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Viewing cable 06DARESSALAAM1397, AGOA: TANZANIA'S TEXTILE SECTOR AND SUPPORT FOR

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Reference ID Created Released Classification Origin
06DARESSALAAM1397 2006-08-16 14:57 2011-08-25 00:00 UNCLASSIFIED Embassy Dar Es Salaam
VZCZCXRO5070
PP RUEHBZ
DE RUEHDR #1397/01 2281457
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
P 161457Z AUG 06
FM AMEMBASSY DAR ES SALAAM
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC PRIORITY 4602
INFO RUEHUJA/AMEMBASSY ABUJA PRIORITY 0100
RUEHDS/AMEMBASSY ADDIS ABABA PRIORITY 3035
RUEHAN/AMEMBASSY ANTANANARIVO PRIORITY 0070
RUEHBP/AMEMBASSY BAMAKO PRIORITY 0035
RUEHJL/AMEMBASSY BANJUL PRIORITY 0199
RUEHBZ/AMEMBASSY BRAZZAVILLE PRIORITY 0005
RUEHRY/AMEMBASSY CONAKRY PRIORITY 0020
RUEHCO/AMEMBASSY COTONOU PRIORITY 0097
RUEHDK/AMEMBASSY DAKAR PRIORITY 0248
RUEHDJ/AMEMBASSY DJIBOUTI PRIORITY 0127
RUEHKM/AMEMBASSY KAMPALA PRIORITY 2809
RUEHLG/AMEMBASSY LILONGWE PRIORITY 5386
RUEHLS/AMEMBASSY LUSAKA PRIORITY 1718
RUEHTO/AMEMBASSY MAPUTO PRIORITY 7437
RUEHNR/AMEMBASSY NAIROBI PRIORITY 0208
RUEHOU/AMEMBASSY OUAGADOUGOU PRIORITY 0286
RUEHSA/AMEMBASSY PRETORIA PRIORITY 3195
RUEHWD/AMEMBASSY WINDHOEK PRIORITY 0289
RUEHYD/AMEMBASSY YAOUNDE PRIORITY 0020
UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 03 DAR ES SALAAM 001397 
 
SIPDIS 
 
SIPDIS 
 
DEPT FOR AF/EPS T HASTINGS AND AF/E B YODER 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: EINV ETRD KTEX TZ
SUBJECT: AGOA: TANZANIA'S TEXTILE SECTOR AND SUPPORT FOR 
THIRD-COUNTRY FABRIC PROVISIONS 
 
REF: STATE 131825 
 
1. (U) SUMMARY.  With twelve active manufacturers employing 
over 12,000 people, Tanzania's textile and apparel sector is 
slowly on the rise after near collapse in the mid-1990s. 
Except for two vertically integrated firms, Tanzania's 
textile companies source most of their fabric from China, 
India and Pakistan to produce African printed cloth or 
"khangas" for the local market.  There are currently three 
major textile firms exporting to Europe and the U.S. There is 
also a major new investment on the horizon for an 
export-ready apparel factory established by a Cyprus-based 
company known as Cami Textiles Group.  Regarding extension of 
the African Growth and Opportunity (AGOA) third-country 
fabric provision, the industry view is divided: those firms 
which source fabric from abroad strongly favor the extension 
while Tanzania's largest vertically integrated textile firm, 
Sunflag, strongly opposes any extension.  The Government of 
Tanzania (GOT) has come forth publicly in favor of extending 
the provision until 2015, issuing a request along with other 
AGOA eligible countries during the fifth AGOA Ministerial 
meeting in Washington D.C. in June 2006. END SUMMARY. 
 
Tanzania's Textile and Apparel Production Facilities 
--------------------------------------------- -------- 
2. (U) Tanzania's textile industry appears to be moving 
forward in terms of productive capacity and export potential. 
 There are currently 12 active textile/apparel manufacturers 
which have a total production capacity of more than 224 
million meters of dyed or printed fabric. Tanzania's Ministry 
of Industry, Trade and Marketing estimates that the textile 
industry employs approximately 12,700 people, more than half 
of whom are women.  Approximately half of all textile/apparel 
firms are producing garments for the local market, ("khanga" 
and "kitenge") as well as bed sheets and blankets. The 
following list highlights Tanzania's key textile factories, 
the main products, estimates of capacity (million meters per 
year) and employment figures: 
 
Factory              Product          Capacity    Employment 
--------------------------------------------- --------------- 
A to Z Textiles      Garments                      1,500 
Cami Apparel         Garments                      1,600 
Cami Suma            Garments                        320 
EverFit              Uniforms                        115 
Karibu Textiles      Khanga               40         600 
Kilimanjaro          Khanga                8         600 
Mbeya Textile        Gray Cotton           6         500 
 
Musoma Textiles      Khanga/bed sheets    12         500 
Mwanza Textiles      Khanga/bed sheets    15       1,300 
NIDA Textiles        Khanga/bed sheets     9         800 
Namera Group         Gray cloth           18         600 
Sunflag              Garments             25       3,000 
Urafiki Textiles                                   1,284 
                     Yarn 
                     Gray woven fabric    23 
                     Printed fabric       24 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
TOTAL EMPLOYEES:                                  12,719 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
 
 
Fabric Imported From China, India, Pakistan 
------------------------------------------- 
3. (U) Of the 12 main manufacturers, Sunflag and A-to-Z 
Textiles, are the only two vertically integrated firms, 
spinning cotton, knitting, weaving, dyeing, and finishing 
garments.  Sunflag's fabric, for example, is 100 percent 
cotton ring spun and finished into knitted tops for men, 
 
DAR ES SAL 00001397  002 OF 003 
 
 
women and children.  Otherwise, Tanzania's textile 
manufacturers primarily source their fabric from Asia: Karibu 
Textiles and NIDA Textiles buy their fabric from India and 
Pakistan, while New Mwanza Textile Mill, Urafiki Textiles, 
and Cami Textiles Group buy fabric from China.  According to 
the Managing Director of Cami Textiles Group, Maurice Lezmi, 
fabric sourced from China is the only way to remain cost 
competitive in the low margin textile market that his company 
targets. 
 
New Textile Investment from Cyprus 
----------------------------------- 
4. (U) Cyprus' Cami Textiles Group, a holding company with 
six factories in Bulgaria, is the newest, significant 
investor in Tanzania's apparel sector.  Cami Textiles Group 
has invested approximately USD 5 million in three factories 
in the Dar es Salaam area.  In early 2006, Cami Apparel 
opened a small and medium sized factory, Everfit Apparel and 
Cami Suma respectively.  In September 2006, Cami Textiles 
Group will open Cami Apparel, its third and largest apparel 
factory in Tanzania's new Export Processing Zone (EPZ).  Cami 
Textiles Group uses Mitsubishi sewing machines from Japan and 
sources the vast majority of its fabric from China.  The 
following are the estimated number of machines and employees 
per Cami Group factory: 
 
Factory              Machines (Mitsubishi)        Employees 
--------------------------------------------- --------------- 
Everfit                     135                     115 
Cami Suma                   350                     320 
Cami Apparel                900                     1600 
 
Tanzania's Textiles Target Bargain Market 
------------------------------------------ 
5. (U) Currently, Sunflag is the only textile company 
exporting significant quantities under AGOA, with 
approximately USD 3.8 million worth of exports in 2005.  The 
company targets a low-end market with customers in the United 
States such as WalMart.  Both NIDA  and Urafiki Textiles 
export apparel to Europe, also targeting the lower-end 
market.  With its new factory in the EPZ, Cami Textiles Group 
intends to begin exporting to the United States under AGOA. 
According to Lezmi, Cami will sell its products through 
already well-established relationships between Cami (in 
Bulgaria) and buyers such as WalMart and Champion.  The 
remaining textile companies in Tanzania are primarily 
producing African printed fabrics ("khanga") as well as bed 
sheets and blankets for the local market. 
 
Comment: Industry Divided on Extension 
-------------------------------------- 
6. (U) While the Government of Tanzania (GOT) supports an 
extension of the AGOA third-country fabric provision, the 
industry view on the extension of third-country fabric 
provision is divided between those firms which are vertically 
integrated and those which are not.  Sekela Mwaisela, AGOA 
Desk Officer at the Ministry of Industry, Trade and 
Marketing, recently informed post in writing of its joint 
request to U.S. Congress, in collaboration with other AGOA 
eligible countries, for the extension of the third country 
fabric provision from 2007 until 2015. 
 
7. (U) Because Sunflag is vertically integrated, making its 
own yarns and fabrics, the company does not stand to benefit 
from an extension of the AGOA third-country fabric provision. 
  Rajeev Shah, Managing Director of Sunflag noted, "We do not 
support an extension as it will defeat the purpose of 
building regional capacity.  We have invested in modernizing 
our plant and machinery with the 2007 deadline in mind.  If 
the provision is extended our investment will have no meaning 
 
DAR ES SAL 00001397  003 OF 003 
 
 
and we will be another tailoring shop exporting cheap labor 
from Africa instead of exporting value added garments made 
from African raw materials."  Equally emphatic from the other 
side, Lezmi of Cami Textiles Group stressed, "If the 
third-country fabric provision is not extended, that will 
kill our chances to export under AGOA, that will kill our 
investment here in Tanzania as well as the new jobs our 
largest factory is ready to create." 
RETZER