique experience, Old Montréal has the best selection. Many of the best are set inside 18th-century buildings and blend original details – stone walls, timber ceilings – with updated interiors (big windows and marble-filled baths). While prices tend to be high at these places, you can find some great deals. This is especially true in low season even if you book at the last minute. Keep an eye out for cut-rate weekend deals and online specials.

Small Hotels & B&Bs

Small, European-style hotels are a Montréal specialty. Located downtown and in the Quartier Latin, they occupy Victorian-era homes that are plain and functional or comfy and charming. Prices are graded by facilities (eg with sink, toilet and/or full bath), but not all places have air-con.

B&Bs are a wonderful alternative. Many of them are set in attractive, 19th-century stone houses close to the Plateau’s bar-and-restaurant strips of Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis, or near Rue Ste-Catherine Est in the Village. The many B&Bs offer heaps of character – the precious commodity that can make all the difference – and their owners are often invaluable sources of travel advice. There are many comfortable but bland chain hotels in town, which may be useful in peak season when the B&Bs and guesthouses are booked solid.

Budget Sleeps

Montréal has an abundance of good budget accommodations. Apart from the usual dorm beds, hostels may offer basic single and double rooms – though these are often booked out weeks in advance. In addition, the universities throw open their residence halls to nonstudents in summer; prices are competitive.

Planning in advance is key to finding accommodations during big events. The summertime festival season, from late June to the end of August, is the peak period, and conventions can crimp availability in late summer.

Sleeping with Locals

Websites such as www.airbnb.com have hundreds of listings in Montréal. You can stay with locals either by sharing an apartment or having a whole place to yourself. If you don't mind sharing, this is a great way to meet locals and get an insider's take on the city. And if you're after a flashy apartment for your stay in the city, renting local is one of the best ways to go.

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

L Hotel A lavish hotel that's packed with artwork by Warhol, Stella and other luminaries.

La Maison Pierre du Calvet The baroque rooms in this centuries-old gem are absolutely over the top.

Hôtel Nelligan With one of the best rooftop patios in the city, the Nelligan wins with its old-world setting and great staff.

University Bed & Breakfast Apartments These tidy rooms in the heart of the city are great value.

Best by Budget

$

Auberge St-Paul Friendly new hostel in a great Old Montréal location.

M Montreal A great place to meet other travelers, with a first-rate bar.

Le Gîte du Plateau Mont-Royal Top pick with its rooftop terrace and location near 'the mountain'.

$$

Les Bons Matins Great value for suites with Jacuzzis and fireplaces.

Hotel Parc Suites Spacious, attractively designed suites, all with kitchenettes.

Auberge de la Fontaine Appealing place, particularly the suites with in-room spas and park views.

$$$

Hôtel Le St-James Refined opulence in a 19th-century building in Old Montréal.

Ritz-Carlton The Ritz sparkles with elegant decor and world-class service.

Best B&Bs

Le Lit au Carré Charming three-room inn just a short stroll from one of Montréal's loveliest little parks.

Accueil Chez François Delicious breakfasts, friendly hosts and good-value rooms.

Alexandre Logan Rooms at this friendly place are artfully maintained.

Alacoque B&B Revolution Great value for the attractive rooms and cooked breakfast.

Best Heritage Stays

Auberge Bonaparte Delve into the past at this inn that would make its namesake proud.

Auberge du Vieux-Port Original details from the 1880s, plus waterfront views.

Unusual Stays

Héritage Victorien Period-style rooms are named after the 19th-century family members who resided here.

Hôtel de l’Institut Great prices and hard-working staff at this training ground for aspiring hoteliers.

A la Carte B&B Get off the beaten path at this lovely inn in Montréal's east.

Le Petit Hôtel Rooms come in S, M, L and XL at this boutique stay.

La Citadelle Feels like a new midrange hotel, but it's actually a student dorm outside summer.

Need to Know

Price Range

In our listings the following price codes represent the cost of a double room in high season:

$ less than $75

$$ $75 to $175

$$$ more than $175

Room Rates

AIn Montréal, the average room rate is around $150, with some seasonal fluctuations (from January to March, rates fall by about 30%).

APrices listed are for high-season travel (June to September) and do not include taxes – another 19% or so.

AHotels charge a premium during the Grand Prix (late May and early June). Check websites for details.

Discounts

We quote rack rates, but prices can vary drastically. Most business and high-end hotels offer discounts, often significant ones, for reservations made in advance – typically on online booking sites or by phone.

Booking Services

Book your hotel well in advance. Good places to browse listings:

ALonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/canada/montreal/hotels) Browse listings and book online.

ABBCanada (www.bbcanada.com) B&Bs in Montréal and beyond.

ATourisme Montréal (%877-266-5687; www.tourisme-montreal.org) Extensive listings from the city's tourism authority.

4Where to Stay

4Old Montréal

Old Montréal has the city’s most atmospheric – and highest priced – hotel rooms. Over the last decade or so, many of the area’s old buildings have been converted into impeccable boutique hotels with unique ambience and careful, confident service. The proliferation of such distinctive hotels has also inflated the area’s B&B and inn rates.

Auberge St-PaulHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %438-386-1339; 339 Rue St-Paul Est; dm $20-28, d with shared bath $60-70; paW; mChamp-de-Mars)

In an excellent Old Montréal location, this new hostel has clean-swept rooms with old stone walls, comfortable mattresses and good natural light, with some windows facing onto the picturesque Marché Bonsecours across the road. The welcome is warm and friendly, and all the usual hostel features are here: in-room lockers, kitchen and laundry access, free coffee and tea.

This is a good place to meet other travelers; the hostel arranges pub crawls, music jam sessions, weekend trips out of town and other activities.

Auberge AlternativeHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-8069; www.auberge-alternative.qc.ca; 358 Rue St-Pierre; dm incl tax $27-30, r $75-85; iW; mSquare-Victoria)

This laid-back hostel near the Old Port has a bohemian vibe with an inviting cafe/restaurant where you can mingle with other travelers or enjoy an organic breakfast ($5 extra). Guests bunk in trim, colorfully painted dorms that accommodate anywhere from four to 20 people. There’s a laundry and no curfew.

UQAM ResidencesAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-987-6669; www.residences-uqam.qc.ca; 303 Blvd René-Lévesque; r from $65; hmid-May–mid-Aug; paiW; mBerri-UQAM)

This residence hall at Université de Québec à Montréal (UQAM) offers tidy modern studio apartments with small, fully equipped kitchens in a convenient location not far from the nightlife along Rue St-Denis. It's set in a rather charmless building, and the quarters are simple, but the price is hard to beat. Rooms are available only during the summer.

There’s a laundry and a cafe on-site. A second location (at 2100 Rue St-Urbain) near Place des Arts has similar features.

oL HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-985-0019; www.lhotelmontreal.com; 262 Rue St-Jacques Ouest; d $170-280; paW; mSquare-Victoria)

Inside a grand 1870 building, L Hotel is a major draw for art lovers. Georges Marciano, founder of Guess jeans, opened the hotel in 2010, showering great artworks throughout the rooms and common areas. You might sleep in a room with an original piece by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein or Frank Stella, or one of scores of other famed artists.

The rooms themselves are uniquely designed (though most tend toward a more refined classical look than a pop-art aesthetic); but all have big windows, high ceilings and luxury finishings.

InterContinental MontréalLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-987-9900; www.montreal.intercontinental.com; 360 Rue St-Antoine Ouest; d $160-230; pai; mSquare-Victoria)

This enormous InterContinental has a unique location between a new high-rise and a restored annex of the 19th-century Nordheimer building. The 357 rooms have a modern, contemporary design done in earth tones and are fairly spacious. The turret suites are particularly attractive, with superb views to Mont-Royal. There are extensive facilities, including a sauna, 15m lap pool, bar and restaurant.

oHôtel NelliganBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-788-2040, 514-788-2040; www.hotelnelligan.com; 106 Rue St-Paul Ouest; d from $220; paiW; mPlace-d’Armes)

Housed in two restored buildings and named in honor of Québec’s famous and tragic poet, Émile Nelligan, this Old Montréal beauty has original details (such as exposed brick or stone) and luxurious fittings (down comforters, high-quality bath products, and Jacuzzis in some rooms). Verses, a plush bar and restaurant, is next door, with a magnificent roof patio, Terrasse Nelligan.

oHôtel GaultBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-904-1616, 514-904-1616; www.hotelgault.com; 449 Rue Ste-Hélène; r from $230; paiW; mSquare-Victoria)

The Gault delivers beauty and comfort in its 30 spacious rooms. Lovely 19th-century architectural details figure in some rooms, with exposed brick or stone walls, though for the most part it boasts a fashion-forward, contemporary design. Rooms have extremely comfortable beds, ergonomic chairs, high ceilings, huge windows and spotless bathrooms (some with two-person bathtubs) with heated tile floors.

iPads are available upon request.

Le Petit HôtelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-530-0360, 514-940-0360; www.petithotelmontreal.com; 168 Rue St-Paul Ouest; r $205-305; paiW; mPlace-d'Armes)

Set in a 19th-century building, Le Petit Hôtel uses 'small', 'medium', 'large' and 'extra large' to describe its four room classes – identical save for the size. Owned by the same group as the Hôtel Place-d’Armes, rooms boast a sleek, contemporary design (polished wood floors, atmospheric lighting and goose-down comforters), while showcasing the old stone walls in some rooms.

You’ll also find iPod docking stations, free bike hire and dashes of color – orange – that give a creative zing to the overall look. There’s a small spa here and an enticing little cafe, with down-tempo beats, on the ground floor.

Auberge BonsecoursINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-396-2662; www.aubergebonsecours.com; 353 Rue St-Paul Est; s/d $180-220; paW; mChamp-de-Mars)

The unusual ambience of these renovated stables lends this secluded hotel particular appeal. All six rooms have exposed brick walls, a cheerful color scheme, designer lighting and floral linen, but each room is cut differently – the front-facing room with pine floors and sloping ceiling is especially popular. All quarters are set around an inner courtyard, remaining blissfully quiet at night.

Le Place d'ArmesHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-1887, 888-450-1887; www.hotelplacedarmes.com; 55 Rue St-Jacques; r from $229, ste from $328; aW; mPlace-d'Armes)

Spread among three regal buildings on the edge of Pl d’Armes, this luxury hotel has stylish rooms, excellent service and a historic location. Rooms have first-class fittings – antique moldings, brick or stone walls, black granite and white marble in the bathrooms, and an entertainment system. Even small quarters feel spacious thanks to views of Mont-Royal or the Basilique Notre-Dame.

There’s a full-service spa, fitness center, restaurant and bar, but the crowning touch is the splendid rooftop patio, Terrasse Place d’Armes, which on a summertime night is a magnet for the beautiful crowd.

Hôtel Le St-JamesBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-841-3111; www.hotellestjames.com; 355 Rue St-Jacques; r from $360; paiW; mSquare-Victoria)

Housed in the former Merchants Bank, the Hôtel Le St-James is a world-class establishment. Lavish guest rooms have beautiful antique furnishings, with oil paintings adorning the walls. There’s a candlelit spa, a library and high-tea service. The concierge and staff are particularly kind and helpful, but for dining, you're better off looking elsewhere.

Auberge du Vieux-PortBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-876-0081; www.aubergeduvieuxport.com; 97 Rue de la Commune Est; r $200-340; paW; mChamp-de-Mars)

Set in an 1882 warehouse, this is a stylish boutique hotel with exposed brick or stone walls, wooden beams, wrought-iron beds, high-quality furnishings (including occasional antiques) and big windows overlooking the waterfront. For more space and seclusion (a kitchen, multiple rooms), you can book one of its minimalist lofts (www.loftsduvieuxport.com; apt $190-300) in a separate building round the corner.

Auberge BonaparteINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-1448; www.bonaparte.com; 447 Rue St-François-Xavier; r $195-255, ste $360; aW; mPlace-d'Armes)

Wrought-iron beds and Louis Philippe furnishings lend a suitably Napoleonic touch to this historic 30-room inn, a former judge’s residence built in 1886. The best rooms are warmly decorated and boast high ceilings, dormer windows and bronze lamps. Low-end rooms can seem a little dark and dowdy; and some guests are disappointed with the lack of in-room coffeemakers.

Those at the rear overlook a pretty garden with views of the Basilique Notre-Dame. Breakfast is served in the fine Bonaparte Restaurant, which has been done up in Napoleonic Imperial style. There’s also a pleasant rooftop terrace.

ÉpikBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-2634; www.epikmontreal.com; 171 Rue St-Paul Ouest; d/ste from $200/340; paW; mPlace-d’Armes)

Set in a 1723 structure, the Épik is a new boutique hotel with loads of charm. Its 10 beautifully designed rooms have wood-beam ceilings, stone walls and other original details, plus modern flourishes (flat-screen TVs), sleek bathrooms with rain showers, leather armchairs or sofas and elegant bedside lamps.

Enjoy fluffy croissants and fresh-brewed coffee in the morning; in the evening stop in the restaurant for wine and tapas.

La Maison Pierre du CalvetHISTORIC INN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-1725; www.pierreducalvet.ca; 405 Rue Bonsecours; d $295; paW; mChamp-de-Mars)

This is the heritage hotel experience par excellence. This historic landmark in Old Montréal was built right into the city defense walls in 1725, and staying here is like stepping back in time: massive stone fireplaces with original carvings, gilded picture frames and four-poster beds surrounded by carefully preserved antiques.

Benjamin Franklin stayed here in 1775 while trying to garner support for the American Revolution. The salon, library, wine cellar and dining rooms all drip the moneyed elegance of the period. There’s also a Victorian greenhouse and pretty vine-covered terrace.

Hôtel St-PaulBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-380-2222; www.hotelstpaul.com; 355 Rue McGill; d $220-300, ste $280-485; paiW; mSquare-Victoria)

The lobby greets you with a fireplace flickering inside a wall of glowing alabaster – a fine introduction to this beaux-arts hotel on the edge of Old Montréal. Set along dimly lit hallways, the rooms and suites feature high-end mattresses, ambient lighting and large windows – though the design feels a little sparse in the lower-category accommodations.

The St-Paul was gearing for a bottom-to-top renovation in 2016, though it will remain open during the makeover.

LONGER-TERM RENTALS

The universities offer good deals from May to August, though you should not expect much more than dormitory amenities for the longer-term options.

For a taste of life in the ‘real’ Montréal, away from the hotel circuit, seek out the clean, trim Studios du Quartier Latin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-0916; www.studiosquartierlatin.com; 2024 Rue St-Hubert; apt per month $480-980; aW; mBerri-UQAM) in the Quartier Latin and the Plateau. All studios generally have fully equipped kitchenette, TV, private telephone and bed linen, plus wireless access.

The modern high-rise Trylon Apartments ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-843-3971, 514-843-3971; www.trylon.ca; 3463 Rue Ste-Famille; apt per day/week/month from $99/546/1560; paWs; mPlace-des-Arts) are a plush alternative to top-end hotels at a fraction of the price. The small studios (36 sq meters) and one-bedroom apartments (51 sq meters) have contemporary furnishings with kitchenettes, and guests can enjoy the indoor swimming pool, sauna, exercise room and rooftop terrace. Some rooms have balconies.

4Downtown

The city center is the bastion of the business hotel and large, upper-end chains, but there are some interesting independent hotels, B&Bs and budget establishments scattered throughout the area.

Le Gîte du Plateau Mont-RoyalHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-284-1276, 877-350-4483; www.hostelmontreal.com; 185 Rue Sherbrooke Est; d $78, dm/d/tr with shared bath from $25/70/65; iW; mSherbrooke)

This popular youth hostel at the southern end of the Plateau (and the western edge of downtown) has all the expected hostel features (kitchen access, laundry room and lounge), though rooms and facilities are basic. Staff are friendly, and the rooftop terrace and communal lounge are fine places to meet other travelers.

HI Montréal International Youth HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-843-3317, 514-843-3317; www.hostellingmontreal.com; 1030 Rue Mackay; dm $20-45, r $100; aiW; mLucien-L'Allier)

This large, well-equipped HI hostel has bright, well-maintained dorm rooms (all with air-con) with four to 10 beds, and a handful of private en suite rooms. Rooms are small and, depending on your bunkmates, can feel cramped. Energetic staff organize daily activities and outings (pub crawls, bike tours, day trips), plus there’s a lively cafe-bar on the ground floor.

You'll save cash (around $5 per night) with a HI card. There’s no curfew and bike hire is available. Reservations are strongly recommended in summer.

Hôtel Y MontréalHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-9942; www.hotelymontreal.com; 1355 Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest; r $75-130, r with shared bath $55-90; aiW; mLucien-L'Allier)

The YWCA’s hotel welcomes both sexes to rooms that are basic but clean – and good value for the city. If you don't mind sharing a bathroom, opt for the Auberge floor, with clean, quite small private rooms with a sink. Despite the location on busy Blvd René-Lévesque, it's fairly quiet, with rooms on the 6th and 7th floors.

Guests can use the kitchen or laundry facilities, and there's a thrift shop and unaffiliated cafe on the ground floor. Unfortunately, the Y no longer lives up to its name – there’s no fitness center or pool. The money goes to Y programs.

L'Abri du VoyageurHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-2922, 866-302-2922; www.abri-voyageur.ca; 9 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest; r with shared bath from $68, studio with bath $135; paW; mSt-Laurent)

It’s on a seedy stretch of Rue Ste-Catherine but if you’re not turned off by the nearby sex clubs (no pun intended), you can enjoy clean, cozy rooms with exposed brick walls, wood floors and comfortable furnishings. Some rooms are spacious with tiny kitchenettes, while others could use more natural light. Overall, it's good value for money.

oUniversity Bed & Breakfast ApartmentsB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-842-6396, 514-842-6396; www.universitybedandbreakfast.ca; 623 Rue Prince Arthur Ouest; r $115-185; pW; mMcGill)

Tucked away on a leafy street near McGill University, this handsome three-story townhouse has abundant charm. Accommodations vary in size and style, but have blond-wood floors, wrought-iron beds, classy furnishings and exposed brick. The suites are roomier with modern touches such as flat-screen TVs, kitchenettes and iPod docking stations. The location is excellent.

Les Bons MatinsB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-588-5280, 514-931-9167; www.bonsmatins.com; 1401 Ave Argyle; r $129, ste $169-189; paW; mLucien-L'Allier)

Charming and seductive with exposed brick walls and vibrantly colored bed sheets and wall hangings, this classy establishment is one of a series of adjoining turn-of-the-century walk-ups. The deluxe room (704) has a private balcony. The deluxe suites are quite stunning, with Jacuzzis and wood-burning fireplaces. Breakfasts are excellent, with omelets, bacon, French toast and Italian-style espresso.

There's one budget room (from $99), which is tiny but attractive; it has a bathroom outside the room.

Hotel Parc SuitesHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-949-8630, 514-985-5656; www.parcsuites.com; 3463 Ave du Parc; r/ste from $159/169; paW; mPlace-des-Arts)

Although the building doesn't look promising, this eight-room all-suites guesthouse is a great place to decamp while exploring Montréal. The accommodations range from small studios to only marginally more expensive one-bedroom suites, with a comfy living/dining area and adjoining kitchenette, plus a separate bedroom – all tastefully furnished in a bright, contemporary style.

Staff and owner are friendly and helpful and deserve kudos for all the freebies thrown in – wi-fi, parking, and long-distance calls to the US and Canada. Mind the steep stairway up to the lobby.

Alacoque B&B RevolutionB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-0938; www.bbrevolution.com; 2091 Rue St-Urbain; s/d without bath $95/120; paW; mPlace-des-Arts)

This little place offers good rates for its simply furnished rooms. Exposed brick walls and homey touches create a warm ambience, but some beds and furnishings need a refresh. Guests have access to the whole house (kitchen, terrace, garden, dining room and laundry). The included breakfasts are good (croissants, baked goods, homemade jams and eggs cooked to order). There's free parking.

Hotel 10BOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-843-6000; www.opushotel.com; 10 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; d/ste from $169/269; paW#; mSt-Laurent)

Set in a minimalist art-nouveau building, this designer hotel has contemporary rooms with grays, silvers and creams – giving them an ethereal quality. The bathrooms are sleek and modern (with separate soaking tubs in deluxe rooms), and upper floors have fine views. High marks for the soft, fluffy towels and bathrobes. Avoid the noisy rooms on the lower floors.

Château VersaillesHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-933-8111, 514-933-3611; www.chateauversaillesmontreal.com; 1659 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; r from $175; pW; mGuy-Concordia)

Spread among three interconnected townhouses, the rooms have a bright color scheme and attractive details (framed art prints and crown moldings), though some rooms are showing their age, the bathrooms need an update and thin walls are a minus. Avoid the street-facing rooms overlooking noisy Rue Sherbrooke.

Manoir AmbroseHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-288-6922; www.manoirambrose.com; 3422 Rue Stanley; d $97-150; aW; mPeel)

This hotel consists of two merged Victorian homes in a quiet residential area. Its 22 rooms are comfortably furnished, and the best have nice modern features – iPod docks and large flat-screen TVs – as well as plenty of natural light. On the downside, the hotel feels a bit unpolished and could use an update.

The best rooms are upstairs, so you'll have to hoof it up two or three flights (no lift). Staff are friendly and the location is decent.

Au Coeur UrbainB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-439-4003; www.giteaucoeururbain.ca; 3766 Chemin de la Côte des Neiges; s $115-135, d $130-150; paW; mGuy-Concordia, then bus 165)S

At the foot of Mont-Royal, this striking B&B, with its vine-covered courtyard looks like it's been transported straight from Provence. Inside, you'll find a modern style amid small, brightly painted rooms and sun-drenched common areas (dining room, living room and a small gym), where guests are welcome.

The downside: the charm ends at the property line; it's on a busy street across from a hospital. Luckily, street noise is minimal owing to good insulation. Also, it's a long trudge uphill from the metro (but an easy bus ride). Tasty breakfasts showcase products from Québec, while the innkeepers do their best to use sustainable, ecofriendly products such as fair-trade cotton sheets and towels, and mattresses made with natural latex.

La CitadelleHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-398-5200; www.mcgill.ca/accommodations/summer; 410 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; r/ste $119/149; hmid-May–mid-Aug; paW; mPlace-des-Arts)

In summer McGill opens its student residence halls to travelers. Lodging is in one of five buildings, each varying in price and features. The pick of the bunch is La Citadelle, a renovated 26-story high-rise with small, handsomely designed rooms with flat-screen TVs, modern bathrooms, plush bedding and superb views (not the dorm rooms we remember). Excellent location.

Other McGill summer options include the nearby hotel-style Carrefour Sherbrooke (rooms $109 to $139), the 1960s New Residence Hall (rooms $89) at the foot of Mont-Royal, the budget-oriented Royal Victoria College (single/double/triple $45/65/85) and the inviting Solin Hall with studios and two-, three- and four-bedroom apartments, near the Atwater market and the Lachine Canal. Check online for details.

Armor Manoir SherbrookeHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-0915; www.armormanoir.com; 157 Rue Sherbrooke Est; d incl breakfast $109-149; W; mSherbrooke)

This engaging conversion of two fine Victorian houses is replete with atmosphere. Its 30 rooms range from small standards to spacious deluxes. The budget rooms are small but cozy with a warm color scheme and attractive furnishings. The best rooms have oversized gilded mirrors, decorative fireplaces and Jacuzzis. Staff are friendly.

Hotel Zero 1HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-871-9696; www.zero1-mtl.com; 1 Blvd René-Lévesque Est; r from $139; aW; mSt-Laurent)

This jazzy updated hotel has modern rooms painted in dark, matte-like tones, each with a small kitchenette (minifridge, microwave and sink) and a tiny table and chairs. Rooms in the lower category (Pop) are quite small. There’s a lounge-like vibe throughout, and it’s steps away from the eateries of Chinatown, or a short stroll (uphill) to Old Montréal.

Avoid the lower floors due to street noise.

Ritz-CarltonLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-842-4212; www.ritzmontreal.com; 1228 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; r from $480; paiWs#; mPeel)

This grande dame of Montréal has been impressing guests ever since Liz Taylor and Richard Burton got married here. For its 2012 centenary, it reopened after a four-year, $200 million renovation, with only half as many rooms as before and a new set of luxury residences. Rooms are ultra-opulent, with classic touches and impeccable service.

You can splash out in the Royal Suite, the largest in the city, if you don’t mind dropping $10,000 a night.

SofitelLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-285-9000; www.sofitel.com; 1155 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; d from $251; paiW; mPeel)

A solid link in the French luxury chain (and the only Sofitel in Canada), this hotel has stylish, modern rooms and a European feel. Staff hit the right note of sophistication without too much snobbery and the rooms are modern and bright with oversized windows and a subdued color scheme (save for the rich red duvets) with blond-wood details.

Loew’s Hotel VogueLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-285-5555; www.loewshotels.com/en/montreal-hotel; 1425 Rue de la Montagne; d from $269; paW; mPeel)

This upmarket hotel blends French-empire style with modern luxury. You’ll find flat-screen TVs attached to the oversized marble Jacuzzis, an iPod docking station and nicely furnished rooms (though somewhat lacking in individuality). Staff are friendly and efficient, and there’s a charming Parisian-style bistro and a small classy bar on-site.

Castel DurocherAPARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-1697; www.casteldurocher.com; 3488 Rue Durocher; 1-/2-bedroom $189/239; pai; mMcGill)

This family-run establishment occupies a tall, turreted stone house on a peaceful, tree-lined street near McGill University. Those seeking self-sufficiency will find one- or two-bedroom apartments with kitchen units, homey furnishings and artwork covering the walls (the multitalented Belgian owner is an artist, novelist and chocolate-maker extraordinaire). There are discounts for long-term stays.

Hotel BonaventureLUXURY HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-267-2575, 514-878-2332; www.hotelbonaventure.com; 900 Rue de La Gauchetière Ouest; d from $200; paiWs; mBonaventure)

Once part of the Hilton chain, today the Bonaventure is locally owned and has all the deluxe amenities you'd expect in a luxury hotel. All rooms have on-command movies, mahogany furniture, marbled bathrooms and large working areas – and most have panoramic views of downtown. The highlight is the 1-hectare rooftop garden with heated pool, open year-round.

It's connected to the underground city, so you can move around downtown without braving the cold if you visit in winter.

4Quartier Latin & the Village

You’ll find a good mix of options in the nightlife-charged areas of the Quartier Latin and the Village. Delightful, superb-quality B&Bs dominate the choices in this part of town. This is also a good place to base yourself, with excellent metro connections and walking access to both downtown and Old Montréal – plus the Plateau is just up the hill.

M MontrealHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-9803; www.m-montreal.com; 1245 Rue St-André; dm $18-36, d $80-125; aW; mBerri-UQAM)

One of Québec's best hostels, M Montreal makes an excellent base while exploring the city. The rooms are nicely outfitted (though the metal bedframes are a bit institutional), each with a TV and en suite, and some of the rooms have exposed brick walls. The stylish downstairs bar and lounge is the best feature.

There's usually something on: live music, movie nights, karaoke or beer pong. You can also join in on regularly scheduled pub crawls and walking tours.

Hostel Montréal CentralHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-843-5739; www.hostelmontrealcentral.com; 1586 Rue St-Hubert; dm/d from $25/85; aiW; mBerri-UQAM)

This popular hostel is just steps away from the local bus depot and metro station, and a short stroll from the buzz of Rue St-Denis. Four-, six- and eight-bunk dorms are basic but serviceable, with metal bed frames and tile floors, although in-bed reading lights and in-room fridges are thoughtful features.

Private doubles are clean and simple, but fair value for the price. The usual hostel features are on offer: guest kitchen, laundry and wi-fi throughout. There's also a small terrace and a lobby bar, where you can chat with fellow travelers over a beer.

Alexandrie MontrealHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-525-9420; www.alexandrie-montreal.com; 1750 Rue Amherst; dm $22-30, d with shared bath $70-90; W; mBerri-UQAM)

Set in a converted multistory brick building, this friendly, welcoming hostel has a good location near the Village and the Quartier Latin. Rooms are clean and nicely maintained with four- to eight-bed bunks and sunny private rooms with shared baths. The open kitchen and lounge area is a good place to mingle with other travelers.

Le Gîte du Parc LaFontaineHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-522-3910, 877-350-4483; www.hostelmontreal.com; 1250 Rue Sherbrooke Est; dm $25, s/tw/d with shared bath from $57/65/70; hJun-Aug; iW; mSherbrooke)

This great summertime option in a converted Victorian house feels more like a guesthouse than a hostel. The rooms are clean, if simply furnished (wood floors and painted wrought-iron beds), and guests can make themselves at home using the kitchen, lounge and laundry. The top-floor terrace, with views over the rooftops, is the best feature.

Héritage VictorienB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-7932; www.montrealbedandbreakfast.ca; 305 Rue Ontario Est; r $130-170, ste $150-190; aW; mBerri-UQAM)

True to name, this nine-room guesthouse celebrates its Victorian heritage with gorgeous rooms decorated with antiques and boasting period details. You'll find intricately carved wooden headboards, gilt-framed mirrors, clawfoot soaking tubs and portraits from yesteryear, plus modern baths and flat-screen TVs. There's also a garden in back and great buffet breakfasts. Save about $40 per room by staying on weeknights.

Ask the owner about Louise Amelia Monk, who lived with her siblings and parents here in the late 19th century and left behind a diary (on display in the inn).

La ConciergerieGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-289-9297; www.laconciergerie.ca; 1019 Rue St-Hubert; r $130-200; aiW; mBerri-UQAM)

Spread across two 1880s greystone buildings, the friendly La Conciergerie offers 17 attractively designed rooms. Each has a queen-sized bed and cheery color schemes, and the best have original details such as crown molding and decorative fireplaces. Only half the rooms have private baths and these tend to be more modern, less-characterful than the others.

There's a lush patio, a Jacuzzi and a small gym.

Alexandre LoganB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-598-0555, 866-895-0555; www.alexandrelogan.com; 1631 Rue Alexandre-de-Sève; s/d from $110/130, s/d with shared bath from $85/95; aiW; mBeaudry)

The friendly host Alain has an eye for details such as original plaster moldings, ornate woodwork and art-deco glass patterns at this award-winning B&B. This splendidly renovated home dates from 1870 and has hardwood floors, high-quality mattresses (two rooms have king-size beds) and big windows, making the rooms bright and cheerful.

Common spaces are also beautifully designed, from the breakfast room to the outdoor terrace complete with flowers and potted plants.

AtmosphereB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-510-7976; www.atmospherebb.com; 1933 Rue Panet; d with/without bath from $115/140; W; mBeaudry)

Set in a beautifully restored 1875 home, Atmosphere lives up to its name. Rooms feature exposed brick, polished wood floors, artful lighting and handsome design flourishes. Rooms and common areas are kept meticulously clean, and Patrick, the friendly host, receives rave reviews for the three-course breakfasts he prepares ($20 extra per person).

The stairs (one steep external, one internal) can be a challenge for those with mobility problems.

Auberge Le Jardin d’AntoineB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-843-4506; www.aubergelejardindantoine.com; 2024 Rue St-Denis; d/ste from $126/165; aiW; mBerri-UQAM)

You'll find a wide range of rooms at this welcoming four-story hotel, handily located in the thick of the Quartier Latin action. Some have carpeting, others have nicely polished wood floors. And while some rooms have classic old-world touches such as exposed brick and wrought-iron bedsteads, others tend toward a modern, cheerful design scheme.

The cheapest rooms are a bit cramped and located on the ground floor. Although it's on busy St-Denis, street noise is rarely an issue owing to thick double-paned windows.

La Loggia Art & BreakfastB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-524-2493, 866-520-2493; www.laloggia.ca; 1637 Rue Amherst; s/d $145/170, s/d with shared bath $105/130, studio s/d/tr $165/190/210; paW; mBeaudry)

This beautifully maintained B&B has a handful of charming rooms, each with artwork on the walls and attractive furnishings. The best rooms are light and airy with Persian carpets, antique armoires and private baths. Lower-level rooms are a little dark, but still clean. Good firm mattresses and soundproof windows ensure a decent night’s rest.

For a bit extra, the 'studio' is the pick of the five rooms, with tall ceilings, skylights and colorful artwork. The hosts offer a warm and friendly welcome. Buffet-style breakfasts are simple but adequate.

Le Relais LyonnaisGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-448-2999; www.lerelaislyonnais.com; 1595 Rue St-Denis; r/ste $165/275; iW; mBerri-UQAM)

Set in a beautifully restored 19th-century building, it has seven elegantly furnished rooms. Dark maple floors, exposed brick walls, touches of artwork and wooden blinds give the rooms a classy, but masculine look, while white goose-down duvets provide a soft complement. The rooms are a bit small, but high ceilings, oversized windows and rain showers add to the appeal.

Light sleepers beware: front-facing rooms get lots of street noise from lively Rue St-Denis. Suites face the rear and are quieter.

Montréal Espace ConfortHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-0505; www.montrealespaceconfort.com; 2050 Rue St-Denis; r from $100; aiW; mBerri-UQAM)

Back in the '90s this stretch was the stomping ground for the transient and confused, and this address was a notorious flophouse. Things have changed dramatically since then, with this place a shiny example of gentrification in action. Rooms boast trim Ikea-style furnishings, with a desk and a kitchenette, but are quite small.

Street-facing and lower-floor rooms can be noisy (especially on weekends).

Au Gît’annB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-523-4494; www.augitann.com; 1806 Rue St-Christophe; r with shared/private bath from $105/150; paiW; mBeaudry)

This small red-brick B&B has just a few rooms, all painted in deep, saturated colors (violet, canary yellow, burnt umber), with abstract artwork and comfortable furnishings. The best room (Picasso) has a private bath and tiny balcony. Anne, the doting host, is extremely friendly and happy to share insight about the city. There's a small kitchen for self-catering.

The guesthouse is on a quiet street, a short stroll from the action on Rue St-Denis and just downhill from the Plateau.

Hôtel St-DenisHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-4526, 800-291-5927; www.hotel-st-denis.com; 1254 Rue St-Denis; d $119-179; paW; mBerri-UQAM)

In a good location, this hotel receives positive reviews for its clean, well-maintained rooms with wood floors, trim modern furnishings and comfortable beds. Sizes vary from cramped to rather spacious – avoid the budget rooms if you need space.

For a touch of luxury, opt for the renovated king suites, which have large-screen TVs, iPod docks, a Jacuzzi tub and bath products from Lord & Mayfair.

Hôtel de ParisHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-567-7217, 514-522-6861; www.hotel-montreal.com; 901 Rue Sherbrooke Est; budget $76-144, d $100-210; paW; mSherbrooke)

Inside a turreted Victorian mansion, the Hôtel de Paris doesn't quite live up to its namesake. The most picturesque rooms have balconies overlooking Rue Sherbrooke, though noise should deter light sleepers. Some rooms have been nicely renovated, but the baths are cramped. Budget rooms are small but nicely designed, though some travelers find them a bit expensive.

In the annex across the street are a mix of ‘executive rooms’, including several with wood floors, tall ceilings and elegant details (crown molding, decorative fireplaces). It has self-serve continental breakfast.

Turquoise B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-707-1576, 514-523-9943; www.turquoisebb.com; 1576 Rue Alexandre-de-Sève; s/d with shared bath from $70/90; pW; mBeaudry)

The decor in this plush two-story greystone looks like something out of Better Homes & Gardens. Each of the five bedrooms boasts bright colors (yellow, chartreuse or, yes, turquoise) and has a queen-size bed, original moldings and shiny wood floors. Breakfast is served in the large backyard. Baths are shared – there are three for the five rooms.

A la Carte B&BB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-593-4005; alacartebnb.com; 5477 10th Ave; s/d/apt from $115/130/185; paW; mLaurier, then bus 47)

For something completely different, book one of two rooms or a fully equipped two-bedroom apartment at this charming guesthouse in the leafy neighborhood of Rosemont-La Petite Patrie. Rooms are comfortably furnished, and guests can use the dining or living room, and warm up by the wood-burning fireplace on chilly nights.

It's in the eastern part of the city, not far from the Jardin Botanique (2km away). Hosts Petra and Daniel (and their poodle Monsieur Petit) extend a warm welcome. The pair whip up delicious breakfasts and have loads of insight on exploring the neighborhood.

GAY STAYS

Any guesthouse in the Village will be gay-friendly – welcoming gay as well as straight travelers. A few perennial favorites include the following:

ALa Conciergerie Lovely rooms, a terrace and a Jacuzzi.

AAlexandre Logan Splendid 19th-century ambience.

AAtmosphere Receives rave reviews from readers.

ATurquoise B&B Like stepping into a glossy magazine.

AAlacoque B&B Revolution Gorgeous antiques in an 1830s setting.

4Plateau Mont-Royal

Staying in the most fashionable district of Montréal means being close to some of the best eateries and nightlife in town. Like the Village, the Plateau is packed with B&Bs; hotels are few and far between.

Le Rayon VertB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-524-6774; www.lerayonvert.ca; 4373 Rue St-Hubert; s/d without bath from $67/90; paW; mMont-Royal)

This centennial greystone has three comfortable, individual rooms not far from the alternative bustle of Ave du Mont-Royal. Rooms have wood floors and classic wood furnishings (there’s even a small chandelier and cornice molding in the Victorian room). The breakfast room recalls a French country inn, but the clincher is the idyllic rear terrace – in summer it’s as green as the tropics.

Cash only.

Le Lit au CarréB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-524-2506; www.lelitaucarre.com; 3689 Rue Drolet; s/d $135/150, s/d without bath $103/118; aiW; mSherbrooke)

On a tree-lined street near leafy Carré St-Louis, this three-room inn rolls out the welcome mat with comfy rooms set in an elegant greystone building. Rooms have hardwood floors, artwork on the walls, a bright color scheme and small balconies (which two rooms share). The cooked breakfasts are excellent.

Unlike many B&Bs, children are welcome, making it a good option for families.

Accueil Chez FrançoisB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-239-4638; www.chezfrancois.ca; 4031 Papineau; s/d from $120/145, s/d with shared bath $100/125; paW; mSherbrooke, then bus 24)

Overlooking Parc La Fontaine, François indeed gives a warm accueil (welcome) to his pleasant and excellent-value five-room guesthouse in the Plateau east. Many guests are repeat visitors, drawn by the spotless and attractive rooms, the delicious breakfasts and the great location (free parking is a bonus).

Auberge De La FontaineINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-597-0597, 514-597-0166; www.aubergedelafontaine.com; 1301 Rue Rachel Est; r $122-179, ste $159-225; paW; mMont-Royal)

A gem of an inn on the edge of Parc La Fontaine, this guesthouse has cheery rooms with comfy beds and touches of artwork. Standard rooms are small, while the best rooms have park views. The spacious suites also have in-room Jacuzzis. The snack refrigerator with free goodies is a nice touch. There’s a wheelchair-accessible room available.

Gingerbread ManorB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-597-2804; www.gingerbreadmanor.com; 3445 Ave Laval; r without/with bath from $110/140; pW; mSherbrooke)

The hosts give a warm welcome at this charming B&B near leafy Carré St-Louis. The house itself is a stately three-story townhouse built in 1885 with bay windows, ornamental details and an attached carriage house. The elegant rooms – five in all – are uniquely furnished (only one has a private bath, the others share).

The best rooms have king-size beds and a bay window, but all have decent light. Hot cooked breakfasts (which may include banana walnut pancakes, French toast and fruit salad or croissants) are a bonus.

Hôtel de l’InstitutHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-282-5120; www.ithq.qc.ca; 3535 Rue St-Denis; s/d $160/180; paW; mSherbrooke)

Set in a sleek glass cube, this modern hotel is run as a training center for the Québec tourism and hotel board. The 42 rooms are well appointed, with oversized flat-screen TVs, iPod docks, a desk and a small couch. They are quite bright, with small balconies – some with decent views. Baths are cramped, but clean and functional.

Kutuma Hotel & SuitesB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-0111; www.kutuma.com; 3708 Rue St-Denis; d/ste from $128/140; paW; mSherbrooke)

In an excellent location on lively Rue St-Denis, the Kutuma has the feel of a boutique hotel. Cozy, well-maintained rooms feature safari-theme decor, including animal-print fabrics, potted palms and colorful artwork. Baths are modern and perhaps overly sleek, but the two-person tub in some is a nice feature.

Negatives: some rooms have tiny windows, noise can be an issue on lower floors, and there’s no elevator – though staff can help you lug your stuff up the stairs. It's worth dining in the Ethiopian restaurant, Le Nil Bleu, on the first floor.

Anne Ma Soeur AnneHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-281-3187; www.annemasoeuranne.com; 4119 Rue St-Denis; r $87-220; paW; mMont-Royal)

These smart, fully equipped studios fill a valuable niche in the Plateau. They’re suitable for short- or long-term stays; each unit has a ‘microkitchen’ with a microwave and stove, work space and Ikea-style furnishings built into the walls. The cheapest rooms are a little cramped with thin mattresses; others have private terraces, with some overlooking the shady backyard.

Croissants are delivered to your door for breakfast. Noise can be a problem: ask for a room on the garden side, rather than the street side.

ShézellesB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-8694; www.shezelles.com; 4272 Rue Berri; s/d with shared bath from $80/95, studio s/d $135/150; W#; mMont-Royal)

Lyn and Lucie give a warm welcome to their cozy four-room guesthouse, which has a warm design of cedar-paneled walls, oak floors and attractive furnishings. The only en suite room has a king-size bed, a kitchenette and a spacious bathroom with a Jacuzzi. The other rooms are smaller but welcoming doubles, each uniquely designed.

True to name, the 'skylight room' has a bed directly beneath the skylight, so you might see some stars from your pillow on clear nights.

Au Piano BlancB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-845-0315; www.aupianoblanc.com; 4440 Rue Berri; s/d from $100/130, without bath from $80/85; pW; mMont-Royal)

The ‘colors of the sun,’ as owner Céline – a former singer, puts it – radiate from this simple five-room B&B a stone’s throw from Mont-Royal metro station. Brightly painted rooms, colorful artwork and whimsical bedside lamps add to the good cheer. Some rooms are tiny while others have views of the back terrace.

Some beds are uncomfortable and there's no air-conditioning – only an issue on those torrid August nights.

Bienvenue B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-227-5897, 514-844-5897; www.bienvenuebb.com; 3950 Ave Laval; s/d $110/130, s/d without bath from $85/95; W; mSherbrooke)

On a peaceful backstreet in the Plateau, Bienvenue is a 12-room Victorian B&B with a range of simple rooms with homey furnishings. The carpeting is a little worn, and some rooms lack air-con and are quite small. Still, all rooms get decent light and some have high ceilings. The hosts are quite friendly and the location is excellent.

There are only three rooms with private baths, though many at least have small sinks.

Le GîteB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-4567; www.legite.ca; 3619 Rue de Bullion; s/d with shared bath from $87/97; aW; mSherbrooke)

In a row house just off restaurant-lined Rue Prince Arthur, Le Gîte is a charming B&B. The four rooms have polished wood floors, an attractive minimalist design and striking works of art covering the walls (created by the owner’s son). Other nice touches are the small shaded terrace, kitchen use and free laundry.

On the downside, the one shared bath for guests causes a bit of a traffic jam in the mornings, making Le Gîte less than ideal for longer stays.

THE B&B CONNECTION

For an overview of the many charming B&Bs across Montréal, visit B&B Canada (www.bbcanada.com). It currently has more than 40 Montréal B&Bs listed on its network, with photos, room descriptions and reviews.

If you show up in Montréal without a reservation and don’t feel like making the rounds, you can always book a place through the city’s main tourist office, Centre Infotouriste ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-5400; www.bonjourquebec.com; 1255 Rue Peel; h9am-6pm; W; mPeel). Keep in mind that it can only book you a room in a guesthouse with which it has an affiliation.

Québec City

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Sleeping

Québec City

Québec City Top Five

1Strolling, shopping and admiring the murals, museums and historic buildings in the 17th-century Le Quartier Petit-Champlain.

2Soaking up spectacular views of Château Frontenac from the panoramic riverside boardwalk in summer or the hair-raising toboggan run in winter.

3Visualizing the legendary rivalry between French and English on a tour of La Citadelle.

4Walking, cycling, cross-country skiing, skating or celebrating Winter Carnival in the city's beautiful and historic Battlefields Park.

5Embracing Québec City's festive summer spirit and long daylight hours at street performances along Terrasse Dufferin and open-air concerts in the city's parks.

Explore

The crown jewel of French Canada, Québec City is one of North America’s oldest and most magnificent settlements. Its picturesque Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a living museum of narrow cobblestone streets, 17th- and 18th-century houses and soaring church spires, with the splendid Château Frontenac towering above it all. There’s more than a glimmer of Old Europe in its classic bistros, sidewalk cafes and manicured squares.

You can get a taste of the city in a single day, but linger at least a weekend if you can. The city’s compact size makes it ideal for walking, and it shines brightest when you slow down.

The main focus of your visit should be the Old Town, split between the Old Upper Town (Haute Ville), perched above the St Lawrence River on the Cap Diamant cliffs, and the Old Lower Town (Basse Ville), where Samuel de Champlain established the first French foothold in 1608. The Old Town is packed with museums, mansard-roofed houses and cobblestone streets just begging to be explored.

Outside the walls, through the historic town gates of Porte St-Louis and Porte St-Jean, four additional neighborhoods are easily accessible: St-Jean Baptiste, Colline Parlementaire, Montcalm and St-Roch, each boasting wonderful restaurants, shopping and nightlife. Also noteworthy here are the vast Plains of Abraham, where the British defeated the French in 1759; nowadays enshrined as a national park, this area offers superb recreational opportunities.

Québec City goes to great lengths to entertain visitors. All summer long, musicians, acrobats and actors in period costume take to the streets, while fantastic festivals fill the air with fireworks and song. In the coldest months of January and February, Québec’s Winter Carnival is arguably the biggest and most colorful winter festival around. Fall and spring bring beautiful foliage, dramatically reduced prices and thinner crowds.

Québec CityHENRY GEORGI/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Best…

* Place to Sleep La Marquise de Bassano

* Place to Eat Panache

* Place to Drink Le Moine Échanson

Top Tip

Make lunch your main meal. Most restaurants, including some of Québec City’s finest, offer midday table d’hôtes (fixed-price menus) for about half the price of a comparable dinner.

Getting There & Away

* Train Via Rail (www.viarail.ca) runs four trains daily from Montréal’s Gare Centrale to Québec’s Gare du Palais (three to 3½ hours, one way/return $87/173).

* Bus Orléans Express (www.orleansexpress.com) offers frequent bus service from Montréal (three to 3½ hours, one way/return $59/94).

* Car Driving from Montréal to Québec City takes about three hours, via Hwy 40 (north of the St Lawrence River) or Hwy 20 (south of the river).

* Air Regular Air Canada flights (45 minutes) run from Montréal to Québec City’s Jean Lesage Airport. There are also some direct flights from the United States and Europe.

Getting Around

Bus RTC (Réseau de Transport de la Capitale; %418-627-2511; www.rtcquebec.ca) offers efficient service all around town. To get around the Old Town, your best bet is the nifty Écolobus, which runs on electric power and charges $2 per ride. Single rides on other RTC buses cost $3.25; alternatively, purchase a day pass for $7.50, or a two-day pass for $13.50. The most convenient hub for catching multiple buses is on Place d’Youville, just outside the Old Town walls. To get here from the Gare du Palais train station or long-distance bus station, take bus 21 or 800.

Need to Know

ALocation 260km northeast of Montréal

A Centre Infotouriste

TOP SIGHT

La Citadelle

La CitadelleGARY BLAKELEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Towering above the St Lawrence River, this massive, star-shaped fort is a living museum that offers something for all ages. The exhibits on military life from colonial times to today will appeal to anyone interested in Québécois history, while children will be enthralled in summertime by the daily 10am changing of the guard and the beating of the retreat (6pm Saturday).

French forces started building a defensive structure here in the late 1750s, but the Citadelle we know today was built in the early to mid-1800s by the British, who feared two things: an American invasion of the colony and a possible revolt by the French-speaking population (that’s why the cannons point not only at the river, but at Québec City itself).

By the time the Citadelle was completed, things were calming down. In 1871, the Treaty of Washington between the United States and the newly minted Dominion of Canada ended the threat of American invasion.

The Citadelle now houses about 200 members of the Royal 22e Régiment. The Vandoos, a nickname taken from the French for 22 (vingt-deux), is the only entirely French-speaking battalion in the Canadian Forces. The second official residence of the governor general (the Queen of England’s Canadian representative) has also been located here since 1872.

Hour-long guided tours of the Citadelle are excellent and will give you the lowdown on the spectacular architecture. From late June through October, lantern-lit evening tours are also offered.

Don’t Miss

ASummer-only changing of the guard

ABeating of the retreat

APanoramas from the northeastern ramparts

Practicalities

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

A%418-694-2815

Awww.lacitadelle.qc.ca

ACôte de la Citadelle

Aadult/child $16/6

Ah9am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr

TOP SIGHT

Le Château Frontenac

Le Château FrontenacNINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

This audaciously elegant structure is Québec City’s most iconic edifice. Its fabulous turrets, winding hallways and imposing wings graciously complement its dramatic location atop Cap Diamant, a cliff that swoops into the St Lawrence River. Over the years, it’s lured a never-ending line-up of luminaries, including Alfred Hitchcock, who shot the opening scene of his 1953 mystery I Confess here.

It’s probably one of the rare hotels where most people in the lobby aren’t even guests but rather tourists visiting to get close to the history and architecture (this is the world’s most photographed hotel, after all).

Designed by New Yorker Bruce Price (father of manners maven Emily Post), the château was named after the mercurial Count of Frontenac, Louis de Buade, who governed New France in the late 1600s. Completed in 1893, it was one of the Canadian Pacific Railway’s series of luxury hotels built across Canada.

During WWII, the Québec Conferences involving British prime minister Winston Churchill, US president Franklin Roosevelt and Canadian prime minister William Lyon Mackenzie King were all held here. Other illustrious guests have included King George VI, Chiang Kai-shek, Princess Grace of Monaco and Paul McCartney.

Sadly, guided tours of the building were discontinued in 2011, but nonguests can still wander through the reception area and stop for a drink or a bite at the hotel’s restaurant or bar.

Don’t Miss

AA drink in the hotel’s panoramic 1608 Bar

AArriving here by calèche (horse-drawn carriage)

AViews of the château illuminated at night

PRACTICALITIES

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

A1 Rue des Carrières

1Sights

Most of Québec City’s sights are found within the compact cluster of Old Town walls, or just outside them, making this a dream destination for pedestrians.

Québec City – Old Town

1Top Sights

1La CitadelleD7

2Le Château FrontenacE5

3Musée de la CivilisationF3

1Sights

4Artillery ParkB4

5Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-QuébecD4

6Cathedral of the Holy TrinityD4

7Église Notre-Dame-des-VictoiresF4

8Fortifications of Québec National Historic SiteB4

9Fresque des QuébecoisE4

Governor General's ResidenceD7

10Jardin des GouverneursD5

11Musée de la Place-RoyaleE4

12Musée de l'Amérique FrancophoneD4

13Musée des UrsulinesD5

14Musée du FortE4

15St-Louis Forts & Châteaux National Historic SiteE4

16Terrasse DufferinE5

17Ursuline Convent & MuseumC5

5Eating

18Aux Anciens CanadiensD5

19Bello RistoranteC6

20Buffet de l'AntiquaireE2

21Café St-MaloE2

22Casse Crêpe BretonC3

23Chez AshtonC3

24Chez BoulayC4

25Chez TemporelC3

26Chez Victor Vieux-PortB2

27Conti CaffeD5

28Le Café du MondeG2

29Le Cochon DingueE5

30Le Lapin SautéE5

31Le Mistral GagnantD2

Le Pain BéniD4

32Le PatriarcheB4

33Le Petit Cochon DingueE5

34Le Petit Coin LatinB4

35Le Quai 19E2

36Le Saint-AmourB5

37L'ÉchaudéE3

38LégendeB2

39Paillard Café-BoulangerieC4

PanacheF3

So-ChoC1

40Toast!E3

6Drinking & Nightlife

41Aviatic ClubA2

42L'Oncle AntoineF4

43Pub St-AlexandreB4

3Entertainment

44Le Pape GeorgesF4

45Les Gros BecsC3

46Théâtre Petit-ChamplainE5

7Shopping

47CandeurE2

48Galerie d'Art Inuit Brousseau et BrousseauD5

49Gérard Bourguet AntiquaireE2

50Joaillerie Jules PerrierE5

La FromagèreC1

51La Petite Cabane à Sucre du QuébecE5

52Le Rendez-Vous du CollectionneurE2

53Les 3 ToursC3

54Les Branchés LunetterieD2

55Marché du Vieux-PortC1

56SimonsD3

2Sports & Activities

57Calèches - Parc de l'EsplanadeB5

58Calèches - Place d'ArmesD5

59Calèches - Porte St-LouisB6

60Croisières AMLF4

61Cyclo ServicesB2

62Ghost Tours of QuébecE5

63Glissade de la TerrasseE5

64Gourmet Food TourD4

Les Tours Voir QuébecD4

65Lévis FerryF5

Old Québec ToursD4

4Sleeping

66Au Petit HôtelC5

67Auberge de la PaixC3

68Auberge Place d'ArmesD4

69Auberge Saint-AntoineF3

70Château Fleur-de-LysD6

71Chez HubertC5

Fairmont Le Château FrontenacE5

72HI Auberge Internationale de QuébecB5

73Hôtel 71E3

74Hôtel BelleyC2

75Hôtel des CoutellierB2

76Hôtel Le Germain-DominionE3

77Hôtel Le PrioriE4

78La Marquise de BassanoD6

79Le Clos Saint-LouisC5

80Le Haute VilleB5

81Le Saint-PierreE3

82Les Lofts 1048B4

83Maison du FortD6

84Manoir d'AuteuilB5

85Manoir sur le CapD6

1Old Upper Town

The heart of Québec City, the Old Town is where you will be spending most of your time because it’s packed with the city’s blockbuster sights and numerous museums on everything from history and the military to religious life in New France. The narrow, winding roads are lined with extraordinary old architecture, with some buildings dating from the 1600s. The grandest military structures, churches and buildings are concentrated in the Old Upper Town.
La Citadelle Le Château Frontenac

Terrasse DufferinPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Perched on a clifftop 60m above the St Lawrence River, this 425m-long boardwalk is a marvelous setting for a stroll, with spectacular, sweeping views. In summer it’s peppered with street performers; in winter it hosts a dramatic toboggan run. Near the statue of Samuel de Champlain, stairways descend to the recent excavations of Champlain’s second fort, which stood here from 1620 to 1635. Nearby, you can take the funicular ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.funiculaire-quebec.com; one-way $2.25; h7:30am-11pm, to midnight in summer) to the Old Lower Town.

Jardin des GouverneursPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Mont Carmel )

Overlooking the St Lawrence River is this leafy gem of a city park, with a monument to legendary generals James Wolfe and Louis-Joseph Montcalm. Even in peak season, it's a peaceful refuge from the holidaying masses.

Fortifications of Québec National Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-773-8888, 418-648-7016; www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/qc/fortifications/index.aspx; western entrance 2 Rue d’Auteuil, eastern entrance Frontenac Kiosk, Terrasse Dufferin; h10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug; g3, 11)

These largely restored old walls are protected as a Canadian national historic site and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Walking the complete 4.6km circuit around the walls on your own is free of charge, and you'll enjoy fine vantage points on the city’s historical buildings as you trace the perimeter of the Old Town. In summer, 90-minute guided walks (adult/child $10/5) are also available, beginning at the Frontenac kiosk (the historic site’s information center on Terrasse Dufferin) and ending at Artillery Park. Walks depart at 10:30am and 2:30pm.

Artillery ParkHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/qc/fortifications/natcul/natcul2.aspx; 2 Rue d’Auteuil; adult/child $4/2; h10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug; g3, 7, 11, 28)

Open in summer, this park along the Old Town walls was chosen as the site for 18th-century French army barracks, due to its strategic views of the adjacent plateau and the St Charles River, both of which could feed enemy soldiers into Québec City. Visit the Officers’ Quarters and the Dauphine Redoubt, where guides in period dress (ie the garrison’s cook) speak in character about barracks life. Don't miss the huge 19th-century model of Québec City in the Arsenal Foundry.

After the British conquest of New France, English soldiers moved in and remained here until 1871, when the site was converted into an ammunition factory for the Canadian army. The factory operated until 1964, and thousands of Canadians worked there during the World Wars.

St-Louis Forts & Châteaux National Historic SiteARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/qc/saintlouisforts/index.aspx; adult/child $4/2, incl guided tour $10/5; h10am-6pm mid-May–Aug, to 5pm Sep–mid-Oct)

Hidden underneath Terrasse Dufferin are the ruins of four forts and two châteaus constructed by Samuel de Champlain and other early Québec residents between 1620 and 1694. These structures, excavated between 2005 and 2007, served as residences for the French and English governors of Québec for over 200 years before falling victim to bombardment, fire and neglect. In warm weather, Parks Canada offers twice-daily English-language tours of the archaeological site and the artifacts unearthed there.

Governor General's ResidenceHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-648-4322, 866-936-4422; gg.ca; tours free; h11am-4pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm daily mid-May–Jun, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Sep–mid-Oct)F

Located within Québec's Citadelle, this is one of only two residences in the country where Canada's governor general lives and receives foreign dignitaries. Free 60-minute guided tours are available in warmer weather. It's a small bit of Canadiana right in the heart of Québec.

Musée de l'Amérique FrancophoneMUSEUM

(Museum of French-Speaking America; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-2158; www.mcq.org; 2 Côte de la Fabrique; adult/teen/child $8/2/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

On the grounds of the Séminaire de Québec (Québec Seminary), this excellent museum is purported to be Canada’s oldest. Permanent exhibits exploring seminary life during the colonial era are complemented by temporary exhibitions. The priests here were avid travelers and collectors, and there are some magnificent displays of the scientific objects they brought back with them from Europe, such as old Italian astronomical equipment. There's also a wonderful short film on New World history from a Québecer’s perspective.

Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-QuébecCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0665; www.nddq.org; 16 Rue de Buade; guided tour $5; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun, to 8:30pm daily in summer)

Québec's Roman Catholic basilica got its start as a small church in 1647. Despite frequent fires and battle damage over the ensuing years, especially during fighting between British and French armies in 1759, the church was repeatedly repaired and rebuilt, ultimately becoming the much larger cathedral you see today, which was completed in 1925. The interior is appropriately grandiose, though most of its treasures didn’t survive the 1922 fire that left behind only the walls and foundations.

Between mid-May and early September, guided tours allow you to visit the basilica's crypt; call ahead or check inside the church for schedules. Everyone from governors of New France to archbishops and cardinals have been laid to rest here.

Cathedral of the Holy TrinityCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2193; www.cathedral.ca; 31 Rue des Jardins; h9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Nov, by arrangement out of season)

Built from 1800 to 1804, this elegantly handsome Anglican cathedral was the first ever built outside the British Isles. Designed by two officers from the British army’s military engineering corps, it is modeled on London's St Martin-in-the-Fields, with pews built of oak imported from Windsor Castle’s Royal Forest. The belltower, an impressive 47m high, competes for attention with the nearby Basilique Notre-Dame. In summer, guides conduct free 10-minute cathedral tours. Out of season, e-mail visit@cathedral.ca to arrange a visit.

Upon its completion, King George III sent the cathedral a treasure trove of objects, including candlesticks, chalices and silver trays. The elaborateness of the gifts heading toward the New World sent London’s chattering classes atwitter. The silver collection is now on permanent display in a new exhibit opened in 2014. The royal box for the reigning monarch or her representative is located in the upper left balcony if you are facing the altar (look for the royal coat of arms).

Musée des UrsulinesMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0694; www.ursulines-uc.com/musees.php; 12 Rue Donnacona; adult/youth/child $8/4/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 1-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; g3, 7, 11)

Housed in a historic convent, this thoughtful, well laid-out and wheelchair-accessible museum tells the fascinating story of the Ursuline nuns’ lives and their influence in the 17th and 18th centuries. The sisters established North America's first school for girls in 1641, educating both Aboriginal and French students. Displays on convent school life are enlivened by a vast array of historic artifacts, including examples of the Ursulines' expert embroidery. The adjoining chapel dates from 1902 but retains some interiors from 1723.

Marie de l’Incarnation, the convent's founder, was one of the most intriguing figures from the order. Leaving a young son in France after she was widowed, she joined the Ursulines and moved to New France, where she lived well into old age. She taught herself Aboriginal languages, and her frequent and eloquent letters to her son back in France are held by historians to be some of the richest and most valuable material available to scholars studying life in the French colony.

Musée du FortMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2175; www.museedufort.com; 10 Rue Ste-Anne; adult/child $8/6; hEnglish shows hourly 10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Mar)

Completely renovated to celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2015, this mini-museum houses a 30-minute multimedia show that chronicles centuries of attacks on Québec City. It’s all played out on a model/diorama that lights up in the middle of a mini-theater. Even with seven newly installed projectors, it's not exactly high tech, but it does offer a quick, easy-to-grasp audiovisual survey of the battles that shaped Québec City’s history. English-language shows are held on the hour, French-language versions on the half-hour.

Québec City – Outside the Walls

1Sights

1Église St-RochC2

Galerie DomaHomC4

2Hôtel du ParlementE4

3La Maison Henry-StuartC6

4Martello Tower 1D6

5Martello Tower 2D6

6Martello Tower 4B4

7Musée des Plaines d'AbrahamF5

8Musée National des Beaux-Arts du QuébecC7

9Obsérvatoire de la CapitaleD4

5Eating

10Bati BassakB3

11Bistro BB6

12Café Crack Grill-CheeseB3

13Café du Clocher PenchéB2

14Café KrieghoffC6

15Chez VictorB4

16Épicerie EuropéenneD3

Éric BorderonC6

17Hosaka-yaA3

18La Boîte à PainB2

19La CuisineB3

20L'Affaire est KetchupA3

21Le BilligD4

22Le CroquemboucheB2

23Le HobbitD3

24Le PaingruelC4

25Le Panetier BaluchonD3

26MorenaB6

27Pâtisserie-Chocolaterie Anna PierrotC6

28PicardieB6

29Tutto GelatoD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

30Brasserie la KorriganeB2

31Chez DagobertD5

32Chez MauriceD5

33Club ForHomC4

34La BarberieD1

35La NinkasiE3

36L'AtelierE5

37Le BoudoirC2

38Le DragueE3

39Le Moine ÉchansonD4

40Le NektarB2

41Le SacrilègeC4

42Les Salons D'EdgarB3

43L'InoxE5

44Nelligan's Irish PubD3

3Entertainment

45Cinéma CartierB5

46Fou-BarD4

47Grand Théâtre de QuébecC5

48Kiosque Edwin-BélangerD7

49La RotondeB2

50Le CercleB2

Le Théâtre CapitoleE3

51Les Voûtes de NapoléonE5

52Opéra de QuébecD6

Orchestre Symphonique de QuébecC5

53Palais MontcalmE3

54ScannerC3

Théâtre du TridentC5

7Shopping

55BenjoC2

56Boutique KettöB5

57ÉricoD3

58JA Moisan ÉpicierD3

59JB LalibertéC2

60John FluevogC2

61Les Halles du Petit QuartierC6

62Mountain Equipment Co-OpC2

63Rose BoutonC4

64SillonsC6

2Sports & Activities

65Abraham's Bus TourD6

66Battlefields ParkD6

67Place d'Youville Skating RinkE3

68Running RoomB6

4Sleeping

69Au Croissant de LuneD4

70Auberge du QuartierC6

Auberge JA MoisanD3

71Château des TourellesC4

72Hôtel Le VincentC3

73Le Château du FaubourgC4

74Les Lofts St-JosephD1

75L'Hôtel du CapitoleE3

76Relais Charles-AlexandreC6

1Old Lower Town

Sandwiched between the Upper Town and the waterfront, this area has the city’s most intriguing museums, plus numerous plaques and statues and plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants along its pedestrian-friendly streets. Street performers in period costume help recapture life in distant centuries.

Teeming Rue du Petit-Champlain is said to be, along with Rue Sous-le-Cap, one of the narrowest streets in North America, and it forms the heart of Quartier Petit-Champlain, the continent’s oldest commercial district. Look for the incredible wall paintings that feature on the 17th- and 18th-century buildings.

Place-Royale, the principal square of Québec City’s Lower Town, has more than 400 years of history behind it. When Samuel de Champlain founded Québec, it was this bit of shoreline that was first settled. In 1690 cannons placed here held off the attacks of the English naval commander Phipps and his men. Today the name ‘Place-Royale’ often generally refers to the district.

Built around the old harbor in the Old Lower Town northeast of Place-Royale, the Vieux-Port (Old Port) is being redeveloped as a multipurpose waterfront area.

From the Upper Town, you can reach the Lower Town in several ways. Walk down Côte de la Canoterie from Rue des Remparts to the Vieux-Port or edge down the charming and steep Rue Côte de la Montagne. About halfway down on the right there is a shortcut, the Escalier Casse-Cou (Break-Neck Stairs), which leads down to Rue du Petit-Champlain. You can also take the funicular.

oMusée de la CivilisationMUSEUM

(Museum of Civilization; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-2158; www.mcq.org; 85 Rue Dalhousie; adult/teen/child $10/3/free, admission free Tue Nov-Mar & 10am-noon Sat Jan & Feb; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This museum wows you even before you’ve clapped your eyes on the exhibitions. It is a fascinating mix of modern design that incorporates pre-existing buildings with contemporary architecture. The permanent exhibits, such as the one on the cultures of Québec’s Aboriginals and the one titled ‘People of Québec: Then and Now,’ are unique and well worth seeing, and many include clever interactive elements. At any given moment there’s an outstanding variety of rotating shows.

This is really the only museum in town that regularly focuses on contemporary issues and culture. Recent special exhibits have focused on topics as diverse as Oceania, ancient Rome, the history of Radio Canada or the work of Québécois writer Michel Tremblay. It’s a big place with lots to see, so focus on only one or two exhibitions if you’re not planning to make a full day of it.

Musée de la Place-RoyaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-646-3167; www.mqc.org; 27 Rue Notre-Dame; adult/teen/child $7/2/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This interpretive center touts the Place-Royale neighborhood as the cradle of French history. The exhibits focus on the individual people, houses and challenges of setting up on the shores of the St Lawrence River. It goes a bit heavy on random artifacts, but it still includes some worthwhile displays that help illuminate what local life was like from the 1600s to the 20th century. Children will have lots of fun dressing up in the historical costumes in the basement.

in summer, guides in period garb offer tours of the adjacent Place-Royale.

Église Notre-Dame-des-VictoiresCHURCH

(Our Lady of Victories Church; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1650; 32 Rue Sous-le-Fort; h9:30am-8:30pm late Jun-Aug, to 4:30pm late May-late Jun)

Dating from 1688, and named for French victories over the British in 1690 and 1711, this is North America's oldest stone church. It stands on the spot where Champlain set up his ‘Habitation,’ a small stockade, 80 years prior to the church’s arrival. Inside are copies of works by Rubens and Van Dyck. Hanging from the ceiling is a replica of a wooden ship, the Brézé, thought to be a good-luck charm for ocean crossings and battles with the Iroquois.

Fresque des QuébecoisMURAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parc de la Cetière, btwn Rue Notre-Dame & Côte de la Montagne)

An obligatory photo stop on any tour of the Old Lower Town, this whimsical multi-story trompe-l'oeil mural was painted in 1998 by a group of artists from Québec and Lyon (France). Samuel de Champlain stands jauntily in the center of the scene, flanked by kids playing hockey and a variety of famous Québecois writers and artists. Step up to the wall and join them!

PRACTICAL TIP

THREE-MUSEUM PASS

Serious museum-goers can save money by purchasing Québec City’s three-museum pass, which grants entry into the Musée de l’Amérique Francophone, Musée de la Civilisation and Musée de la Place-Royale. The cost is $23 for adults, $21 for seniors, $15.50 for students, and $7 for children ages 12 to 16; children under 12 are free. Check it out online at www.mcq.org/en/maf/renseignements.html.

1St-Jean Baptiste

The heart of this area is Rue St-Jean, which extends from the Old Town west through Porte St-Jean. It’s one of Québec’s best streets for strolling, with an excellent assortment of colorful shops and restaurants, and hip little cafes and bars. Near the corner of Rue St-Augustin is also where you’ll find the epicenter of the city’s tiny, unofficial gay ‘village’. From Rue St-Jean, take any side street and walk downhill (northwest) to the narrow residential streets like Rue d’Aiguillon, Rue Richelieu or Rue St-Olivier. Note the smattering of outside staircases and row-style houses, some with very nice entrances, typical of Québec City’s residential landscape.

CLIPPETY-CLOPPING THROUGH QUéBEC'S HISTORIC STREETS

For a scenic journey about town, climb aboard one of Québec City's old-fashioned calèches (horse-drawn carriages). While rides are not cheap – $90 for 40 minutes, $170 for 90 minutes, or $250 for two hours (maximum four passengers) – drivers can give you an earful of history as they take you to historic points around the city. Find them by the Porte St-Louis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 40-minute rides $90), in Parc de l'Esplanade ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), and at Place d'Armes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) in front of Le Château Frontenac.

1Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

A stroll west of the Old Town through Porte St-Louis leads to the Montcalm neighborhood, home to several impressive sites, including the historic Battlefields Park, the Québécois parliament building and one of the province’s best fine-arts museums. About 10 blocks west of the gate, Ave Cartier is the heart of the upscale Montcalm district, lined with gourmet bistros, cafes, shops and a popular market.

oBattlefields ParkHISTORIC SITE

(Parc des Champs de Bataille)

One of Québec City’s must-sees, this verdant cliff-top park contains the Plains of Abraham, site of the infamous 1759 battle between British General James Wolfe and French General Louis-Joseph Montcalm that determined the fate of the North American continent. Packed with old cannons, monuments and commemorative plaques, it's a favorite local spot for picnicking, running, skating, skiing and snowshoeing, along with Winter Carnival festivities and open-air summer concerts. For information, visit the Plains of Abraham Information & Reception Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-649-6157, 418-648-4071; www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca; 835 Ave Wilfrid-Laurier; h9am-5pm Sep-Jun, 8:30am-5:30pm Jul & Aug).

The Plains of Abraham are named for Abraham Martin, a Frenchman who was one of the first farmers to settle in the area. It became an official park in 1908 and has been the site of many modern historical events as well: ‘O Canada’, the Canadian national anthem, written by Sir Adolphe Routhier with music by Calixa Lavallée, was sung here for the first time on June 24, 1880.

Musée des Plaines d'AbrahamMUSEUM

(Plains of Abraham Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/youth/child $12/10/4, incl Abraham's bus tour & Martello Towers $15/11/5; h9:30am-5pm, to 5:30pm Jul & Aug)

This museum presents a fine multimedia history show entitled Battles: 1759-60. Incorporating maps, scale models, interactive games, period uniforms, and clever audiovisual presentations, the exhibit immerses visitors in the pivotal 18th-century battles that shaped Québec's destiny during the Seven Years' War between France and England. The experience is enlivened by first-hand accounts from the French, British, Canadian, and Amerindian protagonists of the period.

In July and August, museum visitors can pay a small extra fee to visit the nearby Martello Towers and take the guided Abraham's Bus Tour.

Martello Tower 1HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-648-4071; adult/youth/child incl Plains of Abraham Museum & Abraham's Bus Tour $15/11/5; h9:30am-5:30pm Jul-early Sep)

Despite its small appearance, this early 19th-century defensive tower on the Plains of Abraham – one of four originally built by the British – is jam-packed with fascinating exhibits that explore the towers' engineering history and living conditions for the soldiers based here. History buffs can also seek out the nearby Martello Tower 2 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave Taché & Ave Wilfrid-Laurier; dinner & show $39; hFeb, Jul, Aug & Oct) and Martello Tower 4 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Lavigueur), usually closed to the public but viewable from the outside. (In case you’re wondering, Martello Tower 3 was torn down in 1905.)

Inside the park, Martello Tower 2 opens to the public only for special events, which vary from year to year. Recent years have seen it converted into a spooky 'haunted tower' for Halloween; inquire at the Plains of Abraham Information & Reception Centre for info about current offerings. Martello Tower 4 is in the St-Jean-Baptiste neighborhood between Rue Félix-Gabriel-Marchand and Rue Philippe-Dorion.

Musée National des Beaux-Arts du QuébecMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-2150, 866-220-2150; www.mnbaq.org; Battlefields Park; adult/youth/child $18/5/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sep-May, 10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, to 9pm Wed year-round)

Carve out at least half a day to visit this excellent art museum. Long one of the province's best, it's slated to expand significantly in 2016 with the opening of the 15,000-sq-meter Pavillion Pierre-Lassonde. Permanent exhibitions range from art in the early French colonies to Québec’s abstract artists, with individual halls devoted entirely to 20th-century artistic giants such as Jean-Paul Lemieux and Jean-Paul Riopelle. Another highlight is the Brousseau Inuit Art Collection, a 2639-piece personal collection spanning 50 years.

The museum hosts frequent exhibitions from abroad and elsewhere in Canada. Among its four halls is the Pavilion Charles-Baillairgé, Québec City’s former prison. Audioguides are available for the permanent collections and often for temporary exhibitions as well. Other events include film screenings (often documentaries on prominent international artists), drawing and painting classes open to the public, and a concert series.

If all this cultural activity is wearing you out, you can grab a snack or the daily lunch special at the on-site cafe, or visit the museum’s restaurant, which enjoys superb views of Battlefields Park from its bay windows and outdoor terrace.

Hôtel du ParlementHISTORIC BUILDING

(Parliament Building; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-7239; www.assnat.qc.ca/en/visiteurs; 1045 Rue des Parlementaires; h9am-4:15pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 10am-4:15pm Sat & Sun late Jun-Aug)F

Home to Québec's Provincial Legislature, the Parliament building is a Second Empire structure completed in 1886. Free 30-minute tours, offered in English and French year-round, get you into the National Assembly Chamber, the Legislative Council Chamber and the Speakers’ Gallery. The facade is decorated with 23 bronze statues of significant provincial historical figures, including explorer Samuel de Champlain (1570–1635), early New France governor Louis de Buade Frontenac (1622–98) and the legendary generals James Wolfe (1727–59) and Louis-Joseph Montcalm (1712–59).

On the grounds are more recent figures in Québec’s tumultuous history, including Maurice Duplessis (1890–1959), who kept a stranglehold on the province during his 20-year-long premiership. The grounds are also used for staging events during Winter Carnival. Note the flower-trimmed fountain facing the grounds, installed in 2008 to celebrate Québec City’s 400th anniversary. It’s a fine vantage point for photographing the building.

La Maison Henry-StuartHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-647-4347, 800-494-4347; www.maisonhenrystuart.qc.ca; 82 Grande Allée Ouest; adult/child $8/3; h11am-5pm Tue-Sat late Jun-late Aug)

This handsomely preserved cottage, built in 1849, once belonged to an upper-middle-class Anglophone family, and contains period furnishings from the early 1900s. Guided tours help elucidate what life was like in those days; tea and lemon cake (included in the tour price) make it all seem that much sweeter. A small but verdant garden surrounds the cottage. Tours are offered hourly; call for the latest schedule.

Obsérvatoire de la CapitaleNOTABLE BUILDING

(Capital Observatory; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-497-4322, 418-644-9841; www.observatoirecapitale.org; 1037 Rue de la Chevrotière; adult/child $10.25/free; h10am-5pm daily Feb–mid-Oct, closed Mon mid-Oct–Jan)

Head 221m up to the 31st floor for great views of the Old Town, the St Lawrence River and (if it’s clear enough) even the Laurentians. It all helps to get your bearings, while the information panels along the way will get you up to speed on some of the local history.

GUIDED WALKING TOURS

Several companies offer guided walking tours of the city; look for them on the left side as you enter the tourist office opposite Château Frontenac. Here are a few themed itineraries to get you started:

APlace-Royale from the Present to the Past (www.mcq.org/place-royale) Visitors can download this free, self-guided podcast tour of the Old Lower Town, produced by the Musée de la Civilisation. The historic walking circuit is divided into five distinct zones surrounding Place-Royale.

AGhost Tours of Québec This lantern-lit, 90-minute walking tour of the Old Town, led by a guide in period costume, recounts a series of ghost stories and tales of murders and hauntings, providing a spooky perspective on Québec’s historic streets. Tours depart from 94 Rue du Petit Champlain in the Old Lower Town. Tickets may be reserved by phone, online, or at Ghost Tours' office on Blvd Champlain.

AGourmet Food Tour ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-694-2001, 418-694-2001; www.toursvoirquebec.com; 12 Rue Ste-Anne; adult/child $43/25; htours 2:30pm daily May-Oct, Tue-Sat Nov-Apr) Winding through the St-Jean Baptiste neighborhood, this 2½-hour culinary tour offers tastings of wines, cheeses, crepes, chocolate, maple products and other Québécois specialties at a variety of shops and restaurants. From November through April, a two-person minimum is required to guarantee departure. It’s one of several city tours offered by the same company.

1St-Roch

Sprinkled with stylish nightspots, eclectic eateries, boutiques and vintage shops, St-Roch –1km west of the Old Town – is one of Québec City’s trendiest neighborhoods. Long a working-class district for factory and naval workers, it suffered through three decades of dereliction before experiencing a remarkable rebirth in the 1990s, thanks to an ambitious urban renewal plan that created a public garden, restored a shuttered theater and hired artists to paint frescoes in the neighborhood. Today, the main commercial thoroughfare, Rue St-Joseph, draws a dynamic mix of locals, including many students, immigrants, artists and young professionals.

Thanks to the Ascenseur du Faubourg ( GOOGLE MAP ), a free elevator that eliminates much of the climb, pedestrians can get from Rue St-Joseph to Rue St-Jean in 15 minutes or less.

Église St-RochCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-3577; www.saint-roch.qc.ca; 590 Rue St-Joseph Est; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr)

There are giants and then there is this, the biggest church in Québec City. Measuring over 80m long, 34m wide and 46m high including the steeples, it was built between 1914 and 1923. When the original architects died, the neo-Gothic, neo-Roman structure was finished off by Louis-Napoléon Audet, the same man who worked on the monumental Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré Basilica 35km to the east. The marble inside the church is from Saskatchewan. See if you can find faint fossil imprints in it.

In mid-August the church hosts its annual Bénédiction des Chiens (Benediction of the Dogs), an event unparalleled elsewhere in Canada. This is followed in September by the Festival International des Musiques Sacrées de Québec (Festival of Sacred Music). Both are wonderful times to see the church at its best.

1Ste-Foy-Sillery

Ste-Foy and Sillery were actually two separate neighborhoods before municipal mergers joined them together. Both are about 5km west of downtown Québec City, although each still retains its own distinct character. Ste-Foy, roughly north of Blvd Laurier, has a stranglehold on the city’s malls but is enlivened by the student population at Université Laval. Sillery, which is roughly south of Blvd Laurier, has leafy streets lined with affluent homes; places like Ave Maguire are lined with charming cafes. Aside from the aquarium, there isn’t much here in the way of sights, but if you’re in the neighborhood you should make sure to drop by the Pointe à Puiseaux down at the foot of Rue d’Église. Here you can take in a gorgeous view of the St Lawrence River.

Aquarium du QuébecAQUARIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-659-5264, 418-659-5264; www.sepaq.com/ct/paq; 1675 Ave des Hôtels; adult/child $18/9; h9am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-May)

Spread across 40 hectares, Québec’s aquarium contains some 10,000 aquatic creatures, including freshwater and saltwater fish, amphibians, reptiles, invertebrates and marine mammals. Among its several habitats are a wetlands region and an arctic sector complete with underwater window for observing polar bears. Catch daily events like walrus and polar bear feedings and a trained harbor seal show. Times vary throughout the year; see the website for details. It’s 11km west of the city center, near the Pont Pierre Laporte bridge.

There’s also a food court with a terrace overlooking the river.

Parc du Bois-de-CoulongePARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-528-0773, 800-442-0773; 1215 Grande Allée Ouest; h6am-11pm)

Not far west of the Plains of Abraham lie the colorful gardens of this park, a paean to the plant world and a welcome respite from downtown. Once the private property of a succession of Québec’s and Canada’s religious and political elite, this wonderful mix of woodland and extensive horticultural displays has been managed as a public park since 1996.

2Neighborhood Walk
Historic Stroll Through the Old Town

Start Porte St-Louis

End Fresque des Québecois

Length 3km, one to two hours

This historical walking tour encompasses a mix of well-known and lesser-known Vieux-Québec attractions. Set off early, before tour buses fill the streets.

Begin at 1Porte St-Louis, an impressive gate first erected in 1693 (though this version dates from 1878). Follow Rue St-Louis to the corner of Rue du Corps-de-Garde, where a 2cannonball sits embedded in a tree (allegedly since 1759). Nearby, 347 Rue St-Louis is where French General Montcalm died, a day after being shot by the British during the destiny-changing Plains of Abraham Battle in September 1759.

At 34 Rue St-Louis, a 1676 home houses the Québécois restaurant 4Aux Anciens Canadiens. Its steeply slanted roof was typical of 17th-century French architecture. Follow Rue des Jardins to the 5Ursuline Convent and Museum, where generations of nuns educated both French and Aboriginal girls starting in 1641.

Left down Rue Cook is 6Edifice Price, one of Canada’s first skyscrapers, built in 1929 for $1 million. Next door, admire the art-deco lobby of Québec City’s oldest hotel, the elegant 1870 7Hotel Clarendon.

A short jog along Rue des Jardins and Rue de Buade brings you face-to-face with the heavily restored Notre-Dame-de-Québec cathedral; just to the left of the cathedral is the entrance to the 8Québec Seminary, founded in 1663; American officers were imprisoned here after their unsuccessful siege of Québec in 1775-76. Detour down pretty Rue Garneau, then descend to 9Rue des Remparts for fine views over Québec City’s waterfront factory district.

Descend aCôte de la Canoterie, a longtime link between the Lower and Upper Towns. Hope Gate stood atop the côte until 1873 to keep the riffraff from entering the Upper Town. Turn right onto bRue St-Paul, the heart of Québec’s antique district, then take a peek at cRue Sous-le-Cap, a former red-light district.

Turn right and follow Rue Sault-au-Matelot to the 420-sq-meter trompe-l’oeil dFresque des Québécois, where you can pose for the requisite tourist pic alongside historical figures like Jacques Cartier and Samuel de Champlain.

5Eating

Québec City’s restaurant scene has never been better. While the capital has always excelled at classic French food, in recent years a number of new arrivals have put a trendy modern spin on the bistro experience. At the same time, some of the city’s most famous chefs have begun embracing the concept of cuisine boréale, which emphasizes a return to indigenous northern ingredients such as wild game, seafood, mushrooms, apples, berries and root vegetables. Many of the better places can get a bit pricey, but don’t write them off. Do what the locals do; a carefully chosen table d’hôte at lunchtime will give you exactly the same food for a more manageable price.

QUéBEC CITY DINING TIPS

Opening Hours & Meal Times

Most restaurants in Québec City are open for lunch and dinner in the off-season and from about 11am to whenever the last customer leaves in peak summer season or during Winter Carnival. Standard lunch hours are noon to 2:30pm, with dinner from 6pm to 10pm. Places really tend to fill up from 8pm onwards in the francophone tradition. Note that outside of Winter Carnival, many restaurants in winter may be closed Sunday and Monday, or both. Breakfast cafes open around 7am (later on weekends).

How Much?

Midrange places in Québec City will, on average, charge $15 to $30 for a main course. Top-end restaurants run upwards of $30 for a main; a culinary temple of some renown might charge $60 to $100 or more for a four-course gourmet dinner, including wine. Count on $6 to $10 for a glass of drinkable red and $25 to $35 (and up) for a bottle from the house cellar. Taxes amounting to nearly 15% apply at all restaurants. Most do not include taxes in their menu prices, nor do we include them in the price ranges listed below.

Booking Tables

If you’re in Québec City between May and October, or during Winter Carnival, definitely book ahead to dine in one of the finer restaurants. During this peak season, popular places can fill up quickly, even at odd times like Monday nights.

Tipping

A tip of 15% of the pretax bill is customary in restaurants. Most credit card machines in Québec will calculate the tip for you based on whatever percentage you specify, or allow you to tip a dollar amount of your own choosing. Some waiters may add a service charge for large parties; in these cases, no tip should be added unless the service was extraordinary. If tipping in cash, leave the tip on the table or hand it directly to staff.

5Old Upper Town

Be choosy about where you spend your money in the Old Town. Though many restaurants have gorgeous settings, and may be fine for coffee, tea or a beer, food can often be disappointing.

oPaillard Café-BoulangerieBAKERY, SANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.paillard.ca; 1097 Rue St-Jean; sandwiches $8-10; h7am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

At this bright, buzzy and high-ceilinged space, diners seated at long wooden tables tuck into tasty gourmet sandwiches, satisfying soups and fresh salads. The attached bakery, with its alluring display cases, is downright irresistible – try the tentation, a delicious sweet pastry loaded with berries, or indulge in a savory fougasse (Provençal-style bread brushed with olive oil and studded with olives and herbs). It’s a bit of a madhouse at lunchtime.

Casse Crêpe BretonCREPERIE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-0438; www.cassecrepebreton.com; 1136 Rue St-Jean; crepes $4.75-9.25; h7am-9:30pm; v)

Tiny and unassuming, this perennial favorite specializes in crepes both sweet and savory, along with sandwiches, soups and salads. Some diners like to sit at the counter and watch the chef at work. Seating is first come, first served.

Chez TemporelCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-1813; www.facebook.com/cheztemporel; 25 Rue Couillard; mains $11-17; h9am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat)

Hidden away on a side street just off the beaten path, this charming little cafe serves tasty sandwiches, homemade soups and quiches, plus prodigious salads, fresh-baked goods and excellent coffees. It attracts a curious mix of locals and travelers.

Chez AshtonFAST FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-3055; www.chez-ashton.com; 54 Côte du Palais; mains $4-10; h11am-11:30pm Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat)

For a break from fine dining, head to this Québec City fast-food institution with dozens of restaurants across town. On weekends, local revelers flock here in the wee hours of the morning to refuel with the classic Québecois comfort food, poutine (fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy). Ashton also whips up roast beef sandwiches and decent burgers.

Conti CaffeITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-4191; www.conticaffe.com; 32 Rue St-Louis; mains $20-36; h11:30am-11pm)

Set on busy Rue St-Louis, this handsome eatery features an enticing mix of Mediterranean flavors. Start off with prosciutto-wrapped shrimp or Cognac-infused lobster bisque, then move on to duck confit risotto, or grilled lamb chops with fresh rosemary. The dining room is a warmly lit retreat, with exposed brick walls trimmed with art and big windows overlooking the street.

The lunchtime table d’hôte ($13 to $19 for soup or juice, main dish, coffee and dessert) is one of the Old Town’s best deals.

Bello RistoranteITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0030; www.belloristorante.com; 73 Rue St-Louis; mains $16-42; h11:30am-11:30pm)

Luc Ste-Croix, former student of French master chef Paul Bocuse, brings his passion for Italian cuisine to this welcoming new eatery near Porte St-Louis. The vast menu ranges from wood-fired pizzas to veal scaloppine to scrumptious risottos. Save room at dessert-time for tiramisu, made the right way with real mascarpone, and finish your evening with a flaming alcohol-infused coffee.

Chez BoulayBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-380-8166; www.chezboulay.com; 1110 Rue St-Jean; lunch menus $17-26, dinner mains $20-34; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Renowned chef Jean-Luc Boulay's latest venture serves an ever-evolving menu inspired by seasonal Québecois staples such as venison, goose, wild mushrooms and Gaspé peninsula seafood. Lunch specials and charcuterie (cold cuts) platters for two (served 2pm to 5pm) offer an affordable afternoon pick-me-up, while the sleek, low-lit dining area with views of the open kitchen makes a romantic setting for dinner.

Aux Anciens CanadiensQUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1627; www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca; 34 Rue St-Louis; mains $22-92, 3-course menu from $20; hnoon-9:30pm)

Housed in the historic Jacquet House, which dates from 1676, this place is a well-worn tourist destination, specializing in robust country cooking and typical Québécois specialties served by waitstaff in historic garb. The menu du jour, offered from noon to 6pm, is by far the best deal at $20 for three courses, including a glass of wine or beer.

Traditional dishes featured on the menu include bison Bourguignon in cream and blueberry wine sauce, duckling in a maple-syrup reduction, Lac St-Jean meat pie, and wild caribou filet mignon. The restaurant gets its name from the novel Les Anciens Canadiens by Philippe-Aubert de Gaspé, who lived in the house from 1815 to 1824. The original rooms have been left intact, resulting in several small, intimate dining areas.

Le Pain BéniQUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-9485; www.painbeni.com; 24 Rue Ste-Anne; mains $23-33; h7:30am-10:30pm daily May-Oct, 7:30-10am daily, 11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri & 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat Nov-Apr)

A great gourmet outing can be had at this small, unpretentious dining room inside the Auberge Place d’Armes. Le Pain Béni serves an excellent assortment of dishes with Québec highlights. Recent favorites include roasted Québec quail with morel mushrooms, deer tartare with bacon and aged cheddar, and house-made black pudding with star anise. Delectable desserts are the coup de grâce.

Le Petit Coin LatinCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-0700; 8½ Rue Ste-Ursule; mains $12-30; h7:30am-10pm)

For omelets, croissants, and bowls of café au lait, this cafe makes a cheerful breakfast stop, especially in summer when the sunny back patio is open. The menu also includes salads, soups and tourtière (Québécois elk meat pie). For a cozy wintertime treat, couples can share a raclette (a make-your-own Swiss dish of melted cheese, potatoes, grilled meat, and pickles).

oLe Saint-AmourFRENCH, QUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0667; www.saint-amour.com; 48 Rue Ste-Ursule; mains $40-52, fixed-price menus $68-115; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri & 6-10pm daily)

One of Québec City's top-end darlings, Le Saint-Amour has earned a loyal following for its beautifully prepared grills and seafood. The soaring greenhouse-style ceiling trimmed with hanging plants creates a warm, inviting setting, and the midday table d’hôte ($25 to $33, available weekdays only) offers that rarest of Upper Town experiences – a world-class meal at an extremely reasonable price.

Perhaps more impressive than the food is the excellent wine selection, with over 10,000 bottles in the cellar.

Le PatriarcheFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-5488; www.lepatriarche.com; 17 Rue St-Stanislas; menus $87-107; h5:30-10pm Tue-Sat)

The imaginative culinary creations seem almost too lovely to eat at this top-class restaurant, where contemporary artwork hangs on 180-year-old stone walls and ingredients are sourced from an impressive roll call of local suppliers. Choose from three menus nightly, each finished off with a selection of cheeses or Patriarche's trademark dessert en tryptique, a trio of stunning desserts.

5Old Lower Town

Rue St-Paul, Rue Sault-au-Matelot and Rue du Petit-Champlain are lined with restaurants. In warm weather, they fling their windows open and set up outdoor seating on the streets, creating a terrific atmosphere. In winter the streets outside may be deserted, but the revelry packs indoors, and windows positively glow with the warmth and good cheer inside. Many of the best bistros in town are located here.

Buffet de l’AntiquaireDINER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.buffetdelantiquaire.com; 95 Rue St-Paul; breakfast $5-11, mains $13-19; h6am-9pm)

Tucked in among the antique shops and galleries is this convivial old-school diner. Locals and tourists alike crowd in for hearty breakfasts, steaming plates of poutine, savory meat pies and other tasty comfort fare, all served with friendly efficiency by the lone, peripatetic waitress. Grab a booth, a seat at the narrow counter, or a table on the upstairs balcony.

In warm weather, there are also sidewalk tables out front.

So-ChoFAST FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.so-cho.com; Marché du Vieux-Port, 160 Quai St-André; sandwiches $5.50; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

For a snack on the go, locals favor this humble stand inside Marché du Vieux-Port, with its ever-changing array of delectable homemade sausages. Four to 12 flavors are offered each day, from fines herbes to lamb with mint and garlic, to be enjoyed on a roll with sauerkraut and mustard.

Le Petit Cochon DingueCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0303; www.facebook.com/lepetitcochondingue; 24 Blvd Champlain; mains $7-12; h7:30am-10pm)

Near the foot of the funicular, this dapper if touristy cafe and patisserie makes a convenient destination for breakfast, coffee, salads, baguette sandwiches, grilled panini, draft beer and desserts.

oL'ÉchaudéFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1299; www.echaude.com; 73 Rue Sault-au-Matelot; lunch menus $15-28, dinner mains $22-36; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30pm-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5:30pm-11pm Sat & Sun)

Everything comes beautifully plated and bursting with flavor at this relaxed but classy bistro, one of the rare Old Town eateries where locals regularly outnumber tourists. Classics such as duck confit, steak frites and salmon tartare share the menu with daily specials like fish and mussel stew in a lobster-and-wine broth. The terrific wine list favors bottles from France.

Le Lapin SautéFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-5325; www.lapinsaute.com; 52 Rue du Petit-Champlain; mains $16-26; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Naturally, lapin (rabbit) plays a starring role at this cozy, rustic restaurant near the foot of the funicular, in dishes like rabbit cassoulet or rabbit and mushroom puff pastry pie. Other enticements include salads, French onion soup, charcuterie platters and an excellent value lunch menu (from $15). In good weather, sit on the flowery patio overlooking tiny Félix Leclerc park.

All of the rabbit served here is raised without hormones or antibiotics on a farm in nearby Beauce.

LégendeQUéBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-614-2555; restaurantlataniere.com; 255 Rue St-Paul ; mains $26-32; h5-10pm Sat-Tue, 11:30am-10pm Wed-Fri)

Seasonal cuisine and fine wine pairings are the name of the game at this classy newcomer under the direction of renowned restaurateurs Karen Therrien and Frédéric Laplante. Québecois oysters, mackerel, lamb and duck share the menu with artisanal cheeses and specialty ingredients such as birch syrup, chanterelle mushrooms or fiddlehead ferns.

All dishes can be ordered as appetizers or main courses, accompanied by sommelier-selected wines ($6 to $16 per glass).

Café St-MaloBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2004; www.lecafestmalo.com; 75 Rue St-Paul; mains $18-34; h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm)

For cozy French bistro atmosphere, you can't beat this cute, traditional hole-in-the-wall down by the Vieux-Port. The menu abounds in bistro classics like homemade cassoulet, moules marinière (mussels with garlic, parsley and white wine) and boudin noir grillé aux pommes (grilled blood sausage with apples), complemented by Québecois-influenced choices like venison ravioli or grilled salmon with sorrel sauce.

Le Mistral GagnantPROVENCAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-4260; www.mistralgagnant.ca; 160 Rue St-Paul; mains $18-34, menus $27-41; h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-9pm Tue-Sat)

The sunny flavors of Provence prevail at this eatery down on antiques row near the Vieux-Port. Specialties include bouillabaisse, lamb chops with thyme and basil, and duck breast in peach sauce. Happy yellow tablecloths festooned with olive branches set a festive mood.

Le Quai 19QUEBECOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-4448; www.lequai19.com; 48 Rue St-Paul; mains $25-29; h7:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Conveniently placed near the meeting of antiques row and the Vieux-Port, this relative newcomer with old stone walls and an open kitchen builds its menu around cuisine du marché, market-fresh cuisine that changes with the seasons. Scrumptious breakfasts and brunches, weekday lunch specials (from $15), and full-on three-course dinners ($45) make this an appealing stop any time of day.

Le Café du MondeBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-4455; www.lecafedumonde.com; 84 Rue Dalhousie; 3-course lunch menu $15-20, mains $17-40; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun)

This Paris-style bistro is the only restaurant in town directly on the St Lawrence River, although actually getting a table with a view can sometimes be a challenge. Bright, airy and casually elegant, it swears by bistro classics like steak frites and duck confit, but there’s also a great choice of other dishes, from grilled salmon to deer stew.

Gourmet breakfasts ($14 to $20) are served on weekends, and local Québec produce is featured throughout the menu.

Le Cochon DingueFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2013; www.cochondingue.com; 46 Blvd Champlain; mains $15-34; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun; c)

Since 1979, this ever-popular choice has been serving visitors and locals straight-ahead French standbys, from café au lait en bôl (in a bowl) to croque monsieur, sandwiches, steak frites, salads, mussels or quiche. It’s all good day-to-day food and a kid-friendly place to boot. There’s outside seating in warm weather for crowd-watching.

oPanacheFRENCH, QUéBéCOIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1022; www.saint-antoine.com/en/dining; 10 Rue St-Antoine; lunch mains $25-35, dinner mains $35-59; h7-10:30am, noon-2pm & 6-10pm)

The Auberge Saint-Antoine's celebrated restaurant receives top marks for its exquisite, imaginatively prepared Québécois cuisine and top-notch service. Dinners and attractively priced midday tables d'hôte feature locally sourced ingredients like maple-glazed halibut, Appalachian red deer with wild berry sauce or spit-roasted duck. It’s set in a stone-walled 19th-century maritime warehouse, with rustic wood beams and a blazing fire in winter.

oToast!BISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1334; www.restauranttoast.com; 17 Rue Sault-au-Matelot; mains $25-38; h6-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

Under the direction of Christian Lemelin (voted Québec’s best chef in 2014 by a jury of his peers), Toast! is among the city’s finest. The house’s signature foie gras appetizer is followed by a sumptuous array of dishes and a superb wine list, with fiery red decor setting a romantic mood. In summer, dine alfresco in the vine-covered back courtyard.

THE QUéBéCOIS TABLE

French food is king in Québec City. The lack of a significant immigrant population means that there is not the kind of massive ethnic smorgasbord that you’ll find in Montréal; even so, the quality of restaurants here is outstanding.

Québec City also boasts at least one drink that you won’t find in Montréal. Caribou is a potent blend of fortified wine and grain alcohol, sometimes mixed with spices and sweetened with maple syrup. Served hot at outdoor bars and streetside stalls during Québec's Winter Carnival, it's designed to warm body and soul in the coldest depths of winter.

5St-Jean Baptiste

St-Jean outside the walls is Québec City’s most popular local thoroughfare, with restaurants for every taste and budget interspersed with some of the town’s best groceries and bakeries.

Le BilligCREPERIE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 481 Rue St-Jean; crepes $4-18; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)

This Breton-owned creperie excels at crispy galettes (buckwheat-flour crepes), from traditional ham-and-cheese to specialty concoctions like merguez sausage, goat cheese and grilled vegetables, or smoked salmon, walnuts and lemon juice, all accompanied by a nice variety of draft beers and ciders. Flaming dessert crepes come with fillings ranging from maple syrup to poached pears, dark chocolate and vanilla ice cream.

Épicerie EuropéenneDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.epicerie-europeenne.com; 560 Rue St-Jean; sandwiches $7; h9am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

This gourmet grocery stocks a delectable mix of meats, cheeses, olive oils, vinegars, teas and coffees. It’s a good place to buy culinary-themed gifts or picnic supplies; at noon the deli case is well-stocked with delicious pre-made panini such as the Fiorentino (Italian-style roast pork, garlic-marinated spinach and mascarpone) and the Lyonnais (duck pâté, Dijon mustard, cornichons and onion confit).

Tutto GelatoICE CREAM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-0896; www.tuttogelato.ca; 716 Rue St-Jean; cones from $3.75; h9:30am-8pm Mar–mid-Oct, later in summer)

People line up at all hours for Tutto Gelato's creamy, rich, homemade ice cream. Over two dozen varieties of the Italian-style gelato and nine different sorbets (plus soy-based varieties for the vegan crowd) vie for attention behind the glass counters. Top picks include blueberry, passion fruit, pistachio, chestnut, green tea, pine nut, mascarpone-nutella, honey-lemon-ginger and chocolate-hazelnut.

Chez VictorBURGERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-529-7702; www.chezvictorburger.com; 145 Rue St-Jean; mains $13-18; h11:30am-9pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat; v)

One of Québec City's best-loved neighborhood eateries, Chez Victor specializes in juicy burgers, served with a hefty dash of creativity. Choose from deer, salmon, wild boar, straight-up beef or vegetarian, which you can then dress a number of ways (brie, smoked bacon, cream cheese etc). You’ll find several other branches around town, including one down by the Vieux-Port ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-781-2511; 300 Rue St-Paul; mains $13-19; h7:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun).

Side dishes here are also nice, including fresh coleslaw and fries, which you can get with a variety of sauces (including the recommended curry sauce). Dine on the tiny outdoor patio or in the cozy, exposed-brick dining room.

Le HobbitBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-647-2677; www.hobbitbistro.com; 700 Rue St-Jean; mains $16-29; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun)

This popular and inviting bistro has outdoor seating, a casual atmosphere and good-value lunch and dinner specials (check out the chalkboard). The classics are all nicely done, including juicy duck confit and steak frites. Various fresh pasta dishes and salads round out the menu, and there’s a small but fairly priced wine list. Breakfast is served till 2:30pm on weekends.

5Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

Ave Cartier between Grande Allée and Blvd René-Lévesque is packed with upscale delis, bistros and markets. Just around the corner, the nightlife hub of Grande Allée has a sizeable cluster of bars and alfresco restaurants perfect for an evening meal or drink.

PicardieDELI, BAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.picardiecartier.com; 1029 Ave Cartier; deli items from $7; h8am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 7pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sun)

Featuring a tantalizing array of sweet and savory snacks, this neighborhood traiteur (deli) is a browser’s delight. The display case up front is devoted to croissants, chocolatines and other baked goodies, while the longer case beyond brims with quiches, salmon pies, gourmet sandwiches, tomato and camembert tarts, and tartiflette (an Alpine dish of potatoes, cheese, cream and bacon).

If you’ve got access to a kitchen, you might even consider the gourmet frozen meals to go, in the freezer opposite the main deli counter.

Pâtisserie-Chocolaterie Anna PierrotCHOCOLATE, PASTRIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-2662; www.annapierrot.com; 1191 Ave Cartier; h7:30am-7pm Sat-Wed, 7am-9pm Thu & Fri)

This pastry and chocolate shop in the Halles du Petit Quartier market will prove irresistible to anyone with a sweet tooth. A tempting array of cakes, éclairs, truffles, tarts, petits fours, macarons and more are gorgeously displayed in the wraparound glass case.

oMorenaBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418 529-3668; www.morena-food.com; 1038 Ave Cartier; mains $15-17; h8am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun)

Tucked into a gourmet grocery-deli on tony Ave Cartier, this Italian-themed neighborhood bistro makes a lively but low-key lunch stop. Daily chalkboard specials are beautifully presented, with fresh veggies on the side and a soup or salad appetizer. After 3pm there’s an à la carte snack menu. After your meal it’s also a fun place to browse for food-related gifts.

Dine solo at the counter or enjoy a tête-à-tête with your traveling companion at one of the little tables for two.

Bistro BBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-614-5444; www.bistrob.ca; 1144 Ave Cartier; mains $20-30; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri & 6-11pm daily)

The brainchild of chef François Blais, formerly of Panache, this place on Ave Cartier draws a well-heeled crowd for business lunches, when reasonably priced specials are chalked up on the giant board above the large open kitchen. New menus are improvised daily based on whatever ingredients are freshest at the Halles du Petit Quartier market down the street.

Café KrieghoffCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-3711; www.cafekrieghoff.qc.ca; 1091 Ave Cartier; breakfast mains $7-17, lunch & dinner mains $11-26; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun)

Especially appealing in warm weather, this cheerful spot has excellent breakfasts, a pleasant back terrace and a laid-back front porch where you can watch the comings and goings on Ave Cartier. Inside, the dining room is decorated with reproductions from Cornelius Krieghoff (1815–72), one of Québec’s master painters of the 19th century, who lived nearby on Grande Allée.

5St-Roch

The rejuvenation of St-Roch means everything from shopping to entertainment has become more exciting – and the eating scene is no exception. A youthful population keeps things dynamic, and new places are opening all the time.

oLe CroquemboucheBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lecroquembouche.com; 225 Rue St-Joseph Est; pastries from $2; h7am-6:30pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Widely hailed as Québec City’s finest bakery, Croquembouche draws devoted locals from dawn to dusk. Among its seductive offerings are fluffy-as-a-cloud croissants, tantalizing cakes and éclairs, brioches brimming with raspberries, and gourmet sandwiches on fresh-baked bread. There's also a stellar array of danoises (Danish pastries), including orange and anise, cranberry, pistachio and chocolate, and lemon, ginger and poppy seed.

Café Crack Grill-CheeseSANDWICHES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.crackgrillcheese.com; 199 Rue St-Joseph Est; sandwiches $4.50-10; h10:30am-8pm )

Sharing space with a gourmet cheese shop, this high-ceilinged, brick-walled corner spot raises the humble grilled cheese sandwich to unprecedented heights. The big chalkboard menu lists a dizzying array of choices, from straight-up grilled cheddar 'like Mom used to make' to alternatives that jazz up the concept with fancy cheeses, smoked salmon and trout, mushrooms and dipping sauces.

La CuisineDINER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-523-3387; www.barlautrecuisine.com; 205 Rue St-Vallier Est; mains $10; h11am-1am Mon-Wed, 11am-3am Thu & Fri, 2pm-3am Sat, 2pm-1am Sun)

Retro decor and comfort food served till the wee hours are the hallmarks of this trendy, low-lit local hangout midway between St-Jean Baptiste and St-Roch. Formica tables, mismatched china and silverware, light fixtures made from colanders, a vintage Wurlitzer jukebox, and board games give the place a fun, relaxed feel. On weekend nights, DJs spin everything from electronica to soul.

The menu features five no-nonsense mains each day, from stuffed cabbage to shepherd's pie; if you’re still hungry, you can add soup of the day for $3, or coffee and dessert for $4.

Bati BassakCAMBODIAN, THAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-4567; www.bati-bassak.com; 125 Rue St-Joseph Est; mains $12-19; h11am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-9:30pm Tue-Sun)

Good Asian food is hard to come by in Québec City, but this bustling Thai-Cambodian eatery is a welcome exception, serving a menu full of tasty meat and fish dishes, along with several veggie offerings. Weekday lunch specials offer especially good value at $10 to $14 including appetizer, tea and dessert. No alcohol is served, but you're welcome to bring your own.

Hosaka-yaJAPANESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-780-1903; www.hosaka-ya.com; 75 Rue St-Joseph Est; mains $11-14; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Tue-Sat)

Catering to a young, informal clientele, this straight-ahead noodle house specializes in delicious ramen soups filled with pork, fish, tofu and loads of veggies. Draft beer, wine, and a good sake selection make it a cozy place for a sit-down meal, but it's also a great take-out option if you’d rather hunker down in the hotel for a night.

oCafé du Clocher PenchéFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-640-0597; www.clocherpenche.ca; 203 Rue St-Joseph Est; mains $21-27, brunch & lunch menus from $17; h11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm & 5-10pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)

This splendid, high-ceilinged cafe serves classy bistro fare that proudly shows off local Québécois products. What sets it apart are the delicious – and very rich – weekend brunches, featuring homemade brioches with fresh fruit, crème fraîche and maple syrup, bagels topped with smoked mackerel, or veggie chili served with poached eggs, roasted squash, and lime sour cream. Reservations recommended.

L’Affaire est KetchupBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418 529-9020; www.facebook.com/laffaireest.ketchup; 46 Rue St-Joseph Est; mains $17-24; h6-11pm Tue-Sun)

Book ahead for this quirky local favorite with only eight tables. Dressed in T-shirts and baseball caps, bantering relaxedly with one another as they cook on a pair of electric stoves, founders François and Olivier specialize in home cooking with a trendy modern twist. A good selection of wines and mixed drinks is available from the well-stocked bar.

The ever-changing menu ranges from classics like duck breast with lentils, or stewed pork with mashed potatoes, to the unexpected – octopus salad with crunchy vegetables, or lime gelatin with apple, cucumber and mint mousse.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

QUéBEC CITY’S BEST BAKERIES

Like any self-respecting cradle of French culture, Québec is swarming with fabulous bakeries and patisseries – no matter where you are in the city, there’s one near you!

Two perennial favorites are Le Croquembouche and Paillard Café-Boulangerie. Here are a few others worth trying, if you want to do a little taste-testing as you stroll:

ALa Boîte à Pain ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; boiteapain.com; 289 Rue St-Joseph Est; pastries from $2; h6:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5:30pm Sun) Watch through the window as the bakers roll out their dough, then pop in next door and sample the finished product. Among the many treats worth tasting are the gigantic brioches à la cannelle (cinnamon rolls). It’s down in St-Roch, on the same block as Le Croquembouche.

ALe Paingruel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 375 Rue St-Jean; h7am-6:30pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat) In the heart of St-Jean Baptiste, this place bakes up an ever-changing lineup of hearty breads, from classic baguettes to loaves laced with walnuts, hazelnuts, chocolate and cranberries. Look for the day-by-day schedule of the week's offerings, posted by the front door.

ALe Panetier Baluchon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.panetier-baluchon.com; 764 Rue St-Jean; h7:30am-7:30pm) In business for over 30 years, this bakery a few blocks west of Porte St-Jean uses organic grains grown on its own farm in Beauce, 55km outside the city.

AÉric Borderon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.artisanborderon.com; 1191 Ave Cartier; h8am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) Look for this renowned baguette master’s stand inside the Halles du Petit Quartier market, in Montcalm.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Let’s be honest. Québec City isn’t exactly considered a party town. That said, what the city does offer after dark is quite special, fun and refreshingly attitude-free. What the swankier supper clubs and restaurants may lack in urban edge, they more than make up for in friendly ambience and top-notch service; simply put, you get the feeling that everyone is welcome.

For club, bar and other entertainment listings, pick up the weekly Voir Québec (www.voir.ca/quebec, published every Thursday). Other useful free publications include Scope (www.quebecscope.com), a glossy monthly that focuses on music and cultural events, Fugues (www.fugues.com), a free monthly gay and lesbian entertainment guide, and Le Clap (www.clap.qc.ca), a bimonthly guide to cinema. Have fun!

6Old Upper Town

Pub St-AlexandreBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0015; www.pubstalexandre.com; 1087 Rue St-Jean; h11am-3am)

High ceilings and dark wood house a loyal mix of tourists and locals at this popular English pub. A near encyclopedic range of suds (250 sorts!) and over three dozen types of single malt keep the crowds coming back for more. Live music nightly – Celtic, blues, jazz and more – contributes to the animated atmosphere.

6Old Lower Town

oL'Oncle AntoinePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-9176; www.facebook.com/oncleantoine; 29 Rue St-Pierre; h11am-1am)

Set clandestinely in the stone cave-cellar of one of the city’s oldest surviving houses (dating from 1754), this great tavern pours out excellent Québec microbrews (try the Barberie Noir stout or the strong Belgian-style Fin du Monde), several drafts (en fût) and various European beers.

Aviatic ClubWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-3555; wwww.aviatic.ca; 450 Ave de la Gare-du-Palais; h11:30am-4pm Mon, 11:30am-10pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Sat)

This elegant wine bar and restaurant is nestled in the historic Gare du Palais train station and attracts a professional crowd. A rotating list of 50 wines is served by the glass, and a vibrant outdoor terrace opens up in warmer weather.

6St-Jean Baptiste

oLe Moine ÉchansonWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-7832; www.lemoineechanson.com; 585 Rue St-Jean; h5pm-1am)

A darling of the city’s wine connoisseurs, this convivial brick-walled bistro pours an enticing and ever-changing array of wines from all over the Mediterranean, by the glass and by the bottle, accompanied by hearty and homespun snacks ($9 to $16) and main dishes ($18 to $24) such as blood sausage, cheese fondue, or lentil soup. Reservations recommended.

Each season brings a new theme, with emphasis placed on a single French region or department (Ardèche, Jura etc) or Mediterranean country. Crowds pour in after work, quickly filling the two rooms to capacity, starting with aperitifs and lingering on through dinner. During business hours it also doubles as a wine merchant, selling hard-to-find bottles to take away.

oLe SacrilègeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesacrilege.com; 447 Rue St-Jean; hnoon-3am)

With its unmistakable sign of a laughing, dancing monk saucily flaunting his knickers, this bar has long been the watering hole of choice for Québec's night owls, who start or end their weekend revelry here. Even on Monday, it’s standing-room only. There’s a popular terrace out back; get to it through the bar or the tiny brick alley next door.

La NinkasiBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-529-8538; www.laninkasi.ca; 811 Rue Saint-Jean; h11am-3am)

Specializing in Québecois microbrews – and nothing but Québecois microbrews – this place has a youthful party vibe, cheap bar snacks, and a dozen-plus local beers and ciders on tap at all times, including rotating weekly specials. Occasional live rock bands and other performers keep things hopping on weekend nights.

Le DragueGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ledrague.com; 815 Rue St-Augustin; h10am-3am)

The star player on Québec City’s tiny gay scene, Le Drague comprises a front outdoor terrace, a two-level disco where drag shows are held, a slightly more laid-back tavern, and the men-only Base 3, which…well…let’s just say it turns the capital’s conservative reputation on its head.

Nelligan’s Irish PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pubnelligans.ca; 789 Côte Ste-Geneviève; h4pm-3am)

Tucked into a pair of brick-walled upstairs rooms just downhill from Rue St-Jean, this Irish pub makes a cozy spot to sip an Irish whisky on a cold winter’s night or down a few pints on a midsummer’s evening. There’s also occasional live Irish music and pub grub ranging from Harp-battered fish and chips to rosemary-scented duck poutine.

6Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

L'InoxPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.inox.qc.ca; 655 Grande Allée Est; h1pm-3am)

At this popular brewpub on the Grande Allée party circuit, the blackboard behind the bar brims with choices, including the citrus- and coriander-scented Trouble-Fête (available year-round), and a rotating lineup of seasonal brews such as Viking, a cranberry-infused concoction inspired by ancient Norse recipes. The outdoor terrace is great for people-watching in summer, or Calvados-spiked hot chocolate during Winter Carnival.

L'AtelierCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-2225; www.bistrolatelier.com; 624 Grande Allée Est; h11:30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Bright and buzzy, this new arrival on the Grande Allée drinking scene is a fun spot for late afternoon and evening cocktails. Brick walls, cushioned benches, and a sea of lights and cocktail glasses hanging from the ceiling create a convivial atmosphere for sampling over two dozen creative cocktails with names like 'Absolut Douchebag' and '24 Likes, 9 Comments.'

Chez MauriceCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mauricenightclub.com; 575 Grande Allée Est; h9pm-3am Thu & Fri, 10pm-3am Sat)

Sprawling across a gutted, châteaulike mansion and cheekily named after hard-ass former Québec premier Maurice Duplessis, this entertainment complex has three separate partying spaces: the Maurice nightclub and disco, whose multiple rooms buzz with youthful energy until the wee hours, the chic Charlotte Lounge, and the Société Cigare, a refined, chilled-out bar with 200 sorts of cigars to choose from.

Chez DagobertCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-0393; http://dagobert.ca; 600 Grande Allée Est; h10pm-3am Wed-Sun)

Multifloors, multibars, multiscreens – the capital’s classic disco behemoth has everything from live rock to naughty DJs. The music may change, the young, randy crowd stays the same.

6St-Roch

oLa BarberieBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.labarberie.com; 310 Rue Saint-Roch; hnoon-1am)

This cooperative St-Roch micro-brewery is beloved for its spacious tree-shaded deck, its ever-evolving selection of eight home brews, and its unique BYO policy, which allows customers to bring snacks in from the outside. Seasonal offerings range from classic pale ales to quirkier options such as orange stout or hot pepper amber. Undecided? Sample 'em all in the popular eight-beer carousel!

Nektar CaféoloqueCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lenektar.com; 235 St-Joseph Est; h7am-7pm Mon-Wed, 7am-9pm Thu & Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Serious coffee lovers should make the pilgrimage down to this splendid little cafe in St-Roch, which serves the best espresso drinks in town. Settling in on the sofa here with a big, velvety latte is one of Québec City's great morning pleasures.

Les Salons D’EdgarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-523-7811; www.lessalonsdedgar.com; 263 Rue St-Vallier Est; h4:30pm-late Wed-Sat, 5:30pm-late Sun)

At this unofficial ‘official’ hangout for the city’s theater community, the eavesdropping is as much fun as the drinking – you’ll be privy to conversations on roles lost and roles gained.

Brasserie la KorriganeBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.korrigane.ca; 380 Rue Dorchester; h2pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

St-Roch’s newest microbrewery features a full rainbow of flavors, including specialty brews such as Emily Carter blueberry beer and the maple-laced Croquemitaine, all served up with pub grub from artisanal producers. You’ll also find Sunday improv nights and swing dancing every other Wednesday.

Le BoudoirLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-2777; www.facebook.com/BoudoirLounge; 441 Rue du Parvis; h4:30pm-3am Wed-Sun)

Part restaurant, part nightclub, all scene, this posh but low-key lounge in the hip St-Roch district is pretty much the place for well-heeled locals to party. On weekends two DJs let you choose between downtempo and dancing, while games include billiards, Wii and Pac-Man.

3Entertainment

The performing arts are in fine form in Québec City. The city boasts a symphony orchestra, L’Orchestre Symphonique de Québec, and an opera company, Opéra de Québec. Homegrown Québécois bands perform regularly, as do touring bands from across Canada, the US and Europe, especially during the Festival d’Été in July. Live performance venues abound, from concert halls, to open-air amphitheaters, to little jazz and rock clubs, to exuberant boîtes à chanson (Québec folk-music clubs), where generations of locals dance and sing with uncensored glee. French-language theater is also an interesting scene here, with tons of small companies producing a variety of shows.

3Old Upper Town

Les Gros BecsTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-7880; www.lesgrosbecs.qc.ca; 1143 Rue St-Jean; hshows Sep-May; c)

Devoted to children and young people, this brilliantly creative French-language theater company mounts over a dozen shows annually. Its colorful catalog specifies suggested age ranges – from one to 17 – for every production.

3Old Lower Town

Théâtre Petit-ChamplainTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2631; www.theatrepetitchamplain.com; 68 Rue du Petit-Champlain)

This theater near the base of the funicular is a great place to see Québec’s most popular singing stars. It also stages occasional French-language theater productions and comedy gigs.

Le Pape GeorgesLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-1320; www.papegeorges.ca; 8½ Rue de Cul-de-Sac; h4pm-3am Mon-Wed, noon-3am Thu-Sun)

With live music at least three nights a week (more in the summer) from 10pm, this charming bar located in a 300-year-old house also serves cheeses, meats and baguettes with a healthy dollop of Québécois culture.

3St-Jean Baptiste

Palais MontcalmLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palaismontcalm.ca; 995 Pl d’Youville)

Just outside the Upper Town’s walls, this theater hosts a stellar lineup of concerts year-round, featuring everything from opera to chamber music to jazz to rock. The main performance space, the Salle Raoul-Jobin, is renowned for its superb acoustics.

Le Théâtre CapitoleLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-4444; www.lecapitole.com; 972 Rue St-Jean)

A terrific, historic old theater that now stages everything from musicals to rock concerts. Check out the sumptuous attached hotel. This is where Hitchcock held his I Confess premiere.

Fou-BarLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-1987; www.foubar.ca; 525 Rue St-Jean; h2:30pm-3am)

Laid-back and with an eclectic mix of bands, this bar is one of the town’s classics for good live music. It’s also popular for its reasonably priced food menu and its free pique-assiettes (appetizers) on Thursday and Friday evenings.

GAY & LESBIAN VENUES

The city’s gay and lesbian club scene is tiny, with pretty much everything centered around Le Drague. Another address of interest is Galerie DomaHom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.domahom.com; 221 Rue St-Jean), a cafe-art gallery that features the work of local gay and lesbian artists by day, then morphs after dark into the all-male Club ForHom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-4918; www.forhom.ca; 221 Rue St-Jean; h5pm-1am Tue-Sun), with nightly drink specials, gay film nights and more. Plenty of other bars and clubs are gay-friendly, including Chez Maurice, Chez Dagobert and Le Sacrilège.

In late August or early September, the city’s LGBT community comes out in full force for the annual Fête Arc-en-Ciel. For info on parties and other gay events, Fugues (www.fugues.com) is the free gay and lesbian entertainment guide with listings for the entire province of Québec.

3Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

Grand Théâtre de QuébecPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-643-8131, 418-643-8131; www.grandtheatre.qc.ca; 269 Blvd René-Lévesque Est)

Le Grand Théâtre is the city’s main performing arts center with a steady diet of top-quality classical concerts, dance and theater. Major companies that perform regularly here include the Opéra de Québec ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-529-0688; www.operadequebec.qc.ca; 1220 Ave Taché), the Orchestre Symphonique de Québec ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-8486, 418-643-8131; www.osq.org; 269 Blvd René-Lévesque Est) and the Théâtre du Trident ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-643-5873; www.letrident.com; 269 Blvd René-Lévesque Est).

Kiosque Edwin-BélangerLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-648-4050; www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca/en/activities/kiosque-edwin-belanger; Battlefields Park)

Each summer dozens of free concerts are staged at this bandstand in the middle of Battlefields Park. Music covers everything from pop, jazz and world music to blues.

Les Voûtes de NapoléonLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-640-9388; www.voutesdenapoleon.com; 680A Grande Allée Est; h9:30pm-late)

At this jubilant boîte à chanson (Québécois folk cabaret) it will likely be just you and the locals. There’s lively Québécois music nightly, usually of the ‘singer-with-guitar’ variety, with lesser-known, up-and-coming acts featuring prominently.

Cinéma CartierCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-1011; www.cinemacartier.com; 1019 Ave Cartier; h1pm-late)

This beloved neighborhood cinema began as a deliciously old-world little place attached to a video shop, with big comfy chairs and nothing but art-house films. Recently expanded, it still devotes half of its screen space to independent films, but also shows Hollywood blockbusters and family-oriented fare. Most films are alternately shown in their original version and dubbed in French.

3St-Roch

oLe CercleLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-948-8648; www.le-cercle.ca; 226½ Rue St-Joseph Est; h11:30am-1:30am Mon-Wed, 11:30am-3am Thu & Fri, 3pm-3am Sat, 10am-1:30am Sun)

This very cool art space and show venue draws a hip crowd for its international DJs and underground bands, ranging from indie rock to electronica, blues to cajun. It hosts numerous other events, including film, fashion and comic strip festivals, book- and album-release parties, wine tastings and more. Affordable tapas, weekend brunches and an atmospheric bar space sweeten the deal.

La RotondeDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-649-5013; www.larotonde.qc.ca; 336 Rue du Roi)

This contemporary dance center presents shows from international touring companies as well as local dancers, including experimental and cutting-edge works. It also offers workshops and classes, and is pivotal in keeping dance alive in Québec. Shows are staged at La Rotonde's main studio on Rue du Roi and at several other venues around town.

ScannerLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-523-1916; www.scannerbistro.com; 291 Rue St-Vallier Est; h3pm-3am Sat-Thu, 11:30am-3am Fri)

Ask any local between the ages of 18 and 35 to suggest a cool place for a drink and this is where they might send you. DJs and live bands serve up a potent musical mix, from heavy metal to hard rock to punk to rockabilly. There’s a terrace outside in summer, plus foosball and pool inside year-round.

CITY OF HISTORICAL SUPERLATIVES

As befits a place that played such a crucial role in the history of the New World, Québec City is awash in historical superlatives. Among other things, the city is home to the continent’s first parish church, first Anglican cathedral and first French-speaking university. When you flip through the Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph (www.qctonline.com), you’re reading North America’s oldest newspaper, and if you have to pay a visit to L’Hôtel Dieu de Québec, console yourself with the thought that it’s the continent’s oldest hospital!

3Elsewhere Outside the Walls

Le ClapCINEMA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-653-2470; www.clap.qc.ca; 2360 Chemin Ste-Foy; h11am-midnight)

Located in Ste-Foy-Sillery, Le Clap’s mandate is to show off the best of what’s going on in the film world. On any given afternoon, the eclectic mix here might include the latest indie French film, a Québecois documentary, an American blockbuster, and a live broadcast from the Opéra de Paris. Non-French-language films are sometimes dubbed in French, sometimes subtitled.

Visitors to the Old Town will appreciate Le Clap's Monday and Tuesday afternoon screenings at the Musée de la Civilisation, a new initiative launched in 2014.

Amphithéâtre de QuébecLIVE MUSIC, SPECTATOR SPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; 250 Blvd Wilfrid-Hamel)

Opened in fall 2015, the city's brand new $400 million, 18,500-seat Amphithéâtre (also known as the Québecor Arena) hosts rock concerts and is home to the Québec City Remparts of the Québec Major Junior Hockey League.

7Shopping

While it may not have as many big international stores and high-end designer boutiques as some larger cities, Québec is a shopper’s paradise in its own special way. Small, unique and authentic little boutiques are this touristy town’s claim to retail fame, and the city’s small size makes it ideal for strolling around and browsing for surprises. Local clothing, eyewear and jewelry designers, purveyors of specialty foods and homemade chocolate, and the antique dealers down on Rue St-Paul all are representative of the city’s small-scale, classy approach to commerce.

You’ll find that many stores within the Old Town walls cater primarily (if not exclusively) to tourists, whereas those in the outlying neighborhoods draw a much more local crowd. The best streets for aimless window-shopping include Rue du Petit-Champlain and Rue St-Paul in the Old Lower Town, Ave Cartier in Montcalm, Rue St-Joseph in St-Roch, and Rue St-Jean (both inside and outside the walls). As a general rule, stores in Québec City keep later hours on Thursday and Friday nights.

7Old Upper Town

SimonsDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-3630; www.simons.ca; 20 Côte de la Fabrique; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

One of the city’s business success stories, Simons was started as a dry-goods store in the 1800s by the son of a Scottish immigrant. By 1952 his descendants had turned the business into a successful clothing store. It’s popular all over Québec for stocking items more cutting-edge than those at competing department stores. There’s been a Simons at this location since 1870.

Galerie d'Art Inuit Brousseau et BrousseauARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-1828; www.artinuit.ca; 35 Rue St-Louis; h9:30am-5:30pm)

Devoted to Inuit carvings from artists all over arctic Canada, this place is gorgeously set up and elaborately lit, with well-trained staff who knowledgeably answer questions. Carvings range from the small to the large and intricate. Expect high quality and steep prices. International shipping is available.

Les 3 ToursCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1124 Rue St-Jean; h9am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat, 9:30am-5:30pm Sun)

Devoted to all things medieval, this Québec company sells clothes, jewelry and accessories, many of them the work of Québécois designers. This is one of many such stores around the province.

7Old Lower Town

Marché du Vieux-PortFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-2517; www.marchevieuxport.com; 160 Quai St André; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

At this heaving local food market, you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables as well as dozens of local specialties, from Île d’Orléans blackcurrant wine to ciders, honeys, cheeses, sausages, chocolates, herbal hand creams and, of course, maple-syrup products. Weekends see huge crowds and more wine tastings than can be considered sensible.

oLa FromagèreFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Marché du Vieux-Port; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

This wonderful little shop just inside the main entrance of the Vieux-Port market sells an awe-inspiring selection of Québécois cheeses. For a notion of the tremendous variety available here, check out the Québec dairy association website, www.ourcheeses.com.

Les Branchés LunetterieFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesbrancheslunetterie.ca; 155 Rue St-Paul; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

Displaying a fanciful, wildly colorful mix of designer eyewear from Québec, France and Spain, this is a fun place to browse, even if you’re not necessarily in the market for new glasses frames. The collection's centerpiece is the room dedicated to frames from Montures Faniel (www.monturesfaniel.com), a Québécois business founded by opera-singer-turned-designer Anne-Marie Faniel; her music also graces the store.

CandeurBEAUTY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.candeur.ca; 117 Rue St-Paul; h10am-5pm daily in summer, Sat & Sun only in winter)

A great spot for small gifts, this sweet boutique specializes in artisanal Québecois soaps made with goat's milk, herbal oils and other natural ingredients. The beautifully displayed soap selection features a pleasing array of colors and charming French touches, such as the soaps imprinted with fleur-de-lys motifs.

Gérard Bourguet AntiquaireANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0896; 97 Rue St-Paul; h10:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat)

This specialist in Québécois antique furniture has a wide range of lovely pieces, including painted chests, cupboards and tables, as well as a nice selection of ceramics and folk art wood carvings. The owner makes frequent buying trips, so call ahead to make sure the shop’s open.

Le Rendez-Vous du CollectionneurANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 123 Rue St-Paul; h10am-5pm)

Antique lamps and silverware from Château Frontenac are among the many items crowding the shelves at this well-established shop on the Lower Town’s antiques row.

Joaillerie Jules PerrierJEWELRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-0880; www.jewelryjulesperrier.com; 39 Rue du Petit-Champlain; h10am-5pm)

Passion is the inspiration behind this well-known jeweler’s stunning designs, unique earrings, brooches, pendants and more. Still a family business, it’s full of precious stones, making browsing in this elegant locale feel like perusing art.

La Petite Cabane à Sucre du QuébecFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-5875; www.petitecabaneasucre.com; 94 Rue du Petit-Champlain; h9:30am-5:30pm Sat-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri)

Maple syrup is a massive industry in Québec, and this touristy little shop sells it in every shape and form: candies, delicacies, ice cream, snacks, syrup-related accessories and, of course, the sweet stuff itself.

7St-Jean Baptiste

oJA Moisan ÉpicierFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-0685; www.jamoisan.com; 695 Rue St-Jean; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun)

Established in 1871, this charming store bills itself as North America's oldest grocery. It's a browser's dream come true, packed with beautifully displayed edibles and kitchen and household items. Many products fall on the ‘You’ve got to be kidding!’ side of expensive, but you'll find items here you’ve never seen before, along with heaps of local goods and gift ideas.

ÉricoFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ericochocolatier.com; 634 Rue St-Jean; h10:30am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Sun, extended hours in summer)

The exotic smells and flavors here will send a chocolate lover into conniptions of joy. The main shop brims with truffles, chocolate chip cookies, ice cream and seasonal chocolate treats, while the quirky museum next door has a dress made entirely of chocolate, old-fashioned gumball machines dispensing 25-cent samples, and a window where you can watch the chocolatiers at work.

Don’t miss Érico’s inspired and ever-changing seasonal offerings: chocolate roses for Valentine's Day, barrel-shaped truffles filled with caribou (fortified wine) for Winter Carnival, and chocolate bunnies and chickens at Easter.

Rose BoutonJEWELRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-614-9507; www.boutiquerose.blogspot.com; 387 Rue St-Jean; h11am-6pm Tue & Wed, to 7pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 3pm Sun)

This colorful shop features a fun mix of earrings, necklaces and pins made onsite, along with an eclectic collection of reasonably priced items created by (mostly) Québecois artists, from notecards to hair accessories.

7Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

Boutique KettöCERAMICS, JEWELRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-3337; www.kettodesign.com; 951 Ave Cartier; h10am-5pm Sat, Sun, Tue & Wed, 10am-7pm Thu & Fri)

Illustrator Julie St-Onge-Drouin started up Kettö after her illustrative designs kept finding their way onto ceramic surfaces. Now at this big, bright and beautifully set-up boutique, they’re on everything from plates and mugs to ceramic jewelry and necklaces. Her designs are sold in small boutiques throughout Québec, but the selection here is better than you'll find elsewhere.

SillonsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-8352; www.sillons.com; 1149 Ave Cartier; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

In business for over three decades, this independent music store specializes in jazz, world music and performers from Québec and France. It’s a great place to build up your library of Québécois music and learn what’s new on the regional scene.

Les Halles du Petit QuartierFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hallesdupetitquartier.com; 1191 Ave Cartier; h7:30am-7pm Sat-Wed, 7am-9pm Thu & Fri)

Montcalm’s very popular indoor food market features individual stalls for bakers, chocolatiers, and fruit, vegetable, cheese, meat and fish vendors, plus a half dozen cafes and restaurants.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE INSIDE INFO

AShopping Streets Stroll Rue St-Jean outside the walls in St-Jean Baptiste, Rue St-Joseph in St-Roch, Ave Cartier in Montcalm, or Rue Maguire in Sillery.

AMarkets For the freshest cheeses, meats and produce, locals head for the Marché du Vieux-Port down by the waterfront or Les Halles du Petit Quartier in Montcalm.

AHangouts Dance into the wee hours at Le Cercle, or while away a summer evening drinking beer with laid-back locals on the outdoor terrace at La Barberie.

7St-Roch

Myco AnnaFASHION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-2270; www.mycoanna.com; 615 Rue St-Vallier Ouest; h11am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun )

Old meets new at this bright and daring women’s fashion line’s signature shop. Launched in 1995, Myco Anna is known for bright, patchworky, flirty and sexy dresses – all made from at least some recycled material.

BenjoTOYS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-640-0001; www.benjo.ca; 543 Rue St-Joseph Est; h10am-5:30pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun)

This toy shop gives a glimpse into what the world would be like if kids ran the show. Even the front door is pint-sized (the adult-sized door for grown-ups is off to the side). There’s a train that goes around the store on weekends, and arts and crafts for little ones during the week.

John FluevogSHOES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fluevog.com; 539 Rue St-Joseph Est; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Recently honored as Canada’s ‘Shoe Person of the Year’ (yes, there really is such an award!), Vancouver-based John Fluevog has been designing outlandishly colorful and stylish shoes for over four decades. His Québec City store fits in perfectly with the trendy St-Roch neighborhood.

Mountain Equipment Co-OpOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-8884; www.mec.ca; 405 Rue St-Joseph Est; h10am-5pm Sun, to 7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 9am-5pm Sat)

The mountain man (or woman) in all of us needs his fix, especially if you’re planning to conquer the great Québec wilderness. Enter this sprawling shop, the largest from the renowned Canadian brand, complete with an outdoor resource center to help you plan your adventure. In winter, it rents out cross-country skis, snowshoes and ice-climbing gear.

JB LalibertéCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lalibertemode.com; 595 Rue St-Joseph Est; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Founded in 1867, this furrier has grown into one of Canada’s major players. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but you’ll find fancy collections of furs, coats, accessories and more, quite reasonably priced.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

QUéBEC WINTER CARNIVAL

Billing itself as the world's largest winter carnival, Carnaval de Québec (Québec Winter Carnival; www.carnaval.qc.ca; hJan or Feb) is an exuberant celebration of ice, snow and wintry community fun. It begins each year on the third weekend before Ash Wednesday and culminates 17 days later when Bonhomme – the giant smiling snowman and official carnival mascot – bids a wistful adieu to his adoring fans.

In the buildup to Carnaval, the city takes on a new look, as a gargantuan ice palace is built opposite the Parliament Building and the Plains of Abraham get converted into a vast winter playground, with ice slides, snow tubing, dog sledding, sleigh rides, giant rubber duck races for kids, and maple taffy making added to the park's usual repertoire of outdoorsy winter activities.

Special events fill the three weekends of Carnaval, including ice canoe races across the St Lawrence River, magnificent night parades with whimsical floats, and the infamous bain de neige (snow bath), in which a few dozen scantily clad – and stark raving mad – people court frostbite by volunteering to dance, roll and cavort in the snow with Bonhomme. Other highlights include action-packed sleigh races and an international ice sculpture competition, with participants from as far away as Morocco.

Carnaval in its current incarnation dates back to 1955 and carries with it several proud traditions. Many carnival-goers emulate Bonhomme's ceremonial attire, sporting the traditional tuque (hat) and ceinture fléchée (a wide colorful sash worn around the waist). To attend the festivities, you'll need to buy an effigie ($15), a miniature representation of Bonhomme that's sold around town and at the entrance to the fairgrounds. Veteran Carnaval-goers proudly wear decades worth of past effigies pinned to their sashes as they wander from event to event.

Revelers stave off the frigid weather by drinking caribou – a fortified spiced wine served hot; buy it by the glass, or follow the locals' lead and pick up a canne, a hollow plastic cane festooned with Bonhomme's likeness, which can be filled to the brim with caribou at stands dotted around town – and used as a walking stick when your gait goes wobbly.

For exact dates and a full schedule of events, see www.carnaval.qc.ca. Bear in mind that the city overflows with tourists during Carnaval, so it's best to book accommodations and restaurants in advance. Oh, and don't forget your warm clothes – you'll need 'em!

2Sports & Activities

Whether it’s summer or deepest, darkest winter, you can expect to find Québec City locals enjoying life outdoors. Aside from strolling the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, there’s a whole range of activities on offer in and around town.

Inside the city limits there are picturesque parks and paths ideal for an early-morning jog or bike ride, as well as a host of winter sports – skating, cross-country skiing and tobogganing – when the weather turns cold. Just outside of town, you can also go rafting along the Jacques Cartier River or downhill skiing at Mont-Ste-Anne.

There’s a large network of bike paths feeding from the Vieux-Port out into the surrounding countryside. Ask for the free bicycle route map at local tourist offices. Île d’Orléans can also be a fantastic setting for a bicycle outing, but because there are no bike paths and heaps of traffic in summer, this route is not recommended for children.

If you prefer a more sedentary approach, take a train ride along the St Lawrence River, or check out the cluster of boat-tour operators moored near Place-Royale; these cross the St Lawrence to Lévis or go downriver towards Montmorency Falls and Île d’Orléans.

oBattlefields ParkOUTDOORS

(Parc des Champs de Bataille; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; c)

Conveniently close to the Old Town and boasting fine views of the St Lawrence River, this vast park is Québec City's prime venue for outdoor activities. You can walk or run along the network of trails, or pound the pavement of a terrific jogging track built atop a former horse-racing course. The park is also ideal for in-line skating and a host of winter activities, including cross-country skiing, skating and snowshoeing.

oGlissade de la TerrasseSNOW SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.au1884.ca; Terrasse Dufferin; per person $3; h11am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat mid-Dec–mid-Mar; c; g3, 11)

Outside Le Château Frontenac, the scenic Terrasse Dufferin on the riverfront stages this invigoratingly fast, triple-chute toboggan run all winter long, weather conditions permitting. Toboggans accommodating up to four people are available for rent at the bottom; buy tickets at the Au 1884 kiosk, then grab your toboggan, walk up to the top and let 'er rip.

oCorridor du Littoral/Promenade Samuel-de-ChamplainRECREATION PATH

( GOOGLE MAP ; c)

Starting southwest of Québec City at Cap-Rouge and extending northeast via the Old Lower Town to Montmorency Falls, the Corridor du Littoral is a 48km multipurpose recreation path along the St Lawrence River, popular with cyclists, walkers and inline skaters. The heart of the path is the Promenade Samuel-de-Champlain, an especially beautiful 2.5km section constructed for Québec’s 400th anniversary celebrations, lined with sculptures, sports fields and green space, with a cafe and a 25m observation tower at Quai des Cageux.

oPlace d’Youville Skating RinkSKATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-641-6256; just outside Porte St-Jean; skating free, skate rentals $8; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri-Sun mid-Oct–mid-Mar; c)

In the shadow of the old town walls, this improvised outdoor rink is one of the most scenic and popular places for ice-skating once winter rolls around. It’s a great place to mingle with locals, and you can also rent skates onsite.

Anneau de Glace des Plaines d'AbrahamSKATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-609-1310; Plaines d'Abraham, west of Musée des Beaux-Arts; skating free, skate rental per 2hr $8; h10am-10pm Christmas–mid-Mar; c)

With a circumference of 400 meters, this giant open-air skating rink on the Plains of Abraham offers free skating all winter, including illuminated night skating, skate rentals, and a snack shack selling hot chocolate to keep you nice and toasty.

Abraham’s Bus TourGUIDED TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/youth/child incl Plains of Abraham Museum & Martello Tower 1 $15/11/5; hseveral departures daily Jul-early Sep)

During the summer months, this 40-minute bus tour makes an entertaining way to get your bearings at Battlefields Park. An actor in period costume points out historical sites of interest and throws in some colorful asides. It departs from the Plains of Abraham Information & Reception Centre, the main gateway to Battlefields Park, which also houses the Musée des Plaines d'Abraham. Admission to the museum and nearby Martello Tower is included with your bus ticket.

Cyclo ServicesCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-4052, 877-692-4050; www.cycloservices.net; 289 Rue St-Paul; rental per 2/24hr from $15/35; h8:30am-7pm May-Oct, variable hours Nov-Apr; c)

This outfit rents a wide variety of bikes (hybrid, city, tandem, road and kids' bikes) and organizes excellent cycling tours of the city and outskirts to places such as Wendake or Parc de la Chute Montmorency. The knowledgeable and fun guides frequently give tours in English. In winter, it rents snowshoes only, and hours are limited; call ahead.

Lévis FerryFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.traversiers.gouv.qc.ca; 10 Rue des Traversiers; round-trip adult/child $6.70/4.60)

For city views, you can’t beat the 10-minute ferry ride to Lévis; boats operate from 6:30am to 2am, departing every 30 to 60 minutes. If you purchase a round-trip ticket, you can remain on the boat for the return journey; there’s usually a 20-minute layover in Lévis.

Croisières AMLCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-856-6668; www.croisieresaml.com; Quai Chouinard, 10 Rue Dalhousie)

Enjoy fantastic city perspectives from AML’s small vessels, including the classic sightseeing trip along the St Lawrence River (adult/child $35/20) and a brunch cruise (adult/child $53/31), each 90 minutes in length. Four-hour summer evening cruises (adult/child $49/29) culminate in August with five-course dinner and fireworks cruises during the Grands Feux Loto-Québec festival (adult/child $125/100).

Running RoomRUNNING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-2345; www.runningroom.com; 1049 Ave Cartier; h 6pm Wed, 8:30am Sun)

This Alberta-based athletic shoe chain offers free employee-led group runs on Wednesday afternoons and Sunday mornings. Just meet at the store. Its website also offers downloadable maps of Québec City running routes ranging from 3km to 20km in length.

Parc National de la Jacques-CartierOUTDOORS

(www.sepaq.com/pq/jac;  adult/child $7.50/3.25)

The mountain and river scenery is picture-perfect at this national park straddling a glacial valley about 40km north of Québec City via Rte 175. There’s a range of snowshoeing and cross-country skiing circuits here, from easy to difficult, and in summer there’s excellent hiking, mountain biking and boating.

Vélopiste Jacques-Cartier/PortneufCYCLING

(www.velopistejcp.com)

Formerly a railway line linking St-Gabriel-de-Valcartier and Rivière-à-Pierre, this 68km cycling trail winds its way through verdant country scenery. It’s linked to downtown Québec City by another rails-to-trails project, the 22km Corridor des Cheminots. (Incidentally, cyclists can also reach this trail by train from Montréal; VIA Rail offers thrice-weekly service from Montréal to Rivière-à-Pierre, the trail’s western terminus).

Village Vacances ValcartierSNOW SPORTS

(%418-844-2200, 888-384-5524; www.valcartier.com; 1860 Blvd Valcartier, St-Gabriel-de-Valcartier; c)

Kids and adults alike love this year-round adventure park 25 minutes north of Québec City. In winter, hurtle down America's largest collection of groomed ice slides in inner tubes and inflatable rafts at speeds approaching 80km/h. A 1km-long skating path and a kids' play area complete with maze and ice castle offer alternatives for younger or less adrenaline-obsessed visitors. In summer, it converts to an enormous water park. Take Hwy 73 north and exit at St-Émile/La Faune.

Expeditions Nouvelle VagueRAFTING

(%418-520-7238; www.expeditionsnouvellevague.com; 246 5e Ave, St-Gabriel-de-Valcartier; rafting trips $24-109, 1-/2-day kayaking course from $99/179; c)

For close-to-nature excitement less than an hour north of Québec City, head off on a guided rafting trip down the Jacques Cartier River. This outfit offers a broad range of rafting experiences, from the family-friendly two-hour Mini-Rafting (ages 3 and up) – an ultra-low-key option that offers time for kids to splash in the river – to full-on, adrenaline-packed three- to seven-hour whitewater adventures in Class III, IV and (sometimes) V water. Group and private kayaking lessons are also offered.

Le Train Léger de CharlevoixTRAIN TOUR

(%418-240-4124; reseaucharlevoix.com; Montmorency–Baie St-Paul round-trip adult/child $75/38; hWed-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct)

Five days a week in summer, this light-rail train travels along a scenic stretch of the St Lawrence River, starting at Parc de la Chute Montmorency (just east of Québec City) and running northeast to the artists' enclave of Baie St-Paul. You can change trains in Baie St-Paul to continue downriver as far as La Malbaie, 140km northeast of Québec City. An extra $5 one-way gets you a guaranteed seat on the river side of the train.

In winter, there's also train service five times daily from Baie St-Paul to the Massif de Charlevoix ski area ($20 round trip for adults, $10 for children).

Le Massif de CharlevoixSKIING

(www.lemassif.com; 1350 Rue Principale, Petite-Rivière-St-François; lift ticket adult/youth/child $75/54/37, luge adult/youth $40/36; hmid-Nov–Apr)

Serious skiers should consider making the trek 80km northeast of Québec City to this well-regarded ski resort, which has eastern Canada’s highest vertical drop and routinely gets more snow than other slopes in the region. In addition to standard skiing and snowboarding, the resort also features a rip-roaring 7.5km groomed luge run, which takes you down the mountain at speeds approaching 50km per hour (minimum age 10).

Mont-Ste-AnneSKIING

(%418-827-4561, 888-827-4579; www.mont-sainte-anne.com; 2000 Blvd du Beau Pré, Beaupré; hlate Nov–Apr)

This hugely popular ski resort 45km northeast of Québec City has 71 ski trails, 20 of which are set aside for night skiing (from 4pm to 9pm Wednesday through Saturday). You’ll find all sorts of other winter activities here, including cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, skating, ice canyoning and dogsledding. You can rent skis and snowboards too.

Station Touristique StonehamSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-463-6888; www.ski-stoneham.com; 600 Chemin du Hibou, Stoneham-et-Tewkesbury; lift ticket adult/youth/child $59/44/28; hDec–mid-Apr)

Smaller than Mont-Ste-Anne but only 30km north of Québec City, Stoneham has 42 slopes for downhill skiing and snowboarding. Its 19 night skiing runs are usually open until around mid-March. Take Hwy 73 north to the Stoneham exit.

REVIVING QUéBEC CITY'S LOST HOCKEY IDENTITY

Until 1995, Québec’s National Hockey League (NHL) team, the Nordiques, was the sports sensation in town and the city laughed with the team’s every success and cried at its every defeat. When rumors began to circulate that the team would be moved, protests were launched and gallons of ink spilled, but the franchise left town anyway. Pretty much any Quebecer you talk to will say that the loss of the city’s hockey team was their saddest day in sport. But there was also province-wide outrage, as the move put an end to one of the most infamous sports rivalries – between the Nordiques and the Montréal Canadiens. It was especially wrenching as pretty much every hockey fan felt the Nordiques’ time had come and that they were on their way to Stanley Cup glory. And win they did. Exactly a year after they moved, the ex-Nordiques, now Colorado Avalanche, took home the 1996 trophy.

In 2015, Québec City took a giant step towards reviving its big-league hockey dreams. The city's brand new $400 million, 18,500-seat Amphithéâtre (also known as the Québecor Arena) was officially opened in fall 2015, in hopes of luring an NHL franchise back this way (and possibly hosting a future Winter Olympics). For the moment, fans content themselves with supporting the Québec Remparts (remparts.ca/eng), who play in the Québec Major Junior Hockey League.

4Sleeping

From old-fashioned B&Bs to stylish boutique hotels, Québec City has some fantastic overnight options. The best choices are the numerous small European-style hotels and Victorian B&Bs scattered around the Old Town. As you’d expect in such a popular city, the top choices are often full, so make reservations well in advance, especially for weekends. It’s unwise to show up in the city on a Saturday morning in summer or during holidays and expect to find a room for the same night.

PRACTICAL TIP

NEED TO KNOW: ACCOMMODATIONS

Accommodations prices rise in the high-season summer months and during Winter Carnival. At other times, you can usually save 30% or so off the high-season prices.

Budget accommodations also fill up quickly during the high season – with student groups block-booking entire hostels. If you’re in a bind, student dorms are available to travelers during the summer at Université Laval (%418-656-5632; www.residences.ulaval.ca/hebergement_hotelier; 2255 Rue de l'Université Laval, Pavillon Alphonse-Marie-Parent, local 1604; s $53-59, d $69-76). Located in the borough of Ste-Foy-Sillery, about a 15- to 20-minute bus ride away from the Old Town, rooms are clean but very plain and have shared baths.

Outlying motels are concentrated primarily in three areas. The first, Beauport, is just a 12-minute drive northeast of the city. To get there, go north along Ave Dufferin, then take Hwy 440 until the exit for Blvd Ste-Anne/Rte 138. The motels are on a stretch between the 500 and 1200 blocks. A second area is located west of the center on Blvd Wilfrid-Hamel (Rte 138) – head west on Hwy 440 to the Henri IV exit. The third area is Blvd Laurier in the borough of Ste-Foy-Sillery. To get there, follow Grande Allée west until it turns into Blvd Laurier.

City buses run to these areas, so whether you have a car or not, they may be the answer if you find everything booked up downtown. The further out you go, the more the prices drop. However, prices are still generally higher than usual for motels, averaging upwards of $100 in high season.

A couple more caveats: first, many guesthouses in the Old Town simply do not have elevators; be sure to inquire on the room location if you’re packing a lot of luggage and not keen on walking up a few flights of stairs. Secondly, a minimum stay (usually of two nights) may be required at some places in the height of summer. This is particularly true if arriving on the weekend.

4Old Upper Town

This area has the widest choice of accommodations in town, from hostels and family-run B&Bs to cheap little hotels, intimate, luxurious inns and the granddaddy of them all – the Château Frontenac.

HI Auberge Internationale de QuébecHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-694-0950, 418-694-0755; www.aubergeinternationaledequebec.com; 19 Rue Ste-Ursule; dm $29-34, r without bath $72-84, with bath $100-125, all incl breakfast; aiW)

The frustrating labyrinth of corridors goes on forever, but this lively, well-located place heaves with energy year-round. It attracts a mix of independent travelers, families and groups. Staff are friendly but often harried just trying to keep up with all the comings and goings. It’s usually full in summer, despite having almost 300 beds, so book ahead if you can.

Auberge de la PaixHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0735; www.aubergedelapaix.com; 31 Rue Couillard; dm $29-32, d/tr $80/105, all incl breakfast; iW)

With welcoming staff, cheerfully painted rooms and a tree-filled garden out back, this funky old-school hostel on a quiet back street feels less institutional than the official HI hostel nearby. Four- to eight-bed dorms are complemented by five coveted private rooms (with shared bath) that must be booked well in advance. Bedding and a continental breakfast are included in the price.

oLa Marquise de BassanoB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-692-0316, 418-692-0316; www.marquisedebassano.com; 15 Rue des Grisons; r incl breakfast $110-179; piW)

The young, gregarious owners have done a beautiful job with this welcoming 19th-century Victorian family home, outfitting its five rooms with thoughtful touches, whether it’s a canopy bed or a claw-foot bathtub. It's peacefully placed on a low-traffic street surrounded by period homes, minutes from the important sights. Only two rooms have private baths; the other three share facilities.

Breakfast includes fresh croissants and pastries, meats, hard-boiled eggs, cheese and fruit. Parking nearby, including two spaces just outside the hotel, costs $16 to $22 per night.

Château Fleur-de-LysHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-1884, 877-691-1884; www.lhotel.ca; 15 Ave Ste-Geneviève; d $109-209, q $254; W)

Delightfully sited opposite the leafy Jardins des Gouverneurs, this rambling old home has rooms of various dimensions outfitted with hand-chosen antiques by new European owners Romuald and Olivier. Top picks include the spacious Governor's Suite overlooking Château Frontenac and the St Lawrence River, and the two chambres d'amis, snug, budget-priced cuties with interior sink and private bath down the hall.

Rooms on the 2nd floor get more natural light than those on the 1st and 3rd floors or the family rooms in the basement. Optional breakfast costs $10 per person.

oLes Lofts 1048APARTMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-657-9177; www.condovieuxquebec.ca; 1048 Rue St-Jean; apt $170-250; aW)

For a welcoming pied-à-terre in the heart of the Old Upper Town, try these gorgeously refurbished, bright, high-ceilinged apartments. Comfortable bedding, full kitchens, ultra-modern bathrooms and laundry facilities make each loft a cozy home away from home. Nearby, the same owner offers the lower-priced Le Haute Ville ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-657-9177; www.hotelvieuxquebec.ca; 138 Rue Ste-Anne; studio $80-110, apt $110-165; aW) apartments and the spiffy new Lofts St-Joseph ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-431-9905; www.st-joseph.quebec; 764 Rue St-Joseph; apt $170-250; aW) in St-Roch.

Maison du FortB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-4375, 888-203-4375; hotelmaisondufort.com; 21 Ave Ste-Geneviève; r $139-199; aW)

This B&B in a tranquil neighborhood above Château Frontenac lacks significant common areas, yet long-time owner Marielle's old-fashioned hospitality makes guests feel instantly at home. Cat lovers will adore friendly house feline Oscar, along with the faux Old Masters cat paintings, wood floors, stone and/or brick walls in many rooms. Spacious corner rooms 6 and 10 are especially inviting.

Manoir d’AuteuilB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-1173, 866-662-6647; www.manoirdauteuil.com; 49 Rue d’Auteuil; r $99-229, junior ste $289-329; paiW)

Friendly American expatriate owners Dan and Linda have thoroughly renovated this pair of 19th-century manor houses opposite the Old Town walls, creating a supremely comfortable hotel replete with modern amenities. Rooms range widely in size; the nicest offer high ceilings, stone walls, fireplaces and canopy beds, or, in the case of the Edith Piaf suite, an ultra-spacious blue-tiled bath.

A pair of pretty high-ceilinged breakfast rooms and an outdoor terrace add to the charm.

Manoir sur le CapINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-1987, 866-694-1987; www.manoir-sur-le-cap.com; 9 Ave Ste-Geneviève; r $85-185, ste $150-240; paW)

Attractions at this 14-room hotel include the wonderful, quiet location away from the tourist throngs, and the architectural details of the better rooms: attractive stone or brick walls and views of the Jardin des Gouverneurs, the Château or the river. On the downside, some of the smaller rooms have dated furnishings, and the desk staff's attitude is often lackadaisical.

Limited parking is available on-site on weekends; otherwise you can park at nearby garages ($15 to $22).

Chez HubertB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-0958; www.chezhubert.com; 66 Rue Ste-Ursule; r without bath incl breakfast $80-155; piW)

This dependable family-run choice is in a Victorian townhouse with chandeliers, fireplace mantels, stained-glass windows, a lovely curved staircase and oriental rugs. The three tasteful, warm-hued rooms, two with a view of the Château, all share a pair of baths and come with a large buffet breakfast and free parking.

Au Petit HôtelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-0965; www3.sympatico.ca/aupetithotel/home; 3 Ruelle des Ursulines; r $75-150; aW)

Sitting on a tranquil dead-end lane, this former rooming house has a range of clean, simply furnished rooms, each with a private bath. Some are small and rather drab, while others are airy and borderline charming. Twelve of the 15 rooms have air-conditioning. Overall, it’s good value for the Old Town, and parking right next door costs only $8.

Fairmont Le Château FrontenacHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-540-4460, 418-692-3861; www.fairmont.com/frontenac; 1 Rue des Carrières; r $229-1149, ste $408-2699; paW)

More than a hotel, the iconic Frontenac is one of Québec City's enduring symbols. Fresh off a 2014 makeover, its 611 rooms come in a dozen-plus categories. The coveted river-view rooms range in price from Deluxe units tucked under the 18th-floor eaves to the ultra-spacious Fairmont Gold Signature rooms, with concierge service, curved turret windows and vintage architectural details.

The hotel has over 2000 windows, a variety of elegant salons, bars and restaurants, and 12km of corridors lined with photos of famous guests including Alfred Hitchcock and Paul McCartney. Service is professional and staff are adept at handling the big crowds. While some guests enjoy connecting with a little slice of Québec City history, others feel the grand dame doesn’t quite live up to its storied reputation. Check the website for special deals, especially outside the peak summer and Winter Carnival seasons.

Auberge Place d’ArmesINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-9485, 866-333-9485; www.aubergeplacedarmes.com; 24 Rue Ste-Anne; r $170-269, ste $260-349; iW#)

Housed in a pair of 17th- and 18th-century buildings in the heart of the Old Upper Town, this cozy inn has some of the most dapper rooms around town. Halls and guest rooms are done up in rich crimsons, navy blues and golds, and many rooms have exposed red-brick walls. The funicular to Lower Town is only a few paces away.

This place is also pet-friendly – for $25 extra per night, Fido can sleep right beside you!

Le Clos Saint-LouisINN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-461-1311, 418-694-1311; www.clossaintlouis.com; 69 Rue St-Louis; r incl breakfast $199-315; aW)

At this four-star boutique hotel between Porte St-Louis and Château Frontenac, the owners have retained the building’s natural 1844 Victorian charm while adding modern amenities. Most of the 18 spacious, lavishly decorated rooms come with Jacuzzi tubs, beautifully tiled baths, and canopy or four-poster beds. The suites resemble Victorian apartments, apart from the TV in the mini-drawing room.

QUéBEC’S COOLEST HOTEL

Visiting the Ice Hotel (Hôtel de Glace; %418-875-4522, 877-505-0423; www.hoteldeglace-canada.com; 143 Rte Duchesnay; r from $380) is like stepping into a wintry fairy tale. Nearly everything here is made of ice: the reception desk, the sink in your room, your bed – all ice.

Some 500 tons of ice and 15,000 tons of snow go into the five-week construction of this perishable hotel. First impressions are overwhelming – in the entrance hall, tall, sculpted columns of ice support a ceiling where a crystal chandelier hangs. To either side, carved sculptures, tables and chairs fill the labyrinth of corridors and guest rooms. Children will love the ice slides, while grown-ups gravitate to the ice bar, where stiff drinks are served in cocktail glasses made of ice (there’s hot chocolate for the kids too).

The Ice Hotel usually opens from January to March and offers packages starting at $380 per double. Sleeping here is more about the adventure, and less about getting a good night's sleep, although thick sleeping bags laid on plush deer pelts do help keep things cozier than you might expect.

A better option for most people is to buy a day pass (adult/youth/child $18/16/9), which allows you to visit the guest rooms and all of the hotel's public spaces, including the ice bar and ice slides. After 8pm, an evening pass (adult/youth/child $14/12.50/7) offers access to public spaces only. The hotel is about 15 minutes north of Québec City, via Hwy 175 and Hwy 73. Take exit 154 (Rue de la Faune) off Hwy 73 and follow the signs.

4Old Lower Town

A cluster of the city's most tantalizing boutique hotels is found in this area, along with a handful of hip, small inns.

Hôtel BelleyHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-692-1694, 418-692-1694; www.hotelbelley.com; 249 Rue St-Paul; r $125-170; aW)

A great place for the young and hip who still like their creature comforts, this personable eight-room hotel offers spacious, uniquely designed rooms with original details including brick walls, wood paneling and beamed ceilings. You might also find French doors, a claw-foot tub – or, on the downside, a very tiny bath. Many rooms include microwave ovens or small refrigerators.

oAuberge Saint-AntoineBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-692-2211, 418-692-2211; www.saint-antoine.com; 8 Rue St-Antoine; r $189-549, ste $600-1000; paiW)

Auberge Saint-Antoine is one of Canada's finest hotels, with phenomenal service and endless amenities. The plush, spacious rooms come with high-end mattresses, goose-down duvets, luxury linens and atmospheric lighting, while the halls resemble an art gallery, filled with French colonial relics discovered during excavations to expand the hotel. Panache, the darling of Québec’s fine-dining scene, is located next door.

Hôtel Le Germain-DominionBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-833-5253, 418-692-2224; www.germaindominion.com; 126 Rue St-Pierre; r $199-335; paiW)

The flagship hotel of a classy Québécois chain, the Dominion combines understated luxury with superb service. It occupies two adjacent historic buildings, one a former bank, one a historic fruit-and-vegetable market. Rooms are quiet, cozy and tastefully designed, with sumptuous mattresses, Egyptian cotton bedding, fluffy towels and bathrobes, good lighting, big windows, attractive woodwork, and glow-in-the-dark bath sinks.

Dogs get first-class treatment too; the $30-per-stay fee gets you a doggie bed, plus food and water bowls.

Hôtel Le PrioriBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-3992; www.hotellepriori.com; 15 Rue Sault-au-Matelot; r $135-239, ste $229-399)

Housed in the high-ceilinged former workshop of the renowned Baillargé family of architects, the Lower Town's original boutique hotel offers 20 rooms and eight suites with tall windows, exposed brick and stone walls, stylish Italian and Québecois furniture, and other classy amenities. The attached restaurant Toast! is one of Québec City's finest, and the Lower Town location couldn't be better.

Le Saint-PierreBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-7981, 888-268-1017; www.auberge.qc.ca; 79 Rue St-Pierre; r $145-295, ste $215-365)

Fresh off a 2013 makeover, this refined but relaxed boutique hotel has comfy rooms in soothing shades of white, beige and gray, most with hardwood floors and brick or stone walls, plus St Lawrence River views from the 4th floor. Inviting touches include the fireplace and leather chairs in the cozy downstairs lounge, and the ample included breakfast.

Hôtel des CoutellierHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-9696, 888-523-9696; www.hoteldescoutellier.com; 253 Rue St-Paul; r $162-253, ste $277-358; aiW)

Convenient to the train station, this handsome small hotel offers style, comfort and friendly service. Refreshingly unpretentious rooms are bright and spacious with modern furnishings (flat-screen TVs, iPod docks and high-end coffeemakers). A tasty continental breakfast is packed up in a wicker basket for you every morning and hung outside your door.

Hôtel 71BOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-692-1171, 418-692-1171; www.hotel71.ca; 71 Rue St-Pierre; r $179-329, ste $259-409; aiW)

Set in an imposing 19th-century greystone building, Hôtel 71 provides a boutique experience par excellence. Sleek, minimalist rooms offer unstinting comfort, with fantastic mattresses, plush down comforters, 4m-high ceilings, oversized TVs and dramatically lit baths. The penthouse suite, with its wraparound windows, commands some of Quebec City's most astounding perspectives on Place-Royale, the St Lawrence River and the Château Frontenac.

THE WONDROUS BACKYARD OF QUéBEC CITY

Québec City is surrounded by stunning countryside with attractions for every interest. The sights below, except for Wendake, can be reached via Rte 138 northeast of town.

Île d’Orléans

This stunning place can be visited on a day trip but is easily worth two days or more. Cut off from the rest of Québec for centuries (the Taschereau Bridge was only built in 1935), its attractions include gorgeous pastoral scenery, riverside villages and 300-year-old stone homes.

Maison Drouin (%418-829-0330; www.fondationfrancoislamy.org; 4700 Chemin Royal, Sainte-Famille; admission $4; h10am-6pm daily mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Sep–mid-Oct), a 1730 house, is fascinating as it was never modernized (ie no electricity or running water) even though it was inhabited until 1984. Guides in period dress run tours in summer. At Parc Maritime de St-Laurent (%418-828-9673; www.parcmaritime.ca; 120 Chemin de la Chalouperie, St-Laurent; adult/youth/child $5/3/free; h10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Oct) you can learn about the island’s ship-building history and enjoy pretty views of the St Lawrence River. There’s a tourist office (%418-828-9411, 866-941-9411; www.tourisme.iledorleans.com; 490 Côte du Pont, St-Pierre; h8:30am-6pm early Jun-early Sep, 9am-4:30pm rest of year) just after you cross the bridge onto the island, about a 15-minute drive northeast of Québec City.

Parc de la Chute Montmorency

This 83m-high waterfall is right by the Taschereau Bridge on the way to Île d’Orléans. While it tops Niagara Falls by about 30m, it’s not nearly as wide, but what’s cool is walking over the falls on the suspension bridge, with the water thundering below. The park (%418-663-3330; www.sepaq.com/montmorencyfalls; 5300 Boulevard Sainte-Anne) is about 12km northeast of Québec City.

Wendake

The major attraction at this Huron Aboriginal reserve is the Onhoúa Chetek8e (%418-842-4308; www.huron-wendat.qc.ca; 575 Rue Chef Stanislas Koska; 2hr guided tour adult/youth/child $13.50/10.25/8.25; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr; c), a reconstructed Huron village. Guides explain Huron history, culture and daily life. It's about 20 minutes northwest of Québec City; by car, take Hwy 73 (exit 154)

Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré

About 35km from Québec City, this village is known for its Goliath-sized Basilique Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré (www.sanctuairesainteanne.org; 10018 Ave Royale; h8:30am-4:30pm) and its role as a shrine. Try to visit on July 26, Ste-Anne’s feast day, when the place goes berserk. The church fills to capacity, the nearby camping grounds are swamped with pilgrims, hotels are booked full and the whole village starts feeling like a kind of religious Woodstock.

4St-Jean Baptiste

Accommodations here mean you’ll be rubbing elbows with locals more than you would in the Old Town.

Au Croissant de LuneB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-522-6366; www.aucroissantdelune.com; 594 Rue St-Gabriel; r without bath $85-125, incl breakfast; W)

Patricia, Olivier and their two young children offer three comfortable rooms with shared bath at this unpretentious family-friendly B&B. Easily the most charming is the two-level Green Room, with its main bedroom under the eaves and a kid-friendly smaller room downstairs. The full included breakfast, featuring homemade yogurt, fresh fruit, waffles and/or French-style crepes, is another plus.

Le Château du FaubourgB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-524-2902; www.lechateaudufaubourg.com; 429 Rue St-Jean; r $129-169; paW)

Built by the massively rich Imperial Tobacco family in the 1800s, this is one of the city’s most atmospheric B&Bs. The interior is pure British-Lord-of-the-Manor meets French-Marquis style, replete with old oil paintings, antique furnishings and shimmering chandeliers. While some rooms are packed with old-world details, others seem a little cramped (notably the Boudoir du Josephine in the attic).

Auberge JA MoisanB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-529-9764; www.jamoisan.com; 695 Rue St-Jean; s $120-150, d $130-160; paW)

This lovely top-floor B&B sits above the famous JA Moisan grocery store. Bedrooms are small and tucked under the eaves, while the floor below holds a cluster of common areas, including a parlor, tea room, solarium, terrace and computer room. Gregarious host Clément St-Laurent makes guests feel right at home, and rates include breakfast, afternoon tea and free valet parking.

Château des TourellesB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-647-9136, 866-346-9136; www.chateaudestourelles.qc.ca; 212 Rue St-Jean; r incl breakfast $99-179, ste $139-245; W)

You'll recognize this B&B by its soaring turret, just west of Rue St-Jean's main cluster of shops and eateries. The new Breton owners have completely refurbished this old house, equipping rooms with pretty wood floors, triple-paned windows, old-fashioned sinks and hi-def TV; other perks include the bright, cozy breakfast area and lounge, and the rooftop terrace with 360-degree city views.

The eight standard rooms in the main building are complemented by a pair of kitchenette-equipped studios and a comfortable suite with its own private terrace and Jacuzzi.

L’Hôtel du CapitoleHISTORIC HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-4040, 800-363-4040; www.lecapitole.com; 972 Rue St-Jean; r $155-305; paW)

Directly above the stately Théâtre Capitole, this well-located hotel features rooms of varying size and character; the most attractive units feature exposed brick, floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies overlooking the old city walls and/or velvety red furniture with a touch of old-fashioned theatricality. Staff generally earn high marks for service. There's reasonably priced parking at the public garage across the street.

PRACTICAL TIP

PARKING

Compact Old Québec lends itself better to exploration on foot than by car. If you’re driving up here, plan to park your vehicle for as much of your stay as possible.

Parking garages in and around the Old Town typically charge a day rate of $16 to $20 Monday to Friday, and $8 to $12 on weekends. In the Old Upper Town, the most central garage, and one of the cheapest, is underneath the Hôtel de Ville ( GOOGLE MAP ), just a couple of blocks from the Château Frontenac. In the Old Lower Town, there are a couple of convenient lots along Rue Dalhousie. Metered street parking is also widely available, but expensive ($2 per hour). Many guesthouses provide discount vouchers for nearby parking garages.

In winter, nighttime snow removal is scheduled on many streets between 11pm and 6:30am. Don’t park during these hours on any street with a ‘déneigement’ (snow removal) sign and a flashing red light, or you’ll wake up to a towed vehicle and a hefty fine!

4Montcalm & Colline Parlementaire

Relais Charles-AlexandreHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-523-1220; www.relaischarlesalexandre.com; 91 Grande Allée Est; r $99-144; paW)

This small, cozy hotel has a great location near the Musée National des Beaux-Arts and Battlefields Park. Rooms are all different and are best described as low-key and comfortable with modern furnishings. Standard rooms are bright, but with a view onto the parking lot. Some superior rooms have big bay windows and fireplaces. Parking just behind the hotel costs $9 extra.

Auberge du QuartierHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-525-9726, 800-782-9441; www.aubergeduquartier.com; 170 Grande Allée Ouest; r $129-189; paiW)

Around the corner from restaurant-lined Ave Cartier, this friendly (and gay-friendly) hotel offers sleek modern rooms and professional service. Rooms range in size from small and modestly furnished to spacious numbers with nice extras, such as a fireplace. They’re done up in masculine tones with rich burgundies, exposed steel beams or original brickwork adding to the atmosphere.

4St-Roch

Steeply downhill about 1km from the walled city, St-Roch is a less convenient base than other neighborhoods, although the ascenseur (a free elevator connecting St-Roch and St-Jean Baptiste) eliminates part of the climb.

Hôtel Le VincentBOUTIQUE HOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-523-5000; www.hotellevincent.com; 295 Rue St-Vallier Est; r incl breakfast $199-279; piW)

This hotel’s nondescript brick facade may look unpromising, but things improve dramatically once you step inside. The lobby and adjacent stone-walled breakfast area, with their comfy furniture and pleasant fireside reading nook, are instantly inviting, while the rooms upstairs, especially corner suites No 4 and 8, are stylishly comfortable, with brick walls, tall windows, mod couches and sleek bathtubs.

Quintuple-paned windows keep out the street noise. All rooms have plasma TVs with DVD players, ideal for taking advantage of the sizable video library at the front desk.

Québec City Top Five

Québec City’s historic architecture, dramatic setting and French-Canadian flair make it one of North America’s most irresistible destinations. The city's simple charms – strolling atop the old town walls or indulging in classic boulangeries and bistros – are accessible year-round. Here are five don’t-miss attractions that will make your visit especially memorable.

Quartier Petit-Champlain

Centerpiece of Québec City’s 17th- century Old Lower Town, narrow Rue du Petit-Champlain is most picturesque when seen from the steep heights of Escalier Casse-Cou (Break-Neck Stairs) or from Québec’s cliff-hugging funicular. Turn the corner to discover Place-Royale, the city's original square, and the Fresque des Québecois, a whimsical mural featuring Samuel de Champlain and other historical figures.

Rue du Petit-ChamplainDOUG MCKINLAY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Château Frontenac

The crowning jewel in Québec City’s harmonious collection of architectural treasures, this 19th-century hotel is magnetically attractive inside and out. Admire it from the boardwalk below, or grab a seat inside the hotel bar for sweeping river views.

Le Château FrontenacKLAUS LANG/GETTY IMAGES ©

La Citadelle

Straddling the Plains of Abraham, where France’s New World fortunes took a dramatic downhill turn, this star-shaped fort provides stunning Old Town perspectives and a perfect backdrop for understanding Québec's history.

Winter Fun

You haven’t really seen Québec City until you’ve toured the ice sculptures and fur-lined beds of the Ice Hotel or paraded through the streets with Bonhomme de Carnaval, the friendly snowman and official mascot of Québec’s Winter Carnival.

Ice slide, Carnaval de QuébecALAN MARSH / GETTY IMAGES ©

Summer Festivals

Summertime in Québec City is a never-ending party, with street performers on the Terrasse Dufferin, spectacular fireworks displays, and open-air concerts in the city's magnificent parks.

Understand Montréal & Québec City

Montréal Today

As Montréal anticipates its 375th birthday, the city is coming into its own and building boldly towards the future.

History

Montréal's fascinating backstory stretches from early fur trading days to its modern incarnation as French Canada's most vibrant metropolis.

People & Culture

From language to fashion to hockey, Montréal exhibits a unique cultural flair that's unparalleled elsewhere in North America.

Music & The Arts

Creative to its core, Montréal has a burgeoning film industry, world-class festivals and a solid public commitment to the arts.

Architecture

Montréal has plenty of architectural icons to feast your eyes on, from 19th-century Basilique Notre-Dame to its colorful Victorian mansions.

Québec City History & Culture

How did a decisive battle between the French and British shape the future of Canada?

Montréal Today

With the approach of its 375th anniversary in 2017, Montréal is preparing to strut its stuff for an international audience. Numerous urban redevelopment projects are underway, including new recreation and performing arts venues, pedestrian-friendly public spaces, and revamped infrastructure. There's also a new energy in Montréal politics, as first-term mayor Denis Coderre strives to heal past scars from partisanship and corruption.

Best on Film

The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz (1974) Mordecai Richler’s timeless story of a Jewish upbringing.

Jesus of Montreal (1989) A prizewinning take on Montreal and Catholicism.

Incendies (2010) Two siblings confront the mystery of their mother’s past.

Funkytown (2011) Bilingual film set against the backdrop of Montréal's 1970s club scene and the burgeoning secession movement.

Best in Print

Two Solitudes (Hugh MacLennan; 1945) One man’s struggles with his English- and French-Canadian background.

The Tin Flute (Gabrielle Roy; 1947) A waitress looks for love in the slums of St-Henri.

How to Make Love to a Negro Without Getting Tired (Dany Laferrière; 1985) Provocative début novel from this Haitian-Québecois author.

Barney’s Version (Mordecai Richler; 1997) Richler's acclaimed murder mystery, told by a pair of less-than-reliable narrators.

Gearing Up for a Birthday Bash

Get ready for a big party. Montréal has a triple whammy of anniversary celebrations coming up in 2017: the 375th anniversary of the city's founding, the 150th anniversary of the Canadian Confederation and the 50th anniversary of Expo '67, the World's Fair that focused major international attention on Montréal back in 1967. Perhaps the biggest promoter of the 2017 festivities is Montréal's new mayor Denis Coderre, whose efforts have included a personal visit to the Vatican to invite Pope Francis to attend!

To mark the occasion, Montréal has unveiled an ambitious series of projects designed to spur economic growth, improve locals' quality of life and attract visitors by showcasing the city's rich history, cultural diversity and artistic creativity.

History takes center stage on the brand-new Promenade Urbaine Fleuve-Montagne, a pedestrian route connecting the St Lawrence River and the slopes of Mont-Royal. Plaques along the route will invite both locals and visitors to contemplate the impact of geography in shaping Montréal's history and culture.

Other initiatives invite visitors to get out and explore the city's outdoor spaces. A brand new open-air rink at Esplanade Clark will welcome skaters in winter and double as a public square in summer. Across the river, Parc Jean-Drapeau is getting spruced up with a panoramic riverside promenade and a new amphitheatre on Île Ste-Hélène designed to host major shows and festivals year-round. A slew of other new construction is in the works Click here.

As always, Montréal loves any excuse for a good party, so you can expect to see a full lineup of events emerging as the date draws near; see the official 375th anniversary website (www.375mtl.com) for details.

Liveable City

In business and industry, Montréal does well for itself, boasting the highest number of research centers in Canada, an impressive high-tech sector and the third-largest fashion industry in North America (after New York and Los Angeles). While overall the cost of living here is low compared to most Canadian cities, and home prices remain about 40% to 50% cheaper than in Toronto or Vancouver, Montréal has seen a rapid rise in rental prices over the past few years, and gentrification has become a hot topic. The Plateau used to be the affordable bohemian place to live; now those without cash to pay for ever-increasing rents are being pushed out. Consequently, the creative scene is moving up to Little Italy, Mile End and Park Ex. Other pressing issues are the city’s aging infrastructure, its high unemployment relative to other Canadian cities, and a city government that many see as cumbersomely complex, inefficient and costly. Montrealers also complain about paying the highest taxes of any province in Canada.

In spite of the city’s shortcomings, Montrealers remain proud, citing the city’s burgeoning film and music industries, its vibrant multiculturalism and its rich intellectual life. Not surprisingly, Montréal does quite well in quality-of-life surveys (often ranking well ahead of Paris, Barcelona and San Francisco for instance). A 2015 survey by the Economist rated Montréal as the world's second most liveable city, while Mercer's annual Quality of Living rankings regularly list Montréal among the top 25 cities globally (the city finished 24th in 2015).

A New Era in Politics

At the local level, Montréal is seeking to regain political equilibrium after a turbulent period in 2012-13 that saw major student protests and three changes of mayor within 12 months. Current mayor Denis Coderre, elected in November 2013, came into office on the heels of corruption scandals that spelled the doom of long-time mayor Gérald Tremblay and his immediate successor, Michael Applebaum. The Liberal-leaning Coderre made ethical integrity a cornerstone of his campaign, pledging to appoint an inspector-general for ethics, limit individual campaign donations to $100, and build a coalition government that would mix political newcomers with seasoned politicians from multiple parties. While Coderre barely squeaked into office with 32% of the vote, his populist, non-partisan style and pragmatic initiatives – such as pledging $50 million a year to fix potholes – have earned him widespread approval during the first half of his four-year term.

Meanwhile, at the provincial level, with the Parti Québecois coming off a dispiriting 2014 defeat and Québec's newest political party, Coalition Avenir Québec, joining the Liberals in opposing sovereignty, the question of separatism has moved decisively to the back burner.

History

Originally the home of Iroquois people, Montréal has a dynamic history as a small French colony, a fur-trading center and a base for industrialists who laid the foundation of Canada. Later eclipsed by Toronto, it has rebranded itself as a powerhouse of French-speaking business and culture.

The Early Settlement

The Island of Montréal was long inhabited by the St Lawrence Iroquois, one of the tribes that formed the Five Nations Confederacy of Iroquois. In 1535, French explorer Jacques Cartier visited the Iroquois village of Hochelaga (Place of the Beaver Dam) on the slopes of Mont-Royal, but by the time Samuel de Champlain founded Québec City in 1608, the settlement had vanished. In 1642, Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve founded the first permanent mission, despite fierce resistance by the Iroquois. Intended as a base for converting Aboriginal people to Christianity, this settlement quickly became a major hub of the fur trade. Québec City became the capital of the French colony Nouvelle-France (New France), while Montréal’s voyageurs (trappers) established a network of trading posts into the hinterland.

As part of the Seven Years’ War, Britain clashed with France over its colony in New France. The British victory on the Plains of Abraham outside Québec City heralded the Treaty of Paris (1763), which gave Britain control of New France; it also presaged the creation of Canada itself with Confederation in 1867.

The American army seized Montréal during the American Revolution (1775–83) and set up headquarters at Château Ramezay. But even the formidable negotiating skills of Benjamin Franklin failed to convince French Quebecers to join their cause, and seven months later the revolutionaries decided they’d had enough and left empty-handed.

When Jacques Cartier arrived at the St Lawrence River estuary around the time of the feast of St Lawrence in 1535, he gave thanks by naming it after the early Christian saint. It has had many other names – the River That Walks, the Canada River and the Cod River – but St Lawrence eventually stuck.

Industry & Immigration

In the early 19th century Montréal’s fortunes dimmed as the fur trade shifted north to Hudson Bay. However, a new class of international merchants and financiers soon emerged, founding the Bank of Montréal and investing in shipping as well as a new railway network. Tens of thousands of Irish immigrants came to work on the railways and in the factories, mills and breweries that sprang up along the Canal de Lachine. Canada’s industrial revolution was born, with the English clearly in control.

The Canadian Confederation of 1867 gave Quebecers a degree of control over their social and economic affairs, and acknowledged French as an official language. French Canadians living in the rural areas flowed into the city to seek work and regained the majority. At this time, Montréal was Canada’s premier railway center, financial hub and manufacturing powerhouse. The Canadian Pacific Railway opened its head office there in the 1880s, and Canadian grain bound for Europe was shipped through the port.

In the latter half of the century, a wave of immigrants from Italy, Spain, Germany, Eastern Europe and Russia gave Montréal a cosmopolitan flair that remains unique in the province. By 1914 the metropolitan population exceeded half a million residents, of whom more than 10% were neither British nor French.

In 1940, as Britain struggled against Germany in WWII, Prime Minister Winston Churchill shipped $5 billion in foreign reserves from the Bank of England to Montréal. The fortune was placed in a vault in the Sun Life Building, to fund a British government in exile should the Nazis invade and occupy Britain.

War, Depression & Nationalism

The peace that existed between the French and English citizens ran aground after the outbreak of WWI. When Ottawa introduced the draft in 1917, French-Canadian nationalists condemned it as a plot to reduce the francophone population. The conscription issue resurfaced in WWII, with 80% of Francophones rejecting the draft and nearly as many English-speaking Canadians voting for it.

During the Prohibition era Montréal found a new calling as ‘Sin City’, as hordes of free-spending, pleasure-seeking Americans flooded over the border in search of booze, brothels and betting houses. But with the advent of the Great Depression, the economic inferiority of French Canadians became clearer than ever.

Québec’s nationalists turned inward, developing proposals to create co-operatives, nationalize the anglophone electricity companies and promote French-Canadian goods. Led by the right-wing, ruralist, ultraconservative Maurice Duplessis, the new Union Nationale party took advantage of the nationalist awakening to win provincial power in the 1936 elections. The party’s influence would retard Québec’s industrial and social progress until Duplessis died in 1959.

Irish in Montréal

The Irish have been streaming into Montréal since the founding of New France, but they came in floods between 1815 and 1860, driven from Ireland by the Potato Famine. Catholic like the French settlers, the Irish easily assimilated into Québécois society. Names from this period still encountered today include ‘Aubrey’ or ‘Aubry,’ ‘O’Brinnan’ or ‘O’Brennan,’ and ‘Mainguy’ from ‘McGee.’ In Montréal, most of these immigrants settled in Griffintown, then an industrial hub near the Canal de Lachine. The first St Patrick’s Day parade in the city was held in 1824 and has run every year since; it’s now one of the city’s biggest events. For some terrific reads on the Irish community, check out The Shamrock and the Shield: An Oral History of the Irish in Montreal by Patricia Burns and The Untold Story: The Irish in Canada, edited by Robert O’Driscoll and Lorna Reynolds.

Grand Projects

By the early 1950s, the infrastructure of Montréal, by now with a million-plus inhabitants, badly needed an overhaul. Mayor Jean Drapeau drew up a grand blueprint that would radically alter the face of the city, including the metro, a skyscraper-filled downtown and an underground city. The harbor was extended for the opening of the St Lawrence Seaway.

Along the way Drapeau set about ridding Montréal of its ‘Sin City’ image by cleaning up the shadier districts. His most colorful nemesis was Lili St-Cyr, the Minnesota-born stripper whose affairs with high-ranking politicians, sports stars and thugs were as legendary in the postwar era as her bathtub performances.

The face of Montréal changed dramatically during the 1960s as a forest of skyscrapers shot up. Private developers replaced Victorian-era structures with landmark buildings such as Place Bonaventure, a modern hotel-shopping complex, and the Place des Arts performing arts center. The focus of the city shifted from Old Montréal to Ville-Marie, where commerce flourished.

In 1960, the nationalist Liberal Party won control of the Québec assembly and passed sweeping measures that would shake Canada to its very foundations. In the first stage of this so-called Quiet Revolution, the assembly vastly expanded Québec’s public sector and nationalized the provincial hydroelectric companies.

Francophones were able to work in French because more corporate managers supported French-language working conditions. For instance, the nationalization of power companies saw the language of construction blueprints change from English to French.

Still, progress wasn’t swift enough for radical nationalists, and by the mid-1960s they were claiming that Québec independence was the only way to ensure francophone rights.

As the Francophones seized power, some of the old established anglophone networks became spooked and resettled outside the province. By 1965, Montréal had lost its status as Canada’s economic capital to Toronto. But new expressways were laid out and the metro was finished in time for Expo ‘67 (the 1967 World’s Fair), a runaway success that attracted 50 million visitors. It was the defining moment of Montréal as a metropolis, and would lay the foundations for its successful bid to host the 1976 Olympics – an event that would land the city in serious debt.

Meanwhile, things continued heating up in the Quiet Revolution. To head off clashes with Québec’s increasingly separatist leaders, Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau proposed two key measures in 1969: Canada was to be made fully bilingual to give Francophones equal access to national institutions; and the constitution was to be amended to guarantee francophone rights. Ottawa then pumped cash into French- English projects, which nonetheless failed to convince Francophones that French would become the primary language of work in Québec.

In 1976, this lingering discontent spurred the election of René Lévesque and his Parti Québécois, committed to the goal of independence for the province. The following year the Québec assembly passed Bill 101, which not only made French the sole official language of Québec but also stipulated that all immigrants enroll their children in French-language schools. The trickle of anglophone refugees from the province turned into a flood. Alliance Québec, an English rights group, estimates that between 300,000 and 400,000 Anglos left Québec during this period.

When Mayor Camilien Houde was faced with the proposal of building a road over Mont Royal, he famously retorted, ‘A road over the mountain? Over my dead body!’ After he died, and was duly buried on the side of the mountain, Mayor Jean Drapeau went ahead with the plan and built the aptly named Voie Camilien-Houde.

The Not-Quiet Nation Of Québec

The Quiet Revolution heightened tensions not only in Québec but across Canada. After their re-election in 1980, federal Liberals, led by Pierre Trudeau, sold most Quebecers on the idea of greater rights through constitutional change, helping to defeat a referendum on Québec sovereignty the same year by a comfortable margin. Québec premier Robert Bourassa then agreed to a constitution-led solution – but only if Québec was recognized as a ‘distinct society’ with special rights.

In 1987 the federal Conservative Party was in power and Prime Minister Brian Mulroney unveiled an accord that met most of Québec’s demands. To take effect, the Meech Lake Accord needed ratification by all 10 provinces and both houses of parliament by 1990. Dissenting premiers in three provinces eventually pledged their support, but incredibly the accord collapsed when a single member of Manitoba’s legislature refused to sign.

The failure of the Meech Lake Accord triggered a major political crisis in Québec. The separatists blamed English-speaking Canada for its demise, and Mulroney and Bourassa subsequently drafted the Charlottetown Accord, a new, expanded accord. But the separatists picked it apart, and in October 1992, the second version was trounced in Québec and five other provinces. The rejection sealed the fate of Mulroney, who stepped down as prime minister the following year, and of Bourassa, who left political life a broken man.

Suzanne Takes Your Hand...

Leonard Cohen, one of the city’s most famous sons, grew up in the wealthy Anglo enclave of Westmount, but was drawn to the streets of Downtown and the Old Port. His celebrated 1967 ballad ‘Suzanne’ was based on his experiences with Suzanne Verdal, then wife of sculptor Armand Vaillancourt. Fans have tried to pinpoint the location of the meeting, and the most likely spot is an old waterfront building along Rue de la Commune in the Old Port. The lyrics refer to ‘the lady of the harbor’, which is thought to be the statue atop the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours at 400 Rue St-Paul Est.

Referendum & Rebirth

In the early 1990s Montréal was wracked by political uncertainty and economic decline. No one disputed that the city was ailing as the symptoms were everywhere: corporate offices had closed and moved their headquarters to other parts of Canada, shuttered shops lined downtown streets, and derelict factories and refineries rusted on the perimeter. Relations between Anglophones and Francophones, meanwhile, plumbed new depths after Québec was denied a special status in Canada.

The victory of the separatist Parti Québécois in the 1994 provincial elections signaled the arrival of another crisis. Support for an independent Québec rekindled, and a referendum on sovereignty was called the following year. While it first appeared the referendum would fail by a significant margin, the outcome was a real cliff-hanger: Quebecers decided by 52,000 votes – a razor-thin majority of less than 1% – to stay part of Canada. In Montréal, where the bulk of Québec’s Anglophones and immigrants live, more than two-thirds voted against sovereignty, causing Parti Québécois leader Jacques Parizeau to infamously declare that ‘money and the ethnic vote’ had robbed Québec of its independence.

In the aftermath of the vote, the locomotives of the Quiet Revolution (economic inferiority and linguistic insecurity among Francophones) ran out of steam. Exhausted by decades of separatist wrangling, most Montrealers put aside their differences and went back to work.

Oddly enough, a natural disaster played a key role in bringing the communities together. In 1998 a freak ice storm – some blamed extra-moist El Niño winds, others cited global warming – snapped power masts like matchsticks across the province, leaving over three million people without power and key services in the middle of a Montréal winter. Some people endured weeks without electricity and heat, but regional and political differences were forgotten as money, clothing and offers of personal help poured into the stricken areas. Montrealers recount memories of those dark days with a touch of mutual respect.

As the political climate brightened, Montréal began to emerge from a fundamental reshaping of the local economy. The city experienced a burst of activity as sectors such as software, aerospace, telecommunications and pharmaceuticals replaced rust-belt industries like textiles and refining. Québec’s moderate wages became an asset to manufacturers seeking qualified, affordable labor, and foreign investment began to flow more freely. Tax dollars were used to recast Montréal as a new-media hub, encouraging dozens of multimedia firms to settle in the Old Port area.

As Montréal gears up for its 375th anniversary in 2017, the upshot is a city transformed and brimming with self-confidence. The Place des Arts area teems with new restaurants and entertainment venues; Old Montréal buzzes with designer hotels and trendy restaurants; and once-empty warehouses around town have been converted to lofts and offices.

Montréal’s renewed vigor has lured back some of the Anglophones who left in the 1980s and ‘90s, and language conflicts have slipped into the background. The impassioned separatists who came of age during the heady days of the Quiet Revolution are older now, and most young Montrealers are at least bilingual. In the 2014 Québec general election, the Parti Québécois earned its smallest share of the popular vote since its inaugural run in 1970. The PQ's defeat, brought about in part by candidate Pierre Karl Péladeau's strong endorsement of Québecois sovereignty, has led some to speculate that the demographic opportunity for separatism may have ended for good.

The federalist Québec Liberal Party has dominated provincial government for most of the past decade. In 2012, the party suffered its greatest challenge when students staged months of street protests against Premier Jean Charest’s plans to end a long freeze on tuition increases. The controversy resulted in hundreds of arrests, passage of a tough new law to curb the protests and a brief return to power in September 2012 for the Parti Québecois, which had promised to do away with Charest's proposed tuition hike. However, the Liberals regained supremacy in Québec's April 2014 elections under new party leader Philippe Couillard.

The Quiet Revolution

In the 1960s, the so-called Quiet Revolution began to give French Quebecers more sway in industry and politics, and ultimately established the primacy of the French language.

The ‘revolution’ itself refers to the sweeping economic and social changes initiated by nationalist Premier Jean Lesage and others that were intended to make Quebecers more in control of their destiny and ‘masters at home.’ It was an effort to modernize, secularize and Frenchify Québec after years of conservatism under Premier Maurice Duplessis. But this tide of nationalism also had extreme elements.

The Front de Libération du Québec (FLQ), a radical nationalist group committed to overthrowing ‘medieval Catholicism and capitalist oppression’ through revolution, was founded in 1963. Initially the FLQ attacked military targets and other symbols of federal power, but soon became involved in labor disputes. In the mid-1960s, the FLQ claimed responsibility for a spate of bombings. In October 1970, the FLQ kidnapped Québec’s labor minister Pierre Laporte and a British trade official in an attempt to force the independence issue. Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau declared a state of emergency and called in the army to protect government officials. The next day Laporte’s body was found in the trunk of a car. By December the crisis had passed, but the murder discredited the FLQ in the eyes of many supporters. In the years that followed, the FLQ effectively ceased to exist as a political movement.

While support for Québec independence still hovers around 30% to 45% in the polls, there’s little appetite for another referendum on separation from Canada. Rather, the current generation of voters seems to prefer a path of strong Québecois autonomy within the existing Canadian framework.

History Books

AA Short History of Quebec (1993, revised 2008) by John A Dickinson and Brian Young. Social and economic portrait of Québec from the pre-European period to modern constitutional struggles.

ACity Unique: Montreal Days and Nights in the 1940s and ‘50s (1996) by William Weintraub. Engaging tales of Montréal’s twilight period as Sin City and an exploration of its historic districts.

AThe Road to Now: A History of Blacks in Montreal (1997) by Dorothy Williams. A terrific and rare look at a little-known aspect of the city’s history and the black experience in New France.

AAll Our Yesterdays: A Collection of 100 Stories of People, Landmarks and Events From Montreal’s Past (1988) by Edgar Andrew Collard. An insightful look at the city’s history, streets and squares, with wonderful illustrations.

ACanadiens Legends: Montreal’s Hockey Heroes (2004) by Mike Leonetti. Wonderful profiles of some of the key players that made this team an NHL legend and a mythological part of Montréal’s 20th-century cultural history.

AThe Illustrated History of Canada (2002) edited by Craig Brown. Several historians contributed to this well-crafted work with fascinating prints, maps and sketches.

TIMELINE

1500

Semi-sedentary Iroquois tribes frequent the island, settling one permanent village, Hochelaga (Place of the Beaver Dam), near present-day McGill University.

1535

French explorer and gold-seeker Jacques Cartier sets foot on the island. He encounters the Iroquois, returning home with ‘gold’ and ‘diamonds’ – later revealed to be iron pyrite and quartz.

1642

Maisonneuve and a group of 50 settlers found the colony of ‘Ville-Marie.’ Frenchwomen Jeanne Mance and Marguerite Bourgeoys establish New France’s first hospital and school.

1721

After years of on-and-off fighting with the Iroquois, the town erects a stone citadel. The colony continues to grow, fueled by the burgeoning riches of the fur trade.

1760

One year after a resounding victory outside of Québec City, the British seize Montréal.

1763

France officially cedes its territories to Britain, bringing an end to French rule in Canada.

1832

Montréal is incorporated as a city following the prosperous 1820s. The Canal de Lachine dramatically improves commerce and transport.

1833

Jacques Viger is elected as Montréal’s first mayor.

1840s

Bad times arrive, with violent protests over colonial reform, and a 1847 typhus epidemic that kills thousands.

1852

The Great Fire burns much of the city to the ground.

1865

Lured by big industry, immigrants arrive by the thousands; Francophones soon outnumber Anglophones. Over the next 40 years, the population quadruples.

1867

Railways and an active harbor bring wealth to Montréal.

1867

Tired of colonial rule, representatives of colonies on the Atlantic coast meet and form a Confederation; modern Canada is born.

1917

As war rages in Europe, Quebecers feel no loyalty to France or Britain and resent being conscripted to fight. Tensions seethe between Anglos and French Canadians.

1959

St Lawrence Seaway opens, permitting freighters to bypass Montréal. Toronto slowly overtakes Montréal as Canada’s commercial engine.

1959

The strong-arm, anti-labor Duplessis regime ends. Francophone unions and co-operatives are on the rise.

1967

Expo ‘67 in Montréal marks the centenary of Canadian Confederation, drawing people from across the country and around the world.

1970

The separatist-minded Front de Libération du Québec kidnaps labor minister Pierre Laporte (later killing him). Although the FLQ is discredited, separatism gains support.

1976

The Parti Québécois gains power and passes Bill 101, declaring French the official language. Many businesses leave Montréal, taking 15,000 jobs with them.

1976

Montréal stages the Summer Olympics and goes deeply into debt.

1980

The first referendum on independence ends in a comfortable defeat.

1993

Prime Minister Brian Mulroney steps down after failing to get support for the revised Charlottetown Accord.

1994

Voters go to the polls again, narrowly defeating Québec gaining sovereignty. Over the next decade the separatist movement slowly fizzles.

1998

The Great Ice Storm leaves thousands in Montréal and southern Québec without heat or electricity as power lines are severed by ice.

2005

Canada becomes the fourth country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage. Montrealer Michaëlle Jean is installed as 27th governor general of Canada.

2011–12

Montreal is wracked by months of street protests by students opposed to government plans to increase tuition. Hundreds are arrested.

2014

The Parti Québecois suffers its worst electoral showing in decades, reflecting anemic public support for Québecois sovereignty.

People & Culture

Montréal’s social scene is nothing if not passionate. Political apathy can turn into fiery protest overnight, while the potent mix of French, English and many other languages bubbles away in a stew that’s sometimes tense. But a love of music, festivals and food somehow makes it all work.

Language

French is the official language of Québec and French Quebecers are passionate about it, seeing their language as the last line of defense against Anglo-Saxon culture. What makes Montréal unique in the province is the interface of English and French – a mix responsible for the city’s dynamism as well as the root of many of its conflicts.

Until the 1970s it was the English minority (few of whom spoke French) who ran the businesses, held positions of power and accumulated wealth in Québec; more often than not a French Quebecer going into a downtown store couldn’t get service in his or her own language.

But as Québec’s separatist movement arose, the Canadian government passed laws in 1969 that required all federal services and public signs to appear in both languages. The separatists took things further and demanded the primacy of French in Québec, which was affirmed by the Parti Québécois with the passage of Bill 101 in 1977. Though there was much hand-wringing, the fact is that Bill 101 probably saved the French language from dying out in North America. If you’re at a party with five Anglophones and one Francophone these days, the chances are everyone will be speaking French, something that would have been rare in decades past.

According to Québec's latest census, native French speakers in the Montréal metropolitan area number 2,395,525, while native English speakers number 439,845. More than 50 per cent of Montrealers from a variety of backgrounds speak both official languages.

Québec settlers were relatively cut off from France once they arrived in the New World, so the French you hear today in the province, known colloquially as Québécois, developed more or less independently from what was going on in France. The result is a rich local vocabulary, with its own idioms and sayings, and words used in everyday speech that haven’t been spoken in France since the 1800s. Accents vary widely across the province, but all are characterized by a twang and rhythmic bounce unique to Québec.

To francophone Quebecers, the French spoken in France sounds desperately posh. To people from France, the French spoken in Québec sounds terribly old-fashioned and at times unintelligible – an attitude that instantly ruffles feathers in Québec, as it’s felt to be condescending.

Quebecers learn standard French in school, hear standard French on newscasts and grow up on movies and music from France, so if you speak French from France, locals will have no difficulty understanding you – it’s you understanding them that will be the problem. Remember, even when French-language Québécois movies are shown in France, they are shown with French subtitles.

Young Montrealers today are not particularly concerned about language issues. Most grew up speaking both languages, and people you meet in daily life – store owners, waiters and bus drivers – switch effortlessly between French and English.

The French spoken in Québec has swear words centering on objects used in church services. Where an English speaker might yell ‘fuck’, a Quebecer will unleash ‘tabarnac’ (from tabernacle). Instead of ‘oh, shit!’, a Quebecer will cry ‘sacrament!’ (from sacrament). There are also combos like ‘hostie de câlisse de tabarnac!’ (‘host in the chalice in the tabernacle!’).

Signs of Pride

Québec’s French Language Charter, the (in)famous Bill 101, asserts the primacy of French on public signs across the province. Stop signs in Québec read ‘ARRÊT,’ a word that actually means a stop for buses or trains (even in France, the red hexagonal signs read ‘STOP’). Apostrophes had to be removed from storefronts like Ogilvy’s in the 1980s to comply with French usage, and English is only allowed on signage provided it’s no more than half the size of the French lettering. Perhaps most bewildering of all is the acronym PFK (Poulet Frit Kentucky) for a leading fast-food chain.

The law is enforced by language police who, prompted by complaints from French hardliners, roam the province with tape measures (yes – for real!) and hand out fines to shopkeepers if a door says ‘Push’ more prominently than ‘Poussez.’ These days, most Quebecers take it all in their stride, and the comical language tussles between businesses and the language police that once featured regularly on evening newscasts and phone-in shows have largely disappeared.

Media

Montréal is the seat of Québec’s French-language media companies and has four big TV networks. New-media firms such as Autodesk Media and Entertainment are renowned for their animation and special effects, and the Cité du Multimédia center in Old Montréal is an incubator for start-ups.

The Montreal Gazette (www.montrealgazette.com) is the major English-language daily, with coverage of national affairs, politics and the arts. The big French dailies are the federalist La Presse (www.cyberpresse.ca) and the separatist-leaning Le Devoir (www.ledevoir.com).

Le Journal de Montréal (www.journaldemontreal.com) is the city’s rollicking tabloid, replete with sensational headlines and photos. Though much derided, the Journal does the brashest undercover and investigative reporting in town and has the city’s biggest daily circulation.

Montréal's last free alternative weekly is the French-language Voir (www.voir.ca); it covers film, music, books, restaurants, and goings-on about town.

Canada’s only truly national papers are the left-leaning Toronto Globe and Mail (www.theglobeandmail.com) and the right-leaning National Post (www.nationalpost.com). The Walrus (www.thewalrus.ca) is a Canadian New Yorker/Atlantic Monthly–style magazine, with in-depth articles and musings from the country’s intellectual heavyweights. Canada’s weekly news magazine Maclean’s (www.macleans.ca) and the sophisticated general-interest magazine Maisonneuve (www.maisonneuve.org) are also full of high-quality writing.

L’Actualité (www.lactualite.com) is Québec’s monthly news magazine in French. The Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s site (www.cbc.ca) is an excellent source for current affairs.

English Broadcasters

CJAD 800AM (www.cjad.com) Talk radio

CBC Radio One 88.5 FM (www.cbc.ca/radio) News and current events

CHOM 97.7 FM (www.chom.com) Classic rock

Global Montreal (www.globalnews.ca/montreal) Television

CTV Montreal (www.montreal.ctvnews.ca) Television

CBC Montreal (www.cbc.ca/montreal) Television

Fashion

One of the things visitors first notice here is how well dressed people are – and it’s not just the women that stop traffic. Conservative colors prevail in law and banking, but in media, IT and other businesses, local men might sport a chic olive-green suit with a lavender tie, which their counterparts in Vancouver, Toronto or even New York wouldn’t dream of donning.

French-language fashion blogs like Zurbaines (www.zurbaines.com) and Mode Montréal (www.modemontreal.tv) follow the local fashion scene, as do English-language counterparts such as the Montreal Fashion Blog (www.themontrealfashionblog.com) and Vitamin Daily (www.vitamindaily.com/montreal/fashion).

Whether artists, students or entrepreneurs, it seems like everybody knows the look they’re going for and pulls it off well. Label watchers put it down to the perfect fusion of European and American fashion – Paris's bold willingness to experiment coupled with an American practicality that makes people choose what’s right for them rather than what’s necessarily in fashion. In short, Montrealers have fun with clothes and are happy to flaunt it.

Carved in stone on Québec City's Parliament building and emblazoned on every license plate in the province, the simple motto ‘Je me souviens’ (I remember) eloquently expresses the Québecois sense of pride and identity as North America’s largest and oldest French-speaking culture.

Sports

Québecers are active year-round, jogging, cycling and kayaking on warm summer days, with cold wintry days bringing ice-skating, cross-country skiing and pickup hockey games on frozen lakes.

Sporting events – which can essentially be subcategorized as hockey followed by everything else – draw huge numbers of Montrealers. The essential experience is to journey into the great hockey hall of the Bell Centre to catch the Canadiens (www.canadiens.nhl.com) gliding to victory.

Other key spectator moments include watching the mighty Alouettes (www.montrealalouettes.com), a Canadian football team with plenty of muscle (despite being named after a songbird); rooting for the Montréal Impact (www.impactmontreal.com) soccer team; and attending the Formula One Grand Prix du Canada (www.circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca).

For those who’d rather join the fray, there are plenty of outdoorsy events. The Tour de l’Île, for instance, is one of Montréal’s best-loved participatory bike rides, when tens of thousands fill the streets for a fun cycle (28km or 50km) around Montréal. There’s a palpable energy in the city that even non-pedalers enjoy.

In winter, green spaces become cross-country ski trails, and ponds and lakes transform into outdoor skating rinks at places like the Old Port and Parc La Fontaine.

Other great ways to enjoy the scenery include white-water rafting down the Lachine Rapids (or surfing them if your life insurance policy is in order), kayaking idly down the Canal de Lachine, or simply heading to ‘the Mountain’ (Parc du Mont-Royal) for a bit of running, pedal-boating, ice-skating, sledding, snowshoeing, bird-watching or – if it’s Sunday – gyrating and/or pounding your drums at the free-spirited tam-tam jam.

Music & the Arts

Montréal is both the undisputed center of the French-language entertainment universe in North America and the cultural mecca of Québec. It is ground zero for everything from Québec’s sizable film and music industries to visual and dramatic arts and publishing.

Music

From Leonard Cohen to Arcade Fire and the Jazz Fest, sometimes it seems Montréal is all about the music. A friend to experimentation of all genres and styles, the city is home to more than 250 active bands, embracing anything and everything from electropop, hip-hop and glam rock to Celtic folk, indie punk and yéyé (exuberant 1960s-style French rock) – not to mention roots, ambient, grunge and rockabilly.

Rock & Pop

On the rock scene, Arcade Fire remains one of Montréal’s top indie rock bands. Their eclectic folk/rock/indie sound and manic ensemble of instruments have made them critics’ darlings since their first album Funeral hit the US and UK top 10 lists in 2004. Their 2010 album The Suburbs topped charts in several countries and won Album of the Year at the 2011 Grammy Awards, and their 2014 release Reflektor was nominated as Best Alternative Music Album at the 2015 Grammies.

In the francophone music industry, the market is crowded with talented artists. Eternal favorites include alternative rocker Louis-Jean Cormier, who won both a Juno and a Félix award for his 2013 release Le Treizième Étage; keyboardist Pierre Lapointe; rocker Jean Leloup; and singer-songwriter Ariane Moffatt.

More recent arrivals include singer-songwriter Alex Nevsky, who made a clean sweep of the Félix awards in 2014, taking honors for Best Male Vocalist, Best Pop Album (Himalaya Mon Amour) and Best Song ('On Leur A Fait Croire'); indie pop artist Coeur de Pirate, whose first two albums were nominated for Junos; crooner Patrick Watson, known for singing in English and French, as well as playing unusual instruments, such as a bicycle on his song ‘Beijing’; and singer-songwriter Marie-Pierre Arthur, whose awards include best new singer-songwriter of 2012 and best album for her 2013 release Aux Alentours.

If you come across Rue Rufus Rockhead near Marché Atwater, don’t think it’s named after a character from The Flintstones. Jamaican-born Rufus Rockhead was the owner of Rockhead’s Paradise, the hottest downtown jazz club in the 1930s and ‘40s. It hosted the likes of Billie Holliday, Sarah Vaughan, and Sammy Davis Jr.

Jazz

In the 1940s and ‘50s, Montréal was one of North America's most important venues for jazz music. It produced a number of major jazz musicians, such as pianist Oscar Peterson and trumpeter Maynard Ferguson. The scene went into decline in the late 1950s but revived after the premiere of the jazz festival in 1979.

The city’s other celebrated jazz pianist, Oliver Jones, was already in his fifties when he was discovered by the music world. Since the 1980s he has established himself as a major mainstream player with impressive technique and a hard-swinging style.

Singer and pianist Diana Krall has enjoyed mass appeal without sacrificing her bop and swing roots. In 1993 she launched her career on Montréal’s Justin Time record label, and she remains a perennial local favorite during regular appearances at Montréal's jazz festival.

Originally from New York City, singer Ranee Lee is known for her virtuosity that spans silky ballads, swing standards and raw blues tunes. She has performed with many jazz notables and is a respected teacher on the McGill University music faculty.

Sounds of Montréal: The World-Renowned Jazz Festival

In a city that loves festivals, the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal (www.montrealjazzfest.com; hlate Jun–early Jul) is the mother of them all – erupting in late June each year and turning the city into an enormous stage for 10 days. No longer just about jazz, this is one of the world’s biggies, with hundreds of top-name performers bringing reggae, rock, blues, world music, Latin, reggae, Cajun, Dixieland and even pop to audiophiles from across the globe.

It started as the pipe dream of a young local music producer, Alain Simard, who tried to sell his idea to the government and corporate sponsors, with little success. Now it’s the single biggest tourist event in Québec, attracting nearly two million visitors to 400 concerts – many say it’s the best jazz festival on the planet. Miles Davis, Herbie Hancock, Al Jarreau, Sonny Rollins, Wayne Shorter, Stevie Wonder, Al Dimeola, James Cotton, Booker T Jones, Taj Mahal, John Scofield and Jack DeJohnette are but a few of the giants who have graced the podiums over the years.

Practicalities

The festival website provides all the details; free festival programs are at kiosks around the Place des Arts. Some concerts are held indoors, others on outdoor stages; several downtown blocks are closed to traffic. The music starts around noon and lasts until late evening when the clubs take over.

Classical

The backbone of Montréal’s classical music scene is the Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal. The OSM has won a host of awards including two Grammys and 12 Junos, and it was the first Canadian orchestra to achieve platinum (500,000 records sold), on its 1984 recording of Ravel’s Bolero.

The smaller Orchestre Métropolitain du Grand Montréal is a showcase of young Québec talent and as such is staffed by graduates from the province’s conservatories. The director is Yannick Nézet-Séguin, a Montrealer who became one of Canada's youngest major orchestra directors when he took the baton at age 25 in 2000.

Opera

Over the past 25 years, the Opéra de Montréal has become a giant on the North American landscape. It has staged dozens of operas and hundreds of performances, and collaborated with numerous international companies. Many great names have graced its stages including Québec’s own Leila Chalfoun, Lyne Fortin, Suzie LeBlanc and André Turp, alongside a considerable array of Canadian and international talent. The company stages several new operas every season, including classics like Madame Butterfly and The Magic Flute.

Locally, new operas are not created, but in 1989 the Opéra de Montréal won a Félix (Québec music award) for the most popular production of the season for Nelligan, an opera created in Québec about the life of poet Émile Nelligan by André Gagnon; Michel Tremblay wrote the libretto.

Folk

Best known as an icon of the 1960s, Montréal's native son Leonard Cohen remains one of the world’s most eclectic folk artists. Beloved worldwide for his song 'Suzanne,' Cohen experienced a second burst of major creativity in the 1980s and early 1990s that suddenly made him hip again to younger audiences. Now an octogenarian, Cohen has re-emerged with another cycle of albums and embarked on a series of wildly successful world tours to rapturous audiences. He was chosen as Artist of the Year at the 2013 Juno awards, and his most recent release, Popular Problems, took Album of the Year at the 2015 Junos.

Other English-language folk singers are few and far between, but it's well worth hearing Montréal-based folk quartet the Barr Brothers if you get a chance.

William Shatner left his native Montreal for Star Trek long ago, but the city still loves him. McGill University, his alma mater, awarded him an honorary doctorate in 2011. ‘Don’t be afraid of making an ass of yourself,’ he told students. ‘I do it all the time and look what I got.’

Chanson

It’s hard to understand music in Québec without understanding what they call chanson. While France has a long tradition of this type of French folk music, where a focus on lyric and poetry takes precedence over the music itself, in Québec the chanson has historically been tied in with politics and identity in a profound way. With the Duplessis-era Québec stifling any real creative production, Quebecers were tuned into only what was coming out of France, like Edith Piaf or Charles Aznavour.

The social upheaval of the Quiet Revolution in the 1960s changed all that, when a generation of musicians took up their guitars, started to sing in Québécois and penned deeply personal lyrics about life in Québec and, often, independence.

Longtime favorite Gilles Vigneault is synonymous with the chanson Gens du pays (People of the Country), often played on nationalist occasions. Other iconic chansonniers include Félix Leclerc, Claude Léveillé, Richard Desjardins and Jean-Pierre Ferland.

These days, younger performers such as Coeur de Pirate or the Soeurs Boulay who embrace the style are usually referred to as auteurs-compositeurs-interprêtes (singer-songwriters) rather than chansonniers, and their repertoire may include pop and rock as well as chanson. To experience this Québecois tradition for yourself, visit a boîte á chanson (club where this type of music is played).

Reflecting the strength and diversity of Québec's film industry, three consecutive Québecois directors earned Oscar nominations in the Best Foreign Film category between 2010 and 2012: Denis Villeneuve for Incendies, Philippe Falardeau for Monsieur Lazhar and Kim Nguyen for Rebelle (War Witch).

Film & Television

The foundations of Québec cinema were laid in the 1930s when Maurice Proulx, a pioneer documentary filmmaker, charted the colonization of northwestern Québec's gold-rich Abitibi region. In the 1960s, directors were inspired to experiment by the likes of Federico Fellini and Jean-Luc Godard, but rural life remained the subject of most Québecois films. The 1970s were another watershed moment when erotically charged movies like Claude Jutra’s Mon Oncle Antoine and Gilles Carle's La Vraie Nature de Bernadette sent the province a-twitter.

Montréal finally burst onto the international scene in the 1980s with a new generation of directors such as Denys Arcand, Louis Archambault, Michel Brault and Charles Binamé. That trend has continued into the 21st century with the emergence of acclaimed directors such as Denis Villeneuve, Philippe Falardeau and Kim Nguyen. Films are produced in French but dubbing and subtitling have made them accessible to a wider audience.

Animation, 3D and multimedia technologies have also been a Montréal specialty. Companies such as Softimage and Discreet Logic – now both folded into the much bigger, but still Montréal-based, Autodesk Media and Entertainment – have masterminded the special effects used in countless Hollywood blockbusters, including Jurassic Park, The Mask, Godzilla, Titanic, Avatar, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and the Life of Pi.

In late August or early September, the Festival du Film de Montréal (www.ffm-montreal.org), one of Canada's largest and most prestigious cinema festivals, brings in filmmakers from all over Québec and around the world.

Québec’s Master Filmmaker

No director portrays modern Québec with a sharper eye than Montréal’s own Denys Arcand. His themes are universal enough to strike a chord with international audiences: modern sex in The Decline of the American Empire (1986), religion in Jésus of Montréal (1989) and death in the brilliant tragicomedy The Barbarian Invasions, which won the 2003 Academy Award for Best Foreign Film (the first, and so far the only, Canadian film to ever win an Oscar in that category).

Born in 1941 near Québec City, Arcand studied history in Montréal and landed a job at the National Film Board making movies for Expo ‘67. The young director was a keen supporter of francophone rights and the Quiet Revolution, but became deeply disillusioned with Québec politics in the 1970s. His most recent works include L'Âge des Ténèbres, which was the closing film of the Cannes Film Festival in 2007, and Le Règne de la Beauté (2014).

A hit TV show in French is Tout le Monde en Parle (Everybody is Talking About It), a current affairs program hosted by comedian Guy A Lepage. It’s controversial, snappy and the first stop for anyone doing anything in Québec’s public arena, from politicians and actors to war heroes.

Theater

Founded in 1968, the Centaur Theatre is Québec’s premier English-language stage for drama. Initially it featured contemporary-international playwrights such as Arthur Miller, Bertolt Brecht and Harold Pinter, but the addition of a second stage for experimental theater in the 1970s helped fuel the rise of English-speaking playwrights such as David Fennario, whose award-winning Balconville, first performed in 1979, remains a classic. The theatre stages its 10-day Wildside Theatre Festival every January.

Québec’s fabulously successful Cirque du Soleil set new artistic boundaries by combining dance, theater and circus in a single power-packed show. Now an international phenomenon with $1 billion-plus in annual revenues, the company produces touring shows in places as far flung as Colombia, Australia, and multiple hotels on the Las Vegas Strip; performances in Québec are not as common as they once were, but if you're lucky, you may still catch a first look at one of their new shows in Montréal's Old Port or elsewhere around the province.

One of Québec's most famous playwrights is Michel Tremblay, whose plays about people speaking in their own dialects changed the way Quebecers felt about their language.

Montréal boasts two great contemporary dance festivals: the Festival TransAmériques (www.fta.qc.ca) in late May/early June focuses on new creations by Canadian and international performers. The Quartiers Danses festival (www.quartiersdanses.com) in September stages performances at venues ranging from the Atwater Market to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and Parc du Mont-Royal.

Dance

Montréal’s dance scene crackles with innovation. Virtually every year a new miniseries, dance festival or performing arts troupe emerges to wow audiences in wild and unpredictable ways. Hundreds of performers and dozens of companies are based in the city and there’s an excellent choice of venues for interpreters to strut their stuff; Agora de la Danse and Circuit-Est Centre Chorégraphique are two of the best.

Several major companies have established the city’s reputation as an international dance mecca. Les Grands Ballets Canadiens attracts the biggest audiences, while Les Ballets Jazz de Montréal, La La La Human Steps, Compagnie Marie Chouinard, Cas Public, O Vertigo, Daniel Léveillé Danse and Par B.L.eux are troupes of international standing.

Montréal resident Margie Gillis is a modern dancer of international renown who combines performing, teaching and choreography all over the world. She has choreographed solo shows for Cirque du Soleil and in 2013 was named an Officer of the Order of Canada for her lifelong artistic achievement.

Literature

Montréal proudly calls itself the world’s second cradle of French-language writers – after Paris, of course. But the city also boasts intimate links to many English-language writers of repute.

Caustic, quick-witted and prolific, Mordecai Richler was the ‘grumpy old man’ of Montréal literature in the latter part of the 20th century. Richler grew up in a working-class Jewish district in Mile End and, for better or worse, remained the most distinctive voice in anglophone Montréal until his passing in 2001. Most of his novels focus on Montréal and its wild and wonderful characters. For another engaging English-language perspective on the province, check out the award-winning mystery novels of Louise Penny, whose protagonist Chief Inspector Armand Gamache unravels murders set in both small-town and urban Québec.

On the French side, Québec writers who are widely read in English include Anne Hébert, Marie-Claire Blais, Hubert Aquin, Christian Mistral and Dany Laferrière. For stories about everyday life on the Plateau, try Michel Tremblay’s short stories.

Painting & Visual Arts

Québec’s lush forests and icy winter landscapes have been inspiring landscape artists since the 19th century. Horatio Walker was known for his sentimental interpretations of Québec farm life such as Oxen Drinking (1899). Marc-Aurèle Fortin (1880–1970) is famed for his watercolors of the Québec countryside. His portraits of majestic elms along Montréal avenues can be viewed in the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Québec's surrealist-influenced Automatistes movement of the 1940s produced a number of artists, including Jean-Paul Riopelle (1923–2002), whose works are on permanent display at Montréal’s Musée d’Art Contemporain and Québec City's Musée National des Beaux-Arts.

Roch Carrier’s short story ‘Le Chandail de Hockey’ (The Hockey Sweater), is well known by hockey fans. Due to a mail-order mix-up, a child is forced to wear a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey in a small Québec town teeming with Montréal Canadiens fans. It’s a parable of the friction between French and English populations.

Architecture

Montréal’s split personality is nowhere more obvious than in its architecture, a beguiling mix of European traditionalism and North American modernism. Lovingly preserved Victorian mansions and stately beaux-arts monuments rub shoulders with the sleek lines of modern skyscrapers, lending Montréal’s urban landscape a creative, eclectic sophistication all of its own.

Buildings on Blvd René-Lévesque, MontréalJEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ice Architecture

In the 1880s, Montréal’s winters were all the rage. Why? Enterprising locals took advantage of the frigid temperatures and built a series of castles made of ice. The Winter Carnival of 1883 saw the construction of an Ice Palace designed by AC Hutchinson, who also worked on Canada’s Parliament buildings. It had walls fashioned of 500-pound ice blocks cut from the St Lawrence River and a roof of evergreen boughs, which were sprayed with water to form icicles. Built in Dorchester Square, the castles became more and more impressive every year. By 1889 they were more than 10 stories tall made of thousands of ice blocks, as many extant art prints held by the Musée McCord attest.

Old-World Icons

Architectural Montréal is perhaps most easily understood by its neighborhoods and its icons. In Old Montréal, a plethora of 19th-century and some 18th-century buildings crowd in cobblestone streets, where horse-drawn carriages impart a flavor of Europe some 100 years ago; no wonder it’s the setting for so many films. The representative structure here is the stunning Basilique Notre-Dame from the mid-19th century. Indeed, for most of its modern history, the city’s architecture has been characterized by churches, reflecting the Catholic and Protestant churches’ influence on its development. Their innumerable metallic roofs earned Montréal its nickname – La Ville aux Cent Clochers (City of 100 Steeples). When Mark Twain visited in 1881, he famously remarked, ‘This is the first time I was ever in a city where you couldn’t throw a brick without breaking a church window.’

Today, however, Old Montréal is also home to modern eyesores that clash with the heritage structures: the 500 Place d’Armes building and the Palais de Justice building, relics of the 1960s and 1970s, make no attempt to fit in. Still, Old Montréal is one of the most homogenous neighborhoods of the city. Today’s strict building codes require extensive vetting before new construction can begin.

For many visitors, the weathered greystones, such as the old stone buildings along Rue St-Paul, offer the strongest images of Old Montréal. The style emerged under the French regime in Québec (1608–1763), based on Norman and Breton houses with wide, shallow fronts, stuccoed stone and a steep roof punctuated by dormer windows. But the locals soon adapted the blueprint to Montréal’s harsh winters, making the roof less steep, adding basements and extending the eaves over the walls for extra snow protection.

From the 19th century, architects tapped any number of retro styles: classical (Bank of Montréal), Gothic (Basilique Notre-Dame) and Italian renaissance (Royal Bank), to name a few. As Montréal boomed in the 1920s, a handful of famous architects such as Edward Maxwell, George Ross and Robert MacDonald left their mark on handsome towers in Old Montréal and Downtown. French Second Empire style continued to be favored for comfortable francophone homes and some public buildings, such as the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall).

Downtown is a multifaceted jumble of buildings where run-down 20th-century brick buildings abut shiny new multipurpose complexes. Sometimes one building straddles the historical divide: the Centre Canadien d’Architecture integrates a graceful historical greystone right into its contemporary façade. Other important buildings were meant to break with the past. Place Ville-Marie, a multitowered complex built in the late 1950s, revolutionized urban architecture in Montréal and was the starting point for the underground city.

Must-Sees in Montréal

Basilique Notre-Dame

Hôtel de Ville

Biosphère

Oratoire St-Joseph

Stade Olympique

Transforming Downtown

Since the 1960s, the government has spent billions developing tourist attractions and infrastructure in Montréal, and the resultant architectural boom has greatly transformed the city. Expo '67 spurred the construction of experimental edifices such as Habitat 67, a controversial apartment building designed by Montréal architect Moshe Safdie when he was only 23; located on a promontory off the Old Port, it resembles a child’s scattered building blocks. Other structures with 1960s roots include Buckminster Fuller's Biosphère, which once wore a skin made of spherical mesh, and the Casino de Montréal, which cleverly merges two of the most far-out pavilions of Expo ‘67. The 1976 Olympics saw an explosion of large-scale projects, the most notorious of which, the Stade Olympique (Olympic Stadium; parcolympique.qc.ca; 4141 Ave Pierre de Coubertin; h9am-6pm; mPie-IX), serves as a reminder of the pitfalls of constructing costly white elephants. Despite its reputation, many admire the stadium’s dramatic tower, which leans at 45 degrees and is home to an observation deck.

One of the largest redevelopment projects in Canada was Montréal’s $200 million Palais des Congrès convention center, inaugurated in 1983 and expanded between 1999 and 2002. The Palais and its adjacent squares form a mini-district known as the Quartier International that unites Downtown and Old Montréal by concealing an ugly sunken expressway. Nearby, in the Quartier Latin, the 33,000-sq-meter Bibliothèque et Archives Nationale du Québec opened to huge success in 2005, with crowds of Montrealers visiting the building each day.

The government has also invested millions of dollars in Montréal's public thoroughfares. 'The Main' (Blvd St-Laurent) has been spruced up with the widening of sidewalks, the planting of trees and the addition of street lights in certain stretches. A similar facelift for Rue Ste-Catherine, completed in 2012, involved the installation of new sidewalks and paving stones. Rue Notre-Dame, long a two-laned nightmare pocked with potholes (but nonetheless an important artery into Old Montréal), is also slated for a major overhaul that will convert it into a landscaped boulevard with four lanes in each direction, flanked by multi-purpose recreation paths.

Habitat 67, MontréalTIM DRAPER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Canada’s Star Architect, Moshe Safdie

Born in Haifa, Israel in 1938, Moshe Safdie graduated from McGill University’s architecture program in 1961 and became almost an instant star. He was only 23 when asked to design Habitat 67, which was actually based on his university thesis. Now based in Boston, Safdie has crafted a stellar career gravitating toward high-profile projects where he can unleash innovative buildings with just the right dash of controversy to get people talking about them.

Most notably, Safdie designed the $56 million, 4000-sq-meter Holocaust Memorial in Jerusalem, Israel, which opened in 2005. He also designed Ottawa’s National Gallery of Canada, which opened in 1988 with its trademark soaring glass front, and the Vancouver Library Square, which evokes the Roman Colosseum.

More recently, Safdie’s design for the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts in Kansas City, Missouri, which opened in 2011, features dramatic swooping curves and resembles a giant paper lantern or beehive.

Safdie was made a companion of the Order of Canada in 2005, Canada’s highest civilian honor.

Into the Future

Never a city to rest on its laurels, Montréal continues to jazz up its urban landscape with new architectural ventures.

Montréal’s most ambitious urban renewal project in recent years has been the Quartier des Spectacles, on the edge of the Quartier Latin and Downtown. Since 2007, the $150 million project has completely revitalized a 1-sq-km area bordered roughly by Rue Berri, Rue Sherbrooke, Blvd René-Lévesque and Rue City Councillors. The result is a culturally rich district that currently houses 80 arts venues, including 30 concert halls and numerous galleries and exhibition spaces. The Quartier is now home to 12,000 residents and hosts several big-ticket festivals, including the Montréal Jazz Festival. Its success has inspired arts and urban planning professionals from around the world, who have come from as far away as New Zealand to study it as a model for integrating the arts with urban living and work spaces.

Major milestones in the Quartier des Spectacles' development include the 2009 opening of the Place des Festivals, a vast open-air entertainment venue with a colorfully lit 235-jet fountain, and the 2011 inauguration of the Maison Symphonique de Montréal – the new home of Montréal's symphony orchestra. In 2017 the National Film Board of Canada is scheduled to open its own newly constructed headquarters here.

Montréal is transforming itself yet again with the construction of several new public spaces for its 375th anniversary celebration in 2017. In addition to recreation and entertainment venues Click here, plans call for construction of a new square near the heart of the city at Champ-de-Mars, which will improve pedestrian access between Old Montréal (Vieux-Montréal) and Downtown while simultaneously offering the aesthetic benefit of covering over part of the Ville-Marie Expressway. Nearby Pl Jacques-Cartier in Vieux-Montréal will also get a major facelift.

Meanwhile, the city is pushing ahead with the multi-billion-dollar construction of two super-hospitals. The McGill University Health Center (MUHC), billed as North America's most advanced medical research center, opened its sparkling new 500-room Glen facility in Westmount in April 2015. Downtown, the Centre Hospitalier de l’Université de Montréal (CHUM) is incorporating two vestiges of 19th-century Montréal into its own ultra-modern hospital: the Maison Garth, an 1871 home demolished to make room for the hospital, will have its façade reconstructed stone by stone, while the Église de St-Sauveur, a church dating to 1865, will be crowned with a reproduction of its original 200-foot steeple. Both are to be fully integrated into the new hospital facility when it opens in spring 2016.

Looking further ahead, the federal government has announced that it will replace the aging Champlain Bridge with a modern new span across the St Lawrence River, scheduled for completion in 2018.

Victorian Beauties

Montréal boasts the largest collection of Victorian row houses in all of North America. Numerous examples can be viewed in the Plateau, along Rue St-Denis north of Rue Cherrier or Ave Laval north of Carré St-Louis. Visitors are inevitably charmed by their brightly painted wrought-iron staircases, which wind up the outside of duplexes and triplexes. They evolved for three important reasons: taxes (a staircase outside allowed each floor to count as a separate dwelling, so the city could hike property taxes), fuel costs (an internal staircase wastes heat as warm air rises through the stairwell) and space (the first and second floors were roomier without an internal staircase).

Québec City History & Culture

While Montréal reigns supreme as Québec’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, Québec City’s cultural identity rests on its dual role as the seat of provincial government and the cradle of French civilization in the Americas. The capital of Nouvelle France still exudes the spirit of days past, revealing deep French roots in everything from its atmospheric 17th- and 18th-century architecture to the overwhelming prevalence of French language and cuisine. Despite its strong historic ties, the city also has a vibrant modern side, with a flourishing arts scene and a jam-packed cultural calendar.

History

The first significant settlement on the site of today’s Québec City was a 500-strong Iroquois village called Stadacona. The Iroquois were seminomadic, building longhouses, hunting, fishing and cultivating crops until the land got tired, when they moved on.

French explorer Jacques Cartier traveled to the New World in 1534, making it as far as the Gaspé Peninsula before returning to France. His second trans-Atlantic voyage in 1535 brought him further up the St Lawrence River, where he spent a long and difficult winter encamped at the foot of the cliffs of present-day Québec City. Cartier lost 30 of his men to scurvy (the rest survived in large part thanks to traditional remedies provided by the Iroquois) before beating a retreat back to France in May 1536. Cartier returned in 1541 hoping to start a post upstream in the New World, but again faced a winter of scurvy and disastrous relations with the indigenous population; this last failed attempt set back France’s colonial ambitions for more than half a century.

Explorer Samuel de Champlain is credited with founding the city in 1608, calling it Kebec, from the Algonquian word meaning ‘the river narrows here.’ Champlain established forts and dwellings around present-day Place-Royale, laying the groundwork for the thriving capital of Nouvelle-France (New France). The English successfully attacked in 1629, but Québec was returned to the French under a treaty in 1632. As the 17th century progressed, Ursuline and Jesuit missionaries arrived, bolstering Québec City’s status as the most important French settlement in the New World.

Great Britain continued to keep its eye on Québec, launching unsuccessful campaigns to take the city in 1690 and 1711. In 1759, General Wolfe finally led the British to victory over Montcalm on the Plains of Abraham. One of North America’s most famous battles, it virtually ended the long-running conflict between Britain and France. The Treaty of Paris gave Canada to Britain in 1763. And in 1775, the American revolutionaries tried to capture Québec but were promptly pushed back. In 1864, meetings were held in the city that led to the formation of Canada in 1867. Québec City became the provincial capital.

In the 19th century, the city lost its status and importance to Montréal, but when the Great Depression burst Montréal’s bubble in 1929, Québec City regained some stature as a government center. Then, in the 1950s, a group of business-savvy locals launched the now-famous Winter Carnival to incite a tourism boom.

Poor urban planning led to an exodus to the suburbs, leaving downtown depopulated and prone to crime. Things started to turn round in the 1990s, with the rejuvenation of the St-Roch neighborhood and diversification of the economy. Université Laval also moved some of its apartments downtown, bringing an influx of young students.

In 2008, Québec City threw a monumental bash in honor of its 400th anniversary, an expression of local pride that drew in tens of thousands of visitors and added several features to the city’s landscape, including new public green spaces along the St Lawrence River. The city's cultural scene continues to thrive with the opening of the Amphithéâtre du Québec in 2015 and the expansion of the Musée National des Beaux-Arts in 2016.

Hands-on History Hot Spots

Parc des Champs de Bataille (Montcalm)

Musée de la Place-Royale (Old Lower Town)

La Citadelle (Old Upper Town)

Musée de la Civilisation (Old Lower Town)

Arts

Visual Arts

Many artists have been bewitched by the beauty of Québec City and its surrounding countryside.

Jean-Paul Lemieux (1904–90) is one of Canada’s most accomplished painters. Born in Québec City, he studied at L’École des Beaux-Arts de Montréal and later in Paris. He is famous for his paintings of Québec’s vacant and endless landscapes and Quebecers’ relation to it. Many of his paintings are influenced by the simple lines of folk art. There’s a hall devoted to his art at the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec.

Alfred Pellan (1906–88) was another renowned artist who studied at the local École des Beaux-Arts before moving to Paris. He later became famous for his portraits, still lifes, figures and landscapes, before turning to surrealism in the 1940s.

Amsterdam-born Cornelius Krieghoff (1815–72) was acclaimed for chronicling the customs and clothes of Quebecers in his paintings. He is known especially for the portraits of the Wendats, who lived around Québec City.

Francesco Iacurto (1908–2001) was born in Montréal but moved to Québec City in 1938. His acclaimed works are dominated by the town’s streetscapes, landscapes and portrayals of Île d’Orléans.

Québec City Architectural Gems

Château Frontenac (Old Upper Town)

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Old Upper Town)

Hôtel du Parlement (Colline Parlementaire)

Église Notre-Dame-des- Victoires (Old Lower Town)

La Maison Henry-Stuart (Montcalm)

Music

Québec City has plenty to offer music lovers. The respected Orchestre Symphonique de Québec and the terrific Opéra de Québec both perform at Le Grand Théâtre de Québec between September and May. Some of the province’s biggest rock and pop music stars, such as Jean Leloup and Bruno Pelletier, also started out here, as did the politically charged hip-hop trio Loco Locass. There’s a brash and independent spirit among the eclectic mix of active bands here, but because the scene is so small, most musicians eventually relocate to Montréal for its thriving club scene and music industry ties. For the latest developments in local music, ask around at music stores like Sillons and clubs such as Le Cercle or Scanner, or check out entertainment listings at Voir Québec (www.voir.ca/quebec) and Québec Scope (www.quebecscope.com).

Literary Looks at Québec City

Shadows on the Rock (Willa Cather)

To Quebec and the Stars (HP Lovecraft)

Where the River Narrows (Aimee Laberge)

Bury Your Dead (Louise Penny)

Films

Below are some films in which Québec City gets center stage.

I Confess by Alfred Hitchcock (1953) Québec City has never looked better than when Hitchcock’s lens is caressing the city’s atmospheric Old World edges in this film-noirish suspense thriller based on a French play.

Les Plouffe by Gilles Carle (1981) Based on a novel by Roger Lemelin, this film depicts a family’s struggles in Depression-era Québec City.

Les Yeux Rouges (The Red Eyes) by Yves Simoneau (1982) A Québec City–set thriller with two cops on the trail of a deranged strangler.

Le Confessionnal (The Confessional) by Robert Lepage (1995) Sometimes retracing Hitchcock’s steps, Lepage builds a beautiful portrait of Québec City through a man’s quest to uncover a family secret.

Ma Vie en Cinémascope (Bittersweet Memories) by Denise Filiatrault (2004) Recounts the life story of singer Alys Robi, Québec’s first international superstar, brilliantly portrayed by Pascale Bussières.

Theater

Canada’s French-language TV and film industries are firmly based in Montréal, but Québec City’s active theater scene still holds its own – though its tight-knit nature cuts both ways. An actor here with a creative or original idea can write a script and have it produced – something that might take years, if it happened at all, in Montréal. On the other hand, plays produced here can’t always draw an audience in Montréal; to cite one famous example, the brilliant one-woman show Gros et Détail by Québec City actor Anne-Marie Olivier, about people in the St-Roch neighborhood, was a hit in Québec City, France and several countries in francophone Africa, yet when Olivier tried to get it produced in Montréal, she was rejected on the basis that it focused too much on Québec City.

In the performing arts realm, Québec City’s most famous native son is award-winning playwright and director Robert Lepage. While his best-known works feature Québec City, he has also achieved major international success, becoming the first North American to direct a Shakespeare play at London’s Royal National Theatre (1992’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream); directing Richard Wagner’s Ring Cycle for New York’s Metropolitan Opera in 2010–12; and creating two major touring shows for Cirque du Soleil (Kà and Totem). Recent projects closer to home include the 2013 film Triptyque (Lepage's first movie in 10 years); the Image Mill, a gigantic sound-and-light show exploring Québec City’s history, which was projected against oversized grain silos in the Vieux-Port between 2008 and 2013; and an ambitious project to build a $60 million, 625-seat new theater, Théâtre Le Diamant, just outside Québec City's old town walls.

The Québécois Ethos

Québec City has a reputation for being square and conservative (that is, at least from the Montréal perspective) and locals often refer to Québec City as a ‘village’ with equal parts affection and derision. Though it has all the big-city trappings, the core downtown population numbers under 200,000.

Although Québec City locals are very proud, there’s a time in many people’s lives, usually after high school or university, when they decide whether they are going to ‘try’ Montréal or stay put. As the ‘everything’ capital of French Canada, from arts and business to science, technology and media, Montréal exerts a considerable pull on ambitious Québec City natives. However, that means that those creative, dynamic people who ultimately choose to stay in Québec City do so because they really love the city and strongly identify with its unique culture.

Québec City is notorious in Montréal and the rest of Canada as a challenging place for outsiders to establish themselves in the long-term. With a near-homogenous French-Catholic population, community ties go way back. In fact, professional and social networks are often established by the end of high school. Even French-speaking Quebecers from elsewhere in the province say these networks are extremely difficult to penetrate.

Cultural Events

Québec City loves a good festival. Warm weather here lasts only a few short months, so locals make the most of it. In midsummer you’ll find residents celebrating in city parks and streets, especially on June 24, Québec's 'national' holiday, and during the fabulous 11-day Festival d’Été in July, when Québecois musicians share the stage with performing artists from around the globe.

Winter, the longest season, holds an equally special place in the hearts of Québec City residents. The annual 17-day Winter Carnival is perhaps Québec’s most beloved cultural event, presided over by Bonhomme de Neige, a giant snowman clad in a traditional Québecois hat and sash who has become one of the city's most beloved symbols. Local residents join Bonhomme in droves to celebrate the joys of the northern winter – staging ice canoe races across the St Lawrence River, horse-drawn sleigh competitions, colorful night parades, and rides for all ages on dog sleds, snow tubes and ice slides.

Québec City Media

Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph (www.qctonline.com) English newsweekly

Le Soleil (www.lapresse.ca/le-soleil) French daily

Le Journal de Québec (www.journaldequebec.com) French daily

Voir Québec (www.voir.ca/quebec) French entertainment weekly

Language

Montrealers and Québec City locals can easily recognize each other at parties just by their accents. Linguists consider Québec City’s accent to be purer and closer to international French, while Montréal’s accent is thicker and more prone to Anglicisms. Although Québec City has far fewer native English speakers than Montréal, children study English from primary school onwards. Even so, if you venture very far outside Québec City’s walls or into the surrounding countryside, you’ll find people who are not used to speaking or hearing much English.

Transportation

Arriving in Montreal

Arriving in Quebec City

Getting Around Montreal & Quebec City

Tours

Transportation

Arriving in Montréal

Most travelers arrive in Montréal by air. Located west of downtown, Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport has frequent connections to cities in the US, Europe, the Caribbean, Latin America, Africa and the rest of Canada. It’s easy to drive to Montréal from elsewhere in Canada or the US if you have the time, or take the train or intercity coach from cities such as Toronto or New York.

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO_2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO_2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Air

Montréal is served by Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport (www.admtl.com), known in French as Aéroport Montréal-Trudeau. It’s about 21km west of downtown and is the hub of most domestic, US and overseas flights. Trudeau Airport (still sometimes known by its old name, Dorval airport) has decent connections to the city by car and shuttle bus.

To/From the Airport

Bus

Bus 747, the cheapest way to get into town, takes 45 to 60 minutes. Buses run round the clock, leaving from just outside the arrivals hall and dropping passengers downtown at the Gare d’Autocars and the Berri-UQAM metro station, in the Quartier Latin. The $10 fare can be paid by Visa, MasterCard or cash at vending machines in the international arrivals area, or tickets may be bought on board (coins only, exact change). Your ticket gives you unlimited travel on Montréal's bus and metro network for 24 hours.

Car

Driving to or from downtown takes 20 to 30 minutes (allow an hour during peak times). As you exit the airport, follow signs for Autoroute 20 Est, which will take you into the heart of downtown along the main Autoroute Ville Marie (the 720).

Shuttle

Several hotels run shuttles from the airport to Downtown or further afield. Autocars Skyport (www.skyportinternational.com; 1-way/return $90/157) runs express shuttles to the Mont-Tremblant ski resort in winter and summer.

Taxi

It takes at least 20 minutes to get downtown from the airport and the fixed fare is $40. Limousine services ($55 to $60) are also available.

Bus

Most long-distance buses arrive at Montréal’s Gare d’Autocars ( GOOGLE MAP ; 895 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest; mBerri-UQAM).

If buying tickets here for other destinations in the province, allow about 45 minutes before departure; most advance tickets don’t guarantee a seat, so arrive early to line up at the counter.

LONG-DISTANCE BUS LINES

Galland Laurentides (%877-806-8666, 450-687-8666; www.galland-bus.com; 1717 Rue Berri) Provides bus service from Montréal to Mont-Tremblant and other destinations in the Laurentians.

Greyhound (www.greyhound.ca) Operates long-distance routes to Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Boston, New York City and other points throughout Canada and the United States.

Limocar (www.limocar.ca) Offers bus service from Montréal to the Eastern Townships.

Moose Travel Network (www.moosenetwork.com) Popular with backpackers, this network operates several circuits around Canada, allowing travelers to jump on and jump off along the way. Pickup points are in Montréal, Québec City, Ottawa and Toronto, among other places. Destinations within Québec include Mont-Tremblant and the Gaspé Peninsula.

Orléans Express (www.orleansexpress.com) Makes the three-hour run between Montréal and Québec City.

Train

Canada’s trains are arguably the most enjoyable and romantic way to travel the country. Long-distance trips are quite a bit more expensive than those by bus, however, and reservations are crucial for weekend and holiday travel. A few days’ notice can cut fares a lot.

Gare Centrale (Central Train Station; GOOGLE MAP ; 895 Rue de la Gauchetière Ouest) is the local hub of VIA Rail, Canada’s vast rail network, which links Montréal with cities all across the country.

Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) provides service between New York City and Montréal on its Adirondack line. The trip, though slow (11 hours), passes through lovely scenery along Lake Champlain and the Hudson River.

Arriving in Québec City

Québec City is a great weekend trip from Montréal, and many travelers arrive by car, bus, or rail. The drive is about three hours. VIA Rail’s trains take only slightly longer (3¼ hours).

Highway networks connect Québec’s capital with the rest of the province. Québec City has frequent air connections to Canadian and US destinations, as well as less-frequent flights to Mexico and the Caribbean.

Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO_2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO_2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Air

Québec City’s petite Aéroport International Jean-Lesage de Québec ( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-640-2700; www.aeroportdequebec.com; 505 Rue Principal) lies about 15km west of the center. It mostly has connections to Montréal, but there are also flights to Toronto, Ottawa, Chicago, Newark, New York City (JFK) and Caribbean resorts such as Cancún and Varadero. Check the website for additional destinations.

From the Airport

Car

It takes about 25 minutes to drive from Québec City's airport to the Old Town. The most straightforward route is to take Rte 540 S/Autoroute Duplessis, merge onto Rte 175 N, then follow this northeast as it changes names from Blvd Laurier to Rue Grand Alleé, crosses through the Old Town gate, and finally becomes Rue St-Louis.

Taxi

A taxi is your best option for travel between the airport and downtown Québec City, as there is no convenient public transportation along this route.

A taxi costs a flat fee of $34.25 to go into the city, or $15 if you’re only going to the boroughs surrounding the airport. Returning to the airport, you’ll pay the metered fare, which should be less than $30. Transport Accessible du Québec offers a transit service for people with disabilities.

Bus

Orléans Express (www.orleansexpress.com) runs daily services between Montréal’s main bus station, Gare d’Autocars, and Québec City’s Gare du Palais bus station. Prices for the journey (three to 3½ hours) start at $59/94 for a one-way/return ticket.

If you’re coming from Montréal, your bus may first stop 10km west of the center at Ste-Foy-Sillery Station (3001 Chemin des Quatre Bourgeois), so ask before you get off.

TRAVEL & DISABILITY

Nonprofit organization Kéroul (www.keroul.qc.ca) is dedicated to making travel more accessible to people with limited mobility. Its excellent guide The Accessible Road (www.larouteaccessible.com) covers Montréal, Québec City and 15 other tourism areas in Québec, highlighting access facilities in each.

Watch for the Tourist & Leisure Companion Sticker, which indicates free access to facilities for those traveling with people with a disability or mental illness. The website www.vatl.org has a full list of participating sites throughout Québec.

Car

Québec City lies about 260km northeast of Montréal (three hours by car). The most common routes are Autoroute 40 along the north shore of the St Lawrence River, and Autoroute 20, on the south shore.

Train

VIA Rail (www.viarail.ca) has several trains daily between Montréal’s Gare Centrale and Québec City’s Gare du Palais ( GOOGLE MAP ; 450 Rue de la Gare du Palais). Prices for the 3½-hour journey start at $87/173 for a one-way/return ticket.

Service is also good along the so-called Québec City–Windsor corridor that connects Québec City with Montréal, Ottawa, Kingston, Toronto and Niagara Falls.

Getting Around Montréal & Québec City

Bus & Metro

Montréal

STM (Société de Transport de Montréal; www.stm.info) is the city’s bus and metro (subway) operator. Schedules vary depending on the line, but trains generally run from 5:30am to midnight from Sunday to Friday, slightly later on Saturday night (to 1:30am at the latest).

A single bus or metro ticket costs $3.25. Two-ride tickets ($6) are also available in metro stations. If you're sticking around Montréal for longer, you'll save money by buying a rechargeable Opus card; the card costs $6 up front, but can be recharged at a discounted rate for 10 rides ($26.50), one day of unlimited rides ($10), three days ($18), a week ($25.50, Monday to Sunday) or a calendar month ($82).

Buses take tickets or cash but drivers won’t give change. If transferring from the metro to a bus, use your original metro ticket as a free bus transfer. If you’re switching between buses, or between bus and the metro, ask the driver for a free transfer slip (correspondance in French).

Québec City

White-and-blue city buses operated by RTC cost $3.25 with transfer privileges, or $7.50 for the day. Many buses serving the Old Town area stop at Pl d’Youville just outside the wall on Rue St-Jean. Buses 21 and 800 go to the Gare du Palais, the central long-distance bus and train station.

Bicycle

Montréal

Montréal’s bicycle paths are extensive, running more than 500km around the city. Useful bike maps are available from the tourist offices and bicycle rental shops.

Top bike paths follow the Canal de Lachine and then up along Lac St-Louis; another popular route goes southwest along the edge of the St Lawrence River, passing the Lachine Rapids, then meeting up with the Canal de Lachine path.

Bixi

One of the best ways to see the city is by the public bike-rental service Bixi (http://montreal.bixi.com; basic fees per 24/72hr $5/12, usage fees per 30/60/90min free/$1.75/3.50; h24hr mid-Apr–Oct). Short-term subscription fees allowing you to use the system for 24 or 72 hours are very reasonably priced, and the 400 rental stations are almost ubiquitous, spaced only a few blocks apart throughout the downtown area.

In Montréal, bicycles can be taken on the metro from 10am to 3pm and after 7pm Monday to Friday, as well as throughout the weekend. Officially cyclists are supposed to board only the first carriage of the train. In addition, eight of Montréal's city bus lines are equipped with bike racks, which may be used any time of day. See the STM website (www.stm.info) for details.

There are also bike paths around the islands of Parc Jean-Drapeau, the Île de Soeurs and Parc du Mont-Royal.

Bicycle Rental
Ça Roule Montréal Le Grand Cycle My Bicyclette

Québec City

Québec City has an extensive network of bike paths (some 70km in all), including a route along the St Lawrence which connects to paths along the Riviére St-Charles. Pick up a free map at the tourist office or at local bike shops.

Just across from Québec City's train station, Cyclo Services rents a wide variety of bikes, including hybrid, city, tandem, road and kids' models. They also organize cycling tours in the Québec City region.

Boat

Cruise vessels ply the St Lawrence River for day trips and longer cruises.
AML Cruises

St Lawrence Cruise LinesCRUISE

(%800-267-7868; www.stlawrencerivercruise.com)

Offers the three- to six-day Canadian Connection Cruise between Kingston, Ontario and Québec City.

CTMA GroupCRUISE

(%888-986-3278; www.ctma.ca)

Runs week-long cruises from Montréal to the picturesque Îles de la Madeleine in the Gulf of St Lawrence, with intermediate stops in Québec City and the Gaspé Peninsula.

Calèche

Montréal

The picturesque horse-drawn calèches (carriages) seen meandering around Old Montréal and Mont-Royal charge about $53/85 for a 30-/60-minute tour. They line up at the Old Port and at Pl d’Armes. Drivers usually provide running commentary, which can serve as a pretty good historical tour.

Québec City

In Québec City, calèches cost $90 for a 40-minute tour for up to four passengers. You’ll find them just inside the Porte St-Louis, in the Parc de l'Esplanade and near Le Château Frontenac.

Car & Motorcycle

Border Crossings

Continental US highways link with their Canadian counterparts along the border at numerous points. The main US highways leading directly into Québec include the I-87 in New York, I-89 and I-91 in Vermont, and US-201 in Maine. During summer and on holiday weekends, waits of several hours are not uncommon at major USA–Canada border crossings such as Detroit, Michigan; Windsor, Ontario; Fort Erie, Ontario; Buffalo, New York; Niagara Falls; and Rouse’s Point, New York. Smaller crossings are generally much quieter.

If you have difficulty with the French-only signs in Québec, pick up a decent provincial highway map, sold at service stations and usually free at tourist offices.

Visitors with US or British passports are allowed to bring their vehicles into Canada for up to six months.

Car Rental

Trudeau Airport has many international car-rental firms, and there’s a host of smaller operators in Montréal. Whether you’re here or in Québec City, rates will swing with demand so it’s worth phoning around to see what’s on offer. Advance bookings via online sites often offer the best rates, and airport rates are normally better than those in town.

To rent a car in the province of Québec you must be at least 21 years old and have had a driver’s license for at least a year.

Major companies usually have locations in both Montréal and Québec City.

AvisCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-866-2847; www.avis.ca; 1225 Rue Metcalfe)

BudgetCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.budget.ca)

Multiple locations, including Montréal's Gare Centrale.

Discount CarCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-286-1929; www.discountcar.com; 607 Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest)

Good, competitive rates. Canadian owned.

HertzCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-938-1717; www.hertz.ca; 1073 Rue Drummond)

Rent-a-WreckCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-484-3871; www.rentawreck.ca; 6340 Rue St-Jacques)

Often the best rates. In Montréal only.

Road Rules

AFines for traffic violations, from speeding to not wearing a seat belt, are stiff in Québec. You may see few police cars on the roads, but radar traps are common. Motorcyclists are required to wear helmets and to ride with their lights on.

ATraffic in both directions must stop when school buses stop to let children get off and on. At the white-striped pedestrian crosswalks, cars must stop to allow pedestrians to cross the road.

ATurning right on red lights is illegal in Montréal. However, it is legal everywhere else in Québec, including Québec City, as long as there is no sign posted specifically prohibiting such turns.

AIn both Montréal and Québec City, a flashing green light means that you are allowed to turn left (similar to a green left turn arrow in the United States).

AQuébec's blood-alcohol limit while driving is 0.08%, as opposed to the 0.05% limit in most other Canadian provinces. Driving motorized vehicles (including boats and snowmobiles) under the influence is a serious offense in Canada. You could land in jail with a court date, heavy fine and suspended license. The minimum drinking age is 18 – the same age as for obtaining a driver’s license.

AIn winter, parking on city streets is periodically prohibited to facilitate snow removal in both Montréal and Québec City. In Montréal, yellow and black signs marked 'Déneigement' (snow removal) or 'Opération Neige' indicate the hours when parking is prohibited (usually 7am to 7pm, or 7pm to 7am). In Québec City, snow removal is typically scheduled between 11pm and 6:30am on any street with a ‘déneigement’ sign accompanied by a flashing red light. Heed the signs, or you’ll wake up to a towed vehicle and a hefty fine.

AQuébec mandates that cars have snow tires on during winter.

Taxi

Flag fall is a standard $3.45, plus another $1.70 per kilometer and 63¢ per minute spent waiting in traffic. Prices are posted on the windows inside taxis. In Montréal try Taxi Champlain (%514-273-2435; www.taxichamplain.qc.ca) or Taxi Co-Op (%514-725-9885; www.taxi-coop.com). In Québec City, try Taxis Coop (%418-525-5191; www.taxiscoop-quebec.com).

Tours

Montréal

Fitz & FollwellBICYCLE TOUR

(%514-840-0739; www.fitzandfollwell.co; 115 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest)

Ranging from family-friendly city explorations to cycling tours of Montréal's brewpubs, this acclaimed bike shop’s tours take in Le Plateau Mont-Royal, the Old Port, the Canal de Lachine and other city highlights. It also offers walking tours and winter tours that incorporate skating, sledding and snowshoeing.

Amphi ToursBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-5181; www.montreal-amphibus-tour.com; 1hr tour adult/youth/child $35/25/18; hMay-Oct)

This brightly painted ‘amphibus’ tootles around Old Montréal before plunging into the St Lawrence for a cruise along the waterfront

GuidatourWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-4021; www.guidatour.qc.ca; hSat & Sun mid-May–mid-Jun, daily late Jun–mid-Oct, Sat only Dec)

In business for more than three decades, the experienced bilingual guides of Guidatour paint a picture of Old Montréal’s eventful history with anecdotes and legends. They also offer culinary tours, plus a 'Christmas Secrets of Old Montréal' tour in December.

Héritage MontréalWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-286-2662; www.heritagemontreal.org; tours $15; hSat & Sun Aug & Sep)

In August and September, this independent, nonprofit organization conducts ArchitecTours, a series of architecture-based tours that focus on a different neighborhood every week. The departure point varies; check the schedule online and show up early, as tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis.

Les Fantômes du Vieux-MontréalWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-844-4021; www.fantommontreal.com; 360 Rue St-François-Xavier; adult/youth $22/14.50)

Gives 90-minute evening tours tracing historic crimes and legends, led by guides in period costume. You’ll hear talk of hangings, sorcery, torture and other light bedtime tales on this good-time evening outing.

Québec City

Ghost Tours of QuébecCULTURAL TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-692-9770; www.ghosttoursofquebec.com; 34 Blvd Champlain; adult/youth/child under 10 $20/17/free; hEnglish tour 8pm May-Oct)

This lantern-lit, 90-minute walking tour of the Old Town, led by a guide in period costume, recounts a series of ghost stories and tales of murders and hauntings, providing a spooky perspective on Québec’s historic streets. Tours depart from 94 Rue du Petit Champlain in the Old Lower Town.

Tickets may be reserved by phone, online, or at Ghost Tours' office on Blvd Champlain.

Les Tours Voir QuébecWALKING TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %418-694-2001, 866-694-2001; www.toursvoirquebec.com; 12 Rue Ste-Anne; tours from $23)

This group offers excellent tours on the history, architecture and food of Québec City. The popular two-hour ‘grand tour’ takes in the Old City's highlights, while the food tour includes tastings of wines, cheeses, crepes, chocolate, maple products and other Québecois specialties at a variety of shops and restaurants. Reserve ahead.

Old Québec ToursBUS TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-267-8687, 418-664-0460; www.toursvieuxquebec.com)

This tour operator offers a variety of tours: walking tours of the Old City, double-decker bus tours, or out-of-town excursions to Montmorency Falls, Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans. It also offers whale-watching expeditions in summer.

Directory A–Z

Courses

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Emergency

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Medical Services

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Travelers with Disabilities

Visas

Directory A–Z

Courses

Cooking

Académie Culinaire du QuébecCOOKING COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-393-8111, 877-393-8111; www.academieculinaire.com; 360 Rue du Champ de Mars, Montréal; mChamp-de-Mars)

This esteemed cooking academy conducts regular cooking workshops and short courses encompassing classic French themes such as Parisian bistro cooking, sauces and artisanal baking, along with more international fare. Some classes at the main Montréal branch are offered in English. The Québec City branch (%418-780-2211; 2740 Blvd Laurier) has fewer courses, all in French.

Mezza Luna Cooking School

Language

Montréal

Concordia University Centre for Continuing EducationLANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-848-8600; www.concordia.ca; 1600 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest, Montréal; mGuy-Concordia)

Offers 40-hour conversational and written French courses from $320.

McGill University School of Continuing StudiesLANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-398-6200; www.mcgill.ca; 11th fl, 688 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montréal; mMcGill)

Year-round, accredited intensive and part-time courses in French.

Montréal International Language CentreLANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-363-3541, 514-939-4463; www.cilm.qc.ca; 2000 Rue Ste-Catherine Ouest, Montréal; mAtwater)

Tailor-made language courses at this offshoot of LaSalle University.

YMCALANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514-849-8393; www.ymcalanguages.ca; 5th fl, 1440 Rue Stanley, Montréal; mPeel)

Offers day and evening French courses as well as an intensive summer camp. The four- to seven-week sessions cost between $171 and $764.

Québec City

École de Langues de L’Université LavalLANGUAGE COURSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-656-2321; www.elul.ulaval.ca; 1030 Ave des Sciences-Humaines, Bureau 2301 2nd fl, Pavillon Charles-De Koninck)

Université Laval's Language School offers 15-week fall and winter courses or five-week spring and summer courses. You can be set up in accommodations with a Québecois family or stay in a campus residence.

Customs Regulations

For the latest customs information, contact the Canadian embassy or consulate at home, or go to the 'Visit as a Tourist' section of the Canadian government website (www.cic.gc.ca).

AAll fruit, vegetables and plants must be declared when crossing into Canada. For current restrictions, visit www.inspection.gc.ca.

AVisitors to Québec aged 18 and older can bring up to 8.5L of beer or ale, 1.5L of wine or 1.14L (40oz) of other liquor without paying duty or taxes. In addition, the following quantities of tobacco products may be brought into the country duty-free: 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, 200g of tobacco and 200 tobacco sticks. Individual gifts valued at $60 or less are also duty-free.

AUS residents may bring back $800 worth of goods duty-free, plus 1L of alcohol (but you must be aged 21 or over), as well as 200 cigarettes and 100 non-Cuban cigars.

Discount Cards

The Montréal Museums Pass allows free access to 39 museums for three days of your choice within a 21-day period ($75). For an extra $5, the pass comes with three consecutive days of free access to bus and metro. It’s available from the city’s tourist offices, or you can buy it online (www.museesmontreal.org).

Electricity

Emergency

Police, Ambulance, FirePOLICE

(%911)

Use the all-purpose emergency number 911 to call an ambulance, report a fire, or request immediate police assistance.

Québec Poison Control CentreDOCTOR

(Centre Antipoison du Québec; %1800-463-5060)

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

Fugues (www.fugues.com) is the free, French-language, authoritative monthly guide to the gay and lesbian scene for the province of Québec. It’s an excellent place to find out about the latest clubs and gay-friendly accommodations.

Montréal is a popular getaway for lesbian, gay and bisexual travelers. The gay community is centered in the Village, and it’s huge business. The weeklong Montréal Pride attracts hundreds of thousands every August, while the Black & Blue Festival (%514-875-7026; www.bbcm.org) in early October features major dance parties along with cultural and arts events.

Québec City's gay community, while smaller, is also well established, with its own pride festival, the Fête Arc-en-Ciel, in early September and a handful of popular nightspots along Rue St-Jean.

Gays and lesbians are generally well integrated into Montréal life. In neighborhoods such as the Plateau, for example, two men holding hands in public will scarcely raise an eyebrow. By contrast, Québec City tends to be a bit more conservative, and open displays of affection between same-sex couples may attract more attention.

Montreal Gay & Lesbian Community Centre & Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-528-8424; www.ccglm.org; 2075 Rue Plessis; h1-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Wed; mBeaudry) has been around since 1988 and provides an extensive library and loads of info on the city’s gay and lesbian scene.

Internet Access

Wi-fi is widely available throughout Montréal and Québec City, at tourist offices, hotels, cafes and many restaurants. Except in a few high-end hotels, it's generally free of charge.

For a map of hundreds of places where you can get online for free in Montréal, see Île Sans Fil (www.ilesansfil.org). For info on free wi-fi hot spots elsewhere in the province of Québec, including Québec City, visit Zap Québec (www.zapquebec.org).

If you’re not traveling with a computer, many hotels have one available for guests.

Legal Matters

If you’re charged with an offense, you have the right to public counsel if you can’t afford a lawyer.

Generally speaking, it’s an offense to consume alcohol anywhere other than at a residence or licensed premises, which technically puts parks, beaches and the rest of the great outdoors off-limits. Montréal has sidestepped this restriction with a city ordinance that allows for alcohol to be 'consumed in a park with a meal'; even so, it's best to be discreet, and bear in mind that disturbance of the peace or loitering in any park between 11pm and sunrise remains a criminal offense.

Maps

If you’re going to explore Montréal or Québec City in detail – and prefer to use something other than smartphone maps or guidebook maps – you can get detailed maps online from Mapart (www.mapartmaps.com) and at Aux Quatre Points Cardinaux.

Medical Services

Canadian health care is excellent but it’s not free to visitors, so be sure to get travel insurance before you leave home.

Canada has no reciprocal health care with other countries and nonresidents will have to pay up front for treatment (often in cash) and wait for the insurance payback.

Medical treatment is pricey (less so by US comparison), and long waits – particularly in the emergency room – are common. Avoid going to the hospital if possible.

Clinics

If you’re sick and need some advice, call Québec's provincial Health Hotline (%811), which is staffed by nurses 24 hours a day.

For minor ailments in Montréal, visit the CLSC (Centre Local de Services Communautaires; GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-0354; www.santemontreal.qc.ca/en; 1801 Blvd de Maisonneuve Ouest; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri; mGuy-Concordia) clinic downtown. In Québec City, visit the CLSC de la Haute-Ville ( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-641-2572; www.csssvc.qc.ca; 55 Chemin Sainte-Foy; h8am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun).

Emergency Rooms

Montréal

Montréal General HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-1934; www.muhc.ca/mgh; 1650 Ave Cedar, Montréal; mGuy-Concordia)

MUHC Glen HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %514-934-1934; www.muhc.ca; 1001 Blvd Décarie; mVendôme)

Montréal's brand-new, state-of-the-art emergency hospital, affiliated with McGill University Health Centre, opened in April 2015. This is the best option for English-speaking patients.

Québec City

Hôpital LavalHOSPITAL

(%418-654-2114; www.chuq.qc.ca; 2705 Blvd Laurier, Ste-Foy)

Affiliated with Université Laval, this emergency facility is 9km southwest of the center.

L'Hôtel-Dieu de QuébecHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-691-5042, 418-525-4444; www.chuq.qc.ca; 11 Côte du Palais)

Québec City's oldest and most centrally located hospital.

Pharmacies

The big pharmacy chains are Pharmaprix (www.pharmaprix.ca) and Jean Coutu (www.jeancoutu.com). Some branches stay open late.

Money

ATMs

Montréal and Québec City have droves of ATMs linked to the international Cirrus, Plus and Maestro networks, not only in banks but also in pubs, convenience stores and hotels. Many charge a small fee per use, and your own bank may levy an extra fee – it’s best to check before leaving home.

Changing Money

The main shopping streets in Montréal, including Rue Ste-Catherine, Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis, have plenty of banks. There are also foreign-exchange desks at the main tourist office, the airport and the casino.

Opening Hours

Banks Most open 10am to 3pm Monday to Friday (later on Thursday).

Bars & Pubs Many open from 11:30am until midnight or longer; those that don’t serve food may not open until 5pm or later.

Government Offices Generally open 9am to 5pm weekdays.

Museums Most open 10am or 11am and close by 6pm. Most close Monday but stay open late one day a week (typically Wednesday or Thursday).

Post Offices Open 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday.

Restaurants Generally open 11:30am to 2:30pm and 5:30pm to 11pm; cafes serving breakfast open between 7am and 9am.

Tourist Attractions In Québec City and outside Montréal most attractions shut down or operate sporadic hours outside busy summer months.

Post

Standard 1st-class airmail letters or postcards up to 30g cost 85¢ within Canada, $1.20 to the US and $2.50 to all other destinations. For general information, contact Canada Post (Postes Canada; %416-979-3033, 866-607-6301; www.canadapost.ca).

Montréal’s main post office is the largest but there are many convenient locations around town. In Québec City, the post office in the Upper Town is conveniently located near the main tourist sites and offers the biggest selection of postal services, including a philatelic counter.

Stamps are also available at newspaper shops, convenience stores and some hotels.

PRACTICALITIES

ASmoking is prohibited in all enclosed spaces such as restaurants, bars and clubs. Many people light up on outdoor patios.

ALocal currency is Canadian dollars ($). Canadian coins come in 1¢ (penny), 5¢ (nickel), 10¢ (dime), 25¢ (quarter), $1 (loonie) and $2 (toonie) pieces. Paper currency comes in $5 (blue), $10 (purple), $20 (green) and $50 (red) denominations.

AA tip of 15% of the pretax bill is customary in restaurants. Most credit-card machines in Québec will calculate the tip based on the percentage you specify, or allow you to tip an amount of your choice. If tipping cash, leave the tip on the table or hand it directly to staff.

ACanada uses the metric system. Distances are stated in kilometers, and measurements such as height and weight are usually expressed in kilograms, meters and centimeters.

Public Holidays

Banks, schools and government offices close on Canadian public holidays, while museums and other services go on a restricted schedule. This is also a busy time to travel.

Residential leases in Montréal traditionally end on June 30, so the roads are always clogged on July 1 (semiofficially known as Moving Day) as tenants move to their new homes.

School students break for summer holidays in late June and return to school in early September. University students get even more time off, breaking from May to early or mid-September. Most people take their big annual vacation during this summer period. Schools also break in late February or early March for the semaine de relâche (winter break); ski areas near Montréal and Québec City may get more crowded during this period.

The main public holidays:

New Year’s Day January 1

Good Friday & Easter Monday Late March to mid-April

Victoria Day May 24 or nearest Monday

National Aboriginal Day June 21 (unofficial)

St-Jean-Baptiste Day June 24

Canada Day July 1

Labour Day First Monday in September

Canadian Thanksgiving Second Monday in October

Remembrance Day November 11

Christmas Day December 25

Boxing Day December 26

Safe Travel

AViolent crime is rare (especially involving foreigners). Even so, as in all big cities, it's best to stay alert for petty theft and use hotel safes where available.

ACars with foreign registration are occasionally targeted for smash-and-grab theft. As in any big city, don’t leave valuables in the car.

ATake special care at pedestrian crosswalks in Montréal: unless there’s an arrêt (stop) sign, drivers largely ignore these crosswalks.

AIt is illegal in Canada to carry pepper spray or mace. Instead, some women recommend carrying a whistle to deal with attackers or potential dangers. If you are sexually assaulted, call 911 or the local Sexual Assault Center (%in Montréal 514-398-8500, in Québec City 418-522-2120) for referrals to hospitals that have sexual-assault care centers.

Telephone

The area code for the entire island of Montréal is 514; Québec City is 418. When you dial, even local numbers, you will need to punch in the area code as well.

Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 866, 877 or 888 and must be preceded with 1. Some numbers are good throughout North America, others only within Canada or one particular province.

Dialing the operator (0) or the emergency number (911) is free of charge from both public and private phones. For directory assistance, dial 411. Fees apply.

With the advent of cell phones, public phones have become a rarity. When you do find them they will either be coin-operated (local calls cost 50¢) or accept phone cards and credit cards.

Cell Phones

The only foreign cell phones that will work in North America are triband models operating on GSM 1900. If you don’t have one of these, your best bet is to buy an inexpensive phone with prepaid minutes and a rechargeable SIM card at a consumer electronics store such as Best Buy (www.bestbuy.ca).

US residents traveling with their phone may have service (though they’ll pay roaming fees). Get in touch with your cell-phone provider for details.

Phone Cards

Bell Canada’s prepaid cards, in denominations of $5, $10 and $20, work from public and private phones. There are also plenty of local phone cards offering better rates than Bell’s, sold at convenience stores, newsstands and websites such as www.thephonecardstore.ca.

Time

Montréal is on Eastern Time (EST/EDT), as is New York City and Toronto – five hours behind Greenwich Mean Time.

Canada switches to daylight-saving time (one hour later than Standard Time) from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Train schedules, film screenings and schedules in French use the 24-hour clock (eg 6:30pm becomes 18:30) while English schedules use the 12-hour clock.

Tourist Information

Québec's province-wide tourist bureau, Tourisme Québec (%877-266-5687; www.tourisme.gouv.qc.ca), operates tourist offices (known as Centres Infotouristes) in both Montréal and Québec City. Offices in both cities share a central phone number and website.

Both cities' airports also have information kiosks that open year-round.

Centre Infotouriste MontréalTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-266-5687, 514-873-2015; www.tourisme-montreal.org; 1255 Rue Peel; h8:30am-7pm; mPeel)

Information about Montréal and all of Québec. Free hotel, tour and car reservations, plus currency exchange.

Tourist Welcome Office - Old MontréalTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tourism-montreal.org; 174 Rue Notre-Dame Est; h9am-7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm May & Oct; mChamp-de-Mars)

Just off bustling Pl Jacques-Cartier, this helpful little office is always humming.

Centre Infotouriste - Québec CityTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %418-649-2608, 877-266-5687; www.bonjourquebec.com; 12 Rue Ste-Anne; h9am-5pm Nov-Jun, to 7pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm Sep & Oct)

Québec City's main tourist office, in the heart of the Old Town, opposite Château Frontenac.

Travelers with Disabilities

In Montréal, most public buildings – including tourist offices, major museums and attractions – are wheelchair accessible, and many restaurants and hotels also have facilities for the mobility-impaired. Almost all major bus routes are serviced by NOVA LFS buses adapted for wheelchairs, and eight metro stations on the Orange Line have elevators, making them accessible to manual and motorized wheelchairs with a maximum length of 46" and a maximum width of 26". Visit www.stm.info/en/access for information about boarding procedures on both the metro and the adapted buses.

In Québec City, bus lines 21, 800, 801, 802 and 803 are wheelchair accessible. The 'Accessibility' section of the www.rtcquebec.ca website has more details.

Access to Travel (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca) provides details of accessible transportation across Canada.

KéroulTOURIST INFORMATION

(%514-252-3104; www.keroul.qc.ca)

Has detailed information about accessible travel on its website, offers packages for disabled travelers going to Québec and Ontario, and publishes Québec Accessible, listing hotels, restaurants and attractions throughout the province.

VIA RailTRAIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.viarail.ca)

Accommodates people in wheelchairs with 48 hours’ notice. Services on board the train include wheelchair tie-downs, grab bars in washrooms and narrow wheelchairs for boarding, detraining and accessing the washrooms. Details are available at Montréal’s Gare Centrale and Québec City’s Gare du Palais, or on the Accessibility page of the VIA Rail website.

Transport Accessible du QuébecSHUTTLE

(%418-641-8294; www.taq.qc.ca)

Wheelchair-adapted vans available. Make reservations at least 24 hours in advance.

Transport Adapté du Québec Métro IncSHUTTLE

(%418-687-2641)

Has 20 wheelchair-adapted minibuses that carry passengers to sections of Québec City not served by the public RTC buses. You must make reservations at least eight hours in advance of your trip.

Visas

Citizens of dozens of countries – including the USA, most Western European countries, Australia, Japan and New Zealand – don’t need visas to enter Canada for stays of up to 180 days. US permanent residents are also exempt.

Nationals of around 150 other countries, including South Africa and China, must apply to the Canadian visa office in their home country for a temporary resident visa (TRV). See www.cic.gc.ca for full details.

Single-entry visitor visas are valid for six months, while multiple-entry visas can be used for up to 10 years, provided that no single stay exceeds six months. Either type of visa costs $100. Extensions cost the same price as the original and must be applied for at a Canadian Immigration Center one month before the current visa expires. A separate visa is required if you intend to work in Canada.

Language

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

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Our Readers

Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints,useful advice and interesting anecdotes: AdrianToutoungi, Denise Crawford, Elizabeth Johnson,Henry Luiker, Jean-Marc East, Jeff Jones, JimFloyd, Marc Bartschat, Michael Graupner, NoamSchimmel, Sabrina Olender.

Author Thanks

Regis St Louis

Although I researched my sections duringthe coldest days of the year, the warmth and kindness of locals and friends made up for the polar temperatures. Special thanks to Catherine Binette and Patricia Maunder for extensive city insight, and the many Quebecers who shared tips: Jaaron, Roberto, Sarah,Emily, Saman, Isabelle and Jeremy. Thanks also to Thibault and Marine for their kind hospitality, and Gregor for a fun meet-up on the road. Big thanks to Cassandra, Magda and Genevieve, who make homecomings the best part of travel.

Gregor Clark

Un grand merci to the many people who shared their love and knowledge of Québec with me, especially Lucien and Daniel Beaumont and Catherine Binette. Back home, big hugs to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who helped me immeasurably in exploring Québec City’s wintry streets and honing my skills on the ice slides at Winter Carnival.

Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Basilique Notre-Dame,Montréal, Walter Bibikow/AWL.

Montréal Metro map: Société de transportde Montréal (STM). © STM 2015

This Book

This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Montréal & Québec City guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis and Gregor Clark. The previous two editions were written by Timothy N Hornyak, Gregor Clark, Regis St Louis and Simona Rabinovitch. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Alexander Howard

Product Editors Elizabeth Jones, Luna Soo

Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison

Book Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors Sarah Billington, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Kellie Langdon,Gabrielle Stefanos

Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzie

Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Ryan Evans, Anne Mason, Wayne Murphy, Martine Power, Diana Saengkham, Angela Tinson, Amanda Williamson

Ebook thanks to Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

Montreal & Quebec City Maps

Map Index

Old Montreal

Downtown (West)

Downtown (East)

Quartier Latin & the Village

Plateau Mont-Royal

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

Parc Jean-Drapeau

City Maps

Old Montréal

1Top Sights

1Basilique Notre-DameC4

1Sights

2Bank of MontrealC3

3Centre des Sciences de MontréalD5

4Centre d'Histoire de MontréalB5

5Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-BonsecoursF4

6Château RamezayF4

7Cours Le RoyerD4

8CourthousesD4

9Fonderie DarlingA6

10Guardian Trust BuildingC4

11Hôtel de VilleE4

12Lieu Historique de Sir George-Étienne-CartierG4

13Marché BonsecoursF4

14Mariners' HouseC5

15Molson Bank BuildingB4

16Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire Pointe-à-CallièreC5

17Musée des Soeurs-GrisesB6

18New York Life BuildingD4

19Old Customs HouseC5

20Palais des CongrèsC3

21Parc du Bassin BonsecoursG6

22PHI CenterB5

23Place d'ArmesC4

24Place Jacques-CartierE4

25Place Jean-Paul-RiopelleB3

26Place RoyaleC5

27Quai Alexandra & AroundC6

28Quai Jacques-Cartier & AroundF5

29Royal Bank BuildingB4

30Rue de la CommuneF4

31Rue de l'Hôpital & AroundC4

32Rue St-JacquesB4

33Rue St-PaulD5

34Sailors' Memorial Clock TowerH5

35Vieux Séminaire de St-SulpiceC4

5Eating

36BarrocoB5

37BeijingD2

38BevoE4

39BocataC5

40Boris BistroB4

41BremnerF4

42Café DifféranceB3

43Café Santé VeritasD4

44Da EmmaA7

45GandhiC5

46Garde-MangerC5

47Gibby'sB5

48Hoang OanhD2

49La Maison Kam FungD2

50Le CartetB6

51Le Club Chasse et PêcheF4

52Le LocalA5

Le SerpentA6

53Little Sheep Hot PotD2

54L'OrignalB4

55Mai Xiang YuanD2

56Noodle FactoryD2

57Olive + GourmandoB5

58Orange RougeC2

59Pho Bang New YorkD2

60Restaurant HolderB5

61SoupeSoupA6

62Stash CaféC5

63Tapas, 24B4

64TitanicB4

65Toqué!B3

6Drinking & Nightlife

66Club PeoplB4

67FlyjinB5

68L'AssommoirC4

69Le ConfessionnalB5

70Le Mal NecessaireD2

71Les Soeurs GrisesB6

72LuwanD2

73PhilémonD5

74Pub St-PaulE4

Taverne GasparE5

Terrasse NelliganD5

Terrasse Place d'ArmesD3

75VelvetE4

76WunderbarB3

3Entertainment

77Centaur TheatreC4

78Cinéma IMAX du Centre des Sciences de MontréalD5

79Cirque du SoleilF6

7Shopping

Boutique Anne de ShallaF4

80DHC ArtC4

81Espace PepinB5

82Galerie Le ChariotE4

83Galerie St-DizierD5

Marché BonsecoursF4

84My Cup of TeaD2

85RooneyB4

86U&IC5

87Zone OrangeB5

2Sports & Activities

88Académie Culinaire du QuébecF3

89AML CruisesE6

90Amphi ToursD5

91Ça Roule MontréalE5

92GuidatourC4

93Le Bateau MoucheF5

94Le Petit NavireE5

95Les Fantômes du Vieux-MontréalC5

96Luna YogaB5

97Patinoire du Bassin BonsecoursG5

98Plage de l'HorlogeH5

4Sleeping

99Auberge AlternativeB5

100Auberge BonaparteC4

101Auberge BonsecoursF4

102Auberge du Vieux-PortE5

103Auberge St-PaulF4

104ÉpikC5

105Hôtel GaultB4

106Hôtel Le St-JamesB4

107Hôtel NelliganD5

108Hôtel St-PaulB5

109InterContinental MontréalB3

110L HotelB4

111La ConciergerieG2

112La Maison Pierre du CalvetF4

113Le Petit HôtelC5

114Le Place d'ArmesD3

City Maps

Downtown (West)

1Top Sights

1Musée des Beaux-Arts de MontréalG4

1Sights

2Centre Canadien d'ArchitectureD5

Chalet du Mont-RoyalG1

3Church of St James the ApostleF5

4Gare WindsorG7

5Le ChâteauG4

6Marché AtwaterA8

Montréal Canadiens Hall of FameG6

7Parc du Mont-RoyalG1

8Parisian LaundryA6

9Westmount SquareB4

5Eating

10BoustanG4

11Cafe AunjaF4

12Chez NickA3

13ImadakeC5

14Joe BeefB8

15KazuE5

16Le Vin PapillonB8

17Mango BayF5

Marché AtwaterA8

18MyriadeF5

19PatriceC8

20PhayathaiF5

21ThaliE5

6Drinking & Nightlife

22BrutopiaG5

23Burgundy LionB8

24Hurley's Irish PubG5

25McKibbin'sF5

26Sir Winston Churchill PubG4

27UpstairsF5

3Entertainment

28Bell CentreG6

29SharxF5

7Shopping

30Candy LabsF4

31Holt RenfrewG4

32Les Antiquités Grand CentralB8

33Salvation ArmyE8

2Sports & Activities

34Concordia University Centre for Continuing EducationF5

Montréal CanadiensG6

35Montréal International Language CentreD5

4Sleeping

36Au Coeur UrbainD2

37Château VersaillesE4

38HI Montréal International Youth HostelF6

39Hôtel Y MontréalG6

40Les Bons MatinsF6

41Loew's Hotel VogueG5

42Ritz-CarltonG4

City Maps

Downtown (East)

1Sights

1Cathédrale Christ ChurchC5

2Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-MondeB6

3Galeries d'Art Contemporain du BelgoD5

4Illuminated CrowdB4

5Maison AlcanA4

6Maison du Festival Rio Tinto AlcanE5

7McGill UniversityB3

8Musée d'Art ContemporainE5

9Musée McCordC4

10Musée RedpathB3

11Place des ArtsE4

12Place du CanadaB6

13Place Ville-MarieC5

14Rue Sherbrooke OuestA4

15Rue Ste-Catherine OuestB5

16Square DorchesterB5

17Square VictoriaD7

18St James United ChurchD5

19St Patrick's BasilicaD6

5Eating

20Bistro IsakayaE3

21Café ParvisD4

22Ferreira CaféA4

23FoodlabF5

24FurusatoE3

25JatobaC5

26Le Balsam InnB5

27Le TajA4

28Lola RosaD2

29Pikolo Espresso BarE3

30Reuben'sA5

6Drinking & Nightlife

31BeneluxE3

32BiiruD5

33Bleury Bar à VinyleE4

34Club SodaF5

35Dominion Square TavernB5

36FurcoD4

37House of JazzD4

38Le Vieux Dublin Pub & RestaurantC5

39NYKSD5

40Pub Ste-ÉlisabethG5

41PullmanE3

3Entertainment

42Cinéma Banque Scotia MontréalB5

43Cinéma du ParcE2

44Foufounes ÉlectriquesG5

45I Musici de MontréalG3

L'AstralE5

Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de MontréalE4

46MetropolisG5

47Monument NationalF5

Opéra de MontréalE4

Orchestre MétropolitainF4

48Orchestre Symphonique de MontréalF4

Place des ArtsE4

49Pollack Concert HallC3

50SalsathèqueA5

51SATF5

7Shopping

52Eva BF4

53Henri HenriG5

54Hudson Bay CoC5

55Les Cours Mont-RoyalB4

56Place Montréal TrustB4

57RootsB5

2Sports & Activities

Ashtanga Yoga StudioD5

58AtriumB7

59Héritage MontréalG3

60McGill University School of Continuing StudiesC4

61Montréal AlouettesD1

62YMCAA4

4Sleeping

63Alacoque B&B RevolutionF3

64Armor Manoir SherbrookeG3

65Castel DurocherD3

66Hotel 10F3

67Hotel BonaventureB7

68Hotel Parc SuitesE3

69Hotel Zero 1F6

70La CitadelleD3

71L'Abri du VoyageurF5

72Le Gîte du Plateau Mont-RoyalG2

73Manoir AmbroseA3

74SofitelA3

75Trylon ApartmentsE3

76University Bed & Breakfast ApartmentsC2

City Maps

Quartier Latin & the Village

1Top Sights

1Rue St-DenisB2

1Sights

2Bibliothèque et Archives Nationale du QuébecC3

3Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-LourdesC4

4Écomusée du Fier MondeD1

5Église St-Pierre-ApôtreE4

6Rue Ste-Catherine EstD3

7Université du Québec à MontréalB4

5Eating

81000 GrammesE4

9Au Petit ExtraF2

10Juliette et ChocolatB3

11KitchenetteE4

12Le CE2

13Le Grain de SelH4

14Ma'TineE3

15O'ThymD3

16SaloonE3

6Drinking & Nightlife

17ApollonE4

18B1 BarB2

19CircusD4

20Club Date Piano-BarD4

21Le Cheval BlancC2

22Le Magellan BarB2

23Le Saint SulpiceB3

24Le Saint-BockB2

25L'Île NoireB3

26Loup GarouB2

27Randolph PubB2

28Sky Pub & ClubE4

29StereoC4

30StudF4

31UnityD3

3Entertainment

32Bistro à JojoB3

33Cabaret MadoD3

34Cinéma Quartier LatinB3

35Cinémathèque QuébécoiseB3

36Le NationalD4

37Théâtre St-DenisB3

38Théâtre Ste-CatherineB4

39Usine CE2

7Shopping

40ArchambaultC4

41Aux Quatre Points CardinauxC2

42Boutique SpoutnikD1

43Camellia SinensisB3

44Marché St-JacquesD2

45PriapeE3

46ZéphyrD1

4Sleeping

47Alexandre LoganE3

48Alexandrie MontrealD2

49AtmosphereE2

50Au Gît'annC2

51Auberge Le Jardin d'AntoineB2

52Héritage VictorienB2

53Hostel Montréal CentralC3

54Hôtel de ParisC1

55Hôtel St-DenisB4

56La Loggia Art & BreakfastD3

57Le Gîte du Parc LaFontaineD1

58Le Relais LyonnaisB3

59M MontrealC4

60Montréal Espace ConfortB2

61Studios du Quartier LatinC2

62Turquoise B&BE3

63UQAM ResidencesB4

City Maps

Plateau Mont-Royal

1Sights

1Avenue du Mont-RoyalE2

2Boulevard St-LaurentC4

3Carré St-LouisD7

4Église St-Jean-BaptisteD4

5Georges-Étienne Cartier MonumentA4

6Parc du PortugalC3

7Parc La FontaineG5

5Eating

8Au Festin de BabetteD4

9Au Pied de CochonE5

10Beauty'sB2

11Cafe NévéC4

12Café SantropolB5

13Chez JoséC5

14Espace La FontaineG5

15Flocon EspressoE2

16HàA2

17Hof KelstenB2

18JanoC5

19Kouign AmmanD2

20La BanquiseF4

21La Sala RosaB1

22L'AvenueF2

23Le FiletA2

24Les Trois Petits BouchonsD1

25L'ExpressD5

26L'Gros LuxeE6

MariusG4

27Moineau MasquéF3

28OmnivoreC3

29Patati PatataC4

30PintxoD6

31ReplikaD4

32Robin des BoisC1

33RomadosC4

34Saka-Ba!G2

35Schwartz'sC5

36St-Viateur Bagel & CaféF2

37Sushi MomoC5

6Drinking & Nightlife

38Apt 200C6

39BarflyB4

40Bières & CompagnieD3

41BifteckB6

42Big in JapanC4

43Bily KunD2

44BlizzartsB5

45Else'sC6

46Le LabG4

47Les FoliesE2

48MajestiqueC4

49Plan BD2

50ReservoirC5

51SuWuC7

3Entertainment

52Agora de la DanseE7

53Casa del PopoloC1

54Dièse OnzeD3

55Ex-Centris CinemaB7

56Le Divan OrangeB4

57Mainline TheatreC5

O Patro VysD2

7Shopping

58ArtpopC2

59Aux 33 ToursG2

60Coffre aux Trésors du ChainonC3

61DuoB7

62Friperie St-LaurentB5

63HadioD2

64IbikiC3

65La Tablette de Miss ChocoE2

66Le 63C2

67Librairie Michel FortinD6

68ScandaleC7

2Sports & Activities

69Aveda Montréal Lifestyle Salon Spa & AcademyC7

70Fitz & FollwellB2

71La Maison des CyclistesG4

72Le Grand CycleE6

73Studio BlissC6

4Sleeping

74Anne Ma Soeur AnneD4

75Au Piano BlancE2

76Auberge De La FontaineG4

77Bienvenue B&BC5

78Gingerbread ManorD7

79Hôtel de l'InstitutD7

80Kutuma Hotel & SuitesD6

81Le GîteC7

82Le Lit au CarréD6

83Le Rayon VertE3

84ShézellesE3

City Maps

Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont

1Sights

1Église Madonna Della DifesaF2

2Église St-Viateur d'OutremontC8

3Marché Jean-TalonF1

4Parc OutremontB7

5Parc St ViateurC6

5Eating

6Alati-CasertaF2

7Arts CafeD7

8Café OlimpicoD6

9Caffè ItaliaE2

10Cardinal Tea RoomE7

11Comptoir 21E6

12Dépanneur Le Pick UpD2

13Fairmount BagelE8

14FortuneE3

15ImpastoE2

16Invitation VD5

17Juliette et ChocolatD8

18Kitchen GalerieE1

19La Croissanterie FigaroC7

20La Panthère VerteF6

21LawrenceE7

22Le BilboquetB5

23Le Cagibi CaféE6

24Le Petit AlepF1

25LeméacC8

26Lester'sC5

27PhayathaiE8

28Pizzeria NapoletanaF2

29SparrowE7

30St-Viateur BagelD6

31Van HorneB4

32Wilensky's Light LunchE8

6Drinking & Nightlife

33Baldwin BarmacieD8

34Bar Sans NomD7

35Chez SergeE7

36DatchaE8

37Dieu du CielE8

38GainzbarG4

39KabinetE8

40La Buvette Chez SimoneD8

41Notre Dame des QuillesE4

42Ping Pong ClubE5

43Vice VersaE3

3Entertainment

44Théâtre OutremontB5

45Théâtre RialtoD5

7Shopping

46Au Papier JaponaisE8

47Drawn & QuarterlyD5

48Frank & OakF6

49Galerie COE7

50Galerie Simon BlaisE7

51Jet-SetterE8

52Le Marché des Saveurs du QuébecF2

53Les TouilleursD8

54MonastirakiE6

55PhonopolisD6

56PhonopolisD5

57Quincaillerie DanteE2

58Style LaboE6

59Un Amour des ThésB5

60V de V MaisonE8

2Sports & Activities

61Mezza Luna Cooking SchoolE2

62OvariumG4

City Maps

Parc Jean-Drapeau

1Sights

1BiosphèreC2

2Île Notre-DameB3

3La RondeD1

4L'HommeB2

5Musée StewartC1

6Parc Jean-DrapeauC2

5Eating

7Hélène de ChamplainC2

La Cabane Chez JeanA4

Le Pavillon 67B3

3Entertainment

8Casino de MontréalB3

Piknic ÉlectronikB2

2Sports & Activities

9Complexe AquatiqueB2

10Olympic BasinC2

11Plage des ÎlesA4

12Stand-Up PaddleboardsA3

TTS MontréalA3

City Maps

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers

Regis St Louis

Coordinating Author A long-time admirer of the free-spirited ethos that rules Québec, Regis has fallen hard for Montréal. He never tires of exploring the city’s tree-lined neighborhoods, munching his way through its markets and cycling its many bike lanes. On this recent trip, he experienced Montréal’s coldest February in history (what’s -20C among friends?), joined the all-night revelry of Nuit Blanche and admired enchanting wintry landscapes in city parks. Regis has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including a previous edition of Montréal & Québec City. When not exploring the back lanes of Québec, he resides in Brooklyn, New York.

Gregor Clark

Québec City, Day Trips from Montréal A lifelong Francophile and a resident of neighboring Vermont, Gregor has long been smitten with Québec and regularly hops across the border for doses of French-Canadian culture. Québec City remains one of his favorite North American cities (alongside San Francisco). He especially enjoyed sharing Winter Carnival with family while researching this edition. Gregor has written three dozen Lonely Planet guides since 2000, mostly focused on Europe and Latin America. He also wrote the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this guide.

Read more about Gregor at:auth.lonelyplanet.com/profi les/gregorclark

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

4th edition - November 2015

ISBN 9781760340025

© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.