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GrowFAQ : Cloning : for Hydroponic systems
: Rockwool

Snoofer's illustrated rockwool cloning
technique

Added by:
snoofer  Last edited by:
snoofer  Viewed: 374 times

Rated by 34 users:
9.65/10

Contributed by: snoofer

Submitted:
02-28-2003
Images archived 2003

Note:
Thumbnails w/blue borders can be enlarged

Why
Rockwool?
Rockwool is an excellent medium for
cloning: sterile, cheap, biodegradable, and portable,
rockwool can be transplanted into any system with
minimum transplant shock.

Introduction

Successful cloning requires cleanliness, warmth,
healthy stock, and a little TLC. Clones are sensitive to
their environment; harsh conditions (ie. cold &
damp) will delay rooting and increase mortality.

How many clones should I cut?
There
will always be natural differences between clones; sheer
numbers will compensate for poor performers and
mortality. The fastest rooting clones have the most
vigorous vegetative growth and usually the best
flowering potential. I suggest taking 50% more than you
need.

Materials:

Rooting gel

Fresh razor blade(s) / quality trimming scissors

Cutting board

1" rockwool cubes

Slotted tray / solid tray / High hat humidity domes

SuperThrive (@ 1 drop/gal)

No Damp (@ 5ml/gal in a spray bottle)

Flourescent lighting

Optional:

Heating mat (40w GroTek mat on a timer displayed)

Isopropyl alcohol

Tray inserts: (I used Grodan 77 inserts - 55
clones/tray) keep cubes upright, evenly spaced, and
slightly raised off the slotted tray.

Note:
always use "high quality water" when watering clones -
distilled, reverse-osmosis (R.O.) or “24 hour” tap water
left for 24 hours to dissipate chlorine. All water
should be at room temperature.

Prepping the
mothers
The moms should be healthy, pest/disease
free and fully into vegetative growth. Clones can
be taken off moms up to 2 weeks into flower; however,
these flowered clones experience reveg shock and are
often difficult to root.

I like to foliar feed
the mothers with Growth Plus (A Nitrozyme kelp extract
containing growth hormones) 3-4 days prior to cloning to
encourage lush and healthy shoot growth.

It is
recommeneded to reduce the amount/ratio of Nitrogen in
the mother's nutrient solution 3 days prior to cloning
(flush soil mothers with water). Nitrogen inhibits root
growth; reduced N levels in the mother help the clones
to root faster.

Some growers do not like to top
their moms, preferring to take clones from lower lateral
branches to maintain vertical growth and prevent bushy
growth. Topping will produce 2 more shoots at the same
node, and even more clones can be taken the next round.

Prepping the rockwool

Remove plastic wrapping from cubes (The plastic can
incubate algae)

Prepare some pH 4.5 - 5.5 water + SuperThrive (1
drop/gal)

Immerse cubes for 24hrs.

I use plastic
"Grodan77" inserts (11 cubes per insert, 5 inserts/tray
for 55 clones/tray); keep cubes upright, evenly spaced,
and slightly raised.

I find the standard 1" cube
too big; it remains damp and cool (even on a heating
mat). I prefer to cut the 1" cube into 2 halves; the ½
sized cube dries out faster, stays warm, air can reach
all sides, roots exit faster, and you get twice as many!
Cutting a cube into 4 makes even more...

Labeling your clones
Labeling your
mom and the clones taken from a particular mom is a good
idea to backtrack on a “monster mom”.

Prior
to cloning
Exposed clones will wilt within a few
minutes, so it is best to have all materials ready
before you start to take cuttings.

Dip scissors and razor blade into alcohol (Grease is
used to separate razor blades). Wipe cutting board with
alcohol.

Drain cubes, place into tray.

Poke a 1/8" hole halfway into the center of each
cube

Cover prepped cubes with dome until you are ready to
start (I like to pre-warm the rockwool by putting the
filled tray on the heating mat for ½ hour before I start
to take cuttings).

Clone types
Actively
growing tops are preferred, as they contain the most
growth hormones. Clones taken lower down are often
spindly and less developed. I prefer 3" top clones with
a 1/8" stem, 2-3 fan leaves and a slightly firm (but not
yet woody) stem.

I prefer short clones (no more
than 2-3 nodes), otherwise the newly forming roots must
support a large leaf and shoot. The clone should also be
'mature',with alternating leaves. Immature clones have
leaves opposite each other and are usually pale and
spindly.

Avoid stem cuts (no node) and plug
cuts, as they do not root nearly as well (Roots form
primarily at the nodes). Trim large fan leaves in half
to minimize the leaf area the newly forming roots must
support.

Selecting the clone
(Where do I cut?)
Select a vigorous growing top on
the mother, cut the main stem just above a fan leaf /
auxiliary shoot node about 2 nodes down (as shown in red
in the image). The cut can be done with trimming
scissors or razor blade.

(Leaving a shoot and
fan leaf on the mother allows the remaining shoot to
continue growing and another shoot to grow from that
node.)

Pre-Trim the raw clone:
(Removing lower nodes)
Once the growing top has
been selected and cut from the mother, trim shoots and
fan leaves from the lowest nodes (as seen in the image).
The lowest node will be inserted into the rockwool.

Cut ¼" below the lowest node with the razor
blade at a 45 degree angle on the cutting board for a
clean cut.

The trimmed clone:

This 'ideal' trimmed clone was taken from a vigorous
top. A fan leaf and shoot were both removed at the
lowest node. The clone will soon be inserted dipped into
gel, then inserted into a rockwool cube.

Trim large fan leaves in half (Reduces transpiration;
the newly forming roots don't have to initially support
as much leaf).

Plant the clone

Dip the trimmed clone into the cloning gel, make
sure the lowest node is also thinly coated with gel.
Remove any excess on the cut surface itself (So the
cutting does not suffocate).

Gently push the stem into the rockwool. If the hole
is too big, gently squeeze the rockwool around the stem
to seal it.

Humidity
dome and beyond

Spray inside of humidity dome with No-Damp solution
(Do not spray clones directly, as this can encourage
powdery mildew).

Rotate edge clones to keep their leaves inside of
the tray. Cover the freshly cut clones with the dome.

Put the clone tray + dome under "warm white"
fluorescent lights (Unrooted clones require low light
levels. Do not blast them with direct HID lights!).

The humidity dome should be left on for 3 days,
lifted daily for air exchange. On the 4th day I like to
prop up the dome ¼" (slightly) on one side to
acclimatize them (If wilting occurs, leave dome on for
another day and try again).

On the 5th day I
remove the dome. Roots should begin to exit the cube
after 10 days or so.

Daily Maintenance
1.
Air exchange
Lift the dome at least once/day
(for first 3-4 days, then remove dome). Breathe inside
the dome to increase Co2 levels.

2.
Watering
I water every second day when the
clones are under the dome, then once/day thereafter.
Once roots show, you may have to water twice a day to
keep the roots moist.

The pH of the water inside
of the rockwool will rise slowly; re-hydrating @ 5.6-5.8
will restore proper pH levels inside the root zone.
Allowing the cubes to dry slightly will force roots to
search for water and encourage vigorous rooting (But
dont allow the cubes to completely dry out!)

Mix 5.6-5.8 pH "24 hour" water and fill solid tray
about halfway with water.
Note: After the dome has
been removed, add small amounts of nutrients -Micro +
Bloom + 1drop/gal SuperThrive.

Dip clones + inserts + slotted tray into the ½
filled solid tray. Make sure all clones are getting
water by 'swirling' the edges of the tray.

Lift clone tray out and allow to drain. Shake tray
to remove excess moisture.

Place clones back under fluorescent lights, and a
gentle fan.

Root check
Roots
should begin to exit the cube in 7-10 days. A
gentle upward tug on the clone will tell you if
it is rooted (only do this after 10 days). Unrooted
clones will pull out. Roots may be present, but not yet
exiting the cube. If in doubt, carefully open the cube
to see if any roots are exiting.

Initially
clones will draw their nutrient needs from the fan
leaves, and may turn slightly pale. This is a good sign,
as it is proof the clone is rooted, and is actively
growing. Often unrooted clones appear healthy and green
(and will stay that way for weeks!).

I prefer to
sort out the clones (unrooted, few roots, vigorous) into
their own trays. Roots should be white and fuzzy. If a
clone has not shown roots in 2 weeks, I'd consider
removing it. Brown roots indicate rot. Occassionally,
root tips will become air burned: a sign to water more
often!

Weak nutrients (50-200ppm) should be
started on the rooted clones, and watered more
frequently to avoid drying the exposed root tips out.
You could also try a weak foiliar feeding with Growth
Plus (or any kelp extract). Begin to increase Nitrogen
levels.

Once the clones have fully established
roots, they can be put under weak HID light and a weak
(250-500ppm) nutrient regime, or outplanted into soil,
hydro or aero systems.

Tips

Do not put the clone tray directly onto a heating
mat. The heat will cook the roots, even on a timer. It
is better to raise the tray off the mat. I use 2
coroplast strips to sit the tray on, raising the tray
approx. ¼".

A low-level continuous heat is
preferred, but a timer may be required to reduce
temperatures. I run my mats 30min on, 30 min off, 24/7.

The heat will dry out the clones, and frequent
watering may be required.

Occasionally, fresh cloning gel will be very thick.
Add some water to container, shake. The gel should pour
easier.

If you are using rooting powder, take care to remove
excess powder from the stem cut as you plant the
cutting, as this can inhibit the uptake of water.

Give your rooted clones a foliar feeding with Growth
Plus (or any Kelp extract) to give them a quick growth
boost.

Cut many tops at once to speed up the cloning
process.

Mark and date all trays, so you know when to expect
roots. Try to keep different strains organized in their
own trays, watered seperately.

Last modified: 15:05 - Sep 27,
2002

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