A tour through Sweden, Swedish-Lapland, Finland and Denmark: In a series of letters, illustrated with engravings. By Matthew Consett, Esq.

Table of contents

- [frontispiece]

- [titlepage]

- TO Sir HENRY GEORGE LIDDELL, Bart.

- LIST of SUBSCRIBERS.

- CONTENTS.

- [listofplates]

- LETTER I.

- LETTER II.

- LETTER III.

- LETTER IV.

- LETTER V.

- LETTER VI.

- LETTER VII.

- LETTER VIII.

- LETTER IX.

- LETTER X.

- LETTER XI.

- LETTER XII.

- LETTER XIII.

- LETTER XIV.

- LETTER XV.

- LETTER XVI.

- LETTER XVII.

- LETTER XVIII.

- LETTER XIX.

- LETTER XX.

- LETTER XXI.

- LETTER XXII.

- LETTER XXIII.

- LETTER XXIV.

- LETTER XXV.

- LETTER XXVI.

- LETTER XXVII.

- LETTER XXVIII.

- LETTER XXIX.

- LETTER XXX.

- LETTER XXXI.

- LETTER XXXII.

- LETTER XXXIII.

- LETTER XXXIV.

- LETTER XXXV.

- LETTER XXXVI.

- LETTER XXXVII.

- LETTER XXXVIII.

- LETTER XXXIX.

- LETTER XL.

- APPENDIX.

- LETTER XLI.

A TOUR THROUGH SWEDEN.

END OF THE TOUR.

Viewing the Midnight Sun at TORNAO in LAPLAND.

A TOUR THROUGH SWEDEN, SWEDISH-LAPLAND, FINLAND AND DENMARK. IN A SERIES OF LETTERS, ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS.

By MATTHEW CONSETT, Esq.

STOCKTON: Printed by R. CHRISTOPHER, for the Author, 1789. And Sold by W. GOLDSMITH, Paternoster Row; and T. LEWIS, Russell Street, Covent Garden, LONDON.

TO Sir HENRY GEORGE LIDDELL, Bart.

SIR,

THE Author of the following Tour, cannot with so much propriety inscribe it to any one as to you, by whose means it was undertaken, and whose presence rendered it so agreeable. To make that pleasure more permanent in his own breast, induced the Author to commit his remarks to paper, and the Indulgence of his Friends has contributed to make them public. For this reason, he sends the following Volume forth, "with all its Imperfections on its head"; and if it shall at any time fill up a leisure hour for those whom he so highly respects, and to whom he takes this opportunity of acknowledging the greatest Obligations, he hopes, though they may not find much to applaud, that their time will, at least, have been innocently employed.

I am, SIR, with much deference and respect, your obliged humble Servant, MATTHEW CONSETT.

LIST of SUBSCRIBERS.

A

- SIR George Armitage, Bart.

- George Allan, Esq. F. A. S Darlington 2 copies

- William Ambler Esq. Durham

- — Adams Esq. M. P.

- Rev. C. Anstey, Vicar of Norton

B

- Thomas Davison Bland Esq. Kippax-park, 4 copies

- Mrs. Bland, 2 copies

- Coll. Bowater

- Calverly Bewick, Esq. Closehouse

- William Borwick Esq. London

- — Biss Esq. Sunderland, 2 co.

- Rev. John Brewster, Stockton

- George Brown Esq. Stockton

- George Brown Esq. London

- Thomas Bowes Esq. Durham

- Smith Burke Esq. Durham

- Adam Boulby Esq. York

C

- Hon. General Cary, Levengrove

- William Chaloner Esq. Guisbrough, 2 copies

- Mrs. Chaloner

- Rev. Dr. Cooper Kirby-overblow

- Mrs. Cooper

- Edward Collingwood Esq. Chirton

- Thomas Chapman Esq. F. A. S. London, 2 copies

- Henry Clarke Esq. Whitby 2 co.

- Edward Cleaver Esq.

- Mr. Cornwell, London

- Mr. R. Christopher, Stockton

- Thomas Crathorne Esq. York

D

- Thomas Smith Duck Esq. London

- Mrs. Davison, Roe-hampton. 2 copies

- Rev. George Davison, Scruton

- Captain Dixon

- Mrs. Dixon

- Rev. Mr. Davison, Brancepeth

- Matthew Dodsworth Esq.

E

- Rev. Dr. Ekins, Dean of Carlisle

- Sir John Eden Bart. M. P.

- Henry Ellison Esq. Hebron-hall

- Dr. Emily 2 copies

- Mr. Evans, London

F

- Sir William Foulis Bart.

- John Robinson Foulis Esq.

- Thomas Fishburne Esq. Whitby

- Robert Fowler Esq.

- Jonathan Fowler Esq. Stockton

G

- Charles Grey Esq. M. P.

- Henry Gale Esq. Scruton

- Francis Gibson Esq. Whitby

- Mr. Garth, Durham

H

- Christopher Hill Esq. Sunderland

- Hendry Hopper Esq. Durham

- Anthony Hall Esq.

- Elias Hervey Esq.

- Ralph Hoar Esq. York

- William Hutchinson Esq. F. A. S. Barnardcastle

- Mr. Havelock, Sunderland

- Mr. Hayman, London

- — Hutton Esq.

- Anthony Hopper Esq. Newcastle

- Christopher Hopper, Esq. Durham

- Richard Hopper Esq. Durham

- Mr. Hunter, Bookseller, Whitby

J

- Mathew Jackson Esq Guisbrough

- Francis Johnson Esq. Gray's Inn

- John Johnson Esq. Gray's Inn

- C. Ibbetson, Esq. Cocken

K

- Kirkleatham Library

L

- Earl of Lincoln, 2 copies

- Sir Henry George Liddell Bart. 4 copies

- Lady Liddell, 2 copies

- Sir John Lawson Bart.

- William H. Lambton Esq. M. P.

- Ralph Lambton Esq.

- William Lowes Esq.

- Edward Lascelles Esq.

- Captain Lascelles

- Re v. Rob. Lascelles, Rector of Middleton

- Benjamin Lumley Esq. Stockton

- William Leighton Esq. Charlton, Essex

M

- Earl of Mexborough

- Countess of Mexborough

- Lord Mulgrave

- Viscountess Melbourne

- Sir Ralph Milbanke Bart. 2 copies

- Ralph Milbanke Esq. 2 copies

- Hon. Mrs. Milbanke

- Sir William Milner Bart. M. P.

- Lady Milner

- R. S. Milnes Esq. M. P.

- John Milnes Esq. Wakefield

- — Milnes Esq. Thorn-house

- — Mills Esq. Leeds

- — Milne, M. D. Newcastle

- Edward Meynell Esq. Yarm

- — Metcalfe Esq.

- Mrs. Mellish

- Mr. Christopher Mawre, Stockton

- Thomas Mitchel Esq. York

N

- Rev. William Nessfield

- Mr. Newton

- Mr. Francis Newberry, London

P

- Hon, Henry Phipps M. P.

- Hon. Captain Phipps

- Thomas Pennant Esq. 5 copies

- Rev. E. Parker, Durham

- George Pearson Esq. Durham

R

- Marchioness of Rockingham

- Rev. Mr. Ramsden

- William Richardson Esq. Whitby

- Rev. Mr. Richardson Vicar of Witton Gilbert

- Joseph Ritson Esq. London

- Mrs. Ross

- Mrs. Rook, Upton

- Hon. Lady Ramsden, 2 copies

S

- Sir Martin Stapylton Bart.

- Hon. R. L. Savile, M. P.

- John Smyth Esq. M. P.

- Robert Shaftoe Esq. M. P.

- William Sotheron Esq. M. P.

- Thomas Steel Esq. M. P. 2 cop.

- Richard Stonehewer Esq.

- Robert Shuttleworth Esq.

- Mr. Southgate, London

- Rev. Mr. Southgate, ditto

- Rev. Dr. Shaftoe, Rector of Brancepeth

- — Storey Esq. Newcastle

- — Scott Esq.

- George Sutton Esq. Stockton

- Captain Sutton, ditto

- Charles Sleigh Esq. ditto

- William Sleigh Esq. ditto

- Samuel Smith Esq. ditto

- Charles Spearman Esq. Durham

- John Thomas Stanley Esq. Edinburgh

- Mr. Sanderson, Sunderland

- Pinckney Simpson Esq. Richmond

- Mr. Spilsbury, London

T

- John Tempest Esq. M. P. 4 copies

- Mrs. Tempest

- John Tempest, junior, Esq.

- John Tweddel Esq. Unthank

- — Townshend Esq.

- Lady Elizabeth Townshend

- Mrs. Townshend

- Marm. Tunstal Esq. F. A. S. Wycliff, 2 copies

- Rev. George Taylor, London

- Mr. J. Todd, York, 4 copies

W

- Lord Wentworth

- Lady Williamson

- Robert Ward Esq. London

- Rev. Mr. Ward

- Peregrine Wentworth Esq.

- Rowland Webster Esq. Stockton

- Dr. Wynne

- Timothy Williamson Esq. London

- George Wilson Esq. Snaresbrook

- — Wilson Esq.

- Mrs Wilson

- John Wilkinson, senior, Esq. Stockton

- William Wilkinson Esq. Streatham-common

- — Wilkinson Esq. 2 copies

- — Wilkinson Esq.

- Captain Wynne

- John Wharton Esq. Skelton Castle

- John Wilkinson, junior, Esq. Stockton

- Miss Wilkinson, Roe-hampton

- John Wear Esq. Stockton

- Captain Wayne, Stokesley

- Mr. R. Walker, Stockton

- Mr. Wye, London

- Mr Whitrowe, London

- — Wilkinson Esq. Durham

Y

- Henry Walker Yeoman Esq. Whitby

CONTENTS.

- LETTER I. INTRODUCTION. Page 1

- LETTER II. Voyage to Sweden.—Town of Gottenburgh.—Swedish Ladies. Page 5

- LETTER III. A Swedish dinner.—country excursion.—Swedish Ordnance.—Soldiers.—A country Seat.—Cattle, Horses, &c. Page 9

- LETTER IV. Journey from Gottenburgh to Stockholm.—Vadebaka.—Good roads.—Lidkioping.—Lake Wenner. — Cataract.—Enebacken.—Mariestadt.—Blacksta. — Stromsholm.—Kings-stables.—Tibla—Stockholm. Page 14

- LETTER V. Stockholm.—Opera.—Citadel.—Charles 12th's clothes — St. Nicholas' church.—Redesholm church.—Dinner at the English Resident's. Page 19

- LETTER VI. Swedish Ladies.—Music.—Education of Youth. Page 24

- LETTER VII. Diet of Sweden. 1. The Nobles. 2. The Clergy. 3. The Burgers. 4. The Peasants. Page 28

- LETTER VIII. King of Sweden—last revolution—his manner, behaviour and person—erects distilleries—failure of his Scheme. Page 32

- LETTER IX. Diet refuses the King's demands—he retires to his camp — dispute settled.—King's Character and manner of rewarding merit. Page 35

- LETTER X. Late Queen Dowager of Sweden—her Character—builds the Palace of Drodenholm—her Learning. Page 38

- LETTER XI. Upsala.—University.—Linnaeus.—The Ladies. Page 41

- LETTER XII. Elkerby fall.—Gefle.—Igsund.—Melancholy Incident. —Sunval.—Dogstau.—Lesver. Page 44

- LETTER XIII. Uma in Swedish Lapland.—Richlea.—Sunana.— travelling regulations.—Pithia. Page 48

- LETTER XIV. Gambelstaden.—Anecdote of Charles the Eleventh. — Grot.—Enter Finland.—Tornao.—Sun at Midnight Page 52

- LETTER XV. Church at Tornao.—Judge's Lady—her Dress. — Grand Ball. Page 55

- LETTER XVI. Midsummer-day at Tornao.—Anecdote of a Finlander. — Professor Helands—his Swarm of Bees.—Salmon Fishery. Page 58

- LETTER XVII. Laplanders—their Huts. — Women. — Language. — Poetry.—A Lapland Song.—Religion.—Superstitions.—Conjuring Drum. Page 62

- LETTER XVIII Rein Deer.—Sledges.—Employment of the men. — Employment of Women—their Embroidery—Dress. —Lapland Dogs.—Hunting of the Chader.—Fishing Laplanders. Page 66

- LETTER XIX Wild Game.—the Chader—Ora—Hierpe—Snöripa, &c.—Breed of Wood-cocks. Page 71

- LETTER XX. Aquatic Fowls—Bohemian Chatterer—one found in England.—Aedder-duck—Jo-Fugl.—Alk—Scarv — Swallows—Lapland fruits—Forests—Flowers. Page 75

- LETTER XXI. Thompson's description of Lapland compared with the foregoing Observations. Page 81

- LETTER XXII. Natural State of the Laplander—Description of the Lapland Sledge. Page 85

- LETTER XXIII. Swedish Finland—Finlanders—Trade—French Agents—Finland fair—Furs—Country—Lakes—Religion—their further Instruction necessary. Page 87

- LETTER XXIV. Set out on our return—Lapland family—Cradle —food—huts—apparel.—compared with the Highlanders of Scotland.—Vitan—Pithia. Page 91

- LETTER XXV. Poverty of the Country—Sunana—Burea—Gumboda—Poor Peasant—Dean of Bogde—his Lady—his Hospitaliy.—Ojebyn, Dr. Solander's native place—Uma. Page 96

- LETTER XXVI. Dejecnaboda—Difficulties in crossing a Lake—further Impediments—Hernosand—Sunval — Shepherdesses. Page 99

- LETTER XXVII. Igsund—Lapland Girls—a reflection on HOME. Page 102

- LETTER XXVIII Fishing party at Igsund—Gefle—Faulund—Copper works—Avestadt—another copper work—Mint. Page 105

- LETTER XXIX. Sahla—Silver mine—Agriculture—Upsala—its Antiquity—Situation—University—Queen Christina—Grotius—Cathedral—King Erick's remains. Page 108

- LETTER XXX. Stockholm—King's Chapel—Drottinholm Palace. Page 113

- LETTER XXXI. Situation of Stockholm—Population—Market held on the water—custom of drinking Spirits—Brandy made of Rye and Ants—Instance of an Ant-eater. Page 115

- LETTER XXXII. Agriculture—Soil—Climate—no medium of Seasons. Page 119

- LETTER XXXIII. Architecture—curious construction of Bridges — Cultivation of Land. Page 122

- LETTER XXXIV. Cultivation of trees—best method of propagating the Fir tree—Moss—Sustenance of the rein-deer in winter. Page 125

- LETTER XXXV. Charles 12th's cannon—Adventure with General Stenbork's Maid servant—Seen by Lady Koningsmark at a play at Warsaw Page 126

- LETTER XXXVI. Soder-telge—King's retinue—Nordkoping—pleasant roads—Lake Wetter—large Island. Page 130

- LETTER XXXVII. Delays on the road—want of accommodations—Woods—Helsingborg—crossed the Sound—Elsinore—Castle of Cronenburg—Copenhagen. Page 133

- LETTER XXXVIII. Road from Elsinore to Copenhagen—Buildings—Women—Isle of Amak—singularity of its Inhabitants—Danish breed of Horses—Character of the Danes—Post-drivers—King—Prince—Military. Page 137

- LETTER XXXIX. Palaces—Queen Dowager—Commerce—Religion—Clergy—Police—State of Agriculture—Literature—Round Tower— Government—Courts of Law—Nobility. Page 141

- LETTER XL. Leave Denmark—return to Helsingborg—Gottenburg—Voyage to England—land at Shields —reach Ravensworth castle—conclusion. Page 145

- APPENDIX. LETTER XLI. An Account of the Lapland Girls Page 148

DIRECTIONS for placing the Plates.

- View of the Midnight Sun at Tornao - Frontispiece

- Entrance into Upsala - - opposite Page 41

- The Rein Deer - - - - 67

- The Kader - - - - 71

- The Orre: male and female - - - 72

- The Hierpe, and the Snoripa - - - ib.

- The Lapland Sledge - - - 86

- Sighre and Aniea, Lapland Women. - - 148

LETTER I.

At Sea.

I Make no doubt but you have long imagined that all our projected Schemes and plans of a Voyage to Sweden and a Lapland Journey, would come to nothing, and like Shakespeare's "cloud-capt towers and gorgeous Palaces, leave not a wreck behind." When you see this Letter, however, all your doubts will vanish, as we are now embarked upon the wide Ocean, and Favonian breezes are wasting us to the Shores of Sweden. You, and perhaps our other friends, are smiling at our romantic Expedition, you are laying your heads together and consulting how three mortals, like Sir H. G. L. Mr. B. and myself, can expect to subsist upon Lapland mountains, or how we ever formed the resolution of undertaking so enterprizing a Journey. But, my dear friend, give yourself no trouble about us. We have begun our Expedition with good Spirits and undiminished Courage and hope to finish it with equal eclat. Perhaps you will not believe me when I say that we are enjoying ourselves in our Cabin with our usual English Cheer, disdaining the blustering of Boreas or the tumult of the waves, with

One wide Ocean all around us,

All above us one black Sky.

There is a variety in a short Voyage very agreeable to a person accustomed to live on land, provided he can ensure himself from Sea-sickness. The unbounded blue Horizon, the Sun-beam playing upon the waters, the floating of the Sails, and gay tackling of the Ship, give a brilliancy to the scene that cannot fail to please. This is the delightful Prospect which the Land-man is so apt to paint. But when the melancholy Sailor takes up the pencil, how different is the picture which he draws? He delineates stormy skies and rolling waves, he paints the over-hanging rock and foundered ship, and all the hardships of a Seaman's Life. But, I think, I had better draw a curtain before this Painting, lest, like the Child that dresses up a Giant, in our present situation I should happen to be afraid of the creature of my own fancy.

When we arrive at Gottenburg, which we hourly expect, I will give you the journal of our Voyage; and, as occasion offers, will continue my narrative during the remainder of our Expedition. Tho', in all probability you will not meet with much novelty, for I pretend not to vie with such celebrated Travellers as Coxe or Wraxal, yet such reflections you will meet with as will at least satisfy your curiosity, how we executed our agreeable Scheme.

We took our departure from Ravensworth-castle the Seat of Sir H. G. L. on the 24th. day of May 1786, and embarked about six the same Evening at Shields on board the Gottenburg Merchant Capt. George Fothergill. We got under-way about twelve o'Clock at night, with a brisk Gale at W. N. W.

LETTER II.

Gottenburg May 28. 1786.

SAFELY landed on the coast of Sweden, I have now time to resume my writing and fulfil my promise. I engaged myself to give you a faithful narrative of our proceedings. It will be necessary, therefore, to relate every circumstance, with the same regularity that it happened, from the time that we lost sight of Tynmouth Castle and the English shore. The two first days passed along with unvaried tranquillity; our Ship sailing gently with a fair wind from four and an half to, sometimes, seven and eight knots in an hour. On Saturday the 27th. about six in the morning, we made, in the sailor's language, the Naze, a point of land on the Norway coast at the Entrance of the Scaggerac, or as it is sometimes called, Cattegat Sea. The country here appears to be very high and mountainous. Soon after we came in sight of the Jutland part of the Danish Territories, on the opposite side, and past the Scaw, a light house on this coast, with a fresh breeze, almost increasing to a Gale of wind. We were obliged to reef our topsails, the sea running so very high. The weather hazy, and exceeding cold. As our Voyage, however, was almost over we had no great reason to complain. About eleven in the morning we made Wing's Beacon, which is situated on an high barren rock not far from the mouth of the River Gotha. In this exposed situation live the Pilots, braving the storms and tempests for the sake of their profession, as this commands a fine Sea-view, and ships may be seen from hence at a great distance. When we came near this place we hoisted a Jack upon the Main-top-mast-head as a signal to the Pilots. They soon obeyed the summons, and the same afternoon we were safely moored in the Harbour of Gottenburg.

Soon after we landed, we dined at the English Hotel. After dinner the English Consul's Coach attended us at the Inn, and conducted us to the House of Mr. Smith, a Merchant resident here, whose attention and civility demand our warmest Thanks. We spent the evening with him and were entertained with much ease and Hospitality.

The Town of Gottenburg is neat, clean and well-built; the streets are regular and uniform; the houses, chiefly of wood painted so as to resemble brick and stone. Part of the Town stands upon a swampy plain, which like the Dutch towns, is intersected by Canals, the other part upon the declivity of an hill. The Harbour is commodious and convenient. There are establishments here of several branches of commerce, particularly an East India company and an Herring Fishery. From these two causes alone this place has increased considerably in the space of a very few years. The Entrance of the Harbour is guarded by the fort of new Elfsburg which is situated on a small rocky Island and garrisoned. The Markets here are extremely well supplied with necessaries and for very moderate prices. The Chief Magistrate here, is the Burgo-master, who regulates the Markets, and possesses the civil direction of the Town, in the same manner as the Mayor of corporate Towns in England.

You will naturally expect that I should not be many hours in Sweden before I should be able to give some account of the fairer part of the Creation, who in every quarter of the Globe are entitled to attention. But I will not be too rash in delivering my opinion, I am, as yet, but a young Swede, and therefore cannot be supposed to have had many opportunities of observation. The Ladies, that have hitherto fallen in my way, have generally covered their beauties with a Veil. At least I am willing to suppose there is beauty where I cannot prove the contrary; tho' I own, from their shapes and sizes, that Spectator is very complaisant, who gives them credit for personal qualifications which certainly do not present themselves before his Eyes.

LETTER III.

Gottenburg June 2. 1786.

AS we intend leaving Gottenburg to-morrow, I shall resume my narrative and give you some account of our proceedings since I wrote last. On the 29th. we accepted an Invitation to dinner from Mr. Hall, a Merchant of Eminence in this place, at whose house we were elegantly entertained after the Swedish fashion. The dinner, as well as supper which followed, consisted chiefly of Sweet-meats, Fruits, &c. which were plentifully interspersed with ornamental Images. But do not imagine this was the whole of our Entertainment. Other more substantial dishes were placed on the corners of the table. Amongst which were a Chader, (a Swedish bird) a cock of the wood (another great rarity) and a Pike Pudding. The latter dish will require some explanation. It consists of a Pike dressed so as to resemble the taste of a custard, and yet not losing the flavour of a fish. I thought it rather palatable than otherwise. The method of conducting themselves at table has a very singular appearance to a stranger. Every dish, after being cut up, is handed about in rotation from one to another; every one helps himself and passes it to the next. Wine and all other Liquors stand upon the table. The rule is, to help yourselves without any kind of ceremony; they drink no healths. The Ladies were particularly assiduous in perpetually filling our glasses. The cloth is not drawn as in England, neither do the Gentlemen sit after the Ladies rise. Each Gentleman conducts a Lady to another suit of apartments where Coffee is ready prepared. Tea about three hours after; then Cards and Music, or a walk 'till Supper. Upon this occasion several Officers both of naval and military distinction were present.

The day after, we dined with Mr. Smith and were received by him with great politeness. It is the Etiquette of this country to salute the hand of every Lady you are introduced to; a ceremony you may be assured we did not forget upon this occasion. We partook of a most elegant dinner consisting of various slight dishes, After Coffee, Mr. Bowes, Mr. Hall junior, and myself, walked with the Ladies by the side of a beautiful canal leading to the country, returned to tea and cards; supped and spent the evening very agreeably. Several Swedish, French, and English Songs were remarkably well sung. About twelve we returned to our Lodgings.

On the 31st. we were accommodated with the Consul's coach, and made an excursion of a few miles into the country. The rocks which we past were picturesque and magnificent: the vallies seemed rich and were cloathed with a fine verdure. We returned to dine at the English tavern, and spent the evening with Mr. Smith.

On the 1st. of June we took a view of the Swedish Ordnance which were then exercising for a review. It would be too humiliating to draw a comparison between what we saw, and the English Artillery. The Soldiers, in general, look old and inactive; their regimentals are bad and unbecoming, especially those of the Officers which are both whimsical, gaudy, and ridiculously ornamented with ribbons, died feathers, &c. It may not be improper in this place to observe that the forces of Sweden are, properly speaking, a regulated militia. Their armies consisted formerly of peasants who were remarkable only for their courage and numbers. The Cavalry are supported by a rate raised upon the nobility and gentry according to their estates; the Infantry by the peasants. Every farm of sixty pounds a year is charged with a foot Soldier, who, if he marry, has a house built at the charge of the peasant, who also must furnish him with hay to keep a cow in winter, pasturage in summer, and must plough, sow, and reap for him; and when this Soldier dies, they must provide one in his room. The Officers of horse and foot are maintained by the King, who appoints a certain portion of land for that end, so that every Officer has a house and land, and the rent of as many farms as make up his pay.

We dined this day with the Consul, where the Swedish Admiral, the French Consul, and many Barons, invested with different orders according to the constitution and custom of the country, were present. In the afternoon we saw the Artillery fire at a target. The Military performances were very indifferent. Returned to the Consul's and spent the evening.

The next day was agreeably spent in a visit to Mr. Hall's country seat, which is situated about five English miles from Gottenburg. The situation is most beautiful and romantic; it is environed with rocks of various shapes, which run in ridges for many miles; below, appears to the view, a fine extensive Lake, far exceeding those of either Cumberland or Westmorland; it abounds in pike, perch, trout and a variety of other fish. The woods consist chiefly of oak, horse-chesnut, birch, and mountain-ash, which grow tall but are slender, owing, I imagine, to the very thin surface of soil. The cattle which we saw here were, in general, small, the sheep, few and bad, their cloathing more resembles hair than wool. The horses are small, like the welch ponies, but amazingly active; their common posting is about nine or ten English miles an hour. The drivers are truly ridiculous both in manner and appearance. They have no harness for their carriages but use only ropes tied together with knots, which often slip and impede your expedition; otherwise the velocity would be beyond the traveller's conception.

LETTER IV.

Stockholm, June 8. 1786.

AT length, after a long and not disagreeable journey, in which we seldom stopped longer than necessity required, we arrived at the Metropolis of the Kingdom of Sweden last night. That you may travel along with us in idea, I shall continue to mention such particulars as occurred on the road.

We left Gottenburg on the afternoon of the 3d. instant, and slept that night at a small Village called Vadebaka where we met with very bad accommodations of every kind. Our beds were dirty and uncomfortable, and no kind of victuals were to be got, but what we brought along with us. The roads, however, were remarkably good and the country agreeably variegated with rocks and woods, tillage-land and barren moors. The woods principally consist of the spruce and silver fir, some few oaks and mountain-ashes. The day following we pursued our Journey through a fine country, and, as before, with delightful roads. I cannot omit a proper commendation of this attention to travellers. Indeed the advantage must be great to every country where so much care is taken of the public roads. Tho' we have no great reason to complain in England of our public turnpike roads, yet nothing there is comparable to these; swamps, morasses &c. are all equally made good; and those fine woods and gravel roads have so beautiful an effect that the traveller might frequently suppose himself entering the avenue or approach to some great Mansion. We stopped at a very neat town called Lidkioping near the beautiful Lake Wenner which is the largest in Sweden being about one hundred miles long, and seventy-five broad. The river Gotha runs from hence by Gottenburg to the Sea. At Trolhetta there are several cataracts of great height and magnificence. In one place it falls over a rock sixty feet high with such a noise that it is heard at the distance of two hundred furlongs. The timber that is floated down this river falls over this precipice with such impetuosity that it disappears for a considerable time before it makes its appearance again. The bed into which this cataract falls has been founded by lines of several hundred fathom but never discovered. The same night we slept at Enebacken; our beds bad and horrid accommodations as usual.

Very early in the morning on the 5th. we took our departure and travelled with wonderful velocity to Mariestadt where we breakfasted. This is a large town upon the same beautiful and extensive Lake. The woods were remarkably fine and thick on each side of the road, which is good, but mountainous. We found this a long and tedious stage, yet the variety of objects, wood, water, and rocks, beautifully arranged, rendered it agreeable. The woods were so extensive that we could seldom see their limits. Of the Feathered tribe which we met with in this country, were the chader, ora, and black cock: of the Quadrupeds, the wolf, the bear, red and fallow deer, foxes, hares, and, it is said, some few elks.

This evening we rested, if it might be so called, at Blacksta; beds worse than before, and as the luxury of sheets was not to be had, we slept in our cloaths; and even these did not protect us from troublesome companions, a large species of the Flea peculiar to that country.

We continued our Journey the day following and passed through a barren rocky country, very different from the last stage. There was no entertainment to the eye for many miles 'till we came to Stromsholm a Palace belonging to the King of Sweden; a very poor mansion for Royalty indeed, but delightfully situated upon the lake Meller, which extends as far as Stockholm. The King's Stables in this place are thought magnificent and worth the traveller's notice, but in my opinion the very contrary is the truth. They are little better than our Yorkshire barns. They contain twenty-two horses which are esteemed beautiful in Sweden. No straw is here used for bedding, but the horses lie upon boards. So far I must acknowledge from my own observation that this method of treating horses is preferable to our own. Through all Sweden and Denmark you seldom see a lame or foundered horse, which is not the case in England. The reason undoubtly is, that they are rendered more tender by standing on a hot-bed produced by their own litter.

On the next day we pursued our Journey to Stockholm not without hopes that we should reach our temporary home before night. We travelled the three first stages over barren heaths, morasses, &c. A rocky wild scene around us afforded us but little pleasure, as our eye could neither be gratified by a fine prospect, nor our palate by a satisfaction of a different nature. We were at length agreeably relieved by entering a rich cultivated country; delightful, well watered vallies, lakes ornamented with many trees and beautiful overhanging rocks. At Tibla we were not unpleasantly surprised with a tolerable dinner, and we arrived the same evening at Stockholm.

A Description of this Metropolis I must defer 'till I have had an opportunity of examining the scenes around me. Here, however, we are, safe and well; and able to inform you how sincerely I remain &c.

LETTER V.

Stockholm, June 12. 1786.

THE City of Stockholm is a well built town tho' badly paved. It is surrounded by the Baltic sea and lake Meller at their confluence. It is governed by two Burgomasters and twenty-four Rodmen or Aldermen. The King's Palace is magnificent. The Exchange is also a good and spacious building, the resort of many capital merchants. The Churches here are superbly decorated with a great variety of splendid ornaments. The people shew you much politeness, and dress in a stile resembling that of the Spaniards. The almost obsolete French fashion is still in practice among the men, as they seldom meet but they salute each other.

The day after our arrival we dined at a Tavern, remarkable for dirt and bad accommodation. In the evening we went to the Opera; the house is a handsome building, magnificently lighted up. His Majesty, the young Prince, and many of the Nobility, were present. The dresses of the Actors were superb; the performance, a Swedish historical piece representing Gustavus I. besieging the city of Stockholm, and routing the Danes out of the country. A magnificent statue is erected before the diet-house in memory of that Prince whom the Swedes regard at this day as their deliverer from Danish tyranny.

The next day we waited upon Sir Thomas Wroughton, who is the English minister resident at this court; a Gentleman of great politeness and affability, who fills that department with much credit to himself, and honor to his country.

On Saturday the 10th. we made a party to view the Citadel, an ancient building, where may be seen the royal armory, colours, and other trophies worthy of observation, taken by the military Heroes of the nation. The curiosities which we thought most remarkable were, Charles the XII's shirt, coat, boots and gloves which he wore at the time when he was killed at the siege of Frederickshall. The regimental coat is of a dark blue colour, with large round gilt buttons, the waistcoat and breeches yellow, his shirt fine, but plain, a black plain cravat, his boots very strong and long with square toes and steel spurs, his gloves made of very strong leather, with stiff tops; the hat also which he wore that day was shot through above the right eye; a shot which killed him upon the spot. Various are the conjectures, even to this day, concerning the fall of that rash Hero. It is surmised with circumstantial probability that he fell by the hand of some of his own Army. It is certain, blood is still to be seen on the gloves, and the mark of his fingers is evident upon his sword belt. It seems as if he had put his hand to the wound when shot, and immediately attempted to draw his sword to stab, or defend himself against, the assassin. Undoubtedly he had involved his country in much debt, and many difficulties; but being of a turbulant spirit (almost bordering on madness) would not listen to the distresses and repeated solicitations of his injured Subjects. His premature death, therefore, may be thus accounted for without any improbability. He fell a martyr to his ambition.

On Sunday the 11th. we went to St. Nicholas's Church. After divine service we were shewn many superb and costly ornaments of silver and gold. As the Lutheran Profession is very different from that of the church of Rome, I was much surprised to find the popish mode of worship, with respect to external splendor, so much adopted in those churches. The Priest, upon approaching the altar, invests himself in a rich embroidered cope, and also officiates according to many Roman Catholic customs. Above the altar-table, the ascension of our Saviour is represented in solid gold, inlaid with silver of most exquisite workmanship, well worth the traveller's attention. There were many crucifixes of solid silver and gold.

Afterwards we were conducted to the church of Redesholm, where lie interred many of the Swedish Kings. The sepulchre of Charles XII. had been attempted to be opened, out of curiosity, when Prince Henry of Prusia visited Stockholm, about twenty years ago, but being of marble and the lid beginning to break, they desisted. The Lutherans are very rigid in their attendance upon divine service, but when that is over, as in France and other foreign countries, they go to plays, operas, and all kind of amusements.

On the 12th. we dined with the English minister, where a Swedish Admiral, several Officers of destinction, and many English Gentlemen, were present. Sir Thomas paid us the compliment of inviting many of our own countrymen to his table that he might give us an English dinner; but alas! that proved merely nominal, as it all underwent a Swedish disguise.

LETTER VI.

Stockholm

I Take the liberty of continuing in this Letter my miscellaneous remarks on this country, which, I expect, you must receive with no small degree of indulgence, as many of them are the result of hasty observation. I would not have it understood that the Swedish Ladies, in general, are disgusting to an English taste. There are many whose education and accomplishments are as distinguished as their birth, and whose affable temper and disposition render them perfectly amiable. These qualifications a stranger to their language cannot always enjoy. They possess no small share of vivacity, wit, and affability, with many other accomplishments; and to these we must add, the greatest delicacy of manners. 'Tis true their mode of dress appears at first sight rather singular to a stranger, as in some degree divesting them of elegance; but that soon wears off and becomes reconciled to us by fashion, the modern corrector of all absurdities. In honor and justification of the Swedish Fair, this peculiar merit must certainly be allowed them, they possess a stability of temper and are by no means prone to frequent and fantastic changes either of mind or apparel; neither are they subject to the extremes of decoration but observe a strict mediocrity. They are not actuated by that spirit of Emulation which we may observe in some countries that we know, neither do they endeavor to exceed or excel one another in distinctions of this trifling nature.

Music is esteemed one of the most polite accomplishments among the Ladies; it is indeed almost a general Science in this country. Many of their music Masters are held in high repute, and that vocation is thought so honorable as to introduce them to all assemblies, with people of the first distinction. The Church music of the Swedes, inspires the mind with religious awe. It operates, however, often too powerfully on weak minds and produces more the shew than the true spirit of Religion.

It is not my intention, however, to deny the power of Music in disposing the mind to seriousness, and adding to the very spirit of devotion. Milton, who, we all know, was not over fond of the external decorations of Religion as practised in the Church of England, yet allows the power of Harmony in this respect. After describing the studious Cloister, the high embowred roof, the antique Pillars and storied Windows, casting, as he says, a dim religious light; he adds

There let the pealing organ blow

To the full voic'd quire below,

In Service high and Anthems clear,

As may with sweetness through mine Ear

Dissolve me into extasies

And bring all Heav'n before mine Eyes.

Much credit is due to this nation with respect to the Education and training up of young people so as to render them useful members of Society. They are particularly attentive to the Education of the inferior classes of people; for which beneficial purpose they have instituted seminaries and schools, which are carefully inspected by the superior and dignified Clergy. When a youth attains a certain age, so as to be capable either of trade or any professional line of life, if he shews any particular marks of genius, or an uncommon assiduity in any of the walks of Science, these ecclesiastical directors report him to the King who gives orders, as the reward of his merit, that he may receive an Education suitably adapted to his temper and the bent of his inclination. If he continues his diligence and attention, his promotion his certain. This truly laudable institution and exemplary pattern may well be thought worthy the imitation of more enlightened nations, as it is certainly productive of much emulation and improvement. To dig the rough diamond from the mine is doubtless a commendable labor, but to polish it and make it fit for use deserves the highest praises.

LETTER VII.

Stockholm.

THE Diet of the State, which is sitting at this time, consists of the King and general Estates of the Kingdom, which are thus divided: First, the Nobility. Secondly, the Clergy. Thirdly, the Burgers. And fourthly, the Peasants. Every military person of rank, from a General to a Captain, has the privilege of sitting in Council and giving his vote. The Clergy elect from their deaneries and separate parishes a certain number, who, with the Bishops and inferior Clergy, represent that Body. Every Corporation elects the Burgers to represent them. From Stockholm, as it is the capital, and containing the largest number of Inhabitants they have double the number, which, when united, form a large and considerable Body. The Peasants, who chuse one of their own people from every parish to represent them, take also their seat in Diet.

When the King convenes the Diet, which he generally does on particular and emergent occasions, the Assembly meet at Stockholm in a very elegant Edifice built for this purpose. Their method of proceeding is this: His Majesty informs them by a speech from the throne of the cause of their convention; they then divide and separate into four different chambers, the Nobles into a house of their own, the Clergy into the cathedral, the Burgers and Peasants into another building across the market-place. In their several chambers they consider the matter in question and give their assent or dissent. The vote is carried by a majority. Every chamber has a negative in passing a law. After each of the States has come to a determination they return in regular order from the separate chambers to the Diet-house, where the King sits and receives their decisive votes.

I could not but remark the pomp of their procession from the Council chamber to the Diet-house. They are arranged in great form and the Town guard turns out under arms as they pass. The first Noble, venerable in age and dressed in the court fashion, went first; the rest of the Nobility in pairs after; then the Archbishop of Upsala, a man of a very reverend and apostolic appearance with a gold chain about his neck; the other Bishops and Clergy two and two; then the principal Magistrate of Stockholm at the head of the Burgers; and lastly, the poor Peasants, the singularity of whose apparel and lank hair formed a remarkable contrast with those who went before. Yet, tho' appearances don't favor those people, I was well informed that they are far from being deficient in the politics of their own country, and wonderfully skilled in the knowledge of their own national constitution. They are firm in opinion, neither to be bribed or biassed, but adhere strictly to the wellfare and credit of their nation.

These people are particularly and most vigourously attentive to the actions and honor of the Senate, which is composed of fourteen Senators. Tho' the Peasants themselves are excluded from voting for the election of a Senator, yet the Senate is always accountable to the Diet, of which they make a part, for every transaction of its administration. So that the Peasants have the power of checking the irregularity or encroaching power of a presumptuous Noble. Neither will they admit the most trisling infringement of any constitutional privilege whatever. Rights of such importance, tho' vested, as may be imagined, in an illiterate race of people, produce the good effects of decorum and a well regulated government.

A Senator is appointed as president to every court of justice, and a council, to manage and regulate all boards established for the use of public revenues; such as military offices, marine departments, and all other civil and commercial appointments. Their laws are comprized in a small compass, and seldom subject them to the disturbance of litigation; so that the profession of the long robe in Sweden is of small repute.

LETTER VIII.

Stockholm

HIS Majesty's late animated and enterprizing attempt for a revolution succeeded to a certain degree, but not so far as to introduce and establish an unlimited monarchy. He gained the Soldiers, and many of his Subjects joined his party and took the oaths of allegiance in consequence of a most nervous and spirited address which he made to his people. His elocution, affable manner, and great condescension, which indeed was only assumed to serve his turn, rendered him the idol of his country, and what added more to the patriotic zeal which they shewed for him, was, that he was a native of Sweden. His person is rather low but well made and active. It is very singular that of one side of his face does not at all resemble the other. He delights much in military exercises and forms an annual camp at a small distance from Stockholm, where he dedicates his time to military improvements.

The want of population, which is very much the case in Sweden, and above all, the want of current coin, will always give a most effectual check to monarchical ambibition. Tho' the King maintains, and personally inspects the most minute department of State, and attaches himself to every frugal system of regal management, yet all is not sufficient to effect his purposes. Necessity is a plea which even Kings cannot resist.

Whether this was the reason, or whether he suspected some imposition in the management of the public revenues, and particulaly in that of distilled Spirits, or whether he had an eye only to his own private emolument, certain it is, that his Majesty issued an edict for discontinuing every distillery of spirituous liquors throughout the Kingdom. A second ordinance was immediately proclaimed for erecting distilleries of his own in every province and laying a severe penalty on those who dared to manufacture their own brandy. This Expectation of increasing wealth soon vanished and proved but an additional calamity. Partly from his own injudicious management, and partly from the impositions of those he employed, he soon found the ill Effects of his Schemes. Doubtless, from such a precipitate misconduct, it was natural to imagine, that many and great dissentions would have arisen among the People. Such discontents his Majesty was aware of, and to appease them ordered a reduction of the price from seven Shillings per Gallon to three Shillings and Sixpence. This still had not the desired effect, but on the contrary proved the consequence of more immediate ruin. This want of commercial knowledge plunged him in serious and unforseen dificulties, till at length it determined him to an application to Diet for relief. How far these aristocratical people complied with his desires, how far the exigences of his situation were relieved, or whether any supply was granted, has not yet transpired.

LETTER IX.

Stockholm.

IN my last I gave you an account of the transactions that have been passing between the King and the Diet. I can now inform you that this powerful Assembly, men, venerable in office, and ready to oppose every apparent principle of despotism, refused to comply with a scheme which he laid before them for a general liquidation of the royal debts. A further impropriety of conduct his Majesty was guilty of, in attempting to exact from his Country, a more exorbitant Sum to defray (as he said) his expences to England. This was equally disapproved of by the haughty Swedes, who immediately and emphatically pronounced a general negative. Further appeals were then unnecessary, and all addresses to his obstinate Countrymen proved ineffectual.

This disappointment was not well relished, and indeed incurred the royal displeasure. Being a man of a warm and impetuous disposition, his Majesty dismissed the Diet with a very spirited Speech censuring their measures and disapproving of their opposition to him. After this he retired to the Camp and did not return to Stockholm for some days. This had likely to have terminated in a very serious manner, but by the proper and timely interference of good Ministers, tranquillity was at length happily restored to this Court.

Though the imprudence of his Majesty's conduct may frequently throw a shade over some parts of his character, yet he possesses many good qualities which more than counterbalance these failings, and indeed add a brilliancy to his many distinguished virtues. He is firm in friendship and always ready most liberally to recompense the fidelity of his Servants, so far as pecuniary ability will permit. When this cannot be done, which is sometimes the case, he very judiciously confers honors and distinctions, titles, stars, and ribbons. These honors he confers promiscuously on all ranks and stations; neither regarding birth or any family distinction whatever. This Policy, adopted now by the Sovereigns of most countries, rewards merit at a small expence and procures an additional number of retainers to the Court. He uses the same means for the encouragement of literature and in promoting the Arts and Sciences. In this country, and a happy distinction it is, even the lowest Mechanic is encouraged by a reward, equal to the ingenuity which he possesses. This proper policy cannot fail in the end of producing good effects throughout the Swedish dominions, and affords an Example worthy the imitation of the most civilized Kingdoms.

LETTER X.

Stockholm

THE late Dowager Queen, who was Sister to his late Majesty of Prusia, opposed many of the present King's public measures, and shewed great disapprobation of her Sons partiality to the customs and manners of the French; which, as it was likely, did not fail to give the French several advantages, the consequence of such delusion. That politic people, in this case did not omit the improvement of so favorable an opportunity of advancing their interests. At length by gradual approaches and unsuspected subtilty they made an invaluable purchase and became possessors of a great part of the Harbour of Gottenburg. This so greatly displeased the Dowager Queen, that, from that time, she absented herself from the Court and retired to the small, but beautiful, Palace built in the Garden at Drodenholm.

It would be wrong to pass over the character of this Lady in silence. She partook of many of the strong mental qualities of her Brother. She was not only well skilled in all the parts of profound literature, but her unlimited knowledge extended through every system of politics. Early in life she took much delight in the cultivation of a strong natural understanding, which she continued to improve to her death. That she might have a retirement proper for this purpose she built this small Palace in the Garden at Drodenholm, which is elegant and of most exquisite Architecture. The Chinese taste prevails most; there are several apartments decorated with mandarins, china-vases and various ornaments which highly compliment her taste and judgement. In this retirement she dedicated her time to books, and by indesatigable study became a proficient in almost every language, but particularly in the Latin tongue, which, it is said, she thoroughly understood. The library, which is of her own collection and extremely well chosen, is now a standing testimony of her genius. Her private character, whatever may have been said by the tongue of flander, it is not my business to investigate.

To-morrow we intend to pursue our Journey to Lapland; when I return to Stockholm I shall continue my reflections upon, either the customs, manners, or Politicks of this people, as it may happen. But do not suppose this shall in the mean time prevent your hearing from me. I shall write as often as I am able, presuming on your friendship, that I cannot too often subscribe myself yours &c.

LETTER XI.

Upsala, 13th. June.

UPSALA, where we arrived this morning on our road to Lapland, is the first University of eminence and repute in Sweden. Many Foreigners and Students of different nations, even from England, resort here for Education. The professors of science and language are men of unquestionable abilities, and of great reputation for learning. I had the pleasure of dining with two of these professional Gentlemen. Instead, as I expected, of finding them a formal and precise people, I was agreeably surprised to see them set aside every unnecessary reserve, and with the greatest politeness, freedom, and good humour entertain us with every information which we wished.

The City of Upsala is a pleasant and healthful situation: in the lower part of the City there is a fine square which forms the market-place; on an eminence is the castle which consists of many beautiful and lofty buildings chiefly of wood, commanding a distant but most extensive view of the Gulf of Bothnia; from hence there is a most commodious communication with Stockholm. The much renowned Linaeus first formed here his celebrated Botanical Garden. It affords no extraordinary appearance to a stranger ignorant of Botany, but is matter of much curiosity to students in that Science.

The Fair in this place will not allow themselves to pass unobserved. I should not therefore excuse myself of rudeness, if I were to omit the least appearance of respect. They shew great attention to strangers and assume a peculiar gaiety which in England might have the appearance of levity. It may not, however, appear so very extraordinary that these Ladies should possess some knowledge of the softer passions, having all the advantage of a College Education.

It must not be considered as a particular want of respect to the married Ladies of Upsala, if I remark that at this place some fell under our observation, whose conduct and behaviour, still less obeyed the rules of decorum, than the unmarried Fair ones I have already mentioned. I am not the first Traveller that has had occasion to make this remark, not on Sweden only, but on many of the Northern Kingdoms, particularly Germany. Whatever reason may be assigned for this it is certainly true. And it would be well if in more fashionable countries, the Mask of Matrimony were not so frequently made use of, as a covering for Levity and Dissipation, a skreen for the improper Indulgence of licentious Inclinations.

This celebrated City and University deserves a more particular attention than I am at present able to bestow upon it. When we return, which we shall do, through this place, I will endeavour to give you a better account of its History.

Sir H. G. L. has caused a drawing of our Entrance into this City, to be engraved, which will accompany this Letter.

LETTER XII.

June 18, 1786.

I Write this from a Village on the road that I may not interrupt the narrative of our Journey. I shall resume my pen when we become more stationary.

We left Upsala early in the morning on the 14th. of June, and attempted to dine at a dirty Village about noon, but alas! nothing comfortable was to be met with. But tho' our palates this day received no gratification, our eyes certainly did, from prospects the most romantic and entertaining. We travelled for many miles by the side of a very beautiful and extensive Lake, and passed a most wonderful and picturesque cataract called Elkerby fall. In the evening we arrived at Gefle. Gefle is a Seaport situated on the Gulf of Bothnia an arm of the Baltic Sea. There appeared more industry in the cultivation of Land here, than in any part of this country which we had hitherto passed. Leaving behind us these traces of civilized life we entered into woods that did not terminate for many miles.

The next day we continued our Journey, as before, through almost endless woods, and passed a variety of Lakes, one of which we were obliged to cross in a Ferry about half a mile over. The Swedish Watermen, who are neither expeditious nor expert, greatly impeded our Journey. About eleven at night we arrived at a town called Igsund. We had Letters of recommendation to a Gentleman of that place, by whom we were most policely received and hospitably treated. The town of Igfund tho' in itself small, yet very extensive Ironworks are carried on here, the property of Merchants in Stockholm. After breakfasting the next morning with our hospitable friend and his Lady we left Igsund and travelled through a country full of rocks and precipices, deep and heavy sands, with little variety. The Woods, as usual, were very extensive. Some small Villages are scattered upon the borders of the Lakes which are inhabited by Boors whose sole subsistence depends upon the fish they can procure from the Lake on which they live. They have very little corn, and in order to increase the quantity of food they mix it up and grind it with the thin rind or inward bark of the fir-tree; afterwards they form it into thin large cakes. Tho' their diet is very meagre yet they are a large, bony, athletic people, capable of bearing much fatigue.

The Woods here are remarkably extensive and thick, and are supposed to harbour more wild beasts than any other part of Sweden. We were informed of a melancholy instance of the ferocity of these wild animals near a neighbouring Village while we were there. Two unsortunate Girls, attending their h•rds in the wood, were both devoured by a ravenous she-bear and her young, which the day before had been seen prowling for prey.

The same night we reached Sunval a Sea-port town upon the same Gulf. The trade of this place chiefly consists in the building of Ships, which is very convenient on account of its near situation to such extensive and fine forests. It neither imports nor exports any thing, except tar, which they extract from their firs.

On the morning of the 17th. we crossed two serries and passed a most mountainous country. The hills on every side were almost precipices, altogether inaccessible. This day we dined at an insignificant Village where we unexpectedly met with tolerable accommodations. In the afternoon we crossed a Lake, a mile and a half long. The country to Dogstau, where we slept, was almost a constant succession of steep rocks and barren hills, which delayed us much, for which reason we did not reach that place till two in the morning, where we found accommodations of every kind exceeding bad. Here we delayed not long but left Dogstau very early, and passed under an exceeding high rock at some small distance from the town. The summit of this rock is much resorted to by strangers, to see the Sun at midnight.

We dined at a neat Village; the house was uncommonly clean, and we were agreeably surprised with unlooked for delicacies, such as, a variety of wild fowl, eggs, chaders, &c. From hence we made a slow progress in travelling, as the roads were deep and sandy, and arrived at Lesver the same night, a town situated in a wretched country, the Land producing no corn for three years past. This circumstance threatens them with the dreadful consequences of a general Famine; a calamity too often experienced in this miserable country.

LETTER XIII.

June 19, 1786.

THIS morning we entered Uma, a beautiful wellbuilt town, situated upon a fine River of the same name, where Ships are built of large burthen. The river runs on the south side of the town and empties itself into the Gulf of Bothnia. It gives its name to a part of Swedish Lapland in which it has its source, from hence called Uma Lapmark. It is too broad to admit of a bridge which renders the passage very incommodious, as the ferries are very bad and ill supplied. The Governor of West Bothnia resides here, which is about two hundred and eighty miles north of Stockholm.

The same night we arrived at Richlea the first town at which we slept in Lapland. The roads here are like those we had left with rocks, woods, and, in the height of Summer, burning sands. The town of Richlea vies with, and indeed far surpasses, the towns in the Swedish territories in dirt and poverty. Beds, there were indeed, if such they may be called, which we lay upon, and by the assistance of fatigue contrived to sleep till morning. By day we were bit by the Musqueto-fly and during the night by insects of a nature equally disagreeable to our feelings. Our faces, legs, and bodies were so immoderately swelled as to render us truly pitiable objects. We left that place to free ourselves from such an uncomfortable situation, as early as possible.

On the next day we arrived very early at a small Village called Gumboda. Here we were entertained with an Encampment of Swedish Soldiers which made a very indifferent military appearance. From their awkwardness and apparent want of discipline I took them for some new raised Lapland Militia. We slept that night at Sunana, where we found an excellent Inn. Every thing, much to our surprise, was uncommonly clean for that country. The Landlady seemed very desirous to please; that circumstance could only be guessed at from her actions, as an entire ignorance of the language of the country rendered any other intercourse impracticable.

Our Journey the next day was much retarded by the wilful negligence of those Boors who are obliged to supply all Travellers with horses. A negligence in this respect subjects them either to corporal punishment or a pecuniary fine. On which account, the Traveller sign•• a book which is kept for this purpose, and at the same time particularly notes how long he had been detained by their neglect. This book must be produced at every quarterly meeting of their Magistrates, who regulate every punishment according to the desert of the offender. Were it not for the strictness of this regulation no foreign¦er could commodiously travel, but must be subject to the greatest impositions.

This country abounds in Lakes and Rivers which, though particularly beautiful and romantic, greatly hindered the progress of our Journey, as we were obliged to pass over many of them. For which reason we did not arrive at Pithia till five in the afternoon. Here we dined at the Burgo-master's house, were genteelly received, and set down to a very slight dinner which we quickly dispatched. Pithia, like Uma, gives its name to a Province of Swedish Lapland, is situated upon a river of the same name which rises in the Lapland mountains, and runs into the Gulf of Bothnia.

From hence we set out for Ernasto, where we arrived the same night, but finding the beds damp we were obliged to sleep in our cloaths. From this circumstance you will not be surprised that we were very soon ready to pursue our Journey in the morning. The town of Pithia is perhaps one of the largest and best built towns in Lapland. It is governed by a Burgo-master and twelve Rodmen. This place has more the appearance, than the reality, of trade, though extremely well situated for that purpose. It is surrounded by a fine navigable water which communicates with many Lakes and Rivers. The Inhabitants seem to be an inanimate sort of people, neither desirous to please nor giving themselves much trouble to shew their displeasure.

LETTER XIV.

Tornao, 24th. June.

AFTER leaving Pithia and passing over a large extent of country, very little of which is good, the greater part, bad, and indifferent, a better prospect presents itself before us. Here Plenty might have been expected from the apparent good quality of the soil if the people were inclined to industry. But, alas! on account of their indolence, and ignorance in the art of Agriculture, Poverty, scanty Poverty, continues to oppress them.

After crossing a very indifferent Ferry we arrived at a small but neat town called Gambelstaden, where it is recorded, that King Charles XI. of Sweden, on his return from Tornao, humourously declared, that he had in his tour met with three very extraordinary circumstances; the first was, seeing the Sun at midnight at Tornao; the second, that in crossing the Ferry, a large Salmon leaped into the boat; and lastly, that when he attended divine Service at Gambelstaden, the parish Minister ascended the rostrum to preach before him, but being overcome by diffidence, and awed by the presence of Majesty, returned again to his seat without uttering a word. Here we visited the church, which is a spacious building superbly ornamented with gaudy grandeur.

The same night we slept at Grot. The Clergyman of the parish was the Landlord. Not far from this place we observed two criminals stretched upon the Wheel for murder. Capital executions are not common in this country, and indeed are but seldom inflicted, except in cases of murder. On such occasions only they have not yet laid aside the use of torture, a proof, among others, that the Government of Sweden has not yet attained that degree of refinement which in more southern Kingdoms every where prevails.

The morning following, after passing a noble river, we entered Finland. The country here is deep and sandy, and of course barren and unfruitful. The Inhabitants are to appearance rough, and their manners uncultivated to a great degree; but though to a stranger they appear ignorant, yet they are sufficiently knowing where their own interest is concerned. This day we arrived at Tornao, a beautiful well built town surrounded by a river of the same name, or rather the river here swells into a spacious Lake. This water produces a great quantity of Salmon of uncommon weight and size. This town is the place of residence of many capital merchants. The principal trade here consists of tar and furs of all kinds, brought down from the high country by the Laplanders, which they barter for cloth, hardware and other merchandize.

At twelve o'clock this night we saw the Sun in full beauty. The Horizon being remarkably clear, gave us a most delightful view of that, to us, extraordinary sight. Sir H. G. L. has caused an engraving to be made of this agreeable Scene. [*] The Inhabitants of this climate no doubt reap many advantages from this circumstance during the Summer season; but, alas! a long and dreary Winter reverses the scene and involves them in continual darkness. Yet this is not quite so dismal as might be imagined. The aurora borealis appears with peculiar splendor in all northern countries and supplies in some degree the place of the Sun. The stars too in their clear frosty nights shed an agreeable light, and enable them without much impediment to follow many of their ordinary occupations.

Notes

*
See the frontispiece.
↵

LETTER XV.

Tornao, June 25th.

AS we had great need of rest, after a Journey of eight hundred miles through a country destitute of every comfort and convenience of life, it was thought expedient to halt at this place yesterday and to-day. This town is situated on the confines of Finland. The languages both of the Laplanders and the Finlanders are spoken here. Our interpreter being well skilled in all the dialects of this country we met with fewer difficulties in the common course of things than we had reason to expect.

This day we attended the Church which stands at some distance from the town. It is a small but neat building, and the benefice about eighty pounds per annum. Few church preferments in this country are of greater value. In the afternoon we received an invitation from the Judge's lady to drink coffee, the Judge himself then attending the Diet at Stockholm. We accepted the invitation and were most politely received by the lady. Her dress was very superb having a gold chain about her neck, a diamond cross, ear rings, and a variety of precious stones on every finger. Her vestment was a rich brocade, very short, after the country fashion. In the evening we were introduced to a grand ball, where we were much entertained with their peculiar manner of dancing. Soon after, the Judge's Lady made her appearance; when she entered the room the company all rose and paid her much respect: from this it may be imagined that she is considered as a person of no small consequence in this place. Though she was not now in the meridian of youth and beauty, she danced minuets, cotillions, and many of their own country dances, with uncommon activity and spirit. The Inhabitants of this place, though living as it were at a great distance from polished Society, are far from being an unpolished People. The master of the ceremonies paid us the utmost respect and attention. Being ignorant of their customs, we were, according to the English Phrase, going to take a French leave, but were given to understand that it would be deemed the highest disrespect if we did not particularly salute the Judge's Lady and make a general obeisance to the whole company. With this ceremony, though by no means pleasant to us, we were obliged to comply.

Tornao is the chief town of West Bothnia, about three hundred and twenty miles north east of St•ckholm, situated on a river of the same name, which rises in Lapland, runs south east, and falls at Tornao into the Gulf of Bothnia. They have a tolerable trade here in Furs with the Laplanders, their neighbours, on the west and north, and the Finlanders who inhabit the eastern side of the Gulf.

LETTER XVI.

Tornao, June.

IT is our fortune to be at Tornao on Midsummer day—a day always celebrated with the greatest Festivity in Sweden. The Boors flock to this place in great numbers from the surrounding country and endeavour to amuse themselves in various ways. Their curiosity has been very much excited by Sir H. G. L.'s Landaw, which they have viewed with much admiration. They are also as desirous of seeing us as we can possibly be of observing them. For this purpose, through ignorance or curiosity, I will not call it impertinence, they are continually staring at us through the windows of our dining room.

I must now relate an Adventure, though of no great importance, yet as it amused us, I shall have your pardon for so doing. In the evening a stout Finlander laid his elbows upon the window, and without much ceremonycalled to us frequently for brandy. We nodded to him as we were drinking our wine, while he continued to repeat his former request in his own language, Anna ma vino, Hurra Kultana, "Dear Gentlemen, give me brandy." Sir H. with great good nature complied with his request, and gave him two or three glasses which he seemed to enjoy very much, but still he called, Hurra Kultana. A few glasses more were given him, which made him drop his elbow from the window, and rather grow shorter. As his legs would not bear him up, he bent his knees against the wall, and by the help of his hands he supported himself, by holding fast by the window post; but still he called, Hurra Kultana. Two glasses more were given him, till at length he could say nothing but Kultana, Kultana, and gradually sunk from the window.

When his countrymen who were standing around saw him drop, they took him carefully up and carried him away. Word, however, was soon brought that the man was so ill that they expected his throat would soon be on fire, and if he did not recover before the morning, our post horses would be stopped and our Journey prevented.

Our anxiety was removed in an hour or two's time by the man's appearance once more upon the stage. He came into the yard and began to play several anticks, and to shew us how the Bear dances in the fields.

About eleven o'clock the same night the much renowned Professor Helands waited on Sir Harry. His countenance and appearance shewed that he was a true born son of Lapland. His age about sixty nine. He spoke the French language tolerably well, and said many handsome things of the English nation. He informed us how many English Gentlemen had visited Tornao in his time, and shewed us Letters he had received from persons of rank in London.

There is one circumstance concerning him I cannot omit mentioning, to shew the high estimation in which learning is held and the credulity of the common people, as well as the veneration which is paid in unenlightened nations to men of superior knowledge. We were informed, and I believe the circumstance was entirely credited by the person who told us, that for his winter amusement this learned Professor had taught a swarm of Bees to hunt, and even to kill, mice. It is impossible to say how far the minds of the ignorant may be imposed upon. It is not perhaps many centuries ago that this story would have found Believers even in England.

We walked in the evening to the side of the river to see the Finlanders draw their nets at the Salmon Fishery. They form an Enclosure with Poles driven down in the water, the length of which is three hundred yards, the breadth one hundred, with only one entrance for the Salmon. Every two hours they draw their net and generally catch about forty or fifty Salmon at a time. The inhabitants of this place pickle and salt it in barrels and export it from hence to all parts of Sweden. A large quantity is smoked and dried, and sold very cheap. Our Landlord the same evening bought a large Salmon that weighed twenty-one pounds for nine dollars copper (about half a crown.) The Pike is a fish very abundant at Tornao, and in Lapland. These also are dried by the natives and sold to the merchants for exportation. But of all the fish which their water can supply, none is to be compared with the Ruda either for goodness or for flavour. It resembles the Carp in shape, and is equally pleasant to the palate.

LETTER XVII.

Tornao,

THE Laplanders in general are below the middle stature, with flat faces, high cheek bones, long black hair, and their complexions of a mahogany hue. Their habitations are dirty to a great degree, but on account of their uns••••ed life are portable. They leave an aperture at the top which serves both for window and chimney, and a small hole on one side for an entrance. In short their dwellings are not unlike those described in Cook's Voyage of the inhabitants of Kamschatka. The Laplanders are muscular and active, though at the same time, which seems to imply a contradiction, they are naturally idle, but perfectly pacific in their tempers. The Women, likewise are low, with large broad features, but have so gentle and complaisant a manner that their behaviour removes a prejudice which their first appearance does not fail to excite. As their manners are gentle so their characters are chaste.

The language of the Laplanders is a harsh and unintelligible Jargon derived from their neighbours, the ancient Inhabitants of Finland. Their voices however are musical and they never require much entreaty to oblige. The few specimens which we possess of Lapland Poetry, give you a favourable impression of their taste, and taste most certainly it is, uncorrupted by foreign Ideas, and entirely the production of nature. In the Spectator you have two elegant Odes translated from the language of Lapland (Nos. 366 and 406.) I shall make no apology for adding a third.

A LAPLAND SONG.

THE Snows are dissolving on Tornao's rude side,

And the Ice of Lulhea flows down the dark tide:

Thy dark stream, Oh Lulhea, flows freely away,

And the Snow-drop unfolds her pale beauties to Day.

Far off the keen terrors of Winter retire,

And the North's dancing Streamers relinquish their fire

The Sun's genial beams swell the bud on the tree,

And Enna chaunts forth her wild warblings with glee.

The Rein-deer, unharness'd in freedom shall play

And safely o'er Odon's steep precipice stray;

The Wolf to the Forest's recesses shall fly

And howl to the moon as she glides thro' the sky.

Then haste, my fair Luah, Oh! haste to the Grove,

And pass the sweet Season in rapture and love;

In Youth let our bosoms in Extacy glow

For the winter of Life ne'er a transport can know.

With respect to religion I'm affraid the Laplanders have yet much to learn: though like every other quarter of the Globe, Knowledge is making gradual advances even here. The high Laps, as they are called, that is, those who inhabit the mountains, have not yet quite forgot their original Paganism, notwithstanding the great pains which the Swedes have taken to introduce Christianity amongst them. Many superstitious customs still remain to proclaim the darkness of their minds. Augury and witchcraft make a part of their belief; they still whisper to their Rein-deer when they undertake a Journey, and address their ancient Idols for the increase and safety of their flocks. You have heard no doubt of their conjuring Drums. I met with one in the possession of a Priest at Uma, who had attended a reformed Pagan in his dying moments. His original opinions he had long since changed, but retained this piece of ancient superstition to delude the ignorant, and supply his own necessities.

This Instrument is of an oval form, made of the bark of the fir, pine, or birch-tree, one end of which is covered with a sort of parchment dressed from the Rein-deer skin. This is loaded with brass rings artfully fastened to it. The Conjuror then beats it upon his breast with a variety of frantic postures. After this he besmears it with blood, and draws upon it rude figures of various kinds. When he has gone through all his manaeuvres, he informs his credulous audience what they wish to know, which he says was communicated to him during the paroxism of his attitudes. Like other Fortune-tellers, his answers are generally of a favorable kind, for which he receives presents of brandy, which adds fuel to his frenzy and renders him mighty wise.

LETTER XVIII.

Tornao,

THE Wealth of the Laplanders consists chiefly in the Number of Rein-deer. These draw their Sledges in winter, but in summer these animals loose their vigour and swiftness, and are easily overcome by heat. I have seen them reclining in the woods, and apparently so enfeebled, as scarcely able to get out of your way. When thus oppressed they make a noise resembling the grunting of an hog. Even then the Laplanders make use of them to transport their Effects from one station to another, which they have occasion to do more frequently in summer
Drawn from the living Animal The REIN-DEER.

than in winter, as they are then in quest of fertile plains for the maintenance of their numerous flocks.

The Rein-deer is of the shape of a Stag, but rather stronger. The hair light, rather inclining to an ash colour. His horns are very long and finely branched. The lower branches, which fall very near the forehead, are said to be used by the animal in breaking the ice, when the waters are frozen over, that he may get drink. His food is shrubs and plants, or moss and the bark of trees. His legs are very hairy and his hoofs moveable, for he expands and opens them in going. He is an extremely swift, as well as an extremely strong, animal.

After speaking of the rein-deer it is but proper that I should mention the Sledge which renders them so useful. The Sledge is formed something like a boat. Its bottom is convex, of course none but a person well practiced in such a mode of travelling could preserve himself from oversetting every moment. It is square behind, but projecting to a point before. The Traveller is tied in this Sledge like a child in a cradle. He manages his carriage with great dexterity by means of a stick with a flat end, to remove stones or any obstructions which he might meet with. In this situation they travel with great rapidity.

The Laplander is very dexterous in making utensils of wood. He is his own carpenter and boat-builder. I was not a little surprized, in a tent of wandering Laplanders, to find the cheese which they make of the rein-deer's milk curiously impressed with a wooden instrument such as is commonly used in the English Daries. They fasten their boards together, when they make their boats or other moveables, with Twigs or the Nerves of the rein-deer. The women also make use of the latter as a substitute for thread in sewing. The female Laplanders shew great ingenuity in embroidering their Garments with brass-wire, tin, or any other gaudy ornament. They take much delight in adorning their heads, neck, and shoulders with glass beads, &c. and are very fanciful in their girdles which are embroidered and fringed with large tufts at the two extremes and tied in large knots; this they look upon as the greatest ornament of their dress.

The Dress of Lapland Ladies of superior rank, such as are resident in towns, is equal to their fortunes. This is often very superb and costly, whimsically loaded with ornaments, gold and silver rings, diamonds, and pearls, &c. I have already mentioned the dress of the Judge's Lady at this place. The vest of a Lady of Quality is of the richest brocade silk, trimmed with ribbons which float round the neck and waist; the cap, of blue or white satin, wrought with embroidery of various colours. The young women wear a gold ring on the middle finger of the right hand: when they marry it is changed to the left.

There are but very few dogs in Lapland, and these of a breed peculiar to the country, small sized, with cur tails and pointed ears, not unlike the wolf dog. They are very useful to hunters in the woods. They are generally well trained and of wonderful sagacity in finding game, particularly the chader and ora. After the bird is sprung the dog pursues and watches its perch, which commonly is upon a high tree. The bird becomes unaccountably fascinated by the steady posture and barking of the dog, so that the master has no difficulty in discovering the Object of his pursuit.

The fishing Laplanders chuse their habitation upon the shore of one of their Lakes. They are very dexterous in this art: and no wonder, as on this their whole subsistence depends. This however can only be a summer employment. When the lakes are frozen they are obliged to betake themselves to their forests, and subsist by hunting. The fish of these lakes are most excellent in quality and flavour, but they know not how to dress them. The following are the names by which the variety of them are known. The Gadda Abborre, Mort, Loyan, Gris, Ruda or Carassir, a species of the carp but much larger: the Stremling, and Negenogon, of the herring kind, but inhabitants of fresh water; the Lax, (or salmon) Skoma-karen, Rudor, Simper and Lake.

When the season approaches for curing their fish for their winter provisions, they are obliged to take a long and tedious Journey over deserts and mountains to procure Salt at their Sea-port towns. These Journeys are generally performed in large parties.

Scale of 3 Feet The KÄDER, Male & Female. (ad naturam)

LETTER XIX.

Tornao,

FROM the wild appearance of this mountainous region, far from population and cultivated life, the sportsman may expect the highest gratification. Wild game indeed of various kinds may be found here in great abundance. It cannot be expected in an excursion of this kind that I should give you a complete Natural History of the countries which I visit; neither will I pretend to be very accurate even in those things which I do describe. I can only relate what I beheld, and describe as well as the circumstances of our situation would permit.

Amongst others, the Kader, or Chader, is a remarkably fine bird, as large as a common turkey. The cock is black: the hen of an orange colour, and not quite so large as the cock. The hen generally lays about eight or ten eggs. One evening as Sir H. G. L. was out on a shooting party, his dog sprung a Chader; upon walking to the place he found her nest at the foot of a rotten fir-tree with eight eggs in it.—The Ora nearly resembles our black game in England but larger. But the Hierpe is reckoned the finest game that can be eaten; in size it is like a young pigeon; its colour, black, grey and white. (see the plate) The Snoripa is rather larger; for the first two years this bird turns white in the winter and grey in the summer, like the hares in this country. Afterwards it remains always white. This bird makes an extraordinary noise and particularly at nights. It is not to be found any where but in Lapland, or the neighbouring countries. By some accident a few years ago this bird happened to make its appearance within an hundred miles of Stockholm, which very much alarmed the common people in the neighbourhood where it was found. In short, from the particular noise it made at nights a report prevailed amongst the vulgar that the wood was haunted by a Ghost. So much were they terrified by this invisible spirit that nothing could tempt the post-boys after it was dark to pass this dreadful wood. This spirit, however, was at last happily removed by the sagacity of some gentlemen who
Scale of 2 Feet The ORRE. Male & Female (ad naturam)

Scale of 1 Foot The SNÖRIPA. (ad naturam)

sent their game-keepers by moon-light into the wood, and discovered the harmless Snoripa. The birds I have mentioned are reckoned great rarities at Stockholm, whither they are sent in the winter and sold at very high prices. Besides these they have the Moorkulla, Akeshon, Purrhons, Rapphons, Gelenotte, Kneeper, which is a kind of Snipe, and the Yierper.

Woodcocks breed both in Lapland and in Sweden as well as other northern countries. After the breeding Season, for a certain time, the woods of Lapland and Finland abound with them. These they call in their language the Season-bird, but they neither destroy or eat them, judging them to be unwholesome food, from the circumstance of their having no crops. It has been an observation in England that for several years past Woodcocks have become remarkably scarce. This may probably be accounted for in the following manner. Sweden like other countries, is making a gradual progress in the arts of Luxury, amongst which the indulgence of the palate takes no undistinguished place. Wild fowl eggs have of late become a great delicacy among the inhabitants of that country who encourage the Boors to sind out their nests. The egg of the Woodcock they are particularly fond of, which is about the size of that of the Plover, and is exceeding rich in flavour. I have seen the Boors offering large quantities of these eggs for sale in the market at Stockholm. From this practice it is not improbable but that the Breed of this bird as well as of the Chader, Ora, &c. will be greatly diminished, if not at last totally exterpated. Upon enquiry, however, I do not find that any alteration in point of quantity has, as yet, been perceived in Lapland.

LETTER XX.

Tornao,

FROM the number, size, and retired situation of the Lapland Lakes it may be imagined that they abound in a variety of aquatic fowls. This possibly may be the case, but in order to be a judge of this it would be necessary to take up our abode in these cold regions during the winter months. There are several of the Duck species to be found here; one I was shewn which had been shot by a boor resembling the Moor-cock in plumage, and which a person not well versed in Natural History might have mistaken for one, but the bill and feet proved it to be an inhabitant of the waters.

There is a small bird sometimes to be met with in this country and in other northern climates. One of this kind was lately taken near Ravensworth castle in the county of Durham, and is now in the possession of Lady Liddell. It is about the size of a Thrush. This bird is called the Siebenschwantz, or Bohemian Chatterer, a solitary bird, from whence it is conjectured to have been called the Micro-phoenix. It has a long tail of blue, red and yellow feathers which give it a very glowing appearance. On almost every feather of the wing there is a small red bright spot, like a drop of red sealing wax. This last has been particularly observed in a bird of the same size, though otherwise less gaily feathered, in the southern parts of America. But it seems probable that these birds are not of the same kind, as this has a tuft upon its head which does not answer the description of the other. It is not, however, surprizing that birds, who are well provided for long journeys, should be found in very distant countries, particularly as it seems within their power to remove from one place to another according to the temperature of different seasons, or for other reasons not so evident to men who are unable to judge of their Instincts.

From this country a large quantity of Aedder-down is collected from a duck of that name, to be found only in the northern climes. The Down, is of such value when in its purity, that it is sold for two rix-dollars per pound. It is extremely soft and warm, and so light and apt to expand that two handfulls squeezed together are sufficient to fill a Down Quilt, which is a covering like a feather bed used in those cold countries instead of a common quilt or blanket.

I must not forget to mention the Jo-Fugl, a bird remarkable for robbing other birds of their prey, which he is too lazy to look out for himself. If he cannot intimidate them by his cry or appearance, he strikes them with his bill so violently on the back, as to cause them to drop their excrement which he catches as it falls.

The Alk is a bird of the size of a small goose: it will dive twenty fathomas deep in pursuit of herrings, and has sometimes been drawn up by a fish-hook from that depth.

The Scarv or Loom is a very singular aquatic bird, about the size of a Muscovy duck. The egg after half an hours boiling remains liquid. The boors take these birds by lighting a fire under the rock where they build. The smoke and heat make them giddy, and they drop down in numbers.

Many clusters of Swallows in their torpid state, I was credibly informed, are frequently found by sishermen among reeds and bushes in the Lakes both of Norway and Sweden.

Tho' this country seems to be situated under an inclemnent Sky, yet we must not suppose that Nature has entirely deprived it of the fruits of the Earth. Besides others which may be found in cold climates the following are the native fruits of Lapland. The A'kerbar, which grows in stony places, and is reckoned a rarity at the first Tables in Sweden, it is preserved and used as a desert, from which also they make a sort of wine: the Hiortron, which grows in swamps, of the size of the Raspberry, is yellow, and very delicious to the palate: and the Lingon, a fruit not unlike a Cranbury, but as large again, which is preserved and generally used in Sweden to roast beef.

The forests of Lapland produce, in great perfection the spruce and silver fir. Another species has lately been discovered here called the Mazar-tree; it is a tall, thick and useful timber. The Bole when cut in two is beautifully variegated, and hard enough to take an excellent polish. Tables of great beauty, and other ornamental furniture have been made of this wood, which is purchased for this purpose by the Swedes and their northern neighbours.

Lapland too has its flowers, which during its short summer flourish in the vallies. This country in general is very mountainous and barren; the situations on its Lakes, however, and in the interstices of its Hills are picturesque and beautiful. But there are extensive forests dark and dismal, long and dreary plains, covered with moss, and swampy; the prospect of which cannot but make the Inhabitant of most other countries, truly thankful for comforts which the Laplander cannot possibly enjoy.

Yet even the native of Lapland does not want his Enjoyments.

Nature, a mother kind alike to all,

Still grants her bliss at Labour's earnest call;

With food as well the Peasant is supplied

On Lapland's Cliff, as Arno's shelvy side;

And tho' the rocky crested Summits frown,

These rocks, by custom, turn to beds of Down.

Goldsmith's Traveller.

LETTER XXI.

Tornao,

IT has not been my intention, as it certainly was beyond my ability, to give you a complete History of the present state of Lapland. To do this a long residence in the country would be required; it would be necessary to expose yourself to the bitter winter blasts of this inclement region, to climb mountains deemed inaccessible to the feet of man, to live in the dark and dirty Huts of the native inhabitants, and to seed upon slender cheese, or the powdered bark of some neighbouring tree. Now, you know me too well, to imagine that I would be thus liberal of my labours for the benefit of the world. Fatigue and Hunger are but miserable companions. Yet I will not say, how far curiosity and the Love of Novelty would carry me, to become better acquainted with this Polar Clime and country. You must, however, content yourself with such observations as I have been able to give you, and that you may not say I have carried you over so many Lakes and Mountains, through so many forests and plains, without offering one agreeable repast to your mind, I feel myself inclined to give you Thompson's beautiful description of the Scenes I have been describing. There is another advantage, I intend from this long quotation; and that is, if my reflections do not corroborate the sentiments of the Poet, the Poet will at least justify and illustrate my reflections. After describing the "martial hordes" of the north, this Poet of Nature proceeds,

Not such the Sons of Lapland: wisely they

Despise th' insensate barbarous trade of war;

They ask no more than simple nature gives,

They love their mountains, and enjoy their storms.

No false desires, no pride-created wants,

Disturb the peaceful current of their time;

And thro' the restless ever tortured maze

Of Pleasure or Ambition, bid it rage.

Their Rein-deer form their riches. These their tents

Their robes, their beds, and all their homely wealth

Supply, their wholesome fare and chearful cups.

Obsequious at their call, the docile tribe

Yield to the Sled their necks, and whirl them swift

O'er hill and dale, heap'd into one expanse

Of marbled Snow, as far as Eye can sweep

With a blue crest of ice unbounded glaz'd.

By dancing meteors then, that ceaseless shake

A waving blaze refracted o'er the heavens,

And vivid moons, and stars that keener play

With doubled lustre from the glossy waste,

Even in the depth of Polar night, they find

A wond'rous day; enough to light the chace

Or guide their daring steps to Finland sairs.

Wish'd Spring returns; and from the hazy South,

While dim Aurora slowly moves before,

The welcome Sun, just verging up at first,

By small degrees extends the swelling curve!

Till seen at last for gay rejoicing mouths,

Still round and round, his spiral course he winds,

And as he nearly dips his flaming orb,

Wheels up again, and re-ascends the Sky.

In that glad season from the Lakes and flood

Where pure Niemi's [†] fairy mountains rise,

And fring'd with roses Tenglio [*] rolls his stream,

They draw the copious fry. With these, at Eve

They chearful loaded to their tents repair;

Where, all day long in useful cares employ'd

Their kind unblemish'd wives the fire prepare.

Thrice happy race! by poverty secur'd,

From legal plunder and rapacious pow'r:

In whom fell Interest never yet has sown

The seeds of Vice: whose spotless swains ne'er knew

Injurious deed, nor, blasted by the breath

Of faithless love, their blooming daughters woe.

Thompson's Winter.

Notes

†
M. de Maupertuis, in his book on the figure of the Earth, after having described the beautiful Lake and Mountains of Niemi in Lapland, says, — "From this height, we had opportunity several times to see those vapours rise from the Lake, which the people of the country call Haltios, and which they deem to be the guardian Spirits of the mountains. We had been frighted with Stories of Bears that haunted this place, but saw none. It seemed rather a place of resort for Fairies and Genii than bears."
↵

*
The same Author observes—"I was surprized to see upon the banks of this river (Tenglio) roses of as lively a red as any that are in our Gardens."
↵

LETTER XXII.

Tornao,

A People that live without exercising the Arts of Agriculture, even the simple ones of ploughing, sowing and planting, affords a singular instance in the present History of the World. Such a people are the Natives of Lapland. Ignorant of all the improvements of Life, unknowing in the several embellishments of society, they live, in the interior parts of Lapland, as much as possible in a state of Nature.

Yet Providence, who always finds a substitute where full enjoyment is denied, darts a ray of contentment beneath the raster of the Laplander. Happy would it be for more polished society, if, in the midst of their entertainments, they could meet with the same consolation! If the native of Lapland possesses not his flocks and his herds, if he sees not around him vallies smiling with corn, nor his rich pastures and fine meadows, of this at least he is certain, that he has no occasion for them. His Rein-deer is his ALL. Of all tame animals this is at once the most serviceable and provided for with the least trouble and inconvenience. I have had occasion to remark that their usual food is moss when they are unable to procure grass upon the Mountains.

I have before mentioned both the Rein-deer and the Sledge; but as I have an opportunity of sending you a drawing of the latter, which has been purchased by Sir H. G. L. for the purpose of sending home as a curiosity, I shall add a more particular account of it.

The Sledge is shaped like a small boat, with a back-board for the person to lean against, who sits laced fast in, and well secured from the cold. It is peaked before, to which part the leather thong is fixed which yokes the rein-deer to the carriage. There is a cloth girt around the body of the animal which is fastened on the back. The bit is a piece of small leather tacked to the reins of the bridle over the deer's head and neck, and from the breast a leather strap passing under the belly is fastened to the fore-part of the Sledge which serves instead of Shafts.

The LAPLAND SLEDGE.

- a. The leather strap or trace by which the Sledge is drawn,

- b. Pieces of different coloured cloth formed into a rose.

- c. The covering of the Sledge made of beautiful spotted Seal-skin.

- d. A Brass ring and looped piece of cord.

- e. Green cloth with a red scalloped border.

- f. Cloth.

- g. Yellow cloth.

- h. A Plate of brass 'round the back-board.

- i. Cordage.

- k. A crooked piece of horn, and the strap pulled through a loop of several ply of cordage.

LETTER XXIII.

Tornao,

IT may be expected while I am at this place that I should say something of the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Province of Swedish Finland. Tornao, as I have informed you, stands at the very head of the Gulf of Bothnia, the eastern shore of which is inhabited by the Finlanders, subjects of the King of Sweden. The other division of Finland lies further to the east and owes allegiance to the Empress of Russia.

The Finlanders which fell under our observation at, and near, Tornao, appear to be more uncouth in their figures, less civilized in their manners, and less intelligible in their language than their neighbours, the natives of Lapland. Like these, they are low in stature, but stout and active, and from that temperance inseparable from their situation, live to very great ages. Their country is of the same nature with Swedish Lapland, abounding in mountains, high and rugged, with rich and fertile vales, extensive and beautiful lakes. Many of these Lakes are navigable and might be made still more so at a very trifling expence. They communicate with the Gulf of Finland, and might very easily be made the seats of a good Trade. Ships are built here of a very large burthen; and Ship building in this place is a trade, which from the cheapness of materials might be very beneficial. Several French Agents during the late war, visited Tornao to purchase Tar and other naval stores. This in all probability would have turned to great advantage, if the suddenness of the Peace had not put a stop to their transactions. From this circumstance, I was credibly informed, they lost above a third part of their contract.

At Tornao there is a great annual Fair, frequented by the mountain Laplanders and Finlanders. At that season they resort thither in great companies, and barter furs and other commodities, the produce of their country, for hardware and other necessaries. This Fair continues a week, and is considered as a sort of Finland Jubilee. When they depart for their own mountains the arrangement of their Deer and loaded Pulchas or Sledges makes a very singular appearance. They do not travel in a mixed multitude and without order, but with much regularity and method. Precedency is always claimed, and allowed to the Senior. The others follow in rotation, which presents to the Eye a Procession of Deer and Sledges; the uncouth figures of men, and utensils of various kinds and shapes, extending from seven to eight or nine miles in length.

The Furs, which are purchased by the merchants of Tornao and the other Finland Towns, are made into male and female dresses, and sent to Stockholm and other parts of Sweden.

There is no very essential difference between this country and those of the neighbouring Latitudes. Their fish, fowl, and wild animals, are much the same, though preference has sometimes been given to the Finland Fish. The Lakes, though of a pacific appearance, and presenting to the Eye a transparent glassy surface, are often turbulent and stormy, so that many instances have occurred of Vessels, even of large burthens, being ship-wrecked.

The Religion of the Inhabitants of Finland, like those of Lapland, is the Lutheran. But, alas! much is still wanting to make them real Christians. It would be a charitable action, nay I could go farther and say, that it is the duty of all the neighbouring Sovereigns to endeavour to inculcate the knowledge of true Christianity into this, yet unenlightened, People. They are not separated by unnavigable Seas, or inaccessible mountains. Their understandings, though unimproved, are not mean: their tempers, though rough and uncivilized, are yet gentle enough to receive Instruction. It would be a glorious act to undertake to civilize this ferocious people. I would not here be understood to mean that this is a general description of all ranks of men in this district of the Globe. I would confine these observations to the mountain Inhabitants, for the Inhabitants of their large Towns and other places of trade are not far behind the rest of the world in the arts of Life, or in the cultivation of Religion.

LETTER XXIV.

Pithia, June 27.

THE most nothern point to which our Journey extended was Tornao, from whence I have endeavoured to give you some account of the Inhabitants of this country. We left that place yesterday, and though our accommodations were not of the most agreeable nature, yet they were rendered tolerable by the civility and politeness with which we were entertained. We had not travelled far, before we were informed, that we might have an opportunity of observing a Laplander and his family who were feeding their herd of Rein-deer at no great distance. We got out of the carriage, and walked about the distance of an English mile through a very thick wood where we found their family in a Tent or Hut. This consisted of an old man, his wife, a young man and his wife with a very young child, probably about two months old. The infant was most curiously trussed up in a cradle or machine, almost resembling a fiddle-case, made of the thick bark of a tree, so formed that it exactly contained the Babe who was fixed in it with a kind of brass chain, made so portable and light that the mother might easily carry it in one hand. This cradle, which is also sometimes made of a hollow piece of timber like a small boat, the Lapland women when they travel, tie with the child in it, to their back. The child is not covered with bed clothes, but with a soft and fine moss, over which they lay the tender skin of a young Rein-deer. When they rock the child they fasten the cradle with a rope to the top of the Hut, and tossing it from one side to the other, lull the child asleep. This Lapland family invited us to their tent and offered us their common, and only, fare which consists of deer's milk, and cheese made of the same milk: occasionally they eat deer's flesh, but have no kind of bread. We presented them in return for their civilities with some wine which they seemed to relish very much, but gave us to understand that Brandy would have been more acceptable.

The Laplanders are a strong featured people, low in stature, but so constitutionally hard as to bear the severity of the most inclement season. These people are generally born-in woods, and are frequently upon the snow, and wanderers from their birth to their life's end. Their Huts are formed of pieces of timber or rafters joined together and covered with turf or the branches or bark of pine trees, so that architecture here may be said to appear in its first rudiments. Sometimes coarse cloth makes a part of the covering of their tents. In some places, we were told, that their houses were built upon the trunks of trees, raised above the surface of the earth, or upon a stone foundation, to prevent, in those desolate regions, their being overwhelmed in the enormous drifts of snow, or devoured by wild beasts.

In Summer, the Laplanders wear a close garment which reaches to the middle of their legs girded close about them with a belt. They have no linen, but their clothes are made in general of a coarse wool without dying; their shoes and caps, of the skin of the Rein-deer with the hair outwards. In winter their clothes are of skin with the hair inwards. The Women's apparel is not very different from that of the men.

It is said that the natives of Lapland are great cowards, and for that reason, the Swedes never employ them as Soldiers. How unlike are these to the brave Highlanders of Scotland, whose courage and intrepidity are as immovable as their mountains! [*]

After feasting with the Laplanders, we pursued our Journey without intermission till we arrived at Vitan. Here, though our accommodations were miserable to a great degree, we took a little rest which we were in great need of. This evening we arrived once more at Pithia where we have been most hospitably received by the Burgo-master, whose politeness and civility we had before experienced.

Notes

*
Extreme cold has diminished the Stature and congealed the faculties of the Laplanders; and the Arctic tribes, alone among the Sons of men, are ignorant of War, and unconscious of human blood: an happy Ignorance, if reason and Virtue were the Guardians of their Peace! [†]
↵

†
Buffon, Hist. Naturelle, tom. v. p. 6. in 12mo. Gustavus Adolphus attempted, without success, to form a Regiment of Laplanders. Grotius says of these Arctic Tribes, Arma arcus et pharetra, sed adversus seras. (Annal. 1 IV. p. 236.) and attempts after the manner of Tacitus to varnish with Philosophy their brutal Ignorance. Gibbon's Hist. vol. 5. page 551. quarto.
↵

LETTER XXV.

Uma, June 29.

WE ordered horses at four in the morning of the 28th. promising ourselves some repast upon the road, but no refreshment of any kind could be obtained till we arrived at Sunnana about four in the afternoon. The Poverty of the country is beyond any thing you can conceive. We slept the same night at Burea the residence of dirt and famine, but quitted it as expeditiously as posible.

On Thursday the 29th. we breakfasted at Gumboda another seat of misery and want. Sir H. G. L.'s liberality of three Rix Dollars was here most humanely applied and gratefully received by a poor indigent Boor, who had reared a family of seven children with hardly any other subsistence than the Bark of the fir-tree. The sight of such a sum, and the possession of it also, almost overcame the poor man: his meagre, pensive and melancholy visage soon brightened up and changed to joy and gladness. Thousands of his countrymen are in the same miserable situation.

In the course of our Journey this day, after we had passed Gumboda, we received an invitation to dine with the Dean of Bögde. Our empty Stomachs could by no means refuse so well timed an invitation. We were received at the door by the Dean and his Lady. The Dean was a portly good looking elderly Gentleman, his Lady young and rather handsome.

After some little formal ceremony we were ushered into a very handsome apartment and set down to what we were now quite strangers to, a good Dinner. The Dean speaking neither French nor English, accosted us in Latin. Sir Harry, being the best Linguist, found out two phrases which were of great use to us, bonum vinum and pone circum. These though a little out of the Dean's depth, he soon was made to understand, and we profited by his knowledge.

After Coffee, and many expressions of thanks to our hospitable Dean and his Lady for their unbounded civility, we took our departure and arrived at Uma this evening. In our way we passed through a small but pleasant town called Ojebyn, which was the native place of the celebrated Doctor Solander. His mother, we were informed, is still living in that place.

LETTER XXVI.

Sunval, July 2.

WE left Uma early on the morning of the 30th. but were detained at Dejecnaboda four hours for want of horses. Having crossed many rivers and met with various impediments we did not arrive at the town of Anskt till near ten o'clock, where we intended to take a little refreshment, but were obliged to content ourselves with very short commons. Here, also, we proposed sleeping; bnt, alas! the want of beds obliged us to travel for the rest of the night.

The next day about noon we arrived at Veda with a strong inclination to dine but were much disappointed; famine and dirt having got a prior possession of that place. Our mortification was not a little increased by being detained with such disagreeable companions. We attempted to cross a very large lake in a small boat, but were not able from the inactivity or inexperience of the watermen who were afraid to take charge of the carriage, the wind blowing rather strong. Ferry boats of a large burthen not being used here, we were obliged to lash two small boats together, by which means, though with no small difficulty, the carriage got safe over. But our distresses did not cease here. Either through the wilful negligence of the boors or indolence of our host, no horses could be procured for seven hours; this indeed was a further and unexpected intrusion on the small remnant of patience we had left. But time, the surmounter of all difficulties, at length released us, and brought us to the town of Hernosand, a beautiful well built Sea-port of much traffic. Here indeed we fared sumtuously, which produced (I fear for the first time) a grateful thanksgiving for what we were going to receive, &c. Great and due commendations I must bestow on the Inn and our Host in particular; every thing being neat, clean and good of its kind; the first and only compliment I have hitherto had in my power to pay to a Swedish Publican.

After a short stay at Hernosand we pursued our Journey towards Sunval where we arrived very late on the 2d. of July. Having so many rivers to cross, and to travel over a mountainous country, we found were great impediments to expedition. A very great drought had prevailed for many weeks and we suffered much inconvenience from the heat, but this evening a fine refreshing rain seasonably relieved us. While we were sitting at Supper this evening we were agreeably entertained by some Shepherdesses who played upon a kind of long trumpet made of the bark of the birch-tree, called in the Swedish language, Lur. This musical Instrument is sometimes four yards in length, has a strong and sharp sound, and in calm weather can be heard at the distance of four or five miles. It is generally used by the Shepherds in the woods and mountains, and employed by them with much success in frightening away wild animals.

LETTER XXVII.

Igsund, 3. July.

WE set out early in the morning from Sunval and arrived the same evening at Igsund where we had been so hospitably entertained on our road to Tornao. The same Gentleman politely received us again and we slept at his house.

From the neighbourhood of this place were the two Lapland Girls taken, who are intended by Sir H. G. L. to be sent to England, to fulfil a particular Engagement which he had made. As it is my intention afterwards to write you a full account of these females, I shall pass over the subject at present. It will then be in my power to inform you, how they performed their Journey and Voyage, how they were received and treated in England, and by what means they returned to their native country. Certain it is, we had no difficulty in persuading them to undertake this Enterprize. They immediately accepted our offers and relied with the greatest confidence on our professions. As their minds were entirely uncorrupted by the Influence of foreign Intercourse, as they had never travelled beyond their native mountains, as their return was at least uncertain, it is very remarkable that they should so easily be prevailed upon to leave their friends and connexions, their Huts and their flocks, to undertake a dangerous, or at least a tedious, Journey and Voyage, to visit a country of which they were ignorant, and reside among a People whose manners and customs they could not know. This probably may in some measure be accounted for from the poverty of their own country. Yet still we find in the History of the human race, an Inclination deeply rooted and strong, towards our native home. There is something in the very word Home that fills us with inexpressible affection. And if, according to the old English Maxim, it be ever so homely, still our wants and our wishes center there.

From these thoughts, my friend, you will conclude that my reflections at this moment are turned upon poor OLD ENGLAND. They are indeed. And while I am viewing these bleak mountains and barren heaths, while I turn my Eyes upon a large extent of sandy deserts or immeasurable woods, I cannot forbear casting one Sigh towards a snug retreat amidst the Cleveland Hills, or the rich plains of the Bishopric of Durham.

Variety, however, renders all Situations agreeable. It will be some pleasure to me to reflect that I have been in Lapland. Nor can any one describe the comfort arising from a good dinner and a bottle of honest Port so well as he who has been in want of both. Such therefore are the consolations that may be drawn from the variety of circumstances with which this world abounds. Such I suppose were the expectations of the Lapland Girls when they agreed to accompany us to England.

As our time is not always at our own disposal, as we are sometimes governed by winds and waves, sometimes by post-boys and post-horses, you must forgive me if my Letters do not always reach a reasonable length. But believe me, whether in England or in Lapland, whether writing on gilt-edged paper, or on a scrap torn from your own Letters, still I remain faithfully your's.

LETTER XXVIII.

Avestadt, 7. July.

THE Gentleman, whose politeness I have before remarked, and at whose house we were so hospitably entertained at Igsund, proposed a fishing party on the morning of the fourth, on the Lake which is contiguous to his house. His Son was so obliging as to make one of our company, and do his utmost endeavours to entertain us. The Scheme, however, though well intended did not answer our expectations of pleasure. Our Sport was not good; and therefore we exchanged our Entertainment on the water for a good dinner with our hospitable host.

In the afternoon, with many Expressions of thanks, we took our leave, and continued our Journey. We did not halt till we came to Gefle, near one hundred miles distant from Igsund. By disappointments in procuring horses, and other impediments, we did not arrive there till the next morning at ten o'clock. After so long and fatiguing a Journey, you may imagine, we were greatly in want of rest. Therefore after taking some refreshment we retired to bed and slept till four in the afternoon; then dined, and set forwards again a little before one in the morning.

We arrived at Faulund, a town in the province of Dalarna, remarkable for a great copper mine, about nine o'clock at night; after having been confined to our carriage about twenty-eight hours without any sort of Provision whatever and encountering our usual difficulties with respect to post-horses. The indolence and unconcern of the inhabitants and people of this place surpass all conception. After a tedious and tiresome Journey we naturally hoped and looked for some refreshment, especially in so large a town, but our expectations were there defeated by a succession of additional grievances; such as, the want of food, a dirty house, a drunken landlord, with many other circumstances equally comfortless and disagreeable.

The town of Faulund is a large, and undoubtedly an opulent, town, on account of the circulation of money that must naturally accrue from the carrying on so immense and extensive a work. These copper works are undoubtedly worth the traveller's inspection. The impositions we met with in Faulund and the many delays upon the road from the wilful obstinacy and incivility of the people, urged us to the disagreeable necessity of making a formal complaint against them to the Burgo-master, as also to the Commandant. Sir H. G. L. shewed a very proper and necessary spirit upon this occasion.

On the 7th. we arrived at Avestadt where there is a curious copper work, and also the King's mint for coining copper money. The variety of purifications which that metal undergoes, as well as the various processes before it comes to the mint, are well worth observation. The Governor of the mint paid us much attention, giving us an invitation to his house, and treating us with strong beer, a rare and uncommon beverage in that country! At this place we met the Spanish and Dutch Ambassadors on a tour through that country, with a very inconsiderable retinue.

LETTER XXIX.

Upsala, July 8.

WE arrived at Sahla between two and three o'clock on the morning of the 8th. of July. Near this town there is a considerable Silver mine. The Ore from which the metal is extracted resembles the lead ore in England. Indeed many of the English lead mines yield a large quantity of Silver. As we are only birds of passage I had no opportunity of examining the manner of working these mines, neither can I give you any account of their produce. We were told that the mine we passed near this place is about two hundred and twenty six fathoms in depth.

In the last division of our Journey we did not travel over inhospitable deserts as before, neither through woods of immeasurable length, but through a fine rich cultivated country. In short the whole of the road from Fauland to Upsala was pleasant and agreeable. The Tillageground appeared to be well wrought and clear of weeds, and to my surprize was judiciously trenched. The grain principally cultivated was Rye with a little Barley and some Wheat. The province of Agriculture is not altogether intrusted to men as in England. Women here bear their part, and handle the plough, which on that account is made very light and small.

In the afternoon we arrived once more at Upsala and lost no time in viewing this ancient City and University. This has been a place of Eminence from the earliest times of the Swedish History. All the Kings of Sweden before the reformation were crowned and buried here, and here Queen Christina resigned her Crown in the year 1654. The celebrity of this place indeed in the times of Popery was owing, not so much, perhaps, to its being the place of the residence of their Kings as of the Archbishop: for the Archbishops of Upsala frequently made a greater figure than the Kings themselves, and deposed them according to their own power and Interest.

The City of Upsala is situated upon the banks of the river Sala which falls into the Lake Encopen and is about thirty miles north west from Stockholm. There is an old Castle here built and fortified after the Gothic manner which stands high and commands the whole City. In former days, this fortress was a place of great importance. There are many excellent paintings, medals and other curiosities in the possession of the University. Though Upsala has been for many centuries a place of Eminence, yet the University was not founded till 1476 when Pope Sixtus Quartus gave it all the privileges of the University of Bononia. King Gustavus Adolphus was a great Patron of Learning throughout all his Dominions, and amongst others was very liberal to this place. He endowed Professorships in most Sciences with tolerable Salaries. These received an Augmentation from the Piety and Munificence of his daughter the celebrated Christina, whose Protection of learned men and Encouragement to every branch of Science is deservedly extolled. This Princess was the Patroness of the learned Grotius whom she called to Sweden, made him one of her counsellors and sent him Ambassador to Lewis XIII. After he had discharged the Duties of his Employment he set out from France to give an account of his Embassy to his royal Mistress. He met Queen Christina at Stockholm, and after he had discoursed with her about the affairs he had been entrusted with; he most humbly begged of her to grant him his dismission. This, he had much difficulty to obtain, though this Princess gave him several marks of her great Esteem for him. She invited Cartesius to Sweden, and was never more happy than in the Promotion of Piety and Learning. So long as Upsala is remembered, Linnaeus, whom I have once before mentioned, will not be forgotten. The King himself bore testimony to his merits in a public Speech which he made soon after the Death of that truly celebrated man.

I must not forget to mention the venerable Cathedral at this place, in which lie entombed the ancient Kings of Sweden. This is a very magnificent Structure. In it is an excellent Organ, very beautifully ornamented; there is also a Clock very justly mentioned by all Historians of Upsala, as a particular Curiosity. It shews not only the day, hour and minute but also the remarkable motions of the heavenly bodies; and besides these, it tells every festival, whether fixed or moveable, with many other singularly curious operations. Near the Altar the Remains of King Eric stand inclosed in a Silver gilt box, where they have rested quietly and undisturbed upwards of three hundred years. Tradition says he was slain by the Danes, in a battle, upon a Sunday. The Enemy approached Upsala when the King was at his devotions in the Cathedral. He would not move till the Service was over, when he found the greatest part of the City in the hands of the Enemy. He made an assault, and though he sell, his People were victorious.

LETTER XXX.

Stockholm, 10. July.

YESTERDAY about six in the morning we re-entered the metropolis of Sweden, not a little rejoiced to find ourselves once more in a civilized country. Our first care was to enjoy some of those comforts we had been so long deprived of. A refreshing sleep, with clean sheets, were charms not to be resisted. You will not therefore be surprized that we indulged most of that day in bed. In the afternoon, as it was Sunday, we attended divine Service in the King's Chapel, but could not expect much edification from our ignorance of the language. The Preacher seemed very much animated in the delivery of his Sermon which continued almost an hour.

Our continuance at Stockholm lays us under great obligations to Sir Thomas Wroughton, who has given orders to his Secretary to attend us upon several Excursions, particularly to Drottingholm Palace, which is well worth the stranger's notice. We passed the lake Meller in the Admiral's barge, which Sir Thomas had procured us for the occasion. This Palace is a stately fabric, situated on the banks of the lake Meller; the Gardens, though extensive, did not impress us with the Idea of Royalty. They are very much neglected and laid out in the Dutch taste, which began to prevail in England in the time of King William. I must own I was equally disappointed in the Paintings. Though I pretend not to be any great connoisseur myself in this agreeable art, yet I could discern that they were more adapted to an attic story or lumber garret than to be used as the ornamental decorations of a Royal Palace.

There is at this place a very curious collection of Antiquities by the late Queen Dowager, particularly from the ruins of Herculaneum, with other Roman curiosities. There is also a well collected Library, which does the royal Foundress much credit. This Palace is the favorite Summer residence of his present Majesty; I was therefore the more astonished to see so little attention paid, to render it neat and comfortable.

LETTER XXXI.

Stockholm.

THE City of Stockholm, though at present the Metropolis of the Kingdom of Sweden, was, not many centuries ago, a place of no great importance. Indeed we are told, that not much above three hundred years since, it was only an Island with two or three cottages for Fishermen: but upon building a Castle here to watch the motions of their Russian neighbours, and afterwards the Court making this a place of residence, it was raised by degrees to its present state of Prosperity. This Castle was burnt down about a century ago, but has been rebuilt in a more magnificent manner.

The City at present extends itself over six Islands, which are connected together by bridges, with very extensive Suburbs. The rocks, particularly towards the Sea, form a sort of natural fortification. The Harbour is very large and commodious, and will contain one thousand sail of Ships. But with all its conveniences as a harbour, the utility of its situation is diminished from the difficulty of communication with the Sea. The lake Meller falls from it into the Baltic; but the passage having so many windings, and the circumstance of there being no tides to assist the navigation of the Ships, renders it very difficult of access. And if to this we add, that for four months at least in every year they are frozen up, these circumstances will be found great impediments to Commerce. The Population of the capital of Sweden is reckoned at about one hundred thousand Souls. The Castle, which is used as an arsenal, as well as for the lodgings of the Officers, is a large building, and covered with copper, as several buildings are in Stockholm, from the many Copper-mines with which this country abounds.

I am unable to inform you of the exact produce of the copper and iron mines of Sweden; doubtless it must be very large both to the proprietors and the King who receives about a fourth part. Yet notwithstanding the large Income of the Crown, it is by no means equal to the annual Expences of the Government.—The Market which is held at Stockholm is a circumstance I must not omit. The Butcher-meat is sold in shambles on the shore, while Vegetables and other marketable commodities are exposed to sale in boats upon the water. This is at once a singular and pleasing sight. The moving Shops and variety of wares that are passing before your eyes, the busy mixed multitude which croud the surface of the water, render this a very agreeable Scene. Something of this kind may be seen in the Thames upon the arrival of a large fleet in the Pool.

In Stockholm, as in other cold countries, the custom of drinking Spirits prevails rather too much. Even Ladies, who by no means deserve an improper Epithet, comply with this pernicious custom. It is usual in this country, previous to dinner, for the company to assemble round the Side-board, and to regale themselves with bread, butter, cheese, or any thing of that nature, which preface is regularly followed in both sexes by a bumper of brandy. This custom in the fair sex reminds me of a set of Rules which I have seen for the regulation of a Russian Assembly. It concludes with this remarkable Injunction—"N. B. Ladies are not to be drunk before ten o'clock."

I had occasion in a former letter to mention the distilleries of this kingdom. I cannot omit, though a circumstance I never before heard of, to inform you that Grain is not the only ingredient used in Sweden for the distilling of Spirits. The low priced Brandies are made from Rye and Ants, a species of Insect very plentiful in this country. Upon enquiry I find, that "Ants supply a Resin, an Oil and an Acid, which have been deemed of considerable service in the art of Physic." [*] The Ant used upon these occasions is a remarkably large black Insect, commonly found in small round hills at the bottom of the fir-tree. It is less to be wondered that they should use these Insects in their distilleries than that they should eat them and consider them as highly palatable and pleasant. As I was walking with a young Gentleman in a wood near Gottenburg, I observed him sit down upon one of these living hills, which from the nature of its inhabitants I should rather have avoided, and begin with some degree of keenness to devour these Insects, first nipping off their heads and wings. The slavour he declared was of the finest acid, rather resembling that of a Lemon. My young friend intreated me much to follow his example, but I could not overcome the antipathy which I felt to such a kind of food.

Notes

*
See Cyclopaedia. Word, Ant.
↵

LETTER XXXII.

Stockholm,

WHEN I left this place a month ago, I promised, on my return, to lay before you such reflections as might happen to occur. I shall therefore, like a man of my word, proceed to fulfil that promise and, as Dogberry says in the Play, "bestow all my tediousness upon you."

I have passed so large a tract of country during the last few weeks that you will naturally expect to hear something of the Agriculture of Sweden. If the knowledge of Agriculture could be learned, or by any means attained by the Swedish Peasants; and the large and almost unlimmited tracts of ground be unincumbered of wood, which I have no doubt might be effected by time and industry, what a blessed change might be wrought in the sace of this country! The quality of the Soil appears in general no way inferior to ours in England; there is no reason therefore to suppose but that the common method of English husbandry would equally promote and produce the like vegetation in Sweden.

One day when we were at dinner with Sir Thomas Wroughton, where agriculture and improvements were the topic of conversation, I could not help regretting that so very large a tract of improvable ground, as I had lately passed over, should be suffered to continue in so rude and uncultivated a state, which by the hand of the industrious ploughman might become rich and fertile. It is too true replied a Swedish Gentleman present, but indolence and inactivity are the constitutional failings of my countrymen, and may probably be ascribed to the severity of the climate in which we live. We enjoy no mediocrity of season; there is here no Spring or natural progressive warmth to introduce Summer, neither any Autumn, or gradual decrease of heat which might temper the habit against so sudden a transition to an inclement Winter. Each Season from its intenseness deprives the body of its proper and necessary exertion. This produces inability and habitual indolence. But though the productions of this country are comparatively so very insignificant, yet are they more speedy in their growth than perhaps any other part of the world. The Sun is eighteen hours and a half above the horizon for some weeks. This in a great measure excludes night, and the heat of the Sun multiplies in proportion to its duration.

LETTER XXXIII.

Stockholm.

ARCHITECTURE, as well as other arts and sciences, is at this day in Sweden at least a century behind England. I must not, however, omit observing their method of building bridges over their broadest and deepest rivers, several of which we passed in our Excursion to the northern parts of this kingdom. They are undoubtedly tremendous to the stranger, who might imagine with some kind of dread that instead of measuring the breadth of the waters he is about to cross, he would first be obliged to sathom the depth. They have no quay or wall on either side of the river on which to form a basis for such a building, it is therefore curiously and well constructed in this manner. The thickest end of a thick piece of timber, the length and shape of the mast of a large ship, is fastened to the rock or mountain, the other end extended on the water; a second timber of the same length is placed upon it, extending a fathom beyond it, and so a third, and sourth, to the middle of the stream, where it meets with another series of timber-masts from the opposite side, and this without any cement, but merely resting upon each other; so that in passing this, as it were, floating bridge, the elasticity is sometimes so great that about the middle it appears to swing and the weight of either horse or carriage dips it under the surface of the water; a circustance so tremendous and apparently dangerous, that a person unaccustomed to such bridges may well imagine that it will rise no more. I have frequently seen travellers stop and water their horses on the middle of the bridge when they already touch the water from the subsiding of the platform. When freed from the weight of the carriage or passenger it immediately rises to its proper height.

Were it not for the intense cold and drifted snow, a passage over the rivers and lakes in winter would be as much more commodious for the traveller, as it is for the business and intercourse of the inhabitants, who are safely conveyed over the ice in sledges at the rate of fifteen English miles an hour.

I have often observed in this country, though in so high a northern latitude, especially near towns, without even the benefit of manure, a rich natural herbage, from whence it is obvious that grass and tillage don't delight both in the same climate, as there is often very little corn and that of a very inferior quality, where grass is both plentiful and luxuriant. As for the esculent productions of Gardens, these they have neither taste nor industry for, nor even curiosity to promote; except indeed a kind of turnip, which is useful in their soups, tobacco, and flax, which I have observed in small quantities near huts and cottages. This, I think, is the utmost extent of their improvements in Agriculture.

LETTER XXXIV.

Stockholm.

IN the northern parts of Sweden fruit-trees seldom or ever arrive at any degree of perfection, but the inexhaustible Forests liberally compensate that defect. Even the most barren mountains are singularly productive of trees, more particularly of the pine tree, which will shoot from the smallest fissures of the rocks and thrive much better than when carefully planted in a good soil. The firtree thrives best in an independent situation (if I may be allowed the expression) when the seeds are scattered abroad by the keen northern blast. This is the easiest method of propagating this tree, and the most likely way to make it flourish. Collect the cones which contain the seed, hang them up till perfectly dry, then commit the seed which is small and light, to the spontaneous distribution of the wind. There is a peculiar moss adherent to those trees which in winter and the deepest snows is a natural provender to the rein-deer: its quality is of the same nature with that which grows upon the rocks on the barren summits of the mountains. For this reason when the snow is impenetrably frozen in the severe winter, the boors are obliged to cut down some thousands of those moss-cloathed trees for the sustenence of their herds.

LETTER XXXV.

Stockholm.

IN the Citadel we were shewn a set of small Ordnance which belonged to King Charles XII. consisting of four and twenty brass cannon mounted on their carriages. Very early in Life, before his Love of Destruction had occasioned so many wild adventures, he used to amuse himself with firing at objects with this artillery. Probably it would have been happier for him, as well as his country, if he had been always thus innocently employed. General Stenbork was the Prince's Instructor in this Science. He had discovered several Improvements in the art of Gunnery, and got this set of brass cannon cast to illustrate his principles to his royal Pupil, for whom he intended them as a present.

There is an Anecdote related of this Prince which happened at the time of his receiving this present. As it in some measure had an influence on his future conduct towards the Ladies, I will tell it you, without, however, vouching for its authenticity. Very early the next morning after he had received this present, before it was light, he waited privately upon the General. After much knocking, the door was opened by a Maid Servant and in a few moments the royal visitor was at the bed-side of the General. After returning thanks for so acceptable a present, and a long discourse on the General's new plan of sending a cannon ball to its greatest distance, he took his leave, and was lighted down stairs by the same maid servant that introduced him.

Though unaccustomed to acts of Gallantry, and always upon his guard against Excesses of this kind, yet for once Charles was surprized by an amourous Inclination. Observing the attendant to be a young and handsome Girl he attempted to take some liberties with her which were not agreeable. Being a native of Dahlarna, and not knowing, or pretending not to know the Prince, she gave him an hearty box on the Ear. From this time, it is said, •e took a dislike to the Fair-sex: it is certain that he never afterwards sought their society. Even the beautiful Lady Koningsmark, who was reckoned the handsomest woman of that time, could never make any impression upon his heart. When this Lady found herself slighted by him, she left the Kingdom, and became Mistress to the King of Poland.

From that time they never met but once; when that was, I think I will inform you, as I am now in the humour for telling a Story. At the time King Charles XII. laid Siege to Warsaw, he, with very few attendants, left the camp and rode privately to the City to see an Opera which was to be represented that evening. The Subject probably had attracted him, and he did not always consider the consequences of a rash action; this was the representation of a Battle between the Polish and Swedish Armies, the former of which upon this occasion was certain of success. At the end of the Mock-fight one of the Swedish Officers exclaimed "We are undone now": the King replied, "Let the Poles obtain the Battle on the Stage but the Swedes in the Field." His voice was heard by Lady Koningsmark, who knew him at once, and with great anxiety dispatched a Page to apprize him of his danger. When the King received the Message he looked towards the Lady, who immediately fainted. The King and his attendants took the hint which had been so kindly given them, and returned to the Camp, before the Poles gained the least intelligence that that august Person had been present in the very heart of their City, as an humble Spectator of the defeat of himself and his Army.

LETTER XXXVI.

Nordkoping.

WE left Stockholm on the evening of the 17th. and slept at Soder-telge a small town two stages from the metropolis. The next morning our road lay through a very fine sertile country with large luxuriant fields of corn and other tillage. They were making hay in the meadows which seemed to yield very plentiful crops. The roads in general are not unlike those of Lapland, passing through very extensive forests, over rocks and steep hills. We were much delayed by the King's retinue which was then upon the road. All the post-horses, &c. were engaged for their conveyance which prevented our arrival at Nordkoping till two in the morning.

This is one of the largest and best built Towns in the Swedish dominions, pleasantly situated on the banks of a beautiful lake. Notwithstanding which it could not so much as afford either tolerable provision or any comfortable accommodation. Happy were we to find beds, though bad ones; to these we retired like Philosophers with the old proverb in our mouths, "What cannot be cured" &c. We took our departure so early the next morning from the famous town of Nordkoping, that I lamented much that we were not able to examine it with more attention, as what I saw in passing through appeared truly beautiful.

It stands upon a large space of ground; a beautiful river runs through the middle of it; though not navigable, yet it has a commercial appearance. Upon enquiry I found it was not remarkable for trade or any particular manufactory. There are many shops and neat well built houses; the streets are spacious and regular, but like the rest of the Swedish towns it is ill-paved. The churches are lofty and magnificent.

After passing through the town, which took up some time, we entered a most delightful country, and were agreeably surprized to find Prospects around us which brought to our remembrance Old England. We were treated with many noble views not inferior to those of Richmond or Windsor; large fields of luxuriant corn; hills richly cloathed with lofty trees, especially oaks of an uncommon size. The beautiful and large lake Wetter, along the side of which we travelled, extends itself for several miles, with many pleasant villages on its banks. There is in the center of this lake an Island fourteen or fifteen miles long, which forms one complete parish and is a most delightful place of residence. This night we spent at Nordkoping from whence I write.

LETTER XXXVII.

ON the 20th. we continued our Journey through a fine country, with delightful views, for near five Swedish miles; after which we entered woods, with a swampy country on each side. Our delays have been so frequent for want of horses that we have been obliged to travel incessantly night and day, and to compleat our distresses frequently have not been able to procure any refreshment. We were not so provident as other travellers who are acquainted with the miseries of such a country as this, and carry their provision along with them. The next day we passed through extensive woods which continued for many miles; the oaks in particular seemed to be remarkably fine and of much antiquity. It is somewhat extraordinary that they are not converted to some useful purpose, as every oak in Sweden is the property of the King whose poverty frequently demands assistance from his Subjects.

As many travellers were at this time upon the road, the provisions which, at the best, are but scanty, were all consumed before our arrival at the several stages, so that from six on friday morning the 21st. we travelled till saturday morning without food or sleep, except a very small portion (accidentally met with) of hard salt Swedish beef. Delicious morsel! and of great relief after so long a fast. Our additional troubles were, as usual, want of horses as well as want of beds.

About eleven in the morning of Saturday the 2d. we arrived at Helsingborg a pretty town garrisoned by Swedish Huzzars and situated on the side of the narrow Streight, known by the name of the Sound, on the coast opposite Elsinore. There is a small sortified Castle at this place, in which, as I was informed, there is a Dungeon an hundred and seventy five feet deep. In this dismal prison many of the Danish Nobility were confined and numbers of them suffered to perish during the long and destructive Wars between those neighbouring Kingdoms.

The Governor very politely waited upon us and gave us an invitation to his house, which time would not permit us to accept. After some small refreshment we embarked for Denmark in a small vessel, crossed the Sound and landed at Elsinore, a place of Trade and garrisoned.

There was much superfluous trouble and parade in examining our passport as well as baggage. The magnificent Castle of Cronenburg stands alone by the Sea, to guard the passage. It will excite a sigh in the Breast of an Englishman when he views this Castle, to reflect that here was confined a few years ago the Sister of his Sovereign, Matilda, the unfortunate Queen of Denmark. It is now inhabited by the Queen Dowager of Denmark who generally makes it the place of her Summer residence. The Passage of the Sound is about three miles in a direct line between the opposite shores of Sweden and Denmark. All Vessels that sail up and down the Baltic pay a toll at this place to the King of Denmark, and lower their top-sails as they pass the Castle of Cronenburg. This tribute is not so much paid from any fear of the cannon of this fortress, as from immemorial custom, and the general Law of Nations.

Having some Letters of recommendation to Mr. Fenwick the Consul's Brother, we dined with him and immediately after set out for Copenhagen where we arrived at nine that night. We experienced much inconvenience again and trouble in entering the town, undergoing a most strict search by officers both civil and military.

LETTER XXXVIII.

Copenhagen.

THE road from Elsinore for near five miles is exceedingly rough and ill-made, though the best materials are to be found within half a mile. When you come from the Sea coast, to, what is called, the King's road, it is remarkably broad and well made, but is in great want of that fine gravel which is a most excellent covering to the Swedish roads. Upon your entering the great road, the Eye seldom or never wants entertainment till you arrive at Copenhagen. The distant and nearer views are equally amusing. The country is rich, fertile, and luxuriantly embellished with villages, delightful gardens, teadrinking places, &c. Copenhagen is a handsome well built town, and notwithstanding its disadvantageous situation, which is in a flat marshy country, yet is there a magnificent appearance in most of the structures. The King's Palace especially has a distinguishing royalty which strikes the stranger's eye. Their Churches are neat and not quite so gaudily decorated as those of the Swedes. The Women are fair, well made, and not unlike the English. Not far from Copenhagen is an Island called Amak inhabited by a singular people, originally Dutch, but now living under the Danish Government. They were placed here by Elizabeth wise of Christian II. and sister of the Emperor Charles V. for the purpose of supplying her with vegetables and country fare. They wear one uniform of coarse black cloth. The habits of the women are of the same colour, with caps of uncommon form and most curiously plaited. They pay a tax to the King for that peculiarity of dress, though it is of their own manufactory. They are a most laborious, industrious and useful set of people, indefatigable in the culture of Gardens, on which they principally depend for support. They appear, and wish to be thought, poor, but from their industry have become an independent people.

The manners and customs of the Danes differ much from their neighbours, though separated only by the Sound. Denmark greatly exceeds Sweden in the cultivation of land, their breed of horses (which are of the Holstein kind) and in many other advantages which they enjoy. Yet I am told by very good authority (the Consul of Elsinore) that they are obliged to the Swedes for the greatest part of their Cattle which they privately smuggle. This is very extraordinary and could hardly be credited from the appearonce of each country. These two near neighbours, like other contiguous states, cordially hate each other. They avoid all kind of intercourse except when Interest interferes; that they pay as much attention to as any Hollander whatever. The Danes in general seem of a phlegmatic constitution and are very obstinate; a quality which we fully experienced in our posting through that country. The driver indeed is not so much to be blamed as he has the sanction of the police to travel only at the rate of five miles an hour, but a worse privilege is that of stopping where and when he pleases, so that you are totally at the mercy of an obstinate drone, whom nothing can enliven but the touch of a danish ducat. The King is now disqualified from holding the reins of Government, that power is for the most part invested in the young Prince and Council. The Prince of Denmark is much and deservedly respected by his people. He conducts himself with great affability and judgement. His chief amusements, and those in which he takes great pleasure, are military Maneuvres. Neither is Literature without a share in the Attention of this amiable Character. No small part of his own private Fortune is destined to the promotion of learning and the Encouragement of learned men. This is a singular Instance in the History of Nations; and there is great reason to hope that the beautiful appearance of this rising Sun will be succeeded by a full blaze of meridian Splendor.

The Soldiers in general are well chosen men; the Officers exceedingly polite and well bred; their uniforms resemble those of the English, which is also the case in their discipline.

LETTER XXXIX.

Copenhagen.

THE King of Denmark has seven different Palaces, but few of them affording a very royal appearance. Copenhagen is generally his place of winter residence, Fredericksburg of his summer. Since the Prince of Denmark has taken a share in the Government of this Kingdom, the Queen Dowager has not been allowed to appear at Court, except upon public days. It is said that when she complained of being obliged to reside in the Castle of Cronenburg, her Grandson replied, that there had been a time when she did not think it an improper place of residence for his Mother.

The City of Copenhagen is intersected by canals, so that merchandize can be brought to the doors of the warehouses. Commerce flourishes here exceedingly, and the Harbour, which is a good one, is generally well filled with Ships.

The reformed religion of Luther is the religion of the State. They are very punctual in the performance of all religious duties, and attend public worship with uncommon strictness and assiduity. The Churches are kept open at particular times, and a Clergyman constantly in waiting to administer the Sacrament to the sick, to give comfort to the afflicted or perform any of the other duties of his function. The Clergy preach extempore and lead very exemplary Lives. Their whole dependence and support are in the hands of Government; of course they often act with too much Servility and pay too much Submission to the court. They are held in high veneration by the common people, over whom they sometimes exercise too great an authority.

The Danes are very strict in their Police, and act with great Severity against all those who are guilty of frauds or misdemeanors. Even the tongue, that unruly member, must be guarded with great care, for they will not suffer it to be used licentiously against the State, or in any political matter. Murder and Manslaughter are punished in Denmark by decapitation. Burglaries and petty thefts are not common; and you may walk the streets at all hours of the night or day, without any molestation.

Agriculture would flourish better if it were better encouraged. The oppression, however, which the farmer meets with from the owner of his lands entirely damps the Spirit of Improvement. They succeed extremely well in the breed of Horses, which are a contrast to those of Sweden, being from sixteen to seventeen hands high.

Literature flourishes at Copenhagen. There is a very good and well endowed University, as well as an Academy of Sciences. I must not omit to mention the Observatory or round Tower which was built by the order of Christian IV. who laid the first stone himself in 1637. It was finished in 1642 and called Uraniburg, being built instead of that of the same name belonging to the celebrated Astronomer Tycho Brahe in the Isle of Hu•n, which was demolished in his reign. The top of this Tower is flat, surrounded with iron rails; the ascent to it is fifteen foot broad, and so easy that it is not exaggeration to say that a coach may go up it. The Danes called it Stelleburg, from the use for which it was intended. There is a Museum here containing many curiosities both of nature and art.

The Government of Denmark is an hereditary Monarchy. Its military Establishment about forty thousand men. The Laws of this kingdom deserve the admiration and imitation of all other States. They are contained in one volume of no great bulk, and are easily understood by the very meanest of the People. Justice here is of a very summary nature. A man's fortune can neither be diminished nor his heart broken by a tedious Law-suit. The determination of no suit, however great its importance, can be protracted beyond one year and a month. For this reason the number of Lawyers in this country is but small. There are three Courts in Denmark: the City or Town court, from whence there lies an appeal to the county, and from that to the high court in Copenhagen where the King is supposed to preside. There is one circumstance however, attending this from which a free People cannot but revolt, that is, the King, or his counsellors, can alter or explain any matter of dispute, according to his, or their, pleasure. Better therefore is it, to be subject to all the Prolixity, as well as Perplexity, of Law, than to have our Property and Persons dependent on the Nod of, perhaps, a capricious Tyrant, or interested Judges.

The Nobility, though they resigned their power to the Crown, still exercise great authority over the Peasantry, whom they keep in a state of vassalage. It were to be wished that this species of oppression might be entirely exploded in all the kingdoms of the continent as it is in our own. The Cultivators of land would then rise to a proper importance in the Scale of Subjects. Then would they feel their consequence; Agriculture would be pursued with diligence and their toil would be crowned with success.

LETTER XL.

AFTER leaving the Danish territories, which we did on the 28th. we landed at Helsingborg. Being now once more on Swedish ground and no longer subject to the tedious obstinacy of Danish post-boys, we used our utmost exertions to reach Gottenburg, which we accomplished on Saturday the 29th. which compleated our travels by land, after a Journey of three thousand seven hundred and eighty four miles, the greater part of which was over a barren unfrequented tract of country. No little reason had we to rejoice and be thankful, considering the many difficulties we had both experienced and surmounted, when we found ourselves once more placed in a land of hospitality and comfort without having had a visitation of Sickness, or any other material cause of regret.

From Saturday the 29th. of July to the 12th. of August we were wind bound at Gottenburg, during which time we experienced a repetition of civilities from our most hospitable friends there. On the 12th. of August we reembarked on board the Gottenburg-merchant Captain Fothergill, weighed anchor at nine in the morning and dropt down the river, but for want of a fair wind we were obliged to anchor above the castle. The next day the wind coming favorable we got under way, put to Sea with a fine breeze and continued our course with a fresh gale. The weather being hazy we did not fall in with the English land till Thursday morning about twelve, when we made Tynmouth castle and got into Shields about six; set off for Ravensworth where we arrived at ten that night.

Thus, my friend, I have brought you back to the point from whence we at first set out. I ought here to thank you for the patience with which you have attended to my tedious recital. If I have not added much to the stock of Information, you must not be disappointed, as you may remember, I did not promise a great deal when we set forward. With respect to myself, the Journey has answered all my Expectations. It has opened a new Scene, and given a variety to prospects, which, before, I could enjoy only in Idea.

We have beheld human nature under her rudest appearances: we have seen her in a State very different from that which appears in cities or at courts, and have been enabled to draw conclusions from the varieties of Life. Pleasure too, has not been wanting in our Excursion. Prospects pleasing and romantic, the roaring cataract and high projecting cliff, the large and beautiful lakes, the mountains stretching to the clouds, and the extensive forests, like the Shifting Scenes in a Theatre, appeared in an agreeable Succession before our Eyes. And if we have sometimes encountered dangers, and been deprived of comforts, the Lesson we have been taught by this Excursion is, always to be contented with such Enjoyments as we actually possess.

APPENDIX.

LETTER XLI.

I Made you a promise, that before I concluded my correspondence, I would send you some account of the two female Adventurers that accompanied us from Lapland. It is now my Intention to give you that Intelligence. The motives which induced Sir H. G. L. to bring them so very far from their native home are sufficiently known. His Humanity and particular Attention to them when in England, his great care that they should meet with no accident in their return, and the comparative opulence with which he sent them back to their native mountains, do credit to that heart which planned the whole Journey. Many unfair and uncharitable censures, I know, have been thrown upon these innocent Laplanders. The voice of busy rumour is not often silent upon such subjects. An easy constitutional temper, joined to good Health and good Spirits, is very apt to be mis-interpreted by the morose and censorious. That this was the only foundation for any reflections upon the Lapland Girls, I dare venture to affirm. It is therefore cruel Malevolence to attempt to depreciate Innocence from mere Suspicion.

We first met with our two female Travellers at Igsund, a small Town, the Property of Clas Grill, Knight of the order of Vasa, and chief Director of the Swedish East India Company. Their names are Sigree and Anea, and they are natives of Jockmo Lapmark. With respect to their persons, they are low in stature with broad features like the rest of their country-women. We must not, however, measure the Beauty of a Laplander by the standard of other countries. Custom, in many respects answers the purpose of a more perfect model. And there is no doubt but a Laplander or a Negro would prefer the substantial Beauties of the one or the sable charms of the other, to the Alabaster Skin or glowing tints of the most celebrated English Belle. That you may have some Idea, however, both of their Likeness, Dress and Persons, a drawing taken in England will accompany this Letter.

We had no great difficulty in persuading them to take this Journey. They seemed so satisfied that our Intentions were good, and relied so entirely upon the Promise of Sir H. G. L. that he would send them safely back again to their friends and country, that they made very little opposition to his proposals. In all probability the Poverty of these females, joined to an enterprizing Spirit, occasioned their easy acquiescence. They thought that if they returned at all, a circumstance they saw no room to doubt, they would not return in the same state of Indigence in which they then were.

It is more surprizing that their Parents should consent to their undertaking this arduous Journey. They did so, without any bribe or any other consideration than the faithful promise of our Baronet. They dropt, indeed, some natural Tears, but wiped them soon. From Igsund, they accompanied their Children a part of their Journey, then took an affectionate leave and returned home. How extraordinary was the confidence of these old People! Nothing but the Idea that their daughters would return loaden with opulence, probably could have tempted them to have parted from them. Though even this is not apparent, as they were not so mercenary as to expect to be bribed into their consent. Will it be allowed me to reason from hence, that the nearer we approach to a state of Nature, the less the human mind is subject to Suspicions? There are Philosophers that would pursue this Idea through all its windings: but as I pretend not to so exalted a Character, I shall, after having started the Game, suffer you to pursue it, according to your own pleasure.

When our Lapland female friends had determined to undertake the Journey, among other Questions, they desired to know whether there were any Churches in England. I know not what Idea they could have formed of this country. Probably they imagined that it was something like their own, and that the Inhabitants consisted, partly of Professors of the reformed Religion, and partly of Pagans or of those who profess no Religion at all. How far such an Idea would have been consistent with Truth, I shall not take upon me to determine. The Lapland Girls, however, were not without their Sentiments of religion. And before they left their own country applied to their Minister for a certificate of their fidelity to their own Church.

The female Laplanders, with three more as companions, walked on foot with the five Rein-deer near six hundred miles by land before they reached Gottenburg, where we met them and embarked altogether for England.

You will excuse me if I digress for one moment on the Subject of these Rein-deer. These Animals since their arrival in England have bred, and are likely to become very prolific. Monsieur Buffon and other Naturalists have affirmed that they will never thrive or breed in any country but Lapland. The Experiment which has been made upon this occasion will effectually confute this Idea. Few, indeed, have had the same advantages in making it as Sir Henry George Liddell, as few can have that convenience and ground for them to walk on that he has at Eslington-castle, one of his country-seats, situated in the northern part of the county of Northumberland. Upon the Estate there are several large Fir Plantations, besides very extensive Moors abounding in white Moss, a sort of food they are particularly fond of: notwithstanding, they will eat good Grass or Fog. From their present appearance there seems no doubt but that they will become very numerous, and amply repay Sir H. G. L. for his great Expence in bringing them to England.

The female Laplanders were received in this country as great curiosities and visited by all ranks of People. And probably they were as curious to see others, as others were to see them. I have before told you that they were lively and chearful; I may add also that they were graceful and unaffected. The natural habits and constitutions of these two females were truly amiable: their tempers steady and unvariable, their happy disposition pictured in their faces. Besides, they were particularly easy in their address, especially Sigree, so much so, that instead of their Lapland mountains you would have imagined their Education had been in the Drawing room. This observation has been frequently made by Lady L. whose natural Ease and Politeness give the greatest weight to her Opinion.

It is some Satisfaction, too, to reflect that during their stay in England they lost none of those natural accomplishments which they brought along with them. Though introduced to People of distinction they lost none of their Modesty and Humility; though distant from their native country, and possibly uncertain of their return, they lost none of their Liveliness.

The Time came when they were to return; and the same friend who brought them into this country was particularly anxious that they should meet with no accidents in returning. They re-embarked in the same Ship that brought them, and we know for certain that they safely reached their native land after an absence of several months. When our Lapland female Adventurers returned to their native country, we were informed by a correspondent from Sweden, that, their appearance in that Kingdom and in the City of Stockholm, was not less attended to as a novelty, than when they first arrived in England. The Curiosity of the Swedes was great, and their Interogatories many, concerning the reception they met with in England. To all these Questions they were able to give the most satisfactory answers. Their apparel, and their little stock of riches, testified the manner in which they had been treated: and they themselves expressed the most grateful regard to the hospitality of Ravensworth-castle, and the liberal favors they had received from its worthy owners.

When the King of Sweden's Brother heard of their arrival at Stockholm, he expressed a desire to see them. They were accordingly ushered into his presence. The royal Swede was very particular in enquiring into all the circumstances of their Journey. Their replies, all tended to the Honor of the English nation, and they did not scruple to inform him of their reluctance to leave that land of Hospitality,

Though the untutored minds of these Girls could never have been taught any of the sublime Virtues, or impressed with a proper Sense of Gratitude, yet from all these circumstances it is evident that they possessed it in all its purity. They lost no opportunity in England, or in Sweden, and, I doubt not, afterwards in Lapland, of gratefully acknowledging the favors of their munificent Benefactor. When they returned to their native huts, they sound themselves possessed of Wealth, much superior to their neighbours: for opulence entirely depends upon comparison. They possessed in English Coin fifty pounds, which in the currency of Sweden is equal to one thousand two hundred and fifty Dollars silver mint, or three thousand seven hundred and fifty, copper mint. Nor was this all their riches; they had besides, many bountiful Presents of Trinkets both valuable and numerous.—It is one part of the ceremony at a Lapland Wedding to adorn the Bride with a crown ornamented with a variety of gaudy trinkets, and on these Occasions the most splendid baubles are generally borrowed of their more opulent Neighbours. In this kind of Gayety and Splendor, our Travellers excel their whole country; and their English trinkets are obtained at a great price to deck out and ornament their Marriage solemnities.

Thus have I given you a general Account of our Travels, and of our Lapland fellow Travellers. You will have much to pardon, and I am afraid not much to commend. To make up for my deficiences upon this occasion, I will conclude the whole with making you this faithful Promise, that the next time I go to Lapland I will endeavour to furnish you with a better account.

FINIS.

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A tour through Sweden, Swedish-Lapland, Finland and Denmark: In a series of letters, illustrated with engravings. By Matthew Consett, Esq.

Consett, Matthew.

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http://ota.ox.ac.uk/id/4613

ID [isbn10]

1106016122

ID [isbn13]

9781106016126

ID [TCP]

K063274.000

ID [BIBNO]

CW3312541428

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0277701300

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— A tour through Sweden, Swedish-Lapland, Finland and Denmark: In a series of letters, illustrated with engravings. By Matthew Consett, Esq., Consett, Matthew.. [16],157[i.e.158]p.,plates ; 4⁰. Stockton :: printed by R. Christopher, for the author, 1789. And sold by W. Goldsmith; and T. Lewis, London,. [1789]. [Pp.143-158 are misnumbered 142-157.] [Reproduction of original from the British Library.] [English Short Title Catalog, ESTCT75355.] [Electronic data. Farmington Hills, Mich. : Thomson Gale, 2003. Page image (PNG). Digitized image of the microfilm version produced in Woodbridge, CT by Research Publications, 1982-2002 (later known as Primary Source Microfilm, an imprint of the Gale Group).]

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