A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson: [pt.2]

Table of contents

- [titlepage]

- ADVERTISEMENT.

- WARK CASTLE

- CARHAM,

- CORNHILL,

- FORD CASTLE,

- PALINSBURN,

- ETAL

- TILMOUTH,

- HETON,

- TWIZEL CASTLE,

- NORHAM,

- TWEEDMOUTH,

- BERWICK,

- HOLY ISLAND;

- EPISCOPUS I.

- EPISCOPUS II.

- EPISCOPUS III.

- EPISCOPUS IV.

- EPISCOPUS V.

- EPISCOPUS VI.

- EPISCOPUS VII.

- EPISCOPUS VIII.

- EPISCOPUS IX.

- EPISCOPUS X.

- EPISCOPUS XI.

- EPISCOPUS XII.

- EPISCOPUS XIII.

- EPISCOPUS XIV.

- EPISCOPUS XV.

- EPISCOPUS XVI.

- EPISCOPUS XVII.

- EPISCOPUS XVIII.

- HAGGERSTON,

- KYLOE

- FENWICK and BEAL

- BELFORD,

- BAMBROUGH,

- EDERSTON,

- CASTLE of BAMBROUGH,

- THE FARN ISLANDS

- ELLINGHAM

- EMBLETON,

- ROCK,

- DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE,

- CRAISTER,

- HOWICK

- ALNWICK,

- THE CASTLE OF ALNWICK.

- ALNWICK ABBEY,

- WARKWORTH,

- ALEMOUTH.

- THE CASTLE OF WARKWORTH

- HERMITAGE.

- COQUET ISLAND,

- FELTON,

- BRINKBURN PRIORY,

- NETHER WITTON,

- STANTON,

- LONG WITTON,

- BOLHAM,

- MITFORD,

- THE ABBEY OF NEWMINSTER,

- MOLLESTON,

- MORPETH,

- BOTHALL,

- SHIPWASH,

- CAMBOIS,

- ASHINGTON,

- NEWBIGGIN,

- CRESWELL,

- WIDDRINGTON CASTLE,

- CAWSEY PARK,

- LONGHORSLEY.

- COCKLE PARK TOWER,

- WHALTON

- OGLE CASTLE

- KIRKLEY,

- PONTELAND

- WOLSINGTON

- GOSFORTH,

- BLAGDON,

- STANNINGTON,

- BEDLINGTON,

- BEBSIDE,

- NEWSHAM and SOUTH BLYTH

- CRAMLINGTON

- SEATON DELAVAL

- FORD CASTLE,

- ECHEWICK:

- HARTLEY,

- SEGHILL,

- TYNEMOUTH

- THE PRIORY

- NORTH SHIELDS,

- WALL's END

- CARR VILLE,

- LITTLE BENTON and LONG BENTON

- HEATON

- BYKER,

- NEWCASTLE,

- JESMOND,

- ELSWICK

- FENHAM,

- BENWELL,

- HEDDON,

- NEWBURN,

- ITINERARY and INDEX. ADVERTISEMENT.

- Order of the Plates.

- ANCIENT CUSTOMS Which prevail in the COUNTY of NORTHUMBERLAND, WITH CONJECTURES THEREON. ANCIENT CUSTOMS, &c.

- BABBA.

- GIFTS to INFANTS.

- DOUBLING the THUMB.

- NEW YEAR's DAY.

- TWELFTH DAY.

- BLACK MAILE PAYMENT.

- HEAD PENCE PAYMENT.

- CANDLEMAS DAY.

- St AGNES' FAST.

- VALENTINE DAY

- SHROVE TIDE.

- ASH WEDNESDAY.

- CARLING DAY.

- PALM SUNDAY.

- EASTER DAY

- SWEET BREAD.

- HAGMANA.

- ISCA.

- HOCK-TIDE.

- MAY-DAY.

- PAROCHIAL PERAMBULATION

- MIDSUMMER.

- SHEEP-SHEARING.

- The WAKE.

- MELL SUPPER.

- SEMESLINS.

- ALLHALLOW MASS.

- MARTINMAS

- CHRISTMAS

- YULE CLOG.

- CHRISTMAS BOX.

- The DEAD.

A VIEW OF NORTHUMBERLAND.

WE repassed the Tweed by Coldstream Bridge, a handsome structure of seven arches, having had

FINIS.

A VIEW of NORTHUMBERLAND with an EXCURSION to The ABBEY of MAILROSS in SCOTLAND.

By W. HUTCHINSON Anno 1776.

VOL. II.

NEWCASTLE Printed by T. SAINT, for W. CHARNLEY and Messrs VESEY & WHITFIELD

MDCCLXXVIII.

ADVERTISEMENT.

MY adoption of the word Pater, in the Hexham Inscription, engraved, and facing page 91, vol. I. having been objected to by an anonymous writer, in order to shew it was by no means improper or singular, I beg leave to refer the reader to the 2d volume of the Archaeologia, page 190, where in the Salisbury Inscription commented on by Mr Gough, the words are Pater Ecclesiae Salisbiriensis; and that writer gives it the antiquity of the beginning of the 12th century, the supposed personage for whom that tomb was erected, Roger third Bishop of Salisbury, having been elected A. D. 1102 to that See. ‘His munificence to his infant church intitled him to the name of Pater Ecclesiae Salisbiriensis,’ are his words. The aera and occasion agree critically in the two instances: others might be pointed out; but this, from its pertinence, may seem sufficient.

In my account of Blanchland, page 119, by former writers I was led into an error, touching the family of Forsters, to whom it formerly appertained. This, I presume, will appear to be duly rectified, in the account of Bambrough, in this volume.

The liberal minded reader, I flatter myself, will make allowances for such errors as appear in this work, which, consistent with its title, is a View of the County.

WARK CASTLE

in view for several miles of our passage down the banks of the river: a small part of it standing, forms a rude pillar, which at a distance appears of some consequence. A platform lays to the west, with a trench called Gully's Nich; a mean village to the east, from whence you approach the castle. This fortress stood on a circular eminence, formed by art: its founder is not positively known, nor is any certain date fixed to it. In Leland's Collectanea, part 1. p. 531. it is said, ‘King Henry the 2 causid the Castel of Werke to be made.’ From several circumstances of history, it appears, that it was formidable so early as the beginning of the 12th century.[*]

Near this place are several intrenchments, some of which are defended by mounds of earth.[*] There is a spot adjoining called the Battle Place; but from what particular event it obtained that denomination is not known. As being on the borders, this castle was subject to repeated assaults.

On King Stephen's usurpation of the English crown, David of Scotland, with great indignation, entered the borders, and among other fortresses assaulted and took Carrum, which Richard of Hexham says was by the English called Werk. [†] On a treaty held whilst Stephen lay at Durham and David at Newcastle, these conquests were restored by the Scotch King, who took as a compensation, Carlisle and some other places of less import, as additions to the Earldom of Huntington, which was then ratified to him: Stephen also engaged, that before any disposition was made of the Earldom of Northumberland, he would cause the claim of Henry (David's son) thereto, in right of his mother, to be fairly heard by his Judges. David received in marriage, from King Henry I. of England, his brother-in-law, Maud, the eldest daughter of Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, from whom Henry his son derived his pretensions to that Earldom. Henry, by the resignation of his father, and King Stephen's ratification, held the Earldom of Huntington.

The determination of Henry's claim to Northumberland being suspended, and Stephen unwilling to bring it to a fair discussion, sensible of the great power it would give to the Scotch crown, irritated David to support his son's pretensions by force of arms. Stephen's absence in Normandy favoured his purpose; and soon after Easter, in the year 1137, he levied a great army, with intent to invade England. The northern Barons, with Thurstan Archbishop of York, assembled the English forces at Newcastle; and the Archbishop proceeding to Roxburgh, then in the possession of the Scotch King, in conference with David and his son, prevailed on them to enter into a truce till Stephen's return, when it was presumed the matter in contest would be honourably accommodated: but Stephen persisting in a denial of Henry's right, war immediately ensued.

The winter was set in, when David, flattered with hopes of an insurrection in England, a plot [*] having been laid to massacre all the Normans, and deliver the kingdom to him, who was nearest heir in the Saxon line, not regarding the rigour of the season, dispatched his nephew William, son of Duncan, with part of his army, against the Castle of Wark.[†]

William invested this fortress early in the morning, and David with a numerous army and engines of war, advanced soon afterwards to maintain the siege. This investiture continued three weeks, during which time the most vigorous assaults were sustained by the garrison, under command of Jordan de Bussis, nephew of Walter D'Espec, Lord of Wark.[‡]

David was obliged to raise the siege with disgrace; his forces were much reduced, and his Standard-bearer fell among the slain. The border conflicts were all after one mode, rendered horrible by ravage and rapine. David, after his departure from before Wark, led his forces to the western parts of Northumberland, where he spread desolation and ruin, and marked his progress as far as Tyne with acts of savage cruelty.

To oppose these invaders, Stephen at the head of a numerous army advanced to Wark, which obliged David to abandon Northumberland, and prepare to defend his own territories: but Stephen, apprized of a plot which was laid to entrap him at Roxburgh, returned to England without effecting any thing against his enemy. David seeing the English forces had abandoned the border, after taking and demolishing Norham, advanced against Wark, to revenge an insult the garrison had committed, by taking some baggage, and giving annoyance to his troops, marching under his son Henry. His success in this second attempt was no better than in his former assault; he exerted his powers, employed every engine the art of war had introduced, and with much bloodshed persisted in the siege; till conceiving the fortress was impregnable to every other manoeuvre than a blockade, which could cut off provisions and reinforcement, he determined thereon; and marching southward with the main body of his army, left there a circumvallation of troops, under the care of two of his Barons.

David soon after had a dreadful defeat near Northallerton, at the Battle of the Standard; after which he retreated with the shattered remains of his troops to Carlisle, through a country enraged at the barbarities he had been guilty of in his former incursion: the peasants in every avenue revenging on his flying troops, the sufferings their families had sustained. After a short respite, and a collection of his scattered army at Carlisle, he commanded the siege of Wark to be resumed, in which many new-invented engines and machines were employed. The besieged with unparallelled fortitude sustained the shock: their skilfulness is as admirable as their courage, for they lost but one Knight, whose intrepidity in attacking a machine, exposed him to numbers of assailants, in the midst of whom he fell, after testifying the highest human valour. The slaughter made by the garrison was terrible; insomuch that David, relaxing his rigorous command, ceased all assaults, and again formed a strong blockade. The garrison were reduced to great extremities; they had killed their horses, and salted their flesh for food, and when that was nearly consumed, resolved, as soon as all provision was exhausted, to make a general sally, and cut their passage through the lines of the assailants, or die sword in hand. During this interval, Walter D'Espec, their Lord, willing to preserve so brave a corps, sent the Abbot of Rievalle with his command, that the garrison should surrender the place: on whose arrival a treaty was entered into, in consequence of which the garrison capitulated, and were permitted to march out of the castle under arms, with 20 horses provided them by the Scotch King. On this evacuation, the castle was demolished, and the fortifications were rased.

King Henry II. to strengthen the frontiers of his kingdom against the Scots, ordered the fortifications of the castle of Wark to be restored.[*]

King John, in the year 1215, in resentment of the defection of the northern Barons, who had done homage to Alexander II. at Mailross, advanced to the borders, and, amongst other places, reduced Wark to ashes. M. Paris gives the following account of this horrid expedition: ‘Deinde Rex Ira succensus, vehementi apud partes Scotiae tendebat cismarinas, et captis Castris de Berwic, et aliis quae videbantur inexpugnabilia, improperavit Regi Alexandro, et quia erat Rufus, signicavit ei, dicens, sic sic fugabimus rubeam vulpeculam latibulis suis, multum igitur ibidem stragem et exterminium exercuisset, nisi eundem necessitas magna dilationem non capiens revocasset.’

King Edward, on the breach of fealty by John Baliol, in the year 1296, having levied a great army, advanced towards the Scotch borders; and halting at Bamburgh, received intelligence that Robert de Ross, Lord of Wark, had abandoned his castle, and gone over to the Scots, being enamoured of a Scotch woman, whose affection he preferred to his duty and allegiance: his brother William remaining in the fortress, dispatched a messenger to require immediate aid of the King, as he apprehended Robert would attempt to deliver Wark to the enemy. King Edward immediately ordered 1000 men to march to sustain William and his garrison, who, on their arrival, were attacked in their quarters in the night, in a small village called Prestfeu, by Robert de Ross, with a detachment from Roxburgh, who burnt the village, and put the reinforcement to the sword. King Edward soon after this disaster marched with his whole army to Wark, where he continued to celebrate the festival of Easter.

In the reign of King Edward II. 1318, Wark was taken by the Scots, under King Robert Brus, by assault. In Leland's Collecta. p. 548, it is said, that the Scottes came into the Marches of England, and destroyed the castelles of Wark and Harbottle.

As King David Bruce with his victorious army was returning from Durham in the summer of the year 1341, where he had imbrued his hands in the horrid massacre of all ages and both sexes, had spoiled and plundered the sacred places, and put the religious to miserable deaths, the rear of his army passing the castle of Wark loaden with spoils, were seen by the garrison with the greatest indignation. Sir William Montague was then Governor, and the Countess of Salisbury, whose Lord the fortress then belonged to, resided there. The Governor with 40 horsemen made a sally, attended with considerable slaughter, bringing into the castle 160 horses laden with booty. King David, incensed at this insult, led his army against the castle, and made a general assault, but met with a repulse attended with great bloodshed. David then prepared to fill up the ditches, and bring his battering engines to play upon the walls: the imminent danger of the garrison rendered it necessary to send information of their situation to the English Monarch, who was approaching the borders with a considerable army. The place being close invested, rendered such an attempt perilous, but it was effected by the Governor himself, on a fleet horse, in the darkness and tumult of a stormy night: he passed through the enemy's lines, and carried intelligence to King Edward, who redoubled his speed to relieve the place. The Scotch Chieftains, unwilling to hazard the treasures they had reaped in their expedition, persuaded the King to raise the siege and pass the Tweed; which was done only six hours before the van of the English army appeared. The joy of the Countess of Salisbury for this relief, and her pleasing deportment whilst she entertained the King at Wark, were the beginning of an amour, to which the famous institution of the order of the Garter is said to owe its origin.

In the reign of King Richard II. 1383,[*] it was besieged by the Scots, and part of the fortifications destroyed.

Soon after the accession of King Henry IV. the truce made with Richard II. expiring, the Scots made an incursion, in which they took the castle of Wark, and after holding it some time, utterly demolished the works. It was a fortress of too much consequence to be neglected, and therefore we find it soon after restored and in a state of defence: for in the same reign it sustained many shocks, with various degrees of fortune. In 1419, in the absence of the King of England, who was then in France, hostilities being commenced on the borders, William Haliburton of Fast Castle took the castle of Wark, which was then in the keeping of Robert Ogle, and put all the garrison to the sword; but it was soon recovered by the English, who, from a perfect knowledge of the place, made their way by a sewer which led from the kitchen into the Tweed, and surprizing the garrison, put them all to death, in revenge for their cruelty on Ogle's troops.

In the reign of Henry VI. 1460, the Scots gathered great booty on the Marches, and among many other castles which they assailed, Wark was taken and demolished.

The castle was afterwards repaired by the Earl of Surry, and in the year 1523, in the 15th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. the Scotch army laying at Coldstream, resolved to attempt the reduction of Wark, under the command of the Duke of Albany, Sir John Lisle being then Governor. Buchanan the Historian, being present at the siege, gives the following description of the castle: ‘In the innermost area was a tower of great strength and height; this was encircled by by two walls, the outer including a large space, into which the inhabitants of the country used to fly, with their cattle, corn, and flocks, in time of war; the inner of much smaller extent, but fortified more strongly by ditches and towers. It had a strong garrison, good store of artillery and ammunition, and other things necessary for defence.’ The Duke of Albany sent against it battering cannon, and a chosen band of Scots and French, to the number of 4000, under the command of Andrew Ker of Fairnherst. The French carried the outer inclosure at the first assault, but they were dislodged by the garrison setting fire to the corn and straw laid up therein. The besiegers soon recovered it, and by their cannon effected a breach in the inner wall. The French with great intrepidity mounted the breach, sustaining great loss by the shot of those who possessed the tower or keep, and being warmly received by the forces that defended the inner ballium, were obliged to retire after a great slaughter. The attack was to be renewed the succeeding day, but a fall of rain in the night, which swelled the Tweed, and threatened to cut off the retreat of the assailants to the main army, and the approach of the Earl of Surry, who before lay at Alnwick with a large force, obliged the Duke to relinquish his design, and repass the Tweed.

The present remains of Wark do not in any wise strike the traveller with an idea of so formidable a fortress, as it assuredly was for many centuries. At what time it was dismantled, and thus totally destroyed, I have not been able to learn; but it is probable it was one of the strongholds ordered to be demolished by King James VI. of Scotland, on his accession to the crown of England.

The great convention for the settlement of the tenths demanded by King Henry II. in the year 1188, was held at Brigham, near Wark. Hugh Bishop of Durham was the chief of King Henry's Envoys, and was met by King William the Lion of Scotland, his Bishops, Earls, Barons, and a vast concourse of inferior vassals, when the Scotch rejected the demand with the utmost contempt. In the year 1549, we read of Wark receiving the Earl of Rutland and his army after their Scotch expedition.

Wark was the barony and ancient possession of the family of Ross.[*] William de Ross was a competitor for the Crown of Scotland in the 20th year of King Edward I. and was one of those Lords who, in 1301, protested against the supremacy of the See of Rome over Scotland.[†] John Lord Ross, Baron of Wark, was one of the guardians of the Crown, during the minority of King Edward III. It continued in that family to the end of the 14th century, when (by the escheats of King Henry IV.) it appears to have become the possession of the Greys, [‡] who took their title from the place;[*] in the descendants of which family it has continued to the present time, being now the property of Lord Tankerville. Mr Pennant remarks from the Life of Lord Keeper Guildford, that ‘after the union of the two kingdoms by the accession of King James I. Lord Grey's estate rose from 1000l. to 7 or 8000l. a year, so instantly did these parts experience the benefit.’—Near to Wark lays

Notes

*
Werke Castel on the southe syd of Twede. A praty towne there.—Lel. Itin. v. 7. p. 54.
↵

*
These mounds have a trench cross the crown of each.
↵

†
This is an error in the Historian, the places are distinct, and separate a considerable distance.
↵

*
Ordericus Vitalis.—L. 13. p. 912.
↵

†
Richard of Hexham, John of Hexham.—Redpath's Border History.
↵

‡

Walter D'Espec had great estates in Yorkshire, and was founder of the Abbey of Rievalle, which he filled with Monks from St. Barnard. The scite of this abbey is by ancient writers described to be melancholy and desert, on a tract of land called Blackowmor, on the banks of the river Rie, from whence the monastery had the name of Rievalle. Rie empties itself into Derwent. The abbey, of which there are fine remains to this day, stands near Helmsley, in Yorkshire. We find a particular description of Walter D'Espec given by Ethelred or Ailred, second Abbot of Rievalle, an elegant and spirited writer, in his History of the Battle of the Standard. He is there represented as a person of the first eminence and esteem in the English army, haranguing them before the battle from the carriage in which the famous standard was erected. ‘Vir senex et plenus Dierum, acer ingenio, in Consiliis prudens, in Bello Amicitiam Sociis, fidem semper Regibus servans. Erat ei statura ingens, membra omnia tantae magnitudinis, ut nec modum excederent, et tantae proceritati congruerent. Capilli nigri, barba prolixa, frons patens et libera, oculi grandes et perspicaces, facies amplissima, tracticia tamen, vox tubae similis, facundiam quae ei facilis erat, quadam soni majestate componens.’ Dec. Scr.

An account of the dispositions made by both armies before the battle known by the name of Bellum Standardi, as collected from Historians of character, may not be disagreeable to the reader in this place, though not pertinent to this work.

This expedition of David's was unfortunate to the Scotch: they were joined by Eustace Fitz-John Lord of Alnwick, who resented Stephen's taking from him Bambrough, and who hoped to have regained that fortress by the arms of the Scottish King. The castle sustained the assault of the whole army, and remained impregnable. David with fire and sword laid waste the country to Durham, where he was joined by the men of Galloway, Cumberland, and Carlisle, augmenting his army so, that it consisted of 26,000 men at the least. He was opposed near Northallerton by a much smaller number, chiefly consisting of the nobles and men of Yorkshire, headed by their Archbishop Thurston, whose presence animated them to the highest pitch of bravery. The mast of a ship, having on its top a cross, wherein was the consecrated host in a silver pix, and the banners of St. Peter, St. John of Beverley, and St. Wilfrid of Ripon waving below it, was erected on the beam of a vast chariot. Around this standard, and some of them upon the carriage on which it stood, were placed the more aged of the English Barons, and with these Roger de Moubrai the infant Earl of Northumberland. Roger was the son of Negel de Albanei, who at the battle of Tinchebrai, in Normandy, took Duke Robert prisoner; for which and other great services, King Henry rewarded him by a gift of the lands of Robert de Moubrai Earl of Northumberland, which had been forfeited on account of his rebellion against William Rufus. His presence drew around him all his vassals, who made no inconsiderable part of the English army. Immediately before the battle, Ralph Bishop of the Orkneys, deputed by the aged and infirm Thurstan, having assured the army that by fighting bravely they would purchase the remission of their sins, did, on receiving their confessions, actually pronounce their absolution, joining to it his benediction; at the same time the priests in their white vestments carrying crosses and relics, went among the ranks, encouraging the soldiers by their exhortations and prayers. These pious acts were accompanied with a wise arrangement of the English warriors, adapted to sustain and repel the first fierce onset of their enemies. The Abbot of Rievalle relates, that David was prevented making the disposition he intended by the obstinacy of the Gall•waymen, who claimed it as their right to fight in the van, a station which David and his best officers perceived they were not fit for, on account of their wanting heavy armour, such as was borne by those who stood in the first rank of the English army. The King however fearing sedition, at a time when it might have proved so fatal, was obliged to grant these troops their request. The next line was commanded by Prince Henry, consisting, as Aulred says, of knights and archers, or according to Huntington, of English and Norman horsemen, who belonged to his father's household, and with them the men of Cumberland and Tiviotdale. In this division was also Eustace Fitz-John. The third line consisted of the Laodomains with the Islanders and Lavernans. The King had in his own line the Scots and Murraymen, and for his body guard a band of English and Scotch Knights. Robert Brus and Bernard Baliol, both of whom, besides the great estates they possessed in England, did also hold lands of the Scottish King, went to him before the battle, and endeavoured to persuade him to retire, assuring him that Northumberland should be delivered to his son Henry; but not being able to prevail, they renounced their fealty to David, and returned to fight under the English standard."[*]

↵

*
Richard Hagulst.—Ailz. Abb. Rev. C. 342.—Lord Lyttleton.—Sir James Dalrymple.
↵

*
A.D. 1158, Iterum firmatum est castellum de Werk praecepto Regis. Lel. Collecta. 206.
↵

*
A. D. 1383 & 7 Rich. Scotti ceperunt castellum de Werk super Fluv Twede & depraedatum incenderunt. Lel. Collecta. 252.
↵

*
Robertus Ros tenet Baroniam de Werk. Lel. Col. 200.
↵

†

Robert de Ross, one of this family, with John de Baliol, were guardians of Alexander King of Scotland, on his marriage with Margaret eldest daughter of King Henry III. of whom the following unaccountable anecdote gained acceptation:—‘That they were guilty of injurious conduct towards their charge, by denying them social intercourse: on the information of an English Physician, they were punished; Baliol by a large sum in mulct, and Ross by confiscation of his estates. King Henry and his Queen, from their parental feelings, made a journey to Edinburgh, to see them possessed of their wishes.’—This remarkable tale we have in Hollinghead's Chronicle.

William de Ross, the successor of Robert, on the death of Alexander King of Scotland, was a competitor for that Crown, with William de Vesey Baron of Alnwick, Florence Earl of Holland, Patrick de Dunbar, Robert de Pinkney, Nicholas de Sauls, Patric Golightly, Robert Bruce, and John Baliol, 1292.

↵

‡

Of this illustrious family of Greys we have the following account:

- Their arms gules, a lion rampant, with a border engrailed argent.

- Sir Thomas Grey, High Sheriff 9 King Henry IV.

- Sir Ralph — ditto 34 & 38 King Henry VI.

- Sir Ralph — ditto 5 Queen Elizabeth.

- Sir Thomas — ditto 16 Queen Elizabeth.

- Sir William, created a Baronet 17 King James I.

- He was made a Peer by the title of Lord Grey of Wark 21 King James I.

- — Lieutenant General of the parliament army under Lord Fairfax.

- — joint Chancellor with Lental of the Duchy of Lancaster 21 King Charles I.

- — made joint Keeper with Sir Thomas Widdrington of the Great Seal, 1647.His son Ford Grey was created Viscount Glendale and Earl of Tankerville 7 King William III.

- He married Mary daughter of Earl Berkley, and had one child, Mary, who married Charles Bennet Earl of Ossulton.

- Ralph Grey, Governor of Barbadoes.

- Lady Ossulton his niece became his heir, and having a son, he was created Earl of Tankerville, 1 King George I. His son

- Charles Earl of Tankerville was Lord Lieutenant of Northumberland and Newcastle upon Tyne.

- Charles the present Earl of Tankerville.

↵

*

In Lord Wharton's proposals for better protection of the Marches, it seems that the castle of Wark was then held by the Crown. On the accession of King James I. all the fortresses on the borders were ordered to be reduced and dismantled, and it is most probable that was the period when Wark went finally to ruin.

↵

CARHAM,

memorable for the battle fought here with the Danes. In Leland's Col. p. 520, it is thus mentioned: ‘In the 33 yere of Ecbrighth the Danis arrived at Lindisfarne, and fought with the Engles at Carham, wher eleven Bishopes and 2 Englisch Countes were slayne, and greate numbre of people.’ At this place a great battle was fought in the year 1018, in which the Scots were victorious, and almost all the fighting men between Tees and Tweed were cut off, together with their Chieftains; on which event it is said by some authors, that Aldun Bishop of Durham died broken-hearted.[†]

Here was an Abbey of Black Canons, subordinate to Kirkham in Yorkshire. In the 24th year of King Edward I. it was burnt by the Scots, then led by Wallace, whose encampment gave name to an adjacent field. In Edward's letter to Pope Boniface, he describes their cruelties in a most horrible manner; ‘The Scots inhumanly destroyed an innumerable multitude of his subjects, burnt monasteries, churches, and towns; with an unpitying and savage cruelty, slew infants in their cradles, and women in child-bed, barbarously cut off womens breasts, and burnt in a school, whose doors they first built up, about 200 young men, who were learning their first letters and grammar.’ Rym. II. 887. In the 44th year of King Edward III. 1370, Sir John Lilburn was defeated by the Scots near this place, under the command of Sir John Gordon, who was returning from an incursion with many prisoners, and a great train of cattle: the engagement was fierce, and its decision long doubtful, the Scots being driven from their ground and returning again five several times. In the end Sir John and his brother were made prisoners.

We arrived at

Notes

†
Infelicissime pugnatum ab Anglis contra Scottos apud Carham. Lel. Collectea. 330.
↵

CORNHILL,

noted for the valuable Spaws near it. By the escheats of the 1st year of King Edward I. we find this place mentioned as the possession of William de Cornhill. The castle of Cornhill, I presume, was the fort or tower, near Cornhill Bridge, and opposite to Linnel House. The remains are surrounded with a ditch, called the Castle Stone Nich. It has been well situated for defending the passage over the river. Here is a seat house of Henry Collingwood, Esq commanding a view of the ground we had traversed on the north side of Tweed, extended to the Helton Mountains; and on the southern side of the river having a prospect of a wide country, over which many Gentlemen's seats are dispersed, the whole closed by a range of mountains, of which Cheviots are supreme. In 1549, on an incursion of the Scots, they took the castle of Cornhill, described as being an old house of considerable strength,[*] and a valuable booty was gained.

In 1751, in pulling down Cornhill chapel, there was found, about three feet lower than the old foundation, a coffin of stone, about eight feet long, in which were two urns of coarse pottery, and the shank bones and scull of a person of great size.

South-east of Cornhill is a remarkable encampment, but to what people or to what particular event they appertained, I have gained no certain information. The several lines are of great extent, but as they form no regular figure, in their present state, do not merit a particular description: what is worthy of notice, is the mode in which the works are defended, by ranges of conic eminences; a thing singular, and what rather confounds my judgment as to the antiquity of the place, and who were its occupants. Mr Wallis says they are sepulchral Tumuli; from which opinion I must beg leave to dissent.

In Branxton West Field is a column, placed as a memorial of the battle fought there on the 9th of September, in the 5th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. called the battle of Flodden Field, from the Scotch encampment on Flodden Hill. The disposition of the Earl of Surry's forces was such, as to oblige the Scotch to come to an engagement, their retreat into their own country being cut off.

James IV. had wasted much time at Ford, captivated, as it is said, by the beauties of the daughter of Sir William Heron, so as give the Earl of Surry time and opportunity for advancing towards the borders with a large army. The Scottish Nobles were averse to hazarding a battle, and strenuously insisted on the policy of their return into their own country, loaded as they were with spoils, and having gathered many laurels in their campaign: but James, fired with resentment at the challenges sent by Surry, determined to engage the English, and for that purpose made choice of an advantageous situation for his army, in the neighbourhood of Ford. The eminence called Flodden, lays on the opposite side of the river Till; it is the last and lowest of those hills that extend on the north-east of the great mountain of Cheviot, towards the low grounds on the side of the Tweed; from which river, Flodden is distant about four miles: The ascent to the top of it, from the side of the river Till, where it takes a northerly direction, just by the foot of the declivity on which the castle and village of Ford stands, is about half a mile; and over the Till, at that place, there is a bridge. On the south of Flodden, lays the extensive and very level plain of Milfield; having on its west side high hills, the branches of Cheviot; on the north, Flodden and other moderate eminences adjoining to it; on the south and east, a tract of rising grounds, nigh the foot of which is the slow and winding course of the Till. The nearest approach for the English army to Flodden, was through this plain, in every part whereof they would have been in full view of the Scots; where they had a great advantage in possessing an eminence, which on the side towards the English had a long declivity, with hollow and marshy grounds at its foot; while its crown contained such an extent of almost level ground, as would have sufficed for drawing up in good order the forces that occupied it. Surry encamped on Wooler Haugh, on the 7th of September, 1513, sent a Herald with a challenge, to join battle in the plain the next day, between the hours of twelve and three. This challenge was dated the 7th of September, 5 o'clock in the afternoon, as appears by Stowe, p. 493. The names of the subscribers were, Surry and his Son, Thomas Dacre, Clifford, Henry Scrope, Ralph Scrope, Richard Latimer, William Conyers, John Lumley, R. Ogle, William Percy, Edward Stanley, William Molineux, Marmaduke Constable, William Gascoyne, William Griffith, George Darcy, William Bulmer, Thomas Strangeways, &c. James did not accept the challenge, but lay in his intrenchments, whilst Surry advanced his army near to Barmoor Wood, about two miles distant from the Scotch army, and lay there all night. A little hill on the east of Ford, covered the English army from the observation of their enemies; whilst, from this eminence, the Lord Admiral obtained a distinct view of all the Scottish army, and of all the eminences near it. The next morning the English made some marches to amuse the enemy, and then gained the ground which cut off James's retreat to Scotland. By this position of his forces, Surry had an access opened to the Scottish camp, much less difficult and dangerous than on the other side of Flodden. The batteries raised by the Scotch to command the Bridge of of Ford, of which the vestiges still remain, were now rendered of no use. The Scots, deluded either by the treacherous advice of one Giles Musgrave, who engaged the King's confidence, and abused the royal ear, or depending that Surry, by his mode of marching the army, intended to gain Berwick, and avoid a battle, appeared now to be confounded by the manoeuvres of the English, which bespoke their determination to come to an engagement; in order to receive them with the greater advantage, and to gain the ground they supposed the English would attempt to possess, on the western side of the hill, the Scots set fire to their huts on the eastern side, and made a motion to the west. The smoke being driven between the armies, concealed the progress the English were making, till they had almost gained the foot of the hill. Surry observed the confusion his approach had occasioned among the Scotch troops, and finding the ascent of the hill short and moderately steep, determined not to delay the onset.

The English were disposed in three divisions; the van under Thomas Howard, the General's eldest son, Lord Admiral of England, the right wing being led by Sir Edmund Howard, brother to Lord Thomas, and Knight Marshal of the army. The middle division, or main battle, was led by the Earl of Surry in person, and the rear by Sir Edward Stanley. The Lord Dacres commanded a body of reserve, consisting of horsemen. The ordnance was placed in the front of the battle, and in the openings of the several divisions. After they had passed the little brook of Sandyford, the Lord Admiral perceiving the Scots approaching towards him, drawn up in four great bodies, armed with long spears, like Moorish pikes, sent to his father the Agnus Dei that hung at his breast, as a token, accompanying a request, that as the van of the army was not sufficiently strong or extensive to receive the brunt of the whole Scottish army, his father would bring up the forces of his division, and range them in a line with the van. The English General, convinced of the expediency of this disposition, immediately came forward with his forces, and drew them up to the left of those of his son. The mode in which the Scots advanced to battle is variously described: Paulus Jovius says, they were formed in five square bodies, so that the third of those in which the royal standard was erected, and all the chief men fought, was inclosed on each side by a double line, forming, as it were, two wings. Comparing the several accounts, it seems most probable that the battalia was thus arranged: The van of the Scotch army led on the right by Alexander Gordon Earl of Huntley, and on the left by the Earls of Crawford and Montrose, and some say Lord Hume: the King was in the center or main body: a third division was commanded by the Earls of Lenox and Argyle with whom were Mackenzie, Maclean, and the Highlanders. Adam Hepburn Earl of Bothwell, with his kindred and clan, and the men of Lothian formed a body of reserve. They had with them a large train of artillery. The English artillery began to play, which made a dreadful carnage, whilst the Scotch cannon, from their high situation, took little or no effect, the shot going over the heads of the English. This obliged the Scotch to advance, the Earls of Lenox and Argyle, together with Lord Hume, moving with a body of ten thousand spearmen, supported by some horse, down the hill towards Branxion, made a fierce attack on the wing commanded by Sir Edmund Howard. The shock was violent, the Scots prevailed, and Sir Edmund was reduced to the last extremity, himself beaten to the ground the third time, and in imminent peril of Death, when Lord Dacres, and Heron the Bastard, who had joined the English army with a troop of fierce outlaws, his followers, came in time to his rescue. Sir Edmund, thus relieved, immediately joined the body commanded by his brother Lord Thomas, and they advancing against the Earls of Crawford and Montrose, whose troops were armed with spears, put them to the rout, and both the Earls were slain. On the other side of the field, Sir William Stanley, with the forces from Lancashire and Cheshire, being bowmen, forced the Scots to break their array, and descend to closer fight, in more even ground, where they were soon thrown into confusion, and put to flight, after leaving the Earls of Argyle and Lenox with the slain. The English attributed this success to the archers, but the Scotch writers alledge, the miscarriage of this part of their army was owing to the undisciplined ferocity of the Highlanders, who, animated by the success of the attack made on that wing of the English army commanded by Sir Edmund Howard, could not be restrained from rushing impetuously forward, in an irregular and open manner, notwithstanding the signals, cries, and menaces of the French Ambassador La Motte, who perceived the consequence of such an improper and loose attack. The King of Scotland, whose bravery kindled to extravagance of courage at the perils which now seemed to surround him, deaf to every advice and remonstrance, pressed forward, and exposed his royal person to all the dangers of the field: being sustained by Bothwell and his band, he charged on foot, at the head of the best of his troops, whose armour resisted the arrows of the English archery; he pressed forward to the standards of the Earl of Surry, and with such ardour and valour, that they were nearly gained by this heroic phalanx: but at length the wings of the Scotch army being totally routed, all the English forces were employed against this valiant band, who were surrounded by the coming in of Lord Dacre's horse in the rear.

A considerable body of Borderers, commanded by Lord Hume, stood aloof during the most arduous part of the battle; and when he was required by Huntley, to attempt the King's deliverance from the circle of his enemies, he answered, ‘that the man did well that day that stood and saved himself.’ Before the battle the old Earl of Angus, anxious to dissuade the King from engaging, was told by his Sovereign, that if he was afraid he might go home. The Earl judging it repugnant to his honour, to fight under the standard of a Prince from whom he had received so great an affront, requested he might be dismissed the service; but as pledges of his loyalty and firm attachment to James, left as hostages of his honour, a large body of kindred and dependents, with his two sons, who both fell in the battle.

This memorable battle began at four o'clock in the afternoon, and continued till it was dark. King James IV. was slain, with his natural son, the Bishop of St Andrews, [*] two other Scotch Prelates, four Abbots, twelve Earls, seventeen Lords, four hundred Knights, and seventeen thousand others, among whom were many Esquires and men of note. When the Scotch King was perceived to be in imminent danger, those near his person formed themselves in circular order, and all fell by the sword, except Sir William Scott his Chancellor, and Sir John Foreman, who were taken prisoners. The royal body was not discovered till the next day, when, in a circle of his slain Nobility, he was found by Lord Dacres, who was well acquainted with his person. After the royal remains were removed to Berwick, Sir William Scott, Chancellor of Scotland, and Sir John Foreman, prisoners there, acknowledged the body of their late Sovereign. He was wounded in many parts, pierced also by several arrows; his left hand was almost severed from the arm by two several wounds, and his neck was laid open to the middle. How unfortunate was this race of Kings! James I. was murdered by the Earl of Athol, his uncle, in his palace. James II. died by the bursting of a piece of his own ordnance. James III. was slain by rebels, headed by his own son, James IV. whose miserable death is above described. His body was embalmed at Berwick, and from thence conveyed to the monastery of Sheene, where, at the dissolution, according to Stowe, it remained uninterr'd, and then thrown into a waste room among lumber.[*] The
FOORD CASTLE. South Aspect.

standards taken on this victory were carried to the cathedral of Durham. The loss of the English was computed at fifteen hundred, in which number scarce a man of considerable note was included. The disproportion of the slain was attributed to the English artillery and archers.

After passing this scene, where every reflection was filled with horror, it is not to be wondered that the beauties of Etal should be enhanced. We passed in view of

Notes

*
Ridpath's Border History.
↵

*

In the ingenious notes by the Rev. Mr Lamb of Norham, to the ancient poem on Flodden Field Fight, we have the following concise account of Howard Earl of Surry. "Thomas Howard Earl of Surry was knighted for his remarkable courage at the battle of Barnet; he was made Knight of the Garter 1 King Richard III. He was taken prisoner at the battle of Bosworth, and committed to the Tower by King Henry VII. and attainted by Parliament. King Henry asked him how he durst bear arms in behalf of that tyrant Richard? To which he answered, ‘He was my crowned King, and if the parliamentary authority of England set the crown upon a stock, I will fight for that stock; and as I fought then for him, I will fight for you, when you are established by the said authority.’ In the rebellion against the King by the Earl of Lincoln, the Lieutenant of the Tower offered him the keys of the Tower, in order to set himself at liberty; but he replied, ‘that he would not be delivered by any power, but by that which had committed him.’ After he had been in prison three years and a half, the King gave him his liberty; and knowing his worth and nice sense of honour, took him into favour, and delivered up to him all his estates. The Earl took all occasions of relieving the oppressed subjects, and was accounted one of the ablest and greatest men in the kingdom. The Scots made an irruption into England, and besieged Norham Castle: the Earl raised the siege, took the castle of Ayton, and made all the country round a desert. James IV. of Scotland, incensed at this, sent a Herald with a challenge to him; to which he made a sensible and spirited answer, ‘that his life belonged to the King, whilst he had the command of his army; but when that was ended he would fight the King on horseback or on foot; adding, that if he took the King prisoner in the combat, he would release him without any ransom; and that if the King should vanquish him, he would then pay such a sum for his liberty, as was competent for the degree of an Earl.’ In the year 1501 the Earl was Lord High Treasurer. In June, 1502, Margaret the King's daughter, a beautiful Princess, at the age of 14 years, was attended by the Earl of Surry, with a great company of Lords, Ladies, Knights, and Esquires, to the town of Berwick: she was conveyed to St Lambert's church in Lamyr Moor, where King James, attended by the chief Nobility, received her, and carried her to Edinburgh. The next day after her arrival there, she was with great solemnity married unto him, in the presence of all his Nobles. The King gave great entertainments to the English, whom the Scotch Noblemen and Ladies far outshone, both in costly apparel, rich jewels, massive chains, habiliments set with goldsmith's work garnished with pearl, and stones of price, and in gallant and well-trapped horses. They made also great feasts for the English Lords and Ladies, and shewed them justling and other pleasant pastimes, as good as could be devised after the manner of Scotland. Divers Ladies of Queen Margaret's train remained in Scotland, and were afterwards well married to Noblemen. In 1507, two years before the death of King Henry VII. the Earl was Ambassador to the King of France; 2 King Henry VIII. he was made Earl Marshal for life; in 1511 he was one of the Commissioners at the Court of Arragon. When King Henry VIII. heard that the Scots were preparing to invade England, he said, ‘that he had left a Nobleman who would defend his subjects from insults.’ After the battle of Flodden, the Earl himself presented King James's armour to the Queen Regent. When the King returned from France, he gave the Earl an augmentation of his arms, viz. to bear on the bend the upper part of a red lion depicted in the same manner as the arms of Scotland, pierced thro' the month with an arrow. In 1514 the Earl was created Duke of Norfolk, and a grant was given him in special tail of several manors. He hated and opposed Cardinal Wolsey, because he advised the King to pursue measures hurtful to the liberties of the people: finding that his opposition prevailed nothing, he resigned his post, and retired from Court. He died in the year 1524.

After these Lords were dead or fled,

And companies left captainless;

Their soldiers then did fly with speed,

With souls of horror and distress.

Whom Stanley with his total strength,

Swiftly pursues unto the plain;

Where on the King he light at length,

Who fighting was with all his main.

When his approach the King perceiv'd,

With stomach stout he him withstood;

His Scots right bravely then behav'd,

And battle boldly there abode.

Then showers of arrows, fierce were shot,

Which did each side so pierce and gall;

That ere they came to handy strokes,

Great numbers on the ground did fall.

The King himself was wounded sore,

An arrow in his forehead light;

That he could scarce fight any more,

The blood so blemished his fight.

Fight on my men, the King then said,

Yet Fortune she may turn the scale;

And for my wounds be not dismay'd,

Nor ever let your courage fail.

Thus dying did he brave appear,

Till shades of death did close his eyes;

Till then he did his soldiers cheer,

And raise their courage to the skeys.

But what avail'd his valour great,

Or bold device, 'twas all in vain;

His Captains keen fell at his feet,

And Standard-Bearer too was slain.

The Archbishop of St. Andrews brave,

King James his son in base begot,

That doleful day did death receive,

With many a lusty lordlike Scot. Poem of Flodden.

William Bishop of St. Andrews was a most accomplished youth, handsome, tall, and genteel, endued with excellent parts, great sweetness of temper, virtue, prudence, and liberality; he was skilled in the civil Law, Latin, Greek, and Music. The elegant pen of Erasmus, who was one of his Preceptors at Siena, in Italy, has set his incomparable character in a most amiable light. By a dispensation from the Pope, the King created him Archbishop of St. Andrews, 1509, and made him his Chancellor, 1511: he was also made the Pope's Legate at Latere.

It was not unusual, in ancient times, for the Dignitaries of the Church to attend their King in the wars; they were bound to do it by the feudal law. They held the temporalities of their benefices of the King as Barons, by the tenure of military service. It appears from many grants to the Clergy, that according to the establishment of the church of Scotland, the clerical and military character were not inconsistent. King Edward III. 1368, ordered all the Clergy to take up arms.

↵

*

King James was killed in the 25th year of his reign, and the 39th of his age. He was of a majestic countenance, of a middle size, and a strong body. By the use of exercise, a slender diet, and much watching, he could easily bear the extremities of weather, fatigue, and scarcity. He excelled in fencing, shooting, and riding. He delighted in fine horses, the breed of which he endeavoured to propagate in his own country, as it appears from several letters still extant, which he wrote to the Kings of Spain and Poland, entreating them that they would suffer his servants to buy such horses and mares as their respective dominions afforded. In return, he made them presents of hunting dogs, and of the famous little ambling horses called galloways, bred in the mountains and isles of Scotland. About the year 1508, the Lord of Campvere sent him many fine large Flanders horses; and also King Henry VII. several fine horses and rich furniture. He was of a quick wit, which by the negligence of those times was uncultivated with letters. He had great skill in the art of curing wounds, which was then common to the Scotch Nobles, always in arms. He was of a high spirit, of easy access, courteous, and mild; just in his judicial decisions, merciful in his punishments, which he inflicted upon offenders always unwillingly. He was poor, from his profusion in sumptuous buildings, public shews, entertainments, and gifts.

As long as he lived he wore an iron chain girdle, to which he every year added one link, in testimony of his sorrow for having appeared at the head of the rebels who killed his father, contrary to his express orders. Bishop Lesley concludes his Life of James with telling us, that the Scotch nation lost in him, a King most warlike, just, and holy. Certain it is, that he was so dear to his subjects, that his death was more lamented than that of his predecessor ever was.

He married Margaret the eldest daughter of King Henry VII. by whom he left two sons, the eldest not two years old. About a year after King James's death, she married Archibald Douglas Earl of Angus, by whom she had a beautiful daughter, Margaret, born A. D. 1516, at Harbottle Castle, in Northumberland, afterwards the wife of Matthew Stewart Earl of Lenox, and by him mother to Henry Lord Darnley, father to King James I.

Lamb's Notes to the Poem of Flodden.

The Excommunication pronounced against this Monarch not having been solemly revoked, and absolution granted, was the cause why the royal remains had not received interment.

↵

FORD CASTLE,[*]

the seat of Odonel de Ford in the time of King Edward I. from whom, by marriage, it came to the family of Herons.[†] It was the possession of Sir William Heron in the reign of King Henry III. who was Governor of the castles of Bambrough, Pickering, and Scarbrough, Lord Warden of the Forests North of Trent and Sheriff of Northumberland for eleven successive years. In the year 1385 the Scotch, under the Earls of Fife, March, and Douglas, making an incursion by the western Marches, laid waste the country as far as Newcastle, and demolished the fortresses of Ford, Wark, and Cornhill. Previous to the battle of Flodden, James's troops assaulted and took Ford Castle. It was in this place the Scotch King found Elizabeth the wife of Sir William Heron (who was then a prisoner in Scotland) together with their daughter, a Lady of great beauty; with whose charms the King was so fascinated, as was before observed, that for several days he desisted from all military advances, even under the momentous circumstance of the Earl of Surry's hasty approach. It was suspected by some, according to Drummond, p. 74, that Surry being acquainted with the King's amorous constitution, continued the detention of the Lady of Ford and her daughter in their castle, in order to stay the advances of the Scotch troops, till he could by long marches come up with them.[*]

In 1549, the Scotch under the the command of D'Esse, a French General of great military skill, made an incursion with a considerable army, attended with four field pieces: they made an attack upon the castle of Ford, and laid the greatest part of it in ashes. One of the towers, defended by Thomas Car, made a gallant defence, and remained unreduced.

This castle came to the family of Carr of Etal, by marriage with the heiress of the Herons; whose daughter and heiress married Edward Delaval, Esq the ancestor of the present proprietor, Sir John Hussey Delaval. [†]

About a mile to the east, lays Barmoor, an ancient estate of the Muschamps. And at about an equal distance to the west,

Notes

*
Foord Castle in Glyndale apon the east syd of Tille. It is metly stronge, but in decay. Lel. Itin. v. 7. p. 54.
↵

†

- William de Heron King Henry I.

- Jordan de Heron King Henry III.

- Sir William de Heron Hing Henry III.

- Sir William Heron 44 King Edward III.

- He was Ambassador to France and Steward of the King's Houshold King Henry IV.

- Sir John Heron, his brother.

- Sir John Heron, nephew and heir of Sir William High Sheriff five years. King Henry VI.

- Sir William Heron, High Sheriff 17 King Henry VIII.

- Elizabeth Heron, heiress, married Thomas Carr, Esq Etal. His heiress married Sir Francis Blake, whose daughter Mary married Edward Delaval, the ancestor of Sir John Hussey Delaval.

Wallis.

↵

*

Here is a tradition, that King James returning from a visit to Mrs Ford [*] at Ford Castle, found himself in danger of drowning in his passage through the Tweed, near Norham, at the West Ford, which is pretty deep on the Scotch side. Upon which he made a vow to the Virgin Mary, that if she would carry him safe to land, he would erect and dedicate a church to her upon the banks of the Tweed; which he performed in the jubilee year, A. D. 1500, according to an old inscription upon the church, mostly now defaced. This Gothic structure is much admired; it is entirely of stone. The roof of it rests upon what the masons call here, point cast arches, which are supported by nineteen buttresses. William Robertson, Esq added to this church a handsome steeple, A. D. 1743, and in 1769 paned the greatest part of it.

Lamb's Notes to the Poem of Flodden.

↵

*
A mistake in the Editor of this Poem.
↵

†

Ex rotula Curiali Northumbriae.

Odonellus de Ford—Leprosi de Bolton—Eustachius de la Vale —Radulphus de Blenkenshop tenet Blenkenshop de Nicolas de Bolteby—Thomas de Fetherstanhaugh—Joannes de la Dene— Priorissa de Lamley—Joannes de Hawelton tenet in capite de Domino rege Halton Claverwwurth & Wetingtun—Joannes de Esselington—Thomas Bedenhaul de Bedenhaul—Joannes Rex dedit Roberto filio Rogeri Newburne cum pertinentiis—Joannes filius Roberti tenet in capite de Domino rege Corbruge quod est Burgus, pro 40 li. per annum ad feod. firmam—Nicolaus de Bolteby—Gul. Heron—Hugo de Bolebek tenet in capite de Domino rege 5 feoda—Willyam Burneton—Willyam Heron—Robertus de Wechester—Odonellus de Insula—Radulphus de Cangi—Alexandre de Bradeford—Hugo de Morewik—Baro de Graystoke—Rogerus Marley— Radulphus de Merley—Hugo de Gubion—Richardus de Boinden—Gul. Coniers—Joannes Plessys—Galfridus de Wetslade—Adam Barrette—Rogerus Bertham—Robertus filius Ranulphi —Eustachius de la Vale—Gul. de Crancestre—Robertus de Muschampe tenet in capite de Domino rege 4 feoda: de quibus Odonellus de Ford tenet unum, Robertus de Maners tenet dim. Robertus de Heddam 4 partem unius feodi—Gul. de Ros tenet in capite de Domino rege 2 feoda. Joannes de Viscount—Nicolaus de Farindun—Radulphus super Thays—Gilbertus de Unfranville tenet 2 feod. de rege—Unfranville de Insula—Henricus de Halton—Thomas de Fenwik— Bernardus de Babington—Galfridus de Haiden.

Ex Veredicta de terris Northumbr. anno 3. Henricus de Ulcotes tenet manerium de Devilston —Emma Uxor Gualteri filii Gilberti nupsit Petro de Vallibus—Robertus Taileboys—Matildis de Claverworth—Emma de Aeiden—Alicia de Morwik nupsit Rogero Galafre—Nicolaus de Biker—Thomas de Wautham—Dominos rex habet in villo de novo castro 110 •ol & 6 depar. reddituum, quos dedit Burgensibus ejusdem villae pro terris suis, quas amiserunt per fossata Domini regis—Thomas Statton.

Lel. Collect. 200.

↵

PALINSBURN,

the seat of John Askew, Esq Improvements in husbandry and cultivation have become the prevailing passion of the age; and in this country the advances are rapid. I am informed [*] that Mr Askew lately found some small earthen vessels or urns in his estate, of a singular form, being triangular; that they are of coarse pottery, and it is that gentleman's opinion, they are of Danish manufacture, and enclosed the heart of the deceased. On what this conjecture is founded, I profess my Ignorance. We read of the heart of one which was sent embalmed to the holy sepulchre, and the heart of John Bailey, who died at Newby Abbey, was embalmed by Dovergilla his wife, lodged in an ivory case, and deposited at the high altar. But I am uninformed of any custom among the Britons, Romans, Saxons, or Danes, in this country, of interring the heart separate.

Notes

*
Mr Culley, who lately visited Palinsburn.
↵

ETAL

is a modern elegant structure, the seat of the late Sir William Carr, Bart. but its appearance is not improved by the avenue on the south: the opening of the village, which presents a prospect of the towers of the old castle of the family of Manners, [†] is an elegance which is at once uncommon and highly pleasing. Etal was one of the dependent manors of the Barony of Wooler, and the castle was built by Sir Robert Manners, 15 King Edward III.[*] The prospect over the vale by the river Till is beautiful, graced with plantations, formed in a good taste, upon the natural eminences: the distant scene is mountainous and august; Watchlaw, a beacon hill, towards the east; the hills of Branxton and Flodden to the south-west, and beyond them the torrs of Newton; Yevering Bell, Cheviots, Akeld, and Humbledon, afford the contemplative spectator noble subjects for animadversion.

Lord Wharton, in 1552, appointed Etal to be the residence of the Deputy Warden of the East Marches.

Near a square intrenchment called the Haly Chesters, is a stone cross, but of what event it is a memorial is not known.—In the road from Cornhill, we passed

Notes

†

Sir Thomas Manners, Lord Ros, of Etal, was created Earl of Rutland 17 King Henry VIII. 1526. Sir Robert de Manners, in the 15th of King Edward III. built the castle of Etal.— James IV. before the battle of Flodden Field, assaulted and took this castle, and ruined part of its fortifications.

↵

*
Etel Castel stondinge on playne grownde, hard on the este syde of Tyll longynge to the Erle of Rutland.—Lel. I
•
n. v. 7. p. 54.

↵

TILMOUTH,[†]

the ancient manor of the family of Ridell, held of the Bishop of Durham, by half a Knight's fee, under the castle of Norham; it afterwards came to the Claverings, by marriage, and is now the possession of Sir Francis Blake.

At a little distance are the ruins of

Notes

†
The Vicar of Tillemuth did write an historie, thus intituled, Historia arirea, wherein is much to be seene of Kinge William Conquerors cuming yn to England.—Lel. Col. 509.
↵

HETON,[‡]

an estate of the family of Greys, [§] who were Governors of Norham, Wark, and Roxburgh, now in the possession of Lord Tankerville. The castle was of a square figure, and very strong; on the west side it had an area or court, called the Lion's Court: it sustained a siege by the Scots, before the battle of Flodden Field: on the north side was a vault capable of receiving an hundred horses or other cattle.

On a fine peninsula formed by the confluence of the Till and Tweed, are the ruins of a small chapel, called St. Cuthbert's Chapel; near which lie the remains of a stone boat or coffin, ten feet long within, and three and a half wide, eighteen inches deep, and four inches and a half thick; it is of a singular form, and a strange traditional history is told of it, that St. Cuthbert's remains not resting at Norham, were carried to Mailross, where shewing the same signs of agitation and restlessness as had occasioned former removals, by a vision the attendants were ordered to pacify his impatient spirit, by constructing a boat of stone, in which the sacred relics floated down the Tweed 20 miles to Tilmouth. [*] It is said that not long ago there was a design to convert this hallowed vessel to mean offices, a peasant having devised to pickle pork in it, or thereout to feed his hogs: to preserve it from such profanation, the spirits of darkness brake it in the night, leaving the fragments near the chapel.

We passed under

Notes

‡
Eyton Castle longing to Sir Edward Graye 2 miles lower on Tyll than Etel. It stondithe on the west syd of Tille. The Scotts at Flodden Fild bet it sore.—Lel. Itin. v. 7. p. 54.
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§

- Of this House was Sir Thomas Grey, Governor of Norham Castle in the reign of King Edward II.

- Sir Thomas his son, Governor of Norham in the reign of King Edward III. In 1355, too rashly pursuing an advantage he had gained against the Scots, he was taken prisoner.

- Sir Thomas, Representative in Parliament for Northumberland 1 King Henry IV. Governor of the castle of Wark, executed for conspiring the death of that Sovereign.

- Sir Ralph Grey, knighted with King Henry VI. Governor of the castles of Wark and Roxburgh: he was made Governor of Bambrough Castle by the Lancastrian party, and was degraded and beheaded at Doncaster.

- Sir Edward in the time of King Henry VIII. and after him

- William Lord Grey of Wark.

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*
By some hydrostatical experiments, it has been proved capable of floating and carrying the remains of the Saint. These philosophical exhibitions in ages of profound ignorance, among the vulgar were always esteemed miracles and food for superstition.
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TWIZEL CASTLE,

built on a rocky eminence of uncommon appearance and singular form, said to be remarkably pleasant and agreeable within, the circular corners affording a great command of prospect. This is the seat of Sir Francis Blake, Baronet, F. R. S. The Lordship was anciently held of the Bishops of Durham, by an annual rent and suit at the seigniory court of Norham. [†] From the 4th year of the reign of King Edward III. it has been possessed by several families, Ridells, Selbys, and others. In Leland's Itinerary, it is mentioned thus: ‘so to Twisle bridge of stone, one bow, but great and strong, where is a tounlet and a towre.’

At a little distance is Grindon, where the Scots were defeated by Sir Thomas Percy the 6th Earl of Northumberland, and Sir Henry Percy, in the 5th of Queen Mary, 1558: the place is distinguished by four stone pillars.

We arrived at

Notes

†
The Lord of this manor has a singular right of fishing in Tilmouth Haugh Fishery; he is to use a ring net only, and the person who fishes is to stand on a place called Fillespote, on the south side of the river. The name probably a sarcasm on the nature of this fishery.
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NORHAM,

a pleasant village, in a low situation, on the banks of Tweed. This is a place of great antiquity, by Hoveden called Ubbanford, said to be built by Egfrid Bishop of Lindisfarn in the year 830, and gives the name of Norhamshire to a large tract of country, a member of the county of Durham.

Durham is a county palatine; by some authors it is said, the power of the palatinate commenced soon after the Norman conquest; but as no royal grant is to be found in the public repositories of records, we may presume it is of greater antiquity. The manors of Norham and Holy Island, and also the manor of Bedlington, commonly called Bedlingtonshire, anciently have been, and still continue parcels of the body of the said county palatine, and the inhabitants resort to Durham for justice, in all matters of law and civil jurisdiction, as members of the palatinate. Anciently Norham, Island, and Bedlingtonshires had several courts and officers of justice within their respective limits, under the Commissions of the Bishop of Durham, who held Jura Regalia within his See, as Justices, Sheriffs, Escheators, Coroners, and other officers, equally with the chief body of the county palatine laying between Tyne and Teese, until by act of parliament, in the 27th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. many of these royal franchises and jurisdictions were resumed to the Crown.

The royal remains of Ceolwulf were removed from Lindisfarn and deposited at Norham. A part of the old church is standing, and by some modern repairs is made a decent place of worship. Towards the east of the present church, the foundations of some buildings have lately been opened, and therein discovered a stone with sculptures upon it, and part of an inscription, faithfully copied in the plate.

I confess myself at a loss to decipher it, but presume it doth not relate to any historic matter: the stone appears to have been cut for the stalk of a font, many of those in old churches being sculptured; as the font of Bride Kirk, in Cumberland, another at Rothbury, and others I have seen.

Mr Lamb, in his notes to the Poem of Flodden Field Fight, gives the following remarks, extracted from Symeon Dunelm. and Hoveden:
Egred of noble birth was consecrated Bishop of Holy Island A. D. 831; he dedicated the church of Norham to the Saints Peter, Cuthbert, and Ceolwulf, which he built, together with the town, and gave them both to the See of Holy Island: he gave to it also the town of Jedburgh, in Tiviotdale, with its appendages, and the church and town of Gainforth, and whatever belonged to it, from the river Teise to the river Wear: these two towns the Bishop built."[*] "King Ceolwulf, to whom Bede dedicated his Ecclesiastical History, was a learned man; he was descended from Ida the first King of Northumberland. The former part of his reign was full of trouble; afterwards, in time of peace, many Northumbrian nobles and private men, with their King Ceolwulf, turned Monks: in the 10th year of his reign, A. D. 738, he quitted his crown for a cowl, and entered the monastery of Holy Island, to which place he carried his treasure, leaving his kingdom to Eadbert his uncle's son. He endowed the monastery with the towns of Braynshaw, Warkworth, and the church which he built there, and also four other villages, Wudecestre, Whittingham, Edlingham, and Eglingham, with their appendages. After a long life he was buried in that monastery, but the above-mentioned Bishop Egred took up his body, and deposited it in the church of Norham. His head was afterwards carried to the church at Durham.—The Monks of the cell of Norham, in the following age, called in the country to make their offerings at the shrine of their royal brother, who always performed some mighty miracle on his feast-day,[†] to the great astonishment and edification of his numerous worshippers.

Out of the foundations of this cell,[*] which belonged to the church of Holy Island, I dug a stone, on which were cut the effigies of three patrons of Norham church, St. Peter with his keys, St Cuthbert, and St. Ceolwulf with a sceptre in his hand.

There were three chantries in this church, one of which was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the founder not known. One Thomas de Kellawe occurs Chaplain in the year 1362.

The second chantry was founded by Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham, in the year 1288, and was dedicated to the blessed Virgin.

The third chantry was founded by William de Twisill in the year 1344, and was dedicated to St. Nicholas.

Gospatrick made Earl of Northumberland by William the Conqueror ended his days at Ubbanford, and was buried in the porch of the church there.[*]

This church had the privilege of a sanctuary.

About half a mile from the church stands the castle,

built by Ralph Flambert, Bishop of Durham, in the year 1121. Its situation is on the brink of a steep rock, whose foot is washed by the river Tweed.[†] This castle did not remain long unassailed by the Scots: in 1138, King David I. of Scotland besieged Norham: the castle at that time is described to consist of a very strong tower surrounded with a wall. The Scotch forces having refused to proceed on the incursion they had entered upon, Lent being come, retreated from the eastern part of the county of Durham, where they had committed dreadful depredations, and in their passage home undertook the siege of this castle, which was at that time thinly garrisoned, having only nine Knights of their corps. A gallant defence was made for some time, but no succours arriving, the place was surrendered, and the troops permitted to retire to Durham. David proposed to the Bishop to resign his castle, if he would renounce his allegiance to Stephen, in favour of the Empress Maude, which the Bishop refusing, he caused the town and castle of Norham to be destroyed.—Lyt. Hen. II. John of Hexham, Cont. Sym. Dunelm. Rich. of Hexham, Border History.

The castle and fortifications were restored by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, in the year 1174, at the instance of his kinsman King Stephen: he then built the great tower, which remains to this day: but this Bishop in the succeeding reign purchased his peace with the King of England, after certain defections in favour of the Scotch, by delivering up to him this castle. In 1176, we find the castle still in the hands of the Crown, William de Neville being Keeper or Governor, who was sworn upon the relics of Saints, that upon the event of the King's death, he would deliver it up to the Bishop, on receiving orders from Richard de Lucy, the Bishop of Winchester, or the Bishop of Ely; and if the Bishop should die, that the castle should be restored to St. Cuthbert's church at Durham, that the rights of that church might not be impaired. The castle of Berwick at the same time was governed by Geofrey de Neville, who was under the like oath in respect thereof.

In 1203, King John held a personal conference with William the Lion, King of Scotland, at this castle, touching the demand made by the Scotch King of the northern counties; but nothing was determined, and King John returned in great displeasure.

In the year 1209, King John came with a great army to Norham; the King of Scotland then assembling his troops at Roxburgh, a dreadful war seemed to be threatened, from King John's extravagant demands and vehement wrath against the Scotch; but by the intervention of the Nobility, the two Monarchs agreed to hold a conference for settling their disputes, at Newcastle; to which place the King of Scotland immediately repaired, attended by his brother David and a large train of Nobles; but being taken suddenly ill, a truce was concluded on till his health was restored. The dispute remaining unsettled, each Monarch again prepared for war, but a second interposition of the Nobility occasioned them to hold another conference at Norham, in the same year, when a treaty of peace was concluded between William King of Scotland and King John, in which John stipulated not to erect any fortress at Tweedmouth; William on the other hand depositing a large sum of money as restitution for the ravages he had committed on the English borders.

In the year 1211, the two Kings held another conference at the castle of Norham, at which Ermengard Queen of Scotland was present, and by her amiable conduct greatly promoted the treaty on which the Sovereigns had met. Here the terms of the former peace were ratified, and several new articles agreed to.

In the year 1213, King John, in the utmost terror of an insurrection of his subjects and an invasion from France, in consequence of the papal interdict which had been pronounced, came again to Norham, earnest to secure the amity of Scotland. William the Scotch King then lay dangerously ill, and was not able to proceed further than Haddington on his engagement to meet the King of England. Highly chagrined at this disappointment, he returned southward, and it was not long before his sentence of deposition was pronounced, his kingdom given to the king of France, and a croisade published against his territories by the Emissaries of the See of Rome. Driven to dreadful dilemma's, John was at length obliged to make his peace with the Holy See; the interdict, which had continued six years, was revoked, and the lands of those who had adhered to the papal authority against their Sovereign, and had been pronounced forfeitures to the Crown, of which those of Eustace de Vesey were part, were restored. Soon after this event succeeded that glorious combination of the Barons, under which the great charter and charter of the forests were obtained from the reluctant hands of this miserable tyrant. To those patriots, whose names ought to be engraven on the hearts of every Briton, we owe every thing valuable upon earth, the liberty we possess, and our authentic right to the properties we enjoy. To men of the North, the memory of Eustace de Vesey, Richard de Percy, Robert de Ros, Peter de Bruis, Nicholas D'Estoutesille, William de Moubrai, and Oliver de Vaux, northern Barons in this combination, should be immortal.

By Hemingford, and under his authority by Knighton, it is alledged, that the violations and injuries the Barons had sustained, as well touching their liberties and properties as in their private and family concerns, urged them to appear more readily in the promotion of this great work, the necessity for which had indeed long been experienced. The base tyrant was not content with public oppressions, but in his meanness of vice, even descended to the violation of the wives and daughters of his Barons; to which purpose he practised the vilest artifices. He had by stratagem possessed himself of the signet of Eustace de Vesey, by means of which he attempted to delude his Lady, that he might violate her chastity. Vesey by a happy discovery gained a knowledge of the King's intentions, and concerting measures with the Lady, had address enough to put a common prostitute into the arms of the tyrant, and preserve the honour of his family. Exulting in the success of his project, and amidst the fervour of a generous resentment, he reproached the King to his face with his baseness, reviled him for the possession of a strumpet, and defied his wrath.

But to return to the history of Norham.—William King of Scotland dying, was succeeded by his son Alexander II. a youth not more than 15 years of age. The Barons of Northumberland had recourse to him for protection, and thereupon paid their homage at Felton. This incensed King John so much, that he prepared for a northern expedition. In the Year 1215, King Alexander came before Norham with a mighty army, and after an investiture for 40 days, was obliged to raise the siege. This circumstance is thus mentioned in Leland's Collectanea, v. 1. p. 535. ‘Alexander King of Scottes, sun to King William, did entre ynto England, and did much despite to King John; he assegid the castel of Mitteford and Norham, and toke homages.’

In 1258, King Henry III. had projected a scheme for surprizing Alexander III. King of Scotland, and rescuing him from the government of those who had taken him from those ministers approved of by King Henry. The government of the castles of Norham and Wark was conferred on Robert de Neville, Lord of Raby, whose commission from King Henry was ‘to provide himself with horse and arms, to march with the forces designed to rescue Alexander from the restraint in which his rebellious subjects held him’ [*] But this project was rendered abortive by the assembling of a great army of Scots in the forest of Jedburgh, and a treaty ensued. This Robert de Neville was the second Lord of Raby, of the name of Neville, being the grandson of Robert Fitz Maldred, Lord of Raby, who was the lineal male heir of Uchtred Earl of Northumberland.

A convention was appointed to be held at Norham, on the 10th day of May 1290, previous to King Edward the First's entering upon a decision of the claims made by the several competitors for succession to the Crown of Scotland, on the death of Margaret of Norway, the infant heiress. The assembly that day is said to be held in the parish church of Norham, when were present the King, and many Nobles and Prelates of both nations. The King declared, that the purpose of his coming was in quality of Superior and direct Lord of Scotland, to maintain the tranquillity of that kingdom, and to do impartial justice to those who laid claim to the Crown, but previous thereto he demanded their recognition of such his pretended sovereignty; and it is alledged, that his claim was historically deduced with great skill and artifice by Anthony Beck, then Bishop of Durham: after which three weeks were given for the Scotch Nobles to deliberate on the demand. On the 2d day of June then next, eight competitors, with several of the Prelates, Nobles, and Community of Scotland appeared, and held their council on this important matter, ‘Congregatis ex opposito castri de Norham, ex alia parte fluminis Tweedae in quadam arda viridi,’ [*] when all the competitors made the required recognition, and absolute submission of their several claims and pretended right to the Scottish Crown, to his decision.

On the same day the competitors, together with the whole company, came to the King in the church of Norham, and several subsequent meetings were held there for settling preliminaries: and the second day of the succeeding August was appointed for hearing all claimants at Berwick.

After judgment was given at Berwick in favour of John Baliol, on the 20th of November 1292, he swore fealty to King Edward in the castle of Norham, in the presence of many Nobles of both nations; and a commission was thence issued for enthroning him at Scone.

In the following reign, in the year 1318, it was besieged by the Scots, Sir Thomas Grey being then Governor,[*] by whose brave defence, and the timely aid of the Lords Percy and Nevil, it was preserved from the hands of the enemy. In order to carry on the siege, the Scots raised two forts against the castle; one at the church of Norham, and the other at Upsitlington. On a succeeding siege in 1322, the Scots became masters of this fortress, but held it not long, for King Edward retook it after an assault of ten days, he having brought before it a very powerful army.

In 1326, on the night of King Edward the Third's coronation, the Scots made an assault on the castle: Robert Manners then Governor had received previous intimation of the intended attempt, and permitting 16 of the assailants to scale the outward wall, put them to the sword.

In 1327, soon after their march from Weardale, in the county of Durham, the Scots laid siege to Norham, and took it by storm. Three Knights of great military fame in the Scotch army fell in the attack, William de Montalt or Montraud,[*] John de Clapham, and Mailis de Dobery. Another party made an unsuccessful attempt on the castle of Alnwick, near the same time. In 1355, a party of Scots under the command of Sir William Ramsay burnt and plundered the town of Norham and adjacent country.

In the 13th year of the reign of King Henry VII. the Scots led by King James in person besieged Norham Castle, which had been put into good repair by Fox, then Bishop of Durham, and was well garrisoned. The Bishop came in person to its succour, the besieged making a valiant defence. Many of the outworks were destroyed. Some authors assert the Scotch did not raise the siege till the Earl of Surry with an army of 20,000 men came to its support, and obliged the assailants to retire. In the 5th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. the castle was assaulted by the Scots, previous to the battle of Flodden Field,
[†]
and part of the outworks were destroyed.

In order to entertain a just idea of those conflicts on the borders, I will extract from the letters of the Commanders in the year 1544, a short state of their progress and proceedings in the Mers and Tiviotdale. The progress of the Berwick garrison was as far as Dunglass: the garrisons of Wark and Cornhill proceeded as far as the hills of Lammar Muir, and over the dry March of Tiviotdale. The chief Commanders were Sir George Bowes, Sir Brian Laiton, and Sir Ralph Eure. On the 17th of July, Bowes, Laiton, and others burnt Dunse, the chief town of the Mers; and John Carr's son, with the garrison of Cornhill Castle, entered Greenlaw, and carried off a booty of cattle, sheep, and horses. On the 19th of the same month, the men of Tyndale and Ridsdale, returning from a road into Tiviotdale, fought with the Laird of Ferniherst and his followers, and took him and his son John prisoners. On the 24th of July, the garrison of Wark, the Captain of Norham, and Henry Eure burnt Long Edmin, made many prisoners, and took a bastell-house strongly kept, and got a booty of 40 nolt and 30 horses, besides those on which their prisoners were mounted, each on a horse. On the 2d of August, the Captain of Norham burnt the town of Home, near to the castle gates, with the surrounding steads. Sept. 6th, Sir Ralph Eure burnt Eikford church and town, the barnekin of Ormeston, and won by assault the Moss Tower, burnt it, and slew 34 people within it: he likewise burnt several other places in that neighbourhood, and carried off more than 500 nolt and 600 sheep, with 100 horse load of spoils got in the tower. Sept. 27th, the men of the east and part of the middle March, won the church of Eccles by assault, and slew 80 men in the abbey and town, most part gentlemen of head sirnames; they also took 30 prisoners, and burnt the abbey and town. On the same day the garrison of Berwick brought out of the east end of the Mers 600 bolls of corn, and took prisoner Patrick Home, brother's son to the Laird of Aiton. November 5th, the men of the middle March burnt Lussedden, in which were 16 strong bastell houses, slew several of the owners, and burnt much corn. November 9th, Sir George Bowes and Sir Brian Laiton burnt Dryburgh, a market town, all except the church, with much corn, and brought away 100 nolt, 60 nags, 100 sheep, and much other booty, spoilage, and insight gear.

The whole number of towns, towers, steads, barnekins, parish churches, and bastell houses seized, destroyed, and burnt, in all the border country, was 192, Scots slain 400, prisoners taken 816, nolt 10,386, sheep 12,492, nags and geldings 1296, gayts 200, bolls of corn 850, insight gear an indefinite quantity.

In Hertford's expedition, places burnt, rased, and cast down 129; among these Dunse, the abbey and town of Eccles, the tower and barnekin of Nisbit, the towers of Dunse, Redbraes, Pollard, and Mertington, with the castles of Wedderburn and Blackadder were rased. On the river Tweed, from Kelso upwards, 33 places were destroyed; among which were the abbey of Kelso, the abbey and town of Dryburgh, the abbey of Mailross, and the towers of Dawcove and Stotherick: on the river Tiviot 36; among which were the friars near Kelso, the towers of Roxburgh and Ormeston, and the two towers of Boon Jedburgh: 12 places on the Rowle Water: 13 on Jed; among which, the abbey, friars, and town of Jedburgh: 45 places on the Kayle, and between it and the Tweed: 19 on Bowbent (alias Bowmont). The sum total of the places destroyed or laid waste in the whole inroad was 287; of which, monasteries and friar houses 7, castle towers and piles 16, market towns 5, villages 243, mills 13, spitals and hospitals 3.

In the 22d year of the reign of King Henry VIII. Norham was surprized by the Scotch, and soon after recovered by one Franklin, Archdeacon of Durham.

In the year 1551, a treaty was signed in the church of Norham: the Scotch Commissioners were Robert Bishop of Orkney, Robert Lord Maxwell, Thomas Master of Erskine, and Louis de St. Gelais, Lord of Lansac, Knt. those for England were Thomas Bishop of Norwich, Robert Bowes, Leonard Beckwith, and Thomas Chaloner, Knt.

In 1552, the castle of Norham, which from the time of Bishop Flambert had appertained to the See of Durham, appears from Lord Wharton's proposals for the better protection of the Marches, to be vested in the Crown. The deprivation of Cuthbert Tunstal happened on the 11th of October in this year, soon after the accession of Queen Mary, before which time we have no public record to shew how Norham might come into the power of the Crown. The infamous law for the dissolution of the bishopric, is the first act of any notoriety I have been able to discover which could effect the matter: and notwithstanding that law, it appears from several records that in the reign of Queen Mary the castle was repaired and again fortified by Bishop Tunstal; and that some very short time before his death, in the year 1559, he held a treaty there with the Scotch, when were present, Thomas Earl of Northumberland, William Lord Dacres of Gilsland, and Croft, Commander of the fortress of Berwick, on the behalf of the English; and for Scotland, the Earls of Morton and Hume, with the Dean of Glasgow.

Camden describes Norham Castle in his time ‘to be situate on the top of a high steep rock, and fortified with a trench: the outward wall, of great circuit, was guarded by several turrets in a canton towards the river, in which another wall much stronger encircled the keep or tower of great height.’ This description gives a perfect idea of its figure, after the repairs made by Bishop Tunstal. Towards the river the ruins now hang upon the very verge of the precipice, part of which, by the washing of the torrent, has given way, and carried with it the superstructure on that side; which with the decay incident to the length of time, has occasioned a wide breach in the outward wall spoken of by Camden: the turrets, as he is pleased to stile them, appear to be no other than demi-bastions, a mode of fortification peculiar to the age in which this erection arose; a perfect model of which, still in good preservation, appears at Hartlepool, in the county of Durham, of near the same date, being the palatinate port of the bishopric.

The wall of the castle of Norham, which extended from the water on the south side, was guarded with a gate-way and tower, having square turrets on each side, and thence ascending the steeps stretching eastward, was also defended by another gate-way of superior dimensions, fortified by two heavy round flanking towers, the remains of which are still considerable. This appears to be the chief entrance, and fronts a plain of considerable extent: it was defended by a draw bridge over a very wide moat, which began here, and was extended round the land side of the castle, enclosing a spacious area or ballium, with a very strong wall garnished with demi-bastions at intervals. Within the area of this outward wall are the remains of a chapel and several other structures. To defend the keep or main tower, a very strong wall encloses a narrow area or interior ballium, which is entered by a gateway, guarded on each hand by square towers. The keep is a very large heavy square building, vaulted underneath, like most structures of this kind. Part of the vaults and some of the prisons remain entire, but all the interior parts of the tower above, are laid open and demolished. The remains of an exploratory turret are seen on one corner of the keep: it may be presumed it was originally uniform, bearing a turret at each corner. The height of the great tower is about 70 feet, containing four stories or ranges of apartments. The whole building is constructed of red free-stone, of a soft nature, and subject to decay. There is not the least ornament about it, and the whole aspect is gloomy to the greatest degree: it wears the countenance of the times of King Stephen, without any embellishments of the age in which Bishop Tunstal lived.

This has been a very formidable fortress, inaccessible from the Tweed; and before the use of fire arms, from its present remains appears impregnable, if fully garrisoned, and duly provided with stores against a siege. When the outward walls were in repair, and filled with troops; when the oillets and other devices for the garrison's fighting and defence were properly supplied with experienced archers, and the bastions were kept by men of valour, it seems almost incredible that this place could ever be taken by assault. But when there was a regular blockade, and time for mining and raising engines, the defence then consisting of different manoeuvres, would consequently harrass the most powerful garrison; frequent sallies becoming necessary, by which the troops are exposed to the superior numbers of besiegers: incessant watchings and severe duties wear down the greatest fortitude of soul, and scarcity of provision with perpetual anxiety subdue the most vigorous heart. Such are the calamities of a siege, and such were many times experienced here: but of all the distresses the valiant know, none equals that which proceeds from a defection in his partizans, and the corruption of his colleagues. So prone is the human heart to evil, that we find in the history of every state and people, such horrid tales of treachery, that the stain upon the human character leaves so disagreeable a sentiment upon the mind of the reader, as with its bitterness and gall almost overwhelms the pleasures we receive by the images of virtue. I forbear to search into this part of the history of Norham.[*]

The castle with its demesnes, consisting of 1030 acres, are now the property of Robert Fenwick of Lemington, Esq [†] held by payment of a castle rent to Sir Thomas Haggerston, Lord of the Manor of Norham. Richard Barnes, Bishop of Durham, severed this demesne and castle from his See, by grant to Queen Elizabeth, by whom it was given to the Earl of Monmouth, and passed from him by sale.[‡]

All the banks of the Tweed afford the same cultivated scenes, down to Berwick, almost naked of wood, and consisting of wide enclosures. On the environs of Berwick we first lost sight of the Helton Mountains adjoining to Mailross.

The village of

Notes

*
Hathuredo post novem annos mortuo successit Egredus 22o. anno Eamedi Regis In Norham Eclesiam construxit in honore Sancti Petri Apostoli, S. Cuthberti, nec non Ceolwulphi Regis & Monachi cujus corpus eo transtulit,
Note: Geneforde non longe à Tese Flu. i• nac parochia est castellum Barnardi. Wigelif unde Wigelif haereticus originem duxit.
ipsamque villam, & Gedeworde ecclesiamque quam construxerat in Geneforde, & quicquid ad eam perteriita flu. Teisa usque ad Weor flu. S. Cuthberto contulit Ileclif Wigclif, sed et Billingham in Hertrunesse quarum ipse conditor fuerat.

Lel. Coll. v. 1. p. 328.

↵

†

In the northern counties these holy feasts are not yet abolished, and in the county of Durham many are yet celebrated: they were originally feasts of dedication, in commemoration of the consecration of the church, in imitation of Solomon's great convocation at the consecrating the Temple of Jerusalem: the religious tenor is totally forgotten, and the Sabbath is made a day of every dissipation and vice which it is possible to conceive could crowd upon a villager's manners and rural life. The manner of holding these festivals in former times, was under tents or booths erected in the Church-yard, where all kinds of diversions were introduced. Interludes were there performed, being a species of theatrical performance consisting of a rehearsal of some passage in holy writ personated by actors: this kind of exhibition is spoken of by travellers who have visited Jerusalem, where the religious even presume to exhibit the crucifixion and ascension, with all their tremendous circumstances. On these celebrations in this country, great feasts were displayed, and vast abundance of meat and drink. From whence we adopted the custom is not ascertained, but it seems probable, and by some authors it is insisted upon, that we had it in very great antiquity, and derived it from the Easterns. All their Holydays were distinguished by great feasts; the celebrations we read of, were performed with all the pomp of procession, approaching the temple of the Gods with offerings in great magnificence and splendour; where the cattle were consecrated, and then delivered over to feast the multitude. The feast of the translation of St. Cuthbert's body is celebrated every year with great reverence, by the inhabitants of Norham, on the first Sunday and Monday after the 4th day of September, O. S.

St. Gregory in his letter to King Ethelbert in the year 601, had enjoined him to destroy the heathen idols, their temples, and high places, that their influence might be taken away from the people, and their memory effaced. But on reviewing the estate of the inhabitants, their superstitions, and settled and habitual customs, he thought it expedient not to pursue measures so violent and alarming at first; and therefore in a letter wrote to Mellitus, an Abbot, who was upon his voyage to Britain, he orders him upon his arrival to inform Augustine, that on more mature deliberation, he had resolved that the Pagan temples in Britain should not be pulled down, it being sufficient that the Idols were taken away: therefore the places of the heathen worship were to be purified with a libation of holy water, altars were to be erected therein, and relics placed under them; for if these temples were well built, it was fit the property of them should be altered, the worship of Devils abolished, and the solemnities changed to the service of the true God: that when the natives perceived those religious structures remained standing, they might keep to the place without retaining the error; and be less shocked upon their first entrance upon christianity, by frequenting the temples they had been used to esteem. And his injunctions were, that since it had been their custom to sacrifice oxen to the Devils they adored, this usage ought to be refined on, and altered to an innocent practice. He recommends, that on the anniversary of the Saints whose relics are lodged there, or upon the return of the day on which the church was consecrated, the people should erect booths about the churches lately rescued from idolatry, provide a feast, and keep a christian holiday: not sacrificing their cattle to evil spirits, but killing them for their own refreshment, and praising God for the blessing: and thus by allowing them sensual gratifications, they may relish christianity the better, and be raised by degrees to the more noble pleasures of the mind; for unpolished and ignorant people are not to be withdrawn from their habits all at once. God when he discovered himself to the Israelites in Egypt, did not forbid them the customary rites of sacrificing, but purified the service to himself. Greg. Epist. Lib. 9. Epist. 71. Thus the Pope thought it expedient to bend to the prejudices of the new converts, as a more likely expedient to reconcile them to christianity than rigid measures, the abolition of their old customs, and forcing the people from one extreme to another.

↵

*
Cells were houses appertaining to great abbeys or monasteries: sometimes they were far distant from the mother church, as that of Wyndham, in Norfolk, which was annexed to St. Albans. To these cells the Monks of the abbies sent colonies, when they were too much crowded, or when afraid of an infectious disease at home.
↵

*
Dugdale's Bar. v. 1. p. 54.
↵

†
Ranulphus quoque Dunelmensis episcopus castellum incepit apud Norham super Ripam Twedae. Lel. Coll. v. 2. p. 203.
↵

*
Dugdale's Peerage, vol. 1.
↵

*
Rot Turri.
↵

*

In Leland's Collectanea, we have the following curious particulars of this siege.

‘The Scottes came yn to the Marches of England, and destroyed the castels of Werk and Herbotel, and overran much of Northumberland Marches.’

"At this tyme Thomas Gray and his friends defended Norham from the Scottes."

‘It were a wonderful processe to declare what mischefes cam by hungre and asseges by the space of XI yeres in Northumberland; for the Scottes became so proude after they got Berwick, that they nothing esteemed the Englishmen.’

‘About this tyme there was a great feste made yn Lincolnshir, to which came many Gentlemen and Ladies; and among them a Lady brought a heanlme for a man of were, with a very rich creste of gold, to William Marmion, Knight, with a letter of commandment of her Lady, that he should go into the daungerest place in England, and there to let the heanlme to be seene and knowne as famous. So he went to Norham; whither within 4 dayes of cumming, cam Philip Moubray, Guardian of Berwicke, having in his band 140 men of armes, the very flour of men of the Scottish Marches.’

‘Thomas Gray, Capitayne of Norham, seying this, brought his garison afore the bariers of the castel, behynde whom cam William richly arrayed, as al glittering in gold, and wearing the heanlme as his Lady's present.’

‘Then sayd Thomas Gray to Marmion, "Sir Knight, ye be cum hither to fame your heanlme, mount upon your horse, and ryde like a valiant man, to yown even here at hand, and I forsake God, if I rescue not thy body deade or alyve, or I myself will dye for it."’

‘Whereupon he took his cursore, and rode among the throng of enemyes; the which layd sore stripes on hym and pulled hym at the last oute of his sadel to the ground.’

‘Then Thomas Gray with all the hole garrison lette pryk yn among the Scottes, and so wondid them and their horses, that they were overthrowen, and Marmion sore beten was horsid agayn, and with Gray persewid the Scottes in chase. There were taken 50 horses of price; and the women of Norham brought them to the foote men to follow the chase.’

‘Sir Thomas Gray hymselfe killed one Cryne, a Fleming, an Admiral, and great robber on the se, and yn hy favor with Robert Bruse: the residew that escaped were chased to the Nunnes of Berwick.’

‘Adam de Gordon, a Baron of Scotland, came with 160 men to dryve away the cattel pasturing by Norham, but the young men of the country thereaboute encountered with them, whom Thomas Gray seing to stand in jepardy, wente oute with only 60 men, and killed most parte of the Scottes and their horses.’

‘The same Thomas was twise assiged yn the castel of Norham by the Scottes, one tyme by the space almost of an yere, the other 7 monithes: his enuemies made fortresses before the castel, one at Upsedlington, another yn the church of Norham. This castel was twise vitailied by the Lord Percy and Neville, that he came with very noble men, and rich and great socorers of the Marches of England.’

‘The utter ward of Norham Castel was ons taken in Thomas Gray's tyme, on the vigill of St. Catherine, but they kept yt by 3 days, for theyr purpose in myning fayllied them.’

↵

*
Robert Bruce King of Scotland had assegid the castel of Norham, wher Robert Maners was Capytane; which with his garrison issuid oute one day, and discomfited the Scottes, killing William Monhaud, a Baron of Scotland.—Lel. Coll. v. 1. p. 550.
↵

†

We have this mentioned in the poem of the battle of Flodden, part 2, fit. 3, line 147.

It was the King's express command,

To waste with cruel sword and flame;

A field of blood he made the land,

'Till he to Norham Castle came.

148.

Which soon with siege he did beset,

And trenches digged without delay;

With bombard shot the walls he beat,

And to assault it did essay.

149.

The Captain great, with courage stout,

His fortress fiercely did defend;

But for a while he lashed out,

'Till his ordnance did spend.

150.

His powder he did profusely waste,

His arrows he hailed out every hour;

So that he wanted at the last,

And at the last had none to pour.

151.

But yet five days he did defend,

Though with assaults they him assail'd;

Though all their strength they did extend,

Yet all their power had not prevailed.

152.

Had not there been a traiterous thief,

Who came King James's face before;

That in that hold had got relief,

The space of thirty years and more.

* * * * * * *

* * * * * * *

156.

O King! quoth he, now quit this place,

And down to yonder vallies draw;

The walls then shall you rend and raze,

Your batteries will bring them low.

157.

Which as he said, so did the King,

And against the walls his ordnance bent;

It was a wretched dismal thing,

To see how soon the walls were rent.

158.

Which made the Captain sore afraid,

Beholding the walls, how they reeled;

His weapons all then down he laid,

And to King James did humbly yield.

* * * * * *

160.

So when the Scots the walls had won,

And rifled every nook and place;

The traitor came to the King anon,

But for reward, met with disgrace.

* * * * * *

165.

Therefore for this thy traiterous trick,

Thou shall be tried in a trice;

Hangman, therefore, quoth he, be quick,

The groom shall have no better place.

The Battle of Flodden.

The King, by the advice of this traitor, descended from Lady Kink-bank into the flat ground near the Tweed, now called the Gin Haugh, whence with his cannon he threw down the north east corner of the castle wall, a large fragment of which now lies by the side of the river. Bishop Tunital, in Queen Elizabeth's time, rebuilt the wall: this is now very distinguishable from the old work. There is a field near the castle, in which this traitor was hanged, now called Hangman's Land. This fact is not mentioned by the Historians. By the account of it in the poem, we shall more readily understand the following epigram of Sir Thomas More, Lord High Chancellor in the time of King Henry VIII.

In Regem Scotiae, qui arcem Norhamam proditam sibi, tamen oppugnavit, dissimulans proditam esse.

Scote quid oppugnas Norhamam viribus arcem

Ante tibi falsa proditione datam?

Artibus ergo malis captâ fuit arce voluptas

Magna tibi forsan, sed brevis illa fuit.

Teque tuisque malâ, meritâ sed morte peremptis,

Arx intra est paucos, capta, recepta, dies

Proditor inque tuo peteret cum praemia regno

Mors sceleri est merces reddita digna suo

Proditor ut pereat pereat cui proditor hostis

Invicta in satis arx habet ista suis.

I take this to be the meaning of the two last verses, which are the most difficult:—There is a tradition here, that the King was told where the castle wall was weakest, by a letter fixed to an arrow shot over the Tweed into his camp.

Lamb's Notes to the Poem of the Battle of Flodden.

↵

*

A fishery in Tweed, near the castle, called Hallywell, for one night and one day, adjudged, by Commissioners to settle claims on the borders, 1553, to be the inheritance of Lord Hume.

A mile below Norham the Tweed forms an island of 14 acres, near a place called St. Thomas's Den.

A little to the west, a lofty terrace on the banks, where the Tweed forms a serpentine canal. The seat of James Ker, Esq of Ker's-field, on the other side.

Further down the river is the pedestal of a cross, with some of its fragments; and about 200 yards further, in a direct line, another with steps round it, a place of sepulchre or barrow. Crosses were erected by the road side leading from Tilmouth chapel to Norham.

Wallis.

↵

†
In right of his wife, one of the daughters and coheirs of William Ord, Esq of Sandy Bank.
↵

‡
George Charleton, born at Norham, bred in Oxford, was one of the four Divines sent by King James to the Synod of Dort. He was Bishop of Landaff, afterwards of Chichester; a man of good affections, solid judgment, and clear invention. He wrote, amongst others, two Treatises called ‘A thankful Remembrance of God's Mercy, and a Confutation of Judicial Astrology.’ When young he was grave in his manners, so when old he was youthful in his parts, even to his death, which happened in the 1st of King Charles.
↵

TWEEDMOUTH,

situate at the south end of Berwick bridge, is noted for the assembly of Barons and others, in the 4th year of the reign of King Edward I. An ancient hospital, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, stood here.

The access to

BERWICK,

is by a fine stone bridge of 16 arches, built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. A bridge of wood was carried away by the floods in the reign of King John, and was restored by William King of Scotland. In Leland's Collectanea, this event is thus mentioned: ‘The bridge of Berwike brake aboute this tyme with great force of water, bycause the arches of it were to low, and after the making of it, as it was then, it durid scars IX yeres.’ [*] ‘AD. 1198, hoc tempore ponte de Berwic inundatione asportata, Philippus episcopus prohibuit ne pontem reaedificarent nam altera pars ripae terra erat Dunelmensis episcopi.’ [†] ‘Tandem tamen pons refectus rogante Gul. de Stoteville.’ [‡]

The old castle, of which little remains but scattered fragments, and confused heaps of foundations, stood to the north-west of the present town: much of its strength seems to have consisted in the elevation and mount on which it was erected. The present heaps and lines of ruins merit no description; their extent and situation remain to point out the ancient strength of this important fortress, now mouldering under the wrath of Time, and prostrate with the earth.

Monsieur Jorvin wrote a description of England and Scotland, published at Paris, A. D. 1672, which the editor of the Antiquarian Repertory thought worth inserting in that work: the account given of Berwick, and the adjoining country, contains several particulars which claim a place here.

‘Barrwick is the first town by which I re-entered England, and being a frontier to England, has been fortified in different manners: there is in it at present a large garrison, as in a place of importance to this kingdom. It is bounded by the river Tweed, which empties itself into the sea, and has a great reflux, capable of bringing up large vessels, was it not prevented by sands at the entrance into its port. I arrived here about ten of the clock on a Sunday; the gates were then shut during church time, but were opened at eleven, as is the custom in all fortified places. Here is an upper and a lower town, which are both on the side of a hill, that slopes towards the river. On its top there is a ruined and abandoned castle, although its situation makes it appear impregnable: it is environed on one side by the ditch of the town, on the other side by one of the same breadth, flanked by many round towers and thick walls, which enclose a large palace, in the middle of which rises a lofty keep or donjon, capable of a long resistance, and commanding all the environs of the town. ’

‘The high town encloses within its walls and ditches those of the lower, from which it is only separated by a ditch filled with water. In the upper town the streets are straight and handsome, but there are not many rich inhabitants, they rather preferring the lower town, in which there are many great palaces, similar to that which has been built near the great church, and in all the open areas are great fountains, and in one of them, the guard house and public parade, before the town hall or sessions house, over which is the clock tower of the town; so that by walking over Barwick, I discovered it to be one of the greatest and most beautiful towns in England. ’

‘The greatest part of the streets in the lower town, are either up or down hill, but they are filled with many rich Merchants, on account of the convenience and vicinity of its port, bordered by a large quay, along which the ships are ranged. There is not a stone bridge in all England, longer or better built than that of Barwick, which has 16 large and wonderfully well wrought arches; it is considered as one of the most remarkable curiosities of the kingdom. I passed over it in leaving the place, adjoining to it is a large suburb, from whence the country is covered with heath and briars to Ashton, where there is a castle; Bowklin, where the sea appears on the left, and a small island not far off, which forms a pretty good harbour, near a village, having a castle. All this sea coast is covered with sand banks, and the interior country to Belford an entire desert, as it is far above 20 miles round about; being only fitted for feeding cattle, occasioned by divers rivulets, which run through meadow, where great herds of all sorts of cattle may be seen feeding.’

The town of Berwick lays on the inclination of an easy slope, towards the river; most of the buildings are ancient, and make but a mean appearance; the streets are narrow, except that only in which the town house is placed. The fortifications are modern, and said to be excellent, being constructed agreeable to the modes adopted since the use of cannon. In the year 1560, these new works were begun, by which the ancient fortification was greatly reduced; for this purpose many houses were taken down, and a tower which stood in a street called Hide hill: the ancient chief fortress or castle, which adjoined to the south-west corner of the old town wall, was left at the distance of several hundred yards from the modern works. Camden speaking of Berwick, says it is "Munitissimum totius Brittaniae oppidum." The manner of fortifying with bastions was a French device, begun in the time of Francis I. and Charles V. or at the soonest of Louis XII.—The Lord Grey of Wilton was the first that bore the title of Governor of Berwick in commission. There are excellent barracks for the garrison, the building plain and neat, consisting of a center and two wings. The public walk is on the rampier, where the gaity of the inhabitants is chiefly displayed, and to which the soldiery contribute greatly. The church is a neat plain structure, built in the time of Cromwell, and consequently without a steeple,[*] he forming much of his religious manners on affected simplicity and a mask of meekness.[†] A Lectureship was founded here by the Mercers Company in London, who also founded another at Hexham. For the support of the Lecturers, they purchased tithes, according to the will of Richard Fishborn, Esq dated March 30, 1625, wherein he left them the sum of 2800l. The tower of the town house, which is a spacious handsome building, contains a good set of bells. The country north of Berwick is open and little cultivated, and within a few miles rises in lofty and barren hills. The town stands on a point of land exposed to the sea on the east and north-east, and to a strong channel of air from the west, which follows the course of the river, so that consequently the situation is very cold.

Berwick was for ages a scene of war and bloodshed; every step the traveller takes upon its confines, or in its boundary, is imprinted on earth stained with human gore:[*] happily those intestine miseries are swept away from the face of the land, and the strength of these walls is opposed only to the hostility of strangers. When this place first arose to importance, is not known: whether it was of any considerable strength during the conflicts between the Britons with their Roman allies, and the northern nations, is not easy to determine: Camden with other Antiquarians have not offered any thing but conjecture.[*] Some authors alledge it was known to Ptolomy the Geographer, who wrote in the time of Antoninus, by the name of Tuesis; but the situation described by him, doth not correspond with that of the present town.

According to Hector Boethius, Berwick existed as a place of strength in the days of Osbert the Northumbrian King. It is reasonable to conjecture, when Tweed became the boundary between Scotland and England, that Berwick would arise as a barrier town, be fortified, and have an armed garrison. In the account given of the Danish invasion under Hubba, about the year 867, Berwick is mentioned as the landing place of the invaders. Whilst the Saxons possessed the country north of Tweed, Berwick was not likely to have risen to any great importance, being so near the royal seat of Bamburgh, except it should have had a fortress, as a safeguard to the episcopal seat of Lindisfarn.

The same author relates, that King Donald having defeated the army of Osbert near the river Jedd, marched down the Tweed to Berwick, which the Saxons then had in possession, and which they abandoned on the news of their Sovereign's overthrow: Donald seized three Saxon vessels in the Bay, with great riches on board; upon which event he and his followers gave themselves up to riot and revelling: of this the Saxons took advantage, and made an unexpected assault on the town in the night, when many of the Scots were slain, and their King was taken prisoner. He also tells us, that King Gregory the Great took Berwick, then possessed by the Danes, and put the garrison to the sword: after which the Scotch Monarch spent his winter there.

Berwick continued for many ages part of the dominions of Scotland, and was one of the four original Scotch burghs.
[*]

Edgar King of Scotland gave it to the See of Durham, according to Hollingshead, in honour of St. Cuthbert, under whose banner he had obtained an important victory. This donation was made about the year 1097. Ralph Flambert, after a vacancy in the See for three years, from the death of William de Caralepho, was consecrated Bishop in 1099; he disregarding the great gift of Edgar to the church, made an irruption into his territories; on which Edgar, provoked at his ingratitude, reassumed the town of Berwick, with its valuable appendages.

In the reign of King Henry II. William King of Scotland surrendered Berwick to the Crown of England, as a pledge for the payment of his ransom: and it is said that King Henry built a castle there,[*] after William's failure in his stipulated payment. But in the time of King Richard I. the ransom money being paid, which was no less than 100,000l. Berwick was restored to the Scotch.

King John, in resentment of the homage paid by the Barons of Northumberland to Alexander King of Scotland, laid waste the whole county, and took Berwick by storm.[†] King John is charged with committing the most savage barbarities on this occasion, having, as it is said in the Chronicle of Mailross, Jews with him, on purpose to devise tortures. In order to extort from the inhabitants a discovery of their money and effects, he caused to be hung up men and women by the joints of their hands and feet, and inflicted on them various other bodily pains. His troops burnt the town of Berwick, the King disgracing royalty, by setting fire, with his own hands, to the house in which he had lodged: he also permitted the adjoining monastery of Coldingham to be plundered.

Alexander King of Scotland, still remaining under sentence of excommunication, for his adherence to Louis, who had been invited to accept the Crown of England by King John's dissident Barons, after peace was made with King Henry III. and on Alexander's acceding thereto, the Pope's Legate gave authority to the Archbishop of York and Bishop of Durham to give him absolution; for which purpose they met the King at Berwick. This event happened in the year 1217.

In the year 1235, Gilbert Earl of Pembroke, Earl Marshal of England, on his marriage with Marjory, sister of Alexander II. King of Scotland, came to Berwick to receive his bride, and celebrate his nuptials.

In the year 1266, Edmond the younger son of King Henry III. after being invested with the dukedom of Lancaster, and the forfeited honours and estates of the Earl of Leicester, paid a visit to the King and Queen of Scotland at Berwick, where the King with a numerous assembly of his Nobles celebrated the royal birth-day.

The great assembly of the states of England and Scotland was held here, on the 2d day of August 1291, for determining the claims of the several competitors for the Crown of Scotland, in pursuance of the adjournment from Norham, in the preceding June. King Edward I. received the Prelates and Nobles of both kingdoms in the chapel of the castle: after which the Bishops, Prelates, Earls, Barons, Knights, and people of both nations, were convened in the castle of Berwick, and the Delegates were commanded to assemble for receiving the claims, in the deserted church of the Dominicans, adjacent to the castle. An adjournment was made to the same place in the month of June in the following year, where the King again appeared in person, and difficulties still remaining unsolved, a further adjournment was made to the ensuing October, at which time his Majesty, attended as before, again came to Berwick. Several intermediate days being given for solving the incident questions which arose on the claims, the 17th day of November, A. D. 1292, was appointed for giving judgment, in the hall of the castle, when John Baliol was pronounced successor to the Crown. The seal used by those who had governed Scotland during the interregnum, was broken in four parts, and delivered up to King Edward to be deposited in his treasury, as a monument and evidence of the sovereignty and direct dominion of that Monarch over Scotland.

In Leland's Collectanea it is noted, that in the year 1295, ‘John King of Scottes, contrary to his feith and aliegeaunce, rebellid agayne King Edward, and cam into England, and brent and slew. Wherapon King Edward with a great host went to Newcastelle apon Tyne, and passid the water of Twede and besiegid Berwick, and gat it: and also he gat the castelle of Dunbar, and ther were slayne XXV M and VII C Scottes. And so proceeded forth, and gat the castelle of Rokesburgh, and the castelles of Shremborough, Stryvelin, and Gedworth, and his people foured all the lande.’ [*] After these several operations the King returned to Berwick, where he resided some time, to direct several new works for the better fortification of the place; among which was a ditch over the neck of land from Tweed to the sea, in breadth 80 feet, and 40 feet in depth.[†]

The accounts given of these successes of King Edward are various, and authors differ much in regard to the slaughter which attended them. The King being encamped near the nunnery, offered terms of peace, which after being demurred upon for two days, were rejected by the garrison. On the next day, being Thursday after Easter, A. D. 1296, the English army was drawn up, on an extensive plain, near the nunnery, at the eastern foot of Hallydown Hill, in full view of Berwick Castle and the high parts of the town. There the King conferred the honour of Knighthood on Henry Percy and others, as was usual in those times, on the like occasions. The navy perceiving the display of banners from the mouth of the Tweed, where the fleet then lay, and presuming the attack was beginning, anxious to win part of the laurels of the day, pushed over the bar, and gained the haven; by which three ships were lost, having stranded, where they were burnt by the townsmen: the rest were scarce able to escape in the ebb tide. King Edward desirous to save his fleet, ordered an immediate attack, whilst the chief part of the garrison was employed in defending the town nearest the haven. He is charged by Fordun and other Scottish writers with using a delusive artifice, in detaching a body of men, under the cover of some rising grounds, to gain an approach on another quarter, and by displaying Scotch colours, induce the garrison to permit their advancing near the fortifications, under a presumption that they were a reinforcement for the town. The English authors take no notice of this stratagem. It appears from the best authorities, that the fortifications of this place, at that time, consisted chiefly of a ditch, and a rampier of earth with a barricado of timber: through these the English army made their entrance with very little difficulty, and the garrison and inhabitants, astonished at the suddenness of the event, and overwhelmed by superior force, were slaughtered without much resistance. The chief opposition that was made, was by 30 Flandrian Merchants, who held out a strong tower, called the Red Hall, till the evening, when fire being set to it, the building was consumed, and all within perished. In the reduction of this tower, the brother of the Earl of Cornwall, a valiant Knight, was slain by a spear's piercing his eye, as he looked up to those who fought above. All the gentlemen and fighting men of Fife are said to have been put to the sword. The castle, commanded by William Douglas, surrendered the same day, and its garrison, consisting of 200 men, were permitted to march out armed, on swearing from thenceforth not to fight against the King or kingdom of England; but their Governor was detained a prisoner. Fordun says the number of slain was 7500; that the streets ran with blood two days, and in such quantities as to make mills go. Boetheus says also the slain were about 7000 in number, and says that mills were actually set a-going with the blood. Matthew Westminster says, that all were slain, without distinction of sex or age, in number 60,000. In the instructions from the Regency and Council of Scotland, to their Procurators at Rome, A. D. 1301, it is said, that after taking Berwick, the King and his army committed the most barbarous cruelties on the inhabitants, who to the number of almost 8000 were slain, without distinction of character, sex, or age. The churches afforded no protection to those who fled thither; after being defiled with the blood of the slain, and spoiled of all their ornaments, the King and his followers made stables of them for the horses of the army.[*] This carnage may be ascribed to a resentment of the cruelties committed the preceding year by the men of Berwick and the fighting men of Fife, in attacking certain English vessels that had entered the port, setting fire to the ships, and putting the several crews to death.

On the 24th day of August, A. D. 1296, the King received the homage [†] of the Scotch Nobility here, in the presence of an English Parliament, summoned for that purpose. In the year succeeding, he established an Exchequer here, on the principles of that at Westminster, for the receipt of the Scotch revenue.

In the year 1297, the English inhabitants being struck with a panic on the approach of Sir William Wallace with his forces, evacuated the place,
[‡]
and fled with their moveables to the southern parts of Northumberland. Cressingham,[*] whom King Edward had made his Treasurer, from his avarice, neglected putting the King's commands in execution, for building a stone wall along the side of the new foss, and applied the King's treasures to his own appropriations; so that Berwick was apparently in so defenceless a state, as not to be esteemed tenable by the garrison against Wallace's troops.

Cressingham was slain at the battle of Sterling Bridge, and was flead by the soldiers, who divided his skin among them as a trophy.

The castle of Berwick was so strong and well maintained, that the Scots were not able to reduce it: the Regency levied a great force, the army consisting of 2000 armed horse, 1200 light horse, and 100,000 foot; on the approach of this formidable armament, the Scots deserted the town, and the faithful garrison in the castle, who had sustained a long blockade, were happily relieved.[†]

The alarm occasioned by Wallace's insurrection, and the invasion with which England was then threatened, brought forth excellent fruits, which still bless this kingdom, and are the felicity of the present age; the ratification of the great charter and charter of the forests, with a most inestimable addition, a grant and concession that no tallage or aid should thenceforth be imposed on the people, without the assent of the Prelates, Nobles, Knights, Burgesses, and other Freemen.

King Edward, in the year 1303, mustered that victorious army here, with which he penetrated the remotest parts of Scotland, and compleated its conquest.

In the year 1305, Wallace having been betrayed into the hands of his enemies, suffered an ignominious execution, and half of his body was ordered to be exposed on Berwick Bridge. In the succeeding year, Neal Bruce, brother of Robert Bruce, was taken in the castle of Kildrummy, with many other persons of great distinction, who were sent prisoners to Berwick, where King Edward ordered them to be tried by Justices sent thither, by whom they were condemned, and sentenced to be hanged, drawn, and quartered. The Countess of Buchan, sister to the Earl of Fife, eloped from John Comyn her husband, and carried in her retinue all his war-horses, with which she repaired to Robert Bruce, at Scone, and in the absence of the Earl her brother, who was then with the King of England, and whose hereditary office it was to place the crown on the heads of the Scotch Monarchs, she assumed that high duty, and put the diadem on the head of Bruce. King Edward senteaced her to be shut up in a wooden cage, in one of the towers of Berwick Castle.[*] From the order set forth by Rymer, it appears, that the Chamberlain of Scotland, or his Lieutenant at Berwick, was to cause this cage to be made of sufficient strength; in which she was to be attended and served by one or two English women of the town of Berwick, and no Scotch man or woman, or any other person, except the servant or servants appointed her, were to be suffered to have access to her. Another author [†] says, that the King declared as she did not strike with the sword, she should not die by it; but ordered her to be shut up in an habitation of wood and iron, shaped like a crown, and to be hung out at Berwick, in the open air, for a spectacle and everlasting reproach, both living and dead, to all that passed. Mary a sister of Bruce, was ordered to be shut up in like manner at the castle of Roxburgh. The Countess of Buchan lived in this confinement six years, when by the royal mandate she was released from her cage, and given in charge to Henry de Beaumont.

In the year 1307, the stores ordered by the King of England to be delivered by the citizens of London at Berwick, for the use of the forces against the Scots, were 20 barrels of honey, 100 barrels of wine, 12,000 lb. weight of iron, 500 lb. of hemp-cord for balistae, 500lb. of hemp, 100 balistae of one foot, 40 of two feet, 20 balistae de turno, 30,000 arrows for balistae of one foot, 12,000 arrows for those of two feet, 2200 feathered arrows of copper for balistae de turno.[*] The measure by which these balistae are here distinguished, relates to the arrows these engines were to throw; as the accepted phrase in regard to cannon, is so many pounders, as the weight of the shot may be they are bored for.

In the year 1310, King Edward II. his Queen, and Nobles, spent their winter at Berwick; the King returning thither from his Scotch expedition. The dearth was so great in Scotland this year, that the people fed on horse-flesh and other carrion.[†] During the King's residence here, he confirmed the election of Richard de Kellow to the See of Durham, on the death of Anthony de Beck.

In 1312, Robert Bruce attempted to surprize Berwick, by a scalade in the night; but after ladders of ropes were fixed, the place was saved by the barking of a dog, which alarmed the garrison, and the assailants were repulsed with considerable loss.

In the year 1314, King Edward II. rendezvoused his army at Berwick, consisting of 40,000 horse (three thousand of which were compleatly armed, horses and men) and 52,000 foot: they were in part lodged within the town, and the rest in tents without the walls. The carriages attending this army were numerous, as no supplies could be drawn from a country desolated by war, and wasted by famine. Malmsbury says, if they had passed in one line, they would have extended sixty leagues in length. Most authors agree, that so fine an army had not in the memory of man marched from England. The army of the Scots consisted of 30,000, advantageously posted, and waiting the approach of the English, on the banks of Bannocks Burn. I seem to be led involuntarily to a relation of this battle; famous, for the establishment of Robert Bruce on the throne of Scotland, in its event.

Sterling Castle had sustained a long siege and blockade, and the Governor was at length obliged to accede to certain articles, under which, if this fortress was not relieved before an appointed day, it was to be surrendered to Bruce: King Edward determined to march to its relief, and with all possible expedition moved his army from Berwick. Robert Bruce, informed of the intention of the English Monarch, resolved to abide the event of a battle, rather than raise the siege. He had viewed the ground, and fixed upon a part near the castle, where he should have only just sufficient room to marshal his troops with advantage, according to their arms. This place was defended on the one hand by inaccessible rocks, and on the other by a morass, having the water of Bannokburn in front. King Edward being informed the country near Sterling was full of morasses, and difficult to be passed, so that his horse could not be of the service he wished, he levied a reinforcement of foot, 4000 from Yorkshire, 2500 from Northumberland, 1500 from Durham, and 2000 from Derby and Nottingham. In the advance the army was divided into ten columns, 10,000 men in each, commanded by leaders of the most distinguished character; the Earls of Gloucester and Hereford led the van, the center was led by the King in person, Sir Giles D'Argentein and Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, Generals under him. The army under these divisions, is said to have covered a large tract of country, and was a sight august and solemn; the whole scene made resplendent, by burnished arms and displayed ensigns.

As the English approached, Bruce led his troops to occupy the chosen ground, on the Saturday before the battle. To strengthen the station, he caused pits to be dug in front, armed with pointed stakes within, covered with hurdles or flakes, and concealed by turfs and rushes. On the morning of Sunday, being Midsummer Eve, Bruce with his Lords and Chieftains attended solemn devotions and mass in the front of the army; and the Priests went through the ranks, exhorting each soldier ‘to exert his powers for the relief of his country, and rather die a martyr in the virtuous cause, than see the English again become tyrannical task-masters, as they had been in the time of King Edward I. of detested memory.’ Such arguments and exhortations served to inflame the Scotch army with enthusiastic ardour. The English were ordered to advance so near Bruce's station; on Sunday evening, that though harrassed with a tedious march, they were obliged to lay under arms all night, for fear of a surprize. This evening was not without several skirmishes and re-encounters, in which the English were worsted: in one of these Robert Bruce engaged and slew Sir Henry Boynton; cleaving his head with a battle ax. A party of 300 horse, under the command of Lord Robert Clifford and Henry Beaumont, attempting to gain the castle, were engaged by a chosen band of Spearmen, led by Earl Murray, and put to the rout: Sir William Dayncourt was slain, and Thomas Gray made prisoner;[*] the Earl of Gloucester was unhorsed, but rescued.[†]

The disposition of the Scotch army on the day of battle was in four divisions: Sir Thomas Randolph commanded the van, Edward Bruce the right wing, and Sir James Douglas the left; Robert Bruce was with the body of reserve or rear. The Scotch were all on foot, that by making the danger and distress of the engagement equal, the ardour of each might by example be exhilerated. The soldiers of the body of reserve, were covered with light coats of mail, which a sword could not penetrate: they carried an ax in the belt, and lances in their hands. Malmsbury describes the Scotch army moving, "as thick as a hedge." The leaders were men of that skill and valour, that they possessed the confidence of the troops. In the English army, the foot, consisting of spearmen and archers, were in the van, the horse were on each flank; and in these positions the armies engaged.

The onset was vigorous and well maintained on both sides. The Earl of Gloucester commanded that part of the line which was attacked by Sir James Douglas's corps, consisting of 7000 Borderers and 3000 Irish Scots or Katerans, vulgarly called Redshanks, a fierce and valiant race. The English, unable to sustain the shock, began to give way, when the Earl, impatient of disgrace and inflamed with ire, accompanied by a chosen band, rushed into the thickest of the foes, where he was beaten from his horse and slain. The covered pits deterred or frustrated his Knights from effecting his rescue. Malmsbury says, with great warmth, (confundat eos Dominos) they were 500 in number, and in the emergency 20 might have effected his relief. Sir Giles D'Argentein, a man much esteemed by Robert Bruce, and of great military fame, one of the Commanders of the Gens d' Armes who guarded the King, advanced to Gloucester's relief, but died in the attempt. Robert de Clifford, Payen de Tiptoft, William Marescal, Edmund Mayley, and several other eminent leaders were equally unfortunate in those parts of the army where they commanded, and were soon numbered with the slain. The English archers, who had so often carried victory with them in former conflicts, were attacked in flank, and put to the rout, by a troop of light cavalry close armed, who were remounted for this critical service, and led by Sir Robert Keith, Marshal of Scotland. The confusion among the archers, and the fall of such eminent leaders, struck the English army with a panic, which was not a little increased by the sight of a large body of men advancing over the summit of a distant eminence, who were no other than the attendants on the carriages and baggage, drawn up in martial array, and displaying pieces of linen on the ends of spears, which at that distance appeared like a crowd of banners. Confusion and uproar soon took place, and the English Monarch was advised to secure his retreat, as Victory was declaring on every hand for Bruce, and the English forces, wearied and fainting, were giving way. The King with great reluctance and shame consented to move the royal standard, the sight of which compleated what the valour of the Scotch phalanx had so gloriously begun: the rout became general, and multitudes fell as well under the sword in the pursuit, as in the waters of Bannockburn and Forth. The effusion of blood was greatly spared, by the avarice of plunder, the rich baggage of the English army affording immense booty to the victors. Of the Scots, only two leaders of note fell, William Vipont and Walter Ross. Seven hundred English Gentlemen were missing after the battle, the greatest part of whom were among the prisoners. Sterling surrendered to the King of Scotland, who ordered the fortifications to be destroyed to their foundations. Redpath, in his Border History, says, ‘The rout of the English was indeed very entire; but neither the number they brought to the field, nor the loss they sustained, appear to have been nigh so great as the Scottish writers represent them.’

King Robert Bruce treated the prisoners with great humanity, and buried the dead with all due decorum. The bodies of the Earl of Gloucester and Lord Robert Clifford, he sent to the King at Berwick, to be interred with the honours due to their rank and military fame. On account of a personal friendship which had formerly subsisted between them, he liberated without ransom his prisoner Lord Ralph de Mounthermer, husband to the Countess of Gloucester, the King of England's sister.

King Edward with a body of horse fled towards Berwick, pursued by Sir James Douglas with a party of light cavalry, who effected nothing but taking up a few stragglers, who fell off from the King's troop. He first took shelter in the castle of Dunbar, from whence he was conveyed by sea to Bambrough or Berwick. It is certain he was at Berwick the third day after this defeat, as he issued a proclamation from thence, to advise his subjects of the loss of his privy seal; which was restored to him by Mounthermer, on his return.

After this victory, various bands of Scots ravaged Northumberland.

In the year 1315, the Scots attempted to take Berwick by surprize, by means of their shipping, with which they entered the river under false colours; but being discovered by the garrison before they began an attack, suffered considerable loss e'er they could effect an escape.

In the following year, the dearth was so great in Northumberland, that the people were obliged to eat the flesh of horses and dogs. A quarter of wheat sold for 40 shillings.

Berwick had continued in the possession of the English for 20 years, when the Commander in the town being corrupted, betrayed it to the Earl of Murray, in the year 1318, who led a body of Robert Bruce's forces.[*]

Barber, the Historian of Bruce, says, that one Spalding, incensed against the Governor's cruelty towards the Scotch inhabitants, had determined to betray the town into the hands of Bruce's party; and accordingly having intimated his design, and assigned the time and place for the enterprize, when it was his turn to mount guard at the Cowgate, Randolph and Douglas, with a chosen band, repaired to Dunse Park, and under cover of the night, advanced to a part of the wall which was left unguarded, and by ladders entered the town, unperceived by any but Spalding. They lay concealed till day-light, when other forces coming up, upon the assault, were aided by those within, and gained the place by noon. Many of the garrison and townsmen retired into the castle, from whence they made a sally, presuming the Scotch forces were weak, from the thin display of banners; but they were repulsed with some loss. The news of regaining Berwick was soon spread over the adjacent country, and numbers of Scotch crowded thither, to maintain the place and assist in the siege of the castle, which stood out six days,[*] and then capitulated on terms, for the garrison to march out with their arms, and depart for England. The Scotch King Robert Bruce soon after arrived, and with his Court resided some time in the castle. He made his son-in-law, Walter, Steward of Scotland, Governor, who, ambitious of possessing a settlement on the borders, where he might display his youthful courage, called out 500 Gentlemen his dependents, with others of inferior rank, skilful in shooting with bows and working engines, for the more effectual defence of the place. Sir John Crab, a Fleming, of high reputation in his art, was made chief Engineer.

King Edward, in the succeeding year, prepared to recover Berwick, and on the first of September approached with a large body of troops, having with him Lancaster, Pembroke, Arundell, Hertford, Warren, and the Earl Marshal the King's brother, Hugh D'Espencer, Roger de Tammori, and Hugh Deudeley, parceners to the earldom of Gloucester, by marriage of the coheiresses, the late Earl's sisters. This force was accompanied by a fleet from the cinque ports, laden with provisions and all kind of stores. The English fortified their camp, and then proceeded to an assault. The walls of the town are described to be so low, that an assailant might strike the people that defended them, with a spear. On the seventh of September they attempted an escalade, at different parts in the same time, and a ship was directed to approach with an engine, to attempt the walls on the side next the haven; but all these were fruitless, the ship was left on ground by ebb of tide, and burnt by the garrison. In the next general assault, which was made on the 13th of September, the English employed a great machine called a Sow, constructed for holding and defending men, who were moved in it towards the foot of the wall, in order to undermine and sap its foundation. Devices were used to burn this machine, but by throwing a stone of vast weight from an engine, the Sow was split, and her occupiers dislodged. On an attack of Marygate, the draw bridge was burnt, and the gate in great danger; but forces from the castle coming to its defence, the assailants were obliged to retire. These efforts harrassed and weakened the garrison considerably, and the town must on another assault, have fallen into the hands of the English, if Lancaster had not withdrawn his forces from the camp, exercising his malignant spirit at this critical time against the King, whom he hated most inveterately. The Earl of Murray and Lord Douglas had entered England with 10,000 chosen men, and penetrated almost to the city of York, the Queen escaping with difficulty. These circumstances determined Edward to raise the siege of Berwick.

King Robert Bruce perceiving the importance of this place, strengthened the walls, and raised them considerably in height, giving also many new towers and additional bulwarks to the whole.

In the year 1323, King Robert Bruce at this place ratified the treaty of peace entered into with King Edward III. by his plenipotentiaries at Bishop Thorpe near York.

In 1328, Joan the sister of King Edward III. being contracted to David the son and heir of King Robert Bruce, was conveyed to Berwick with a splendid retinue, where she was received by the Earl of Murray and Lord Douglas, representatives of the King, he being sick; and the nuptials were celebrated with great magnificence. She was called Make Peace, and carried with her the ragman roll, and all records which had been seized by King Edward I. to be again deposited in the Scotch archives.

At this ceremony, a magnificent parade was made by the nobles of each nation, and a sumptuous pageant crowded the place, with all that solemn pomp, which in the days of chivalry decked out public spectacles: Sumptured horses, and men braced in shining arms, forming long trains of steel effigies, stiffened in coats of mail, and strapped like inanimate beings to the saddle, were the chief objects: Lord Mortimers' retinue alone, consisted of nine score Knights, properly caparisoned, with their Esquires, Gentlemen, and Yeomen.

The expedition of Lord Henry Beaumont and his associates into Scotland, in the year 1332, being attended with remarkable success, became an object of serious attention with the English Monarch; in so much that Edward Baliol, supported by this party in his pretensions to the Crown of Scotland, as successor of his father John Baliol, having gained the castle of Roxburgh, King Edward received his letters patent issued from thence, in which he acknowledged the King of England supreme Lord of Scotland, and ceded to him the town, castle, and county of Berwick, to be annexed to his kingdom, with many other advantageous cessions and terms of amity and alliance, of such weight and consideration, that the King summoned his parliament to meet at York, to deliberate thereon. As many of the states, especially the Prelates were absent, nothing was determined: in general, it was thought expedient to treat with the guardian and nobles of King David's party; for which purpose commissioners were instructed to require homage and fealty from the Scotch King, and a cession of Berwick; but these requisitions were rejected with the utmost disdain. Baliol during this time had a perilous escape from Annan, and was obliged to take refuge in England, his party being thrown into the utmost confusion. King Edward was too far advanced in the cause to recede, and therefore accepted the terms proposed by Baliol at Roxburgh, and ratified them on his part.[*]

The English did not recover Berwick, till the 7th year of the reign of King Edward III. after the battle of Halydoun Hill, where the slaughter of the Scottish forces was terrible, 7 Earls, 900 Knights, 400 Esquires, and 32,000 common men died in the field; a carnage dreadful to recount, and from the very idea of which the soul recoils with horror.

King Edward the Third, on being refused the homage of David Bruce, and restitution of Berwick, ordered his Herald to proclaim his defiance of the Scotch King. The English army began to besiege Berwick on the 12th of April, 1333. The Scots knowing the reduction of this place would be one of the first and chief enterprizes of their adversaries, to the utmost of their power put it in a state of defence, to resist the great shock they presumed it would necessarily sustain: they filled it with a garrison of chosen veterans, and made Sir William Keith governor of the town, and Patrick Earl of Dunbar the keeper of the chief fortress or citadel. The King soon arrived, and remained in person before the walls about a month, when perceiving from the strength of the garrison, and the vigorous defence they made, that it would not be easy to reduce the place, he marched part of his army into Scotland, carrying the horrid ravages of war as far as Scone, Dundee, and Dumbarton. The most savage cruelties mark those times; the wild American never devised more shocking barbarities than stained these borders; each nation was ingenious in torture, in modes of devastation, and in the prosecution of revenge. Having glutted their avarice of blood, and being loaded with pillage, they again returned to Berwick, which King Edward still found unsubdued. After receiving reinforcements, he declared his determination was either to be master of Berwick, or effect something of consequence, by bringing his adversaries to battle. The siege was changed into a strict blockade: the besieged distressed by the cutting off supplies, made many sallies, with various fortune; they made a vigorous attack upon the fleet, and most of the navy then before Berwick was burnt. The garrison still entertained hopes of relief, and refused to capitulate, presuming this key to the kingdom, was of too great consequence to the Scotch, at that time to be neglected, and suffered to fall into the hands of the enemy. Lord Douglas had levied a powerful army, with which he marched to the neighbourhood of Berwick; but to the great distress of the garrison, who believed their day of deliverance was at hand, instead of attacking the English, Douglas crossed the Tweed, and in sight of the town, marched along the coast towards the castle of Bambrough, which being esteemed impregnable, was chosen by the King of England, as a secure residence for his Queen. The Scotch wasted several days in blocking up that fortress, and ravaging the adjacent parts, hoping that King Edward's sollicitude for his Queen, would induce him to raise the siege of Berwick.

The device which had been practised with effect in the year 1318, did not now take place; King Edward was not to be moved from his determined purpose; the garrison reduced to extremities for want of provisions, and dispirited by the apparent neglect of Douglas, proposed a treaty, which King Edward readily attended to, and the capitulation was concluded on the 15th day of July, under the following conditions: That the town and castle should be surrendered to King Edward on the 20th, if not relieved with 200 men at arms, or by a battle; that in the interval, there should be a cessation of arms; that in case of a surrender, the lives and properties of the garrison and inhabitants should be protected, with liberty to such as were so inclined to leave the place; and that the Governor should have safe conduct granted him to the Scotch army, to communicate the articles. Sir William Keith repaired to the Scotch camp without delay, and there prevailed that an attempt should be made to relieve the place: a measure totally disapproved by some of the oldest and most experienced of the Scotch leaders.

In this interval, a transaction is said to have taken place, which sullies the lustre of Edward's military character, and stamps an odium on his memory; it stands recorded to the following effect, by Buchanan, Boece, and other Scotch authors of great credit.

Hostages were given by the Scots, for performance of their part of the treaty, one of whom was the eldest son of Sir Alexander Seeton, who was Deputy Governor, and took command on Keith's resorting to the camp. King Edward had also in his camp Seeton's younger son, taken a prisoner at the assault made on the navy. The King apprehending that by the approach of the Scotch army, he might probably be deprived of the capture of Berwick, an object of so great importance, soon after the departure of Keith, contrary to the faith of Princes, the sacredness of treaties, the common policy of nations, and all private honour, demanded an immediate surrender of the place; threatening if Seeton refused, that he would immediately hang up his two sons, the hostage and the prisoner, before the walls. Seeton remonstrated, but Edward regardless of all the charges made against him for the violation of public faith, caused a gibbet to be erected in full view of the town, to put in execution his infamous threat. Seeton struggling between honour and parental feelings, between duty to his country and love for his children, suffered all the pangs arising from a conflict, in which every sentiment was on the rack: Nature would have prevailed, and Seeton's children been saved by a sacrifice of his country's honour and his own, had not the mother, with all the virtue and heroism of a Roman matron, and the greatness of the most exalted mind, argued forcibly to support his principle, and sustain his fainting soul; and when yet he seemed to relax, she withdrew him from the horrid spectacle, that he might retain his rectitude, though his sons were the inestimable price by which it was maintained. Edward unrelenting, put them to death, and Seeton kept the town.

This transaction is denied by the English Historians, who affirm that the Scotch army came in fight before the truce was expired; and therefore Edward could have no pretence for demanding a surrender.[*] This argument is futile, and seems weak in opposition to the uniformity of the Scotch Historians.

On the 18th of July, Lord Douglas led his army over the Tweed, and encamped at a place called Bothull or Bothville: the English possessed Halydown Hill, a very considerable eminence on the west of Berwick, having an easy declivity towards the river; the other sides were steeper. The Scotch disregarding this apparent advantage, determined to engage on the Scotch side of the hill, not only to secure a retreat, but in case of victory, to take advantage of the flow of tide, which would render the Tweed impassable to the English if they should be routed.

The Scotch army was disposed in four grand divisions; John Murray commanded the first, with Lord Andrew Frazer and his sons Simon and James; the second was commanded by Robert Lord High Steward of Scotland, with the principal men of his kindred and the Earl of Monteith; the third by the Earls of Ross, Sutherland, and Strathern; and the fourth by Lord Archibald Douglas, Guardian of the kingdom of Scotland, and Commander in Chief, accompanied by the Earls of Lenox and Carrick. The whole army amounted to 68,000. The number of King Edward's army is not positively mentioned by any author. It is supposed the number of the Scotch was not so great as Historians have asserted, and that they were nearly equal to their adversaries. King Edward also disposed his army in four divisions, each of which was flanked by choice and skilful archers.

When both sides were ready to engage, the onset was a while suspended, by the appearance of a Scotchman of gigantic stature, who had gained the name of Turnbull, on account of a gallant exploit, by which King Robert Bruce was saved from the attacks of a wild bull, which had unhorsed him, as he was hunting. Turnbull, attended by a great mastiff,[*] approached the English army, and gave a challenge for single combat. After a short pause, which the singularity of the circumstance occasioned, the challenge was accepted by Sir Robert Benhale, a young Norfolk Knight, much inferior in stature to the Scotch champion, but of great strength and adroitness in military atchievements. The mastiff immediately flew forward, and was received by the Knight with a stroke upon the loins with his sword, which severed his body. The Scotch champion advanced: Benhale, with great agility and skill, eluded the heavy blows aimed at him, and first cut off the left arm of his adversary, and at last struck off his head.[†]

The Scotch army began to ascend the hill about the hour of vespers, with great impetuosity; their leaders, chieftains, and men at arms dismounted, the more to animate the troops by rendering the danger equal. They were soon out of breath, in consequence of ascending the steep. The English archers were advantageously placed, in different stations on the hill, so as to pour down such showers of arrows on the close bodies of the Scotch troops, as made a terrible slaughter: they were also greatly annoyed by the rolling down of large stones from the eminence, and were soon thrown into confusion.[‡] The English commanders instantly availing themselves of the enemy's disorder, ordered an attack to be made by the spearmen and men at arms, by which they were pressed whilst breathless and dispirited, so that multitudes fell. The Scotch often retreated, and again rallied and bravely returned to the fight, fiercely maintaining the battle till their General was pierced by a spear: his fall struck the army with a panic, and a total rout ensued. The carnage was dreadful. The servants charged with the care of the horses fled, and left their masters to the destroying sword of a victorious enemy, who were not accustomed to mercy. Edward, at the head of a chosen brigade of cavalry, and archers on horseback, attended by Lord D' Arcy with his Irish troops, led on the pursuit, and directed the slaughter. The country for the distance of five miles, was strewed with carcasses of those who were cut down by their pursuers.[*] Among the persons of distinction in the Scotch army, there fell the General, the Earls of Ross, Sutherland, Carrick, Athol, Lenox, and Monteith; three Stewards, uncles of Robert the Lord High Steward, three Frazers, Sir John Graham, Sir Duncan Campbell, and Sir William Tudway. [†] Among the prisoners were Sir William Keith, Sir William Douglas, Sir Robert Kirkpatrick, Sir William Campbell, Sir Gilbert Wiseman, Sir Alexander Graham, and Sir Oliver Sinclair. Boece charges King Edward with an unmanly piece of barbarity, the putting these prisoners to death.

The loss of the English is not related with certainty by any Historian. Rymer records a note sent by King Edward, to direct a public thanksgiving after this victory, in which it is said, ‘that the battle was gained without much loss on his (the King's) side.’ This expression implies a loss more considerable than what some authors have set forth, viz. one Knight, one Esquire, and 13 foot soldiers.[‡]

On the day after the battle, the castle and town of Berwick was surrendered, the King faithfully observing the articles of capitulation. A public thanksgiving was ordered through his dominions, and he made a donation of 20l. per annum to the Cistercian Nuns, near whose convent the battle was fought, with full reparation of all damages done to the conventual church and other buildings; as the author of the Border History says, ‘thus affecting, like most other conquerors, to draw Heaven to his party; and to regard the success accompanying the most unjust enterprizes, as a proof of the peculiar favour of the Deity.’

King Edward determining to retain Berwick, appointed Lord Henry Percy Governor of the castle, and gave a commission to him and the Earl of March, to act as joint Wardens of all the country on this side the Scottish sea, where the terms of peace were received. He required 12 hostages for Berwick, to be chosen out of the chief inhabitants; eight of whom he placed at Newcastle, and four at York.

Edward Baliol did homage to King Edward at Newcastle upon Tyne, in June 1334, his parliament having ratified the treaty of Roxburgh, whereby the castle, town, and county of Berwick, with their appendages, were to be annexed to the Crown of England for ever.

In the year 1339, Lord John Mowbray was Governor of Berwick: he had in garrison 120 men at arms, 100 halberdiers, and 200 archers.

In 1340, King Edward III. was at Berwick with an army of 40,000 foot and 6000 horse.

In 1341, King Edward kept the festival of Easter here, and held a tournament, in which 12 Knights of Scotland entered the lists with 12 of the King's train. This spectacle was exhibited with great magnificence and solemn pomp; but from the animosity which subsisted between the people of the two nations, this exhibition was attended with so much ire and inveteracy, and such bitter rivalship, that two Scotch Knights were slain, and Sir John Twiford, an English Knight.

On the 12th of November, A. D. 1354, a treaty was held at Berwick for the ransom of David Bruce, King of Scotland, taken prisoner at the battle of Durham, on the 26th of October 1346; and on the 3d of October 1357, all the articles of treaty for his deliverance were concerted there; and the payments of the ransom-money were ordered to be made at Berwick, Norham, or Bambrough. On failure of performance of the former articles, another treaty succeeded, with a truce for 14 years; under which 56,000 marks were to be paid, by yearly instalments of 4000 marks each.
[*]

In the 29th year of the reign of King Edward III. he then being on one of his French expeditions, the Scots surprized the town, but the castle sustained their assault from the 29th of November to the month of January following, when King Edward having returned, and received the intelligence at the instant of his landing from Calais, he tarried in London only three days before he set forward for Berwick; before which place he came on the 14th day of January with a large army, attended by a great naval power, with which he laid siege to the town both by sea and land. The King entered the castle, which still held out for him, and meditated a sally at the time his troops began the assault on other quarters: Sir Walter Manny, with miners brought from the forest of Dean, was employed at the same time, in advancing a mine below the wall. These vigorous measures induced the garrison to surrender the town. Some of the Scotch Historians say, the garrison on the approach of King Edward's army evacuated the place, having first plundered it and beat down the walls. The King added greatly to the fortifications, and strengthened the fortress with several new works. The surprize of Berwick by the Scotch, is spoken of with some incredible circumstances: Steward Earl of Angus, with Earl March, having collected a powerful navy, from different parts of Scotland, in which they embarked a chosen band of soldiers, entered Tweed in a dark night, and landed the forces under the walls unperceived: by break of day, with scaling ladders, they mounted the wall at Cowgate, and overpowered the guard; after which they soon made themselves masters of the whole town. It seems probable there was some treachery in favour of the Scotch assailants.[*]

Berwick Castle afterwards had many changes of possessors. In the year 1377, seven intrepid and valiant Scots made themselves masters of it in the night, killed the Governor, Sir Robert Boynton, and gave liberty to his Lady under a ransom of 2000 marks. But these heroes did not long possess their honourable acquisition, for the Earls of Northumberland and Nottingham, and the Lords Lucy, Neville, and Stafford, with several other English Nobles, soon after invested the place, took the fortress by storm, and put the Scots to the sword, who were increased to the number of 48: but this was not effected till the small garrison had held out eight days against 7000 English archers and 3000 horse, and during the assault lost only two of their number. The Northumbrians soon after ravaged the territories of Lord March, in revenge for his destroying the town of Roxburgh. The above-mentioned surprize was effected in the night before the feast of St. Andrew. The leader, some authors say, was the valiant Sir John Gordon, but the English Historians alledge it was Alexander Ramsey. When the Earl of Northumberland summoned them to surrender, they answered with insolence, ‘that they would not yield it either to the King of England or Scotland, but would retain and defend it for the King of France.’

In 1384, the Scotch gained Berwick, by corrupting the Deputy Governor. The Duke of Lancaster, then in enmity with Henry Percy Earl of Northumberland, possessing the King's ear, improved this circumstance greatly to the Earl's disadvantage, and he was in consequence attainted of high treason, as having been guilty of treachery; and consequently his possessions were forfeited. The Earl thinking his immediate presence before Berwick was of the first consequence, with a numerous army besieged the town; but bloodshed was spared by the secret application of 2000 marks, which regained the place. This event operated so powerfully as to gain the King's pardon, and restitution to the Earl of his possessions and honours.[*]

A conspiracy and insurrection were formed in the year 1405, against King Henry IV, in which the Earl of Northumberland, the Archbishop of York, Thomas Mowbray, son of the then Duke of Norfolk Hereditary Earl Marsh•l, Lord Bardolph, and others, were the leaders. The Earl of Northumberland could not brook the indignities his Sovereign had heaped upon him; for beside the grief he sustained in the loss of his son who fell at the battle of Shrewsbury, and the execution of his brother, he had the mortification to see the King's third son John, assume the office of High Constable, which the King had conferred on the Earl for life, with the Wardenship of the East Marches; he also was deprived of the office of Warden of the West Marches, in favour of the Earl of Westmoreland. The King demanded the resignation of the castles of Berwick and Jedburgh, and in contempt of the general act of grace for the remission of all offences, passed after the battle of Shrewsbury, sent out commissioners to compound with the Earl's adherents, and grant them separate charters. The Archbishop, and Earl Marshal were apprehended, before the Earl of Northumberland could join them with his forces, and suffered execution at York. The Earl of Northumberland held the castle of Berwick. On the King's arrival at Pontefract, he ordered a confiscation of all the Earl's estates, and commanded the Sheriff of Yorkshire, to summon the whole military power of his county, to rendezvous at Newcastle. The force with which the King proceeded on this expedition, was no less than 37,000 men, with engines and artillery for a siege. This powerful armament alarming the Earl, with his grandson, the son of Henry Hotspur, and Bardolph, he retired privily from Berwick, and took refuge in Scotland. Sir William Greystock was left to command the fortress. King Henry on his march summoned the castle of Warkworth to surrender, but it was not yielded to him, till after a siege of eight days, when the garrison capitulated on the honourable terms of departing with their horses and accoutrements. He made the like summons to the garrison of the castle of Alnwick, to which he received for answer,[*] "That wynne Berwick, ones, he should have his entent." The army advanced to Berwick, and made the usual preparations for a regular siege, whilst the Governor on his part pursued the necessary manoeuvres, for a vigorous defence, in hopes of receiving succour from Scotland, which had been promised him by the Earl on his departure. The royal army had some pieces of ordnance, engines of destruction which had never before appeared against the fortifications of Berwick; and which Speed, by the authority of Walsingham, says, were on this occasion, for the first time, employed in Britain. A shot of an enormous size, discharged from a cannon of large bore,[*] shattered one of the principal towers, which threw the garrison into such consternation, that they immediately surrendered. The Governor, Sir Henry Bolton, and Blenkinsop suffered instant decapitation; and the remaining part of the garrison were committed close prisoners.[†] On the royal army's returning, Alnwick Castle was surrendered by Henry Percy of Athol and William Clifford, who had the command, on the same terms of capitulation as had been granted to the garrison of Warkworth.

On the demise of King Henry V. in France, and the accession of his infant son, the Scots, in the year 1422, invaded England. The Governor of Scotland with one army invested Berwick, whilst Earl Douglas with another laid siege to Roxburgh; but neither of these attempts were attended with success.

In Leland's Collectanea [‡] are the following notes: ‘Edward Erle of March, because King Henry had broken convenauntes, was made King at Westminster Anno D. 1459.’

‘And strayte King Edwarde rode northward, and at Towton, not far from York, on Palmes Sunday advengid his fathers deth, and wan the feld, where were slayn xxM people on both parties. The Erle of Northumberland, the Lord Clifford, Syr John Nevil, the Erle of West merlandes brother, and Andrew Trollop were killid at this tyme.’

‘King Henry, the Prince, the Queen, the Duke of Somerset, Henry Duke of Excestre, the Lord Roos, Syr John Fortescue Chief Judge of England, and Tailbois Erle of Kyme, being at York, and hering of this, fled first to Newcastelle, and then to Berwike, delyvering it to the Scottes.’

Upon a rupture with Scotland in the year 1480, the English in the winter laid siege to Berwick, by sea and land, with a great force. Part of the fortifications were then new, the same having been constructed by King James III. of Scotland, after the surrender above mentioned, who had expended a large sum in strengthening and rebuilding the walls of the town, repairing the castle, and furnishing it with a compleat arrangement of artillery. The assailants flattered themselves, from the newness of the works, they should be able to beat them down without much difficulty, and easily win the place; but although considerable breaches were effected, the garrison made so brave a defence, that after spending a great part of the winter in carrying on the siege, the English were obliged to raise it, and retire with disgrace.

King Edward IV. in the year 1482, about the beginning of July marshalled his army at Alnwick, amounting to 22,000 men, the van of which was led by Henry Earl of Northumberland. So great a force appearing unexpectedly on the banks of Tweed opposite to Berwick, the town made no resistance, and was immediately seized by the English. Lord Hales, who commanded the castle, having answered that he was determined not to surrender it, 4000 men under the command of Lord Stanley, Sir John Elrington, and Sir William Parr, were left to besiege it, whilst the main army marched into Scotland.[*] The great confusion which shortly after took place in the Scottish state, it is said, was Lord Hales's sole motive for surrendering the castle on the 24th day of the succeeding August, he having no hope of succours. On the succeeding truce Berwick was given up to England, and the Scots engaged never again to attempt by any art the reduction of it. Since which time it has constantly remained in the possession of the Crown of England.

In the reigns of King Richard III. and King James III. of Scotland, Commissioners were appointed by the two Crowns, to set the limits of Berwick; on which occasion the disputed ground was agreed to remain uncultivated, unbuilt, and uninhabited.

In the treaty and convention entered into by King Henry VII. and James IV. King of Scotland, A. D. 1502, it was stipulated, that the town and castle of Berwick, with their ancient bounds and the inhabitants thereof, should for ever remain and be included in the present perpetual peace, friendship, league, and confederacy: so that neither the King of Scotland, his heirs and successors, nor any of them, should by themselves, or any of their subjects, lieges, or vassals, make or suffer to be made war, insult, ambush, or siege, publicly or privately, against the places themselves or their inhabitants; nor the King of England, his heirs, successors, or any of them, should by themselves or the inhabitants of the town and castle, make any war insult or siege on the King of Scotland or his vassals.

In the month of January, A. D. 1502, James IV. King of Scotland, espoused Margaret eldest daughter of King Henry VII. In Leland's Collectanea is a record, stiled ‘The Fyancelles of Margaret eldest daughter of King Henry VII. to James King of Scotland: Together with her departure from England, journey into Scotland, her reception and marriaged there, and the great feasts held on that account. Written by John Younge, Somerset Herald, who attended the Princess on her journey.’ As the ceremonies attending her journey through Northumberland give us a striking representation of the magnificence of those times, they are worthy attention.

‘The XXIIIIth day of the said monneth (June) the Qwene departed from Durham, accompanyd by hyr noble company, as she had beene in the dayes past, in fayr manere and good ordre, for to com to the towne of New Castell. Thre mylle fore thens came to her the Prior of Tynemouth, well apoynted, and in hys company xxx horsys. Hys folks in hys liveray. And ther was in lyk wys Syr Rawff Harbotelle Knyght, richly apoynted, well mounted, and hys folks in his liveray to the nombre of XL horsys.’

‘At the intrynge of the said towne of New Castell, the Queene apoynted hyr, and intred in noble astat. Ich Lord and others tuke newe horsys rychly apoynted, in special th' Erle of Northumberland, as in the manere of the entrynge of York, and hys folks in lyke wys.’

‘Upon the bryge cam in processyon rychly revested the College of the said towne, and with them the Freres Carmelets and Jacobius with the croseys, the wich war gyffen to the sayd Qwene to kysse, as before, by the Archbyschop.’

‘After them was the Mayr of the said towne, acompayned of the Scheryffes and Aldermen, well apoynted, on foot. The wich receyved the said Qwene honorably: and after the receyvynge the said Mayr monted on horseback, beryng his masse before hyr.’

‘At the bryge end, apon the gatt, war many children, revsted of surpeliz, syngyng mellodiously hympnes, and playing on instruments of many sortes.’

‘Within the said towne, by ordre, the bourges and habitants war honnestly apoynted. The streytts were hanged, and the wyndow loupps, topps, and schipps was so full of people, gentylmen and gentylwomen, in so great nombre, that it was a playsur for to se. But they maid non sound of artyllery and ordinance.’

‘In such statt and fayr aray, was the said Qwene brought and conveyd to the Freres Austyns, wher she was lodged, and honestly receyved by thos revested with the crosse, in the manere as it is rehersed befor. And when she was brought to hyr lodgyng every men drew hym to hys awn.’

‘The next day after, being the XXVth day of the said monneth, Saunt Jamys day, she abode all the day in the said town, and was at the church masse very nobly acompayned.’

‘That fam day, at even, th' Erle of Northumbrelaund made to many Lords, Knights, and others, a goodeley baunket, which lasted to mydnyght, for cause of the games, daunces, sports, and songs, with force of ypocras, succres, and other metts of many delicyouses maners.’

‘To the said New Castell cam the Lord Dacre of the North, acompayned of many gentylmen, honestly apoynted, and hys folks arayd in his liveray.’

‘The XXVIth day of the said monneth the said Queene departed from the said place, after the custome precedent, varey richly and in fayr aray. And the sayd Mayr conveyd hyr out of the said towne, and after tuke lyve of her.’

‘Haff a mylle owt of the said towne was Syr Humfrey Lysle and the Prior of Bryngburn, well apoynted and well horst, to the nombre of XX horsys. Their folks arayd of their liveray. And a mylle from the said towne was in ordre the Scheryffe of Northumberlaund, Syr Rawff Evers, in company of many other gentylmen, varey well appoynted, their folks clothed in their liveray, well monted. And with them wer many honests folks of the countre, with spers and bowes, in jackets, to the nombre of two hondreth horsys.’

‘With the sam fayr company, was the said Qwene conveyd to Morpath, and by the towne passed in fayr ordre, wher ther was much people; and so she went to the abbay, where sche was well receyved by the Abbot and Religyous revested, at the gatt of the church, with the crosse. And after the receyvyng she was conveyd to her lodgyngs in the said place for that sam nyght.’

‘The xxvijth day of the said monneth, the Qwene departed from Morpath, after the custom before, to goo to Alnewyk, a place of th' Erle of Northumbelaund. And in half of the way cam before hyr, Maister Henry Gray, Esquier, well appointed. In hys company many other gentilmen, and hys folks well monted and arayd in his liveray, to the nombre of a hundreth horsys.’

‘Two mylle from the sayd place, the said Erle cam and mett hyr, well acompanyed, and brought hyr thorough hys park, where she kylde a buk with her bow. After which she was conveyde to the said castell, where sche and hyr company was welcomed by the said Lorde, the wich maid hyr varey good chere.’

‘The next day, the xxviiith day of the said monneth, she was all the holl day in the said castell, and by the Lord well cheryst and hyr company.’

‘The xxixth day of the sayd monneth the said Qwene departed from Alnewyk, for to go for Barrwyk, and at half of the way, named Belleford, she bayted. For Syr Thomas Darcy, Capittayne of the said Barrwicke, had maid rady hyr dynner at the said place very well and honnestly.’

‘For that the said Maister Henry Grays abouffe named is Sheryffe of Ellaund Shyre and Northumberland Shyre, he bore his rod before the said Qwene, sens the entrynge of the said Lordships to Barrwyk.’

‘Betwyx Alnewyk and Barrwyk cam to the Qwene Maister Rawff Wodryngton, having in hys company many gentlemen well appoynted. His folks arayd in liveray, well horsed, to the nomber of an hundreth horsys.’

‘At the comyng ny to Barrwyk was shot ordonnounce, the wiche was fayr for to here. And ny to the sayd place, the Qwene drest hyr. And ichon in fair aray, went the on after the other in fayr ordre.’

‘At the entrynge of the bryge was the said capitaine well apoynted, and in hys company hys gentylmen and men of armes who receyved the said Qwene into the said place.’

‘At the tother end of the bryge toward the gatt, was the Maister Marshall compayned of hys company, ichon bearing a staffe in his haund.’

‘After hym was the college revested with the crosse, the wiche was gyffen hyr for to kysse by th' Archbischop as before.’

‘At the gatt of the said towne was the Maister Porter, with the gard and soyars of the said place, in a row well apoynted. Ichon of those had an hallebarde or other staffe in his haund, as the others. And apon the said gatt war the mynstraylls of the sayd Capitayn, playnge of their instruments.’

‘In the midds of the said town was the Maistre Chamberlayn, and the Mayre, acompayned of the bourges and habitaunts of the said place, in fayre ordre, and well apoynted.’

‘In such fayr ordre and company she was conveyd and brought to the castell, wher she was receyved by the Lady D'Arcy honnestly accompayned.’

‘The XXX and XXXIth days of the said monneth, the Qwene tarried at Barrwyk, where she had great chere of the said Cappitayne of Barrwyk, and hyr company in likewys. That sam day was by the said Capyiteyne, to the pleasur of the said Qwene, gyffen corses of chasse within the said town, with other sports of bayrs and of doggs togeder.’

‘The first day of August the Qwene departed from Barwick for to go to Lamberton kerke in varrey fair company, and well appoynted.’

‘First, of the said Archbyschops and Bischops, the Erles of Surrey and of Northumberlaund, the Lord Dacres, the Lord Scroop and his son, the Lord Gray, the Lord Latemer, the Lord Chamberlain, Maister Polle, and other Nobles and Knyghts. The young gentylmen wer well apoynted at their devises, and ther was fou much of cloth of gold, as of other ryche rayments. Their horsys frysks in harnays of the selfe: and upon thos orfavery, sum others had campaynes gylt, the others campaynes of Sylver. Gambads at plasur, that it was fayr thyng for to se.’

‘The sayd Erle of Northumberlaund was varey well mounted, hys horse rychly appoynted, his harnays of gold in brodeux, hymselfe in a jakette betten of gold, well wrought in goldsmith werke, and brodery, and in a cloke of porple borded of cloth of gold. His Hensmen appoynted as before mentioned. Incontinently before hym rode the Maister of his Horse, conveying the sam thre Hensmen arayed in jaketts all of orfavery and brodery, and ther harnays of their horsys in such wys of orfavery and brodery, full of small bells that maid a grett noyse. After thos cam a gentylman ledyng in his haund a corser, covered to the grownde of a vary rych trapure betten of gold of orfavery and brodery in oraunge. And ichon of the sam a gren¦tre in the manere of a pyne, and maid the said Lord pannades, and they weigited varey honestly.’

‘After cam the said Qwene varey rychly arayde and enorned with gold and precyous stones, setting in hyr lytere rychly apoynted. Her foteman alwayes ny to hyr well apoynted, and monted upon fayr pallefrys, and their harnays ryche in appareyll.’

‘After cam hyr char rychly apoynted, fournysched of ladyes and gentylwomen well apoynted, and after that, sum other gentylwomen on horsebak honorably apoynted.’

‘The sayd Cappitayne of Barrwyk, and my lady hys wyffe acompayned of many gentylmen and gentylwomen rychly arayd, and clothed of a liveray, went with the sayd Qwene to Edinburghe.’

‘Before the said Qwene war by ordre Johannes and hys company, and Henry Glascebery and hys company, the trompetts, officers of armes, and sergeants of masse, so that at the departing out of the said Barrwyk and at hyr Bedward at Lambertonkerke it was a joy for to see and here.’

‘In such stat and aray the said Qwene cam out of Barrwyk, ichon by ordre, the Lordes and Nobles three and thre togeder, to the said Lambertonkerke, and the company behind well apoynted and in fair aray, that it was estimed that ther war of the parte of the said Qwene xviii C or two M horsys well apoynted.’

On the 10th day of October A. D. 1525, a treaty was concluded at Berwick, between the Commissioners of King Henry VIII. and King James V. for a three-years peace; and in the year 1528, the truce was renewed, and the peace continued for five years.

In the year 1547, King Henry VIII. being dead, leaving his son Edward VI. an infant of ten years of age, the Earl of Hertford, then created Duke of Somerset, in the month of August, advanced to Berwick with an army of 18,000 men, attended by a fleet of 34 ships of war, 30 transports and a galley, on an expedition to Scotland.[*] The army lay encamped without the walls of the town.

In the year 1550, great repairs were made in the fortress of Berwick, the expence of which, with the repairs of Calais, are alledged in the King's Journals as the reason for debasing the coin; from thence it also appears, some of the walls had fallen, the foundations having been shaken by working a bulwark. Also in the year 1552, it appears considerable improvements had been made to the fortifications, in which, by the minutes of Secretary Cecil,[†] 6000l. had been expended. The fort then erected was contrived to have four bulwarks, for erecting which the wall was to have been left open, on the enemy's side, for a considerable space; but as this was dangerous and expensive, it was resolved the wall should be strengthened by an additional wall, and two slaughter-houses, to scour the outer cu••ains, and a great ditch intervening, that an other wall fortified in the same manner should be erected within the former. Sir Nicholas Sturley appears to have been nominated Captain of this new fort, Alexander Brett, Porter, and one Rokesby, Marshal. No vestiges of these works now appearing, it is to be presumed they were rased, when Queen Elizabeth put the fortifications upon a regular and modern plan.

In the reigns of King Edward VI. and Queen Mary of Scotland, Berwick by treaty was made a county town, and as Rymer's Faedra notes it, "a free town independant of both states."

In the year 1558, Lord Wharton in his reports to the Lord President of the North, says, the ordinary officers of the town appointed by letters patent, were, a Captain, a Marshal, a Treasurer, a Chamberlain, a Porter, and a Master of the Ordnance: These with the Mayor for the year, were counsellors for the town, each having a yearly salary, and pay for attendants.

In the year 1566, Queen Mary of Scotland came into the neighbourhood to view Berwick; she was met at the extreme of the liberties by the Deputy Governor and his train, who conducted her first to Hallidon Hill, and thence to the west of the town, where she had a perfect view of the place, and was saluted by a general discharge of the ordnance.

In 1588, King James VI. of Scotland did the like, and received the same salute.

Queen Elizabeth having fortified Berwick, made the following military establishment there, in the year 1576, as appears by the archieves of the borough.

The garrison consisted of eight companies of musqueteers, two of them containing 100, and the rest 65 men each; the pay of the private men 8d. per day, Captains of larger companies 4s. of lesser companies 2s. 80 horsemen under command of eight constables: the horsemen had 4d. per day added to their former pay of 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The gunners were augmented, on account of the great additional number of large ordnance, from 28 to 60, with a Master Gunner, a Mate, and four Quarter Masters: the whole establishment for the artillery amounting to about 860l.

£

s.

d.

The Lord Governor his Salary

133

6

8

A Chaplain

13

6

8

A Secretary

13

6

8

40 Household Servants at

6

13

4 each

Especial money per annum

40

0

0

And a reward in consideration of his Barony

The Marshal, his Salary

33

6

8

An under Marshal

16

0

0

20 Horsemen each

6

13

4

Two Tipstaffs each

5

6

8

An increase of pay given by her Majesty

66

13

4

The Treasurer, his Salary

20

0

0

Two Clerks each

13

6

8

20 Horsemen each

6

13

4

An increase of pay

80

0

0

Gentleman Porter, his Salary

20

0

0

Six Horsemen each

6

13

4

14 Footmen each

5

6

8

An increase of pay

50

0

0

Chamberlain, his Salary

20

0

0

12 Soldiers, 4 at

6

13

4

Eight each

6

0

0

Master of the Ordnance per day

0

5

0

One Clerk per day

0

1

0

Two Servants

0

0

6

Two Labourers

0

0

6

Lord Hunsdon was Governor of Berwick at the time of this establishment; his council was composed of Sir Robert Constable, Knight, High Marshal; Robert Bowes, Esq Treasurer; John Selbie, Esq Chief Porter; Sir Francis Russel, Knight, Chamberlain; and Thomas Sutton, Esq Master of the Ordnance. The Mayor had an appointment of 10l. per ann. the Customer 10l. and the Comptroller of the Customs 5l.

The Master of the Ordnance had under his charge more than 20 artificers employed for service of the garrison: among these was one Bowyer, one Fletcheur or arrow-maker, and one Master Wheeler.

The whole number of men on this establishment, was 980, and their pay amounted to the yearly sum of 12734l. 19s. 2d.

In the year 1603, on the demise of Queen Elizabeth, King James VI. of Scotland, was proclaimed March 26th, at this place, King of England, France, and Ireland, by the name of King James I. In the archieves of Berwick, is kept a copy of the letter wrote by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Commons, dated on the above day, informing the King, ‘they had, with present expedition, and with what solemnity the leisure of time would afford, published and proclaimed his sacred Majesty King of England, France, and Ireland; and entreats him to pardon such defects as by ignorance, omission, or otherwise, by the straitness of time, had happened in the performance thereof.’ To which the King returned the following answer.

‘To our trusty friends, the Mayor and Aldermen of the town of Berwick.’

‘Trusty friends, wee greet you heartily well. We render you thanks for your so dutyfull affection, utterit in assisting and concurring sae willingly with your Governour, in putting the town of Berwick in our hands, which we have appointit to be governed in the same form and manner as heretofore, while we advise otherwise to dispose upon the same; assuring you always to find us a gratious and loving Prince, wha sal be careful to maintaine your wonted liberties and privileges, and to see that the same be nae ways braugillit, nor otherwaies prejudget. Sua we commit you to God. From Hallirude house this 27th day of March 1603.’

On the King's arrival at the boundary of the liberties of Berwick, he was received with every demonstration of duty and welcome, by Sir John Carey, then Marshal, accompanied by the officers of the garrison: their several corps of horse and foot were marshalled in due order, and on the King's passing saluted him with a feu de joy, which was returned by a discharge of the artillery on the ramparts. The roads were lined with people, who on all sides joined in the loudest acclamations.

When his Majesty entered the gate, the keys of the town were delivered to him, by William Selby, Gentleman Porter; who was immediately knighted, and the keys were returned. In the market-place, he was met by the body corporate of the borough; Hugh Gregson, the Mayor, presented him with an offering of gold, and surrender of their charter; after which the Recorder made a speech of congratulation: these the King received most graciously, at the same time restoring the charter, and promising his royal favour and protection. The King proceeded to the church to return thanks for his peaceful entry into his new dominions, when Toby Mathews, Bishop of Durham, preached an excellent sermon. From thence his Majesty went to the castle, the ordnance were again discharged, and the streets re-echoed with acclamations of joy. On the following day the King received several of the English Nobles, among whom were Lord Cobham, and Henry Howard, brother of the Duke of Norfolk, who came to Berwick to pay their duty to their new Sovereign: his Majesty inspected the fortifications, magazines, and port, and at the head of the garrison drawn out and under arms, with his own hands, discharged a piece of ordnance.

Berwick became the ducal title of James Fitz James, natural son of King James II. of England, whom he created Duke of Berwick, A. D. 1686.

Berwick is a borough of very great antiquity, being as before asserted one of the four original Scotch burghs;[*] the corporation was prescriptive, but after this place became the settled possession of the English Crown, the corporate body was established by charter; and at present consists of a Mayor, Recorder, and four Bailiffs, chosen annually by the burgesses. This borough was summoned to send two members to parliament in the reign of King Henry VIII. the election of representatives is by the burgesses, the Mayor and Bailiffs making the return.[†]

The charter granted to the corporation by King James I. soon after his accession to the Crown of England, gives to the Mayor, Recorder, and Bailiffs many special liberties and privileges; or I may say more properly, confirms to them the several ancient prescriptive franchises and privileges, which Berwick from very distant ages had possessed: among which is the power of holding a Court of Pleas every fortnight —the right of having four Serjeants at Mace and a Coroner — a Guild with its privileges at large—authority to make By-laws for the government of the town—to purchase lands of the value of 60l. per annum, notwithstanding the statute of mortmain. The burgesses are privileged with exemption of toll throughout the kingdom, and of prisage or imposts of wine brought into the port of Berwick; of pontage, [*] passage, murage, [†] pannage, [‡] cranage, [§] lastage, ‖ carncage, [**] kayage, [††] vinage, [‡‡] achate and rechate. [§§] The corporation hath power to tax the inhabitants for the chamber's use, and hath seck and sock, toll and theam, ward and ward penny. The Mayor is Clerk of the Markets for the time being, and holds two weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday, having a pye-powder court, tolls, tallages, picage or stall-money, fines, amerciaments, &c. The jurisdiction of Berwick comprehends a court leet, and view of frankpledge, and anciently possessed the powers of infangtheof and outfangtheof; and with aid of the Coroner, who in this liberty retains the ancient authority of that office, and executes the duty of Sheriff, the body corporate hath power of assize and gaol delivery.

The Mayor and Corporation hold the seigniory borough and soke of Berwick, with all rights and privileges legally appertaining to such possessions, under the yearly rent of 20l. paid to the Receiver of the Crown. The boundaries are from the port, extending northward by the sea shore to the road called Brown Rod, and by that road westward to the rivulet of Witteter, and by the said road to the river Tweed, and by the river's banks to the port or haven.

The scite of the ancient castle and its outworks remains in the Crown, being specially reserved in the grants made to the corporation. Several tenements are in the same reservation, a water mill, the inner castle hills enclosed, the outer castle hills unenclosed, New Water Haugh, Lumsden's Avery, Gayn's Law, Goak Haugh, the Sunk, Maudlin Field, Coney Garths, Marshal Meadow, Horsman's Bat, Horsman's Meadow, Yellow Gowland Meadow, fishings in Tweed from Finches Haugh, and lands called Broadshaugh, Borrey Avery, and Ethermouth Avery.[*]

By the rolls of King Edward the Second's reign, it appears that a house of Carmelites, or White Friars, was founded at Berwick, by Sir John Grey, about the year 1270, whose duty it was to officiate at the chapel royal within the castle.[†]

According to the custom of the times, a religious house was founded at Berwick Bridge, dedicated to the Holy Trinity.[‡] Those praying fathers were placed in such situations, to take possession of the moment of the traveller's gratitude, for his easy and safe passage over great rivers.

By Rymer's Convent. it appears that there was also a house of Grey Friars here.[*] The Master and Brethren of God's house are mentioned in Claus. 2 Edward III. m. 16. and had a grant of 20 marks per ann. out of Wetherborn, by pat. 21 Edward III. m. 21. and pat. 22 Edward III. p. 2. m. ‘Rex protegit Willielmo de Emeldon statum quem habet in Hospitali Domus Dei de Berwico.’ [†]

Tanner says, here was a house of Friars Preachers before the year 1291.[‡] He also speaks of an Hospital dedicated to Mary Magdalen, with an appendant Hermitage at Sogden. [§] A field between Berwick walls and the sea, mentioned in the reservations to the Crown, bears the name of Maudlin Field to this day, from its being the ancient scite of the Hospital.‖

There is a free Grammar School appertaining to this town, founded by Queen Elizabeth, the Master nominated by the Guild. The attention paid to this part of the charge vested in the body corporate, cannot appear in more favourable language, than contained in the advertisement given in the note.[*]

The chief imports of the port of Berwick are from Norway and the Baltic, consisting of timber and deals: the exports, corn, wool, salmon, and eggs; the latter of which articles, though apparently small or insignificant in the list, yet brings in an annual sum of 13 or 14,000l. they being sent to London for the use of sugar refiners, &c. packed in boxes the thick end down.

The salmon fishery here is very considerable. Mr Pennant speaks of it in the following terms: ‘They lay on each side the river, and are all private property, except what belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, which in rent and tithe of fish, brings in 450l. per annum: for all the other fisheries are liable to tithe. The common rents of these are 50l. a year, for which tenants have as much shore, as serves to launch out and draw their nets on shore; the limits of each are staked, and I observed that the fishers never failed going as near as possible to their neighbour's limits. One man goes off in a small flat-bottomed boat, square at one end; and taking as large a circuit as his net admits, brings it on shore at the extremity of his boundary, where others assist in landing it. The best fishery is on the south side; very fine salmon trout are often taken here, which come up from the sea to spawn, and return in the same manner as the salmon do. For a fuller account of this fishery, vide British Zoology III. 241. To it may also be added, that in the middle of the river, not a mile west of the town, is a large stone, on which a man is placed, to observe what is called the Reck of the salmon coming up.’

Historians have differed greatly in the etymology of the name of Berwick. Camden seems to determine in favour of the Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the town of the Bernicians.

After having mentioned the evidences of antiquity, it is requisite, before I quit the subject, I should speak of Berwick in its natural state. Being built on an angular point of land, at the mouth of Tweed, on two sides it is bounded by water: the sea in this part of the channel is tempestuous and rough, the tide setting in very strong, occasions a heavy surge, which increased by frequent storms, renders the coast tremendous. The prospect of the ocean conveys to the contemplative mind, a grand association of images, which describe the might and majesty of the Creator. As I walked the banks, imagination roved at large, but took a melancholy strain; I conceived I heard the alarm guns fired at Bambrough Castle, and the signal of distress waved in my Fancy's eye, from some vessel at a distance. The ocean, which before had affected my soul with a scene of magnificent delight, now seemed full of horror and dismay; the rolling billows became tremendous, the yawning gulph an object of gloomy terror, the whole conveyed the apprehension of imminent peril and distress; and in the end, all the agonies of a distracted crew, who laboured for life, filled my imagination, and the wanderings of Fancy were replete with dismay and misery.

The inhabitants of Berwick have enough of such horrid scenes: the coast is terrible to mariners. After having once been witness to so melancholy an event, one would scarce ever look upon the sea again with pleasure.

The Land Prospect doth not produce a scene wild enough to be called romantic, or sufficiently cultivated, to be smooth, placid, and agreeable. The banks of Tweed loss much of their sweetness in the environs of the town; and Flora reserves most of her beauties for the neighbourhood of Kelso and Coldstream. Below Berwick bridge, there is not enough either of trade or tranquillity; it possesses the middle station; neither busy enough nor enough at rest, is dulness. Above bridge, in the fishing season, the scene is beautifully enlivened. Below, some few vessels are moored, but too often the heavy hulks are turned up on the dry sands, with masts unrigged, waiting for trade and tide. Such are dull objects to the eye, and have no other effect upon the spectator than to promote weariness and impatiency.

Over the arm of the sea which breaks upon the bar of Tweed, the lands to the southward are extended for several miles upon the view, varied with the happy colourings which succeed to cultivation; but the distance is so great, that objects are indistinct, and the beauties of the landskip lay in confusion: two often indeed the whole is enveloped in sea vapour.

I cannot take my departure from the banks of Tweed, without passing some few thoughts on the carnage and bloodshed, which for ages rendered them famous to the arms of both the Scotch and English; and to posterity made their history a subject of horror and detestation.

Alberic Bishop of Ostia, being sent as Legate from Pope Innocent II. on his visitation at Carlisle, is said to have taken great pains to remonstrate to the army of King David of Scotland, after the retreat from the battle of Alerton, that they ought to wage war with greater humanity; and prevailed with them so far as to gain the release of the female captives, whom they were carrying as slaves into Scotland. He also obtained their solemn engagement, that in future inroads they would not violate the churches and religious houses; and would also spare from the sword, women, infants, and the aged. These shew to us what were the infamous enormities committed in these expeditions.

The war carried on between the two nations, was as brutal as any in the annals of the Caribbees, or any savages under the sun. The public injuries of states, the policy of empires, the balance of trade, the peace of Europe, or the equilibrium of power, were not the objects of warfare: like the wild Arabs, the estate of the people was that of robbers, rapine and plunder their objects; as if devoid of all religious sense of oaths and moral obligations, the compacts of states, and the ties of honour and moral honesty, they often forsook every principle for plunder, and like barbarians, levied war for the sake of pillaging, of reprisal, and retribution. When the wolves descend the Alps upon the villages, it is the effect of hunger in its extreme; but here the blood of the peasant was shed without any cogency of cause, but the lucre of his herds, flocks, and possessions. The immortal King John burnt, laid waste, and destroyed half the island, from York northward: Alexander in all his glory never exhibited a more noble conflagration. Edward contaminated his honours with many of those atchievements. Torrents of blood have issued from these borders; they were the common charnel of the two nations. Thirty-three thousand souls fled in one day to the gates of eternity, dispatched by the command of Princes, who could not account to heaven what it was they fought for. The petit massacres were equally as inconsiderate; the heroes of those bands walked forth with their adherents, imbruing their hands in human gore, burning and destroying, laying waste towers, towns and villages, and spreading desolation, in the most savage manner, for the reward of savages: reciprocal slaughters, devastations, and cruelties marked both people. When the most valiant atchievements were performed, even in the presence of their Princes, revenge appeared to be the only instigation, and common justice was seldom considered. What was the battle of Allerton, in the reign of Stephen, when David with a mighty slaughter was overthrown, after having ravaged Northumberland and Durham, returning like a disappointed miscreant, with his hands red in the blood of thousands of his band of robbers! William King of Scotland was a prisoner on one of his incursions: he witnessed a cruel slaughter of his people. Our Edward I. slew 60,000 at Falkirk; Edward III. slew his tens of thousands at Hally-down Hill; and Penrith and Durham witnessed to the succeeding destruction made of the Scots in this reign under their unfortunate David, who in the battle at the last-mentioned place was made prisoner. The battles of Otterburn and Flodden Field were upon the same principles as the others.—How doth this retrospection fully the hero, stain the lustre of his arms, and the honour of his valour! yet it is too true such were the conflicts on the borders, and such the arms that waged the inglorious warfare on this once wretched, but now most happy country; at this time abounding with wealth, flowing from peace, by the channels of cultivation, manufactory, and trade: where the brethren of one climate and one island, under the blessed protection of one common father, and a constitution admired and envied by all the world, are acting together in a state of mutual offices, to contribute to the general opulence and felicity.

How baneful and obnoxious is he to the common interests of this now united family, who attempts to sow the seeds of dissatisfaction and jealousy, and through calumnies arising in the venom of malevolence and disappointed ambition endeavours to cultivate contempt and aversion between the brethren of this land! The strength of this, and every nation, is the union of its inhabitants—he who blows up the embers of extinguished feuds, is particularly an enemy to both parties, and a foe to the state at large.

The accession of King James the VI. to the Crown of England, operated powerfully towards the felicity of this part of the island; cultivation immediately took place, the country so often desolated by war, received new inhabitants, who brought with them not only flocks and herds, but also manufactories and commerce: the works effected in peace were soon distinguished, the barren wastes were put under the plough share, towns and hamlets diversified the scene, and increasing population enlivened every valley, which for ages had been marked by works of hostility. Yet it was not till the union of the two kingdoms, that these effects of peace were brought to the happy eminence now discovered on every hand. As to political advantages, it is evident, their discussion comes not within my plan in this work; I am persuaded of their vast importance to both nations: Mrs Macauley says, ‘on very sound principles of policy, the union had been several times rejected by both nations; and which was with great difficulty coerced on the Scots: though as Burnet observes, the advantages which were offered to Scotland, in the whole frame of it, were great and visible. The Scots were to bear less than the fortieth part of the public taxes, and they were to have the eleventh part of the legislature. Trade was to be free all over the island, and to the plantations; private rights were to be preserved; and the judicature and laws of Scotland were still to be continued.’ [*]

‘Whether the security pretended to be obtained by England by this union was worth purchasing at so high a price: whether the union has answered the expectations of those who prophefied that it would be the means of extending the bounds of the British empire, and of enlarging the happiness of its citizens, by cementing in the closest bands of friendship two nations who had ever regarded each other with the eyes of jealousy and aversion, will be differently determined by men, who, from their different connections in both or either countries, have contracted different prejudices; but whether, as the series of these times predicted, it will be attended with consequences no less fatal than the destruction of the laws and constitution of England, the space of a very few years will, in all probability, determine beyond a doubt.’

We passed by the sands to

Notes

*

This objection was removed on renewing some terms of convention, stipulated in the time of Philip's predecessor.—Hoved. p. 796.

What these terms were my author doth not mention.

↵

†
Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 539.
↵

‡
Ibid. p. 293.
↵

*
Colonel George Fenwick of Brinkburn, under parliament, superintended the work. He lays buried in the church, under the following epitaph:
Col. Geo Fenwick of Brenkburn Esq Governour of Berwick In the year 1652 was a principal Instrument of causing this Church to be built And died March 15th 1656 A good man is a public good.

↵

†
Monosterium de Coldingham, in Scotio ditionis Dunelmensis, Berwick in parochia de Coldingham. Unde Dunelmensis ecclesia habet Rectoriam de Berwick.—Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 334.
↵

*

It may be acceptable to the reader to find here a state of the antient Border Laws, as set forth in Ridpath's Border History, collected (as the editor of that work asserts) from a manuscript copy in the Advocates Library in Edinburgh, which differs considerably from the copy of them published by Dr. Nicholson, and is much superior to the mixed Code of Laws in Nicholson's and Burn's History of Cumberland, lately published, in which we are not left to judge for ourselves, but must place an implicit confidence in the compilers for its accuracy and propriety.

About three months before the death of Alexander, (the 2d, King of Scotland) a meeting was held on the Marches of England and Scotland, for ascertaining the laws of those Marches, and enforcing their observation. This work was committed to 12 Knights [*] of each kingdom, under the direction of the Sheriff of Northumberland, for the King of England; and of the Sheriffs of Roxburgh and Berwick, for the King of Scotland; by which Sheriffs the 24 Knights were sworn, to make a faithful inquest and report concerning the laws and customs that regulated the intercourse between the inhabitants on each side of the limit between the kingdoms[†].

I. The first article is, that any subject of Scotland accused of committing in England, homicide or any other crime[*] that ought to be tried by single combat, shall not be obliged to answer in any other place but on the Marches of the two kingdoms; and in this article, the places for the trial of those crimes are fixed [†].

II In the next place it was declared that all who dwelt between Totness in England, and Caithness in Scotland, might agreeably to the customs of both kingdoms, be justly called the Marches to decide their quarrels by combat; excepting the persons of the Kings themselves, and of the Bishops of St. Andrews' and Dunkeld.

III. It was further unanimously declared, that if any vassal or bondsman in Scotland, should with or without his goods, fly into England with the intention of escaping from his Lord; and if within 42 days after, he should be pursued by his Lord's Bailiff, the fugitive should be brought back to Scotland on the oath of the pursuer without any opposition from the English; the same being understood to hold with regard to fugitives from England. But if the fugitive was not pursued before 42 days were elapsed, his Lord could not recover him without a brief from the sovereign of the kingdom where he remained: and on his being discovered there [*] after the expiration of 42 days [†], his Lord might seize him upon giving his own oath, accompanied by the oath of six others.

IV. Moreover it was found, that if any of the rank of a bondsman [*] of the one kingdom had delivered pledges for a debt he owed in the other, he might recover these pledges within thrice 15 days upon finding sureties for payment, one out of each kingdom [†]; and pay the sum itself within 15 days immediately following. But if the sum was not then paid, the creditor might seize the pledge of his debtor, and detain it until he received full satisfaction for the debt owing him. But if the debtor denied his debt, he was obliged to purge himself of it on the Marches within the first succeeding 15 days by the oaths of seven [‡], his own included. And this was also to be understood of the surety when the creditor could not be found, but if he confessed his debt and had no goods wherewith to pay it, he was obliged to declare himself not possessed of goods exceeding the value of five shillings and four-pence; and must further swear, that he will pay the said debt, as he may be able to acquire or gain the means of paying it; reserving only his own sustenance.

V. In the next place they found that all climants on either side, should in person give their oaths in support of their claims with the exception only of the two Kings and their Heirs, and the Bishops of St. Andrews' and Dunkeld. The person who ought to swear in the place of the King of England, was his standard bearer and the constable of his army, on the other hand, the Priest of Wredale [*], was to swear for the King of Scotland and the Bishop of St. Andrews', and the Prior of the Isle for the Bishop of Dunkeld [†].

VI. It was further declared, that no person beside these had a right to depute [*] another, to swear for him in any quarrel touching life or limb, unless such deputation was made with consent of both parties; but without this consent the failure of either in appearing in person to give his oath lost him his cause for ever.
[†]
VII. They next found that if there were any plea on the Marches between a plaintiff and a defendant, that affected life or limbs, and if the defendant happened to die within the 15 days preceding the day of trial, his body should be carried to the Marches at the time, and to the place appointed between the parties; because no man can be essoigned by death. Again, when the appellant delayed his appearance beyond the appointed day, the defendant [*] ought to pass to the Marches and obtain an attestation [†] from three Barons, witnessing that he had regularly made his appearance on the day prefixed; and this being attested by them, he was to be, in all time coming, free from challenge in that case: but if any, or all of these Barons, refused to give testimony of the above fact, he might oblige them to decide the truth of this charge by a combat: and the same rule was to hold with regard to the appellant.

VIII. It was also found that if any Scottish robber stole in England an horse, oxen, or cows, or any other thing, and carried the goods stolen into Scotland, the person whose property they were, wherever he discovered them, might in the Court [*] of the Lords in whose lands he found the stolen goods, and should there recover them by his own oath, and the oath of six persons besides; unless the person possessing the goods, affirms them to be his own, in which case the question must be decided by a combat on the Marches.

IX. The next article fixed was, that in any trial on the Marches that affected life or limb, as for robbery, theft, or murder, where the defendant was convicted by the issue of a combat, his sureties ought not to be answerable for a greater sum than the plaintiff mentioned in his charge. But [*] if a person accused, was convicted of slaying a man, and his sureties were dead, he was obliged to make good the forfeiture [†], if his own money, and that of his sureties, together with the produce of their corns, exposed to sale, were sufficient for that purpose: (the lives of different ranks of men at that time being appretiated) and if the sureties were not dead, and the accused was convicted by combat, all the goods he possessed at the time of attacking him ought to incur forfeiture to the pursuer. But [‡] all such persons ought to purge themselves in the same manner as those who having no sureties, are suffered to go out of prison.

X. It was next declared, that if a malefactor passing from one district or province of the kingdom, into which he had entered into another, desired to obtain protection [*] he should receive it from those having power to grant it, viz. from the Sheriff of the county into which he had entered; and if he could not find the Sheriff, he might obtain peace at the first church, by ringing the bells, and should remain in peace there until protection was granted by the Sheriff; but if before thus obtaining his peace, he was attacked, he might be brought back without any opposition.

XI. It was further agreed, that if any inhabitant of either kingdom affirmed in opposition to a claimant of the other, that a horse, ox, cow, or hog, in his possession, was his own, he should have the usual respite of days established between the kingdoms [*], before the matter was brought to a trial. And on the day fixed for that, if he chose to avoid a combat, and knew that the thing was not his own, he was obliged to bring it to the Marches, and inform the opposite party that he was satisfied upon enquiry, that the horse, &c. was the property of that party, and after this declaration he was bound to drive it into the water of Tweed or Esk; and the defendant should then be free from the claim or challenge brought against him. But if it was drowned before it reached the mid stream of the water [†], the defendant ought according to the custom of the Marches to be still answerable for it; and this extended to an ox, cow, or swine, or other things, only nothing was established about a load [‡].

XII. They further agreed, that no inhabitant [*] of either kingdom could prove his property in any thing possessed by an inhabitant of the other, by witnesses; but solely by the body of a man[†], whence many combats must needs ensue, from the strifes that arose from time to time on the Marches.

XIII. They further agreed, that any person in their kingdom pursuing for the recovery of a debt due to him in the other, ought, according to the laws of the Marches, if the person indebted to him were a Clerk to seek justice [*] from the Clerks, if a Knight from the Knights, and if a Burgess from the Burgesses; by which classes alone judgment [†] is respectively to be given, where their brethren are concerned.

Finally they agreed, that the magistrates within and without Burghs [*], should have power to distrain the inhabitants of each kingdom, in order to inforce the observation of the aforesaid customs between the kingdoms.

↵

*
The names of the English Knights were Robert de Clifford, Robert son of Ralph Robert Mallfant, Robert de Ulfeston, William de Burnville, William de Siremeston. William de Hermanston (alias Herrington) Robert de Glendale (alias Glensdine) Sampson de Coupland, William de Cookpate, Henry son of Godfred (in the translation in Edinburgh Library called Jafreson of Porseweek)—The Scottish Knights were Adam de Earth, Ralph de Borckle (perhaps Bonkle) William de Northinton (alias Morthinton, perhaps Mordington) Robert Bernham Mayor of Berwick, Adam de Morham (alias Norham) Henry son of Waldeve, Henry de Brade, Richard Holkerton (alias Halkerston) Robert de Durham, Aymarde Ensley Adam (alias Alan de Newbiggin).
↵

†
There are only 11 Knights of each kingdom in the foregoing List from Dr. Nicholson's Border Laws. The Sheriff of Northumberland it may be supposed made the 12th in the English List; and the Sheriff of Roxburgh or Berwick, the 12th in the Scottish.
↵

*
In MS. robbery, theft, homicide or any other crime.
↵

†
If the defendant dwelt above Redam, he was to answer at Riding Burn, but Radsdale and Cookdale were to answer at Campespeth, agreeably to the laws and customs used between the kingdoms.
↵

*
In Reg
•
ex quo exiverit (in printed copy) in MS. regno inquo extiterit.

↵

†
An exception is made, nisi fuera nativus (not translated) does it mean that these oaths were unnecessary where the fugitive was a bondsman?
↵

*
Si Nativus aliquis. Nativus is here rendered according to its usual signification in the laws and deeds of that time; but native seems to be the juster term.
↵

†
Namos suos replegiabit per Inbrocht wood et utbrotcht wood MS. Wred) Wred is a surety. Inbrotcht et utbrotcht nativos et extraneos. Not in Nicholson.
↵

‡
Cum septima manu. This interpretation is given upon a presumption that the meaning is the same here, with what is more fully expressed in the conclusion of the former article by these words, per Jurameatum sex Virorum et se septimo, et per sacramentum sex Virorum, et se septimo. In Art. VIII.
↵

*
Wredale (Vallis Doloris, Ford.) is the same with Stow (so Mill is the description of Mellrose.
↵

†
Prior de Insala, probably of Lockleven, where the Convent was governed by a Prior. The head of the Convent at Inchcalm was an Abbot. Spotswood 236, 237. If instead of Dunkeld, Durham is to be read, the Prior de Insula will be the Prior of Holy Island.
↵

*
Facere Attornatum.
↵

†
Ita pro uno solo Defectu.
↵

*
The word defendant is not in the original; but the sense seems necessarily to require its being understood.
↵

†
Accipere Manum de Wardshiel; (Wardshiel (MS. Hame Wardshiel) I do not understand. This seventh is a very obscure article, and it is doubtful if the translation expresses its exact meaning.
↵

*
From this it is probable there were not at that time any Warden Courts.
↵

*
From this to the end of the article, from the MS. in the Advocates Library.
↵

†
Resp••debit die de monteple•. The learned Sir James Foulis of Collington, gave the Editor the following probable meaning of the word montoplen. I take mont•plen to be a contraction for manto plenitudine, a barbarous law term to express the full time of waiting. Manto is a contracted word for mansito the frenquentative of manco, so respen•ebit de manto plenitudine, is, that he shall answer when the full time of waiting is expired, that is, when the legal term comes.
↵

‡
Debout se purgare tanquam exeuntes de Carcere quibus Plegius defuerit.
↵

*
Hebere voluerit Pacem. The article is, si aliquis malefactor existens in una Regione in altera Parte (MS. alteram Partem) regei in quo intravit habere volueris Pacem, &c. perhaps it may be understood of a malefactor passing over the March that divides the counties from one kingdom to the other; and the sense according to this interpretation seems better. Probably the text is corrupt.
↵

*
Habebit Di
•
ti

•

e omnes inter regna Statutes ut ultimas Dies Litis.
↵

†
So rendered in MS. translation mentioned by Dr Nicholson.
↵

‡
De Sar
•••
.

↵

*
Quod cullus de Reg
•
Anglie potest probare aliquam, Rem (aliquiem Reum in printed copy) de Regno Scotiae per Testes (

〈◊〉

•••
verse) nisi tantum
••
do per Corpus Hominis.
↵

†

•
e. By his own body, or that of his champion in combat; a combat of this kind on the Marches was called by a particular name Acra, in a remonstrance of the clergy of England, presented to the Legate Otho in 1237, for procuring redress from the King of several encroachments on their liberties, they complain of an abuse arising from an establishment of the Kings of England and Scotland; by which, not only simple Clerks, but also Abbots and Priors in the diocese of Carlitle, when challenged for any thing by an inhabitant or subject of Scotland, or reciprocally, were compelled to fight with spears and swords, a combat called Aera, on the confines of the two kingdoms, (inter fores utriusque regni) so that the Abbot or Prior of whatever religion or order was obliged either to a personal combat, or to have a champion to combat for him, and if this champion was defeated, the Abbot or Prior was to undergo capital punishment; of which there had been a recent instant in the Prior of Lidely. The clergy supplicated the Legate to admonish, or, if admonitions could not prevail, to employ his Legative authority, to compel the Kings not to suffer so detestable an abuse to be extended to ecclesiastical persons.

↵

*
Clericos inde monere (MS. manare.)
↵

†
Et de illis et non aliis judicari (MS. sic de aliis et non alios judicari.)
↵

*
In Burgh et Out Burgh Potestatem habebunt (MS. in Burgh et in Suth Burgh.)
↵

*

Ex libello quodam, incerti autoris, quem mutuo sumpsi à Domino Monjoro, & erat de origine Scottorum.

Berengus, interfecto Rodrico Domino suo, obtinuit locum habitandi in Brittannio a Mario, et poltea edificavit villam de Berwic.—Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 73.

↵

*

Conjectures on the rise of Borroughs.

From the manuscripts of the late Roger Gale, Esq

Opinions concerning the aboriginal form of human habitations in general, and British in particular, founded upon the word BURROUGHS, by the Rev. Mr Conyers Place of Dorchester.

Burrough and its contraction Burgh (of which also I take Burrow, Barrow, and Bury to be so many corruptions) is an allowed note of the antiquity of the place so called, as well by Cambden himself as those who are the authors of the annotations upon him; nor can there be a more effectual confirmation of that note, than that those old and mother towns that have the privilege of sending members to parliament, are particularly distinguished by that name, and are called Burroughs, or allowed to be so; the whole title of many of them to their present enjoyment of that right in the state of decay they are now reduced to, seems to rest in their claim to that title, and in the respect and veneration which the evidences of antiquity inserted in that name bespeaks for them.

I cannot perceive that the name Burrough or Burgh, was instituted to denote any kind of eminence in the place so called, beyond others, so as to mean a Fort or Castle, or place any way fortified with ramparts, or otherwise distinguished by any peculiar advantages, as is often suggested by Camden; or that the name puts the place called by it under any distinction whatever, unless accidentally, besides that of common habitation, the bare antiquity of which it only implys, because it is often confounded with such appellatives to ascertain and distinguish it, as Burgh Castle, Burgh Fort, &c. and that it signifies no more than house, houses, or a town, a settlement where one or more families dwelt. Burrough was the habitation, and Bour was the inhabitant, hence neighbour i. e. a nigh-bour or one that lived in a Burrough not far off.

But the name Burrough, though at first it directly meant only one common habitation, yet carries in it monumental evidences of the original form of such habitation, and indirectly lets us into that: for our application of the name Burrough, to the habitation of such animals whose natures are incapable of making improvements in their manner of dwelling that is still retained among us, discovers the native and simple signification of the name Burrough, when our ancestors gave their own dwellings that name; for we appropriate it only to the underground lodgings of animals, as to the holes of foxes, badgers, and rabbits. From whence I infer that when it was first applied to human habitation, whether in an allusive sense from them, or their's from it; or whether both were simple and equally original, that it signified the very same, or what nearly resembled the habitations of those creatures, and consequently that the inhabitants of this land, when the name was given, dwelt chiefly underground, and lived not in houses raised from the ground, but in holes dug in it, which sense of the word seems still to obtain as to the dead, though it has lost its native idea as to the living; for hence we may call putting a corpse into a hole underground to bury or burrough it: a barrow or burrough being a place dug for that purpose, though the custom of monumental tumulation has abused the word to express the contrary to what it was instituted to express, and to signify a hill instead of a hole.

Our original Burroughs in the primitive simplicity were but as so many human warrens, consisting of a set of underground caverns; the lodging part and body at least of each dwelling run in, and was underground; and this is but suitable to the savage way of life of the old Britons in other respects; such as their going naked, which alone cuts off all the ends almost of raising houses: for to what end should men raise houses, who had neither cloaths nor furniture, nor wanted any guard against the inclemency of the air, nor had any intent of retirement to answer, but security from wild beasts, or noise whilst they slept? Their painted or rather smoke-bound hides, looked as if they lived in rooms where smoke had no vent by windows or chimneys; to which we may add, as an inducement to natural simplicity, that underground lodgings were both cooler in summer (if our clime is ever too hot) and warmer in winter; for which latter reason 'tis pretty near kept to in Iceland, Lapland, &c. Purchas says of the Icelanders, all their houses are under ground. Lib. 3. ca. 22.

Nor were the inhabitants of this island singular in this matter, so no derogation to them, because it seems to have been Nature's primitive mode of dwelling, common with them to most nations. The various notions of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, of old, that took their names from the custom of living in holes or burroughs, strictly such, is an instance of it: hence it is that the old Giants are represented to us as under-ground livers all of them, as Polyphemus's Cave, Cacus's Den, &c. The rustic Divinities of the heathen, such as Pan, Faunus, the Satyrs, &c. are proposed to us as residing in under-ground seats, and your Sibylls, Trophonius, and the rest of them, made choice of caverns to vent their oracles from, as more awful and venerable by their resemblance of primitive and simple times, when heaven and earth corresponded together more familiarly; and I am apt to think, that the notion of your 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and Terrae Filii, men springing out of the earth, did arise hence; and that a great many suddenly bolting out at once from their burroughs, like the Tinners in Cornwall from their mines, might first give occasion to those fables and fancies, of crops of armed troops starting up from dragons and serpents teeth, to the great surprize of Cadmus and Jason. Ovid reckons men's building houses and living above ground as an improvement, or rather a degeneracy gradually introduced after the golden age, and in process of time

Tum primum subiere domos, domos antra fuere

Et densi frutices, aut junctae ortice virgae.

following to be sure the tracks of history and traditionary chronology, at least from the creation, in this matter.

After the deluge, the terror it had struck, and the fear of its return, made men keep chiefly to the mountains, as the safest: besides that, the plains and flat countries must be all so mixed, and thereby puddled, that a century would scarce harden and settle them again sufficiently for safe and convenient habitation; for till the waters had wrought themselves drains, after such a thorough blend, they must be drawn off very leisurely, and when the fertility of the plains invited them down, the distrust of the floods returning, first put them upon building upwards from the level; of which new project Babel seems to have been the first instance, followed by others built after the same new mode by Nimrod, in the plain of Shinar, nor does it appear that any such thing had been practised before by the antediluvians; and Moses's way of mentioning that piece of architecture does intimate the project to have been entirely new, and that the tower or town of Babel was the first building that men had raised above ground for habitation; for Cain's building of a city may be accounted for by forming a society only, or surrounding the place where he dwelt with trenches, ramparts, or fortifications, such as his fears put him upon, and does not determine it to any mode of building. Digging downward for habitation, both before and long after the flood, appears to have been the common and general practice, and Nature's first genuine method, which men departed from either through distrust or ignorance of God's providence, lest there should be a second deluge; or as the fear of wild beasts, or of each other grown wild or savage, prevailed over Nature's present or more simple recourse for habitation; or as the local inconveniences of the foundering in the natural mould might put them here and there upon artificial walls and roofs; or as suffocating damps or sulphureous steams and exhalations made them continue building upwards as an expedient; or as the nearness of the springs would not permit them to sink houses, but forced them to aboveground habitations: this not being a thing of choice but necessity, a violence offered to natural dictate and disposition, men went no further nor faster into them than just in the simplest manner, to avoid inconvenience that put them upon it, so as to live above ground with as much resemblance still as possible to living under ground; either raising an artificial bank, and then scooping out the earth from the side, for even mud walls were not presently invented, till some superior and happy genius discovered the tempering of the artificial paste, and the use of it now so vulgar and universal, which was once the secret and rarity of the age: however now the prejudices from the reverse of custom, and the modern refinements of artificial dwellings has turned the ideas and very thoughts of subterraneous living within walls, and under roofs of earth, of Nature's disposing, into contempt and ridicule, and we laugh at the simplicity and extream awkwardness of the thing, yet we continue to pay regard to the name, and while we spurn the substance, load the shadow with dignity and pre-eminence, and make it a title of preference to all that culture and elegance of modern architecture that has succeeded it.—All the first settled habitations were caves, nor is it likely there were houses, unless stationary places of defence before, or for some generations after the flood. Had architecture been presently from the creation invented, or been natural, yet it is not likely there were any materials in the first ages to build withall, for they would require considerable time for their generation, there being few stones, and still fewer quarries to be supposed perfectly formed, the rocks requiring ages to bring them to a firmness beyond paste; nor were the mines of metals hastily ripened to a hardness for tools: nor are we sure that woods or timber trees were created mature, or enew to be employed in building, till they had by God's command propagated their several kinds. Brick, therefore, or naked earth, was of necessity, probably, not choice, the first material of architecture, and the only one, which nevertheless must have been unserviceable, had not the natural ex••station of bitumen upon the spot luckily supplied the want of cement, to the first undertakers: for from the creation to the building of the tower of Babel, they had none at all of an artificial sort, 'tis plain from the text, so never had built.

The best therefore that we can suppose of our top British mansions and towns, when the name of borroughs was imposed on them, in the barbarous state the inhabitants were then in, is, that they came up to the •uts of the Hottentots, or Indian Savages, or other uncultivated tribes of men: and if their houses stood above ground, yet they were such congesta culmina •espite, or extempore hovels, as our beggars now but make against banks of the road side; one degree removed from subterranean, if at all: they lived under earth, if not under ground; and indeed what are our houses still, but supplemental caves above ground?

Nor does the antique mode of living under ground seem to have gone off at once, but by degrees by little and little, since it is hardly yet quite worn out: it is but lately that the fashion of ascending to houses has much prevailed, most old houses may be observed to be descended into by steps, and floors laid a good deal below the level, with expence to have them so; which is to be ascribed either to nature, or to a remain of the old British genius and custom of underground living still ••icking in us.

The old pavements of your opus tesselatum, are generally found so low in the ground, that I cannot see how they can be so well supposed to be either so far overgrown, or sunk beneath the surface, but rather to have been designedly at first laid under ground, though by Roman hands, in compliance with the natives' mode of under-ground habitations.

Nor is it an unlikely conjecture, that the vast and various cavities under ground, such as those of the Peak and Wookey or O••ey Hole, near Wells. [These are without doubt natural, and never could be habitable.] and a great many others less famous, may not be all the work of nature, but in great measure the effects of under-ground architecture, by men's cultivating the dispositions of nature: and as they look like the palaces of some old Giants, so they might be the Windsors and Hampton Cour• of their times; when under-ground dwellings were in fashion, and once admired no less for magnificence, than now for prospects of wildness and horror. I know no hypothesis that can account so well for all those odd hollows, sinkings in the ground, and pits that are every where to be met withall, and in some places too many, and too regular to have happened there by chance, [As just by Nottingham.] and yet one cannot imagine that they should have been made there for any purposes above ground, but as they are the manifest foundering in of subterranean caves by length of time, why might they not be the work of men for habitation, when burrough life was in fashion? Abundance of these kinds of large basons I remember when I was a boy in Ripon Common, in Yorkshire, and a great many in a neighbouring Heath, and hard by here, &c. [Dorchester.]

After under-ground living was generally quitted, as to natural and civil life, yet we find how devotion and superstition still loved to keep it on, by under-ground cells, chapels, and oratories: nor is it to the disadvantage of burrough life, that so many of those, of whom the world was not worthy, are said to have dwelt in dens and caves of the earth, some of choice, and others for refuge. Grotius notes on Lot's dwelling in a cave, (Genesis xix. 30.) that Strabo relates there were abundance of caves in that country, which being one of those that were first inhabited, strengthens the thought that they came not there by chance, but were made by the men for habitation, though by change of custom difused; and the abundance of them in all countries that admit of it, confirms the same truth, as to their several aborigines.

That there are fewer burroughs in our lower and flat countries, and part of the nation, tho' otherwise more populous, and better stocked with modern towns, than the hilly parts, may also proceed from their being less commodious for the burrough life then in vogue; which may be one reason why Cornwall has in it more burroughs, in proportion, than any other county, and where the aboriginal inclination to burrough life very remarkably also exemplified itself among the inhabitants, as many of which almost are said to live in burroughs in the old sense of the word, as in those above ground.

The Romans indeed represent the Britons, when they found them, as living in huts of reeds or wood, and their towns as so many woods; but the Britons, who knew themselves best, cannot be supposed, without reason and propriety, to have given a name to their habitations, that speaks them to have been of another nature; against which no foreign testimony can so far prevail, as to make us think otherwise, but that in some period of time or other, either then, before, or since, the inhabitants notions of dwelling were agreeable to what that name expressed, and that considerable dispositions were made actually among themselves accordingly.

The name burrough appears to have travelled hither from Germany and the North, whence we were first peopled, and where a great many of their oldest and most considerable towns carry burgh and burrough in their name; and the thing itself, in the colder climates, as I have hinted, is pretty near kept up to. The infamous custom of incestuous community of wives, which Caesar takes notice of among the Britons, and says they had ten or twelve of them wives together in common, especially brothers with one another, and parents with their children, very well agrees with burrough living; for families cohabiting in one common room together, without partition, and that suited such works of darkness, must of course fall by that means into such unnatural practice; [He must mean Gav••••ed, for by Borrough English the inheritance goes to the youngest child only.] and that sort of odd tenure which they call Burrough English, must as naturally as necessarily arise again from men's having community of wives; for where men could not know which were their own, which others children; it of course drew them into the agreement of letting all fare alike.

The invention of this tenure of Burrough English, has likewise raised a thought in my head concerning the etymology of the name England itself, that falls in with what I have said of burroughs, from an old word still in use in the North, which is angle, and signifies a hole that runs under ground, on the branch of a mine. From the old word that worm takes its name, whose use for baits has given the name of angling when we fish with it, it is not unlikely but the name of England and Angle-land might also come from living in subterraneous caverns, a burrough differing from an angle, as a part from the whole, a house from a town, or one room from a house. If we suppose some of those burroughs, like the cave of Machpelah, double, [Genesis. ch. xxiii. but there is nothing said of its being double there.] that is running in several ways from one common mouth, so that Englishmen, was as much as to say Burroughmen or cavern-livers, the very same as 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which example makes it more likely, and which I think is a much better conjecture than from Angulus, or their living in a corner, or from angling, or from Angelus, the story of the Pope's admiring the English boys; which paultry etymologies yet are thought worthy of a place in our Antiquities. That the name of England or Englishman, [By this argument the Britons could never be called burrough-livers, as he before supposes, since the name of England was unknown till long after the arrival of the Saxons. ] as it is thus of cognate signification, may come from the word angle, which is the same thing almost as burrough, is still more likely from hence, that the Angles or Angle-livers have their original fixed in that same quarter, whence, as has been observed, burrough came, and so the two words give mutually light to one another, and strength to what I have observed; the native force of the one supports the denominative title of the other, and with an equal propriety, had arbitrary custom happened to have made the counter-change of application, the kingdom might have been called Burroughland, and our towns for burroughs, angles.

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*
Collier's Dictionary.
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†
A. D. 1212, Castrum de Berwic captum a Joanne Rege.—Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 281.
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*
Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 7.
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†

A. D. 1296, Edwardus Rex occupat villam de Berwic. Richardus de Cornubia, frater Edmundi comitis Cornub. occisus spiculo in villa de Berwic. Gul. Duglas capitaneus ville de Berwic captus. Edwardus Rex villam de Berwic novo fossato munivit.

Parlamentum apud Berwic in quo fidelitates nobilium Scotiae accepit.—Ibid. vol. 1. p. 180.

Edward got Berwic. There were XXVM and seven C Scottes slayne. At this siege was Sir Richard of Cornewal, a noble Englischman, slayn by a Fleming shoting a quarel owte of the Redde Hall.

King Edwarde let welle enclose Berwik with ditches and waulles.—Ibid. p. 473.

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*
In these instructions there is the following charge against King Edward:—That he had violently seized Baliol's person and kingdom, and compelled his Chancellor to resign his great seal: and after Baliol and his son were sent prisoners to London, he caused letters of resignation to be forged, and afterwards published them to the inhabitants of Scotland, although they never were, nor should be ratified by Baliol.
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†

The oath of fealty then administered:

‘Because we are under the subjection of the thrice noble Prince and our dear Lord, Sire Edward King of England, Lord of Ireland, and Duke of Aquitain, we do faithfully promise for ourselves, and for our heirs, upon pain of body and estate, that we will serve him truly and loyally against all manner of people, that may live and die whenever it shall be required or commanded by our said Lord the King of England or his heirs; that we will hinder him from damage as much as we can, and set upon his enemies with all our forces where ever they may be found. And to the end that we may firmly keep and hold these presents, we do bind ourselves, our heirs, and our goods, and we have sworn to this upon the blessed Evangelists. Besides, all we that are present, and every of us separately, have done homage to our Lord the King of England in these words.’

‘I will be true and loyal and bear true faith and allegiance to Edward King of England and his heirs, and serve him with life and limb, and do him all earthly honour against all manner of people that may live and die; and from henceforth I will not bear arms, nor be aiding in council against him, or against his heirs, on any cause whatsoever So help me God and all the Saints. In witness of these things we have made these letters patent, and sealed them with our seals. Given at Berwick upon Tweed the 28th day of August, in the year of the reign of our said Lord the King of England 24.’

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‡
His stature and strength were gigantic, his aspect and address pleasing and attractive of popularity: he was subtle in devising, and dexterous in the execution of the most adventurous and perilous projects. In an old Poem he is thus described:

Wallace stature of greatness and of height

Was judged thus by discretion of sight,

That saw him both on Cheval and in Weed,

Note: F. I. 6 11¼

Nine quarters large of height he was indeed.

Third part that length in shoulders brode was he;

Right seemly strong and lusty for to see;

In limmes great, with stalwart pace and sound,

His brands hard, with armes long and round;

His hands made right like to a palmeir,

Of man-like, make, with nails long and cleir.

Proportioned fair and long was his visage,

Right sad of speech, and able of courage.

Both breasted high, with sturdy craig and greet,

His lippes round, his nose square and neit.

Burning brown hair on brows and brees light,

Cleir asper eyes like diamonds full bright.

Under his chin, on his left side was seene

(By hurt) a wan, his colour was sangueene.

Wounds he had, in mony divers place,

But fair and whole well keeped was his face.

Of riches als he keept no proper thing,

Gave that he wan, like Alexander the King.

In time of peace meek as a mind should bee,

When war approached the right Hector was hee,

To Scotsmen right and good credence he gave,

But known enemies they could him nought deceive.

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*
Cressingham was a Clergyman, Rector of Ruddeby, Chief Justiciary in York Assize, and Prebendary of many Churches.—He never assumed spiritual Ensigns or Armour, or was habited in the Clerical Garb, but always used the Helmet and Breast-plate, in which be died.
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†
One of the Towers in Berwick Castle, called Hogs Tower, was at this time the prison of Sir William Douglas, where it is said he died.
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*
Redpat
•
's Border hist. p. 229.

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†
Westminster.
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*
Rymer. III. 16.
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†
Ibid. 226.
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*
Lel. Coll.
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†
Malmsbury.
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*

James Duglas, by the helpe of Patrike Counte of March, and Peter Spalding of Berwike got Berwike owt of the Englischmennes handes. But the castel kept a XI wekes after, and then, for lak of vitaile and rescue was gyven up. Then Roger Horseley, the Captain of the castel for the Englischmen, lost one of his yes.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 547.

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*
This differs widely from Leland's account.
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*

Edward Baliol gave up Berwick, Roxburg, Dedinburg, Pebilles, and Dunfres, to King Edward, and promisid to make hym homage for the resideu, after that the hole Englisch Hoste had faught with the Scottes, and had so great a victory of the toune of Berwick, was gyven up to King Edward.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 554.

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*

Smollet, vol. 2. p. 19.

Tyrell says, on expiration of the truce mentioned by Boece and Buchanan, King Edward summoned the town to surrender; to which Seeton replied, he could not consent thereto, as he had assurances of speedy relief. The King insisted on the terms of the truce, by which the surrender was stipulated, and the time was now expired. Seeton still refused, would have prevaricated and argued; which so incensed the King, that by advice of his Council he executed one of Seeton's sons. This act is said to have induced the townsmen whose sons were hostages, to solicit new terms, and additional days for cessation of arms, which King Edward granted.

It does not appear that Seeton's son was an hostage; his name is not in any record of that treaty: but presuming there was a former treaty, which was renewed or prolonged, and of which no record is now in being, this difficulty ceases. Fordun expresly says, King Edward caused Seeton's son Thomas to be executed on a gibbet, in sight of his parents; but agrees with Tyrell, that it was not done till after the time of the treaty was expired.

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Some of the Borderers on the western Marches kept mastiffs or bull-dogs, which were let loose on the ravaging parties —Nicholson and Burn's Hist. West.
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†
Stowe.
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‡
Smollet, v. 2. p. 19.
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*
Barnes, Fordun, Boece, Buchanan, Knighton, &c.
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†

Edwardus 3 debellavit Scottos apud Halidon hille, & occidit in illo Bello 35 Millia & postea cepit castrum de Berwicke —Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 448.

In the VII yere of the reigne of King Edwarde he assembled a great host, and cam to Berwike apon Tweede, and layde siege therto: & to him cam Edward Bailiol, King of Scottes, with a great powre to strenght and hyde him. The Scottes cam owt of Scotland in foure batailles, well armed and araied.

Edward King of England, an Edward King of Scottes, appareiled theyr people yn other iiii batailles, and apon Halydun Hille beside the towne of Berwik, mette these 2 hostes, and there were discomfitid of the Scottes, xxv M and vii C, wher of wer slayne viii Erles, a M and iii C Knightes and Gentilmen. This victorie done, the King returned to the towne of Berwik, & the towne and the castelle were yeldid up to him.—Ibid. p. 9.

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‡
Smollet, &c. &c.
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*

The following papers are in few hands, and as they contain many curious particulars relative to this ransom, it is presumed their insertion will be agreeable to the reader.

A truce of fourteen years between the King of England and Scotland, concluded at London, in May 1369, under the seal of divers Scottish Lords.

Be it known to all, who are present now, and may be hereafter, that the Reverend Fathers in God, William of Saint Andrew, Walter of Glascow, John of Dunkelden, Patrick of Brechin, Chancellor of Scotland, and Walter of Dunblane, Bishops: The Noble and Puissant Lords, Robert Steward of Scotland and Earl of Stratberne, Thomas Earl of Marr, George Earl of March, William Earl of Douglas, John Steward Earl of Carrie, William of Keth Mareschal of Scotland, Archibald of Douglas, Robert of Erskyne, James of Douglas, Walter of Lesley, Walter of Halyburton, Alisaunder of Lyndesay, all Barons and Knights; Mr John Carr Keeper of the Privy Seal of the High Prince the King of Scotland, being deputed by the said Lord the King of Scotland; and other Prelates, Nobles and Lords, deputed by the King of England, have for both of the aforesaid Princes and Lords, the Kings, and for all their kingdoms, lands, counties, territories, and subjects of each side wheresoever they be, by land and by sea, in expectation of a happy peace, stipulated and concluded a just, lawful and stable truce, forbearance, and cessation of war from this present day, till the purification of our Lady next coming, and from thence forward for fourteen years next insuing and fully accomplished.

During which truce there shall no molestation, damage, injury, assault or enterprise be offered on either side, whether by taking of towns, castles, or fortresses: by burning of houses or other things: by taking and detaining of persons: by plundering of cattle and goods; or by any other hostile act whatsoever; but they shall live, converse, and traffick mutually together, freely, and peaceably, without producing any letters of safe-conduct, and without any arrest, disturbance, or interruption altogether in as much amity as they would, and ought to do in the time of an absolute peace; only paying the dues and customs to one King as well as to the other.

And if any thing chance to be attempted, or committed by either King, or their subjects of either part, contrary to the same, it shall duely, and as soon as may be, without any fraud or delay, be repaired, redressed, and made good to the party that shall be injured; the truce for all that remaining in full force and vertue.

And in like manner, during the term of the said truce, neither the King of England, nor of Scotland, nor any of their subjects of either kingdom, nor any of their Lords, may be an ill-wisher, adversary, or enemy: nor shall commit any act of hostility, damage, or injury: neither may they be aiding, comforting, or counselling in England, or in Scotland, or in any place elsewhere, against the Kings and subjects of either kingdom, or of any of their dominions in any manner whatsoever.

And if any of the said subjects do act to the contrary, they shall, in the first place, be required and commanded by way of letter to desist; and, upon neglect thereof, they shall be punished as traytors and rebels, and all their goods be forfeited and confiscated to that King whose subjects they are.

And during the said term, no subject, who may be a rebel, and disobedient to either King, shall be admitted into one kingdom, nor into the other, nor into any of their dominions, whereby he may offer injury and wrong to the said Kings, or to any of their subjects.

And the said King of Scotland, for the remainder of his ransom, shall pay 56,000 marks in gold, or silver of an equal value, to the King of England, or to his heirs or deputies, at Berwick upon Tweed, at Norham, or at Bambourgh, in the space of the foresaid truce.

That is to say, every year 4000 marks, till the whole sum aforesaid shall be paid; whereof the first payment shall commence, in the same manner, as hath been said before, at Candlemas next coming, or within fifteen days after; and so from year to year, till all the foresaid sum of 56,000 marks shall be fully paid, as hath been already said; and afterwards the King, and all the other Lords of Scotland, who stand engaged for the payment of the said remainder, their heirs and successors, shall remain acquitted and discharged by the said King of England, his heirs and successors, and assigns, of all the said ransom, and all other sums, penalties, failures, oaths, obligations covenants promises and defaults, if any chance to be alledged: And of all demands, which may be made by vertue of any obligations by indentures and public instruments, granted and passed to the said King of England, since the time that the said King of Scotland was taken prisoner at the battle of Durham.

And, in particular, of the last obligation by the said King of Scotland, given for the payment of 100,000l. And that same last bond, and all other letters obligatory, indentures, and public instruments shall, upon the last payment, be actually restored and delivered to the Commissioners of the said King of Scotland. And in case that any such writings, relating thereunto, shall be found and appear afterwards, they shall be always looked upon as void and null, and shall loose their force, effect and power, in all points: and shall not be of any benefit, after the said last payment, to the King of England, nor of any damage to the King of Scotland.

It is in like manner stipulated by the Commissioners of the King of England, that the subjects of the King of Scotland shall have, during the said truce, one moiety of the rents and profits of the lands and possessions in the hands of those people, who are under the subjection and obedience of the King of England in the county of Roxburgh; that is, in such manner that those of Scotland, claiming right of inheritance in the said lands and possessions, may enjoy one moiety of the profits; but that all the time of the said truce, the said lands and possessions, together with the persons, in whose hands they are, shall remain, as to the King of England, in the same state, fealty, obedience, and condition, they are in this present day.

And the said lands shall, during the term of the said truce, be farmed out well and faithfully, by the joint consent of both parties concerned, to as much advantage as may be, without any fraud or deceit.

And the said truce shall be proclaimed and published yearly through all the kingdoms, in Ireland, and through all the dominions of both the Kings aforesaid, both on this side and beyond the sea; and upon the delivery of this present treaty under the seals of the Prelates and Lords abovesaid, the said King of England, shall in like manner deliver a counterpart of the same, under the seals of the Honourable Fathers in God William of Winchester Chancellour, John of Ely Treasurer of England, S•mon of London, Adam of Saint Davids, William of Worcester, Bishops: the Noble and Puissant Lords John Duke of Lancaster: Richard of •rundell, Thomas of Be•u•hamp of Warrewick, Robert of Suffolk, and William Montague of Salisbury Earls: Henry Lord Percy, Roger Lord Clifford, William Lord Latimer, Sir Peter Lacy Keeper of the Privy Seal.

All and every of which articles the Prelates and Lords of Scotland have sworn and promised that they will observe, preserve, and fulfil, so far as they do, or may concern them in every individual point, well and faithfully, without frand or deceit; and without saying, or acting any thing tacitely, or expresly, by themselves, or by any other for them, to the contrary.

Concluded and delivered under the Seals of the Prelates and Lords of Scotland aforesaid, at the city of London, in the month of June, and in the year of Grace 1369

- John of Carryk, Secret.

- Alexander of Lyndesay

- Walter de Haliburton

- Walter de Lesley

- James de Douglas

- Robert de Erskyne

- Archihald de Douglas

- William de Keth

- Earl of Carryk

- Earl of Douglas

- Earl of March

- Earl of Marr

- Steward of Scotland

- Dunblain

- Brechen

- Dunkelden

- Glasguen

- St. Andrews

De Obligatione facta Domino Regi per David de Bruys.

A Tresexcellent Prince nostre Treschere & Treshonure Frere Edward, par la grace de Dieu Roi D'engleterre. David par mesme la grace Roi d'Escoce Salutz & dilection; Pur ceo que de votre grace espetiale vous nous avez accorde par vos lettres overtes que de la Some grande des deniers d'argent, la quele nous vous devons paier, a cause de notre deliurance, d'ont nous vous devons paier chescun an quatre Mill marcz ala Chaundeleure a certein lieu. Solone la fourme & l'effect, d'unes lettres Obligatoirs d'arreinment faites Sur la reste de nostre ranceon, que nous duissons paier d'An en An au dit liu quatre Mill marcz a la feste de Seint John le Baptistre, nous promettons loialment, & en paroule de Roie Sacre que nous ferrons le dit paiement d'An en An au lieu accorde a la dite fest de Seint John le Baptistre a voz deputez, tanque a l'enterim paiement de tute la reste de la Somme, que nous vous devons par la cause avantdite; c'estassavoir, de Cinquante & deux mill marcz d'esterlinges le terme de primer paiement; comenceant a la fest de la Nativite de Seint Johan Baptistre, l'an de grace M.CCC.LXXI. Et n'est pas notre volunte n'entention que la dite grace, q'ensi fait, nous avez vous tourne en damage ou prejudice, ne ascun autre a cause de vous ne a les lettres obligatoriez que faitez vous avouns darreinment par la mesme cause; einz volons q elles estoisent & demorent en lour effect, force & fermetee, en touz pontz & articles, horspris Soulement la change des termes avant nomez tout auxi come vous ne nous eussez fait la grace avandite. Don. par tesmoignance de notre Seal Secre a la Cite de Londres le quart jour de Juyn, I'an de grace M.CCC.LXX. Et de nre Roialme Quarantisme.

Rot. Scot. 31 E. 3. M. 1 dors.
Nomina Obsidum de Scotia, viz.

Liverez au Sr. de Percy,

- 1. Jehan Fitz & Heir au Seneschall d'Escoce

- 2. Umfred Fitz & Heir a Roger de Kirkpatrick

Liverez a Alain del Strother, come a Vicount de Northumb.

- 3 Reynard Fitz & Heir Seign Will More

- 4. Gilbert Fitz & Heir Johan Kenedy

- 5. Johan Fitz Johan de Berkclay

Au dit Alain, &c.

- 6. Johan Flemyn Heir au Conte de Wygets

- 7. Johan Fitz Seign. Andrew de Valence

- 8. Patrick Fitz & Heir a Sr. David de Graham—Livere a Mons. Will. de Wessyngton.

- 9. Robt. Fitz Sr Will. de Conyngham—Livere a Rog. Corbet.

a Mons. Rich. Tempest.

- 10 Joh. Fitz & Heir Sr. Joh. Steuard de Dernele

- 11. Rob. Fitz & Heir Sr. Rob. de Danyelston

- 12. Tho. Fitz a Rob. Erskyn a Johan de Coupland.

- 13. Will. Fitz & Heir Sr. Tho. Somervill a Mons. Johan de Evre.

- 14. David Fitz & Heir David de Wemy• a Will. de Strother Mair del Noef-chastell.

- 15. Tho. Fitz & Heir Will. de la Hay de Lockow a Henry de Stro—

- 16. Johan Fitz & Heir Joh. Gray a Mons. Tho. de Gr—

- 17 Item, Johan. Fitz & Heir le Count de Sothirland est Envoe a Loundres devers le Chancellor.

- 18. Item, William Fitz & Heir le Comte de Rossie est malades & le Roi David, & les Evesques de Seint Andrew & de Brethyn, & le Counte de la Marche sont Empris q'il terre Livere au Gardein de Berwick devant Nowel, & s'il soit mort que la prochein Heir au dit Count vendra en son lieu.

- 19. Item, Patrick Fitz & Heir a Mons. Will. de Levynston est baille a Richard Snell Burgeis de Berwick, & le Roi David ad empres—sa bouche & une Lre—de son Sigut q'il serra—& ne elongera.

- 20 Item, Sive Thomas Byset ad Empress que William son Fitz terra a les touz Seintz — du Seigneur d'Manny pur dem—

Rot. Scot. 32 E. 3. M. 6. De denar recipiend & obsidibus admottend.

Rex dilectis & fidelibus Suis Henrico de Percy, Rado de Nevill, & Johanni de Coupeland Custodi Villae Regis Berewici super Twedam, Salutem. Cum, in Tractatu inter Concilium nostrum & quosdam Praelatos Magnates & alios de Scotia super deliberatione David de Bruys Prisonarii nostri pridem habito, concordatum Sit quod Centum Milia marcarum Sterlingorum pro redemptione Praedicti David infra decem annos extunt proximo Sequentes apud Berewycum super Twedam, vel Norham, aut Baumburg, vel London nobis solvant videlt decem Milia martarum de prima solutione ad festum Nativitatis sancti Johannis Baptistae proximo futurum. & residum corumdem Centum milium marcarum ad alios terminos in quadam Indentura inde facta contentos, & quod Johannes Primogenitus & haeres Senescalli Scotiae qui unâ eum quibusdam alijs Magnatibus de Scotia in obsides pro deliberatione praedicti David liberantur, in Custodia vestra, praefatus Henr. Moraretur quous{que} dicta decem milia marcarum plenarie fuerint persoluta, & tunt loco suo veniet Secundo genitus praedicti Senescalli frater ipsius Johannis in obsidem in forma supradicta, & dictus Johannes deliberabitur prout Indenturâ praedictâ plenius continetur.

Nos, de fidelitate & circumspectione vestris plenius confidentes, assignavimus vos conjunctim & divisim ad dicta decem milia marcaraum, de prima solutione praedicta, ad instans festum Nativitatis Sancti Johannis Baptistae apud dicta loca de Berewico, No•ham, vel Baumburgh, nomine nostro, in sterlingis vel in moneta auri in Anglia iam currente recipiendum, & ad Secundo genitum praedicti Senescalli Fratrem praedicti Johannis loco Ipsius Johannis in obsidem admittendum & per vos, praefate Henr. custodiendum; & admisso in vestram securam custodiam ipso Fratre ejusdem Johannis sic in obsidem, & dictis decem Milibus Marcarum vobis persolutis, Sicut predictum est ad praedictum Johannem a prisona, qua sic detinetur, extunc deliberand' juxta vim & effectum Indenturae pradictae.

Et ideo vobis mandamus quod praemissa faciatis in forma predicta. In cujus, &c. Teste Rege apud Westm. viij die Junij.

Rot. 34 Edw. 3. De uno Obsidum David de Bruys deliberando & alio recipiendo.

Rex dilectis & fidelibus suis Henrico de Percy & Radulfo de Nevill Salutem: Cùm nuper, super tractatu deliberationis David de Bruys habito, concordatum fuisset quòd Johannes filius & haeres Senescalli Scotiae, unus obsidum pro dicto David in Comitivâ vestrâ, vel alterius vestrûm, moraretur quous{que} prima solutio decem Milium Marcarum de redemptione dicti David plene fiat, & eâ factâ Filius dicti Senescalli Secundo genitus loco predicti Johannis fratris sui in dictum Regnum nostrum veniet in Obsidem moratur pari formâ, & Statim super adventu dicti Secundo-geniti in ipsum Regnum deliberabitur dictus Johannes, quod{que} quilibet dictorum filiorum predicti Senescalli, qui in Obsidem sic veniet sit ejusdem conditionis, Ita quod nullus corum, nisi pro unicâ solutione dictae redemptionis, obses morabitur, ut est dictum.

Nos volentes dictum tractatum in omnibus observari, vobis mandamus quod cum, per Cancellarium & Thesaurarium nostros certificati fueritis, quod secunda solutio redemptionis praedictae plenariè facta fuerit, & filius dicti Senescalli tertio-genitus in obsidem pro dicto David se intraverit praedictum secundo-genitum, in custodia vestra, sic existentem deliberari faciatis juxta formam Tractatûs praedicti. Volumus enim vos de ipso secundo-genito extunc exonerari.

Test R. apud Westm. xiii. die Junii. Per ipsum Regem & Concilium.

↵

*

Patric of Dunbar Counte of Marche, and Thomas le Seneschal, that caulled hymself Counte of Angus, one and twenty days after thys prepaired themself apon a nighte with scaling laders cumming to Berwick, and with yn VI dayes after tok be assaute one of the stronges toures of Berwik, and enterid the town.

This tydinges was brought to King Edwarde at his very landing at Calays yn to England. Wherfore he taried at his parlament apointed at London but 3 dayes, and with al spede cam to Berwike, and enterid the castel, and then the burgeses tretised with hym, and the toune of Berwik was redelyverid ful sore agayn the Scottes wylle to King Edwarde.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 565.

↵

*
A. D. 1384 castellum de Berwik a Scottis captum, & ab Henrico de Percy comite Northumbr. receptum.—Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 184.
↵

*
Hard. p. 203.
↵

*
The first construction of Cannon, was by iron bars bound together with hoops.
↵

†

A. D. 1505 comes de Northumb. & D. Bardolf fugerunt de Berwick in Scotiam. Rex obsessit castrum de Berwicke & expugnavit & multos in eo captos decollavit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 314.

↵

‡
Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 499.
↵

*
Stowe, p. 432.
↵

*
See an account of the devastations made on this expedition, p. 37.
↵

†
Hayne, p. 127.
↵

*
The town arms, a dog passant by a tree, in fesse point, two escutcheons with the arms of England and France quarterly, tied together by an arch; in chief a King sitting on an arch,' with a scepter in the right hand, and a mound in his left.—Browne Willis.
↵

†

Representatives in Parliament for the Town of Berwick.

Brown Willis says, that the burgesses were summoned to send representatives to parliament, in the latter end of the reign of King Edward IV. From the 17th of King Edward IV. to the First of King Edward VI. the returns are all lost, except an imperfect bundle of the 33d of King Edward VIII.

16 Jan.

1542

King Henry VIII.

33 P. at Westm.

8 Nov.

1547

King Edward VI.

1 P. at Westm.

1 March

1552

7 P. at Westm.

Queen Mary.

5 Oct.

1553

No return

1 P. at Westm.

2 April

1554

George Browne, Odwell Selby, Gentlemen

1 P. at Oxford

Philip and Mary.

12 Nov.

1554

No return

1 & 2 P. at Westm.

21 Oct.

1555

John Bredforth, Charles Wharton

2 & 3 P. at Westm.

20 Jan.

1557

No return

4 & 5 P. at Westm.

Queen Elizabeth.

23 Jan.

1558

No return

1 P. at Westm.

23 Jan.

1562

Anthony Temple, Thomas Norton

5 P. at Westm.

11 Jan.

1571

Valentine Browne, Knight, Henry Cave, Esq

13 P. at Westm.

8 May

1572

Martin Garnet, Gentleman, Robert Newdigate, Esq

14 P. at Westm.

23 Nov.

1585

William Moreton, Thomas Parkinson, Aldermen

27 P. at Westm.

29 Oct.

1586

Valentine Browne, Knight, Thomas Parkinson, Alderman

28 P. at Westm.

4 Feb.

1588

William Moorton, Mayor, William Selby, Esq

31 P. at Westm.

19 Nov.

1592

William Moorton, Mayor, William Selby, Esq

35 P. at Westm.

24 Oct.

1597

William Selby, Thomas Parkinson

39 P. at Westm.

7 Oct.

1601

William Selby, Senior, Esq David Waterhouse, Esq

43 P. at Westm.

King James I.

19 March

1603

William Selby, Knight, Ch. Parkinson, Recorder

1 P. at Westm.

5 April

1614

William Selby, Knight

12 P. at Westm.

30 Jan.

1620

Joh. Selby, Knight, Robson Jackson, Knight

18 P. at Westm.

19 Feb.

1623

Rob. Jackson, Knight, Edward Lively, Gentleman

21 P. at Westm.

King Charles I.

21 Jan.

1625

John Selby, Knight, Rob. Jackson, Knight

1 P. at Westm.

6 Feb.

1625

Rob. Jackson, Knight, Richard Lowther, Esq

1 P. at Westm.

16 March

1628

Edward Lawyer, Knight, Edward Lively, Gentleman

3 P. at Westm.

13 April

1640

Thomas Widdrington, Knight, Hugh Potter, Esq

15 P. at Westm.

3 Nov.

1640

Thomas Widdrington, Knight, Robert Scawin, Esq

16. P. at Westm.

Oliver Cromwell

Convened an assembly called the Little Parliament, but no representatives for Cities or Boroughs, London excepted, were summoned to it.

5 July

1654

Geo. Fenwick of Brenkburn, County of Northumberland

P. at Westm.

3 Sept.

1656

Colonel George Fenwick, Ob. 15 March (1656)

P. at Westm.

Richard Cromwell.

27 Jan.

1658

John Rushworth of Lincolns Inn, Esq

P. at Westm.

George Payler, Esq one of the Commissioners of the Navy

The Convention Parliament.

25 April

1660

Sir Thomas Widdrington, John Rushworth

P. at Westm.

King Charles II.

8 May

1661

Sir Ralph Grey, Sir Thomas Widdrington

13 P. at Westm.

6 March

1678

John Rushworth, Sir Ralph Grey

31 P. at Westm.

21 March

16

John Rushworth, Sir Ralph Grey

P. at Oxford

King James II.

19 May

1685

Philip Bickerstaff, Ralph Widdrington

1 P. at Westm.

The Convention Parliament.

22 Jan.

1688

Francis Blake, Esq Philip Babington, Esq

P. at Westm.

King William and Queen Mary.

20 March

1689

Samuel Ogle,[*] and Francis Blake, Esqrs.

P. at Westm.

King William III.

22 Nov.

1695

Ralph Grey, Samuel Ogle, Esq

7 P. at Westm.

☞ March 9, 1696, The right of election is stated in the report to be in the freemen.

3 Dec.

1698

Sir Francis Blake, Samuel Ogle, Esq

10 P. at Westm.

10 Feb.

1700

Jonathan Hutchinson, Samuel Ogle, Esqrs.

12 P. at Westm.

30 Dec.

1701

Samuel Ogle, Jonathan Hutchinson,* Esqrs.

13 P. at Westm.

Queen Anne.

20 Oct.

1702

Jonathan Hutchinson, Samuel Ogle, Esqrs.

1 P. at Westm.

25 Oct.

1705

Jonathan Hutchinson, Samuel Ogle, Esqrs.

4 P. at Westm.

8 July

1708

Jonathan Hutchinson, Samuel Ogle, Esqrs.

7 P. at Westm.

25 Nov.

1710

William Kerre, Esq [*] Richard Hampden, Esq [†]

9 P. at Westm.

12 Nov.

1713

William Orde, Esq [*] Richard Hampden, Esq

12 P. at Westm.

King George I.

17 March

1714

Grey Neville, Esq [*] John Shute, Esq [†]

1 P. at Westm.

10 May

1722

John Lord Viscount Barrington, Grey Neville, Esq

7 at P. Westm.

Grey Neville, died 24th April, 1723, a new writ 29 April.

William Kerre, Esq in the room of Grey, and Henry Neville Grey, Esq in the room of Barrington expelled.

King George II.

28 Nov.

1727

Joseph Sabine, Esq [*] and George Liddel, Esq

1 P. at Westm.

13 June

1738

George Liddel, Esq [*] Hugh Lord Polwarth[†]

P. at Westm.

Thomas Watson, Esq succeeded to Lord Polwarth's seat, and William Wildman, Barrington Shute, Viscount and Baron Barrington, to Mr Liddel's, by virtue of a writ tested March 6, 1740.

25 Jan.

1741

Lord Viscount Barrington,[*] Thomas Watson, Esq

P. at Westm.

13 May

1747

Thomas Watson, Esq John Delaval, Esq

P. at Westm.

- No. of Burgesses polled 23 April, 1754 476

- Watson 374

- Delaval 307

- John Wilkes, Esq 192

King George III.

5 May

1761

Thomas Watson,[*] Esq Sir John Hussey Delaval, Bart.

1 P. at Westm.

12 May

1768

Sir John Hussey Delaval, Bart. Robert Paris Taylor, Esq Elected on Wednesday 19th October, 1774

8 P. at Westm.

Jacob Wilkinson, Esq Hon. John Vaughan, Esq

P. at Westm.

- Candidates No. polled

- Jacob Wilkinson 452

- Hon. Vaughan 388

- Alexander Campbell, Esq 147

↵

*
Samuel Ogle of South Dissington, County of Northumberland, Esq Commissioner of the Revenue in Ireland. Coll. Per. v. 3. p. 350.
↵

*
Brother of John the First Duke of Roxburgh.
↵

†
Hampden in the County of Bucks.
↵

*
Of Fenham, County of Northumberland.
↵

*
Neville one of the Commissioners for stating the debts due to the army.
↵

†
Shute Barrington, created Viscount Barrington in Ireland, during this Parliament, July 11, 1720, and expelled the house 1723.
↵

*
A Lieutenant General of his Majesty's forces, Governor of Berwick and Holy Island, and Colonel of the royal regiment of Welch Fuzilcers. On his death Hugh Lord Polwarth succeeded to his seat in Parliament.
↵

*
Ob. Oct. 9, 1740.
↵

†
Hugh Lord Polwarth, on the death of his father in 1740, succeeded to the title of Earl of Marchmont.
↵

*
Made one of the Lords of the Admiralty, and a new writ being issued 20 February, 1746, he was re-elected.
↵

*
Ob. 6 January, 1766, Viscount Lisburne succeeded to his seat.
↵

*
Pontage—A contribution towards the maintenance or re-edifying of a bridge. West. 2. Cap. 25. 13 Edward I. Or a toll collected from passengers on bridges for the above purpose. 1 Henry VIII. 29 Elizabeth.
↵

†
Murage—Is a toll or tribute to be levied for the building or repairing of public walls. It is due either by grant or prescription. Co. Inst. 2. It is also construed to be a liberty granted to a town by the Crown, for collecting money towards walling the same. 3 Edward I.
↵

‡
Pannage—The feeding swine on the mast of beech, acorns, &c. in the royal forests.
↵

§
Cranage—The liberty of using a crane on the wharfs of an haven or port.
↵

‖
Lastage—Has various constructions; a right to carry goods in a fair; the ballasting of ships; custom for goods sold by the last.
↵

**
Carncage—A taxation of lands computed by the earnca or oxgang.
↵

††
Kayage—A customary toll for wharfage of merchandize.
↵

‡‡
Vinage—Duty on wine.
↵

§§
Achate and Rechate—Buying and selling provisions, &c. &c.
↵

*
Wallis.
↵

†

Sir John Grey founded here, A. D. 1270, a house of White Friars. Vide Rot. Pat. 11 Edward II. p. 1. m. 14. Quod fratres Carmelitae deserviant in capella regia in castro de Berwic et habeant consuetum stipendium.—Tanner's Not.

South Berwick. David King of Scotland (who died A. D. 1153) is said to have founded in or near this place a Benedictine Nunnery. Tanner's Not. Jun. 6, 1291. Religiosa Mulier Domina Agnes de Berinham Prorissa de Berewico, took the oath of allegiance to King Edward I. in the chapel of the castle of Berwick. Pryn. v. 3. p. 508. Rym. tom. 2. p. 568. Aug. 20. 24 Edward I. 1296. Anneys Prioresse de South Berewyk & le Covent swore fealty to King Edward I. Pryn. v. 3. p. 655.

↵

‡

Leland's Itin.

Leland saith that ‘there was an order here Ordinis S. Trinitatis, but Anthony Bee Bishop of Duresme destroyed it, and then one William Wakefield, master of the house in Berwik, at the defacing it came to Newcastle, and, by the aid of William and Lawrence Acton, brethren there, builded an house of that religion,’ which was afterwards called the Walk Noll. Quere, Bishop Beck died A. D. 1311. and claus. 2 Edward III. m. 16. is ‘pro ministro et fratribus S. Trinitatis pontis Berwici.’—Tanner's Not.

↵

*

These were called Grey Friars, Friars Minors, or Franciscans, so named from their patron St. Francis, born at Spoletum in Italy, (ob. 1226) and canonized by Pope Gregory IX. It was one of the convents of the custody of Newcastle. King Edward III. 13th year of his reign, confirmed to it an allowance of 20 marks yearly, settled on the Friars of this convent by the Kings of Scotland. This gift is declared to be bestowed as a free charity, and a pure alms for the support of these poor Friars. Stephens Mon. p. 25. of the appendix.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

†

In Cl. Rimeri Conventionum, etc. tom. 5. p. 104. Maerdatum R. Edward III. anno regni 13 de solvendo guardiano et fratribus de ordine Minorum de villa de Berewice commorantibus viginti marcas per ann. de firma dictae villae de •l••mosina regnum Scotiae ab antiquo constituta.

Tanner.

↵

‡

These were called Preaching Friars, Black Friars, Jacobine Friars, or Dominicans, so named from St. Dominick their founder, born in Spain. They first came over into England about 1221. R. Mon. p. 396.

Aug 4, 1291, Henry Abb of Abirbrothok, and Sir David de Forthorand, Knt. in the decayed (deserted Ecclesia) church of the Friars Preachers, took the oath of fealty to King Edward I. Pryn, v. 3. p. 512.

↵

§

Frere Will. Mestre de la Meson de S. Austyn de Seggeden, took the oath of fealty to King Edward I. Aug. 20, 1296. Pryn, v. 3. p. 660.

In the escheat rolls of Northumb. 41 Edward III. 1367, there is mention of the Hermitage of Segden, and of an inquiry concerning the lands belonging to it. In the pat. 16 King Henry VI. 1437, the hospital of St. Mary Magdalen is called a free chapel, and Segeden an hermitage, and these are said to be united.

Nicholas Newton custos of the free chapel of St. Mary Magdalen near Berwic, and of the hermitage of Segden annext to it. Pat. 16 King Henry 6.—Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

‖

Rot. Pat. 29 Edward I.—In Rymer, v. 3. p. 786, such an hospital is mentioned as near this town.

In Sancroft's Manuscripts Valor. under Kepyer, near Durham, there is said to have been an hospital near Berwick dependent on Kepyer, to which it paid an annual rent of 20s.

Tanner's Not.

Jon. de Cerve was custos of this hospital 13 King Edward II. A. D. 1319.

Rym. v. 3. p. 786.

↵

*

Published in the Newcastle newspaper, Oct. 20, 1750.

The public Grammar School of Berwick upon Tweed, being vacant by the resignation of the late master, the Guild has determined to fill the employment, by the most deserving man they can find to undertake the charge.

Notice is hereby given, that the said employment will be disposed of on Thursday the 27th of December next, at Berwick, where the candidates are desired at that day, to make their personal appearance.

The corporation being duly sensible of the high importance of the charge, and how much the principles of the society may be corrupted, their morals debauched, and the public peace disturbed, by the jacobitism, bigotry, loose morals, imprudence, or ill temper of the person that is intrusted with their children, at an age susceptible of every impression, desire that whoever is willing to offer themselves as candidates for such employment, may, on or before the 27th of November, send certificates sealed up and enclosed, to the Town Clerk of Berwick, under the hands of gentlemen of probity and knowledge, of their zeal for liberty and the present constitution, their sobriety, moderation, good conduct and temper, as the corporation is resolved to commit that care to the person who shall appear best qualified: and therefore after the attention to their characters in these respects, gentlemen of undoubted honour will be employed to examine into the learning of the persons best recommended.

The master has a commodious dwelling-house and garden; the salary for teaching freemen's children is 60l. per annum, and 10s. a quarter for teaching every unfreeman's child; out of which the master is to provide himself with an usher, at a yearly salary not less than 20l. who is to be approved by the Guild.

↵

*

Lord Marchmont having been pointed at by Historians as being one of those corrupt partizans, who effected the union from sinister views, the following authentic letter in the author's custody, among many state papers found in the cabinet of the late Lord Wharton, will be thought worthy a place here: To which some historical notes, &c. are added.

From the Earl of Marchmont to Lord Wharton.

Nov. 29, 1706. Edinburgh.
MY LORD,

I had the honour of your Lordship's letter of the 31st July last, by the Lord Ross, who did me the kindness to call at my house, on his way to Edinburgh, and gave me the satisfactory account of your Lordship's hearty inclinations to the union, and of your prudent diligence to advance it in the treaty: such as I would have expected from your understanding and parts.

I have been long wishing an opportunity to assist in that design; being convinced that an union of the kingdoms is the only solid way to secure the religion and liberty,[*] to increase the power and significancy of this island, and to establish the peace of it.

I would have written to your Lordship sooner, but delayed till I might observe the motions of our parliament. I had discovered some time ago, that in all corners of the country, endeavours were used to possess the people with fears about it, and great prejudices against it, as if it would bring slavery upon them, destroy the little trade they have, and make them miserable beyond a possibility of remedy;[†] but especially that it would overturn the church government established here, which the people are so addicted to, that they can suffer as much for it, as I think they would for Christianity itself.

Some had influenced the most part of our preachers, to whom the people have great regard, that it is scarcely possible to persuade them to a true notion of the union, or to any good thoughts of it, though there has been much pains taken by others to do it.

When the parliament met, it was easy to find out who had been the somenters of the fears and doubts causing the aversion; and it is evident enough the opposers in parliament have been the authors of very bad impressions upon the clergy and lower people,[‡] yet I am of opinion, that the fancies they have taken up will soon vanish, and will not be the hinderance of concluding a treaty.

Upon the 4th current the house came to a question, ‘Approve the first article of the treaty or not?’—With this provision, that if other articles be not adjusted by the parliament, the agreeing to the first should be of no effect.

The voters present were 199, of which 116 were approvers, 83 were opposers; of these 66 entered their dissent and protested—17 would not join in the dissent, because they differed from the approvers, only in that they were not for putting a question upon the first article, till votes should pass on the 4th, 5th, and some other following articles: and I think, the most part of, if not all the 17, are for an entire union, if the terms please them.

Several very understanding and well affected members find difficulties in some of the articles, whereof they apprehend some to be insuperable, unless they meet with a remedy from the wisdom of England.

Many of the more judicious members are little moved by the cross humour raised among the people, by the pains of ill-designing men, while it is founded only upon speculation, for they think that will vanish. But if the mulitude of the lower people, shall at the beginning feel a sensible prejudice by the execution of any article, then the danger may prove greater among a hot stubborn vulgar, than can well be foreseen.

I cannot yet condescend upon particulars, which I will do when I am able to explain them more distinctly: this I can say in the general, that I am only apprehensive of such things as may universally affect the common people, before they can have much relish of the advantages which certainly will in course be the product and fruit of an union.

In the beginning of this session, those who in the last were called the new party, made up of the Peers and Gentlemen who were laid aside from public employment and the council in the year 1705, and others their friends upon whom they have influence, who have still stuck together, above 24 in number, were suspected that they would go cross to the Ministers: but God be thanked they have not done so, for which they merit esteem and thanks from all who wish well to her Majesty and her kingdoms. They have carried themselves and concurred as persons of honour and understanding, for promoting the common good, without any appearance of resentment towards those now employed. Whereas if they had joined with the opposers of the union, the promoters of it here were not able to carry it through.

As for the protesters, I am confident, the far greater part, if not all of them, are designing to make way for the ST GERMAINS YOUTH, and to divide these kingdoms.[*] They well discern that an union extinguishes all hopes of that sort; and therefore they will certainly embrace any means that can prevent an union. But as the friends to it cannot miss to out-vote the other, if insuperable difficulties of the kind I have mentioned be not found in some of the articles; or if found, be removed or redressed by the prudent assistance of your Lordship, and such as you in your parliament; I doubt not the treaty will be brought to a happy conclusion, which I heartily wish, and wherein I shall labour to be as much assistant here as can be in the power of,

MY LORD,
Your Lordship's most obedient and most humble servant, (Signed) MARCHMONT.

Turn over.

If your Lordship n•eds to write to me, the gentleman who delivers this, has a way to have it brought with certainty to me.

My shaking hand serves me not to write, therefore I make use in this of my son Sir Andrew's.

23 November.
MY LORD,

The difficulties and warm debates which happened in the house, led me to delay the sending my letter, till I could give you this further account.

The 2d, 3d, and 4th articles of the treaty are approved, with the like provision as the first is; but the carrying of these votes was with a great deal of wrangle and contest: even as much upon the 4th (wherein we expected little resistance) as upon any of the former; whereby it is easy to discern the design of the opposers. Yet our greater difficulty is to keep many by whom we must carry our votes, from being misled by the designing opposers, with the subtle pretences they make; so plausible, as are of danger to prevail upon the less understanding sort of well-meaning persons.

The 5th article is this day approved, with this alteration. ‘The Diet is changed from the time of signing the treaty for the union, to the time of ratifying the treaty.’

"I know not how your parliament may like this, but I am hopeful that an affair of so manifold advantages to this island, as an entire union may prove, will not stop upon differences of lesser moment.

What I foresee of this sort, brings to my remembrance a very old treaty betwixt Reheboam and the tribes of Israel; and of the wise advice which the old Counsellors gave him. This similitude halts, as commonly all do; yet I believe your Lordship will find something in it that may be of use.

I shall add no more now, but that I am

Your Lordship's humble servant, (Signed) M. E.

↵

*
The Duke of Hamilton's speech was spirited:
What! shall we in one day give up what our forefathers maintained with their lives and fortunes for many ages? Are here none of the descendants of those worthy patriots, who defended the liberty of their country against all invaders: who assisted the great King Robert Bruce to restore the constitution, and revenge the falsehood of England and usurpation of Pa••ol? Where are the Douglasses and Campbe•ls? Where are the Peers, where are the Barons once the bulwark of the nation? Shall we yield up the sovereignty and independency of our country, when we are commanded by those we represent to preserve the same, and assured of their assistance to support us.

↵

†

The processors were the Duke of Athol, Earl Marshal, Marquis of Annandale, Lord Belhaven, Earl of Buchan, Lockhart of Carnwarth, Sir Walter Stuart, the Earl of Errol, and some of inferior rank.

Those who promoted the union were headed by the Dukes of Queensberry and Argyle, the Earls of Montrose, Seafield, and Stair.

Smollet says, ‘they found means, partly by their promises and partly by corruption, to bring over the Earls of Ro•burgh and Marchment, with the whole squadron who had hitherto been unpropitious to the Court.’

From this letter the reader must entertain a more favourable idea of its author.

↵

‡

Mr Fleming's Voyage to Scotland, printed with Hook's Negotiation, says, ‘The same evening I arrived at Lord Nai•ns, in the county of Perth, who expressed great zeal for the service of the K—; and as I had a letter of the Earl of Errol for him, that he might inform me of the most proper measures to see his brother the Marquis of Athol, he undertook to conduct me to him. We found that Lord in such a temper as we could wish; for five months before he had all his vassals ready to take arms upon the first news o• the K—'s arrival.’

In this collection we have the two following letters.

From the Earl of Errol, Lord High Constable of Scotland.

Stains, 27th May, 1707.
May it please your M—,

The satisfaction which I feel on receiving your M—'s orders, answers to my zeal and hopes, of being one day 〈◊〉 in your service. I have left nothing undone to restore your M—y to the throne of your ancestors; and though our design of doing it by the parliament, has not had the success your faithful subjects wished for, yet the arrival of Colonel Hooke, and his diligence in the execution of his orders, have been so useful, that I hope in consequence thereof, to have the happiness of seeing your M—y in this country; an happiness after which we have so long sighed, to be delivered from oppression. Most of your M—'s friends having left Edinburgh before the arrival of Colonel Hooke, all that we could do was to act in concert, in signing the memorial: and as the memorial is not so ample as some of us could have wished, we have desired the Colonel to supply what is wanting therein, by representing several things, concerning which we have instructed him. He will also inform your M—, how much this nation is generally well affected to your service, and with how much pleasure we shall venture our lives and fortunes for so just a cause. No one will concur more heartily than I, who constantly pray for your M—'s prosperity. I am,

May it please your M—y, Your M—'s most faithful subject, and most obedient, most humble servant, (Signed) ERROL.

Extract of the letter from the Countess of Errol to the Queen of England, May 29th, 1707.

All the delays which we have suffered have not diminished our zeal, though they have prolonged our miseries and misfortunes.

Colonel Hooke has been so well received among us, that he is able to give an exact account of his negotiations, which will not displease your M—.

I confess, that after having waited for him for a long while, our servour began to diminish, in proportion to our hopes; but his prudence and good conduct joined to his indefatigable diligence, has revived our ardor; and he has put our affairs into so good order, that we hope they will come to an happy issue. The present opportunity is looked upon by all as the best that has ever offered, and the last that will offer for a long time.

All ranks of people earnestly demand their K—, and the Scots will certainly return universally and unanimously to their duty towards their lawful S—.

Though the relations of Mr Murray are very considerable, and able to do much for your M—'s service, yet he has not thought proper to promote it in the country, on account of the situation he is in with respect to the government: beside, Colonel Hooke's activity has been such, that he has not stood in need of assistance. However Mr Murray has always been ready to do every thing in his power, and has followed exactly the advice of the Colonel, &c. &c

↵

*
Voltaire speaking of the Tories attempting to replace the Stuart family on the throne of England, is thus noted by his translator Smollet:
We can affirm, on the very best authority, that the Tories never harboured any such design: there might indeed be some Jacobites among them, who secretly entertained notions of that kind, but these they carefully concealed from the party with which they associated. Some too were driven into Jacobitism by hard usage; but the Tories in general had no intention to alter that succession which they themselves had established.

↵

HOLY ISLAND;

the morning was calm, the sea smooth, and the land prospect gilded with the sun; very beautiful, though not much variegated.

The description given of this island (Symeon, p. 87) is to the following purport:
That in circumference it comprehends eight miles, in which was a noble Monastery, famous for its Prelates, (among whom was St. Cuthbert) whose bodies were there deposited, and whose memory would live for ever. It hath the name of Lindisfarn, from a small rivulet called Lindis, which from the opposite continent empties itself into the sea."[*] By Bede it is described, "Qui locus accedente ac recedente reumate, bis quotidiae instar insulae maris circumluitur undis, bis, renudato littore contiguus terrae redditur.
[†]

There is one small farm of cultivated land upon the island, with some few acres of good pasture ground, capable of improvement; and the rest, by the violence of tempests, is covered with sand. The island chiefly consists of one continued plain, inclining to the south-west. The land on which the village stands, rises swiftly from the shore; at the southern point, is a rock of a conical figure, and almost perpendicular, near 60 feet in height, having on its lofty crown a small fortress or castle, which makes at once a grotesque and formidable appearance. I did not observe one tree upon the island.

HOLY ISLAND

The village consists of a few scattered houses, two of which are Inns, the rest chiefly inhabited by fishermen. The shore is excellent for bathing, and the situation at once healthy and romantic: it is surprising it should be so little resorted to. The north and east coasts of the island are formed of perpendicular rocks, the other sides sink by gradual declinations towards the sands. The rock on which the castle stands, is accessible only by a winding pass cut on its southern side: the narrow limits of its crown will not admit of many works, the whole strength consisting of a single battery on the south-east point, mounted with seven or eight guns, which commands the approach to the island from the sea; but would be of little consequence against a ship of any considerable force. The rest of the summit is taken up with a house for the Governor and guard, the walls of which stand on the very brink of the precipice. This fortress, before the use of gunpowder, from its situation appears to have been impregnable, the superstructures being above the reach of any engine, and the rocks too high to be scaled. The antiquity of this castle is not known, but I should presume it is coeval with the abbey, and was used as a place of resort in times of peril, and a stronghold for the religious, whenever they were disturbed in their holy retreat. The present fortifications appear to be the work of the last century. In the military establishment made by Queen Elizabeth for Berwick in 1576, the castle is noted, and a patent for life was granted to Sir William Read as keeper of the fortresses of Holy Island and Farn, with a yearly payment of 362l. 17s. 6d. per annum.

The ingenious Mr Grose gives the following anecdotes relative to this castle:—‘Camden mentions it, so that it is evidently as old as his time. Probably it has been the scene of very few remarkable events: history being nearly as silent with respect to them, as concerning its origin. The first time it occurs, is in the history of the civil war in the time of Charles I. when it appears to have been seized for the Parliament; and according to Rushworth, in an order of the House of Commons, May 7th, 1646, for sending forces thither, this reason is assigned, "it being of such consequence to the northern parts of the kingdom. Probably this consequence arose, more for the convenience of its harbour, than the strength of the castle."’

‘In the year 1647, one Captain Batton was Governor of the island, for the Parliament; to whom Sir Marmaduke Langdale, after the taking of Berwick, wrote the following letter, but without success. The letter, together with the Captain's refusal, were transmitted to the House of Commons, for which they voted their thanks to Captain Batton, and that he should be continued Governor of the place.’

Sir, you have the good opinion of the counties to be a sober discreet man amongst them, which emboldeneth me, a stranger to you, to propose (that which every man in his duty to God and the King ought to perform) the veil of these horrid designs plotted by some, that men may run and read the misery and thraldom they intend upon the whole nation. It is believed by many that know you, that you are sensible of the imprisonment of his Majesty, and the violation of all our laws. If you please to consider the ends being changed, perhaps for which you first engaged, and comply with the King's interest, by keeping the fort now in possession for the King's use; I will engage myself to see all the arrears due to yourself and the soldiers duly paid, and to procure his Majesty's favour for the future: and that I only may receive some satisfaction from you, that this motion is as really accepted as intended by

Your humble servant, MARMADUKE LANGDALE.
Berwick, April 30th, 1647.

‘Holy Island does not appear ever to have fallen into the hands of the Royalists; for it continued in the possession of the Parliamentarians anno. 1648; when it was (as may be seen in Rushworth) relieved with necessaries by Colonel Fenwick's horse and some dragoons. From that time nothing memorable seems to have been transacted here, till the rebellion in the year 1715, when the seizure of this castle was planned and performed by two men only. In which exploit, such policy and courage were exerted, as would have done them much honour, had they been employed in a better cause. The following particulars of the story were communicated by a Gentleman whose father was an eye-witness to the facts, and well knew both the parties.’

‘One Lancelot Errington, a man of an ancient and respectable family in Northumberland, and of a bold and enterprizing spirit, entered into a conspiracy for seizing this castle for the Pretender; in which it is said, he was promised assistance not only by Mr Forster, the rebel General then in arms, but also by the masters of several French privateers. At this time the garrison consisted of a serjeant, a corporal, and 10 or 12 men only. In order to put this scheme in execution, being well known in that country, he went to the castle, and after some discourse with the serjeant, invited him and the rest of the men, who were not immediately on duty, to partake of a treat on board of the ship of which he was master, then lying in the harbour: this being unsuspectingly accepted of, he so well plied his guests with brandy, that they were soon incapable of any opposition. These men being thus secured, he made some pretence for going on shore; and with Mark Errington his nephew, returning again to the castle, they knocked down the centinel, surprized and turned out an old gunner, the corporal, and two other soldiers, being the remainder of the garrison, and shutting the gates, hoisted the Pretender's colours as a signal of their success, anxiously expecting the promised succours. No reinforcement coming, but on the contrary a party of the King's troops arriving from Berwick, they were obliged to retreat over the walls of the castle, among the rocks, hoping to conceal themselves under the sea weeds till it was dark, and then by swimming to the main land, to make their escape: but the tide rising, they were obliged to swim, when the soldiers firing at Lancelot as he was climbing up a rock, wounded him in the thigh. Thus disabled, he and his nephew were taken and conveyed to Berwick gaol, where they continued till his wound was cured. During this time he had digged a burrow quite under the foundations of the prison, depositing the earth taken out in an old oven. Through this burrow he and his nephew, with divers other prisoners, escaped; but most of the latter were soon after taken. The two Erringtons however had the good fortune to make their way to the Tweedside, where they found the custom-house boat; they rowed themselves over, and afterwards turned it adrift. From thence they pursued their journey to Bambrough Castle, near which they were concealed nine days in a peastack; a relation who resided in the castle supplying them with provision. At length travelling in the night by secret paths, they reached Gateshead House, near Newcastle, where they were secreted till they procured a passage from Sunderland to France. A reward of 500l. was now offered to any one who would apprehend them; notwithstanding which, Lancelot was so daring as soon after to come into England, and even to visit some of his friends in Newgate. After the suppression of the rebellion, when every thing was quiet, he and his nephew took the benefit of the general pardon, and returned to Newcastle, where he died about the year 1746, as it is said, of grief at the victory of Culloden.’

The remains of the old abbey in the next place require my attention; such parts of this cathedral are standing as give a perfect idea of its original form and appearance. The monastery is in ragged ruins, and not worthy to be delineated, the walls having been robbed for the buildings in the village, and the erection of the present parochial church.

It is said by some authors, that the monastery was built by St. Cuthbert of a plain model, without ornament, and enclosed with a high wall, in order that outward objects might not withdraw the attention of the society from their divine contemplations.

In Mr West's Antiquities of Furness Abbey, we have this short account of the rise and origin of Monastic Orders. ‘Soon after the christian religion had made some considerable progress in the east, the policy of the Roman empire exposed the professors of it to many and great inconveniencies, and a succession of bloody persecutions: the two last under Decius and Dioclesian more especially obliged many to betake themselves to mountains, deserts, and solitary places, to secure themselves from the unrelenting fury of these bloody tyrants: there they found a safe retreat, with time and liberty to give themselves up to the exercises of piety and divine contemplation, in a course of most rigorous mortifications, and preternatural austerities. This kind of life, which necessity gave rise to, was afterwards in the time of the Christian Emperors, embraced through choice; and Pacomius about the middle of the 4th century, committed to writing rules for regular societies, and founded some monasteries in the environs of Thebes in Egypt.’

‘The introduction of Monks into England, is spoken of as a master-piece of policy in the court of Rome, as endeavouring thereby to secure her authority by an increase of property, which would arise to her by the pious donations and offerings of the faithful, and the founding of many religious houses, to be occupied by such as were, from the nature of their institute, attached to the Holy See, and might occasionally serve every purpose of spiritual tyranny. And it is alledged, that the Monks by the austerity of their religion and morals fascinated the minds of the people, and by their pretension to extraordinary sanctity, secured a submission to all their decisions, and an implicit obedience to all their doctrines. This is a heavy charge, and if well grounded, should have prevented the monastic rule from ever taking effect in any kingdom, or occasioned its ruin as soon as the discovery was made, or the charge formed.’

This he obviates, by monasteries being established here before Austin's time; and takes for his authorities Gildas and Bede, as to their being schools of christian learning. He adds, ‘in all this, we hear nothing of foreign connections, of sinister inventions, or hypocrisy.’

The Roman Pontiff knew how to draw from the circumstances of William's afrairs, advantages which the Conqueror never intended; and which his immediate successors could not prevent, as they were equally or more obliged to the church for her support, than he himself had been. The foreign Ecclesiastics which the Norman King
LINDISFARN N. Aspect

introduced, readily gave up the liberty of a country, to which they were strangers, and a happiness the sweets whereof they had never known: but from that consequence, of which the Conqueror and his sons had made them, they soon became sensible of ther own importance; the foreign Monks, from the great property conferred upon them, soon found of what weight they were in the scale of government, and readily turned it to their own advantages, as occasion offered.

‘The introduction, therefore, of so many new orders of Monks into England by the Norman Kings, was according to their own policy, and not that of the Court of Rome.’—He then takes occasion to mention the good offices of the church in favour of the Conqueror's younger sons, and the Earl of Moreton and King John.

‘The Court of Rome could have no direct hand in all this; and the monastick institute, of its own nature, can have no part in either a civil or a spiritual tyranny, unless where perverted; as the best of institutes may have been, by the malice of men.’—I have been led to lengthen the quotation beyond the bounds I at first intended, to shew with what arguments this subtle author, and other writers of the like class, can put a plausible countenance on facts, which reflected dishonour on the See of Rome. But to return from this digression.

The cathedral is in the form of a cross, the east and west limbs of which are yet standing, the other parts totally in ruins, and almost level with the ground. The order of building in this structure is rude and heavy, and most of it in the worst mode of the early Saxon architecture. Mr Grose says, ‘probably it was the work of different periods; great part of it seems very ancient, the arches being circular, and the columns very massy and much like those at Durham, but richer. On the north and south walls there are pointed arches, which proves that part of it at least was built since the reign of Henry II.’ The pillars on which the arches rise in the center of the cross are clustered and plain capitalled, each forming the corner of the great tower; these arches are of few members. There are two side ailes, the columns of which are heavy, and the arches circular: the windows are narrow, and ornamented with a corner pilaster, and a moulding of few members: the walls are very thick, and every part wears a gloomy countenance. The south wall of the middle tower is standing about 50 feet high; and one corner tower on the west end of the church remains perfect.[*] These ruins retain at this day one most singular beauty, the tower has not formed a lanthorn, as in most cathedrals; but from the angles, arches sprang, crossing each other diagonally, to form a canopy roof. One of those arches yet remains, unloaded with any superstructure, supported by the south-east and north-west corner pillars, and ornamented with the dancette or zig-zag moulding, much used in old Saxon architecture, extending a fine bow over the chasm and heap of ruins occasioned by the falling-in of the ailes. The whole structure is composed of a soft red free-stone, which yields much to time, and renders the aspect of the building dark and melancholy. Mr Grose's account comprehends the following particulars:

‘Various fragments of the offices of this monastery are still standing, and foundations of buildings are scattered over a close of near four acres; the main walls of the church on the north and south sides are still standing, though much out of the perpendicular; inclining outwards so considerably, as to make the horizontal distance between them, at the top, exceed, by near two feet, that at the bottom. Another winter or two seems to be the utmost they can stand.’

‘This building consists of a body and two side ailes, into which it is divided by a double row of very solid columns, whose shafts are richly ornamented. Each row has five columns of four different constructions, and two pilasters in the walls on the east and west ends. The shafts of these columns are about 12 feet high, their diameters about five, their capitals and pedestals are plain, they support circular arches, having over each arch two ranges of windows; the lowest large and in pairs, separated only by a short column; the upper small and single. The length of the building is about 138 feet, the breadth of the body 18 feet, and that of the two side ailes about nine feet each.’

The prospect from this island is beautiful; to the northward you command the town of Berwick, over an arm of the sea about seven miles in breadth: at nearly the same distance you view Bambrough Castle, on a bold promontory, towards the south: on the one hand you have a view of the open sea, at the time of our observation calm and resplendent, and scattered over with vessels; and on the other hand a narrow channel, by which the land is insulated, about two miles in width; the distant shore exhibits a beautiful hanging landskip of cultivated country, graced with a multitude of cottages, villages, and woodlands.

This island became the seat of Episcopacy early in the aera of conversion: the Northumbrians received the christian doctrine much sooner than some of the southern provinces of Britain. Oswald King of Northumberland,
[*]
in the second year of his reign, and in the year of our Lord 635,[†] founded the Bishopric of Lindisfarn, the proper name of this island, as before observed.

The succession of Bishops was as follows.[‡]

EPISCOPUS I.

Aidan, of Scotch extraction,[§] an excellent Pastor, to whom is attributed the conversion of many of the Saxons. The King frequently officiated as interpreter of this Prelate's doctrines, to an audience who knew not his dialect.[*] The venerable Bede speaks thus honourably of him: ‘Ut multa, inquit breviter, comprehendam, quantum ab eis, qui illum novere didicimus, nichil ex omnibus quae in Evangelicis sive Apostolicis, sive Propheticis litteris facienda cognoverat praeter mittere, sed cuncta pro suis viribus operibus explere curabat.’ According to the above author, he was a Monk of the Isle Hii, otherwise called by him Hydestinate, whose convent was said to be founded by Columbus. What greatly contributed to the prevalence of his doctrines, was his exemplary life, which strictly corresponded with the rules he prescribed:[†] he was constantly employed in preaching, to which end he travelled much, and seldom on horseback.

Oswald, some few years after these pious works, was slain,[‡] and canonized. Aidan held the Bishopric 17 years, and died, it is said, through grief for the loss of his royal patron, A. D. 651:[§] his spirit ascended to heaven, where the future Saint, the elected Cuthbert, who was promised to the faithful, as he tended his sheep on the hills near the river Leder, in a holy vision, beheld him in his celestial glory; and from thenceforth vowing a life of sanctity, entered the monastery of Mailross, under the Abbot Eata. [*]

EPISCOPUS II.

Finan, in the year 651, succeeded Aidan in this Bishopric: he was a Scotchman, and member of the same society with his predecessor.[*] He built a church on the island, which according to the fashion which prevailed in Scotland in those days, was constructed of beams and planks of oak covered with reeds. Archbishop Theodore, some time after this building was compleated, dedicated it to St. Peter. Eadbert, a succeeding Bishop, improved or rather rebuilt the church, and covered it with lead.[†] Pope Gregory commanded Finan to remove his See to York; but the mode of government established in the Eastern churches, was the only ecclesiastical rule which he had adopted, and consequently the Papal supremacy was denied, and the command unobserved. This Bishop baptized two royal converts, Penda [*] the Mercian King, and Segbert King of the East Angles. He ordained Bishops to attend the initiated, who in consequence of the example of the Princes, and from the influence of their own doctrines, converted multitudes. Finan was Bishop ten years, and died in the year 661.

EPISCOPUS III.

He was succeeded by Colmannus, [†] who also came to this See from Scotland: [‡] he held it only for three years, being disgusted at the part which King Oswy took, touching the affairs of church government, in which he coincided with the Romish maxims.[§] Thirty English, and all his countrymen who adhered to his tenets, left the island when he departed, and accompanied him to Scotland.‖ He carried with him some of the remains of Aidan, as holy relics, leaving the rest in the church of Holy Island, which afterwards, it is said, were by the order of King Edmund, whilst on his northern expedition, removed to Glastonbury.[*]

EPISCOPUS IV.

Tuda then became Bishop, being the first of this See who adhered to the modes and principles of Rome: he was educated in the western parts of Scotland,[†] and it is said came into England with Colmannus. He held the Bishopric a very short time, being carried off by a pestilence which then raged in Northumberland.[‡] Bede's remarks on the succession of Scotch Bishops ending in Tuda, are too honourable to be omitted observation here. Their frugality, simplicity of life, and parsimony appeared in the place of their residence, in which there was nothing unnecessary, or unadapted to the simplest accommodation: in the church only magnificence was permitted. Their possessions consisted chiefly in cattle, for money was no longer retained than till a fit opportunity offered to distribute it to the poor. Places of entertainment for Potentates and Princes were unnecessary, for they were visited only for their doctrines and the holy offices of the church. The King himself, when he came thither from his royal residence, had no other object in view than to partake of the rites of religion, and departed immediately after the service: if perchance he took refreshment, it was of the common fare of the Monks. The attention of these Pastors was on spiritual matters only; temporal affairs were deemed derogatory of their holy appointment; and thence arose the high veneration which was paid by all ranks of people to the religious habit. When any Ecclesiastic went from his monastery, it was to preach the word of salvation, and he was every where received with joy, as a messenger of the Divinity: on the road, the passengers bowed the head to receive the sign of the cross and his benediction, with pious reverence noting his precepts, as documents of the most salutary purport: the churches were crowded with a devout audience, and when a Monk was seen entering a village on his travels, the inhabitants flocked about him, entreating for his admonitions and prayers. On their visitations, riches and donations were not their pursuit; when a religious society received any augmentation of the revenues of the house, it was through compassion by the donor, and they accepted it as an additional store with which they were entrusted for the benefit of the poor.

EPISCOPUS V.

Chad was his successor, by the title of Bishop of York, at the nomination of King Alfred. He was a man of great humility, and without ambition. He received two consecrations, one during the vacancy of the See of Canterbury, and the other by Theodore, at York. At the instance of Oswy and Alfred he resigned his Bishopric in favour of Wilfred.

EPISCOPUS VI.

Wilfred was the preceptor of King Alfred; [*] he was a Northumbrian by birth, and received his education at Lindisfarn: being recommended by Queen Eanfleda to a Nobleman called Cudda, who retired to this monastery, he attended him thither as his companion, and continued there from the 14th to the 18th year of his age. During this Prelate's episcopacy there happened great revolutions and changes in the See of Lindisfarn; the death of King Oswy was only a part of the calamities which fell upon Northumberland in his time: Egfrid not only obtained the throne of the deceased Sovereign, but by his powerful interest and efforts deposed Alfred, assuming the second scepter, and uniting the whole in one sovereignty. Wilfred was a proud aspiring man, and debased the pall of the Prelate with ambition. He became obnoxious to Theodore, who determined to humble him, and in a short time got his deposition effected. Theodore had great interest with Egfrid, which he used on this occasion, to gratify his malice and resentment; and under that ordinary craft of Ecclesiastics, a specious pretence for the advancement of religion and the honour of the church, he obtained the royal mandate to divide the kingdom of Northumberland into two dioceses, on a presumption that one Bishop had too much power and authority. This ancient diocese then underwent a severance, and the two parts were distinguished by the names of York and Lindisfarn: that of York comprehending the district of Deira, and Lindisfarn that of Bernicia. The adopted supremacy of Rome, gave opportunity for appeal, and Wilfred, burning with resentment and disappointed ambition, fled thither, where a chapter being readily obtained, he returned with the Pope's resolution in form for his restoration. Big with the supreme mandate, he obtruded himself abruptly on the royal presence; but to his great mortification, found the King exasperated at his insolence and impudent appeal: not being the vassal of the See of Rome, he professed his contempt of its commands, reproached Wilfred for having procured his credentials by bribery, and as a presumptuous offender against the royal dignity, he cast him into prison. His lamentable situation excited the intercession of the devout Ebba, [*] aunt to the King, who obtained his liberty with an injunction, that he never afterwards should enter the kingdom of Northumberland. After his release, Wilfred became a member of the monastery of Glastonbury, under the then Abbot Berthwald, of the royal house of Mercians; but Egfrid's wrath and resentment was not subsided, he continued his persecution of him even in his retreat, and obtained his expulsion from that house. He then fled to the court of Adelwack King of Sussex, whose subjects were just receiving the light of conversion, and that King gave him a Bishopric called Selsey. Upon Egfrid's demise, the crown of Northumberland devolved upon Alfred; and Theodore declining in health and strength, as he approached the grave in the steps of old age, grew anxious to acquit or relieve his conscience of the severities he had exercised against Wilfred, sought to gain his friendship, and by his interest with the Crown and earnest solicitations, obtained his restoration to the See of York. Wilfred had no sooner reassumed his ecclesiastical dignity, than his ungovernable ambition and arrogance blazed out anew: the See of York, at his first assumption of the episcopal dignity, held in unity the kingdom of Northumberland; at his restoration it was dismembered by a triple severance, by the disunition of Lindisfarn and the new constitution of Hexham. Wilfred made injudicious pretensions and claims to effect a reunion, which so exasperated the King, and was a thing so inconsistent with the politics of the times, that he was again expelled, and obliged to fly the realm. He now sought refuge in the court of Mercia, where he won upon the ear of Etheldred, and gained from him the Bishopric of Leicester. Adversity is said to be the school of wisdom, but it proved not so with Wilfred; for in this new institution he conducted himself with that insolence and impropriety, that he soon incurred the displeasure of the Mercian King and the Archbishop of Canterbury, who brought him to trial before a synod, and deposed him. He was now 70 years of age, and yet his powers were so little debilitated, and his passions remained so warm, that he again journeyed to Rome, and in spite of the character of a turbulent and contentious Prelate, which he carried with him, obtained a decree for his restoration. He returned a second time with the powers of Rome in his favour, and at a more favourable season to obtain the rewards of his labour. The Archbishop found it convenient at that time to adhere to the mandate of supremacy; the Mercian King had fallen into a state of enthusiasm, and assumed the habit of a Monk; the King of Northumberland was under the attacks of a dangerous disease, and feeling compunctions for the sufferings Wilfred had undergone, became reconciled to him. Appearances were now much in the Prelate's favour, and the propitious hour seemed to await him, but Fate snatched off Alfred before a restoration was effected. He obtained a council to be held upon the banks of the river Nidd, under the mandate of King Osred, Alfred's successor, where with great difficulty he gained the Bishoprick of Hexham, a small and modern member of his former See.

EPISCOPUS VII.

When the severance of Bernicia and Deira again took place, Eata was Bishop of Lindisfarn: [*] he was one of the pupils of Aidan, who lived to see him his successor in the Abbacy of Mailross. About the year 664,[†] Eata left Mailross to receive the Episcopacy of Lindisfarn, which he possessed for many years, tho' not entire; for during his time the Bishopric of Hexham was instituted, and a portion of the See of Lindisfarn severed for the new appropriation. Eata fell into the opposition of Theodore, and denied his jurisdiction as Metropolitan over the northern churches. Theodore was a powerful adversary, and held abundance of resentment when his pride was wounded. He caused the convention of a chapter of Bishops to be held on the Banks of Aln, A. D. 684, when Eata was deposed.[*] On this event Cuthbert was elected to Lindisfarn, and Eata was translated to Hexham; Theodore not presuming to carry his resentment to so high a pitch, as entirely to degrade him.[†]

EPISCOPUS VIII.

Cuthbert, from whose piety and exemplary life the church derived great honour as well as riches, calls for particular attention. The cloister of Mailross was honoured with his initiation to a religious life, the pious Eata was his preceptor, and induced him to become a member of the house of Lindisfarn. [‡] A happy vision which had been revealed to Cuthbert, [§] whilst he tended his flocks on the mountains, first warmed his mind with that religious fervour which prompted him to a monastic life. He was received into the fraternity of Mailross at an early age, possessing a graceful person,
[*]
an emphatic and clear expression, poignant wit and eloquence, and engaging manners: with such natural advantages, it is not to be wondered that his doctrines were persuasive, or rather irresistible. For twelve years he governed the priory of Lindisfarn, where he lived an exemplary life for piety and self-denial, and never ceased his exhortations to religion and virtue, frequently taking journies into the desert and mountainous parts of the country, to instruct and convert the most barbarous of the inhabitants. At length conceiving that the luxury or ease of a monastic life afforded too selfish enjoyments, to allow his spirit due attendance on contemplations and the service of the Deity, he retired from Lindisfarn, and commenced the life of an Anchorite, in the largest of the Farne Islands, laying opposite to Bambrough, and within sight of Lindisfarn, being distant from thence about two leagues.[*] He built a cell with a small oratory, and surrounded it with a wall, which cut off the view of every object but heaven.
[†]
He could not have chosen a place better adapted to a life of mortification and severity than this island; the ancient description of it is horrible, seated near a stormy coast, surrounded by rocks, over which the sea breaks incessantly with great tumult, destitute of fresh water, without tree for shelter, or fruit-bearing shrub, or where withal to sustain human life; and worse than all, said to be possessed by devils.[‡] But the happy and miraculous change which took place, on Cuthbert's taking up his solitary residence there, is too singular to escape observation:[§] the flinty rock bubbled with fountains of fresh water, the once barren soil with prolific abundance brought forth grain,‖ trees and shrubs bearing fruit decked the smiling shores, the troubled waters clapped their hands for joy, the plains assumed a mantle of green embroidered with flowers, the evil spirits were bound in eternal darkness, and angels of light communed with the Anchorite. Such are the records of the religious of those ages.[*] Credis huic quod dicat?

This life of severity excited the reverence and admiration of those ages of ignorance. Whether enthusiasm alone could determine the human mind to such undertakings, or there was a degree of pride mixed in the influenza, I cannnot determine. The vices of those times, I presume, were not attended with such degrees of despair as are unknown to us; the inducements must have been more complicated than the outward countenance of piety expressed. How different the manners of the religious of the same church in modern times. ‘An ambitious or hypocritical religious, who makes a profession of humility, whilst he is puffed up with pride; a man meanly clad, and who only seeks after riches; a pretender to devotion, who gives himself out as a servant of God, while he is no more than a slave to his passions, is a monster both in church and state.’—‘Every intriguing Monk or Friar, who thrusts himself into families, for the purpose of prying into secrets, regulating marriages or wills, is as despicable as he is dangerous.’— These are the liberal sentiments of the immortal Ganganelli, Pope Clement XIV. whose works have placed the Romish church in a more amiable point of view, than it has appeared in several past ages.

I have frequently ruminated on man's several affections, and this severity of St. Cuthbert's restores to my memory some distant ideas. I have always considered Friendship as comprehending the most excellent feelings of the human heart: how a social and generous-minded man could live without the enjoyment of friendship, and totally withdraw himself from all attachments with the world, is to me truly a severity little to be comprehended. I presume the Saint must have held the very argument Mr Hume [*] adopts to account for the austerities of superstitious men. ‘Nor is it satisfactory to say, that the practice of morality is more difficult than that of superstition; and is therefore rejected. For, not to mention the excessive pennances of the Bachman's and Talaponis; it is certain, that the Rhamadan of the Turks, during which the poor wretches, for many days, often in the hottest months of the year, and in some of the hottest climates in the world, remain without eating or drinking from the rising to the setting sun; this Rhamadan, I say, must be more severe than the practice of any moral duty, even to the most vicious and depraved of mankind. The four Lents of the Muscovites, and the austeries of some Roman Catholicks, appear more disagreeable than meekness and benevolence. ’

‘Perhaps, the following account may be received as a true solution of the difficulty. The duties which a man performs as a friend or parent, seem meerly owing to his benefactor or children; nor can he be wanting to these duties, without breaking through all the ties of nature and morality. A strong inclination may prompt him to the performance: a sentiment of order and moral obligation joins its force to these natural ties: and the whole man is truly virtuous, is drawn to his duty, without any effort or endeavour. Even with regard to the virtues, which are more austere, and more founded on reflection, such as public spirit, filial duty, temperance, or integrity; the moral obligation, in our apprehension, remove all pretension to religious merit; and the virtuous conduct is deemed no more, than what we owe to society and to ourselves. In all this, a superstitious man finds nothing, which he has properly performed for the sake of his Deity, or which can peculiarly recommend him to the divine favour and protection. He considers not, that the most genuine method of serving the Divinity, is by promoting the happiness of his creatures. He still looks out for some more immediate service of the Supreme Being, in order to allay those terrors, with which he is haunted. And any practice, recommended to him, which either serves to no purpose in life, or offers the strongest violence to his natural inclinations; that practice he will the more readily embrace, on account of those very circumstances, which should make him absolutely reject it. It seems the more purely religious, because it proceeds from no mixture of any other motive or consideration. And if, for its sake, he sacrifices much of his ease and quiet, his claim of merit appears still to rise upon him, in proportion to the zeal and devotion which he discovers. In restoring a loan, or paying a debt, his Divinity is in no wise beholden to him; because these acts of justice are what he was bound to perform, and what many would have performed, were there no God in the universe. But if he fast a a day, or give himself a sound whipping; this has a direct reference, in his opinion, to the service of God. No other motive could engage him to such austerities. By these distinguished marks of devotion, he has now acquired the divine favour; and may expect, in recompence, protection and safety in this world, and eternal happiness in the next.’

But I will quit this review, to return to the more interesting features of Friendship.

If we compare Friendship to the other affections of man, we see Love has a powerful influence on the human heart; but its bounds are confined, and its conclusions selfish; it has but one object to possess: its attachments are rigorous indeed, but full of prejudice; and its whole influence centers in an Egoity, wherein generosity and honour lose much of their lustre.

Gratitude is an excellent operation of the soul; our obligations are therein duly estimated: it is a confession of our former indigence; and self-importance is refined by such humiliation: it depends on the comparison which is drawn, between our own wants and the bounty received. Gratitude is a branch of moral honesty, a confession of the debt of obligation.

Yet Friendship is abundantly superior to Love and Gratitude; it is an affection of the heart, in which Benevolence presides: it is accompanied by an openness of mind, wherein Generosity and Honour are exemplary, without selfishness, or price, or consideration of reward. In Friendship, the bosom is expanded and elated; secrecy, guile, and concealment are expelled; and probity, truth, and virtue reign in their place. There is an energy in Friendship, to which every faculty contributes: it fires the soul with fervour, and fills the heart with gladness. You act therein, from the same principles, as would conduct your own nearest and most momentous affairs: it is that divine perfection, to which we are peculiarly exhorted: Love your neighbour as yourself. With our friend all disguise is thrown off; the political guise of politeness, which masks sincerity, is taken away; the heart leaps with affection; the eyes gaze with rapture, approbation, and esteem; the countenance glows with expressions of delight; the bosom is unlocked, the treasures of the bosom are thrown abroad; you fear no treachery, you are open and confident; you communicate with the same joy you receive instruction, and all is pleasure.

Such were the feelings my youth experienced in the possession of a friend. How often hath the young mind hung enraptured in the association of my friend. The cordiality that then took place was as dear as life. Riper manhood hath retained the whole, though in a graver degree.

I think I hear the Saint reply, ‘the warmth of our sociability freezes up with declining youth, our cordiality cools as age advances, and our openness of heart decreases, as the frauds of mankind, and disappointments of life, advance upon experience: we grow afraid of the hidden dangers our confidence hath often prompted; and we gradually treasure up in our memories, the lessons of example, and the inferences of experience; which, like the sepulchres of the dead, only remind us how many friends are departed, how many disasters are incident to life, how little dependence there is on man, and how vain is all human confidence in the things of this world.’

If such is the consequence of age; if the delightful taste of Friendship passeth away; I will cling to the departing footsteps, I will grasp at the sacred verge, from whence to fall, is to depart from the first, and the finest enjoyment of human life; the only possession on earth, which gives an idea of the communion of angels.

To return to our Saint. He was elected by the Synod of Aln, [*] but reluctant to assume the episcopal dignity, rejected the nomination, and refused to quit his cell and austerities, until Egfrid himself, attended by all the religious and great personages of his realm then present, resorted to his island, and on their knees, with tears and supplications, in the name of God, won his consent to take upon him this Episcopacy.[*]

Thus, after nine years continuance of a solitary life in the Isle of Farne, was this pious man induced to assume an episcopal duty. He was consecrated at York on the 7th day of April, being Easter day, in the year 685, and in the 11th of the reign of King Egfrid. The King was present at this ceremony, with seven Bishops. He was first made Bishop of Hexham, and thence translated to Lindisfarn, in the place of Eata, who was removed to Hexham. On this occasion Egfrid, with the Metropolitan Theodorus, in testimony of their love and reverence for this holy Prelate, gave to the church of Lindisfarn all the land from the walls of the church of St. Peter, in York, to the west gate of the city, and from the same church to the city wall on the south; also the village of Craike, with territories there not less than three miles in circuit, that the Bishops might have a house of rest as they should pass to and from York;[*] and also added Carlisle, with a large district, to this See.

Some short time preceding the consecration of St. Cuthbert, the monastery of Coldingham was consumed by fire. The religious society of this house consisted of Monks and Nuns,[†] who occupied separate parts of the edifice; but the severities of a devoted life, and the strict rules professed in such societies, were not sufficient to prevent a shameful relaxation of discipline, and many gross abuses and enormities took place; insomuch, that the destruction of this stately edifice was regarded as a judgment, for the crimes and pollutions of its inhabitants. The monastery of Lindisfarn looked upon the event with religious horror, and soon after Cuthbert was made Bishop, he forbid the approach of women to the convent, and even denied them access to the church where the Monks performed their devotions: he caused a small chapel to be erected in a distant plain on the island for the reception of the female sex, from its situation taking the name of Greenchurch. From thenceforth the women were excluded the churches or cemeteries where St. Cuthbert's body rested; and some miraculous punishments are related which attended infringements on this injunction. In the cathedral church at Durham the pavement is distinguished by a cross of black marble, beyond which women were not allowed to advance towards the choir.

Cuthbert enjoyed his change of life and dignities but a very short time, for within two years finding his health declining, and his mind being by habit tempered more for solitude and silence than the duties of this high office, he resigned the See, and returned to his cell in Farne, where he survived only two months, yielding his spirit to God on the 20th day of May, 687, in the 53d year of the creation of the See of Lindisfarn, and 37 years after he had assumed the monastic habit at Mailross. [*] His body was brought from Farne to be interred at Holy Island, where his remains were deposited with great funeral pomp, first in the cemetery of the old church, and afterwards on the right side of the high altar, on the cathedral's being rebuilt: and for his exemplary piety and virtue, the church enrolled him in the table of Saints.[†]

On St. Cuthbert's death, Wilfrid Bishop of Hexham held the See of Lindisfarn for one year only: he was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS IX.

Eadbert, a learned man of exemplary life and piety, and of a most humane and charitable disposition. His custom was to remit all tithes to the poor. He re-erected the church of Lindisfarn, and covered it
LINDISFARN

with lead; of which edifice the present remains have been described in page 111, &c. He held the See ten years, and departing this life in the year 698, was interred near St. Cuthbert's body.[*]

EPISCOPUS X.

Egfridth, or, as some authors write him, Eadfrid next possessed the See, a Monk of Lindisfarn, one of the most learned men of his time.[†] He translated the Gospels into Latin; which work after his death was highly decorated by his successor with gold and jewels: Bilfrid, an Hermit, illuminated it with various paintings and rich devices; and Adred, a Priest, interlined it with a Saxon version. This curious work is now deposited in the British Museum, in the Cottonian collection.[*] Under this learned Prelate's patronage, the venerable Bede wrote the Life of St. Cuthbert. Bede presumed to remonstrate to his friend, for his neglect of the duties of his high office; for though he had, early after his coming to the See, through his high veneration of the memory of St. Cuthbert, repaired and beautified his little oratory on Farne, [†] yet he did not so closely follow his exemplary life, as Bede conceived he should have done for the honour of religion; whereupon he took upon him to dictate manners to the Prelate. The letter wrote on this occasion, was said to be the means of Egfridth's attending more strictly to his studies; and from that time he translated a great part of the Gospels into the Saxon language, for the easier communication to the people. Bede's maxims were, I doubt not, well adapted to the age; and they still are not insignificant to the Prelates of more modern and learned times. The subjects of this expostulation, were chiefly the importance of a Bishop's duty, and the greatness of the charge which he had assumed: he entreated him to recognize the divine commission, as being the ordination of the great missionary of heaven: that he should rebuke the proud in the vanity of their high station, and instruct them in the duties of humiliation: that they should not erect churches for the sake of popular admiration and worldly honour, but as works of piety only, for the propagation of religion and virtue: that he should visit his Clergy, and reprove or lop off those branches which were contaminated with the vices of the age: and that his leisure hours should be appropriated to acts of devotion and study, and not sacrificed to pleasures, luxuries, and indolent ease. Egfridth was Bishop for 24 years: he departed this life in 721, and was buried at Lindisfarn.

EPISCOPUS XI.

Ethelwold Abbot of Mailross succeeded to this Bishopric.[*] He was an intimate friend of St. Cuthbert. His episcopacy was famed for the abdication of King Ceolwolfe, [†] who quitted the throne, to take upon him the monastic habit at Lindisfarn, where he died A. D. 764. His body, after some years sepulture, was translated to Norham; and from thence his head was removed to the cathedral church in Durham. [‡] Ceolwolfe gave great possessions to the See of Lindisfarn. [§] Ethelwold made a ponderous crucifix of stone, inscribed with his name, which afterwards attended the body St. Cuthbert in its journeyings. This is remarked by Historians to be the first crucifix that was erected in the diocese: it was brought to the cathedral of Durham with the remains of St. Cuthbert, and placed in the century yard. This Prelate died in the year 740, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XII.

Cynewolf, who was elected the same year. His episcopacy was attended with innumerable troubles: King Egbert accused him of being accessary to the death of Offa, [*] a person of the royal line, who had taken refuge in the church of St. Cuthbert. [†] Some authors say, that his refusing to give up the assassin gave the suspicion of his being privy to the crime. The Bishop was imprisoned at Bebbanburgh, now called Bambrough, where he remained in close durance for a considerable time. After his restoration, being exhausted with age and affliction, he resigned the See, and died A. D. 783, having spent the latter days of his life in acts of the strictest piety and devotion.[‡]

EPISCOPUS XIII.

Higbald, who had officiated during Cynewol's imprisonment, succeeded to the See. During his episcopacy, on the 7th of June, 793,[*] the Barbarians from the north made a descent upon this island, and not only seized the cattle, but also destroyed the monastery, pillaged the church, and inhumanly butchered many of the inhabitants; among whom several of the Ecclesiastics fell. These heathens rejoiced in defiling the sacred things, overturning the altars, and spoiling the hallowed shrines of their relics and ornaments. They were not informed of the chief treasure, the body of St. Cuthbert, which remained undisturbed; and to which, after their retreat, several of the Monks returned. The episcopal seat still continued here for several years after this invasion.[*] All these misfortunes, according to the legends of those days, were some short time before portended to the inhabitants, by dreadful storms of thunder, and a horrid convulsion in the aerial regions; during which fiery serpents were observed flying and winding through the tempest.

The Bishop with some few of the Monks escaped the massacre; and eleven years after this catastrophe, Higbald, having been Bishop 22 years, departed this life in the year 804:[†] to whom succeeded

EPISCOPUS XIV.

Egbert, whose episcopacy furnishes history with nothing memorable, though it continued 18 years.[‡] He died A. D. 821, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XV.

Heathured, who held the See in peace nine years;[*] and to whom succeeded

EPISCOPUS XVI.

Egfrid or Egrid, [†] a personage of noble birth and enlarged mind, strenuous in good works: he greatly contributed to the honour and opulence of the church of St. Cuthbert: [‡] he built the church of Norham, and dedicated it to St. Peter, St. Cuthbert, and the royal St. Ceolwolf: he gave to the See of Lindisfarn, Gedword, the church and village which he had built at Gainford, and all his possessions between Tyne and Tees, together with his estates at Cliff and Wyckliff in Yorkshire, and Billingham in Heortness. He was Bishop of this See 16 years, departed this life A. D. 845, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XVII.

Eanbert, whose episcopacy, of eight years continuance, affords the Historian no memorable matters. He died in 854, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XVIII.

Eardulf, whose possession of this See is marked with peculiar misfortunes, among which was the second descent of the Danes. [§] This invasion happened in the 17th year of the reign of Osbert King of Northumberland. By some authors it is ascribed to the resentment of Bruern Brocard, a Northumbrian Nobleman. King Osbert having come to Bruern's castle in his absence, was most courteously received and entertained by his Lady, of whom he became enamoured; and in defiance of all the principles of humanity, hospitality, and justice, constrained her to receive his embraces. Bruern on his return being informed of the irreparable injury and disgrace he had sustained by this royal rape, went to court, attended by his kindred and dependents, and solemnly renounced his allegiance, and the lands he held of the King: then taking his passage immediately to Denmark, he fell at the feet of King Guthred, to whom Bruern was related, describing his injury in such pathetic terms, and uttering his grief with that energy, that the Danish Monarch readily hearkened to his requests, fitting out a powerful fleet and great army for the coasts of Northumberland, under two Generals who were brothers, Inguar and Hubba. Matthew of Westminster says, the principle view of this Danish expedition, was against the dominions of Edmund King of the East Angles, who was falsly charged with putting to death the father of the Danish chieftains, who had been assassinated by an exiled traitor. They had proposed to land, this author says, on the coasts of Edmund's kingdom, but by contrary winds being driven northwards, they landed at Berwick upon Tweed. The convent of Coldingham having been restored after a former conflagration, was then possessed, it is said, by Nuns, under an Abbess called Ebba, of royal blood. She dreading the barbarities these invaders exercised in their former descent, on all ranks of religious, in an assembly of her Nuns representing the hazard their chastity was in, communicated a device which she presumed would preserve them from these violators. Without hesitation they vowed that her rules should be strictly observed. Forthwith she drew out a razor, and as an example, with the greatest fortitude, cut off her nose and upper lip: she was followed by the whole sisterhood. When the Danes entered the convent in the morning, they were shocked with the horrid spectacle, and disappointed in their lusts, set fire to the edifice, wherein the Abbess with all her whole convent were consumed.[*] This is the story of Matthew of Westminster; but other authors,[†] whose relations are attended with greater probability, fix the place of this Danish descent at the mouth of the Humber, from whence the invaders marched to York. Osbert at their approach led forth a powerful army, and engaged them near the city, where he fell amongst the slain, and his troops were totally routed. Aella, who had held a conflict of five years for the kingdom of Northumberland with Osbert, under the support of Bruern and his allies, is said upon the Danish invasion to have come to a compromise with Osbert, and joined with him against the common enemy; and that in the battle, he also fell with Osbert. This account gains greater credit than that of Bruern's application to the Danes; and it seems most probable, the object of this invasion was no other than rapine and plunder. The Danes after this victory, having laid waste the country between York and the Tyne, made Egbert King of Northumberland, north of Tyne, to hold his Crown as their dependent: Being afterwards employed in expeditions against the southern parts of this island, the Northumbrians dethroned this vassal King, and gave the Crown to Ricsig. Not long after this the Danish King embarking his troops in some of the southern counties, sailed for the mouth of Tyne, and landed at the town of Tynemouth, where he wintered, it being too late in the year to attempt any thing against the Northumbrians. On the opening of the spring they began their ravages on this unfortunate country, and marked their progress with unequalled barbarities: Lindisfarn was the object of their peculiar wrath—the christian religion their most inveterate aversion.[‡] The Bishop of Lindisfarn, with Eadred the Abbot, on the approach of the Danes, left the island, carrying with them the remains of St. Cuthbert, and the most valuable of their riches and sacred things. This desertion of the monastery of Lindisfarn happened in the 22d year of Eardulf's episcopacy, 241 years after the foundation of the See by Oswald and Aidan, and 189 years after the death of St. Cuthbert. These Ecclesiastics flying from the fury of the invaders, wandered from one hiding-place to another with their hallowed burthens, of which even the stone crucifix of Ethelwold made a part, for seven continued years: at length resting at Chester-le-street, in the county of Durham.[*]

With the sacred remains of the Saint, the Bishopric was removed from this island to Chester; and whilst settled there, this Bishop, A. D. 883, annexed thereto the vacant Bishopric of Hexham, which had been without a Pastor 63 years, from the time of Tidfrith's resignation. Eardulf continued the remainder of his episcopacy at Chester in peace, and died in the year 900, having been Bishop 46 years.

Soon after the desertion of Lindisfarn, the monastery was destroyed, and the church dismantled: but afterwards there was a cell of Benedictine Monks established here, who were subordinate to the Priory of Durham. The annual revenues were valued at 48l. 18s. 11d. by Dugdale, and 60l. 5s. by Speed. 26 King Henry VIII. in the 33d year of the same reign, the possessions were granted to the Dean and Chapter of Durham.[*]

There is a legendary tale, that Guthred received from St. Cuthbert a singular mark of protection, on an invasion of the Scots, who had in their progress trampled on the remains of several religious houses, and threatened the utter demolition of Lindisfarn. When the Scotch army was drawn up in array, and ready for action, the earth opened, and in an instant swallowed their tens of thousands.[†]

As the future succession of Bishops is in no wise pertinent to this work the See of Lindisfarn being translated from this island, and never resettled there, I must take my leave of that rich and powerful episcopacy; but cannot refrain mentioning some few circumstances which happened to the wandering bones of Cuthbert.

In 995, the Danes again afflicting the Clergy, who had been settled at Chester for near a century, they took up the holy relics, and fled with them to Ripon in Yorkshire: where remaining till the ravagers again quitted the country, and presuming it a proper season for their return to Chester, on their way, by a miraculous power, they were stayed at Wardelaw, a hill near the sea coast, within about eight miles of Durham, where, in a vision, Eadmerus, one of their pious attendants, had a revelation, that at Dunhelmus the sacred relics should rest for ever: a situation fortified by nature, being a lofty eminence, surrounded by the river Wear, overgrown with a thick entangled grove, in the center of which was an open though concealed plain of cultivated land, which offered its sequestered bosom for their religious repose.[*]

The remains of St. Cuthbert rested here till the year 1069, when the the Northumbrians with other northern powers rebelling against the Norman King William, he entered the city of Durham, and laid it waste with fire and sword; the church being miraculously preserved by the sudden springing up of an eastern breeze.[*] Such was the horrid devastation made on this occasion, that the whole territories of York and Durham are said to have lain waste and uncultivated for nine years.[†]

The Ecclesiastics hearing of his horrid approach from York, fled from the enraged sword of the Conqueror, and sought the island of Lindisfarn as their refuge, bearing with them the holy relics of their Saint. They rested the first night at Gyrum or Jarrow, the second at Belinghum, the third at Inghala, now Ellingham; and now preparing to pass over to the island, at the approach of night, they found the tide at height, and the sea, which flows over the neck, in width about half a league, which intersects Lindisfarn from the main land, was then impassable. The severity of the season, it being midwinter, and the perils of the night greatly distressed the Ecclesiastics: but to their tears and prayers, the God of Nature, through his abundant favour to the pious adherents of the Saint, reverted his ordinary rules; and behold the sea fled backwards, and gave passage to the holy labourer's dry foot. The Saint's bones rested a very short time; for on the re-establishment of peace, on the 8th of April, 1070, the sacred remains were restored to the church of Durham, where they have since rested, and will rest for ages.[‡]

The catalogue of holy remains which Symeon says were translated from Lindisfarn with the body of St. Cuthbert, is not unworthy observation: The head of the holy Martyr St. Oswald.—Part of the bones of St. Aidan, who founded the monastery; the rest being carried away by Colmannus into Scotland.—The bones of Eadbert, Eadfride, and Ethelwold. —To these, from Leland's Collect. we must add, the remains of Eata, Ceoluui•phus, and Oildiauldus, an Anchorite.

Aidan's monastery at its foundation was under the government of the Bishops, and his Ecclesiastics, of the cathedral Clergy.

In the year 941, this island suffered greatly by the ravages of war.[*] In 1061, under Malcolm King of Scotland, the inhabitants were again distressed.[†]

In the treaty entered into by King Stephen with David I. King of Scotland, A. D. 1139, when the Earldom of Northumberland was settled on Prince Henry, David's son, it was especially excepted, that the power of the Prince should in no wise extend to the lands of St. Cuthbert, or those of St. Andrew in Hexhamshire.

Holy Island was the retreat of William de Sancta Barbara: during part of the time, William Cuming, Chancellor of King David I. of Scotland, held the See and Castle of Durham, in confidence that by the support and influence of his Sovereign and many confederate Barons of the Bishopric, he should obtain his election to the See. William on the 18th of October, A. D. 1144, was installed Bishop, after Cuming had held possession near four years.[*]

We continued upon the island so long, in reviewing these venerable remains, as almost to forget we had yet to visit many scenes in this county, as worthy the observation of the Antiquarian and Traveller, as those present to us: and we calculated our departure so ill, that the tide had begun to return, before we entered upon the sands. We thought ourselves secure indeed against all dangers, by having a Farmer from the neighbouring shore for our guide, who had brought over butter that morning for the inhabitants. The tide approached in a singular manner, not flowing forward in waves, but the water increased imperceptably, by oozing through the sands. At first the passage seemed a tract of wet sand, but presently it became a shining plain of level water, unruffled by any influx, reflecting in the most beautiful manner the variegated landskips of the adjoining shores. Our guide rode upon one of those methodical beasts, which keeps up an invariable motion with a kind of mechanical exactness, in spite of every approaching emergency. We expressed our anxiety at the increasing waters, yet not daring to leave our guide, on account of the intercepting gullies, and the apprehension of quicksands, of the situation and nature of which we were totally ignorant. He was unaltered, except in his dialogue, which now was filled with the circumstances of a late Traveller's death, who perished in the passage, wandering on the sands till he could not extricate himself from the surrounding floods. This was no pleasing narrative to us, who were now dashing through the increasing waters, up to our horses girths; our guide's constancy of countenance and unmoved mind affording us no very agreeable contemplation. I wish to prevent strangers engaging in so disagreeable a project, tho' ours was attended with no other circumstances than anxiety and impatiency of mind; yet had we attempted to make this passage without a guide, it is impossible to determine what would have been our lot.

At some little distance we viewed

Notes

*

In Mr Grose's works we find these particulars relative to this Island.

‘Bede calls it a Semi Island, being as he justly observes, twice an island and twice continent in one day; for at the flowing of the tide it is encompassed by water, and at the ebb there is an almost dry passage, both for horses and carriages to and from the main land; from which if measured in a straight line it is distant about two miles eastward; but on account of some quick sands passengers are obliged to make so many detours, that the length of the way is nearly doubled, the water over these flats at spring tides is only seven feet.’

‘This island was by the Britons called Inis Medicante; also Lindisfarn from the small rivulet of Lindi which here runs into the sea, and the Celtic word Fahren or recess; also on account of its being the habitation of some of the first monks in this country, it afterwards obtained its present name of Holy Island. It measures from east to west about two miles and a quarter, and its breadth from north to south is scarcely a mile and a half. At the north-west part there runs out a spit of land of about a mile in length. The Monastery is situated at the southermost extremity; and a small distance north of it stands the little town inhabited chiefly by fishermen. This island though really part of Northumberland belongs to Durham; and all civil disputes must be determined by the justices of that county.’

↵

†
Lindis dicitur flumen, quod in mare excurrit, duorum pedum latitudinem habens, quando Ledon fuerit, id est, minor aestus, & videri potest. Quando vero Malina fuerit, id est, major aestus maris, tum nequit Lindis videri. Farne autem insula est, in qua beatissimus Cuthbertus heremitican invitam duxit. Non tanta est Lindisfarne, sed est posita in mare, magnis exturbata fluctibus dicbus & Noctibus.—Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 173.
↵

*
The cathedral, with the town of Fenham, and the town and church of Norham were given by William de Carilepho, to the monastery of Durham. Monast. Angl. Vol. 1.
↵

*

S. Oswaldus successit in reg. utriusque.

Hic Aidano Episcopo sedem in Lindisfarne dedit.

Hic Eccl. S. Petri Ebor. ab Edwino rege inceptam consummavit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 411.

Erat namque filius Potentissimi regis Ethelfridi, cujus Pater Ethelricus rex, cujus Pater Ida rex, a quo, ut Beda refect, regalis Northanhymbrorum prosapia cepit originem. Nec tantum paterna sed et materna quoque origine clarissimum ducit genealogium ex sorore, videlicet Edwini Regis procreatus, &c. &c.

Symeon Dunel.

↵

†

Anno igitur Dominicae incarnationis DCXXXV, qui est annus adventus Anglorum in Brittaniane CLXXXVIII, adventus vero sancti Augustini XXXIX piissimus Rex Oswaldus, secundo imperii sui anno, venienti ad se Aidano, sedem Episcopalem in Insula Lindisfarnensi constituit, ubi et ipse antistes, jubente suffragante & co-operante Rege, Monachorum, qui secum venerant, habitationem instituit, hoc illis Rege scilicet & Episcopo procurantibus, ut et Pontificale auctoritate fides reboraretur novella, & monachia institutione semper in posterum caperet augmentum religionis observantia.

Ibid.

↵

‡

Nomina Episcoporum Lindisfarnensium.

Aidan, Finan, Colman, Tuda, Eata, Cuthbertus, Eadberht, Aetheluuold, Cineuulsus, Hygbaldus, Ecgbertus, Earduffus, Cuthheardus, Tilredus, Wigredus, Vhtredus, Sexhelme, Aldredus, Alsius, Aldhumus, Eadmundus, Edredus, Egelricus, Egelwinus, Walcherus, Wilhelmus, Ranulphus, Gaufridus.

Lel. Col. Vol. 1. p. 320.

↵

§
In Ridpath's Border History said to be ‘a Monk of the chief Scottish monastery of I'colm'kill;’ but there is no authority quoted for this assertion.
↵

*

Regno enim potitus, gentem fibi subditam secum mox Christo subdidit, utpote in verbo fidei pontifici Aidano socius & co-operator existens egregius: praedicante namque in sua id est scottorum lingua Episcopo, ille qui hanc aeque ut sum perfecte noverat, Rex utique Regis aeterni minister devotus assistere, & fidus interpes fidei ducìbus suis ac ministris ministrare solebat verba salutis.

Symeon Dunelm. p. 17.

He was buried in the church of Lindisfarne, and was esteemed so holy, that Colman, also Bishop of that See, some years afterwards retiring into Scotland in the year 664, carried part of his reliques with him. The Monks of Glastonbury falsely pretended he was buried in their abbey.

Grose.

↵

†
Bede Ch. His. 3d book.
↵

‡

Hujus praesulatus anno 8. regni autem sui nono, sanctissimus & piissimus Rex Oswaldus primus in tota Berniciorum gente signifer fidei Christianae & fundator ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis, ex qua omnium ejusdem provinciae ecclesiarum primordia, a Paganis, in Bello prostratus occubuit.

Sym. Dunel.

↵

§

Peractis in Episcopatu decem & septem annis, praesul Aidanus viam patrum est ingressus, cui mors temporalis laetum vitae alterius pendebat introitum, &c. &c.

Ibid.

The holy Bishop Aidan, when he was near the close of life, having exercised the episcopal office for 17 years, remained in a royal village not far from the city of Bebba: for having a church and habitation there, he used frequently to reside at that place, for his greater convenience of preaching in the adjacent country; he never resting long in a place, having no possessions but his church, and a small spot of ground thereabout: being sick, he erected a hut, close to the wall, on the west side of the church. In this place he gave up the ghost on the last day of August, in the 17th year of his episcopacy. His body was carried to Holy Island to be interred in the church-yard of the monastery; but shortly after, a more spacious church being erected there, dedicated to St. Peter, his bones were removed, and with much religious ceremony interred on the right side of the high altar.

Bede's Ch. Hist. b. 3. ch. 16.

↵

*

Hujus ad caelos felicem triumphum coelestium agminum choris eximia cum claritate deducentibus, ille Israhelita in quo dolus non erat, in carne non secundum carnem vivens, ille cujus a puero tota conversatio erat in caelis, ille, inquam, conversationis angelicae juvenis egregius, sanctissimus videlicet Cuthbertus videre promeruit: nam cum pastor futurus animarum, agens in montibus custodiam pecorum juxta fluviam Leder, solus secretis pernoctaret in orationibus, jamque studio & amore totus in caelum raperetur, tantae gloriae ac beatitudinis contemplatione dignus habebatur. Qua visione dilectus Deo adolescens incitatus ad subeundum arctioris propopositi gradum, ad promerendam inter magnificos viros altioris praemii gloriam, mane facto, statim commendans suis pecora quae pascebat dominis, perfectioris vitae gratia monasterium petere decrevit. Anno enim Dominicae incarnationis DCLI, ab adventu vero sancti Augustini in Britanniam LV, ex quo autem provincia Berniciorun industria Regis Oswaldi fidem Christi perceperat anno XVII, quo Pontifex Aidanus ad caelestia tranfiit, qui est annus imperii Regis Oswiu, nonus, juvenis ille sanctissimus Christo soli famulaturus, monasterium Mailrosense intravit, susceptus a reverendissimo Abbate Eata, suggerente ei de Cuthberto Boisilo eximiae sanctitatis & prophetici spiritus viro, qui ipsum monasterium secundus ab Abbate, praepositi jure, gubernabat.

Sym. Dunelm.

In the paintings of one of the windows in the cathedral church at Durham, St. Aidan is represented in his episcopal garb, with a crosier in his hand, whilst his soul is carried to heaven in a sheet by two angels.

The effigies of this Saint were placed at the north door of the entrance into the quire of the cathedral at Durham, underneath which was the following inscription: ‘Sanctus Aidanus natione Scotus, Monachus Monasterii de Hii, Episcopus factus per Oswaldum vocatus, anno gratiae 635, fundavit sedem Episcopalem & Monachorum congregationem in insula Lindisfarnensi, ac gentem Berniciorum, co-operante sancto Oswaldo ad fidem Christi convertit. Hujus Aidani animam sanctus Cuthbertus ab Angelis in Caelum deferri conspexit: ejus caput et Ossa in hac Ecclesia Dunelmensi, ut sanctae reliquiae sunt servata.’

Oswald, the second son of Ethelfrid, succeeded to both the kingdoms (Deira and Bernicia) a noble and virtuous Prince, whose chief study was to promote the christian religion. To this effect he sent his Embassadors unto Donald IV. then reigning in Scotland, and entreated him by the old familiarity that had been among them, to help him with some worthy and learned men that could instruct his people in the faith of Christ. The King recommending the matter to the Clergy, one Cormanus was elected to go thither; but his labours proving unprofitable, he returned about the end of the year, and in a synod of the Bishops and Clergy, informed them, that they were a people so indocile and froward, that the pains taken upon them were lost, they neither being desirous nor capable of instruction.

It grieved the synod exceedingly to hear this, and while they were consulting what to do, Aidanus, a learned man and reverend preacher, is said to have advised them not to give over the work at any hands, for that the bad success of Cormanus's labours might possibly proceed from himself, that had not used the people tenderly, nor according to the Apostle's rules ‘fed them at first with milk;’ and therefore desired some other approved man might be employed of new, who would probably do good among them.

This opinion allowed by all, none was thought fitter for this service than he who had given the advice; and so with common consent was Aidan ordained Bishop, and appointed to that charge. Being come thither, he set himself to amend the fault which he supposed Corman had committed, and so tempered his doctrine, as multitudes of people daily did resort unto him to be instructed. It was great hinderance unto him at first, that he was not skilled in the Saxon tongue, neither did the people understand his language; but this defect the King himself supplied, interpreting to the auditory all that Aidanus delivered in his sermon: so by the King's zeal, and Aidanus's diligence, such numbers were brought to the christian profession, as in the space of seven days 15,000 persons were by him baptized.

Whether this people were more happy in their King or in this Bishop, it is difficult to say, for the King he did so excel in piety and prudence, that, as Beda writes, all the nations and provinces within Britain were at his devotion; and not the less his heart was never lifted up within him, but still he shewed himself courteous and affable, and of the poor most compassionate. Among examples of his liberality towards these, the same Beda related, that sitting at table on Easter-day, and Aidanus by him, when it was told that a number of poor men were at the gate expecting his alms, he commanded to carry the meat that was set before him unto them, and the platter of silver wherein it was to be broke in pieces, and distributed among them. Aidanus beholding it, took the King by the right hand, and kissing it, said, "Nunquam marcesca haec manus," never let this hand consume or wither; which, as he writeth, came also to pass, for being killed in battle, and his arm and his hand cut off, the same was enclosed in a silver shrine, and remained for many years uncorrupted, in the church of St. Peter, at Bambrough.

As to Aidanus, he was an ensample of abstinence, sobriety, chastity, charity, and all other episcopal virtues; for as he taught, so he lived, was idle at no time, nor did he admit any of his retinue to be so, but kept them in a continual exercise, either reading scripture or learning the psalms of David by heart. If he was invited to any feast (as rarely he went) he made no stay, but after a little refreshment taken, got himself away. In preaching he was most diligent, travelling through the country, for the greater part on foot, and instructing the people wheresoever he came. In a word, he was deficient in no duty required of a good Pastor; and having governed the church in those parts most happily the space of 17 years, he died in the Isle of Lindisfarne, the place he chused for his residence, where he was also buried.

After his death, which happened in the year 651, Finianus was ordained Bishop, and sent to the Northumbers, from Scotland.

Spotswood's Hist. of the Church of Scotland, book 1. p. 14.

↵

*
Succesiit autem Aidano in Episcopatum Finan, ab eadem Gente et Monasterio unde ut predecessor ejus fuerat misius.

Sym. Dunel.

↵

†

Finan, Qui in Insula Lindisfarnensi fecit Ecclesiam, sedi Episcopali congruam, quam tempore sequente reverentissimus Archiepiscopus Theodorus in honore beati Petri Apostoli dedicavit: (Petri & Pauli Lel. Col.) Sed Episcopus loci ipsius Eadbertus, de quo in sequentibus decimus, ablata arundine, Plumbi laminis eam totam, hoc est, et tectum, & ipsos quoque parietes ejus, cooperire curavit. Ab hoc Episcopo filicet Finano, princeps Mediterraneorum Anglorum Peada in provincia Northanhymbrorum baptizatus est, &c. Nec multo post Rex Orientalium Saxonum Sigbertus, ab eodem Episcopo lavacrum salutis accipit, &c.

Fecit Eccle. quam tamen more Scottorum, non de lapide, sed de robore secto totam composcit, atque arundine contexit, &c.

Symeon, Bede, Lel. Col.

↵

*
Lel. Collect. vol. 2. p. 140.
↵

†

Mayo.

S. Colmannus Episc. Lindisfarnensis, abdicato Episcopatu, in Hiberniam rediit ann. 655, ubi in Monasterio Magionensi a se constructo, Anglos (inter quos fuit S. Geraldus) collocavit, unde locus olim dicebatur Magionia-Sasson, id est, Magio-Saxonum. Canonici hujus Coenobii, ordinis fuit Augustiniani.

Hibern. Antiq. Jacobo Waraeo, p. 220.

↵

‡

Defuncto autem Finano decimo sui Episcopatus anno, Colmannus & ipse a Scotia missus, ad Ecclesiae regimen successie.

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

§

During the incumbency of Colman, a controversy concerning the celebration of Easter, the tonsure of Priests, and some other ceremonies of the church, which had long been agitated with great acrimony, was determined in favour of the Roman manner, in preference to that of the Eastern churches, by King Oswy, at a council held at Steanch Hall (now Whitby) monastery.

Grose.

The mode of tonsure used by the continental churches, was to make bare the crown, leaving the remaining hair as a resemblance of our Saviour's crown of thorns. The Scotch church shore the hair off from ear to ear. In the contest touching the celebration of Easter, the authority derived from St. Peter to his successors in the See of Rome was chiefly insisted on; and the idea of his keeping the keys of heaven, admitted by all the disputants, determined the King in his opinion.

Collier's Ch. Hist.

↵

‖

Deinde secessit ad insulam quandam parvam, quae ad occidentalem plagam ab Hibernia procul secreta, sermone Scottico Inishouinde (〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, ves. Ang. Sax.) i. e. insula vitulae albae nuncupatur. In hanc ergo perveniens, construxit monast. & monachos inibi, quos de utraque natione collectos adduxerat, collocavit. Qui cum invicem concordare non possent, eo quod Scotti tempore aestatis, quo fruges erant colligendae relicto monasterio, per nota sibi loca dispersi vagarentur; at vero succedente hyeme redirent, & his, quae Angli praeparaverant, communiter uti defiderarent.

Lel. Col. vol. 2. p. 144

↵

*
Smith. Not ad Bed. p. 135, from a MS. of John Weshington, Prior of Durham.
↵

†
In Ridpath's Border History, p. 24, he is said to have received his education and ordination in Ireland; but no authority is quoted.
↵

‡

Quo patriam reverso suscepit pro illo Pontificatum Northanhymbrorum famulus Christi Tuda, qui apud Scottos austrinos eruditus erat atque ordonatus Episcopus; vir quidem bonus & religiosus, sed eodem anno superveniente pestilentia, ac provinciam Northanhymbrorum depopulante, raptus est de Mundo.

Sym Dunelm.

Tuda qui apud Scottos Austrinos eruditus erat, successit in Episc. Lindisfarn: Colmanno, et eodem anno ex peste obiit, et sepultus est in Monasterio de Penelegh.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 368.

↵

*
Many anecdotes of Wilfrid take place in the account given of Hexham and its Prelates.
↵

*
St. Ebba, daughter of Edilfrid King of Northumberland, was Prioress of Coldingham in Scotland. She with others cut off their noses, that their beauty might be no bait to the lustful Danes.
↵

*

Anno ab incarnatione Domini 664, ex quo autem sedes Episcopalis in Insula Lindisfarnensi & Monachorum habitatio a studiosissimis Christi cultoribus Rege Oswaldo & Pontifice Aidano institutae sunt anno tricesimo. Quo Scotti domum redeuntes ipsam ecclesiam reliquerant: Abbas Eata, ut dictum est, cura ipsius ecclesiae sive monasterii suscepta, &c.—Porro fratribus qui in Lindisfarnensi Ecclesia, Scottis abeuntibus, remanere maluerunt, praepositus est Abbatis jure, vir reverentissimus ac mansuetissimus Eata, qui erat Abbas in monasterio quod vocatur Mailross, &c. &c.

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

†

The effigies of Eata were placed at the north door of the quire of Durham cathedral, with this inscription.

St Eata Monachus & Abbas Mailrosensis & Lindisfarnensis, fecit sanctum Cuthbertum monachum ac praepositum sive Priorem primo Mailrosensem post Lindisfarnensem, & dato loco ab Alfrido Rege, in Ripon fundavit monasterium; ubi sanctus Cuthbertus hospitio suscepit Angelum domini. Et Episcopus factus, quintus in ordine rexit ecclesiam Lindisfarnensem, simul cum ecclesia de Hexham: cujus ossa in ecclesiam de Hexham sunt canonizata.

This inscription differs greatly from Symeon's account of the succession of our Bishops, making Eata the 5th, instead of the 7th Prelate. It corresponds with Leland's list, in which neither Wilfred or Chad appears.

↵

*

Post tres autem annos abcessionis Wilfridi, Theodorus ordinavit Tumbertum ad Hagustaldensem ecclesiam, Eata ad Lindisfarnensis ecclesiae praesulatum, per quatuor annos remanente. Quadrienno vero ex acto, contigit ut congregata synodo non parva sed praesentia piissimi & deo delecti Regis Ecgfridi, juxta fluminum Alne, in loco qui dicitur Aettiwaforda, quod significavit ad duplex vadum, cui beatae memoriae Theodorus Archiaepiscopus presidebat, unanimo omnium consensu, ad Episcopatum ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis beatus pater Cuthbertus eligeretur.

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

†

Eata successit Tudae in Episc. Lindisfarn: consecratus Ebor: a Theodoro. Hic Eata 3 annis pontific: Lindisfarn & Haugustaldensem, quem S Wilfridus A. D. 673 fundavit, rexit. Deinde electo Tumberto ad Hagustal: ille solus praefuit Lindisfarn: sedi.

Nec multo post Eata exactis in Episcoparu Lindisfarn 14 annis, reductus est ad sedem Hagustaldensem, & Cuthbertus fit Episcopus Lindisfarn.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 368.

↵

‡

Abbas Eata 664, ut dictum est, cura ipsius ecclesiae sive monasterii suscepta, beatum Cuthbertum cum in Mailrosensi monasterio in monachiae vitae perfectione jam quartum decimum ageret annum, illo transtulit, ut ubi quoque fratribus custodiam disciplinae regularis, & auctoritatae prepositi intimaret & examplo virtutis praemonstraret.

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

§

St. Cuthbert, as it is generally agreed, was born of mean parents, though some make him descended from the blood royal of Ireland; but the first seems the most probable, as he followed the occupation of a shepherd.

Once upon a time when the saint was preaching in a certain village to a crowded audience, the alarm was given that there was one of the cottages on fire, this drew a number of people from the sermon to extinguish it, which was just what satan proposed; the more water they threw on it, the more fiercely it seemed to burn, and all efforts to put it out seemed ineffectual. The saint missing so many of his auditors, enquired the cause, when leaving off his preaching and repairing to the scene of action, he perceived it was all illusion, and ordered a few drops of holy water to be sprinkled on it; on which the devil sneaked off, and the fire disappeared.

Grose.

The same author repeats some other Iudicrious tales of the like nature.

↵

*

He had such grace and skill in expression, such persuasive zeal, and such an angelic face and countenance, that no one presumed to lock up the secrets of his heart from him.

Bede's Eccl. Hist.

Extracts from the Legend of St. Cuthbert, or the Histories of his Churches at Lindisfarne, Cunecascestre, & Dunholm, by Robert Hegg, 1626.—A Manuscript in the Bishop's Library at Durham.

"At which tyme I finde, that St. Cuthbert was a shepheard, and that in the dead of the night, he saw the soule of the said Bishop carryed up with great melody by a quire of angells into heaven; which heavenly vision soe seaz'd upon his affection, that resolving upon an holyer course of life, he thought he could betake himself to noe better place then to the abby of Mailrose, built by Aidanus upon the banks of Tweed; but the devill to crosse his good intent, meetes him in his journey, and after a good cudgeling, was glad to leave him; for proof whereof, in the same place to this day (if you will borrowe an optick-glass from superstition) you may see the printe of his cloven foote: Neither did his valour, but also his humulitie appeare, when overtaken by night and hunger, he was forc'd to succour himselfe under an old cottage, where he found noe other guest for entertainment, then an horse, which turning up the hay, discovered a loafe of bread, at which the Saint right glad, said grace, and giving the horse one halfe, satisfied himselfe with the other, and the next day came to Mailrose, where he had no sooner entred, but Boysilus Prior of the abby, by a propheticall phisiognomy, as if he had read in his face his sanctite, solemnly receives him in his armes, and presents him to Eata the Abbat, who committed him to Boysilus for his tutor, who taught him St. John's gospell, in that booke, which in honour of the schollar, was kept in the abby at Durham in Prior Turgots tyme, on which, after soe many centuries of yeares, noe moth durst ever presume to feede.

"In this abby, after he had spent in the perfection of a monasticall life 15 yeares, he was prefer'd by Eata the Bishop, to the Priorie of Lindisfarne. In this Holy Island (so christned in after ages for St. Cuthbert's sanctitie) stood that renouned monastery founded by K. Oswald, and was the mother church and nurcery of religion among the Bernicians under Aidanus, from whom the episcopall race of the Prelates of the church of Durham reckon their succession.

"In this island fourteen Bishops successively ascended the episcopall seate; among whom, as a glorious starre of the first magnitude, St. Cuthbert shyned in the firmament of this church; where after twelve yeares he had borne the dignity of the Priorship, he became a votary to an anachoreticall life, and choosed the island Farne, seated in the maine ocean, for the place of his hermytage. This island as voyd of trees, water, and graine, as full of devills, became the stage whereon St. Cuthbert acted all his miracles; for at his arrival, the spirits that frequented this isle were put to slight, the rocks powred out their water, and as if there had beene a return of the golden age, the earth brought forth corne without tillage, with many more wonders, if they might bee reported upon the creditt of a legend: but these are enough to shewe what advantage the Monkes took of the blind devotion of that age, whose study and whole practise was to devise and relate miracles of their Saints, which (as superstition is alwaies credulous) were as easily beleeved: Thus to gaine from the Pagans a reverend opinion of christianity, they thought it but a pious fraud to cosen the people with volumes of wonders, who whiles they defended trueth by forgeries, their impostures discover'd to wiser ages, have rather made religion suspected, then any way advanced it: but if I should proceed in this discourse, I should leave St. Cuthbert too solitarie in his cell at Farne, where for want of other auditors, I finde him in the history preaching to birds that eate his corne, who soe confuted them out of the text, with aliena non concupisces, that they never after touch'd his harvest. In like manner he reclaymed two crowes from their wonted stealing and rapine, that pull'd thatch of his anchorage for to build their nests, and made them so penitent, that they lay prostrate at his feete for absolution.

"In this isle he voluntarilye suffer'd nine yeares imprisonment from the society of men, soe wholly devoted to heaven, that he remembred not he was upon earth, and for a whole yeare forgott to put off his shoes: but he could not live soe obscurely in his cell, as his same was resplendent abroad; and in a synod at Alne upon Twysord he was in his absence chosen Bishop: This dignity was prophesied to him long before whiles he was a child, by an infant of three yeares old, who gravely reproved him, Fye Saint Cuthbert! what a Presbyter and a Bishop, and playing among boyes? as if at that tyme he had seene him in his myter and crosier staffe; but St. Cuthbert had so wedded his affection to a solitary life, that neither letters nor embassadors from the synod could perswade or command him to take upon him the government of the church, till King Egfrid himselfe, attended with both the Lords temporall and spirituall, sayled to his hermytage, and with the same company might have besieged and taken a city whiles they were conquering his resolution.

"The King to enlarge his diocesse gave him a great part of the city of Yorke, and the village of Creca with three miles compasse about it, as also the cittie of Carliel with the circuit of fifteen miles about it: but for all this, St. Cuthberts mind was still on his anchorage, whither shortly he betooke himselfe againe, and in contempt of honour, edded his life in his cell. But it shall be no part of his funerall prayses thus to unman himselfe to contemplate himselfe into a God or Silvanus, for what was this else then to excommunicate himselfe from the commonweale, and to finne against the definition of a man, to whom societie is as naturall, as to bee a creature: and surely religion cannot bee the motive of such an unnaturall act, but rather in all such anchorites a melancholy distemper is usually mistaken for devotion.

"His last will and testament was to his Monkes to bury him at the east side of his oratory, in a coffin that venerable Cudda the Abbat gave him, which they should finde hid in the ground at the north side of his cell, and to putt his corps in the shirt that Verca Abbatesse of Tinmouth had sent him for a token (which for the reverence of that holy woman he had never worn in his life time,) and lastly, if the Pagans should invade them, and force them to flye, that they should carry with them his bones: All these desires were performed; onely at the weeping request of the Monkes, he permitted that his body should bee transported to Lindisfarne, where in St. Peters church, at the right side of the high altar, he was solemnly enshrined anno domini 687.

"But to returne to Saint Cuthbert, who had now an eleven yeares lyen in his sepulchre, when the Monkes thought to place his bones, by this time drye and disrobed of flesh, among their other reliques, for kisses and adoration: but behold a wonder! They looke for a skeleton, but found an entire body, with joints flexible, and flesh so succulent, that there onely wanted heate to make his body live without a soule; nay his very funerall weedes were so fresh, as if putrefaction had not dared to pluck him by the coate. This was rather to pay his debt to heaven then to nature; who after he had restored his soule to God, should keepe back the payment of his body from corruption. In other men it is true, that sleepe is the image of death, but here the grave suffer'd a cheat, and death was the image of sleepe.

"This miracle St. Beda reports (who was an eleven yeares old at St. Cuthberts death) in relating whereof he made no lye, but perhaps told one. The history of whose life and death, he writ from the information of the Monkes of Lindisfarne, who had defloured all the miracles of Saints in holy writt, and bestowed them upon their St. Cuthbert; who, like man in paradise, had the beasts to doe him homage, and the sea monsters to aske him blessing: Like Abraham he entertayned three angells at the monasterie of Rippon: A raven brought Elias flesh, and an eagle brought St. Cuthbert fish. As he sayl'd with his mother from Ireland, his native soyl, into Scotland, he lett the book of Psalmes fall into the sea, which forthwith was swallowed up of a sea calfe, and by the same fish delivered to them at their landing. Take here the psalter for a man, and the sea calfe for a whale, and you have the history of Ionas, with many such histories of wonder, with which the Monkes delighted the superstition of the times.

"After this illustrious miracle of St. Cuthbert's incorruption, Lindisfarne rais'd itselfe to that height of renowne, that Ceolwolphus the King, to whom Bede dedicates his English Historie, resigned an earthly crowne to gaine a celestiall one, and tooke upon him the habitt of a Monke in Lindisfarne; a welcome man you may be sure to that monastery, for whose sake, it was graunted the Monkes there to drinke wine or ale, who before were onely to drinke milke or water, though they that dranke after Saint Cuthbert in his cupp, found sometimes water turn'd into wyne without a miracle.

"Many kingly treasures did this devout Prince bestowe upon that monastery, with such large possessions, as he seem'd rather to resigne his kingdome to the church than to his successour, and became a Monke to make St. Cuthbert a King: for he endowed that monastery with all the land betweene the rivers of Tees and Weer, and many townes and lordships, as Warkworth Castle, Billingham, Gedworth, (where Ceolwolphus built the church,) and diverse other villages, as Woodcestre, Hutingham, Bresgen, Edulingham, names that for ought I know, have outlived their townes, or townes that have chang'd their names.

"After the manifestation of this miracle of bodily immortality after death. Eadfrid then Bishop, caused him to be lay'd in a new sepulchre, and to be advanced for state and reverence above the pavement in the sanctuary, for it was not fitt that he should have his grave among the dead, whose body lived by sanctity when his soule was gone.

"Now they began to worship the very ground St. Cuthbert had troad upon, whose sanctity was such, that he made every place he came in a church; and Eadfrid in honour of St. Cuthberts presence, there built up his hermitage; where, as if a genius of sanctity had frequented that place, Ethelwald a Monke of Rippon lived an Hermite twelve yeares.

"Thus for a long tyme flourished the Monkes of that church in great repute and prosperity, till the Danes disturbed their peace, who now began to make incursions upon the frontiers of this land, for many yeares continueing their piracies, till they had made a final conquest, which at length yeilded to the Norman sword. Those were the tymes, when so many monasteries (which the devotion of former ages had erected) had their funerals: then perished that famous Emporium of Hartlepoole, where the religious Hieu built a nunnery, of which I may speake as Hildebert of Rome, ‘Quam magna fueras integra, fracta doces;’ whose ruines shew how great shee was in her glory, but now remayns to passengers both a monument of devotion and hostility: then were demolished the two monasteries of St. Peter and St. Paul at Weremouth and Jarrow, built by the reverend Abbats Celfrid and Benedict.

"The furie of the Danes still encreasing, continued by the sea costes to Tinmouth, so that it was now tyme for the Monkes of Lindisfarne to look about them; for they well understood by the lamentable usage of their neighbouring abbyes that the Danes would not, like the devill, bee affrighted with holy water, and saw by the bad successe of other monasteries, that it was not safe trusting to the protection of a Saint, and so concluding upon flight, putting all their reliques into St. Cuthberts coffin, they left the Pagans the spoyle of an empty church, anno Domini 893.

"It was Eardulphus his fortune to bee Bishop in these troublesome tymes, who with his whole Cleargy and families of People, followed this sacred bier; which, besides seaven Monkes, as deputed Esquires of his body, none durst presume to touch. These miseries had beene enough to have unfainted St Cuthbert, when pursued both by forreine foes, and overtaken with an home-bred enemy, famyne, he could afford them no releife. They were now come to the first sea, and might complaine as the old Brittanes did to Actius the Consull, Repellunt nos Barbari ad mare; repellit mare ad Barbaros; inter haec duo oriuntur genero functum, aut jugulamur, aut mergimur. But because the disrespective sea would not divide itselfe at the approach of St. Cuthbert, the Bishop with some fewe of his Monkes, determin'd privily to sayle over into Ireland with his corps, that there he might finde rest for his toumbe, where he first had his birth. But they had not farre sail'd from the shore, but the winds and the sea were both up in armes against their shippe, which both Aeolus and Neptune might have reverenced for her sacred carryage of a Bishop and his Clergy: but the sea roared soe loud, that noe prayers for St. Cuthbert could bee heard, but threaten'd them so near with shipwracke, as they had not that confidence in their Saint, as to encourage the marriners as Caesar did, Ne metues, Cuthbertum vehis! who now himself wanted some other Saint to invocate for helpe, and was in daunger to bee drowned after he was dead. Where had then beene the church of Durham, and the devotion of Kings to his sepulchur? Where had then beene the tutelarie Deity against the Scotts, and the lande of the church called St. Cuthberts patrimony? How then should his halywarke-folk be freed from tribute and service in warre, and the Monkes of Durham fed soe many yeares with ease and fatt revenues, if now their Saint had beene entombed in the sea, and erected his episcopal seate among the fishes? This sacrilegious storme strucke this shippe with such a palsie, that it shak't out the texts of the Evangelists into the sea: This book Eadfrid Bishop of Lindisfarne had writ out with his own hand, and Belfrid the Anchorite had curiously paynted and guilded it, in which art the Monkes were admirably expert; not that I taxe in them this quality, but onely, it argued the Monkes were at great leasure. Thus, whether the sea, as envying the land such a precious jewell as St. Cuthbert, or he himself to shew his dislike for Ireland, had raised this storme, it was not long 'till in a calme they were carryed to the shore from whence they sett forth: but great sorrow you must imagine was for the drowned booke, 'till one Hundredus (one of the seven that carryed the coffyn) was bid in a night vision by St. Cuthbert, to goe seeke it on the shoare at Whitterne, where he found it in its former beautie and splendour, which was kept in Prior Turgots tyme in Durham, in memory of the miracle; when the water seem'd to run out of herselfe to doe homage to St. Cuthbert, and would rather loose her nature then wett his book. If this were true, then I am sure that St. Cuthberts bookes had twice better fortune in the sea, then they have now in his library at Durham, which was once a little vatican of choyce manuscripts, but now rather a 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 than a library; rather a sepulcher f•r bookes, than a place to conserve them: but this is the disease of most church libraryes, since the inventing of printing, by which, men finding a more compendious way, and a cheaper passage to superficial learning, have bequeathed old manuscripts to the mothes and jackdawes, the onely students at this day in such libraries.

"But to returne to the forenamed Monkes, who had another oracle by night from St. Cuthbert, to repair to a certaine tree, whereon he should finde a bridle, at the sight whereof, a dunne horse should proffer his service (for ease of the Monkes) to drawe St. Cuthberts body lay'd upon a wagon: but this was not to steale an horse, because it was an horse of St. Cuthberts providing, the conduct whereof (as if he understood more of St. Cuthberts minde than the rest) they followed whither soever he drew him, and at length, by the providence of the horse, they came to the monastery of Creca, where for foure moneths they were kindly entertayned by the Abbat and his Covent, and had leasure to tell storyes of their travailes.

"From this abby, in a revelation by night, St. Cuthbert sent Aeadred Abbat of Luell, upon an embassage to the campe of the Danes, that they should crowne Guthredus King, whom they had sold to a widdow; a thing in those days not practiced by the Pope to dispose of kingdomes. But what authority he had to nominate a King, or what reason they had to believe a dreame, must be rank'd amongst St. Cuthberts miracles: for Guthred thus to bee made a King, what was it else then to become St. Cuthberts subject, and to oblige his royalty to those Monkes that as boldly encroacht upon soe fayre an advantage? For first, they require the restauration of their episcopal seat in Cuncacestre, where Eardulphus first ascended the pontifical chayre. And it was but another dreame, for the foresayd Abbot to goe to the King from St. Cuthbert, and bid him give all the lands betwixt Weer and Tyne for ever to his church. This modest request must bee graunted, or else the Monkes would be ready to upbrayd him with ingratitude. Ah poor Prince! to bee thus rob'd of his kingdome, and to receive a diademe, to set it upon St. Cuthberts head! Thus was the religious King cheated of his soveraignty by those Monkes that had now got the art of anslaving the devotion of Princes to their private ends; for at this tyme also, the great Alfred swore fealty to St. Cuthbert and his Clergy, by whose help they perswaded him, that he had got the victory over the Pagans. This made them bold also to ask the priviledge of a sanctuary for their church, to reskue offenders 37 dayes at St. Cuthberts sepulchre, that neither Justice should curbe the freedome of sinning, either against heaven or the state; for noe other use was commonly made of asylums, than, that men might offend more securely, and disloyally appeal from the King and the Lawes to the protection of a Saint. Neither was this enough, 'till King Alfred must by his royal charter free the inhabitants of St. Cuthberts lande from tribute to the King, which he sealed with fearful anathem's to his successors, that should infringe the said liberties. What else was this, than for a King to bee a Traitour to his own Majesty, and deprive himself of that service, which even by the law of nature is due from a Subject to his Prince.

"Now in what reverend esteem this Saint was to King Alfred, I gather from the consecration of the chappel to St Cuthbert in University Colledge in Oxford, where he is said to bee the first founder: in an antient window whereof King Alfred and St. Cuthbert are painted together, the King bespeaking the Saint in a pentameter, ‘Hic in honore tui Collegium statui;’ and St. Cuthbert thus replying in an hexameter, ‘Quod statuisti in eo, pervertentes maledico;’ and by such curses, the Monks maintayn'd their lands in a better tenure than under the Kings broad seale. The like malediction you may read in a distick in Trinity Colledge in Oxford, engraven in wooden letters over the screene,

Terras Cuthberti qui non spoliare verentur,

Esse queant certi, quod morte mala morientur;

which colledge was founded by Thomas Hatfield Bishop of Durham, anno Domini 1340.

"Thus after Eardulphus (the last Bishop of Lindisfarne, and the first of Chester) had shared with St. Cuthbert both in his prosperity and adversity, and had seene this new church sprung up like a phoenix out of the ashes of the former, he ended his life in a full age, and was solemnely enterred anno Domini 894; in which yeare also died the victorious Alfred, who on his death bedd, bequeathed his love of St. Cuthbert, as a precious legacy to his sonne Edward, chargeing him to be as well heire to his devotion to that Saint, as to his kingdomes. King Edward also, as if it had beene ex traduce to those Princes to honour St. Cuthbert, left his sonne Athelsian executor of his love to that church.

An Anthem for St. Cuthbert, exscribed out of a Manuscript of a Monk of Durham.

Splendor Christi Sacerdotis,

Et vicinis et remotis

Preeminet cum gloria.

Lux Cuthberti fulget late,

Corporis integritate,

Nec est transitoria.

Incorrupta vernat Caro,

Quam decore Rex preclaro

Celestis magnificat.

Cujus festum Celum plaudit,

Cujus Terra laudes audit,

Aspicit, et predicat.

Parvuli triennis ore

Pontificali decore

Ornandus asseritur,

Angelo docente Dei,

Celo missa salus ei,

In genu edocetur.

Pene mersos in profundo,

Prece sancta, corde mundo,

Litteri restituit.

Animam ad Celos vebi

Aidani, Viri Dei,

Cernere promeruit.

Panes nivei candoris

De supernis dedit oris

Tribus allatoribus celitus,

Quos per Angelum de Celis,

Ministrari vir fidelis,

Applaudit meditullitus.

Bellue dum de profundis,

Gradiuntur maris undis,

Illi dant obsequia.

Futuri diem sereni,

Predicit sermone leni,

Vi precludens noxia.

Lympham sibi Deus dedit,

Heremita quo resedit,

Ex humi duritia.

Regem cito moriturum,

Seque Presulem futurum

Certa dat indicia.

Quem ab arbore cadentem,

Celos vidit ascendentem

Ejus narrant premia.

Christi mysticis resectus

Sacramentis, et protectus,

Transit ad celestia.

Sunt miracula perplura,

Obsistente que Natura

Per hunc fiunt inclyta.

Hec ad laudem Dei crescunt,

Ablati nec delitescunt

Sancti Viri merita.

Integris in Urna pannis,

Quadrigentis decem annis

Et octo dormierunt:

Nec putredo, nec vetustas,

Imo splendor, et venustas

Illum circum diderunt.

Caput tuum, Rex Oswalde!

(Vir dilecte Deo valde)

Hec Theca servaverat;

Et Bede sancti Doctoris,

Qui celestis est odoris,

Ossa recondiderat.

Fragrans odor Balsamorum

Hos perfundit supernorum

Qui presentes aderant:

Qui in carne Dei virum

Incorruptum (dictu mirum!)

Cernere meruerant.

Odor ergo nos celestis

Comat moribus honestis;

Ut fruamur Celi festis

In Sanctorum Gloria.

AMEN."

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*
Anno incarnationis Dominicae sexcentesimo septuagesimo sexto, qui est annus imperii Regis Ecgfridi sextus, cum vir Domini Cuthbertus in Lindisfarnensis monasterii prioratu duodecimum & eo amplius annum transegisset: tandem comitante praefati Abbatis sui simul & fratrum gratia, Anachoreticae quoque contemplationis secreta silentia petiit.

Sym. Dunelm.

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†

Est locus insignis flu, super ostia Tini,

Ex imio jam tunc monachorum examine pollens.

Cuthbertus fit socius monachorum.

Fit monachis socius, quos Lindisfarnea glanci

Insula clara maris refluis, circumluit undis.

Tandem Farne petit senior, cupitisque potitus

Sedibus, indigenas patria fugat impiger atros,

Illa prius nam honens larvalibus insula flabris

Arcebat humana minis consortia caecis.

Bede. Lel. Col.

Ubi vero talia vir Domini promeruerat, est insula Farne, quae hinc altissimo, inde infinito clauditur oceano, tunc aquae prorsus inops, frugis quoque & arboris, malignorum etiam spirituura frequentia humanae habitationi minus accommoda.

Sym. Dunelm.

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‡
Bede says the cell of St. Cuthbert was surrounded with a trench: perhaps the meaning is by a fence of earth.
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§

Verum, illo quoque virum Dei comitante miraculorum gloria, de rupe saxosa precibus fontem elicuit, de tellure durissima segetem produxit, hoste antiquo cum satellitum turba fugato, locum ipsum habitabilem fecit. Postquam enim inhabitator sancti Spiritus suam ibidem habitationem instituit, in tantum Spiritus nequam deinceps ipsam insulam exhorruit, ut qui eam Christo famulaturus ingreditur, nullas ex phantasiis Daemonum inquietudines sustinere dicatur.

Sym. Dunelm.

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‖
Bede's account of this growing corn, like the miracles of those days, is reconciled by the simple rules of nature.
He desired to have wheat brought him, and tools to till the ground, and when he had prepared the land with infinite labour, and sown it in due season, in the summer there appeared neither blade or ear: when he was again visited by his brethren, he required of them barley for seed, and having sowed it in the same field out of all sowing season, and without hope of fruit, there grew up an abundant crop, &c.

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*
In this dreary solitude St. Cuthbert remained several years, during which time he had a variety of combats with the devil, the print of whose feet is, it is said, to be seen in many places. If any persons out of devotion came to visit him, he retired to his cell, and discoursed with them only through his window. Once indeed to oblige a Lady, the Abbess of Coldingham, he paid her a visit at the Isle of Coquet, where going down to the sea shore, as was his custom every night, two sea monsters presented themselves kneeling before him, as if to demand his benediction, which having received, they returned to the deep.

Grose.

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*
Hume's Eassays. Nat. Hist. of Religion, vol. 2. p. 469.
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*
Cuthbertus in Synodo apud Twiford juxta Alne flu. a Theodoro Archiepiscopo cantaur: in episcopum Lindisfar. electus est.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 327.

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*

Haec quae sequuntur de Episcopis Hagulstalden decerpta sunt ex libro superiori de Episcopis Eboracensibus.

Expulso Wilfrido ab Echerto rege Northumbr. Eata succeffit ad Hagustaldensem Episcop. adjecta preterea sede Lindisfarnensi, et utramq. sedem 3 annis tenuit. Sed postea ad solam Lindisdar, remanfit, & ad Hagustaldensem ordinatus est pro eo Tumbertus. Cui cum 3 annis praefuisset depositus est, & S. Cuthbertus pro eo subrogatus. Sed quia ille maluit ei praefici in qua conversatus fuerat, Eata reverso ad Hagustaldensem, ad quam primo ordinatus fuerat, Cuthbertus ad Lindisfar, ordinatur, quam 2 annis regent, ad insulam Farne postea rediens solitariam vitam in sancta conversatione usque ad mortem duxit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 338.

Qui cum multis legatariis ac litteris ad se praemissis nequaquam suo loco posset erui, tandem Rex ipse praefatus una cum sanctissimo Antistite Trumwino, nec non & aliis religiosis ac potentibus viris ad insulam navigavit. Conveniunt & de ipsa insula Lindisfarnensi in hoc ipsum multi de fratribus, genuflectunt omnes, adjurant per Dominum, lachrymas fundunt, obsecrant, donec ipsum quoque lachrymis plenum dulcibus extrahunt latebris atque ad Synodum pertrahunt, &c.

Cum ergo per novem annos in solitaria vita soli Deo vacasset, in Pontificatus honorem auctore Deo levatur, consecratus Eboraci VII. Kalendas Aprilis in ipso die sancto Paschae, sub presentia Regis Ecgfridi, convenientibus ad consecrationem ejus septem Episcopis, in quibus beatae memoriae Theodorus ordinator ejus primatum tenebat, anno Dominicae incarnationis 685, regni autem Ecgfridi XII. Electus est autem primo in episcopatum Hagustaldensis ecclesiae pro Tunberto qui ab episcopatu fuerat depositus; sed quoniam plus Lindisfarnensi ecclsiae, in qua conversatus fuerat, dilexit praefici, placuit, ut Eata reverso ad sedem ecclesiae Hagustaldensis cui regendae primo fuerat ordinatus Cuthbertus ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis gubernacula susciperet.

Sym. Dunelm.

The effigies of St. Cuthbert was placed at the south door of the quire of Durham cathedral, with this incription: Sanctus Cuthbertus Monachus, Episcopus Lindisfarnensis nunc patronus Ecclesiae et Civitatis ac Libertatis Dunelm. cujus corpus post 418 annos sepulturae suae incorruptum et flexibile, dormienti quam mortuo similius est inventum, & sic vitam intimeratam commendat corporis incorrupto.

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*

Dedit ei Rex Ecfridus in Civitate Eboraco a muro Ecclesiae S. Petri usque ad magnam portam versus occidentem, & a muro ipsius Ecclesiae usque ad murum civitatis versus austrum. Villam quoque crecam, et tria in circuitu milliaria, ut iens Eboracum vel rediens haberet mansionem ubi requiescere posset, ubi monachorum stationem instituit.

Et quia illa terra minus sufficiens erat, Lugubaliam, que Luel vocatur, in circuitu 15 milliaria habentem in augmentum suscepit, ubi sanctimonialium congregatione stabilita reginam dato habitu religionis consecravit, & scholas ibidem instituit.

At Ecfridus Rex eodem anno, quo consecratus est Cuthbertus cum max. parte sui exercitus in terra Pictorum secundum viri Dei prophetiam, extinctus est apud Nathanesmere, quod est stagnum Nethani, anno regni sui 15, cujus corpus in Hii insula Columbae sepultum est.

Cuthbertus vixit in Episcopatu duos annos & menses aliquot.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 327, 328.

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†
This association of Monks and Nuns is said to be grounded on the words of our Saviour, John xix. 26, 27.
↵

*

He directed by his last will, that his body should be buried at the east end of the oratory, in a stone coffin given him by the holy Tuda, and wrapped up in a sheet presented him as a token by Virca Abbess of Tynemouth, which out of reverence to that holy woman he had never used: and lastly, if the island should be invaded by Pagans, he ordered the Monks to fly from them, and carry his bones away with them. These directions were none of them performed, his body was transported to Lindisfarn, where in St. Peter's church, at the right side of the high altar, he was solemnly laid in a tomb of stone; but the Monks left behind them the coffin for which he expressed such regard, which still continues to be shewn at Farne Island, and it is highly probable they were not more mindful of the sheet

Grose.

↵

†

In the Philosophical Transactions a curious painting of St. Cuthbert is described, found neer Ashelney, in Somersetshire. The portrait is enamelled on gold, drawn sitting in an episcopal chair, with the following inscription: ‘AELFRED MEL HETT GEWYRLAN.’

Thus construed: Alfredus me jussit fabricari.

Mr Wallis speaking of this portrait, has the following remarks. ‘King Alfred preferred these characters to the Saxon, and when he swayed the scepter, brought them in use. This curious memorial of St. Cuthbert was found in the very place of that glorious Monarch's retreat and deliverance from the Danes, fortified by him in the time of war, and in time of peace converted into a monastery. Dr. Musgrave thinks this curious Cimolium an undeniable instance of the use of images coming from the heathens into the christian church.’

St. Cuthbert's shrine had the privilege of sanctuary, where fugitives were safe for 37 days. This respite allowed criminals a time for making restitution, or under the feudal laws they would have suffered immediate pains and punishments: it was the process by which the rigour of common law was moderated; and when kept in due restraint was of great benefit to mankind: but by an enormous extension which took place, it produced infinite mischiefs to the community and to the state.

↵

*

Cujus corpus in sepulchro beati patris Cuthberti ponentes apposuerunt de super arcam in qua incorrupta ejusdem patris membra locaverunt.

Sym. Dunelm.

His effigies was placed at the south door of the quire of the cathedral church at Durham, with this inscription: Ss Eadbertus monachus septimus Episcopus Lindisfarnensis: Vir, sapientia divinarum scripturarum & observantia praeceptorum caelestium, ac maxime operatione Eleemosynarum insignis; corpus Si Cuthberti, post undecim sepulturae suae annos, incorruptum & flexibile inventum, absque laesione pannorum, quibus erat involutum, de terra juslevari, et Theca reconditum super pavimentum veneratione dignum locari, in cujus sepulchro idem Eadbertus sepultus erat, sed in ultima translatione corporis Si Cuthberti ejus reliqiae cum sancto corpore sunt repositae, & in hac Dunelmensi ecclesia adhuc servatae.

Eadbertus post annum ab obitu Cutheberti ordinatus est in Episcopum Lindisfarn. Hic Cuthberti corpus post IIm. annum ejus obitus transtulit. Obiit Eadbertus 10 Episcop. sui anno qui fuit, A. D. 698, sepultus est Lindisfarn. unacum Cutheberto.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 370.

↵

†
His effigies was placed at the south door of the quire of Durham cathedral, with this inscription: Ss Eadfridus de habitu monachali octavus Episcopus Ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis; hujus hortatu venerabilis Beda Presbyter, & monachus girvensis vitam Si Cuthberti, tam in metro quam in prosa compofuit: cujus Ossa in arca cum corpore Si Cuthberti sunt inventa, & in hac ecclesia Dunelmensi conservata.
↵

*
A curious specimen of one of the finely illuminated pages of this work is given in the Antiquarian Repository.
↵

†

‘Praedictus itaque reverentissimus Pontifex Eadfridus, multum fervens amore sui predecessoris beati Cuthberti, oratorium in suae anachoreticae conversationis insula, longa jam vetustate dissolutum, a fundamentis restauravit.’

Sym. Dunelm.

Eadfridus successit. Hic oratorium S. Cuthberti in Farne restauravit, Felgildo tunc in vita solitaria post Ethelwoldum conversante. Fuerat Ethelwoldus Monachus Ripensis, & mortuo Cuthberto in Farne 12 an. exegit, postea sepultus Lindisfarn.

Eadfridus exactis in Episcopo 24 ann. obiit & sepultus est Lindisfarn.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 370.

↵

*

His effigies was placed at the south door of the quire of Durham cathedral, with this inscription: Ss Ethelwoldus de habitu monachali nonus Episcopus Ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis; hic primo religiosae vitae Abbas et Presbyter monasterii Mailrosensis, & quondam B. Cuthberti dignus minister erat, ac Episcopus consecratus sanctissime vixit et obiit; cujus Ossa cum corpore Si Cuthberti inventa, & in hac ecclesia in scrinio sunt reposita.

Ethelwoldus successit Eadfrido. Presbiter hic Mailrosen. monaster. & quondam S. Cuthberti minister fuit. Fererat iste de Lapide crucem artificis opere expoliri, & in sui memoriam in ea nomen sui exarari. Cujus summitatem multo post tempore dum ipsam Eccl. Lindisfarn. pagani devastarent, fregerunt. Sed postea artificis ingenio reliquiae parti infuso plumbo, ipsa fractura est adjuncta: semperque deinceps cum corpore S. Cuthberti crux ipsa circumferri solebat, & a populo Northumbr. propter utrumque sanctum in honore haberi, quae etiam usque hodie in Dunelmensis Eccl. caemiterio stans sublimis utrorumque pontificum intuentibus exhibit monumentum.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 370.

↵

†
Ceolwulphus anno reg. sui 9o. fit monachus Lindisfarn.—Ibid.
↵

‡

Sym. Dunelm. c. 16.

Ceolwulphus olim Rex, postea in Lindisfarnensi ecclesia Monachus caelesti regno militavit. Cujus corpus postea delatum in ecclesiam Northam multis ibidem, ut fertur ab habitatoribus, miraculis claruit. Hoc rege, jam monacho facto, efficiente, data est Lindisfarnensis ecclesiae Monachis licentia bibendi vinum vel cerevisam. Ante enim non nisi Lac et aquam bibere solebant.

Ibid. p. 172.

‘He procured an improvement in the living of the Monks, gaining the use of ale and wine in the room of water and milk, which were the only liquors they had been permitted to use by the rule of their founder Aidan. In this retreat he spent the last 22 years of his life, and acquired on his death the title of Saint.’

Hoveden, Bede Con.

↵

§

Ceolwulphus dedit monaster. Lindisfarn. Brigesne & Werceworde alias Werkworth, cum suis appendeciis, simul et eccl. quam ibi aedificaverat, alias quoque 4 villas, videlicet, Undecester alias Wodecester, Hwytingham, Eadulfingham, & Egwulfingham. Hi sunt termini donat praedictae ab aqua quae vocatur Lina usque ad Cocwnda; inde ad Civitatem quae vocatur Brincewel, & a Cocwnda usque ad Hafodshelf versus orientem, & ab Alna usque ad dimidiam viam inter Cocwnda & Alna.

Ceolwulphus primo sepultus Lindisfarm postea ad Norham ab Egfrido episcopo translatus.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 370.

Edelridus Rex Merciorum—Kenredus successor Ethelredi, Cedwalla Rex Westsax.—&Ine successor ejus—Sigebertus Rex Estangl.—Sebbi Rex Estsax. monachalem habitum assumpserunt: quorum exemplum secutus est Ceolwolphus & regnum deliquit, &c.

Ibid. p. 213.

Osia sanctorum Bedae & Ceoluulphi regis, qui apud Lindisfarnum monachus, & sanctus fuerat, in singulis saccis lineis reperta.

Ibid. p. 261.

↵

*
Turgot represents this matter somewhat different. He was charged (he says) for suffering Offa, after almost perishing by hunger in the sanctuary of St. Cuthbert, whither he had fled for refuge, to be carried away from it by unarmed foes, who afterwards put him to a cruel death. The King thus provoked, beset St. Peter's church, seized the Bishop, and detained him a prisoner in Bambrough, committing the administration of his See to Fredbert Bishop of Hexham, until Cynewolf, having made his peace with him, was restored.—L. 2. ch. 2.
↵

†
Symeon Dunelm. ch. 17.
↵

‡

Cinewolphus episcopus Lindisfar. 41 anno sui episcop. senio confectus vices suas Higbaldo delegavit, & 3 annos postea vixit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 328.

↵

*

Elfwoldus Rex 6 anno episcop. Higbaldi interfectus est apud Scitelecestre juxta murum. Sepultus est autem in Hagustaldensi ecclesia.

Anno sequente dum pagani portum Ecgfridi regis, hoc est Girvi, vastantes monasterium ad ostium Tini amnis depraedarentur, dux eorum ibidem crudeli nece interiit.

Eodem tempore depopulata est ecclesia Lindisfar.

Higbaldus expletis in pontificatu Lindisfar. annis 22 obiit, cuit successit Ecbertus.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 328.

DCCXCIIIo.

Sigga dux, qui interfecit Elfwaldum regem, interiit propria nece, corpus corpus ad insulam Lindisfarnen. Prelatum est IXo. Cal. Maii Lindisfarnensis insula magna est, per ambitum, verbi gratia, octo, vel amplius, milliariis fe extendens: in qua est nobile monastarium, quo eximius Cuthbertus antistes positus erat, cum aliis presulibus, qui ejus successores dignissimi extiterant, de quibus convenienter dici potes quod canitur, "corpora sanctorum in pace sepulta sunt."

Ibid. vol. 2. p. 173.

Higebaldi Episcopi tempore Dani depopulati sunt Lindisfarnensem insulam, ut nec sacrosanctis parcerent altaribus. Tunc corpus Sancti Cuthberti quidam Hubbenford deposuere juxta amnem Tuedam, ubi jacuit multis annis usque ad adventum Edredi regis.

Ibid. p. 325.

DCCXCIIIo.

Eodem sane anno pagani ab aquilonali climate navali exercitu, ut aculeati crabrones, Britanniam venientes, hac illacque, ut dirissimi lupi, currentes praedantes, mordentes, interficientes non solum jumenta, boves et oves, verum etiam sacerdotes. Levitas, choros monachorum, atque sanctimonialum. Veniunt, ut praefati sumus, ad Lindisfarnensem ecclesiam, miserabili praedatione, vastant cuncta, calcant sancta pollutis vestigiis, altaria suffodiunt, et omnia thesauraria sanctae ecclesiae rapuint. Quosdam e fratribus interficiunt, nonnullos secum vinctos assumunt, perplurimos, opprobriis vexatos, nudos projiciunt, aliquos in mare demergunt, &c.

Ibid. p. 173.

Ex Epistola Albini ad fratres Lindisfarnensis ecclesiae & Higebaldum Episcopum.

Vestrae tribulationis calamitas licet absentem multum me quotidie contristat, quando Pagani contaminaverunt sanctuaria Dei, & fuderunt sanguinem sanctorum in circuitu altaris, vastaverunt domum spei nostrae, calcaverunt corpora sanctorum in templo Dei quasi sterquilinium in platea. Quid nobis dicendum est, nisi plangendum animo nobiscum ante altare Christi & dicere, ‘Parce, domine, parce populo tuo, & ne des hereditatem tuam gentibus, ne dicant Pagani, ubi est deus Christianorum.’ Quae est fiducia ecclesiis Britaniae si Sanctus Cuthbertus cum tanto sanctorum numero non defendit. Aut hoc initium majoris est doloris, aut peccata habitantium hoc exegerunt. Non equidem casu contigit, sed magni cujus libet meriti indicium est. Sed modo qui residui estis state viriliter, pugnate fortiter, defendite castra Dei. Mementote Judam Macchabeum, qui templum Dei purgavit, & populum a servitute liberavit extranea.

Et tu, pater sancte, dux populi Dei, pastor gregis sancti, medicus animarum, lucerna super candelabrum posita, esto forma in omni bonitate omnibus te videntibus. Esto praeco salutis cunctis te audientibus. Sit tuus comitatus honestibus moribus, aliis exemplum ad vitam, non ad perditionem.

Cum Dominus noster Rex Carolus hostibus per Dei miserecordiam subditis domum reverteretur, nos Deo juvante ad illum ire disponimus, & si quid tunc vel de pueris, qui in captivatem a paganis subducti sunt, vel de aliis quibusque necessitatibus vestris vestrae sanctitati proficere possumus, diligenter ad effectum perducere curabimus.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 394.

↵

*

‘Haec de ipsa insula; cujus cladem & aliorum quoque Sanctorum necem futuram presignantia, horrenda fulmina & dracones igneis jactibus per aera vibrantes & volitantes videbantur. Mox eodem anno Pagani ab aquilonali climate navali exercitu Britanniam venientes, hac illicque discurrentes, praedantes, interficiunt non solum jumenta, verum etiam Sacerdotes, Levitasque, Chorosque, Monachorum atque Sanctimonialium. Veniunt VII Iduum Juniarum ad Lindisfarnensem ecclesiam, miserabili praedatione cuncta vastant, sancta pollutis vestigiis calcant, altaria suffodiunt, omnia thesauraria ecclesiae rapiunt. Quosdam e fratribus interficiunt nonnullos secum vinctos assumunt, plurimos opprobriis vexatos nudos projiciunt, aliquos in mare demergunt.’

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

†
Higbaldus completis in episcop. annis 22 octavo Cal. Jun. vita defunctis est anno D. 804.
↵

‡

Egbertus successit Higbaldo, & consecratus est ab Eanbaldo Archiepiscopo, & Eanberto & Badulpho, aliis quoque Episcopis in loco qui dicitur Bignelle. 3 Non. Jun.

Tempore hujus Egberti praedaverunt Northumb. & monasterium Ecfridi spoliaverunt apud dunemuthe: quo tempore occurrentibus Anglorum nobiliss: Dani partim interfecti, partim ad naves fugati sunt.

Obiit Egbertus eractis in Episcop. 18 annis A. D. 822.

↵

*
His effigies was placed at the north door of the quire of Durham cathedral, and had the following inscription: Ecgredus de habitu monachali decimus quartus Episcopus Lindisfarnensis; hic Vir natu nobilis dedit So Cuthberto ecclesiam de Norham quem redificavit; villam quoque de Hedworth cum appendiciis; ecclesiam quoque & villam de Geynford & quicquid ad eam pertinet.
↵

†
Heathuredus Egberto succedens novem annis eccl. rexit. Obiit autem A. D. 831.
↵

‡

Hathuredo post novem annos mortuo successit Egredus 22o. anno Eanredi regis. Hic ecclesiam S. Cuthberti rebus & terris locupletare studuit. In Norham ecclesiam construxit in hone S. Petri Apostoli, S. Cuthberti, nec non Ceolwolphi regis & monachi cujus corpus eo transtulit, ipsamque villam & Gedeworde, ecclesiamque quam construxerat in Geneforde, & quicquid ad eam pertinet a flu. Teisa, usque ad Weor flu. S. Cuthberto contulit: Ilecliff Wigcliff, sed et Billingham in Hertenesse, quarum ipse conditor fuerat.

Egredus Episcopus completis in officio 16 annis obiit, (A. D. 847) cui successit Eanbertus, qui Episcop. 8 annis praefuit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 328.

↵

§
His effigies was placed at the north door of the quire of Durham cathedral, with the following inscription: Eardulphus de habitu monachali decimus sextus & ultimus Episcopus ecclesiae Lindisfarnensis. Hic Vir magni meriti erat; audito adventu Danorum Paganorum, ille et Edridus Abbas tollentes secum corpus Si Cuthberti ecclesiam Lindisfarnensem reliquerum post anno 241 ex quo se
•
es episcopalis cum caetu monachali ibidem erat instituta, A. gratiae 875, & de loco ad locum fugientes per septennium rabiem Danorum, tandem reportaverunt dictum corpus in Cestriam in strata, ubi per centem & tredecim annos dictum corpus & sedes episcopalis permanserunt.

↵

*
There is the greatest improbability in this relation, touching the massacre of Ebba and her Nuns. In the time of Ebba who was of royal race, the society consisted of Monks and Nuns; and she was dead before St. Cuthbert was consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarn, and made the regulation noted in regard to the female sex.—The reader will correct the note at p. 120. If the name of the Abbess of Coldingham, at the time of this descent of the Danes, was Ebba, it could not be Ebba daughter of Edilfrid King of Northumberland.
↵

†
Chron. Sax. Sym. Dunelm. &c.
↵

‡

Halfdeni ducis Danorum adventu cognito, Eardulphus Episcopus Lindisfar▪ accito Eadredo viro sancto, abbate monasterii quod S. Cuthbertus in urbe Luel construxerat, nomine Luliso, habito inter se concilio, tollentes incorruptum S. Cuthberti corpus, & una cum eo in ejusdem thecae loculo sanctorum reliquias, & caput S. Oswaldi martyr: ante in ejusdem ecclesiae caemiterio sepultum, partemque ossium Aidani, nec non & venerabilium episcoporum ossa. Eadberti, Ealfridi, Ethelwoldi, Lindisfar. ecclesiam barbaros fugiendo relinquunt, &c. ut passim vagati sint cum reliquiis & intrautes Derwentae flu. ostia, post metum naufragii pervenerint ad candidam Casam, alias Witernam dictam. Episcopus vero cum S. Corpore in Monasterio Creca a S. Cuthberto constituto 4 Mensibus residebat.

Sopitis itaque procellis perturbationem sedes Episcop. quae usque tunc in Lindisfar. insula fuit, in Cuncacestre restauratur, incorruptum corpus sancti illuc transfertur; simul & qui Deo ibidem servirent institutis.

Obiit Eardulphus Episcopus anno 18 ex quo Sanctum Cuthberti corpus in Cunecacestre translatum fuerat, sui vero Episcop. anno 46.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 328.

↵

*

The legendary tales of St. Cuthbert's miracles during his life time, must give place to those after his death.

King Alfred for the first six years was greatly distressed by the Danish invasions: he was at last reduced to the necessity of seeking his safety for a considerable time in an obscure and inaccessible retreat, among the Marshes of Somersetshire. Having there collected a few chosen troops, he issued out unexpectedly on the enemy, and obtained a glorious victory. Guthurn, one of the Danish Chieftains who was taken prisoner, was persuaded by Alfred to embrace the christian religion, and his example influenced his adherents. After which he was raised by Alfred to the throne of the East Angles, as a dependent Prince, under the Saxon Monarchy. Whilst Alfred endured great distress in his retreat, he was comforted by a vision of this Saint, who promised him the success he afterwards experienced: from hence Alfred was inspired with great veneration for him. The body of Danes which had settled in Northumberland having lost their Chieftain Haldan, remained some time without a leader. Eadred the Abbot of Lindisfarn, who, together with his Bishop, was still flying from one retreat to another with their sacred charge, assured the Bishop and the whole army of Danes and English, that the Saint had appeared to him in a vision, and expressed his command to them to redeem from slavery Guthred the son of Hardiknut, a youth sold by the Danes to a widow at Whittingham, and make him their King. The injunction was received with enthusiastic reverence, and piously obeyed. Guthred was crowned at York, and ruled over the southern departments of the Northumbrian kingdom. Soon after his accession, Guthred, in gratitude to the Saint, gave all the county between Tyne and Tees to the Bishopric, then settled at Chester. And King Alfred, from a like principle, confirmed the donation.

↵

*
Bishop Tanner's Notit. Monast.
↵

†

Interjecto tempore aliquanto, gens Scottorum innumerabili exercitu coadunato, inter caetera suae crudelitatis facinora Lindisfarnense monasterium seviens & rapiens invasit. Contra quos dum Rex Guthredus, per Sanctum Cuthbertum confortatus, pugnaturus staret, subito terra dehiscens hostes vivos omnes absorbuit, renovato ibi miraculo antiquo, quando aperta est terra & degluttivit Dathan, & operuit super congregationem Abiron. Qualiter autem gestum sit alibi constat esse scriptum.

Sym. Dunelm. l. 2. c. 13.

↵

*

Eardulphus successit; cujus pontific: anno 22 destructa per Danos Lindisfarn. eccl. sedes episcopalis, & congregatio Monach. quae ibidem annis 141 duraverant, cessaverunt. A. D. 875 adveniente Halfden Dano, Osbertus Werkworth, & Tilemuth, Ellavero Billyngham, Ycliffe & Wicclif, crecam quoque sacrilego ausu S. Cutheberto abripuerunt. Quo etiam anno Angl. Reges, qui annis 321o. regnaverunt in Northumbr. desierunt imperare per annos 51. Depopulationi namque servitutique errundem Paganorum absque rege octo annis subjacebant: et ex tunc Danici generis reges regnare caeperunt.

Monachi Lindisfarn. per septennium discurrebant cum corpore S. Cutheberti.

S. Cuthebertus apparuit regi Aluredo.

Corpus S. Cutheberti ab Eadulpho episcopo & Eadredo abbate delatum ad crecam, ibique ab abbate, cui nomen erat Gene, benigne suscepti velut in proprio 4 Mensibus residebant.

Guthredus, Hardeknuti regis filius, a paganis in Angl. ductus, & audam viduae in Witingham in servum venditus, miraculoso S. Cutheberti admonitu in regem elevatus est.

Guthredus Rex Northumbr. & Alfredus Rex Westsax. adjecerunt totam terram inter Tesam & Tinam in augmentum episc. S. Cutheberti. Haec donatio facta est anno 13. reg. Alfredi, anno autem Di. 883.

Tunc caedes episc. quae fuit in Lindisfarn. restauratur in Conechester, quo à Creca translatum est corpus S. Cutheberti.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 372.

Aldunus Elfsigo successit, qui oraculo admonitus ut rabiem in Danorum declinaret, tulit secum corpus S. Cutheberti, & usque ad Ripon pervenit, anno 113 ex quo in Cunecacestre locatum fuerat. Pace post 4 Menses reddita, assumpto secum corpore sancto, ut ad priorem locum illud reportaret, cum prope Dunelmum ad orientalem plagam in locum qui Wardelaw dicitur advenissent, vehiculum, quo sanctum corpus techa ferebatur, ulterius moveri non poterat, sed velut mons quidam immobile permansit, &c. ut corpus Dunelmum postea perductum. Quod non fecisset, facta de virgis ecclesiola ibidem corpus ad tempus locaverunt. Erat namque Dunelmum locus quidem natura munitus, sed non facile habitabilis, quem densiss. undique sylva totum occupavit. Episcopus vero auxilio Uthredi comitis totam extirpans Sylvam locum in brevi habitabilem fecit, ecclesiam construxit, & in illam corpus sanctum transtulit anno, ex quo sedes episcop. ab Oswaldo & Aldano in Ins. Lindisfarn. fuit instituta 361.

Ibid. p 330.

Lindisfarne Ins. alias dicta sacra insula, habuit olim nobile Coenobium, ubi etiam erat sedes episcopalis, in qua floruit Sanctus Cuthbertus. Sed vi Scotica primo spoliatum, deinde a Danis prorsus deletum. Monachi vero & provinciales, miserti tantarum calamitatum, reliquias S. Cuthberti Castrum detulerunt, quod media via positum est inter Dunholmum & Novum Castellum, ibique, tanquam in episcopali sede, requievere centum & tredecim annis. Postea orta per bellum ibidem novacalamitate, translatae sunt Cuthberti reliquiae Riponam, ubi cum ad tempusculum requievissent, caeperunt monachi cogitare, temporibus jam serenis, de reportandis Cuthberti reliquiis castrum. Sed cum monachi comitantibus multis provincialibus, sanctum feretrum Dunholmum usque perduxissent, feretrum adeo immobile fuit, ut nulla prorsus vi inde amoveri potuerit. Provinciales, rei novitatem admirantes, posuerunt ibidem reliquias in porticu, quae nunc Alba porticus appellatur. Hic manfere donec magnifica & nova basilica consummata fuit. Tandem vero propter princeps altare cum magna celebritate positae sunt.

Ibid. v. 4. p. 40.

↵

*
Sym. Dunel.—Hoveden.
↵

†

Cospatricius comes Northumbr. hoc maxime concilium dedit, ut fugientes eccl. Dunelmen. relinquerent: & ipse max. ejus ornamentorum partem secum abduxerat.

Cospatricius postea nudis pedibus incidens ad insulam ubi S. corpus Cuthberti fuerat, veniam eorum, quae in eum deliquerat, precibus & muneribus petivit.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 381.

↵

‡

The donations to the church of Durham were immense:

- Carlisle and a district of 15 miles round by Egsrid.

- All the district between Tyne and Tees by Guthred and Alfred, A. D. 883.

- Staindrop and Raby by Canute.

- South Wearmouth, in the county of Durham, together with 11 villages, by Ethelstan.

- The Lordship of Darlington, in the county of Durham, by a Nobleman whose name was Slire.

- The Lordships of Braaburg, Morden, and Griseby were given by one Swaculph.

- King William II. gave North Allerton, where Bishop Pudsey built a palace.

- Sadberge was purchased of King Richard by Pudsey and annexed to the See, from whence the temporalities of an Earl are derived by the Bishops of Durham.

- Jarrow was given by Bishop Walcher.

- South Yoden was given by Tillered Abbot of Heffereham.

- Norham by Bishop Egfrid.

- Chester-le-street by King Egfrid.

The form of one of the Grants may be agreeable to the reader in this place.

In nomine Patris & Filii & Spiritus Sancti Amen. Anno Dominicae incarnationis 685 Congregata synodo juxta flu. Alne in loco qui dicitur Twiford, cui Theodorus Archiepiscopus Durovernensis praesiuebat, cum Cuthbertus multis legatariis ad se premissis nequaquam posset suo loco erui, tandem ego Ecfridus Rex Northumbr. cum antistite Trumwino, & aliis religiosis viris insulam navigavi, & invitum ad synodum pertraxi, ubi omnium jussione episcopatus officium suscipere compellitur: cui et omnibus successoribus suis cum consilio Theodori Archiepiscopi, & Trumwini, & totir• concilii pro salute animae meae, & omnium successorum meorum, donavi villam quae vocatur Creec & 3 millia in circuitu ipsius villae. Donavi etiam civitatem quae vocatur Lugubalia, & in circuitu ejus quindecim milliaria, ut haec tam ipse quam successores sui ad Dei servitium in perpetuum habeant, ita sicut ego habui libera & quieta, & secundum suam voluntatem disponenda.

Ego Theodorus Archiepiscopus Durovernensis subscripsi

Ego Bosa Episcopus subscripsi

Ego Cedde orientalium Saxonum Episcopus subscripsi

Ego Sexuif Merciorum Episcopus subscripsi

Ego Trumwin Pictorum Episcopus subscripsi

Ego Ceadda Lichefeldensis Episcopus subscripsi

Ego Eadhed Lindissy Episcopus subscripsi.

Haec donat. scripta est tempore Agathonis Episcopi Ro. anno aetatis Ecfridi 40 regui vero ejus 15o.

↵

*
Inde Eboracenses Lindisfarnem insulam vastantes multos occiderunt.—Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 185.
↵

†

Scottorum Rex Malcolinus sui conjurati fratris Tostii comitatum, i. e. Northumbriam, fortiter depopulator, violata pace S. Cuthberti in Eiland.

Ibid. v. 2. p. 194.

↵

*
Whart. Ang. Sac. v. 1. p. 710.—Symeon Dunelm. p. 63. &c. &c.
↵

HAGGERSTON,

covered with a fine grove. Here is an old tower, memorable for being the place where King Henry II. A. D. 1311, received the homage of Thomas Earl of Lancaster. This is an ancient mansion of the family of Haggerstons, whose possession we find recorded in the escheats of King Edward I. the present proprietor Sir Carnaby Haggerston.[*]

The church of

Notes

*

- John Haggerston King Henry III.

- Sir Thomas, created a Baronet 19 King Charles I. was Colonel in the famous Northumberland regiment.

- Sir Thomas, Governor of Berwick.

- Sir Carnaby.

- Sir Thomas.

- Sir Carnaby

Wallis.

↵

KYLOE

graces the distant prospect.[†] Kyloe the residence of Eustace de Kiley, in the reign of King Edward I.

Notes

†

In the former part of the reign of King Henry VIII. the buckles, barrs, and studs of a Knight's belt, and a pommel and cross for a sword, and buckles and studs for spurs, all of gold, were found between two stones here. They came into the possession of Dr Ruthal Bishop of Durham.

Leland's Itin. vol. 7.

↵

FENWICK and BEAL

were also in view; the latter of which places, it is said, was for some time honoured by the residence of, and takes its name from, the famous Irish female Saint Begogh. [‡]

We approached

Notes

‡
This is the patroness of Kirby Begegh and Beal, in Yorkshire.—Life of Grindad.
↵

BELFORD,

a small town, not seated in the most fertile spot in Northumberland, the country being open and unsheltered. The mansion of Abraham Dixon, Esq a modern structure of Pane's architecture, surrounded with pleasure grounds and young plantations, greatly ornament the scene; but the situation is far from eligible, there being none of that rural variety, that elegant simplicity, or its reverse, those wildnesses in nature, which constitute a pleasing country prospect. The hills rise tamely, the inclosures are large and ill wooded, the hamlets are very distantly scattered, and nothing appears singular or attracting upon the whole view, but the Castle of Bambrough and the sea which forms the horizon. Belford was the property of a family of Hepburns, in the reign of King Henry V.

We passed from Belford to

BAMBROUGH,

by Budle, once the possession of the family of Bowes of Streatlam. Near Budle, at a place called Spindleston, [*] is a Danish camp, circular in form, and fortified with a triple ditch and vallum. Two mounts are seen from it, which appear to be out-posts, and not Tumuli as some writers have conjectured. To the westward is another intrenchment, which forms a crescent, and seems not to be the work of the same people who had constructed the former fortifications. It is defended by a triple ditch and vallum, the interior vallum composed of uncemented stones, as was the British custom. This commands a look-out to sea, and has in view the castles of Bambrough and Holy Island. Opposite to this fortification is a square camp, apparently Roman, called Ulchester. The manor of Budle was formerly a member of the Barony of Wooler, and was the possession of Sir Robert de Ulchester, as appears by the escheats of King Edward I. It was forfeited on the attainder of its late owner, Lord Derwentwater, and now makes a part of the appropriations of Greenwich Hospital.

Within a mile lies

Notes

*
The poem of the Laidly Worm of Spindleston Heughs, inserted in the following notes, seems to be of an historic nature, but wrapped up in such dark allegory, the humour of those times, as to render it unintelligible in this age. The fortifications are Danish, and it is probable that the ballad relates to the conflicts of that people, with the garrison of Bambrough.
↵

EDERSTON,

the seat of the late John William Bacon Forster, Esq which descended to him on the extinction of the right line of the family of Forsters, who possessed it for many ages.[†]

We now reached the

Notes

†

- Sir Thomas Forster in the reign of King Henry VIII.

He married Dorothy the daughter of Ralph Lord Ogle.

- Thomas Forster, High Sheriff of Northumberland 6 & 14 Queen Elizabeth.

- Matthew, High Sheriff 18 King James I.

- Thomas He lived in the reigns of King Charles I. & II.

- Thomas, High Sheriff 2 Queen Anne.

- Thomas, died 1763.

- Succeeded by

- John William Bacon, who assumed the name of Forster.

- John Bacon, his great grandfather, High Sheriff 5 King William III.

- William, High Sheriff 1745.

- John, Fellow of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies.

Wallis.

↵

CASTLE of BAMBROUGH,

whose venerable remains give the traveller an idea of the state of palaces and strongholds, in the remotest aera of our Saxon ancestors in Britain. The scite of this fortress is on the crown of a high rock, triangular in figure, one of the points projecting into the sea. Many of the buildings stand on the very brink of the rocks, to the land side: the aspect towards the sea is very lofty, being near 150 perpendicular feet above the level of low water mark. Part of the most ancient fortifications on the land side are broken and defaced, by the falling of the cliffs on which they were erected, the same consisting of a soft red stone, which perishes much by the weather. On this side a circular tower remains, of very antique construction, its base projecting in several tiers. Many of the other buildings appear to be the work of more modern ages, till you approach the gate-way, which is on the only accessible part of the rock; it was defended by a deep ditch, cut through a narrow neck communicating with the main land, having a draw bridge: this lays to the south-east, and on the brink of the precipice above the sea shore. The gate-way is strengthened by a round tower on each side, from whence passing about 12 paces, which space appears to have been formerly a covered way, you approach a second and machicolated gate, of a much more modern order of building, having a port-culice. After you have passed the second gate, on the left hand, on a lofty point of the rock, stands a very ancient round tower, of great strength, commanding the pass. Assailants having won this approach, entered upon a situation of imminent danger on a tremendous precipice, subject to every kind of annoyance from the besieged, who possessed the round tower. This part of the fortress wears the most ancient countenance, and challenges the Saxons for its origin. The ingenious Mr
BAMBROUGH CASTLE

Grose says, ‘this is the spot where, according to the Monkish Historians, stood the castle or palace of the Kings of Northumberland; built, as it said, by King Ida, who began his reign A. D. 559. Part of the present ruins are by some supposed to be the remains of King Ida's work.’—‘On the whole, though there was undoubtedly a fortress or palace here in the Saxon times, and perhaps earlier, every part of the present buildings, seems to have been the work of the Normans.’ On what circumstances Mr Grose grounds this general determination, I cannot discover: most of the northern Norman structures are of excellent masonry; the buildings here are various in figure, materials, modes of arching, windows, bases, and other parts. The round tower I have noted is different in all those matters, from the greatest part of the works; and it is to a common observer marked with much greater antiquity than the Keep or main tower, which I shall next describe. It is impossible to prevent a disagreement in opinion on subjects of this kind; where there is no certain rule to fix determination, it must be the case: I pay the greatest deference to Mr Grose's judgment, but think he has passed this determination hastily. The Keep or chief tower of this fortress is a lofty square structure, of the same model with many Norman fortresses founded in or near the time of the Conqueror; it stands on the crown of the rock, having an open area round it, but most extensive towards the north and north-east points. Mr Wallis says, that from the stile of the architecture of its base, being of the Doric order, it is believed to be of Roman work. He adds, ‘that it is well known the Saxons erected their castles when they could on Roman foundations, and gave them the name of Burg or Brough.’ It is very probable the Romans held this part of the country, to be of singular importance to their navy; but that they built castles here, is not by any means admissible. They might erect small towers, like those whose remains appear on the wall of Severus, on places of special import. I do not doubt the Saxons would enter upon the Roman fortifications, for the same reasons the Normans after them made such choice: the northern counties furnish a multitude of instances that the Normans possessed themselves of such situations; but in those places the Roman vallum and foss only served for outworks to the Norman structures. The remains of the Roman station are visible at many of those fortresses. In most of the places I have observed, the Roman works are retained as a platform or outward area, to the south sides of the castles. In the northern stations, of the largest size, there are no remains of castles. Whether the Saxons or Normans entered upon those places, I do not presume to determine. The scite of the Praetorium is to be traced in many, but without any other appearances, than of erections for domestic uses, not shewing a sufficient quantity of ruins, to give the least idea of a decayed castle. Mr Grose says, ‘some assert the Keep to have been a Roman structure, for which supposition they give the following reasons; its great similarity to the Keep of Dover Castle, and the White Tower of London, both allowed to be Roman —the shape of its arches, which are either flat or semicircular—a Doric base round its bottom, and the great depth of its well, sunk 75 feet, through a whinstone rock.—The first of these is evidently founded on a mistake, neither the White Tower nor the Keep of Dover Castle being Roman, but built since the conquest; the last in the time of King Henry II. proofs of which are to be met with in Dugdale's Monasticon, the Textus Roffensis, and divers other authentic records. Nor is the proof drawn from the shape of its arches more conclusive; semicircular and flat arches are found in almost every building erected before the time of King Henry II. and from the argument deduced from its Doric base, it is not at all wonderful or uncommon, to find the members of Graecian architecture employed in Norman buildings. One instance of this, among many, may be seen at the cathedral of Canterbury, where a massive column, placed in the under-croft, to support some vast weight, has a rude sort of Ionic capital. Besides it is well known most of the architects of those days learned their art at Rome, where they had the Graecian architecture continually before them; of which indeed the Saxon was only a debased kind. After the stupendous works carried on by our Norman ancestors, it seems extraordinary, that the digging of the above-mentioned well should appear so arduous an undertaking, as to be deemed possible to the Romans only. Besides, in Beeston Castle, Cheshire, there is a well full as deep, cut through the solid rock: and that is universally known to be the work of the Normans.’

The following remarks, extracted from the same work, will not be unacceptable to the reader: ‘The stones with which the Keep or great tower is built, are remarkably small, and were taken from a quarry three miles distant. From their smallness it has been conjectured they were brought hither on the backs of men or horses. The walls to the front are 11 feet thick, but the other three sides are only nine. The original roof was placed no higher than the top of the second story. The reason for the side walls being carried so much higher than the roof, might be for the sake of defence, or to command a more extensive look-out, both towards the sea and land. The tower was however afterwards covered at the top. Here were no chimneys, the only fire place in it was a grate in the middle of a large room, supposed to have been the guard room, where some stones in the middle of the floor are burned red. This floor was all of stone, supported by arches. This room had a window in it near the top, three feet square, intended to let out the smoke. All the other rooms were lighted by slits or chinks in the walls, six inches broad. The outworks are built of a very different stone from that of the Keep, being a coarse free stone of an inferior quality, ill abiding the injuries of weather; taken from the rock itself. In all the principal rooms in the outworks there are chimneys, particularly in the kitchen, which measures 40 feet by 30 feet, where there are three very large ones, and four windows; over each window is a stone funnel, like a chimney open at the top, intended as it is supposed to carry off the steam. In a narrow passage near the top of the Keep was found upwards of 50 iron heads of arrows, rusted together into a mass; the longest of them about 7½ inches. In December 1770, in sinking the floor of the cellar, the draw well was accidentally found: its depth is 145 feet, cut through the solid rock, of which 75 feet is of hard whin-stone. In the summer of the year 1773, in throwing over the bank a prodigious quantity of sand, the remains of the chapel were discovered, in length 100 feet. The chancel is now quite cleared, is 36 feet long and 20 feet broad; the east end, according to the Saxon fashion, semicircular. The altar, which has been likewise found, did not stand close to the east end, but in the center of the semicircle, with a walk about it, three feet broad, left for the Priest to carry the Host in procession. The font, richly carved, is also remaining.’

This fortress is by Florigelus, Hoveden, and others, attributed to Ida, [*] and by them esteemed nearly cotemporary with the rise of the kingdom of Northumberland: but there are sufficient grounds to believe that there was a fortress here before Ida's time. It is said the ancient name was Bebbanborough, which Camden, from Bede's authority, imagines was borrowed from a Queen Bebba: but the author of the additions to Camden is of a contrary opinion, as in the Saxon authorities it is called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, implying the royal mansion.[*] Ida by some authors is said to have fortified the rock with a wooden palisado; but others mention his removing the wooden pale and erecting a wall in its place. On the conversion of the Saxons, the chapel, of which the ruins have been lately discovered, was erected within the walls, and dedicated by King Oswald to St. Aidan. Hoveden, who wrote about the year 1192, says, ‘ Bebba is a very strong city, but not exceeding large; containing not more than two or three acres of ground. It has but one hollow entrance into it, which is admirably raised by steps. On the top of the hill stands a fair church; and in the western point is a well, curiously adorned, and of sweet clean water.’ [†]

It is admitted by all writers that Bambrough is of great antiquity, and was a fortress of singular consequence and strength in the early times of the Saxons. It has furnished history with many memorable events.

Penda King of Mercia, still remaining a Pagan, breathed the most inveterate hatred against the Christians: having obtained a victory over King Oswald in Shropshire, in which he treated the royal captive with the most savage barbarity, like a whirlwind he rushed to the destruction of his country. In the year 642, having ravaged Northumberland as far as Bambrough, he laid siege to it, and not being able to take the place by storm, attempted to burn it, by raising huge piles of wood against the walls, and setting them on fire; but when his machines were fully prepared, and his piles were burning, the wind suddenly changed, and blowing a storm, the blazing faggots were carried into his camp, and made a great destruction, insomuch that he was obliged to raise the siege. This deliverance was ascribed, according to the superstition and bigotry of those times, to the prayers of Aidan Bishop of Lindisfarn, who for the sake of greater retirement, and an uninterrupted devotion, was then resident on the Farn Island, afterwards famous for the cell of St. Cuthbert. Oswald's great zeal for the conversion of his people, his bounties to the church, and his suffering under the hand of a Pagan conqueror, procured him the immortal honours of a Saint and Martyr. His arms were preserved as relics in the church at Bambrough, and were believed to remain uncorrupted, through the influence of a blessing pronounced on them by Aidan, whilst doing a singular act of charity.[*]

After the death of Alfred, who had reigned over Northumberland near 20 years, the Crown was usurped by Eardulph, to the prejudice of Osred, Alfred's eldest son, then an infant of the age of eight years. As this act of Eardulph's portended imminent peril to the young Prince, Brithrick, a zealous adherent to Alfred and his family, seized the castle of Bambrough, where he placed Osred. It was not long before the Usurper laid siege to the place; but it was so well defended, as to baffle all his attempts, and his assaults were attended with a succession of ill fortune. Whilst Eardulph remained before the walls, the people in general declared for Osred, and having levied a considerable army, advanced towards the Usurper, who being informed of this unexpected change in the sentiments of the people, prepared to raise the siege and draw off his troops. Brithrick at this instant made a vigorous sally, the adversaries were thrown into confusion and soon routed, Eardulph was taken prisoner, and immediately executed, and Osred ascended the throne of his ancestors, to the great joy of his subjects.

This was the place of Alured's retirement, when he fled from York, to avoid the dangers of civil commotion, having in the ninth year of his reign been deserted by his family and nobles. He was descended of Ida, but through the misery of those times obliged to abdicate the throne of Northumberland, and seek for safety under Cynoth King of the Picts.

In the reign of King Egbert this castle was the prison of Cynewolf Bishop of Lindisfarn: his imprisonment began in 750, and continued for 30 years, being accused as an accomplice in a crime, of which some authors assert he was innocent.

According to Florence of Worcester, Alred, the son of Eardulph, whom Athelstan expelled, (on the death of Sititric, who married Athelstan's sister, and was by him raised to the Northumbrian throne) in the year 926 seized this fortress, and made himself master of the dependent territories, but was soon forced to fly before the arms of Athelstan.

In the descent made by the Danes about the year 933, this fortress suffered greatly, but was soon afterwards restored, and new works were added. It is said a great booty fell into the hands of these invaders, by the reduction of Bambrough.

Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, in his declining years, was disturbed by an incursion of the Scots, under Malcolm their King: he retired to this fortress, whilst his son Uchtred, a valiant youth, raised a few troops to oppose the army of the invader. He gained an advantageous post, and with great bravery made such an attack upon the undisciplined Scots, that they were soon thrown into confusion, and after suffering a dreadful slaughter, made an inglorious conclusion of their invasion, by a precipitate retreat into their own country. Uchtred did not conduct his success with temperance; he sullied his victory with cruelty, inhumanly slaughtering in cold blood, the nobility and officers of rank which were among his prisoners, their heads becoming the horrid furniture of the walls of Durham. King Ethelred overlooked this barbarity, and rewarded his valour by giving him in marriage his daughter Edgiva, with a princely portion; his father resigning his possessions to the young hero, the King added thereto the county of York. The savage barbarity of those times is shocking to humanity; there was seldom a victory obtained in the reciprocal depredations made on the borders, but the utmost cruelty and undistinguished slaughter was the consequence. The warfare itself was infamous; for it was no better than robbing by a Banditti commanded by Kings, who sullied the lustre of a Crown by impious acts which will for ever remain ignominious in story.

In the year 1015, the Danes again besieged and took this place, and pillaged it.[*]

Bambrough is said to have been in good repair at the time of the conquest, when it is probable it was put into the custody of some trusty Norman, and had additions made to the works; as the present area contained within its walls measures upwards of eight acres, instead of three, as described by Hoveden[†]

Whilst Malcolm King of Scotland was carrying his horrid ravages along the banks of Tees, Gospatric made an incursion into Cumberland, which the Scottish King then held by force of arms; and having laid waste the country, he returned to Bambrough loaden with spoils: but this was succeeded by a severe revenge, for Malcolm soon after entered Northumberland, and after cruel depredations, carried with him a multitude of the inhabitants into slavery.[‡]

In the reign of William II. A. D. 1095, on the defection of Mowbray Earl of Northumberland, the royal troops laid siege to Bambrough, under the command of the Sovereign, the Earl having taken refuge there. The King finding the place impregnable, to distress the garrison, and cut off all succours of men and provisions, he erected a fortress in the neighbourhood, according to the art of war practised in those days, which was named Malvoisin, or the bad neighbour, in which he placed a strong garrison, and drew off the main body of his army southward. The Earl by means of a secret correspondence held with some of the garrison of Newcastle, had entertained hopes of making himself master of that place: with that intent, under covert of the night, he set out from Bambrough, accompanied by 30 horsemen, but being observed by the garrison of Malvoisin, was pursued. When he arrived at Newcastle, he found the gates shut against him, and the garrison apprized of his intention: he was now reduced to the necessity of flying to the monastery of St. Oswin at Tynemouth, where he was besieged six days, and received a wound in his leg; at length he and his followers having retired to the sanctuary, in defiance of the holy prescription, were dragged forth, and delivered up prisoners to the King.[*] His wife, with one Morael, his kinsman and Lieutenant, still held out against the besiegers, and kept the castle of Bambrough, in defiance of every assault, and every device then practised in sieges. The King, wearied with this unsuccessful procedure, led forth his prisoner before the walls, and threatened instantly to put out his eyes, and give him up to torture, if the garrison did not surrender. Morael, overcome by the threatening calamity which impended on the head of his Lord, capitulated; and for his bravery and singular fidelity, the King pardoned his offences, and took him into favour; at the same time sparing the Earl's life, committing him prisoner to the castle of Windsor.
[†]

In the next reign it was intrusted by King Henry I. to Eustace Fitz-John, who was dispossessed of it and his other employments by King Stephen, jealous of his attachment to Maud, daughter of King Henry I. Irritated at this injury, Fitz-John attached himself to David King of Scotland, and levied a great force from his barony of Alnwick, with which he openly joined the Scotch invader. They marched towards Bambrough, and made a regular attack; but so far from being able to possess the place, they only forced an outwork, which had been lately erected, and put to the sword about 100 of the defenders, by whose reproachful speeches they were irritated to the assault. After destroying the corn, hamlets, and erections in the adjacent country, they marched southward; and in the county of Durham being joined by a large body of forces from Galloway and Cumberland, with King David at their head, they advanced to Northallerton, and soon after were defeated at the battle of the standard.

In the conditions of peace made between King Stephen and King David I. of Scotland, it was stipulated, that the earldom of Northumberland should be conclusively settled on Prince Henry, David's son, with all its appendages, except Bambrough and Newcastle, which the English Monarch was to retain on Henry's receiving a compensation by lands in the south of England. All the Barons within this earldom did homage to Prince Henry for their estates, with a salvo for the fealty they had sworn to King Stephen, it having also been premised, that the laws and customs established by King Henry I. in Northumberland should remain in force. This treaty was ratified at Durham, in the month of April, A. D. 1139, in the presence of Maude Queen of England and a great assembly of the Barons of both nations; and thereupon the King of Scotland and his son entered into compact for the maintenance of peace with England during their lives; for the observance of which Cospatric Earl of March, Hugh de Morvill, Fergus Mel and Mac were given as hostages.

King Henry II. in the third year of his reign, had restored to him, by Malcolm IV. King of Scotland, the northern territories which King Stephen had granted to David King of Scotland: and therewith King Henry was put in possession of the city of Carlisle, the castle of Bambrough, and Newcastle upon Tyne. It is presumed by some authors, that David having taken advantage of the broils in which King Stephen was involved, had seized the castle of Bambrough; as in the treaty when the earldom of Northumberland was resigned to Prince Henry, this fortress and Newcastle were expressly reserved to the Crown of England.

In the 16th year of King Henry the Second's reign, some great work seems to have been added to this fortress, as in Madox's History of the Exchequer, under the article of Amercements, it appears one William, son of Waldef, was fined five marks for refusing his assistance in the King's works at Baenburg Castle: he was fined also 40s. to have a respite touching the said works. Perhaps at this time the Keep was built; its great similarity to that of Dover, the work of that reign, makes it at least probable.[*]

In the time of King Richard I. Hugh Bishop of Durham held this castle, but his power was of short date; for the King being offended at his insolence, disseized him of this place, together with the county of Northumberland, and imposed on him a fine of 2000 marks.

William Heron, son of Jordan Heron, who held a barony in this county by the service of one Knight's fee, as his ancestors had done from the conquest, was in the 32d year of King Henry III. constituted Governor of Bambrough Castle, and of Pickering and Scarbrough, in Yorkshire: in which appointments he was succeeded in the 37th year of the same reign, by John Lexington, Knt. Chief Justice of the Forests North of Trent.

In 1296, King Edward I. summoned John Baliol, King of Scotland to renew his homage at this castle; but the proud vassal forgetting his fidelity, contemned the command, and levied an army to resist the English arms, if Edward entered his kingdom. Edward burning with indignation at this insolence, marched to Berwick, which he took by storm, and put the garrison to the sword. From thence proceeding to Dunbar, near which place the Scotch army waited his approach, an engagement ensued, in which the English were victorious: the field of battle was covered with innumerable carcasses, 22,000 Scots, some Historians assert, fell that day. Dunbar was taken, and Baliol was made prisoner. The great trophy of this victory, was the stone chair in which the Kings of Scotland had been crowned from the earliest times. This was the palladium of the Scotch, the loss of which shook the superstition of the whole empire. This chair was brought in triumph to England, with the King in chains, and was placed in the abbey of Westminster, where it has remained for regal honours ever since—a degree of appropriation which nothing but the bigotry and superstition of that age could have decreed to it in England.[*]

Isabel de Beaumont, related to Eleanor Queen of Edward I. sister to Lord Henry Beaumont, and widow of John de Vesey, afterwards wife of John Duke of Brabant, had a grant of this castle for her life, on proviso that she did not marry again. During her possession, Piers de Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, was protected here from the vengeance of an injured and incensed nobility. In 1312, he was dragged from the castle of Scarbrough, and given up to the hands of his adversaries.

In the year 1311, this castle, on the marriage of the Lady Vesey, was reassumed by government, and given to Lord Percy.[*]

In 1355, Earl Murray being taken prisoner by King Edward III. was committed prisoner to this castle, from whence he was removed to Nottingham, and lastly to Windsor.

It was held for a short time by Roger Heron, a younger son of William Heron before mentioned; after which it was conferred on Henry Percy, for his good services in the Scotch wars. In this family it continued for several ages, and a grant of this castle, together with the manor and fee farms of the town, was made to his grandson for life. In the reign of King Henry VI. Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, was Constable. During the contention between the King and the House of York, there were divers Governors, according to the party which happened to be victorious. Sir Ralph Grey and John Lord Wenlock were both of them Constables for Henry VI. the latter in the 25th year of that King: he nevertheless sided with King Edward IV. and served under him at Towton.

In the second year of the reign of King Edward IV. an insurrection of the Lancastrian party appearing in the North, the King advanced to Northumberland, and at once laid siege to the three castles of Alnwick, Dunstanburgh, and Bambrough. Ten thousand forces invested the latter under the command of the Earl of Worcester, the Earl of Arundel, the Lord Ogle, and the Lord Montecute: the Duke of Somerset, the Earl of Pembroke, Lord Roos, and Sir Ralph Percy maintained the fortress until Christmas eve, when it was surrendered. The Lords Pembroke and Roos effected their escape, and the Duke of Somerset and Sir Ralph Percy received the royal pardon. The Queen still struggling against the tor¦rents of adversity, such in the whole, as royalty seldom ever experienced, again made head in Northumberland. Sir Ralph Grey surprized the castle of Bambrough, which was then in the keeping of Sir John Astley; and he garrisoned it with Scotch troops: but the battle of Hexham Levels soon put a final end to these commotions, and gave a conclusive blow to the hopes of the House of Lancaster. Sir Ralph Grey and Sir Humphrey Nevill were excepted in the general pardon. Nevill soon afterwards suffered at York, but Sir Ralph Grey knowing his perilous estate, held out the castle of Bambrough until July. The Lords Montecute and Warwick conducted the siege. A tower being beat down by the canon, Sir Ralph received such bruizes by its fall, that he was taken up for dead; and the garrison dismayed at the catastrophe, immediately surrendered. It was Sir Ralph's fate to survive the day, and afterwards to suffer death as a traitor at York.

The damages the castle had sustained, were not repaired in that or the succeeding reigns: King Henry VII. and King Henry VIII. both esteemed those castles as places of refuge only for malecontents. From the time of King Edward IV. there is a total suspension of its history. By the escheats of the 10th of Queen Elizabeth, it appears to be in the Crown, with the adjoining castle of Dunstanburgh. Sir John Foster of Bambrough Abbey, was then Governor of this castle. His grandson, John Foster, Esq had a grant of the manor of Bambrough from King James; but in the year 1715, his descendant forfeited, and it was purchased by his uncle, Lord Crew. [*]

The town of Bambrough is now reduced to a mean village, no traces of its splendour as a royal borough and the seat of Kings remaining. It sent Members to Parliament in the reign of King Edward I.* In King Edward the Third's time it contributed one vessel to the expedition against Calais. The shire of Bambrough is of great extent, containing the baronies of Bradford, Vicount, and Muschamp, formerly a separate franchise, and possessed of certain immunities and privileges now obsolete.

In 1137, during the reign of King Henry I. a Monastery was founded at Bambrough, for Canons Regular of the order of St. Austin, subordinate and as a cell to Nosthell, near Pomfret, in the county of York, valued at the dissolution, by Dugdale at 116l. 12s. 3d. but by Speed 124l. 15s. 7d. The scite of the monastery, with its possessions as parcel of St. Oswald of Nosthell, were granted to John Foster, 37 King Henry VIII. as is set forth in Tanner's Notitia, p. 392. King Henry gave the churches of St. Oswald and St. Aidan here to the beforementioned priory.

By licence of King Edward II. an Hospital was founded here dedicated to Mary Magdalen.[†]

Leland speaks of a fair college a little without Bambrough. This was a religious house founded by King Henry III. for Preaching Friars. Queen Elizabeth, in the second year of her reign, granted the scite to Thomas Reeve and Nicholas Pinder.[‡]

Bambrough was a very extensive Deanery, comprehending a tract from Berwick to Kirk Newton, taking in Norham.

The church of Bambrough is a plain structure; there is no great mark of antiquity in the building; when or by whom it was erected is not known. The church within the castle walls, I presume, had Oswald for its [*] founder; this edifice seems to be of much more modern date. In a nich in the wall is a recumbent effigy of a Knight Templar, the personage represented unknown. As these apertures on the building of churches were designed for the tombs of founders or other benefactors, this tomb reduces the antiquity of the church to a late aera; and indeed the whole building has that appearance. Unless we conceive the outworks of the fortifications of Bambrough were of great extent, it is not reconcileable that this should be the church founded by King Oswald.

There are monuments of the Foster family in this church, but all of inferior date to the before-mentioned grants.
[*]

It is necessary in this place to take a particular view of the charity of Lord Crew, who purchased the forfeited estates of the Fosters.[*] It is not arrogant to say, that his bequests have furnished the most exalted degree of charitable distribution, that ever flowed from a private donation in this country.

Lord Crew's will bears date the 24th June, 1720, and he died the 18th of September, in the 88th year of his age, at Stene, the seat of his ancestors, in Northamptonshire. The appropriations which particularly relate to Bambrough, are the sole objects of my present attention. I cannot describe them to the reader in more expressive language, than that of the worthy and learned traveller Mr Pennant; from whose works I will select a few sentences.

The castle, and the manor belonging it, was once the property of the Forsters; but purchased by Lord Crew, Bishop of Durham, and with other considerable estates, left vested in Trustees, to be applied to unconfined charitable uses. Three of these Trustees are a majority: one [*] of them makes this place his residence, and blesses the coast by his judicious and humane application of the Prelate's generous bequest. He has repaired and rendered habitable the great square tower: the part reserved for himself and family, is a large hall and a few smaller apartments; but the rest of the spacious edifice is allotted for purposes, which make the heart to glow with joy when thought of. The upper part is an ample granary; from whence corn is dispensed to the poor without distinction, even in the dearest time, at the rate of four shillings a bushel; and the distressed, for many miles round, often experience the conveniency of this benefaction.

‘Other apartments are fitted up for shipwrecked sailors, and bedding is provided for 30, should such a number happen to be cast on shore at the same time. A constant patrol is kept every stormy night along this tempestuous coast, for above 8 miles, the length of the manor, by which means numbers of lives have been preserved. Many poor wretches are often found on the shore in a state of insensibility; but by timely relief, are soon brought to themselves.’

It often happens, that ships strike in such a manner on the rocks as to be capable of relief, in case numbers of people could be suddenly assembled: for that purpose a cannon [†] is fixed on the top of the tower, which is fired once, if the accident happens in such a quarter; twice, if in another; and thrice, if in such a place. By these signals the country people are directed to the spot they are to fly to; and by this means, frequently preserve not only the crew, but even the vessel; for machines of different kinds are always in readiness to heave ships out of their perilous situation.

‘In a word, all the schemes of this worthy Trustee have a humane and useful tendency: he seems as if selected from his brethren for the same purposes as Spenser tells us the first of his seven beadsmen in the house of holinesse was.’

The first of them that eldest was and best,

Of all the house had charge and government,

As guardian and steward of the rest:

His office was to give entertainment

And lodging unto all that came and went:

Not unto such as could him feast againe,

And doubly quite for that he on them spent;

But such as want of harbour did constraine;

These, for God's sake, his dewty was to entertaine.

That all seamen may be informed of the circumstances of this charity, a printed account is published under the direction of the Trinity House in Newcastle upon Tyne, and which is subjoined in the notes.[*] It is much to be lamented that this example has not induced the benevolent to adopt the plan on the southern coasts: by which many acts of barbarity might be prevented, and valuable lives saved to the public.

The reader will form a perfect idea of the extent of Lord Crew's charity, in a department distinct from that of seamen under the above description, by the following tables, published in the Newcastle newspapers.

Annual account of the charitable institution at Bambrough Castle, for the relief of sick and lame Poor, from Oct. 17, 1774, to Oct. 17, 1775.

Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1774

65

Out-patients admitted since

681

In-patients

17

763

Of these, discharged cured

579

Relieved

81

Inoculated and recovered

9

Dead

9

Remaining on the books

85

763

Account from Oct. 17, 1775, to Oct. 17, 1776.

Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1775

85

Out-patients admitted since

1009

In-patients

26

1120

Of these, discharged cured

928

Relieved

73

Sent to the Infirmary at Newcastle

4

Dead

9

Remaining on the books

106

1120

Account from Oct. 17, 1776, to Oct. 17, 1777.

Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1766

106

Out-patients admitted since

1055

In-patients

27

1188

Of these, discharged cured

1028

Relieved

59

Sent to the Infirmary at Newcastle

1

Dead

11

Remaining on the books

89

1188

So extensive a charity, to flow from a private bounty, is singular: men in former ages were canonized for trifling acts of benevolence, compared to this. But although the resources were given by Lord Crew, yet the disposition was not of his arrangement; to the benevolent heart of the Rev. Dr Sharp, the chief part of the blessings derived from his Lordship's will is to be attributed. He resides many months in each year in the castle of Bambrough, superintends the works of charity, has his eye open upon every new channel by which he may give relief or consolation to his suffering fellow-creatures. The shipwrecked and the diseased are comforted by his visitation, and the calamities of life are all alleviated by his care. It is an exalted duty; the blessed spirits of heaven are described to us as dispensing the gifts of universal benevolence.

In regard to natural strength, there is not a situation in all Northumberland equal to that of Bambrough, or one in any wise so well adapted to the ancient rules of fortification. From the great tower there is an extensive sea and land prospect; you overlook the whole group of Farn Islands; you view the castle of Holy Island, which from thence makes a very formidable appearance; and on the more distant peninsula, you discern the town and fortifications of Berwick. On the other side, Dunstanborough Castle crowns the nearest cliffs, behind which a winding shore is seen, with many little promontories, creeks, and bays, beautifully mingled, and graced with multitudes of small vessels, laying in their ports or under sail. The extreme point of view is Tynemouth, whose ruined monastery gives an obelisk to terminate the landskip. All the inland prospect gradually inclines towards the sea banks, with many considerable swells, displaying a fine cultivated scene to the eye, varied with innumerable villages and hamlets.

Notes

*

Regnum Nordanhumbrorum incepit XIIIo anno regni Kinrici. Cum enim proceres Anglorum patriam illam multis & magnis praeliis sibi subjugassent, Idam quendam, juvenem nobilissimum, sibi regnem constituerunt, qui fuit filius Eoppae.

Construxit autem Bebbanburg, & circumdedit eam prius sepe, postea muro.

Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 293.

↵

*

But yet it may be questioned, whether Bede himself ever gave out this etymology. No mention of it is in the Saxon, but it is there called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, i. e. the royal mansion. Florence of Worcester seems to have been the first contriver of the story of Queen Bebba; but Matthew of Westminster tells us it was built by Ida the first King of Northumberland.

Gibson's Camden, p. 1094.

Anno 774.

↵

†

‘Bebba vero civitas, urbs est munitissima, non admodum magna, sed quasi duorum vel trium agrorum spatium, habens unum introitum cavatum, et gradibus miro modo exaltatum. Habet in summitate montis ecclesiam praepulchre factum, in qua est scrinium speciosum et pretiosum; in quo involuta, pallio jacet dextra manus St. Oswaldi regis, incorrupta, sicut narrat Beda, historiographus hujus gentis. Est in occidente et in summitate ipsius civitatis, fons miro cavatus opere dulcis ad potandum, et purissimus ad videndum.’

Sym. Dunelm.

↵

*

Symeon Dunelm. ch. 1.

Nam tempore episcopatus ejus hostilis Merciorum exercitus, Penda duce, Nortdanhumbrorum regiones impia clade longe lateque devastans, pervenet ad urbem usque regiam, quae ex Bebbae quondam Reginae vocabulo cognominatur, eamque, quam neque armis, neque obsidione capere poterat, flammis absumere conatus est. Descissisque viculis, quos in vicinia urbis invenit, advexit illo plurimam congeriem trabium, tignorum, parietum, virgeorum, & tecti fenei, & his urbem in magna altitudine circumdedit a parte qua terrae est contigna: & dum ventum oportunum cerneret, inlato igne urbem conburere visum est. Quo temtempore reverentiss. antestes Aidan in insula Farne, quae duobus ferme milibus passuum ab urbe procul ab est, morabatur. Illo enim saepius, secretae orationis & silentii causa, secedere consueverat. Denique usque hodie locum sedis illius solitariae in eadem insula solent ostendere. Qui cum ventis ferentibus globos ignis, ac fumum super muros urbis exaltari conspiceret, fertur, ad coelum elevatis oculis manibusque, cum lachrimis dixisse: "Vide, domine, quanta mala facit Penda." Quo dicto, statim mutati ab urbe venti in eos, qui accenderant, flammarum incendia retorserunt. Ita ut aliquot laesi, omnes territi impugnare ultra urbem cessarent.

Bede. Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 139.

↵

*
Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 285.
↵

†
Grose.
↵

‡

Dum sic saevit Malcolin, Cospatricius comes Cumberland: vastavit, ac cum spoliis onustus rediit, & in Bebbanburg munitione firmiss: se conclusit. Erat id temporis Cumberland sub regis Malcolini domino, non jure possessa, sed violenter subjugata.

Malcolinus propter excursionem Cospatritii in Cumberland, Northumbr. saeviss. strage depopulatus est, abducta postea magna hominum in servitutem multitudine.

Lel. Col. v. p. 382.

↵

*

Robertus de Mulbrai comes Northumbr. & Gul. de Auco cum multis aliis regem Gul. Rufum reg. vitaque privare, & filium Amitae illius Stephanum de Albemarla conati sunt regem constituere.

Moreal propinquus Mulbraii reddidit castellum de Bebbanberg Gul. Rufo.

Gul. Rufus jussit oculos erui & testiculos abscidi Gul. Auco duello apud Saresbyri victo.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 159.

↵

†

About this period of time the following old poem seems to have been composed; but to what historic fact (if any) it relates, I have not been able to discover. It was communicated to me by the Rev. Mr Lamb of Norham.

The LAIDLEY [*] WORM of SPINDLESTON HEUGHS.

Virgo jam serpens sinuosa volumina versat,

Mille trahens varios adverso sole colores,

Arrectis horret squamis et sibilat ore;

Arduaque insurgens navem de littore pulsat.

A Song 500 years old, made by the old Mountain Bard, Duncan Frasier, living on Cheviot A. D. 1270. From an ancient manuscript.

THE King is gone from Bambrough castle:

Long may the Princess mourn,

Long may she stand on the castle wall,

Looking for his return.

She has knotted the keys upon a string,

And with her she has them ta'en,

She has cast them o'er her left shoulder,

And to the gate she is gane.

She tripped out, she tripped in,

She tript into the yard:

But it was more for the King's sake,

Than for the Queen's regard.

It fell out on a day the King

Brought the Queen with him home:

And all the Lords, in our country,

To welcome them did come.

Oh! welcome father, the Lady cries,

Unto your halls and bowers;

And so are you my stepmother,

For all that is here is yours.

A Lord said, wondering while she spake,

This Princess of the North

Surpasses all of female kind

In beauty, and in worth.

The envious Queen replied, at least

You might have excepted me;

In a few hours, I will her bring

Down to a low degree.

I will liken her to a Laidley Worm

That warps about the stone,

And not, till Childy [*] Wynd comes back,

Shall she again be won.

The Princess stood at her bower door

Laughing: who could her blame?

But e'er the next day's sun went down,

A long worm she became.

For seven miles east, and seven miles west,

And seven miles north, and south,

No blade of grass or corn could grow,

So venomous was her mouth.

The milk of seven stately cows,

It was costly her to keep,

Was brought her daily, which she drank

Before she went to sleep.

At this day may be seen the cave,

Which held her folded up,

And the stone trough, the very same

Out of which she did sup.

Word went east, and word went west,

And word is gone over the sea,

That a Laidley Worm in Spindleston Heughs

Would ruin the north country.

Word went east, and word went west,

And over the sea did go;

The child of Wynd got wit of it,

Which filled his heart with woe.

He called straight his merry men all,

They thirty were and three:

I wish I were at Spindleston,

This desperate worm to see.

We have no time now here to waste,

Hence quickly let us sail;

My only sister Margaret

Something, I fear, doth ail.

They built a ship without delay,

With masts of the rown-tree,[†]

With fluttering sails of silk so fine,

And set her on the sea.

They went aboard. The wind with speed

Blew them along the deep,

At length they spied an huge square tower,

On a rock high and steep.

The sea was smooth, the weather clear,

When they approached nigher,

King Ida's castle they well knew,

And the banks of Bambroughshire.

The Queen looked out at her bower-window,

To see what she could see;

There she espied a gallant ship

Sailing upon the sea.

When she beheld the silken sails,

Full glancing in the sun,

To sink the ship she sent away

Her witch-wives every one.

Their spells were vain. The hags returned

To the Queen in sorrowful mood,

Crying, That witches have no power,

Where there is rown-tree wood.

Her last effort, she sent a boat,

Which in the haven lay,

With armed men to board the ship;

But they were driven away.

The worm leapt up, the worm leapt down,

She plaited round the stane;

And ay as the ship came to the land

She banged it off again.

The child then ran out of her reach

The ship on Budle sand;

And jumping into the shallow sea

Securely got to land.

And now he drew his berry-brown sword,

And laid it on her head;

And swore if she did harm to him

That he would strike her dead.

Oh! quit thy sword, and bend thy bow,

And give me kisses three;

For though I am a poisonous worm,

No hurt I will do to thee.

Oh! quit thy sword, and bend thy bow,

And give me kisses three;

If I am not won e'er the son go down,

Won I shall never be.

He quitted his sword, he bent his bow,

He gave her kisses three;

She crept into a hole a worm,

But stept out a Lady.

No cloathing had this Lady fine,

To keep her from the cold;

He took his mantle from him about,

And round her did it fold.

He has taken his mantle from him about,

And it he wrapt her in;

And they are up to Bambrough castle,

As fast as they can win.

His absence, and her serpent shape,

The King had long deplored:

He now rejoiced to see them both

Again to him restored.

The Queen they wanted, whom they found

All pale, and sore afraid,

Because she knew her power must yield

To Childy Wynds, who said,

Woe be to thee, thou wicked witch,

An ill death mayest thou dee;

As thou my sister hast likened,

So likened shalt thou be.

I will turn you into a toad,

That on the ground doth wend;

And won, won shalt thou never be

Till this world hath an end.

Now on the sand near Ida's tower

She crawls a loathsome toad,

And venom spits on every maid

She meets upon her road.

The virgins all of Bambrough town

Will swear that they have seen

This spiteful toad of monstrous size,

Whilst walking they have been.

All folks believe within the shire

This story to be true;

And they all run to Spindleston,

The cave and trough to view.

This fact now Duncan Frasier,

Of Cheviot, sings in rhime;

Lest Bambroughshire men should forget

Some part of it in time.

↵

*
This is a northern corruption for Loathly; i. e. loathsome.
↵

*
There is a street now called the Wynd at Bambrough.
↵

†
Mountain ash.
↵

*
Grose.
↵

*
To increase the superstitions import of this palladium of monarchy, it is reported that it contains or is composed of the stone of Beth-el, on which Jacob slept when he had the beatific vision, and received the promises of inheritance from the voice of the Supreme.
↵

*
Carte, II. 320. Dug. I. 273.
↵

*

I am indebted to Ralph Spearman, Esq of Eachwick, in the county of Northumberland, for the following curious survey, taken by inquisition, of this castle, its rights and liberties.

Inquisitio indentata capta apud Bamburge in com. Northumb. xvio die Aprilis anno regni Eliz. Dei gra. Anglie France et Hibernie Fidei Defensoris &c. Decimo octavo 1576 Coram Johae Selbye Ar. janitore ville Barwici Willimo Reed Ar. capitaneo insulae sacre & Thomae Bates Generoso Supervisore omniu. & singulor. Dm̄ior. Man̄ior. terraru. et Tentoru. dic. dn̄e Rin̄i in com. Northumbr. virtute commissionis dce Dme Rin̄e eisdem commissionar. ac Cuthberto Collingwood Militi & Roberto Raynes eis quinq. quatuor aut tribus eoru. directe et hinc inquisit annexe sacrum Thome Bradford Ar. Nicholas Hebburne Gen. Petri Wetwood Gen. Willimi Wallis Gen. Jacobi Wallis Gen. Edwardi Hebburne Gen. Radi Collingwood Gen. Thome Lilburne Gen. Edwardi Mastians Gen. Uswini Mastians Gen. Thome Swinho Gene. de Mowlsen Roberti Roddam Gen. Cuthberti Ogle de Dichburne Gen. Oswaldi Younghusbande de Budley Yeoman qui super sacrum &c. dicunt quod sup. castri de Bamburge in dicta commissione specificati ac extent terrar. Dn̄icat. et alior. possessionem eid. castro pertinet. cum juribus previligiis consuetudinibus et servitiis eid. castro pertinent et aliis sircumstantibus juxta tenorum et effectum quorundam articulor. eid. commissionis annext. in hac inquisit. postea in lingua Anglicana script. et resitat. est vera et ad quam quidem jur. interessent.

The survey and view taken of the castle of Bambrough, in the countie of Northumberland, the 2•th of October 1574, in the 16th year of the reigne of our Soveraigne Ladie the Queens Matye that now is, by the Commissioners and Jury abovenamed as followeth: To the first article, the said castle is scituate upon a mayne rocke, on the sea banke, a very strong scituation; and hath on the cost northward from him the Holy Island, distant by estimacon 4 miles; and from thence the Queens Majties towne of Barwicke, distant from Island 6 miles; and towards the south, from Bambrughe, on the sea coast, y•. scituate the castle of Dunstenburge, parcell of her Maties possession of the Dutchie of Lancaster, distant 5 miles, or thereabouts; which said castle of Bamburge, in the said commission named, is in utter ruin and decay, the drawbridge and gates soe broken, that there is noe usual entre on the fore part, save at a breache on the wall, that hath beene well walled, and yet hath walls much decayed standing; and is of three wards, in the two utter wards whereof nothing is but walls much decayed; in the innermost ward is one tower of 25 yards square by estimation standing upon the topp of the rocke, and in the same a well of fresh water, the walls whereof are upright, but much worne and decayed with weather, the roofe whereof, which hath beene timber, and swintime covered withe lead, as it seemed, is utterly decayed and gone; within the said warde hath beene alsoe the principal lodging of the house, and as it may appear, all offices belonging thereunto, which for the more part, as it seame, have beene long in decay, save the remotese walls doe in the most part thereof stand, and yet in one parte of the same lodging hath beene of late a lodging for the Captaine, the partes whereof called the hall and great chamber have beene covered withe lead, and yet have some lead upon them, and in some parts revin and the lead taken away. The hall in the Captain's lodging, containing in lenth 6 yeards and in breath 7 yeards by estimation, hath lead upon him yet, by estimation _____ feathers; the great chamber, containing in lenth 10 yeards and in breath 5 yeards by estimation, hath lead yet remaining to the va• of _____ foothers by estimation, by reason of the lead of both houses decayed and taken awa•

The timber of both the said houses is piched and in much decay; within the said ward have beene of late a chappel and other little turats covered, all which be now utterly decayed, saveing the _____ walls of the most parte thereof, much worne with weather, standith. The Cee Towne, there is at this day no place or towne of that name, that we can know, unlesse that be menie of the towne of Bamburghe, which is scituate not far from the foresaid castle, on the west parte thereof, and hath been a borough and market towne, but now not frequented with market, but in manner decayed, and the most parte thereof desolate and unbielded. The Lordshippe is reputed to be the antient inheritance of the crowne and antient demayne, and hath the liberties, royalties, privileges, and services belonging thereto, and antiently have used the same; and the tenants of certain towns there, as of Bamburgh, Shoston, and Sunderland are not empleaded, nor doe not few for that inheritance, but onely in the courts there, and have their courts kept at certain customable days accordinglie. There is belonging to the said castle the demain lands of Bamburghe, demain lands at Sunderland, the towns or hamlets of Bedenhall, Shoston, and Sunderland, all which be reputed as the upper Lordshipp belonging to the said castle. And besides the payment of the rents in money and grains mentioned in the next article following, they or some of them perfectly there known, doe owe by their tenure and by custome certaine services to the said castle, as the casting away of sand and clenging the castle thereof, certaine daysworks of husband labour for occupation and manuring of the said demayne lands; and alsoe that every two tenants should bring every year one carte load of wood from Rochwood, and one foother of turves from the Kings Moore to said castle, to be spent with certaine other accustomable services: to the said castle alsoe belongeth a certaine peace of ground, which as it semeth hath beene inclosed, because there remaineth yet about it the mencon where the ditch hath bene, called by the name of Rotchwood, where great woods hath beene, but now utterly decayed, and noe wood at all remaineth thereon: there is alsoe certaine other townes, as Bewicke, Dichburne, Calvele, Eslingtone, Yetlingtone, Midletone, Midle Midletone, North Midletone, South Mowlflen, and Bedenhall, which pay yearly severall rents unto the said castle, which rents be commonly called Drimgage. [*] And the same townes alsoe doe make appearance at the head courts, or in default thereof lye in fyne or be mercyed, and what other services they or any of them be charged with all the jury knoweth not. There is belonging to the said castle certaine fishings in the water of Tweed, the rents whereof and all other the premisses belonging to the said castle, doth particularlie appear in a rentale and scedule hereunto annexed, with the names of the occupiers and payers of the same. The demaine lands of the said castle doe lye in three several fields, the southwest and north fields, and doe extend in the south fields, beginning at the castle gates, goeing sowth betweene the See and the Straidburne to the south side of the Straid field, and the turning west up the said burne to a ditch which is nere betwixt the demains and a parcell of Learmuth lands, and then turning south by the same diche to the south end of Baseletche, in the which compasse there is a parcel of ground sometime belonging't, Colte and diverse others cont. by estimac. one acre and a halfe from the south, and of Baseletch close that goeth south by certaine marke stones, and other meres betwene the demains and the lands of Sir Thomas Gray, and betweene the demains and the lands of the Earle of Rutlande, till it come to the Longdales in the King's Meadow, and then turneth west to a diche that is more betwene the demains and the fields of Burton, and then turneth southest a certaine space, and then east to a diche betweene the demains and Fowbridge fields, and the demains of Bamburgh and the demains of Shoston to the see shore to the said castle, in which compasse there is a parcel of Learmoths land, containing by estimation acres, all the residewe of the demains being containeth by estimation, in areable land, meadow, and pasture, _____ acres. In the west field there is one forlong containing by estimation 5 acres, called the Blind Wells, joyneing on the one parte to Learmoth's lands, and one the other parte to a furlong of the said demains called Shoutrings, which containeth by estimation 8 acres, and joyneth to another furlong of the same demains called Starrehoetopps, containing by estimation _____ acres, and joyneth to the fields of Barton, and one the north parte to another furlong of same demains called the Stake Flatt, containing by estimation 7 acres, joning to the fields of Budle on the one parte, and to another flatt of the said demains called Raggs Flatt, containing by estimation 3 acres, of which parcells some be with a diche lately made, inclosed with other lands, and some be left out and yey be not so well bounded with perfect meres as the residue of the demains bee. There is another parcell of the said demains called Potter Field, lyeing all together, saveing that the way or lane leading west owt of the town of Bamburghe divideth that in that place, and hath some parte thereof one the south side of the way, and containeth in the whole by estimation acres: the north fields of the demains lyeth alltogedder, and hath one the west parte Learmoth's lands, one the south parte a letch, and joyneth to the see, containing by estimation _____ acres. There is a parcell of land in Shoston Fields, in the tenure of William Hood, parcell of Porter Land, and of the said demains, containing in acres by acres 6. The demaine lands, called the Mains of Shoston, belonging to the said castle, lieth in the fields of Shoston altogidder, in the north parte adjoyneing to parcell of the demains of Bamburgh, and on Learmowths lands lying within compass of the said demains and in other parts, save a pece of the est parte abutting opon parcell of the said Learmowth's lands that is environed with the fields and lands of Shostons, and containeth by estimacon _____ acres.

To the fourth, the said castle is in utter ruine and decay, as before is menconed, and the place called the towne is not knowne, unlesse it be the towne of Bamburgh, which is likewise in decay and ruine, and very few houses in respect of the buildings that have beene there, and in respect of the intre of burgage are now there standing, but when, where, how, or by whom, or to what dammage or losse or vallew we cannot understand or estimate; yet for the decay of the said castle of late time, the deposicons of certaine persons who were servants to Sir John Horsley, late Captain, there is by vertue of the said admissione, taken as followeth at Bambrugh the 24th of October, in the 17th year of the rayne of the Queens Matie that now is.

William Hunter of Thorny Haugh, in the county of Northumberland, aged 53 yeares, or thereabouts, sworne and examined to the first, second, third, fowrth, fifthe, and sixthe saith, that in the time of Sir John Horsley, late Captain of the said castle, and at his death there was in the said castle one hall, one great chamber, and one other chamber on the east side of the hall, all covered with lead, and furnished in other reparacons at that time convenient to be dwelled in; and that there was at that time two other chambers in the said castle likewise covered with lead and in like reparacons; and that there was in the said castle kitchinge covered with flaggs, and a chappell covered with slate; and that under the said hall and great chamber were scellers for offices, with doors and all other foornitours as were convenient: and being examined how he knew the same to be true, he saith Sir John Horsley being the last Captain there, the said Sir John Horsley did dwell and keep his house continueally in the said castle, and that this deponent was his servant, and did for the most parte attend upon him there.

Henry Mustchant of the Greans, in the countye of Northumberland, of the age of 60 years, or thereabouts, sworne and examined to the first, second, third, fowrth, and fifth and sixth, saith in all things as his presests have said, which ludginging is now in utter ruin and decay, the chappel, timber, and stones clean taken away, and all the other bieldings before mentioned, save only the hall and great chamber, which have yet some lead upon them as appeareth that in the answer of the first article, the timber by reason of the lead taken away much pyched, but by whome the same spoyle is done they know not.

To the 5th, for the decay of the castle is before declared, and what the repayre thereof will cost they know not; but if it shall be to any purpose to restore the former strenth and beautye thereof, the charges will be greate, and they say to their knowledge the Queens Matie is to repayre and maintain the same, because that is the auntient inheritance of the Crowne: and of the towne specified in that article be the town of Bambrughe, they say to their knowledge the houses decayed and ruinewse are to be repared and maintaned by the owners and inheritours of the said lands and burgage, as in all other boroughs is usual.

To the 6th, they know not of any lands, tenements, or services, or rents withdrawn or kept back, but they say that, &c. &c.

In cujus rei testimon huic inquisit, tam predict. Commissionar. quod prefat. Jur. Sigill. sues a posuerunt.

↵

*

As this service hath of late engaged the attention of Antiquaries, the following definitions are worthy a place here.

Drenches or Drenges, Drengi, were tennets in capite, says an ancient MS. Doomsday, Tit. Lest. Reg. Pictaviens Neuton. They were, says Spelman, E•ge•ere vassallorum non ignobilium, cum singuli qui in Doomsday nominantur, singula po•ent mane•a. Such as at the conquest being put out of their estates, were afterwards restored; for that they being before owner thereof, were against him neither by their persons or councils; Coke on Lit. fo. 5. says, Dre•e• misprinted there for Drenches, are free tenants of a manor. See also Mon. Ang. 2 part, fo. 598.

Dre•g•giam, the tenure by which the Drenches held their lands, of which see Trin. 21 Edw. 3. Eb•r & Northumbr. Rot 101. and we may observe, says Spelman, Qu• Drengorum classe-erant vel per Drengagium tenure sua incoluisse 〈◊〉 •te adv•tur N•an•ra•n.

‘S•r Matthew Ha•e, in his Exposition of the Vetripont Charter, says there is no such tenure in the southern part of England, and observes from the records before him, that it drew wardship and relief. Sir Henry Spelman re•ites several records, wherein these words had occurred to him, and conjectures upon the whole, that the Drenges were free tenants holding by military service. But there are other records, which had not fallen under the inspection of that learned author, that destroy this notion intirely. Mr Denton, from the Red Book in the Exchequer, observes, that Sir Hugh Mor•il, in Westmoreland, changed drengage into free service (several instances are quoted). At Clifton also in this county, and other neighbouring parts, there were drengage tenants; and in the 31st Edw. 3. Gilbert de Eugain, of Clifton, granted by indenture to Roger de Clifford, Lord of Westmoreland, the services of divers persons there by name, with their bodies and all that belonged to them (cum eorum corporious et corum equ•lis) during the life of the said Roger. So that they seem to have been drudges to perform the most servile and laborious offices. And of these Roger had great use at Brougham; for of him the Countess of Pembroke's Memoirs take notice, that he was a lover of building, and a great repairer of his ancient castles, the seats of his ancestors. They seem to have been tenants in pure villenage, who were bound to the Lord as members of and annexed to the manor, and were usually sold with the farm to which they belonged.’

Nicholson and Burn. Hist. of Westmoreland.

The work from whence the last quotation is made, is marked with many forced and uncouth etymologies and derivations: the above of •ru•ges from ore•ges. not a little remarkable. A more perfect knowledge of the feodal ten•tes would have discovered the sutility and inconsistency of the above argument. There were certainly villains in C•fton, yet it doth not follow that the drenges and they were one.

We do not find these tenants mentioned in Blakiston's Commentaries or Sullivan's Lectures. The villains or lazzi held no lands but at the will of the Lord, and were in absolute vassalage. When they bettered their condition, they became base copyholders▪ It would be a change not instanced in records of the feodal tenures, for a villain to be raised to free service. The original acceptation of the old word Dre•, is not known to us, or to what language it belongs: Balley in his Dictionary supposes it derived from the Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, a Drone.

↵

†
Tanner's words, p. 396, are, "Here was an old Hospital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen." Vide Pat. 7 Edw. 2. Pat. 22 Edw. 3. Pat. 37 Edw. 3. Pat. 50 Edw. 3. Escheat Northumb. 50 Edw. 3.
↵

‡
Tanner, p. 396. Vide Rot. Pat. 50 Hen 3. Cart. 51 Henry 3 Pro decem acris terrae ad
•
rium construendum. Pat. 51 Hen. 3. Pat. 22 Edw 1. Prope finem rotuli.

↵

*
Note to p. 170.—23d Parl. King Edward I. John le Graystang and William le Coroner, Members.
↵

*

Of which the two following inscriptions are the most singular; and as they contain some history of the family, may be acceptable to the reader.

On a monument of black marble in the chancel.

Scio quod Redemptor meus vivit in coelis.

Claudius Forsterus Eques Aurat' et Baronettus, antiqua numerosa et Nobili Forsteroru Familia in Com. Northumb. oriundus Dno Nicholao Forstero Fortiss. illi' viri Filio Dni Joannis Forster, Qui 37 Anos Mediar. Marchiar. Scota vers' Dns Guardian' Extitit, Fili' & Haeres. Honoratiss. etiam Dnis Cumbriae et Bedf. Comitib' nec non insigni et illustri Fenwicoru Progeniei totiq. Generosu Genti inter Tinam & Tweda Celeberr. Sanguine Conjunct' Castri deniq. Bamburg. Dns sceniscall et summ' Constabulari obiit in manerio suo De Alba-Terra in comit. Northumbr. Ano Sal. Nost. 16•3.

Memoriae sacru Lugens posuit uxor ejus Dna Elizabetha Guilielmi Fenwici de Wallingtonia Equitis Aurati, Filia.

On a monument of white marble in the chancel.

In the vault below lie buried the bodys of WILLIAM JOHN and FERDINAND sons of SIR WILLIAM FORSTER[*] of BAMBROUGH KNT. by DOROTHY [†] daughter of SIR WILLIAM SELBY of TWISDALE BART. and by ELEANOR Daughter of FERDINANDO LORD FAIRFAX of DENTON WILLIAM was born 28th July 1666 married ELIZABETH Daughter of WILLIAM PERT ESQR. died 1st Sept. 1700 without issue. JOHN was born 24th Sept. 1668 died 15th Novr. 1699 FERDINAND was born 14th Feby. 1669 died 22d Augt. 1701 [‡] Both unmarried They had another Brother NICHOLAS who dyd young and was buried in the Church of Saint Mary in the South Baiely in Durham As also five Sisters

ELEANOR and DOROTHY who both died very young.

FRANCES married to THOMAS FORSTER [*] of ETHERSTONE Esqr

To whom she had several children. MARY who died unmarried And DOROTHY [†] wife of the RT HONOBLE THE LORD CREWE Lord Bishop of Durham Of whom their Mother died. SHE Being the only one remaining of the Family Set up this monument in memory of her dear Brothers As the last respect that could be paid them For their true affection To the CHURCH, ye MONARCHY their COUNTREY and their SISTER Ao 1711 This being the burying place of their Ancestors.

↵

*
Born Nov. 12, 1674. P. R.
↵

†
Ob. 26 Sept. B. 30, 1672. P. R.
↵

‡
B. 2 Sep. P. R.
↵

*
B. 19 Dec. 1673. P. R.
↵

†
Ob. 16 Oct. 1715.
↵

*

In Mr Randal's Manuscripts it is stated, that ‘Bambrough was afterwards granted to his grandson, Claudius Forster, Esq Mar. 15, 7 King James I. Dorothy the only child of William Forster, Knt. marrying Nathaniel Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham, and Baron of Steane in the county of Northampton, July 23, 1700, brought with her the estates of Bambrough and Blanchland. She died without issue.’

"His Lordship left by will, dated June 24th, 1720, the said estates to charitable uses.

‘There are several good rooms furnished in the tower. Dr R. Trevor, Bishop of Durham, held a confirmation at Bambrough, on Sunday August 10th, 1766, for that parish, and dined with Dr. Sharp at the castle, in the large room where the manor court is held’

Randal's Man.

↵

*
Dr. Sharp.
↵

†
Once belonging to a Dutch frigate of 40 guns, which with all the crew was lost opposite to the castle, about 60 years ago.
↵

*

An Account of the Signals made use of at Bambrough Castle, in the county of Northumberland, in case ships or vessels are perceived in distress, and of the charitable institutions established there for their assistance and relief, now published by the direction of the Trustees of Nathanael late Lord Crewe, with the approbation of the Master, Pilots, and Seamen of the Trinity-house in Newcastle upon Tyne.

SIGNALS.

I. A gun (a nine-pounder) placed at the bottom of the tower, to be fired as a signal in case any ship or vessel be observed in distress, viz. once, when any ship or vessel is stranded or wrecked upon the islands, or any adjacent rock: twice, when any ship or vessel is stranded or wrecked behind the castle, or to the northward of it: thrice, when any ship or vessel is stranded or wrecked to the southward of the castle; in order that the custom-house officers, and the tenants with their servants, may hasten to give all possible assistance—as well as to prevent the wreck from being plundered.

II. In every great storm, two men on horseback are sent from the castle to patrol along the coast, from sun-set to sun-rise, that, in case of an accident, one may remain by the ship, and other return to alarm the castle. Whoever brings the first notice of any ship or vessel being in distress, is intitled to a premium, in proportion to the distance from the castle; and if between twelve o'clock at night and three o'clock in the morning, the premium to be double.

III. A large flag is hoisted, when there is any ship or vessel seen in distress upon the Fern Islands, or Staples, that the sufferers may have the satisfaction of knowing their distress is perceived from the shore, and that relief will be sent them as soon as possible. In case of bad weather the flag will be kept up, a gun fired morning and evening, and a rocket thrown up every night from the north turret, till such time as relief can be sent. These are also signals to the Holy Island Fishermen, who by the advantage of their situation, can put off for the islands at times when no boat from the main land can get over the breakers. Premiums are given to the first boats that put off for the islands, to give their assistance to ships or vessels in distress, and provisions and liquors are sent in the boats.

IV. A bell on the south turret will be rung out in every thick fog, as a signal to the fishing boats; and a large swivel fixed on the east turret will be fired every fifteen minutes, as a signal to the ships without the islands.

V. A large weather-cock is fixed on the top of the flag-staff, for the use of the pilots.

VI. A large speaking trumpet is provided, to be used when ships are in distress near the shore, or are run aground.

VII. An observatory or watch tower is made on the east turret of the castle, where a person is to extend every morning at day-break during the winter season, to look out if any ships be in distress.

VIII. Masters and Commanders of ships or vessels in distress, are desired to make such signals as are usually made by people in their melancholy situation.

Assistance, Stores, and Provisions, prepared at Bambrough Castle for Seamen, Ships or Vessels, wrecked or driven a-shore on that coast or neighbourhood.

I. Rooms and beds are prepared for seamen, ship-wrecked, who will be maintained in the castle for a week (or longer, according to circumstances) and during that time be found with all manner of necessaries.

II. Cellars for wine and other liquors from ship-wrecked vessels, in which they are to be deposited for one year, in order to be claimed by the proper owners.

III. A store-house ready for the reception of wrecked goods, cables, rigging, and iron. A book is kept for entering all kinds of timber and other wrecked goods, giving the marks and description of each, with the date when they came on shore.

IV. Four pair of screws for raising ships that are stranded, in order to their being repaired. —Timber, blocks and tackles, handspokes, cables, ropes, pumps and iron, ready for the use of ship-wrecked vessels.

N. B. But if taken away, to be paid for at prime cost.

V. A pair of chains with large rings and swivels, made on purpose for weighing ships (of a thousand tons burthen) that are sunk upon rocks, or in deep water.

N. B. These chains are to be lent (gratis) to any person having occasion for them, within forty or fifty miles along the coast, on giving proper security to re-deliver them to the Trustees.

VI. Two mooring chains of different lengths are provided, which may occasionally be joined together, when a greater length is required.

VII. Whenever any dead bodies are cast on shore, coffins, &c. will be provided, gratis, and also the funeral expences paid.

December the 24th, 1771. TRINITY-HOUSE, NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE.
We the Master, &c. of this house desire the Trustees to make their humane intentions public. By order, THOMAS AUBONE, Secretary.

↵

THE FARN ISLANDS

possess little matter of sufficient consequence to tempt a traveller to sea, especially where there is so constant a ripling and breaking of the waves, as is to be found between them and the continent.[*] In the month of August, when we visited the islands, the sea was tumultuous, making a violent inset between them and the main land. They are 17 in number, the largest and only one we thought worth attending to, is the House Island, nearest to Bambrough, where St. Cuthbert made his residence. Mr Pennant visited them all, and has the following remarks, which, as the work of a very able Naturalist, highly merit a place here.[*]

‘Opposite to Bambrough lie the Farn Islands, which form two groups of little isles and rocks, to the number of 17, but at low water the points of others appear above the surface; they all are distinguished by particular names. The nearest isle to the shore, is that called the House Island, which lies exactly one mile 68 chains from the coast: the most distant is about seven or eight miles. They are rented for 16l. per annum: their produce is kelp, some few feathers, and a few seals, which the tenant watches and shoots, for the sake of the oil and skins. Some of them yield a little grass, and serve to feed a cow or two, which the people are desperate enough to transport over in their little boats.’

‘Visited these islands in a coble, a safe but seemingly hazardous species of boat, long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, which is capable of going through a high sea, dancing like a cork on the summits of the waves.’

‘Touched at the rock called Meg, whitened with the dung of corvorants, which almost covered it; their nests were large, made of tang, and excessively faetid.’

‘Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an island in the farthest group; so called from the vast columnar rocks at the south end, even at their sides, and flat at their tops, and entirely covered with guillemots and shags: the Fowlers pass from one to the other of these columns by means of a narrow board, which they place from top to top, forming a narrow bridge, over such a horrid gap, that the very sight of it strikes one with terror.’

‘Landed at a small island, where we found the female Eider ducks, at that time fitting: the lower part of their nests was made of sea plants; the upper part was formed of the down which they pull off their own breasts, in which the eggs were surrounded and warmly bedded: in some were three, in others five eggs, of a large size, and pale olive colour, as smooth and glossy, as if varnished over. The nests are built over the beach, among the loose pebbles, not far from the water. The ducks sit very close, nor will they rise till you almost tread on them. The drakes separate themselves from the females during the breeding season. We robbed a few of their nests of the down, after carefully separating it from the tang, found that the down of one nest weighed only three quarters of an ounce, but was so elastic as to fill the crown of the largest hat. The people of this country call these St. Cuthbert's ducks, from the Saint of the islands.’

"Besides these kinds, I observed the following.

- "Puffins, called here Tom Noddies

- "Anks—here Skouts

- "Guillemots

- "Black Guillemots

- "Little Anks

- "Shiel Anks

- "Shags

- "Corvorants

- "Black and white Gulls

- "Brown and white Gulls

- "Herring Gulls—which I was told sometimes fed on eggs of other birds

- "Common Gulls—here Annets

- "Kittiwakes or Tarrocks

- "Pewit Gulls

- "Great Terns

- "Sea Pies

- "Sea Larks—here Brockets

- "Jackdaws which breed in rabbit-holes

- "Rock Pigeons

- "Rock Larks

‘The Terns were so numerous, that in some places it was difficult to tread without crushing some of the eggs.’

‘The last isle I visited was the House Island, the sequestered spot where St. Cuthbert passed the two last years of his life. Here was afterwards established a Priory of Benedictines for six or eight Monks, subordinate to Durham. A square tower, the remains of a church, and some other buildings, are to be seen there still; and a stone coffin, which, it is apprehended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the isle is a deep chasm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the sea; through which, in tempestuous weather, the water is forced with vast violence and noise, and forms a fine jet d'eau of sixty feet high: it is called by the inhabitants of the opposite coast, the Churn. ’

The horrible description given of this island by ancient authors, before St. Cuthbert blessed it with his presence, is already mentioned.[*] Here the Saint built himself a cell and a small oratory, which he surrounded with a wall that cut off his view from every thing but the heavens: those who visited him, only conversed through a grate, not having access to his presence.[†] In Bede's Life of St. Cuthbert, we are told the Saint's cell was not the only erection upon the island, for there was a larger house near the landing place, where the brethren who came to visit him lodged. After the death of St. Cuthbert, Ethelwold, who took on him the religious habit at Ripon, resorted to this hermitage, and possessed it 12 years, ending his life there. Felgild succeeded Ethelwold, and in the time of that Hermit, Eadfrid Bishop of Lindisfarn restored from its foundations the oratory of St. Cuthbert, which had gone to ruin. Bede relates, that Felgild was more than 70 years old when he wrote the Life of St. Cuthbert. Besides the persons mentioned by Bede, there were other devotees who chose Farn for the place of their retreat. St. Bartholomew was one, as appears from a manuscript History of his Life in the Bodlean Library, who obtained leave of Lawrence Prior of Durham to go to Farne, where he found one Elwyn in possession of the desirable residence, and whose religion was not sufficiently tempered with charity, to induce him to welcome the stranger. Bartholomew wrote in this retreat his Farne Meditations, now preserved in the Durham Library. Thomas [*] Prior of Durham retired to Farn in the years 1162 and 1163; he had engaged in a controversy with that arrogant Prelate, Hugh Bishop of Durham, touching certain liberties which the Monks of that church prompted him to maintain; and who afterwards deserting him, induced Hugh to procure his deposition.

On the death of Richard Bishop of Durham, sirnamed the Poor, the Monks elected their Prior, Thomas [†] de Melsonby, to the See. The King opposed this election, esteeming him disaffected to his government, because he had been Prior of Coldingham, and sworn fealty to the King of Scotland; and there was singular danger in having a Bishop of Durham under any attachment to the King of Scotland, as in right of his See he would possess places of great strength and importance: more particularly he would hold a large tract of sea coast and many havens, where the shipping and troops of France and Flanders might be received. These objections not being esteemed of sufficient importance to the Monks, for them to renounce their right of election, or fearing new innovations from regal power, they appealed to the See of Rome; but the messengers charged with this matter died in their passage, and Melsonby being intercepted as he attempted to leave the kingdom, he resigned his title to the Episcopacy on the 8th of April, A. D. 1240, having contested his claim three years. In the year 1244, the King advancing towards Newcastle with his army, the Prior was struck with new apprehensions of danger, as he dreaded resentment for the conduct he had shewn under his election to the See; consequently he resigned his office of Prior, and retired to Farn Island, where the Hermit Bartholomew then was in occupation of the sacred cell of St. Cuthbert. Here the Prior spent the remainder of his life in devotion and austerities. He was buried in the cathedral church of Durham, among the Bishops; and many miracles were said to be wrought at his tomb.[*]

Alexander II. King of Scotland, confirmed by deed to the Monk Henry, and his successors in Farn Island, 8s. sterling, in free alms, to be received annually out of the farm of his mill at Berwick, instead of half a chalder of corn, granted to him by the charter of King William.

In commemoration of these examples of religious severity, a Priory was founded here, according to Leland, for six Benedictine Monks, subordinate to Durham, with a revenue of 13 marks from the corporation of Newcastle. The endowment at the dissolution was estimated at 12l. 17s. 8d. King Henry VIII. in the 33d year of his reign, granted it to the Dean and Chapter of Durham. [†]

The remains of these edifices are very ragged and confused, and shew little other than marks of severity and inconvenience, notwithstanding the happy taste which is denoted in the scites of most of the religious houses of the same date. A part of a square tower is standing, which was built by one Castle, [*] Prior of Durham, in the beginning of the 15th century: part of the priory is also remaining; near which is shewn a stone coffin, intended to have enclosed the hallowed remains of St. Cuthbert. [†]

These erections are on the best part of the island; a little lawn skirts the edifices, surrounded with rugged rocks, from whence issues a spring of fresh water. Since the departure of the religious, this island has returned almost to its pristine state: it consists of a few acres in its whole surface, the chief part of which is sand and rock. A scanty herbage takes place indeed in some spots, especially on the little lawn; but there is neither tree or shrub. The shore is rocky, and sounding to the hollow sea which rolls upon it, sends forth a horrid howling: the north-east winds blow fiercely here, and every inclemency of weather known to the climate beats on these inhospitable shores, which are tremendous from frequent shipwrecks.—There is not a coast more likely to give one the idea of shoals of wandering spirits, who visit the semisepulta Ossa, over which they loiter on this side Styx, whilst unfriendly whirlwinds wreck them over with sand, and forbid the funeral rites for which they languish.

We left

Notes

*
The effect of oil on troubled waters, mentioned lately as a modern and accidental discovery, was known in very distant ages: it was practised in this country, and esteemed a miracle. Indeed most of the miraculous works of the religious were deduced from some knowledge of the simplest principles of nature, discovered and displayed in ages of profound ignorance. In Bede's third book of the history of the Church of England, touching the miracles wrought by Aidan, this practice is thus mentioned.
A certain priest named Utta, a man of great gravity and sincerity, and one who for his qualities and truth was well esteemed, was commissioned to go into Kent, for Eanflede, King Edwine's daughter, who after her father's death had been sent thither, in order to her espousal with King Oswin. He was to travel by land to Kent, but to return by sea; on which account he addressed Bishop Aidan, beseeching him to put up fervent prayers to God to prosper their Voyage. The Bishop gave them his blessing, and having recommended them devoutly to the protection of God, he also delivered to Utta some jars of hallowed oil, saying, I foresee that whilst you are at sea, a sudden tempest will come upon you; remember to cast into the troubled waters the oil that I give you, and and speedily the tempest shall be assuaged, the sea be calmed, and you shall have a pleasant passage. All these things were fulfilled according to the prophecy. At the beginning of the tempest, when the waves and surges chiefly raged, the sailors endeavoured in vain to cast anchor; but the storm increased, and the waves multiplied so fast, that the vessel was almost filled with water, and nothing but immediate death presented itself. In this distress the Priest had recourse to the Bishop's directions, and took the pot of oil, some of which he cast into the sea, and the sea was immediately calmed, the sun soon after shone forth, and the ship proceeded with a prosperous voyage. Thus the man of God, through the spirit of prophecy, predicted the tempest, and by the same holy spirit, though he was himself absent, appeased the same.

↵

*

There ly certen isles adjoining to Farne Island, bigger then Farne itself. But in them is no habitation. Certn bigge foules, caullid S. Cuthbertes byrdes, brede in them, and puffins, birdes less than dukkes, having grey fethers like dukkes, but without painted fethers, and a ring about the nek, be found breding ther in the cliffy rokkes.

Lel. Itin. vol. 6.

↵

*
I am apt to doubt whether Aidan ever made any other retreat to these islands, than merely occasional, and for no longer stay, than to put up his supplications to heaven on singular events; where from greater privacy he might possess more fervour of mind, than he could command in the cells of a convent.
↵

†

Farne dicitur insula medio in mari posita, &c. sed aliquot milibus passuum ab hac semiinsula distans, quae et hinc altissimo, & inde infinito clauditur oceano.

Qui videlicet miles Christi, ut, devicta tyrannorum acie, monarchus terrae, quam adierat, factus est, condidit civitatem suo aptam imperio, & domos in hac aeque civitati congruas erexit. Est autum aedificium situ pene rotundum, a muro usque ad murum mensura 4or. ferme sive quinque, perticarum distentum, murus ipse deforis altior longitudine stantis hominis. Nam intrinsecus imam caedendo rupem multo illum fecit altiorem, quatenus ad cohibendam oculorum simul & cogitationum lasciviam, ad erigendam in superna desideria, totam mentis intentionem, pius incola nil de sua mansione praeter coelum posset intueri. Quem videlicet murum non secto lapide, vel latere, & caemento, sed impolitis, prorsus lapidibus & cespite, quem de medio loci fodiendo tulerat composuit.

Duas in mansione habebat domos, oratorium scilicet & aliud ad communes usus aptum habitaculum; quorum parietes quidem de naturali terra multum intus forisque circumsodiendo sive cedendo confe•it. Culmina vero de lignis informibus & foeno super posuit. Porro ad portum insulae major erat domus, in qua visitantes eam fratres suscipi, & quiescere possent. Nec longe ab ea fons eorundem usibus accomodus.

Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 158 —Bede

↵

*
Thomas the First succeeded at Farn Isle, A. D. 1158.—Randal's Manuscripts.
↵

†

Richard Bishop of Durham, sirnamed the Poor, was translated from Salisbury, A. D. 1226. His memory was revered for his pious act in paying his predecessor's debts. Ob. Apr. 15, A. D. 1237, and was buried in the nunnery at Tarent, of his own foundation.

A. D. 1238, Thomas the Second of Melsonby succeeded in Farn Isle, where he died.—Ibid.

↵

*
Whart. Aug. Sax. v. 1. p. 735.
↵

†

Farn Island, by Mr Speed corruptly called Frameland, Flaneland, and Ferne eland.

A priory of six or eight Benedictine Monks, subordinate to Durham, valued at 12l. 17s. 8d. per annum.—Dugdale and Speed. It was granted to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, 33 Henry VIII.

Vide in Bourne's Hist of Newcastle, p. 199, Assisam per Priorem Dunelm. contra majorem et ballivos Novi Castri pro redditu annuo Tresdecem marcarum et decem solidorum concesso domni de Farneland anno 25 R. Edward 3.— P. 209, Requietantiam Prioris Dunelm. pro redditu praedicto debit ad festum S. Michaelis anno 5 R. Henry 5.—P. 218, R. Henry 7. Confirmationem istius redditus anno regni 7.

Pat. 41 Henry 3.

Claus. 10th Edward 2. de quinque quarteriis frumenti singulis annis e maneriis de Toghale et Swinson.

Pat. 9 Edward 3.

Claus. 2 Henry 4. de XIII Marcis annui redditus concessis de redditu Novi Castri per regem Edvardum.

Rec. in Scac. 7 Henry 7. Trin. Rot. 11. Confirmationem super Carta R. Henry 4. de redditu Novi Castri.

Tanner, p. 394.

‘In the above assize, the revenue is thus mentioned.’
That our Lord Edward lately King of England, had in his life by word of mouth granted to the Monks dwelling in the island of Farneland, near Bambrough, which island is a cell to the Priory of Durham, 10 quarters of corn and 2 tuns of wine, to be received every year by the hands of the Mayor and Bailiffs of Newcastle upon Tyne, as an alms, &c. for ever. Our present Lord the King being willing to fulfil and continue his (father's) will in this part, hath granted to the aforesaid Monks, as a compensation of the aforesaid corn and wine, 13 marks and 10s. to be received every year at the feast of St. Michael, by the hands, &c. from the fee of the said town, namely, 5 marks for every tun of wine, and 5 shillings for every quarter of corn, to be paid &c. for ever.

Bourne, p. 200.

↵

*

Prior Castel of Dyrham, the last save one, buildid the toure in Farne Islane for defence owt of the grounde. Ther was a chapel and a poore house afore.

Lel. Itin. vol. 5.

↵

†

There was a church built there, for the women to hear mass, pray, and receive the sacrament, afterwards demolished; and another built for the same use by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, called the Gallilee.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

ELLINGHAM

on our right hand, the seat of one of the Haggerston family, an ancient barony of the family of Guagy, who possessed it in the time of King Henry I. as appears by the Testa de Nevil: it was afterwards the possession of the Hetons. [*] The church was founded by Ralph de Guagy, in the pontificate of Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham.

We passed through

Notes

*

Sir Allan de Heton acquired great honour in the siege of Berwick, under Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland.

Holl. Chron. vol. 2.

↵

EMBLETON,

the ancient barony of the family of Viscounts, as is shewn by the escheats of King Edward I. and the Testa de Nevil: it is said afterwards to have become annexed to the Dutchy of Lancaster, and now is the property of the Earl of Tankerville.

Some authors assert, that in this parish was born Duns Scotus,
[†]
that learned Sectary, and claim for their evidence his manuscript works in Merton College, Oxford, in which is an entry to this effect: ‘John Duns born in a certain little village or hamlet, within the "parish of Emildon, called Dunston, in the county of Northumberland."’ In Camden we find his lamentable exit thus mentioned: ‘But he died miserably, being taken with an apoplexy, and over hastily buried for dead; whilst upon return of life, nature (though too late) was about to throw off the violence of the disease, (and he making a lamentable noise calling for help) after he had for some time beat his head against his coffin, he dashed out his own brains, and at last yielded up his vital breath.’

In our road to Dunstanbrough, we had a view of

Notes

†

Johannes Scotus, born at Dunston, a Franciscan Friar, got the title of Doctor Subtilis. He maintained against the Thomists, that the blessed Virgin was conceived with sin. He died of a fit of an apoplexy at Colen.

England's Worthies.

The famous Doctor Joannes Duns, alias Scotus, lived in the time of Bishop Lamberton (he died 1328). He was born in the town of Duns, in the county of Mers, and being yet a child, after some taste he had got of the Latin tongue, by the perswaision of two Minorite Friars, went to Oxford, studying Logic in Morton College: then applying himself to scholastic Divinity, grew to such a perfection therein, as he was called the subtle Doctor; and was followed of a number, who after his name are called to this day Scotistae. After he had professed a while at Oxford, he was called to read divinity in the university of Paris, and from thence went to Colon, where he died of the apoplexy. They write that after he was laid in grave, his spirits did return, and that striving to get forth, he was there smothered; whereupon an Italian did write this epigram.

Quaecunque humani fuerant jurisque sacrati

In dubium veniunt cuncta vocante Scoto

Quid? quod et dubium illius sit vita vocata,

Morte illum simili ludificante stropha;

Quam non ante virum vita jugularet adempta,

Quam vivus tumulo conditus ille foret.

The English writers contend that this Scotus was born in England, in Dunstane village within the parish of Emilden, in the county of Northumberland; and confirm it by the manuscripts reserved in the Library of Merton Collge, in one whereof are written these words, Explicit actura subtilis Doctoris in Universitate Oxoniensi (super libros sententiarum) Doctoris Joannis Duns nati in villa de Emilden vocata Dunstan contracta Duns, in comitatu Northumbriae, pertinens ad Domum scholasticorum de Marton Hall in Oxonio & quondam dictae Domus socii. But this is no sufficient proof; for it may be probably supposed, that he living at Oxford, in England, when the wars were so hot betwixt the two kingdoms, did dissemble his country, and pretend himself to be an Englishman born to eschew the hatred of the Students. In Colen, where he might without danger shew of what country he was, he did profess himself a Scot, and the Minorites (of which order he was) did therefor upon his tomb, erected in their church, at the end of the quire nigh unto the high altar, set this inscription, which is there yet to be seen:

Scotia me genuit, Anglia suscepit

Gallia edocuit, Germania tenet.

What a fine subtle wit he had, the monuments left by him to posterity do witness. He died young in the year 1308.

Spotswood's Hist. Ch. of Scot.

↵

ROCK,

a little village, situate on an eminence, commanding a fine prospect. It was a dependent manor, and member of the barony of Alnwick. The family of Rocks possessed it in the time of King Edward I. as appears by the escheats of that reign.

We now approached the ruins of

DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE,

which though extensive, have at a distance a ragged and confused appearance. Nothing remains but the outworks on two sides to the land, viz. the west and south, which with stupenduous cliffs to the sea enclose a plain nearly square, consisting of about nine acres. The Keep and interior works, if there ever were any, are totally gone, the plough-share having passed within the walls.[*] The rocks to the north are perpendicular, of a columniary form, about 30 feet in height, black and horrible; the shore rugged, covered with broken rocks woven over with sea-weed. From the edge of the sea cliffs on the north-west point, the western wall runs along the brink of an elevated rock; a square tower arises near the center of this wall, of a considerable height, and of excellent masonry, placed on a projecting point of the cliff, so as to afford to the armed men within a means of flanking the wall with their missile weapons; on each corner there was an exploratory turret. This seems to be the most modern part of the castle, built of the best materials, and by the ablest workmen. Where the land rises to the summit of the rock on the south-west point, the wall turns and makes a long straight front to the south, as represented in the plate: the ground before it is level, and appears to have been assisted by art, to form a more commodious parade for the garrison. In this front there is a gate-way, built in a very remarkable stile, being the great entrance to the castle: it is formed by a circular arch, with a portico and interior gate; is defended by two heavy semicircular towers uniting with the superstructure of the gate-way: these towers, after rising about 20 feet, and containing two tiers of apartments, support turrets of a square form, now so very rugged and ruinous, as not to allow a conjecture what was their original height. This wall extends to the cliffs on the sea banks, is guarded by two square bastions and a small sally-port, and is terminated by a square tower with a gate-way. On the brink of the cliff to the sea, on this quarter, appear the remains of a very strong wall; indeed it is probable the whole Area was originally so enclosed. The heavy seas which break upon the rocks of the north-west point have torn them much; and it appears as if the area had been originally of greater extent than at present, many separate columns of rock standing near the cliffs, which some ages ago may have been joined to the main land. At the south point of the area is the well: near to the eastern tower are the remains of a chapel. Immediately below this tower is a gully or passage of perpendicular sides, formed in the rocks, about 60 yards in length and 40 feet deep, where the sea makes a dreadful inset, breaking into foam with a tremendous noise: the spray occasioned thereby is driven within the castle walls. This place is called by the country people the Rumble Churn. The gulph, from the walls of the tower, which I ascended to obtain the view, has a very awful appearance: you look immediately down upon the abyss, where, as the tide rushes up, the waters are lifted many feet above the common level, rising towards the walls of the tower, as if they would surmount the cliffs and deluge the plain. The breaking of the waves in foam over the extreme point of the rocks, the heavy spray, the noise of the disturbed waters, and the groan which echo returns through the desolated towers, are noble, though tremendous.

The date of this castle is fixed by authors to the beginning of the 14th century, Thomas Earl of Lancaster, General of the confederate army which opposed King Edward II. being said to be the founder. He was also owner of Pomfret Castle, where, after being taken by the King's troops at Burrowbridge, he was imprisoned, and soon after decollated as a traitor; though afterwards he was canonized, and the place of his martyrdom took the name of St. Thomas's Hill. He was possessed of immense estates, and was the most powerful and opulent subject in Europe, holding at once the Earldoms of Lancaster, Lincoln, Salisbury, Leicester, and Darby. The King sat personally on his trial, a remarkable circumstance: he died 25th March, 1322, and was buried on the south side of the high altar in the priory church there. Such veneration was paid to his tomb, as the enthusiasts wasted on that of Becket. The King of his royal clemency remitted the severities of his sentence, by which he was condemned to be hanged and quartered, an infamy which seldom had fallen on those of royal descent, he being grandson of King Henry III. But so fluctuating are human affairs, that the ignominious exit of this Earl, gave exalted honours to his name after his death: he was enrolled in the list of Martyrs, was canonized, and his portrait placed among those of sacred memory in the cathedral of St. Paul's.
[*]
In the succeeding reign, Henry the brother of the Martyr, obtained from parliament a reversion of the attainder, and restitution of the family honours and estates. He held great offices in government, was one of the guardians of King Edward III. by whom he was created Duke of Lancaster, and on that investiture, had licence to have his chancery within the Dutchy, and issue process there. We do not hear of this fortress being made memorable by any singular conflict, till the unfortunate conclusion of the affairs of King Henry VI. and the total destruction of the Rose of Lancaster. Queen Margaret perceiving that the French succours were too inconsiderable to induce the Northumbrians to rise in her favour, made another voyage, and having borrowed a sum of money and gained a reinforcement of 2000 men, in October, 1462, she landed near Bambrough. Her return with those aids did not yet induce the people of Northumberland to take up arms. Through the treachery of Sir Ralph Gray, the castle of Alnwick was surrendered to her. Margaret hearing that King Edward was advancing with a numerous army, found it necessary again to seek refuge in Scotland: to this end she embarked, but a violent storm arising, she was in imminent peril, and at length gained the port of Berwick. [*] Brezè her General, with about 500 of his troops, were shipwrecked on Holy Island, where they were all slain or taken prisoners, except Brezè himself, who escaped to the Queen in a fishing-boat. Edward on his arrival in Northumberland, finding no enemy in the field, laid siege to the castles of Alnwick, Bambrough, and Dunstanbrough, the latter of which, after holding out a considerable time, was at length taken by storm, and the garrison made prisoners: after which they dismantled this fortress, and as much as possible destroyed the fortifications; since which time it has lain in ruins. It appears by the escheats of Queen Elizabeth, to be in the possession of the Crown in that reign; King James I. granted it to the Grays of Wark, and it is now the possession of Lord Tankerville.

We passed by

Notes

*

Within the circumference of which there grew not long since 240 Winchester bushels of corn, beside several cart loads of hay.

Gibson's Camden.

↵

*

The following account of this matter, extracted from the Chronique of William de Pakington, is contained in the 1st vol. Lel. Col. p. 461. &c.—About this tyme Henry Lacy Erle of Lincoln dyed, and charged Thomas of Lancastre his sunne yn law and heyre, that he should maynteine his quarelle agaynst Peter Gaveston. Be whos meanes after, and the Counte of Warwickes, was Pers Geveston behedid at Gaverishith by Warwick the xxix of Juin yn the yere of our Lord 1312. King Eduarde lamenting and desiring of God that he might ons be revengid of Peter Gavestons dethe.

The Nobles of England seing the infinite covetusnes of the Dispenser, came to Thomas of Lancastre to treate a meane for it. And after of one assent made assemble at Shirburne yn Elmede. And sending the Kings supplication, and not hard, the Barons went into the Marches of Wales, and destroyid the Dispensars landes. Then King Edward, at the motion of the Dispensars, banishid John Mountbray, Roger Clifford, Gofeline Dainville, and dyvers others. And after the Barons caulid by brief to a parlament cam with 3 battayles in order, having ten colourid bandes on theyr sleves, wherefore it was caullid the parlement de la Bende. And yn this company were Humfre de Boun Counte of Hereforde, Syr Hugh de Andeley, Sir Roger Damare, &c. &c.

The Barons hering (the King had taken the castle of Leeds) both the Mortymers toke Brigenorth, for the which the King banished, by proclamation, Thomas of Lancastre and Humfrede Boun with al theyr adherents.

And after the King cumming agayn his Barons with a stronge hoste, both Mortymer the uncle, and Mortymer the nephew, put them self yn the Kinges grace, and were sent to the Toure of London.

The Barons hering this cam to Pontfract, to Thomas of Lancastre, and theire gathering theire poure, assauted the Kinges castel of Tikhille, but not wynning it.

And hering of the Kinges hoste, went to Burton apon Trente, keping the Bridge to let the Kinges passage. But the Kinge passid per foro•, and thens wente the Barons with Thomas Lancastre to Tuttebyri, and thens to Pontefract. And yn this gorney Syr Roger Dainmore dyed yn the abbay of Tuttebyry.

After this Thomas Lancastre and the Barons counselid together in Blake Freres in Pontfracte, and the Baron concludid to go to Dunstanburg, a castel of Thomas of Lancasters in Northumberland: but he utterly refusid that counsel, lest it might have be thought, that he had, or wolde have intelligence with the Scottes. Wherefore he intendid to remayne at his castel at Pontfract.

Syr Roger Clyfford hering this, toke oute his dagger, and sayde, that he wolde kille him his oune handes in that place, except he woold go with them.

Then Thomas Lancastre a force granted, and went with them, having in company VII. C. menne to borowbridge.

To Borowbridge came Syr Andrew he Harkeley, Warden of Cairluel and that Marches, and Syr Simon Warde, to encountre with the Barons. Where Thomas Lancastre told Harkeley his juste quarel agayne the Dispensers, promising hym, if he would favor his cause, one of the V Countes that then he had in possession. But Herkeley refusid his offre. Them Thomas prophetied that he wold sore repent, and that shortly, so fair, and that he should dy a shameful deth, that is to say, to be hangid, drawn and quartered.

Then Harkeley, whom Thomas of Lancastre had afore tyme made Knight, made his archiers to shote, and so did the Barons upon the bridge. And emong al other, one gotte unde the bridge, and at a hole thruste with a launce the renounid Knight thorough oute al Christentye Humfrede de Boun yn the foundemente, so that his bowels cam oute. And Syr Roger Clifforde was sore wonded on the hedde. And Syr William Sulley and Syr Roger Bernefeld were slayne. And then wente Thomas Lancastre into a chapel, denying to rendre hymself to Harkeley, and said, looking on the crucifix, ‘Good Lord, I render myself to thee, and put me yn to thy mercy.’

Then they toke of his cote armures, and put on hym a ray cote, or goune, one of his mennes lyveryes, and caried hym by water to York, were they threw balles of dyrte at hym. And the residew of the Barons part were pursuid from place to place, and to the church hold was no reverence gyven, and the father pursuid the sunne, and the sunne the father.

The King hering of this discumfiture, cam with the Dispenfars and other Nobles his adherentes to Ponfracte.

Syr Andrew of Herkeley brought Thomas of Lancastre to Pontfracte to the Kinge, and there was put in a towre that he had newly made toward the abbay, and after juged in the haule sodenly by thes Justices, Syr Hugh Dispensar the father, Syr Aimer Counte of Pembroke, Syr Edmunde Counte of Kent, Syr John de Britayne, and Syr Robert Malmethorp, that pronouncid his judgement.

Then Thomas Lancastre sayd, Shaul I dy with owt answer?"

Then certayne Gascoyne toke hym away, and put a pillid broken hatte or hoode on his hedde, and set hym on a lene white jade with owt bridil, and he than cryed thus, ‘King of Heaven have mercy on me. For the King of Herth nous ad querpi.’

And thus he was caryed, sum throwing pelottes of dyrt at hym, and having a frere Precher for his Confessor with hym, on to a hille withowte the toune, where he knelid doune toward the este, on tille one Hughinde Muston causid hym to turne his face towarde Scotlande: wher kneling, a villayne of London cut of his hedde, 11 Cal. Aprilis anno D. 1321. And after the Prior and the Monkes required his body, and got it of the King, and buried it on the right hand of the hy altare.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 464, &c.

↵

*

King Henry, the Duke of Excestre, and the Duke of Somersete, and other Lordes that fled, had kepte Alnewicke, Banborow, Dunstanburgh, Warkworth, and mannid and intailid them.

Syr Peers de Brasile, the great warriour of Normandy, cam to help Queen Margaret with French men, and XX. M. Scottes, and to remove King Edwardes men from Alnewik sige, and the residew of other castelles ther. By this meane both Edwardes men were aferde of the Scottes, as recoiling from the siege; and the Scottes aferd of Edwardes men, lest they had recoylid to bring them to a trap. And Henrys men issuyng owte of to much boldnes, gave Edwardes men oportunitie to enter into the castel.

Ibid. p. 499.

↵

CRAISTER,

a neat little mansion, the ancient manor of the family of that name. We find them settled here in the reign of King Edward I. as appears by the escheats [*] of that time.[†]

Notes

*

- William de Craster 1 King Edward I.

- Sir Edmund 26 King Edward III.

- Richard 13 King Edward IV.

- Edmund King Edward IV. granted lands for their faithful services. Edmund was Governor of Bambrough Castle.

- Richard King Edward IV. granted lands for their faithful services. Edmund was Governor of Bambrough Castle.

- John 12 King Henry VI.

- Edmund 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- John

- George, the present owner.

Wallis.

↵

†

The manor of Crawcester, Crawster, now Craster, is on the banks of the sea, and lays in the parish of Embleton.

William de Craster held it, 1 King Edward I. by half a Knight's fee of the Barony of Embleton.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

HOWICK

lay to our left, as we passed to Alnwick, one of the ancient members of the Barony of Alnwick, the possession of the family of Greys. We do not trace this family, in ancient records, to be settled here earlier than the reign of King Henry VIII. this being a branch of the ancient Chillingham family.[‡] The old tower noted by Leland still remains, being
ALNWICK CASTLE

kept in good repair, and now forming a part of the mansion-house. The church was rebuilt by the 1st Sir Harry Grey, though he was not the patron.

We now gained a sight of the town of

Notes

‡

The following character of its late owner, Sir Henry Grey, was given in the public prints. Howick, May 7th, 1759. Last night about nine, by his own express order, the remains of Sir Harry Grey, Knt. and Baronet, who died in the 58th year of his age, were deposited in the family vault of this church. A Gentleman of an ancient and honourable family, and of the greatest personal worth and merit; an upright and impartial magistrate, and zealously attached to the established government, and to the true interest of his King and country; an affectionate husband, a tender father, a kind master, and a generous landlord; one of the greatest probity and sincerity, and no less conscientious in the discharge of divine than social duties; of a very charitable and beneficent disposition, as appears by the following instances (among many others): Upon the scite of an old decayed church here, he erected a new one of an elegant taste, and not inferior to any of its size in those northern parts, upon which he expended at least 500 l. He laid out 100 l. towards building a convenient school-house, for the use of the poor children of this parish, and to the former salary of 10l. a year for the master, for teaching all the indigent children gratis, he has added the interest of 200l. yearly for the master's better subsistence and encouragement. And besides a liberal distribution to the necessitous of this place and others at his funeral, he has bequeathed the interest of 100l. to be given annually on his birth-day, for the relief of the indigent inhabitants of the parish. He was endowed with all the amiable qualities which could endear him to mankind in this life, and perpetuate his memory after death to the latest posterity. He is succeeded in his estate and honours by his eldest son, of the same name.

- Sir Ralph Grey, Knt. King Henry VIII. and Edward VI.

- Thomas Grey

- John Grey, High Sheriff of Northumberland, 14 King William III.

- Sir Harry Grey, High Sheriff. 1736.

- Sir Harry Grey.

↵

ALNWICK,

and as we approached from the north-east, had a most pleasing prospect of the palace of the Duke of Northumberland,

THE CASTLE OF ALNWICK.

The situation is not naturally elegant, the aspect being rather confined, and the adjacent lands affording no original beauties. The opposite hills rise tamely, and are not yet brought into such order, as to possess artificial graces enough, to conceal the want of that variety and beauty, which a traveller wishes to find surrounding so noble a palace. The woody banks of the Aln, with all the wild romantic scenes which hang upon her borders, are excluded from the prospect. The castle stands upon a fine elevation, rising gradually from the river, whose open banks are turfed and kept in the most exact neatness under the gardener's scythe; but withal, possessing that trim countenance, given by straight lines and angles, level walks, and slopes of a mechanical formality; a garb in which nature doth not look the most lovely. The castle is a noble structure, rebuilt on the old foundation, and in the Saxon style; the architect has strictly preserved the whole modes and ornaments of the original: the battlements are crowded with effigies, according to the taste of the Normans, in whose time it underwent a principal reparation: these represent men in the act of defence, wielding such arms as were then used; some of them are disposed with great propriety, the guard of one of the gate-ways is in the attitude of casting down a mighty stone on the heads of assailants. The building is of a beautiful free-stone, in chisel'd work; its form is singular, being composed of a cluster of semicircular and angular bastions. I cannot, without the ichnography of the place, give the reader a more competent idea of its figure, than by comparing it to a section of the clustered Saxon pillar in our cathedrals. This edifice stands in a spacious area, which at the time of its greatest strength, I presume, totally surrounded it, defended by a compleat circumvallation and a moat; otherwise the principal part of the fortress would have lain unguarded by any outwork, except a moat. At present the front is opened to the north-east, and the wall having towers at proper intervals, shuts it in on the other quarters. As we viewed the castle on our approach, the walls with its towers formed a noble flanking to the principal structure: to the southward, the garden grounds appeared prettily disposed; to the north and west, the town of Alnwick was seen spreading on the back ground. We lamented the want of some of those fine woodlands, and lofty grey rocks, which impend over the Aln, above Alnwick, to give rural and romantic graces to objects so imperial, if I may be permitted to use the expression, in distinguishing this noble edifice.

We passed over an elegant stone bridge, on our approach to the town, the battlements formed of interwoven crescents: we found the Inn crowded with people of fortune, come from all parts of the county, to pay their compliments to the Duke and Duchess,[*] it being their first public day, after their arrival at this palace for the summer recess.

The approach to the castle retains much of the solemn grandeur of ancient times: the inscription on the gate-way still legible, ‘Esperance me comforteth,’ appertained to the arms of the Percies, and was placed there when the repairs were made by that family: the moat is drained, and the ceremony of letting down the draw-bridge is forgot; but the walls which enclose the area still wear the ancient countenance of strength and defiance. You enter by a machicolated gate, defended by an upper tower, and after passing a covered way, approach the interior gate which admits you to the area: this entrance is defended by all the devices used in ancient times; iron studded gates, portcullis, open galleries, and apertures in the arching for annoying assailants. The ingenious traveller, Mr Pennant, had been out of humour when he visited this place. We met with all the inconveniences of a noisy and crowded Inn, with every awkward circumstance which could befall travellers, who had undergone no little fatigue in pursuing the paths of pleasure; and yet we could not submit to coincide with that gentleman's sentiments: ‘You look (says he) in vain, for any marks of the grandeur of the feodal age, for trophies won by a family eminent in our annals for military prowess and deeds of chivalry; for halls hung with helms and hauberks, or with the spoils of the chace; for extensive forests and venerable oaks. Ye look in vain for the helmet on the tower, the ancient signal of hospitality to the traveller, or for the grey-headed Porter, to conduct him to the hall of entertainment. The numerous train whose countenances give welcome to him on his way, are now no more; and instead of the disinterested Usher of the old times, he is attended by a Valet, eager to receive the fees of admittance.’ I must beg leave to pronounce, that though the savage ferocity of the feodal ages is taken away, yet not the marks of grandeur: we saw no miserable dungeons filled with captives, no places of execution groaning under their execrable burthen; the towers remain, but without the cry of captivity and torture: Hospitality cloathed in princely array, sits in the hall, dispensing with a brow of benignity, mixed with features of the highest magnificence, gifts worthy her hand: the Duke and Duchess are easy of access, and of an affable deportment; their visitants are happy under their smiles, without being awed by their eminence. The attention they pay to the petitions of dependents, is marked with the greatest benevolence; no vain promises are given to still importunity, no hopes are flattered without sincerity—the strictest honour attends the most trivial actions. A truly great principle distinguishes these noble personages; amidst a happy liberality, there is so exact a propriety, and such perfect oeconomy, that no transaction passes in the household, without a certain rule, and singular regularity. The innumerable charities they pour forth, are bestowed with such admirable propriety, that each person relieved at the gate, brings a ticket as an authority to the officer for the dispensation of his Lord's bounty; so that improper objects cannot deceive, or crafty knaves obtain the portion assigned for the relief of the truly necessitous and meritorious object. To enumerate acts of benevolence is inconsistent with my plan, but some are so singularly worthy the world's attention, that I cannot resist the pleasure of relating a single transaction, which on my hearing it, brought tears of joy into my eyes.

Her grace returning from an airing in her chariot, passed through the ranks of people in the gate-ways, who attended to receive a daily distribution to the poor. A widow oppressed with grievous necessity, could not leave her domestic employment, or her labour, to attend with her ticket; she entrusted it to her daughter, a girl about seven years of age, who took her parent's place at the gate. Her Grace observed this girl employed in knitting, whilst all the rest of the indigent group sat with idle hands: she sent a servant to bring the child to her, who received the message with astonishment and apprehension; she followed the messenger with trembling steps, revolving in her mind the supposed offences she had committed, and looking with eyes swimming in tears on the ill-fated work, she held in her hand, as the cause of her Grace's displeasure. Pale with apprehension of reproof, she approached the Duchess; confusion and dread were mixed upon her features, whilst looks of timid innocence lived in her eyes. Her grace perceived the child's distress, but conceived not the cause. When the infant had recollected courage enough to give her the power of expression, she began a faultering and fearful excuse for the supposed crime she had committed, in knitting at the gate: a smile of divine benevolence arose upon the Duchess's countenance—simplicity and native innocence have great charms —she was won by the child's sensibility as well as by her industry. The girl was taken from her indigent mother, cloathed and put to school, where she is acquiring those accomplishments, which one day will advance her above the rank of her humble progenitors.

The inside of this palace is finished in a most splendid taste, every thing (to use Mr Pennant's expression) being compleated with ‘an incompatible elegance.’ A particular account of suits of apartments, finished and furnished in the highest manner, would be tedious: the rich variety is for the eye only. The chief descriptions I will borrow from Mr Grose's work; to which gentleman I am bound to pay due acknowledgments for his elegant drawing, from which the preceding plate was engraved by the ingenious artist Mr Bailey, who was my fellow-traveller.

A description of Alnwick Castle, taken from an ancient survey of divers of the possessions of the Right Hon. the Earl of Northumberland, made about the year 1567, by George Clarkson, Surveyor of all his Lordship's lands, and other the said Earl's officers, remaining among the evidences of their Graces the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland at the said castle in 1775.

The castell of Alnewike ys a verye ancyent large beutifull and portlie castle, scytewate on ye southe side of ye ryver of Alne upon a lytle mote. The circuite therof by estimacon about the walles cclxxvj yeards; conteyninge in yt self vxx.xiiij (5 score and 14) roodes. In ye wch ys thre principall wards. And in the utter warde, where ys the entry from the towne, ys a fair gate house coverid wth lead, with ij paire of wood gates, and on ether syde ys a porter's lodge wth ijo house height aboute: which ys now rewynoose and in decaye, by reasone the flores of the upper house ys decayed, as well in dormounts and joasts, as in boordes, and very necessarie to be repayred. Without wch gayts ther ys a very faire turnepike, dooble battelled aboute, wth a pare of wo•le gats in the uttermoste pte therof. Betwene wch turnpike and the greate gats, yt seamythe theer hathe bene a drawe bridge, but yt ys now filled uppe & paved. From the said gathouse, towards ye north, ys a curtane wall, of lenth vij roods dim. (seven & a half) & betwene yt & a towre standinge on ye northe west corner, called the Abbots Towre. And in the said courten wall on the inner parte ys a turret covered wth free stone, wch ys upon ye wall twoo houses hight. The said towre, called ye Abbotts Towre, ys of thre house hight: ye west house is the Armorie. From the Aboots towre towards the easte ys an other curtaine wall joynige unto the wall of ye dungeon, conteyinge in lenthe xxxijo roods: and in ye same as in ye middle, betwixt yt & ye dungeon ys twoo lytle garrets.[*] From the easte moste garrett havinge a chamber, to the dungeone, ye said wall hathe no battelment to walke upon. On ye other parte of the gate-house towarde ye southe ys a curtaine wall of lengthe fortie twoo yeards to a towre called ye Corner Towre. In ye midle betwen ye gatehouse and the said corner towre ys one garrett in the wall; in the upper parte wherof ys a lytle chamber; the neather parte servinge for a buttresse to ye wall.

‘Betwene the said corner towre & the midle gatehouse, turning easte, ys a curtaine wall of length lxx yeardes, in the which ys one towre raised of viijth yeards square, of three houses height, called th' Auditors Towre. The under house ys a stable, & th' other houses two fare chambers covered with leade & in good reparacions.’

‘Within the said utter curten ys one house, of two house height, standinge on the lefte hande at the partinge of ye gate, called ye Checker House, the under houses servinge for lodgings, the upper house for a courte house; covered wth slate and in good raparacions. And in ye same courte on th' other hande of the gate, standinge northe & southe, ys a nother house for a stable of twoo house heighte; th' under parte onelie servith for stables; ye over parte therof ys to be loftede and serve for keapinge of graine nowe newlie builded. Another like house, a stable, standeth on the right hande betwen ye gaits easte and weste, coverid of late wth slaits, and in good reparacions.’

‘The gate house towre for the mydle gate, is a towre of thre house height & in some parte iiij house height, on the lefte hande one strong prisone & on the right a porter lodge. All the houses above are lodgings; wherin is conteyned hall, ketchinge, buttrie, pantery and lodginge for a constable or other gentlemen to keipe house in. From the same towre est goithe a corteyne wall to the corner towre on the southe east parte, of leinght vxxvij (five score and seventeen) yeardes: in the which ys raysed one towre at th' ende of ye gardnors of thre house height, and of lenght — yeardes square. Wherein ys on the grounde a stable, the mydle house for haye, the overmoste, a chamber; & betwixt ye same, wch ys covered wth leade, and the said corner towre ys raysed twoo lytle garretts in ye wall; the nether parts servethe for butteryss to the walle, th'other parts servithe onelie for privies, and are coveryd with stone. The said corner towre ys on thre parts rounde, th'inner parte square without wall, conteninge in the rounde therof xvijth (17) yeardes. The same towre ys raysed no heigher then the battlement of the wall, and ys of twoo house height all to gyther in haine, and servithe for a parte of the curtinge wall.’

‘Betwene the same rounde towre, turning towards ye northe west to a towre called the Ravine Towre, ys a curtinge wall of xiiijth (14) yeardes of lengthe: ye same towre ys coviryd wth leade, in good reparations: the towre yt selfe ys so rente yt yt ys mooche like to fall: yt ys also of thre house height; the nether servith for a stable, the midle for a chamber, and in decay wthout lofte, the overmoste a chambre well repayred. This towre ys in thre pts rounde, the iiijth parte square, conteyninge, in the holle xxvjth (26) yeardes.’

‘Betwene the said towre and a towre called the Counstables Towre, ys a cortinge wall of xxxth (30) yerdes of lenght. The said counstables towre, ys three partes rounde, the fourth square, containinge xxxvith (36) yeardes; & ys of thre house heighte; the nether parte servithe for a buttrie; the other ijo parts servithe for two faire lodgings; and yt ys covered with lead, wch wold partly be helped; in all other things yt ys in good reparacions.’

‘Betwene the said towre and the postrene towre, ys a curteine wall contg. xxiiith (23) yeards in lenght; and the same postrene towre ys raysed, of xxxvjth (36) yeardes square, and ys of thre house height; the nether parte servethe for a throughe passinge of ye posterne; th' other for twoo fare chambers. The same ys now coverid wth leade sence my L. entred, and ys in good reparacions. And in ye northe weste coarner of the said towre ys raysed a garrett above ye batttellment therof, and right over the gate of the said posterne. And from the said towre to the dungeon ther is a single curtinge wall without battellment of lenghte.....’

‘Within the said inner courtine, betwixt the said towre of the mydle gate and said lytle four squared towre towards th' easte, ys raised one house upon the courteine wall, of thre house height, well coveryd wth leade; and ys of lenght xxvth (25) yeardes; parte therof now servethe for ijo (two) stables for my Lords horses: th' over parte for ijo gardners. The same house in all things ys in good reparacions.’

‘At th' easte ende of the said gardner ys builded one lytle house of thre cooples and one gavill of stone, and joyned upon the said lytle square towre & ys covered with slate, which neadithe nothinge but pointinge, wth in ye wch is one horse-milne now in decaye, and servith for nothinge.’

‘And a lytell from the said house ys ther a nother house of twoo house height, and ys of iiijth (four) coople of timber, wth twoo stone gavills, covered wth slate, and newly pointed; wch servithe onelie for keapinge of haye. Towards th' easte, joyninge to the said house ys ther a lytle gardine, on th' one syde ys inclosed wth the said cortinge wall; and th' others of a wall made of stone; containing in lenght xijth (12) yeardes. And this gardinge ys kept by Raphe Graye, who hathe ye fee of xxs by yeare for the same, besides ye profett therof. So that the Lorde ys here charged wth more then neadethe; for the profett thereof wolde be sufficyent for his paynes. And from the northe easte corner of the said gardinge, right over to ye said ruinous towre, in auncyent time hath ben faire & tryme lodgings, where nowe be nothinge; the stones therof taken away, and put to other uses in the castell; the place now voide wolde be a tryme gardinge: yt joyneth upon the said rovinte towre. In the southe easte pte of the said cortinge wall, wth small charges, wolde be made a faire bankettinge house wth a faire gallorie, going from the same towards the northe to the said rovine towre.’

‘Ther is neighe ye said curtinge wall, wch ys betwixt ye said counstables towre and rovine towre, ys builded one faire chapell of vijth (seven) yeardes height of the wall, in leinght xixth (19) yeardes, and vijth (seven) yeardes of bredthe, covered wth slate; the windooes well glazed, in all things well repaired, (the sylong thereof only excepted). Betwixt ye said chappell and the said corteyne-wall, ys builded one lytle house of twoo house height, of length viijth (eight) yeards; the neather parte therof called the revestry; th' over parte therof a chamber wth a stone chimley, wherein ye Lord and Ladie, wth ther children, commonly used to heare the service: the same is coverid wth slate; ye lofte therof wolde be repayred.’

‘And before the said chappell dore ys one conducte sett wth stone & a chiste of lead: wch chiste ys three yeards of length, and xviiith (18) inches brod: ye cesterne therof covered wth leade: wherunto comethe a goodlye course of trime and swite water from one well called Howlinge Well in pipes of leade. The same well covered wth a house made of stone. And the water of the said conducte rynnethe in pipes of leade to the brewe house onely, and cannot be brought to have course to any other houses of office, but such as are builded, and to be builded wthout the dungeon.’

‘And betwixt the said constables towre and postern towre, standith one faire brewhouse well covered wth slate, and ys in lenght xxtie. (20) yeardes, in bredthe ixen. (nine) yeardes: wherin ther ys a copper sett in a fornace ekid wth a crybe of clapbord wch will holde lyckor for the brewinge of xxivth. (24) bolles of malte: and in the same brewhouse ther ys all manner of vessells to serve for brewinge of the said quantyte of malte newly made and repayred. Ther wolde be one appointed to keape ye said crybe copper in the fornace. All the sd vessells for brewinge, with pippes and hodgesheads perteyning to the same, sweite; and the theight....’

‘And joyninge upon the said posterne towre standethe the bake house southe and northe; being of lenght xvth (15) yeardes; in breadthe viiith (8) yeardes; well covered with sclate. In the northe ende therof ther be twoo ovens; and in the southe ende one boultinge house well colleryd wth wainscote, the wyndowe therof glaysined, and wolde be repaired. And joyninge to ye southe ende of the said bake house ys builded twoo houses covered wth slate, and of twoo house height; ye neather parte servethe for a slaughter house, and a store house; th' over parte of th' one for hayehouse, th' other for chambers for the launderors; and are in lenght .... foote.’

‘And joyninge upon the west side of the said twoo houses ys the scyte of the chaunterie-house; and the said store-house and chambers above yt did serve ye prests for [their] cellers and chambers; and now nothinge lefte but one [single] wall goinge from the said store house to th' entrie of the .... side of the dungeon gate: wch. ys in lenght xxxiiih (33) yeardes. And the grounde betwene ye. wall, houses and dongeone ys used for a woode garthe. And from the weste side of the said entrie to the towre called ye midle warde, ys another small parcel of grounde inclosed for a wode garthe wth a lytle stone wall of xvj (16) yerds of lenght. And from the said towre, called ye midle warde, ys a single curteyne wall joyned to the said dungeon of xxitie (21) yeardes in lenght.’

‘The dungeon ys sett of a lytle moate made wth men's handes, and for the most parte, as yt were square. The circuite thereof, measured by the brattishing, containeth ccxxvth (225) yeardes. It ys of a fare and pathe buildinge wth vijen (seven) rounde towres, iiijth (four) garretts. Betwixt the same garretts and towres, lodgings: besides the gate house, wch ys two towres of four house height, ys of a statelie buildinge; and th' other towres be all of thre house height and well covered wth leade, as is lykewise the said gatehouse and other lodgings. Rounde about the same dungeon upon the said leade, ys a tryme walk and a faire prospecte, and in sixe parts therof ys passadges and entries to ye same leads. In ye wch dungeon ys hall, chambers and all other manner of houses of offices for ye Lorde & his traine. The south syde therof servethe for the Lordes & Ladies lodgings; and underneighe them the prisone, porter-lodge & wyne celler, wth ye skollerie. On the weste side for chambres and wardrope. The northe side chambers and lodgings. Th' east side the halle, ketchinge, chambers, pantrye. Underneithe ye same hall a marveylouse fare vaulte, wch ys the butterye, in lenght xvij (17) yeards, in breadthe vjth (6) yeardes. And underneighe the same ketchinge a lardnor, and at th' ende of the said butterie a draw-well of long time not occupied. Within the same dungeone ys a proper lytle coortinge for the moste parte square, and well paved with stone. All the chambers and houses of office within the said dungeone in good reparacions, and hathe in the same th' impleyments, bords, and bedstedes perteyninge therunto, as appearethe by indenture. Ther ys raysed on the weste side of the said dungeon one lytle square towre, called the Watche Towre, above ye leades xiiijth (14) yeardes: wherin is placed for a watchemane to ley; and a beaken to be sett or hinge. For that the northe parte of the dungeon ys the owtemoste parte of the castell on that side, yt wolde be good the single courteyne wall, wch ys builded from the dungeone westeward to the eastemoste garrett of the dobble cortinge wall, were taken downe; and a double courtinge wall made by the grounde of the moate of the said dungeone from the said garrett right over to the corner of the said posterne towre. The same shoulde then be a strenght for that parte of the said castell, and serve for divers other good purposes: the length wherof ys lxxth (70) yeardes.’

‘And because throwe extreme winds the glasse of the windowes of this and other my Lord's castells and houses here in this cuntrie doothe decay and waste, yt were goode the whole leights of evrie windowe at the departure of his Lp. from lyinge at anye of his said castells end houses, and dowring the tyme of his Lps. absence or others lying in them, were taken doune and lade upe in safetie; and at sooche tyme, as other his Lp. or anie other sholde lye at anie of the said places, the same might then be sett uppe of newe, wth smale charges to his Lp. wher now the decaye therof shall be verie costlie and chargeable to be repayred.’

‘Alnwick Castle contains about five acres of ground within its outer walls, which are flanked with 16 towers and turrets, that now afford a compleat set of offices to the castle, and maintain many of them their original names, as well as their ancient use and destination.’

"These are,

‘I. The Great or Outward Gate of entrance, anciently called the Utter Ward.’

‘II. The Garner or Avener's Tower: behind which are the stables, coach-houses, &c. in all respects suitable to the magnitude and dignity of this great castle.’

‘III. The Water Tower; containing the cistern or reservoir that supplies the castle and offices with water. Adjoining to this is the laundry, &c.’

‘IV. The Caterer's Tower; adjoining to which are the kitchens, and all conveniencies of that sort.’

‘Behind the adjacent walls are concealed a compleat set of offices and apartments for most of the principal officers and attendants in the castle. Together with a large hall, or dining-room, to entertain the tenants at the audits; with an office for the auditors, housekeeper's room; and underneath these, a servants-hall, with all other suitable conveniencies.’

"V. The Middle Ward.

"VI. The Auditor's Tower.

"VII. The Guard House.

"VIII. The East Garret.

‘IX. The Record's Tower; of which the lower story contains the evidence room, or great repository of the archives of the barony; over it is a circular apartment designed and executed with great taste and beauty for a banquetting room, being 29 feet diameter, and 24 feet 6 inches high.’

‘X. The Ravine Tower, or Hotspur's Chair. Between this and the round tower was formerly a large breach in the walls, which for time immemorial had been called by the town's people, the Bloody Gap.’

‘XI. The Constable's Tower; which remains chiefly in its ancient state, as a specimen how the castle itself was once fitted up.’

‘XII. The Postern Tower, or Sally Port. The upper apartment now contains old armour, arms, &c. The lower story has a small furnace and elaboratory for chymical or other experiments.’

"XIII. The Armourer's Tower.

"XIV. The Falconer's Tower.

‘XV. The Abbot's Tower; so called either from its situation nearest to Alnwick Abbey, or from its containing an apartment for the Abbot of that monastery whenever he retired to the castle.’

"XVI. The West Garret.

‘The castle properly consists of three courts or divisions; the entrance into which was defended with three strong massy gates; called the Utter Ward, the Middle Ward, and the Inner Ward. Each of these gates was in a high embattled tower, furnished with a portcullis, and the outward gate with a draw-bridge also: they had each of them a porter's lodge, and a strong prison, besides other necessary apartments for the constable, bailiff, and subordinate officers. Under each of the prisons was a deep and dark dungeon, into which the more refractory prisoners were let down with cords, and from which there was no exit but through the trap door in the floor above. That of the inner ward is still remaining in all its original horrors.’

‘This castle, like many others in the north, was anciently ornamented with figures of warriors, distributed round the battlements, and therefore the present noble proprietors have allowed them to be continued, and have supplied some that had been destroyed, but to shew what they once were; and, that this is no innovation, they have retained the ancient ones, though defaced, which were placed on the top of the two octagon towers.’

‘From length of time, and the shocks it has sustained in ancient wars, this castle was become quite a ruin, when by the death of Algernon Duke of Somerset, it devolved, together with all the estates of this great barony, &c. to the present Duke and Duchess of Northumberland; who immediately set to repair the same, and with the most consummate taste and judgment restored and embellished it, as much as possible, in the true Gothic style; so that it may deservedly be considered as one of the noblest and most magnificent models of a great baronial castle.’

‘Nothing can be more striking than the effect at first entrance within the walls from the town, when through a dark gloomy gateway of considerable length and depth, the eye suddenly emerges into one of the most splendid scenes that can be imagined; and is presented at once with the great body of the inner castle, surrounded with fair semi-circular towers, finely swelling to the eye, and gayly adorned with pinnacles, figures, battlements, &c.’

‘The impression is still further strengthened by the successive entrance into the second and third courts, thro' great massy towers, till the stranger is landed in the inner court, in the very center of this great citadel.’

‘Here he enters to a most beautiful stair-case, of a very singular yet pleasing form, expanding like a fan: the cornice of the ceiling is inriched with a series of 120 escutcheons, displaying the principal quarterings and intermarriages of the Percy family. The space occupied by this stair-case is 46 feet long, 35 feet 4 inches wide, and 43 feet 2 inches high.’

‘The first room that presents to the left, is the saloon, which is a most beautiful apartment, designed in the gayest and most elegant style of Gothic architecture; being 42 feet 8 inches long, 37 feet 2 inches wide, and 19 feet 10 inches high.’

‘To this succeeds the drawing-room, consisting of one large oval, with a semicircular projection, or bow-window. It is 46 feet 7 inches long, 35 feet 4 inches wide, and 22 feet high.’

‘Hence the transition is very properly to the great dining room; which was one of the first executed, and is of the purest Gothic, with nitches and other ornaments, that render it a very noble model of a great Baron's hall. In this room was an irregularity in the form, which has been managed with great skill and judgment, and made productive of beauty and convenience. This was a large bow-window, not in the center, but towards the upper end, which now affords a very agreeable recess when the family dine alone, or for a second table at the great public dinners. This room is 53 feet 9 inches long, 20 feet 10 inches wide, (exclusive of the circular recess, which is 19 feet in diameter) and 26 feet 9 inches high.’

‘From the dining-room, the stranger may either descend into the court, by a circular Stair-case, or he is ushered into a very beautiful Gothic apartment over the gateway, commonly used for a breakfast or supper-room: this is furnished with closets in the octagon towers, and is connected with other private apartments. It is 38 feet 4 inches long, . . feet wide, and 16 feet 1 inch high.’

‘Hence the stranger is conducted into the library, which is a very fine room, in the form of a parallelogram, properly fitted up for books, and ornamented with stucco-work in a very rich Gothic style; being 64 feet long, . . wide, and 16 feet 1 inch high. This apartment leads to’

‘The chapel; which fills all the upper space of the middle ward. Here the highest display of Gothic ornaments in the greatest beauty has been very properly exhibited; and the several parts of the chapel have been designed after the most perfect models of Gothic excellence. The great east window is taken from one of the finest in York minster. The ceiling is borrowed from that of King's college, in Cambridge; and the walls are painted after the great church in Milan: but the windows of painted glass will be in a stile superior to any thing that has yet been attempted, and worthy of the present more improved state of the arts. Exclusive of a beautiful circular recess for the family the chapel is 50 feet long, 21 feet, 4 inches wide, and 22 feet high.’

‘Returning from the chapel through the library, and passing by another great stair-case, (that fills an oval space 22 feet 9 inches long, and 15 feet 3 inches wide) we enter a passage or gallery which leads to two great state-bed chambers, each 30 feet long, most nobly furnished, with double dressing rooms, closets, and other conveniencies, all in the highest elegance and magnificence, but as conformable as possible to the general stile of the castle. From these bed-chambers the passage opens to the grand stair-case, by which we first entered, and compleats a tour not easily to be paralleled.’

I must now turn my attention to the antiquity and history of this place.

Mr Grose says, ‘it is believed to have been founded in the time of the Romans, although no part of the original structure is now remaining. But when part of the dungeon or castle keep was taken down to be repaired some years ago, under the present walls were discovered the foundations of other buildings, which lay in a different direction from the present; and some of the stones appeared to have Roman mouldings. "The dungeon or keep of the present castle, is believed to have been founded in the Saxon times. The zigzag fret-work round the arch that leads into the inner court, is evidently of Saxon architecture; and yet this was probably not the most ancient entrance; for under the flag tower, before that part was taken down and rebuilt by the present Duke, was the appearance of a gateway that had been walled up; directly fronting the present outward gateway into the town."’

The first proprietor of the barony of Alnwick named in history, is Tyson, who fell at the battle of Hastings, in defence of Harold his King.[*] William the Conqueror gave the heiress of Tyson in marriage to Ivo de Vesey, one of his attendant adventurers; her possessions being very great, as well at Alnwick as in Yorkshire. Beatrix was their issue, and by King Henry I. was given in marriage to Eustace Fitz John; from whom descended four generations, who successively possessed this barony. It was held in capite of the King by 18 Knights fees. This was an illustrious and powerful family.[*]

King William Rufus, being required by King Malcolm of Scotland to fulfil the articles concluded upon in the truce made in 1091, gave the Scotch Monarch assurances of their completion, upon his repairing to his court, to which he ordered him to be honourably conducted. On his arrival, he was received with great insolence and contempt, being refused admittance to the King's presence, who insisted that Malcolm should submit his claim to the judgment of the English peers. Malcolm with a becoming dignity refused, alledging if there was any dispute to his title, it should be settled on the Marches, by men of both nations, agreeable to the laws and customs established there. The English Monarch not consenting to such proposition, Malcolm returned in high displeasure, and was not long before he shewed his resentment, by entering the borders with a powerful army, accompanied by Edward his son: they laid waste the county of Northumberland to the environs of Alnwick, and besieged the castle. The most authentic account of the tragical events of this siege, seems to be that given in the ancient Chronicle of Alnwick Abbey, of which a copy is preserved in the British Museum. Mowbray [*] Earl of Northumberland had collected a few troops to oppose the invader, and with them possessed this castle. It was too strong to be taken by assault, but a circumvallation being made by the Scotch forces, the garrison was cut off from hopes of succour, and was on the point of surrendering, when a person undertook its relief by the following stratagem: he rode forth compleatly armed, with the keys of the castle tied to the end of his spear, and presented himself in a suppliant manner before the King's pavilion, as being come to surrender the fortress. Malcolm advancing hastily without his armour, received a mortal wound from the spearman, who escaped by the fleetness of his horse, and by swimming the river, which was then flooded with rains. The Chronicle says his name was Hammond, and the place of his passage was for long after him named Hammond's Ford: but in Lel. Col. he is called Morkell, from the Book of the High Altar of Durham Cathedral.[†]

Prince Edward, Malcolm's eldest son, too incautiously advancing to revenge his father's death, fell into an ambuscade, and was slain.[‡] The garrison sallied forth, the Scotch were thrown into confusion by the loss of their leaders, and a panic succeeding, victory, stained with great bloodshed, declared for the English: notwithstanding the personal bravery of many illustrious Chieftains, and their utmost efforts to rally the disconcerted troops, they fled in the utmost cowardice before their conquerors, who were greatly inferior in numbers. The spot where King Malcolm was slain, was distinguished by a cross, which was lately repaired or rebuilt by the Duchess of Northumberland,[*] who was immediately descended from this unfortunate Monarch, by his daughter Queen Maud, wife of King Henry I. of England; whose lineal descendants were,

- 1. The Lady Mary Plantagenet, (daughter of Henry Earl of Lancaster, grandson of King Henry III.) married to Henry Percy, the third Lord of Alnwick.

- 2. The Lady Elizabeth Mortimer, (grand-daughter of Lionel Duke of Clarence, son of Edward III.) wife of Hotspur.

- 3. The Lady Eleanor Neville, (grand-daughter of John of Gaunt) wife of the second Earl of Northumberland.[†]

In the year 1135, King David I. of Scotland seized upon the castles of Northumberland, Alnwick being one, previous to the treaty entered into between him and King Stephen.

After King William of Scotland, sirnamed the Lion, made his disgraceful retreat from the castle of Prudhoe, A. D. 1174, he beset the castle of Alnwick with his whole army, consisting of 80,000 men: being repulsed for some time, he formed a blockade, and drew off many of his forces in plundering parties, to pillage the country; one of which, as Benedict of Peterborough says, commanded by Earl Duncan, entered the town of Warkworth, burnt it, and put all the inhabitants to the sword, without distinction of age or sex; and that he made his soldiers break open the church of St Lawrence in that place, in which, and in the house of the Minister, they flew above one hundred men, bedsies women and children. Bernard Baliol, a youth of great fortitude, with about 400 horsemen raised at Newcastle, engaged in an enterprize to surprize the Scotch Monarch: they were favoured in their march by a thick fog, which kept them concealed till they reached the environs of Alnwick, when discovering the King attended by about 60 of his chief followers on a reconnoitering party, they came upon them unexpectedly on Saturday the 5th day of July, whilst the principal parts of his vast army were scattered over the country in acts of rapine and violence, and the others laying in an idle and unsuspicious security before the castle, a conflict ensued, in which the King's horse was killed under him, and many of his attendants were slain, the King being made prisoner. The straggling parties were put to the route or taken, to a great amount in number, before they gained intelligence of the real force of their opponents: and the King of those robbers, after being confined some time in Richmond Castle, was removed to London, and afterwards ransomed for 100,000l. at the same time doing homage for his crown: as a memorial of which submission, he deposited his arms at the altar in York Minster.

In the reign of King John, A. D. 1212, Eustace de Vesey being accused of a conspiracy against the King's life, fled into Scotland. His castle was ordered to be rased; but the apprehension of a southern rebellion diverted the purpose.

Eustace with the northern Barons, A. D. 1216, at Felton did homage to Alexander II. King of Scotland, his brother-in-law, which so much incensed King John, that he poured forth into the north a large army, laid Felton in ashes, together with the towns of Mitford, Morpeth, Alnwick, Wark, and Roxburgh. Whilst John made these dreadful depredations in Northumberland, the Lord Eustace, with King Alexander, made an incursion as far as Barnardcastle, in the country of Durham, to which they laid siege; and being out on horseback, to take a view of the fortress, in order to plan an assault, making too near an approach, Eustace lost his life by an arrow shot from some of the out-posts.

What greatly contributed to prolong the intestine troubles of Henry the Third's kingdom in 1266, was the despair of the rebel Barons, by the forfeitures of their estates, under the determinations of the parliament of Winchester. John de Vesey was one of them, and having been deprived of his castle and barony of Alnwick, he entered into a combination with several others labouring under the same proscription, for the recovery of their possessions. Vesey raised a sufficient force to gain his castle, but Prince Edward coming against him with a strong body of forces, reduced his garrison to such distress, that he was obliged to surrender, and submit himself to the Prince's mercy; through whose intercession he received the royal pardon.

In 1264, this John de Vesey was summoned to parliament in the 28th year of King Henry the Third's reign. This was the glorious aera in which our mode of parliaments was first settled, and Commons regularly admitted to a share in the legislative power. He died in the 11th year of the reign of King Edward I. And in the 25th year of that reign, A. D. 1297, died William de Vesey, the last Baron of that family; who having no ligitimate issue, but leaving a son born out of wedlock, did, by the King's licence, enfeof Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham and titular Patriarch of Jerusalem, in the castle and Barony of Alnwick, in trust for such natural son; but this Right Reverend Guardian got the infant deprived of his barony, and as he acquired other royal favours, also obtained a confirmation from the King of a sale made thereof to Henry Lord Percy, Baron of Topcliff and Spofford, in Yorkshire, an ancestor of the present illustrious family.

Mr Grose says, but from what authority he is not pleased to point out, ‘that the appointment of the infant's Guardians, as also the very words of the deed of enfeofment (now extant) in which the conveyance is to the Bishop absolute and unconditional, confute a report too hastily taken up by some Historians, that this castle and barony were only given to the Bishop in trust for William the Bastard above mentioned; and that he was guilty of a violation of this trust in disposing of them otherwise.’ It would have been well if Mr Grose could have shewn where this deed was to be seen; as it would in some measure have exonerated the Bishop's memory of this infamous charge, and would have set Historians right for the future. Rymer (III. 184—18-9) authorizes the contrary determination. I do not remember an instrument of that antiquity, which contains an express trust; but where a trust was premised, it was merely confidential, or expressed in some separate deed. Trusts were introduced by the Lawmen to evade the statute of uses made in the reign of King Henry VIII. and from that period gained their legal acceptation.

The castle and barony of Alnwick continued in the Bishop's possession 12 years,[*] before he granted them to Lord Percy. The Bishop's deed bears date the 19th of Nov. 1309, and doth not indeed wear the countenance of an obscure transaction, for the witnesses to it were some of the greatest personages in the kingdom, viz. Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln, Robert de Umfreville Earl of Angus, Robert Lord Clifford, &c. the grant was afterwards confirmed by the King at Sheene, 23d Jan. 1310, to H. Percy and his sons; who Mr Grose says, ‘to remove every pretence of complaint, obtained a release of all right and title to the inheritance from the heir at law, Sir Gilbert de Aton, Knt. who was the nearest legitimate relation to the Lord William de Vesey above mentioned.’ I must confess Mr Grose's argument with me tends not to exculpate the Bishop, but to confirm the suspicion of his guilt. Such a ratification of title, in my apprehension, tells a consciousness of defects: had the bastard son confirmed, the doubt would have been taken away.
[†]

From the above period Alnwick Castle became the chief baronial seat in the north of the Percies, a family of great distinction in the southern parts of England from the time of the Conqueror. Immediately on this acquisition, the Lord Henry Percy began to repair this castle; and he and his successors perfected and compleated the citadel and its outworks. The two great octagan towers which were super-added to the 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page missing〉

- VI. Of Plantagenet—Mary daughter of Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancaster, and grandson of King Henry III. was wife of Henry, third Lord Percy of Alnwick, son to the founder of these towers, viz. Gules, three lions rampant, Or, charged with a label of five points.

- In the center are, the arms of the Sovereign, King Edward III. viz. France and England quarterly, France being then Semee de fleurs de Lis.

- VII. Of Warren—Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Warren and Surry, was wife of Henry Lord Percy, the founder's grandfather, viz. Chequered or & az.

- VIII. Of Arundel—Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Arundel, was the founder's mother, wife of Henry Percy, first Lord of Alnwick, viz. Gules, a lion rampant, or.

- IX. Of Umfreville—Margaret Percy, one of the founder's daughters, was then married to Robert, son and heir of Gilbert de Umfreville, Earl of Angus, viz. Azure, a cinque foil, or, between six croslets argent.

- X. Of Percy again—Isabel Percy, another of the daughters, was then unmarried. She was afterwards wife of William de Aton.

- XI. Of Neville—Maude Percy, the founder's eldest daughter, was wife of John Lord Neville of Raby, viz. Gules, a saltire argent.

- XII. Of Fitz Walter—Eleanor Percy, his second daughter, was married to John Lord Fitz Walter, viz. Or, a fess between two chevrons, gules.[*]

The last remarkable incident in history relative to this castle, was in the reign of King Edward IV. and happened after his great victory at Towton. One Peter de Brezè, a Frenchman, being under his Sovereign's displeasure, and in prison, was restored to liberty on condition of his entering into the service of the King of Sicily, the father of Margaret of Anjou, and conducting the troops raised for her service into England. Brezè landed on the Northumberland coast with about 500 men at arms: he possessed the castle of Alnwick, which was soon after besieged by Lord Hastings, Sir Ralph Gray, and Sir John Howard. The garrison was reduced to great distress, when George Douglas, Earl of Angus, influenced to this service by great promises from Margaret, advanced unexpectedly to the besiegers with 10,000 horsemen, and making such manoeuvres as induced the English army to apprehend he meant to attack them, whilst they were forming themselves in order of battle, he brought a strong party up to the postern gate, to whom the garrison made a sally, and being mounted on horses brought for that purpose, or behind the armed horsemen, the small garrison evacuated the fortress, being only 300 in number, and fled without bloodshed. It is believed the garrison, before they retired, endeavoured to destroy all the arms and ammunition they could not carry off: for a few years ago, on opening the principal well in the inner ward, which had been long filled up, the workmen found in it a great number of cannon balls of a large size, such as were chiefly used after the first invention of gunpowder.

Margaret, in the month of October following, making another effort, by the treachery of Sir Ralph Gray, the Governor, was again put in possession of Alnwick Castle: but King Edward soon approaching with a numerous army, and finding no forces in the field to oppose him, Margaret having again retired into Scotland, he laid siege to the three great fortresses of Alnwick, Dunstanborough, and Bambrough, at the same time. The troops which invested Alnwick, being 10,000 in number, were under the command of the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of Kent, the Lord Powis, the Baron of Graystock, and Lord Cromwell. Alnwick held out till the 6th of January; the French General Brezé having made an ineffectual effort to relieve it.

I must trespass upon the reader so far, as to introduce in this place a short account of the illustrious family of Percy.

This family is descended from Mainfred de Percy, who came into Normandy from Denmark, before the adventure of the famous Rollo, and had issue Geffrey, who took part with Rollo in his expedition into that province, of which he obtained the Sovereignty; being the first Duke of that country, and lineal ancestor to William Duke of Normandy and King of England. Glover the Somerset Herald in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, set forth this as an undoubted genealogy of the family.

Geffrey had issue William de Percy, Lord Percy and Earl of Kaws, Governor of Normandy; who had issue Geffrey de Percy, who married Mary daughter to the Earl of Forest; who had issue William de Percy, who had issue Geffrey, all born in Normandy.

The last Geffrey had issue two sons, William and Serlo, who came into England with William the Conqueror. [*]

William was a great favourite of this Prince, and by his bounty held large possessions in Hampshire, 32 lordships in Lincolnshire, and 86 lordships in Yorkshire; Topcliff, in the North Riding, and Spofford, in the West Riding, being his chief seats. He left a great patrimony in France to the Lord Monpensier.—Madox, in his Baronia Anglicana, says, that William the Conqueror granted to his favourite Percy a barony of 30 Knights fees.

This William de Percy was surnamed Le Gernon, or Algernon: he was possessed of the lordship of Whitby, with the large territory adjacent thereto, in the East Riding of the county of York, where he founded an Abbey [†] for Benedictine Monks, to the honour of God, St. Peter, and St. Hilda, in the time of King William Rufus, in the place where the monastery of Strenshale anciently stood (destroyed by Inguar and Hubba the Danes). Serlo the founder's brother, having assumed the habit of a Monk, was Abbot. William married Emma de Port, Lady of the honour of Semar, and had issue by her three sons, Allan, Walter, and William. At Sion-house, in an old roll, wrote in the reign of King Henry VIII. is a history of the family in verse, where it is said he was Admiral of the navy which brought over William the Conqueror, that he died beyond the seas, and his heart was brought over and interred at Whitby, in the chapter-house; where also Emma his Lady was buried, having survived her husband.

Allan de Percy, the eldest son, succeeded to the honours and estates of his father. He married Emma daughter of Gilbert de Gant, Lord of Humundbre, and son of Gilbert Earl of Lincoln, by whom he had five sons, William, Geffrey, Henry, Walter, and Allan. He had likewise one illegitimate son Allan, who was with the King of Scots, in the third of King Stephen, at the battle of Northallerton, called Bellum de Standardo.

William, [*] the eldest, married Alice the daughter of Robert Lord Ross, and had issue four sons, Allan, William, Richard, and Robert. Allan dying without issue, William succeeded to the estate and honours of his ancestors.

This William, [*] in the 34th year of King Henry I. A. D. 1133, founded the Abbey of Hampoll for Cistertian Monks; and also that of Sallay, in Craven, in the 12th year of King Stephen, A. D. 1147. He was one of the northern Barons who distinguished themselves at the battle of Northallerton against the Scots. In the 12th year of King Henry II. on levying the aids on the marriage of the King's daughter, he certified his Knights fees to be 28 de veteri feoffamento, and 8, a third and sixth parts de novo feoffamento. He made a journey to Jerusalem, and departed this life at Mount-Joy, in the Holy Land. He married Adelidis de Tunebrigge, by whom he had issue four sons, Walter, Allan, Richard, and William, and two daughters, Maud and Agnes. All the sons died without issue. William was a Monk, and Abbot of Whitby. Maud married William Earl of Warwick, and Agnes, Joceline de Lovaine, son to Godfrey Duke of Brabant, and brother to Adelidis Queen of England, wife of King Henry I. Maud died without issue, on whose demise Agnes her sister became sole heiress of all the large possessions of her ancestors. Before her marriage with Joceline, a covenant was made, that he should either bear the arms of the Lords Percy (five fusils in fess Or) and renounce his own, or continue his own arms, and take the name of Percy to him and his issue by her. Under her picture in the pedigree at Sion-house are these lines:

Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name

By me survives, unto his lasting fame;

Brabant's Duke's son I wed, and for my sake

Retain'd his arms and Percy's name did take.

There was issue of this marriage four sons, Richard, Henry, Robert (Lord Sutton upon Derwent) and Joceline. In the before-mentioned roll are these lines:

And at Petworth is beryed this noble Lord,

Lady Agnes his wife, at Whitby, books record.

Joceline de Louvaine's pedigree was from the Kings of France of the race of Charlemain, son of a Prince of the Medes.

Richard, the eldest son, was one of the chief of those Barons in arms against King John, in the 17th year of that reign, and also one of the 25 who took an oath to compel the King to observe the particular articles granted by the great Charter and Charter of the Forests: and he was excommunicated by the Pope, for his being a partizan with the insurgents. He was one of the Barons who called over Lewis, the son of the French King, to receive the Crown of England, and in association with Robert de Ros and Peter de Brus, subdued all Yorkshire to the obedience of Lewis. He made his peace with King Henry III. and was in arms for him against the Welch, in the second year of that reign. He died without issue, as did also Robert and Joceline.

Henry [*] succeeded as heir of his brother: he married Isabel daughter of Adam, and sister of Peter de Brus, of Skelton. He had in dowry the manor of Lekenfield, for which he rendered the following remarkable service: he and his heirs were to resort to Skelton Castle every Christmas-day, and lead the Lady of that castle from her chamber to the chapel at mass, and from thence to her chamber again; and after dinner to depart. He was buried at Whitby, and left issue two sons, William and Henry.

William [*] being seized of the estates of his father, paid 100 marks fine in the 26th year of the reign of King Henry III. to exempt him of attendance on the King into Gascoine. He had two wives; by the first, Elan daughter of William Lord Bardolph, he had seven sons; by Joan his second wife, who was the daughter of William de Brewer, he had no issue that survived him.

Henry, [†] his eldest son, succeeded his father in the honours and chief possessions of the family. He married Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Warren and Surry. We find him in several services in the reign of King Henry III. against the Welch and Scotch, and for some short time in association with the rebellious Barons, but restored soon after to royal favour. He had issue three sons, William, John, and Henry. William and John died without issue, and the honours and estates devolved upon

Henry, [‡] whose wardship, 22d King Edward I. was granted to Edmund the King's brother. In the 24th year of that reign, he was knighted by the Sovereign before Berwick; after which he was in the battle of Dunbar, where the English obtained a signal victory. He was in many distinguished services in the succeeding years of that reign: he was one of the great Barons who signed that memorable declaration to Pope Boniface, ‘That their King was not to answer in judgment, for any rights of the Crown of England, before any tribunal under heaven, &c. and that by the help of God they would resolutely and with all their force maintain against all men.’ In the 34th year of that reign he was sent into Scotland, accompanied by Lord Clifford and the Earl of Pembroke, to oppose Robert de Brus, then lately crowned King, and at Methfeu they obtained a compleat victory. They were besieged at Kentier by the Scotch forces, where they defended themselves gallantly till relieved by troops sent by the King from Lenercost. This Lord Percy purchased the barony of Alnwick, as before mentioned. In the 5th year of King Henry II. he was Governor of the castles of Scarbrough and Bambrough; and in the same year the King granted him the custody of the manor of Temple Weneby, in the county of York, belonging to the Knights Templars, who were charged by Pope Clement with being guilty of apostacy, idolatry, sodomy, and heresy. The Pope's bull alledges, ‘that when a brother is admitted, he denies Christ and he treads on the cross.’ This Lord Percy appears to be of the list of factious Barons, who besieged Piers de Gaviston, Earl of Cornwall, in Scarbrough Castle, on account of the royal partiality shewn to this unhappy favourite: Gaviston had surrendered himself to his protection, but it did not prevent his death. A royal mandate issued for the confiscation of all Lord Percy's estates and effects; but in the 7th year of that reign, he had restitution and a pardon from the King: after which he was in the royal army at the battle of Bannocksburn, when the English sustained a shameful defeat.[*] On the death of Robert Lord Clifford, during the minority of his heir, he had the custody of the castles of Skipton in Craven, Appleby, Brougham, and Pendragon, in Westmoreland and Cumberland. He died in the 8th year of King Edward II. and was buried in the abbey of Fountains, before the high altar. By Eleanor his wife, daughter of John Fitz Allan, he had issue two sons, Henry and William.

Henry [†] was 16 years of age on the decease of his father. On the 10th of September, 16 King Edward II. he was made a Knight at York, having the year before been appointed Governor of Scarbrough and Pickering. In the 19th year of King Edward II. on the landing of Queen Isabel and Prince Edward in England, he was one of the Nobles that joined with them for reforming the abuses of government, occasioned by the influence of the Spencers. The accession of the forces headed by Lord Percy, greatly augmented the army at Gloucester, and was singularly instrumental in the great changes then effected. He was one of the 12 Lords appointed the young King's Council, was principal Commissioner for settling the Peace with Scotland, and was made Warden of the Marches. He was the first of the Percys who possessed the castle of Warkworth, which after the death of Sir John Clavering, without issue male, was settled to devolve to the King and his heirs; and which Henry Lord Percy received by grant from the Crown, in lieu of an annual salary of 500 marks paid to him for certain stipulated services. In the 4th of King Edward III. he was Ambassador to France. In the 5th year of the same reign, he was made one of the Conservators of the Peace for the counties of Cumberland and Northumberland; and in the succeeding year he was appointed Warden of the Marches, and Conservator of the Peace for the counties of Northumberland, York, Lancaster, Cumberland, and Westmoreland. He was with King Edward III. at the siege of Berwick, and at the memorable battle of Hallidown-hill. He was in much foreign service in this reign, as well as being engaged in the wars with Scotland: he signalized himself at the siege of Nantz, and after his return to England, had the chief command at the battle of Nevil's Cross, near Durham, where King David was made prisoner, and his powerful army vanquished. After living a life of action and honour, he died on the 26th of February, in the 26th year of King Edward III. and was buried in the priory of Alnwick. By Idonea his wife, daughter of Robert Lord Clifford, he had issue four sons, Henry his eldest thirty years of age at the decease of his father, Thomas Bishop of Norwich, William, and Roger, and also four daughters.

Henry [*] was in the great expedition to France, on which succeeded the famous battle of Cressy. He was one of the leaders of the first wing of the English army at the battle of Nevil's Cross. On Oct. 5th, 28 King Edward III. A. D. 1354, he was commissioned to receive from Sir John de Coupland, Sheriff of Northumberland, the body of David de Bruce, King of Scotland, and set him at liberty, according to the treaty for his ransom. He was present with King Edward III. when John Baliol resigned his Crown at Roxburgh. In the 33d year of the same reign, he was Constable of the Castle of Berwick; and in the same year attended the King to France, and was a witness to the treaty of Chartres. He was several times in the commission of Conservators of the Marches. He had two wives; he first married the Lady Mary Plantagenet, daughter to Henry Earl of Lancaster, son of Edmund Earl of Lancaster, Leicester, Derby, &c. second son of King Henry III. Edmund married Blanch daughter of Robert Earl of Artois (brother of St. Lewis King of France) and widow of Henry de Champaigne King of Navar. Lady Mary was sister to Henry Plantagenet, who was created Duke of Lancaster in the 27th of King Edward III. whose daughter and heir was wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, father to King Henry IV. By this marriage Lord Percy had issue two sons, Henry and Thomas. [*] By his second wife, Joan the daughter and heiress of John de Oreby, he had one Child, Maud, who married John Lord Ross. Lord Percy departed this life on Ascension-day, in the 42d year of King Edward III. he was succeeded by his eldest son,

Henry, [*] who during his father's life was engaged in several expeditions into France: but what chiefly renders his memory amiable to this age, is, that he was a great favourer and supporter of the reformer Wickliffe, by which his life was in imminent peril. He was appointed Lord Marshal of England, which office he retained at the coronation of King Richard II. when he was created (16 July, 1377) Earl of Northumberland. Soon afterwards he grievously revenged the slaughter made by the Earl of Dunbar at Roxburgh; having levied an army of 10,000 men, he ravaged the territories of that Earl for three successive days, burning and slaying conformable to the savage customs of the age. Under the influence of the Duke of Lancaster, who had expressed an inveterate hatred to him, he was accused of neglect of duty, wherein the Scots had surprized Berwick, and judgment of death and loss of estate was pronounced against him: but this severe sentence was remitted by the King, and he soon recovered that fortress. The Earl of Northumberland having suffered many unmerited indignities from the King, entered into an association for his deposition: messengers were accordingly sent to Henry Duke of Lancaster, son of John of Gaunt, who was then in France, to invite him over; and he taking advantage of Richard's being in Ireland, with a few attendants, landed in the month of July, 1399, in Holdernesse, Yorkshire, where he was received by the Earl of Northumberland, Sir Henry Percy his son, the Earl of Westmoreland, and many other persons of great power, with a considerable body of men, which in a few days was augmented to 60,000. The succeeding event is so notorious, that it requires no place here. The Earl of Northumberland was appointed Envoy to Richard, by whose argument he was persuaded to resign a royalty of which nothing remained but the name, the defection being so general, that he had not one adherent left. A parliament was called to meet on the feast of St. Michael, when Richard was solemnly deposed, and Duke Henry having heard read the articles of royal charge by the Archbishop, the same were signed by him with the sign of the cross; and the Earl of Northumberland being High Constable of England, taking the ring with which the Kings were wedded to the realm, shewed it to the whole assembly, and then put it on the Duke's finger; after which the Duke kissed the Earl, as he had before done the Archbishop, and immediately he was proclaimed King, by the name of Henry IV. The Earl received appointment of the high office of Constable of England for life, with a grant of the Isle of Man, and many other great dignities and eminent employments. In the third year of King Henry IV. the Scots having invaded England, the Earl gave them a dreadful overthrow at Homeldon hill, where the Earl of Douglas was taken prisoner. Some dissentions quickly ensued between the Earl and his Sovereign; the blood of Percys could not brook an indignity from one chiefly by them raised to the throne; they levied a powerful army, and under Henry Hotspur and Earl Douglas their leaders, gave the royalists battle near Shrewsbury, [*] in which the event for long was dubious, and victory seemed to change from party to party several times, till at length King Henry was supported by the coming up of his corps de reserve, and gained a compleat victory, Henry Hotspur being among the slain.[†] The Earl of Northumberland, then indisposed, was not come up with his reinforcements before the battle; on receiving intelligence of the ill success of his party, he retreated to his castle of Warkworth; from whence being summoned by the King, he surrendered himself, and obtained royal clemency for life, but was divested of his estates and kept prisoner till the commotions subsided, when he received restitution of honours and lands, the Isle of Man excepted. This restoration was attended with a great solemnity, in the presence of the assembled estates of the kingdom. The Commons gave thanks to the King in full parliament for the favour shewn to the Earl of Northumberland. The same day, at their request, the King commanded the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland, in token of perfect amity, to kiss each other in open parliament, and to take each other by the hand thrice; which they did. The same ceremony passed between the Earls of Northumberland and Dunbar, on the 22d February then following. But the death of Hotspur, and the neglect shewn the Earl of Northumberland from the Crown, enraged him so much, that in the succeeding year he openly joined the northern malcontents, and again took up arms against the King. The royal army soon appeared in the north, seized the Earl's castles of Alnwick and Warkworth, and drove the party to seek refuge in Scotland. A scheme was projected to surrender up this turbulent Earl, but he gaining intelligence of the design, escaped, and afterwards levied a sufficient force to enter England, and recover his castles: these prosperous circumstances were soon succeeded by a total overthrow at the battle of Bramham Moor, on the 2d of March, 8th King Henry IV. A. D. 1403, in which the Earl was slain. His head was cut off, then white with age, and being sent to London, was fixed on a poll on the bridge: his quarters were placed on the gates of London, Lincoln, Berwick, and Newcastle; but in the month of May following they were taken down, and delivered up to his friends to be buried. The Earl of Northumberland had two wives; he first married Margaret daughter to Ralph Lord Nevil, sister to the first Earl of Westmoreland; by her he had issue three sons, Henry named Hotspur, Thomas, [*] and Ralph. [†] To his second wife he married Matilda the widow of Sir Gilbert Umfrevill, Earl of Angus, daughter of Thomas Lord Lucy, and sister and heir to Anthony Lord Lucy, who out of her great affection settled upon his Lordship, and his heirs, all her honours and lands, the baronies of Cockermouth and Egremont in Cumberland, and the baronies of Langley and Prudhoe in this county, on condition of quartering the arms of the Lucies with his own. By her the Earl had no issue.

Henry Hotspur, Lord Percy, shewed in his early youth a martial disposition. At the coronation of King Richard II. when his father was created Earl, he received the order of Knighthood. In the ninth year of that reign he was made Governor of Berwick, and Warden of the Marches towards Scotland; in which office he was so active, that the Scotch gave him the title of Hotspur. In the same year he was sent to Calais, where he testified his valour. In the 11th year of the same reign he was elected Knight of the Garter: but being envied at court for the military fame he had acquired, his adversaries who had gained the Sovereign's ear, prevailed to get him an appointment at sea to repel the French, who threatened an invasion: in which he acquitted himself with great honour. In the same year the Scotch entering the East Marches, he encountred them near Newcastle, slew the Earl Douglas with his own hands, and mortally wounded the Earl of Murres: but pressing over forward, was taken prisoner by the Earl of Dunbar, together with his brother Ralph, and both were carried into Scotland. He bore many honourable commissions in this reign; and in the succeeding one being an attendant on his father when the crown was placed on the head of Henry IV. among other marks of royal favour, he was made Sheriff of Northumberland, Governor of Berwick and Roxburgh, and Justice of Chester, North Wales, and Flintshire; also had a grant of the castle and lordship of Bambrough for life, and of the whole county and dominion of Anglesey. He was in the battle of Hailidon-hill, and to his valour and his archers, that great victory was chiefly attributed. He married Elizabeth the eldest daughter of Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, by Phillippi his wife, only daughter and heir of Lionel Duke of Clarence, second surviving son of King Edward III. by whom he had issue one son, Henry, and one daughter, who married John Lord Clifford, and surviving him, to her second husband married Ralph Nevill, second Earl of Westmoreland.

Henry [*] his son being carried into Scotland by his grandfather when an infant of tender years, after the death of his father, in order to protect him against the resentment of King Henry, Robert King of Scotland intending to send his son James out of the kingdom, for fear of his coming to an untimely end by means of Walter Duke of Albany his uncle, Henry was his attendant and companion; and leaving Bas Castle in stormy weather, they were drove on Flambrough-head, where going on shore to refresh themselves, and being known, were taken prisoners, and carried to the King at Windsor. This event proved fortunate for our young Lord, he thereby having a means of winning the friendship of Henry V. who restored him to the title and possessions of his ancestors.[†] In the 4th year of King Henry V. he sat in the parliament holden at Westminster Oct. 19, as Earl of Northumberland, and the same year was constituted General Warden of the Marches of Scotland. He attended the King in his French campaigns, and during this reign held many distinguished offices. He received the order of Knighthood along with King Henry VI. and many accompanying Peers, from the hand of the Duke of Bedford, then Regent. In the 14th year of King Henry VI. he made an unsuccessful irruption into Scotland, and at Piperden was defeated by the Earl of Angus, with the loss of 1500 men. In the 29th year of the same reign, he again entered Scotland, and engaged, near the river Sare, a large body of Scotch under the command of Sir William Wallace of Craigy, where he again had a defeat, and narrowly escaped being prisoner; his son choosing to throw himself into the hands of the enemy to save his father. This Earl added to the works of Alnwick Castle, and fortified the Town with a stone wall of considerable strength, with four gates and square towers.

In the great carnage at the battle of St. Albans, 23d May, 1455, the Earl was among the slain, having supported the King with all his power. He was interred in the chapel of the blessed Virgin in the abbey of St. Albans. He married Eleanor daughter of Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and had by her nine sons, Henry, John, [*] Thomas, [†] Ralph, [‡] John, Henry, [§] William, ‖ Richard, [**] and George, [††] and two daughters, Catharine and Ann, [‡‡] He was succeeded by his eldest son,

Henry, [§§] who was thirty years of age when he succeeded to the title. In the 4th year of the reign of King Henry VI. he was knighted: the Duke of Bedford first knighted the King, and then the King in like manner conferred the same honour on several of the sons of Earls, among whom was this Henry Lord Percy, then about two years of age, and the King not five years old; he having succeeded to the throne before he had compleated the ninth month of his age. In the 20th of the same reign, he was retained Governor of the town and castle of Berwick, with the East Marches of Scotland. He married Eleanor the daughter and heiress of Robert Lord Poinings, (who was slain at the siege of Orleans) and in the 25th year of that reign had livery of the possessions of that family. In the 27th year of the same reign, he was summoned to parliament by the title of Lord Poinings; and in the 33d year of King Henry VI. he succeeded to the honours of the Earldom of Northumberland. In the 38th of that reign, he was constituted Justice of all the Forests north of Trent. He was with Queen Margaret in the north, when the King was taken prisoner at the battle of Northampton. She, supported by the Earl, having collected 18,000 men, marched southward to attempt relieving the King, and encountred the Duke of York near Wakefield, in Yorkshire, on the last day of December; in which battle the Duke was slain, and his army vanquished, 2800 being left dead upon the field. From thence the victorious Queen marched southward, and on Shrove Tuesday, at St. Albans, obtained a victory over the forces under the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Warwick, and others who were left to govern the King. By this event he regained his liberty; but finding great levies drawing forwards from all quarters in support of Edward, the King with his party prudently retreated to the north. Edward having been proclaimed King by his partizans, by the name of King Edward IV. left London on the 12th of March, leading forth a powerful army to pursue the unfortunate Henry in his retreat, and by easy marches arrived at Pomfret, where he rested the troops for some time, appointing the Lord Fitz Walter to keep the pass of Ferrybridge. The Earl of Northumberland, desirous of revenging the death of those whom he dearly loved, was well prepared to receive his enemies; and leaving King Henry with his Queen and son in the city of York, for their greater safety, it was resolved that Ferrybridge at all hazards should be recovered, and the enterprize was committed to the Lord Clifford; who with a competent number of light horsemen departing early from the army on the morning preceding Palm Sunday, made such expedition that he surprized the guard, which he put to the sword, and gained the bridge. The Lord Fitz Walter hearing the noise, rose out of his bed, as did the bastard brother of the Earl of Warwick, presuming there was a mutiny among the soldiers, but soon fell victims to the arms of Clifford. On this Edward thinking loss of time might endanger the rest of his forces, resolved to try his fate, by the immediate issue of a battle. Finding the pass of Ferrybridge too well maintained to be attempted, he ordered the van-guard of his army to ford the river three miles above, as Castleford; and attacking the Lord Clifford near Towton, as he was retreating to the main army, surrounded his party, who defended themselves with great bravery till his Lordship was slain, being shot with an arrow through the throat.

Next day being Palm Sunday, 29th of March, both armies were within sight of each other between Saxton and Towton; King Henry's forces being computed at 60,000, and King Edward's at 48,660. Our Historians have given a particular account of this battle, which lasted three days, and in which were slain on both sides 36,776 persons, all English; whereof the Chiefs were the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland. The Earl of Northumberland commanded the van-guard, the snow blowing in the faces of his troops, so that they could not see how to direct their arrows, he led them on to charge sword in hand: a bloody conflict continued for ten hours, in doubtful victory, in which the Earl was killed, but how or by whom is not known. In the succeeding parliament he was attainted, and the earldom of Northumberland was conferred on John Nevill, Lord Montacute, brother to Richard Nevill, Earl of Warwick, by patent dated 28th May, 4th King Edward IV. Henry Earl of Northumberland left a son,

Henry [*] being in his minority when his father was slain, was committed to the tower of London, till the 27th of October, A. D. 1469, 9th King Edward IV. when he was brought before the King at Westminster and took the oath of allegiance, whereupon he was set at liberty, and soon after restored to the estates and dignities of his ancestors: he was made Warden of the Middle Marches before his restoration in blood and inheritance, and afterwards bore many honourable commissions from the crown: he had the chief command of the army in the 22d year of the reign of King Edward IV. which besieged and took Berwick: in the battle of Bosworthfield, in the third year of King Richard III. he is charged (by Hall and Buck) as acting a treacherous part to a sovereign from whom he had received considerable marks of confidence and esteem, by withdrawing his troops, or otherwise standing an idle spectator of the dreadful conflict of that day. It is certain he was immediately received to the favour of King Henry VII. In the fourth year of that reign, being Lieutenant of Yorkshire, he was murdered by the populace at Coxlodge near Thirsk, 28th April, 1489, on enforcing the tax for carrying on the war in Britany. He married Maud daughter to William Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke of that name, by whom he had issue four sons and three daughters. He and his lady were buried at Beverley. On the 15th of September, 1678, this lady's monument was opened[*], (but on what occasion my author doth not say) when the body was found in a stone coffin, embalmed and covered with cloth of gold, and on her feet slippers embroided with silk and gold, by her side a wax lamp, and a plate candlestick with a candle.

Henry the eldest son, fifth Earl of Northumberland, in the 12th year of King Henry VII. was one of the chief commanders of the King's army in the battle of Blackheath.

The magnificence of this Earl is mentioned on the marriage of Margaret with the King of Scots, when in splendour he exceeded all the nobility present. Hall says he outdid them ‘for the richness of his coat, being goldsmiths work garnished with pearle and stones; and for the costly apparel of his henxmen, and gallant trappers of their horses; besides 400 tall men well horsed, and apparel'd in his collars: he was esteemed both of the Scots and Englishmen, more like a prince than a subject.’ He had also with him his officer of arms, named Northumberland, arrayed in a livery of velvet, bearing his armorial ensignia.

On the accession of Henry VIII. he was continued in the office of Warden of the Marches, which he had filled in the preceding reign. He served in the French campaign, and was present at the battle of Spurs. In the 14th of King Henry VIII. he was made Warden of the whole Marches, which office he executed for a very short time; at his own instance giving place to the Earl of Surry. He died in the 18th of King Henry VIII. and was buried at Beverley. He married Catharine daughter and coheiress of Sir Robert Spencer, by Eleanor daughter and at length heiress of Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, by Eleanor his wife daughter and heir of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who was great grandson of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. The Earl had issue three sons, Henry, Thomas [*], and Ingeham [†], and two daughters, Margaret [‡] and Maud. [§]

It may be agreeable to the reader in this place, to find an account of the Earl's houshold, as it points out the fashion of the age, as well as the magnificence of the family.

‘Gentlemen who wait before noon, 6; yeomen and grooms of the chamber who wait before noon, 10; yeomen officers, 4; and groom officers, 4; servants to wait in the great chamber, in the morning daily throughout the week, from six to ten of the clock, 20; gentlemen to wait in the afternoon, 7; yeomen of the chamber, yeomen waiters, and grooms of the chamber to wait in the afternoon daily, 7; yeomen of houshold and groom officers of houshold, which shall not attend after supper, 8; yeomen officers and groom officers of houshold to wait in the afternoon, 4; gentlemen to wait after supper, 13; yeomen waiters and grooms of the chamber to wait after supper, 17; chaplains and priests in houshold, 11; gentlemen and children of my Lord's chapel, attending in exercising of God's service in the chapel daily at matins, lady mass, high mass, and even song, 17; yeomen officers, groom officers, and grooms in houshold, not appointed to attend because of others their business, which they attend daily in their offices in my Lord's house, 27; an armourer; a groom of the chamber to Lord Percy, to wait hourly in his chamber; a groom for brushing and dressing his cloaths; a groom of the chamber to his Lordship's two younger sons; a groom of the styrrup; a groom sumpter man, to dress the sumpter horses and my Lady's palfreys; a groom to dress my Lord's hobbeys and nags; a groom of the stable; a groom to keep my Lord's hounds; a groom miller for grinding corn for baking and brewing; a groom porter for keeping the gates; a groom for driving his Lordship's chariot, and a keeper of the said chariot horses; clerks in my Lord's house, not appointed daily to attend, because of making their books, which they are charged with to write hourly upon, 7; servants belonging to gentlemen in his Lordship's house, 10; servants and gentlemen servants not appointed to wait because of other their business, which they attend on daily for his Lordship, 44: in all 229.’ [*]

The sixth Earl Henry was deeply in love with the fair Anne Bullen, but by the art of Cardinal Woolsey, and even the royal interposition, was withdrawn from an attachment, which it is said gave great anxiety to the Sovereign. Notwithstanding the Earl's early affection for the Cardinal, in 1530, he was one of the King's Commissioners to arrest him for high treason. He was Warden of the East and Middle Marches, and one of the Knights of the Garter. He married Mary daughter of George Earl of Shrewsbury, and died without issue.

As his brother Thomas had been attainted, the earldom of Northumberland for some time remained dormant: Queen Mary restored Thomas the nephew to the honours and estates of his ancestors, the patent setting forth that the same was done ‘in consideration of his noble descent, constancy of virtues, valour in deeds of arms, and other shining qualifications.’ The ceremony of his creation at Whitehall was attended with great pomp: the procession was preceded by 8 heralds and 12 trumpeters: he was accompanied by the Earls of Pembroke, Arundel, and Rutland, and the Lord Montague, walking in the middle, dressed in robes of crimson velvet, a hat of crimson velvet, and a coronet of gold. He was joined with Lord Wharton as Wardens General of the Marches, with very extensive powers, A. D. 1557. He commanded against the Scots who made an incursion the same year, and giving them battle near Cheviot, obtained a compleat victory: Sir John Forster was shot through the mouth, and had his horse killed under him. Sir Andrew Kerr, the Scotch leader, was taken prisoner. He with his brother Henry having entered Scotland in the following year, obtained a victory over the Scotch near Swinton; and the same year engaged the French auxiliaries with equal success, near Grindon. In jealousy of Lord Cecil's power with Queen Elizabeth, he entered into the northern conspiracy, and at length appeared in open rebellion. It would be inconsistent with my plan, in this place to speak upon that matter; it will suffice to add, that the Earl having fled into Scotland, was betrayed and delivered up, and in the 13th year of Queen Elizabeth, he and his Countess were convicted of high treason and outlawed; and on the 22d of August, 1572, he was beheaded at York, avowing with his last breath the Pope's supremacy, affirming the realm to be in a schism, and the subjects who were obedient to the Queen, no better than heretics.[*] He married Ann daughter of Henry Somerset, Earl of Worcester, by whom he had one son and five daughters: the son died without issue.

The patent of restoration made by Queen Mary having limited the titles and estates to the late Earl's heirs male, and in default of such issue, to Henry Percy, the Earl's brother, in the 18th of Queen Elizabeth, he was summoned to parliament by the distinction of Earl of Northumberland and Baron Percy.

On his brother's defection, he stood loyal to the Queen, and with Sir John Forster, commanded the troops which on the 9th of December, in the 12th of Queen Elizabeth, routed the Earl of Westmoreland's forces in the bishopric of Durham. In the 27th year of Queen Elizabeth, being suspected of plotting to set at liberty the Queen of Scots, he was committed prisoner to the Tower; and on the 21st of June, was found dead in his bed, having three shots from a pistol lodged under his left pap, his chamber door being fastened on the inside. He married Catharine eldest daughter and coheiress of John Nevill, Lord Latimer, by whom he had issue eight sons and three daughters. Henry his eldest son succeeded him, the ninth Earl of Northumberland.

He was one of those volunteer Lords who hired vessels to accompany Charles Lord Howard, Lord High Admiral, against the Spanish Armada. Being suspected as an accomplice in the Gunpowder Plot, he suffered a long and grievous confinement in the Tower;[†] his sentence being an imprisonment for life, and a fine of 30,000l. though he was convicted in the Star Chamber for misprision of treason only. In 1614, he paid his fine, but he did not gain his liberty till the 18th of July, 1621, having been confined 15 years.

In the 4th year of King Charles I. he obtained a confirmation to him and the heirs male of his body, of the title and dignity of Baron Percy, in as ample a manner as his ancestors had enjoyed the same. He died at his seat at Petworth, on the 5th of November, 1632. He married Dorothy daughter of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, by whom he had issue four sons and two daughters. His two eldest sons dying in infancy, he was succeeded in title and estates by his third son, Algernon. [*]

Algernon the 10th Earl of Northumberland was about 30 years of age when he succeeded to the honours of his ancestors. Lord Clarendon says, ‘that the King took him into his immediate and eminent care, and prosecuted him with all manner and demonstration of respect and kindness; and (as he heard his Majesty himself say) courted him as his mistress, and conversed with him as his friend, without the least interruption or intermission of any possible favour and kindness.’ On the 13th May, 11 King Charles I. he was installed one of the Knights of the Garter. He was made Lord High Admiral, for his services against the Dutch in 1636. He bore the following titles: ‘Lord of the honours of Cockermouth and Petworth, Lord Percy, Lucy, Poinings, Fitz-Aine, Bryan, and Latimer, Knight of the Garter, Lord High Admiral of England, Ireland, and Wales, and of the dominions and isles of the same; of the town of Cales and Marches of the same; of Normandy, Gascony, and Aquitaine; Lord General of the navy and seas of the said kingdoms of England and Ireland; one of the Lords of his Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council; Lord Lieutenant of Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, and Captain General of the army to act against the Scots. ’ He attended King Charles I. into Scotland, on his coronation. In the 11th year of that reign, he was installed one of the Knights of the Garter; and in the 13th year he was made Lord High Admiral of England. In the 15th, he was made Captain General of the army. In 1639, his Lordship was at the head of state affairs. In a letter to the Earl of Leicester, he thus expressed his sentiments of public matters: ‘It grieves my soul to be involved in these councils; and the sense I have of the miseries that are like to ensue, is held by some a disaffection in me; but I regard little what those persons say.’ In 1643, he with the Earls of Pembroke and Salisbury, with several Members of the House of Commons, were indicted of high treason at Salisbury, before Judges Heath, Forster, and Glanvill, for assisting the parliament; but they could not induce the jury to find the bill. On the 17th of May, 1645, by order of the Lords, the Earl and his Countess were directed to take care of the King's children. His Lordship, though acting under many commissions of parliament, detested the cruel murder of his Majesty, and did his utmost to obstruct it."[*] After which he retired from public business, living at his seat at Petworth, waiting for a favourable opportunity to restore King Charles II. in which he took an active part. He was twice married; by Anne daughter of William Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, his first wife, he had five daughters. By Elizabeth daughter to Theophilus Earl of Suffolk, he had issue, Josceline his only son and successor. He died the 13th October, 1688, and was interred at Petworth.

Josceline the eleventh Earl of Northumberland married the Lady Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Earl of Southampton, Lord High Treasurer of England. He was made Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the county of Sussex, and Lord Lieutenant of the county of Northumberland. On the 21st May, 1670, he died at Turin, was brought to England, and interred at Petworth. He had issue an only son, Henry, who died in infancy, and two daughters, Elizabeth and Henrietta, the latter of which died at four years of age.

The Lady Elizabeth had three husbands; the first, Henry Cavendish, Earl of Ogle, son and heir to the Duke of Newcastle. Her second husband was Thomas Thynne, Esq And her third, his Grace Charles Duke of Somerset. By the latter her Ladyship had issue, Algernon Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset, and by creation Earl of Northumberland, who left an only daughter and heir, the late Duchess of Northumberland.

In this present illustrious family, live all the heroic virtues of their ancestors. I must give a place to the following oration, spoken at Guildhall, Westminster, by the Reverend Mr Bennet, on Tuesday July the 30th, 1776, on placing the picture of Earl Percy in the council chamber of that hall.

Gentlemen,

Notwithstanding your worthy Chairman has so fully expatiated. on the cause of this chearful and respectable meeting, I feel myself animated, not less from inclination than duty, to offer a few words with your permission, on the present occasion.

‘Public virtues and singular acts of greatness, have ever kindled in the mind of man, an ardent desire of beholding the persons, or representations of those in whom they shone: hence examples of great and generous actions, have been continually handed down to posterity for their imitation, and incitement to glory:—hence Caesar—hence Cato live; and their virtues remain unsullied by the grave, amidst the rust of time.’

‘Rome had its heroes—Britain boasts of hers; and when Percy is no more, that picture shall record his deeds.’

‘At a time when the supreme legislative authority of parliament over the whole British empire was called in question; at a time when discord, disobedience, nay rebellion itself prevailed in America;—at a time when dissipation and every species of luxury pervaded this great nation, and its direful influence was visibly increasing;—Earl Percy, disdaining every consideration that was unconnected with the common weal, boldly stood forth a champion for his country, a friend to his King, and enemy to those who had fallen from their duty.’

‘It was not wealth, gentlemen, that could urge him to so dangerous an undertaking—Fortune had placed him above the pursuit of it:— it could not be ambition, for rank and titles were already his own; —but it was public spirit that called him forth;—for he had all to lose, but nothing to gain;—nothing but the true interest of his country to acquire. He gave up his own safety, he made a sacrifice of every thing;—pleasures, profit, and interest—all were subservient to the common good.’

‘Without flattery, gentlemen, I may assert Rome would have gloried in such a real Patriot; Rome would have rejoiced to have seen one of their Nobility so strenuous in their country's cause.’

‘But this was not all; and what I have said would bear but little resemblance to that great man, were I not to take notice of his unbounded humanity as well as public spirit.’

‘His tenderness in a time of the greatest calamity; his readiness in sharing whatever his ample fortune afforded him with the common soldier, the widow, and the orphan, has raised his name almost above the reach of praise.’

‘Great as his own distress was, he overlooked it, in commiserating and relieving that of others: indeed every humane and generous feature of the noble Duke his father, are clearly seen in the actions of the son.’

‘But it is not to be wondered at, gentlemen, that humanity, generosity, and magnificence, should shine forth with so much lustre in the noble Earl, when they are the acknowledged characteristics of the House of Northumberland. ’

The town of Alnwick [*] is irregular, being built on the declivities of a hill, in various directions: the buildings are chiefly modern, and some of them approach to elegance. It is the county town of Northumberland, and an unrepresented borough, governed by a Bailiff (nominated by his Grace; his authority derived from the obsolete office of Constable of the Castle) and four Chamberlains, chosen annually out of the freemen of the town. The freedom of this borough was one of King John's institutions, who in a ridiculous humour ordained, that it should be obtained by passing through a deep and miry pond, on the Town Moor,[*] upon St. Mark's day; which still to render more ludicrous, the candidate is to perform in white cloathing; and sometimes it is effected with the utmost peril. What immunities or privileges are gained by this unhappy mode of accession, I never could learn: the trade of Alnwick, with every advantage of exclusive exercise, is insignificant, and the appendages of the borough are of no great moment.[*] The town was walled round by Henry Lord Percy, in the reign of King Henry VI. having four gates guarded by square towers; three of which still remain, Bondgate used for a prison, Clayport for a poor-house, and Pottergate dismantled and falling to decay. This borough holds a weekly market on Saturday, and four annual fairs, on the 12th of May, the last Monday in July, the first Monday in October, and on the 24th of December. The Market-place is well situated near the centre of the town, and greatly ornamented by the public buildings lately given by his Grace: among which are the Market-house, in the Gothic style, highly finished and decorated, the Shambles, and Font. There is an ancient and immemorial custom retained here, on the proclamation of the several fairs: Divers adjacent townships, which are free of toll in the borough by this service, send their Representatives to attend the Bailiff on the eve of the fair, when he makes proclamation: after which they keep watch all night in every quarter of the town.[†] This is the most perfect remains of watch and ward retained in any part of this county.

Here is a School endowed with a revenue arising out of the tolls; but to which of the Lords of Alnwick it owes its constitution, I have gained no certain information.[‡]

This town was subject to all the miseries of the Border Wars, and in 1448, was reduced to ashes by the Scots.

The Church stands a little distance from the town, retaining no very distinguishing marks of antiquity.
[*]
In the south aile is a tomb formed in the recess of the wall, with three recumbent effigies; but of what personages, no inscription or tradition discovers: probably they represent some of the family of Veseys, who were founders or great benefactors.

Here are two Dissenting Meeting-houses, and a modern Westlean Conventicle.

An Hospital was founded here by the Percies, in the reign of King Edward III. dedicated to St. Leonard; and by Henry Lord Percy, (the first of that name) afterwards Earl of Northumberland, made an appendage to the abbey, 50 Edward III.[†]

The attention there is given by the Duke's servants, resident at the castle, to satisfy the inquiries and curiosity of travellers, afforded us an easy access to the pleasure grounds which lead to Huln Abbey. [‡] The road we passed is calculated for the family's private use and retirement; but such is his Grace's benevolence to the public, that the eye of the curious is not excluded from those beautiful scenes. The way to Huln forms one of the sweetest and most romantic rides in the county; where nature has left the lands open, art has happily disposed her works with the justest taste, to supply the vacancy. The entrance is by a steep descent to the vale, through which the river winds its course. The road by traversing the hills obliquely, renders the way easy to the passenger: it is cloathed on each hand with plantations of various kinds of forest trees, mingled with great judgment, and so disposed, that the pines and evergreens give an agreeable variegation of colour in the foliage, without deadening the scene. Nothing can be more gloomy than long-extended lines of dusky firs, which, as the Poet [*] justly observes, ‘blot the horizon.’ These plantations are bordered on each side of the road with a variety of flowering shrubs and tufts of flowers. After passing this agreeable grove by irregular windings, we descended into a plain washed by the solemn stream of sleepy Aln, which scarce appears to flow, so dull it seems, in this romantic valley, shut in on every hand by lofty eminences, covered with wood, forming a spacious theatre near two miles in circuit. On the right hand the river forms a semicircle, the opposite shore composed of shaken and perpendicular rocks, over whose brink impends a forest of oaks, rising shade above shade up to the crown of the mountains. As the Aln passes away from this sweet vale, and glides from under the feet of those romantic rocks, she doth not even yield a murmur or a sigh; except where constrained by some artificial wears, she turns over with indolence, and falls again to sleep on the succeeding lake.

After passing this plain, the vale grows narrow, the hills and woods are loftier, and the river here and there frets over a few pebbles which impede her passage. Here is every sylvan beauty; here we tasted enjoyment of all the pleasures of a woody scene—the richness of the forest hues, the deep shadow, and the refreshing breeze perfumed by woodbine—together with that solemnity and stillness which sooth the contemplative mind.

As we winded thro' this deep valley, the prospect at length opened upon the scite of Huln Abbey: on the left hand the landskip was abruptly closed with rugged mountains of naked white rocks; opposed to which, on the right, on a grassy eminence, stand the remains of the monastery, humbly mourning in the lowly garb of solitude, and bending down in ruins: over which a tower of the Percys bears the melancholy air of unavailing defence, and overlooks the mouldering walls with an aspect of despondency, in its inability to shield off the strokes of time and devastation. We ascended to the summit of the hill, and being possessed of the keys, by which alone we could have had access to these retreats, we flattered ourselves no obstacle could arise that might deprive us of the sight of the ruins of this religious house, and every thing curious there; but the whole is enclosed with a lofty wall, the interior ground being disposed in gardening: we found the keeper of this place a little man, of a mean and insolent aspect; he heard our request with the door in his hand, after which, with a contemptuous silence, he walked in and turned the key against us, as if he was afraid we should discover some theft he was committing against his Lord. Thus excluded and looking ridiculous enough, we could do nothing more than ride round the walls, by which we observed that the ruins chiefly consisted of a small chapel, wanting little besides a roof: the tower a square building, with exploratory turrets at each corner, is in good repair, fitted up as a pleasure room, commanding a beautiful prospect, as we could sufficiently judge from our lower situation.

The view from this eminence into the vale which we had passed, was singularly beautiful: the ragged, rocky, and barren mountain, which now lay on our right, afforded a bold contrast to the hanging forests and the planted eminences which intersected the winding valley: the Aln was seen in meanders down the nearer and narrow dell, and in the extended distant plain the waters formed a fine lucid crescent, the canal being then happily touched by the sun's beams; the heights cloathed with oaks, the lower hills girt with plantations of various hues, the bold rocks pushing forth their fronts from out the wood, all mingled with that irregularity and wildness nature alone can display in these hilly countries, formed this beautiful landskip.[*]

I will pursue the account given by Mr Grose of this Abbey, as the most perfect one extant. ‘ Hulne was the first monastery of Carmelite Friars in this kingdom. The account of its foundation is thus given by ancient writers: Among the British Barons who went to the Holy Wars in the reign of King Henry III. were William de Vesey Lord of Alnwick, and Richard Gray, two eminent chieftains in the christian army: led by curiosity or devotion, they went to visit the Monks of Mount Carmel, and there unexpectedly found a countryman of their own, one Ralph Fresborn, a Northumberland-man, who had distinguished himself in a former crusade; and in consequence of a vow had afterwards taken upon him the monastic profession in that solitude. When Vesey and Gray returned to England, they strongly importuned the superior of the Carmelites to let their countryman accompany them home; which was at length granted, upon condition that they would found a monastery for Carmelites in their own country. Soon after their return, Fresborn, mindful of their engagement, began to look out for a place for their Convent. After examining all the circumjacent solitudes, he at length fixed upon the present spot, induced, it is said, by the great resemblance which the adjoining hill bore to Mount Carmel: and indeed whoever looks into Maundril's travels, will find that the draught of that mountain, given in his book, bears a strong likeness to this before us.’

‘The above William de Vesey gave a grant of the ground, consisting of twelve or thirteen acres, in his park of Holne; but Fresborn is said to have erected the building himself. The foundation was laid about A. D. 1240, and Fresborn gathering a proper number of Monks, became the first Abbot of the Order; and having presided here with great reputation of sanctity, at length died, and was buried in the monastery about the year 1274.’

The original grant of William de Vesey, was confirmed by his successors Veseys; and by the Percies, after their becoming proprietors of Alnwick: many additional privileges and immunities were added by the succeeding grants, particularised in Mr Grose's work, but too tedious to take place, except only such as are singularly curious following.

‘Also all wild bees, with their fruits of honey and wax, found in Walse and in Holne, as well in the park as in the forest, for the perpetual support of the light in their church; with a provision against the said Friars being defrauded of the said bees, wax, and honey, by the foresters and shepherds there. They shall also have yearly, out of the Lord's coney warren of Houghton, one truss of conies at Easter, and another at the assumption of the blessed Mary. And certain quantities of rushes, and twelve loads of broom, to cover their houses.’

‘Henry Percy, 4th Earl of Northumberland, built in this abbey, a fine tower, as a place of refuge for the Monks to retire to in times of danger. Near it is this curious inscription, in ancient English.’

I n the year of Crist Ihu mccccxxVIII

This Towr was bilded by Sir hen Percy

The fourth Earl of Northūberlād of gret hon̄ & worth

That Espoused Maud ye good Lady full of vertue & bewt̄

Daughtr to Sr. Will̄m harbirt noble & hardy

Erle of Pembrock whos soulis god save

And with his grace cōsarve the builder of this Towr.

‘The annual value of this house is not given by Tanner. Some of the buildings are fitted up and inhabited by servants, who take care of an aviary which his Grace has established here. The other parts are decorated with plantations of various trees and shrubs, so as to afford a delightful point of view, from every station whence they are visible.’ [*]

From an ancient survey which Mr Grose copies, made in 1567, it appears ‘that the cloister is square; in the midst thereof groweth a tree of ewe. It is well paved with stone about the said cloyster, the windowes haith bene all glasyned, and now for the most parte are in decaye."—"The place where the church was in now full of cherry trees."—"In the garden groweth one pear tree, and all the rest be plome trees and bullester trees.’

Mr Wallis says, the famous Biographer, John Bale, lived and studied here, being a member of this little society.

Returning from Hulne by the same road, we passed down to

Notes

*
Her Grace was living when the author made his tour and compiled this work. He should think himself happy, could he compose an Eulogium equal to so eminent and illustrious a character.
↵

*
Guerite, Fr. a centry-box.
↵

*

1. Gilbt. Tysonn Lord of Bridlington, Walton, Malton, & Alnewicke at the time of the Norman Conquest. He had Issue Wm Tysonn his S. & Heire, & Rich Tysonn.

2. Wm Tysonn S. & H. of Gilbt. had issue one only daughter Beatrix, who was given in marriage by Wm the Conqr. D. of Normandy & then K. of England, to be married to one of his Noblemen called Ivo Vesey Lord Vesey with the Barony of Alnewick & Malton & all the Lands thereto appertayneing.

3. Richd. Tysonn 2d S. of Gilbt. founder of the Monastery of Gisbrough: & by the gift of Gilbt. his F. was Ld. of Shilbotille, Hasand, Newton, Reighton, Foland, & Boxfield. Et Ecclesiae de Gysyns ex dono patris sui. This Richd. lies buried in the Abbey of Gisborough, which was of his owne foundation. He had Issue

4. One only Sonne named Wm Tysonne—& Wm Tysonne had Issue also one onely Son named German Tysonne.

5. German Tysonne had issue onely one D. Benedicta his heir, who was mar. to Wm Hilton Baron of Hilton, & was Father of Alexr Hilton, who was father of Robt. Hilton Dnus Hilton mil.

Gilb. Tysonn, Lord of Bridlington, Walton, Malton, Alnewick, and other great possions & Landes. He mar. Beatrix a Norman & near kinswoman to Wm. the Conqr. & after K. of Engl. & by her had Issue two S. Wm. & Richd. which Richd. his 2d. S. was founder of the Abbey of Gisborough. His arms were vert, 3 Lions rampant argent, crowned & collared, Or, with chains coming over the backs of them.

Wm Tysonn Son & H. of Gilbt. mar. ye D. of Gilbt. de Gaunt, Earl of Lincolne, & had issue Alda his onely & sole D. & H. mar. to Ivo Vesey Ld Vesey & Baron of Alnewick & Malton. This Wm fell in the Battle of Hastings, on the side of W. the C. & in the life time of his Father. Ivo Vesey was so called from a town of yt name in Normandy where he was born. The arms of Vesey were Or, a Cross, sable.

Ivo Vesey, by Alda, sole D. and H. of Wm Tysonn, had issue Beatrix, their sole D. and H. & heir of all those Lands of Bridlington, Walton, Alnwick, & Malton, with all their Roialties and lands thereto belonging.

Eustace Fitz John, a noble Baron, the S. of John Monoculus, or the one eyed Lord of Knaresborough, Br. & H. of Surlo de Burgo, who in the reign of the Conq. builded the Castle of Knaresborough in the Co. of York. This Serlo & John were the sons of Eustace, a Norman. And this Eustace Fitz John mar. to his first w. Agnes, D. of Wm. the Constable of Chester, founder of the Abbey of Norton, & sister and H. of Wm. her br. Constable of Chester, who died witht issue. And by the said Agnes he had issue Richard Fitz Eustace, & bore for his arms quarterly Or & Gules, a Bend sable. Eustace Fitz John marryd to his 2d. w. Beatrix, the onely D. & H. of Ivo Lord Vesey, with whom he had the Baronies of Malton and Alnewicke, and with her consent founded the Abbies of Malton & Alnewicke, & the Hospitall at Broughton. And by her he had Issue Wm their onely S. who assumed to himself and his posteritie the sirname and arms of Vesey.

Wm Lord Vesey, in right of his mother Baron of Alnewicke & Malton, son of Eustace Fitz John, & heire to his mothers estate, and of all the Lord Vesey his lands, and the onely childe of Beatrix his mother, the onely H. of Ivo Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke and Malton as aforesaid. This William Lord Vesey he married Burga the D. of Robt Esto Hevill, whose armes were Barry of ten pieces Argent & Gules, & by her had issue Eustacius Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke, his S. & H. & Warren Vesey Dnus d' Knapton ex dono Willi patris Matildis Waleranni uxor Warini.

Eustacius Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke & Malton, S. & H. of William, in right of his mother Lord Vesey; he married Margaret (of some named Marion) D. of Wm. K. of Scotts, & Earle of Huntingdon in England, and by her he had issue Wm Lord Vesey, Baron of A. & M. his son & H. & Richard N•t•us.

William Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke, S. & H. of Eustacius Lord Vesey, mar. to his first w. Is•l the D. of Wm. surnamed Louspec, E. of Salisbury, but had no issue: and then he married Agnes D. of Wm. de Ferrers, E. of Derby, & by her had issue John Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke, who died without issue, & Wm who after the death of his brother John, was Baron of Alnewicke and Ld Vesey. The armes of Ferrers were V•rry of Or & Gules.

John Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke, S. & H. of Wm. married the D. of _____ Bellomonte, but had no issue; leaveing William his younger brother his heire, who after his death was Ld Vesey and Baron of Alnewicke.

Warren Vesey above named, by Matilda his wife, had issue one onely D. named Marjory, their sole heire, who was mar. to Gilbt Atton Dnus d' Atton in Pickering Lythe. The arms of Atton are Barrways of 6 pieces, Or & Azure, on a Canton, Gules, a cross floree, argent.

Gilbt Atton, Lord of Atton, he mar. Marjory the onely D. & heire of Warren Vesey, Lord of Knapton; & they had issue Wm. Atton, of Pickering Lythe, there sone & heire. This Wm Atton mar. _____ and by her had issue Gilbert his sone & heire, who died without issue: and William his 2d son.

Sr Wm Atton, Knt. 2d. S. of Wm. & grand childe of Gilbert, who mar. Marjory Vesey, Lord of Atton in Pickering Lythe, & Br. & H. of Gilbert, who died without issue. He mar. _____ & had issue Gilbt his onely S. & Heire.

Sir Gilbert Atton, Knt. Lord of Atton in Pickering Lythe, son & heire of Sr. Wm Atton, Kt. & cozen & next heire of John Lord Vesey, Baron of Alnewicke; and so this Gilbt being his next heire, as descended frō Warren Vesey by Gilbt Atton Lord of Pickering Lyth, who mar. Marjory the D. & sole heire of Warren Vesey, Lord of Knapton aforesde; & so the Veseys descended from Wm. the first Ld. Vesey in right of his mother. This Gilbt was found next H. to Wm. the last Ld. Vesey & Baron of Alnewicke, whose sonne John Lord Vesey died in his fathers life time, without issue: and so this Sr. Gilbt Atton, was admitted as the next heire of the Lord Vesey, & had both the honour & armes: he had issue his only sonne Sr. Wm Atton. Knt. who left three Dau. his heires to the whole Estate both of the Attons & Veseys. This Gilb̄t is in sundry recordes stiled Sr Wm Atton, Knt. Lord Vesey.

Wm Lord Vesey, 2d S. of Wm Lord Vesey & br. & H. of John Ld Vesey, who died without issue, and after the death of his br. John was Lord Vesey & Baron of Alnewicke. He married Isabell the D. of Robt Perington & the widowe of Robt Lord Wells, and by her had issue John their only S. & H. who died in his father's life time withoute any issue, leaving Gilbt d' Atton the 3d of that Xian name his cossen & next heire.

Gilb̄tus iste de Atton tertius & ultimus sui nominis deficientibus Dnis de Vesey, tanquam cōsanguineus & {per} ximus heres ascendit ad Hēditatem suam {per} lineā rectā descendentum a Warino de Vesey. et sui gener̄is primus fuit, qui, rejectis armis sive insiḡnibus paternis illorum arma militaria {per} suit in posterum usurpabat, Crucem scilicet fabulinam in Campo Aureo.

Sr. Wm Atton, Kt. Lord Vesey and Baron of Alnewick only S. of Sr. Gil̄bt Atton, Kt. who was found next heire to Wm Lord Vesey, & to John last Ld. Vesey, who died in the life time of his F. Wm. withoute issue. This Wm Atton Ld Vesey, he mar. Isabell ye Dau. of Hen. Lord Piersey, the fifth of that Xian name, whose armes were in a field Or. a Lion rampant azure, and by her he had issue 3 Daūrs his heires, Elizabeth, Anastacia, & Katherine. Elizabeth was first mar. to Wm Place, Esq whose armes were argent, a fesse, gules, & above the fesse charg•d with 2 Mullets sable, and by him had issue a son named also William. And 2dly she was mar. to Sir John Conyers of Sockburne, Knt. whose armes were Azure, a Maunch, Or.

Anastasia the 2d of the D. & Coheiresses of Wm Atton Ld Vesey was mar. to Edw̄d St John, Knt. whose armes were argent on a chief indented Gules, two Mullets pierced, Or.

Katherine the 3d D. was mar. to Sr Ralph Ewre, Knt. of whom descended the Ld Eweres who bare quarterly Or & Gules, on a Bend, sable, 3 Escallops argent.

Sr John Conyers had issue by the Widow Place, Robt Conyers, afterwards a Knt. & from them descended Conyers of Sockburne.

Sr Edw̄d St. John had issue by Anastatia Atton, one only Daūr, their heire, named Margaret, who was married to Thos Bromfleet, Knt. by whom he had issue Hen. Bromfleet, created Lord Vesey at the coronation of Q. Margaret, W. to K. VI. Hen. Bromfleet Lord Vesey had issue one onely Dau. Margaret, mar. to John Ld Clifford, who bare Checkie Or & Azure, a fesse, Ruby: in whose posteritie the honour of Lord Vesey continues to this day, in Francis Earle of Cumberland, Lord Clifford, Westmoreland & Vesey.

Sir Ra. Ewre, Kt. S. & H. of John who married Katherine Atton, one of the D. & Coheires of Wm Atton, Knt. Lord Vesey, had by her issue Sr Wm Ewre, Knt. from whom in lineal descent is cum Wm now Ld Ewre, & divers others.

E Folio MSS of pedigrees penes Geo. Bowes, Esq Randal's Manuscripts.

The Lordship of Alnwick at the time of the conquest belonged to Gilbert Tyson, who being slain in the battle of Hastings, on the part of King Harold, left this Lordship of Alnwick, and that of Malton in the county of York, to his son William Tyson.—Randal's Manuscripts.

Dugdale Monast. vol. II.

This was formerly a Barony of the Veseys, for Henry II. gave it to Eustace Fitz John, father of William Vesey, in tenure of 12 Knights fees.

Gibson's Camden.

↵

*

- Eustace Fitz John

- William He married the Earl of Salisbury's daughter, and in the 10th year of King Henry III. had livery of the castle of Alnwick, &c.

- Eustace

- William

- John de Vesey,

Who successively held the Barony of Alnwick.

The Lord Eustace had great alliances by marriage; his eldest sister Matilda marrying Robert de Muschamp, the first Baron of Wooler.

Cecilia, a younger sister, married Hugh de Baliol, Baron of Bywell.

Lord Eustace himself married Agnes daughter of William King of Scotland, and his own mother was of the noble house of Stutvill of Knaresbrough in Yorkshire, the daughter of Lord Robert Stutvill.

Wallis.

↵

*

A. D. 1093. Rex Scottorum Malcholmus, & primogenitus ejus filius Edwardus, cum multis aliis in Northumbria die S. Bricii a militibus Rodberti Mulbrai Northumbrorum comitis, occisi sunt juxta Alne fluvium.

Corpus vero regis, cum suorum nullus remaneret, qui terra illud cooperiret, duo ex indigenis carro impositum in Tinemuthe sepelierunt.

Lel. Col. vol. II. p. 357.

↵

†

Malcolinus Rex Scottorum quinquies Northumbriam invasit. Primo regnante Edwardo rege, quando Tosti Northumbr. fuit Romae. Secundo reg. Gul. bastardo, quo tempore Clivelandiam etiam depopulavit. Tertio reg. eodem Gul. sub Walchero episcopo. Quarto reg. Gul. Rufo usque ad Cestre pervenit. Quinto sub eodem Gul. quo tempore a Morkello milite occisus est cum filio prope Alne flu. & sepultus apud Tinimuth. Unde Margareta regina ejus uxor ex animi moerore obiit.

Ibid. p. 387.

Margareta, &c. ex quo genuit Edwardum, Edgarum, Alexandrum, David, qui omnes post patrem in Scotia regnaverunt praetar Edwardum qui cum patre occisus est.

Ibid. p. 416.

↵

‡

Mr Wallis speaks of this event in the following words: ‘Malcolm thought himself secure by the absence of the King's troops. Mowbray considered this, and came upon him with the forces of his government. A smart battle ensued. The Scots being deprived of their usual courage by their surprize, gave ground. The Sovereign and his son astonished to see it, rode from rank to rank, exhorting, intreating, and imploring them to remember the glory of the Scotch arms, and were both slain.’

P. 397.

↵

*

Malcolinus Rex Scottorum genuit e Margareta, Edgari Clitonis filia, sex filios, Eadwardum, Eadmundum, Eadgarum regem, Alexandrum regem, Ethelredum, David regem, & 2 filias, Matildem reginam Angl. & Mariam, quam Eustachius comes Bononiae in conjugium accepit.

Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 128.

↵

†
Grose.
↵

*
Grose.
↵

†

Antoninus de Bek, &c.

Castrum de Alnewick, quod ei Gul. de Vesey contulerat, confidens in eo, quod illud ad opus filii sui parvuli & illegitimi Gulielmi conserverat, & ei adulto traderet, accepta pecunia Henrico de Percy vendidit.

Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 334.

Carta Ep̄i. Dun. qua Baronia de Alnewyk. H. de P. concessit A. D. 1309. A. 3. Edw. 2.

Rym. Tom. 3. p. 183.

A Permissione divinia, &c. Noveritis me dedisse Concessisse & hac carta nostra confirmasse, nobili viro Domno Hen. de Percy, Baroniam, Castrum, Manerium et villam de Alnewyk, cum villis Hamelettis Membris Advocationibus Ecclesiarum, Abbathiarum Prioratuum Hospitalium et Capellaniarum, simul cum molendis Pratis Boscis, Dominiis, Dominicis, Terris, Patris Villenagiis, Villanis, cum eorum sequelis & catallis, Feodus Militum, Homagiis, Redditibus, servitiis Liberorum Hominum, Wardis, Releviis Escaetis Hundredis, Wapent, et Cur. simul cum omnibus aliis Pertinentiis et proficuis quae aliquo modo accidere poterunt ad Baroniam praedictam; scilicet.

Quicquid habuimus de dono nobilis viri Domini Willielme de Vesey, infra Baroniam praedictam, et alibi infra comitatum Northumbriae, una cum Ferijs Mercatis Warennis Chaceis Wrecco Maris, et omnibus aliis libertatibus liberis consuetudinibus Juribus et aliis rebus quibuscunq. ad predictam Baroniam spectantibus, ubique infra Comitatum praedictum, et extra, sine allo retenemento.

Habenda et Tenenda praedicto D. H. haeredibus & assignatis suis, Baroniam praedictam, cum Castro, Villis, Membris, et aliis pertinentlis, Juribus Libertatibus proficuis et aliis rebus quibuscunq. in omnibus, sicut praedictum est, de Domino Rege & haeredibus suis, per Servitia inde debita et consueta inperpetuum.

Et praeteria concessimus pro nobis & haeredibus Nostris, quod omnes Terrae et omnia Tenementa cum servitiis, et aliis pertinentiis suis, quae Isabella quae fuit uxor Dni Johannis de Vesey senioris, et Isabella, quae fuit uxor dicti Willielmi de Vesey tenet in Dotem de Baroniā praedictā, et quae post mortem praedictarum Isabellae et Isabellae ad nos et Haeredibus Nostros reverti deberent, post decessam enjuslibet ipsarum Isabellae et Isabellae praefato domino Henrico Haeredibus et assignatis suis remaneant Tenenda simul cum Baronia et omnibus terris et tenementis predictis, de domino Rege et Haeredibus suis, per servitia inde debita et consueta imperpetuum.

Et nos praefatus Antonius, et Haeredes nostri, praedicto domino Henrico haeredibus et assignatis suis praedictam Baroniam cum Castro Villis membris, maneriis, et aliis pertinensiis, Libertatibus proficiis et aliis rebus quibuscumque, in omnibus, ficut praedictum est, contra omnes Geates warranti•abimus et defendimus imperpetuum.

In cujus rei testimonium presenti chartae sigillum nostrum est appensū, hiis testibus, nobilibus viris, Dominis.

- Comitibus.

- Henrico de Lacy, Lincolniae

- Roberto de Umfravill de Anegos

- Militibus.

- Dominis

- Roberto de Clifford

- Roberto de Hilton

- Johanne de Cambtion

- Richardo Marmeduck

- Ada de Henton

- Johanne de Dudden

- Willielmo de Gossewyk et aliis.

Dat. apud Kenyton in manerio nobilis viri Dn̄i Joh̄is Comitis Warennae, nono decimo die men. Novemb. An̄o Dn̄i Millesimo trescentesimo nono, Patriarchaetis nostri quarto, & Consecrationis nrae vicesimo sexto.

Pro H. de Percy de Conventionib. cu. Ep̄o. Dun. Rym. Tom 3. p. 185. A. D. 1309. A. 3. Edw. 2. Pat. 3. E. 2. m. 30.

Rex

omnibus adquos, &c. salutem.

Quia intelletimus quod, inter venerabilem patrem A. Dunelmense Episcopum et dilectum et fidelem nostrum Henricum de Percy, quaedam convensiones praetactae et praelocutae sunt, videlicet, quod idem Episcopus praedictum Henricum de Castro et Manerio de Alnewyk, cum pertinentiis feoffabit.

Nos, eidem H. Volentes in hac parte, gratiam facere specialem, concedimus exnunc et licentiam damus, pro nobis & Haeredibus nostris, quantum in nobis est, eidem H. quod, si contingat ipsos Episcopum & Henricum super conventionibus praedictis ad invicem concordare, et quod idem Episcopus ipsum H. de Castro et Manerio praedictis cum pertinentiis voluerit feoffare, quod id H Castrum illud et manerium, cum pertinentiis ingredi possit; ita quod ipse et Haeredes sui Castrum et Manerium praedicta cum pertinentiis, teneant de nobis et Haeredibus nostris, per fertitia inde debita & consueta imperpetuum.

Nolentes qd praedicti Ep̄us & H. vel. eōr Haeredes, ratione praemissor p. nos vel haeredes nr̄os, aut Ballivos. seu Ministros nostros quoscunq. occasionentur, molestentur in aliquo, vel graventur.

In cujus, &c. Teste Rege apud Eborum 26 die Octobus.
Per ips̄u. Regem, nunciante Comite corrubiae.

↵

*
Grose.
↵

*

Lord Percy made a solemn feast

In Alnwick's princely hall;

And there came Lords and there came Knights,

His chiefs and Barons all.

With wassel, mirth, and revelry,

The castle rung around;

Lord Percy call'd for song and harp,

And pipes of martial sound.

The minstrels of thy noble house,

All clad in robes of blue,

With silver cressents on their arms,

Attend in order due.

The great achievements of thy race,

They sung their high command;

How valiant Mainfred o'er the seas

First led his northern band.

Brave Galfred next to Normandy

With virtuous Rollo came,

And from his Norman castles won

Assum'd the Percy name.

They sung how in the Conqueror's fleet

Lord William ship'd his powers,

And gain'd a fair young Saxon bride,

With all her lands and towers.

Then journeying to the holy land,

There bravely fought and died;

But first the silver cressent wan,

Some Paymin Soldan's pride.

They sung how Agnes' beauteous heir,

The Queen's own brother wed:

Lord Josceline sprung from Charlemagne,

In princely Brabant bred.

How he the Percy name reviv'd,

And how his noble line,

Still foremost in their country's cause,

With godlike ardour shine.

With loud acclaims the listning crowd,

Applaud the masters song;

And deeds of arms and war became

The theme of every tongue.

Piercy's Hermit of Warkworth.

↵

†

Ex Registro Monasterii de Whitby.—In the Harleyan Collection, No. 692 (26) fo. 235.

William Lord Percy, the fyrst founder of Whitby, his armes "Field azure, 5 millpikes Or." He begat of Emme of the Porte Lady Percy, Alayne Percy: who by Emme of Gawnt his wife, begat William that succeeded him, Walter, Jeffrey, Henry, and Alayne: and he lyeth buryed in the Chapter House of Whitbye, and his mother Emme of the Porte. Which Emme fyrst was Lady of Semer besides Skarburgh afore the Conquest, and of other landes, William Conqueror gave to Sir William Percy for hys good service: and he wedded hyr that was very heire to them in discharging of his conscience.

Gul. Percy dedit. Whitby in opus restaurandi monasterii ubi Stephanas Abbas fuit.

Idem Gul. Percy Whitby monachis abslulit.

Stephanas Abbas caepit cum suis restaurare monaster S. Mariae Ebor. favente ac juvante Alano comite Richemondiae, A. D. 1088.

Ex Libello Stephani li Abbatis S. Mariae Eboraci.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 22.

↵

*

The second William Lord Percy, the sonne of the first Alayne married Aliza, that lyeth at Whitbye, by whom he had Alayne his first begotten sonne that dyed without issue, Richard the first, Lord Percy, Robert Percy who begat John Percy.

In the year of grace 1120, and in the 20th year of King Henry the first, William the Prince of England was at Barkeflete in Normandye, and was purposing to follow into England his father, and he was drowned in the sea, and many mo noble folkes not farre fro the land; among whom was Richard a bastard sonne of the King, and also his bastard sister the Countyes of Percy (or Perche in France) Richard the Earl of Chester and his wyfe the King's nese; and the Archdeacon of Hertford, and many other to the number of 140: and none of them escaped but one rude fellow a Bocher, and he swamme all night upon an ore, and in the morning he was driven to the land side, and he told all the matter and casualtye.

Ex registro Monast. de Whitby

↵

*

The first Richard Lord Percy, had the 3 William Lord Percy, who founded the Abbey of Handell in the honour of our Lady anno Christi 1133o. and anno 1147 he founded the Abbey of Salley, in Craven, of white Monkes; and he gave to the Monkes of Whytbye the church of Semer; and to the Monkes of Fowntaynes Malmor and Mahoter; and he gatt on Mary his wyfe Walter the fyrste sonne, Alayn his second sonne, Richard the third sonne, and William the fyrste Abbot of Whythye, Maud and Agnes, and when he died he was buried at Salley in Craven, &c. William the fyrst Abbote of Whytbye stode Abbote 26 yeres, and is beried in the Chapter House of Whytbye.

Maude the elder daughter, Countess of Warwyke, married William Earl of Warwyke; Agnes Lady Percy marryied Jocelin Luvain, called Percy by his wyfe. This Jocelyn was the sonn of Godfrey Lo•ain Duke of Brabant and brother to Adelyne Queen of King Henry the first king of England, and he wedded this dame Agnes Percy upon condition that he shold be called Jocelyn Percy, or els that he shold bare the armes of the Lords Percy, and he toke the counsell of his syster, and he chose rather to be called Jocelyn Percy, then to forsake his own armes, (which be "Feld Ore, a Lyon rampant azure") for so shold he have had no right title to his father's inheritance; and so of right the Lord Percy shold be Duke of Brabant, though they be not so indede. And to this Jocelyn Percy King Henry the second gave and conserved the honor of Petworth, as William Erle of Arundel and his sister gave the say'd honor. And this Jocelyn gatt of Agnes his wife Henry, Alianor, Adalice, Robert, and Richard, and the said Agnes is b•ried in the Chapter House of Whytbye.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*

The first Henry Lord Percy married Isabell Bruse, to whom Adam de Bruse gave in full marriage with his daughter, all the towne of Leuenton with the appurtenances, by the assent and consent of his heires. And the Erle gatt on his wife William and Henry.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*

The fourth William Lord Percy, after the death of Agnes his grandame, and Henry his father and Richard his uncle, came to the whole inheritance of his elders, and he gatt of Helyn his wife, Henry his eldest sonne, Jeffrey Lord of Semer, Walter Lord of Kildale, that lyeth at Gisburne, William Lord of Dunsle, Ingelram Lord of Dalton: and he dyed in his good age, and is buried at Salley in Craven, &c.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

†

The second Henry Lord Percy, of the daughter of the Erle Warren, gat William and John that dyed without issue, and the third Henry that was his successor; and he dyed in his good age and is buried by his father in the Abbey of Salley in Craven.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

‡

The third Henry Lord Percy gat on Alianour the dawgter of the Erle of Arundell Henry and William, and he dyed in the yere of grace 1268, and is buried at Fowntaynes afore the high alter. A•ianour Arundell Lady Percy, buylded the Chappel in the mannor of Semer, and she dyed afore hyr husband, Anno Gratiae 1263.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*
In the history of Stirlingshire lately published, this battle is particularly mentioned, with some singular circumstances not noted in the account given thereof page 60, &c. in this vol.— The most material are: That the Scots army was flanked on one hand by Woodlands, the defiles of which would greatly impede the English horse. That the Scotch army before engaging kneeled down to prayers, which suppliant posture the English apprehended was to denote their submission and that they begged their lives; a conceit in the author as improbable as ridiculous: no credulity or confidence in the authority could reconcile so simple a tale to common sense. That after the English army were put to the rout, Glocester, attended by his military tennants, made a desperate effort to retrieve the lost honours of the day, in which he fell. That on the day of the general engagement Robert Bruce being attacked by Sir Henry Boynton, slew him with a battle ax, which was a signal to the Scotch army for the onset. These are material variances from the relations of other authors, and in the above work appear unsupported.
↵

†

The 4th Henry Lord Percy was Lord of Alnewyk, and he repaired the Castell of the same; and he by the lycense of King Edward founded a Chauntrie of 2 Pristes in the chapel of Semer; and King Edward gave to him the countye of Carryk, and the countye of Bowgan, and he gat on Idonn Clyfford, Henry, William, Richard, Maude, Alianour Fitzwater, Isabell, Thomas Bishop of Norwich, Roger, and Margaret, that was married to the Earl of Angus son, and his heir.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*

The 5th Henry Lord Percy married Mary the daughter of the Erle of Lancaster anno gratiae 1334o, and he gat on hyr Henry the fyrst Erle of Northumberland, Thomas the Erle of Worcester, and Isabell married to Gilbert of Aton. And King Edward the third, in the 5th yere of his reigne in his parliament, by his letters patents gave to the sayd Henry and his heires for his good service, the reversion of the mannor and castell of Warkworthe and of the mannor of Routhbery, and of other landes and tenements, which John de Clavering held in the countye of Northumberlande to him and to his heires male of the King, and other things, which after the deth of the sayd John shold revert to the King, yf the sayd John dyed without heire male.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*
This Thomas was created Earl of Worcester. In the 2d year of King Richard 2d he was appointed Admiral of the northern seas, with Sir Hugh Calvely, Knight; they had of their retinue 720 men at arms, 775 archers and 140 cross bow-men: On a cruise they met with seven French merchantmen, richly laden, under convoy of a man of war, which they engaged and took: in 1379 being ordered on an expedition to France, the fleet was dispersed by a violent storm, in which it suffered great loss; Sir Thomas having rid out the storm was soon after attacked by a large Spanish ship, which under all his disadvantages he at length boarded and took. In the succeeding years he bore many distinguished offices under government, and in the 10th year of the same reign he was made Admiral of the fleet which carried the great armament into Spain: in the 21st of King Richard 2d he was created Earl of Worcester; his affections were not transferred to Richard's successor King Henry 4th, though he received from him many distinguishing marks of favour: he fell from his allegiance, and engaging in a confederacy with his brother the Earl of Northumberland, and Hotspur, who were then in arms, after an unsuccessful conflict was taken prisoner and beheaded at Shrewsbury.
↵

*

The sixth Henry Percy was made Erle of Northumberland by King Richard the second, on the day of his coronation; and he gat on Margaret the daughter of Raffe. Lord Nevyll, Henry Knight, Thomas Knight, Raffe Knight; and after her death he weddet the Countes of Angus daughter and heire of the Lord Lucy, (whose armes be "Feld Gules, three fyshes argent) and she gave to hyr husband and his heires by deed and by fine the honor of the Castel and Lordshippe of Cockurmuthe.

Edmond Mortymer the first Erle of Marche, of Leonells dawghter and heire got Roger the second Erle of Marche and of Ulnestre which was slayne at Trym in Ireland; and Edmond his brother that dyed in prison of Owen of Glendore; and Elizabeth that was wedded to Syr Henry Percy sonne and heire of the Erle of Northumberland, that was slayne at Shrowesbury of King Henry 4. and this Roger that was slayne at Trym, gat on the elder dawghter of the Erle of Kent the noble Edmond the last Erle of Marche and Ulnestre; and Roger his brother, which dyed in coming from France; and Anne the Countes of Cambrige, mother of Richard the third Duke of York, and Lady Bowster.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*

In the 3 yere of King Henry on S. Magdalene's day, Syr Henry Percy, the Erle of Northumbr. sunne, thorough the Counsaile of Syr Thomas Percy his uncle. Erle of Wicester, gave the King Bataile, and there was slayne; and Syr Thomas Percy Erle of Worrcestre taken, and hanged drawen and quarterid at Shrewsbyri. And at this batayle of Shrewbyri on the Kinges part wer slayne the Erle of Staforde and Walter Blunte wering the King cote armure. They that were slayne on the Kinges party were there buried.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 485.

↵

†

Henry Percy, Knight, the first sonne of Henry the Erle; of Eliz. the Erles dawghter of Marche gate Henry the 2d Erle of Northum. and Elizabeth Clyffurth (afterwards) the Countes of Westmerland. He was slayne at Shrewsbery by King Henry 4th. Also Henry Erle of Northumberland, father to the sayd Syr Henry Percy, in the yere following coming from Scotland towards London for to aske the King's grace, besydes Yorke of the Sheryf of Yorke there was slayne on Bramham More, and he was buryed in the cathedral church of Yorke with Syr Henry his sonne. Elizabeth Percy the daughter of the aforesayd Syr Henry, Knight, first was married to John Lord Clifford (whose armes "Feld Cheker Ore and azure a bar Gules") who by her had Thomas Lord Clyfford, and Thomas had John the Lord Clyfford. Hyr second husband was Raffe Erle of Westmerland (whose armes be "Feld Gules a Saltier argent") who had by hyr John Ne•yle that dyed.

Ex. Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*
Thomas married one of the daughters and coheiresses of David de Strathbolgy, Earl of Athol.
↵

†
Ralph was a party with his brother Hotspur in the victory over the Scots at Newcastle 12th King Richard II. 18th King Richard II. he had a grant of the custody of Berwick upon Tweed to himself and the heirs male of his body. He married the other daughter and heiress of the Earl of Athol. He with his brother Henry were taken prisoners at the battle of Otterburn.
↵

*

Henry Percy the son of Sir Henry Percy that was slayne at Shrewesbery, and of Elizabeth the daughter of the Erle of Marche, after the death of his father and grandsyre was exiled into Scotland in the time of King Henry 4: but in the time of King Henry 5th, by the labour of Johanne the Counter of Westmerland, whose daughter Alianor he had wedded in coming into England, he recoverd the King's grace, and the countye of Northumberland (so was the second Erle of Northumberland. And of this Alianor his wyfe he begat IX sonnes and III daughters, whose names be Johanne, that is buried in Whythye; Thomas Lord Egremont, Katheryne Gray of Pythyp; Sir Raffe Percy; William Percy a Byshopp; Richard Percy; John that dyed without issue; George Percy Clerk; Henry that dyed without issue; Anne; but in the yere of grace 1452 there arose for dyverse causes a greate discord betwixt him, and Richard the Erle of Salisbery, hys wyfes brother: in so much, that many men of both parties were beten slayne and hurt. And in the yere of grace 1453 at Staynford Bridge besydes Yorke there was a battayl set betwixt Thomas Lord Egremont and Richard hys brother, the sonnes of the sayd Erle of Northumberland on the one partie, and two sonnes of the sayd Erle of Salisbery on the other partie; that is to say, Syr Thomas Nevyll and Sir John Nevill: but through the treason, and withdrawing of Peirs of Lounde, the sayd Lord Egremont and his brother were taken, and put in prison at London. And in the year following, that is to say in the yere of grace 1454, on the 22 day of Maye at Saint Albons was the sayd Henry Erle of Northumberland and Thomas Lord Clyfford his nephew, and many other slayne.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

†

King Edward ferid then the Lord Montacute, the Erle of Warwikes brother, whom he had made Erle of Northumberlande, and so prively causid men of the countery to desire the rightful heyre Percy, sun to Henry that was slayne at York felde: and so Percy was restorid, and made Montacute a Marquis and his sunne Duke of Bedforde, which should wedde the Kinges eldest doughter, which by possibilite should be King of England.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 500.

↵

*
John died in his infancy.
↵

†
Thomas was created Lord Egremont: he was slain at the battle of Northampton, 36th King Henry VI. in the King's tent, when the King was taken prisoner.
↵

‡
Ralph was slain at the battle of Hedgelamour in Northumberland, with his dying breath uttering "I have saved the bird in my bosom."
↵

§
John and Henry died young.
↵

‖
William was Chancellor of the University of Cambridge, and Bishop of Carlisle.
↵

**
Richard is not noted in history.
↵

††
George was a Prebend of the collegiate church of Beverly.
↵

‡‡
Catharine married Edm. Grey Earl of Kent, and Ann was thrice married, first to Hungerford Lord Molins, secondly to Sir Lawrence Rainsford, Knight, and lastly to Sir Hugh Vahan.
↵

§§

Henry Percy the third Erle of Northumberland, by the meane of Henry Cardinal of England, and of the tytle of Saint Eusebri, wedded Alianor the dawghter and heire of the Lord Poinings Fitspayne and of Bryane, (whose armes he quartered the first cote, "Six peeces barrewayes Ore and Vert a bendlet Gules," The seconde cote, "Gules a bendlet azure upon three lyons argent passaunt gardaunt") and he gate of hyr Henry the 4th Erle of Northumberland, Alianor, Margaret, Elizabeth, and others.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*

Henry the fourth Erle of Northumberland, married the Lord Harbert's dawghter, by whom he had Henry the 5th Erle of Northumberland.

Ex Reg. Monast. de Whitby.

↵

*
Dugdale's Ad.
↵

*
Thomas was a party in Ask's conspiracy, was arraigned before the Marquis of Exeter, High Steward, and executed at Tyburn 29th King Henry VIII. From him the succeeding Earls of Northumberland descended.
↵

†
Died without issue.
↵

‡
Married Henry Lord Clifford, the first Earl of Cumberland of that name.
↵

§
Maud married John Lord Conyer, whose heiress Margaret married Sir Arthur Darcy, Knight, ancestor of the Earl of Holdernesse, who in her right is Lord Conyers.
↵

*
Colling's Peerage.
↵

*
Hollingshead, Speed, and Stowe.
↵

†

Wood in his Athenae Oxoniensis says, ‘That the Rev. Mr Nathaniel Torporley, a noted Mathematician, being made known to the great Earl of Northumberland, Henry Percy, the generous favourer of all good learning, was received into his patronage, and had a pension paid yearly unto him, several years from his purse. Thomas Hariot went in 1584, with Sir Walter Raleigh to Virginia, where he was employed in the discovery and surveying thereof. After his return into England, Sir Walter got him into the acquaintance of that noble and generous Earl, who finding him a gentleman of an affable and peaceable nature, and well read in the obscure parts of learning, he did allow him a yearly pension of 120l. About the same time Robert Hues and Walter Warner, two other Mathematicians, who were known also to the said Earl, did receive of him yearly pensions also, but of less value; as did Torperley. So that when the said Earl was committed prisoner to the tower, in 1606, Hariot, Hues, and Warner, were his constant companions, and were usually called the Earl of Northumberland's 3 Magi. They had a table at the Earl's charge, and the Earl did constantly converse with them and with Sir Walter Raleigh then in the tower.’

‘Their prison was an academy, where their thoughts were elevated above the common cares of life, explored science in all its pleasing forms, penetrated her most intricate recesses, survey'd the whole globe, till Sir Walter's noble fabric arose, his History of the World, probably by the encouragement and persuasions of these his learned friends.’

Wallis.

↵

*

‘His Lordship's brother Henry Percy was a representative in parliament for Northumberland, but was expel'd 9th December, 17 King Charles I. 1641, for endeavouring to engage the northern army to free his Majesty from the Parliament Fetters, "pour mettre le Roy hors de Peine." as he terms it; to keep up his Majesty's revenue, to maintain Bishops in their rights and functions. He was betrayed after a solemn oath taken by Colonel Goring, afterwards a General of horse under the Earl of Newcastle. With some difficulty and peril he escaped their vengeance. History has drawn his character in most amiable colours. His countenance was awful and commanding respect. His mind liberal and stored with knowledge civil and military. This made him as able a General in the field as he was a prudent and wise Counsellor in the cabinet. In the former he awed the parliament by his management and address; and in the latter embarrassed their measures; in both firm and intrepid; more formidable by his wisdom than his power, tho' that was great; which he employed with the ardour and zeal of a patriot, in the service of a good Master, who, to reward him, created him a Peer, by the stile and title of Baron Percy of Alnwick, 28th June, 1643. He also made him Lord Chamberlain, and give him in charge a treasure he loved well, the conduct of his Queen to Oxford. When the power of the parliament was too enormous to oppose, he retreated beyond sea, leaving behind him a great estate, &c. preferring before them a spotless loyalty and an unwounded honour.’

Wallis.

↵

*
Colling's Peerage.
↵

*

Alnwick, Alnewick or Alnewicke, in Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, implying a town of two fathoms length. In the Deanery of Alnwick, and in Coquetdale Ward.

Randal's Manuscripts.

From the Manuscripts of Roger Gale, Esq. Extract of a letter from Mr Gale to Sir John Clerk, 24th June, 1726.

I had lately an account from Alnwick, of some brass weapons found there by a mason as he was clearing the earth from a rock about a mile N. W. from that place, within the old park,

to get up some stone. After having dug about half a yard deep in the ground, he came to 20 sword blades, and 16 spear heads lying close to the top of the rock, without any case or cover than the soil. The swords were exactly of the same shape as those in the 51st plate of Mr Gordon's book. No 2, 3, and 17 or 18 inches long. Some of the spears resembled 4 and 5 in the same, but others were broader and cut thro' as in the margin. Digging about a foot lower on the hill side, he found 42 brass wedges or chizzels, with a ring near their thicker end, of which I doubt not, but you have seen many, and so need not give you any description of them, but that they are not unlike No 4 in Mr Gordon's 50th plate. How and for what they were used, I will not take upon me to determine absolutely, but by their edges which are much broken and battered, they seem to have been employed as chizzels for cutting stone. I believe they put a wooden shaft in the hollow end of them, and so drove them with a mallet.[*] If the softness of the metal and consequently its unfitness for such work is objected, I answer, that when they had not a harder, necessity would compel them to use such as they had; besides most sorts of stone are so soft when they lie bedded in, and at their first coming out of the quarry, that they might make a very good shift to cut it and cleave it with their tools, while it was under those easy circumstances; to which I may add, that these brass chizzels are of a much harder temper than we know how to give that metal, as are also their swords which are made of it, and other weapons.

The shaft when not employed might be drawn out of the chizzel, and by running a string thro' the ring on their sides, several of them might be tied together, and conveniently carried by the workman at his girdle, or otherwise, and one shaft serve them all. About eight years ago near a bushel of them were found at Cave, upon the banks of the Humber in Yorkshire, under a little Tumulus by the highway side; and what is very remarkable, every one of them was enclosed in a matrix of the same metal, or case, fitting it so exactly, that it seemed to be cast in it, and so fresh and whole were the edges of them, all as if they had never been used.

A little above the place where the swords and spears were buried at Alnwick, was deeply and rudely cut in the rock 1115, but I cannot think these figures had any relation to what was sound below. I have had the good fortune to get a sword and spear, and 3 chizzels,[†] for a crown piece, the rest were seized by the Duke of Somerset's Steward, upon pretence of securing them for his Grace, but were never sent to him. So many of these brass chizzels have been found in this island, and so few any where else, and those only in France, that they seem almost to have been the peculiar tools of the Britons; their near alliance and intercourse with the Gauls easily accounting why they have been sometimes discovered in the antient seat of the latter. The swords and spear heads afore-mentioned being found so near these chizzels, and of the very same metal, is an argument that they belonged to the same people, which I cannot think to have been Romans, who, as I formerly ventured to give you my opinion, seem to have left off the use of brass in their weapons, before their arrival in this island. The word Ferrum much earlier than that time, denoted in their authors all manner of military weapons, and was a general name for them, which I think is some additional strength to my former arguments on that subject.

I am, &c. R. GALE.

Sir John Clerk's Answer. 29th Aug. 1727.

I return you thanks for the account you sent me of the Antiquities found at Alnwick, their number surprised me much. Some of the same kind have been found here in Cairns, nothing in Antiquity is more mysterious than the use of these Instruments of brass, which resemble small hatchets or chissels. I incline to think them warlike instruments, as we generally take the stone hatchets to be: I have 3 or 4 of both kinds. When they came first into my hands, I set about reading such accounts as had been given of them, and found that one Mr Hearne had taken a good deal of pains to prove they were Roman. His dissertation is printed in Mott's Collection of the Transactions of the Royal Society, v. 2. part 4. p. 70. But I cannot be of that gentleman's opinion. The Romans understood better the expeditious ways of doing things, than to make use of such slight and brittle tools: We must then ascribe them to the ancient Britons who used instruments of brass before iron came to take place: What makes me judge they were not chissels, is, that the Britons made very little use of hewn [*] stone, and for that reason little or nothing of their stone monuments does remain. It is indeed probable they made use of them for repairing their highways, for all such instruments found here were in Cairns[†] situated near these ways, and those in my possession have induced me to think that our great highways in Britain were not Roman but British [How then were they warlike instruments?]. I am glad you have got one of the swords, I wish I knew how to get one of the same kind from the Duke of Somerset.

I am, &c. JOHN CLERK.

↵

*
Sir Laurence's System of Agriculture and Gardening, where he mentions some of these found in the small joints and
•
vices of the stone in a quatry near Bishop Weremouth, which is no weak confirmation of my conjecture.

↵

†
The Sword, Spear Hea
•
d, and 2 of the Chissels I presented to my Lord H

•

rtford.
↵

*
The Stones at Stonehenge are hewen.
↵

†

Cairus are burying places, and therefore usually situated near Highways, so that the finding these Tools near Highways, is merely accidental.

R. G.

↵

*
Alnwicke Moor formerly bore the name of the Forest of Aidon. There is a tradition that King John made this foolish institution as a perpetual mark of his displeasure, on account of his having been thrown from his horse in the bogs of this forest, upon his dreadful visit to the north.
↵

*

Machell Vivan, a Scotchman, (born near Aberdeen) beneficed in this county, within three miles of Alnwick. An old man of 110 years of age, was famous for a new growth of hair, breeding of three teeth in the space of two years, and reading of small print without spectacles, whereas 40 years before that time he had used them for the biggest print. He had five children after he was 80 years of age.

England's Worthies.

↵

†

- The townships of Chatton and Chillingham 4 men.

- Cold Marten and Fowbery 4 men.

- Hetton and Hezelrigge 4 men.

- Fawdon and Clinch 4 men.

- Alnham and Alnham Moor 2 men.

- Tughall and Swinhoe 2 men.

- Long Howton and Denwick 4 men.

- Lesbury and Bilton 2 men.

- Lyham and Lyham-hall one.

- Together with the principal inhabitants of the town of Alnwick.

Wallis.

↵

‡

The School stands at the upper end of Pottergate-street, and over the door is the following Inscription:

Haec schola primo in usum municipum

Alaunensium aedificata Anno Dom. 1687

Nunc demum instaurat•r Anno Dom. 1741.

↵

*

The Church stands at the end of Bailiff-gate street: has 3 ailes extending through as many arches into the chancell: has 4 galleries and 27 windows: a neat tower and 3 bells.

Behind the royal arms, over the arch of the middle aile, in entering the chancell, is this inscription in black characters.

Sumptibus Edvardi comitis cognomine Bedford;

Cognita praeclari sunt haec insignia clara.

Anno Qni 1600.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

†
Tanner 398. vide Escheat Northum. 50. Edw. 3. Pat. 50. Edward 3.
↵

‡

John Vesey returning from the Holy War, is said to have first brought Carmelites into England, and to have built a Convent for them here at Holme, a solitary place, and not unlike Mount Carmel in Syria. But in truth there never was any Convent or Monastery founded at Alnwick, or near it, by John Vesey: there was indeed a Monastery of the Order of the Praemonstratenses founded by Eustatius Fitz John, father of William de Vesey, who had the sirname from his mother, an heiress. But this was done in the year 1147, long before the Carmelites were heard of in England. John Bale who was sometime a Carmelite himself, tells us that the first convent of that order was founded at Holme (Hull they now call it) near Alnwick, by Ra. Fresborn, a gentleman of Northumberland, who died A. D. 1274, and was buried in the Convent. Eustatius's Abbey is still to be seen, at half a mile distance from the Convent of Hull, down the river.

Gibson's Camden.

Holme caenobium fratrum Carmelitarum

Camd. 813. Johannes Vesey miles primus fundator, qui e Terra sancta rediens primus in Angliam introduxit Carmelitas fratres.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 103.

A. D. 926. Cantaurienses cum multitudine Danicorum piratarum in loco qui Holm dicitur, pugnaverunt & victores extiterunt.

Lel. Col. vol. II. p. 282.

↵

*
Mason.
↵

*

Here was one of the first houses of the Carmelites, or White Friars, in England, who were brought over by John Lord Vesci about A. D. 1240, and placed here near Hulpark, within the Lordship of Alnwick. The scite of the Black Friars (probably a mistake for White Friars) was granted to Thomas Reve, William Ryvet, &c. 6 Eliz.

Vide inter Mss. Bodl. Oxon, Dodsworth, vol xlv. f. 15. Excerpta ex cartulario Carmelitarum de Alnwyke nuper in custodia Dom. Will. Howard dom. de Naworth, modo penes Joannem Warburton Arm. Somerset Heraldum, A. D. 1720.

Pat. 4. Edw. 2. Pro confirmatione donationum Joannis de Vescy et aliorum.

Pat. 9. Edw. 3.

Tanner's Not.

↵

*

This Convent at the dissolution, says Fuller, was at low rates, in a cheap country valued at 194l. 7s. per annum, but justifies our observation, that even Mendicant Friars had houses endowed with revenues.

Fuller's Ch. Hist. p. 271.

Robert Lesbury, born in Northumberland, the 32d and last Provincial of the Carmelite Order, chosen 1519, was buried at West Chester.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

ALNWICK ABBEY,

now the seat of Michael Doubleday, Esq. This was formerly an Abbey of Premonstratensian Canons, (Dugdale calls it a Priory) dedicated to St. James and the blessed Virgin. It was founded in 1147, by Eustace Fitz John, who by his marriage with Beatrix the daughter of Ivo de Vesey, became Lord of the barony of Alnwick. He endowed it amply.[*]

The charter of foundation, included in a confirmatory charter of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, is addressed to William de Sta Barbara, Bishop of Durham. Among the souls for whose benefit it was erected, is mentioned that of Ivo de Vesci. Dugdale and Stephens do not agree touching the time when this order of Religious came first into England. From Dugdale's authority, it is said that the first of that order came to settle at Alnwick in the year 1147; but Stephens, from the authority of Raynerus, says the order first came over in 1146, and settled at Newhouse, in Lincolnshire, in their monastery built by Peter de Saulia, dedicated to St. Martialis.

In the chronicle of this house, preserved in the library of King's College, Cambridge, there is an account of a Banquet given by Walter de Hepescotes, the Abbot, A. D. 1376, on the day of the assumption of the blessed Virgin Mary, to Henry the 4th Lord of Alnwick, with the 13 following Knights, William de Acon, Richard Tempest, Walter Blount, Allan de Heton, John Coniers, John Heron, John Littleburum, Thomas de Ilderton, Thomas de Boynton, Ingram de Umfravil, John de Dichaunt, John de Swynton, Radulphus de Viners, and many others of the chief gentry of the country, amounting to 120, all entertained in the refectory; beside 86 at a second repast. The cloisters too were filled with inferior people of all ages, to the number of 1020, who were likewise there feasted.[*]

It appears from the same authority, that divers of the Percys were interred here; particularly Henry the second Lord of Alnwick, who died in 1351: Henry the third Lord, who bestowed on the Monks 100l. at his death, A. D. 1368; also Mary his wife, daughter of the Earl of Lancaster. Henry the fourth Lord of Alnwick, A. D. 1372, was admitted in the month of February to the Brotherhood of this Chapter, together with divers other Knights and Esquires; as also, in the succeeding year, Henry his eldest son, with his two brothers, Thomas and Radulphus.

During the Abbacy of Walter de Hepescotes, this house was afflicted with a great scarcity, together with a pestilence, whereby all the cattle belonging to the monastery were destroyed. In this chronicle the following Abbots are mentioned: John, who died in 1350; Walter, who resigned his office in 1362, and was succeeded by Robert; and Walter de Hepescotes, A. D. 1376.[†]

The Abbot of this house was summoned to the parliaments of the 23d, 24th, 28th, 32d, and 34th of King Edward I. also to that held at Carlisle, 35th of the same reign; and to the parliament of the 19th King Edward II.[*]

At the dissolution the revenues of this house were valued at 189l. 15s. by Dugdale, and 194l. 7s. by Speed, there being then 13 Canons. King Edward VI. in the 4th year of his reign, granted the scite to Sadler and Winnington. It came afterwards to the possession of the Brandling family, and the Doubledays from whom the present owner is descended, derived their title by purchase from the Brandlings. This is a sweet though deep retirement, on the banks of Aln, defended by lofty hills to the north and west.

ALNWICK ABBEY GATEWAY

There are no remains of the Abbey, but a Gateway and Tower, which by the architecture and arms sculptured upon the building, shew it is of much more modern date than the foundation of the house. This tower is not square, but oblong, having an exploratory turret on each corner. The north side is ornamented with a nich, canopy'd, capable of receiving a statue five feet high: most probable it contained the effigies of the dedicatory Virgin. Beneath is a figure of an angel in relief, with expanded wings. Over this entrance are shields of arms, a cross, supposed to be the arms of the Veseys, and a cross molin. On the south side, in a nich, is the figure of one of the Religious, of the order of White Friars of Premonstratenses, in his proper habilament, in pretty good preservation. This front is ornamented with shields of arms, the arms of Brabant adopted by the Percys, with the arms of Lucys quarterly, the principal; and also the arms of Vesey.

A gate opens to the east, on each side of which are the figures of cherubs supporting armorial shields: on this front is also a canopy and nich for a statue. Here are the arms of Brabant and the arms of Lucys on separate shields. At this entrance, as also on the north side, were machicolations; and in the center of the arching of the gateway is a square aperture, from whence the possessors could annoy assailants. The masonry of this tower is excellent; the gates of lattice braced with iron still remain.

Above the gate going into the court of the house, is an escutcheon of white marble, much injured by the weather, but retaining some marks of the Sculptor, to distinguish that it once contained the crest of the Doubledays, an arm in armour suspending a mullet. The antiquity of this piece has been much doubted, but the materials determine that point clearly.

This seat of the Doubleday family has nothing very singular to mark it, but the beauty of the retirement, under the hanging woods of the river Aln. The ground plot of the religious house is now included in the orchard; the ruins of which probably afforded materials for the present mansion; but there are not the least remains to denote the exact scite of the monastic buildings, or the place of interment of the illustrious personages before mentioned.

Solemn situations like this, and the ruins of religious houses, always affect my mind with a degree of languishment. Such a seclusion, such a retirement, would have filled my wish. The life of the Ecclesiastic is most desirable, and seems calculated to be the happiest. No natural tendency to indolence and ease prompts this determination; but the serenity of a Churchman's life, under the entire preclusion of all worldly concerns, affords that tranquillity of mind, so necessary to contemplation and study, to philosophic researches, and divine meditation—without the poison of ambition, some minds can enjoy a mediocrity with content—without an impertinent wish to intermeddle with public affairs, some men can sit within the little mansion, busied only in pious duties and contemplations; and amidst domestic peace, living each day, in gratitude for the enjoyment of the rural beauties of some sylvan scene, the plain, the mead, the grotto, and the stream—call it luxury: but the busy world incessantly rolls the heavy wheels of care too near my threshold—I am frequently induced to adopt Horace's description:
WARKWORTH CASTLE.

Agricolam laudat juris legumque peritus,

Sub Galli cantum, Consultor ubi Ostia pulsat.

And a thousand times am induced to follow his precept,

—Rebus omissis,

Atria servantem postico falle clientem.

We passed from Alnwick Abbey to

Notes

*

The village of Hincliff with its demesnes and wastes, with the service of half the tenants. Two parts of the tythes of the Lordship of Tughall, of Alnham, Heysend and Chatton. One moiety of the tythes of Wooler, of Long Houghton and Lesbury. He annexed to it the Priory and Church of Gysnes near Felton, dedicated to St. Wilfred, to hold in pure alms with all its privileges and endowments; a moiety of the tythes and two bovats of land at Gyson, the church of Halgh or Haugh, the lands of Ridley and Morewick Hough, the liberty of erecting a Corn Mill on the river Coquet, and of raising as much Corn on his wastes there as they could plough, with liberty to grind it at his own mill, mulcture free. He also gave the Canons for their table, the tenth part of all the •enison and pork killed in his parks and forests, and of all the fish taken in his fishery by his order, and a salt work at Warkworth.

William de Vesey his son gave them advowsons of Chatton, Chillingham, and Alnham. They also held the advowsons and appropriations of St Dunstans, in Fleet-street, London, and of Sckenfield in Yorkshire. They had 24 acres of Turbary, and liberty of pasturage on Edlingham Common; Lands at Chatton and Falloden: Also four Tenements and a Garden in Newcastle upon Tyne.

Grose and Wallis.

↵

*
Grose.
↵

†

The following list of Abbots is given by Browne Willis. "Thomas Alnwicke occurs Abbot, A. D. 1432 and 1437. Patric Gale, A. D. 1491, in Henry the Seventh's time, when there were accounted 22 religious in this Convent. William Harrison was last Abbot; he surrendered his Convent 22d December, A. D. 1540, 31st King Henry VIII. and had a pension of 50l. per annum, which he enjoyed in 1553, in which year there remained in charge 2l. 6s. 8d. in annuities, and these following pensions. Robert Forster 5l. 6s. 8d. Roger Spence 5l. Robert Baker 5l. Richard Miller 6l. James Samsenne 5l. John Hochinson 5l. William Hudsonne 5l. William Saunderson 1l. and Richard Wheteley 1l.

To which we may add,

Abbots.

Not. Mon.

Baldwin 1st Abbot, ao

1152

Robert el.

1167

Gilbert

Gaufridus

Adam

1208

P— oc. in cro S. Michs.

1224

Ib.

Wilhelmus

1263

John died

1350

Walter res.

1362

Robert succeeded

1362

Walter de Heppescotes

1376

Willis

Thomas Alnwycke oc.

1532 and 37.

Tunstal, p. 8.

Roger Acton made his proof of obedience Oct. 28, 1531.

Ib. p. 5.

Dns Will. Halton el. Sep. 4. 1532 p. mort. Dni Acton.

Rhymer.

He made his profession of obedience to the Bishop of Durham

Sep. 22d following, and was the last Abbot.

Randal's Manuscripts.

MCXLVII

Hoc anno ordo Praemonstratensis venit ad Alnewic, ubi primus Abbas Baldewinus.

Lel. Col. vol. 3. p. 73.

↵

*

An Abbey of Praemonstratensian Canons founded by Eustace Fitz John, A. D. 1147. It was dedicated to the blessed Virgin, and valued 26th Hen. VIII. at 189l. 15s. by Dugd. 194l. 7s. Speed; about which time there were 13 Canons. The site of this house was granted 4 Edw. VI. to Ralph Sadler and Lawrence Winnington.

Vide in Mon. Angl. Tom. 2. Diploma Henry Percy com Northumbriae, recit, & confirm. cartam fundationis: Cartas tres Will. de Vesey filii Eustachii; unam pro Eccl. de Chetton; alteram pro Eccl. de Chaulingham; tertiam pro Eccl. de Alncham. p. 592. Stemma fundatoris ex rol. escaet. 8 Edw. II. in cedula.

In Bourn's History of Newcastle, p. 142. of four tenements and a garden in Newcastle, belonging to this Abbey.

In Newcourt's Repertorium, vol. 1. of the church of St Dunstan, in the West, London.

Registrum et cartas penes Franc Brandling de ead. M•l. A. D. 1639. Collect ex eisdem ms. Dodsworth, vol. xlix.

Chronicon monasterii de Alnwike, ms. in bibl. Coll. Reg. Cantab. hugus apographum in bibl. Stillingfleet, nunc Harleyana, et excerpta ex eodem ms. Cotton. Vitell E xiv. 22. 10.

Cart 2. Joan m. 12. p. 13. pro Turbaria xxiv acrarum inter Yerlesseter et divisas de le Morton et Edelingham.

Plac. in com. Northumb. 21. Ed. 1. assis. vol. 27. de commun pastur. in Edelingham: Cart. 35. Edw. 1. p. 25. recit. et confirm. donationes.

Pat. 1. Edw. 2. p. 2. m 4. pro. Eccl. de Wollore concess. per Nic. Graham: Pat. 5. Edw. 2. p. 1. m. 23. pro Eccl. de Chartam: P. 16. Edw. 2. p. 2. m. 1. de teris ibidem et in Falendon.

Pat. 3 Edw. 3 p. 2. m. Pat. 8. Edw. 3. p. 2. m. 9. vel. 10. Pat. 9. Edw. 3. p. 2. m 14. Escheat Northumb. 50. Edw. 3. p. 56. Pat. 50 Edw. 3. p. 1. m. 24. pro hospitali S. Leonardi ibidem annectendo.

Pat. 9. Ric. 2. p. 1. m. 14. pro. eccl. S. Dunstani in Fletestreet Londini approprianda.

Pat 2. Hen. 4. p. 4. m. 9. Fin. 2. Hen. 4. m 3.

Pat. 35. Hen. 6. p. 2. m ult. Pat. 37. Hen. 6. p. 1. m. 4. pro eccl. de Lakenseld approprianda; et p. 2. m. 20. et 37.

Tanner.

↵

WARKWORTH,

the roads agreeable, and the country finely cultivated. In the way, we had a view of the port of

ALEMOUTH.

This was a dependent manor of the barony of Alnwick. The town is small, but carries on a considerable trade in the export of corn and other produce of the country. The imports are chiefly timber, and some merchandize from Holland. Near the sea, on an eminence, are the remains of a church in the form of a cross. When this edifice was destroyed, or by whom, is not known. The church-yard is still used for sepulture.[*] We approached the town of Warkworth by a fine stone bridge of three arches over the river Coquet, anciently defended by a tower with an iron gate and portcullis.

Notes

*
In the banks, as washed away by the violence of the sea, have frequently been discovered, Bones of an enormous size. Ignorant spectators have retained the circumstance, without distinguishing of what animals these were the remains: and being found near a place of human interment, they are at once conceived to have belonged to men of gigantick stature. The constant warfare that distressed these shores for ages, might occasion the slaughter of vast numbers of horses and other beasts, which after a day of havock may have been thrown into one common pit. The remains of elephants have been discovered in several parts of England, and have given the like apprehension to the vulgar, that giants once distressed this island.
↵

THE CASTLE OF WARKWORTH

stands on a lofty eminence, the town of Warkworth lying on the northern inclination of the hill, and forming a pleasing, though steep approach to the, castle: the street is wide, and contains some modern buildings. This access gives the fortress an august appearance.[†]

An account of this place, published in the Newcastle Courant in the year 1772, contains the following particulars: ‘It is about three quarters of a mile from the sea. The principal street stands upon a rising ground, at the higher end of which, upon an eminence, are the remains of an ancient castle. The market place is in the middle of the town, where is a fine stone cross on a spacious area at the meeting of two streets, the one leading to the church, which is an elegant structure, whose spire is upwards 100 feet high; the other to the bridge, where is an ancient tower. Contiguous to the bridge is a large freestone quarry, the stones of which are so much esteemed, that great quantities thereof are shipped for London. The salmon fishery here is carried to a very great extent, so that at the mouth of the Coquet, in the summer season, as well as in the river itself, are some thousands caught, which gives employment to a number of hands. The river, which almost surrounds the town, directs its course in a straight line for about half a mile, then leaving the fine and pleasant villas of Glosterhill and Amble on its southern banks, while it loses itself in the ocean. In the year 1764, it left its old course, and forced its way between two sandy hills overgrown with bent, that had obstructed its passage for ages, and is now settled in a very deep channel, with a fine clay bottom, which makes it navigable for small craft. It is said there is upwards of 14 feet of water upon the bar at full sea, and continues that depth very near the town; so that with a little assistance of art, it might be made to admit ships of a considerable burthen; and as Coquet Island is situated a little to the southward, forms a fine bay at the very mouth of the river. The grounds adjoining thereto abound with a fine seam of coal; and so plentiful is corn, that few counties can equal its fertility. From these considerations, what pity it is that Warkworth was not made a sea-port, since nature has almost half finished the design.’

‘This little borough is governed by a Mayor, who is chosen annually at a Court Leet, and enjoys great privileges by an extensive common, the property of the village, and some little indulgencies from his Grace the Duke of Northumberland; and as the town consists all of free burgesses, is capable of great improvements.’ [*]

The castle stands on the crown of a rock, of an oblong figure; the great tower to the north, placed on the brink of the cliff above the town, is of fine architecture in chisel-work, of a singular figure, being octangular, and from the center of four opposite sides, a turret projects, of a semi-hexagonal form; from the middle of the building a very lofty exploratory turret arises. This part of the castle owes its origin to the Percys, as appears by the Lion of Brabant above the gate, and the arms dispersed over the building. The western side is formed of various irregular towers and walling of different ages, extending along the brink of the cliff, whose foot is washed by the river Coquet. On the south, the ground rises gradually to the height of the rocks on which the western buildings are founded. This side of the castle fronts to a spacious plain or platform, and is defended by a high wall with an outward moat. The ancient gateway and chief entrance to the castle is on this side; the gate defended by circular towers and a draw bridge. The eastern side is placed on the brink of a steep declivity, defended by an outward moat, and a lofty wall guarded by a square bastion near the center, and an angular tower at the south point. The walls enclose a spacious area, almost square, within which the ancient parts of the fortress are very ruinous.

The view from hence is so extensive and various, that description can carry but a very imperfect idea of its members or its beauties: to the east and north-east, there is a sea prospect, with which you take in all the shore we had traversed, with Dunstanbrough and Bambrough Castles at the most distant point of land: the Farn Islands lie scattered like patches on the face of the waters. The port of Alemouth is a nearer object, and at a little distance the mouth of the river Coquet and Coquet Island with its ruined monastery are seen. To the north, you view a rich cultivated country to Alnwick; westward, the banks of Coquet river, graced with little woodlands, which here and there impend on its winding channel; to the south, you view an extensive plain, inclining towards the sea, crowded with villages, and interspersed with woods; the shore indented by many little ports and creeks; the higher grounds are scattered over with innumerable hamlets, churches, and other buildings, mingling with a variety highly pleasing; whilst on the extreme distance, the different teints of the landskip, arising from various objects, require colours to convey their picture to the mind.

Mr Grose, who has given two views of this castle in his excellent work, says, ‘nothing can be more magnificent and picturesque, from what part soever it is viewed; and though when entire it was far from being destitute of strength, yet its appearance does not excite the idea of one of those rugged fortresses destined solely for war, whose gloomy towers suggest to the imagination only dungeons, chains, and executions: but rather that of such an ancient hospitable mansion as is alluded to by Milton,’

Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold

In weeds of peace high triumphs hold.

‘The castle and mote, according to an ancient survey, contained 5 acres 17¾ perches of ground. Its walls on the south, east, and west sides are garnished with towers. The great gate of the castle is on the south side, between two polygonal towers, and is also defended with machicolations.’

‘The keep or dungeon forms the north front; its figure is a square with the angles canted off. Near the middle of each face of this square there is a turret, projecting at right angles, its end terminating in a semi-hexagon: these projections are of the same height as the rest of the keep. This keep is very large and lofty, and contains a variety of magnificent apartments.’

Mr Grose gives the copy of a survey taken of this castle in 1567, of which some extracts may be pertinent here. ‘The Buyldinge of the sayd castell on the sowth parte is thre towres, viz. the Gatehouse towre in the middle thereof, which ys the entrye at a draw bridge over drye moyte; and in the same toure ys a prison and porter lodge, and over the same a fare lodging, called the constables lodgings; and in the curtayne is a fayre and comely building, a chapel, and divers houses of office, and above the great chambre and the Lordes lodginge. On the west side, the posterne towre, and the old hall, which was very fare at the entrye into the hall, for the porche thereof is raysed a little square towre, wherein is two chambres; and on the foresyd, in stone, portrayed a lyon, verie workmanly wrought, and therefore called the lyon towre. In the easte syde of the great hall, was an ile set owt, with pyllers, which yet standeth. The doungion is in the northe parte of the scyte of the sayd Castell, set upon a little mount highyer than the rest of the cowrte; steppes of a greas before ye enter to yt: and the same ys buyld as a foure square, and owt of every square one towre; all which be so quarterly squared together, that in the syght every parte appeareth five towres, very finely wrought of mason-work: and in the same conteyned as well a fayre hall, kytchinge, and all other houses of offices, verie fare and apteley placed, as also great chambre, chapel, and lodgings for the Lord and his trayn. The castell is envyroned on thre partes with the sayd ryver; and of the northe parte, in an angle within the sayd water is situate a towne called the borough of Warkworth, and the parish church, &c.’

Warkworth was formerly the barony of Roger Fitz Richard, who held it by the service of one Knight's fee, of the grant of King Henry II. He married Eleanor, one of the daughters and coheiresses of Henry de Essex, Baron of Raleigh and Clavering. [*] It continued in this family for several successive generations. John, in obedience to King Edward I. by his command, took upon him the surname of Clavering. In consideration of certain grants of lands in the southern counties, he made over to King Edward II. the reversion in fee of his barony and castle of Warkworth, [†] provided he should die without issue male. This reversion King Edward III. granted to Henry Lord Percy, from whom these possessions have descended to the present Duke of Northumberland.

The church is a handsome building, ornamented with a spire, the inside very neat. There is a monument with the recumbent effigy of a Knight Templar, with an inscription intimating that the personage there interred was Sir Hugh de Morwick, who gave the common to the town of Warkworth.

In a window of one of the ailes, is painted the figures of St. Hilda and an attendant female.

Leland says, Warkworth was much resorted to by Merchants. At present there is no navigation on the Coquet, though it is said to be practicable to bring up small craft to the bridge. The town is entitled to a weekly market on Thursday, and three annual fairs on the Thursdays preceding St. George's, St. Lawrence's, and St. Martin's days.

We passed up the river Coquet about three quarters of a mile to the

Notes

†

Werkworthe Castell stondythe on the southe syde of Coquet watar. It is well maynteyned and is large. It longed to the Erle of Northomberland. It stondithe on a highe hille, the which for the more parte is includyd with the ryver, and is about a mile from these. Ther is a prety towne, and at the towne ende is a stone bridge with a towne on it. Beyond the bridge is Banborowshire.

Lel. Itin. v. 7. p. 76.

↵

*

John Fitz Robert, in 7 King Henry III. obtained licence that the market which had been usually kept upon the Sunday at his manor of Werkworth, should be held upon the Wednesday every week.

Dugd. Baron. v. 1. p. 107.

↵

*

The name of Clavering is derived from the barony of Clavering in Essex.

By the testa de Nevill it appears, that Robert, the son of Roger, held of the King in capite, by the service of one Knight's fee, the barony of Warkworth, with its appurtenances. And Roger, the son of Richard, held the same barony by like service from the time of King Henry, the father of King John, who gave it to him in fee.

John de Clavering was summoned to parliamant as Baron Warkworth and Clavering, 25th King Edward I. 3d King Edward III. and the 6th King Edward III.

↵

†
And also Rothbury, Corbridge, and Newburn, which by a reversionary grant to Henry Lord Percy, now are become part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland.
↵

HERMITAGE.

The approach is kept in neat order, but still retains its original form; a narrow walk on the brink of the river, which at this place flows without any troubled current, leads to the door of the Hermitage;
[*]
lofty perpendicular rocks on the other hand confining the walk to about the width of four feet. From the summit of the cliffs a grove of oaks is suspended, giving a solemn shade; and at their feet issues a spring of the purest water, which formerly supplied the Recluse. The steps, vestibule, and chief apartments of the Hermitage, are hewn out of the bosom of a free-stone rock, whose outside face is about 20 feet high, embowered with stately trees, which impend from the top of the precipice and fissures of the cliffs. One lower and outward apartment is of masonry. We entered into this lower apartment by a passage of three paces, the doorway marked with the remains of bolts and iron hinges: it is built up against the side of the rock, about 18 feet square, and appears to have been the kitchen or principal dwelling, having a range or fire-place six feet wide. On the south side of this apartment, opposite to our entrance, is a doorway leading to an outward seat formed in the rock, and opening upon the walk on the river's brink. On this side of the room are two windows, which bear the marks of iron-grating, and also a closet. By holes cut in the rock, it seems as if timbers had been lodged therein for the flooring of an upper chamber. This structure is built of ashler-work, and appeared to us of much more modern date than the cells formed in the rock. Passing from this outward building the way we entered, we ascended by 17 steps to a little vestibule, with a seat on each side capable of holding one person only. Above the inner doorway some letters appear, the remains of a phrase which may be thus rendered in English: "My tears have been my food day and night." From thence we entered the principal apartment or chapel, about 18 feet in length, and not more than seven feet and an half wide, and of the same height. Two pilasters of semi-hexagonal form project from the opposite walls in the center, and one from each corner, from whence spring the intersecting groins of the roof, the joinings ornamented with roses. The pilasters have plain capitals and bases, in the old Gothic stile. All the work is chiselled, and done with mechanic exactness and regularity: the wall or outside rock as you enter is left so thick, as to admit the vestibule before described. At the east end is an altar, formed cross the whole apartment, ascended by two steps; the upper plane edged with a moulding. In the center of the wall behind is a nich for a crucifix or image, with the remains of a glory. On the

right hand as you approach the altar, cut out of the thickness of the wall, is a nich or cavity, like those often described in the progress of this work, left in the walls of the ailes of churches; within which there is represented a table monument (no chink or cavity appearing, to give a supposition that it is hollowed to receive any human remains) with a recumbent female figure,[*] the hands and arms of which appear to have been elivated. Light is admitted by two small windows behind. On the pillar which divides the windows, are the remains of some sculpture, supposed by many to be that of an hovering cherub; but with the utmost attention, and a strong desire to coincide with others, I could not see any such figure, even with an eye prejudiced by such prepossessions:[†] if it has ever been the representation of any figure, and now wasted by the weather beating through the windows, I conceive it was that of a child standing in a weeping attitude over the recumbent effigies. At the foot of the recumbent effigies is a bason cut for holy water, and the feet of the effigies rest against an animal (most likely a dog, as an emblem of fidelity) as is usual on monuments of the like form. I pay great deference to the opinions of other visitants, but cannot agree with the author of the poem, that this is a bull's head, or the usual place for crests: on the contrary, according to the virtues of the deceased, ancient tombs are decorated with an animal at the foot of the effigies, as a lion for fortitude, a dog for fidelity, &c. and this same figure appeared to me no other than that of a crouching dog; as is to be seen on multitudes of ancient tombs. The usual place of the crest on tombs, is under the head of the effigies. The examples in the northern counties are most likely to point out to us the prevailing fashion. The bull's head is in that position on the tombs of the family of Nevils, in Brancepeth and Staindrop churches, in the county of Durham; and a dog lays at the feet. The same on the fine tomb of Ogle, in Bothal church, and also the Ram's head on the elegant tomb of Gray, at Chillingham, with many other instances in Northumberland. Under the head of the effigies no crest appears; a double cushion is the support. By length of time, and the weather beating through the windows, the figures are greatly injured. In a nich at the foot of the monument, and cut in the wall, is the figure of an Hermit on his knees, resting his head on his right hand, and his left hand placed on his bosom, as in a lamenting or pensive posture. The author of the poem has racked invention to conceive a cause for our Hermit's vow of severity and retirement.

The cliff, the vault, but chief the tomb,

Attract the wand'ring pair;

Eager they ask what hapless dame

Lies sculptur'd here so fair?

The Hermit sigh'd, the Hermit wept,

For sorrow scarce could speak;

At length he wip'd the trickling tears,

That all bedew'd his cheek.

Alas! my children, human life

Is but a vale of woe;

And very mournful is the tale

Which you so fain would know.

Young Lord, thy grandsire had a friend,

In days of youthful fame;

Yon distant hills were his domains;

Sir Bertram [*] was his name.

Where e'er the noble Percy fought,

His friend was at his side;

And many a skirmish with the Scots

Their early valour try'd.

Fair Widdrington the maiden's name,

Yon tow'r's her dwelling-place;

Her sire an old Northumbrian chief,

Devoted to thy race.

Many a Lord and many a Knight

To this fair damsel came;

But Bertram was her only choice,

For him she felt a flame.

Lord Percy pleaded for his friend,

Her father soon consents;

None but the beauteous maid herself

His wishes now prevents.

* * * * * * * *

When lo a damsel young and fair

Stepp'd forward thro' the hall.

She Bertram courteously addrest,

And kneeling on her knee,

Sir Knight, the Lady of thy love

Hath sent this gift to thee.

Then forth she drew a glittering helm,

Well plated many a fold;

The casque was wrought of temper'd steel,

The crest of burnish'd gold.

Sir Knight, thy Lady sends thee this,

And yields to be thy bride,

When thou hast prov'd this maiden gift,

Where sharpest blows are try'd.

Young Bertram took the shining helm,

And thrice he kiss'd the same;

Trust me I'll prove this precious casque

With deeds of noblest fame.

Lord Percy and his Barons bold,

Then fix'd upon a day,

To scour the Marches, late opprest,

And Scottish wrongs repay.

* * * * * * * *

Now closing fast on every side,

They hem Sir Bertram round;

But dauntless he repels their rage,

And deals forth many a wound.

The vigour of his single arm

Had well nigh won the field,

When ponderous fell a Scottish ax,

And clove his lifted shield.

Another blow his temples took,

And reft his helm in twain;

That beauteous helm, his Lady's gift:

His blood bedew'd the plain.

Lord Percy saw his champion fall,

Amid the unequal fight:

And now my noble friends, he said,

Let's save this gallant Knight.

Then rushing in, with stretch'd out shield,

He o'er the warrior hung,

As some fierce eagle spreads her wing,

To guard her callow young.

* * * * * * * *

All pale, extended on their shields,

And welt'ring in his gore,

Lord Percy's Knights their bleeding friend

To Wark's fair castle bore.

* * * * * * * *

All day o'er moss and moor they rode,

By many a lonely tow'r,

And 'twas the dewfall of the night

Ere they drew near her bow'r.

* * * * * * * *

Six days, young Knight, are past and gone,

Since she set out to thee;

And sure, if no sad harm had happ'd,

Long since thou wouldst her see.

For when she heard thy grievous chance,

She tore her hair, and cry'd,

Alas! I've slain the comeliest Knight,

All thro' my folly and pride.

* * * * * * * *

Then mounted she her milk-white steed,

One morn at break of day,

And two tall yeomen went with her,

To guard her on the way.

Sad terror smote Sir Bertram's heart,

And grief o'erwhelm'd his mind;

Trust me, said he, I ne'er will rest,

Till I my Lady find.

* * * * * * * *

Now, brother, we'll our ways divide,

O'er Scottish hills to range;

Do thou go north, and I'll go west,

And all our dress we'll change.

* * * * * * * *

One day, as he sate under a thorn,

All sunk in deep despair,

An aged Pilgrim pass'd him by,

Who mark'd his face of care.

* * * * * * * *

Cheer up, my son, perchance (he said)

Some tidings I may bear;

For oft when human hopes have fail'd,

Then heav'nly comfort's near.

Behind yon hills, so steep and high,

Down in a lowly glen,

There stands a castle, fair and strong,

Far from th' abode of men.

As late I chanc'd to crave an alms,

About this evening hour,

Methought I heard a Lady's voice,

Lamenting in the tower.

* * * * * * *

These tidings caught Sir Bertram's ear,

He thank'd him for his tale,

And soon he hasted o'er the hills,

And soon he reach'd the vale.

* * * * * * * *

All day he sits beside the gate,

And pipes both loud and clear;

All night he watches round the walls,

In hopes his love to hear.

The first night, as he silent watch'd,

All at the midnight hour,

He plainly heard his Lady's voice,

Lamenting in the tower.

The second night, the moon shone clear,

And gilt the spangled dew,

He saw his Lady thro' the grate,

But 'twas a transient view.

The third night, wearied out, he slept

Till near the morning tide,

When starting up he seiz'd his sword,

And to the castle hey'd.

When lo he saw a ladder of ropes

Depending from the wall;

And o'er the moat was newly laid

A poplar, strong and tall.

And soon he saw his love descend,

Wrapt in a tartan plaid;

Assisted by a sturdy youth,

In Highland garb then clad.

Amaz'd, confounded at the sight,

He lay unseen and still,

And soon he saw them cross the stream,

And mount the neighbouring hill.

Unknown, unheard of all within,

The youthful couple fly;

But what can 'scape the lover's ken,

Or shun his piercing eye?

With silent step he follows close

Behind the flying pair,

And saw her hang upon his arm,

With fond familiar air.

Thanks, gentle youth, she often said;

My thanks thou well hast won;

For me what wiles hast thou contriv'd;

For me what dangers run?

And ever shall my grateful heart

Thy services repay:

Sir Bertram could not further hear,

But cry'd, Vile traitor, stay!

Vile traitor, yield that Lady up!

And quick his sword he drew:

The stranger turn'd in sudden rage,

And at Sir Bertram flew.

With mortal hate their vigorous arms

Gave many a vengeful blow;

But Bertram's stronger hand prevail'd,

And laid the stranger low.

Die, traitor, die!—a dreadful thrust

Attends each furious word:

Ah! then fair Isabel knew his voice,

And rush'd beneath his sword.

O stop, she cry'd; O stop thy arm!

Thou dost thy brother slay!

And here the Hermit paus'd and wept.

His tongue no more could say.

At length he cry'd, Go lovely pair:

How shall I tell the rest!

Ere I could stop my piercing sword,

It fell, and stabb'd her breast.

Wert thou thyself that hapless youth?

Ah cruel fate! they said:

The Hermit wept, and so did they;

They sigh'd—he hung his head.

* * * * * * *

My brother, alas! spake never more,

His precious life was flown;

She kindly strove to sooth my pain,

Regardless of her own.

* * * * * * *

Thus pouring comfort on my soul,

Even with her latest breath,

She gave one parting fond embrace,

And clos'd her eyes in death.

* * * * * * * *

For me, I loath'd my wretched life,

And long to end it thought;

Till time and books and holy men

Had better counsels taught.

They rais'd my heart to that pure source,

Whence heav'nly comfort flows;

She taught me to despise the world,

And calmly bear its woes.

No more the slave of human pride,

Vain hope and sordid care;

I meekly vow'd to spend my life

In penitence and pray'r.

The bold Sir Bertram now no more

Impetuous, haughty, wild;

But poor and humble Benedict,

Now lowly, patient, mild.

My lands I gave to feed the poor,

And sacred altars raise;

And here a lonely Anchorite

I came to end my days.

This sweet sequester'd vale I chose,

These rocks and hanging grove;

For oft beside that murmuring stream

My love was wont to rove.

My noble friend approv'd my choice,

This bless'd retreat he gave;

And here I carv'd her beauteous form,

And scoop'd this hollow cave.

Full fifty winters, all forlorn,

My life I've linger'd here;

And daily o'er this sculptur'd Saint

I drop the pensive tear.

In Mr Grose's account of this Hermitage, it is alledged, that it was universally believed the first Hermit enjoined himself this life of pennance and severity, in contrition for the murder of his own brother. I must say, I was struck with an idea on my first entrance, which grew upon me whilst I remained in these sacred vaults, and drew on a train of pensive thoughts: There needed nothing barbarous, savage, or murderous to induce a man to such a life—disappointed love was sufficient of itself to incite it: Conceive the personage sculptured upon the tomb or monument, to be the devoted bride or beloved wife of the Recluse, cut off in the prime of life by some common casualty, perhaps after a short life of harmony and love in the marriage state, in the instant of bringing into the world the issue of an happy intercourse, and the heir of an opulent race—this was cause sufficient. Under such circumstances, we should entertain more feelings for the tender sorrows and disappointed love of the Hermit, than we can experience when we see him stained with bloody crimes, arising from wrath, revenge, rashness, or indiscretion—mad with jealousy, even to such a blindness, that he could not know his own brother, though gone forth in disguise at his instance on the same errand with himself. I own my ideas furnished me with a very different picture of the Hermit's woes—I stood over the monument with an eye flooded in tears, and a mind distressed by the tenderest touches of commiseration. After musing for some time, I imagined I could hear the distressed inhabitant exclaim: ‘In the dust rests for ever the beloved remains of the best of women—united to me by love and wedloc—the hopes of my youth, the joy of my desire, and the felicity of my possession; with her I had flattered my mind, life would pass away serenely, and the evening of the human day advance in peace: but alas! when my happiness was at its height, she was snatched from me, and forlornness beset my steps.’

But to return to my description: The west end of the chapel is lighted by a window formed of four conjoining circles: above the inner door of the vestibule is a shield, bearing the remains of some arms; by some taken to be the figure of a gauntlet; but as it is generally believed one of the Bertrams formed this hermitage, so it is probable this shield (the remains of which seem to correspond therewith) bore the Bertrams' arms, Or, an orl, azure.[*]

On the left hand of the altar, a window is formed in the partition of the apartments, divided by two mullions, the summit of each light or division ornamented with work formed of sections of circles, like those seen in cathedrals of the tenth century. From the chapel we entered an inner apartment, by a neat door-case, over which is sculptured a shield, with the crucifixion and several instruments of torture. At the east end of this inner apartment, is an altar like that in the chapel, lighted by the last-described window, and through which the person kneeling at the inner altar, could view the cenotaph in the chapel: this apartment is about five feet wide and nine paces in length: here is also a nich or bason for holy water. On the northern side of this inner chamber, a recess is cut in the rock, of size sufficient to hold the couch of a person of middling stature. I have seen several of the like form, alcoved above, and a sole about two feet above the level of the floor to hold the matrass and bedding of the Recluse. This recess is so placed, that whilst I sat therein to make my notes, by a nich cut slantwise in the partition wall which separates the two apartments, I had a view of the cenotaph and effigies thereon. The nich seemed calculated for this very purpose; being cut through the wall assant, it could not be conceived intended to convey the light. By some it has been imagined to be designed for confession, but it is my sentiment that the Hermit was priest and penitent in one; and that he had devised those apertures, that the effigies should be constantly in his sight. In this inner apartment, is a small closet cut in the side wall to the north: from this interior chamber is a doorway leading to an open gallery, having a prospect up the river; but by the falling of some of the rock above, this part is greatly damaged. It is said by old people, that the roof was supported by a fine pillar, and formed a small piazza cloister or open gallery—such galleries are seen in very ancient mansions, in the centre of the front: one is yet perfect in the remains of Bradley Hall, in the county of Durham, the mansion of the eldest branch of the family of Bowes, built, as it is presumed, soon after the conquest.

From these cells, through a neat doorway, there are winding stairs cut in the rock, leading to its summit, supposed to conduct to the Hermit's olatory or garden. A channel is ingeniously formed on the steps to carry off the water.

It seems evident that the original hermitage consisted of no more than the apartments hewn in the rock, the inner one being the dwelling-place, and the little cloister the summer seat, facing westward, and commanding a beautiful view up the river Coquet, which here forms a fine curve, in extent near half a mile, on this side bordered by rocks, on the other by cultivated lands, of an easy inclination; on the extremity stands a pretty farmhold, to terminate the sequestered rural prospect. The style of architecture adopted in this hermitage is of the Saxon Gothic, which proves its antiquity. In the postscript to the poem of the Hermit of Warkworth, the author asserts, ‘that the memory of the first Hermit was held in such regard and veneration by the Percy family, that they afterwards maintained a chantry priest, to reside in the hermitage and celebrate mass in the chapel; whose allowance, uncommonly liberal and munificent, was continued down to the dissolution of the monasteries; and then the whole salary, together with the hermitage and all its dependencies, reverted back to the family; having never been endowed in mortmain. On this account we have no record which fixes the date of the foundation, or gives any particular account of the first Hermit.’ The patent is extant, which was granted to the last Hermit in 1532, by the sixth Earl of Northumberland.[*] The author of the poem in this postscript adds,
After the perusal of the above patent, it will perhaps be needless to caution the reader against a mistake some have fallen into, of confounding the hermitage near Warkworth, with a chantry founded within the town itself, by Nicholas de Farnham, Bishop of Durham, in the reign of King Henry III. who appropriated the church of Branxton for the maintenance there of two Benedictine Monks from Durham. That small monastic foundation is indeed called a cell by Bishop Tanner; but he must be very ignorant, who supposes that by the word cell, is necessary to be understood a hermitage; whereas it was commonly applied to any small conventual establishment, which was dependant on another. As to the chapel belonging to this endowment of Bishop Farnham, it is mentioned as in ruins in several old surveys of Queen Elizabeth's time; and its scite not far from Warkworth church, is still remembered.[*] But that there was never more than one priest maintained, at one and the same time, within the hermitage, is plainly proved, (if any further proof be wanting) by the following extract from a survey of Warkworth, made in the year 1567, viz. Ther is in the parke also one howse hewyn within one cragge, which is called the harmitage chapel: in the same ther haith bene one preast keaped, which did such godlye services as that tyme was used and celebrated. The mantion howse ys nowe in decaye: the closes that apperteined to the said chantrie is occupied to his Lordships use.

It appears to me, that the Monks who came here in an age in which the severities of a religious life were relaxing, founded the good warm kitchen of mason-work at the foot of the rock, adapted to indulgencies unknown to the original inhabitant. The form of the doors and windows are of a much more modern mode than those above; the windows of the hermitage have had no iron-grating.

After wandering in this sweet sequestered vale, so singularly calculated for contemplation, and adapted to a mind fond of serious reflections, till the decline of day warned us of the necessity of our departure, we returned to Warkworth, from whence we had a view of

Notes

*
The Poem of the Hermit of Warkworth, to which I shall have frequent occasion to resort in the following description, opens thus:

Dark was the night, and wild the storm,

And loud the torrents roar,

And loud the sea was heard to dash

Against the distant shore.

Musing on man's weak hapless state

The lonely Hermit lay;

When lo! he heard a female voice

Lament in sore dismay.

With hospitable haste he rose,

And wak'd his sleeping fire.

And snatching up a lighted brand,

Forth hied the reverend fire.

This short extract will shew the Poet's mode of introductions he then leads on the personages to whom the Hermit relates his tale.

Ah, seldom had their host, I ween,

Beheld so sweet a pair:

The youth was tall, with manly bloom,

She slender, soft, and fair.

* * * * * *

First tell me father, said the youth,

(Nor blame mine eager tongue)

What town is here? what lands are these?

And to what Lord belong?

Alas! my son, the Hermit said,

Why do I live to say,

The rightful Lord of these domains

Is banished far away.

Ten winters now have shed their snows,

On this my lowly hall,

Since valiant Hotspur (so the north

Our youthful Lord did call)

Against fourth Henry Bolingbrook,

Led up his northern powers,

And stoutly fighting lost his life,

Near proud Salopia's towers.

One son he left, a lovely boy,

His country's hope and heir;

And oh! to save him from his foes,

It was his grandsire's care.

In Scotland safe he plac'd the child,

Beyond the reach of strife,

Nor long before the brave old Earl

At Bramham lost his life.

And now the Percy name, so long

Our northern pride and boast,

Lies hid, alas, beneath a cloud,

Their honours rest and lost.

No chieftain of that noble house

Now leads our youth to arms;

The bordering Scots despoil our fields,

And ravage all our farms.

Their halls and castles once so fair,

Now moulder in decay;

Proud strangers now usurp their lands,

And bear their wealth away.

Not far from hence, where yon full stream

Runs winding down the Lea,

Fair Warkworth lifts her lofty towers,

And overlooks the sea.

The towers, alas, now stand forlorn,

With noisome weads oerspread,

Where feasted Lords, and courtly dames,

And where the poor were fed.

Meantime far off, mid Scottish hills,

The Percy lives unknown;

On strangers bounty he depends,

And may not claim his own.

O might I with these aged eyes

But live to see him here;

The should my soul depart in bliss,

He said, and dropt a tear.

And is the Percy still so lov'd

Of all his friends and thee;

Then bless me father, said the youth,

For I, thy guest, am he.

Silent he gaz'd, then turn'd aside

To wipe the tears he shed;

And lifting up his hands and eyes,

Pour'd blessings on his head.

* * * * * *

But who may this young lady be,

That is so wond'rous fair.

* * * * * *

Then up and down in hunters garb,

I wander'd as in chase,

'Till in the noble Nevill's house

*Raby Castle.

I gain'd a hunter's place.

Some time with him I liv'd unknown,

Till I'd the hap so rare.

To please this young and gentle dame,

That Baron's daughter fair.

* * * * * *

This evening as the night drew on,

Fearing we were pursu'd,

We turn'd adown the right hand path,

And gain'd this lonely wood.

Then lighting from our weary steeds,

To shun the pelting shower.

We met thy kind conducting hand,

And reach'd this friendly bower.

↵

*
Mr Wallis's description is in the following words. ‘In the fole of a window, at the south end of the altar, is the effigies of the blessed Virgin, sculptured in stone, recumbent; another of the child Jesus on her right hand, standing, his left rested upon her shoulder; at her feet, in a nich in the wall, is the effigies of an Hermit, in the attitude of prayer.’ Mr Wallis is in an error here, for the female recumbent figure, having its head towards the east, lays with the right hand to the chapel: if any figure has stood on the side of the effigies, it must have been against the pillar which divides the windows. There is an absurdity in the idea of the boy Jesus standing over the tomb of the Virgin Mary, that need not be dwelt upon.
↵

†

And now attended by their host,

The hermitage they view'd;

Deep hewn within a craggy cliff,

And overhung with wood.

And near a flight of shapely steps,

All cut with nicest skill;

And piercing thro' a stony arch,

Ran winding up the hill.

There deck'd with many a flower and herb,

His little garden stands;

With fruitful trees in shady rows,

All planted by his hands.

Then scoop'd within the solid rock,

Three sacred vaults he shews;

The chief a chapel neatly arch'd,

On branching columns rose.

Each proper ornament was there

That should a chapel grace;

The latice for confession fram'd,

And holy water vase.

O'er either door a sacred text

Invites to godly fear;

And in a little 'scutcheon hung

The cross, and crown, and spear.

Up to the altar's ample breadth

Two easy steps ascend;

And near a glimmering solemn light

Two well-wrought windows lend.

Beside the altar rose a tomb,

All in the living stone,

On which a young and beauteous maid

In goodly sculpture shone.

A kneeling angel, fairly carv'd,

Lean'd hovering o'er her breast;

A weeping warrior at her feet,

And near to these her crest.[*]

↵

*
This is a bull's head, the crest of the Widdrington family. All the figures, &c. here described are still visible, only somewhat effaced with length of time.
↵

*

From the advertisement to the Poem.

About a mile from the castle, in a deep romantic valley, are the remains of a hermitage; of which the chapel is still entire. This is hollowed with great elegance, in a cliff near the river; as are also two adjoining apartments, which probably served for the sacristy and vestry, or were appropriated to some other sacred uses: for the former of these, which runs parallel with the chapel, appears to have had an alter in it, at which mass was occasionly celebrated, as well as in the chapel itself.

Each of these apartments is extremely small; for that which was the principal chapel does not in length exceed 18 feet, nor is more than 7½ feet in breadth and height: it is, however, very beautifully designed and executed, in the solid rock; and has all the decorations of a compleat Gothic church or cathedral in miniature.

But what principally distinguishes the chapel, is a small tomb or monument on the south side of the altar; on the top of which lies a female figure, extended in the manner that effigies are usually exhibited praying on ancient tombs. This figure, which is very delicately designed, some have ignorantly called an image of the Virgin Mary, though it has not the least resemblance to the manner in which she is represented in the Romish churches; who is usually erect, as the object of adoration, and never in a prostrate or recumbent posture. Indeed the real image of the blessed Virgin probably stood in a small nich, still visible behind the altar: whereas the figure of a bull's head, which is rudely carved at this lady's feet, the usual place for the crest in old monuments, plainly proves her to have been a very different personage.

About the tomb are several other figures, which, as well as the principal one above mentioned, are cut in the natural rock, in the same manner as the little chapel itself, with all its ornaments, and the two adjoining apartments. What slight traditions are scattered through the country, concerning the origin and foundation of this hermitage, tomb, &c. are delivered to the reader in the following rhimes.

It is universally agreed, that the founder was one of the Bertram family, which had once considerable possessions in Northumberland, and were anciently Lords of Bothal castle, situate about ten miles from Warkworth. He has been thought to be the same Bertram that endowed Brinkburn Priory, and built Brenkshaw chapel; which both stand in the same winding valley, higher up the river.

But Brinkburn Priory was founded in the reign of King Henry I. whereas the form of the Gothick windows in this chapel, especially of those near the altar, is found rather to resemble the stile of architecture that prevailed about the reign of King Edward III. and indeed that the sculpture in this chapel cannot be much older, appears from the crest which is placed at the lady's feet on the tomb; for Camden informs us, that armorial crests did not become hereditary till about the reign of King Edward II.

↵

*
The Bertrams were an ancient family in this country: they held great possessions under the savour of William the Conqueror, with whom Sir Richard Bertram; a Norman Knight, came over to England. He had in marriage, as a royal ward, Sibel, the daughter and heiress of the Mitford family. Sir William his son obtained his possessions of Mitford to be created a Barony by King Henry I. He married Alice the daughter of Sir William Merley, by whom he had issue two sons. This Sir William was, or Osbertus Colutarius, under his grant, the founder of Brinkburn Priony, afterwards described.
↵

*
Henry Earl of Northumberland, &c. Knowe you that, &c. Have geven & graunted, and by these presentes do gyve & graunte unto the said Sir George (Lancastre) myn armytage, belded in a rock of stone, within my parke of Warkworth, in, &c. in the honour of the blessed Trynete, with a yerely stipende of twenty merks by yet (now 100l.) from the feast of Seint Michell tharchangell last past, afore the date herof yerly duryng the naturall lyve of the said Sir George. & also I the said Erle have geven and graunted, &c. unto the said Sir George Lancaster, the occupation of one little gresground of myn called Cony garth, nygh adjoynynge the said Harmytage, only to his only use & proufit, wynter & sumer, durynge the said terme: the garden & orteyard belongyng the said armytage; the gate & pasture of twelf kye & a bull, with their calves s
•
kyng; and two horses goyng & beying within my said parke of Warkworth, wynter and somer. One draught of fishe every fondaie in the yere[*] to be drawn fornenst the said armytage, called the Trynete draught: and twenty lods of fyre wode to be taken of my wodds, called Shilbotell wode, during the said terme. The said stipend of XX merks by yere to be taken & perceived yerly of the rent & ferme of my fishing of Warkworth, by th

•

ands of the fermour or fenmours of the same for the tyme beynge yerly, at the times ther used and accustomed, by evyn portions. In wytnes whereof to the
•
my letters patentes, I the said Erle have set the seal of myn armes: Yeven undre my sygnet, at my Castell of Warworth, the third daye of December, in the XXIIIth yer of the reigne of our Sovereygn Lorde Kyng Henry the Eight."
↵

*
A great Salmon Fishery.
↵

*

A Cell of two Benedictine Monks from Durham, for whose maintenance here Nicholas de Farnham, Bishop of Durham, who died A. D. 1257. appropriated the church of Brankeston, which was confirmed by Walter de Kirkham, his successor.

Vide Angl. Sacr. Tom. 1. p. 738.

Tanner.

↵

COQUET ISLAND,

little more than a mile from the main land, and about a mile in circumference. Here are the remains of a Cell of Benedictine Monks, which was subordinate to Tynemouth Priory. After the dissolution, it was granted to the Earl of Warwick,[*] and is now part of the possessions of the Duke of Northumberland. This is a much more comfortable recess than St. Cuthbert's on the Farn Island: rabbits abound here, and pit coal was wrought before Leland's time. There is nothing memorable in history relative to this place, but its capture by the Scots in the reign of King Charles I. when it was garrisoned with 200 men, and defended with seven pieces of ordnance.

We took our rout to

Notes

*

This little island is said by Bede, to be "Monachorum coetibus insignis." in St. Cuthbert's time, about A. D. 680. Here was, till the dissolution, a small house of Benedictine Monks, Cell to Tinmouth, as parcell of which priory, 4 Edward VI. this island was granted to John Earl of Warwick.

Tanner.

Cuthbertus Coquedam venit, ubi Aelfledam Ecgfridi regis sororem, convenit.

Qui, ascensa cum fratribus navi, venit ad Insulam, quae Coquedi flu. ostio praejacens, ab codem accepit cognomen, & ipsa monachorum coetibus insignis.

Bede. Lel. Col. vol. 2. p. 158.

Tinemuthe.

Henricos, heremita Coketensis Insulae, ibidem sepultus.

Lel. Col. v. 3. p. 43.

↵

FELTON,

a village on the banks of Coquet. The scenes near this place are romantic and beautiful; fine rocks and hanging woods form the margin of the winding river, whilst on every side lies a rich cultivated country. At this place the Barons of Northumberland, Lord Eustace being one, did homage to Alexander King of Scotland: to chastise which defection, King John levied a great army, and in 1216, marching northward, made horrid devastations: Felton was reduced to ashes.

This was one of the dependent manors of the barony of Mitford, and passed through the successive possessions of Bertrams, Pembrokes, Athols, Percys, Scropes, and Lysles, and afterwards of the Widdringtons, from whom the present owner, Mr Riddell, derives his title, in right of his Lady. The church stands on the southern side of the river, and is dedicated to St. Michael. Mr Riddell has a seat-house at the west end of the village.
[*]

Nigh this place was the Priory of Gyson or Gisness, founded by Richard Tyson. The Abbey of Alnwick had Gyson or Gisness annexed to it by Eustace Fitz John, to hold in pure alms with all its privileges and endowments, a moiety of the tithes, and two bovates of land at Gyson, the church of Halge, &c.[†]

We visited the ruins of

Notes

*

Over the door of the Vicarage House is the following inscription.

A

1683

Has Aedes

Posuit

Robertus Henderson

Trinitatis Colleg. Cantab.

Tempore Barrowni, tempore Newtoni

Socius:

Hujus et ecclesiae

Non indignus Vicarius.

Pietatis ergo posuit

Hoc patri filius testimonium

1758.

↵

†
In the Lincoln Taxation amongst the Temporalities, there is "Priorissa de Gwysnes in archidiaconatu Northumbriae, LXX l. IVd. And cart. 35. Edward I. n. 35. Rex confirmat abbati et conventui de Alnwico communiam in tota mora et pastura de Edelingham, ad omnia averia sua, tam de domo de Alnwyk et grangiis suis, quam de domo de Gysnes," but more of this house I cannot learn.
↵

BRINKBURN PRIORY,

situated in a deep vale, on a small peninsula formed by the river Coquet, overlooked by steep hills and craggy rocks on every hand; in so much, that on our approach by the ancient causeway, the first view we had of it, within the distance of 150 yards, was from such an eminence, and so immediately above it, that we looked into the interior parts of the ruins. This is the most melancholy and deep solitude, chosen for a religious edifice, I ever yet visited.[*]

The building is in the cathedral form; the body is 22 yards in length and 13 breadth, without much ornament, and composed of a durable stone. The walls are almost entire; the great tower is very perfect: there are some remains of the dormitory, now converted into a cellar. Mr Grose observes, that ‘these ruins exhibit one among the many instances wherein circular and pointed arches occur in the same building, and that in parts manifestly constructed at the same time; which shews, that about the period of its erection, there was a kind of struggle between the ancient mode or Saxon, and what is called Gothic architecture; in which neither style then thoroughly prevailed. The upper range of windows in this church are all circular; those immediately under them are pointed. Two doors, one on the north, the other on the south, have circular arches, (of various members, falling back, supported on pilasters) richly adorned with variety of Saxon ornaments, particularly that on the north, which has among others the heads of animals. These are generally deemed the most ancient decorations of that style. The great tower has four pointed arches, and others of the same shape are supported by massy octagonal pillars in the body of the church. There have been burials here as late as the year 1745. At the east end, and in the north and south crosses, were chapels; in one of which are divers fragments of coffins and human bones. On the whole, though this building, except about the doors, is remarkably plain, it has a sober and solemn majesty, not always found in buildings more highly decorated. Part of this, perhaps, it may owe to its romantic situation, which is the most proper in the world for retirement and meditation. Near the southwest angle of the church is a house, seemingly built out of the offices of the monastery.’ There are no monuments or inscriptions that we could discover: the whole of the little plain on this peninsula is occupied by the church and the priory, the latter now converted into a farm-house and garden.

This priory was founded by Osbertus Colutarius, under the grant of Sir William Bertram, for Black Canons, or Canons regular of St. Austin, in the reign of King Henry I. and by him and his heir richly endowed.[*] The church was dedicated to St. Peter. The Monks were brought from the monastery of De Insula: William Hogeston was the last Prior. In the year 1477, on the 20th September, being the fourth year of the pontificate of William Dudley, LXVIs. viijd. was paid to the Prior of Brinkburn, the Bishop's Suffragan, proregardo suo.[†] At the time of suppression of religious houses there were ten Canons here, and the revenue was estimated by Dugdale at 68l. 19s. 1d. and by Speed at 77l. In the fourth year of King Edward the Sixth's reign, it was granted to the Earl of Warwick, but soon after came to the Fenwicks of Fenwick Tower; the last male branch of which family was George Fenwick,
[‡]
Esq whose daughter and heir Elizabeth married Roger Fenwick of Stanton, Esq one of her descendants, William Fenwick of Bywell, Esq is the present proprietor.[*]

Mr Wallis says (but from what authority I know not) that the bell of this church was removed to the cathedral at Durham.

Ralph Lord Graystock, at the instance of Johanna his mother, gave the impropriation and advowson of Long Horsley to this priory, in the 8th year of the reign of King Richard II. The convent in return agreed, that she and her heirs, Lords of Morpeth, for ever should have the nomination of one Canon there: and Allan son of John de Prestwick was the first nominee under that power.

We passed by

Notes

*

A Priory of Black Canons, founded temp. Henry I. by Osbertus Colutarius, upon a piece of ground which was given him by William Bertram. This house was under the patronage of St Peter; about the time of the dissolutie consisted of 10 religious, who had the yearly income of 68l. 19s. 1d. Dugd. 77l. Speed. It was granted to John Earl of Warwick, 4 Edward VI.

Vide in Mon. Angl. Tom. 2. Cartas Will Bertram primi advoc. Will de Guaren com Northumbriae, pro salina apud Werkworth; et Henrici com. Northumb. pro eadem: Cart 43 Henry III. pro cix acris terrae in Evenewode, commun socialum in Turbaria de Glantley, vasto de Framelington, &c.

Tanner.

Richardus

Was witness to H. Pudsey's confirmation of certain donations to the Nuns of Newcastle. Will Hogestone was the last Prior.

An. 1553. Here remained in charge 13s. 4d. in annuities.

Edward Hoton and Edward Long. Canonici Regulares Eccl. de domo conventual de Brenkeburne accoliti Ord. S. Augustini die Sabbi qua cantatur ossic: Misse scitientes Mar. X. 1496.

R. Fox, p. 12.

Ricus Epus 27. d. Feb. 1500 concessit Edw. Hoton, Edw. Long, Rob. Watson, & Ryco Lyghton can. Reg. Ecclie covent de Brenkeborn Lr. demissor. ad oes tam minores qui Majores etia Presbyteratq. ord. &c.

R. Fox, p. 36.

Will Gray Can. regularis domus Conventul de B. ordinis Sci Ang. Pbr ordinat pennult Mar. 1499.

R. Fox, p. 20.

Matheus Swan ad titlm monij. de B. ord Pbr. Mar. 8. 1532

Tunstal, p. 11.

Oswald Mashione ord. Pbr. Apr. 12. 1532.

Ib. p. 12.

Brinkburn Curates.

- Edm. Willy Cur. ib. Jan. 29. 1577.

- Hum. Hutton Cur. oc. Feb. 13. 1583.

- Bp. Vis. Jul. 30. 1578.

- Bp. Vis. 3 July. 1579.

- Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*

Thornhaugh, Ferderhaugh, Papwithhaugh, Heley, and over Heley, with the woods belonging to them. Also a wood east of Heley, extending from Linckburn to the river Coquet; together with 20 fishes out of Coquet fishery. Roger the founder's grandson gave thereto 140 acres in his wastes of Evenwood, with a large share of wastes near Framlington; also liberty to cut timber out of his woods for necessary uses, and the privilege of killing game. Prince Henry of Scotland, Earl of Northumberland, gave to it a salt-work at Warkworth. The Warrens gave thereto half of the manor of Nethertyrwit, and the appropriations and advowsons of Horsley and Felton.

Wallis, Grose, &c.

↵

†
E. Rol. Dudley.
↵

‡

Mr Wallis has the following anecdote of this personage. ‘In the reign of King Charles I. it belonged to Colonel George Fenwick, in the service of the parliament, and governor of Berwick upon Tweed. Cromwell, on taking Edinburgh, 1650, made him governor of that place. He summoned the governor of Hume Castle to surrender to Cromwell. The governor answered he knew not Cromwell, and for his castle it was built upon a rock. The ordnance playing against it, he sent Fenwick these verses.’

I William of the wastle

Am now in my castle;

And aw the dogs in the town

Shan'd garre me gang down.

‘Breaches were made in his castle, and many rich goods spoiled. Gallant William was forced to surrender: the soldiery were ordered to share his goods, except some furniture and bedding for the accommodation of his lady.’

‘H was member for Berwick, and one of the Parliament Commissioners to treat with the Scots. He was one of the 96 members not suffered by Oliver to sit in his pack'd parliament, 1656.’

↵

*
Grose.
↵

NETHER WITTON,

the modern seat of the Thorntous, now that of Walter Trevelyan, Esq by marrying Margaret daughter of the late James Thornton, Esq— the tower built by Roger Thornton about the fourteenth century now totally in ruins. The country on every hand is rich and beautiful.[†]

From the road we had a view of

Notes

†

Roger Thornton, the celebrated patron of Newcastle upon Tyne.

- Sir Roger married Elizabeth, daughter of John Lord Greystock, Baron of Morpeth, Sheriff of Northumberland 29 and 36 King Henry VII.

- Roger 6 King Edward VI.

- Sir Nicholas whose estate was sequestered by parliament, 8th Nov. 4th King Charles II. 1652.

- James who left two daughters and coheiresses.

Wallis.

↵

STANTON,

a seat of the younger branch of Fenwicks of Fenwick Tower.[‡]

Notes

‡

Sir Ra. de Fenwick, High Sheriff of Northumberland, 7th King Henry VIII.

- Ralph 6 King Edward VI.

- Richard 10th Queen Elizabeth.

- William 14th Char. I.

- Roger mentioned in Brinkburn.

- John mentioned in Brinkburn.

Wallis.

↵

LONG WITTON,

the modern and pleasant seat of the Swinburn family, was our next object, commanding a fine prospect over the rich country which surrounds it. Near it are Thurston wells, of medicinal virtues, but little known. Remains of the Hermin-street, or, as it is vulgarly called, the Devil's Causeway, are to be traced at some little distance.

We observed the tower of Hartburn, but did not quit our road to visit it, though greatly tempted by the agreeable descriptions given us of the walks of Hartburn Wood.

We arrived at

BOLHAM,

a small village of some antiquity, being the ancient residence of Sir Walter de Bolham, to whom it was granted by King John; from the Bolhams it came to the family of Raimes in the time of King Edward III. and as appears by the escheats of the several reigns of King Richard II. King Henry IV. King Henry VI. Queen Elizabeth, and King Charles I. remained in that family for many generations. We inquired after a camp before described to us, of an oblong figure, 120 yards long and 80 broad, fortified with a vallum and double trench, having a raised pass leading to it: It appears to be Roman.[*] The Herman-street passes over Bolham Moor, in many places perfectly to be distinguished. Near it is a tumulus, which was opened by Mr John Warburton, by which two pillars of stone are placed, without any inscription: the personage interred totally unknown. On the north-east side of the moor, is a rock trenched round, containing the ruins of interior buildings; but its history lost in the oblivion of ages. Near Bolham is a place called Gally Hill, the place of execution belonging to the ancient Barons. Many places of that name are to be seen near the baronial castles in this county.

We now took our rout by

Notes

*

From the Manuscripts of Roger Gale, Esq. Extract of a Letter from Mr John Warburton to Roger Gale, Esq 5 January, 1717/•

As I was well assured from the authority of Mr Camden, (for I want languages to derive words) that Clenoventa was on the banks of the Went, or Wentsbeck, in Northumberland; I carefully examined all places from its source, 'till it falls into the sea, that had the least appearance of antiquity, as likewise those upon the river Glen, Bowent, and Alne, (viz.) Anterchester, Yevrin, (which is Bedes ad Gebrin) Milfield, (Bede's Melmin) Brampton, where Mr Camden in his first edition of the Britannia placed Bremenium, but could never satisfy myself until I discovered the Devils Causeway, and found Thorntons standing thereon, which though at present but an inconsiderable village, shews the Vestigia in it of a remarkable town in former times: a high ridged military way runs through the middle of it, and a square platform joins to it, both which are evidently Roman.

I had once made choice of Bolham for the ancient Glanoventa, which is situated upon an eminence opposite to Thornton on the other side of the Wentsbeck, where there are likewise considerable remains of antiquity; but on better consideration found that to have been of the Saxons foundation. [ Why of Saxon foundation? Bolham might have been the town of Glenoventa, and Th•rton a Tarris or Castelliam to it. Thor•ton, by Mr Warbarton's map, is at least two miles north from Bolham. See note to Mr Warburton's letter of 21st Nov. 1717. R. G. ]

About two miles south of this Thornton, close by the military way lately mentioned, are two large stones, standing on their end like those at Burrowbridge, but not so big, and betwixt them a tumulus, which I was at the expence of opening, and in it found a stone coffin, about three feet in length, two in breadth, and two in depth, which was black on the inside with smoke, and had in it several lumps of glutinous matter, which my workmen would needs have to be pieces of the dead hero's flesh. It was covered over with two flat stones, and not above a yard in depth from the summit of the tumulus, but had neither inscription, bones, coins, urns, or other remarkable thing about it. I opened another larger than this near Chester in the Wood, and found it much the same.

Bedal, 5th Jan. 171•/••.
J. Warburton.

↵

MITFORD,

to Morpeth. The ancient castle of Mitford is a rude heap of ruins, situate on a considerable natural eminence; defended towards the north and west by a deep ditch, and on the south the river Wansbeck washes the foot of the castle hill: the works appear to cover about an acre of ground. The principal part of this fortress consisted of a circular tower raised upon an artificial mount, the chief elevation from the natural level being effected by arches of stone and vaults, which in ancient times were used as prisons or places for concealment: the tower was defended by an outward wall, which ran parallel with it, at the distance of about 10 feet. There is a very narrow prospect from this eminence, the vale is so shut in on every side. What other erections were within the walls of this fortress cannot be traced, the ruins are so confused, and most of them covered with grass.

It is presumed this castle was built before the conquest; the first owner and its date are not known.

At the time of the conquest, it was the possession of Sir John Mitford, whose only daughter and heir, Sibille, was given in marriage by the Conqueror to Sir Richard Bertram, a Norman Knight, by whom he had two sons, William and Roger.

William succeeded to the manor and castle of Mitford, and by the grant of King Henry I. it was created a Baronage. He married Alice the daughter of Sir William Merley, of Morpeth. His son Roger, desirous of adding greater improvements to Mitford, paid a fine of 50 marks to King Henry II. for a weekly market at his town of Mitford.

Roger Bertram, [*] a lineal descendant, having joined with the northern Barons in the 17th year of the reign of King John, the Flemish troops commanded by that inhuman ravager in his northern depredations, seized this castle, and destroyed the town of Mitford with fire and sword.[†] The next year, probably whilst the castle remained in the King's custody, it was besieged by Alexander King of Scotland, as is mentioned in Leland's Collectanea, from a chronicle called Historia Aurea. Whether it was taken or not, is not mentioned.

The barony of Mitford was given by the Crown to Philip de Ulcotes; but upon the King's demise, Bertram found means to make his peace with King Henry III. and for a fine of 100l. obtained a restitution of his lands, and afterwards grew into so much esteem with him, that he granted, on the payment of 10 marks, that his annual fair at Mitford should last eight days instead of four.

His successor, Roger Bertram, was one of the insurgents at Northampton, in the reign of King Henry III. where he was taken prisoner, and his honour and castle of Mitford, with all his other lands, were seized for the King's use. The castle was given by King Edward I. to Eleanor Stanour, the wife of Robert de Stoteville.

In the year 1316,[*] this castle was in the possession of one Gilbert Middleton, a Freebooter, who (says Stowe) after many injuries done to the priory of Tynemouth and other places, was taken here by Ralph Lord Greystock [†] and others, and carried to London, and there executed. In the year 1318, it was taken by Alexander King of Scotland, who dismantled it, and spoiled most of its fortifications.

The entire barony of Mitford was then the property of Adomer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. By the escheats of the 17th King Edward II. it appears this castle was in ruins, having been destroyed by the Scots.

This Earl seemed to have a divine interdict impending over him, and the immediate vindictive hand of Providence to be upon him and his posterity, for his atrocious deeds. He was a tool to his Prince, and servilely submitted to the mandates of the Crown, contrary to the dictates of humanity, honour, and justice. He sat in judgment on Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and impiously acquiesced in his sentence. He was a chief instrument in apprehending the famous Scotch patriot, Wallace of Craiggy, in 1305, accomplishing his capture by corrupting his bosom friends, and by the treachery of his most intimate associates, and those in whom he placed his utmost confidence, Sir John Monteith and others of infamous memory. Adomer on his bridal day was slain at a tournament, held in honour of his nuptials, and left a wife, at once a maiden, bride, and widow. [*] It is said, that for several generations of this family, a father never was happy enough to see his son; the proscribed parent being snatched off by the hand of Death, before the birth of his issue.[†]

The unfortunate Lady of Adomer de Valence, was in her own right Baroness of Veisser and Montenact.

This barony afterwards came to the Earl of Athol, [‡] by Johanna his wife, of the Pembroke family, from whom, by female heirs, it passed to the Percys; [§] by two coheiresses it came to the families of Brough and Gray; and from Leland it appears, that in the reign of King Henry VIII. this castle and manor were in the possession of Lord Brough. In the 4th year of Queen Mary, Lord Brough granted these possessions to Cuthbert Mitford and Robert his son for ever, a collateral branch of the ancient owner before the conquest, reserving the scite of the castle and the royalties; which coming afterwards to the Crown, were granted to the above-mentioned Robert Mitford, [*] in the reign of King Charles II.

The church of Mitford, with the impropriation and advowson, were granted by King Edward I. to Lanercost Priory, in Cumberland. In this church is a tomb with a rude effigy of one of the Bertrams, the inscription dated 7th October, 1622.

There was an Hospital at Mitford, dedicated to St. Leonard, founded by Sir William Bertram, (who granted lands for founding Brinkburn Priory) and endowed with lands for the maintenance of a Chaplain. By an inquisition taken in the reign of King Edward III. it appeared that the Abbot of Newminster had possessed himself of these lands; but King Richard II. obliged him to restore them, and nominated John de Wenhings Chaplain. There was an ancient bridge over the Wansbeck, between the church and castle, called Fouse Brig, or Fees Brig; for the guarding of which on the eve and day of the Ascension, Walter de Swinhoe held 40 acres of land in the manor of Mitford, as appears by the escheats of the 51st of King Edward III.

On the banks of Wansbeck, was seated

Notes

*

- Sir Richard Bertram, a Norman Knight.

- Sir William

- Sir Roger

- Sir William, Ob. 8th King John

- Sir Roger, Ob. 26, King Henry III.

- Roger

↵

†

A little higher the river Wentsbeck falls into the sea. It runs by Mitford, which was burnt down by King John and his Rutars, when they so miserably wasted this country, that age called those foreign auxiliaries and freebooters Rutars, who were brought out of the low countries, and other places, to King John's assistance, by Falques de Brent and Walter Buc; which Rutarii or Ruptarii are not only mentioned by our Historians in the reign of King John, but before his time also in the reign of Henry II. and after it under Henry III. By all the accounts which we have of them, it appears they were mercenary German troops. Now, in the High Dutch, Rot (whence our English Rout) is a company of soldiers; Rotten or Rottiren to muster. That from hence we are to fetch the true original of the word, we are sufficiently taught by Will. Newbrigensis, who lived and wrote his History in the times of these Rutars. This was formerly the barony of William Bertram, whose line soon failed in Roger his grandson; the three coheirs being married to Norman Darcy, I. Penbury, and William de Elmeley.

Gibson's Camden.

↵

*

There be ruines of a Castle longynge to the Lord Borow, at Mydford, on the sowth syde of Wansbeke, iiii miles above Morpeth. It was beten downe by the Kynge. For one Ser Gilbert Midleton robby'd a Cardinall cominge out of Scotland, and fled to his Castle of Midford.

Lel. Itin. v. 7. p. 76.

Anno D. 1317. Duo Cardinales Gaucelinus sanctorum Marcellini & Petri Presbyter Cardinalis & Lucus de Ilisco S. Mariae in via lata, Diaconis Cardinalis, dum cum Ludovico, ut ejus creationi interessent, versis Dunelmum procederent, inter Fery & Wottoun per Gillertum de Midleton et ejus complices depraedati sunt. Ludovicus electus Episcopus Dunelmensis, & Henricus frater suus ad Castrum de Metforde adducti. Mitforde Castellum non fuit id temporis (ut quidem volunt) drutum.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 335.

Alexander King of Scotts, son to King Willliam, did entre ynto England, & did muche despite to King John. He assegid the Castel of Mitteford & Norham, & toke homages of divers nobil men of Northumberland and the counte of York; wherfor King John after destroied much of theyr landes, & bet doune Morpeth Castel.

Ibd. vol. 1. p. 535.

↵

†
He was soon after poisoned at Gateshead by some of Middleton's confederates.
↵

*

She was so affected by the loss of her husband, that she resigned herself entirely to a religious and contemplative life, and bestowed most of her fortune in acts of piety and charity, raising her faithful friends above want and indigence, and erecting noble structures in honour of religion and learning with liberal endowments. Denney Priory, in Cambridgeshire, for Nuns of the order of St Clare, being of her foundation, endowed with the manor of Stroud, in Kent, and other lands; also Pembroke Hall, in Cambridge, mostly finished about the year 1347, and endowed with lands for a warden and fellows, some of whom she lived to see preferred to the highest dignities in England, in the course of 40 years or upwards. She died 15th March, 51st of King Edward III. and was interred in her own Priory of Denney, under a marble monument, between the two choirs of the Nuns and Seculars. She survived her husband 61 years.

Wallis.

↵

†
Holling Chron. From Adomer unto John de Hastings, Earl of Pembroke, 1390.
↵

‡
Inquisition taken at Newcastle upon Tyne the 20th of March, in the first year of the reign of Edward II.
↵

§
Inquisition taken at Newcastle upon Tyne 10th October, eleventh King Henry VI.
↵

*

Robert Mitford married Jane daughter of John Metford, of Seghill. Had issue three sons and four daughters.

- Cuthbert married Mary daughter of Ch. Wharton, of Offerton. They both died on one day at Mitford.

- Robert married Philadelphia daughter of Humphrey Wharton, of Gillingwood, Yorkshire.

- Humphry married Frances daughter of Sir George Vane, of Longnewton, Durham.

- Robert High Sheriff of Northumberland. 9 King William III. A. D. 1697.

- Robert High Sheriff, 9 King George III.

- Bertram the present proprietor.

↵

THE ABBEY OF NEWMINSTER,

now destroyed to its foundations, and nothing left to denote its scite, but a part of one of the gateways leading into the abbey yard.

It was founded by Ralph de Merlay, Baron of Morpeth, and Julian his wife, daughter of Cospatric Earl of Northumberland, in the reign of King Stephen, 1138,[*] for Cisterfian Monks, [†] translated from Fountains, in Normandy, and was dedicated to the blessed Virgin. Its endowments and revenues were very ample.[‡]

The Abbot was summoned to the parliament at Carlisle by King Edward I. 1307.

The revenues of this abbey at the dissolution, were valued by Dugdale at 100l. 1s. 1d. and by Speed at 140l. 10s. 4d. The religious body at that time consisted of 15.[*]

The scite was granted by King James I. to the Brandling family, and it is now the possession of Mr Ord of Fenham.[†]

The vale of Wansbeck, from Mitford to Morpeth, is narrow and deep, but the winding banks of the stream are woody and beautiful.

Not far distant from Mitford, stands

Notes

*

Eodem anno, id est, 1138, quidem vir potens in Northumbria cepit in sua possessione apud castrum, quod dicitur Morpeth, monachus de Fontibus VIII No. Januar. qui construxerunt caenobium, S. novum monasterium vocatum. Quibus hoc ipso anno circa Epiphaniae diem Galfridus Episcop. Dunelmi, benedixit abbatem Rodbertum, fanctum virum. Quos libenter fovit praedictus vir, scilicet Ranulphus de Merley.

Lel. Col. vol. II. p. 362.

↵

†

Anno quinto a fundatione matris nostrae vir nobilis Ranulphus de Merley fontes nostros visurus accessit, & postea in patrimonio suo novum monasterium construit. Hic primus palmes quem vinea nostra expandit.

Ib. vol. III. p. 106.

↵

‡

The founder endowed it with ‘The Lordship of Ritton, and part of the woods of Witton, and all the vale between Morpeth and Hebre, by the brook of Fullbeck to its fall into Cottingburn, and by Cottingburn to its fall into Wansbeck.’

Its several benefactors were

- Margery the Lady of the second Roger de Merley,

- She gave three fisheries in the river Tyne.

- William Bertram, Baron of Mitford,

- The fine vale between the Minster and Mitford.

- Peter son of John Vicar of Mitford,

- Aldworth Grange.

- Everard de Ros, Baron of Wark,

- Sturton Grange.

- Robert Bertram, Baron of Bothall,

- The estate called Forum.

- Sir Gilbert de Humfreville, Baron of Prudhow,

- The moors of Chiviot, the granges of Felton, and Tollard, and Turfhill pasture.

- Sir Walter Baron of Bolham,

- Newton Grange.

- Hugh Baron of Bolbeck, and Theophania his wife,

- The villa of Rotheley.

- Robert de Greystock,

- The manor and royalties of Kestern and Werehill, the demesnes of which they bought of John de Kestern.

- Roger Baron of Warkworth,

- A salt work at Warkworth.

- Henry Cemers, and Eda his wife,

- Scarplane Grange and an estate at Clifton.

- They held Tritlington of the manor of Wark upon Tweed.

- Sir Richard Gubion,

- 20s. yearly out of his mill of Shilvington.

- Sir Roger de Merley—the like at Stanton.

- Sir Robert de Fenwick,

- Two parts of his villa of Irdington, in Cumberland.

- Allan Whitehead, Vicar of Tynemouth, and William Kell,

- Lands in Stannington.

- John de Plesses,

- Mills of Stannington, and Lands thereto appertaining.

- John de Mitford,

- Lands in Echwick.

- John Lord Greystock

- Restored to them Common right at Stobbiford, given by their founder, and again taken away by his heir.

- Sir Roger de Somerville,

- Impropriation and advowson of Stannington; they also had the impropriation and advowson of Kirkwhelpington.

Roger de Thornson, Ralph Lord Greystock, John Lord Greystock, and Sir Ra. Nevil, gave sundry sums to adorn the church.

↵

*

A qwartar of a mile owt of the towne, on the hithere syde of Wanspeke, was Newe Minster Abbay of White Monks; plesaunt watar and very fayre wood about it.

Lel. Itin. vol. 7. p. 75.

↵

†

Ranulph de Merlay and Julian his wife (who was daughter of Cospatric Earl of Northumberland) built here, A. D. 1138, an Abbey of Cistertian Monks from Fountains, to the honour of the blessed Virgin Mary. It had at the surpression about 15 religious, and possessions of the yearly value of 100l. 1s. 1d. Dugd. 140l. 10s. 4d. Speed. The scite was granted 7 King James I. to Robert Brandling.

Vide in Mon. Angl. Tom. 800. annotatiunculas quasdam historicas deprima fundatione ex Lel. Col. vol. 2. et Cod. ms. de origine fontanensis coenobii. Cartas R. Hen. I. Ranulpho de Merlay, Ranulpi de Merlay Monachis, et Will. de Merlai. Cart. 39. Hen. III. m. 3. confirm donationes Rogeri Bertram, Roberti de Graystok, et Gilberti de Umfranville de Mereden divisa inter baronias de Midford et Morpeth etc.

Ibid Tom. ii. p. 916, 917, 918, quaedam de fundatore et praecipius benefactoribus abbatiae de Newminster ex Martyrologio ejusdem domus.

In Leland's Collect. v. 3. p. 106. notulam de fundatione.

In Bourn's History of Newcastle, p. 142. of six houses in Newcastle.

Registrum hujus Abbatiae ms. penes dom. Will. Howard de Naworth. Martyrologium Abbatiae de Newminster quondam inter mss Cecilianos nunc in bibl. ducis Cantiae.

Collectanea ex registro et Martyrologio per Franc. Thynn ms penes Io. Anstis arm.

Fin. div. com. 8 Joan n. 47. de commun. pastur. in foresta de Rouberi. Cart. 28. Hen. 3. m. 1. Cart. 36. Hen. 3. m. 12. Cart. 55 Hen. 3. m. 5 et 6. Cart. 18. Ed. 1. n. 63. de lib. war. in Horton, Filton, Newton, West et est Ritton, Kestern, Ulgham, et Rothely. (Northumberland) Plac. apud Westm. 20. Ed. 1. rot. 117 de cclvii acris etc. in Rocheby. Plac. in com. Northumb. 21. Ed. 1. assis. rot. 6. dorso, de ten. in Bolum. Rot. 13. et 18 dorso. quo. war. rot. 3. dorso. Cart. 35. Ed. 1. n. 34.

Pat. 8. Ed. 2. p. m. 5. Pat. 10. Edw. 2. p. 1. m. 7. vel. 8. de limittibus terrarum dominicalium abbatiae. Pat. 4. Ed. 3. p. 2. m. Cart. 4. Edw. 3. n. 85. Claus. 4. Ed. 3. m. 37. pro advoc. eccl. de Stainington. Pat. 8. Ed. 3. p. 2. m. 18 pro eccl. de Whelpinton. Pat. 22. Ed. 3. p. 3. m. 22 vel 23. Pat. 38. Ed. 3. p. 2. m. 20 vel 21.

Pat. 16. Ric. 2. p. 8. m. 1.

Tanner.

↵

MOLLESTON,

formerly the possession of a collateral branch of Mitfords, who afterwards regained the baronial inheritance of Mitford. It was granted, in the reign of King Edward III. by Strabolgy Earl of Athol, to Sir John de Mitford, a lineal descendant of Matthew de Mitford, younger brother of Sir John de Mitford, whose daughter Sibille married Sir Richard Bertram. [*]

We approached

Notes

*

- Sir John De Mitford.

- Matthew

- Sir John 43 King Edward III.

- William High Sheriff of Northumberland 5 and 6 King Henry V. died 1st King Henry VI.

- John A benefactor to the Abbey of Newminster, died 35 King Henry VI.

- John

- Bertram

- Gawen

- Cuthbert One of the Commissioners for Division of the Middle Marches 6th King Edward VI.

- Robert

Wallis.

↵

MORPETH,

which we made our common resting place, after several little excursions into the adjoining country. It is a pleasant well built town, seated on the northern banks of the river Wansbeck, in a warm and sheltered vale, surrounded with a rich cultivated country; and tho' without any considerable degree of trade, wears the countenance of opulence.[*] It is a prescriptive borough, governed by two Bailiffs and seven Burgesses, annually elected out of the free burgesses being inhabitants and paying scot and lot. In the first year of the reign of Queen Mary, 1553, it began to send members to parliament, who are now elected by the free burgesses, and are returned by the Bailiffs.[*] A weekly market is held on Wednesday, when there is exposed a profusion of excellent provisions. It has the privilege of two yearly fairs, held on Holy Thursday and Magdalen-day.[*] The market-place is conveniently situated, near the centre of the town, though narrow enough for the great resort to it. An elegant Town-house was built by the Carlisle family in 1714, in which their manorial court is held, and also the quarter sessions for the county of Northumberland. The structure is of hewn-stone, with a piazza ornamented with rustic work, the superstructure decorated with turrets, in a very good taste. The market cross is commodious, built in 1699. by the Hon. P. Howard and Sir H. Bellasis. As the church is distant about a quarter of a mile from the town, a tower is built near the market-place, containing a good ring of bells. Near the bridge is the county gaol, a modern structure. King Edward VI. founded a Grammar School here, and endowed it with the revenues of two dissolved chantries in Morpeth, and one at Nether Witton. The school-house, with a neat chapel lately erected, stand on the brink of the river, near the bridge, which leads to Newcastle:
[*]
the parochial church [†] is on the southern side of the river; a plain structure, containing nothing remarkable but one inscription.
[‡]
Opposite to the church is the Rectory-house, a handsome new building.[§] There was a chantry in this church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but by whom founded, or how endowed, is not known. John Anderson was Chaplain May 10th, 8th of King Henry VII.

The baronial castle [*] is in ruins, little remaining thereof but an old gateway tower and part of the outward wall which enclosed the area and interior buildings. It is placed on a lofty eminence, unassisted by art; the southern side is very steep, and washed by the river Wansbeck; the northern secured by a deep valley. The tower has formerly had angular turrets at the north-east and south-east corners, with a communication by an open gallery which was supported by projecting corbles: there is no portcullis. In the centre of the arched roof of the gateway is a square aperture, calculated to annoy assailants who should gain the outward gate. It commands a fine prospect, overlooking the town of Morpeth, and the banks of Wansbeck, where large tracts of woodlands are beautifully disposed. Near this tower, towards the north-east, and on the other side of the deep dell or valley, before described, is a round mound of earth, on a natural mount whose height is greatly increased by art. It appears to have been raised rather by assailants than as an outwork or defence to the castle; for from thence, by engines, stones and missile weapons might be thrown into the interior parts of the fortress, to annoy the garrison: and agreeable to the modes practised in early times, perhaps this was cast up for an opposing fort and malvoisin on some blockade. No record come to my knowledge proves who was the first founder of this castle; early in the time of the Normans, the baronial seat of the Merleys was here, and probably they had a stronghold upon the very eminence where the present remains stand— the tower was the work of William Lord Greystock, who lived in the time of King Edward III. as appears by the escheats of that reign.[*] Surnames were derived from places, and that of Merley, probably from their fortress here. By the rolls of Henry V. the barony is called the barony of Marlay: which shews that Merlay and Morpeth were places originally distinct from each other, the one denoting the hill and the other the valley; at length the distinctions subsided in the general appellation of Morpeth.

We do not find in history any thing singular of Morpeth in the times of the Saxons; it was the ancient barony of the Merleys, but when it was so created, or whether the Merleys were in possession before the conquest, there is no satisfactory evidence. By the Testa de Nevill it appears, that the third Roger de Merley held the barony of Morpeth by the service of four Knights fees. "Et omnes antecessores sui tenerunt per iundem servicium post conquestium Angliae." King Henry I. gave Julian the daughter of Gospatrick Earl of Dunbar in marriage, with a rich dowery, to Roger de Merley, Baron of Morpeth.[†] This Roger founded Newminster, and as appears by the Autographo, was interred therein, with his Lady and Osbert their son.[‡]

There was an hospital founded in Morpeth by this family, to which William de Merley gave a carucate of land.[§]

Roger de Merley obtained of King John, 1199, a market for his borough, and an annual fair on Magdalen-day, in consideration of a fine of 20 marks and two palfreys. He was also interred at Newminster. [*]

His successor Roger ornamented the borough of Morpeth, and founded an Hospital at Catchburn. He was also interred at Newminster. [†]

Roger the third granted to his burgesses a freedom from all taxes, subsidies, or contributions, except those to the King for public safety, the marriage honours of the Lord's heir or eldest daughter, or the Lord's redemption from captivity. He granted several other liberties and immunities. The charter is so valuable and singular a piece of antiquity, that it highly merits a place here.

Omnibus hanc cartam visuris vel audituris Rogerus de Merlay tertius salutem. Noveritis me audisse cartà Rogeri patris mei in hac verba. Omnibus hominibus has literas visuris, vel audituris, Rogerus de Merlay salutem. Sciatis quod ego Rogerus de Merlay dedi et concessi, et hac praesenti carta mea confirmavisse, meis liberis burgensibus de Morpeth, illis et haeredibus suis, tenend. et habend. in perpetuum de me et haeredibus meis, omnes libertates, et omnes liberas consuetudines, honorabiliter, et libere, et integre, sicuti carta domini Regis purportat, quam ego habio de dono suo. His testibus, Willielmo de Merlay, Richardo de Plesses, &c. &c. Quare volo, concedo et confirmo, pro me et haeredibus meis, praedictis burgensibus, et haeredibus suis, quod habeant omnes libertates praedictas, sicut carta Rogeri de Merlay patris mei purportat et testatur. Et praeterea concessi pro me et haeredibus meis quod praefati burgenses nec haeredes eorum tallientur nisi quando dominus Rex talliabit burgenses suos et ad promogenitum meum milit. faciend. et ad primogenitum filiam meam maritandum, et ad corpus meum de prisona redimendum. Item concessi eisdem quod si ego vel haeredes mei, prizas ferimus per servientes nostros de pane vel de cervisia vel de aliqua alia de re in dicta villa de Morpath, illae prizae solvantur creditori infra quadraginta dies; creditor autem cui non solutum fuerit infra quadraginta de prizis ab eis factis maneat quietus ab omni priza post illas quadraginta dies quousque ei solutum fuerit. Ita tamen quod bene licebit mihi et haeredibus meis alias prizas facere, infra terminum illarum quadraginta dierum. Et sciendum quod priza mea cervisiae erit in toto anno tres gallones pro uno denario. Concessi etiam eisdem burgensibus et haeredibus solitas communas pasturae et aisiamenta consueta cum libero exitû et introitu ad eandem villam de Morpath pertin. Exceptis bladis & pratis. Concessi etiam superdictis burgensibus et haeredibus eorum communam in stipulis meis, ejusdem manerii mei de Morpath; scilicet de Wenherlawe versus occidentem usque ad divisas abbatis novi monasterii, et usque ad fossatum parci occidentalis. Ita tamen quod herbagium earundem stipularum reservetur ad opus meum et haeredum meorum per quindecem dies postquam bladum meum fuerit cariatum. Et concessi eisdem burgensibus et haeredibus eorum, quod quando eis turbarias vendere voluero in turbariis meis de Morpath, et quantum eis vendere voluero, singulas cariatas turbarii pro singulis denariis. Et si contingat quod averia eorundem burgensium capiantur in defensis meis, pro quolibet averio debant unum obulum, et pro quolibet equo unum obulum, et pro quinque ovibus unum obulum per tres vices tam extra quam infra, et ad quartem vicem pro singulis eorum averiorum captis infra boscum dabunt octo denarios, et extra boscum quatuor denarios, et postea iterum incipiendo pro singulis averiorum obulum per tres vices, ut praedictum est. Et si averia eorum capiantur in bladis vel in pratis, faciant emendas secundum tempus anni. Concessi insuper, et confirmavi praefatis burgensibus et eorum haeredibus illam placeam quietam ubi forum eorum esse solebat (excepto tamen Tofto Aliciae Hudde, et pristina ejusdem villae, et excepta quadam fabrica, quam Philippus tenuit. In qua placea volo quod stalla eorum construnantur ubi carnes et pisces vendant usque in horam nonam. Et prohibeo super plenam forisfacturam mei et heredum meorum ne quis presumat vendere carnes nec pisces ante horam nonam, quoniam servicii dict. stall. nisi in grosso. Et sciendum quod bene licebit mihi et haeredibus meis facere aedificia nostra ubicunque voluerimus in culturis nostris, in quibus eis concessimus communia sine impedimento vel contradictione dictorum burgensium, vel haeredum eorum in perpetuum. Et sciendum quod dicti burgenses et haeredes eorum sequentur molendina mea de Morpath ad tertium decimum vas multurae, sicut prius sequi consueverunt. Et ego Rogerus de Merlay et haeredes mei universa praenominata et concessa dictis burgensibus et eorum haeredibus contra omnes gentes in perpetuum warrantizabimus. Et in hujus rei testimonium unam partem hujus cartae chirographatae quam dicti burgences habent penes eos et haeredes eorum sigillo meo roberavi; et aliam partem habeo penes me et haeredes meos communi sigillo dictorum burgensium signatum. His testibus Hugone Gubion, Willielmo de Merlay, Johanne de Plesses, Willielmo de Conyers, Ada Barret, Willielmo de Horsley, Willielmo filio Radulphi, Richardo de Saltwick, Richardo de Sancto Petro, Willielmo Spurnelow, Radulpho Grom. Thoraldo, Rogero Palmer, Waltero de Witton clerico et aliis.

Roger the third was also interred at Newminster, leaving two daughters, Mary and Johanna, his coheiresses.[*]

Mary the eldest daughter married William Lord Greystock, to whose issue the whole barony of Morpeth descended. Johanna married Robert de Somerville, by whom she had five sons, who all died without issue male.

John his heir was a great benefactor to Tynemouth and Newminster. [†] In the Autographo, he is termed Vir strenuus et corpulentus. He died in the year 1307.

On extinction of the male line of Fitz William, who on the death of John Lord Greystock assumed the name and title of Greystock, Morpeth passed by marriage of the heiress, to Lord William Dacre of Gilsland, in Cumberland; and by marriage of the heiress of the Dacre family, to Lord William Howard, third son of the Duke of Norfolk, from whom they descended to the present Lord Carlisle.

We made an excursion from Morpeth, to visit

Notes

*

Morpet, a market towne, is XII longe miles from New Castle. Wansbeke, a praty ryver, rynnithe thrwghe the syde of the towne. On the hether syde of the river is the principall churche of the towne. On the same syde is the fayre castle stondinge upon a hill, longinge with the towne to the Lord Dacres of Gilsland. The towne is longe & metely well buylded with low howsys, the streets pavyd. It is far fayrar towne then Alnwicke.

Lel. Itin. vol. VII. p. 53.

↵

*

The town's arms are argent, barry of six, azure and gules, over all a castle tripple crowned within a bordure azure seme de Martlets.

Browne Willis.

This Borough did not send Members to Parliament till the first year of Queen Mary, 1553.

Annis.

Mary

Parliament.

1553

John Watson, Gent. William Warde, Gent.

1 p. at Westminster.

1554

Thomas Beates, — William Warde,

1 p. at Oxford.

Ph. and Mary,

1554

Henry Percy, Gent. Robert Warde,

1 and 2 p. at Westminster.

1555

Cuthbert Horsley — Thomas Bates

2 and 3 p. at Westminster.

1557

Robert Whetely — Thomas Bates

4 and 5 p. at Westminster.

Elizabeth.

1558

Thomas Bates, Gent.

1 p. at Westminster.

1562

William Warde, — Arthur Welshe, Gent.

5 p. at Westminster.

1571

Francis Gawdy, Esq Nicholas Mynn, Esq

13 p. at Westminster.

1572

George Bowes, Knight. Richard Wroth, Gent.

14 p. at Westminster.

George Bowes Knighted at Leith by Edward Seimore, E. Hertford.

1585

William Carey, Esq George Gifford, Esq

27 p. at Westminster.

1586

Robert Carey, Esq Anthony Felton, Esq

28 p. at Westminster.

1588

Robert Carew, Esq Hen. Nowell, Esq

31 p. at Westminster.

1592

Edm. Boyer, Esq Francis Tindal, Gent.

31 p. at Westminster.

1597

Robert Printell, Esq Thomas Carleton, Esq

39 p. at Westminster.

1601

George Savil, Esq John Browne, Esq

43 p. at Westminster.

James I.

1603

Ch. Perkins, Knight. John Hare, Esq

1 p. at Westminster.

1614

Ch. Perkins, Knight

12 p. at Westminster.

1620

Robert Brandling, Esq John Robson, de Morpeth, Clerk

18 p. at Westminster.

A New Writ was ordered to elect in Robson's place, because he was a Clergyman.

1623

William Carnaby, Knight. Thomas Reynell, Esq

21 p. at Westminster.

William Carnaby of Halton Tower.

Charles I.

1625

Anthony Herbert, Knight. Thomas Reynell, Esq

1 p. at Westminster.

1625

Thomas Reynell, Knight. John Banks, Esq

1 p. at Westminster.

1628

Thomas Reynell, Knight. John Banks, Esq

3 p. at Westminster.

1640

Phil. Mainwaring, Knight. Thomas Witherings, Esq

15 p. at Westminster.

1640

John Fenwick, Esq William Carnaby, Knight

16 p. at Westminster.

Carnaby expelled, 26th August, 1642.

John Fiennes, Esq George Fenwick, Esq

Fenwick died 15th March, 1656.

N. B. These latter members came in the rooms of the first elected Burgesses, on their deaths or being displaced, between 1640 and 1653.

Oliver Cromwell.

1653

1st p. at Westminster, 5th July, 1653.

This parliament, called the "Little Parliament," was convened by the Usurper, but no Representatives for Cities or Boroughs, except London, were summoned to it.

1654

2d p. at Westminster, 3d September, 1654.

No Burgesses returned for Morpeth.

1656

3d p. at Westmister, 17th September, 1656.

No Burgesses returned for Morpeth.

Richard Cromwell.

1658

Robert Delaval, Esq Robert Mitford, Esq

p. at Westminster. 27th Jan. 1658.

The Convention Parliament, 25th April, 1660.

1660

Edward Lord Morpeth. George Downing, Knight

p. at Westminster.

Charles II.

1661

Edward Lord Morpeth. George Downing, Knight

13 p. at Westminster.

1678

Edward Lord Morpeth.[*] George Downing, Bart.

31 p. at Westminster.

1679

George Downing, Bart. Dan. Collingwood, Esq

32 p. at Oxford.

James II.

1685

Will. Pickering, Knight. John Oglethorp

1 p. at Westminster.

The Convention Parliament, 22d Jan. 1688.

1689

Roger Fenwick, Esq Charles Lord Morpeth.

p. at Westminster.

William and Mary.

1689

Roger Fenwick, Esq Charles Lord Morpeth[†]

2 p. at Westminster.

William III.

1695

Sir Hen. Bellasis, Knight. George Newland

p. at Westminster.

Resolved, 9th March, 1695, that the right of Election is only in the Bailiffs and Free Burgesses.

1698

Sir Hen. Bellasis, Knight. Hon. Phil. Howard

10 p. at Westminster.

1700

Sir John Delaval. Eman. Howe

12 p. at Westminster.

1701

Sir John Delaval. Eman. Howe

13 p. at Westminster.

Anne.

1702

1st p. at Westminster.

1705

Sir Richard Sandford, Bart.[‡] Edm. Maine, Esq

4 p. at Westminster.

1708

Sir Richard Sandford, Bart. Sir John Bennet, Knight[§]

7 p. at Westminster.

1710

Sir Richard Sandford. Ch. Visc. Castlecomer

9 p. at Westminster.

1713

Sir John Germanic, Bart.‖ Oley Douglas, Esq

12 p. at Westminster.

George I.

1714

Charles Visc. Castle Comber.

Oley Douglas, Esq was a petitioner with Thomas Renda, Esq in the 1st p. of King George I. but he withdrawing his petition, Lord Visc. Castlecomber made his election for Rippon, and a new writ ordered March 26, 1717. George Carpenter, Esq a Colonel in the Guards was elected.

George Carpenter, Esq Henry Lord Morpeth

1 p. at Westminster.

Robert Fenwick, Esq was a petitioner.

1722

George Carpenter, Esq Henry Lord Morpeth

7 p. at Westminster.

George II.

1727

George Carpenter, Esq [¶] Henry Lord Morpeth

1 p. at Westminster.

Sir Thomas Robinson, Bart.

1734

Sir Henry Liddell, Bart. Henry Lord Morpeth[*]

7 p. at Westminster.

A new writ ordered 9th May, 1738. Hen. Furnesse, of Gunnersby-house, elected.

Hen. Furnesse, Esq.

1741

Sir Hen. Liddell, Bart. Robert Ord, Esq [†]

14 p. at Westminster.

Sir Hen. Liddell was created Baron of Ravensworth, 29th June 1747, and was one of the Committee chosed by ballot to enquire into the conduct of Robert E. of Orford, for 10 years past.

1747

James Visc. Limerick. Robert Ord, Esq

21 p. at Westminster.

1754

Thomas Duncomb, Esq [‡] Robert Ord, Esq [§]

30 p. at Westminster.

George III.

1761

Thomas Duncomb, Esq John Stewart Visc. Gairlies

1 p. at Westminster.

- The Poll of Free Burgesses in No. 51, 28 March, 1761.

- Thomas Duncomb, Esq 31

- Lord Gairlies 26

- John Ord 25

- Major Midford 20

1768

Peter Beckford, Esq ‖ Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart.[¶]

8 p. at Westminster.

- The Poll of Burgesses, 21 March, 1768.

- Peter Beckford, Esq 51

- Sir M. W. Ridley, Bart 29

- Francis Eyre, Esq 26

F. Eyre had 12 mandamus votes. He petitioned against Sir M. W. Ridley. 23d Feb. 1769. Sir M. W. Ridley was by the house voted duly elected, by a majority of 122 against 26.

1774

Francis Eyre, Esq Peter Delme, Esq

p. at Westminster.

- The Poll of Burgesses, 14th October, 1774.

- Francis Eyre 162

- Peter Delme 150

- Hon. William Byron 140

- Thomas Charles Bigge, of Little Benton 132

Hon. William Byron, petitioner, voted duly elected, 26th Jan. 1775, in the room of Francis Eyre.

↵

*
E. Carlisle, 24 Feb. 1584.
↵

†
E. of Carlisle, 23d April, 1692.
↵

‡
Of Houghill Castle, in the county of Westmoreland, Warden of the Mint.
↵

§
Serjeant at Law.
↵

‖
Of Drayton, Northamptonshire.
↵

¶
Carpenter, Lord Carpenter by death of his father, 10th Feb. 1731, of Homme in the county of Hereford. Sir Thomas Robinson, Bart. of Rookby, in the county of York, in his place, a Cornet in Wade's regiment.
↵

*
Earl of Carlisle by the death of his father, 1st May, 1738.
↵

†
Of Petersham, in Surry, R. R. S.
↵

‡
Duncomb, of Duncomb Park, in the county of York, married Diana, sister to the Earl of Carlisle.
↵

§
Ord succeeded Baron Idle as Chief Baron of the Exchequer of Scotland, about 4th Oct. 1755.
↵

‖
Nephew of Will. Beckford, Esq Alderman of London.
↵

¶
Of Blagdon, county of Northumberland.
↵

*
King Edward I. by grant enlarged this Fair to three days, on the eve, and on the festival of St Mary Magdalen, and the day following. 9th May 13 Edw. I.
↵

*

Extract from the Antiquarian Repository, No. IX.

The Chantry founded at Morpeth, was situated on the north east of the bridge, as you enter the town, very near the side of the river Wansbeck, in a beautiful vale of wood and water, as most of the religious houses in the north are. It was partly pulled down at the dissolution of the Monasteries, and remained in that situation till the 6th year of King Edward VI. when a Grammar School was founded here, and endowed with the whole estates, as appears by the Grant annexed. The middle area to the west is entire, enlarging the windows, and breaking convenient doors, for the original entrance to the west, is built up with a window in the Belfrey. The north area is almost demolished, and many houses built out of the materials on the ground; in a yard behind these houses the ground plan may be traced with the greatest ease, which has been cruciform. A very handsome modern-built Chapel, for the use of the town, was built some years ago on the south, and the Grammar School is kept in the west part, which is entire. I am well informed that some of the estates and revenues mentioned in the Grant of King Edward VI. have been alienated from the good purposes of the founder, are fallen at last into private property, and are so held to this day.

Abstract of the Grant.

Edward the VIth, by the grace of God of Great Britain, France, and Ireland King, Defender of the Faith, and over the church of England and Ireland supreme head: To all to whom these our present letters shall come greeting, Know ye, that we, as well upon the humble petition of William Lord Dacre, Greystock, and Gilsland, as of the Bailiffs and Burgesses of the town of Morpeth, in our county of Northumberland, and many other of our subjects of the whole county there adjoining, for founding and erecting a Grammar School there for the instruction and education of youth, do of our special favour, &c. grant and ordain, that from henceforth there shall be one Grammar School in the said town of Morpeth, which shall be called the Free Grammar School of King Edward VI. to be continued for ever. And we do by these Presents declare, that the said School shall have one Master and Assistant. Know ye, that of our special favour we have granted, of our free will and pleasure, to the Bailiffs and Burgesses of the said town of Morpeth, in the county of Northumberland, all those two late Chantries in Morpeth, in the said county, and all that late Chantry of St Egidius, founded in the chapel of Witton, in the parish of Hartburn, in the said county, with all their rights, &c. And all and singular our messuages, lands, tenements, cottages, gardens, meadows, pastures, feedings, rents, reversions, services, and hereditaments whatsoever, situate and being in Morpeth and Nether Witton, and elsewhere in the said county, to the said late Chantries belonging, which had been formerly granted or appointed for the support of any of the Presbyters or Ministers formerly ministering in the said late Chantries, or any of them; and also all and singular our messuages, lands, &c. &c. situate and being in Morpeth aforesaid, and in Ponteland, Milburne, Dorris Hall, High Callerton, Berwick Hill, Low Callerton and Dennington, or elsewhere in our said county, which have been granted for the support of any Presbyters or Ministers formerly ministering in Morpeth, for the support of the School of Morpeth, or for the support of the Presbyter or Minister in Ponteland, in the said county; and the reversions of all and singular the said premisses, in as ample manner to hold, as any of the Ministers of the late Chantries, or any Master of the School in Morpeth, or any person whatever formerly had occupied or enjoyed the same, as all and singular the said premises have or ought to have come to our hands, by reason of any act passed in our parliament, held at Westminster in the first year of our reign, amongst other things made and provided concerning the dissolution and determination of divers Chantries, Colleges, Free Chapels, Gilds, and Fraternities, or ought to remain in our hands, which messuages, lands, &c. &c. are only computed at the clear yearly value of 20l. 10s. 8d. To hold the said messuages, lands, &c. &c. to the said Bailiffs and Burgesses of Morpeth for ever, to hold of us our heirs and successors, as of our manor of Estegrenewicke, in our county of Kent, by fealty only of free soccage, yielding and paying to us, our heirs and successors, yearly and every year, the sum of 10s. 8d. of lawful money of Great Britain, to be paid at the feast of St Michael the Archangel, for all rents and services and demands whatever. And we also give to the said Bailiffs and Burgesses, the profits growing out of the same, from the feast of the annunciation of the blessed Virgin Mary last past, to the date hereof, without fine or gift to us or our heirs and successors for the same. And further we grant to our said Bailiffs and Burgesses, and the major part thereof, power with the then Bishop of Durham to appoint Masters when necessary, to make statutes and laws in writing for the government of the same, the salary, the direction and management of the rents, &c. for the support of the said School for ever. And we further empower our Bailiffs and Burgesses to take and receive to them and their successors, or of any other person, manors, messuages, lands, tenements, rectories, tythes, and other hereditaments whatsoever within the kingdom of Great Britain, or elsewhere, within our dominions, so as they do not exceed the yearly value of 20l. as well to support the said School as for the support of the Bridge, or other necessary buildings in Morpeth, besides the said messuages, lands, &c. &c. to the said Bailiffs and Burgesses, and their successors aforesaid granted, the statute of Mortmain concerning lands and hereditaments, or any other statute, act, or ordnance, had or provided to the contrary. And it is our will and pleasure, that the said Bailiffs and Burgesses have our letters patent duly made out and sealed, under our great seal of England, without any fee or fine, great or small, to be made, paid, or given for the same, in our Hanaper office or elsewhere.

In witness whereof we have caused these our letters to be made patent, at Westminster, the 12th day of March, in the 6th year of our reign.

Signed

- Nel. Beaumont.

- E. Shawfeld.

Inrolled in the office of Richard Hochenson, Auditor of our Lord the King, in the said county of Northumberland, 26th day of March, in the 6th year of our Reign.

Statutes and Ordinances for this School were made by the Bailiffs and Burgesses, and confirmed by the Right Reverend Father in God, William Lord Bishop of Durham, the 7th day January, A. D. 1725, amongst which the following are particularly worthy notice.

10—The Master shall be of the degree of Master of Arts.

11—The Usher shall be Batchelor of Arts.

13—They shall teach all Freemen and Brothers Children gratis.

14—That the Sons of all Tenants and Farmers, who have not a freehold estate above the value of 20l. per annum, shall be taught for 20s. per annum; and the Master and Usher shall ask no more.

Which Statutes and Ordinances were thus ratified.

I do hereby consent and approve of the abovesaid Statutes and Orders for the Free Grammar School at Morpeth, containing in number 45, and do as much as in me lies (as Visitor of the said School) ratify and confirm the same. Witness my Hand and Episcopal Seal, this 12th day of February, Anno Dom. 1725. W. (LS) Duresme. L.
Common Seal of the Corporation of Morpeth.

The Master's salary is near 100l. a year, the Usher's about 60l. a year.

The Sons of Freemen and Brothers of Morpeth are only intitled to be taught gratis.

- John Maxwell — Ludi Mag. not. lic. oc. 1577.

- Nych. Rydley, sub. ipo didascalus. not. lic. 1577.

- Bryan Henshaw, A. M. lic. Oct. 10. 1618. Oc. 28th Nov. 1627.

- El. P. Balivos Burgeuses & Aldermanos.

- Steph. Jackson, A. B. lic. (f. Usher) Aug. 18. 1683.

- — Grover, A. M.

- Mordecai Cary, A. M.

- Scholar of Trin. Col. Cam. appointed Bishop of Clonfert in Ireland, Mar. 22. 1731. aft. Bishop of Killala and Achonry, Dec. 20, 1735.

- Humph. Holden, M. A. 1732, by promotion of Cary.

- Ob. Mar. 20. 1771. at Morpeth.

- John Loddington, B. A. Ush. oc. 1740. res. 1751. for a Col. Liv. in Norfolk, bred up at Eaton School. Fel. of King's Col. Camb. presented to the R. of Hadescoe, co. of Norfolk by King's Col. and to the R. of Toft, two small discharged Rectories.

- Thomas Barker, M. A. Elec. Ush. June 21, 1752.

- — Garthwaite. oc. Ush. Aug. 2. 1758.

- Thomas Vaughan, M. A. oc. Ush. Aug. 12, 1762.

- William Sanderson, B. A. Ush. oc. Aug. 9. 1766.

- The Poll of the Voters in No. 138, Sep. 20, 1771, at the Town-hall.

- William Holden, M. A. Curate of Morpeth 95

- William Sanderson, M. A. Usher 43

- William Holden, M. A. Elec. Sep. 20th, 1771, on the death of H. Holden his father. Never licensed by the Bishop. Meanly learned.

- The Poll of the Voters in No. 211, Apr. 24. 1772.

- William Sanderson. M. A. Ush. supported by Lord Carlisle's int. 108

- W. Walter, M A. Under Master of Newcastle School 103

- William Sanderson Elect.

Several freemen brought from London to vote on this occasion.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

†

Antonius de Bek manerium de Aukeland cum capella & Cameris suptuosissime construxit, capellanis in Capella in perpetuum servituris ecclesiam de Morpath approprians. Sed eo mortuo Radulphus filius Gulielmi dominus de Graistok patronatum illius ecclesiae per litem acquisivit, & sic Capella indotata remansit.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 334.

↵

‡

In Obitum Henrici Graii nuper de

Novo Monasterio Armig. qui obiit ultimo

Die Martii Anno Domini 1597. Posuit

Thomas Grey, filius Primogenitus

Pietatis ergo.

Underneath are the Arms of the Greys of Chillingham, with their motto,

De bon Valoir.

Below are these Stanzas.

Conditus hic Jaceo quartus genitore Radulpho

Filius ex Graio milite fic jaceo.

Nupta fuit mihi Woddringt•nia chara Maria

Militis ac clari nata Johannis ea

Una dies partus nos, ut Baptismata Una

Junxit sic Una lex hymenea toro.

Annos bis Septem sociale federe juncti

Ruperunt tetrici vincula nostra Deae

Bis binos pueros mihi, tresque Lucina Puellos

Praebuit extincti pignora chara mei.

↵

§

W. Turner, born at Morpeth, bred in Cambridge, was a general scholar, and very zealous in the protestant religion, writing much in the defence thereof, and much molested for the same by Bishop Gardener and others. After long imprisonment he escaped and fled beyond the seas. At Ferrara in Italy he commenced Doctor in Physic: he wrote an Herbal and a book of Physick for the English gentry, besides several other Treatises. He died in Germany, in the reign of Queen Mary, whose cotemporary and fellow confessor,

Thomas Gibson, born at Morpeth, wrote a book of Herbs, as also a Treatise, intitled The Treasons of the Prelates since the Conquest.

England's Worthies.

The great Antiquary J. Horsley, author of the Roman Antiq. of Britain, ob. 1732, Pastor of a dissenting Congregation at Morpeth.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*

Morpeth castle stondy the by Morpith towne, it is set on a highe hille, and about the hill is moche wood. Towne and castle belongeth to the Lord Dacres. It is well mayntayned.

Lel. Itin. vol. 7. p. 53.

Bytwixte New Castle and Morpethe litle wood grounde. Bytwyxt Morpethe and Alnewick good plenty of wood in certayne places, and many parks.

Ibid. p. 54.

↵

*

Iste Willielmus victoriosus et in omnibus hostitudiis gloriosus erat valde; et cum aedificasset castellum de Graistock, et Turrem de Morpath, et multa alia dignitatis opera, obiit apud Brampspeth, et apud Graistock sepultus est.

Escheat 33 Edw. III.

The barony of Morpeth consisted not only of the castle and lordship of the town, but has many villages members of it, as Grimwest, Ulweham, Hebscot, Schillington, Twisel, Salwick, Two Duddens, Clisten, Cladwell, Stannington, Shorton, Blakedon, north and south, Wideslad, Killingwith, Benton, and Waver.

Bourne's Hist. Newcastle.

↵

†
Camden has this remarkable relation of Morpeth. That in the year 1215 it was set on fire by the inhabitants themselves to prejudice King John, who would have rested there in his infamous excursion.
↵

‡

Ranulphus de Merlay, una cum Juliana uxor ejus, & Osberto filio ejus, sepulti sunt in boreali parte domus capituli Novi Monasterii quod Condidit.

Ex Autographo Perantiquo.

↵

§

Willielmus de Merley Omnibus, &c. Me et meos Homines dedisse & Concessisse in perpetua elemofina, unum carucatam terrae domni infirmorum de Morpathe, &c.

Monast. Angl. vol. 1.

↵

*

Cum Rogerus de Merley primus haec et alia consilia complevisset, obdormivet in Domino, et in domo Capituli Novi Monasterii cum patre suo sepultus est. Et successit ei Rogerus filius, qui dicitur Rogerus de Merley secundus.

Ex Autographo.

↵

†

Rogerus de Merley secundus, Burgam de Morpath decoravit, et multa alia opera caritativa, et post obitum suum sepultus est in Claustro ad introitum domus Capituli Novi Monasterii, Hospitali de Catchburn tunc per ipsum promoto.

Ex Autographo.

↵

*

He died 1265: an inquisition was soon after taken of his possessions, when it was found he had the following revenue, &c.

- Burgenses, Burgi pro firma burgi XI.

- Pro Piscario Salmonum in aqua de Wanspeck

- Cum felon. et stallag. XLVIs. VIIId.

- Cottingwood XLVIs. VIIId. per annum.

- East Park VII. XIIIs. IVd. per annum.

- West Park in Manu domini.

↵

†

Having no issue, he settled this barony on his kinsman Ralph Fitz William, who assumed the name and title of Ralph Lord Greystock. He founded a chantry in the church of Tynmouth, and lived to a great age. Ob. 1316, and was interred at Newsham.

By an inquisition taken at his death, he appears to have died possessed of the following estates.

£

s.

d.

The manor of Morpeth

84

5

0

of Ulgham

48

13

4

Villa of Hepescotes

20

0

0

Mediety of the Hamlet of Tramwell

14

9

Part of the villa of Horsley

10

16

6

Mediety of the villa of Stannington

9

0

0

— of Benton and the rents of Killingworth

18

13

8

Held by the service of two Knights fees, now paying only 10l. money payment, quod jacent Vastae.

A Mediety of the manors of Stiford and Heddon on the Wall, Adgerton, Dodington, with their hamlets, of the barony of Bolbeck, held by two Knights fees, of the yearly value of

80

0

0

Sed nunc nihil reddunt, quod jacent vastae.

And by another inquisition taken before the same Escheats it appears, that

The Coheiresses of Ade Barret held the manor of Walker of the manor of Morpeth in Capite, by the service of one Knight's fee, and service at the court of Morpeth, &c. and the mills of Benton ad XIII. vas. and that the aforesaid manor of Walker used to pay yearly

X Marks.

That Eliz. Conyers held the manor of Clyfton of the manor of Morpeth in Capite, by the service of one Knight's fee and suit of court, and payed

£

s.

d.

10

0

0

The heirs of Hugh Gibon held the manor of Shilvington, &c. &c.

20

0

0

Edward de Duddon, the manor of Duddon, &c. &c.

10

0

0

Hugo Cocus of Stannington, lands there, &c. &c.

10

0

0

Adam de Benton, lands at Hyrmyngfield

0

1

1

William de Camera, lands at Kyllyngworth

0

0

8½

William Prudholme, do. do. with suit of court at Benton

0

15

3

Thomas Dryng, do. do. and suit at the Lord's mill

1

10

7

Robert of the church of Morpeth, lands at Morpeth

0

8

0

John de Rukeby, ditto

0

12

6

Rogerus de Horsley, lands at Whythcome, a pound of Cumin

The advowson of the church of Morpeth of the yearly value of

10

0

0

The advowson of the church of Horsley, ditto

20

0

0

Ralph Lord Greystock, a younger son succeeded him, but died the year following, 1317, and was interred at Butterwick.

Ralph Lord Greystock died by poison at Gateshead, A. D. 1324, by the contrivance of the accomplices of Sir Gilbert de Middleton, in revenge for his being a chief instrument in apprehending him at Mitford castle. He was interred at Newcastle.

William Lord Greystock. He first married a daughter of Lord Lucy, and afterwards a daughter of Henry Fitz Hugh, Lord Ravenswath. He died A. D. 1358, and was interred at Graystock.

Ralph Lord Greystock. A great benefactor to Brinkburn and New Minster. He died A. D. 1417.

He was summoned to the parliament at Westminster 1st King Richard II. 1st and 7th King Henry IV. and to the parliament at Leicester 2d King Henry V. Die vemente proxime post festum Navitatis sancti Johannis Baptistae anno Richardi secundo quarto, apud Horsridge in Glendale, dictus baro, cum Willielmo de Aton, et aliis militibus, et multis validis, infeliciter captus est per Georgiam comitem de Dunbar; ob quod Willielmus frater ejusdem baronis missus in hostagio pro eo apud Dunbar, tactus Morbo pestilentiali mortuus est, et sepultus ibidem; sed post duos annos completos corpus ejus integra carne et pelle translatum est, et eoram summo altari in Novo Monasterio juxta Margeriam Dominam de Ulgham sepultum est. Et nihilominus dictis baro mediante malicia Johannis ducis Lancastriae, redemptus est pro MMM marcarum ad quam redemptioned Johanna Mater ejus fecit levari de Burgensibus de Morpath per manus Johanni de passenham, receptoris sui VIII. XIIIs. Xd.

John Lord Greystock married Elizabeth, one of the daughters and coheiresses of Robert Lord Wemme. He died 14th King Henry VI. and was succeeded by

Ralph Lord Greystock, married Elizabeth daughter of William Fitz Hugh Lord Ravenswath. He died ad King Henry VII. He had one son, who died in his father's life time, leaving one daughter by Elizabeth daughter of Edmund Gray Duke of Kent.

Elizabeth Baroness Greystock and Wemme. She married Thomas Lord Dacre, of Gilsland. He died 17th King Henry VIII. and was succeeded by his son,

William Lord Dacre. He died 6th Queen Elizabeth, and was succeeded by his son,

Thomas Lord Dacre. He died 9th Queen Elizabeth, and was succeeded by his son,

George Lord Dacre, who dying under age, his honors and estates descended to his two sisters Ann and Elizabeth.

Ann married Philip Earl of Arundel, eldest son of the Duke of Norfolk.

Elizabeth married Willliam Howard, of Naworth Castle, Cumberland, third son of Thomas Duke of Norfolk. He was formidable to the Moss troopers, who in derision called him Bald Willy.

His grandson Charles was created Lord Dacre of Gilsland, Viscount Morpeth, and Earl of Carlisle. He died A. D. 1684, and was succeeded by his son,

Edward Earl of Carlisle. He was succeeded by his son,

Charles Earl of Carlisle. He was succeeded by his son,

Henry Earl of Carlisle. He died. A. D. 1758, and was succeeded by his son,

Frederick Earl of Carlisle.

↵

BOTHALL,

the baronial inheritance of the family of Ogles, distant from Morpeth about four miles. This ride is extremely beautiful, lying within a little distance of the river Wansbeck, the banks of which to the south are lofty, and cloathed with fine hanging woods, through which here and there you see a bold promontory or rocky precipice. All the environs of the river to Bothal are romantic and beautiful. The castle, though placed on a considerable eminence, yet stands in a very deep vale; hanging woods forming an amphitheatre at the distance of about half a mile. Its present remains chiefly consist of the great gateway, flanked on the north side by two polygonal towers, 53 feet high; and on the south-west angle by a square turret, whose height measures 60 feet. From the towers of this gate the outward wall extends along the brink of the eminence, in a circular form, enclosing the area and interior buildings of the castle. This enclosure contains about half an acre, in which are some scattered fragments of the inner buildings, now affording no degree of certainty what were their original form and use. To the north-west of the gateway, was formerly another tower, pulled down within the memory of persons living, which bore the denomination of Ogle's Tower. The scite of this castle to the south is very lofty, on the brink of a rock, whose foot is washed by the river: the east and west sides of the eminence have been defended by a moat. Mr Grose, to his second plate of this castle, which chiefly represents the gateway tower, says, ‘the wood scene in the back ground slopes to the water's edge, here and there skirted by picturesque rocks; and in many places the trees overhang the stream, which here runs briskly, breaking against the huge stones plentifully scattered throughout its channel; at once captivating the eye, and by its gentle murmurs sweetly soothing the ear. Indeed the banks of the Wansbeck, between this place and Morpeth, afford a variety of sylvan scenes, equal in beauty to any in the kingdom.’

I must descend to more minute descriptions of the gateway with its towers;[*] they bear a certain appearance of being the most modern parts of this castle; the architecture is excellent, and the edifice built of a durable stone, well drest, and in good preservation: the ascent from the town is easy and gradual. The outward gate was defended by a portcullis; in the arching of the roof of the gateway, are three square apertures, from whence the garrison could annoy the assailants, when they had gained the first gate; a door on each hand leads to the flanking towers. On the right hand, is a passage and staircase in the southwest tower; at the foot of the stairs is a door into the prison, which is not so horrible an enclosure as most of those seen in baronial castles: it is above ground, and closely arched, having narrow apertures, like loopholes, to admit light and air from the gateway passage. Opposite to these stairs, on the other side of the gateway, is a large hall. Passing the winding stairs, we entered the state-room, above the gateway: this apartment is lighted by four windows, none of them of any considerable size; the principal one is to the north, in the centre: by means of the thickness of the wall, the recess formed for the window is benched with stone at the sides, with seats for six persons at least. From this window you view the town, the church, and a narrow vale, through which the river flows. On each side of this window, is a door leading to the chambers of the flanking towers. The fire-place, of a very spacious range, is to the east, on the left side of which is another window with a recess, benched like that before described. A third window like the two former, is to the right of the door as you enter, looking into the area of the castle; a large window to the west commands the wider part of the vale, and the fine hanging woods by which it is is bounded. Three large stones cover the apertures in the floor, which open upon the passage of the gateway. The upper rooms being more ruinous, are not so easy to describe, or their form capable of being ascertained. I walked these apartments with a veneration, proceeding from the tenderest obligations; an alliance with a lineal descendant of those illustrious families, who for ages possessed this inheritance.

In the front of the gateway, are several shields of arms arranged in the following order; which I apprehend, like those at Alnwick, perfectly point out to us the time when this part of the castle was built. In the centre, in a large shield, are the arms of England and France quarterly. It is observable that England takes the first quarter, a thing I have never observed an instance of before. On the dexter side, a shield with the arms of England, three lions passant gardant; on the sinister, a shield with the arms of the Grays, barry of six argent and azure, three torteauxes in chiefe. This denotes that the erection was made in the time of Edward IV. whose consort was a Gray, mother of Thomas Gray, who in the 15th year of that reign was created Marquis of Dorset. Beneath, in the centre, the arms of Bertram, Or, an orl, azure. On the dexter and sinister sides of this, are three shields, which denote the alliances of the Bertram family.

The first, on the dexter side, the arms of Percy

The second of Dacre

The third of Vesey, Or, a cross, sable.

The first, on the sinister side, of Darcy

The second of Hastings

The third, two lions passant gardant in a tressure; but to what family this coat armour appertains, I cannot form any probable assertion.

On the tower on the right hand of the gateway, are four shields, the chief of which is of the Ogles; but as they are greatly defaced by time, and on my view did not seem to have any material relation to the date or history of this erection, I passed them without particular attention: but on considering the matter, I am induced to believe that John Ogle, the grandson of the heiress of Bertram, and who assumed the name of Bertram, erected this gateway. In the family of Ogles afterwards mentioned, he is particularly noticed.

In the centre, on the battlement, is the figure of a man, in stone, in the attitude of sounding a horn; on the right hand tower is another figure, holding a ball between his hands: these figures are greatly injured by the weather.[*]

The scite of Bothal appears very like a Roman station: Camden says, that he had thought for some time, that the Roman Glanoventa stood on the banks of Wansbeck, garrisoned by the first cohort of the Morini; for it is seated in the range of the wall, where the Notitia places it: the river's name is Wants-beck, and Glanoventa, in the British tongue, signifieth THE SHORE OR BANKS OF VENTA. Mr Grose has the following remarks on the Bertrams, the original possessors of this castle. ‘ Richard Bertram, who lived about the time of King Henry II. gave two sheaves, or two third parts of the tithes of this barony to the Monks of Tinmouth. ’ (In Bourne's History of Newcastle, it is said, ‘being a devout man, he gave two shares, i. e. two third parts of the titles of it, to the Monks.’) ‘His son Robert obtained of King Richard I. that his manor with its dependencies should be raised to a barony; and it is mentioned as such, in that ancient record, remaining with the King's Remembrancer in the Exchequer, called Testa de Nevil, from its being compiled by Jollan de Nevil, who was a Justice Itinerant in the 18th and 24th years of King Henry III. It contains the King's fees through the greatest part of England, with inquisitions of lands escheated and serjeantries.’

‘This barony was held by Robert of the King in capite, by the service of three Knights fees, as his ancestors had formerly held it; the said lands being de veteri feofmento, and paying yearly for the castle guard at Newcastle upon Tyne for cornage 5l. 15s. 4d.’

‘Robert was succeeded by his son Roger, who procured a charter for free warren, for all his demesne lands here and at Heburn in this county. His heirs enjoyed the barony for some successions, without making any additions to its grandeur; but Robert Bertram being in the reign of King Edward III. constituted Sheriff of Northumberland and Governor of Newcastle upon Tyne, obtained a licence of that King to make a castle of his manor house at Bothal. ’

Robert having no issue male, his daughter and heiress, Helen, marrying Sir Robert Ogle, of Ogle, Knight, transferred this barony to his family. Robert their son, after the death of his mother, settled the same upon his youngest son John; his paternal estate he bequeathed to his eldest son Robert, who suffered his brother to enjoy the barony of Bothal for a short time only, for soon after his father's death, with 200 armed men, he took forcible possession of the castle, under pretence of its being his birth-right: but on complaint to parliament, a writ was issued to the Sheriff of Northumberland, directing him to reinstate the complainant, and commanding Robert to appear at Westminster on a certain day, to answer for this misdemeanor.[*] This John, who took the name of Bertram, was afterwards knighted, and was several times Sheriff of Northumberland in the reign of King Henry VI.
[*]

The family of Ogle was of great antiquity in the county of Northumberland, where they were possessed of an extensive property, antecedent to their intermarriage with the heiress of Bertram. Humphrey Ogle, Esq lived at Ogle Castle at the time of the conquest.[†] This family held the manor of Unthank, with lands in Gilcroft and Raleigh, for several generations. Sir Robert Ogle, by marriage with Helen the daughter and heiress of Sir Robert Bertram, in the reign of King Edward III. became possessed of the barony of Bothall. [‡]

There was issue of this marriage, Sir Robert Ogle, who married Matilda the daughter of Sir Thomas Gray of Wark, by Alice daughter of Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmoreland.

He was succeeded by Sir Robert, who was created by King Henry VI. Baron of Bothall and the 1st Lord Ogle, [§] an ardent adherent in the conflicts between the houses of York and Lancaster. He married Isabella daughter and heiress of Sir Alexander de Kirby, by Johann daughter to Sir Thomas Tunstall.

Owen Lord Ogle their son married Eleanor daughter of Sir William Hilton, and had issue,

Ralph the 3d Lord Ogle, [*] who married Margaret the daughter of Sir William Gascoin, and had issue,

Robert the 4th Lord Ogle, who married Ann the daughter of Thomas Lord Lumley, by Elizabeth Plantagenet, daughter of King Edward IV. by the Lady Lucy, and had issue,

Robert the 5th Lord Ogle, who died in the battle at Hallydon-rigg, in Scotland. He was twice married; first to Dorothy daughter of Sir Henry Widdrington; his second wife was Johann, daughter of Sir Cuthbert Radcliff, by both of whom he had issue. By Dorothy he had

Robert the 6th Lord Ogle, who married Jane the daughter of Sir Thomas Maleverer, but died without issue. By the second wife Johann, the 5th Lord Ogle had issue,

Cuthbert the 7th and last Lord Ogle, who married Catharine the daughter and heiress of Sir Reginald Carnaby, and had issue two daughters, Johanna and Catharine.

Johanna married to Edward Talbot, Esq younger son to the Earl of Shrewsbury.

Catharine married to Charles Cavendish of Wellbeck, in Nottinghamshire, Knight. She was created Baroness Ogle. Her son, Sir William Cavendish, was made Knight of the Bath, A. D. 1610, 6th of King James I. Baron Ogle of Ogle, and Viscount Mansfield, in the 18th year of that reign; Baron Bertram and Belsover, and Earl of Newcastle, 3d King Charles I. Marquis of Newcastle, the 19th year of the same reign; Earl of Ogle and Duke of Newcastle, 16th King Charles II. 1664. In the civil

wars having espoused the royal cause,[*] and being obliged to fly for refuge to foreign parts, his estates were put under sequestration, and some of them sold: he with six others were excepted from the general pardon. At the restoration, he was reinstated in his possessions; and having an only daughter, she married John Hollis, Duke of Newcastle, who in her right became possessed of the castle of Bothall. He died by a fall from his horse, A. D. 1711, leaving an only daughter, who married Edward Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. These possessions devolved on their only daughter and heiress, Lady Margaret Cavendish Herley, who married his Grace William the late Duke of Portland, whose eldest son, now Duke of Portland, is the present proprietor.

The parochial church stands at a little distance from the castle: in tablets on the wall, in the old black letter, are painted the genealogy of the Ogles. [†] There is a fine marble tomb of one of the Ogles and his Lady, with their effigies recumbent. I presume the personages there represented are Sir Robert Ogle and his wife, the Baroness Bertram. His effigy is cloathed in a coat of mail, the hands elevated, about his neck a chain, with a cross pendant on his bosom, his hair cut over his forehead and round by his ears, his head supported on his crest a bull's head, his feet rested against a curled water dog. Her effigy is dressed in a long robe, which conceals her feet; over her head and shoulders a mantle flowing back, her hands elevated, her head supported by a cushion tasselled at the corners, kept by two Esquires in their proper habiliments, each holding a tassel; on the lap of her robe a small Italian greyhound. A sword sheathed lies between these effigies. At the head of the tomb, in niches ornamented with tabernacle-work, are four Ecclesiastics, their crowns shaven, and with hands elevated; at a corner, an inclining shield, supported on the dexter side by a lion collared and chained, and on the sinister side, by a monkey chained by the waste. The shield of arms is so singular, that I have caused it to be engraved with the effigies.

On the banks of Wansbeck, near to Bothall, are the ruins of an ancient chapel or oratory, said to be dedicated to the blessed Virgin. The situation is admirably calculated for meditation, being in a shady solitude. By the arms on the wall, it appears to have been built by the family of Ogles. The erection is all of well-wrought free stone; its dimensions within, eight yards in length, and four in breadth; the roof, now gone to decay, was arched with stone, after a curious form, as appears by its remains. It is now grown over with trees, which have struck their roots into the joints and chasms of the building.

In passing to Ashington, the family seat of the Crows, we had a view of

Notes

*
This gate-way is of the same model as the gate of Alnwick castle, and by its architecture and ornaments appears to be nearly of the same date.
↵

*

The following curious survey of this castle was published in the Antiquarian Repertory.

The following extract is copied from a survey called the book of Bothool Baronrye, in Northumberland, most beautifully written, and in high preservation, the property of his Grace the Duke of Portland, to whom that barony now belongs. It was taken the 20th day of June; 1576, by Cuthbert Carnable, Robert Maddison, and John Lawson, tenants to that manor, by virtue of a commission granted by Cuthbert Lord Ogle, and directed to the afore-named Cuthbert Carnabie, Robert Maddison, Jacob Ogle, Esqrs Anthony Ratcliff and John Lawson, Gents. the whole 5, or any 4, 3, or 2 of them. Dated at Bothole the 6th day of May in the said year.

To this manor of Bothoole belongeth ane Castell in circumference cccclxxxx foote, wharto belongeth ane Castell, great chaulmer, parler, vij bed chaulmers, one galare, butterie, pantrie, lardenor, kitchinge, backhouse, brewhouse, a stable, an court called the yethouse, wharin thare is a prison, a porter loge, and diverse faire chaulmering, an common stable, and a towre called Blanke Towre, a gardine, ane nurice, chapel, and an towre called Ogle's Towre and Pastrie, with many other prittie beauldings here not specified, faire gardinges and orchetts, wharin growes all kind of hearbes and flowres, and fine appiles, plumbes of all kynde, peers, damfellis, nuttes, wardens, cherries, to the black and reede, wallnutes, and also licores verie fyne, worth by the yeare XXL.

↵

*

Pateat universis &c me Robtm Ogle militem constituiffe &c Wm Bertram Rob̄tm Reymes Robt̄m Mitford Armiḡes & Wm Lawson Attornat ad intrand. &c in toto Manerio de North Midleton &c in Com. Northumb̄ cum oībis Terris &c qe nuper fuerunt Rob̄ti de Ogle patris mei in praedicta villa ad deliberand. pro me et noīe meo Johanni Ogle Fratri meo plenam & pacificam seisin. &c habend. sibi et assignatis suis secundum Cartam feoffamenti eidem Johi inde fact. date est sicut dat. presentu. &c dat. 11o. Sep. 33. Hen. 6. In the Collection of W. H.

↵

*
Henricus Comes Northumbrie & Dn̄s Honoris de Cockermouth oib̄s ad quos, &c. Sciatis, me bro bono & fideli servitio qd dilectus serviter mē Johanes Ogle Armiger nobis ante hec Tempora impendit & imposterum impendit dedisse, &c. Confirmasse eidem Jōni totum Dominum ac Manerium nr̄m de Foxdon in Com Northmb. Hebendm̄, &c. sibi absq. aliquo redditu sive forina, &c. ad Term̄nm vitae suae in Cugus rei, &c. Datte apud Petteworth, 12 Octb. 28 King Henry VI.
↵

†
William the Conqueror, by his deed without date, confirmed to Humphrey all the liberties and royalties of his manor of Ogle, in as ample a manner as any of his ancestors had enjoyed the same before the time of the Normans.
↵

‡

Sir Robert Bertram's Lady survived him, and married John De Hatfield.

Mr Wallis mentions the following personages, which are unnoticed in a pedigree of the family in the author's possession, made out at the herald's office.

Sir Robert de Ogle, who married Johanna the youngest daughter and coheiress of Sir Alan de Heton, of Edlingham, as by an inquisition taken 21 King Richard II.

Sir Robert de Ogle, High Sheriff of Northumberland 16 King Henry VI.

The title of the first Lord Ogle, he says, was Baron Ogle, of Ogle.

↵

§
He had a brother John, who settled in Lancashire, and had great possession. This line is also now reduced to female representation.
↵

*
He was at the battle of Branxton.
↵

*
He repaired and put into a defensible state Newcastle and the castle and haven of Tynmouth; raised a regiment of 1000 men at his own charge; he had a chief command at the battle of Bradford, where the forces of Fairfax were routed, he took 22 pieces of cannon, and many standards; at the battle of Marston Moor he was at the head of his regiment, where, disdaining to ask quarter, the Northumbrians sold their lives dear to the parliamentary troops.
↵

†
Of whom there were seven Lords and thirty Knights. This Genealogical Table begins with Humphrey Ogle, of Ogle Castle, at the time of the Conquest.
↵

SHIPWASH,

where the Rectory-house stands appertaining to the parish of Bothall, lately honoured by the residence of the most excellent Prelate, his Grace the Hon. and Right Rev. Dr. Drummond, late Lord Archbishop of York. He was the second son of the Right Hon. George Hay, Earl of Kinnoul, and brother to the present, whose illustrious ancestors are recorded for their virtues and military atchievements, in the annals of their country. He was a man of deep erudition, an excellent pastor, a steady loyalist, and a statesman of unbiassed integrity. He mixed affability with dignity, and at the same time he commanded reverence he was courteous. In his archiepiscopal character, he was rigid, yet easy of access; and as he was benevolent, so was he slow of condemnation. He constantly avoided the bustle of greatness, and in his country retreat, putting off the dignity of his office, he was distinguished as a generous friend, an inimitable parent, and a gracious neighbour. He was a student in Christ Church College, Oxford, and had the degree of Doctor in Divinity 27th June, 1745. He took the name and arms of Drummond, as heir intail to his great grandfather, William Drummond, Viscount Strathallan. He married Henrietta daughter of Peter Auriol, Esq Merchant, of the city of London, by whom he had issue three sons and two daughters. He became Chaplain to King George II. in August, 1727; was installed Prebendary of Westminster 29th April, 1743; and consecrated Bishop of St. Asaph 24th April, 1748: he was afterwards translated to Sarum, and made Archbishop of York in 1761; in the same year he was made Lord High Almoner to the King, and one of his Majesty's Most Hon. Privy Council.

The mother church, it is said, formerly stood here. At a little distance lies the port of

CAMBOIS,

at the mouth of the river Wansbeck, a haven with two quays on the north shore for small vessels, about 30 tons burthen, employed in the export of corn and grindstones, and in importing timber.[*] Many lime boats from the adjacent coasts resort to this place. The cliffs by the sea, called the Hawk's Hugh, are rude and majestic. There is a cavern towards the north end, well known to smugglers. The situation of

Notes

*
The principal proprietors are Sir Thomas Clavering, Bart. and Matthew Ridley, Esq.
↵

ASHINGTON,

and the prospect from thence, are delightful: the banks of Wansbeck are finely wooded, and on every hand you look upon a rich cultivated country. The objects disposed on these scenes are various and beautiful: the nearer are woodlands, rocks, and cultivated eminences, scattered over with hamlets; the streams of Wansbeck, enlivened by people employed in the Salmon Fishery, and graced with the bridge of Shipwash and the fishing vessels: the more distant are Bebside and the port of Cambois, Seaton Delaval, and the sea. Ashington was one of the dependent manors of the barony of Bothall. [†]

Approaching the sea coast, we viewed

Notes

†
Near this place is a spring called St Margaret's well, but without any medicinal qualities. Its name derived from days of superstition, when, for every trifle, places and things were beatified by the churchmen.
↵

NEWBIGGIN,

a fine bay for shipping, secured from the stormy quarters by high rocky promontories, and capable of receiving vessels of 60 tons burthen. The town is small, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen. There are several granaries for corn here. This whole coast is enlivened by trade, and opulence is dispensed on every side by the hand of industry. Human nature is capable of vast works; the capacity of man is infinite, the further it is exerted, the more is discovered for the advancement of its occupation. The more our faculties are employed, the nearer we approach to a similarity of the divine being, in whose image man was created in the beginning. To let our time elapse whilst our rational powers sleep in indolence, is highly criminal; it is a prodigality of all others the worst; denying birth to those good works we owe to ourselves, and to mankind at large. In the bay ships ride in six or seven fathom of water.

The church stands on the north side of the haven, on a point of land which projects a considerable way into the sea; and it is said there are the remains of a pier there. This church was formerly a much more considerable edifice, now the middle aile and steeple with a spire only remaining: which circumstances give rise to an idea, that Newbiggin and its haven were in some former age of more considerable importance. The spire is a mark to Seamen, of great use to ships coming from the North and Baltic Seas, as a direction for their southward course. The ornament of the altar seems to have been a devoted gift by some Seaman who had escaped the perils of the ocean, being the King's arms carved in wood for the stern-piece of a ship.

We passed the house of

CRESWELL,

one of the ancient members of the barony of Bywell, the family seat of Creswells from the time of King John.[*] Like most of the old Northumbrian mansions, this was defended by a tower, part of which remains. The village of Creswell lies at a little distance, chiefly inhabited by fishermen.

Notes

*

- Robert de Cresswell King John

- Simon King Henry III.

- Roger 21 King Edward I.

- Robert King Edward II.

- Alexander 43 King Edward III. and

- Alexander 2d King Richard II.

- John 10th King Richard II.

- John King Henry V.

- George King Henry VII.

- Robert King Henry VII.

- Oswin Queen Elizabeth.

- John Queen Elizabeth.

- John King James I.

- John

- William

- William

- John the present poffessor

Wallis.

↵

WIDDRINGTON CASTLE,

the possession of Sir George Warren, Knight of the Bath, in the next place engaged our attention, seated on an eminence commanding a view of Coquet Island and the sea.[*]

This was the ancient seat of the Widdringtons, and by the attainder of William Lord Widdrington in 1715, came to the Crown. Royal mercy being extended to him, he did not suffer death with Lord Derwent water and his associates, but was divested of his honours and estates.

We find by ancient records, that Gerard de Widdrington [†] was settled here in the reign of King Edward I. and his descendants continued in possession till the degradation of the family at the above-mentioned period.

We advanced westward to

Notes

*
Since the Author's tour this fine mansion was destroyed by fire, said to be occasioned by the negligence of workmen.
↵

†

- Gerard de Widdrington 1st King Edward I.

- Sir Roger 36th. King Edward III. High Sheriff of Northumberland.

- Sir John 22 King Richard II. High Sheriff 11th King Henry IV. and 4th and 8th of King Henry VI.

- Sir Roger 10th, 14th, and 21st King Henry VI. High Sheriff.

- Gerard 5th King Edward IV. High Sheriff.

- John 12th, 13th, 14th King Edward IV. High Sheriff.

- Sir John 32d King Henry VIII. 6th King Edward VI. and 1st Queen Elizabeth, High Sheriff.

- Sir Henry 21st Queen Elizabeth, and 3d King James I. High Sheriff. One of the Representatives of the county in Parliament 1st, 12th, and 18th King James I.

- Sir William 12th King Charles I. High Sheriff. A Representative in Parliament for this county 15th, 16th, and 17th of same reign; one of the 56 who voted to save Earl Strafford; was committed to the Tower for introducing candles into the house without a previous order. He was expelled the house A. D. 1642, for refusing to attend, and raising forces for the King; was created Baron Widdrington 1643. After the battle of Marston Moor, he fled. On the King's march to Worcester, he staid at Wigan, in Lancashire, with Earl Derby and about 200 horse, where they were surprized by the Parliament forces at day break, when he disdained to be a prisoner or take quarter.

- William Lord Widdrington his son, was one of the Council of State on the restoration.

- William Lord Widdrington his son. On his attainder, his effects were computed at 100,000l.

- Henry his son. His seat at Stella on Tyne.

Wallis.

↵

CAWSEY PARK,

a member of the barony of Bothall, and the inheritance of a younger branch of the noble family of Ogle, now the seat of Bernard Shaw, Esq by his marrying the widow of William Ogle, Esq This was the mansion of John Ogle, who appears to have erected it, as the old tower still retains the initial letters of his name.[*] There were many collateral branches of the noble family of Ogle, whose pedigrees would not be esteemed sufficiently pertinent to hold a place in this work.

Henry Ogle, brother of the late William Ogle, founded a School here for 30 children, and endowed it with a small piece of ground and 300l. in money, for a stipend for the master.

Humphrey of this line of the family of Ogles, was Dean of Hereford and one of the Society of Brazen Nose College, Oxford, where he founded two Scholarships in favour of the heirs of his brother Roger.

The house has no great beauty of situation, it is surrounded with a cultivated country, and has pleasant gardens, fish-ponds, and other artificial ornaments, which greatly contribute to make it a pleasant retirement.

Notes

*

The date thereon 1589.

His wife was interred in Bothall church, and her tomb has the following inscription:

Here lyeth Catharine the wife of John Ogle,

of Cawsey Park Esqr. daughter of

Robert Woodrington Esqr. by

Margaret his wife, which Margaret was sister to

Robert the 6th and Cothbert the 7th Lord Ogle.

She died May 23d, 1609.

James their son was interred in the church of St. Andrew, in Newcastle upon Tyne; the following inscription on his tomb:

Hic jacet Jacobus Ogle de Causey Park in Comitatu Northumbr. Armiger. Antiquitate Domus, utpote et praenobili Baronia Ogle de Ogle, stirpe recta linea oriundus, verè clarus. Sed invicta in, perduelles, grassantibus nuperis civilibus Bellis, animi magnitudine, constantia in regem, etiam in tristissimo authoritatis deliquio fidelitate, in superiores observantia, in pares comitate, in inferiores benignitate, quae omnia justissimo titulo sua vocare poterat, multo illustrior. Obiit Dec. 4 die, annoque Dom. 1664.

↵

LONGHORSLEY.

This manor was given by Gospatrick Earl of Dunbar to Sir Ralph Merley Baron of Morpeth, as part of the dowery of Julian his daughter. Roger de Merley granted part of these possessions to Adam de Plesis; and the heirs of his body, in the reign of King Henry III. The family of Horsleys held lands within this manor from distant ages.[*] The church stands at a distance from the town, and belonged to the priory of Brinkburn. [†]

In our return to Morpeth, our resting place from these little, excursions, we viewed

Notes

*

- John de Horsley 1 King Edward III.

- Richard 37, 43, 44, 45 King Edward III. High Sheriff.

- John King Henry VI.

- Sir John 1 King Edward VI. knighted after the victory at Musselburgh.

- Cuthbert 1 Queen Mary. Representative in Parliament for Northumberland, and for the borough of Morpeth, 2d and 3d same reign.

- Edward Horsley Widdrington, whose only daughter and heir married Thomas Riddell, Esq of Swinburn Castle.

Wallis.

↵

†
Mr Wallis says, that the Lord of this manor compelled all the tenants within the manor to keep the ways and ditches round their grounds in good order, on pain of being whipped the day after his court was held. As his authority for this strange penalty, he quotes the Autographo Perantiquo,
Et iste est Rogerus, qui subditos suos in Horsley ad vias et fossatas circa Campos de Horsley bene conservandas et diligenter sustentandas, tractare statuit. Et quod quicunque convictus fuerit de aliquo fragmento in fossatis vel viis praedictis in Campo suo tenetur ibidem in crastino inventionis sanctae crucis, et crastino sancti Martini in hieme, et reddet domino suo pro quolibet delicto suo duas Virgas serveas quoties inde convictus fuerit.
I conceive Mr Wallis has mistranscribed the word serveas; how he renders the sentence to make it imply such a penalty as he has stated, even allowing the word serveas to be right, I know not. The Virga serrea was a royal standard measure kept in the Exchequer; and it is most probable the penalty inflicted on the tenants of Horsley was a forfeiture, meeted by the Virga ferrea.

↵

COCKLE PARK TOWER,

which stands about four miles north from Morpeth. In the time of King Edward I. it was the mansion-house of a branch, of the family of Bertrams, built according to the fashion of most of the ancient capital dwellings in this county, as a stronghold not only for the family, but a place of security for the tenants with their flocks and herds, at the times of incursions of the Scots, or ravages by the banditti called the Moss Troopers.

From Morpeth, our next tour was by Whalton to Ogle Castle.

WHALTON

was the barony of Walter Fitz William, who came into England with the Conqueror. It was afterwards the possession of Robert de Crammaville, whom King John divested, and afterwards gave his estates, together with Warkworth, to Roger Fitz Roger, an ancester of the noble family of Clavering. It afterwards came to the family of Scroops, of Masham,[*] in the reign of King Edward III. and continued therein till the reign of King Henry VI.

Notes

*

- Sir Henry le Scrope 20 King Edward III.

- Sir Stephen King Richard II.

- Sir Henry 8 King Henry IV.

- Sir John King Henry V.

- Sir Thomas 25 King Henry VI.

Wallis.

↵

OGLE CASTLE

was the manor and seat of the family of Ogles before the conquest, as I have mentioned before: it is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Portland, having attained the barony of Bothall in the descent from Cuthbert the 7th Lord Ogle. The situation is good, on an eminence on the south banks of Blyth. There are very little remains of the old castle; part of a circular tower adjoins to the east of the present farm house, which stands on the scite of the castle: the windows of this tower are very small, topped with pointed arches, the whole remains carrying a countenance of very remote antiquity. The ground wherein the chief part of the castle has stood is square, guarded by a double moat, divided by a breastwork of mason-work. The walls are quite levelled with the ground, and the moat almost grown up.

Mr Wallis says, that it appears by an ancient pedigree at Bothall Castle, transcribed by Robert Treswell, Somerset Herald, A. D. 1598, by permission of Cuthbert Lord Ogle, that Walter Fitz William came into England with the Conqueror, to whom the King gave the barony of Whalton; and that Walter, by deed, granted to Humphrey de Ogle all such lands and liberties, as he or any of his predecessors had before the coming of the Normans, notwithstanding the royal grant of Whalton, and any claims he might make there under.

In the reign of King Henry III. and King Edward I. Thomas de Ogle was possessed of Ogle Castle, as appears by several escheats. Sir Robert Ogle in the time of King Edward III. resided here, before his marriage with the heiress of the Bertram family. By patent he held the bailiwick of the dominion of Tynedale. He had licence from the Crown to rebuild the Castle of Ogle. In 1327, he attended the King in the camp of Stanhope Park; in 1346, he was at the battle of Nevil's Cross; in 1355, he was Governor of the castle of Berwick during the siege, in which his brother Alexander was slain.[*]

We passed by

Notes

*
From Ogle Castle you command a pretty view of Belsey Castle.
↵

KIRKLEY,

a dependent manor on the ancient barony of Mitford; for some ages past the seat of a branch of the noble family of Ogle, now the possession of Dr. Newton Ogle, Prebendary of Durham, and nephew to Admiral Ogle. The mansion house makes a handsome appearance, being a square building, with flanks or wings consisting of offices. The south front commands no remarkable prospect, the country irregular, and not in the highest cultivation, without any picturesque scene, or ornamental object; but this is amply compensated by the view to the east, which is extensive, and affords a landskip equal to any in this part of the county.

Kirkley was anciently the seat of the Eures or Evers, who held great possessions in the county of Durham, and had their castle at Witton. They held this manor by the service of presenting a barbed arrow on St. John Baptist's day, at the court of the castle of Mitford. [†]

Notes

†

- John de Eure—aiding the Scots against King Edward II. His lands after his death, then in possession of Sir John his son, were seized to the use of the crown.

- Sir John — doth not appear to have had restitution of his inheritance.

- Sir Ralph — 5 King Richard II. member of parliament for Northumberland. In him the estates appear to be restored.

- Sir William — 15th King Henry VI. High Sheriff of Northumberland.

- Sir Ralph — 19th King Henry VII. High Sheriff. 28th King Henry VIII. he was Lord Warden of the East Marches, and kept the borders in profound peace. He, with his friends, tenants, and servants, maintained the castle of Scarborough for six weeks against the northern rebels; the garrison living for 20 days on bread and water—a duty performed through affection and not office. 36 King Henry VIII. he joined the royal army in Scotland with 5000 light horse, and rendered singular services—37th of the same reign he was slain at Halidon Rigg, with Lord Ogle.

- Sir William — Was raised to the peerage in the same reign, was Deputy Warden of the East Marches 6th King Edward VI. was a General of the army against Scotland commanded by Earl Sussex 12th Queen Elizabeth.

- William Lord Eure—sometime Governor of the Middle Marches.

Wallis.

↵

PONTELAND

is in a very low situation on the banks of the river Pont, from which it derives its name: it was part of the ancient possessions of the Barons of Mitford, and by an inquisition taken at Newcastle, 14th September, 10th King Edward II. is noted as part of the property of Adomar de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. This place is mentioned in history for the congress held in 1244, the 28th King Henry III. when peace was settled between England and Scotland through the negotiations of the Prior of Tynemouth. The church is in the form of a cross, and was formerly collegiate.[*] Gilbert, Parson of Esland, was a witness, with others, to the first charter of St. Mary's Hospital in Newcastle, about the year 1190.

At the west end of the church is a gallery, on the front of which is the following inscription in gold letters: Mr Richard Coates died January 3d, 1719,

And left his whole effects, at or about 70l. per annum, to the parish of Pont Island for a Charity School; the Rev. Mr Byne, Vicar of Pont Island; the Rev. Mr Forster, of St John's, in Newcastle, and Mr Charles Clarke, Attorney in Newcastle, being with their successors left Trustees for ever to see it justly applied.

On the south end of the gallery is another inscription in black letters:

Mrs Barbara Coates built the school-house and erected this gallery at her own charge, after her husband's decease.[†]

Camden [*] from the name of this place was induced to believe it was the Roman Pons Aelii, by more modern Antiquaries fixed at Newcastle.

Notes

*

A. D. 1291 in the Lincoln Taxation is the following estimate of this Collegiate Church.

- Ponteland Rectoria XXXl. XIId.

- Prebanda dom. Carol de Bellamont XXIIl.

- Prebenda Philipi de Wyleby XXl. Xs.

↵

†

N. B. 27l. per annum is only applied to the use of this School.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*

Pons Elii in libro Notitiae statio est Tribuni Cohortis Cornoviorum Etiam hodie depravata voce Pont Eleand dicitur, tanquam Pons Elianus atq. ultra Elij Hadriani vallum, est in Otodinis, ad fluviolum de suo nomine hodie Pont appellatum.

Baxti. Gloss. ad. v. 6.

↵

WOLSINGTON

lies at some little distance, lately the property of the family of Jenisons: it was a manor and part of the possessions of the priory of Tynemouth, is in a delightful situation, now the seat of Matthew Bell, Esq

The prospect over this part of the county, at the turnpike bar, is so extraordinary, that I cannot forbear pointing it out to future ramblers. Ponteland is seated in the depth of the vale, shrouded with a pretty grove; Esland Hall crowns the right hand eminence, beyond which the elegant house of Gosforth, surrounded by rising plantations, fills the more distant landskip; the neat house at Beanridge to the left, contrasted by Berwick town, of Scotch aspect, whose black thatched cottages stretch along the neighbouring hill. One of the wings of Dr. Ogle's house at Kirkley is seen through the trees, the white front, and deep coloured shade of the plantations, forming an agreeable mixture. The town of Ogle stands on an eminence in front, over which Whalton is seen, and the whole back ground is formed by the rugged rocks of Rothbury, which give a rude and distant horizon.

We passed over the great north road to

GOSFORTH,

an elegant new building, of Pain's architecture, the seat of Charles Brandling, Esq [†] surrounded with rising plantations. No place in the county of Northumberland better ascertains the improvements of which the northern lands are capable: Minister Acres was shut in on every side by a desert, which within a few years has been converted into beautiful plantations; but the great advancement which has taken place here is almost incredible, and the noble works which now fill a tract of land that was covered with heath, and had all the dreary aspect of barrenness and waste, are astonishing. No man is more valuable to the commonwealth, than he who applies his opulence in the improvements of agriculture: the produce of our lands is a staple of which we cannot be robbed by foreign enemies; a treasure which no change in the balance of Europe can waste; an intestine wealth, which will give power without the jeopardies attending common merchandize; the increase will ever find an efflux to states which cannot support their numbers by the produce of their own land, and will ever secure an influx of wealth. Our lands afford a perpetual supply of trade; the goods derived from manual occupations, are the objects of fluctuating taste; and when Birmingham and Wolverhampton shall no longer bear the laborious anvil, our wool, our corn and cattle will remain a lasting source of wealth. Manual occupations are transferrable, and in future ages may and will be moved from their present seats, and take place in other kingdoms and distant quarters of the earth; but the produce of lands, as they are local, so are they universally necessary; those of our climate in particular: others produce the luxuries we seek, but ours the necessaries every climate requires. To Mr Brandling every lover of his country must return thanks for the example he has given, to spur on emulation for improvement, by proving the certainty of the effect. Gosforth was formerly part of the possessions of the family of Surtees, [*] held of the Crown by the service of half a Knight's fee: it came to the predecessors of the present owner some little time before the reign of King Edward VI.[*]

We passed by

Notes

†

This family possessed Felling, in the county of Durham.

Memorand. quod anno Dni Millimo sexcentemo. quarto die Mensis Aprilis XXIIIo, Robertus Brandling de felling in Com. Dunelm. Ar. fecit homagiu et fidelitatem Mro Willimo James theologiae professori Decano et Captlo Dunelm Cathis Eccliae Xpi et btae Mariae Virginis & Manerio de Felling prdict. suis otinen quod tenetur de Decano & Captlo Dunelm {per} servitium Militare et coem sectam ad liberam Curiam eorund. Decani et Captlo dequindena in quindenam et reddendo pro scutagio qu•ndo ponitur {per} patriam iiijs. quando scutagiu currit ad xls. et plus et redd. ad Scaccariu Decani et Captlo. pd {per} annum xxvis. viijd. act. in magna Camera infra Aedes. Decanatus Dunelm. in putia mei Thomae King Notarii pubci. Dcoru Decani et Captlo Regraij, pntibus etiam tunc et ibm.

Sic subscript.

- Anthony Disney

- James Temple

- John Horssie

- Thomas Caldwall

- Robert Massam

Deo Roberto Brandling flexis genibus sic dicente.

I do become yours and the Chapters man from this day forward for life, and member, and for earthly honour, and to you shall be faithful and loyal and shall beare faith to you for the lands which I do claime to hold of you, saving the faith I owe to our Soveraigne Lord the King, and to such other Lords as I hold of.

↵

*

Surtees were possessed of Gosforth from the time of King Henry I.

- Richard Surtees King Henry III.

- Ralph 1 King Edward I.

- Thomas 47 King Edward III. High Sheriff, also 2 King Richard II.

- Thomas 8 & 9 King Henry V. High Sheriff.

Wallis.

↵

*

- Sir Robert Brandling 1 King Edward VI. created a Knight banneret after the defeat of the Scots near Musselburg. A representative in parliament for Newcastle on Tyne in the year 1547, and also in the 1st, 2d, and 3d years of Queen Mary, and 5 Queen Elizabeth.

- Sir Robert 15th James I. High Sheriff. A representative in parliament for Morpeth the 18th of the same reign.

- Sir Francis 21 King James I. A representative in parliament for the county of Northumberland 21st King James, and 1st King Charles I. and High Sheriff 6th of the same reign.

Wallis.

↵

BLAGDON,

the seat of Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. a handsome square building, in the mode of architecture, and with such ornaments as prevailed in the close of the last century. It is covered with fine plantations.

This was anciently one of the manors of the barony of Morpeth, held by John de Plesses, as appears by the escheats of King Edward I. Plesses was a benefactor to Newminster. A fee for cornage, of 1s. 1½d. yearly, on the feast of St. Cuthbert, was anciently paid out of this manor.

At the distance of two miles, we passed

STANNINGTON,

another dependent manor of the barony of Morpeth, anciently called Cooks Land. It was chargeable with a cornage rent, payable on the day of St. Cuthbert. The church stands on the north side of the village. One of the Merleys, Baron of Morpeth, founded a chantry here, with several endowments.[†] The advowson of the church of Stannington was given by Roger de Somerville to the priory of Newminster.

Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. in the summer 1772, decorated the chancel windows, which are of the true old Gothic taste, with some curious painted glass, finely coloured, of various scriptural designs and arms of religious houses, supposed to be 500 years old.

We took our next departure from Morpeth, to visit Tynemouth. In this rout we passed through

Notes

†

This Chantry was dedicated to the blessed Virgin, for one Chaplain, to be nominated by the Archdeacon of Northumberland for the time being.

A Crost on the south side of the church, with pasture for 4 cows and 30 ewes, with their followers of one year old.

10 acres of Land, and half a Ploughland in Clifton, and 20 acres in Coldwell, to be held of the Priory of Hexham, at 1s. 6d. rent.

3 Oxgangs of Land in Coldwell, with Common of Pasture in Clifton and Coldwell, to hold of Gilbert Coniers and his heirs at 1s. rent.

A Silver Chalice, gilt, of the value of 23s. also vestments for the Chaplain.

The Grant of the Lands is witnessed by Hugone de Bolbeck, Eustachio de la Vale, Rogero Bertram de Bethall, Johanne de Plesses, Adam Barret, Johanne filio Simonis, Thoma de Ogle, Willielmo de Horsley, Richardo de Saltwick, Willielme filio Radulphi, Adam de Plesses, Nicholas de Beckrig, Walter de Witton, & aliis, and concludes thus, "Ista charta et Chirograffata in quatuor partes. Unam partem habeo penes me et haeredes meos cum sigillo Archidiaconi Northumbriae. Aliam partem habet capellanus penes se sigillo meo signatum. Tertia pars apud Tynemouth, est in Custodia prioris et Conventus. Et quarta pars est in Custodia prioris et Conventus Dunelmiae Ecclesiae."

↵

BEDLINGTON,

part of the territories called the patrimony of St. Cuthbert, and a manor belonging to the See of Durham, which, as an exclusive liberty, obtained the appellation of the shire of Bedlington. It is bounded by the rivers Blyth on the south, and Wansbeck on the north. In all matters of law and civil jurisdiction, it is a member of the county palatine, and (as I mentioned before when speaking of Norham) anciently had courts and officers of justice within its own limits, appointed under commission from the Bishop of Durham, as well Justices, Sheriffs, Escheators, as Coroners, and all other officers of justice. The statute made in the 27th year of King Henry VIII. divested the palatine of those royal franchises, and resumed the same to the Crown.[*] An ancient offering to the Hospital of St. Giles, in Durham, of a thrave of corn out of every plough land for the relief of Pilgrims, about the time of King Richard II. was granted by the land owners, payable on the feast of St. Michael. It was afterwards compounded for a money payment.

The town of Bedlington is in a low but pleasant situation; it consists of one long street. The church is an ancient structure, but has no monuments of note.

In the year 1659, when the lands belonging to the See of Durham were put up to sale by the Parliament, this manor, with Choppington farm, were purchased by Robert Fenwick, Esq for 1296l. 5½d.[*]

Near this place is a considerable iron foundery.

Notes

*

Copyhold Books H. Page 227. Fox. 1498.

Cur. ap. Bedlington xviijo. Apr. Ao. Transl. Rici. quarto & Ao. R. H. 7. xiijo. cora. R. Danby Senesc.

Jur. Regal. {per}tin Dn̄o Ep̄o infa. Dniūm istud.

Vered̄em.

It. Iur. dic. sup. sacru. sem qd. le ankarage & le wreyk maris, ac oīa al. regalia infa. Dn̄iū. istud accident. solūmodo {per}tinent dn̄o Ep̄o ut de jure regali Ecc̄lie sue & nulli alteri & semp. suerunt a tempe qo. non memoria Hoiū. contrariū. existāt, nisi in temp̄e. Johis Spittell nup. Ballivi p. favorem sustinēbat Johem̄ Gosten & Johem Raw tenent comit Westml̄d {per} sex annos occupare ea Tamen id Joh̄es Spittell his {per}sens in Cur fatetur se ocupasse & recepisse ead regalia ad usu et oficium dc̄i dn̄i Ep. sitit Ric̄us Taillor & Joh. Forster deputati sui occupaverunt eadem.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*
It is said, at the restoration, the purchasers of church lands offered the King the round sum of 500,000l. to confirm their right for 99 years, on payment of the old rents to the Bishops and Clergy, which offer his Majesty was so far from complying with, that he granted a commission of inquiry touching such estates.
↵

BEBSIDE,

which was in our view from the road, was a manor appertaining to the priory of Tynemouth.

NEWSHAM and SOUTH BLYTH

lay to our left, the property of a younger branch of the Cramlingtons in the reign of Queen Elizabeth;[†] afterwards purchased by Colonel Thomas Radcliff; it is chiefly the possession of Sir Matthew White Ridley. Blyth is a pretty village, situate on the south side of the river Blyth, with a commodious port for small craft.

The navigable river and port of Blyth were of consequence to the Bishops of Durham in ancient times, and are named in their records with the Tyne, Wear, and Tees, as being subject to their jurisdiction, where they enjoyed all royal rights.[‡] The Bishops of Durham still continue to lease out the anchorage, beaconage, plankage, wharfage, ballast key, and wastes between the high and low water marks of Blyth, and all the wrecks of the sea on that coast.[§]

Notes

†

- Thomas Cramlington 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- Robert King Charles I.

His estate was sequestered by parliament 1652.

↵

‡
Anno 1. Thomas Hatfield Episc. anno 19 Edward III. 1346.
Per Compotum solut Episc. pro Anchoragis navium in Aqua d'Blyth in Bedlingtonshire 4d. pro qualibet nave, toto iijs. iiijd.

↵

§
Anno 31 Eliz. Cop. Halmot Rob. Lambton, anno 43 Eliz. Cop. Toby Matthew Episc. — Bowes.
↵

CRAMLINGTON

lay on our right, a member of the barony of Guagy, the ancient possession and residence of the family of Cramlingtons. [*] Male issue failing in William de Cramlington, during the reign of King Henry V. these estates came to his two daughters as coheiresses; one of whom married William Lawson, [†] through which they soon after centered in that family.

The appearance of

Notes

*

- John de Cramlington King Edward II.

- Richard 33 King Edward III.

- William 16 King Richard II.

Wallis.

↵

†

- William Lawson 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- Robert Lawson 7 Queen Ann, High Sheriff of Northumberland 1708.

Wallis.

↵

SEATON DELAVAL

now engaged the eye; the spreading plantations extended over the plain afforded an agreeable scene, which was beautifully improved by the distant prospect of the ocean.

Seaton Delaval is the chief seat of Sir John Hussey Delaval, Bart. in the principal manor of the barony of Seaton Delaval. There is in the Herald's office a very particular pedigree of this Gentleman's ancestors, entered in Sir William Dugdale's Visitation of Northumberland, which commences at the time of the Norman conquest: Sir Henrick Delaval, second son of Guido Lord of Delaval, carried one of the head banners, when his cousin William Duke of Normandy conquered England;[‡] and
SEATON DELAVAL North Front

it is very remarkable that the present possessor of this fine place derived his descent from the Dukes of Normandy on his mother's side also, who was a grand daughter of Sir Thomas Hussey of Doddington, in the county of Lincoln, which noble house and estate belong to him.

In the north front [*] of this magnificent structure, consisting of five stories, the whole of which is built of beautiful stone, and of the most excellent masonry, there is a flight of 16 steps on each side of the uppermost landing; there are three superb doric columns, which by their bold projectures give an extraordinary effect to their richly embellished entablatures; immediately over these are placed handsome vases on pedestals: here the attic story rises, having a grand pediment, with a triangular tympanum (in which the arms of the family and various trophies are carved, and so relieved that all their parts are perfectly seen free from its entablature). This facade is rendered extremely beautiful by the breaks and fine proportions of its parts, and by the excellent sculpture with which it is dressed; and the whole is crowned with a ballustrade and proper pedestals on which urns are placed: at each end hereof are seen the upper external parts of the grand staircases, rising nearly to the height of the apex of the central pediment, which afford a very graceful effect, being ornamented with a series of round ballusters terminated by pedestals, out of which arise, in form of urns, the tops of chimneys. The perron to the portal has two landing places, the upper of which is of the height of the basement story, constructed boldly in bossage-work, serving as a basis for the edifice, and giving an appearance of great strength to it. On each side hereof a corridor unites to the house two noble wings, adorned with beautiful arcades, extending along the whole length of the fronts. These as well as the body of the house are all covered with lead; their perfect unity therewith, their
SEATON DELAVAL South Front

graceful projections, niches, and pediments, form a most grand and pleasing court, being terminated with two beautiful pavilions, connected also by a corridor. The first room which you enter is a most stately hall, 44 feet long and 44 feet high; here all the ornaments strike by simple but grand uniformity. Numerous arches, recesses, and niches please the informed observer, more with the harmony of their proportions than with the splendour of their decorations. The floor is of a black and white marble, and the chimney-piece finely adapted to the great stile of the room; the figures which support it are exquisitely executed, as are the basso relievos, and all the decorations: opposite to the door is a grand music gallery, faced with elegant iron ballustrades upon a fine entablature, and supported by beautiful consoles: in the uppermost niches are statues as large as the life, admirably executed by the best Italian Artists, with their attitudes and symbols representing Music, Painting, Geography, Sculpture, Architecture, and Astronomy; and in the interstitial solids are the pictures at full length of Sir John and Lady Hussey Delaval, and their children. The ceiling is extremely elegant to the right and left passages, paved with marble, leading through lofty arches to handsome rooms, wainscotted with mahogany, in which are the pictures of Admiral Delaval, and others of Sir John's ancestors, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and other good portrait painters; and also to the two grand winding geometrical stone staircases, 17 feet in diameter, reaching from the bottom to the top of the house, of a structure which has been greatly admired by all who have seen them, having iron ballusters of a very light and elegant form. The hall leads to a splendid saloon, fronting the pleasure grounds, 75 feet long, and from the door at which you enter it to the folding glass doors on the opposite side thereof it is 30 feet wide: these open into a most magnificent portico, of the Ionic order, tetrastite, of which the columns are three feet diameter. In this room there are eight majestic fluted Corinthian columns of the most beautiful stone, and the same number of pilasters, which divide it into three spaces; the ceiling was executed by the famous Italian artist Vercelli, and is exquisitely modelled, and admirably coloured: here are several finely painted whole length pictures of this family. At the east end is a small antichamber, which leads into a spacious drawing-room, and also into a lesser drawing-room contiguous to an an elegant eating-room beautifully ornamented with festoons of fruit and flowers, formed of a most durable composition, and so admirably painted as perfectly to resemble nature. Collateral to these stately apartments are others for retirement and waiting-rooms, connected with a stone winding staircase of fine workmanship, being ten feet three inches in diameter, and communicating with the great staircase at every landing-place, through either of which you may ascend to a grand gallery on the next floor, on each side whereof are several large and finely proportioned bed-chambers, and from whence you may pass into 14 new rooms lately built by Sir John, among which are several stately bed-chambers and dressing-rooms; and he has also highly ornamented the greatest part of this fine mansion with new and rich furniture. Most of the best rooms have marble chimney-pieces of admirable workmanship. All the offices in the base story, which are very numerous, are arched with hewed stone, from whence you may go on the same level to the east and west wings; in the former thereof are the noble stables, the chief of which is 62 feet long and 41 wide, and 24 feet 8 inches high, the roof being supported by three superb arches 21 feet 4 inches high: the divisions of all the stalls and the niches for the hay are of stone. In this wing there is a gallery extending the whole length of its front, and several commodious rooms. The other wing contains a spacious and lofty kitchen and offices of all kinds on the ground floor; and in the second floor several good apartments, and a gallery also reaching along the whole length of it. This splendid seat stands in part of the pleasure grounds, surrounded by a ha-ha, having a wall of hewn stone nine feet high, and considerably more than a mile in circumference, which is not seen from the house. Here are several walks disposed with great taste, some of which are shaded as well by lofty old trees as plantations, through which various vistas are cut, some of them being terminated by elegant stone buildings, and others opening delightful prospects to the sea towards the east, greatly heightened by ships which are frequently sailing in sight of the windows: to the south there is a fine view over a verdant lawn to another bay of the sea, where frequently 150 sail of colliers may be seen, and enriched with the fine ruin of Tynemouth Priory, a grand obelisk, and several villages and hamlets interspersed, forming a very beautiful landskip: to the west there is an avenue of a mile and quarter long, and to the north a view of a great part of Northumberland, extending over a space of 60 miles, terminated by the august mountains of Cheviot. This house stands within a few yards of the place where Delaval Castle, the ancient baronial seat of the family, formerly stood. Near the house is the family chapel, [*] of Saxon antiquity,
HARTLEY HAVEN

MAUSOLEUM at Seaton Delaval

where divine service is constantly performed: not far from thence there is an elegant Mausoleum, which has lately been built by Sir John and Lady Hussey Delaval to the memory of their late son, who was the delight not only of his parents, but of all who knew him; his endowments were so pleasing, and his manners so captivating, that the most able panegyrist would want words to give an adequate idea of this most admirable young man. No expence has been spared in this pious edifice, which has been justly admired by every one who has seen it; the perron to the entrance being of the height of the zocle of the building, serves as a continual pedestal to it; the portico is of the doric order tetrastite, the columns of which are each formed of one single stone, weighing several tons, bearing a handsome pediment with a triangular tympanum: the dressing of the whole is elegant and simple; a cupola covered with lead, rising majestically in the centre, produces a very solemn appearance: the inside is of the form of a chapel, having a nave in the middle, with an altar or communion table, above which a solemn dome is supported by semicircular arches, opening to an aile on each side, in which are several arches and niches for the reception of tablets, inscriptions, and monuments; underneath are catacombs strongly arched, and of most durable workmanship: they are all founded, as is the whole of this structure, upon a rock; and as all the stones of which it is composed are large, and set so close together as not to admit of any wall falling, it is calculated to last as long as the work of man can do: it is enclosed by a ha-ha wall of 11 feet high and 5 feet thick, so wrought and put together as to have a rocky appearance, giving the idea of long duration; and by forming from its rudeness a strong contrast to the building, which is all polished as well as stone can be, produces an admirable effect.

A delightful shady walk, of a mile long, leads to Sir John's port of Hartley, [*] whence his coals, well known in London by that name, are shipped. There are also large salt works and copperas works, and likewise very considerable glass works, which were built by Thomas Delaval, Esq and purchased of him by Sir John, who has cut through a solid and hard rock a new entrance into his harbour, which is 52 feet deep 30 feet broad, and 900 feet long: this great work he did at his own private expence, which no person has any share or concern in but himself: no ships come hither except for his coals, salt, glass, and copperas; the three last-mentioned works are carried on here for the sake of consuming the small coals of his colliery, which would without them be of no value. Before this new entrance was effected, the opportunity for exportation here was very confined, as the ships, for want of a sufficient depth of water in the old entrance, were obliged to be loaded with keels, whereas they can now sail out with their full loadings. These works produce to the public a revenue of above 20,000l. a year, and afford Sir John the means of constantly supporting several hundred people who live upon his estate in honest industry, in which he and Lady Hussey Delaval take great delight.

Sir John has also made a little harbour of refuge in St. Mary's Island, for the safety of the Fishermen upon this coast, by which many have been saved who could not possibly, in certain winds, have reached any other harbour.

Conceiving it might prove most agreeable to the reader to find a particular description of

Notes

‡

Robertus Comes de Moreton, vel de Mortaign, frater uterinus Willielmi Conquestoris habuit unicum filium Willielmum, qui ei successit, capt. apud Tenerichley anno 6to. Hen. I. Idem Robertus habuit tres filias; una (Agnes) duxit Andr. de Vitre; secunda (Dionisia) Guido, de Delavale; tertia (Ernia) comitem Tholosenum, expeditione Hierosolomitana occisum, et ex ea habuit filiam Nuptam Willielmo comiti Pictaviensi et Aquitaniae duci ex qua Willielmus filius qui successit, pater fuit Elianorae reginae Angliae.

Ex Vel. M. S. remanente inter Archiva Terri. Londinensi.

Guy Delaval married Dionesia the second daughter of Robert Earl of Morton, brother by the mother's side to King William I.

Hugh Delaval is mentioned in Dugdale's Baronage thus, "Of this name I find mention in 5 King Stephen, William Maltravers then paying 1000 marks of silver, and C. £. to be disposed of as the King should think fit, for the widow of Hugh Delaval, with her lands, for the term of 15 years, and after that time for her marriage and dowery.

Guy Delaval is next mentioned by Dugdale 13 King Henry II. who then possessed Navesby, in Com. Northamp. and held 20 Knights fees, as it seems; for in 14 Henry II. upon collection of the aid for marrying the King's daughter, it appears that he paid 20 marks, viz. 13s. 4d. for each. In 2 Richard I. upon levying the scutage of Wales, he paid 10l. for his fees in Yorkshire, and upon the aid for the King's redemption in 6 Richard I. answered 20l. in the same county, 33s. 4d. in Com. Linc. and 10s. in Com. Oxon. the capital seat of his barony being in Com. Ebor. This Guy married the daughter of Maurice de Creon, and died 1 John, whereupon Roger de Lasci, Constable of Chester, gave 500 marks, 10 palfreys, and 10 laisse of greyhounds, for the possession of his lands, which he claimed as his own right.

Gilbert Delaval was one of the 25 Barons sworn to see the Charters of Magna Charta and Charta de Foresta, granted by King John at Running Mead, confirmed by the Roman Pontiff.[*]

Eustace Delaval is thus mentioned by Dugdale, &c. ‘At this time also Eustace Delaval held another barony in Com. Northum. consisting of these Lordships (scil) Blackaliddon, Seton, with its members, viz. Reusum & Discington, for two Knights fees de verteri Feoffamento. This Eustace in 42 Hen. III. had summons, with other of the northern Barons, to fit himself with horse and arms, and to march into Scotland, for rescuing the King of the realm out of the hands of his rebellious subjects, who at that time held him in restraint; he being then in minority, and having married the daughter of King Henry’

Hugh Delaval married Maud the daughter of Hugh de Bolbec, and died without issue. Dugdale says, ‘I come to Hugh Delaval, who in 2 Ed. I. had to wife Maud, one of the cousins and coheirs of Richard de Montfichet, daughter and heir of Hugh de Bulbec: which Hugh de Bulbec also wedded Margerie, one of the sisters and heirs to the said Richard. In 22 Ed. I. this Hugh Delaval (with other of the great men of that time) had summons to fit himself with horse and arms, and be at Portsmouth on the 1st day of September, thence to attend the King into France: but further I cannot say of him.’

Eustace Delaval was heir and successor of Hugh, but how near in blood my author doth not point out.

Robert Delaval married Margaret daughter of William Lord Greystock.

William Delaval—48 King Edward III. High Sheriff of Northumberland. He married Christian the daughter of Robert de Eslington.

Sir Robert Delaval—2d King Richard II.

Sir Henry Delaval—He died without issue, and his barony descended to his sister

Alice — Who married John de Witchester 18 King Richard II. William de Witchester, the son of this marriage dying without issue, a third part of the barony descended to his sister Elizabeth, wife of John de Rouchester, 11 King Henry VI. on whose death that portion came to

William Delaval, in whom it is said the remainder was vested; but in what right, or of what line this William was, my author doth not point out.

Sir John Delaval was High Sheriff of Northumberland 34 King Henry VIII. 1 King Edward VI. 1 Philip and Mary, 1 and 13 Queen Elizabeth.

Sir Ralph Delaval was High Sheriff, 17, 25, and 34 Queen Elizabeth, 2 and 19 King James I.

Sir Robert Delaval.

Sir Ralph Delaval, 2 King Charles II. representative in parliament for the county of Northumberland, was created a Baronet 29 June, 1660.

Sir John Delaval leaving only one daughter, the Baronet's title was extinct. The estate of Seaton Delaval descended to his nephew

George Delaval, of the North Diffington family, an Admiral in the royal navy, who dying without issue, it descended to his nephew

Francis Blake Delaval, grandson to Sir Francis Blake of Ford Castle. He was representative in parliament 4 King George I. for this county, and had several sons.

Sir Francis Blake Delaval succeeded his father. He was created Knight of the Bath at the coronation of King George III. and dying without issue was succeeded by

Sir John Hussey Delaval, Bart. his brother, the present proprietor.

↵

*

‘After this I find mention of Gilbert Delaval, which Gilbert in 17 Joh. was in arms against that King. All that I have further seen of him is, that he held Calverdon in Com. Northumb. of the King in capite, by barony, performing the service of two Knights, as his ancestors had done from the time of the conquest. ’

Dugd. Baron.

↵

*
This princely mansion is built after Sir John Vanburgh's plan.
↵

*
In this chapel are two tombs with recumbent effigies, the one a Knight in armour, who had made the crusade, the other a Lady: but there is no inscription to denote the personages they represent.
↵

*
In a periodical publication, printed for Snagg, in Fleet-street, I find the following account:
Cullicoats, a place otherwise of no great distinction, but worthy remembrance in this respect, that it is a very commodious little port, of artificial construction, or as the common people stile it, an harbour made by hand. It is dry at low water and difficult at the entrance; but it serves for coals and salt belonging to the works of particular persons, at whose expence it was constructed. Seaton Sluice was originally of the same kind. Sir Ralph Delaval was continually contriving new improvements, in the exercise of which he never hesitated at expence; and amongst the rest made this port, on his own plan, and entirely at his own charge, for the benefit of his tenants and himself immediately, but without excluding others who chose to use it. In the construction of this small harbour he found enough to exercise his skill and patience; the stone pier which covered it from the north east wind, being carried away by the sea more than once; and when he had overcome this difficulty by using timber as well as stone, he felt a new inconvenience by his port's filling up with mud and sand, though a pretty sharp rill ran through it, which had so hollowed the rock as to produce the very bason which Sir Ralph would convert into a haven. In order to remove this mischief, he placed a new strong sluice, with flood-gates upon his brook, and these being shut by the coming in of the Tyde, the back water collected itself into a body, and forcing a passage at the ebb, carried all before it; and twice in 24 hours scoured the bed of the haven clean. King Charles II. who had a great taste for matters of this kind, made him collector and surveyor of his own port.

↵

FORD CASTLE,

which Sir John Hussey Delaval considers as his sporting seat, immediately succeeding that of the princely mansion of Seaton Delaval, I reserved it for this place.

From Yevering Bell, and the eminences beyond Wooler, it has a noble appearance, arising from a fine cultivated plain. This Castle was re-edified by Sir John, the antique stile being well preserved in the design; two towers, one on the east flank, and one on the west, being the only remains of the old castle which are retained in this edifice. The work was begun in the year 1761, and compleated in two or three years. The front is to the south, the centre of which is formed by a semihexagonal projection, and its terminations are square turrets; from whence, on each hand, a regular wing is advanced. On the west side of the area in front, is an old square tower of singular form, it being composed of two turrets, one arising above another; the upper one being so much less than that which supports it, as to afford a spacious battlement. The area is enclosed by a wall embrazured and garnished with turrets, the entrance to which is by a spacious gateway: the wall is defended by corner towers.

This castle is seated on the east banks of the river Till: It appears by Madox's Exch. p. 647, that Sir William Heron built it in the 12th year of the reign of King Henry III. A. D. 1227, the estate having come to his family by an intermarriage with the heiress of Ford, who derived her descent from Odonel de Ford, as is mentioned in the preceding page 19, and who was seized thereof in the time of King Henry I.

The castle commands a fine prospect up the valley as far as Wooler bounded by lofty eminences, which rising swiftly, are broken in the most agreeable and romantic manner. To the westward, at about the distance of a mile and a half, you view Flodden Hill, marked to the eye by a rising plantation of firs,[*] which crowns the eminence, and gives a beautiful object upon the landskip. In great floods the Till overflows several hundreds of acres of flat ground; the extensive sheet of water makes a grand appearance from the castle: when it subsides, the plain is left covered with a most fertilizing mud, by which the soil is greatly enriched.

From the happy taste her Ladyship possesses for a rural life, Sir John has advanced the more rapidly in those works of improvement which mark the adjacent country. The fair example becomes illustrious, by the contrast which is seen in the lives of persons of equal rank and opulence. The works which are spread around Ford and Seaton Delaval, whilst they dispense felicity to innumerable laborious families, contribute greatly to the general opulence of the state. No panegyric can pay due praise to those who thus employ their abundant wealth: the effect is not contracted within the circle of Sir John's possessions, the example influences as it carries with it conviction, and many are thereby induced to cultivate and improve the adjacent estates, recovering from a prepossession of ages of ignorance, that the nature of the soil and climate would frustrate their attempts. A vast tract of land, on which you look from Ford, was within 20 years last past, one continued sheep-walk; now intersected and enclosed with excellent quick-wood fences; the eminences adorned with fine plantations; the large and open farms which heretofore gave the country the aspect of poverty and desolation, are now subdivided, and let out into smaller allotments from 60l. to 200l. a year each, by which the country has become well peopled, and the lands, which for pasturage did not yield above one shilling per acre, now let for twenty-five shillings. The vice of enlarging farms, destroying villages, and thereby depopulating a country, was advanced to such enormity in the reigns of King Henry VII. and King Henry VIII. that it called for a parliamentary inquiry and restriction. No language can more strongly express the error, than the preamble of the statute of the 25th of King Henry VIII. cha. 14.
For as much as divers and sundry persons of the King's subjects of this realm, to whom God of his goodness hath disposed great plenty and abundance of moveable substance, now of late within few years have daily studied, practised, and invented ways and means how they might accumulate and gather together into few hands as well great multitude of farms as great plenty of cattle, and in especial sheep, putting such lands as they can get to pasture, and not to tillage, whereby they have not only pulled down churches and towns, and enhanced the old rates of the rents of the possessions of this realm, or else brought it to such excessive fines, that no poor man is able to meddle with it, but also have raised and enhanced the prices of corn, cattle, wool, pigs, geese, hens, chickens, eggs, and such other, almost double above the prices which have been accustomed; by reason whereof a marvelous multitude and number of the people of this realm be not able to provide meat, drink, and cloaths necessary for themselves, their wives and children; but be so discouraged with
The FORGE near FORD CASTLE

misery and poverty, that they fall daily to theft, robbery, and other inconveniences, or pitifully die for hunger and cold. And as it is thought by the King's most humble and loving subjects, that one of the greatest occasions that moveth and provoketh those greedy and covetous people, so to accumulate and keep in their hands such great portions and parts of the grounds and lands of this realm from the occupying of the poor husbandmen, and so to use it in pasture and not in tillage, is only the great profit that cometh of sheep, which now be come to a few persons hands of this realm, in respect of the whole number of the King's subjects, that some have 24,000, some 20,000, some 10,000, some 6000, some 5000, and some more and some less; by the which a good sheep for victual, that was accustomed to be sold for 2s. 4d. or 3s. at the most, now sold for 6s. or 5s. or 4s. at the least; and a stone of clothing wool, that in some shires of this realm was accustomed to be sold for 18d. or 20d. now sold for 4s. or 3s. 4d. at the least; and in some counties where it hath been sold for 2s. 4d. or 2s. 8d. or 3s. at the most, is now sold for 5s. or 4s. 8d. at the least, and so are raised in every part of this realm: Which things, thus used, be principally to the high displeasure of Almighty God, to the decay of the hospitality of this realm, to the diminishing of the King's people, and to the let of the cloth-making, whereby many poor people have been accustomed to be set on work; and in conclusion, if remedy be not found, it may turn to the utter destruction and desolation of this realm, which God defend.
—By this law, which is still subsisting, no farmer, under a penalty to be levied by Justices of the Peace, should hold more than two farms, and they to be in one parish, where he should reside; and no farmer to have above 2000 sheep.

Not only the pleasure her Ladyship takes in promoting Sir John's attention to the improvements of the adjacent lands, she also, I am informed, was a chief cause of the Iron Manufactory carried on near Ford, being brought to its present significance. About a mile down the river, a Plating-Forge was erected in 1769, where a large quantity of shovels, spades, and other plate-iron works are made, as well for home consumption, as for exportation at the ports of Berwick, Newcastle, &c. The scheme, when carried to its intended extent, will be of great consequence to this part of the country. The situation of the Forge is romantic, and the whole scene picturesque. The water to supply the wheels is collected by a dam, and forms a fine canal, from whence it breaks over the wear in a beautiful cascade; and being intercepted in its lower course by rocks and hillocks, divides itself into several streams. The buildings for the forge, as you look up the river, lay to the left; on the opposite side is a water-corn-mill: the vale seen above the canal consists of cultivated and enclosed grounds, which are highly contrasted by the lofty eminences which bound the prospect, finely broken and irregular, through which the light streams, and gives a singular beauty to the offscape: these at the extreme point of view are overlooked by Cheviot, awfully supreme and majestic, on whose brow heavy vapours are generally seen suspended.

The family of Delaval had considerable possessions in

Notes

*
Made by Sir John Hussey Delaval.
↵

ECHEWICK:

Hubert Delaval and Richolda his mother gave a moiety of that manor to the priory of Hexham. The priory held lands there of the gift of others; one parcel the donation of Thomas de Echewick, and another of Peter de Fawdon. The abbey of Newminster also had lands in Echewick, by the gift of John de Mitford, 3 King Henry VI.

Roger Fenwick, Esq of Bitchfield, second son of Sir John Fenwick of Wallington, by Margery the daughter and heiress of John Harbottle, Esq married Ursilla daughter of Sir John Heron of Chipchase, Knt. and purchased of the Crown Echewick Hall with divers lands, to be held by fealty only, as of the manor of East Greenwich, subject to a certain fee-farm rent. In the year 1589, he settled the same on Anthony his second son, whose issue in the male line becoming extinct, the estate, about the year 1670, came to Ralph Scourfield, Esq of Newcastle upon Tyne, in right of his mother, who was the daughter of Geo. Fenwick of Newcastle, Merchant Adventurer, younger son of Anthony Fenwick. Ralph Scourfield of Echewick, Esq his only son, was High Sheriff for the county of Northumberland A. D. 1684: he died Sept. 1728, and lies buried within the rails of the communion table in the church of St. John, Newcastle. On his decease the estate descended to Edward Bell, Esq whose eldest daughter and coheiress, the present proprietor, in the year 1748, married George Spearman, Esq

This family of Spearmans derives descent from Le Sire D'Asperemont, son of the Count D'Asperemont, who accompanied King William the Conqueror to England. The corruption of the name has been attributed by some of the family to an atchievement in the holy wars under Prince Edward, afterwards King Edward I. The ancestors of George Spearman, Esq were settled at Preston, in the parish of Tynemouth, for some centuries. John of that family, in the beginning of this century, left by will a chalice for the communion, and a yearly stipend for a Schoolmaster in the parish of Tynemouth.

But to return from this digression:—From the mausoleum at Seaton Delaval, the walk is extended to

HARTLEY,

which place was the possession of Adam de Jesmont, as appears by the escheats of the reign of King John: but in that age it was inconsiderable, when compared to its present state.

The river anciently made its course due east, until it was within a little way of the sea, and then suddenly made a turn, and discharged itself in a course due north. The sea banks at this point form an angle, one side facing to the north, and the other almost full east. At the point of this angle, Sir Ralph Delaval erected his works, to secure his little haven at the mouth of the river, as mentioned in the foregoing note: but Sir John, in an age much advanced in mechanic knowledge, brought his haven into its present state, by cutting through the rock, from the point where the river anciently turned towards the north, to the sea on the east side of the angle, so that the current now discharges itself into the sea in a straight direction, almost due east, and forms a harbour accessible with every wind, and a moorage secure against every storm.

Over the cut, a drawbridge is cast for the passage of the inhabitants.

A little to the west lays

SEGHILL,

mistaken by Camden for the Roman Segedunum, now the possession of Sir Lancelot Allgood: formerly the seat and manor of a branch of the Mitford family, who built the tower, the remains of which still appear.[*]

We passed by the Monks stone, about two miles north-west of Tynemouth. The best account which has yet been given of it, is by Mr Grose, which I shall take the liberty to transcribe. It appears to me to be the ancient boundary mark of the priory district: many obelisks of this kind being fixed on the boundaries of church lands in the northern counties.

‘A gentleman in the neighbourhood remembers it standing, though in a tottering condition, and much out of the perpendicular: he thinks it was then near ten feet high: it has lately been thrown down and broken; two pieces of it are now remaining, one of which, measuring three feet and a half, has been set up, the other, of about three feet, is the part represented (in Mr Grose's plate) lying on the ground; on the pedestal is the inscription, O horror, to kill a man for a pigges head: the characters seem more modern than the obelisk. This monument is of a whin stone; its plan, what is called an oblong square: it is injured by time, and besides which, the country people have punched it so full of round holes, and otherwise so defaced it, as not only to render its ornaments unintelligible, but also to make it doubtful, whether all its sides, or only the two broadest were ornamented.’ The following traditionary story, relative to this monument, is also given by Mr Grose.
A Monk of this monastery, strolling abroad, came to the house of Mr Delaval, an ancestor of the ancient family of that name, who was then absent on an hunting party, but was expected back to dinner: among the many dishes preparing in the kitchen, was a pig ordered purposely for Mr Delaval's own eating: this alone suiting the liquorish palate of the Monk, and though admonished and informed for whom it was intended, he cut off the head, reckoned by epicures the most delicious part of the animal, and putting it into a bag, made the best of his way towards the monastery. Delaval, at his return, being informed of the transaction, which he looked upon as a personal insult, and
TYNMOUTH

being young and fiery, remounted his horse, and set out in search of the offender; when overtaking him, about a mile east of Preston, he so belaboured him with his staff, called a hunting gad, that he was hardly able to crawl to his cell. The Monk dying within a year and a day, although as the story goes the beating was not the cause of his death, his brethren made it a handle to charge Delaval with his murther; who before he could get absolved, was obliged to make over to the monastery, as an expiation of this deed, the manor of Elsig, in the neighbourhood of Newcastle, with several other valuable estates; and by way of amende honourable, to set up an obelisk, on the spot where he properly corrected the Monk. Elsig was afterwards made the summer retreat of the Priors of Tynmouth.
‘This story, like many others of the like kind, is very defective in several parts; no date is affixed, and the above-mentioned monument is shewn in support of it; it seems difficult to account for this Monk being so far from his monastery, especially alone, which was strictly prohibited by their rules: and this not being of the Mendicant order, he could not be going on the quest. The only method of reconciling it, is to suppose that this personage was a lay-brother, and servant to the house. It however shews how dangerous it was to injure the meanest retainer to a religious house: a peril very ludicriously, though justly expressed in the following old English adage, which I have somewhere met with: "If perchaunce one offende a Freeres Dogge, streight clameth the whole brotherhood, an heresy! an heresy!" ’

The town of

Notes

*

- John Mitford — 6 King Edward VI.

- John — 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- Robert — Queen Elizabeth.

- Robert — 25 King Charles II.

- Michael — Queen Ann.

Wallis.

↵

TYNEMOUTH

is well built, being a place of great resort in the bathing season. The Inns are good, and there is every accommodation to render the situation agreeable.

The present church stands a mile west from the town, and was consecrated by Bishop Cosins, 20 King Charles II. A. D. 1668.

THE PRIORY

lies to the east end of the town, on a peninsula formed of stupendous rocks, on the north side of the mouth of the river Tyne, against which heavy seas break with great vehemence and tumult. The approach to the priory in its present state is from the west, by a gateway tower of a square form, having a circular exploratory turret on each corner: from this gateway, on each hand, a strong double wall has extended to the rocks on the sea shore, which from their great height have been esteemed in former times inaccessible. The gate with its walls was fortified by a deep outward ditch, over which there was a drawbridge, defended by moles on each side. The tower comprehends an outward and interior gateway, the outward gateway having two gates at the distance of about six feet from each other, the inner of which is defended by a portcullis and an open gallery: the interior gateway is in like manner strengthened by a double gate. The space between the gateways, being a square of about six paces, is open above, to allow those on the top of the tower and battlements to annoy assailants who had gained the first gate. By different accounts it appears, that there was a place of considerable strength here in very remote antiquity: Camden says, ‘there are some apprehend that the rampier, not the (Roman) wall, went as far as to the very mouth of Tyne, and affirm it was called Pen-bal-crag, that is, the head of the rampier on the rock. I dare avouch, this was in the time of the Romans Tunnocellum, expressing the promontory of Tunn or Tyne, where lay the first cohort Aela Classica, enrolled (probably from the name) by Aelius Hadrianus, the Emperor, and in pay for sea services: for the Romans had certain light pinnaces, termed Luforiae, upon the rivers.’—What it was in the time of the Saxons, as a fortification, we have little or no evidence to be depended upon. The situation on the ostium of so important a river, and so well calculated for the command of this shore, induced William the Conqueror to order it should be converted into a fortress: the religious inhabitants were ill suited to this plan, and the first degradation of this monastery was by WALTHEOF Earl and Governor of Northumberland, at the command of his Sovereign, who it is known had very little veneration for religious institutions. At this period it was fortified with the wall and tower before described. Robert Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, made choice of it for his stronghold, when he rebelled against King William Rufus. But as it usually happens with rebels, he had ill success: being closely besieged, he withdrew himself into the monastery, and claimed the benefit of sanctuary, a protection presumed to be inviolable in those days. Notwithstanding which, he was dragged forth by the conquerors, carried to Windsor, and held in close durance there for a long time before he was put to death.[*] On its being converted into a fortress, it took
The North West View of TYNMOUTH.

the name of Tynemouth Castle; it belonged to the Earls of Northumberland from the time of Waltheof for several generations. In Peck's Desiderata Curiosa, Tynemouth Castle is mentioned in the list of castles, bulwarks, and fortresses garrisoned in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, whereby it appears here was a master gunner and six inferior gunners. In Camden's time it was in good repair: he says, ‘it is now called Tynemouth Castle, and glories in a stately and strong castle.’ It was besieged by the Scots in 1644, when the garrison were obliged to surrender to the arms of the Parliament, and submit to their instructions. On this occasion there was delivered up 38 pieces of cannon, a great stand of arms, with stores of ammunition and provision of very consisiderable amount. Several of the garrison, (it is said during a violent storm) escaped by the privies. A large sum was appropriated by Parliament to restore the injury this fortress sustained in the siege, and Colonel Henry Lilburn was made Governor: but he deserting his party, the garrison soon after revolted. Sir Arthur Hezelrig, who lay at Newcastle, marched immediately to reduce them, and took the place by storm: the men scaling the walls in the most intrepid manner, at the mouths of the cannon, entered by the embrazures and port-holes; and after a short engagement with the garrison within the fortifications, soon became masters of it. In the conflict Lilburn was slain.

On passing the gateway, the scene is strikingly noble and venerable; the whole enclosed area may contain about six acres; the walls seem as well calculated for defence as the gateway tower; the view is crowded with august ruins; many fine arches of the priory are standing; the most beautiful part of these remains is the eastern limb of the church, of elegant workmanship. The ruins are so disunited, that it would be very difficult to determine to what particular offices each belonged. On the south side, adjoining the wall which stands on the brink of the cliff, are several spacious vaulted chambers, one of which I conceived was the kitchen, from the large extended fire-place; another the prison, with an aperture in the top of the vault, by which the miserable captive descended to his horrid dungeon. On the north and east sides, the cliffs appear to be about 10 perpendicular fathoms in height, at the feet of which, on a broken rocky shore, the sea beats impetuously. From the walls on the south side, you have a view of the batteries which command the mouth of Tyne, with the barracks for the garrison. On the north side, is a house built by Colonel Henry Villiers, once Governor of this fortress, together with a light-house, for the benefit of shipping passing this dangerous coast. These erections being made by licence from government, Villiers was authorized to receive one shilling for every British vessel, and six-pence for each foreign vessel anchoring in Shields harbour, which produced a revenue of about 80l. per annum: a trifling gratuity for so beneficial a work.
[*]

The ruins which present themselves in front, on entering the gateway, appear to be the remains of the cloister, to which you have access by a gateway of circular arches, comprehending several members inclining inwards, and arising from pilasters. After passing this gate, in the area many modern tombs appear, the ground being still used for sepulture. The west gate entering into the abbey is still entire, of the same architecture as that leading to the cloister. The ground from the cloister to the south wall is almost covered with foundations of buildings, which I presume are the remains of the priory. Two walls of the east end of the church are standing; the end wall to the east contains three long windows; the centre window, the loftiest, is near 20 feet high, richly ornamented with mouldings; some of rose-work, and others of the dancette, as the figure is termed in heraldry, or zig-zag, a decoration common to old Saxon architecture. The divisions or pillars between the windows are enriched with pilasters of five members, with highly finished foliated capitals and cornices. Above the centre window, is an oval one with like mouldings, and the openings of a gallery on each side. Part of the south side wall of the choir is also standing, illuminated with four windows of like form as those to the east, and equally ornamented, though not of the same height; for above them are an equal number of small windows: the divisions or pillars between the larger windows are decorated with pilasters, of the same kind as those at the east end; in the divisions or pillars between the smaller windows, spring the groins of the arches which formed the roof, by their remains shewing they were ornamented with rich mouldings. The arches of the windows in this part are circular; the blank arches which are thrown upon the wall beneath the windows are pointed. The architecture through the whole of this part of the building is singularly light and beautiful; the erection consists of a red freestone, which endures the weather well, in this stormy situation.

Beneath the centre window at the east end, is a doorway, of like excellent workmanship, conducting to a small but elegant apartment, which I conceive has contained the shrine and tomb of St. Oswine. On each side of the door, is a human head, cut in a stile much superior to that of the general taste of the age in which they are supposed to have been executed. The apartment within is 18 feet in length, and nine feet in breadth and height. On the south side is an entrance from the open yard with two windows, on the north side three windows, and a circular window to the east, so elevated as to give place for an altar beneath: there are two niches for statues at the east end, a closet for the vessels for sacred offices, and a bason for holy water: on each side of the window is the figure of a Monk kneeling, and two of the emblematical animals commonly depicted with the Evangelists: the side walls are ornamented with pilasters, from whence spring the groins and arches of stone, which in various intersections form the roof; the joinings of which are enriched with circles of carved work, and the interstices of the roof are arched and constructed with thin bricks. The circles contain sculptures of the divine Personages with the Apostles, of workmanship far from being despicable, and all the figures are in good preservation. Round each sculpture is a circular belt with a sentence in the old English character, well raised, viz. Sanct. Petrus ora P. nobis, &c. each varied by the name of the personage to whom it is inscribed. The centre row consists of four circles; in one is the effigies of John the Baptist, with the like sentence; in a second, towards the west, the effigies of our Saviour, with a Monk kneeling; in a third, to the east, the effigies of the Supreme, with the Lamb bearing an ensign; and in the fourth, a representation of the last judgment, with this sentence: In die judicii liberare nos. Above the door is the effigies of our Saviour with a globe in his hand, with morit P. nobis, subscribed; on each side of the door, an emblematical figure, as to the east. There are two escutcheons, the dexter one charged with bearings of Vesey, a cross sable; the sinister, the bearings of Brabant and Lucy quarterly.[*] Many little ornaments are cut on the inferior roses on the arched work; as croslets, crescents, winged crosses, the old Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as the emblem of sacred masonry, and the usual characters disposed over religious buildings Ihc, Jesus hominis conservator. On the outside of this erection, at the east end, are two coats armour, supported by cherubs; the one charged with a cross, the arms of the monastery of St. Albans, the other, with three crowns; which latter was the proper arms of the monastery [*] of Tynemouth.

The time when this monastery was first founded, as well as the founder, are both uncertain. By a passage in Leland's Collectanea, vol. 3. p. 42. it appears, that Edwin King of Northumberland, who began his reign about the year 617, and died in 633, built a chapel of wood at Tynemouth, wherein his daughter Rosetta took the veil; and that this chapel was afterwards rebuilt by St. Oswald with stone.[†] Tanner, in his account of this house, says, ‘Among the monasteries and churches founded by St. Oswald, the first christian King of Northumberland, this is reckoned to be one, though others ascribe its foundation to King Egfrid. ’

Although the exact aera of its foundation cannot be ascertained, there are nevertheless sufficient proofs of its great antiquity: insomuch, that according to the learned author last cited, ‘it is evident that St. Herebald, the companion of St. John of Beverley, was Monk and Abbot here in the beginning of the 8th century.’ [‡] The personages who were interred here point out its consequence in those days.

It suffered three several depredations from the Danes: the first about the conclusion of the 8th century;[*] the second under Hunguar and Hubba, in the reign of King Ethelred; and the third in the reign of Athelstan. The desire of plunder urged those heathenish tribes of robbers against the sacred places: on the second descent of those invaders, the Monks fled to their church for safety, and there suffered together with the hallowed pile; the Barbarians reducing the whole, with its religious assembly, to ashes. If we were allowed to trust, that vindictive Providence sometimes wields an immediate scourge over the wicked, we should conceive the divine interposition was manifested on those inhuman murtherers, who were pursued by Ethelred King of the Northumbrians, and Offa King of Mercia, with a dreadful slaughter, and forced in great precipitation to their ships, when a succeeding storm strewed the shores, which had been conscious of their crimes, with their miserable carcasses and the wreck of their fleet.

After the horrid massacre of the Monks, the monastery lay in ashes till the reign of Edward the Confessor, when Tostin Earl of Northumberland rebuilt and endowed it; but what order of religious were placed here, I have found no positive evidence. It was not till Mowbray's time Black Canons were settled here from St. Albans.[*]

Tostin did not make this foundation from religious principles; he was prompted to it by ambition or other sinister views: his life was marked with savage barbarities, which drew upon him the wrath of his Prince, who banished him for his complicated and atrocious crimes. Thenceforth he attached himself to the King of Norway, who was ravaging Scotland, and induced him to attempt deposing his own brother, Harold II. for which purpose he projected a descent at the haven of Tynemouth, from whence they pillaged all the country on the banks of Tyne. Putting again to sea, they entered the Humber, where they committed the most horrid cruelties, burning and laying waste the whole country, and imbruing their hands in a flood of innocent blood. In a little time they were opposed by a body of forces under the command of Edwin and Morchar; but in the conflict the Danes were victorious. Harold with an army of 60,000 men, soon afterwards engaged the invaders, who were nearly equal in number, at Stanford Bridge, near York. The battle began at seven in the morning, and did not cease till three in the afternoon, when after a great slaughter of the Danes, Tostin and the Danish King being among the slain, victory declared for Harold: and such were the bloody honours of the day, that out of 500 ships, with which the invaders entered Tynemouth haven, twenty, and those too by permission of the Conqueror, carried the young Prince with his remaining followers to Denmark.[*]

This monastery was reduced to the title of a cell to Gynwin, afterwards became a cell to Durham, and at last a cell to St. Albans. [*] From the great disagreement in authors on these facts, it is difficult to determine by whom these several changes were made; but from the best authorities, I am led to conceive the first degradation of this monastery was by Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, at the command of his King. To shew some colour or pretext for so flagrant an invasion of the rights of the church, he pretended it was an unfit situation for devotion (horridus & incultus). Mr Wallis's ideas are excellent on this subject: I will take them literatim, as he gives them in his work.

‘It is so far from being an unfit place for devotion, that few can exceed it, for presenting the mind with a variety of solemn objects, capable of raising it to an adoration and awful reverence of the Deity. The very precipice it stands on, lofty and almost perpendicular, whose semicircular base withstands the fury of the waves, must have inspired the religious with a firm reliance on him who is the rock of ages: the calms—the storms—the ships, must all by turns have furnished them with occasions to praise him, whose wonders are seen in the great deep.’

The monastery was dismembered from Gyrwin, and made a cell to Durham, [†] by Albric Earl and Governor of Northumberland, (Mr Grose says, by Agelwinas in 1065, who was Bishop of Durham, but quotes no authority) as an act of devotion to the memory of St. Cuthbert. Mowbray, when Earl of Northumberland, severed it from the church of Durham, and gave it to St. Albans, in or about the year 1090,[‡] he having repaired the church and offices, and placed therein Black Canons from that abbey. This was said to be done in resentment (as appears by Dugdale) for some affront he conceived he had received from the Bishop of Durham. It is remarkable, that the very altar which he thus presumed to profane, he sought to lay hold of as his sanctuary, when his unsuccessful plots brought upon him the wrath of his Sovereign. It is said by his treason he forfeited 280 Fiefs, so princely were his possessions.

The Prior had the privilege of a market on Sunday, and the priory had many wealthy endowments, which were confirmed by the patents of many of our Kings, from King Henry I. to King Edward IV.[*]

The badness of the situation, as alledged by Waltheof, was amply compensated by an advantage arising from thence: the Monks knew well how to avail themselves of it; the exalted rock on which this monastery stood, rendered it visible at a great distance at sea, in every direction; whence it presented itself as if reminding and exhorting Seamen in danger, to make their vows, and promise masses and gifts to the Virgin Mary and St. Oswin for their deliverance. Vows of this kind were common among the ancients, and are to this day, it is said, made in some catholic states, where the walls of churches are covered with the paintings of ships, boats, and other votive memorials. Erasmus, in his piece intitled the Shipwreck, has very humourously described and ridiculed this custom of bribing heaven in case of sudden emergency. In Germany, below almost every dangerous fall or passage of the Rhine, there is a hermitage, whose Hermit, or his Agent, waits on the passenger in the boat, as soon as it has passed over, requesting alms as a reward for his prayers, to the efficacy of which it is intimated he owes his safety. Something like this perhaps might be practised by the Monks, from which they would receive many emoluments, both in goods and money, for the celebration of masses; especially as the entrance into Shields harbour is at certain times both difficult and dangerous.

Many great personages lay interred here,[*] and there have been of this house many learned men.

Malcolm King of Scots, and his son Edward, slain near Alnwick 1094, 7th King William II. are interred here.

King Edward I. after his victory over the Scots, visited the shrine of St. Mary and St. Oswin; and in 1303, his Queen resided here, when he was on his last march to Scotland.

John Wethamstad, Abbot of St. Albans, was a Canon here. He was an Historian of great note. On his preferment, he presented to the altar of Tynemouth a chalice of gold.

John de Tynmouth, an eminent sacred Biographer, was born here. He flourished about the year 1366.

The following list of Priors is given by Brown Willis: Remegius 1092; William de Bedford 1124; Thomas More 1340; John Langton 1451; Thomas Gardiner 1528; Robert Blaceney was Prior at the dissolution, at which time he, with fifteen Prebendaries and three Novices, surrendered this house, 12th January, 1539, 30th King Henry VIII. and had a pension of 80l. per annum assigned him. In the year 1553, here remained in charge 37l. 12s. in annuities, and these pensions, viz. Thomas Castle 6l. 13s. 4d. Henry Woodal and Robert Bolland 61. each, Robert Gateshead and Robert Foreman 5l. 6d. 8d. William Carlisle, Stephen Hayman, Anthony Gardiner, George Jasper, Clement Westminster, and Robert London 4l. Thomas Durham, Robert Charity, and George Faith 2l. each.

The annual revenues of this monastery, unconnected with St. Albans, were at the dissolution valued by Dugdale at 396l. 10s. 5d. by Speed 511l. 4s. 1d.

The scite of the priory, in the 5th year of King Edward VI. was granted to John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, but on his attainder reverted to the Crown, and remained ungranted until the 10th year of Queen Elizabeth, as is set forth in Tanner's Notitia.

The manor of Tynemouth is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland.

Much of the remains of the priory were pulled down by Mr Villars, for erecting the barracks, light-house, his own house near it, and other edifices: he likewise stripped off the lead which till then had covered the church.[*]

The first day of our abode here was employed in drawing views of the august remains. The next morning being remarkably serene, awaked me early to revisit the same scene, and enjoy the sea breeze. I walked towards the cliffs—the sun cast a ruddy gleam over a calm ocean —the breeze scarce ruffled the leaping surge—the horizon glowed with clouds tinged with gold and crimson; above which the feint blue of the verge gradually deepened into azure, as the eye advanced towards the zenith—the sea appeared of a pale green, strip'd with silver, as the rays of light fell upon the tracks which were becalmed—the scene was enlivened by a fleet of vessels, 44 in number, of various degrees of burthen, which then passed in view—over the foreground of this prospect, the solemn ruins were disposed in melancholy arrangement, wearing a countenance more awful and majestic, from the shadows which the eastern sun occasioned to be cast on them—on the right hand and left, the landskip presented itself full of life and business; and to add to the effects this view had on the mind, the morning drum was heard from the garrison, the hum of the distant voices of busy men, and the sounding of the hollow shore, beat by an advancing tide.

Leaving Tynemouth, we passed within sight of the barracks and batteries to

Notes

*
Camden.
↵

*
His Monument in the priory-yard has the following Epitaph:

Hic fitae sunt mortales Reliquiae

Henrici Villiers Armigeri

Stirpe antiqua prognati

Unici

Honoratissimi Comitis de Jersey

Fratris

Nec non hujus presidii

Circiter Viginti annos

Fidelis et perquam dilectus

Praefectus

Vixit annos 49 Obiit 18 Aug.

Anno Dom. MDCCVII.

↵

*

In P. Monier's celebrated History of Painting, &c. we have the following remarkable passages touching the original use of Paintings and Sculptures in the christian churches.

One would have thought that the excellence of designing ought to have been kept up at Rome, by reason that from the beginning of the Christian Religion the Christians made use of painting and sculpture, to represent the histories of the Old and New Testament, to adorn their churches and tombs.

St Gregory [*] of Nice assures us, he could not refrain from tears at the sight of a picture wherein Abraham was represented about to sacrifice his son: In his oration of St Theodore [†] he describes the greatness and magnificence of a temple consecrated to that Saint. He takes notice that his martyrdom was extraordinarily well done, and that the characters of the grief and constancy of this martyr, of the fierceness and cruelty of the tyrant, and the assistance of our blessed Lord to crown this happy saint, were as legible in this piece as in a book; insomuch, that the Pictures on the walls were like a lively and useful sermon.

Saint Basil confirms the same thing, and says, that painters do as much by their figures as orators by theirs, and that both equally serve to persuade and raise the contemplators to virtue. —There were some excellent painters among the Greeks in the year 800; for there was nothing more surprizing, nor of greater usefulness, than a piece of the day of judgment done by Methodius, which so sensibly affected Bogoris, [‡] King of the Bulgarians, that it converted that prince, and afterwards all his subjects to christianity.

Images in the christian religion began from the time of Jesus Christ: the first that was made was by a lady, whereof there is made mention in St Luke, cha. 8. v. 46. This holy woman, as an acknowledgement of her cure, erected in the city of Caesarea a statue of I. C. It was of brass, and at his feet was the statue of this woman, in a supplicant posture. She was so acceptable to God, that he gave a miraculous virtue to a plant that grew at the foot of this statue, and when it was grown high enough to touch the fringe of this image, it healed all sorts of diseases.[§] Several historians record this truth, particularly Eusebius of Caesarea, ‖ who was an ocular witness of the truth of it; and Sozomen reports that Julian the apostate, by reason of the hatred he bore to I. C. caused this famous statue to be taken away, and ordered his own to be set up in its place: but he was immediately punished for this sacrilege, for lightning falling thereon consumed it to ashes.

There are other authors who write, that from the time of the apostles there were images of the painting of I. C. [*] and that our blessed Saviour was the inventor of them, at the solicitation of Abagarus King of Edessa, who having heard of the miracles of C. I. sent a painter to draw his picture; but when he could not lay down the design of it, by reason of the shining rays that issued from his divine looks, our Lord, to satisfy the request of the King of Edessa, covered his face with a linen vail, whereon he imprinted his divine image, and sent it to that prince, by virtue whereof he was healed of a disease otherwise incurable. In the time of the apostles were also to be seen images of the blessed virgin; for St Luke made several of them: this is witnessed by St Gregory the patriarch, of Constantinople, [†] in what he writes to the Emperor Leo Isaurianus.

Theodorus [‡] further shews, that the Empress Eudoxia sent one of these images, painted by St Luke, to Pulcheria Augusta; [§] there is also one to be seen at this day at Rome, made by the same saint, which is carefully kept by the religious of Saint Sylvester.

Although the history of the portrait of C. I. sent to Abagarus, and that of the portrait of the Holy Virgin, painted by St Luke, are scrupled and contested about by some, notwithstanding I thought fit to relate them here to shew the antiquity of images after the example of the second Nicene Council. Those of the Apostles,‖ Confessors, and Martyrs have been also painted and engraven in the infancy of the church. The same St Gregory tells us the same thing, as Pope Adrian I. relates in what he writ to Constantine and Irenaeus. He assures us that there were kept in the Basilicum and in the Vatican, the portraitures[**] of St Peter and St Paul, which are those which St Sylvester shewed to the Emperor Constantine [††] the Great after he was converted.

↵

*
In an oration which he made at Constantinople, mentioned in the second Nicene Council Ac. 4. Vidi saepius inscriptionis imaginem, & sine larrymis transire non potui, cum tam efficaciter eb oculos poneret Historiam.
↵

†
Pictor artis suae f
•
res in imaginibus exprimens, res Martyris praeclare gefias, Labores, Cruciatus, immanes Tyrannorum espectus, impetas, ardentem iliam & flammas evomentem fer

•

atem, beatissimum Atcletam, Christiq. certamini praesidentis, ac prae
•
doctis, tama
•
e fermant imaginis: Haec inquam voiis tanquam in libro loquente, artisciose describens, Martyris cert
•
i
•
a sapi
•
er expes
•
it. Novit e
•
im etiam Pictara tacens, in perietibus l
•
qui, & utilitatis plurimum afferre.
↵

‡

Curtpal. Ce•en. Z•ar. related by Mr H. D. Icon•ol.

This Methodius was a Monk and Painter. Bogoris employed him to paint a palace he had built. He orderd him in general to draw representations of terror; taking chiefly delight in pictures that represented the combats of hunters with boars, lions, bears, and tygers. Methodius finding nothing more terrible than the day of judgment, he painted it admirably well, with all its most horrible and amazing circumstances; and above all, the reprobates on the left hand of the judge, and delivered over by his sentence to devils to be dragged into hell. Bogoris was so touched at the representation of this picture, that he immediately resolved, without further delay, to turn christian.

↵

§
Ni
•
e Council 2d Act. 4. S. Greg. a Espist. to Germ. Bp of Constant.

↵

‖
Eusebius Lib c. 7. Chap. 14. This history is also related by Antipater Bestrensis, and also by Nicephorus, Casseterat & Metaph•s. There is also a large narrative of all these antient images in the book of Subterranean Rome.
↵

*
Historiae quoq. (says Damascene) proditum est. Cum Abagarus Edesse Rex eo nomine pictorem misisset, ut Domini imaginem exprimeret, neq. id Pictor ob splendorem ex ipsius vultu manantem, consequi potuisset; Dominam ipsum divinae suae ac vivificae faciei pallium admovisse; Sicq. illud ad Abagarum, ut ipsius cupiditati satisfaceret, misisse. 5. Jo. Damasc. de orthod. Fid. 1. 4. Chap. 17. Baron. Ann. Tom. 1. an. 31.
↵

†
St Gregory the 2. writing to Leo Isaurus relates the same history, and that they came out of all the East to worship this image. Cum Hyerosolymis ageret Christus, Abagarus qui tum temporis dominabatur, & Rex erat urbis Edessenorum cum christi miracula audivisset, Epistolam scripsit ad Christum qui manus suae responsum, & sacram glories amq. faciem suam ad eum misit. Itaq. ad illam non manufactam imaginem mitte ac vide. Congregantur illic orientis turbae & orant, &c.
↵

‡
Theodoris in his oration against Leo Isaurus Annal. T. 9. Annal. 814. and in the 2d Council of Nice: The same relation is confirmed by Leo, Lecturer of the church at Constantinople, who witnesseth the honour that was paid in his time to that image. These are his words, Leo Religiosissimus Lector magnae & egretiae Ecclesiae Constantinopolitanae dixit, & ego indignus vester famulus cum descendissem cum regis Apocrisariis in Syriam Edessem petivi, & venerandam Imaginem, non factam hominum manu adorati & honorari apopula vide, &c.
↵

§

Lucas vero, qui sacrum composuit Evangelium, cum Domini pinxisset imaginem pulcherimam & pluris faciendam posteris reliquit. St Theodor. Orat. in Leo Arm.

Teod. Lect. Collet. L. 1.

↵

‖
St Greogory II. in his epistle to Leo Isaurus, says, of the first christians who painted our Saviour, Qui Dominum cum viderent, prout viderant venientes Hierosolymam spectandum ipsum proponentes depinxerunt. Cum Stephanum Protomartyrem vidissent, prout viderant spectandum ipsum proponentes depinxerunt. Et uno verbo dicam, cum facies martyrum qui sanguinem pro Christo fuderunt, vidissent depinxerunt.
↵

**
Had. 1. Epist. to Const. & Irenaeus Baron. Annal. to 3. An. 324. and to 3. An. 785.
↵

††
Constantine, to adorn his new city, set up on all the gates, the image of the Holy Virgin, and upon that of his palace the image of our Saviour, which Leo Isaurianus caused to be taken away. He also caused to be raised in the middle of his palaces, fine statutes of our Saviour, in the form of the good Shepherd, and that of the prophet Daniel in the lion's den. H. of the Iconocl. of Maimbourg.
↵

*
Tanner.
↵

†

Chronicon autore monacho Albanensi, sed incerto nomine. Edwinus Rex Northumbrorum, facellum erexit Tinemutae ex ligno, in quo Rosetta, ejus filia, postea velum sacrum accepit. S. Oswaldus monasteriolum de Tinemuthe ex ligneo lapideum fecit.

Oswinus Rex & Martyr sepultus Tinemuthae.

Edredus Rex Deirorum ibidem sepultus.

Henricus heremita Coketensis insulae, ibidem sepultus.

Malcolinus Scotorum Rex apud Alnovicum occisus a Moubreio Comite, sepultus est ibidem in Capitulo.

Monasterium de Tinemuthe bis destructum, semel per Augarum & Hubonem, iterumque per Danos tempore Athelstani Regis.

Dani Tinemutha utebantui pro propugnaculo atque adeo receptaculo cum transfretarent ex Dania & Norwegia in Angliam.

In Cocheta Insula caenobiolum est monachorum Tinemutensium.

E Regione Tinemuthae fuit urbs vastata a Danis Urfa nomine, ubi natus erat Oswinus Rex.

Locus ubi nunc Caenobium Tinemuthense est, antiquitus a Saxonibus dicebatur Penbalcrag, i. e. caput valli in rupe. Nam circa hunc locum finis erat valli Severiani.

Lel. Col. vol. 3. p. 42.

↵

‡

Before the end of the 8th century this monastery was plundered by the Danes, as it was again by them under Hunguar and Hubba in the next century, and by the same Pagans a third time in the reign of King Athelstan. The old church was dedicated to the blessed Virgin, and seems to have lain desolate till the finding of King Oswin's relicks here a little before the conquest, when to the honour of St. Mary and that King, Tosti Earl of Northumberland repaired and endowed this house. Upon the banishment of Tosti, this country was given by the Conqueror to Robert de Moubray, who thereupon became Earl, and placed in the church here (which had been given by Waltheof Earl of Northumberland to the Monks of Yarrow, and by Earl Arlbry to Durham) Black Monks from St. Albans in Hertfordshire, to which abbey this priory was subordinate; tho' 26 Henry 8, it was found to have a separate yearly revenue of 397l 10s. 5d. ob. Dugd. 511l. 4s. 1d. ob. Speed.

Tanner, 390.

Vide in Mon. Angl. tom. 1. p. 42. donationem eccl. S. Mariae de Timmuth monachis apud Girve factam a Waltheoso com. Northumbr. P. 45. de revocatione istius donationis ex munimentis Dunelm. Ibid. p. 333. Ex Leland Collect. v. 3. p. 177. de vita S. Oswini, ejusq. translatione. P. 335. Cartas Will. Conq. unam Hen. 1. duas Davidis regis Scottorum; unam Hen. 2. unam Joannis regis; unam Richardi Bertram de Garbis in Bothal. Cart. 2. Edw. 3. n. 3. de Libertat. Matth. Paris Vitas Abbatum S. Albani. Math. Westmonast. Historiam in anno. 1090

In Madoxii Hist. scace. p. 279. pro libertat. confirmandis (bis) vide etiam, p. 414.

Year Books XVIII. 20.

De ecclesiis collatis prioratui de Tinmouth, MS. in Bibl. Cotton.

Excerpta ex antiquo registro prioratus de Tinmouth remanente apud comitem Northumbriae MSS in bibl. Cotton.

Registria Abbatiae S. Albani.

Cart. Antiq. G. 21.

Cart. 5. Joan. m. 12. n. 99. Claus. 6 Joan. m. 5. quod monachi sint quieti de cornagio.

Plac. de Banco. 10. Hen. 3. Hill. Rot. 18. pro maner. de Cherinton. Cart. 53. Hen. 3. m. 2. pro mercat. apud Bewyke. Cart. 55. Hen 3. m. 4 & 7, de libertatibus.

Pat. 21. E. 1. m. Plac. in Com. Northumb. 21. Ed. 1. assis rot. 2. dorso. rot. 8. 9. dorso; rot. 21, 22, 24 dorso; Et 26 27 de maner de Westcherton. Cart. 27. Ed. 1. n. 31. Cart. 32. Ed. 1. n. 14. pro feria apud Tinmouth. pat. 35. Ed. 1. m.

Pat. 6. Ed. 2 p. 1. m. 10. dorso pro return. brev. Cart. 9. Ed. 2. n. 39. Pat. 19. Ed. 2. p. 1. m. 35. pro mess. et terris in Bokeworth, Moreton, Whitley et Milneton; et p. 2. m. 4. pro mess. in Novo Castro.

Cart. 2. Ed. 3. n. 75. Claus. 2. Ed. 3. m. 35. Pat. 2. Ed. 3. p. 1. m. 35 pro ten in Woodham et Seton. Pat. 9. Ed. 3. p. 1. m. 7. Pat. 13. Ed. 3. p. 1. m. Pat. 19. Edw. 3. p. 3. m. 4. Pat. 22. Ed. 3. p. 2. m. 28. Pat. 28. Ed. 3. p. 1. m. 2. pro ten. in West Morton, East Backworth, West Backworth, Preston, &c. Pat. 34. Ed. 3. p. 1. m. 18. pro ten. in Wolsington Morton et Middle Chirton.

Pat. 3. Ri. 2. p. 2. m. 13. Pat. 4. Ri. 2. p. 2. m. 3. Pro ten. in Seton Monachorum, Est Chirton, Eglingham, Denton, &c. Pat. 5. Ric. 2. p. 2. m. 1. Pat. 8. Ric. 2. p. 1. m. 2. pro Eccl. de Hawtwyssel in Tynedale approprianda. Pat. 15. Ric. 2. p. 1. m. 7. Pro Mess. in Novo Castro. Ibid m. 12. pro. aliis messuagiis ibidem. Ibid. p. 2. m. 6. Pat. 16. Ric. 2. p. 1. m. 6. pro ten. in Elstwick, Newbigging, Wodrington, Cuppon, &c.

Cart. 2. Hen. 4. p. 1. n. 4. Pat. 6. Hen. 4. p. 1. m. 35. pro maner. de Whitley.

Pat. 3. Ed. 4. p. 3. m. 12.

Rec. in. Scac. 11. Hen. 8. Pasch. rot. 24.

↵

*

A. D. 800. Ecclesiae de Herteness & de Tinemuth spoliatae sunt a Danis.

Lel. Col. v. p. 388.

↵

*

Tostius Co. Eboraci frater Heraldi primus fundator per alios. Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 103.

Oswine was killed at Gillingham, and was buried at Tynemuth. Osred was buried at Tinemuth.

Ibid. p. 515—516.

Corpus Oswini ab eis, qui truncaverant, delatum est ad Ostium Tinae flu. ibique in oratorio S. Mariae sepulturae traditum, in quo loco virorum illustrium mag. multitudo congregata erat, qui sub ordine regulari divino cultui serviebant, qui quidem in tantam excreverat honoris eminentiam, ut si quis per infra jacentem provint. in fata concessisset, ad eundum locum pro reverent. & honore religiosae gentis tumulandus deferretur.

Hynguar & Hubba hoc monaster. destruxerunt monachi metu persecut. fugerunt ad quandam ecclesiolam in fundo suo, quam S. Cuthbertus dedicaverat. Quo comperto Dani ipsam eccl. & omnes qui in ea erant, igni succenderunt, & omne loci nobilis aedificium in campi planitiem redegerunt.

Jacuit pene neglectum corpus Oswini regis, usque ad tempora Tostii comitis, & Egelwini episcopi.

Oswinus Martyr apparuit in somnis (Eadmundo) aedituo veteris eccl. S. Mariae de Tinemuth.

Juditha uxor Tostii comitis, persuasit Egelwino, ut quaeriret Oswini Corpus.

Inventio corpuris S. Oswini Martyris anno ab ejus passione 414. A. D. 1065, quinto Id. Martii.

Corpus Oswini translatum in novum monasterium de Tinemuth A. D. 1110. 13 Cal. Sept.

Ibid. vol. 3. p. 114 and 115.

Grant of King William Rufus.

Willielmus Rex Angl. T. Archiepiscopo & W. Dunelmensi Episcopo & omnibus Baronibus sus Francis & Anglis salutem. sciatis me dedisse & concessisse Deo & S. Albano Ecclesiam de Tinemotha & omnia quae ad eam pertinent in terris et Decimis et consuetudinibus & nort de Tyne & in suth de Tyne & in Anglia cum omnibus quae Robertus Comes Northumberland & sui homines dederant sancto Oswino antiquam mihi forisfactus esset. Et volo & praecipio ut S. Albanus habeat praedictam Ecclesiam cum omnibus ad eam pertinentibus cum pace & honore & omni jure perpetuo Testibus Eudone, Dapifew & P. de Valonis, apud Novum Castrum.

Dated at Canterbury, 4th Nov. in the 1st year of Richard I.

Richardus Rex, &c. Notum facimus vobis nos concessisse, &c. Deo & sancto Albano Ecclesiae suae sancti Oswini de Tynemuth cellae sancti Albani & Monachis ibidem deo seventibus omnes terras suas & omnes homines suos, cum sacha soca over strond et streme, on wode et felde, toll them & grithburge, hamfocne, murdrum & forestall, danegeld, infangenethof & utfangenethef, fleminefrenieth, blodwit, wreck, &c.

Exposition of terms.

- Sacha. Hoc est placitum & emenda de transgressionibus hominum in curia vestra.

- Soca. Hoc est secta de hominibus in curia vestra secundum consuetudinem Regni. Over strond et streme, &c. In Littore in fluvio, in sylva & campo.

- Them. Theme est quod habeatis totam generationem villanorum vestrorum cum eorum sectis & catallis ubicunque inventi fuerunt, &c.

- Grithburge. Power of punishing breaches of the peace.

- Hamsocne. Now called burglary.

- Murdrum. Anciently defined, Homicidium quod nullo praesente, nullo audiente, nullo vidente clam perpetratur.

- Dane geld. A land tax of 12d. upon every hide of land imposed by the Danes.

- Infangenethef & utfangenethef. Power of apprehending and punishing thiefs, as well taken within the liberty as without.

- Fleminefrenieth. The relief of fugitives.

- Blodwit. Pains of bloodshed.

- Wrecke. Wrecks of the sea.

↵

*
Adam Bemensis says, "That in the spoil of the invaders there was as much gold taken, as twelve young men with difficulty bore on their shoulders."
↵

*

Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, A. D. 1073, gave to the Monks of Durham the Church of our Lady at Tynemouth, with the body of St Oswin, King and Martyr, there interred, and died 1075.

Mon. Aug. v. 1. p. 42.

↵

†

Albrius Comes Northumb. donationem de Tinemuth confirmavit ecclesiae S. Cuthberti.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 332.

↵

‡

Robertus de Mulbraio circa annum D. 1090, restauravit Eccl. S. Oswini martyr: apud Tynemuthe, & eam tanquam cellam monaster. S. Albani designavit. Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 418.

Robertus Mowbray comes Northum. abstulit Tinemuth monachis Dunelmensibus, & dedit Paulo abbati & monachis S. Albani. Offensum Gul. Mag. timens Tinemuthe loco castelli occupat, postea tamen ibidem Captus.

Ibid. p. 332.

Ossa S. Oswini translata a Tinemuth ad Girwi permissione Walthevi Comitis.

Ibid. p. 383.

- Fr. Clem. Westmynster Monachi de Tynmouthe Ord Pb̄ri. 20 Dec. 1533.

- Fr. Rob. London Monachi de Tynmouthe Ord Pb̄ri. 20 Dec. 1533.

- Fr. Will. Facetus Monachi de Tynmouthe Ord Pb̄ri. 20 Dec. 1533.

- Reg. Tustal. p. 16.

- Prima Tonsura, i. e. Shavelings.

- Tho. Duresme, Rob. Charite Monachi Mon. de Tynmouthe, 18 Dec. 1533.

- Geo. Faythe, Edw. Hope Monachi Mon. de Tynmouthe, 18 Dec. 1533.

Ibid. p. 23.

Cuth. Baleye Dun. Dioc. ad Tit̄lm mon. de Tynm. Pb̄r tunc.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*

These possessions are thus mentioned by Mr Wallis and Mr Grose.

The Priors and Canons of Tynmouth had 27 villas in Northumberland belonging to them, with their royalties, viz. Tynemouth, Miluton, Shields, East Chirton, East Preston, Monckton, Whitley, Murton, Ersden, Backworth, Seghill, Wolsington, Dissington, Elswick, Wylam, Hertford, Cowpon, Bebsed, Welden, Hauxley, Ambell, Eglingham, Bewick, Lilburn, Flatworth, Middle Chirton, West Chirton. Within these Lordships they returned the King's writs, and were exempt from cornage.

They had also the lands of Royeley and Denum.

They had the Tyths of Corbridge, Ovington, Wylam, Newburn, Dissington, Callerton, Elswick, Bothall, Warkworth, Ambell, Rothbury, and Wooler in Northumberland. Also the Tithes of Hertness, in the Bishoprick of Durham, and of Middleton upon Tees.

They had the impropriations and advowsons of Tynmouth, Woodhorn, Whalton, Bolham, Bewick, Eglingham, Hartfurn, Shilbottle, and Haltwesel, in Northumberland, and Conscliff, in the Bishoprick of Durham.

They had 17 messuages, and a close called Warden's close, in Newcastle upon Tyne.

They had a weekly market at their town of Berwick, and an annual fair at Tynemouth. Also a harbour, called the Priors Harbour.

Ralph Lord Greystock founded a Chantry in 1315, and John Lord Greystock and Sir Robert Somerville made several donations to the Priory, with several others.

Wallis. Grose.

The Priors harbour is now the public bathing place.

King Henry I. confirmed all that had been given to this monastery by Mowbray, viz. Tyths of Corbridge, Ovington, Wylam, Newburn, Dissington, Calverdon, Elstroye, Bothall, Werkworth, Anebell, Roubyr, and Wullour.

David King of Scots, by his charter A. D. 1138, granted to this church his peace for ever, the peace of his son, and that of all his servants, threatning all those who should act otherwise with the loss of his favour for ever; on condition the religious of this monastery prayed for the souls of his father and mother, and of King Alex. his brother, and the soul of Matilda Queen of England, his sister, and for the souls of all his ancestors and successors.

King Henry II. gave thereto Egleringham, Bewick, and Dilleburn.

King John confirmed all their possessions, viz.

Tynmouth, Seaton, Preston, Chirton, Churton, Millington, Whitley, Edeston Backwell, Backwell, Seghal, Morton, Bebeside, Disslington, Dissington, Wulsington, Bewick, Egelingham, Lilleburn, Anibel, Hovekslaw, Estwick, Wylum, Weltedane, and half of Copun, Carleberry and Morton in Haliwerkstock, and the land of Royeley and Demuni; also the churches of Tinmouth, Wodeburn, Whalton, Bolum, Bewick, Egelingham, Kertburh and Cunestine; likewise Hereford upon Blyth, and the tythe of Hyrenes, Middleton upon Theyse, Corbrigg, Rouber, Werkewuriel, Wollour and Newburn, with all the mills.

Richard Bertram gave the tyths of Bothal.

King Edward III. confirmed all the possessions, immunities, &c.

Ra•son of William Fitz Ralph, Lord of Grimethorp, in the county of York, founded a Chantry at Tynemouth for the soul of John Lord Graystock, who died in the 34th year of King Edward I. his kinsman, and all his ancestors, and died an aged man about the feast of All Saints A. D. 1316, 9th King Edward II. and was buried at Nesham, in the county palatine of Durham.

↵

*

E Libello de locis quibus S. in Angl. requiescunt.

Apud Tinemutham S. Oswinus rex & martyr & S. Herebaldus Abbas ejufdem Loci.

Lel. Col. v. 2. p. 408.

↵

*
Grose.
↵

NORTH SHIELDS,

which is not improperly compared to Wapping: the streets, lanes, and alleys are narrow, dirty, populace, and noisy. It is astonishing what business is incessantly going on here: we were told there lay in harbour, even at that season of the year, above 400 sail of ships of considerable burthen. The crews of such a number of vessels, the carpenpenters, ropers, victuallers, and men concerned in the merchandizing of such a fleet, must necessarily occasion a mighty concourse and bustle: to which being added the family of sailors residing here, makes the place resemble a hive of bees.

Shields has advanced to its present state of populousness, trade, and riches, from a very low estate, within the space of two centuries: the church was begun to be built in the year 1659: in the beginning of the reign of King Edward I. it consisted only of six fishermen's hovels. By the arguments in a cause depending between the King and his Burgesses of Newcastle and the Prior of Tynemouth, in the 20th year of that reign, it appears, that the Prior had built a town upon the bank of the water of Tyne on one side, and the Prior of Durham another on the other side, where no towns ought to be, only lodges for fishermen; and that the fishermen had there sold their fishes, which ought to have been sold at Newcastle: and that both the said Priors had caused to be made breweries and fisheries, having great ships, whereas they ought to have had but boats; and had caused bread to be baked there, which ought to have been baked at Newcastle. It was decreed, that neither at Tynemouth or Shields there be any sale of things saleable, as in meats, drinks, &c. and that ships should not be laden or unladen there. This will serve to shew what was the state of this place in the 13th century.

We took a boat to examine this busy scene upon the water: the sight of so many vessels, and such a concourse of people, is very pleasing: it consequently brings to one's mind, reflections on the powers of human faculties. The genius of man is infinite; if we could be taught for 1000 years, we should discover at that period, from the learning we had acquired, that we had an infinity of subjects yet to learn: for the more knowledge man attains, the wider circle of objects unattained opens upon him. As the scale of numerical calculation is without end; as the variations of musical tones are infinite; so is man's genius. By the use of letters we have accumulated the learning of ages; yet after the conclusion of a few centuries, all our acquisitions will perhaps appear to posterity, as but minute members of the science of mankind. Before the use of letters, with the fall of empires, the accumulated knowledge of ages expired with them; but henceforth it will not be so.

How wonderfully perfect is all maritime science now, to what it was in the most flourishing period of the Egyptian and Phoenician states! We are told the timber for building the temple at Jerusalem was floated in rafts: This shews the force of the shipping then employed. The mariners of antiquity seldom trusted themselves from the sight of the coast. The Grecian and Roman fleets were composed of insignificant vessels, compared with a British navy. The discovery of the magnet has given infinite powers to the Mariner; our geometrical principles have fitted our vessels for swift sailing and the carriage of great burthens. The ark of Noah was little better than a huge cask rolling on the face of the deep; whose preservation was miraculous, and not mechanical, amidst the perils of an universal ocean. The vessels of the Phoenicians were little superior to our lime-boats; their rigging and devices for sailing greatly inferior: and the most excellent of the Roman gallies comparable only to the gilded barges of a Lord Mayor's shew. The most superb vessel we read of in antiquity was constructed by Archimedes: ‘it was a whole year in building—had twenty benches of oars; the enormous pile was fastened together on all sides with huge nails of copper, that weighed each ten pounds and upwards: the inside had in it three galleries or corridors; the lowest of which led to the hold by a descent of stairs; the second to apartments, and the first to soldiers lodgings.’

‘On the right and left side of the middle gallery, there were to the number of thirty apartments; in each of which were four beds for men. The apartment for the officers and seamen had 15 beds, and three great rooms for eating; the last of which that was at the poop served for a kitchen. All the floors of these apartments were laid with small stories in different colours, taken from the Iliad of Homer. The ceilings, windows, and all the other parts were finished with wonderful art, and embellished with all kinds of ornaments.’

‘In the uppermost gallery there was a gymnasium or place of exercise, and walks proportionate to the magnitude of the ship. In them were gardens and plants of all kinds, disposed in wonderful order. Pipes, some of hardened clay and others of lead, conveyed water all round to refresh them. There was also arbours of ivy and vines, that had their roots in great vessels filled with earth. These vessels were watered in the same manner with the gardens. The arbours served to shade the walks.’

‘After these came the apartments of Venus with three beds. This was floored with agates and other precious stones, the finest that could be found in the island. The walls and roof were of Cyprus wood. The windows were adorned with ivory, paintings, and small statues. In another apartment there was a library, at the top of which, on the outside, was fixed a sun-dial.’

‘There was also an apartment with three beds for a bath, in which were three great coppers, and a bathing vessel made of a single stone of various colours. This vessel contained 250 quarts. At the ship's head was a great reservoir of water, which held an hundred thousand quarts. All round the ship, on the outside, were atlasses of six cubits or nine feet in height, which supported the sides of the ship: these atlasses were at equal distance from each other. The ship was adorned on all sides with paintings, and had eight towers, proportioned to its bigness; two at the head, two at the stern, and four in the middle, of equal dimensions. Upon these towers were parapets, from which stones might be discharged upon the ships of an enemy that should approach too near. Each tower was guarded by four young men compleatly armed and two archers; the inside of them was filled with stones and arrows.’

‘Upon the side of the vessel, well strengthened with planks, was a a kind of rampart, on which was an engine to discharge stones, made by Archimedes: it threw a stone of 300 weight and an arrow of 12 cubits the distance of a stadium or 125 paces. The ship had three masts, at each of which were two machines to discharge stones. There also were the hooks and great lumps of lead to throw upon such as approached. The whole ship was surrounded with a rampart of iron to keep off those who should attempt to board it. All round were iron graplings disposed, which being thrown by the machines, might catch hold on the enemy's vessel, and draw them close to the ship, from whence it was easy to destroy them. On each of the sides were 60 young men compleatly armed: there were as many about the masts and at the engines for throwing stones.’

‘Tho' the hold of this ship was exceeding deep, a single man could clear it of all water with a machine made in the nature of a screw, invented by Archimedes.’

‘Hiero having found there was no port in Sicily capable of containing this vessel, except where it could not lay without Danger, resolved to make a present of it to King Ptolemy, and sent it to Alexandria.’ [*]

This was a more unwieldy and ungovernable mass than Noah's ark: the comparison made between them and our shipping, excites no small degree of wonder how they could ever perform the navigation for which they were respectively designed.

What luxury, what ease and splendour doth Britain enjoy, from the labour of her Mariners! things which we have rendered the common necessaries of our lives, are furnished from the distant quarters of the earth! even the very lower classes mix the produce of the East and West Indies for their common meal; our dwellings are decorated from all the regions of the world, and our tables are furnished with the dainties of every climate—the ancient eastern empires did not enjoy one half of our splendour or our luxury.

When I compare this scene of man to the Shepherds haunts on the skirts of Cheviot mountains, I am astonished on each hand: at the wasted life and faculties of the Shepherd, and at the extended powers of the busy race before me.

We passed by Howden Pans, where a large ropery and smithery are carried on.

Notes

*
This is supposed to be Ptolemaeus Philadelphus.
↵

WALL's END

lay in our way, formerly belonging to the Monks of Durham, given to them by William De Carilepho, Bishop of that See, in the year 1082; a pretty village, the name evidently derived from its situation on the extremity of the Picts wall.[*] At a little distance lies

Notes

*
At the east end of the village is the school-house, given by the sister of James Moncaster, Esq

Wallis.

↵

CARR VILLE,

once the seat of the Cosens's, named by Mr William Carr, who rebuilt it not many years ago. Near it is the extreme Roman station on the wall. By most Antiquaries it is admitted to be the Segedunum of the Romans, a name derived from its situation, and being a magazine for corn, for the supply of the Roman stations.[*] It lay conveniently for the small vessels employed by the Romans on the coast, to scour the seas of piratical rovers. From the ruins, it seems to have had a quay for the convenience of merchandize; or perhaps was decorated with some pleasure buildings on the shore. It was the station of the first cohort of the Lergi. In the walls of Mr Cousins's seat, before it was rebuilt, Mr Horsley observed several Roman inscriptions, which are preserved in his work. Severus's wall has very manifestly terminated in a square fort or station, above a furlong to the east of the mansion called Cousins's House. The ruins of a Roman station and town at this place are very discernible, though it has all been ploughed, and is now a very rich meadow. The stones and rubbish of the buildings are levelled, and covered with earth and grass, but yet the ramparts of the fort may be distinctly traced out, both they and the ditch being visible, almost quite round.

In Mr Warburton's Vallum Romanum, and Mr Horsley's Brit. Rom. are the following particulars, which I will transcribe, as at the time I visited this station I could not traverse the ground without injuring the crops growing. ‘There are very evident remains of two turrets at the western and eastern entries to the station, and of another at the southwest corner. The west entry has been close to the wall, and the eastern one directly opposite to it. The fort has been about 140 yards, or perhaps six chains square, and so the contents of it above three acres and an half. About 60 yards of the western and eastern sides lie without, or to the north of the line of the wall, and eighty within it; so that the wall falls upon the sides of the station, not far from the middle of them. The south rampart of this fort is about three quarters of a furlong from the river side, and runs along the brow of the hill, or at the head of a considerable descent from thence to the river. There have been ruins of buildings on this part and to the south-west of the fort; but they are now so levelled and covered, that little evidence appears above ground; yet the stones and remains of rubbish are easily discovered, when the surface is any where removed: and some of these inequalities in the surface, which usually arise from ruins, yet remain, and may easily be perceived to be hillocks of stones or rubbish.’ [*] Mr Gordon supposes, that the wall itself forms almost a right angle, and then is continued down to the side of the river: but it is the western rampart of the station which makes that angle with the wall: nor does this rampart reach the river, though it is likely the town or buildings without the fort may have extended so far. On the north side of the station there are some crooked risings and setlings of the ground, which at first view appeared to me not unlike a round fort or tower, projecting from the station with a triple rampart and ditch. The two closes in which the Roman town and station have stood, are called Wall Lawes. If the name Lawes be owing to the rising ground only, the termination Lawes or Lowes, which signifies hills, so far corresponds to the Roman name Segedunum. But as there were two distinct Tumuli observed by Mr Warburton remaining near a place he calls the Beehouses, and not far from these closes, he apprehends that from them they have borrowed this name; a Lawe or Lowe being one of those names by which Tumuli are frequently expressed. There was an altar and some centurial inscriptions at Cousins's House, in Mr Horsleys time.

The wall having left this station, passes on westward, and at a little distance the remains of a castellum are visible. It is 60 feet square, like those mentioned in the most western parts of this county, it is built close to the wall, and wholly within it, on the south side. From hence the wall passes by Walker or Wallkier or Byker Hill, and thence descends to Ewesburn, where are some ruinous heaps, which may probably have been the remains of some of the smaller exploratory turrets that have been placed all the way upon the wall. Hence the wall seems to have passed through the house at Red Barns, and enters Newcastle at Pandon Gate.

Mr Horsley and other authors seem very doubtful of the vestiges of the military way, from the wall's end to Newcastle. Near the Red Barns, and upon the descent from Byker Hill to Ewesburn, they conceived the track where it had gone might in some places be traced, but the appearance was so very faint and obscure, they would not insist upon it.

‘As for Hadrian's vallum, Mr Warburton says he could no where in all this space discern the least track of it; nor did he ever hear of any traditionary account of its having been there.’—Mr Pennant[*] says, ‘it was supposed to have reached no further than Pons Aelii, or Newcastle, on the east. But by an account he had recently received from Mr Robert Harrison of that town, he found it extended on this side as far as the wall of Severus. A broken stone has lately been discovered at Wall's End with this inscription:’

HADR—

MVR. COND—

HOC. MARM—

POS. COSS D—

The distance from the station at the end of the wall to St. Nicholas's church in Newcastle, is exactly three measured miles and five furlongs, and in this space there are three castella all visible: that which should have been next in course, is lost in the station at Newcastle.

Notes

*

From the Manuscripts of the late Roger Gale, Esq Extract of a letter from Chris. Hunter. M. D. to Roger Gale, Esq

SIR,
Durham, 17th May, 1735.

Give me leave to attempt the recovery of one of the Roman stations in this country, both requisite for the security of navigation in the northern seas, and the protection of their frontiers beyond the river Tyne, thereby saving the great expence and trouble of building the wall as far as the sea at Tynemouth, no less than three miles at least; I mean that near South Shields, at the entrance of the said river into the ocean, and which cannot but have flourished till the Danish invasions, as Mr Leland has it in his Collectanea, vol. iv. p. 43. E Regione Tinmuthae fuit urbs vastata a Danis, Urfa nomine ubi natus erat Oswinus Rex.

The communication it had with Binchester is visible in several places, as is the angle where the paved way goes off from the military way leading to Lanchester, about three miles to the north of Binchester, and passes to the north-east through Brancepeth Park, thence a little to the south of Brandon, and is lost in the cultivated grounds, but appearing upon Durham Moor in the same direction again, passing by Haghouse and below upon Harbrass Moor is very visible tending past Lumley Castle in a direct line towards South Shields, passing about a mile to the east of Chester in the Street, without any signs of communication therewith. Two elevated pavements in the river Tyne, the one at the west end of South Shields, the other on the north side of the river, near the end of the Roman wall, proper for their safe landing at different times of the flowing and ebbing tide, fully shews its necessary correspondence with Segedunum, the first station upon the wall: but another military way called Wreken Dyke passing from this station to the west, has hitherto frustrated the enquiries of our late Antiquaries; Mr Horsley himself pointing out its ductus very justly over Gateside Fell, where it passed the public road, and a little to the west the Roman way going to the south from Newcastle to Chester in the Street, and afterwards running through Lamesley and Kibblesworth Fields, advances to the southwest over Blackburn Moor, and through the township of Hedley; it comes next to Causey, a village which owes its name to it, and from thence ascends a high hill, and terminates at a square fortification upon the top thereof at Stanley, the seat of the Hon. Sir Nicholas Tempest, Bart. who I am told possesses several Roman coins found therein.

This place, tho' not above three miles from Chester in the Street, and four from Lanshester, seems to have had no immediate communication with either of them, no vestigia of any paved way appearing upon the adjoining moors, and being situated as Chester itself, at the termination of a military way, gives me convincing reason to believe the use of each has been the same, namely, to guard herds of cattle at grass, for the subsistence of the two garrisons of South Shields and Pons Aelii, and for victualling ships resorting to the first place; whereas had its elevated situation been intended to form a castrum exploratorium, then must the advantage of paved ways to the next stations have been necessary, for the speedy conveyance of intelligence. Tho' this last military way bears the name of Wreken Dyke, I am apt to believe that name is rather due to the way leading from Binchester to South Shields, especially from the authority of Ranulph Higden, who says the Wreken Dyke or Reken Dyke passed from the west of England and ended at Tinemouth. I dare not fix a Roman name to this our station without the authority of inscriptions.

I am, Sir, &c. CHRIS. HUNTER.

↵

*

Mr Horsley gives the following inscriptions as belonging to this place:

I. Cohortis primae centuria Fiari posuit.

This stone with the five next (as also a piece of an altar and part of a pedestal) are all placed in niches in the outside of the wall belonging to Cousins House, where they have stood unobserved and neglected for many years, and being exposed to the winds and weather, have suffered very much by that means. I cannot find that the least notice has been taken of them before; the four first are plainly centurial, such as were generally placed in the face of the wall, and are rarely found in any other station. Hence we have one argument, that this station was built at the same time with the wall, in the reign of Severus. The cohorts mentioned in these inscriptions were certainly legionary. The mark for the century is very clear and distinct in all of them, and the names of the centurions, as in most others of the same kind, are in the genitive. For which reason, I think, that the mark is not to be read centurio, but centuria, (as it is frequently read in Gruter) and that posuit is to be supplied or understood at the end; so that cohortis primae centuria fiari, is much the same as to say, such a Captain's company of such a regiment. Indeed centurio cohortis, or the centurion of a cohort, does often occur in inscriptions, but does not necessarily imply, that the whole command of the cohort was in a single centurion; for we have also centurio legionis and miles legionis, which can signify no more than such a person was a centurion or a soldier in such a legion.

III —

- COH X. — Erected by the century of Justinus Secundus in the tenth cohort.

- IVSTINI — Erected by the century of Justinus Secundus in the tenth cohort.

- SECVNDI — Erected by the century of Justinus Secundus in the tenth cohort.

IV—Cohortis decimae centuria Siinsi Prisci posuit.

This has sustained more damage than the former, by being exposed to the weather; for the number of the cohort is effaced. The mark for the century is also faint, and one of the centurion's names very obscure, but the other name Priscus is plain and clear, the letters being gross, tho' short, and cut very deep in the stone. The former name Siinsus sounds somewhat oddly, but there are many as uncouth in Gruter.

VI. Jovi Optimo Maximo.

A small altar, no other inscription appearing.

↵

*
Tour in Scotland, vol. II. p. 289.
↵

LITTLE BENTON and LONG BENTON

were in our view as we passed. Little Benton, one of the manors of the barony of Heron, of which it was held by Eustace de Benton in the reign of King Henry III. now the residence of the family of Bigge. [†] In the 11th year of King Edward II. it belonged to Jeffrey de Scroop, of Masham, in Yorkshire; afterwards it came to Ralph Lord Greystock; and in the reign of King Henry VI. it was the possession of William Fitz Hugh, and by him given to his son Henry.

Long Benton, a dependant manor of the barony of Morpeth. The church stands at a little distance from the village, which with some lands in the parish were given by Sir Philip Somerville to Baliol College, Oxford, for the perpetual maintenance of six Scholars.

Notes

†

William Bigge, Esq High Sheriff of Northumberland 1751.

Thomas Charles Bigge, Esq High Sheriff 1771.

Wallis.

↵

HEATON

lay to our right, anciently held of the barony of Gaugy, now the possession of Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. an elegant mansion, ornamented with plantations in a good taste. The following account of this place and its possessors, I have extracted from the notes of Mr Bourne's History of Newcastle, page 114:

‘It has been handed down by tradition to the present day, that this was a place of retreat for King John, when he came into this country; and there are still to be seen the ruins of an ancient building, which carries the name of King John's palace. On the north side of this old building are the remains of a fortification, which 'tis natural to conjecture was built for the safety and security of this house, and consequently this house must have been of some great distinction. Robert de Gaugy was a great man in the reign of King John, and had special trust reposed in him by his Sovereign, and it is not improbable when the King came to these parts he lodged at this house.’

‘The present house was built in the year 1713, and is so situated, that on the west it overlooks the Town Moor, Fenham, and part of the lands of the Prior of Tinmouth; on the east it faces the Shields road; on the north it has a most agreeable prospect to the windings of the Ouse burn, of its woods and banks, and of the villages situated on it; on the south it faces the river Tyne.’

‘Hardriding, near Haltwhistle, is the ancient seat of the Ridley family: above one of the old doors there a date earlier than the conquest appears, and the initial letters of the builder N. R. This was a younger branch of the Ridleys of Willimoteswicke: of which branch was John Ridley, a Major in the service of King Charles I. in the Duke of Newcastle's army.’

‘Bishop Nicholas Ridley was of this branch, and was born here (Mr Bourn says) I presume he means at Hardriding. He was educated in grammar at Newcastle on Tyne. He suffered in 1555, near Baliol College, in Oxford.’

"Dr. Thomas Ridley was also of this family. He died in 1628."

To our left lay

BYKER,

great part of which is the property of Sir Henry Lawson, Bart. It belonged anciently to the Bikers, who we find possessed thereof in the reign of King Henry III.[*] and from that time to the 19th of King Edward III. In the reign of King Henry VI. it was part of the possessions of the Percys. In the 2d of King Edward IV. being in the Crown, was granted to the Duke of Clarence, the King's brother. The first possession of the Lawsons [†] is noted in the escheats of the 10th of Queen Elizabeth. The manor was anciently held in grand serjeancy, by carrying the King's writ between the rivers Tyne and Coquet, and making distresses of goods for the King's debts.

We approached Newcastle by Pampeden Gate. It is not my purpose to attempt a particular history or description of this place; the subject is too complicated and extensive to be treated at large, consistent with the plan I have hitherto pursued: a general account is all I shall attempt. A worthy friend is compiling, with great labour and industry, and at vast expence, a general history and minute description of New-castle: to his labours I must refer the curious, who I doubt not will find therein infinite pleasure and satisfaction.

Notes

*

- Nicholas de Biker Temp. King Henry III.

- Robert King Edward I.

- John 13 King Edward III.

- Roger 19 King Edward III.

Wallis.

↵

†

- Sir Ralph Lawson, Knt. 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- Henry Lawson, Esq Same reign.

- Roger

- Ibid.

↵

NEWCASTLE,

though greatly increased in size, wealth, trade, and number of inhabitants since Camden's time, then merited the following description: ‘It makes a glorious appearance, as the very eye of all the towns in this part of the kingdom; ennobled by a fine haven, where ships of great burthen lay in security. It is situate on the uneven risings of a hill, north of the river Tyne, over which is a fair bridge: on the left hand thereof stands the castle, and on the right the Market-place, and principal part of the city, in regard to the elegance of its buildings. From thence the ascent is very steep to the upper town, which is of much greater extent than the lower, graced with four churches, and fortified with strong walls, having eight gates, with several towers.’ This description given by Camden, compared with the present state of the town, will clearly point out the great improvements made therein since his time.

It is admitted by all Antiquaries that this place is of Roman origin,[*] but of what importance or magnitude the Roman station was which occupied a part of this ground, no evidence appears. Camden adopts the name of Gabrosentum, which he thinks might be derived from its vicinity to the steeps on the opposite shore of Tyne, as being the haunt of herds of goats. These etymologies are sometimes so constrained, that they rather bewilder than instruct. It is as probable the name of Gabrosentum might from the same cause extend to the cliffs and hills on both sides of the river. The Notitia places Gabrosentum within the wall, and makes it the station of the second cohort of Thracians. Other Antiquaries [*] insist upon its name of Pons Aelii, where the Romans had a bridge to the southern shore, and that it was garrisoned by the Cohors Cornoviorum: this they attempt to confirm, from the traces of a military road discovered in a lineal direction from the bridge to Chester-le-street. Dr. Stukeley conjectures that this was the station Admurum of Richard of Cirencester,[†] in his Map of Britania Romana. No altars or inscriptions have been discovered to ascertain the name. If there was once a Roman station here, every vestigia thereof must long since have been destroyed, by the works of a large populous and ancient town. The remains of the Roman wall, or wall of Severus, have frequently been discovered by workmen, in digging the foundations of buildings in those parts of the town through which it lay. It passed from the west through the Vicarage gardens, the Groat Market, the north part of St. Nicholas's church, and from thence to Pandon Gate. This gate bears singular marks of antiquity; the superstructure is of different workmanship and model from any others on the town wall; the arches are circular, and there appears that natural decay on the whole structure, which might happen in such a number of years. Camden says, ‘at Pandon Gate there remains, it is presumed, one of the turrets of the Roman wall, differing in form and workmanship from the others on the walls of the town.’ By the dimensions which I took of this gateway, I find it nearly-corresponds with the other ports or gates in the Roman wall. It is said the Carpenters Tower is also of Roman original. The reputed antiquity of Pandon Gate is denoted in a proverb of common acceptation: "As old as Pandon Yates."

We have no authorities to fix the certain aera when or by whom this place was first inhabited from the evacuation of the Romans, or how long it remained deserted after their departure: like other strongholds within the defence of the Roman wall, it is reasonable to conceive it was very early resorted to by the distressed Britons, and was kept up by them as a place of security against the northern rovers. The first name we find it distinguished by in history was Monkchester, ‘which shews that it was noted for being the habitation of religious men.’ [‡] What society of religious (and whether Saxons or not) took up their residence here, at what time they first possessessed the place, or when they were expelled, are circumstances unknown: all the evidence remaining is the name only. Bede in his Ecclesiastical History and Life of St. Cuthbert is totally silent relative to them; and as his residence was at Jarrow, situated within a few miles, and he died in 735, the name of Monkchester and the residence of those religious must have succeeded his death. Mr Pennant says, ‘their destruction must have been early, for the venerable Bede takes no notice of the place. The ruin therefore of this place cannot be attributed to the Danes, whose first invasion did not take place till after the death of that Historian.’ It appears to me the argument holds the other way; for had it been the residence of any religious society who suffered persecution, before or in the time of Bede, he would have noticed it. Fifty-nine years elapsed between the time of Bede's death and the first descent of the Danes on Northumberland: in this period of time the increase of religious houses was very rapid, and it is reasonable to conceive such examples as Landisfarn and Jarrow had produced, would greatly promote like institutions in their neighbourhood. From Hollinshead's authority we are induced to believe, that on the visitation of Aldwin, Alfrin, and Remfrid, in 1074, ‘there was not a monastery remaining in this part of Northumberland, and scarce a church was left standing.’

This was a desirable situation for the Danes, when they entered the Tyne: and to that aera I am inclined to fix the destruction of the religious society which had settled here, and from whose residence the name of Monkchester was derived.

In 1080, when Robert Courthose, the son of William the Conqueror, returned from his Scotch expedition, he halted here to refresh his army; and finding the situation proper for a fortress to command the turbulent Borderers, and the river well adapted for the reception of succours by sea, as well as trade, built a castle here, to which he gave the name of Newcastle, in contradistinction (it is said) to a small circular tower[*] which the Monks held, or to the Roman turrets on the wall.

From this period we may date the growing importance of the place: the protection of a fortress on the banks of so fine a river, would draw thither a great number of setlers, and trade would soon begin to flourish under such propitious circumstances. There was so rapid a progress in its improvements, that before the death of King David I. of Scotland, who held it as a member of his earldom of Northumberland, it was become a place of great importance, David having founded here two monasteries.[*] Tanner says a nunnery was founded here as early as the conquest.

Newcastle was defended by a strong wall, and an outward ditch of great depth, now much gone to decay. From Leland's account it appears, that this fortification was begun in the reign of King Edward I. and compleated in the reign of King Edward III. A rich citizen having been taken prisoner in the middle of the town, by the hasty irruption of a hardy band of Scots, who would not set him at liberty without a considerable sum for his ransom, on his return he set about to secure his native place by a wall; his fellow-citizens promoting so important a work for the protection of their merchandize and riches. In the 19th year of the reign of King Edward I. the royal licence for fortification was obtained. But it is the opinion of some that the northern wall was built in the reign of King John, and that the remaining part of this fortification began from the above event in the reign of Edward I. [†] The circuit of the wall rather exceeds two miles: [‡] it is defended by towers, the chief of which are of a cemicircular figure; machicolated towers are intermixed, but not regularly, which project a little over the wall; and there are also many guerrets.‖

There were seven ancient gates,[§] the names of which, together with those of the towers, point out the many contributors to so considerable a work. To these gates two were added in more modern times; Bridge Gate, which guarded the pass of the bridge, and Sand Gate, which opens upon the river's banks. The wall formerly extended between Bridge Gate and Sand Gate, which part some few years ago was taken down to open the quay: an alteration greatly for the convenience of trade. The form of the wall there proved it to be of the most modern date of any part of the fortifications, there being therein many small gates to give access to the quays. Sand Gate had no tower above it as the other gates.

THE GATE OF WALK-KNOWLE is said by some to be of Roman architecture,[*] and part of Severus's work; its present superstructure, is modern, being the hall of the Carpenters company.[†]

PAMPEDON is the next gate, formerly opening upon an ancient town of that name, which was united with Newcastle by the grant of King Henry III. A. D. 1299, whereby it was ordained, ‘Et quod praedicta villa Novi castri et terrae & tenemen, predict. in Pampedon unica villa etcet. sunt, et unus Burgus, ad uniend. et concludend. dictam vallam Novi castri in emendationem et augmentationem ejus villae, &c.’ It is said that in Pampedon was a palace of the Saxon Kings of Northumberland. [‡] This gateway was defended by folding gates of iron:[§] the present ascent to the top of the wall is by stairs two yards wide. From the remains of the superstructure it is not, at this time, possible to gain any certain idea of the form or capaciousness of the Roman turrets.

The part of the wall which extends from Sand Gate to Pampedon, and from thence to the Austin Fryers Tower, is pointed out by Mr Wallis, as being the work of the Burgher, who was surprized by the Scots. King Edward III. granted to the Corporation the duties and customs of the town for the term of seven years, to enable them to compleat the fortification; but finding them negligent of a work of such importance, he revoked the grant, and constituted Henry de Percy, Ralph de Nevil, John de Fenwick, John de Creyk, and Robert de Fenwick, then Sheriff of Northumberland, Commissioners for keeping the town; after which the franchises were not restored to the Burgesses 'till they consented to perfect the work at their own costs.[*] In the reign of King Henry VIII. this place is said to have exceeded in the strength and magnificence of its works, all the cities of England, and most places in Europe.[†]

A small tower called Corner Tower.

Austin Tower succeeds next in course, said to be built by the Friars of the order of St Austin for defence of their monastery, which stood near to it. It is now the hall of the Ropers Company, who repaired it A. D. 1698.

Carliol Tower is next, deriving its name, as it is conjectured, from one of the family of Carliols, who were ancient burgesses here. Nicholas carliol was mayor in the second year of the reign of King Edward II. during whose mayoralty perhaps this tower was erected. It was repaired A. D. 1682, and fitted up as a hall for the Company of Weavers.

The next in succession on the wall is Pilgrim-street Gate, being the great passage of Pilgrims to the shrine of the Virgin Mary at Jesmond, or Jesus Mount: as being one of the principal approaches from the north, this is a very strong edifice, flat roofed with embrazures, a port cullis and iron gates. A. D. 1716 it was repaired and made the hall of the Company of Joiners.

Ficket Tower is next, of which nothing remarkable is noted by Bourne and others.

Bertam Mon Coucher tower is next. A person of this name was High Sheriff of the county of Northumberland in the 40th year of of King Edward the Third's reign, and for three successive years in the reign of King Richard II. but in what manner he was a contributor to these fortifications, or how this tower happened to take his name is not known.

New Gate is next, the common prison, for which use its works are constructed of superior strength. The original gate was supposed to be one of the most ancient parts of this fortification, the Roman towers excepted. The present edifice is modern, the north front being ornamented with a statue of King Charles II. two wings were added within this century, one A. D. 1702, the other A. D. 1706, to enlarge and render the prison more commodious.

Andrew Tower seems to derive its name from its vicinity to the church of St Andrews.

Eure Tower, said to be built by the Eures, Lords of Kirkley and Barons of Witton in the county of Durham. The Colliers, Waggoners, and Paviors now use it as their hall.

Morden Tower, repaired A. D. 1700 for the hall of the Plumbers, Glaziers, &c. who were incorporated in the year 1536.

Black Friars Gate, built under authority of the royal Licence of Edward I.[*] ‘Evardus dei gratiae rex Angliae, dominus Hiberniae Dux Aquitaniae, omnibus ad quos presentes Literae pervenerint, salutem. Sciatis quod de nostra gratia speciali concessimus dilectibus nostris fratribus praedicatoribus de novo castro super Tynam, quod per medium novum murum circumagentem villam praedictam, quem per medium gardini praedictorum fratrum fieri oportebit, ut dicti facere possint, quandam strictam portam ad ingressum in Gardinum suum habend. portam sust. sibi et successoribus suis, tenere in perpetuum. Dum tamen porta illa ad voluntatem Nostram, vice comitis Northumbriae ad constabuli Nostri ibid. qui pro tempore fuerit, obstruatur. In cujus rei testimonium lias Literas nostras fieri Patentes; teste meipso apud Dunelm. decimo octavo die Septembris, anno regni nostri octavo.’

Heber Tower is now the hall of the Company of Armourers, Curriers, &c. who were incorporated in the 36th year of King Henry the Eighth's reign.

Durham Tower is next in place, of which there is nothing remarkable.

West Gate is a considerable edifice, excellently constructed, and very strong: it is defended by a port cullis and iron grated gates. This building is attributed to Roger Thornton, Esq [*] whose memory in the annals of this place ought to be greatly distinguished for his munificence and liberal spirit. The Company of House Carpenters lately repaired and fitted up the tower for their hall.

Pink Tower is next in succession, and in the next place a Postern opens upon the Firth.

Gunner Tower and Stank Tower next succeed, of which nothing remarkable is observed. The next

West Spital Tower, or Saint Mary's, it is said was built by the master and brethren of St Mary's Hospital.

The building of Nevil Tower is attributed to one of the great Nevils, Earls of Westmoreland: their family mansion stood near it. This Tower was repaired A. D. 1711, for the Masons, Bricklayers, and Plaisterers hall.

In the next place is a Postern, called White Friar Gate: a convenient passage for the Carmelites or White Friars to and from their monastery.

Not far from thence is the White Friar Tower, built on the summit of a vast eminence above the street called the Close: its form is circular: it is flagged on the top and embrazured; from thence you have the most extensive prospect any part of these fortifications commands: you view the whole of the upper town and great part of the lower, a vast tract of country down the river, and a landscape as beautiful and extensive towards the west and north as any in this part of Northumberland. This building is attributed to the House of Carmelites, which stood immediately opposite: its eminence is such, that from the Close Gate you ascend to it by 140 steps. The inner part of the tower contains the Masons hall.

The Close Gate is near the present extremity of the wall, on the banks of Tyne. I am inclined to conceive the ancient fortification of this town did not consist of an entire circumvallation, but that the walls terminated in two points as they approached the river near to Close Gate and Sand Gate.[*]

Having described the walls, I must in the next place consider the interior fortress.

The Castle, all authors agree, was built by Robert Carthouse, son of William the Conquerer, in the year 1080, on his return from his Scotch expedition: he perceived the great consequence of such a fortress on the frontiers, commanding so fine a river, and in a situation excellently calculated for assembling the northern levies on any disturbance on the borders. The tower built by Robert was of great strength, square, and surrounded by two walls: the height of the tower is 82 feet, the square on the outside 62 feet by 54, the walls 13 feet thick, with galleries gained out of them: there was a chapel within the tower.[†] The outward fortifications are now defaced, and their scite crowded with buildings. The tower still remains entire, the corners projecting from the plane of the square, a mode much practiced in the Norman structures. It is situate on a lofty eminence, commanding the whole town: the principal entrance is on the south. What number of gates were in the outward wall we cannot now determine, but from Bourne's account of it, which I shall quote in its proper place: the area inclosed by this wall contained three acres and one rood. The Castle belongs to the county of Northumberland, and makes no part of the liberties of Newcastle, or its Sheriffdom: the government of it, 21st September, 1st of King Henry VII. was granted to William Close, Esq for life as Constable; and in the 9th year of the same reign it was granted to Roger Fenwick, Esq with 20l. per annum salary; since which time I do not find that any Constable has been appointed, but the Sheriffs of Northumberland had custody of the Castle. It now serves for the county prison, and in the great hall the Judges of assize hold the gaol delivery.

Soon after the building of this castle, it is said by Bourne that Robert de Mowbray Earl of Northumberland, when in rebellion against King William Rufus, was besieged therein, and this fortress after suffering much damage was taken: but I confess I do not find sufficient authorities to support this assertion of my author, and think it is much to be doubted. The Scots by treachery A. D. 1135, in the 1st year of the reign of King Stephen, gained possession of the castle and town, which they held to the year 1156, when Malcolm IV. ceded the northern counties to King Henry II.[*]

The castle having suffered much by neglect in that and the succeeding reign, King John restored it, and added a ditch to the fortifications, in doing which he was obliged to destroy several houses: as a compensation to the owners of these tenements he ordered 110s. 6d. rents in escheats to be paid yearly, as is set forth in his charter to the town.[†] This castle was considered of such consequence, that most of the neighbouring Baronies paid considerable sums towards its support, under the articles of Castleward and Cornage: the several sums are mentioned in Bourne's history.[‡] Besides the larger payments several small ones issued from sundry houses and lands in the town.

Bourne says, ‘In the 9th of King Edward III. an inquisition was taken at this town, whereby it was found that at the time of the battle of Bannockburn, which was in the year 1313, when John de Kenont, Knight, was High Sheriff of Northumberland, the Castle and all its edifices about it were in good repair: that after that time Nicholas Scot, Adam de Swinburn, William Riddel, Johannes de Fenwick, Cuthbert de Broughdon, Johannes de Fenwick, Johannes de Woodhorn, Johannes de Lilleburn, Willielmus de Tynedale, Roger Mauduit, and Robertus Darreius, were High Sheriffs of Northumberland, during which time the great tower, and also the lesser ones of the said Castle, the great hall, with the King's chamber adjoining to it, together with divers other chambers below in the Queen's mantle, and the buttery cellar and pantry: the King's chapel within the castle, a certain house beyond the gate which is called the chequer house, with the bridges within and without the gate, with three gates and one postern, were 300l. worse than before. They also say that there are in the custody of Roger Mauduit, late High Sheriff, 420 fother of lead: they say also, that it was thought highly necessary that the Baron Heron of Huddeston, the Baron of Walton, Lord Robert Clifford of the New Place, Chief Lord of the Barony of Gaugie, the Lords of the Barony of — and Devilston, that the Lord of Werk upon Tweed, the Lord of the Barony of Bolbeck alias Bywell, the Baron of Bothal, and lastly the Baron of Delaval, should build each of them a house within the liberties of the castle for the defence of it.’

‘There were two great strong walls which surrounded the castle: the interior wall was of no great distance from the castle itself, as may be still seen in several places. The exterior wall surrounds the verge of the castle borders. From this outer wall were four gates, the great gate and three posterns. The north side of the castle is the main gate, called now the Black Gate; it had two port culicesses, one without the gate, as may be still seen, and another within it, at a little distance from it, the ruins of which were to be seen a few years ago. There still remains a piece of the old wall, which shews its situation to have been where that house is, which was lately purchased by Mr Jasper Harrison. The shop belonging to this house was dug (as I am informed) out of the wall just now mentioned. On the east side of the castle there was a postern, which led down to the street called the Side, which is still to be seen: it was once called (but many years after it was in decay) the Waist of Laurentius Acton. On the south side of the castle is another gate, which leads down the Castle Stairs to the street called the Close: this was the south postern. There is a building upon it, which was the county Goaler's house. On the west side was the postern facing Bailiff Gate; now the dwelling-house of James Lidster.’

‘There is an house in the yard, which they say was the chapel of of the garrison, which is called the chapel house to this day: it stands north-east from the chapel; its common name now is the Three Bulls-heads.’

By an inquisition taken in the reign of King James I. it appears this castle was then much out of repair; and in the 18th of the same reign another having been taken, complaint was made that a great dunghill, heaped up against the wall on the west side of the castle, had done damage to the amount of 120l. it was under the same inquisition complained, that the great square tower was full of chinks and crannies, and that one-third of it was almost taken away; that all the lead and coverings which it had of old, were embezzled and carried off, insomuch, that the prisoners of the county of Northumberland were most miserably lodged, by reason of the showers of rain falling on them. The computation made for repairs was 809l. 15s. In 1644, the dunghill was taken away by Sir John Morley, and it is said was used to make a rampart on the town walls against the Scots: he also repaired the round tower under the Moothall, now called the Half-moon.[*]

‘It has been (continues Bourne) a building of great strength, and no little beauty; the vast thickness of the walls speaks the one, and the ruins of some curious workmanship the other. The grand entrance into the castle was at the gate facing the south, which leads up a pair of stairs (which still shews the magnificence of the builder) to a very stately door of curious masonry. The room this leads into, has its floor broken down close to the castle wall, as indeed all the other floors are, to the top of the castle; so that excepting the floor above the county gaol, there is not one left, though there have been five divisions or stories of the castle, besides this. This floored room, which I was told was lately flagged by the order of William Ellison, Esq when he was Mayor in 1722, seems to me, without any doubt, to have been the common hall of the castle, because on the north side of the same room, there is an entrance by a descent of some steps into a room, where is the largest fire place I saw in the castle, which plainly speaks it to have been the kitchen. At the end of this there are several stairs, which lead into a place under the kitchen, which I think goes down as low as the bottom of the castle: this I take to have been a cellar, as I do also that little dark place on the right hand coming up again, to have been a sort of pantry. The door I mentioned just now on the east of the castle, which leads to the first broken down floor, is because of its grandeur and beauty, an argument that this room has been the most stately one in the whole castle: another reason for its being so is, because of the windows which gave light into it; those of them that face the east are the most beautiful of the whole castle beside. On the south of this room there is an entrance into a sort of a parlour or withdrawing room, which has a fire place in it, and has been a piece of curious workmanship, as is visible to this day; and this place has no communication with any part of the castle but this room. On the north side of this room, is a door leading into an apartment where stands a well of considerable depth; it was 18 yards before we touched the surface of the water; which seems to have been placed there on purpose for the more immediate service of this room. There are some little basons on the top of the well, with pipes leading from them, which conveyed water to different apartments of the castle: this is plain from what may be observed in the county gaol, at the bottom of the castle; the round stone pillar in it having an hollow in the middle, of a foot wide, with a lead spout in the side of it.’

‘In the inquisition made in the 9th of King Edward III. above mentioned, among other things that were complained of for being neglected, one was, Capella Domini Regis infra castrum. This chapel, I have been told, stood on that part of the castle yard where the Moothall is; but upon searching, I found it in the castle itself, according to the account of it just now mentioned. The door of it is at the bottom of the south wall of the castle, adjoining to the stairs which lead into the state chamber. It has been a work of great beauty and ornament, and is still, in the midst of dust and darkness, by far the most beautiful place in the whole building; the inside of it being curiously adorned with arches and pillars. It is easy to observe the different parts of it, the entrance, the body of it, and the chancel: on the left side of the entrance you go into a dark little room, which undoubtedly was the vestry; the full length of it was 15 yards, the breadth six yards and a half; it had three or four windows towards the east, which are now all filled up; nor is there any light but what comes in at a little cranny in the wall. Nicholas de Byker tenet terras suas, ut faciat districtiones ad Ward. novi castri super Tynam faciend. et pro deb. Domini regis inter Tynam et Coquet, &c. and then my authority goes on to say, that the manor of Byker was Sir Ralph Lawson's, Knt. deceased, after of Henry Lawson, Esq his son, and now of his eldest son, who without all question is Bailiff by inheritance of the said castle, and is to levy these castle wards, cornages, &c. and other rents, issues, fines, and amerciaments belonging to the said castle.’

‘In the 17th of King James I. 1619, a grant was made of the scite and demesnes of the castle to Alexander Stevenson, Esq who was succeeded by one Patrick Black, who died and left it in the possession of his wife. After that one James Langton claimed Patrick Black's right, but by virtue of what is not known.’

‘The liberties and privileges of the castle extend northwards to the river of Tweed, and southward to the river of Tees.’

In the year 1737, 10 King George II. the scite and demesnes of the castle were granted to George Liddell, Esq for 50 years, from 2 July, 1736: rent 100 chaldron of coals for Greenwich Hospital.

The next subjects of antiquity to be attended to are the Religious Foundations. The most ancient that I can point out was a Nunnery, cotemporary with the conquest,[*] to which Agas, mother of Margaret Queen of Scotland, and Christian her sister retired, after the death of Malcolm at Alnwick. Near the time of the dissolution, there were ten Nuns of the Benedictine order here, whose revenues amounted to 36l. per annum. Mr Wallis says this house was founded by King Henry I. but gives no authority for the assertion, though I presume it is Bourne's History of Newcastle.[†] The scite of the nunnery is within the limits of the present Newgate-street; a back gate leading to it, and an adjoining close still retain the name of Saint Bartholomew's. Among their possessions, of which we have evidence, was the village of Stella, on the southern banks of Tyne, as appears by a deed noted by Mr Wallis, wherein it is described, ‘Nuper parcello possessionum domus sive monasterii S. Bartholomei infra villam Novi Castri super Tynam dissoluti.’ Some authors alledge a religious house in Gateshead, now called Gateshead House, was a cell to St. Bartholomew's, and paid yearly thereto 2s. St. Mary's Hospital, in Westgate-street, is also said to have been dependant thereon. They surrendered the 3d January, 1540, and the revenue was estimated at 36l. 10s. as set forth by Dugdale, and 37l. 4s. 2d. by Speed. Agnes Lawson the Abbess was allowed a pension of 6l. a year for life. The house became the resort of pedlars and vagabonds, and growing into a public nuisance, it was pulled down, and the ground levelled.

The Franciscans or Grey Friars had a house here, founded by the Carliols (who were wealthy Merchants) in the time of King Henry III. it was situate near Pilgrim-street Gate.[*] Mr Pennant says, ‘part of it is still remaining,’ several additional buildings having been made, it was used as the town-house of the late Sir Walter Blackett. This religious house consisted of a Warden, eight Friars, and two Novices, and surrendered the 9th of January, 30 King Henry VIII. On the dissolution no valuation is recorded, for the Franciscans had nothing in propriety nor in common, but being Mendicants, begged all their subsistence from the charity of others. It is said King Charles I. was confined here, after he had entrusted himself to the hands of his Scotch subjects. The famous Duns Scotus, mentioned in a preceding part of this work, the Doctor Subtilis, was of this house. The conventual seal was impressed with the figure of St. Francis bearing a cross in his hand.

The Preaching or Black Friars, Dominicans, had a monastery here. Mr Grose, in his celebrated work, gives the following account of this house, drawn from Bourne's History of Newcastle and other authorities.[*]

This monastery was founded by Sir Peter Scott,[†] who was the first Mayor of Newcastle A.D. 1251, and Sir Nicholas Scott his son, who was one of the four Bailiffs of the town A. D. 1254 and 1257, and capital Bailiff 1269; but the scite of it was given by three sisters, whose names have long since been ungratefully buried in oblivion.

‘When was the particular time of its building, I have met with no account; but it is not difficult to give a probable guess. The order itself, of the Dominicans or Black Friars, came into England in the year 1221; consequently it must have been founded after that time: and that it must have been founded some years before the year 1280, is plain to a demonstration; for in that year, which was the 8th of King Henry I. the Black Friars had licence from the King, to break a door through this new or town wall into their garden; which proves them a regular settled body at that time; and therefore that their priory was built some years before that licence.’

‘We are told that this monastery was in old time called the Grey Friars, which, in my opinion, is a thing highly improbable; for the Grey Friars or Franciscans came not into England till about the year 1224; and if, as I have proved above, the Black Friars were a settled body some years before 1280, how is it possible, to have been called of old time, the Grey Friars? This is therefore a mistake: and besides, the Dominicans came into England before the Franciscans or Grey Friars, and therefore more probably were sooner in this place.’

‘It has been a very stately building, as appears by the present remains of it. The area or grass plot is about 87 feet in length, and as many in breadth. On the east side of it was the chapel, which is now the hall of the company of Smiths in this town. On the west side of it, is a curious old well, which served the monastery with water, called our Lady's Well. On the south may still be seen, the ruins of a curious front, on which side is the hall of the Cordwainers; in which I saw a pair of winding stairs, which they told me (before they were walled up) led by a vault as far as the nunnery of St. Bartholomew. On the north of it were their gardens, a part of which was the Warden's Close, before the building of that part of the town wall. This appears by the charter granted to the monastery in the reign of Edward I. about the breaking out that narrow gate in the wall between Westgate and Newgate; in which grant it is said, that the wall went through the middle of their garden. The monastery was dependant on the priory of Tynemouth.’

‘In the reign of Edward II. the brethren of this monastery had licence granted them for the building of a draw bridge beyond the new ditch of the castle.’

‘Who were the Priors of this monastery; what eminent men belonged to them; or what things were transacted by them from their beginning till their dissolution; were things undoubtedly preserved among themselves whilst they were a body; but after their surrender, were either destroyed, or have not yet come to light.’

‘One of the Priors of this monastery was one Richard Marshall. I take this gentleman to have been the last Prior of this monastery; for in the 28th of King Henry VIII. a grant of a tenement near the White Cross (signed by Friar Richard Marshall, Doctor and Prior; and Friar David Simpson, and Friar John Sourby) was given to Anthony Godsalve, upon his paying to the said priory or monastery 9s. per annum. This grant is now in the possession of Mr Thomas Marshall of Newcastle, Joiner, who purchased this tenement, and has lately rebuilt it. He pays the same rent to the town of Newcastle, which the tenement paid to the monastery. About two years after the signing of this deed, in January, the 30th of this reign, this monastery surrendered. It consisted of a Prior and 12 Friars.’

‘What became of the brethren of this friary, after their surrender; what they had allowed them annually for a maintenance; or whether they had any thing allowed at all does not appear. Some account indeed I met with afterwards of the Prior himself, but none of the Friars.’ It is this which follows.

‘Richard Marshall, Prior of the Black Friars in Newcastle about the year 1551, went into Scotland and preached at St. Andrew's, that the Pater-noster should be addrest to God and not to the Saints. Some Doctors of the university being disgusted at this assertion, prevailed with one Tofts, a Grey Friar, to undertake to prove that the Pater-noster might be said to the Saints; whose ignorance in doing the same was so manifest, that he became the common jest, and quitted the town.’

‘After the surrender of this monastery, the Black Friars was granted to the town of Newcastle, in consideration of 53l. 7s. 6d. The annual value of it was 2l. 19s. 6d.’

‘The King says in his grant, that he gives to the Mayor and Burgesses of Newcastle, the whole house and scite lately a priory, or house of brethren, called vulgarly the Black Friars, in Newcastle upon Tyne; the chapel-houses, edifices, gardens, &c. the hall, two chambers, a chamber called the Cross Chamber; and two gardens with their appurtenances; and the whole close within the Westgate, and another close near the scite of the said priory, on the north; and a close containing three acres, and a house in the same close, without the walls of the said town; and a house called the Gatehouse situated near the said street. It also appears from the first grant, that the King reserved to himself and successors the bells and lead that was upon the church belonging to this friary, and the other buildings of it; the lead in the gutters, together with the stones and iron of the church, &c.’

‘The Nine Crafts of this town had their meeting-houses or halls in it, and still have except two of them, the Taylors and the Cordwainers, who have bestowed these upon some poor widows, and got themselves others in their places. These halls are of great service to this ancient building, in preserving it from intire ruin. Such is the hall of the Smiths, which was repaired by them in the year 1709: the hall of the Dyers; the hall of the Bakers and Brewers, which was repaired by them in the year 1711: these halls are on the east side of the friary. Such also are those on the west side of it, viz. the hall of the Sadlers, which was repaired by them in the year 1729, and the hall of the Skinners and Glovers, which was repaired by them in the year 1721. Such are those also on the south side of it, viz. the Cordwainers hall, which was turned into apartments for three widows in the year 1729: the hall of the Butchers and the hall of the Tanners were repaired in the year 1717.’

By the means of these halls, there is still some visage of the friary remaining, which had otherwise been intirely in dust. 'Tis a pity that those people, who are permitted by the companies to reside in some of those rooms, are not threatened into more cleanliness;[*] and that the companies themselves are not at the expence of repairing the area. Were these things done, it would be a beautiful piece of antiquity, and the entertainment of the curious, from whence soever they come.

‘Browne Willis, in his History of Abbies, says, Roland Harding was the last Prior of the Newcastle Dominicans; and that he with 12 Monks surrendered their convent 10th January, 1539, 30th Henry VIII. This was the only Dominican monastery in Newcastle.’

The monastery of St. Augustine was founded by William Lord Ross, Baron of Werk:[*] it was situate in the Manor Chair, was a handsome edifice, with cloisters and a noble chapel:[†] the Kings of England in their Scotch expeditions frequently took up their residence there. It surrendered 9th January, 30 King Henry VIII. and was used for some time by government as a magazine for warlike stores: from whence it acquired the name of the Artillery Ground. King James I. gave it to a Scotch attendant, who for the sake of the lead and materials dismantled it. Out of the ruins have arose a workhouse for the poor, a house of correction, a charity-school for the parish of All-saints, and a house for the master. The Surgeons hall and two hospitals stand within the limits of this monastery.

A monastery of Carmelites or White Friars was[‡] founded by King Edward I. in honour of the blessed Virgin. On their surrender, 30 King Henry VIII. they consisted of a Prior, seven Brethren, and two Noviciates, and their revenue was valued at 9l. 11s. 4d. It was situate near the Foot of Westgate, not far distant from White Friar Tower before described.

In the close of this house was a fraternity, styled the Brethren of the Pennance of Jesus Christ, or the Brethren of the Sack; to whom King Henry III. gave the place called Calgarth, at the instance of Robert Bruce.[*]

The Carmelites had another monastery in this town, situate in the Walk Knowle, of which Laurentius de Acton was the founder, according to Leland.[†] Dugdale says it was founded by Roger de Thornton, but that is confuted by Bourne.[‡] It was dedicated to St. Michael, and being on a lofty situation,[§] had the name of St. Michael's Mount. After the dissolution, King Henry VIII. gave it with its rights and revenues to Sir John Gresham, then an Alderman of the city of London, and Richard Billingford.

By Tanner's Notitia it appears, that King David I. of Scotland, who was possessed of Newcastle as Earl of Northumberland, founded here two monasteries and a nunnery: but whether any of the before mentioned own their rise to him, no evidence remains. He died A. D. 1153.

Patents were made out for founding two other religious houses; one 37 King Edward III. in honour of the nativity and resurrection of our Lord, which was repealed; and another, 5 King Henry IV. in honour of St. John Baptist and St. John Evangelist, which latter was also repealed or otherwise proved abortive.[*]

Besides these religious foundations, there were several on a more meritorious plan—hospitals for the benevolent purpose of relieving the miseries of human life. When that dreadful distemper the leprosy raged here, the great and opulent, from true principles of religion and piety, erected those places of consolation and relief for miserable mortals, who were expelled from society on account of this horrible visitation. King Henry I. founded an hospital here for the reception of lepers, called the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen, situated near Barras Bridge, without Pilgrim-street Gate, and therein fixed a Master, Brethren, and Sisters. After that malady abated, or was subdued, it was appropriated for the reception of poor persons, when the town was visited with a pestilence—a dreadful scourge, which the Almighty has now withheld from this land for a considerable time. On such occasions, 14 within the house were allowed each a room, 8s. per month, and coals: 15 without the house had different allowances, according to the state of their wants; some 8s. per month, some 5s. others 2s. 6d. In the reign of King Edward III. Laurentius Acton had the first fruits, amounting annually to 200 marks; one John Bland was then Master, and was a considerable patron to this foundation, having built the consistory, and ornamented the chapel. He died A. D. 1374, and was interred in his own chapel, near the high altar, after having presided over the hospital five years. It was a donative in the patronage of the Corporation, and stood without Pilgrim-street Gate, near the Barras Bridge. Adjoining to it was a chapel dedicated to St. James, supposed to have been a chapel of ease to the parish of St. Andrew's.[*]

The hospital of St. Mary, commonly styled St. Mary the Virgin, was situated in Westgate-street, had several patrons, but it is not certain who was the original founder. There is some confusion in our authorities touching this hospital, as will appear by the notes. Walter de Bolbeck was a benefactor to the first foundation, which Bourne thinks took date in the reign of King Henry I. One Aselack, of Killinghow, was the second founder, in the time of King Richard I. as appears by his charter: ‘Ego Aselack, &c. fundavi hospitale Sanctae Mariae Virginis, &c. & ibi posui duos fratres regulares & unum capellanum ad ferv. &c.’ Eustacius, Parson of Benton, one of the witnesses, was incumbent about 1190. The third foundation was by the Corporation, or as Bourne says, by the inhabitants of Newcastle, for a Master and Chaplain to say divine service for six Bedes folks in the alms-house, &c. its revenue was 33l. 15s. per annum. It was besides instituted as an asylum for the helpless stranger and indigent traveller, a receptacle to the sick and needy, and to give sepulture to such as died there. It had an annual allowance of nine chaldron of coals. King Edward III. gave thereto 100s. as a compensation for the damage it sustained in the Scotch incursions.[†] 8th of January, 1335, Richard de Bury, Bishop 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page missing〉

The hospital of the Holy Trinity was founded by William de Acton, 37 King Edward III. A. D. 1363; according to Randal 1360, and was confirmed by Bishop Thomas Hatfield 2 Oct. 1361: it stood on the Walk Knowl. Some authors assert, that Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham, presented the first Master; but Randal, whose accuracy was singular, says, Will de Wackefeld pater ord. Scae Trin. was appointed[40] Custos by the founder. It surrendered 10th of January, 30th King Henry VIII.[*]

St. Catherine's or Thornton's Hospital, on the south side of Sandhill, called by some authors Maison Dieu, was founded in the reign of King Henry IV. by Roger Thornton the elder. Here was a Chaplain, nine poor men, and four women. The Corporation, 34 King Henry VI. by leave of the founder, had the use of the hall and kitchen, for the wedding entertainments of young people, there to receive the offerings and gifts of their friends.[†]

Brigham's and Ward's Almshouses may also claim a place here: but to introduce the particular donations and constitutions of these, would in no wise entertain the reader, and would increase this work too much. Brigham's Almshouse stood near the monastery of Franciscans, and Ward's in the Manor Chair.

In Randal's Manuscripts, I find the name of St. Laurence's, without any particulars relative to it. Bourne says, as to St. Laurence's, ‘it is said to have been built by one of the Earls of Northumberland. It was dependent upon the priory of St. John of Jerusalem, and was granted to the town in the 3d year of Edward VI.’ In 1558, its revenues amounted to 11l. 8s. 8d.

The ancient palaces were,

Pampedon Hall, a royal mansion, in the time of the Saxon heptarchy.

Lumley Place, in the Side, an ancient appendage to the castle; the temporary residence and palace of the Kings of England, on their northern expeditions: it became afterwards the house of the Lords Lumley, of Lumley Castle, from whom it had its more modern name.

The Earl's Place, belonging to the Earls of Northumberland, in Newgate-street: it is sometimes called the Scotch Inn, being the temporary residence of the Kings and Nobles of Scotland, when in Newcastle on a truce.

Northumberland House, in the Close; the residence of the Earls of Northumberland.

Westmoreland Place, in Westgate-street; the palace of the Nevils, Earls of Westmoreland.

To these we may add the Pilgrims House, in Pilgrim-street; the place of resort, stay, and refreshment of devotees, in their way to the holy shrine at Jesmont.

This large and populous town consists of four parishes; St. Nicholas, All-saints, St. Andrew's, and St. John's.

St. Nicholas's is a vicarage, having three dependent chapels, viz. Gosforth, St. Thomas's, and Cramlington. The Bishop of Carlisle is impropriator and patron: it was given to the Church and Canons of St. Mary's, Carlisle, by King Henry I. in or about the year 1120. Richarnus de Aurea Valle was Parson of this and Newburn church, and also a third not named in that reign.[*]

The several churches of All-saints, St. Andrew's, and St. John's, are dependent upon this vicarage, though they are distinct parishes; and the Vicar receives dues from them all.

The church of St. Nicholas,[*] by most authors, is said to have its foundation in the year 1091, though some attribute it to David I. King of Scotland. In the grant to St. Mary's in Carlisle, the stipend of the Minister is not stipulated, the expression being ‘a suitable maintenance to be given to the Minister.’ This was afterwards fixed in the reign of King Stephen, 24th January, 1194, by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, with the approbation of the Prior and Convent of Carlisle, when all the fruits, fees, annual profits, oblations, and obventions were assigned thereto (the great tithes excepted).[†] The church is a stately building, placed on a fine elevated situation, near the centre of the town; 240 feet in length, 75 feet in breadth, and of a proportionable height. The tower or steeple is 194 feet in height, highly ornamented; four images of no mean sculpture decorate the lower part of the tower: the top of the tower is very elegant, it is ornamented with fine pinnacles of tabernacle-work, from the corner spring intersecting bows or arches, supporting in the middle a light and open lanthorn, graced with pinnacles of extraordinary beauty: the whole has the most uncommon and pleasing appearance, not unlike a magnificent imperial crown. It is justly allowed by all travellers to be the finest piece of masonry of the kind in Europe. This tower, most authors agree, was built in the time of King Henry VI. by one Robert Rhodes. On the bottom of the bellfry is this inscription: Orate pro anima Roberti Rhodes;[*] from thence it is conjectured by several that this was the name of the founder.[†] The church is well illuminated; the east or altar window was anciently adorned with paintings on the glass, representing the twelve Apostles, and the seven [‡] acts of charitable munificence of Roger Thornton, who built the window; in which was the following inscription: Orate pro anima Rogeri de Thornton, et pro animabus filiorum & filiarum.[§]

The church has eight musical bells, and a good double organ. On the north side of the organ is St. George's Porch: According to Bourne, it was ornamented with carvings and painted windows: the portraiture of St. Lawrence remains in the east window. It is supposed to be an ancient chantry, founded by one of the English Monarchs.

There were nine chantries to this church, dedicated (1) to St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, two to St. Catharine, (4) St. Peter and St. Paul, (5) St. Thomas, (6) the Virgin Mary, (7) St. Margaret, (8) St. Cuthbert, (9) St. Lyra.‖

Above the vestry is a library, to which Dr. Tomlinson, a late Vicar, at his death, made a great addition, by a donation of his valuable books: but of what utility (comparatively speaking) was this library, until the late munificent Sir Walter Blackett (over whose name every worthy burgess will for one age at least drop a tear, whilst his experienced benevolence gives the estimate of his loss; and on whose immortal character future ages will contemplate with veneration and Joy) the great modern patron of Newcastle, gave an annual stipend of 25l. for ever for a Librarian.

Besides the benefice, the Vicar receives an annual gift of 90l. from the Corporation, by way of augmentation. The first Curate's stipend is 4l. from the Vicar, 6l. 16s. 8d. from the Crown, and 40l. gift from the Corporation. The Lecturer has 120l. a year from the Corporation.

At the north door of the church there is a large flag for the first step, sculptured in waves, as in commemoration of the dedicatory Saint's peculiar protection to seafaring men.

The Vicarage-house stands in Westgate-street.

Many very elegant monuments are placed within the ailes, but their description cannot be set out in this work.

The chapel of St. Thomas stands at the end of the Bridge: the founder not known, or the time of its being erected.

There were two chantries founded in it, dedicated to St. Ann and St. Mary the Virgin.[*] It was made a Chapel of Ease to St. Nicholas 10th September, A. D. 1732, and was repaired by the Corporation, who gave a handsome stipend to a morning and afternoon Lecturer.

All-saints church is at the foot of Pilgrim-street: it was built before the year 1286. This is said to be one of the largest cures in the kingdom.[†] Seven chantries were founded in this church, and dedicated (1) to St. Thomas, (2) St. Mary the Virgin, (3) St John the Evangelist, (4) St. Peter, (5) St. John Baptist, (6) St. Catharine, (7) St. Lyra.[‡]

The Minister of this church is paid 4l. per annum by the Vicar, and 5l. per annum by the Crown; the remaining income arises from fees. There are two Lecturers appointed by the Corporation, with each a salary of 100l. per annum.

This church hath a dependent chapel, St. Ann's, Sandgate: after the reformation it was neglected and fell to decay, but was repaired in 1682. It hath lately been rebuilt by the Corporation on a beautiful plan: they appoint two Lecturers thereto, the one with a salary of 50l. the other 40l. per annum.

Another chapel anciently stood in these suburbs, dedicated to St. Lawrence, said to be founded by one of the Earls of Northumberland: it was dependent upon the priory of St. John of Jerusalem. King Edward VI. granted it to the Corporation, in consideration of 144l. 13s. 4d. The bottle-houses now fill the ground where this chapel stood.

St. Andrew's church stands near Newgate. From the style of the architecture, and it being erected on the scite of the old Monk Chesters, it claims a title to greater antiquity than the other churches. It is supposed to have been built by King David of Scotland.

Three chantries were founded in this church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the Holy Trinity, and St. Thomas.[*]

The Minister's stipend from the Vicar is 3l. from the Crown 5l. 2s. 6d. and from the Corporation as Lecturer 100l. per annum.

St. John's church, in Westgate, built before the year 1287. Robert Percival, a Pinmaker, gave it many ornaments, and a house of 20l. yearly value. It has six musical bells and a good organ.
[*]

Three chantries were founded in this church, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, St. Mary the Virgin, and the Holy Trinity.[†]

The income of the Minister consists of 3l. from the Vicar, 5l. from the Crown, and from the Corporation as Lecturer 90l. per annum.

There are also many meeting-houses of Dissenters here.

Besides the grammar school before mentioned, there are four parochial charity schools.

The grammar school was founded by Thomas Horsley, Mayor of Newcastle, A. D. 1525: he endowed it with lands of a considerable yearly value. Queen Elizabeth confirmed this foundation, or rather refounded it by charter. The great tithes of the parish of Bolham appertain to it, and the Mastership of St. Mary's Hospital is generally annexed. The Master of the school hath a convenient dwelling-house belonging to it.

The charity school of the parish of St. Nicholas was opened in 1709, for the teaching and cloathing of 40 boys and 20 girls, of this parish and the chapelry of St John's. The boys are placed out to business, and have on such their going out a gift of certain religious books and 40s. in money. The girls are placed out to service, and have a like gift of books and 20s. in money. The Schoolmaster's salary is 25l. and 20s. for coals yearly. The Mistress has 10l. and 10s. for coals.

This school was originally founded by Mrs Eleanor Allan, a widow of Newcastle, and endowed with lands of 60l. a year value. Mrs Crishold, the widow of the Rev. Mr Crishold of Wooler, added a donation of 500l. By a parochial subscription the children are cloathed on the 1st day of May yearly.

The charity school belonging to the parish of All-saints is supported by subscription, which was begun A. D. 1709. It receives 41 boys and 17 girls, and is conducted as the school of St. Nicholas.

The charity school of the parish of St. Andrew was founded by Sir William Blackett, Baronet, for 30 boys, and was opened A. D. 1707: the Schoolmaster's salary 20l. a year.

The charity school of the parish of St. John was founded in the year 1705, by John Ord, Esq for 44 boys. He endowed it with lands near Pilgrim-street Gate. Mrs Margaret Allgood gave thereto 100l. The boys are cloathed annually on Midsummer-day, by subscription. The Schoolmaster's salary is 24l. a year, and 40s. for teaching them to sing; with an additional allowance of 16s. a year for pens, ink, and paper.

Besides the principal edifices before mentioned, there are several public buildings here.

The Town House and Exchange, on the Sandhill, originally founded by Roger de Thornton. In the year 1658, this public edifice was rebuilt by the Corporation on the present plan;
[*]
the front towards the river being ornamented with two series of columns. The expence amounted to 11,200l. 10,000l. of which was advanced by the Corporation, and 1200l. a donation from Alderman Weimouth, compleated the work. The area in front was ornamented with an equestrian statue, in copper, of King James II. the horse in a vaulting attitude, supported by a pedestal of white marble. This statue was by an outrageous mob pulled down A.D. 1688, and appropriated to furnish bells for the church of All-hallows or All-saints. The statue was said to be of excellent workmanship, and cost 1700l. An elegant plate was published of it in 1742.

The Trinity House at the Head of the Broad Chair: In it are apartments for 14 persons, to whom 8s. per month with coals and cloathing are given: it also contains a spacious hall and a neat chapel. Dalton's Place stood upon this ground. It is not known when or by whom the monastery of the Trinity was founded. The original institution of the order of the Holy Trinity was in 1198, in the time of Pope Innocent III. and was for the redemption of captives from slavery. The Trinity House we are now speaking of appertains to the fraternity of Mariners, who have received three several royal charters; one in the 3d year of King James I. the second by King Charles II. 1664, and the third by King James II. 1687.[*]

The Mansion House, in the Close; the temporary place of residence of the Mayor. It is an elegant modern building, with a spacious area on the banks of Tyne.

The Freemen's Hospital, in the Manors, founded by the Corporation in 1681, for a Master and 39 poor Freemen, or their widows. The Master's annual allowance 6l. each of the Brethren 4l. The building is handsome, three stories in height, ornamented with a piazza 60 yards in length: an open area with a fountain in front.

Davison's Hospital, for six widows of Clergymen or Merchants. The building was erected at the expence of the Corporation, and the endowment was made by Mrs Ann Davison, the relict of a Merchant of this town. The allowance to each is 40s. quarterly.

The Barber Surgeons Hall.

The Maidens Hospital, built by the Corporation in 1753, and endowed by a donation of 1200l. from Thomas Davison, Esq of Ferry-hill, in the county of Durham, and his sisters; and the like sum of 1200l. from the munificent Sir Walter Blackett—for the reception of six maiden women and six poor men.

The Keelmen's Hospital, a square building with cloisters, near Sandgate, built in 1701, by a contribution of 1d. each tide from every Keelman plying upon the Tyne, within the liberties of Newcastle. It contains upwards of 50 chambers, but is said to be neglected, and without endowment. It is wonderful this laborious and useful race of men, whose toils help to contribute such immense wealth to Newcastle, should not have claimed the attention of the Corporation, from whose revenue more donations issue in charitable and religious appropriations, than any other Corporation in the North of England can boast.

The Infirmary stands in an airy elevated situation behind Westgate, and near the public walk called the Forth: It was founded by subscription, for the relief of the sick and lame of Newcastle and the counties of Durham and Northumberland. To this excellent foundation Sir Walter Blackett gave 1000l. out of the interest money arising from which donation, he appointed 10l. a year should be given to a Clergyman to do duty there. So happy a relief has this charitable institution proved, that from the time of its commencement to April 1778, 17,331 patients have been discharged cured.

To these may be added the Hospital for Lunatics, and the Hospital for Married Women lying-in: as also the fund raised for the support of those who lie-in at their own houses.

An elegant Hall has lately been erected in High Friar Chair, by the society of Free and Accepted Masons of the Lodge of St. John: it is richly ornamented, and has an excellent organ for their solemn rites. It was dedicated in the year 1777; to attend which ceremony, there was the most respectable and numerous convention of that order that ever appeared in the northern parts of this kingdom. The music was performed by an excellent band, the vocal parts of which were done by the best voices from the quire of Durham cathedral. A pathetic exhortation was delivered by Mr Huntley, and an elegant oration, displaying the antiquity, progress, and excellence of the order, by the Rev. Dr Scott of Simonburn. The festival was held in the new assembly room, when at three tables near 400 of the brethren dined together; at which time that regularity, order and harmony were maintained, for which this society, above all others in the world, is remarkable: where men of all ranks, political opinions, and religious persuasions meet, without envy or contention; and preserve a unanimity and brotherly love, in despite of the frailties and fickleness of the human heart.

The history of this place is very dark, antecedent to the time of Robert Carthouse, and the building of the castle, from whence it is presumed the name of Newcastle was derived. The advantages of a fine navigable river, with a situation defended by so strong a fortress, would soon induce Merchants and others to fix there; yet we find no record of any royal charter, liberty, or franchise granted to the settlers, till the reign of King Henry II. when they obtained a royal charter, which is said to have comprehended great privileges;[*] but of what nature these were, our author is silent. King John, in the 3d year of his reign, confirmed the above charter, on payment of 100 marks and two palfreys.[†] In the 14th year of his reign he greatly enlarged those liberties and powers, and expressly ‘in consideration of the loyalty and faithful services of his burgesses there,’ he granted them several exclusive privileges; among which are, an exemption from the power of the Sheriff of the county at large, and that they should be amenable to the Courts only within their own jurisdiction, except in matters relative to the rights of the Crown. The government of the borough was then under four Bailiffs only.

King Henry III. by charter, appointed a Mayor to preside in the government of this borough, together with four Bailiffs. From this Prince the Burgesses derived two most excellent bounties, viz. the Castle Demesnes, containing 850 acres, for free pasturage, with liberty of winning coal and stone; as also a plot of ground called the Forth, containing about 11 acres. Here the Infirmary stands: a portion of the ground is inclosed, and converted into a public walk. One thing very singular in this royal charter, is the prohibition against Jews residing within the borough.

This was one of the boroughs that received the first summons to send Representatives to sit in a House of Commons, in the 10th year of the reign of King Edward I. A. D. 1282.[*]

Pampedon was by royal grant annexed to Newcastle in this reign.

Upon an inquisition taken, 4 King Edward I. touching the ancient customs which prevailed within the borough, it was returned, that by the custom established within the borough, the real estates of freemen within the borough had always been considered in the nature of chattels, and as such were disposed by will: which special custom was accordingly confirmed.

King Edward III. confirmed all its franchises and privileges, and added thereto an exemption from the jurisdiction of the Constablery, Marshalsea, and Admiralty of England, within the port and limits of the borough. He gave the Town Moor to the Burgesses in perpetuity; he also gave licence to the Burgesses to purchase lands; he confirmed many by-laws made by them for well-governing the borough; directed the mode of electing Mayors, Magistrates, and Officers; he settled the measure to be used in the sale of coals, and made the Burgesses toll-free for their merchandize throughout his dominions.

King Richard II. in the first year of his reign, A. D. 1378, confirmed the charters before granted to the Burgesses; he afterwards granted them ground for roads and a bridge.[*] In 1390, he gave licence for a sword of state to be borne before the Mayor.

It was not till the reign of King Henry IV. that Newcastle received the most distinguishing marks of royal favour: on the accession of this Prince, the borough received a confirmation of all ancient liberties and immunities; besides which he also granted, that this borough should for ever thereafter be independent of the county of Northumberland; that it should have a Sheriff, as being a county of itself, a district not above 10 miles in circuit; which Sheriff should supply the duty of the Bailiffs, whose office was from thenceforth revoked and annulled; that the Sheriff should hold his county within the liberties of the borough, on Wednesday from month to month, that he should have the return of writs, and account unto his Majesty's Exchequer;[†] that six Aldermen should be elected out of the Burgesses, as associates in the civil Magistracy with the Mayor, with power to act as Justices of the Peace within the precincts of the borough; that the Burgesses should hold the Conservatorship of the river Tyne, from Sparrow Hawk to Hedwin Streams, with the royalties thereof, a space of 14 miles; within which limits no ship should load or unload any sort of goods but at the quays of Newcastle. The present quays are esteemed equal to any in England, being upwards 700 yards in length. King Edward II. granted the Conservatorship of the river Tyne to John Earl of Hampstead; but the same was soon revoked, on its being represented an infringement on the rights of Newcastle.

King Edward VI. on the dissolution of the Bishopric of Durham by act of parliament, A. D. 1552, granted to Newcastle the town and liberties of Gateshead: he also proposed to have erected a Bishopric at Newcastle, out of part of the revenues of the dissolved See;[*] but these purposes were defeated by the death of the King; and on the accession of Queen Mary, 1554, the Bishopric of Durham was restored.[†]

Queen Elizabeth confirmed to the Burgesses all the liberties and immunities granted by her predecessors, and added thereto many privileges by her charter dated, as Mr Wallis says, on the 22d March, in the 42d year of her reign; but as it appears by a note to Bourne's History, in the 31st year of that reign. It was then declared to be a free town, with power to the corporate body to purchase lands to them and their successors in fee and perpetuity, and to grant and demise the same; and that they should have a common seal: that they should exercise an Admiralty Jurisdiction within their own liberties, exclusive of any authority of the Lord High Admiral.

The Corporation is now governed by a Mayor, Sheriff, and 12 Aldermen; the Borough sends two Members to Parliament, elected by the Free Burgesses, who are about 2400 in number.

The Mayor holds a Court of Record, wherein all actions of debt upon the case, trespass, &c. are tried, which arise within, the jurisdiction:[*] no Attornies are allowed to practice but those who are Free Burgesses, and duly sworn there at their admission. Six Serjeants at Mace appertain to this Court.

It is superior to the Sheriff's Court, from whence causes are removeable.

The Sheriff holds a court of his county monthly.

A Court of Conscience is also established here, by virtue of an act of parliament—an excellent relief in so populous a place, where the difficulty of proving sale and delivery of small articles, by witnesses, would often deprive the honest trader and mechanic of his just dues. It is an equitable enlargement of the privilege of inferior courts, worthy the attention of the Legislature, and would be greatly beneficial to the community, if it was admitted at the Sheriffs Courts and in Courts Baron, touching debts of an inferior value.

The Court of Common Council is a court held by force of the charters, by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Commoners, wherein regulations and by-laws are made, for the protection of trade and the government of the incorporate body.

In the Wardmote Court, Officers, &c. of each ward are chosen.

The Mayor holds a Court of Pyepowder at the times of fairs: On the 1st of August, a fair granted by King John, and on St. Luke's day, a fair granted by King Henry VII.[*]

The Mayor holds three Guilds of Trade annually, at which are transacted all business between masters and apprentices; the inrolling of apprentices, and giving those who have served their time, or otherwise are by patrimony intitled, their freedom.[†]

Two ancient punishments, inflicted on the disturbers of the peace here, are worthy notice.

A common Drunkard was led through the streets as a spectacle of contempt, covered with a large barrel, called a Newcastle cloak▪ one end being out, and the other having a hole made through it, sufficient for the offender to pass his head through; by which means the vessel was rested on his shoulders.

The Scold wore an iron engine, called the branks, in the form of a crown; it covered the head, but left the face exposed; and having a tongue of iron which went into the mouth, constrained silence from the most violent brawler.

The trade of this place is very great: to enter upon an exact detail, would exceed the limits of my work: the exports chiefly consist of coals, wrought iron, lead, glass, salt, bacon, corn, salmon, butter, tallow, and grindstones: its situation is such, as necessarily renders it the place of supply for an extensive country, in articles of imported merchandize. In the summary I have given of the trade of the county in the succeeding pages, the importance of this place will appear. In Mr Pennant's work it is stated, that in the year 1771, the shipping mentioned in the following table were entered here with imports.

810 ships,

carrying 77,880 tons,

from foreign parts.

140 ships,

carrying 18,650 tons,

coasting trade.

Total

950

96,530 tons.

Here are 16 glass-houses, three sugar-houses, several soap-boileries, a considerable manufactory of steel and iron, also a manufactory of broad and narrow woollen cloaths carried on with great success. Seldom less than 30,000 firkins of butter, and 40,000 hundreds of tallow, are annually exported from hence.

The chief article of export is coal:[*] ships of great burthen take in their lading at Shields, the coals being carried thither in large unwieldy lighters, called keels, limited by government to the burthen of 20 chaldrons, being nearly circular in form, and very flat bottomed; sometimes navigated by a square sail, at other times managed with the advantage of the tide, by one oar plied at the side and another at the stern, which serves as a sculler and rudder. Near 500 of these vessels find constant employ on this river. No vessels exceeding 400 tons come up to the Quay.

The collieries which supply this exportation, about 24 in number, lie at considerable distances from the river. From the mines, the coals are sent to the places of lading in large unwieldy carriages or waggons, of the form of a common mill-hopper, carried on four wheels of iron, the fellies or rims of which are hollow, so as to run upon strings of wood adapted thereto, with which the roads are laid. By this means, these carriages on an easy descent run without horses, and sometimes with that rapidity, that a piece of wood, called a tiller, is obliged to be applied to one wheel, and pressed thereon by the weight of the attendant who sits on it, to retard the motion: by the friction of which frequently the tiller and sometimes the carriage is set on fire.

In the course of the year 1775, 697, 608 chaldrons of coals were imported in the port of London from Newcastle, and Sunderland on the the river Wear, in the county of Durham; which is 37,237 chaldrons more than the year 1773, and 77,237 chaldrons more than in the year 1774. In the year 1776, 600,000 chaldrons were imported at London.[*]

In 1775, 4773 ships were cleared at the Custom-house of Newcastle; of which 4343 were coastways, and 430 for foreign parts; being upon the whole 270 less than in the year 1774.[†] The customs for coal exported on an average amount to 40,000l. or thereabouts annually, exclusive of 1s. a chaldron paid to the Duke of Richmond for coals sent coastways, which brings in a yearly income of 15,000l. or more.

The revenue of the Corporation, which they possess in their own right, is said to exceed 8000l. a year. The allowance to the Mayor during his year is very ample,[*] a mansion-house furnished and servants, a state coach, with the expences of entertaining the Judges of Assize on the circuit. The Sheriff has also an allowance for his public entertainments. The receipts of the Corporation in the year 1774, were 20,360l. 9s. 8d. and their disbursements 19,445l.[†] The inhabitants of Newcastle and Gateshead are computed to exceed 30,000.

We find here a remarkable provincial dialect and a guttural pronunciation, in which words containing the letter R are articulated with difficulty. This seems to be derived from the Danes. In a degree, the same guttural pronunciation takes place through all Northumberland.

Newcastle was the seat of many remarkable occurrences and events. On the incursion made by David I. King of Scotland, A. D. 1135. in the reign of King Stephen, he took Newcastle, and obliged the inhabitants to swear allegiance to the Empress Maude as their Queen. David having made this place his head quarters, remained there till a truce was entered into with King Stephen, who lay with his army at Durham.

On the restitution of Newcastle to the Crown of England, King Henry II. confirmed to the burgesses and inhabitants their estates, and granted them an exemption from tolls and duties.

King John and William the Lion King of Scotland, about the year 1209, met at Newcastle, and held a conference. The Scotch King lay ill here for a considerable time.

In 1235 or 1236, the King of England and Alexander King of Scotland had a conference at Newcastle, on the demand made by the Scotch King for restitution of Northumberland, Westmoreland, and Cumberland. The Queen of Scotland also was present.—Chron. Mailross.

In the year 1244, King Henry III. assembled a great army and marched to Newcastle, whilst the King of Scotland marched to Ponteland. There were 5000 horse among the English troops finely armed. In the Scotch army were 1000 horse with armour of iron or network, to which were added 100,000 foot; but no engagement ensued, as Alexander, who before had denied King Henry's supremacy, now submitted to acknowledge Henry as his liege Lord, and agreed to bind himself not to enter into any league with any of the enemies of the King of England.

In the year 1251, Newcastle had its first Mayor, Petrus Scott, Knt.

In 1276, on the eve of St. Nicholas, great earthquakes were felt here, accompanied with dreadful lightnings and thunders, the appearance of a fiery dragon in the heavens, and a blazing star.

In the year 1292, after the Regency of Scotland was dissolved, Baliol swore fealty to King Edward I. in the castle of Norham, in the presence of many of the Nobility of both nations. The next day the royal commission was issued, directing John St. John to place Baliol in the royal chair at Scone, according to the ancient mode of inauguration of the Kings of Scotland: in which duty St. John represented Duncan Earl of Fife, then a minor, whose hereditary office it was gained by his ancestors for their distinguished services. This ceremony was soon after performed on St. Andrew's day; after which Baliol passing into England, did homage to King Edward on Christmas day at Newcastle, in the hall of the castle.

In the year 1296, an open rupture taking place between the two kingdoms, the Scots professing to throw off the English yoke, King Edward appointed the 1st day of March for his rendezvous at Newcastle, and was there on that day, accompanied by his Nobles and an army of 30,000 foot and 4000 heavy armed horsemen, besides the small army belonging to the Bishop of Durham, consisting of 1000 foot and 500 horse.

In the year 1298, the English army was ordered to muster at Newcastle, to proceed against the Scotch, when there assembled 2000 heavy armed horsemen, 1200 light horse, and above 100,000 foot.

In the beginning of May 1312, King Edward II. being at Newcastle with his favourite Gaveston; Lancaster, the Lords H. Percy and Robert Clifford, in association with many other Nobles, accompanied by numerous attendants, came by surprize upon them, intending to take the devoted Minion even from the embraces of the Sovereign; but they made their escape to Tynemouth, and from thence by sea to Scarbrough, where Gaveston being left by the King as in a place of the utmost security, he was besieged by Lord Pembroke and others, and obliged to surrender upon stipulated terms: but Lancaster, Hereford, and Arundel, the heads of the junto, not approving of the submission Lord Pembroke had accepted, they seized Gaveston, and put him to death as a traitor.[*]

The whole militia of England, by advice of a parliament held at Lincoln, were ordered to rendezvous at Newcastle, 8 King Edward II. 1315, in order to proceed on a Scotch expedition: every village in the kingdom sent one stout man with armour and travelling money, as also wages at 4d. per day, during the service.

Bourne, in a note to the year 1317, says, ‘there was a grievous famine and mortality, insomuch that the quick could hardly bury the dead; and a great corruption of cattle and grass. Some eat the flesh of their own children; and thieves in prison devoured those that were newly brought in, and greedily eat them half alive.’

In the year 1319, King Edward having sustained the most disgraceful defeats and disappointments in Scotland, a congress of Commissioners was agreed to be held at Newcastle on the 6th of December, when a truce for two years was concluded.[*]

A congress was held here at Candlemas 1320, in order to establish the terms of reconciliation between the nations. Besides the conservators of the truce for England and Scotland, there were present, as aids and mediators, two Envoys from Philip King of France, and two Nuncios from the Holy See: but each party insisting on rigorous articles, the congress broke up without effecting any thing.

In October 1322, King Edward II. was at Newcastle, where he rendezvoused a great army, and therewith marched from thence to relieve Norham Castle, that was then besieged by the forces of King Robert Bruce: but the country being naked, and the Scotch having driven their cattle and flocks into the mountains and strongholds, King Edward in his progress into Scotland lost many men by famine.[†]

A peace was concluded upon here between England and Scotland in the year 1323, by the Commissioners of King Edward II. and King David Bruce for 13 years. Among the English Commissioners were Adomar Earl of Pembroke, and Hugh de Spencer, Lord High Chamberlain. Among those from Scotland, the Bishop of St. Andrew's, and the Earl of Murray.

In 1327, Nov. 20th, the Commissioners of both nations met at Newcastle, and concluding a truce, such preliminaries for a settled peace were agreed upon, as were deemed worthy a parliamentary consideration; and accordingly a parliament was summoned to assemble at York at Candlemas following, in which was given the memorable recognition of the right of Robert Bruce and his heirs to the Crown of Scotland, and the renunciation of all claim and right to the dominion or sovereignty of the kingdom by King Edward III. and his successors Kings of England, and that the said kingdom should be held for ever divided and distinct from the kingdom of England, and in all respects indepent of it; and to that end, all writings and evidences to the contrary should be deemed null and void: and on the part of King Robert Bruce, 20,000l. was stipulated to be paid by Scotland, in three yearly payments, to King Edward's officers at Tweedmouth.

In 1328, King Edward III. remitted to the Burgesses of Newcastle all debts and arrears due to him or his progenitors.[*]

King Edward III. having placed Edward Baliol on the throne of Scotland, kept his Whitsuntide, A. D. 1334, at Newcastle, with great splendour and magnificence. In the month of June, in quality of Sovereign Lord of Scotland, he received there, in a public and solemn manner, the fealty and homage of the Scotch King: at the same time Baliol ceded to him large Scotch territories, in satisfaction of the expences sustained in restoring the Crown to him, as its hereditary claimant. By the following passage in Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 469, it appears that greater cessions were made by Baliol: ‘And this Edwarde Baillol condescendid with Eduarde King of England, after that he had done the accustomid services, that if he died without heyres, the realme of Scotlande should remayne to King Edwarde of England and his heyres for ever. And this pact was made at Newcastle upon Tyne.’

Through the interposition of the King of France, Edward consented to a truce with David Bruce's party, who had opposed Edward Baliol; on the expiration of which, about Midsummer 1335, both Kings held their rendezvous at Newcastle with a powerful army, preparatory to their entry into Scotland.

In the year 1336, King Edward met the Scotch Delegates at Newcastle, when he acceded to proposals made by the Pope's Nuncio, for a further time of truce.

In 1341, it was granted, that no goods be sold until a plank be laid to the ship, on forfeiture of the goods.

In 1342, David King of Scots having committed horrid ravages on his march through Northumberland, came before Newcastle with a powerful army, amounting in numbers, as some authors insist, to 60,000 foot and 3000 horse. John Lord Nevil, who commanded in the castle, made a sally with 200 chosen lancemen, who entering the Scotch camp, surprized the Earl of Murray, one of the chief in command, in bed, and dragged him forth naked, returning to the castle with their prisoner and much booty, not having lost one man. The Scotch enraged at the disgrace, began a fierce but irregular attack, and were repulsed with great slaughter. The bravery of the garrison induced David to raise the siege and march towards Durham, which city he took by storm, and with the most savage barbarity put the inhabitants to the sword, without distinction of age, sex, or condition.[*]

In 1346, Newcastle furnished 17 ships and 314 mariners for the siege of Calais: a force superior to that provided by any northern port in England but Yarmouth; which shews the power and consequence of this place in so early an aera. In King Edward the Second's time there was an order of the King and Council for a staple here.[†]

In 1353, Commissioners met at Newcastle for the deliverance of David King of Scotland on Ransom. The Delegates for England were the Bishop of Durham, William de Bohun Earl of Northampton and Constable of England, Gilbert de Umfreyvill, Earl of Angus, the Lords de Percy and de Nevill, William Baron of Greystock, and Henry le Scroop. For Scotland, the Bishop of St. Andrew's and Brechin, Patric of Dunbar Earl of the March of Scotland, the Abbot of Dumfermelin, and Walter de Moffet Archdeacon of Leonesse.[‡]

In 1353, King Edward III. in his rout to Scotland kept his Christmas at Newcastle.

In 1363, there happened a frost which continued from the middle of September to the month of April.

In 1390, licence was granted to the Mayor and his successors to have a sword borne before them.

Froisard speaks of a remarkable rencounter near Newcastle, in the 11th year of the reign of King Richard II.
The Scots having invaded England, and being come into the Bishoprick of Durham, the Earl of Northumberland sent his two sons, viz. Sir Henry and Sir Ralph, to Newcastle, to which place the county were appointed to come: whereupon ensued several light skirmishes betwixt the English and them, and many proper feats of arms done. Amongst others there fought hand to hand the Earl Douglas and Sir Henry Percy; and by force of arms the Earl won Sir Henry's penon. Whereupon Sir Henry and all the English were sore displeased; the Earl saying to him, Sir, I shall bear this token of your prowess into Scotland, and shall set it on high on my castle of Alquest, that it may be seen afar off: which so provoked the Percys, that after divers bold adventures against the Scotch forces, at length they obtained the victory, and slew the Earl James Douglas; but Sir Ralph Percy was therein wounded and taken prisoner by a Scotch Knight.[*] And after this, in another encounter, this Sir Henry Percy, fighting valiantly with the Lord Mountcumber, a stout Knight of Scotland, was by him taken prisoner.

In 1415, the head of Sir Thomas Grey of Werk was placed on one of the gates of Newcastle; he was a conspirator against the life of the King, with the Earl of Cambridge and Lord Scroop.

In the year 1451, Plenipotentiaries from King Henry VI. and King James II. of Scotland, met at Newcastle and concluded a truce for three years. They put their seals to the instrument in the church of St. Nicholas. The time of truce was enlarged A. D. 1459, by Commissioners who met at Newcastle for that purpose: and in the reign of King Edward IV. 1465, the time was again enlarged, and through a friendly intercourse which took place between the English King and the Scotch Regency, a peace was soon afterwards established.

1st May, 1460, James Butler Earl of Wilts and Ormond, taken prisoner by Richard Salkeld, Esq after Towton battle, a firm Lancastrian, was beheaded at Newcastle.[†]

In the year 1544, Edw. Seymore Earl of Hertford, sent by King Henry VIII. to execute his vengeance on the Scotch, embarked 10,000 men from this port in 200 ships, and sailed into the Firth. In this expedition the city of Edinburgh, with Leith and Dunbar, and many other considerable places, were pillaged and burnt.

The army under the command of the Duke of Somerset, mustered at Newcastle in the year 1547, in order to their advancing against Scotland.

By an act of parliament passed in the 7th year of King Edward VI. 1553, it was enacted, that in Newcastle there should be no greater number than four taverns or wine sellers to sell or utter wine by retail.

In Strype's Annals, vol. 4. p. 306, No. CCXXIII, is the following article.

‘Matthew Archbishop of York and the rest of the Councel in the north to Lord Treasurer Burleigh.’

‘The Justices of Assizes have adjourned the assizes and jayl delivery for the counties of Duresme and Northumberland, in regard of the great infection of the plague in those counties, especially in and about Duresme and Newcastle. For which respect likewise we have adjourned all causes depending before this Councel, between such parties as are inhabiting within those counties, until the sitting after Michaelmas, before which time we hope the sickness will stay. And so beseeching God to bless your Lordship with his manifold graces, we humbly take our leaves. At York this 6th day of July 1597.’ Signed by the Archbishop Charles Hales and Jo. Fuerne.

King James I. on the 9th of April 1603, entered Newcastle in his progress to the capital, and remained three days there. He granted the Burgesses a confirmatory charter by letters patent dated 31 March, 1604.

In the time of King Charles I. A. D. 1643, Newcastle sustained a siege, the Scotch advancing against it under the command of Lesley, who dividing the forces, attacked it vigorously on two sides at once. The Marquis of Newcastle, then Governor for the King, maintained the place, though the enemy gained part of the outworks; and some unfortunate sallies were made. In the succeeding year the Scots took it by storm. Sir John Merlay then Mayor retired to the castle with about 500 men, which he held till terms of capitulation were obtained. The inhabitants saved the town from being plundered by payment of a large sum of money. The Parliament disfranchised the body corporate, and ordered the Mayor to be tried by a court martial. Sir Henry Anderson, one of the Representatives in Parliament, was expelled the House for joining the royal army. The town at the time of these calamities, was also visited by the plague.

In the year 1646, the King came from Lumley Castle, in the county of Durham, and put himself under the protection of the Scotch General Leven.[*] Whilst they remained at Newcastle they raised a subsidy from the adjoining country, amounting to 8000l. a month before the King's arrival, and 9000l. a month after: which was obtained under the threats of military execution in case of default.

These men from whom the King sought protection, sold him for a trifling sum, though it was the price of their eternal infamy.

Many instances not mentioned here, occur in history, which shew the importance of Newcastle; as a place for convention, the rendezvous of large armies, and the resort of the Monarchs of both nations, their Envoys and Plenipotentiaries, when treaties were held between the two kingdoms.

In the reign of King Henry III. A. D. 1249, the town suffered greatly by fire. It sustained a great loss, by a sudden inundation of the river Tyne, in the reign of King Edward III. when 120 persons were drowned. In the year 1771, it again suffered by an inundation; when four of the arches of the bridge were destroyed, with 22 houses, and six of the inhabitants.
[†]
One of the houses remained for some time, suspended in an amazing manner, over a dreadful chasm, sustained by the compactness of its materials and its timber; and clinging by a small part of its foundation, on one of the piers, from which the arch was broken down. From thence the miserable inhabitants looked on the raging waters and the horrid ruins with distraction, and sent forth cries of despair to multitudes of spectators, who could not lend them aid. At length the fatal moment arrived that closed the tremendous spectacle; the house with its inhabitants sunk, and were swallowed up in the destructive torrent.

The ancient bridge was of wood and in the 33d year of the reign of King Henry III. was destroyed by fire. The late bridge was constructed of stone, and consisted of 12 arches; three of which on the north were closed up and used as cellars. It was built about 500 years ago, Walter Kirkham,[*] Bishop of Durham, being a great contributor thereto.[†] It was crowded with buildings. Near the middle was a tower with an iron gate, which the Corporation used as a town prison. This tower was of considerable service some years ago, in preventing the further communication of a fire which consumed many houses adjoining it. At the south end was formerly another tower and a draw-bridge. A blue stone near the middle of the bridge denoted the boundary of the town's liberty, the southern end of the bridge appertaining to the See of Durham. In the year 1416, a claim of the Corporation to the whole bridge occasioned a suit, in which the right of the Bishop of Durham to the southern part was established. Thomas Ruthal, Bishop of Durham in the reign of King Henry VII. repaired the southern part.[‡]

A strong building crossed the bridge, which was used as a magazine for the town. On the south front was an elegant statue of King Cha. II. with this motto, Adventus Regis, Solamen Gregis. There was an opening in the battlements of the bridge railed with iron, for the convenience of passengers to look upon the river and shipping: Mr Bourne relates a story, that from thence one Anderson, an Alderman, dropt his signet ring into the river; that some time afterwards his own servant having bought a salmon for his table, in opening the fish the ring was found in its intrails, and was in his days in the custody of a descendant of Mr Anderson. Herodotus gives an account of a similar circumstance happening to Polycrates King of Samos, who was called the favourite of Fortune.

On the 20th of June 1770, the workmen began to pull down the west end of St. Thomas's chapel, in order to open the passage to the bridge.

In the inundation 11th Nov. 1771, the water was supposed to be at its height about seven in the morning, and to have risen upwards of 12 feet above high water mark in spring tides. From Tyne Head, in Aldston Moor, to Shields, was a continued scene of horror and devastation.

An act of parliament passed 3d June 1772, to enable the Bishop of Durham and his successors to raise a competent sum of money, to be applied for the repairing, improving, or rebuilding such part of Tyne Bridge as belongs to the See of Durham.

On the 10th June 1772, one Stephenson contracted to build a temporary bridge over the Tyne in four months time, under a great penalty; which was performed.

On Tuesday 25th April 1775, the first stone of the south pier of the new bridge, within the boundaries of this Corporation, was laid by Sir Matthew White Ridley, Mayor.

From the evidence of the ancient name of Pons Aelii and the Roman road from Chester leading thereto, it is conjectured that the Romans had a bridge here.

Mr Pennant is of opinion, ‘that part of the Roman bridge remained till the late inundation; for from the observation of workmen upon the old piers, those as well as the piers of the bridge at Bywell, seem originally to have been formed without any springs for arches. This was a manner of building used by the Romans, witness the bridge built over the Danube by Trajan at Severin, whose piers (he believes) still exist. Adrian was probably the founder of the bridge at Newcastle, which was called after his family name Pons Aelii, in the same manner as Jerusalem was styled Elia Capitolina, and the games he instituted at Pincum in Maesia, Aeliana Pincensia. The coins discovered on pulling down some of the piers in 1774, confirm my opinion. Several were discovered, but only three or four rescued from the hands of the workmen. All of them are coins posterior to the time of Adrian, probably deposited there in some later repairs. One of them is a beautiful Faustina the Elder after her deification. Her forehead is bound with a small tiara; her hair full, twisted and dressed a la moderne; round is inscribed Diva Faustina. On the reverse is Ceres, with a torch in one hand and ears of corn in the other. The inscription Augusta S. C. ’

‘The next has the laureated head of Antoninus Pius. On the reverse Apollo, with a patera in one hand and a plectrum in the other; the legend so much defaced as to be illegible.’

‘The third is Lucius Verus (like that of Faustina after consecration). On the reverse is a magnificent funeral pile, and the word Consecratio. S. C. ’

Within a little distance from Newcastle lies

Notes

*

From the Manuscripts of Roger Gale, Esq Extract of a letter from Chr. Hunter, Esq M. D. to Roger Gale, Esq

7th May, 1735.

Pliny is the only author we can gather any thing from remarkable concerning the Varduli, and that so very concise, I think deserves a place here. In conventum Cluniensem Varduli ducunt populos XIV ex qutbus Albanenses tantum nominare libeat. Nat. Hist. Lib. III. Ca. 3. Sect. 4. of the last Paris edition; and in Lib. IV. Ca. 20. Sect. 34, he enumerates the Verduloruin, Oppida, Morosgi Menosca, Vesperies, Amanum Portus ubi nunc Flaviobriga Colonia, where Mr Hardauin recites the modern names; and as Gruter's almost infinite collection affords no inscription wherein the Varduli are named, I presume the Roman oeconomy under the Emperor Trajan, by descent a Spaniard, if not sooner, had abolished the old distinctions of separate governments, and reduced the whole province under one general name Hispania, which afterwards the Notitia Imperii Occidentalis divides into three consular provinces, under the direction of Presidents, and places no garrison of the Varduli in any fortress in the eastern or western empire.

I am, Sir,
Your's, &c. CHRIS. HUNTER.

Answer to the preceding letter by Mr Gale.

London, 7th June, 1735.

As to the two inscriptions you sent me, I will venture to give you my thoughts on them, not doubting but you will excuse me where I differ from you, since what I offer proceeds only from a love of truth, and no spirit of altercation.

The first of them is very curious, as it gives us the name of a Legatus Augustalis & Propraetor, hitherto unknown in Britain, and which ought, as I think, to be read as follows.

Numini Augusti et Genio Cohortis secundae Vardullorum Equitatae Miliariae sub Antistio Advento Legato Augusti propraetore F. Tiranus Tribunus dat dedicatque Rite.

To read G R in the 4th line Gregulium is not a little doubtful; it cannot well be supposed that the tribune of the cohort would dedicate an alter to the deity of the Emperor, and at the same time to the genius of the common soldiers, exclusive of the genius of the officers, of which he himself was one; and how to read it otherwise is as uncertain, if the letters are G R as in your copy: but if they are C R, as on the altar given us by Mr Horsley, Durham, No. 26, in his Brit. Rom. and which you say has C very apparent instead of G, they may denote Civium Romanorum, and these Varduli a people of Spain, admitted to the freedom of the city of Rome for some extraordinary merit, or by some Emperor's favour, perhaps their countryman Trajans: this was a privilege frequently conferred on foreigners, even whole towns and nations, and at last communicated by Antoninus Pius omnibus [Vide Span•. Exercit. de Civ. Rom. apud Graevii Thes. Tom. XI. p. 64. S. C.] in commune subjectis, by which it seems as if this altar had been erected before this general grant of that Emperor, for it is no great honour or advantage for these Varduli to value themselves upon, if they had enjoyed it only in common with all the rest of the world. Monsieur Spanheim observes Exercit. 1ma. ad Constitution. Imp. Antonini de Civ. Rom. Quod sub M. Antonino Imp. Civitate donati essent, quicunq. in Romani orbis provinciis aut oppidis delecti essent Milites ut Praesidiarii in Imperii limitibus constituerentur: this seems contradictory to the first mentioned grant, since it only confers the freedom of the city upon the soldiers in garrison on the frontiers of the empire, and the other gives it to all the subjects of the Roman empire without exception: perhaps the soldiers had this advantage given them at first, and upon finding the encouragement it gave them to defend the countries where they were quartered, it was thought adviseable to admit all the subjects of the empire to the same privilege, to interest them the more in preserving the whole from the attacks of the Barbarians; but there has been no small uncertainty among the learned to which of the Antonini this constitution is owing; some attributing it to Antoninus Pius, others to Marcus Aurelius, and Mr Spanheim, with great reason, to Antoninus Caracalla, from Dion Cassius chiefly, who tells us this privilege was granted by him Omnibus qui in Orbe Romano erant, not so much for the honor and advantage of it to the people, as for the filling his treasury, since it made them liable to the payment of several taxes from which they were before exempted; so that the soldiers had this benefit conferred on them for their services, and the rest of the people afterwards most likely to drain their purses.

In Gruter's Thesaur. p. CCCCLV. 6. is mentioned T. Antistius Praefectus Alae Sulpiciae C. R. i. e. Civium Romanorum, and in page CCCCLIX. 8. L. Praesentius Praefectus Coh. I. Afr. C. R. E. which is read Praefectus Cohortis Primae Afrorum Civium Romanorum Equitatae [Vide Urfatus C. R.] just the same as that at Lanchester, only changing Afrorum into Vardulorum. A Cohors Equitata was composed partly of horse, partly of foot, as Vegetius [Lib. 11. C. 2.] informs us. Prima Cohors habet mille centum et quinque: Equites Loricator centum triginta duos et appellatur Milliaria. I must own the Cohors in this inscription is called Secunda Vardulorum, but that is only in respect to the Cohors prima Vardulorum, of which an inscription was found at Riechester in Northumberland. This second Cohors of the Varduli might however be the prima auxiliaria of some legion, perhaps the VI. and in more esteem for some eminent service or fortunate accident than the first, not dignified with the honourable title and privileges Civium Romanorum, and perhaps also independent of any legion; and after all, the sole reason why one of these Cohorts was called the first and the other the second, might have been from the priority of time when they were first raised.

This Antistius Adventus seems also to have been Legatus Augusti & Propaetor in Belgium, from an altar found near Utrecht upon which he is called Caius Antistius.

Jovi Opt. Maximo summano Exsuperantissimo soli invicto Opollini, Lunae, Dianae, Fortunae, Marti Victoria Paci Colus Antisius Adventus Legatus Augusti Propraetore Dat. and this justifies my reading of his titles here, Legatas Augusti Propraetore Dat. and not Legionis Augustae Propraetore, there being no mention of a military body in the Belgic inscription; besides, we never meet with a legion stiled Augusta singly, without some other adjunctive distinction as the Legio II. VI. or Antoniniana Augusta, nor could there be any such officer as a Praetor or Propaetore Legionis, that magistrate being intirely civil.

Sir,
Your's, &c. R. GALE.

↵

*
Dr Hunter, Mr Horsley, Mr Pennant.
↵

†
Dr Stukely, p. 48.
↵

‡
Pennant.
↵

*
Bourne.
↵

*
Tanner, 391. Keith.
↵

†
Grey's Chorograph.
↵

‡
Two miles and 176 yards.
↵

‖
They were decorated with the effigies of men cut in stone placed on the tops of them as though they were watching. They had square holes over the walls to throw stones down.
↵

§

A gate at the Bridge End.

Then turning on the right honde to the Key, a chapell of the towne withe a macsun dieu.

Then a certen houses, with a Watar Gate and a sqware haull place for the towne, and a chapelle there, as I remembar.

Then a mayne stronge wall on the haven side to Sandgate to Tynemouthe way.

Then 3 towers to Pandon Gate.

There harde by dothe — Deene water dryve a mille, and passithe threwghe the — on this water there by is a litle archid bridge.

And about this quartar stoode the howse of the Friers Ordinis S. Trinitatis.

From Pandon Gate to Pilgrime Gate 15 towres.

Thens to Newgate 8.

The observant Friers howse stode by Pandon Gate. It was a very fayre thinge.

And lower in the same street, but on the contrary side a litle with a lane, was the house of the Augustine Freires.

From Newgate to Westgate a mightye stronge thinge of 4 wardes and an yron gate 13 towres.

The faire place of Blake Freres stode bytwixt Newgate and Westgate.

The Nunnes Dene having 2 bridges refortithe towards Pilgrime Gate, and so downe ward to Tine.

The watar of boothe the denes cummithe from the cole pitts at Cowhill or Cowmore, half a mile owt of Newcastelle.

Ther is a parke waullid and a lodge witheout the Blak Freres and the towne waulle.

From Westgate to Tineside 16, parte almost round, parte sqware. There I saw the hospitall of S—, and then the White Freres, whos garth cam almost to Tinefyde.

Ther be 3 hedds of condutes for fresch watar to the toun.

Lol. Itin. v. 8. p. 40, 41.

↵

*

The wall upon the Knoul cannot be understood of any other than the Roman wall, because it had this name from very ancient times, long before the building of the town wall.

Bourne.

↵

†

This was one of the Roman towers, as was very visible before the taking down the upper part of it, for it was of the same size, model, and stone with the tower of Rutchester in Northumberland.

Ibid.

↵

‡
Pennant, Bourne.
↵

§
Wallis.
↵

*
Wallis.
↵

†
Leland's Itin.
↵

*
Wallis.
↵

*

At the West Gate came Thornton in,

With a Hap and a Halfpenny and a Lambskin.

Bourne.

↵

*

The town after the compleating of the walls was divided into 24 wards, according to the number of the gates and round towers in the wall, which towers and gates were wont to be defended in times of hostility with the Scots by the particular wards appropriated to them.

Bourne.

↵

†
Pennant.
↵

*

In the 3 yere of Henry the 2. the King of Scottes had the Erledom of Lancastre yn his handes, the cite of Cairluel, Bamburgh Castel and Newcastel.

Lel. Col. v. 1. p. 471.

↵

†
The records have of late years been strictly kept, and much interest must be used to have access to the archieves: to me, whose intention was chiefly to make a descriptive view, such applications were not of such moment as they are to the learned compiler from whom we may in a little time hope to receive a compleat History of Newcastle.
↵

‡

- The Barony of Herons.

- — Dilston.

- — Walton.

- — Bolbeck.

- — Bolam.

- — Gaugye.

- — Marley.

- — Bothal.

- — Delaval

- — Rosse.

- — Bywell. And

- — Copun.

↵

*
Wallis
↵

*
Tanner 391. Pennant, vol. 2. p. 306.
↵

†

Monasterium Monialium S. Barptolemaei in Novo Castro super Tinam Flu, Henricus Rex, confirmavit Donat.

Testes Gul. de Mandevilla; Reginald de Curtenay; Gul. Stutevilla; Thomas Bardolf; Richar. Giffard.

Hospitale S. Mariae de praedicto Castello in usus Monialium datum.

Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 41.

Agas mother to Margaret Quene of Scotland, and Christian her sister, becam Nunnes at Newcastel upon Tyne; after that King Malcolm was killed at Alnewick.

Ibid, vol. I. p. 531.

36 King Henry VIII. it was granted to William Barantyne and others.

Vide in Madoxii Formul. Angl. p. 50. Cartam Hugonis Episc. Dunelm. de terra in Burgo Dunelm. p. 132. Priorissae et conventus dimissionem XX acrarum terrae in Haliwell. p. 271. Concessionem omnium terrarum Hospitalis S. Edmundi de Gateshend priorissae & conventus de Newcastle. P. 69. Roberti Episc. Dunelm. confirm. dictae concess. P. 287. Priorissae & conventus dimissionem Terrae in Gateshend. P. 375. relaxationem priorissae et conventui de uno Messuagio cum pertinentiis in Novo Castro.

Tanner's Notitia.

Prioresies. Dna Cristiana oc. ad pentec. 1233—Sibil Gategang 1331. Dna Alice Davill 9 May, 1355—Amisia de Belford 10 Jun. 1367—Katerina 21 Sep. 1403 (Rot Skirlaw Bp No. 93).—Margaret Hawkeswell, 1 May, 1446 (Madox form. p. 271.)—Agnes Danby, 9 Oct. 1471.—Johanna Baxter, 20 Aug. 1486. Dame Joan Pr. granted a lease 4 King Hen. VII. A. D. 1486. Johanna. She resigned for a pension of 1l. 10s. per ann.—Agnes Lawson last Prioress. She surrendered this Convent 3 Jan. 1540, 31 King Hen. VIII. before Ric. Layton, one, &c. and had a pension of 6l. per ann. assigned her, which she enjoyed in 1553, in which year remained in charge the following pensions.—Johanna Prioress 1l. 10l. Johanna Brodrigge 1l. 6s. 8d. Johanna Younger 1l. 6s. 8d. Eliz. Cranmer 1l. 6s. 8d. and to Cecily Middleton 1l. 6s. 8d.

Randal's Manuscripts.

He notes a Charter of confirmation of one of the Henrys, which he presumes was Henry Second. The witnesses shew it to be the same as remarked by Leland.

↵

*

By Pandon Gate stood the Grey Friers house, a very fair thing, of the Caerluells foundation, before the year 1300. After the dissolution it was granted 36 King Hen. 8. to the Earl of Essex and James Rockby, &c.

Tanner's Not.

The Friers Minors of this Monastery were Conventual, for St Francis divided them into Conventual Observantines and Capuchins; but King Hen. 7. made them Observants: he was a great lover and patron of that order. King Hen. 8. A. D. 1536, made them Conventuals again.

Fr. Tho. Baxter ord. fri. minor ord Pbr Mar. 23. 1497.

Fr. Joh. Cooke, Joh. Esby Fr. Will. Hudson ord Subdiac, Mar. 23. 1497.

Fres. Joh. de Machlina Ord fri. Minor, de Observanc. Accoliti.

Fra• de Machlina Ord fri. Minor, de Observanc. Accoliti.

Fox. Reg. p. 15.

Randal's Manuscripts.

The Gray Freres in Newcastel of the Cairluelles foundation, originally Marchauntes of the same town, and after men of land. The Thirgilles of the wold of Yorkshir have now by heyre Generalles Cairluelles landes.

Lel. Itin. v. 6. p. 46.

↵

*

It was granted 35 King Hen. 8. to the Mayor and Burgesses of this town.

Pat. 48 Hen. 3. n. 35.—Pat. 8. Edw. 1. m.—Pat. 5 Edw. 2. p. 2. m. 5.—Pat. 11 Edw. 11. p. 2. m. 30.—Pat. 15 Edw. 2. p. 3. m. 3. vel. 4.—Pat. 3. Edw. p. 1. m. Pat. 15 Edw. 3. p. 3. m. 3. vel. 4.

Tanner's Not.

It was dependant upon Tinemouth.

Priors.—Frater Joh. Rokesburgh oc. Prior, 13 July, 1476, v. Madoxs form. Angl. p. 127.— Fryer Rich. Marshall: he with Fryers Dav. Simpson and Joh. Sowrby signed a Grant 28 King Henry 8. A. D. 1537.—This Prior resigned and went into Scotland 1551. Richard Harding the last Prior 1538 by res. Marshall.—This Pr. or Gardianus Domus fratru. Praedicatoru. with 12 brethren surrendered 10 Jan. 30 King Hen. 8. Their annual revenue was then 2l. 19s. 6d.

Randal's Mannuscripts.

↵

†

The Blake Freres of the foundation of Syr Peter and Syr Nicholas Scottes, father and sun, Knightes boothe. But the site of the howse was gyven by 3 sisters.

The landes of Scotte of Newcastelle cam by doughters to Heron of Ford, to Denton, &c. The beginning of these Scottes was merchaundice.

Lel. Itin. v. 6. p. 46.

↵

*
This still remains a matter of complaint, for it is abominably filthy; and the curious pass through it amidst those unseemly annoyance of which some animals are peculiarly delicate in their concealment.
↵

*

The Augustines foundid by the Lord Rose. In this house be 3 or 4 faire toures.

Lel. Itin. v. 6. p. 46.

↵

†

Lower in the street not far from Pandon Gate, a little within a lane, was the Austin Friers, founded by the Lord Ross; which house, after the dissolution, was granted to John Duke of Northumb. 5 Edw. 6.

Pat. 19. Ed. I. m. 7. vel 8. Pat. 34 Ed. I. m.—Pat. 11. Edw. II. p. 1. m. 23. de terra in Cowgate concessa fratribus S. Augustini per Will Roos de Hamelake.—Pat. 12 Ed. II. p. 1. m. 4 vel 5.—Pat. 16. Edw. II. p. 2. m. 15 promanso elargandon.—Pat. 3. Edw. III. p. 1. m. Pat. 4 Edw. 3. p. 2. m. 43. vel 44. Tanner's Notitia.

V. Pilkington's Reg. p. 75 at the end.

- Cuthb. Jordayne Fres Ordinis S. Augusti ord Pbr 23 Dec. 1501 (Epo Cuthberto.)

- Joh. Ruther Fres Ordinis S. Augusti ord Pbr 23 Dec. 1501 (Epo Cuthberto.)

Andr. Kelle Pr. or Warden Domus Convent. fru Augustin. surrendered 9 Jan. 1539, 30 King Hen. 8. Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

‡

Between Westgate and the side of the river Tyne was the house of the White Friars, founded by King Edw. I. as Speed, but as others by Roger Thornton, Merchant. It was granted 37 King Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Gresham and Rich. Billingford.

Pat. 35 Ed. I. m. 4 vel 5.—Pat. 4 Ed. II. p. 2. m. 18 vel 19.—Pat. 10 Edw. III. p. 2. m.

Tanner's Notitia.

The Carmelites were first brought into England by Ra. Freeborne, and placed at Huln near Alnwick as before-mentioned under that head.

Edw. Dinely Carmelita apud N. Castru. egregius cocionator, socius Nic, Kentaru ordinis Provincialis claruit 1450. v. Tanner's Bilioth p. 228. Fr. Rob. Benton ord fru Carmelitar ord Phr 23 Mar. 1497, e Regro Fox. p. 15.

Gerald Spore last Pr. or Gardianus dumus Conventual frum Carmelitaru. with seven Friars two Novices surrendered. It was valued at 9l. 11s. 4d. at the suppression.

Part of the ground on which this house stood was purchased by Adam Askew, M. D. a gent. very eminent in his profession, and a native of Kendale in Westmoreland, who in 1740 built an elegant house on the spot. Randal's Manuscripts.

The White Freres of the foundation of Thornton, first a marchante and then a landid man. The landes of Thorton be descendid to the Lord Lumley, so that almost all the faire landes that Lomeley cam by this Thorton. Witton in Northumberland, and the isle in the Bishoprick, and also Lulworth were Thortons.

The advancement of Lumeley to be Lord was by marriage of a bastard doughter of King Edwards 4.

Thomas Lumeley, after Lord Lumeley, slew in the diche of Windsor Castelle Giles Thornton, bastard to rich Thornton. Lel. Itin. v. 6. p. 46.

↵

*

Here was Temp. Hen. 3. a Friery of Brethren de Penetentia Jesu Christi, scituated in a place called the Constable Gerth.

Pat. 51 Hen. 3. m. pro place sua elarganda. Tanner's Notitia.

↵

†

The Crosie Freres, alias Walknolle, of the foundation of Laurence Acton sum tyme Mayre of Newcastelle.

The Actons landes cam joyntely with the Thorntons to Lomeley.

Thornton Mayre of Newcastell, borne in Wytton. He purchasid 800 marke land, and died wonderful riche. Some say by prices of sylver owre taken on the se.

Lel. Itin. vol. 6. p. 46.

↵

‡
Bourne, p. 169.
↵

§

Fox p. 12—Steph. Sheraton and Cuth. Yonge. ad. titim domus Sci Mich. de Walk-knowl ord Pbri 11 Mar. 1496.

Rob. Wales, &c. Ord Pbri 23 Sep. 1497. Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*
Wall 211.
↵

*

There was a Priory or Hospital (without the walls of the town in the suburbs of Pilgrim-street) of a Master and Brethren, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and founded as Speed saith by King Hen. I. It was valued, 26 King Hen. VIII, at 9l. 11s. 4d. per ann. as Speed; and though granted away in the time of Queen Elizabeth, yet was re-established in the 9th year of King James I. when the chapel of St Thomas on the bridge over the Tyne was annext to it. It consists now of a Master and three poor Brethren, Burgesses of Newcastle, who have each of them 3l. 6s. 8d. per ann. It is under the patronage and government of the Mayor and Burgesses of the Corporation.

- Pat. 19 Ed. I. m. 3. vel 4. Tanner's Notitia.

- Pat. 5 Ric. II. p. 2. m. 35 pro advocatione Ejusdem. Tanner's Notitia.

- At the Surpression val. at 9l. 11s. 4d. Proc. Ep. 3s. 4d.

Masters.—John de Bland 1374. 15 Feb. 1569, the Mayor and Burgesses of Newcastle granted the next presentation of St M. Magdalen, called the Maidlenes, to Hen Anderson, Rob. Mitford, and Chr. Mitford.—Edm. Wyseman, inst. 5 Oct. 1564. This took no effect. — Rob. Mydforde 1586. Randal's MSS.

↵

†

Mr Wallis gives the following list of ornaments belonging to the chapel.

"In the mayoralty of Wm Harding 1444, the following list was taken of the plate, sacred vestments, and other things belonging to it.

Three chalices gilt with gold, one entire vestment of bloody velvit woven about with golden fringe, with one cap, one casule, three albs for the principal festivals.

↵

40

Master, by a solemn act transfer their right of nominating a new Master to Tho. (Langley) Bp of Durham, on Oct. 26, 1412, by Rob. de Berall Not. Publ. in the presence of Sir John Palman Priest, Robt Middylham and Joh. Walghes Clerks of D. dioc. Witnesses. The Bp, authorised by the said act or instrument, collated a Master. (Langley's Reg. p. 91.) Will Cartell frater ord. regular. S. Augustini in Hosp, B. M. and S. Joh. Evang. vulgarit nucupat. West-spittle. col. 1. Oct. 1413, p. m. Fris Burneham. Pr. Tho. Bp Dun. h. v.—Whether Cartell was frightned by the Bp's proceedings, or on what other account I know not, he soon after resigned the custody or mastership of the hospital on 20 Feb. 1416, before the Bp, in the presenceof Sir Robt Umfraville, Knt. and Messrs John Howingham, Archd. of D. and Tho. Rome, Monk of D. in S. Theologia Magro. Ric. Holme and Tho. Leyes, Rrs of churches pochial within the dice. of York and Linc. and Will. Browne Rector of St Dennis's church in the city of York and others.—Magr Joh. Fitz Henry Carr, of the Priory of Newburgh ord. S. Augustini Ebor Dioc. Col. 28 Oct. 1417, p. res. fris Carlell.—Tho. Ep. Dun. h. v.—On the 5th Jan. 1424, the same Bishop, in order to preserve the goods of the hospital, issued a sentence of excommunication against every person stealing the goods belonging to it, viz. Libros Calices aliaq. Jocalia & ornamenta.—Magr Johes Bird in legib. B. Custos 1501. Roland Swinborne, A. M. 1528, p. m. ult. Inc. Pr. Edw. Swinborne Major et Communitas Villae Novi Castri. He resigned 29 Aug. 1531, exchanging with Robert Davill for a Prebend in Norton church in the county of Durham.— Robt Davell, Cl. pres. 29 Aug. 1531, p. res. Swinborne. Pr. Gilb. Middleton Arm. Major, &c. —Joh. Raymers, A. M. inst. 25 Apr. 1558, p. mort. Davell—Rich. Master, M. D. Regiae Majestatis in aula serviens, was pres. by Q. Eliz. 1564.—Anth. Garforth, Cl. inst. 9 Oct. 1579, p. depr. Raymes.—Hen. Dethicke, A. M. and L. L. B. inst. 30 June, 1580, p. mort. Garforthe. Pr. Rog. Rawe, Mayor, &c.—Ra. Pattenson, A. M. inst. 9 May, 1583, p. res. Dethicke. Pr. Will. Riddell, Mayor, &c.—Hen. Ewbanke, A. M. inst. 15 Mar. 1585, p. res. Pattenson. He resigned 18 Oct. 1615.

The Grammar School was founded in St Nicholas church-yard by Thomas Horsley, who was Mayor of Newcastle in the years 1525 and 1533. It was removed to the West Spittle 1559.

Queen Eliz the 2d foundress. The Mayor and Burgesses patrons.

Burras resigned the Free School in St Nicholas church-yard 1559.

Sir Geo. Selby, Mayor, turned the chapel of this hospital into a school-house, and vestry into an election house.

- Master's salary 50l. per ann.

- Usher's salary 35l. per ann.

- Paid by the Town.

- A second Usher's salary, and 32l. 10s.

- Writing Master's, paid by the Town. 35l.

Rob. Fowberry, A. M. 1615.—Edw. Wigham, A.M. 1623.—Fra. Grey, Cl. 1629.—Amor Oxley, A. M.—Nich. Hall, S. T. B. 1649.—Geo. Ritschell.—John Bewick 1669.—Rich.Garthwaite, A. M. 1671.—John Cotterel, A. M. 1690—Tho. Rudd, A. M. 1699.—Jam. Jurin, A. M. Fell. of Trin. Col. Camb. and afterwards Doctor of Physick 1709.—Edm. Lodge, Cl. by res. Jurin.—Rich. Dawes, A. M. 1739. He resigned and had an annuity of 80l. a year for life given him by the Corporation.—Hugh Moises, A.M. 1750.

↵

*
10 Jan. A. D. 1539. Tho. Wayde Magister sive custos Cellae sive Domus de Walleknowle infra villam de Novo Castro, &c. ordinis sanctae Trinitatis, surrendered this religious house.
↵

†

It was a custom in the North, for the bride to have a purse at her girdle, in which she received the bridal presents of her friends. It seems as if there had been a custom in Newcastle, for poor Burgesses to have a bridal feast at the expence of the Corporation; but of this I have not any authority, but the article which refers to this note.

The revenue of this hospital was valued, 26 King Henry 8. at 12l. 3s. 10d. in the whole, and 8l. 0s. 1d. clear.

Vide in Mon. Angl. tom 11. p. 474, 475. licentiam regis pro fundatione ex Pat. 13. Hen. 4. p. 2. m. 14. Pat. 4. Hen. 4. p. 2. m. 38. pro pecia terrae concess pauperibus Domus Dei per Rog. Thornton edificatae. Pat. 2. Hen. 6. p. 3. m. 8. vel. 9. Tanner's Not.

Bourne says the foundation was for a Chaplain to pray for the founder's soul, and the souls of his father and mother, and of Agnes his late wife. In the notes is given at length the licence noted by Tanner.

Martinus Hallymane Master of Masendew oc. 14 Feb. 1582. Bishop Barnes's visitation.

Randal's Manuscripts.

In a grant of the next presentation set forth in Randal's Manuscripts, from J. Lumley Mil. Dns de Lumley, &c. patronus libe Cap. S. Kath. this place is thus described: ‘Super montem fabulum infra V. Novi Castri.’

↵

*

Carlile monasterium canonicorum dedicat. B. Mariae.

Walterus Presbyter Normannus, quem Rex W Rufus praefecerat urbi Carleolensi, caepit inchoare monasterium in honorem B. Mariae, quo in ipso principio sublato. Hen. I. Rex praedictum monasterium prefecit, canonicosque regulares introduxit, deditque monasterio 6. Ecclesias, viz. Newcastle, Newburne, Warkeware, Robern, Wichingham, and Corbridge, secitque Adelwaldum confessorum suum primum priorem.

Lel. Col. vol. 1. p. 121.

↵

*
St. Nicholas, to whom this church is dedicated, was Bishop of Myra, a city in Lycia, a province in Asia Minor; he lived about the beginning of the 4th century, and during the persecution of Licinius the Roman Emperor was sent into banishment: But after the death of that tyrant, he revisited his diocese, and threw out all the idols which he found in it. He is said to have assisted at the general council of Nice, where he strenuously opposed the Arians: he is commemorated 6th December.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

†

A state of the Lectureships from the Manuscripts of Dr. Ch. Hunter.

It appears, that Pearson, Lecturer of St. Nicholas about 1606, was paid quarterly a salary out of the town of Newcastle, and likewise for several years after during his continuance.

It appears, that Shaw was about 1614 Lecturer of St. John's, and had a salary quarterly paid him out of the town, and the like for several years after during his continuance.

Fran. Grey, about 1622, was Lecturer of St. Andrew's, and had also a salary quarterly paid him out of the town, and the like for several years after during his continuance.

There were Lecturers of All saints about the same time, as Dr. Jennison and others, who had also a salary paid them out of the town, and continued in the like manner till the late civil wars.

The salaries were not one and the same, but added and increased as the town thought fit. Upon this first settlement they had those salaries out of the town for preaching in the forenoon, and the parishes contributed for their preaching in the afternoons. Some time after the town of Newcastle made an addition to the former salaries, and gave them an allowance for preaching both forenoon and afternoon: after which augmentation the parishes gave no further contribution. In this state have the Lectureships continued ever since, with an alteration still of salaries, more or less, as there was occasion, and at the will and pleasure of the patrons: and when any vacancy happened in any of the said churches, the Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Council of Newcastle, have from time to time chosen another in such room and stead, and the Bishop of Durham for the time being did always hitherto allow and approve of, by his licence, such person so chosen, being duly qualified.—Note the Lecturers of St. Nicholas and All-saints have this further advantage in it, which makes it the more valuable, that this preferment does no ways disqualify or incapacitate them from holding other livings with the cure of souls

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*

Great disputes have arose who this Robert Rhodes was: Grey says he was Prior of Tynemouth in the time of King Henry VI. Others suggest he was one of the Justices of the Bishop of Durham, and quote a register at Durham to prove Robert Rhodes and Agnes his wife lived about the year 1486: but Bourne with great propriety fixes on an eminent Merchant in Newcastle, and gives powerful arguments for his determination.

Bourne tells the following remarkable Story: ‘That when the Scots besieged the town in the civil wars, and made ineffectual efforts to reduce it, they sent a message threatening to destroy this fine steeple: in consequence of which, the Mayor ordered it to be filled with Scotch prisoners then in the town, which being made known to the besiegers, they forbore to shed the blood of their countrymen, and the elegant edifice was saved.’

↵

†
Pennant, vol. 2. p. 308.
↵

‡
The chief of which were, the building of Westgate; the Town House and Exchange; St. Catharine's Hospital; Monastery of Carmelites at Walk Knowle; a Chantry in the church of All-saints, value 6l. per annum, dedicated to St. Peter; and another in the same church, dedicated to St. Catharine, value 5l. 3s. 8d. and this Window.
↵

§
Wallis.—Gray's Chorographia inter Collectan. Oxfordiana.
↵

‖

The chantry of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist stood on the north side of the church: its original foundation was by Lawrence Prior of Durham, 14th King Stephen, 1149. It was refounded 6 King Edward III. by Richard de Emeldon, for three Chaplains. By an injunction of Richard Bishop of Durham, in the third year of his consecration, 1335: they were obliged to distribute after divine service, on the eve of the anniversary of his death, the sum of 6s. 8d. to 160 poor people. It was founded again in the reign of King Hen. 6. by Robert de Rhodes and his wife Agnes, for one Chaplain: the annual value 7l. 7s. 10d. besides a house given by the corporation for the Chaplain to live in.

One of the Chantries of St Catherine was founded by Allan de Durham. It was refounded in the reign of King Edward 3. by William Johnson and his wife Isabell, for one Chaplain: the annual value 6l. 15s.

The other Chantry of St Catherine by Nicholas and John Elliker: the annual value 3l. 14s. 8d.

The Chantry of St Peter and St Paul was founded by Adam de Fenrother and Alan Hilton, in the reign of King Hen. 4. the annual value 4l. 13s. 4d.

The Chantry of St Thomas was founded by John Thape cape, in the reign of King Edw. 3. the annual value 4l. 12s. 6d.

The Chantry of the blessed Virgin claims as high a foundation as the reign of King Edw. 1. but how much earlier and by whom is unknown, the deed of foundation being lost. It stood on the south side of the church, being a large porch; the annual value 5l. 16s. Nicholas de Carliol, capital Bailiff of the corporation 1328, and Peter Graper, mayor, 1305, paid each 2s. per annum to it.

The Chantry of St Margaret was founded by Stephen Whitgray and his wife Mary 17 King Rich. 2. 1394. The annual value 10 marks.

The Chantry of St Cuthbert was founded by Tho. de Errington and Wm Redmarshal, in the reign of King Rich. 2. The annual value 7l. 3s. 2d.

The Chantry of St Lyra was founded by Robert Castell in the reign of King Edward 3. The annual value 4l. 10s.

Bourne, Wallis, &c.

↵

*

St Ann's was founded by Wm Heron: the annual value 4l. 17s.

St Mary's, the founder unknown: the annual value of the endowment 4l. 3s. 6d.

Another Chantry was founded in honour of St Mary, by George Carr, Merchant, but never licensed: annual value of the endowment 5l. 6s. 8d.

There are three cellars under the chapel. Gilbert de Mitford, a burgess of Newcastle, paid annually for the middle one 14s. at the feast of St Martin in winter. It was confirmed to him 21st King Edw. 3. 1347, by charter from William Spyn, then Chaplain, and Guardian of the alms for the support of Tyne Bridge, with the consent of the Corporation: sealed with their seal, and signed by Peter Graper, Mayor, William de Acton, Hugh de Augerton, Hugh de Carliol, and John de Emeldon, Bailiffs.

Bourne, Wallis, &c.

↵

†

Grey is of opinion that it was dedicated to All Hallows, or All Saints, from the antient name of that part of the town Pampedon, which he says was so called from 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, imagining, I suppose, that it was so called of the Romans after the temple of Rome, the Pantheon, which was dedicated to all the Gods.

The church is 55 yards 1¼ foot long, and 25 yards 2 feet broad: a square tower: the bells were founded in 1696, of the metal of the statue of King James II. removed from Sandhill. The name of Robert Rhodes is on this steeple also.

The chancel stands on a vault supported by a center pillar and eight groin arches.

The Rood was an image of our Saviour upon the cross, made generally of wood, and placed on a loft erected for that purpose, just over the passage out of the church into the chancel; out of this mystery it is said, that the church represents the church militant, and the chancel the church triumphant; and who will pass out of the former into the latter, must go under the Rood loft, that is, they must go under the cross and suffer affliction. This image was wont to have the Virgin Mary on one side, and St John on the other. Savely's Church Hist. p. 199.

Bourne.

↵

‡

St Thomas's was founded by John Puthore Clerk: the annual value 4l. 8s. 4d.

St Mary's, founder unknown: the annual value 4l. 5s. 10d.

St John the Evangelist's was founded by Rich. Willisby and Rich. Fishlake: the annual value 4l. 15s. 4d.

St Peter's was founded by Roger de Thornton, the royal licence granted 13 King Henry IV. the annual value 6l. It was situate opposite to the founder's sepulchral monument.

St Catherine's had the same pious founder, the annual value 5l. 3s. 8d.

St John the Baptist's was founded by John Ward: the annual value 7l. 15s. 8d.

St Lyra's was founded in the reign of King Edw. III. by Richard Pickering: the annual value 3l. 8s. 4d.

Wallis.

↵

*

St Mary's founder unknown: the annual value 6l. 12s. 10d.

The Holy Trinity, is said to have been founded by Sir Adam de Atholl, Knight, whose remains are interred in it: the annual value 4l. 2s. 10d.

St Thomas's, founder unknown, and the annual value uncertain.

Ibid.

↵

*

The name and arms of Robert Rhodes are on the steeple.

There is a thing at the top of the quire, which though little known is yet of great certainty, and that is, the funnel or wood box in the form of a spout, which hangs from the top of this quire. This was a conveyance for an artificial dove on the day of Pentecost, to represent the descent of the Holy Ghost. That there were such things in churches, though in none that I know of in this town but this, is matter of fact. For thus we are told, that on Whitsunday they began to play a new interlude, then sent down a dove out of an owls nest devised in the roof of the church; but first they cast out rosin and gunpowder, with wildfire, and that must needs be the Holy Ghost which cometh with thunder and lightning.

Bourne.

In the church yard on a elegant tombstone.

Here lie the Remains of

John Cunningham

Of his Excellence

As a Pastoral Poet

His Works will remain a Monument

For Ages

After this tempory Tribute of Esteem

is in Dust forgotten.

He died in Newcastle 18 Sep. 1774.

Aged 44.

↵

†

St Thomas's was founded in the reign of King Edward II. by Adam de Durham, a burgess of this town: the annual value 4l. 3s.

St Mary's was founded in the reign of King Edward III. by Edward Scot: the annual value 4l. 4s. 4d.

The Holy Trinity was founded by John Dalton, Wm Akinshawe, and Andrew Acliffe, Clerks: the annual value 5l. 13s. 4d.

↵

*

The Exchange contains a variety of apartments, and also the Courts of justice for the town. Is of the architecture of the period of James I. The builder Robert Trollop is buried opposite to it in the church-yard of Gateshead. His statue pointing towards the Exchange, stood formerly over his grave, with these lines under his feet.

Here lies Robert Trollop

Who made you stones roll-up

When death took his soul-up

His body fill'd this hole-up. Pennant.

The story of the statue is believed to be fabulous: an anonymous writer has said lately in his strictures on the above publication, that the Epitaph has always been said to be made by Daniel De Foe, whilst at Gateshead, on some occasion; and adds, ‘At present there is neither inscription nor statue, nor do I believe there ever was on Trollop's monument.’ Whether Mr Pennant's known veracity will go further than the splenetick froth of a man who dares not subscribe his name to his belief, the reader must determine.

↵

*
Randal.
↵

*
Gardiner, ch. 2. p. 7.
↵

†
Madox Firma Burgi, p. 54.
↵

*

Burgesses returned to Parliament for Newcastle.

Anno Regni.

King Edward I.

Parliament.

26—John Scot

Peter Graper

at York

30—Nich. Carliol

Tho. de Frisma

London

35—Nich. le Scot

Carlisle

King Edward II.

1—Gilbert de Fleming

Peter Fisher

Northampton

2—Johannes filius Henrici

Gilb. Hawkins

Westminster

4—Rich. de Emeldon

John de Carliol

ditto

5—Rich. de Emeldon

Nich. de Carliol

London

[*]6—Gilbert Fleming

John de Keteringham

Westminster

[†]8—Nich. le Scotts

Rich. de Emeldon

York

15—Michael Scott

Rob. Angerton

Westminster

19—Rich. de Emeldon

Adam Graper

ditto

King Edward III.

[‡]1—Richard de Emeldon

Tho. Daulin

York

2—Rich. Emelden

Adam Graper

Northampton

4—Will. Barnton

Gilb. Haukin

Westminster

6—Rich. Emelden

John Denton

ditto

7—John Denton

Hugo de Necham

York

8—John de Denton

Hugo de Necham

ditto

9—John de Emeldon

Rich. Heite

Westminster

12—Peter de Angerton

Tho. Holiwell

ditto

13—Rob. de Haliwell

Tho. de Haliwell

ditto

14—John Denton

Rich. Galloway

ditto

14—Nich. Scott

John Scott

ditto

15—Will. de Emeldon

Nich. de Sadlingstaves

ditto

17—Rich. de Emeldon

Gilbert Hawkin

ditto

20—Will. de Atton

Rich. Angerton

ditto

21—Rob. Angerton

Rob. de Peturick

ditto

22—Peter Graper

Will. Ditton

ditto

22—Thomas Worship

John Reynald

ditto

24—John de Chaumbre

Nich. Radun

ditto

25—John de Chaumbre

Nich. de Rodun

ditto

32—Will. del Strothe

Nich. de Rodun

ditto

33—Philip Graper

Tho. Frismarisco

ditto

34—Will. de Strechre

John de Stanhop

ditto

35—John othe Chaumbre

John de Stanhop

ditto

36—John de la Chaumbre

Rob. de Duxfield

ditto

39—Will. Acton

Hugo Hawkins

ditto

45—Rich. Dacton

Rob. de Angerton

ditto

46—Rob. de Hangerton

Laurence de Acton

ditto

47—Henry Scot

Roger Lelilax

ditto

50—Nich. de Sabram

Laurence de Acton

ditto

51—Tho. Del Chaumbre

John Howel

ditto

King Richard II.

1—John de Bulkham

Rich. de Stanhop

ditto

3—Nich. Sabram

John Howell

ditto

7—John Howell

Sampson Harding

ditto

8—John Howell

Sampson Harding

ditto

9 —Steph. Whitgray

Sampson Harding

ditto

10—Laurence de Atton

Phil. Howell

ditto

11—Sampson Harding

Will. Bishopdale

ditto

13—Will. Bishopdale

Steph. Whitgray

ditto

15—Will. de Bishopdale

Laurence de Acton

ditto

16—John de Moreton

Rich. de Langeston

ditto

17—Henry de Kersell

Tho. Dirindon

ditto

20—Sampson Harding

Will. Redmarshull

ditto

King Henry IV.

1—Laurence Acton

Roger Thornton

Westminster

3—Rich. Bennet

Robert Darcy

ditto

12—Roger Thornton

Roger de Bothe

ditto

King Henry V.

1—Will. Johnson

Rob. Whelpington

ditto

1—Rich. de Dalton

Rob. Whelpington

ditto

2—Will. de Middleton

Rol. Swineburne

Leicester

3—Roger del Both

Tho. de Hibburne

Westminster

5—Roger Thornton

John de Strother

ditto

7—John Paulin

Rob. Hibburne

Gloucester

8—John de Wall

Roger del Both

Westminster

9—Will. Ellerby

Roger del Both

ditto

King Henry VI.

1—Rob. Whelpington

Emeric Herring

ditto

2—Rob. Whelpington

Roger del Both

ditto

3—Will. Madecroft

Andomar Herring

ditto

6—Will. Madecroft

Rob. Rodes

ditto

7—Rob. Rodes

Tho. Papeday

ditto

11—Will. Harding

Rob. Rodes

ditto

13—Edw. Bartram

Rob. Rodes

ditto

20—Rob. Rodes

Rob. Heworth

ditto

25[*]—Will. Harding

Tho. Morrislaw

Cambridge

27—Will. Harding

John Dalton

Westminster

28—Rob. Heworth

Rob. Baxter

ditto

29—John Ward

Rich. Welden

ditto

38—Tho. Weltden

Rob. Mannes

ditto

King Edward IV.

7—John Wood

Rich. Westden

ditto

12—Will. Blackston

Rob. Folbery

ditto

17—

ditto

The writs, returns, and indentures from 17 King Edward IV. to 33 King Edward VIII. are all lost.

B. Willis.

King Henry VIII.

33—

Westminster

King Edward IV.

1—Rob. Brandling, Knt.

ditto

7—Rob. Lewen, Mayor

Bertram Anderson

ditto

Queen Mary.

1—Rob. Brandling, Knt.

Edw. Hall

ditto

1—Bertram Anderson

Cuthbert Horsley

ditto

Philip and Mary.

1 and 2—Bertram Anderson

Joh. Watson, Esq

Westminster

2 and 3—Rob. Brandling, Knt.

Cuth. Blont

ditto

4 and 5—Bertram Anderson

Rob. Lewen

ditto

Queen Elizabeth.

1—Cuth. Blount

Rob. Lewen

ditto

5—Rob. Brandling, Knt.

Barth. Anderson

ditto

13—Will. Cart

Will. Jennison

ditto

14—Will. Selby

Will. Jennison

ditto

27—Henry Anderson

Will. Jennison, Alderman

ditto

28—Hen. Anderson

Edw. Lewen, Aldermen

ditto

31—Hen. Anderson

Hen. Mitford, Aldermen

ditto

35—Hen. Anderson

Edw. Lewen, Aldermen

ditto

39—Henry Mitford

ditto

43—Will. Jennison

Geo. Selby, Aldermen

ditto

King James I.

1—Geo. Selby

Henry Chipenham, Esq

ditto

12—Hen. Anderson, Knt.

ditto

18—Fra. Anderson, Knt.

Tho. Riddell, Knt.

ditto

21—Hen. Anderson, Knt.

Pet. Liddel, Knt.

ditto

King Charles I.

1—Hen. Anderson, Knt.

Tho. Liddel, Knt.

ditto

1—Hen. Anderson, Knt.

Peter Liddel, Knt.

ditto

3—Tho. Riddel, Knt.

Peter Riddel, Knt.

ditto

15—Peter Liddel, Knt.

Tho. Liddel, Esq

ditto

16—Hen. Anderson, Knt.[*]

John Blackston, Esq [†]

ditto

Oliver Cromwell, Usurper, Convened a Parliament called the Little Parliament, 1653, but no representatives for any cities or boroughs, except London, were returned.

3 Sep. 1654—Arthur Hasilrig, Bart.

17 Sep. 1656—Walter Strickland, Esq

Richard Cromwell, Usurper.

27 Jan. 1658—Mark Shaftoe.

Tho. Lilburne, Esq

The Convention Parliament.

25 Apr. 1660— Franc. Anderson, Knt. — Rob. Ellison, Knt.—(Qry J. Marley.)

King Charles II.

13—Franc. Anderson, Knt.—J. Marley, Knt. Qry—Wm Blackett, Knt.

Westminster

31—Fran. Anderson, Knt.

Will. Blackett, Knt. and Bart.

ditto

31—Ra. Carr, Knt.

Nath. Johnson, Esq or Sir W. Blackett, Bart.

ditto

32—Ra. Carr, Knt.

Nath. Johnson, Knt.

Oxon

King James II.

1—Nath. Johnson, Knt.

Will. Blackett, Bart.

Westminster

The Convention Parliament.

22 Jan. 1688—Ra. Carr, Knt.

Will. Blackett, Bart.

ditto

William and Mary.

2—Ra. Carr, Knt.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

King William III.

7—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

10—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

12—Hen. Liddell, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

13—Hen. Liddell, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

Queen Anne.

1—Hen. Liddel, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

4—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

Hen. Liddel, Bart. in the room of Blackett, who died 29 Dec. 1705.

7—Hen. Liddel, Bart.

Will. Carr, Esq

ditto

9—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Wrightson, Esq

ditto

12—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Wrightson, Esq

ditto

King George I.

1—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Will. Wrightson, Esq

ditto

James Clavering, Esq petitioner.

7—Will. Blackett, Bart.

ditto

King George II.

1—Will. Blackett, Bart.

Nich. Fenwick, Esq

ditto

William Carr, Esq petitioner.[*]

7—Walter Calverly Blackett, Esq

Nich. Fenwick, Esq

ditto

14—Walter Calverly Blackett, Esq

Nich. Fenwick, Esq

ditto

Poll. May 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, and 19, 1741.

Candidates.

No. of voters.

Walter Calverly Blackett, Esq

1453

Nicholas Fenwick, Esq

1231

Matthew Ridley, Esq

1131

William Carr, Esq

683

Mr Ridley and Mr Carr petitioned, but Mr Carr died 16 May, 1742. Mr Ridley renewed his petition in the second session.

20—Walter Calverly Blackett, Esq

Matthew Ridley, Esq

Westminster

28—Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart.

Matthew Ridley, Esq

ditto

King George III.

1—Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart.

Matthew Ridley, Esq

Westminster

8—Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart.

Matthew Ridley, Esq

ditto

—Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart.

Matthew White Ridley, Bart.

ditto

Elected on Wednesday 19th Oct. 1774 Poll eight days.

Candidates.

No. of voters.

Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart.

1432

Matthew White Ridley, Bart.

1411

Constantine John Phipps, Esq

795

Thomas Delaval, Esq

677

About 2662 voters, being 233 less than in 1741.

On the death of Sir Walter Calverly Blackett, Bart. 1777.

Candidates.

No. of voters.

Sir John Trevelyan, Bart.

1163

Andrew Robinson Bowes, Esq

1068

About 2231 voters.

↵

*
Anno 6. Ed. 2.—A writ issued to the Sheriff of Northumberland, in usual form, Ad eligendum pro communitate comitat. ill. duos Milites & qualibet Civitate duos Cives, & quolibet Burgo duos Burgenses.—He made this return on the dorse thereof: Willus de Tindale vic Northumb. sic respondit. Quid hominestam Com. Northumb. quam villae Novi Castri super Tynam, multum timent, quod pax inter regna Angliae & Scotiae per quosdam Scotiae infringeretur, propter quod ipsi se elongare ad presens commodé non potuerant; Ideo praedicti nullos Milites seu Burgenses pro instanti parliamento curant mittere.
↵

†

In the 8th year of Edw. 2. the King issued forth another writ to the Sheriff of Northumberland, to elect two Knights, Citizens and Burgesses, for the commonalty of the county, and of every city and borough within it, on which the Sheriff indorsed this return: Istud Breve ostensum fuit in pleno Comitatu: ubi responsum fuit mihi. Quod omnes Milites de Balliva mea non sufficiunt ad defensionem Marchiae. Et mandatum fuit Ballivis Libertatis villae Novi Castri super Tinam, qui sic responderunt, quod omnes Burgenses villiae predictae vix sufficiunt ad defensionem villae ejusdem; Et ideo quo ad executionem istius Brevis, nihil actum est.

Prynne Br. Parl. rediviva 165.

The above table of Burgesses not agreeing with the several returns, implies that a peremptory writ had compelled an election.

↵

‡

Anno 1. Ed. 3.—A writ to elect two Knights for this county of Northumberland, and two Citizens and Burgesses, was directed to the Sheriff, who returned this answer to it.

Communitas Com. Northumb. sic respondet. Quod ipsi per inimicos. Scotiae adeo sunt destructi, quod non habent unde solvere expensae duobus Militibus proficissuris ad tractatum & consilium apud Linc. tenend.

Ballivi libertatis Novi Castri super Tinam, sic respondent. Quod ipsi tam oncrantur circa salvam custodiam villae praedict. quod nominem possunt de dicta villa carere, Ideo executio istius brevis ad praesens fieri non potest.

Prynne, p. 165.

↵

*

This return was made by the Sheriff of Newcastle by indenture, being the first on record after the appointment of that officer.

Vide Prynne, p. 282.

↵

*

Anderson expelled for non-attendance. Rob. Ellison of Hebburne, Esq in the place of Warmouth, Esq not permitted to fit.

Hollis's Memoirs.

↵

†
Signed the warrant to behead the King
↵

*
1727 William Carr, Esq lodged his petition in time, but nothing was done therein till after Sir William Blackett's death, 29 Sept. 1728, and then the petition being depending, Carr was heard upon his petition, and having disqualified above 600 of Sir William's votes for bribery, was voted to be duly elected, no opposition being made against him.
↵

*
This was to enlarge and render more commodious the access to the bridge.
↵

†

A correct table of the Mayors and Sheriffs is given in Bourne's work: I will only add the succession since the time of that publication.

The last named by the above author.

Mayors.

Sheriffs.

1735—Walter Blackett

John Wilkinson

1736—Nicholas Fenwick

Matthew Bell

1737—William Carre

Jonathan Sorsbie

1738—Nathaniel Clayton

William Greenwell

1739—Cuthbert Fenwick

Cuthbert Collingwood

1741—Edward Collingwood

Ra. Sowerbye

1741—Robert Sorsbie

John Ord

1742—John Simpson

William Peareth

1743—Ra. Sowerbye

George Colepitts

1744—John Ord; in his room Matthew Ridley

Aubone Surtees

1745—Cuthbert Smith

Henry Partis

1746—Nicholas Fenwick

Henry Eden

1747—Nicholas Fenwick re-elected

Wiliam Watson

1748—Walter Blackett

John Vanholt

1749—Robert Sorsbie

Robert Heron

1750—Ralph Sowerbye

William Clayton

1751—Matthew Ridley

Matthew Scaife

1752—Henry Partis

Francis Rudston

1753—Henry Eden

John Harrison

1754—Cuthbert Smith

William Rowell

1755—William Clayton

William Harbottle

1756—Sir Walter Blackett, Bart.

John Erasmus Blackett

1757—Matthew Bell

John Scurfield

1758—Ra. Sowerbye

Edward Mosley

1759—Matthew Ridley

Matthew Stephenson

1760—Henry Partis

John Baker

1761—Aubone Surtees

Fletcher Partis

1762—Cuthbert Smith

Hugh Hornby

1763—William Clayton

Francis Forster

1764—Sir Walter Blackett, Bart.

Thomas Blackett

1765—John Erasmus Blackett

Charles Atkinson

1766—Matthew Scaife

John Hedley

1767—Edward Mosley

Richard Lacy

1768—John Baker

William Coulson

1769—Francis Forster

William Reed

1770—Aubone Surtees

James Liddell

1771—Sir W. Calverly Blackett, Bart.

Christ. Wilkinson

1772—John Erasmus Blackettt

James Rudman

1773—Matthew Scaife Obt. 16 Jan. 1774, Edw. Mosley elected.

Wm Yielder

1774—Sir M. White Ridley, Bart.

Francis Johnson

1775—Charles Atkinson

William Cramlington

1776—John Baker

James Tho. Lorrain

1777—John Hedley

Robert Clayton

↵

*
The preamble of the act sets forth "That this Bishoprick being then void of a Prelate, the gift thereof was in the King's pleasure, and the compass of it being so large as to extend itself into several shires far distant, it could not be sufficiently served by one Bishop; and since the King by his godly disposition was desirous to have God's holy word preached in those parts, which were wild and barbarous for lack of good preaching and good searching; therefor he intendeth to have two good Bishopricks for that diocese; the one at Durham, which should have 2000 marks yearly revenue, and another at Newcastle with 1000; and also found a cathedral church at the latter place, with a Deanery and Chapter, out of the revenues of the said Bishoprick; therefore the Bishoprick of Durham is utterly extinguished and dissolved, and authority given for letters patents to erect the two new Bishopricks, together with a Deanery and Chapter at Newcastle, with a proviso that the rights of the Deanery, Chapter, and Cathedral of Durham should suffer nothing by this act."
↵

†
The preamble sets forth, "That certain ambitious persons taking advantage of the late King's minority, made an interest, by sinister practice, to procure the dissolution of the Bishoprick; that it was done out of mercenary views, to enrich themselves and their friends, by seizing the lands of the See, rather than upon just occasion or godly zeal; that Tunstall Bishop of Durham was deprived upon unjust furmises and false accusations, and that the process against him was foul and illegal; that upon a full examination of the matter by the Queen's commissioners, the sentence of deprivation was declared void, as may be seen at large by an authentic instrument; that the Queen had new founded the Bishoprick by her letters patents, and restored all the lands in her possession. But that neither the sentence of deprivation, nor the Queen's letters patents were of sufficient force to recover the honours, lands, &c. to the See of Durham; therefore to restore the Bishoprick to its former interest, privileges, and revenues, the two dissolution statutes of the last reign are hereby repealed."
↵

*

In a note, Bourne says by several records it appears, that it has been customary to levy fines in this court, p. 192.

Recorders of Newcastle.

Sir Thomas Tempest, Knt.

1536

John Savil, Esq Baron of the Exchequer

1599

named in the charter.

Thomas Riddel, Knt.

1639

v. Rushworth.

Robert Shaftoe, Knt.

1660

John Cuthbert, Esq Serjeant at Law

1709

William Davison of Beamish, Esq Pro Tempore.

resigned.

John Isaacson, Esq

1725

Edward Collingwood, Esq

1737

resigned 1739.

William Cuthbert, Esq

1739

Christopher Fawcett, Esq

1746

removed.

Edward Collingwood, Esq

1753

resigned on account of health.

Christopher Fawcett, Esq re-elected 6 Dec.

1769

↵

*

The proclamation used on these occasions is as follows:

"The Right Worshipful * * * Mayor of the town and county of Newcastle upon Tyne, and his Worshipful Brethren; the Aldermen of this Corporation, streightly charge and command, on behalf of our Sovereign Lord the King, that all manner of persons, of whatsoever estate, degree, or condition they be, having recourse to this fair, keep the peace of our said Sovereign Lord the King.

That no manner of persons make any congregations, conventicles, or affrays, by which the said peace may be broken or disturbed, upon pain of imprisonment, and fine to be made, after the discretion of the Mayor and Aldermen.

Also, that all manner of sellers of wine or beer sell by measure sealed, as by gallon, pottle, quart, pint, &c. upon pain that will fail thereof.

And that no person sell any bread, but if it keep the assize, and that it be good and wholesome for man's body, upon pain that will fail thereof.

And that no manner of Cook, Pye-baker, nor Huckster, sell or put to sale, any manner of victual, but it may be good and wholesome for man's body, upon pain that will fail thereof.

And that no manner of persons buy or sell, but with true weights and measures, sealed according to the statute in that behalf made, upon pain that will fail thereof.

And that no manner of person or persons take upon him or them, within this fair, to make any manner of arrest, attachment, summons, or execution, but if it be done by the officers of this corporation thereunto assigned, upon pain that will fail thereof.

And that no manner of person or persons whatsoever, within the limits and bounds of this fair, presume to break the Lord's day, in selling, shewing, or offering to sale, or in buying, or offering to buy, any commodities whatsoever; or in fitting tipling or drinking in any Tavern, Inn, or Ale-house, Tipling-house, or Cook's-house, or in doing any other thing that may tend to the breach thereof, upon the pains and penalties contained in several acts of parliament, which will be severely inflicted upon the breakers thereof.

And finally, that what persons soever find themselves grieved, injured, or wronged, by any manner of person in this fair, that they come with their plaints before the Stewards in this fair, assigned to hear and determine pleas, and they will administer to all parties justice, according to the laws of this land, and the customs of this corporation." Wallis.

↵

†

The oath administred on taking up a freedom is as follows:

Ye shall swear that ye shall be good and true to our Sovereign Lord King George the Third, and to the heirs of our Sovereign Lord the King, obeisant and obedient ye shall be to the Mayor and Ministers of the Corporation, the franchises and customs thereof ye shall maintain, and this town keep harmless in that that you is.

Ye shall be contributary to all manner of charges within this town, as summons, watches, contributions, taxes, tallages, lot and scot, and to all other charges bearing your part as a freeman ought to do.

Ye shall colour no foreign goods under or in your name, whereby the King or this town might or may lose their customs or advantages.

Ye shall know no foreigner to buy or sell any merchandize with any other foreigner within this corporation or franchise thereof, but ye shall warn the Mayor thereof, or some ministring under him.

Ye shall implead or sue no freeman out of this town, whilst you may have right and law within the same town.

Ye shall take no apprentice but if he be free born, that is to say, no bondman's son, nor the child of an alien, and for no less term than for seven years, without fraud or deceit, and within the first year ye shall cause him to be enrolled, or else pay such fine as shall reasonably be imposed upon you for omitting the same: and after his term's end, within convenient time, (being required) ye shall make him free of the corporation, if he have well and truly served you. Ye shall also keep the King's peace in your own person.

Ye shall know no gatherings, conventicles, nor conspiracies against the King's peace, but ye shall warn the Mayor thereof, or let it to your power.

All these points and articles ye shall well and truly keep, according to the laws and customs of this corporation, to your power. So God you help. Wallis.

↵

*

Great disputes have arose touching the time when coals were first used in this island.

Our Antiquaries have conjectured that the Romans knew how to win them and their use; yet in the discovery of their hippocausts, and of the vaults where the remains of sacrifice have been found, it is not asserted by any that the remains of any coal fires have been discovered.

Matthew Paris mentions Carbo Marinus.

In the 1st year of the reign of King Edward I. mention is made de Carbonibus Maritimis, and their measure.

In the 31st year of that reign, a complaint was made of the public nuisance the burning of coal was in the city and suburbs of London, by corrupting the air by the stink and smoke, and a proclamation was issued to prohibit its use; and afterwards a Commission of Oyer to punish those who used it, in defiance of the proclamation.

Pryn's Animadvers. Coke's Institutes, p. 182.

By a charter of 23 King Henry III. A. D. 1239, licence was given to win coal in the Castle Field and Forth.

In the 9th of King Henry V. 1421, a duty of two-pence a chaldron being paid to the King, the burthen of keels was limited by statute to 20 chaldron, and the keels were directed to be sealed by the King's officers, to prevent frauds in the duty. St. 9 K. Hen. 5. cha. 10.

In a charter of the 8th of King Henry IV. De privilegijs & Libert. Epi Dun. A charter of the 7th of King Richard III. is recited De Carbonib. & aliis Merchandizis vendendis.

Queen Elizabeth granted a charter to the Fraternity called Free Hostmen for the vending of Coals, reserving a duty of 12d a chaldron.

By the stat. 30. King Charles II. Commissioners are appointed for regulating the duties on coals, &c.

The quantity of a Ten of coals is uncertain, and not always the same, but commonly 16 Newcastle chaldrons make a ten. Two keels also make a ten, and 11 waggons a keel. Each waggon contains 19 bolls and upwards, at 36 gallons to a boll, and 9 bolls or thereabouts go to a fother, and three fothers and a quarter make a chaldron; 21 corves to a score, and 55 fother make a ten.

A square yard of solid coal contains eight bolls.

An acre of ground contains 4840 square yards of solid coal, which is near equal to 68 tens, at 16 chaldrons to a ten, which is near equal to 1088 chaldrons of coals.

Three square yards and a quarter go to a chalder.

Waggon ways were first used in this neighbourhood soon after the revolution, by Mr Allan of Flatts, in the county of Durham, and on the Tyne by Charles Montague, Esq at Stella.

↵

*
A manuscript note in the margin of Bourne's History of Newcastle, in Fisher's Circulating Library, p. 159.
↵

†

The great export of this place is coal, for which it has been noted for some centuries. It is not exactly known at what time that species of fuel was first dug. It is probable that it was not very early in general use. That the Romans sometimes made use of it appears in our former volume, p. 55: but since wood was the fuel of their own country, and Britain was overrun with forests, it was not likely that they would pierce into the bowels of the earth for a less grateful kind. But it was exported to foreign parts long before it was in use in London; for London likewise had its neighbouring forests. We find that in 1234, King Henry III. confirms to the good people of Newcastle, the charter of his father King John, granting them the privilege of digging coals in the Castle Moor, and converting them to their own profit, in aid of their fee-farm rent of one hundred a year; which moor was afterwards granted to them in property by Edward III. The time of the first exportation of coals to London does not appear. In 1307, the 35th year of Edward I. they were considered in the capital as a nuisance; for on the repeated complaints of Prelates, Nobles, Commons of Parliament, and Inhabitants of London, against the stench and smoke of coals used by Brewers, Dyers, and other Artificers, the King issued out his proclamation against the use of them: which being disregarded, a commission of Oyer and Terminer was issued, to punish the disobedient with fines for the first offence, and for the second, by the destruction of their furnaces. In 1379, we find that their use was not only tolerated, but their consumption made beneficial to the state; for in that year a duty of six-pence per ten each quarter of a year was imposed on ships coming from Newcastle. In 1421, the trade became so important as to engage the regulations of government, and orders were given about the lengths of the keels, so that the quantity of coal might be ascertained. From that period the commerce advanced continually. Pennant, vol. II. p. 310.

Ships.

Tons.

Ch. Coals.

Cwt. Lead.

1772.

3585

689,090

330,200

123,370

Coast Trade.

363

49,124

21,690

30,064

Foreign Parts.

3948

738,214

351,890

153,434

↵

*
The exact amount of the revenue and allowance to the Mayor is not easily gained by a traveller; it must be got by particular confidence.
↵

†
Pennant.
↵

*

In Gaveston's baggage left behind him in his precipitate retreat were found many jewels, which belonged to the Crown, and of which an exact inventory was taken. They were restored to the King after Gaveston was beheaded. Rapin.

↵

*
Four Conservators were appointed for Northumberland.
↵

†
Walsingham.
↵

*
Mador Firm. Burg.
↵

*
Barns's Hist. King Edward III.
↵

†
Hakluyt's Eng. Voyages, vol. I. p. 119.
↵

‡
Brady's Continuation, p. 253.
↵

*

Scotti posuerunt castra prope Novum Castellum. In qua Villa Henricus Percy junior & Radulphus frater ejus milites erant. Henricus Percy opp. egressus captus est a Scottis, sed edita ante ingenti Scottorum caede. Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 253.

↵

†
Irish Compend. p. 126.
↵

*

A sermon was preached before him by the Scotch Metropolitan, who was so little touched with the presence of suffering Majesty, and had so little a portion of the grace of modesty, that after his discourse was ended he called for the 52d psalm, which begins, "Why dost thou, tyrant, boast thyself, thy wicked works to praise." His Majesty that moment stood up and called for the 56th psalm, which begins, "Have mercy, Lord, on me, I pray, for men would me devour. The congregation sung his Majesty's. Clarendon.

↵

†

The Statue of King Charles II. which stood over the magazine gate, was taken down, when the tower was removed to render the entrance into the town more open. The statue was re-exalted on the side of the Exchange facing the Fish-market. This circumstance so greatly irritated some inveterate enemy to the Stewart race, and fiery zealot to the house of Brunswick, that the following illnatured pasquinade was found posted upon a door immediately under the statue.

Sacred to the memory

Of CHARLES STUART,

Of a justly detested race, and a most detestable rascal

That ever disgraced the British throne;

Ungrateful to his friends,

Treacherous to his country,

To humanity a stranger;

He prostituted the best gifts of nature

(A strong bodily constitution,

And stronger mental parts)

To the most abominable lewdness and the worst of vices.

Tho' a barren wife

Left him no legitimate succeeding issue,

* * * * * * * * *

* * * * * * * * * * *

* * * * * * * *

* * * * * * * * * * * *

* * * * * * * * *

Curious spectator, whoever thou art,

Thankfully acknowledge thy obligations

To the Right Worshipful the M—r and M—tes

Of this once truly loyal,

But now, alas! licentious town;

That they have gratified the curious eye,

By placing this exquisite piece of art

In a more elevated and conspicuous situation,

In the front of their Hall of Justice.

If happily thou retainest in thy generous breast

The seeds of loyalty and affection

To the unfortunate Royal House of Stuart.

Reflect with gratitude

On the blessings thou enjoyest

From the happy and glorious restoration

Of Charles the Second.

If unhappily thy principles or thy passions

Torment thee with indignant rage

Receive instruction and profit

From the wretch whose memory thou abhorrest:

Or learn to moderate thy resentment or party zeal,

By the humiliating reflection,

That the heaviest oppressions,

The most cruel persecutions,

The vilest debaucheries

And most destructive vices,

May reign and spread with triumphant havock,

Under the mild connivance, mistaken confidence, and unmerited favour

Of a most gracious and virtuous sovereign;

As under the avowed auspices, the lewd example, and open encouragement

Of the most dissolute and abandoned tyrant.

Randal's Manuscripts.

↵

*
He came to the See 1249.
↵

†

The original superstructure of this bridge was probably of wood, like that over the Danube, and continued made with the same material for several centuries. Notice is taken of it in the reign of King Richard I. when Philip Poictiers, Bishop of Durham, gave licence to the Burgesses of Gateshead to give wood to whomsoever they pleased to be spent about the river Tyne; which is supposed to mean in the repairs of the bridge and quay on the part belonging to Durham; for one third belongs to the Bishop, and two to the town; so that after it was destroyed in 1248 by a furious fire, the Bishop and the town united in the expence of building the stone bridge, of which this calamity was the origin. The Prelate (Walter Kirkham) had the advantage in this; for, armed with spiritual powers, he issued out indulgences from all penances to every one that would assist, either with money or labour. The town also applied to other Bishops for their assistance in promoting so good a work, and they in consequence granted their indulgences; but then the Clergy of the North were directed by their Archdeacon, to prefer the indulgences; of their own Prelate to any other. In the end both parties succeeded, and the money raised was given to Laurentius, Master of the Bridge. Pennant, vol. 2. p. 315.

↵

‡

This part of the bridge was repaired by Thomas Ruthal, Bishop of Durham, famous in the reigns of King Henry VII. and VIII. not only for being the richest subject then in Britain, but for the unfortunate mistake he made in delivering the book of his own private affairs to the aspiring Cardinal Wolsey, instead of one he had wrote on the state of the kingdom by the desire of his Sovereign, whereby the Cardinal effected his ruin and stepped into his Bishoprick. Wallis.

↵

JESMOND,[*]

an ancient Hospital, with a chapel appertaining to it, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. King Edward VI. granted this place to the Corporation of Newcastle, who sold it to Sir Robert Brandling. The hospital is now used as a dwelling-house, and the chapel is converted into a stable.

There was a well at Jesmond, greatly resorted to by persons labouring under infirmities, for its salutary qualities. It had as many steps down to it as there are articles in the Creed. Many pilgrimages were made to Jesmond, to visit the shrine of the Virgin, and to partake of the miraculous virtues of the sanctified spring. The superstition of paying reverence to salubrious springs, seems to be derived from the Romans.

In the first year of the reign of King Henry VIII. a mob headed by several of the Aldermen and principal inhabitants of Newcastle, assembled here with intent to slay the Prior of Tinemouth. The cause of this outrage my author doth not mention.[*]

From the same authority it appears, that soon after Jesmond became the property of Mr Coulson, he enclosed the well, and converted it into a bath; but in a short time the water forsook the well, which alarmed the superstitious much. But whilst the cry against this profanation was warmest, the waters returned, and the miracle was washed away.

Notes

*
A corruption of Jesus-Mount.
↵

*
Bourne, notes, p. 82.
↵

ELSWICK

is about a mile west from Newcastle, the seat of John Hodgson, Esq formerly part of the possessions of the manastery of Tynemouth. Soon after the dissolution it came by purchase to the family of Jennisons, whose property it was for some generations. It is an old house, but has an excellent situation, commanding a fine prospect to the east and south. The eastern prospect comprehends, among other objects, Newcastle and Gateshead: the southern, the rich borders of Tyne, the vales of Lamesley, and the castles of Ravensworth and Lumley, in the county of Durham.

On the right hand of the road leading to Benwell is

FENHAM,

the seat of William Ord, Esq a handsome modern structure, commanding a distant view of Tyne below Newcastle, with all the beauties of its navigation, the scene being crowded with shipping mixing with villages and hamlets: the church and village of Jarrow are in view, and at a greater distance on the opposite side of the river, the village of Chirton: it is said in a clear day the ruins of Tynemouth are the terminating objects of this noble landskip. Fenham was anciently part of the possessions of the Knights Templars, and in the 18th of King Edward II. A. D. 1324, was by parliament granted to the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. On the dissolution in the 31st of King Henry VIII. A. D. 1540, the Prior died of grief.[*] It was for some time the estate of the Riddels of Swinburn Castle.

We advanced to

Notes

*

The Prior Sir William Weston died of grief. The Priory lands were annexed to the crown, except 600 marks per annum, given to four Knights and two Gentlemen for their valour; 100 marks to each, with a dwelling house for ever. Their names were Sir John Dudley, Sir Thomas Seimour, Sir Thomas Poinings, Sir Geo. Carew, Anthony Kingston, and Richard Cromwell.

Wallis.

↵

BENWELL,

one of the most delightful situations in the north of England, the estate of Andrew Robinson Stoney Bowes, Esq It was the possession of the Shaftoes [†] of the Bavington family [‡] for several generations, and anciently a member of the barony of Bolbeck. The present mansion-house is united with the ancient tower, and retains the name of Benwell Tower. The pleasure grounds are not extensive, but disposed in a good taste; commanding a view of the Tyne and its rich borders, with the island called the King's Meadows: the more distant prospect is graced with Axwell Park, the elegant mansion of Sir Thomas Clavering (of Payne's architecture) and the hanging woods of Gibside, where, towering above every other object, an obelisk is seen, on which stands a fine figure of liberty.[§]

Benwell was the Condercum of the Romans:[*] the distinct remains of the station appear on Benwell Hill. The observations made thereon and the course of the wall from Newcastle to Rutchester, by Mr Horsley and Mr Warburton, are to the following effect. No appearance of either of the Roman walls can be expected as far as the buildings of Newcastle extend; but as soon as they are well ended, some feint vestiges of both, or of what has belonged to them, begin to shew themselves: for just at the end of Westgate, on the south side of the highway, Hadrian's Ditch seems pretty visible; and near the Quarry House some feint marks of the Ditch and north Agger begin to appear, but chiefly of the latter; and this state of the Vallum extends to Benwell Fort. As to Severus's Wall, little or nothing relating to it can be discovered between the town and the Quarry House: some visible remains of a castellum are discoverable just behind the Quarry House, and the line of the wall appeared to go through the midst of the house. The castellum is conveniently placed for prospect, and is the only one that is visible between Newcastle and the next station: by the distance there should have been another, but it is quite demolished. From the Quarry House to Elswick Windmill, Severus's wall is difficult to trace; but from thence to the fort on Benwell Hill, the appearance of the ditch is frequently very distinct, and the track of wall (which keeps much upon the high road) pretty certain.

From the station at Newcastle (which is placed by these Antiquaries near the castle) to Benwell Hill, is near two miles and a furlong, and no inscriptions have been discovered in this space; at least none now remain, nor even the remembrance of any.

The situation of the station on Benwell Hill is high, and the prospect considerable: the ramparts are large and distinct, but the ditch scarce to be discerned. Hadrian's vallum seems to have fallen in with the south side of it, and Severus's wall strikes upon the east and west sides, so as to leave three chains to the north and six to the south; but there is no appearance of the wall and its ditch being continued through the fort, though Mr Gordon has so represented it. There are stones in the road that now crosses this fort, but these seem only to have been taken out of the ruins to repair the highway. This station falls in course to be Condercum, the name given in the Notitia to be the third in the series, where the Ala Prima Astorum was quartered.

From the station at Benwell Hill, Severus's wall and ditch, in going down to Denton, continue much in the same state as before; but Hadrian's work on this side begins to appear more conspicuous; both the walls pass to the north of the hill and village of Benwell; from Denton to the Chapel Houses, both the walls and their ditches are almost all the way visible and distinct: over-against West Denton Hall there seemed to be the visible remains of a castellum, and somewhat like the ruins of a Turret not very far from it.

Near the Chapel Houses, about a furlong south from Severus's wall, and less from Hadrian's, are somewhat like the ruins of a rampart: it is called the Castle Steads, the name usually given to those castella that are regularly placed along Severus's wall; but this (besides its being at some distance from the wall, which the others never are) appears to have been of a quite different form and dimensions; for it is about four chains long, with an interval in the middle, that looks like a gate, and so makes it appear very like the south rampart of a small fort: but if there have been ramparts on the other sides, no traces of them appear at present. The prospect here, especially to the south, is very considerable; perhaps it has been an exploratory tower belonging to Hadrian's work, and prior to Severus's, and so neglected in his time. The usual castellum belonging to Severus's wall, is about a furlong west from the Chapel Houses, and visible there; so that the other can neither be one of these, nor intended to supply the place of one. From the name Chapel Houses, one would expect to find some ruinous chapel there; and I should have suspected somewhat of these ruins to have been of that nature, if the name Castle Steads had not determined against it.

From Chapel Houses to Wallbottle both walls and ditches are pretty visible, and continue so to Newburn Dean: but on the descent from the Chapel Houses to Wallbottle, Hadrian's north Agger becomes very conspicuous, and holds so for the most part to Newburn Dean. Between Wallbottle and this Dean is a castellum still very visible; and from the Dean to Throcklow, Hadrian's vallum and ditch are discernible, but not very large, and Severus's wall not quite so plain.

Over-against Throcklow, in a convenient high place, there seems to be the ruins of another castellum; but near the village the vallum is very obscure. From Throcklow to Heddon on the Wall, Severus's wall and ditch are very conspicuous, and Hadrian's vallum and ditch near as visible. The north Agger is also discernible for part of the way, and near Heddon it is very considerable. Before we come to Heddon, there is on the north side of the wall, another place of the same nature with that at Chapel Houses, and called likewise Castle Steads. The remains are very confused, and as it is altogether on the north of the wall, and detached a little from it, it seems to be a castellum erected prior to the wall, and neglected after the building of it. The prospect from this place is very good, which makes it the more likely to have been of the exploratory kind. However there seems to have been an usual castellum in Severus's wall, very near to these ruins; which is a further proof, that the other has not been used after the wall was erected. It seems to have been twice as large as one of Severus's castella, and yet not large enough for a station. Three sides, the north, east, and west, may be traced out, but the other is entirely levelled.

Notes

†

- Robert Shaftoe of Little Barrington 10 Queen Elizabeth.

- Mark Shaftoe of Benwell,

Member of Parliament for Newcastle, A. D. 1659.

- Robert, High Sheriff of Northumberland 8 King William III. 1696.

- Robert, High Sheriff 4 King George I. 1718.

- Robert, High Sheriff 27 King George II. 1754.

Wallis.

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‡
Little Bavington.
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§

Besides the Antiquities found here, mentioned by Mr Horsley, the following are worthy notice.

‘A Roman Sudatory was discovered a few years ago, in a field east of the house, the pavement was not in chequer work or Mosaic, but in unequal irregular figures, red and white; a composition of Caluviva and brick, resembling a pebble marble. Of the true Musive or Mosaic, I have not heard of any yet being discovered in the Roman structures of this or the other stations with us; though I make no question but the Romans of quality had them here, as well as in the more southern stations of Britain. They are of great antiquity, invented by the luxurious Asiatics, the builders of Babylon, of Palmyra, of Persaepolis, of the famous Piramids of Memphis, the just wonders of the world. At Susa they had a royal banquet on a Lythostraton, composed of rich and curious stones. Esther Ch. I. At Jerusalem our Saviour had his sentence passed on him by Pilate, from a throne in a place called by way of eminence the Pavement. From Asia these Lythostrata passed into Greece, from Greece to Rome. ’ The first made at Rome was in the temple of Fortune, laid by Sylla 170 years before the christian aera. ‘From Rome they came to Britain, into the palaces of Princes, the state rooms and tents of Generals, the sacred temples, magnificent thermae, and other places of elegance and pleasure. The Balnaeum and Lithostraton, according to Varro, made a compleat and elegant villa. Baths and shady piazzas were first introduced here by Agricola. ’

‘Two millstones were found here, one of ragstone, the other factitious of potters work. A small golosum fictile, or drinking cup, of Roman pottery, and the neck and handle of a cruise of brown pottery unglazed.’ Wallis.

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*

In Mr Horsley's works the following Roman Antiquities found at this station are mentioned:

No. VII. Jovi Optimo Maximo Dolicheno, et Numinibus Augusti prosalute Imperatoris Caesaris Titi Aelii Hadriani Augusti Pii patris patriae et legionis secundae Augustae Marcus Liburnius Fronto Centurio Legionis ejusdem votum solvit libens merito.

Between Cousins House and Benwell I could not meet with any Roman inscriptions or sculptures. I never heard of any found at Newcastle; nor is this much to be wondered at, considering how large a town it has long been, and how easy it is to suppose that all that was Roman has been lost some ages ago amongst such numerous buildings: I therefore proceed to the inscriptions at Benwell. There are three belonging to this fort, of which this and the next have been published only (I think) by Mr Gordon: That part of the two first lines, which is lost in the break of the stone, is so supplied by Mr Gordon, as if the whole had been Jovi Optimo Maximo et numinibus, &c. and as if the words Optimo Maximo had been wrote at large so as to fill up the whole vacancy: but these words are seldom found at length upon an altar, and will by no means consist with the letters HENO, which are very plain and distinct. The reading I have given seems to answer as to the letters, and to fill up the space with the greatest exactness; and it will be hard to find another word into which the letters HENO will enter, nor is there any occasion to search for any other, since Jupiter Dolichenus had not only several altars dedicated to him in other places, but one or two likewise in Britain. Caesar, in the short Natural History he gives of Britain, tells us, "The inland countries afford tin, and the maritime iron, tho' no great plenty of it." This passage of Caesar may give us some light into the reason of these altars being dedicated to Jupiter Dolichenus, when compared with another inscription to the same deity, published by Reinesius, and referred to in Camden: The inscription is this, Jovi Optimo Maximo Dolycheno ubi Ferrum nacitur, Sempronius Rectus Cent. Frumentarius, D. D. Reinesius thinks Jupiter had this name given him from 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, a town of Epirus or Macedonia, which country Strabo represents as rugged and mountainous, and productive of metals, among which Reinesius supposes there was iron. If this was the case, though Strabo I think does not mention iron, the words ubi serrum nascitur may seem to intimate that Jupiter Dolichenus had some particular concern in iron mines, and so might well be applied to for assistance and conduct by those who entertained hopes of making beneficial discoveries in that way; now Benwell is not many miles from the sea, and this country abounds with mines of coal that bring yearly a very large sum of money into it; and the Romans, from Caesar's account and other circumstances, might expect to find iron mines in these parts, and upon that occasion pay their devotion to Jupiter Dolichenus. Montsaucon has given us one image of this deity, found at Marseilles, clad in armour, and standing upon a bull, which seems to agree very well with this account; but another image represents him in a rustic habit, with an ox under him; and Stephanus, who calls him 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, derives his name from Dolochene, a city of Cammagene, in Asia, which Strabo describes as a fruitful country, well planted with trees and vines; it is not unlikely therefore he might be worshipped at both these places, and that the words in Reinesius's inscription ubi Ferrum nascitur might be designed as descriptive of the Graecian Deity: it may not be improper to remark, that there is a coalry not far from Benwell, a part of which is judged by those that are best skilled in such affairs to have been wrought by the Romans. The Legio Secunda Augusta, for whose preservation, together with that of the Emperor, this altar was erected, must at this time have been upon the wall in Northumberland, which very probably (if Pausanius's account be true) might be after they had defeated the Brigantes, and taken from them a great part of their land.

The words which I read Centurio Legionis ejusdem, are by Mr Gordon read legatus ejusdem, which mistake he seems to have been led into by not observing the centurial mark; so that here is no foundation to suppose a new Propraetor or Lieutenant, M. Liburnius Fronte, from this inscription: this curious altar has on one side the sacrificing knife and ax, on the other side both the Patera and Praeferi•ulum. This and the following were in the collection of Robert Shaft•, Esq

No. VIII. Centurio Legionis vicestmae valentis victricis, votum solvil libens merito.

This is an imperfect inscription, upon the lower part of a broken altar, found in the same place with the preceding; and as that was erected by a centurion of the second Legion called Augusta, so this by another such officer of the twentieth Legion called Valens Victri•: the mark for the Centurion is very plain and distinct upon the stone, though omitted by Mr Gordon; nor do I remember an instance in Britain of an altar erected by a whole Legion, though it was frequently done by a Cohort. My reason for reading Valens Victrix and not Valeria or Valeriana I have given before.

No. IX. Victoria August•r•• Nostrorum secit Nepot Softi Senecionis consulis Felix alae primae Asterum Praefectus.

I first discovered this inscription on the side wall of a house at East Denton, which village stands upon the wall, about a quarter of a mile west from Benw•ll Fort. The house was afterwards demolished, and this stone thrown among the dirt and rubbish: but being again recovered, by a curious gentleman of my acquaintance, is now in my possession. Tho' the word secit, as synonimous with p•sant, is frequently applied to an altar or monument, and therefore does not certainly prove that the legion was at this time employed in building the wall, or the valla•; yet as no person is named in the inscription, to whose honour this monement was erected, the word fecit may possibly refer to some other work than purely setting up such a stone, and to none more likely than building that part of the wall; but this I have considered in its proper place. It is somewhat rare and curious, to have the name of the legion and the number of the cohort set down both together, so distinctly as here. There are some other parallel instances of legionary cohorts in Britain, but not very many. In a memorandum left by the late Dr W••dward •f Cre••a•n•e, this stone is s••d to have been found on the Roman Wall near Newcastle upon Tyre and to have been sent to him by Dr Ca. of that town. The monument correspondents so exact▪ to the description I had from an eye-witness of one found at Benwell Fo•t, and preferred for some ••re at Benwell •••se, that there can remain no doubt but it must be the very ••me. I am told it was first presented by the present Mr Shasto's grandmother, during the mi•or•y of the late Mr Shafto at Benwell, to the late Dr Ca•, a learned and curious Physician of Newcastle, by whom it was transmitted to London since the death of Dr Woodwa••, and the •••posal of h•s co••es•in• in which I saw it, it is now in the possession of Mr West. The distinct mention ma•e 〈◊〉 th•s monument of the Ala prima Astorum renders it highly curious and valuable, as it c•nfr••• the Roman town and fort upon the wall at Benwell ••• to be the ancient Cond•rcu•, the third station per ••neam Val•i, where according to the Notitia this Ala was in garrison. I was agreeably surprized at the sight of it, because it is a further confirmation of the scheme I had advanced concerning these stations: I was also pleased to discover the small o at the end of the last line, which is sufficiently distinct and certain, and proves the word to be Astorum not Asturum, in which it agrees with the Notitia. That part of the stone which is near the M in the bordering is imperfect and broken. I make no doubt but the letters RV have been before the M, and that it is to be read Astorum: the PRA on the other side can be nothing else but Praefectus: there is no appearance left of any cross strokes of the E after Ala in the last line; but as these may have been worn out, I am of opinion that it was at first ALAE, and that the monument was set up by Felix the commander of this Ala: it seems plainly to have been erected Victoriae Augustorum, for the word Victoriae is compleat and distinct; the upper parts of the two G G are yet visible; and Dr Woodward had put a V before them in his copy, though I could not discern any vestige of it on the stone: I suppose a stroke or two in the next letters are now effaced, and that they were originally a double N conjoined for nostrorum; and whosoever considers the frequent variation of letters we often meet with in the same monument, won't think it strange that the first stroke is more oblique here than in one or two instances of the same letter afterwards the letters F E at the end of this line must in all probability stand for the word Fecit. If my reading be allowed, the monument must have been erected by Felix, who was the grandson of Socius Senecio the consul, and the commander of the first wing of the Asti. Mr Ward chuses to read the third and fourth lines thus: Numerius Sosius Senecio Nepos Consulis Felix. The letter N put for a praenomen signifies Numerius, according to Diomedes. Sosius was one of the consuls names, who is called G. Sosius Senecio in the Fasti Consulares, and N for Nepos is very common upon inscriptions: as to the situation of the words Nepos Consulis, 'tis usual in inscriptions to insert such words as express any relation or other circumstance of those who erect them, before the last name: but N S in Goltzins is made to stand for Numerius, as well as N alone. This being admitted, we may read Numerius Senecio Nepos Consulis Felix: but I much incline to the reading that I have given, which occurred to me at the first: 'tis evident that no regard is had in this inscription to the usual order of the words in others; there seems rather to be an affected singularity as to this matter. Senecio, who is mentioned in an inscription or two found at Brugh in Richmondshire, (the originals of which are now lost was probably of the same family, though rather too late to be the same person with him who is described in this monument, for he (as appears from these inscriptions I have referred to) lived under the reign of Commodus, and continued at least till the joint reign of Severus and Caracalla, is later than a grandson of Sosius Senecio the consul can well be supposed to have lived; for Sosius Senecio was the fourth and last time consul in conjunction with Licinius Sura in the year 107, under the reign of Trojan, from whence to the beginning of the joint reign of Severus and Caracalla is little less than a century; for the same reason it is not so probable that the two Emperors here intended are Severus and Caracalla, but rather Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, who, as well as the others, carried on a war with success against the Britons, and Calpurnius Agricola was their Legate, whose name we meet with in some inscriptions found near the Roman wall, and as he began to reign jointly above thirty years before the other two, that time suits better than the other: so that upon the whole I take this monument to have been erected to the honour of the Emperors Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, upon occasion of some victory they had gained over the northern Britons by Calpurnius Agricola their Legate, in which this Felix Senecio had the command of the first wing of the Asti. The Asti, according to Pancirollus, were the inhabitants of the Asta, a colony in Ligu•ia. Asta is mentioned by Pliny and others; no doubt they were distinct from the Astures, a people of Spain. The four inscriptions which follow are on stones built up in the walls of houses in the village of Benwell.

No. IX. Dis Manibus Aurelii clae primae Astorum.

This is a funeral monument, but imperfect, and has been much abused. I have given the best reading of it I could: it is now built up in the front of Mrs Lion's house near the door. There appears something like a stop after the A in the last line; but yet I incline to read it alae primae, and most probably Astorum, for this was the only ala primae stationed on the principal line of the wall. This seems to be of the lower Empire, and more strongly proves this fort to be the ancient Condercum.

No. IX. Centuria Peregtini. This of Peregrinus is now built up in the fore wall of the house of William Gill.

No. IX. Legionus secundae Augustae cohors decima.

This is very useful and curious, though it contains only the name of the Legio secunda Augusta, and the number of the Cohort, namely, the tenth, for this farther confirms what I had from other reasons and inscriptions conjectured before, that this Legion was employed on the east end of the wall, and this Cohort of that Legion in particular: the Sea Goat and Pegasus at the top are not uncommon, and seem to denote the maritime situation of the country on the one hand, and the swiftness of the Roman victory on the other. There is a branch in the upper part of the stone which was mistaken by a very learned Antiquary for a Roman Vexillum, and we have a Roman Vexillum supported by a Pegasus and a Sea Goat at Little Chesters on the wall. This stone is now in the fore wall of the house of Joseph Wallis, near the door.

No. IX. Centuria Arrii.

This of Arrius is in the back wall of the house of Matthew Garret; both the stone and letters are very coarse. Arrius is a Roman name. Horace has it once and again.

No. IX. Centuria Herenniani.

This stone was found near the highway side by Denton, and is now in my own possession. Herennius Herennianus occurs in a remarkable inscription found in Spain, and published in the Transactions. The name on this stone is plainly Herrennianus.

This station on Benwell Hill has furnished a good many inscriptions; but I remember not to have seen or heard of any Roman coins found here, nor can I say in the general that Roman coins are so frequent in the stations on the wall as in some other places; but the fine urn which they now preserve in the Library at Durham was found at this place. The cut of the letters in the inscriptions belonging to Benwell is tolerably good, and the inscriptions themselves are not so much perplexed with ligatures of letters, as those of later dates often are, though these are not wholly free from them. But the most curious inscriptions have been removed out of this county: many were carried off by Sir Robert Cotton, several of which are yet remaining at Connington near Stilton in Hantingdonshire; but they also are going to ruin, for the summer-house where they were carefully placed by Sir Robert being now uncovered, and in a ruinous state, the stones and inscriptions have already suffered very much.

Mr Warburton had made the largest collection, who was at a great deal of pains and expence to collect the most curious Roman stones he could find in this county, but he unhappily broke many of them in order to make them more portable, and so carried off only that part of the stone which had the inscription; by this means it has happened that many of the stones collected by him are only faces of altars, and in several instances the inscriptions themselves have suffered damage by this unhappy frugality. What this gentleman had collected together at Hexham have since been removed to the Library at Durham.

Mr Warburton in his Vallum Romanum justifies himself against this charge in the following manner: ‘The editor, in vindication of himself from this unjust accusation of a parsimonious incuriosity, denies the charge in every part; and as a proof of the truth thereof refers himself to the draughts of the altars he discovered, as the same are represented in the plates. That the Romans frequently broke and defaced altars on particular occasions is evident, and is usually observed to have been practised on Revolutions in the Empire, or upon a persons falling into disgrace, who is mentioned in the inscription.’

Observations on the inscriptions near Walbottle.

The three following are at a place upon the wall called Walbottle.

No. X. Centuria Mucieni Posuit.

This is Centurial, and is now in the sore wall of a cow-house in this village: it contains nothing distinct but the character and name of the Centurion.

No. XI. Cohors octava Posuit: This contains only the number of the Cohort; I believe there never has been any thing more inscribed on it, and am apt to think it was the eighth Cohort of the Legio secunda Augusta, the same as that before in the inscription at East Denton.

No. XII. The inscriptions contained under this number are only some obscure and doubtful remains of numeral letters. The two first, viz. V and IX have most probably been 8 and 9, denoting the numbers of the Cohorts; they are in the corner of the stone wall, through which a small brook passes, a little west from the town; and of the same sort with these are the rest, but placed in several parts of the inside of the wall which incloses the field. There were two or three more of the same sort and size, with No. I upon them, and another also with No. V, besides those which I have described.

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HEDDON,

commonly called Heddon on the Wall, was part of the barony of Hugh de Bolbeck, who gave the appropriation and advowson of the church here to the Abbey of Blanchland.

In Nov. 1752, the workmen employed in making the military road which leads from Carlisle, found a great number of curious Roman coins and medals in the ruins of the Roman wall here. They had been deposited in wood boxes, which were almost decayed: several of the medals were fresh and fair, as if but newly struck: some of them are of silver, but most part of copper and mixt metal. They are thought to be as valuable a collection as has been discovered for some centuries past.

Near Heddon on the Wall somewhat appears like Severus's military way, pretty near to his wall; but it is rather probable this appearance is nothing but the stones and ruins of the wall, and that the military ways have here coincided, because the north Agger is so large, though in a ploughed field: not far from this place there have been some remarkable Tumuli. The village Heddon Lawes, which stands upon a hill, has no doubt had its name from such Tumuli. There is yet remaining one very great heap of stones, besides other Tumuli, and a remarkable one farther to the east, called Dewly Lawe, with a smaller one near it. The whole hill is like the ruins of a quarry, but curious and worth the seeing. If regard be had to the distance of 12 miles from the sea, Heddon on the Wall would seem to be Bede's VILLA AD MURUM, and not either Wall's End or Wall Town.

From Heddon to Rutchester, both the walls and their ditches are distinct; and a little before we come to Rutchester, Hadrian's north Agger is distinct. Here is another castellum, the remains of which are very visible, and an oval fort, (though it seems not to be Roman) near it. The whole distance between the station at Benwell Hill and this at Rutchester, is six measured miles and three quarters; in this space there are six visible castella, in a series without interruption, and the constant exact measure between them is, six furlongs and three quarters; and the whole distance between the two stations, six measured miles and three quarters: the two castella that have been next the fort at Benwell Hill, have no visible remains.

We passed in view of Denton Hall, a seat of the ancient family of Montagues, to

NEWBURN,

a borough given by King John to Robert son of Roger de Clavering, Baron of Warkworth. John the last Lord Clavering having granted the reversion of it to the Crown, in the 6th year of the reign of King Edward I. it was given to Henry Lord Percy by King Edward III in the second year of his reign, and is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland. The village is chiefly inhabited by Miners. The impropriation and advowson of the church of Newburn was given by King Henry I. together with St. Nicholas in Newcastle, to the Church and Canons of St. Mary in Carlisle. The church is in the form of a cross, having a tower. Here is a tomb of the Delaval family.[*]

Newburn was a place of consequence and note preceding the conquest. Copsi who was created Earl of Northumberland by King William, was put to death here. Osulf the preceding Governor, expelled by the Conqueror to give place to Copsi, being forced into the woods and deserts, lay concealed till he had collected a few hardy troops; with these he besieged Copsi, and at length obliged him to take refuge in the church. Osulf disregarding all veneration for things sacred, when put in competition with his desperate fortune and revenge, set fire to the holy pile; and as Copsi endeavoured to shun the flames, he was seized, and his head severed on the spot.

At this village, on the 28th of August, 16 King Charles I. A. D. 1640, Lord Conway with an army of 3000 foot and 1500 horse, opposed the passage of the Scots over the river Tyne, led by Lesley.[*] The Scots with great intrepidity passed the river, breast deep, in the face of the English army, who were drawn up on the opposite banks. Three hundred Scotch horse were obliged to repass the river, being opposed by a body of foot covered by a breast-work; but Lesley getting nine pieces of cannon [*] to play upon the English lines, a panic seized the whole line of infantry, they threw down their arms and fled with the utmost precipitation, leaving the horse under Commissary General Wilmot, accompanied by many Gentlemen of rank, exposed to the enemy's artillery and the united force of the whole body of Scots: till overpowered by numbers, and having sustained a loss of 300 men and upwards, they were obliged to retreat. The foot were soon ashamed of their flight, wishing to repair their disgrace, and revenge it on a foe, who hardly credited their own success; but the timid General uninfluenced by the same sense of honour, never afterwards turned his face to the enemy.[†] Lord Clarendon calls this defeat, an irreparable rout. The General's conduct was inquired into on his coming to York, where he told the story of his defeat to the King: he was accused of cowardice and treachery, and though he used his utmost art to put a gloss upon his conduct, yet the strongest shew of conscious guilt was discoverable in his manners, and the confusion of his language and countenance.[*]

I now repassed the Tyne, and entered into the Bishopric of Durham.

Having compleated my view of each remarkable place within this extensive and opulent county, I shall proceed, by way of compendium of the cursory remarks which I made in each particular district, to shew the importance of Northumberland in a collected and clear point of view.

By a geographical table lately published, it appears that the area of Northumberland contains 131,000 acres, and is 155 miles in circumference; having 3 boroughs, 13 market towns, 460 parishes, 22,741 dwelling-houses, 113,705 inhabitants; sends 8 Members to Parliament, and pays in proportion to the land-tax 5. It is divided into 7 wards; has 4 chief rivers, Tyne, Tweed, Alne, and Coquet; is within the diocese of Durham, and gives a Ducal title. Newcastles lies in lat. 55:0, whose distance and bearing from London in measured miles is 278½ N. W.

The revenues of the church in this county, exclusive of Newcastle and Hexhamshire, exceed 11,000l. a year.

Northumberland sends two Knights of the Shire to Parliament.[†] The first upon record were summoned in the 26th year of the reign of King Edward I. A Sheriff was appointed in the year of our Lord 1154, in the first year of the reign of King Henry II.[*]

The lands produce fine corn. On the banks of Tweed excellent cattle are bred, of which some have come to the weight of 160 stone (14lb. to the stone): the ordinary cattle in the interior parts of the country, are of a middle size and mixed breed, between Dutch and Scotch, which are very beautiful, and yield abundance of milk: smaller cattle, of the Highland kind, are bred in the mountainous parts. The hills afford fine sheep walks, and the flocks are numerous: in some parts of the county, of late years, they have been much improved, by the introduction of Leicestershire and Lincolnshire sheep; by which cross the fleeces are become much better, and the sheep feed to an improved weight. Few of the large sheep are kept in this county.

Improved husbandry makes a rapid progress, and enclosures take place of the wide extended tracts, where many Herdsmen were heretofore necessarily employed to keep the cattle and flocks within their bounds.

For so large a tract of land, there are few considerable woods of timber trees, and planting seems to proceed but languidly; except in the vale of Whittingham and some other tracts, where a laudable example has been given.

The rivers abound with salmon and trout, and the coasts with cod, ling, turbot, soles, place, whitings, haddocks, crabs, lobsters, muscles, and cockles.

The great staple of Northumberland is coal. By the following tables, the importance of this county to the state at large will appear, in its exports and numbers of ships. From that concise plan, the produce is immediately deduced, in all its articles of trade. By the imports is shewn how few foreign articles are wanted to contribute to the pleasures and luxuries of life, other than those produced within its own limits.

Exports at Berwick in the year 1776.

To foreign parts: Corn 2500 qrs. Salmon 700 barrels

In the coast trade: Wheat 13,000 qrs. Oats 19,000 qrs. Salmon 50,000 kits Eggs 5000 chests, each containing 1700. Tallow Candles 230 cwt.

ALEMOUTH Exports chiefly Corn shipped for Scotland and the London market.

CAMMAS WATER. Exports: Corn sent coastwise—Grindstones to foreign parts 1400 chald.

BLYTH. Exports: Coals 14,000 chald. Salt 250 ton.

HARTLEY HAVEN.

Exports: Coals 18,000 chald. Bottles 70,000 doz. Salt 300 ton. Copperas 100 ton.

NEWCASTLE Exports in the Year 1776.

Countries and Islands.

No. of Ships

Tonnage.

Species of Merchandise.

Quantity in

Brit. Bottoms

Foreign Bot.

Africa

British 1

Lead Shot

5 c. 0 qr.

50

White Glass

18 1

Green Glass

16 0

Bar Iron

160 0

Wrought Iron

10 0

Rice

6 0

Gunpowder

900lb.

Haberdashery

896

Ale

195 gall.

Paper

60 reams

Earthen Ware

500 pieces

Muskets

100

Gunflints

10,000

Looking-Glasses

144

Alderney

British 1

Coals

40 chald.

60

Earthen Ware

300 pieces

Denmark and Norway

British 1383

Coals

7347 chald.

76 chald.

14,259

Grindstones

247

306

Foreign

Salt

—

130 tons

50

2416

Tow

138 c. 0 qr.

309 c. 0 qr.

Lead

10,167 0

1586 0

Lead Shot

143 0

50 0

White Glass

75 0

13 1

Green Glass

96 3

549 2

Wrought Iron

270 0

4 2

Steel

7 3

7 3

Cheese

—

30 0

Worsted Stuffs

2240 lb.

4204 lb.

Haberdashery

864

114

Flour Mustard

1883

346

Indico

369

Tann'd Leather

—

835

Dressed Flax

—

2412

Ale

96 gall.

57 gall.

Rubstones

12 doz.

16 doz.

Felt Hats

—

40

Worst. Stockings

—

10

Silk Gauze

200 yards

9 yards

Velverets

200

750

Col. Wool. Cloth

1590

7755

Denmark and Norway.

Linen

—

121 yards

Printed Cottons

—

142

Flannel

—

280

Corduroy

—

80

Earthen Ware

12,700 pieces

17,400 pieces

Tobacco Pipes

—

53 gross

Bricks

1000

12,500

Flanders

British 3

Coals

180 chald.

170

Grindstones

2

France

British 89

Coals

6165

10,741

Grindstones

467

Lead

764 t c. 3 qr.

Litherage

6 0

Copperas

443 1

Rubstones

183 doz.

Earthen Ware

300 pieces

Germany

British 89

Coals

7933 chald.

36 chald.

14,209

Grindstones

139

9

Foreign 3

Salt

69 tons

69 tons

190

Lead

551 c. 2 qr.

Lead Shot

88 2

White Glass

298 0

Green Glass

41 3

Wrought Iron

1 0

Copperas

340 1

Litherage

61 2

Mustard

120 lb.

Ale

100 gall.

Rubstones

38 doz.

Flagstones

4

Earthen Ware

4250 pieces

5300 pieces

Col. Wool. Cloth

80 yards

80 yards

Sadler's Ware

60l. val.

Housh. Furniture

80l.

Gibraltar

British 14

Coals

980 chald.

1160

Green Glass

203 c. 1 qr.

Ale

68 gall.

Earthen Ware

600 pieces

Greenland Seas

British 4

Fishing Stores, and Provisions for six months.

1360

Guernsey

British 11

Coals

624 chald.

1050

Grindstones

4

White Glass

4c. 3 qr.

Green Glass

248 1

Mustard

1400 lb.

Earthen Ware

15,500 pieces

Holland

British 19

Coals

455 chald.

1741

Grindstones

560

Foreign 1

Lead

2202 c. 0 qr.

50

Lead Shot

17 0

White Glass

544 2

Green Glass

4284 2

Litherage

1397 2

Copperas

1366 0

Foreign Wheat

244 qrs.

Flour Mustard

39lb.

Earthen Ware

700 pieces

Jersey

British 7

Coals

320 chald.

608

Grindstones

12

Lead

5 c. 0 qr.

Lead Shot

17 2

White Glass

55 0

Green Glass

213 2

Wrought Iron

18 1

Steel

12 0

Earthen Ware

19,000 pieces

Ireland

British 3

409

White Glass

1184 c. 2 qr.

Green Glass

418 3

Steel

28 0

Minorca

British 1

170

Coals

104 chald.

N. America

British 1

Coals

8

70

Biscuit Bread

32 tons 10 c.

Cordage

30 c. 3 qr.

Butter

20 1

Cheese

4 1

N. America

Soap

5 c. 3 qr.

Oakham

6 0

Wheat Flour

75 qrs.

Poland

British 5

360

Coals

247 chald.

80 chald.

Grindstones

12

Foreign 1

150

Col. Wool. Cloths

100 yards

Velverets

60

Firestones

147

Worst. Stockings

50 pairs

Flour Mustard

120lb.

Wheat Flour

6 qrs.

Earthen Ware

400 pieces

Portugal

British 14

Coals

932 chald.

1904

Green Glass

457 c. 3 qr.

Wrought Iron

30 0

Wheat

100 qrs.

Barley

365

Ale

188 gall.

Prussia

British 6

Coals

224 chald.

712

Grindstones

155

Rubstones

12 doz.

Corn Machines

3

Russia

British 9

Coals

295 chald.

932

Grindstones

66

Lead

2382 c. 3 qr.

White Glass

58 2

Green Glass

3002 3

Worsted Stuffs

114 lb.

Flour Mustard

408

Indico

1560

Velverets

121 yards

Corduroy

100

Col. Wool. Cloths

1310

Tobacco Pipes

30 gross

Rubstones

25 doz.

Spain

British 1

Wheat

1138 qrs.

120

Sweden

British 16

Coals

1212 chald.

12 chald.

2140

Grindstones

15

16

Foreign 1

Lead

2012 c. 0 qr.

123 c. 3 qr.

50

White Glass

11 3

8 2

Flour Mustard

140 lb.

Ale

10 gall.

Earthen Ware

500 pieces

200 pieces

Velverets

500 yards

150 yards

Col. Wool. Cloths

1000

900

West India Islands

British 7

Coals

648 chald.

1300

Grindstones

2

Potatoes

12 tons

White Glass

46 c. 0 qr.

Cordage

15 2

Biscuit Bread

160 0

Hams

16 0

Flour of Mustard

56lb.

Wheat Flour

448 qrs.

Port Wine

146 gall.

Bricks

41,000

Pantiles

25,000

NEWCASTLE IMPORTS in the Year 1776.

Quantities in

Countries and Islands.

No. of Ships.

Tonnage.

Species of Merchandise.

Brit. Bottoms

Foreign Bot.

Denmark and Norway.

British 23

Common Deals

668 hun. 1 qr.

763 hun. 1 qr.

2290

Battens

23 3

70 3

Foreign 42

Paling Boards

3 1

40 1

2876

Middle Balks

6 3

26 1

Small Balks

12 2

41 1

Double Uffers

1 1

13 0

Single Uffers

10 0

22 0

Capravens

—

5 1

Small Spars

3 0

7 3

Pipe Staves

10 0

—

Handspikes

10 2

48 3

Oars

0 2

3 1

Oak-knees for Wherries

2 2

3 0

Calf Skins in Hair

—

2 0

Axhelves

2 2

3 1

Boom Spars

—

0 2

Denmark and Norway.

Spokes for Cart Wheels

—

28 hun. 1 qr.

Oak Boards

—

0 1

Oak Timber

1 load 0 ft

12 lds 15 ft

Fir Timber

364 23

878 0

Middle Masts

6

104

Small Masts

87

184

Wood Trays

—

11/••/• Shock

Wood Scoops

—

9 doz.

Goats Skins in the Hair

—

10½½

Bar Iron

18 t. 9 c. 1 qr.

18 tons 9 cwt.

Kelp

1 19 2

Stock Fish

0 10 3

Carraway Seeds

0 4 3

Tar

51 lasts 3 bar.

26 lasts 3 bar.

Small Nuts

—

14 barrels

Ragstones

—

2300

France

British 4

Brandy

43 tons

700

Lintseed

2694 bush.

Apples

64

Prunes

45 cwt. 1 qr.

Tar

4⅔ lasts

French Fland.

British 1

Sail Cloth

75 ells

40

Germany

British 20

Raw Dutch Linen Yarn

1417 lb.

3640

Foreign 1

Smalts

24,932

240

White Peas

252 qrs.

Sail-cloth

32 ells

Oak Plank

201 lds 46 ft

Fir Timber

—

74 loads 18 ft

Beech Plank

2 35

Oak Timber

10 15

Bottles Pyrmont Water

8 doz.

Rhenish Wine

37 gall.

Clap Boards

12

Barrel Boards

—

5 hun. 3 qrs.

Pipe and Hogshead Staves

30 hund.

19 2

Germany

Barrel Staves

22 hun. 0 qrs.

128 hun. 0 qr.

Kilderkin Staves

—

17 2

Firkin Staves

30 0

10 0

Oak-knees

1 3

Great Masts

2

Horses

2

Greenland Seas

British 4

Whale and Seal Blubber

1121

243 tons 2 qrs

Whale Fins

161 cwt. 3 qrs

Seal Skins

538

Guernsey

British 1

French Wine

1 ton 2 qrs.

70

Holland

British 12

910

Old Iron

3045 c. 2 qrs.

Rough Flax

4516 2

Foreign 1

80

Madder

347 2

Clover Seed

859 1

Sach. Saturnia

5 2

Fenugreec Seed

2 3

Broken Glass

91 0

Old Cordage

8 0

Steel Hemp

0 3

Geneva

1 ton 1 qr.

Rhenish Wine

2 1

Wainscot Boards

3415 inches

Lintseed

58 bush.

Hempseed

13

Chesnuts

24

Ruffia Mats

100

Wood Hoops

1800

Millstones

3

Dogstones

1⅓ last

Bottles Seltzer Water

15½ doz.

Chest of Wood Clocks

Val. 5l.

Wheat

—

109 qrs.

Blue Paper

10 reams

Sail-cloth

58 ells

Pack-thread

241 lb.

Mares

6

Jamaica

British 1

Rum

15,134 gall.

160

Jersey

British 2

Currants

55 cwt. 3 qrs.

110

Cyder

458 gall.

Wine

253

Cows

3

Poland

British 2

Hogshead Staves

9 hun. 0 qrs.

176

Barrel Staves

10 1

Common Deals

1 0

Oak Plank

165 loads 6 ft

Fir Timber

11 46

Bar Iron

58 cwt. 3 qrs.

Tree Nails

4530

Portugal

British 7

Port Wine

423 tons

650

Cork

2 cwt. 2 qrs.

Bacon Hams

2 2

Dried Plumbs

349 lb.

Onions

560 bunches

Prussia

British 20

Rye

2262 qrs.

4255

Barley

800

White Peas

22

Common Deals

44 hun. 3 qrs.

Clap Boards

8 1

Pipe Staves

43 1

Battens

1 2

Barrel Staves

17 0

Small Spars

3 2

Oak-knees

1 0

Fir Timber

4347lds 5ft

Lathwood

43 fathom

Anchor Stocks

6

Great Masts

24

Middle Masts

5

Small Masts

10

Capravens

24

Kegs Sturgeon

12

Calf Skins in Hair

4400

Rough Hemp

17 cwt. 2 qrs.

Bar Iron

19 1

Tallow

22 0

Russia

British 19

Bar Iron

361 t. 5 c. 2 q.

2739

Rough Hemp

575 10 2

Tow

1 11 2

Rough Flax

138 5 0

Pearl Ashes

7 13 1

Refined Tallow

1 19 0

Rope Tarr'd

0 5 3

Wainscots

1 hun. 0 qrs

Clap Boards

1 0

Pipe Staves

5 0

Small Spars

1 0

Common Deals

151 1

Battens

11 0

Handspikes

1 0

Drilling

19 2 ells

Sail Cloth

0 2

Linen

22 2

Fir Timber

80 loads

Lathwood

4 fathoms

Tar

120 lasts

Rye

1115 qrs.

Capravens

10

Empty Mats

10,000

Spain

British 2

Wine

61 tons 2 qrs.

190

Olives

5 gall.

Raisins

280 cwt. 1 qr.

Sweet Almonds

0 2

Cork

15 0

Grapes

19 jars

Lemons

5000

Sweden

British 10

Bar Iron

562 t. 14 cwt.

15 tons 8 cwt.

950

Tallow

4 0

Foreign 1

Common Deals

322 hun. 0 qr.

9 hun. 0 qrs.

40

Battens

6 0

Pipe Staves

—

8 1

Small Spars

0 1

Oars

0 2

Middle Masts

—

2

Tar

—

7 lasts 9 bar.

Pitch

—

0 6

Wood Tubs

10 doz.

COASTWISE 1766. Ships 4113.—Coals 350,803 chald.—Cinders 3716 chald.—Lead 6250 tons.

There are upon the river Tyne, five Glass Bottle Houses, three Broad Glass Houses, two Crown Houses, two Flint Glass Manufactories, and one Plate Glass House.

There are between 30 and 40 working Salt Pans.

The great Crowley Iron Manufactory at Swalwell employs three Ships, about 150 tons each, throughout the year, in carrying the produce to the port of London only, besides their great vend at other places.

BERWICK IMPORTS in the year 1776.

No. of Ships.

Species of Merchandise.

Quantity in British Bottoms.

49

Common Deals

236 hund. 0 qrs.

Battens

68 2

Middle Balks

29 0

Handspikes

17 0

Paling Boards

23 0

Single Uffers

2 0

Small Balks

3 2

Firkin Staves

6 0

Fir Timber

1236 loads

Oak Timber

4

Bar Iron

109 tons

Rough Flax

107 cwt.

Clover Seed

134

Lintseed

935 bushels

Wainscot Boards

820 inches

Notes

*

- Sir John Delaval, of North Dissington, Knt. Ob. 12th Aug. 1652.

- Robert his son and heir Ob. 6th Feb 1666.

- He gave 5l. to the poor of this parish yearly, issuing out of Diffington.

- Willam Delaval Ob. 20th Aug. 1684.

- George Ob. 18th March, 1694.

- Mary wife of Edward Delaval and daughter of Sir Ob. 7th Dec. 1711. AE 17.

- Francis Blake, of Ford Castle Ob. 7th Dec. 1711. AE 17.

- Edward, above named Ob. 3d Aug. 1744. AE 80.

The income of this parish being represented to Dr Smith, Bishop of Carlisle, after the Restoration, as an insufficient maintenance for a minister, his Lordship, among his other excellent charities, augmented it 25l. per ann.

Wallis.

Here lieth Sir John Delaval, of North Diffington, Knt. who died the 12th of August, 1652; also Robert Delaval, Esq his son and heir, who died the 6th of Feb. 1666, and gave to the poor of this parish 5l. to be paid by the lands of North Diffington the Thursday before Easter yearly, for ever; also William Delaval, buried August the 20th, 1684; George Delaval, buried March the 18th, 1694; Mary wife of Edward Delaval, Esq daughter of Sir Francis Blake, of Ford Castle, buried Dec. 7th, 1711, aged 17. The aforesaid Edward, eldest son of George Delaval, Esquire's son, died Aug. 3d, 1744, aged 80 years, and left 50l. to be distributed amongst the poor inhabitants of the four following parishes: To Newburn 20l. to Heddon on the Wall 10l. to Stamfordham 10l. and to Ponteland 10l.

↵

*

In Rushworth's Historical Collections, there is a very particular relation of this affair, p. 1236.

‘On the twenty seventh of Aug. (1640) in the forenoon, his Majesty received intelligence from the Lord Conway, that the Scots would that night be near Newcastle with their army, craving his Majesty's pleasure and directions about the disposing of his army to the interruption of the march of the Scots.’

‘The King immediately called the Gentry of Yorkshire, then at York, together, to wait upon his Majesty, to whom the Earl of Strafford made a speech, presently after he prepared a pacquet to be sent post to the Lord Conway, then understanding the Scots were come near Newcastle; and the author of these Collections being newly come post from London to York, and hearing a pacquet was about to be sent to Newcastle, took the opportunity to bear the messenger company therewith: but when the author and the messenger with the pacquet came to Newcastle upon the 28th of August in the morning, they were informed, that the Lord Conway was gone to the army near Newburn, whither we went immediately, and found the Lord Conway and the Field Officers at a Council of War at Stella, half a mile distant from the army, and delivered the Lord Conway the pacquet, which being opened, it contained special orders to prepare the army for an engagement with the Scots. Whilst they were in debate in this matter an Herald came in all haste from the army, to acquaint the Lord Conway and Council of War, that the army was already engaged with the Scots; which seemed strange to them, because orders were given not to fight but upon the defence.’

On the 27th of August, ‘The Scots pitched their tents on Heddon Law, above Newborne, from whence there went a continued descent to the river of Tyne. In the night time they made great fires in and round about their camp, on an open moorish ground, (having coals plenty thereabouts) so that the camp seemed to be of large compass and extent.’

‘That night and the next morning they suffered any Englishman to come into their camp, and made them welcome, with expressions of great love and protestations of doing harm to none but those who should oppose them in demanding justice of the King against incendiaries.’

‘The same night part of the King's army, consisting of 3000 foot and 1500 horse, were drawn forth into a plain meadow ground, which was near a mile in length, close on the south side of Tyne, called Newborne Haugh or Stella Haugh, to hinder the Scots from passing the river in the night time, where were two several sconces or breast-works, raised by the English against the two fords, which the Scots might pass over at low water, for 'till then they could not pass the Tyne, and into each sconce were put four hundred musqueteers and four pieces of ordinance.’

‘The horse were drawn into squadrons in the said Haugh, at some distance from the foot; in this posture horse and foot guarded the river all that night and the next day, till the engagement.’

‘The Scots all the forenoon watered their horses at one side of the river, and the English on the other side, without affronting one another, or giving any reproachful language.’

‘The Scots having the advantage of the rising ground above Newborne, easily discerned the posture and motion of the English army below in the valley, on the south side the river; but the posture of the Scots army the English could not discern by reason of the houses, hedges, and inclosures in and about Newborne. The Scots brought down cannon into Newborne town, and planted some in the church steeple, a small distance from the river Tyne: their musqueteers were placed in the church, houses, lanes, and hedges, in and about Newborne.’

‘The skirmish began thus, (as the author of these Collections was informed, being then upon the place) a Scottish officer, well mounted, having a black feather in his hat, came out of one of the thatcht houses in Newborne, and watered his horse in the river Tyne, as they had done all that day; an English soldier perceived he fixed his eye towards the English trenches on the south side of the river, fired at him, (whether in earnest or to fright him is not known) but wounded the Scotchman with the shot, who fell off his horse, whereupon the Scottish musqueteers immediately fired upon the English, and so the fight begun with small shot, but was continued with great shot as well as small.’

‘The Scots played with their cannon upon the English breast-works and sconce; the King's army played with their cannon to beat the Scots out of the church steeple; thus they continued firing on both sides, 'till it grew to be near low water, and by that time the Scots, with their cannon, had made a breach in the greater sconce, which Colonel Lunsford commanded, wherein many of his men were killed and began to retire, yet the Colonel prevailed with them to stand to their arms; but presently after a Captain, a Lieutenant, and some other officers were slain in that work: then the soldiers took occasion to complain, that they were put upon double duty, and had stood there all night and that day to that time, and that no soldiers were sent from the army at Newcastle to relieve them; but Col. Lunsford again prevailed with them not to desert their works, but another cannon shot hitting in the works amongst the souldiers, and killing some more of them, they threw down their arms, and would abide in the fort no longer.’

‘The enemy on the rising ground above Newbourne, plainly discerned the posture of the King's army, and how the souldiers had quit the great work, and being low water, the Scots commanded a forlorn party of 26 horse, being gentlemen of the College of Justice Troop, to pass the river, which they did with some swiftness; their orders were only to make discovery in what posture the souldiers were about the uppermost work, but not to come to close engagement, but fire at a distance and retreat.’

The Scots playing at this time very hard upon the furthermost trench, forced the English ‘foot to retreat from that work also, which the Scots discerning on the rising ground at Newborne, commanded by Sir Thomas Hope, and two regiments of foot commanded by the Lord Craford, Lindsey, and Lord Lowdon, waded through the river, and General Lesley at this instant of time played hard with nine pieces of cannon, from a new sconce which they had raised on a hill to the east, and so galled the King's horse, drawn up in plain meadow ground, that it much disordered them, and sending more forces over the river, a retreat was sounded, and Colonel Lunsford drew off the cannon. Immediately Commissary Wilmot, son to the Lord Wilmot, Sir John Digby, a Romish Recusant, and Daniel O'Neal, an Irishman, jointly engaged the enemy, and had a sharp encounter with their horse, they being commanded to bring up the rear, whilst the foot retreated up Ryton and Stella Banks; but the Scots, with their fresh supply newly come over the river, environed these three commanders, and took them and some others of their troops prisoners. General Lesley treated these commanders nobly in the Scots camp, and afterwards gave them their liberty freely to return to the King's army.’

‘In this engagement Cornet Potter, son of Endymion Potter of the Bed-chamber, was slain, and during the whole fight about 60 men more, as the Scots told us, after the cessation of arms was agreed unto, for the Scots buried the dead; and afterwards they further told us, that most of them that were killed lay about the works: how many of the Scots were slain we know not.’

‘After this retreat the Lord Conway called a Council of War, and it was there resolved, at twelve at night, that the whole army should retreat to Durham, horse, and foot, and train of artillery, and to quit Newcastle.’

↵

*
Said to have been concealed in some brushwood, previous to the army fording the river.
↵

†
Clarendon.
↵

*
Whitlock's Memoirs.
↵

†

Knights of the Shire for the county of Northumberland, to the 12th year of King Edward IV. extracted from Prynne's Brevia Parliamentaria Rediviva.

Anno Regni.

Knights.

Parliament.

King Edward I.

26—Dominus Henricus de Dychend

Dominus Johannes de Ogghell

30—Hugo Gabion

Johannes de Camhou Milites.

King Edward II.

1—Johannes de Eure

Johannes de Dudden Mil.

4—Wisthard de Charrous

Rogerus Mandiuts Mil.

6—Dominus Walter de Borringdon

Dominus Rob. de Clifford Mil.

Apud Windsor

6—Dicunt non curant mittere

Woodstock

7—Adam de Swinburne

Rogerus Mandite

8—Nulli electi ratione Belli

Spalding

15—Rob. de Raynes

Johannes de Yerdham Mil.

19 Will. Rydell

Michael de Pressen

King Edward III.

1—Nulli electi ratione Belli[*]

Stanhope

1—Johannes de Lilliburne

Johannes de Meneville Mil.

2—Johannes de Boroughdon

Mich. de Preston Mil.

Ebor

4—Rogerus Manduit

Will. de Tynedale

7—Rogerus Maundit

Rob. Darrays

9—Rob. Darrays

Johannes de Wanton

12—Will. de Emeldon

David de Vollores

Walton

14—Will. de Felton

Robertus de Maners

Herewyr

15—Henricus de Haverington

Will. de Pressen

Woodstock

17—Johannes de Yerdhill

Mich. de Presson

20—Alanus de Heppestotes

Edmundus de Demun

21—Rogerus de Widrington

Will. de Heppestotes

22—Rob. de Reymes

Rob. Wendite

24—Rob. Bertram

Rog. de Boderington

26—Will. de Felton (only one Knight by the writs)

27—Wil. de Felton Mil.

31—Hen. de Haverington

Ricus de Horseley

33—Johannes de Cambhouwe

Ricus de Horseley

34—Ricus de Horseley

Rob. Wenduit[†]

34—Tho. Surteys

Roger Woderington

36—Tho. Surteys

Roger de Woderington

38—Adomarus de Atholl

Alanus

39—Adom. de Atholl

Hen. de Haverington

46—Tho. Surteys

Johannes de Midford

47—Will. de Vale

Bertram Monboucher

50—Bertram Monboucher

Johannes de Mitford

King Richard II.

2—Johannes de Fenwick

Nich. Raymes

5—Adomarus D'Athol

Rad. de Euyr

7—David Holgreve

Joh. de Mitteford

7—Thom. de Moderby

Rob. de Esthydwinde

8—Joh. de Lilburne

Thom. de Moderby

10—Bertram Monboucher

Rob. Elmering

11—Tho. Umfranvill

Joh. de Mitford

13—Tho. de Umfranvill

Joh. de Mitford

15—Gerardus Heron

Joh. de Mitford

17—Gerardus Heron

Joh. Miteford

18—Will. de Swinburn

Sampson Harding

20—Tho. Grey

Joh. de Miteford

21—Gerardus Heron

Rob. Lisle

King Henry IV.

1—Tho. Grey

Sampson Harding

3—Gerardus Heron

Johannes Musard

King Henry V.

1—Joh. Bertram

P. Indent.

2—John Woderington

Sampson Harding Mil.

ditto

5—Rob. de Ogle

Will. Mitford

ditto

5—Rob. Lisle

Joh. Middleton

ditto

8—Rob. Ogle

Nich. Turpin

ditto

8—Edw. Hastings

Rob. Hirbotyll

ditto

9—Rob. Ogle

Will. Mitford

ditto

King Henry VI.

1—John Bertram

Will. Elmedon Mel. gladiis cincti

ditto

2—Thom. Haldon

Thom. Ilderton

ditto

3—Rob. de Ogle

Thom. Ilderton Miles

ditto

5—Will. Elmedon Chir

Will. Strother

ditto

7—Joh. Bertram

Joh. Cartington

ditto

13—Rob. Ogle Mil.

Will. Bertram Arm.

ditto

20—Rob. de Ogle Mil.

Joh. Heron Arm.

ditto

25—Joh. Heron Arm.

Joh. Cartington Arm.

ditto

27—Radus Grey Arm. fil & heres Rici Grey Mil.

Joh. Heron de Ford

ditto

28—Will. Bertram Mil.

Rob. Mitford

ditto

☞ Qui ambo Indenturas subscripserunt ut Electores.

29—Will. Bertram

Joh. Ogle Miles

ditto

38—Tho. Wiltden

Rob. Maners

ditto

King Edw. IV.

6—Georgius Lomly

Rob. Folbery Mil. gladiis cincti

ditto

12—Joh. Middleton Miles

Joh. Cartington Arm.

ditto

The Writs, Returns, and Indentures from 17 King Edw. IV. to 33 King Henry VIII. are all lost.

B. Willis.

King Henry VIII.

33

King Edw. VI.

1—John Widdrington, Knt.

P. Indent.

7—John Gray

Cuth. Horseley

ditto

Queen Mary.

1—Tho. Grey, Knt. of Harton Castle

Cuth. Horseley

ditto

1—Joh. Swinborne, Knt. of Capheaton

Rob. Horseley, Knt.

ditto

Philip and Mary.

1 and 2—Joh, Gray, Knt.

Cuth. Horseley, Esq of Long Horsley

P. Indent.

2 and 3—Geo. Wharton, Knt.

Tho. Warren, Esq

ditto

4 and 5—Tho. Wharton, Knt.

Rob. Elleker, Knt.

ditto

Queen Elizabeth.

1—Tho. Wharton, Knt.

ditto

5—Joh. Vaughan, Esq

Rob. Lawson

ditto

13—Hen. Piercy

Will. Hilton, Knts.

ditto

14—Fra. Russel, Knt.

Tho. Leighton; Esq

ditto

27—Fra. Ld Russel

Edw. Talbot, Esq Younger son of E. Shrewsbury

ditto

28—Tho. Grey, Knt.

Edw. Talbot, Esq

ditto

31—Will. Carre

Rob. Widdrington, Esq

ditto

35—Will. Read, Knt.

Rob. Widdrington, Esq

ditto

39—Rob. Carr, Knt.

Rob. Widdrington

ditto

43—Rob. Carre, Knt.

Will. Selbye, jun. Esq

ditto

King James I.

1—Ra. Grey

Hen. Widdrington, Knts.

ditto

12—Geo. Selbye

Hen. Widdrington, Knts.

ditto

18—Will. Grey, Bart. of Wark Castle

Hen. Widdrington, Knt. of Widdrington Castle

ditto

21—Joh. Fenwick

Fra. Brandling, Knts. of North Gosforth

ditto

King Charles I.

1—Joh. Fenwick, Knt.

Fra. Brandling, Esq

ditto

12—Joh. Fenwick, Knt.

Joh. Delaval, Knt.

ditto

13—John Fenwick

Will. Carnaby, Knts. of Halton Tower

ditto

15—Joh. Fenwick, Knt. and Bart.

Wm Widdrington, Knt.

ditto

16—Joh. Fenwick, Bart.[*]

Hen. Percy[†]

ditto

Wm Widdrington

Wm Fenwick, Esqrs.

These came in the rooms of the last elected Knights, on their deceases or expulsions, between 640 and 653.

Oliver Cromwell Usurper. He convened the Little Parliament; except London, Returns of Representatives were only made for Counties.

1 (1653)—Hen. Ogle

Westminster

3 Sep. 1654 —Hen. Ogle of Eglingham

Wm Fenwick of Wallington

ditto

—Rob. Fenwick of Bedlington, Esq [*]

17 Sep. 1656.—Rob. Fenwick, Esq

Wm Fenwick, Esq

ditto

—Tho. Lord Widdrington

Richard Cromwell Usurper.

27 Jan. 1658.—Wm Fenwick, Bart.

Ra. Delaval, Esq

ditto

The Convention Parliament.

25 Apr. 1660.—Lord Mansfield

Joh. Fenwick, Esq

Westminster

King Charles II.

13—Lord Mansfield

Joh. Fenwick, Esq

ditto

31—Ra. Delaval

Sir Joh. Fenwick, Bart.

ditto

31—Ra. Delaval

Sir J. Fenwick, Bart.

ditto

32—Ra. Delaval, Esq

Sir John Fenwick, Bart.

Oxon

King James II.

1—Joh. Fenwick, Bart.

Will. Ogle, Esq

Westminster

The Convention Parliament.

22 Jan. 1688.—Will. Forster

Phil. Bickerstaff, Esqrs.

ditto

King William and Queen Mary.

2—Will. Forster

Phil. Bickerstaff, Esqrs.

ditto

King William III.

7—Will. Forster

Phil. Bickerstaff, Esqrs.

ditto

10—Will. Forster, Esq

Edw. Blackett, Bart.

ditto

12—Fra. Blake

Will. Lorraine, Esqrs.

ditto

12—Fra. Blake, Knt.

Bertram Stote, Esq

ditto

Queen Anne.

1—

ditto

4—Tho. Forster, Esq

Joh. Delaval, Bart.

ditto

Election 31 May, 1705.

- Tho. Forster 823

- Joh. Delaval 775

- Fra. Blake of Ford 646

7—Tho. Forster, jun. Esq

Algernon Earl Hertford [*]

ditto

9—Tho. Forster, jun. Esq

Algernon E. Hertford [†]

ditto

12—Tho. Forster

Algernon Earl Hertford

ditto

King George I.

1—Algernon E. Hertford.

Tho. Forster, jun. Esq [‡]

ditto

Fra. Blake Delaval of Seaton Delaval, Esq

7—Algernon E. Hertford. [§]

Ra. Jennison, Esq ‖

ditto

Will. Middleton, Bart.

King George II.

1—Wm Middleton, Bart.

Ra. Jennison, Esq

Westminster

7—Wm Middleton, Bart.

Ra. Jennison, Esq [*]

ditto

14—Wm Middleton, Bart.

Joh. Fenwick, Esq

ditto

Elected 21 May, 1741.

21—Wm Middleton, Bart.

Joh. Fenwick, Esq [†]

ditto

28—Wm Middleton, Bart.[‡]

Henry Grey of Howick, Bart.

ditto

Elected 18 May, 1754.

King George III.

1—Geo. Shaftoe Delaval, Esq

Hen. Grey, Bart.

ditto

8—Geo. Shaftoe Delaval, Esq

Edw. Blackett, Bart.

ditto

—Lord Algernon Percy

Sir Wm Middleton, Bart.

ditto

Elected Sat. 22 Oct. 1774.

Candidates.

No. polled.

Lord Algernon Percy

1235 Poll began 13 Oct. and ended 22d.

Sir Wm Middleton

1099 Poll began 13 Oct. and ended 22d.

Sir J. Hussey Delaval

1083 Poll began 13 Oct. and ended 22d.

Wm Fenwick, Esq

762 Poll began 13 Oct. and ended 22d.

They polled in each Ward.

Percy

Middleton

Delaval

Fenwick

Castle Ward

145

121

150

88

Morpeth

174

170

152

117

Coquetdale

335

221

248

11

Balmbrough

58

113

45

96

Glendale

139

60

149

27

Tindale

384

414

339

323

1235

1099

1083

762

The joint Interest which appeared in this Election, will be best comprehended from the following Table, handed to the public at the time of the contest. It will also gratify the curious with a view of the chief landed property in the county.

Persons.

Estates per ann.

£.

Duke of Northumberland

40,000

Duke of Portland

8,000

Earl of Tankerville

12,000

Earl of Carlisle

10,000

Lord Ravensworth

3,000

Sir G. Warren

2,000

Sir J. H. Delaval

10,000

Sir W. C. Blackett

8,000

Sir M. W. Ridley

5,000

Sir F. Blake

4,000

— Reed, Esq

2,000

104,000

↵

*
These three returns from Prynne, p. 165, set forth at length in the notes to the table of Burgesses for Newcastle.
↵

†

In 34 Edward III. the King issued a writ, dated 3 Ap. apud West. to the Sheriff of Northumberland, to elect, De com. tuo duos milites gladiis cinctos, &c. de discretior; & probioribus militibus & ad loborandum potentioribus. The Sheriff, Henry de Strochre, thereupon made this return on the back of the writ:

Non fuerunt aliqui milites in com. meo postquam breve istud michi venit praeter quam Walterus de Tyndale qui languidus est & impotens ad loborandum. Whereupon the names and manucaptors of two others who were elected, though they were no Knights by order girt with swords in this manner. Manucapt. Rici de Horsley unius electorum de com. meo plenam et sufficientem potestatem habentis pro se & communitate dicti com.

Manucapt. Robti Wendind alterius electi dicti com. eandem potest. habentis.

Prynne's Br. Parl. Red. p. 167.

↵

*
Expelled the House 22d Jan. 1640.
↵

†
Expelled 9 Dec. 1741.
↵

*
Purchased the Manor of Bedlington and Choppington Farm of the Parliament, 21 Jan. 1649, for 1296l. 5½d.
↵

*
Made a Colonel in the army, and new writ ordered 15 Nov. 1709, and re-elected.
↵

†
Ogle, a petitioner, withdrew.—Lord Hertford, eldest son of the Duke of Somerset, made Governor of Tinmouth Fort, 17 Feb. 1711: a new writ ordered, on which he was re-elected.
↵

‡
Tho. Forster, expelled for being a Rebel to Jan. 1716: a new writ.
↵

§
Ob. 7 Feb. 1722.
↵

‖

Election Feb. 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, and 1 Mar. 1722.

- Wm Wrightson 997

- Ra. Jennison 963

Wrightson having a majority of 34, was returned by R. Mitford, Esq the Sheriff; but the House upon scrutiny struck off near 30 of Mr Wrightson's votes, and in the end voted him not duly elected. My authority, says (Randal's MS) that one Wm Shippen, Esq desired to save, &c. &c. &c. to strike off five or six more of Wrightson's votes, as the majority, &c. &c. &c. before it was put to the vote.
↵

*
Made Master of the King's Buck Hounds. A new writ 25 June 1737, and he was re-elected.
Election, 8 May, 1734.

- Ra. Jennison of Elswick, Esq 1189

- Sir W. Middleton of Belsay Castle, Bart. 1092

- Joh. Fenwick of Bywell, Esq 1052

- Joh. Bacon of Newbrough, Esq 153

↵

†
Elected 1 July, 1747. J. Fenwick dying, a new writ ordered 11 Jan. 1748.
Election Feb. 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24, Ao. 1747.

- Lancelot Algood of Hexham, Esq 982

- Cha. Lord Osulstone 971

The Sheriff Nich. Brown, Esq disallowed 26 of Mr Algood's votes, and returned Lord Osulstone, who on Mr Algood's petition waved his return.
↵

‡
Sir Wm Middleton ob. 28 Sep. 1757, and in his room was elected Geo. Shaftoe Delaval of Bavington, Esq.
↵

*

Note to page 445.

The Names of the Gentry of Northumberland, returned by the Commissioners in the 12th year of King Henry VI. 1433.

- Thomas Bishop of Durham Commissioners to take the Oaths.

- Ra. Earl Westmoreland Commissioners to take the Oaths.

- Tho Lilborn and John Carington Knights for the Shire Commissioners to take the Oaths.

- Rob. Umfravil, Knt.

- Ra. Gray, Knt.

- Rob. Ogle, sen. Knt.

- Rob. Ogle, jun. Knt.

- John Bertram, Knt.

- Will. Elmeden, Knt.

- Joh. Middleton, Knt.

- Will. Swinburn, Knt.

- Joh. Maners, Knt.

- Math. Whitfield, Knt.

- Will. Carnaby

- Joh. Fenwick

- John Middleton

- Tho. Ilderton

- Rob. Rames

- Tho. Haggerston

- Rob. Manners

- Laur. Acton

- Tho. Gray de Norton

- Tho. Blenkensop

- Row. Thirlwall

- Rich. Featherstonhalgh

- Gilb. Rotherford

- Will. Muschaunce

- Gilb. Eryngton

- Will. Clenell

- Joh. Heron de Netherton

- Tho. Reed de Redesdale

- Rog. Ushere

- Tho. Midleton

- Joh. Ellerington

- Joh. Park

- Rich. Lilburne

- Tho. Elwicke

- Joh Eryngton

- Nich. Heron de Meldon

- John Trewyk

- Jos. Chestre

- Lion Chestre

- John Horseley de Horseley

- Jaco. Buk de Morpath.

Sheriffs of Northumberland.

King Henry II.

A. D.

Sheriffs.

Anno Regni.

1154

Odardus

1

1155

Will. de Vescy Mil.

2

1156

Will. de Vescy Mil.

3

1157

Will. de Vescy Mil.

4

1158

Will. de Vescy Mil.

5

1159

Will. de Vescy Mil.

6

1160

Will. de Vescy Mil.

7

1161

Will. de Vescy Mil.

8

1162

Will. de Vescy Mil.

9

1163

Will. de Vescy Mil.

10

1164

Will. de Vescy Mil.

11

1165

Will. de Vescy Mil.

12

1166

Will. de Vescy Mil.

13

1167

Will. de Vescy Mil.

14

1168

Will. de Vescy Mil.

15

1169

Roger Stateville

16 Will. de Vescy half the year

1170

Roger Stateville

17

1171

Roger Stateville

18

1172

Roger Stateville

19

1173

Roger Stateville

20

1174

Roger Stateville

21

1175

Roger Stateville

22

1176

Roger Stateville

23

1177

Roger Stateville

24

1178

Roger Stateville

25

1179

Roger Stateville

26

1180

Roger Stateville

27

1181

Roger Stateville

28

1182

Roger Stateville

29

1183

Roger Stateville

30

1184

Roger de Glanvill

31 Amerced 10l. for not coming to the Exchequer as summoned. Madox, p. 695.

1185

Roger de Glanvill

32

1186

Roger de Glanvill

33

1187

34

1188

35

King Richard I. 6 June, 1189.

1189

Roger de Glaville

1

1190

Will. de Stuteville & Regin Basset

2

1191

Nul. Tit. Com. in hoc Rotulo

3

1192

4

1193

5

1194

Hugo Bardolph

6

1195

Hugo Bardolph

7

1196

Hugo Bardolph

8

1197

Hugo Bardolph

9

1198

Hugo Bardolph, & ob. Fil. Will.

10

King John, 6 Apr. 1199.

1199

Hugo Bardolfe

1

1200

Will. Stutevill & Joh. Laleman

2 Rob. Fitz Roger half that year. V. Dugd.

1201

Rob. fil. Rog. & Rad. de Furnell

3

1202

Rob. fil. Rog. & Rad. de Furnell

4

1203

Rob. fil. Rog. & Rad. de Furnell

5

1204

Rob. fil. Rog.

6

1205

Rob. fil. Rog.

7

1206

Rob. fil. Rog. & Rob. de Kent

8

1207

Rob. fil. Rog. & Aug. de Corvo

9

1208

Rob. fil. Rog. & Tho. Haltem

10

1209

Rob. fil. Rog. & Will. de Blunvill

11

1210

Rob. fil. Rog. & Will. de Blunvill

12

1211

Rob. fil. Rog. & Will. de Blunvill

13

1212

14

1213

15 Rob. son of Roger. V. Dug. Ulcote of West Matfen.

1214

Almericus Archd. Dunelm & Phil. Ulcote

16

1215

Phil. de Ulcote & Will. de Shatton

17

1216

18

King Henry III. 19 Oct. 1216.

1216

Phil. de Ulcot

1

1217

Phil. de Ulcot

2

1218

Phil. de Ulcot

3

1219

Phil. de Ulcot

4

1220

Rob. de Witchester

5

1221

Rob. de Witchester

6

1222

Will. Briervere, jun. & Rog. Langford

7

1223

Will. Briervere, jun. ut Custos & Tho. de Titleburn

8

1224

Joh. fil. Rob. & Will. Coniers

9

1225

Joh. fil. Rob. & Will. Coniers

10 Joh. Governor of Newcastle.

1226

Joh. fil. Rob. & Will. Coniers

11

1227

Joh. fil. Rob. half that year

12

1228

Bri. fil. Alani & Hug. de Magneby

13 Bri. Governor of the Castle of Newcastle.

1229

Bri. fil. Alani & Hug. de Magneby

14

1230

Bri. fil. Alani & Hugh de Magneby

15

1231

Bri. fil. Alani & Joh. de Mersley

16

1232

Bri. fil. Alani & Joh. de Mersley

17

1233

Bri. fil. Alani & Joh. de Mersley

18

1234

Bri. fil. Alani & Joh. de Mersley

19

1235

20

1236

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

21 Hu. Gov. of the Castles of Bambro' and Newcastle.

1237

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

22

1238

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

23

1239

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

24

1240

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

25

1241

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

26

1242

Hu. de Bolebet & Alan de Kirkby

27

1243

Hu. de Bolebet & Rob. de Camhoe

28 of Camhoe, Knt.

1244

Hu. de Bolebech & Rob. de Camhoe

29

1245

Hu. de Bolebech & Rob. de Camhoe

30

1246

Will. Heyrun

31 Heron of Ford Castle built the castle in 1227, 12 K. Hen. III.

1247

Will. Heyrun

32

1248

Will. Heyrun

33

1249

Will. Heyrun

34

1250

Will. Heyrun

35

1251

Will. Heyrun

36

1252

Will. Heyrun

37

1253

Will. Heyrun

38

1254

Will. Heyrun

39

1255

Will. Heyrun

40

1256

Will. Heyrun

41

1257

Joh. de Plesset

42

1258

Joh. de Plesset

43

1259

Tho. filius Mich.

44

1260

Tho. filius Mich.

45

1261

Adam de Gesenor & Hu. de Hereford Clicus

46

1262

Adam de Cregenor & Joh. Lidegreynes

47

1263

Adam de Cresenor & Joh. Lidegreynes

48

1264

Adam de Cresenor & Joh. Lidegreynes

49

1265

Adam de Cresenor & Joh. Lidegreynes

50

1266

Adam de Cresenor & Joh. Lidegreynes

51

1267

Wischardus de Charny

52 s.

1268

Wischardus de Charny

53 Amerced C for not making his profer at the Exchequer. Madox, p. 645.

1269

Rich. de Charny

54

1270

Rich. de Charny

55

1271

Rich. de Charny

56

King Edward I. 16 Nov. 1272.

1272

Robert de Hampton

1

1273

Rob. de Hampton

2

1274

Rob. de Hampton

3

1275

Joh. de Lichegreynes

4

1276

Joh. de Lichegreynes

5

1277

Joh. de Lichegreynes

6

1278

Walt. de Cannblion

7

1279

Walt. de Cannblion

8

1280

Tho. de Dyveleston

9

1281

Tho. de Dyveleston

10

1282

Tho. de Dyvelston

11

1283

Tho. de Dyvelston

12

1284

Tho. de Dyvelston

13

1285

Tho. de Dyvelston

14

1286

Tho. de Dyvelston

15

1287

Tho. de Dyvelston

16

1288

Rich. Knoul

17

1289

Rich. Knoul

18

1290

Rich. Knoul

19

1291

Rich. Knoul

20

1292

Rich. Knoul

21

1293

Hu. Gobium

22

1294

Hu. Gobium

23

1295

Hu. Gobium

24

1296

Joh. de Kirkby

25

1297

Rob. de Balliolo

26

1298

Rob. de Balliolo

27

1299

Rog. Mynot

28

1300

Rog. Mynot

29

1301

Joh. de Camblion

30

1302

Lucas Talboys

31

1303

Lucas Talboys

32

1304

Joh. de Creppinge & Joh. de Sheffeld

33

1305

Joh. de Creppinge & Joh. de Sheffeld

34

1306

Joh. de Crepping & John de Sheffeld

35

King Edward II. 7 July, 1307.

1307

Rob. de Fandon

1

1308

Guid Charro•m

2

1309

Johan. de Cannton

3

1310

Johan. de Cannton

4

1311

Will. de Felton & John de Cannton

5

1312

Will. de Felton & Joh. de Cannton

6

1313

Will. de Felton & Joh. de Cannton

7

1314

Will. de Ridell of Swinburn Castle, Knt. during pleasure

8

1315, 1316, 1317, 1318, 1319, 1320, 1321

1322

Dominus Joh. de Fenwyck

16

1323

Dominus Gilbertus Boroughdon

17

1324, 1325

King Edward III. 25 Jan. 1326.

1326

Joh. de Insula & Joh. de Fenwick

1

1327

Joh. de Lilleburne

2

1328

Joh. de Lilleburne

3

1329

Joh. de Lilleburne

4

1330

Joh. de Lilleburne

5

1331

Joh. de Lilleburne

6

1332

7

1•33

Roger Manduit

8

1334

Hob. Dardins

9

1335

Hob. Dardins

10

1336

Hob. Dardins

11

1337

Will. Felton

12 of West Matfen, Knt.

1338

Will. Felton

13

1339

Will. Felton

14

1340

Will. Felton

15

1341

Will. Felton

16

1342

Will. Felton

17

1343

Rob. Bertram & Rob. de Fenwicke

18

1344

Rob. Bertram & Rob. de Fenwicke

19

1345

Rob. Reymes

20 of Bolam.

1346

Rob. Reymes

21

1347

Joh. Clifford

22

1348

Joh. Clifford

23

1349

24

1350

Joh. Coupeland

25 of Coupeland, Knt.

1351

Joh. Coupeland

26

1352

Joh. Coupeland

27

1353

Joh. Coupeland

28

1354

Joh. Coupeland

29

1355

30

1356

Alan de Strother

31 of Kirk-Newton, in Glendale.

1357

Alan de Strother

32

1358

Hen. de Strother

33

1359

Hen. de Strother

34

1360

Joh. Heronn

35

1361

Rog. de Widrington

36 of Widrington Castle, Knt.

1362

Rich. de Horseley

37 of Long Horseley.

1363

Hen. de Strother

38

1364

Hen. de Strother

39

1365

Hen. de Strother

40

1366

Hen. de Strother

41

1367

Hen. de Strother

42 Horsely oc. 1367.

1368

Rich. de Horseley

43

1369

Rich. de Horseley

44

1370

Rich. de Horseley

45

1371

Rob. Umfravil

46

1372

Tho. Suritis—Will. de Errington, query

47 Surtees of North Gosforth.

1373

Joh. Fenwicke—Will. Delaval, query

48

1374

Bertram Monboucher

49

1375

Tho. de Ilderton

50 of Ilderton, Knt.

1376

Rob. Umfraville

51

King Richard II. 21 June, 1377.

1377

Bertram Monboucher

1

1378

Tho. Surtees

2

1379

Bertram Monboucher

3

1380

Bertram Monboucher

4

1381

Adom. de Atholl

5 Dominus de Jesmond, Knt.

1382

Rob. de Clifford

6

1383

Johan Heron

7

1384

Henry de Percy de Alnwick Com. Northumb.

8

1385

Henry de Percy

9

1386

Henry de Percy

10

1387

Henry de Percy

11

1388

Rad. de Eure

12

1389

Rad. de Eure

13

1390

Joh. de Felton

14

1391

Henry de Percy

15

1392

Henry de Percy

16

1393, 1394, 1395

1396

Hen. de Percy

20

1397

Hen. de Percy

21

1398

Joh. de Fenwicke de Fenwicke Tower

22

King Henry IV. 29 Sept. 1399.

1399

Henry de Percy fil. Com. Northumb.

1

1400

Gerard Heron M. & Rob. Umfravill

2

1401

Joh. Milford M.

3 of Moleston.

1402

Joh. Clavering M.

4 of Calleyley.

1403

5

1404

Rob. Umfravill M.

6

1405

Rob. Lisle Mil.

7

1406

Rob. Herbotel

8 of Harbottle.

1407

Tho. Grey

9 of Herton. Knt.

1408

Rob. Tempest

10

1409

Joh. Widdrington

11 of Widdrington Castle, Knt.

1410

Joh. Bertram

12

King Hen. V. 20 Mar. 1412.

1412

Joh. Maneres

1 of Etal.

1413

Edw. Hastings M.

2

1414

Rob. Lisle

3 of Felton, Knt.

1415

Joh. Bertram

4

1416

Rob. Ogle

5

1417

Edw. Hastings

6 of West Matfen, Knt.

1418

Will. Elmedon

7

1419

Tho. Surtis

8 of North Gosforth.

1420

Tho. Surtis

9

King Hen. VI. 31 Aug. 1422.

1422

Joh. Bertram M.

1

1423

Joh. Middleton

2

1424

Joh. Bertram M.

3

1425

Joh. Widdrington

4 of Widdrington Castle, Knt.

1426

Will. Lambton

5

1427

Hen. Fenwick Arm.

6

1428

Will. Carnaby Ar.

7 of Halton Tower, Esq

1429

Joh. Woderington

8

1430

Joh. Bertram

9

1431

Rog. Woddrington

10 of Widderington Castle, Knt.

1432

Joh. Midleton

11

1433

Math. Whitfield

12 of Whitfield Hall, Knt.

1434

Joh. Bertram M.

13

1435

Rog. Woderington

14

1436

Will. Eure Mil.

15 of Kirkley, Knt.

1437

Rog. Ogle Mil.

16 of Ogle Castle, Knt.

1438

Joh. Bertram

17

1439

Rob. Herbotell M.

18

1440

Joh. Heron

19 of Ford Castle.

1441

Joh. Heron

20

1442

Rog. Woderington

21

1443

Joh. Heron

22

1444

Rob. Claxston

23

1445

Will. Haringe

24

1446

Tho. Wellden

25

1447

Bertram Herbotelle

26

1448

Tho. Nevill M.

27

1449

Ro. de Woderington

28

1450

Rog. Thornton

29 of Nether Witton Castle, Esq

1451

Joh. Heron

30

1452

Rob. Mitford

31

1453

Joh. Burcester

32

1454

Rob. Maners, Ar.

33 of Etal, Esq

1455

Rad. Grey, Mil.

34 of Heton, Knt.

1456

Joh. Heron, Mil.

35

1457

Rog. Thornton

36

1458

Will. Bertram

37

1459

Rad. Grey Mil.

38

King Edward IV. 4 March, 1460.

1461

Joh. Middleton Mil.

1 of Belsey Castle.

1462

Geo. Lumley Mil.

2 of Lumley Castle, Com. Dunelm.

1463

Geo. Lumley Mil.

3 Knt.

1464

Rob. Manres Mil.

4 of Etal.

1465

Geo. Woderington

5 of Widderington Castle.

1466

Will. Bowes Mil.

6 of Streatlam Cast. Com. Dunelm.

1467

Joh. Nevill Mil.

7

1468

Geo. Lumley Mil.

8

1469

Geo. Lumley

9

1470

Geo. Lumley

10

1471

Geo. Lumley

11

1472

Joh. Woderington

12 of Widderington Castle.

1473

Joh. Woderington

13

1474

Joh. Woderington

14

1475

Hen. Com. North

15

1476

Hen. Com. North.

16

1477

Hen. Com. North.

17

1478

Hen. Com. North.

18

1479

Hen. Com. North.

19

1480

Hen. Com. North.

20

1481

Hen. Com. North.

21

1482

22

King Edw. V. 9 March, 1483, and King Rich. III. 22 July, 1483.

1483

Hen. Com. North.

1

1484

Hen. Com. North. Rad. Hurbottle Sub. v.

2

1485

Rob. Maneret M.

3

King Hen. VII. 22 Aug. 1485.

1486

Hen. Com. North.

1

1487

Hen. Com. North.

2

1488

Hen. Com. North.

3

1489

Nullus Tit. Comitis in hoc Rotulo.

1490, 1491, 1492, 1493

1494

Rog. Fenwick

9 of Fenwick Tower.

1495, 1496

1497

Rob. Grey de Horton Cast. Knt.

12

1498

Geo. Taylbois Mil.

13

1499, 1500, 1501

1502

Edw. Radcliff M.

17 of Cartington, Knt.

1503

18

1504

Rad. Eure Mil.

19 of Kirkley, Knt.

1505

20

1506

Tho. Ilderton Mil.

21 of Ilderton, Knt.

1507

22

1508

Nich. Ridley Arm.

23 of Willemoteswick, Knt.

1509

24

King Hen. VIII. 22 Apr. 1509.

1509

Nich. Ridley Arm.

1

1510

Nich. Ridley

2

1511

Nich. Ridley

3

1512, 1513, 1514

1515

Rad. Fenwick Ar.

7 of Stanton, Knt.

1516, 1517

1518

Chr. Thirkil Ar.

10

1519

Geo. Skelton Ar.

11

1520

Chr. Dacre Mil.

12

1521

Will. Elleker Ar.

13

1522, 1523

1524

Will. Elleker Ar.

16

1525

Will. Heron Mil.

17 of Ford Castle.

1526

Will. Eure Mil.

18 of Kirkley.

1527

Cuth. Ratcliffe Ar.

19 of Cartington.

1528, 1529, 1530, 1531, 1532, 1533, 1534, 1535, 1536, 1537, 1538, 1539, Recorda Manca.

1540

John Woderington

32

1541

Leo. Carnaby M.

33 of Halton Tower.

1542

Joh. de Lavale M.

34 of Delaval Castle, alias Seaton

1543

Tho. Hilton M.

35 Delaval.

1544

Joh. Collingwood

36 of Essington, Knt.

1545

Tho. Hilton M.

37

1546

Joh. Horseley Ar.

38

King Edward VI. 28 Jan. 1546.

1547

Joh. de Lavale M.

1

1548

Tho. Hilton Mil.

2

1549

Joh. Forster M.

3 This year enacted Sheriffs should be accountable in the Exchequer, of Eslington, Knt.

1550

Joh. Gray M.

4

1551

Rob. Collingwood

5

1552

Joh. Witherington, Q. Tho. Grey

6

Queen Mary, 6 June, 1553.

1553

Joh. de Lavale M.

1

Philip and Mary, 15 July, 1554.

1554, 1555, 1556

1557

Rob. Ellerker

4 & 5

1558

Geo. Ratcliffe

5 & 6

Queen Elizabeth, 17 Nov. 1558.

1559

Joh. Witherington

1

1560

Alb. Featherston

2 of Featherston Castle, Knt.

1561

Rob. Lawson Arm.

3 of Rock.

1562

Hen. Percy Mil.

4

1563

Rad. Grey Mil.

5

1564

Tho. Forster Ar.

6 of Etherston.

1565

Tho. de Lavale Ar.

7

1566

Geo. Heron Ar.

8

1567

Cuth. Carnaby Ar.

9 of Halton Tower.

1568

Cuth. Collingwood

10

1569

Rob. Raymes Ar.

11 of Bolam.

1570

Nich. Ridley Ar.

12

1571

Joh. de Lavale M. Geo. Heron M.

13 Heron of Chipchace Castle.

1572

Tho. Forster Ar.

14

1573

Cuth. Carnaby Ar.

15

1574

Tho. Grey Mil.

16 of Heaton.

1575

Rob. de Lavale M.

17

1576

Rob. Midleton

18

1577

Fra. Russel M.

19

1578

Will. Fenwick Ar.

20 of Wallington.

1579

Hen. Witherington

21 of Widdrington Castle, Knt.

1580

Cuth. Colingwood

22 of Eslington.

1581

Joh. Heron Ar.

23

1582

Rad. Grey Ar.

24

1583

Rob. de Lavale Ar.

25

1584

Jam. Ogle Ar.

26

1585

Rich. Radley Ar.

27

1586

Rob. Clauding

28 Clavering of Calleley.

1587

Hen. Anderson Ar.

29

1588

Hen. Anderson Ar.

30

1589

Will. Fenwick Ar.

31

1590

Alex. Featherston Ar.

32 of Featherston Castle.

1591

Rad. Grey Ar.

33

1592

Rob. de Lavale Ar.

34

1593

Rad. Grey Ar.

35

1594

Tho. Bradford Ar.

36

1595

Tho. Bradford Ar.

37

1596

Geo. Muschampe Ar.

38

1597

Edw. Grey Ar.

39

1598

Edw. Grey Ar.

40

1599

Tho. Middleton Ar.

41

1600

Geo. Muschamp Ar.

42 of Barmore.

1601

Edw. Talbot Ar.

43

1602

Nich. Forster Ar.

44 of Bambrough Abbey, Knt.

1603

Will. Selby, jun. Ar.

45

King James I. 24 March, 1603.

1603

Will. Selby, jun. Ar.

1 of Bitlesdon.

1604

Rad. de Lavale Ar.

2

1605

Hen. Widdrington

3

1606

Will. Selby Mil.

4

1607

Geo. Selby Mil.

5

1608

Rad. de Lavale M.

6

1609

Edw. Talbot Ar.

7

1610

Joh. de Lavale Ar.

8

1611

Ra. Grey Mil.

9

1612

Claudius Forster Ar.

10 of Bambrough Abbey.

1613

Rad. Selby Mil

11

1614

Joh. Clavering M.

12

1615

Hen. Anderson M.

13

1616

Will. Selby M.

14

1617

Rob. Brandling

15 of North Gosforth, Knt.

1618

Tho. Middleton Ar.

16

1619

Joh. Fenwicke M.

17 of Wallington.

1620

Mat. Forster Ar.

18 of Etherston.

1621

Rad. de Lavale Ar.

19

1622

Will. Muschampe

20 of Barmore.

1623

Joh. Clavering M.

21

1624

Joh. De Lavale M.

22

1625

23

King Charles I. 27 Mar. 1625.

1625

Cuth. Heron Ar.

1 of Chipchase Castle.

1626

Fra. Brandling Ar.

2

1627

3

1628

Tho. Swinburn M.

4 of Capheaton, Knt. f. Edlingham.

1629

5

1630

Rob. Brandling Ar.

6 of North Go•forth, Knt.

1631

Nich. Townley Ar.

7

1632

Nich. Tempest M.

8

1633

Tho. Middleton Ar.

9

1634

10

1635

Will. Carnaby M.

11 of Halton Tower, Knt.

1636

Will. Witherington

12 of Widdrington Castle, Knt.

1637

Rob. Bewick Ar.

13 Fuller's List of Sheriffs end•.

1638, 1639, 1640, 1641, 1642, 1643, 1644

1645

Joh. Fenwick, Bar.

21

1646, 1647, 1648

King Charles II. 30th Jan. 1648.

1648, 1649, 1650, 1651, 1652

1653

Rob. Middleton, Esq

6 of Belsey Castle.

1654, 1655, 1656, 1657, 1958, 1659, 1660, 1661, 1662, 1663, 1664, 1665

1666

Will. Middleton, Bart.

19 of Belsey Castle.

1667, 1668, 1669, 1670, 1671, 1672

1673

Joh. Forster, Esq

26

1674

Martin Fenwick, Esq

27

1675, 1676, 1677, 1678

1679

Mark Milbanke

32

1680, 1681

1682

Edm. Crayster, of Crayster, Esq

35

1683

Edm. Crayster, Esq

36

1684

James Howard, Esq

37

King James II. 6 Feb. 1684.

1684, 1685

1686

Mark Milbanke, Knt.

3

1687

Rich. Neile, Esq

4

1688

Rich. Neile, Esq and Wm Blackett, Bart.

5

King William and Queen Mary, 13 Feb. 1689.

1689

Will. Blackett, Bart.

1 of Newcastle.

1690, 1691

1692

Joh. Blackett, of Wylam Hall, Esq

4

1693

John Bacon, of Staward Pele, Esq

5

1694

6

1695

Rob. Bewick, of Close House, Esq

7

1696

Rob. Shaftoe, of Benwell, Esq

8

1697

Rob. Mitford, of Mitford, Esq

9

1698

10

1699

Edw. Collingwood, of Byker, Esq

11

1700

12

1701

Joh. Grey, of Howick, Esq

13

1702

14

Queen Anne, 8 Mar. 1702.

1702

Will. Brown, of Bolton, Esq

1

1703

Rob. Lawson, of Cramlington, Esq

2

1704, 1705, 1706

1707

Hen. Ogle, of Eglingham, Esq

6

1708

Rob. Lawson, of Cramlington, Esq

7

1709

1710

Geo. Fletcher, of Rothbury, Esq

9

1711

Joh. Middleton, of Belsey Castle, Bart.

10

1712

Hen. Rawling, Esq

11

1713

Will. Fenwick, of Bywell. Esq

12

1714

Mark Strother, of Kirk Newton, Esq

13

King George I. 1 Aug. 1714.

1714

Mark Strother, of Kirk Newton, Esq

1

1715

Joh. Johnson, of Bebside, Esq

2

1716

Joh. Rogers, of East Denton, Esq

3

1717

Ra. Jennison, of Wolsington, Esq

4

1718

Rob. Shaftoe, of Benwell, Esq

5

1719

Will. Coatsworth

6

1720

Matth. White, of Blagdon, Esq

7

1721

Edw. Delaval

8

1722

Will. Mitford

9

1723

Rob. Mitford, of Mitford, Esq

10

1724

John Coatsworth, of the Hermitage, Esq

11

1725

Alex. Collingwood, of Little Ryle, Esq

12

1726

Rob. Bewick, of Close House, Esq

13

1727

Luke Clennell, of Clennell, Esq

14

King George II. 11 June, 1727.

1728

John Fenwick, of Bywell, Esq

1

1729

Joh. Blackett, of Wylam Hall, Esq

2

1730

Fra. Blake Delaval, Esq

3

1731

Tho. Watson, jun. Esq

4

1732

Walter Calverly Blackett, of Wallington, Esq

5

1733

Joh. Reed, of Chipchace, Esq

6

1734

John Ogle. Esq

7

1735

Hen. Ellison, Esq

8

1736

Hen. Grey, of Howick, Bart.

9

1737

Hen. Ogle, of Causey Park, Esq

10

1738

James Hargrave, of Shawdon, Esq

11

1739

Will. Errington, of Walwick Grange, Esq

12

1740

Geo. Shaftoe Delaval, of Little Bavington, Esq

13

1741

Joh. Strother Kerr, of Fowberry, Esq

14

1742

Anth. Isaacson, of Fenton, Esq

15

1743

Cha. Lorain, of Stanton, Esq

16

1744

James Carr, of Black Heddon, Esq

17

1745

Will. Bacon, of Staward Peele, Esq

18

1746

Lanc. Algood, of Hexham, Esq

19

1747

Will. Ord. of Fenham, Esq

20

1748

Nich. Brown, of Bolton, Esq

21

1749

Gawen Aynsley, jun. of Little Harle, Esq

22

1750

Will. Carr, of Etal, Esq

23

1751

Will. Bigge, of Little Benton, Esq

24

1752

Will. Fenwick, of Bywell, Esq

25

1753

Rob. Fenwick, of Lemington, Esq

26

1754

Rob. Shaftoe, of Benwell, Esq

27

1755

Joh. Swinburne, of Newcastle, Esq

28

1756

Math. White, of Blagdon, Esq

29 created a Baronet 1756.

1757

Edw. Blackett, of West Maffen, Bart.

30

1758

Will. Wilkinson, of Clennell, Esq

31

1759

Abra. Dizon, of Belford Hall, Esq

32

1760

Rob. Bewick, of Close House, Esq

33 Knighted by King George III. on his access.

King George III. 25 Oct. 1760.

1761

Alex. Collingwood, of Unthank, Esq

1

1762

Ra. Bates of Hallowell, Esq

2

1763

Joh. Will. Bacon Forster, of Etherston, Esq

3

1764

Chr. Soulsby Reed, of Chipchase, Esq

4

1765

Math. Forster, of Bolton, Esq

5

1766

Hen. Collingwood, of Cornhill, Esq

6

1767

Hylton Lawson, of Cramlington, Esq

7

1768

Bryan Burrell, of Broome Park, Esq

8

1769

Mich. Pearson, of West Matfen, Esq

9

1770

Joh. Simpson, of Long Horseley, Esq

10

1771

Tho. Cha. Bigge. of Little Benton, Esq

11

1772

Fra. Blake, sen. of Crawley Park, Esq

12 created a Baronet in 1774.

1773

Wm Lowes, of Ridley Hall, Esq

13

1774

Wm Loraine, of Kirkharle, Bart.

14

1775

Walter Trevelyan, of Nether Witton, Esq

15

1776

John Askew, of Pallinsburn, Esq

16

1777

Wm Ord, of Fenham, Esq

17

1778

Tho. Carr, of Eshot, Esq

18

1779

Daniel Craster, of Craster, Esq

19

↵

ITINERARY and INDEX. ADVERTISEMENT.

- WARK CASTLE Page 1

- CARHAM Page 10

- CORNHILL Page 11

- An Account of the Battle of Flodden Field Page 12

- FORD CASTLE Page 19

- A large Plate of the Castle.

- PALLINSBURN Page 21

- ETAL

- TILMOUTH Page 22

- HETON

- TWIZEL CASTLE Page 23

- NORHAM Page 24

- A small Etching of an ancient Sculpture and Inscription Page 25

- A Plate of Norham Castle Page 28

- BERWICK Page 41

- Heads of the ancient Border Laws, notes Page 44

- Conjectures on the Rise of Boroughs, from the Manuscripts of the late Roger Gale, Esq notes Page 48

- Account of the Battle of Bannockburn Page 60

- the Battle of Hallydown Hill Page 69

- the Entry of Margaret Queen of James the Fourth of Scotland, into and passage through this County Page 82

- Representatives in Parliament for this Borough, notes Page 91

- Original Letters of Lord Marchmont on the Union, notes Page 102

- HOLY ISLAND, anciently called Lindisfarn Page 105

- A small Plate of the Castle Page 106

- A large Plate of the south-east Aspect of the Remains of the Abbey Page 111

- Succession of Bishops Page 113

- A small Plate of the north Aspect of the Remains of the Abbey Page 137

- HAGGERSTON Page 152

- KYLOE

- FENWICK AND BEAL

- BELFORD

- BAMBROUGH Page 153

- EDERSTON

- CASTLE OF BAMBROUGH Page 154

- A large Plate of Bambrough

- Ancient Song of the Laidly Worm of Spindleston Heughs, notes Page 162

- An ancient Inquisition of the Rights of Bambrough, notes Page 168

- THE FARN ISLANDS Page 179

- ELLINGHAM Page 185

- EMBLETON Page 186

- ROCK Page 187

- DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE

- A small Plate of the Remains of this Castle

- CRAISTER Page 192

- HOWICK

- ALNWICK Page 193

- A large Plate of A• Castle, drawn and given to this Work by Mr Grose.

- A short Account of the Percy Family Page 219

- Manuscripts of Roger Gale, Esq —Lotter from Mr Gale to Sir John Clerk, and the Answer thereto Page 244

- HULN ABBEY Page 248

- ALNWICK ABBEY Page 252

- A small Plate of the Gateway Tower.

- WARKWORTH Page 257

- ALEMOUTH

- THE CASTLE OF WARKWORTH

- A large Plate of the Remains of Warkworth Castle.

- THE HERMITAGE near Warkworth Page 262

- A small Plate of the •••nt of the Cells

- — of the Efigies on the Cenotaph Page 264

- COQUET ISLAND Page 278

- FELTON

- BRINKBURN PRIORY Page 280

- A small Plate of the Remains of the Abbey.

- NETHER WITTON Page 283

- STANTON

- LONG WITTON

- BOLHAM Page 284

- Gale's Manuscripts.—Letter from Mr Warburton, notes.

- MITFORD Page 285

- A small Plate of the Remains of the Castle

- THE ABBEY OF NEWMINSTER Page 289

- MOLESTON Page 292

- MORPETH

- Representatives in Parliament for this Borough Page 293

- BOTHALL Page 305

- A small Plate of the Castle Page 307

- Plate of the Effigies in the Church.

- SHIPWASH Page 314

- CAMBOIS Page 315

- ASHINGTON

- NEWBIGGIN

- CRESWELL Page 316

- WIDDRINGTON CASTLE Page 317

- CAUSEY PARK Page 318

- LONGHORSLEY Page 319

- COCKLE PARK TOWER

- WHALTON Page 320

- OGLE CASTLE

- KIRKLEY Page 321

- PONTELAND

- WOLSINGTON Page 323

- GOSFORD

- BLAGDON Page 325

- STANNINGTON

- BEDLINGTON Page 326

- BEBSIDE Page 327

- NEWSHAM AND SOUTH BLITH

- CRAMLINGTON Page 328

- BEATON DELAVAL

- A large Plate of the North Front Page 329

- A large Plate of the South Front Page 331

- — of the Mausoleum Page 333

- — of Hartley Haven

- FORD CASTLE described Page 334

- A large Plate, a View of the Forge Page 337

- EACHWICK Page 338

- HARTLEY Page 339

- SEGHILL

- TYNEMOUTH Page 341

- A large Plate of the south-west Aspect of the Remains of the Abbey

- — of the north-west Aspect Page 343

- NORTH SHIELDS Page 356

- WALL'S END Page 360

- CARR VILLE

- Gale's Manuscripts.—Letter from Christopher Hunter, Esq M. D. to Mr. Gale. Page 361

- LITTLE BENTON AND LONG BENTON Page 364

- HEATON Page 365

- BYKER Page 366

- NEWCASTLE

- Gale's Manuscripts.—Letter from Christopher Hunter, Esq M. D. to Mr. Gale, and Answer thereto Page 367

- Representatives in Parliament for Newcastle Page 405

- Table of Mayors and Sheriffs Page 410

- Recorders Page 413

- JESMOND Page 430

- ELSWICK Page 431

- FENHAM

- BENWELL Page 432

- HEDDON Page 439

- NEWBURN Page 440

- A General Review of the State of the County and its Trade Page 444

- Knights of the Shire

- Commissioners named 12 King Henry IV. Page 450

- Sheriffs Page 451

Order of the Plates.

- Engraved Title Page

- Ford Castle to face Page 19

- Lindisfarn Abbey Page 111

- Bambrough Page 155

- Alnwick Page 193

- Warkworth Page 257

- Tomb in Bothal Church Page 313

- Scaton Delaval North Front Page 329

- — South Front Page 331

- Mausoleum Page 333

- Hartley Haven immediately following.

- The Forge at Ford Castle Page 337

- Tynemouth Abbey, S. W. Aspect Page 341

- — N. W. Aspect Page 343

ANCIENT CUSTOMS Which prevail in the COUNTY of NORTHUMBERLAND, WITH CONJECTURES THEREON.
ANCIENT CUSTOMS, &c.

MANY ancient Customs prevail in this County, the familiarity or outward insignificance of which occasion them to pass without much attention: but as they are the strongest traditional memorials of antiquity, I thought them worth collecting, and present them to the Reader with some short Conjectures on their origin, and the historical facts to which they have relation.

Mr Bryant's words are, ‘We talk indeed of ancient times, and times of Antiquity; but that time is most aged which has endured longest, and these are the most ancient days in which we are ourselves conversant. We enjoy now an age of accumulated experience, and we are to make use of the helps which have been transmitted, to dispel the mist which has preceded.’ Letters have afforded the accumulation; before their use, the dissolution of every state was the dissipation of its science and wisdom: arts and collective knowledge were destroyed with the empire in which they flourished, and only a few scattered fragments and distracted ruins remained to save them from total oblivion. By letters we possess the wisdom of all quarters of the earth; times which have preceded their use left us chiefly traditional fragments, scattered abroad in national customs, and provincial names and phrases.

In the course of this Collection I shall remark whatever Mr Bourne, in his "Popular Antiquities," has noticed, with some of the illucidations and judicious constructions given by his late Editor, the Rev. Mr John Brand.

BABBA.

The common and most tender appellation of an infant is Babba. This name Mr Bryant, in his Analysis of ancient Mythology, says, is derived from the exclamation made by the congregation during the ceremony of purification, by passing infants through the fire of Molock. Fire worship was used in this country, and in the Druidical rites such ceremony might be retained; for they held many customs so similar to those of the Hebrews, that it strengthens the idea greatly they were communicated by the Phoenecians, or introduced from Germany, where the Amonians most certainly were well known. The Saxons also introduced their customs; they were worshippers of fire, and might hold such office of purification.

GIFTS to INFANTS.

Children when •••st sent abroad in the arms of the nurse to visit a neighbour, are presented with an egg, salt, and fine bread. The egg was a sacred emblem, and seems a gift well adapted to infancy. Mr Bryant says, ‘An egg, containing in it the elements of life, was thought no improper emblem of the ark, in which were preserved the rudiments of the future world: hence in the Dionusiaca, and in other mysteries, one part of the nocturnal ceremony consisted in the consecration of an egg. By this, as we are informed by Porphyry, was signified the world. It seems to have been a favourite symbol, and very ancient, and we find it adopted among many nations. It was said by the Persians of Oromasdes, that he formed mankind and inclosed them in an egg.’ Cakes and Salt were used in religious rites by the ancients: The Jews probably adopted their appropriation from the Egyptians;
And if thou bring an oblation of a meat offering baken in the oven, it shall be unleavened cakes of fine flour, &c.
Lev. ii. 4.

With all thine offerings thou shalt offer salt.
Ibid. 13.

There was a custom in the Romish church of making a cake in honour of the Holy Virgin's time of child-birth, which was condemned by a canon in the Council of Trullus.[*]

DOUBLING the THUMB.

Children, to avoid approaching danger, are taught to double the thumb within the hand. This was much practised whilst the terrors of witchcraft remained; and even in the beginning of the present century, much of those unhappy prejudices possessed the minds of the vulgar. It was a custom to fold the thumbs of dead persons within the hand, to prevent the power of evil spirits over the deceased; the thumb in that position forming the similitude of the character in the Hebrew Alphabet, which is commonly used to denote the name of God.

NEW YEAR's DAY.

The celebration of New Year's Day is preserved in this country as a rural festival. Gifts are made to children, servants, and dependants, called New Year's Gifts. Mr Bourne quotes what Stillingfleet says, ‘That among the Saxons of the northern nations, the feast of the New Year was observed with more than ordinary jollity;’ and, from Hospinian, says, ‘It was an ancient custom of the Heathens, and afterwards practised by the Christians.’ Servants were exempt from their labour, and partook of the feast and rural sports with their masters: they were presented with tokens of approbation and favour. On certain festivals, the Romans gave pieces of money to travellers and strangers who were present at the sacrifice. On our day of festivity, mirth is excited by a rustic masquerading and playing tricks in disguise: the hide of the ox slain for the winter cheer, is often put on, and the person thus attired, attempts to shew the character of the devil, by every horrible device in his power. All the winter sports seem to express a strong opinion of the ancients, that Genii of very contrary natures prevailed on earth, that the one was constantly concomitant to light as the other was to darkness; and this image of the devil, which is frequently permitted to expel the inhabitants and take possession of the house, is typical of the power of the evil genius, in the season when the sun is longest absent from our hemisphere. This corresponds with the lamentation used by those who held the Elusinian mysteries, and mourned for Adonis. It is very difficult to make any probable determination to what people we owe these customs. In the Roman Saturnalia and Sigillaria, this kind of frolicking was practised. Among the observations made by Mr Brand on Bourne's XIV Chap. he remarks, that there was an ancient custom for young women to go about with a waffail bowl, that is, "a bowl of spiced ale," on New Year's Eve, with some sort of verses that were sung by them in going from door to door. Waffail is derived from the Anglo Sax. 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 that is, "Be in health."

TWELFTH DAY.

The twelfth day after the day of our Saviour's birth is attended with great festivity. There are diversions used in the southern parts of England, which have not reached this northern county. The mirth of the day here consists of feasting and a social intercourse between neighbouring families. Mr Brand makes a happy quotation from Collier's Eccl. Hist. vol. I. p. 163, in his observations on Bourne's Chap. XVII. ‘In the days of King Aelfrid a law was made with relation to the holydays, by virtue of which the 12 days after the nativity of our Saviour were made festivals.’ So much as these feasts have been decried, I cannot see them in the despicable light many modern authors have been pleased to place them. They were the occasion of gathering neighbours together, in good humour with each other, and the means of keeping them on terms of intimacy: friendship and benevolence were thereby increased, and good offices multiplied: public matters at such times were discussed and amicably determined; and those happy effects resulted which tended not only to the advantage of the individual, but to the good of society at large. This age is refined into insipidity: few of the old hospitable days return: sociability is sickened into unmeaning ceremony. In ancient times the bard was brought to the festive hall, to rehearse the Excellencies of our ancestors, to fire the breast with emulation, to inspire noble and bounteous sentiments, and lift us, through example, into an adoption of the character of those heroes and men of honour from whom we were descended: then it was the genial spirit was roused, and benevolence prevailed. The name of friendship is retained in our language, and the real character is somewhere still found to exist; but it is chiefly in middle life; the great and opulent in general have little experience of it: each apparently separates himself from community, and is involved in his own circle. The distinguishing characteristicks, which in former days purchased a man fortune and fame, are become intrinsic trifles, with which he may amuse himself, but purchase little patronage: the vice is contaminating, it is creeping into the vitals of lower life, and where the insipidity will end is beyond modern magic to divine. What would be the consequence, should adverse ages ever bring on exigences of state? The old popular influence of the great no longer existing! the distances between ranks of men still extending their separation! The celebrated fable points out the politics which would prevail with the lowest classes of men, ‘If we are only to be regarded for servility, it is indifferent to us to whom we are servants.’ There is nothing keeps this part of the state within rule, but the fear of still worsning the condition.

BLACK MAILE PAYMENT.

This customary collection of money, corn, and cattle, was taken away in consequence of the accession of King James I. There was a law indeed made in the 43d year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, to restrain the Black Maile Payment, and correct the enormities from whence it arose; but whilst the contentions between the nations continued it had little effect. This was a levy made within this county by the chieftains on the borders, for protections against the depredations made by the robbers and spoil-takers, afterwards called Moss Troopers. The receivers were in league with the banditti.

HEAD PENCE PAYMENT.

This was an exaction made by the Sheriff of Northumberland, amounting to 40l. or more, twice in seven years. It was received for an exemption from attendance at the Sheriff's torn; and thereupon the Lords of Manors held their leet, where the suitors, for their greater convenience, were permitted to attend and make what in the law books is called their Suit Royal. This exaction was totally surpressed by the Statute made in the 23d year of King Hen. VI. c. 7.

I have noticed these two obsolete customs, because not only their names, but also some memorials of them remain on the borders, and in the mountainous parts of the county.

CANDLEMAS DAY.

It is little noted in this county, but by name. Several religious rites were made peculiar to it in the Romish church. In the quotation of St Gregory's Letter, in the notes to p. 27 in the second volume of the work, a reason is given for not abolishing the Pagan ceremonies, in countries where conversion was taking place; but it was commanded to adapt them to christian ceremonies: and this seems to carry with it a strong reason for the similarity there was in many of the ceremonies of the christian church in the first ages and the Pagan rites. Mr Brand, in his observations on Bourne's XIX chap. from Bacon's Reliques of Rome, fo. 164, makes a quotation which informs us, that the Romans, in the service of their God Mars, and his mother Februa, made processions in the city of Rome with lighted torches; the remains of which custom still existing with the vulgar in the time of Pope Sergius: he commanded that it should be converted into an holy office of the christian church, and that the congregation on the same day made their approach to the high altar with lighted tapers, in honour of the Holy Virgin. Those who sigh for the sanctity of the church in such reviews of her ceremonies, must consider this was done to conciliate the minds of those long used in such spectacles and solemn shews; and that an austerity which should at once have abolished such acts, to which almost every mind was prejudiced, would have greatly retarded, if not totally prevented the progress of conversion.

St AGNES' FAST.

It is not yet pointed out when or where this had its rise. It is a fast kept by women desirous of dreaming of their lovers, and thence to derive propitious indications touching wedlock. It is the remains of the old superstition of divination; but why fixed to the day of St Agnes is not to be accounted for.

VALENTINE DAY

is an anniversary day of divination by lots. It is a common saying, that birds on this day choose their mates. It may have relation to some domestic birds, and also rooks and pigeons. The custom now is, that the names of young people are wrote on scrols of paper, and each draws one, confident that marriages are made in heaven, and in full hope the lot of life will be pointed out. What particular attention the allotted swain in former days was obliged to pay the fair one, to whose hands his name had fallen, I have not discovered. Mr Brand, in his observations on Bourne's XXth chap. quotes a passage in Moresin to this purpose: ‘That at this festival, the men used to make the women presents, as upon another occasion the women used to do to the men; but that in Scotland on this day presents were reciprocal.’ Mr Pennant speaks of this custom in Scotland, by which young people try prognostications of their future fortunes in the nuptial state. The first inventor of this custom must have been some benevolent female, who studied to encourage the intercourse of the sexes; for by such means intimacies might arise, productive of love and marriage engagements: or otherwise the first design of those lots was, that those who shared in the dances and diversions, might have their proper partners assigned, without hazarding the confusion and displeasure which must necessarily arise in the liberty of choice.

There was a religious sect of Valentinians, but I find no ceremony used by them or tenet they embraced, which could have any relation to these customs.

SHROVE TIDE.

It is particularly observed. Shrove is derived from Shrive, confession; a preparation enjoined in the Romish church, previous to the duties of Lent. It was particularly prescribed, that all offences should be mutually forgiven, and reconciliation take place, before they entered upon the solemnities of Lent; and this was consequently a day of mutual intercourse and amity. In several ancient Roman Catholic families, the kitchen is opened, and every neighbour and passenger is permitted to enter and fry a pancake, for which the necessary provision is made ready. This seems to be derived from a custom in the refectory of religious houses, where the table was spread on this day for all pilgrims, travellers, and visitants. In Newcastle, Durham, and other places, the great bell of the church is tolled, the servants have holyday, and whoever partakes of the pancakes of the day must fry them; a circumstance which occasions high kitchen mirth. In the keeping of the vigils of all solemn days, the ceremony began at noon. The ringing of the great bell at noon was a signal to clear the larder of flesh meat, from which time its use was prohibited. In Mr Brand's Appendix to Bourne's Pop. Antiq. he says, ‘A kind of pancake feast preceding Lent was used in the Greek church, from whence probably we have borrowed it.’ One of the chief diversions of the day is fighting of cocks. Moresin says this was derived from the Athenians, who exhibited cock fightings on one day in each year, an institution of Themistockley; and that those of the Romish church derived the custom on this day from thence. The inference is ridiculous. It was a general holyday, and this was one of the vulgar dissipations, no otherwise peculiar to the season, than that the animal was in good feather at this time of the year, and in condition for the greatest exertion of powers.

ASH WEDNESDAY.

The name only remains, the peculiar customs are forgotten. Penitents expressed their humiliation by sackcloth and ashes. Fuller in his Church Hist. p. 222, mentions a custom ‘Of giving ashes on Ash Wednesday, to put in remembrance every christian man in the beginning of Lent and Pennance, that he is but ashes and earth, and thereto shall return.’ In the protestant church the commination or service contains a public rehearsal of those curses which we find denounced in the scriptures, and which, with an impious arrogance, we interlard with an amen; (not with a petition for eversion) assuming a right of denunciation and judgment, when humiliation, contrition, and tears would better befit the congregation in the rehearsal of the very curses by which the most of them probably stand condemned.

CARLING DAY.

The second Sunday preceding Easter is called Carling Sunday. The peculiar custom is the serving up parched peas to the table. This seems to be derived from the severities of the Romish church in the early ages, at this period in Lent, in their abstinence and mortification using such food. This was called Passion Sunday; and Mr Brand quotes Marshall on the Saxon Gospels, vol. I. p. 536, where it is said, Care or Carr Sunday was not unknown to the English in his time. Mr Brand adds, It was usual to give away beans in the dole at funerals, both with the Heathen and the people of the Romish church. They are used as a kind of mourning dole on this day. Erasmus mentions an observation of Pliny's, concerning Pythagoras's Interdiction of the use of Beans, "that they contain the souls of the dead." Thence they were used in the Parentalia. Plutarch held, that pulse was of the highest efficacy for invoking the manes. The adoption by Christians can only be reconciled by the preceding arguments touching Heathen rites. The modern Greeks carry in funeral processions parboiled wheat.

PALM SUNDAY.

On this day is still retained the ancient usage of dressing windows with ever-greens, &c. in commemoration of our Saviour's entry into Jerusalem. It was the custom of the ancient Christian church to represent, by solemn shews, even the most tremendous occurrences in the history of our Saviour —a procession with palms was used. In this country the buds of the saugh, which is one of the earliest marks of vegetation the trees of the climate shew, are gathered and adopted for branches of palm. Mr Bourne says, the branch of palm was used in the country near Jerusalem as an emblem of victory. Our adoption of the saugh buds may arise from their being the first bloom the woods wear after winter is subdued, and might be used also typically, from their bearing testimony of renovation, as a sacred emblem of victory over death.

EASTER DAY

is attended with several singular customs. The people rise before the sun, in hopes to see the great luminary ascend the horizon, dancing for joy. This has been an innocent artifice to draw forth the vulgar to early devotion; and what could be more powerfully typical and figurative to ignorant minds that conceive few images of the resurrection of our Lord, than that of a glorious and resplendent sun, rising from a gilded horizon, dispelling every gloom and shade, and dispensing light, beauty, and joy over the face of the earth. It was a season and a spectacle, under the immediate impressions of which, well adapted and pathetic exhortations would take a deep root. The Druids and Saxons both had made it a chief object of worship, and the time of sun rising the chief season for their religious rites and adorations; of these, strong prejudices would remain with the vulgar. Bourne says, the salutation of the eastern church on this day was, "The Lord is risen," and the usual answer was, "The Lord is risen indeed;" and no doubt they were peculiar to the morning.

The children have dyed and gilded eggs given them, which are called Paste Eggs, a supposed corruption of Pasche Eggs. Eggs were held by the Egyptians as a sacred emblem of the renovation of mankind after the deluge. The Jews adopted it to suit the circumstances of their history, as a type of their departure from the land of Egypt; and it was used in the Feast of the Passover as part of the furniture of the table with the paschal lamb. The Christians have certainly used it on this day, as retaining the elements of future life, for an emblem of the resurrection. Mr Brand has many well chosen quotations on this subject, among which is a prayer extracted from the ritual of Pope Paul the Vth, made for the use of England, Ireland, and Scotland.

‘Bless, O Lord, we beseech thee, this thy creature of eggs, that it may become a wholesome sustenance to thy faithful servants, eating it in thankfulness to thee, on account of the resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ, who with thee,’ &c. &c.

He quotes from Dr Chandler's Travels in Asia Minor a passage, in which it appears, those of the Greek church on this day presented coloured eggs. In Russia there is the like custom, which he shews in two quotations, one from the Abbè d' Auteroche, in his Journey to Siberia, and the other from Hakluyt's Voyage 1589. But from all the quotations no determination is drawn why the painted Eggs were used on this day peculiarly, and especially being no part of the day's repast. The field of conjecture is open and at large to every one. It seems as if the Egg was thus decorated for a religious trophy after the days of mortification and abstinence were over, and festivity had taken place; and as an emblem of the renovation of life, certified to us by the resurrection from the regions of death and the grave.

Mr Brand, p. 252, gives us the following note: ‘ Erasmus speaking of the proverb, Mea est Pila, that is, I have got the ball, tells us that it signifies I have obtained the victory, I am master of my wishes.’ The Romanists certainly erected a standard on Easter Day in token of our Lord's victory; but it would perhaps be indulging fancy too far to suppose that the Bishops and Governors of churches, who used to condescend to play at hand ball at this time, did it in a mystical way, and with reference to the triumphal joy of the season. Certain it is, however, that many of their customs and superstitions are founded on still more trivial circumstances than even this imaginary analogy.

It was an ancient custom for the Mayor, Aldermen, and Sheriff of Newcastle, accompanied with great numbers of the Burgesses to go every year at the feasts of Easter and Whitsuntide to the Forth, the little mall of the town, with the maces, sword, and cap of maintenance carried before them. The young people of the town still assemble there, at this season particularly, play at hand ball, dance, &c. but are no longer countenanced in their innocent festivity by the presence of their Governors, who no doubt in ancient times used to unbend the brow of authority, and partake with their happy and contented people, the puerile pleasures of the festive season.

It was also usual among the sports of the day to have foot courses, &c. the prize being a tansey cake. It has been alledged, that the use of tansey was adopted from the Jewish mess of bitter herbs at this season. A discussion of this practice of the Jews would be too tedious in this place, and articles of mortification seem not to correspond with the universal festivity of the time; I rather conceive that the prizes were the ancient sweet bread, concerning the use of which I shall have occasion to make some remarks in the sequel, and that tansey was used for its flavour and salubrity only.

Mr Brand quotes Durand Lib. 6. c. 86. 9. for a very singular and unreasonable custom, ‘That on Easter Day wives used to beat their husbands, and on the day following husbands their wives:" and he adds, "There is a custom still retained at the city of Durham on these holydays, on one day the men take off the women's shoes, which are only to be redeemed by a present, and on another day the women take off the men's in like manner.’ This custom is not a peculiarity of the city of Durham only, but extends into other parts of that county, as well as Northumberland. As it seems to be the remains of some religious ceremony, if peculiar to the cathedral it would probably travel with the See from Lindisfarn by Chester to Durham, and its remains would be found scattered through this passage. In Lancashire the custom of the day is to lift the passenger from the ground: this shews of itself of what it is emblematical. But our custom leaves us wide and indeterminate conjectures. In the cathedral of Durham there was a custom on Good Friday for the Monks to approach the high altar, then decorated with all the solemn emblems of that tremendous day, on their knees, being bare footed. On Easter Day they made a solemn procession, when all the spectators pulled off their shoes, as treading on holy ground. King Canute approached the shrine of St. Cuthbert from Garmondsway, the distance of five miles, with all his retinue and attendants bare-footed; when he gave great territories and donations to that church. Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 331. These are the most memorable circumstances I have been able to collect. Preparatory to the passover, our Saviour washed the feet of the Disciples; after which he gave them this ordonance: "For I have given you an example, that you should do as I have done to you." The Monks of Durham are said to have washed the feet of the poor, within the cloister, in commemoration of our Saviour's act. In the ages immediately succeeding the conversion of the Britons, an inveterate hatred and contempt was shewn to all Jews, who by shipwreck or other casualty came among them; even to a greater bitterness the aversion was carried, than against the unconverted Heathen. The order of the passover ceremonies, as set forth in the 12th chapter of Exodus, enjoins the Jews to have their shoes upon their feet: perhaps in contradistinction, or in reproach of the Jews, the shoes of passengers are pulled off.

SWEET BREAD.

I intimated in the preceding pages, an intention of remarking the Sweet Bread used in religious rites. Small loaves of bread, peculiar in their form, being long and sharp at both ends, are called Buns. This name takes place where old religious ceremonies have been solemnized, derived from the consecrated sweet bread, which was offered on high festivals. It is of the highest antiquity; according to Mr Bryant, ‘the offerings which people in ancient times used to present to the Gods, were generally purchased at the entrance of the temple; especially every species of consecrated bread, which was denominated accordingly. One species of sacred bread which used to be offered to the Gods, was of great antiquity, and called Boun. The Greeks who changed the Nu final into a sigma, expressed it in the nominative 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, but in the accusative more truly Boun, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Hesychius speaks of the Boun, and describes it a kind of cake with a representation of two horns. Julius Pollux mentions it after the same manner, a sort of cake with horns. Diogenes Laertius, speaking of the same offering being made by Empedocles, describes the chief ingredients of which it was composed: "He offered up one of the sacred liba, called a Boun, which was made of fine flour and honey. It is said of Cecrops, he first offered up this sort of sweet bread. Hence we may judge of the antiquity of the custom, from the times to which Cecrops is referred. The prophet Jeremiah takes notice of this kind of offering, when he is speaking of the Jewish women at Pathros in Egypt, and of their base idolatry; in all which their husbands had encouraged them; the women in their expostulation upon his rebuke tell him, Did we make her cakes to worship her? &c. Jer. xliv. 18, 19. lb. vii. 18.’ Bryant's Analysis, vol. I. p. 297. The sacred cakes which were offered at the Arkite temples were styled Boun, and were presented upon every seventh day. Bryant, vol. II. The custom of hot Cross Buns in London, on the morning of Good Friday, seems to have relation to these ancient practices: We only retain the name and form of the Boun; the sacred uses are no more.

HAGMANA.

The Rev. Mr Lambe, Vicar of Norham, Editor of the poem of Flodden Fight, in his ingenious notes thereto, says, ‘We may find in the North the traces of some words left us by the Romans: For example; the month of of December is called Hagmana, derived from the Greek Hagia mene, the holy moon.’

ISCA.

‘When the Shepherds call their Dogs, it is usual with them to cry Isca, Isca; which is evidently an abbreviation of Lycisca, the name of the Roman Shepherd Dog.’—Multum latrante Lycisca. Virg. Ecl. 3.

HOCK-TIDE.

Hock-days Þucx-daeg Dies irrisorius, a time of scorning or triumphing: a festival of the common people held soon after Easter. The servants had liberty of divers sports and diversions, and in compensation for the loss of time in their service, the masters were intitled to a gratuity. It was held in commemoration of the day on which the Danes were massacred, A. D. 1002; and such were the licentious enormities committed therein, the servants deeming themselves, during this festival, under no law of subordination, that it was prohibited by the church in the fifteenth century, under pain of excommunication. The remains of this festival seem to be retained in our fools day, the 1st of April, when all sorts of ridiculous tricks are practiced to render the person you meet with a scoff and jest: it may be presumed the persons who, from their connections and intercourse with the Danes, lamented the horrid slaughter were thus scoffed and ridiculed; and those who were ignorant of the event, sent on fruitless errands to their dying friends, weltering in gore. Such was the savage barbarity of the times, and the ferocity of our progenitors. These errands are called Sleveless Errands, which Skinner construes Lifeless Errands.

MAY-DAY.

It still retains some of its ancient sports. The young people of both sexes go out early in the morning of the 1st day of May, to gather the flowering thorns and the dew of the grass, which they bring home with music and acclamations; and having dressed a poll on the town-green with garlands, dance around it. The dew was considered as a grand cosmetick, and preserved the face from wrinkles, blotches, and the traces of old age: the happiest gift Flora could bestow on her votaries. It seems from these remains, that this festival was introduced by the Romans, who observed it in honour of Flora. What particular rites originally attended it with that people we shall not enquire: at present it is celebrated only with mirth, innocence, and love. The Druids, who were the priests of the God of nature, and celebrated every remarkable period in the change of seasons, left a memorial of their religious rites on this day, very different from those instituted in honour of the notorious divinity Flora; that is, a Bel-tein rural sacrifice. It is to be traced in the mountainous and uncultivated parts of Cumberland, among the Cheviots, and in many parts of Scotland. Mr Pennant gives a particular description in his Tour in Scotland: ‘On the first of May, in the Highlands of Scotland, the herdsmen of every village hold their Beltein: they cut a square trench in the ground, leaving the turf in the middle: on that they make a fire of wood, on which they dress a large caudle of eggs, butter, oatmeal, and milk, and bring, besides the ingredients of the caudle, plenty of beer and whisky; for each of the company must contribute something. The rites begin with spilling some of the caudle on the ground, by way of libation; on that every one takes a cake of oatmeal, upon which are raised nine square knobs, each dedicated to some particular being, the supposed preserver of their flocks and herds, or to some particular animal, the ••al destroyer of them; each person then turns his face to the fire, breaks off a knob, and flinging it over his shoulder, says, this I give to thee, preserve thou my horses; this to thee, preserve thou my sheep, and so on. After that they use the same ceremony to the noxious animals: this I give to thee, O fox! spare thou my lambs: this to thee, O hooded crow! this to thee, eagle! when the ceremony is over, they dine on the caudle,’ &c.

We retain something of this kind in the syllabub, prepared for the May feast, which is made of warm milk from the cow, sweet cake, and wine; and a kind of divination is practised, by fishing with a ladle for a wedding ring, which is dropt into it for the purpose of prognosticating who shall be first married.

Mr Brand, in his Observations on Bourne's XXV chap. makes several quotations from a pamphlet, intitled, "The way to things by words, and to words by things." He says, ‘We gather from him that our ancestors hold an anniversary assembly on May-day; the Column of May (whence our May Pole) was the great standard of justice in the Ey-commons or fields of May. Here it was that people, if they saw cause, deposed or punished their Governors, their Barons, their Kings. The garland or crown when hung on the top of the May or Pole, was the great signal for convening the people. This was one of the ancientest customs, which from the remotest ages, has been by repetition from year to year perpetuated.’ ‘It was considered as the boundary day that divided the confines of winter and summer, allusively to which, there was instituted a sportful war between two parties; the one in defence of the continuance of winter, the other for bringing in the summer. The youth were divided into troops, the one in winter livery, the other in the gay habit of the spring. The mock battle was always fought booty, the spring was sure to obtain the victory, which they celebrated by carrying triumphally green branches with May flowers, proclaiming and singing the song of joy, of which the burthen was in these or equivalent terms.’

"We have brought the summer home."

PAROCHIAL PERAMBULATION

was a practice introduced by and adopted from the Romans, who held an annual feast of Terminalia; they were singularly observant of the bounds of their property, and there, as the most solemn mode of distinction, made their places of sepulchre, and erected altars. In later ages, the companies who went on the perambulation were attended by the parish priest, and at every boundary mark, which was distinguished by a stone cross, a prayer was put up for a fruitful season, and protection against the evils of pestilence and dearth. This custom and prayer have lately been disused, since we grew afraid of appearing religious, least we should be accused of having superstition.

MIDSUMMER.

The ceremonies of the eve and day of Midsummer were various, and worthy attention. In all these festivals, it was the custom to keep the wake, as it was called, or watch, 'till after midnight, and to begin the sports and ceremonies of the day in the first hour of the morning.

The summer •o••tice was the grand festival and jubilee of the Druids, and all those who retained any of the Amonian rites, of which we trace several in the religious ceremonies of the Saxons. This day was celebrated with peculiar magnificence and solemnity, when the adored luminary was at his greatest altitude. It has been alledged by some, that the Elusinian rites, in celebrating the return of Proserpine, gave part of the ceremony of this day; and that the use of garlands is derived from the custom of the initiated in the Elusinian misteries, being crowned with flowers.

It is usual to raise fires on the tops of high hills and in the villages, and sport and dance around them; this is of very remote antiquity, and the first cause lost in the distance of time. Many reasons have been assigned in different periods. Bourne quotes a passage of Durand to the following purport, ‘In ancient times the dragons, being incited to lust through the heat of the season, did frequently as they flew through the air, spertmatize in the wells and fountains; by this means the water became infected, and the air polluted, so that whoever drank the waters was either tormented with a grievous distemper, or lost his life. As soon as the physicians perceived this, they ordered fires to be made every where about the wells and fountains, and those things which occasioned the noisomest smell to be burnt, knowing that thereby the dragons would be driven away: and forasmuch as this custom was observed about the time we now celebrate St John Baptist's feast, it is therefore still observed among some people.’ In this enigmatical and misterious account we plainly trace, the fires were originally kindled for sacred rites and sacrifice, in order to avert the horrors of pestilence, which in early ages frequently attended the advancing heat of summer, in a country covered with forests and swamps, whose respiration and exhalations brought on various distempers, of which Epilepsies was one of the most general; to prevent which, the darkness of those times had received few discoveries of medicine. In Scotland they used to run about the mountains and higher grounds with lighted torches, like the Sicilian women of old in scarch of Proserpine.— The prophetesses in Mona, at the approach of the Romans, ran about with dishevelled hair in a frantic mode with lighted torches, performing various rites to execrate the enemy. It was a custom not many years ago in this county, for the villagers to run with burning firebrands round their fields, and then in a forcible manner taking the ashes from some neighbouring fire, they used to exclaim, "We have won the flower (alias flour) of the wake." Moresin conceives we trace the ancient Cerealia in this ceremony. It is not to be wondered, that the Druid rites should in course of time be mixed with the Roman. Mr Borlace, speaking of this custom in Wales, says, ‘He takes it to be the remains of the Druid superstition.’ Moresin is of opinion, the custom of leaping over the fires is a vestige of the ordeal, and those performing these feats were shewing tokens of innocence and virtue, by being neither burnt or sullied. The act of leaping through the flames was certainly a religious one, and was meant as a kind of purification, and not merely a sport and display of agility. Mr Pennant mentions another remarkable custom in Scotland, of which he was an eye witness: they take the new baptized infant, and wave it three or four times gently over a flame, saying thrice, "Let the fire consume thee now or never:" this seems to be the direct act of purification in passing the fire of Molock. Like other heathenish customs appropriated to festivals of the christian church, these are adopted on the day of St John, or rather used on the same anniversary, and the name of that Saint assumed to give them new sanctity. Mr Brand quotes several passages from Gebelin's Allegories Orientales: ‘Can one (says he) overlook here the St John fires, kindled about midnight, on the very moment of the solstice, by the greatest part both of ancient and modern nations? A religious ceremony, which goes backward thus to the most remote antiquity, and which was observed for the prosperity of States, and to dispel every kind of evil.’ Divinations were also used on the vigil of this day: ‘Men and women were accustomed to gather together in the evening by the sea side, or in some certain houses, and there adorn a girl, who was her parent's first begotten child, after the manner of a bride. Then they feasted, and leaped after the manner of bacchanals, and danced and shouted as they were wont to do on their holidays; after this they poured into a narrow necked vessel, some of the sea water, and put also into it certain things belonging to each of them; then, as if the devil gifted the girl with the faculty of telling future things, they would enquire with a loud voice, about the good or evil fortune that should attend them; upon this the girl would take out of the vessel the first thing that came to hand, and shew it and give it to the owner, who, upon receiving it, was so foolish as to imagine himself wiser, as to the good or evil fortune that should attend him.’ Bourne, p. 226.

Another custom used on this day, is to dress out stools with a cushion of flowers. A lair of clay is placed on the stool, and therein is stuck, with great regularity, an arrangement of all kinds of flowers, so close as to form a beautiful cushion: these are exhibited at the doors of houses in the villages, and at the ends of streets and cross lanes of larger towns, where the attendants beg money from passengers, to enable them to have an evening feast and dancing. This custom is evidently derived from the Ludi Compitalii of the Romans: this appellation was taken from the Compita or cross lanes, where they were instituted and celebrated by the multitude assembled before the building of Rome. Servius Tullius revived this festival after it had been neglected for many years. It was the feast of the Lares or houshold Gods, who presided as well over houses as streets. This mode of adorning the seat or couch of the Lares was beautiful, and the idea of reposing them on aromatic flowers and beds of roses was excellent. The chief port of the ceremonies and solemnities of this feast used by the Romans, as we are told by the Poets and Historians, was exhibiting the houshold Gods, crowning and adorning them with chaplets and garlands of flowers, and offering sacrifices up and down the streets. The British remains of the ceremony are more refined—that of reposing them on those delicious beds. Suetonius tells us, that Augustus ordered the Lares to be crowned twice a year. We are not told there was any custom among the Romans, of strangers or passengers offering gifts. Our modern usage of all these old customs terminates in seeking to gain money for a merry night.

SHEEP-SHEARING.

The Sheep-shearing festival retains nothing singular, and is too well known to require any animadversions.

The WAKE.

The Country Wake or Feast Day, called in some places the Hopping, is the ancient Feast of Dedication. Vide notes, vol. II. p. 26.

MELL SUPPER.

After harvest the Heathens are said to have sacrificed to the Deity Vacina or Vacuna, who was supposed to preside over Rest and Ease. It is now a custom on the last day of reaping, to dress up an image of the corn, and bear it home in triumph, which is called the Kern (properly Corn) Baby. In some places I have seen an image apparelled in great finery, crowned with flowers, a sheaf of corn placed under her arm, and a scycle in her hand, carried out of the village on the morning of the conclusive reaping day, with music and much clamour of the reapers into the field, where it stands fixed on a poll all day, and when the reaping is done, is brought home in like manner: This they call the Harvest Queen, and represents the Roman Ceres. The servants having performed the most valuable part of their labour, are entertained by their masters, when all distinction is laid aside. This feast is called the Mell-Supper, at which there are dancing, masquing, and disguising, and all other kinds of rural mirth. The name of this supper is derived from the rites of Ceres, when an offering of the first-fruits was made; the word Melle being a provincial word, and signifies in this country mingled; implying that the cakes used at this festival are mingled or made of new corn, and that it is the feast of the first mingling of flour of the new reaped wheat. The Romans held a solemn day after harvest, dedicated to Ceres and Ops, the accustomed victim a boar: but we cannot from any part of the above rural feast gather the least Roman remains, save only the season and the image of the Goddess. The rejoicing after harvest may have an origin as high in antiquity as reaping itself: The first instance we read of is in the 4th chapter of Genesis, ver. 3, 4.

SEMESLINS.

We have a kind of cake mixed with fruit, called Semeslins. The Romans prepared sweet bread for their feasts held at seed time, when they invoked the Gods for a prosperous year. In Lancashire they are called Semens. We have the old French word still in use in heraldry, semèe, descriptive of being sown or scattered.

Many Customs are retained in Winter.

ALLHALLOW MASS.

The 1st day of November seems to retain the celebration of a festival to Pomona, when it is supposed the summer stores are opened on the approach of winter. Divinations and consulting of omens attended all those ceremonies, in the practice of the Heathen: Hence in the rural sacrifice of Nuts, propitious omens are sought touching Matrimony; if the Nuts lie still and burn together, it prognosticates a happy marriage or a hopeful love; if on the contrary they bounce and fly asunder, the sign is impropitious. I do not doubt but the Scotch fires kindled on this day, anciently burnt for this rural sacrifice.

MARTINMAS

has no peculiar celebration now remaining: We are told by Moresin, that the Heathen held the festival of Bacchus at this season; and without remembering the jolly God, the jovial service long remained in the northern counties. Within half a century it was held as a season of great mirth and jollity.

CHRISTMAS

has still many peculiar customs: The Saltatio Armata, the Pyrrhick or Military Dance of the Romans, is still preserved; men dressed out with ribbands perform a Sword Dance, and gather gifts for a merry night.

Others, in the same kind of gay attire, draw about a Plough, called the Stot Plough, and when they receive a gift, make the exclamation, Largess! but if not requited at any house for their appearance, they draw the plough through the pavement, and raise the ground of the front in furrows. I have seen 20 men in the yoke of one plough.

These are perfect remains of Roman customs: Mr Brand quotes the following passage, ‘Aratrum inducere moris fuit Romanis, cum urbem aliquam evertissent, ut eam funditus delerent,’ Vocab. utriusque juris a Scot. J. C. in Verb. Aratrum. It may have been practised by the Romans in commemoration of the founding of Rome, or some cities in Britain.

"Interea Aeneas urbem designat aratro."

Virgil Aeneides, lib. 5. p. 261. l. 755.

‘Quem Cato in originibus dicat morem fuisse condituri enim civitates, taurum in dextra, vaccam in sinistra jungebant; et cincti ritu sabino, id est togae parte capitis velati, parte succincti, tenebant stivam obliquam, ut glebae omnes intrinsecus caderent, et ita sulco ducto loca designabant murum, aratrum suspendentes circa loca portarum. Unde & territorium dictum est, quasi tritorium, tritum bubus et aratro.’

The Stot Plough has been conceived by some to have no other derivation, than a mere rural triumph, the plough having ceased from its labour.

YULE CLOG.

On the eve of the Nativity, the peasants place upon the fire a large piece of wood, called a Yule Clog; some have looked upon this as a rural sacrifice, the beast being stalled, there is no further use for the tether clog, by which he was prevented straying in the summer from his pasture. It has had a more distant implication, and intended to keep up the wake, and drive away malevolent spirits, and spirits of darkness. The Druids held a solemn festival at this time, and fires were lighted to fill up the space between the last night and first morning of the year, that the evil genius might not prevail. The Elusinian mysteries were typical of the renewing year; and the howlings and lamentations made in the hours of darkness for the loss of Adonis, were like our solemn wake over the yule clog, which was to banish the spirits of darkness whilst the sun was in his deepest recess. In those rites, the return of Adonis, or the sun, was represented by the approach of a Priest with a lighted torch, thereby dispelling the horrid darkness, in which the prevalency of the evil genius was described by horrid noises, and all the dreadful spectacles ingenuity could devise, to secure the superstition of the assembly. Among all nations there has appeared a prevalent superstition touching good and evil spirits, one superintending the hours of light, the others darkness; one the guides of man's rectitude and virtues, the other his malevolence and vice.

On the word Yule or Gule, there have been innumerable controversies with the learned, from whose arguments I am induced to believe it is a word derived from the old British language, and implies a Festival; and thence that Yule Clog expresses the festive fuel.

The Yule Baby was a sweetmeat image given to children, in commemoration of our Saviour's nativity.

The windows are dressed with evergreens, as typical of our Saviour, who was called the Branch of Righteousness, that liveth for ever: also as memorials of his promises, and our victory over death.

CHRISTMAS BOX.

Gifts to servants and mechanics, for their good services in the labouring part of the year. The paganalia of the Romans, instituted by Servius Tullius, were celebrated in the beginning of the year: an altar was erected in each village, where all persons gave money. This was a mode originally devised for gaining the number of inhabitants.

The DEAD.

Customs attending Death and Funerals are well known, and their origin of no very distant antiquity; so that I will avoid a subject so peculiarly melancholy and affecting, save only the Arvel Dinner.

On the decease of any person possessed of valuable effects, the friends and neighbours of the family are invited to a dinner on the day of interment, which is called an Arthel or Arvel Dinner. Arthel is a British word, and is frequently more correctly written Arddelw. In Wales it is written Arddel, and signifies, according to Dr. Davise's Dictionary, Asserere, to avouch. This custom seems of very distant antiquity, and was a solemn festival made at the time of publicly exposing the corps, to exculpate the heir, and those intitled to the possessions of the deceased, from fines and mulcts to the Lord of the Manor, and from all accusation of having used violence; so that the persons then convoked might avouch, that the person died fairly, and without suffering any personal injury. The Dead were thus exhibited by ancient nations, and perhaps the custom was introduced here by the Romans.

FINIS.

Notes

*
Bou
•••
P

•

p. Antiq p.
•
04, quoted Can. 80. Trul. Bal.
↵

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Title statement

A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson: [pt.2]

Hutchinson, William, 1732-1814.

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http://ota.ox.ac.uk/id/4837

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1106018362

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9781106018366

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K080053.002

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CW3300090396

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0085300202

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— A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson, Hutchinson, William, 1732-1814.. 2v.,plates ; 4⁰. Newcastle :: printed by T. Saint, for W. Charnley, and Messrs Vesey & Whitfield,. 1778 [1779?]. [The dedication is dated 1779.] [The dedication and the titlepages to each volume are engraved.] [Includes: 'A state of the churches under the Archdeaconry of Northumberland, ..and 'Ancient customs which prevail in the county .. '.] [Vol. 2 was reissued around 1795 by John Catnach of Alnwick, and its cancel title reads 'The history of the following places in Northumberland'.] [Reproduction of original from the British Library.] [English Short Title Catalog, ESTCT99506.] [Electronic data. Farmington Hills, Mich. : Thomson Gale, 2003. Page image (PNG). Digitized image of the microfilm version produced in Woodbridge, CT by Research Publications, 1982-2002 (later known as Primary Source Microfilm, an imprint of the Gale Group).]

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