A Well-Traveled Woman
by Donald Olson
Somerset Maugham began one of his South Seas stories with the words, "The wise traveler travels only in imagination," a line I was to recall with deep chagrin after what happened.
It all started one day shortly after a company merger had left me redundant. My friend Winifred called from her cottage down the lane to say I must come to brunch on Thursday to meet the most extraordinary woman. Somewhat passive by nature, Winifred was rarely so animated as she sounded that day on the phone. Her rapid elliptical speech left me to decipher the garbled message she was breathless to convey.
"Her name is Serenity Wilkes . . . some sort of travel agent, well not exactly, more a professional tour guide . . . now you're free to make that trip to Sweden you're always going on about... she's to lecture at the Viking Lodge ... all very select and reasonable, you wouldn't believe ... so charming and those ethnic costumes picked up all over the world ... a very well traveled woman ..."
She gabbled on about this remarkable woman I really must meet. "And now you've all the time in the world, I shall be most put out, my dear, if you don't show up on Thursday."
Having "all the time in the world" still did not incline me to change my antisocial habits, but I liked Winifred and must confess her ravings about this new acquaintance aroused my curiosity. Sprucing myself up, I drove down the lane that Thursday morning.
As I rang the bell I could hear through the screen door what sounded like a child's voice bubbling with amusement. I heard the words, "... bartering there in the native quarter, which of course is what one is expected to do ..."
From what Winifred had told me, I'd somehow expected to meet a person as visibly foreign to Fair Grove as a Turkish belly dancer, exuding charm and a worldly air of authority, perhaps wearing one of those "ethnic costumes."
In fact, Serenity Wilkes was a petite creature perhaps between forty and fifty with doll-baby features, big dove-gray eyes, and a sweetly smiling countenance. She wore nothing more exotic than a silver and turquoise necklace and in her swept-back graying blond hair a matching comb.
"And this is the young man I told you about," Winifred introduced us. "He's been pining for years to visit Sweden, and when I told him about your Scandinavian tour he was agog to meet you."
Embarrassed by this overstatement, I could only return the soft pressure of Serenity Wilkes's hand and try to match her sweetly engaging smile.
"Ah, but I could have guessed his origins!" she exclaimed. "Those blue eyes are a giveaway. What part of Sweden did your people come from?"
"My dad's parents came from Varberg. I'm pure Yankee on my mother's side."
"Varberg! In the province of Halland. A charming seaport not far from Gothenburg. You must, of course, not miss it. Our tour is quite flexible, you know."
"If I ever get there," I replied with a laugh. "I'm not even sure it's wise to go. As Wordsworth said in that poem about Yarrow, 'I have a vision of my own, ah why should I undo it?' "
Serenity Wilkes's eyes sparkled merrily up at Winifred, who was a good four inches taller. "Yes! He is precisely the sort of person I love to take abroad. Soul of a poet, I can tell. We're very select, you know. Camaraderie is so important."
Winifred, as a moving force in the Viking Lodge—Fair Grove has a large population of Swedish origin—had arranged for Serenity Wilkes's visit and lecture and had invited to her brunch a half-dozen townsfolk who she felt might be predisposed to sign up for the Scandinavian tour.
Over coffee and quiche and avocado salad, Serenity Wilkes treated us to what I assumed to be a precis of her upcoming lecture-travelogue at the Viking Lodge. Without a doubt her most striking feature was her voice, with its faint, indefinable accent. High-pitched and soft as a child's, it might be likened to the burbling twitter of some very small bird. The phrase "playfully kittenish" comes to mind, although this more aptly describes her manner than her voice. Her enthusiasm was infectious. She possessed the experienced traveler's power to kindle the imagination of the would-be globetrotter.
After Serenity Wilkes and the other guests had departed, I helped Winifred clear the table.
"Well?" she said. "Didn't I tell you she was an extraordinary woman? Didn't you find her charming?"
"Very charming, but what do you know about her? How did she happen to come here of all places?"
"My dear, I invited her, I told you that. Well, let's face it, these poky little bus tours I've arranged for our lodge members over the years are getting a wee bit tiresome. Why not broaden our horizons? I happened to see this little item in the classifieds about a Sunglow Scandinavian Tour and wrote to inquire." 
"Sunglow?"
"I assumed it was an agency, but from that I gather Serenity is Sunglow Tours, more or less. My dear, it would be right up your alley. You've always said you wouldn't want to go abroad alone and you'd hate being part of one of those mob tours." "I take it you're going to sign up?"
Winifred's moon face, under gray unruly bangs, expanded in a broad smile. "I hadn't really planned to but after meeting Serenity I can't wait to set sail." 
"Take flight, I hope you mean." 
"Yes, of course. So what do you think?"
"I think I'll wait to hear more details. Like how much it'll cost. I noticed she evaded that question."
"Not to me, she didn't. Less than two thousand dollars for the total package, with a seven-hundred-and-fifty-dollar down payment. Is that reasonable or isn't it?" 
"For that long a tour? Yes, I'd call it most reasonable." "And without the hurly-burly of being pushed around like a herd of sheep. Almost a family group. Aren't you excited?"
The lecture at the Viking Lodge was well attended, and on this occasion Serenity Wilkes treated the audience to a fashion show as well as a travelogue complete with slides and personal reminiscences.
Appearing first in a Spanish costume complete with mantilla and fan, she instantly captured our attention by declaring, "First of all, I must confess I am a fraud! My real name is Tullah Soleni-vaskaya. I was born in Russia. From a little girl my passion was for the dance. My dream was to be a prima ballerina. It was not to be. After touring Europe with the Kirov for five years I fell victim to—how do I say—political pressures? I wish to leave the country, but it is not permitted. A British diplomat befriended me. He offers to become my husband, in name only, so I can acquire his nationality.
"From England I come to America. Sans husband, sans money. What can I do? What are my gifts? I know languages. I know Europe like—how do you say—the back of my fingers? I say to myself, Americans love to travel. You can guide them, instruct them, share with them these cities you know so well. And I change my name, for now I find happiness. I become Serenity . .."
Following this snippet of autobiography she took us on a slide tour of various European countries, changing with the speed and skill of an actress from one costume to another, explaining how she had acquired her collection of such garments. When she came to discuss the projected Scandinavian tour she wore a Swedish peasant girl's costume.
I had listened to my share of travelogues but Serenity Wilkes had the ability to create the very atmosphere of the places she described. With the lyrical enthusiasm of the inveterate traveler, she painted picture after picture of the country I'd always wanted so much to visit.
She invited those who wished to learn more about the tour to join her after the lecture downstairs in the lounge. About a dozen of us responded and over coffee were free to ask whatever questions she'd left unanswered, about passports and planes and hotel accommodations, and about the cost, which was, as Winifred had said, more than reasonable.
With her canary-bird laugh she made a joke about Swedish frugality. "Ah yes, I know your reputation as skinflicks!"
"That's skinflints, Serenity," an elderly man corrected her with a smile. I'd noticed him as he entered the hall upstairs, fumbling with two canes as he settled himself in a seat near me. 
"Thank you, dear Mr. Clayburn." said Serenity Wilkes. "Of course I know you are neither Swedish nor a skinflint." Addressing the rest of us, she added: "Mr. Clayburn has been with me on three of my previous tours."
Clayburn gripped his canes and struggled to rise. 'When I learned that Serenity was to be here I drove seventy miles for the pleasure of seeing and hearing her again. I cannot recommend her too highly. She is a delightful and knowledgeable guide. To any of you who may suffer small infirmities that might discourage you from traveling abroad, let me say that Serenity is the most patient and helpful of tour managers."
That such a distinguished but frail-looking gentleman, with the mien of a scholar and that air of confidence one has to admire in the disabled, should vouch for the comforts of travel under the auspices of Serenity Wilkes clearly impressed the group, and when asked for a show of hands of those who might seriously be interested in joining the tour, at least nine hands were raised.
Winifred gave me a discreet nudge. "Raise your hand, raise your hand," she whispered. Dutifully, I did so.
Leaflets were passed out describing the tour in detail. Deposit checks were to be made out to Sunglow Tours and delivered by mail or in person to Serenity Wilkes at the Fair Grove Inn, where she was staying. Ten days hence a get-acquainted cocktail party would be held at the inn for those who'd signed up.
When I dropped Winifred off at the foot of the lane she squeezed my arm and said, 'Well, my dear, it took a bit of prodding on my part but at least one of your dreams will come true."
"Let's hope I won't be disappointed," I replied, refusing to share her excitement. "Like Niagara Falls." She gave me a startled look. "Niagara Falls?" "My folks took me there when I was about eight. I had an image in my mind of looking up at this prodigious cascade that would appear to be falling out of the sky. I remember turning to my mother and saying, 'Is that it?'" "Oh, you're impossible. Always joking." In fact, I wasn't.
You might say the flight to Sweden crashed without ever leaving the ground, with no fatalities but with serious injuries to pocket-books and pride. I first learned of the disaster when Winifred came pounding on my door the evening before the get-acquainted cocktail party. "You'd best sit down," she said in her most dramatic crisis tone.
I steered her to a chair, for she was the one who appeared shaken. 'Whatever's happened?" I asked.
"Serenity's gone."
"Gone where?'
"To Sweden, for all I know. Or to Timbuktu. Who knows? I called at the inn to see about preparations for the party. The staff knew nothing about any party. They told me Serenity had checked out two days ago. No parting word, no forwarding address." Winifred's usually passive features seemed primed for tears. "My dear, we've been swindled! That frightful, smarmy woman hoodwinked us all. It was nothing but a scam."
"But that's absurd." I recalled Serenity's opening remark at the lecture: / must confess I'm a fraud. Would a swindler ever make such a statement? "There must be some explanation."
"Don't be naive. She snookered us right from the start, and I'm the one who'll take the heat. I'm the one who brought her here. I'm the one who organized the whole thing."
"Have you called the police?"
"I haven't called anyone. I came straight here. Do you think we should? Oh God, if it gets in the paper!"
I told her not to panic. "Isn't there a chance she might simply have been called away and will return for the party? I suggest we call the others, you know who they are, and meet as planned at the inn, party or no party, and then decide what to do."
Winifred was willing to do anything that might avert a public scandal. We called everyone except Mr. Clayburn, the only out-of-towner who'd signed up for the tour and whom we had no idea how to contact. He would have to wait for the bad news until we were all together.
What should have been a festive pre-bon voyage party had more the tone of a wake. The rest of us had had time to absorb the impact of the shock; poor Mr. Clayburn hobbled into the private dining room at the inn with no idea what awaited him. Surprisingly, among the babble of angry voices his was the only one to plead for reason.
"I know the lady better than any of you," he reminded us. "Goodness me, I've accompanied her on three earlier tours, and they were all as aboveboard and pleasurable as one could wish. We mustn't do anything hasty until we're sure there isn't some perfectly logical explanation for her disappearance."
"Like what?" demanded Winifred, who among us most hoped he could be right. But he could only shrug his bowed shoulders and counsel patience.
"Patience be damned!" cried Mr. Dahlgren, a beefy, pink-faced retired accountant. "You bet we've got to get the cops on to her. The woman bilked us out of our money."
After the clamor of approval had subsided, I looked at Clayburn and said, "You say you know her better than any of us. Precisely how well do you know her?"
Hardly better than the rest of us, it turned out. He seemed vaguely to recall some mention of Chicago as her base of operations, but, like Winifred, he'd first heard of Sunglow Tours through a small ad in his local paper, giving a local post-office box address.
Clayburn's evidence seemed to indicate that Serenity Wilkes had operated a legitimate travel service in the past, which only added to the mystery of her present behavior.
"You can be sure she's covered her tracks," declared the accountant. "It'll take police action to weasel her out."
Winifred deplored the idea of police involvement, while Mr. Clayburn, with a saintly forbearance I had to admire, preferred for the present at least to give Serenity Wilkes the benefit of the doubt. I remained neutral. In the end the will of the majority prevailed. The matter was referred to the local authorities, whose efforts, however, failed to produce any leads to Serenity; she had vanished without a trace.
None of us had lost a fortune, only our deposits, and perhaps we had learned a lesson. Winifred was spared the shame of having her role in the affair made public; a couple of the prospective tour members were influential enough to keep it out of the local paper.
"Tell me the truth, my dear," said Winifred some weeks later. "Do you think she was a complete fraud?"
"Is there any doubt?"
"But she was a truly extraordinary woman. That voice! I can still hear it. She was a marvelous speaker."
"Performer, don't you mean?"
"Whatever. But she made it all so real. All those places she'd been to, you could almost feel you were there."
I knew all too well what she meant, for eventually I did make that trip to Sweden, and yet, strange to say, from the moment I left the plane at Stockholm's Arlanda Airport nothing of what I saw, despite my determination to be enchanted by everything, quite measured up to the dream. The countryside in summer was lovely; Varberg, the town from which my grandfather had emigrated, was not without interest. Stockholm, despite a plumbing disaster in my hotel room, offered sights and sounds that could not fail to please. The drive south through the chateau country of Skane had a picture-book quality, and of course the cuisine throughout the trip was matchless.
But I must be honest. Serenity Wilkes, with her sparkle and verve and that magic flute of a voice, had led me to expect more. Or was it simply that Maugham had been right, that the wise traveler is indeed the one who travels only in imagination.
The story, however, does not end there. One autumn five years after Serenity Wilkes had absconded I was visiting a cousin in California who had bought a small house in Santa Monica. One morning I boarded the little trolley that ran along the shore from Santa Monica Beach down to Venice. As I neared the end of the line I happened to catch sight of a man slumped in a deck chair on the glistening white beach. He was wearing a cap and facing the ocean, but there was something about the set of his shoulders and the two canes propped against his chair that brought Mr. Clay-burn to mind. It couldn't have been he, of course, or so I thought until the woman in the chair beside him turned to face him. I recognized her instantly: It was Serenity Wilkes!
By the time I'd jumped off the trolley and walked back up the beach the woman's chair was empty but Clayburn was still there. He reacted to my appearance with an expression of dismay quite beyond my powers to describe. Yet I must give him credit. He was quick to disguise his consternation.
"My dear fellow!" he cried, reaching for one of his canes as if meaning to rise but not actually making the effort. "It is indeed a small world."
"How are you, Clayburn?' I replied equably, dropping into the chair beside him.
"Oh, much the same, yes, much the same."
Which wasn't quite the truth. He looked younger, heartier, less frail than I remembered, and deeply tanned. With a furtive glance over his shoulder, he asked what had brought me to that end of the continent. I told him about my cousin and added, casually:
"Ever hear anything more of Serenity Wilkes?" 
His answer took me by surprise. "Oh, hadn't you heard? Died, poor lady. I can't recall who told me. Killed in a train accident, or was it a car crash, somewhere in Spain. Two or three years ago."
I could not restrain my laughter. "Was she indeed? Then who was the woman occupying this chair not fifteen minutes ago? Her twin sister?"
"Ah, you saw her," he said, looking no more abashed than one might expect from a practiced liar.
"Yes. With your heads together. Planning another tour, were you?"
"No, no," he replied, as if the question were serious. "We've retired. Bought a little place in town. Tillie liked the idea of living in Venice—even if it's the wrong one."
"Tillie?"
Clayburn noted my dismay with a sly chuckle. "Tillie Slovenska was her name before we were married. Tullah Solenivaskaya and Serenity Wilkes were a couple of the monikers she invented—for business purposes, you know. Like the accent. Tillie's good at languages. Yes, of all the cities she never visited, Venice was her favorite."
"Never visited?"
"My dear fellow, Tillie's never been out of the country. We always planned to travel. She's always had a passion for faraway places. Learned more about the world from books than she'd ever have learned by actually seeing it. A travel expert who never left home, you might say." He tapped one of his canes. "We might have traveled if some drunken idiot hadn't run me down in his pickup truck. Legs healed but the old spine was irreparably damaged. We got around the U.S.A. but that's all we could manage."
Oblivious of my astonishment, he told me the truth with a disarming candor. He seemed quite proud of his wife's resourcefulness, how she had turned to account her powers of imagination and her knowledge of Europe to create a mythical travel service appealing particularly to communities with strong ethnic populations. The Swedes of Fair Grove had been ripe for plucking. Her collection of native costumes had been sewn by her own hand from pictures found in books.
"Oh, sure it was a scam," Clayburn admitted seemingly without shame. "But nobody lost more than they could afford."
"I did. My friend Winifred did."
"Ah, sorry about that."
"So you were her confederate. You were there to vouch for credentials. And to remain behind when it all came to light. To douse the flames of anger, so to speak. To counsel patience."
"You'd be surprised how rarely people want to publicize their gullibility."
Stunned by all this, I looked away down the beach to where young men with muscular brown bodies shining in the blaze of the sun were doing handsprings and lifting barbells.
Clayburn reached out and placed a bony hand lightly on my arm. "So what are you going to do? Call the cops?'
"What else would you expect me to do?"
"We might be able to make good your loss."
"What about all the others?"
"Ah well, I'm afraid our assets wouldn't stretch that far."
"Then you leave me no choice."
Before he could reply I sprang up and strode away from the beach, not bothering to look back. I glanced at my watch. I'd promised to call my cousin and tell her if I'd be back for lunch. But I knew it might be unwise to delay calling the police. I stopped at the first public phone and looked up the number.
And then I hesitated. I thought of that evening in the Viking Lodge. I could almost hear that birdlike sing-song voice stirring my imagination with word pictures of a Sweden that still remained a more vivid memory than the reality I'd finally experienced.
I dug a coin from my pocket and lifted the receiver. Once more I paused. Behind me I could hear the noise of the surf and a distant caroling of laughter, and I knew if I turned around I would see two empty chairs on the beach. Even a five-minute delay in calling the police might lead to Vanishing Act Part Two. Yet still I hesitated. Should I call my cousin or call the police? Police or cousin? Cousin or police?
What would you have done?
Hardly conscious of making a decision, I pressed the phone to my ear and dialed. •