A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.3]

Table of contents

- [titlepage]

- LETTER I. Containing a Description of the Counties of LINCOLN, RUTLAND, NORTHAMP TON, HUNTINGDON, and BEDFORD.

- LETTER II. CONTAINING A Description of Part of Nottingham shire, of Derbyshire, and Part of Yorkshire.

- LETTER III. CONTAINING A Description of Part of the West-riding of Yorkshire, and of all the North and East-ridings, the Bishoprick of Durham, and the County of Northum berland.

- LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Description of the Counties of Lancaster, Westmorland, and Cumberland.

- LETTER V. GIVING A brief Account of the Isles of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sarke.

- APPENDIX.

- VOL. II. p. 105.

- Vol. II. p. 161.

- [subjoinder]

- Vol. I. p. 233.

- Vol. I. p. 317.

- Vol. I. p. 216.

- Vol. I. p. 301.

- [section]

- INDEX TO THE THIRD VOLUME.

A TOUR Through the ISLAND of GREAT BRITAIN. VOL. III.

END of VOL. III.

A TOUR Thro' the Whole ISLAND of GREAT BRITAIN. Divided into CIRCUITS or JOURNEYS. GIVING A Particular and Entertaining ACCOUNT of whatever is Curious, and worth Observation; VIZ.

- I. A DESCRIPTION of the Principal Cities and Towns, their Situation, Government, and Commerce.

- II. The Customs, Manners, Exercises, Diversions, and Imployment of the People.

- III. The Produce and Improvement of the Lands, the Trade, and Manufactures.

- IV. The Sea Ports and Fortifications, the Course of Rivers, and the Inland Navigation.

- V. The Publick Edifices, Seats, and Palaces of the NOBILITY and GENTRY.

- VI. The Isles of Wight, Portland, Jersey, Guernsey, and the other English and Scotish Isles of most Note.

Interspersed with Useful OBSERVATIONS. Particularly fitted for the Perusal of such as desire to Travel over the ISLAND.

By a GENTLEMAN.

The THIRD EDITION. With very great Additions, Improvements, and Corrections; which bring it down to the Year 1742. And a Copious INDEX to each Volume.

VOL. III.

LONDON: Printed for J. OSBORN, S. BIRT, D. BROWNE, J. HODGES, A. MILLAR, J. WHISTON, and J. ROBINSON. M.DCC.XLII.

LETTER I. Containing a Description of the Counties of LINCOLN, RUTLAND, NORTHAMPTON, HUNTINGDON, and BEDFORD.

SIR,

FROM Newark, still keeping the Fossway, which lies as strait as a Line can mark it out, we went on to Lincoln, having a View of the great Church call'd the Minster all the Way before us, the River Trent on the Left, and the Downs call'd Lincoln-Heath on the Right.

Lincoln is an antient City, govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It is so full of the Ruins of Monasteries, and Religious Houses, that the very Barns, Stables, Out-houses, and, as they shew'd me, some of the very Hog-styes, are built Church-fashion; that is to say, with Stone-Walls, and arch'd Windows and Doors. Here are 13 Churches, but the meanest to look on that are any-where to be seen. The Cathedral indeed, and the Ruins of the old Castle, are very venerable Pieces of Antiquity.

Lincoln was a Colony of the Romans, and by them nam'd Lindum Colonia, which very easily falls into the present abbreviated Appellation, Lincoln. From its bold and noble Situation upon an high Hill, it seems a Collection of Five Cities. For, first, below the Hill, and Westward of the City, the River throws itself into a great Pool called Swan-pool, from the Multitude of Swans upon it. All around this Place the Ground is moory, and full of Bogs and Islets; and the Place is called now Carham, i. e. a Dwelling upon the Car, or Fen. Here was the British City in the most early Times, which they used as a Fastness for themselves and Cattle in Times of deep Distress. From this Carham is a pleasant View of the West-Front of the Cathedral.

2. The Romans, pleas'd with this Eminence, placed their City upon it, which they first built in the Form of a large Square, the Southern Wall being sufficiently secur'd by the Precipice. Quite round the other Three Sides they carried a deep Trench, which still remains, except on the Southeast Angle. This City was divided into Four equal Parts by Two cross Streets. The Two Southern Quarters were taken up, one by the Castle, the other by the Church which Remigius built. But when Bishop Alexander projected a Structure of much larger Dimensions, the Inclosure was carried beyond the Eastern Bounds of the City, and a new Wall built farther that way, as at present, with Battlements and Towers. The North Roman Gate of this Part of the City still remains intire, call'd Newport Gate, and the noblest Remnant of this Sort in Britain. It is a vast Semicircle of Stones laid together without Morter, and cemented only by their wedgelike Shape. This magnificent Arch is 16 Feet Diameter, the Stones Four Feet thick at Bottom. From this Gate Eastward some Part of the old Roman Wall is to be seen, made of Stone, and very strong Mortar. The West Gate towards the Gallows was pulled down within Memory. That on the South Side still shews one Jamb from between the Houses, and two or three Stones of the same Make as the former: the rest has been pull'd down by Mr. Houghton. On the East Side one Postern is visible, and big enough for a Bed to stand in. By Newport Gate is another large and curious Piece of Roman Workmanship, call'd the Mint-wall. This is still 16 Feet high, and above 40 Feet long, composed of Brick and Stone, laid alternately.

3. The Romans, finding this City well situated for Navigation, added another to it as big as the former. This they did Southward upon the Declivity of the Hill, and so made it parallel with the other; and the most Southern Side lay upon the River. Eastward, the Ditch without is turn'd into a broad Street call'd The Beast-Market, and there below Claskgate a great Part of the old Roman Wall is left, made of Stone. One Piece of it is now 80 Feet long, and 18 high. A little of it lower down is 12 Feet long, and as much high. Between that Gate upwards, and the old City-wall, by the Greestone-stairs, the old Ditch call'd Weredyke, is to be seen. To the West the Ditch and Foundation of the Wall are still lost tho' many times repaired and demolished in the frequent Sieges this Town has sustain'd, especially in the Wars of the Empress Maud. At the Bottom of it, towards the Water, is a round Tower, named Lucy-tower, much known in her History.

4. Another great Addition to the Length of this City, Northward above the Hill, was call'd Newport, or the new City, 500 Paces long. This probably was done in the Time of the Saxon Kings. It lies on both Sides the Hermen-street, and was fenc'd with a Wall and Ditch hewn out of the Rock. At the Two farther Corners were round Towers, and a Gate, the Foundations of which remain. There were several Churches, and religious Houses, in this Place. It was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in great Numbers, and grown rich by Trade. There is a Well still nam'd Grantham's-well, from a Child they impiously crucified, as was said, and threw it into that Place.

5. After the Norman Conquest, when a great Part of the first City was turn'd into a Castle, by King William I. it is probable they added the last Intake Southward in the Angle of the Witham, and made a new Cut call'd Sinsil-dyke on the South and East Side for its Security. It is observable, that the Normans could not well pronounce Lincoln, but vitiated it to Nichol, as we find it written in some old Authors: and to this Day a Part of the Swan-pool is call'd Nichol-pool.

Tho' since those Times the City has much declin'd, of late it seems to revive, and Trade and Manufactures to flourish.

In this last Part of Lincoln, on both Sides the Roman Road, were many of that People's funeral Monuments; some of which they now dig up. There is an Inscription of that Sort behind the House where the Lord Hussey was beheaded for Rebellion in the Time of King Henry VIII. The great Bow-window, thro' which he pass'd to the Scaffold, was lately taken down. It stands over-against another Stone Building, of an antique Model, which was the Palace of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, who lived here in Royal State, and had the Privilege of Coining. His Arms are here carv'd in Stone. Over-against the Castle, Westward, is an Entrenchment made by King Stephen.

The Situation of the City, from what I have said, must appear very particular; one Part is on the flat, and in a Bottom, so that the Witham, a little River, that runs through the Town, flows sometimes into the Street: the other Part lies upon the Top of a high Hill, where the Cathedral stands; and the very steepest Part of the Ascent of the Hill, is the best Part of the City for Trade and Business.

Nothing is more troublesome than the Communication of the upper and lower Town; the Street is so steep and so strait, that the Coaches and Horses are oblig'd to fetch a Compass another Way, as well on one Hand as on the other.

The River Witham is arch'd over, so that you see nothing of it as you go through the main Street; but it makes a large Lake on the West Side, and has a Canal, called the Poss-dike, by which it has a Communication with the Trent, whereby the Navigation of that River is made useful for Trade to the City. This River must have run into the Humber, had it not been broken off in the Middle by that great Valley under Lincoln, and turned into the Salt-marshes. Hence it is that the Stone upon this Western Cliff is full of Sea-shells. For the Shell-fish, when by the restless Motion of the Waters in the universal Delage, they were carried into the midland Places, were hinder'd by the Weight of their Shells from regaining their original Stations; and thus were confin'd within the growing Stone. As a Testimony of which the Skeleton of a Crocodile, or some such Animal, inclosed in a broad flat Stone, was sent to the Royal Society from these Parts, by Dr. Stukeley, from whom we borrow this Observation.

There are very good Buildings in the upper City, and several Families of Gentlemen have Houses there, besides those of the Prebendaries and other Clergy belonging to the Cathedral.

The Cathedral is a magnificent Fabrick, and is reputed the largest in Extent of any Cathedral in England, except York. But there are in it many obvious Blemishes, which I shall particularly take Notice of, in comparing it hereafter with York Minster. The Situation is infinitely to its Advantage, as it stands upon a high Hill, and is seen into five or six Counties. It has a double Cross or Transept. The West End receives a great Addition to its Breadth, by reason of Two Chapels on each Side of the Side-Ayles; but the Two Towers and Spires are very mean, tho' not for want of Height.

This Cathedral has many Bells; and particularly the Northern Tower is filled up, as one may say, with the finest great Bell in England, which is called Tom of Lincoln, being probably consecrated to Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury.—As loud as Tom of Lincoln is a Proverb. It weighs 4 Tons, 1894 Pounds, and will hold 424 Gallons Ale-measure; the Circumference is 22 Feet 8 Inches.

The Middle or Rood Tower is the highest in the whole Kingdom, and when the Spire was standing on it, it must, in Proportion to the Height of the Tower, have exceeded that of old St. Paul's, which was 520 Feet. The Monks were so proud of this Structure, that they would have it, that the Devil looked upon it with an envious Eye; whence the Proverb of a Man who looks invidious and malignant, He looks as the Devil over Lincoln. At present there are only four very ordinary Pinacles, one at each Corner. It has Two great Gate-houses or Entrances from the West. The lower Part of the Fr••t, and of the Two Towers, are of Remigius's Building, as is easily discoverable by the Colour of the Stones, and by the Manner of Architecture: but Alexander built the Additions upon it, as likewise the Body of the Cathedral, the Choir, and St. Mary's Tower, which once had a very lofty Spire. St. Hugh the Burgundian built the East End, or St. Mary's Chapel, (where he had a Shrine) and the Chapterhouse, which is ceil'd with a beautiful Stone Roof, and one Pillar in the Middle.

The Cloisters and the Library are fine; and the latter is well furnished with printed Books and Manuscripts.

Two Catharine-wheel Windows, as they are term'd, at the Ends of the larger Transepts, are remarkably fine for Bullion-work, and painted Glass.

Here are great Numbers of antique Brasses and Monuments.

South of the Church, upon the very Brow of the Hill, is the Bishop's Palace, built by Robert de Chesney, who gave Two great Bells. Bishop Bek, and other Successors, improv'd it into a Magnificence equal to the Cathedral. It stands just South of the Roman Wall. It had many large Bow-windows of curious Workmanship, looking over the lower City into Nottinghamshire. The Kitchen had Seven Chimneys. The Hall was stately. The Gatehouse remains intire with the A•••… of the Founders. This Palace was ruined in the Time of the Civil Wars; but might be rebuilt with no very great Expence. As the Church is very large, so is the Revenue of the Bishoprick, which was formerly immensely great, as may be seen by the Monasticon, where is an astonishing Account of the Wealth of the Place.

The Church, as it is the Seat of the Bishoprick, is not so antient as some others; the See being remov'd, since the Norman Conquest, from Dorchester, a little Town in Oxfordshire, on the River Thames, not far from Tame, of which I have spoken in its Place; but the City is truly antient, and the Ruins of it tell us as much.

Mr. Camden says, King Vortimer, the valiant Briton, dy'd here, and was buried in the Church of the great Monastery.

It is certain, as I have observ'd, that William the Conqueror built the Castle, to curb the potent Citizens; and the Ruins shew, that it was a most magnificent Work, well fortify'd, and capable of receiving a numerous Garison.

The Bishoprick of Lincoln at that Time contain'd all that now is compris'd in the Dioceses of Ely, Peterborough, and Oxford, besides what is now its own; and 'tis still the largest Diocese in England; containing the several Counties of Lincoln, Leicester, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, and Part of Hertford; and in them 1255 Parishes, whereof 577 are Impropriations; and there are in these Bounds six Archdeacons, viz. Lincoln, Leicester, Bedford, Buckingham, Stow, and Huntingdon.

Here was the famous Battle fought between the Friends of the Empress Maud, Mother to King Henry II. and King Stephen, in which that magnanimous Prince was overthrown and taken Prisoner.

Lincoln stands in a most rich, pleasant, and agreeable Country; for on the North, and South-east, the noble Plain call'd Lincoln Heath, extends itself, like the Plain about Salisbury, for above 50 Miles; viz. from Sleeford and Ancaster South, to the Bank of the Humber North, tho' not with a Breadth equal to the Length; for the Plain is hardly anywhere above Three or Four Miles broad.

On the West Side of this Plain, the Trent Waters make a pleasant and rich Valley, running from New-ark to Gainsburgh, thence to Burton, and so into the Humber.

Gainsburgh hath a large and fine Market, and is very flourishing for Trade and Business, which hath increased of late Years to the Detriment of Boston and Hull.

The Body of the Parish-church of this Place had been under a general Decay, and the Walls, Arches, and Pillars, so shaken and declin'd from their proper Position, that it was judged incapable of Repair. An Act of Parliament therefore passed in 1735, for pulling down and rebuilding it. It is famous for the Danes having landed here, when they came up the Trent.

Passing the Trent by a Ferry, you land in the Isle of Axholm, which is environ'd by the Trent and the Dun. Littleborough is the Agelocum or Segelocum of the Romans, a small Village Three Miles above Gainsburgh, just upon the Edge of the Water, and in a Nook. It seems only to have been environ'd with a Ditch, and was of a square Form. The Water ran quite round it; for to the West, where White's-bridge is, a watry Valley hems it in; so that it was sufficiently strong. The Church stands upon the highest Ground. The Trent has wash'd away Part of the Eastern Side of the Town. Foundations and Pavements are visible in the Bank. Here, an Urn, with the Coin of Domitian, was found; and great Numbers of Coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging, which they call Swine-pennies, because those Creatures sometimes rout them up, and the Inhabitants take little Care to preserve them. Mr. Ella, Vicar of Rampton hard by, has collected several, and some valuable.

In 1718. Two Altars, handsomely moulded, of coarse Grit-stone, were dug up, which are set as Piers in a Wall on the Side of the Steps, which lead from the River to the Inn. Many very small Coins, like flatted Peas, call'd Mites, are also found. Mr. Hardy has a large Urn, with a Female Face on the Outside.

In this Field, near White's-bridge, are great Foundations of Buildings. Coins are often found at the lowest Edge of the Water, when the Tide is gone off, and in dry Seasons. On the East Side of the River has been a Camp.

By Tilbridge-lane, upon the Top of the Heath, is a Spring, which, according to the vulgar Report, flows and ebbs with the Trent, tho' at Five Miles Distance. The like is said of several others hereabout.

Ten Miles from Lincoln Northward is Spittle, all the Way to which Place are Milliary Stones. 'Tis very pleasant Riding, being wholly Champaign or Heath. Of these Stones, I believe, some are Roman, others later Crosses to supply their Place. This was, no doubt, a Mansion, because hard by a little Beck runs thro' it. Here is an Hospital, said to be founded in the Year 1308. There are great Foundations all around, some of which perhaps are Roman. At present the Village consists of Two Farm-houses, a Chapel, an Inn, and a Sessions-house. Upon the latter, is this Inscription:

Haecce domus dat, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,

Aequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos. 1620.

That is,

This Court does Right, loves Peace, preserves the Laws,

Detects the wrong, rewards the righteous Cause.

To the Left is Normanby, where the last but one Duke of Bucks was born, and whence he assum'd his Title of Marquis.

Half a Mile East of the present Wintringham, stood the old Roman Town, now a Common, bounded by the Marshes upon the Humber. The City was plough'd up of late Years, and many Antiquities found.

The present Wintringham is a dirty poor Place, but still a Corporation, and the Mayor is chosen only out of one Street next the old Town, where was a Chapel. The Bell of it now hangs in a wooden Frame by the Pillory. Here is a vast Jawbone or Rib of a Whale, which has remain'd Time out of Mind.

As the Middle of the Country is all hilly, and the West Side low, so the East Side is the richest, most fruitful, and best cultivated, of any County in England, so far from London. One Part is all Fen or Marsh Grounds, and extends itself South to the Isle of Ely. And here it is that so vast a Quantity of Sheep are fed, as makes this County and that of Leicester an inexhaustible Fountain of Wool for all the manufacturing Counties in England, as before observ'd.

There are some good Towns on the Sea-coast, but I include not Barton, which stands on the Humber, as one of them, being a straggling mean Town, noted for nothing but an ill-favoured dangerous Passage, or Ferry, over the Humber to Hull; where, in an open Boat, in which we had about 15 Horses, and 10 or 12 Cows, mingled with about 17 or 18 Passengers, we were about 4 Hours toss'd about on the Humber, before we could get into the Harbour at Hull.

Well may the Humber take its Name from the Noise it makes; for in a high Wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the Crash and Dashing together of Ships.

Passing over Whitton Brook, a Roman Road goes directly to Aukborough, by that People call'd Aquis. Their Camp is now call'd Countess-close, from a Countess of Warwick, who, they say, liv'd there, at least own'd the Estate. The Roman Castle is square, 300 Feet each Side, very conveniently plac'd in the North-west Angle of Lincolnshire, as a Watchtower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire. The Church is of good Stone, and has a square Tower; but the Choir is ruinous, and separated from the rest of the Church by a wooden Partition. Here are numerous Reliques of the Deluge, as Sea-shells, subterraneous Trees, &c.

In a square Plot, call'd The Green, is a round Labyrinth nam'd Julian's Bower, probably from the warlike Games in Use among the Roman and British Youth, call'd Ludi Trojani, and said by Virgil to be first introduc'd into Italy by Iulus the Son of Aeneas. And the Boys, to this Day, divert themselves with running in it one after another, and eluding their Play-fellows by their intricate Mazes. It seems that our Tournaments, so much in Fashion till Queen Elizabeth's Time, are Remainders of these antient Diversions.

Burton makes a pretty Prospect, has several Mills, and the Houses are pleasantly intermix'd with Trees. There are also Two Churches, one of which is so low in respect of the Precipice under which it stands, that a Person may almost leap from thence upon the Steeple.

At Barrow is a British Temple, vulgarly call'd a Castle.

A little Eastward hence is Thornton College, a great Abbey founded by William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, in the Year 1139. The Gatehouse is very perfect, being a vast Tower or Castle of great Strength both for Offence and Defence. Before it is a large Ditch, across which is laid a Bridge with Walls on each Hand, and Arches which support a broad Battlement to keep off the Enemy. Before it are Two round Towers. There was a Portcullis at the great Gate, and behind it another Gate of Oak. Over the Gate are Three old clumsy Statues in the ordinary Niches; a Woman seeming a Queen, or the Virgin Mary; to the Right a Man with a Lamb, probably St. John Baptist; and to the Left a Bishop, or Abbat, with a Crosier. Upon taking down an old Wall, they found a Man with a Candlestick, Table, and Book, who was supposed to have been immur'd. The whole Monastery was encompassed by a deep Ditch, and high Rampart, to secure the Religious from Robbers because near the Sea.

A Mile East of Thornton are the Ruins of another great Castle call'd Kelingholme.

In Goswel Parish Northward, is Burham, once a Chapel, which belong'd to the Monastery, now a Farm-house.

In the same Parish near the Humber is Vere-court, which belong'd to the antient Family of that Name.

The Land hereabout is good and well-wooded, and many Roman Coins are found.

Two Miles West of Thornton are the Ruins of a great Roman Camp, call'd Yarborough, which surveys the whole Hundred denominated from it. Mr. Howson of Kenington, which is hard by, has Pecks of Roman Coins found here.

Grimsby lies also on the Humber, but lower down towards the Ocean. It is a Mayor-town and Seaport. But its Harbour is not very safe for Ships to ride in, as appeared at the Time of the great Storm in 1703. when all the Ships in that Road were driven from their Anchors, and most of them lost. Here is a very large sumptuous Church.

We took the Round of the Sea-coast from hence Southward, all the Way to Boston, and pass'd thro' Saltfleet, Burgh, and Wainfleet, besides several Villages lying on the Sea-side. The Two first are but inconsiderable Market-towns, but Wainfleet is a well-compacted Town and neat, tho' situated in the Fens. 'Tis noted for a fine Free-school, and giving an Addition to the Name of the Founder of it, who was call'd William of Wainfleet, afterwards Bishop of Winchester, and who founded also Winchester College.

The River Witham crosses the County from Lincoln to Boston, where it disembogues: at the Source of it is a little River of the same Name.

Between this River and the Sea-coast North-east, the several inland Towns of Bolinbroke, famous for giving Birth and Title to King Henry IV. also Title to Mr. Secretary St. John, one of the greatest Genius's of the Age, tho' unhappy in some of his Politics; Spilsby, Horncastle, and Tattersal, on the South. About the Middle of this Division made by the Witham, lie Stanton, Market-rasen, Louth, and Binbroke; and higher up Northward, stand Kirton, Glandsord, Brigs and Caster.

Spilsby is a pretty good Town, and has a well-frequented Market.

Horncastle is almost surrounded with Water, and is a large well-built Town. But the rest are inconsiderable except Louth and Caster; the first has Two weekly considerable Markets, and is famous for a fine Spire Steeple, as high as that of Grantham.

Caster is the ancient Durobrivis, tho' Dornford retains somewhat of the old Name, where the Hermen-street cross'd the River by a Bridge of Brass, according to the Vulgar. At Chesterton is a large Tract of Ground, call'd The Castle-field, with a Ditch and Rampart around it. The Roman Road runs directly thro' it, and still retains its high Ridge. Beyond the River it extends for some Space upon the Meadow along the Bank; then forms an Angle, and proceeds full North. Caster is above half a Mile from it, upon the Hill. A Part of the Foundation of the Wall of the old Roman Camp is visible in the Street to the North-west Corner of the Church, under the Wall of the House, where the Minister lives. It may be known by the great Strength of the Morter, built of the white Slab-stone of the Country. Underneath this lay the City; for below the Churchyard the Ground is full of Foundations and Mosaics.

In the Boot Alehouse Cellar is a Piece of a Pavement; as are many at Mr. Wright's, and in a Garden an intire one; besides great Numbers of Roman Coins, in the Possession of Mons. Baillardeau. In the plough'd Fields between the Town and the River, toward Fordgreen, is a Tract which runs quite thro', whereon Corn grows very scantily. This is nothing but a Road laid with a deep Bed of Gravel, tho' the superstitious Country-people believe it was cursed by the Lady Kyneburg, the Abbess who built a religious House, which stood Eastward of the Church, and some Part of which still remains. This Meadow is call'd Norman-gate (or more properly, Dorman-gate) Field, from the Town, whose Foundations are found all about this Place; and also innumerable Coins, call'd Dorman-pence. Part of this is Berrystead, where Antiquities are daily dug up. Mill-field stands higher toward Peterborough, where Mosaic Pavements, &c. are found, and seems to have been a little Citadel belonging to the Town.

Part of the Church is an antique Building, but new-modell'd. Upon a Stone over the Choir-door is a curious Inscription, importing that the Church was consecrated on the 17th of April 1114. The Steeple stands in the Middle of the Church. The Tower is a fine Piece of antient Architecture with semicircular Arches. The square Well by the Porch is Roman, surrounded with hewn Stone; and tho' it stands on a Hill, the Water is very high. At the East-end of the Church is a very old Cross.

A little higher up the River, near Wansford Bridge, a Gold British Coin was found, which is in the Possession of Mr. Maurice Johnson, an eminent Counsellor.

The Fen Country begins about Wainfleet, which is within Twenty Miles of Grimsby, and extends itself to the Isle of Ely South, and to the Grounds opposite to Lynn-regis in Norfolk East.

This Part is indeed very properly called Holland; for 'tis a flat, level, and often drowned Country, like the Province of the same Name in the Low Countries; insomuch that the very Ditches are navigable, and the People pass from Town to Town in Boats, as they do there. Here we had the uncouth Musick of the Bittern, a Bird formerly counted ominous and presaging, and which, as some say, thrusts its Bill into a Reed, and others into a Bog, and then gives the dull, heavy Groan or Sound, like a Sigh; which is so loud, that 'tis heard Two or Three Miles Distance as some People say.

Here we first saw Boston, and making towards it, found it a Sea-port Town, at the Mouth of the Witham.

The Tower is the highest and noblest in Europe, being 100 Yards, and is seen plainly 40 Miles round this level Country, and farther by Sea. The Octagon Lantern on the Top is very beautiful, and admirable for the Thinness of the Stone-work. Mariners find it particularly useful to guide them into this Port, and even into the Mouth of the River Ouse; for in clear Weather 'tis seen quite out at Sea to the Entrance of those Chanels, which they call Lynn Deeps, and Boston Deeps, which are as difficult Places as most upon the Eastern Shore of Britain. This is particularly taken Notice of in an Act passed in the Reign of the late Queen Anne, for enabling Assessments to be made for Repairing and keeping in Repair this Church: in the Preamble to which it is described, as it deserves, as an antient, well-built Fabrick; that the Tower thereof is very high, and an useful Sea-mark; and that it being situate near the Haven, a great Sum is necessary yearly to be raised, to preserve it from a violent, constantly ebbing and flowing Water.

There was a prodigious Clock-Bell which could be heard Six or Seven Miles round; it had many old Verses round it, but Anno 1710. was knocked in Pieces, and the Inscription not taken.

Twenty Yards from the Foundation of this Tower runs the rapid Witham, thro' a wooden Bridge.

This Town abounded with religious Houses, whose Lands King Henry VIII. gave to the Town.

Queen Mary I. was a great Benefactress likewise to it, and gave them Lands called Erection Lands, to pay a Vicar, Lecturer, and Two Schoolmasters.

The Church is reckon'd the largest Parish-church without cross Ayles, in the Universe; 'tis 100 Feet wide, and 300 long within the Walls. The Roof is handsomely ceiled with Irish Oak, supported by 24 tall and slender Pillars.

Formerly the Town laboured under the Want of fresh Water, which was a great Discouragement to Merchants and others settling there. To remedy which Inconvenience, John Smyth of Heath, in the County of York, Esq procur'd an Act of Parliament which passed in the Reign of Queen Anne, to inclose Two Acres of the great Common, called The West Fen, for a Pond or Cistern, and to erect a Water-house and Mill upon the said Common, and other proper Edifices, and to lay Pipes from the Pond for supplying the Town.

The Town is large, populous, and well-built, full of Merchants, and has a good Share of foreign Trade, as well as Lynn. 'Tis built on both Sides of the River Witham. It is a Corporation, governed by a Mayor, and 12 Aldermen. It has two Markets weekly, and a commodious Haven. Here is held one of those annual Fairs, which preserve the antient Title of a Mart, whereof I remember only Four in England of any considerable Note, viz. Lynn, Gainsburgh, Beverly, and Boston. Its Trade of late Years has not increased.

East of Boston was a Chapel called Hiptoft, and in the Town a Church dedicated to St. John, but both demolish'd. Queen Elizabeth gave the Corporation a Court of Admiralty over all the Sea-coasts hereabouts.

The Country round this Place is all Fen and Marsh Grounds, the Land is very rich, and feeds prodigious Numbers of large Sheep, and also Oxen of the largest Size, the best of which are driven to London Market; and from this Part, as also from the Downs or Heath above-mentioned, comes, as I have before noted, a great Part of the Wool, known, as a creditable Distinction, because of its Fineness, by the Name of Lincolnshire Wool; which is sent in great Quantities into Norfolk and Suffolk, for the Manufacturers of those Countries, and indeed to several other of the trading Counties in England.

These Fens are very considerable for their Extent; for they reach in Length, in some Places, 50 Miles, and in Breadth above 30: and as they are so level, that there is no Interruption to the Sight, any Building of extraordinary Height is seen a long Way. For Example, Boston Steeple is seen upon Lincoln Heath, near 30 Miles; Peterborough and Ely Minsters are seen almost thoughout the whole Level; so are the Spires of Lynn, Whittlesea, and Crowland, seen at a very great Distance, which adds some Beauty to the Country.

From Boston we came on thro' the Fen Country to Holbech, a little Market-town, and so on to Spalding, which is another Sea-port in the Level, but standing far within the Land on the River Welland, which almost incloses it. Here was nothing very remarkable to be seen as to Antiquity, but the Ruins of an old Monastery, of which the Monasticon gives a particular Description. There is a Bridge over the Welland, and Vessels of about 50 or 60 Tons may come up to the Town; and that is sufficient for the Trade of Spalding, which is chiefly in Corn and Coal.

We must not pass by Crowland, another Place of great religious Antiquity, here being once a famous Monastery, the Remains of which are still to be seen. The Monks of Crowland were eminent in History, and a great many Stories are told of the Devils of Crowland also, and what Conversation they had with the Monks, which Tales are more out of Date now, than they were formerly.

The Abbey was founded 1000 Years ago by Athelbald King of Mercia, in the midst of Bogs and Thorns, in Honour of his Chaplain Guthlac, who chose this Place to mortify in. The Foundation is laid on Piles of Wood, several of which have been found in tearing up the Ruins of the Eastern Part of the Church; for what remains is only Part of the Westend, and of that only one Corner in tolerable Repair, which is at present their Parish-church. In the Middle of the Cross stood once a lofty Tower, and in it was a remarkably fine Ring of Bells; the first, as is said in the County. The Roof, which was of Irish Oak finely carv'd and gilt, fell down about 40 Years ago, and Pieces of it are to be found in almost every House. People at Pleasure dig up the monumental Stones for private Use, and what are left in the Pavement are cover'd over with Shrubs. It was made a Garison in the late Civil Wars, and the Soldiers destroy'd the painted Glass in it. All the Eastern Part of the Body of the Church is intirely raz'd to the Foundation. The monastick Buildings, Cloisters, Hall, Abbat's Lodgings, are absolutely demolish'd. In the North-west Corner of the Church stands a strong Tower, with a very obtuse Spire, and a pleasant Ring of small Bells. Over the West Gate are the Images of divers Kings, Abbats, &c. among the rest, Guthlac with a Whip and Knife, his usual Symbols.

Not far from the Abbey, is the Remnant of a little Stone Cottage, called Anchor-church-house, where was a Chapel, in which St. Guthlac was bury'd, and where he lived a Hermit.

Over-against the West-end of the Abbey, is the famous triangular Bridge, hardly to be equalled in Britain, if in Europe. It being too steep for Horses and Carriages to go over, they pass under it. 'Tis formed on Three Segments of a Circle meeting in one Point; and each Base, they say, stands in a different County. Here meet the Rivers Nyne and Welland. So that the Bridge, being fixed at the very Point where they join, stands upon a Centre in the Middle of the united Waters; and then parting into Two Bridges, lands you one to the Right on Thorney, and one to the Left upon Holland. On one Side fits an Image of King Athelbald, Founder of Crowland-Abbey, with a Globe in his Hand.

The Town of Spalding is not large, but pretty well built and well inhabited, and is a handsome and large Market-town; but for the Healthiness or Pleasantness of it, I have no more to say, than that I was very glad when I got out of it, as well as out of the rest of the Fen Country; for 'tis a horrid Air for a Stranger to breathe in.

The History of the Draining these Fens, by a Set of Gentlemen, called the Adventurers; the several Laws for securing and preserving the Banks, and dividing the Lands; how they were by the extraordinary Conflux of Waters from all the Inland Counties of England frequently overflowed, and sometimes lay under Water most Part of the Year; how all the Waters in this Part of England, which do not run into the Thames, the Trent, or the Severn, fall together into these low Grounds, and empty themselves into the Sea by those Drains, as thro' a Sink; and how by the Skill of these Adventurers, and at a prodigious Expence, they have cut new Chanels, and even whole Rivers, with particular Drains from one River to another, to carry off the great Flux of Waters, when Floods or Freshes come down either on one Side or on the other; and how, notwithstanding all that Hands could do, or Art contrive, yet sometimes the Waters do still prevail, the Banks break, and whole Levels are overflowed together; All this, and much more that might be said on so copious a Subject, tho' it would be very useful to have it fully and geographically describ'd, yet it would take up so much Room, that I cannot think of entering any farther into it, than just to mention, That an Act of Parliament lately passed to enable the Adventurers, Owners, and Proprietors of the taxable Lands, and the Owners and Proprietors of the free Lands in Deeping Fen, Pinchbeck, and Spalding South Fen, Therlby Fen, Bourn South Fen, and Croyland Fen, &c. in the County of Lincoln, containing in the Whole about 30,000 Acres, to raise a competent Sum for the effectual Draining and future Preservation of all the said Fens, according to their Agreement in that behalf, dated Febr. 23.1737, and to carry the said Agreement into Execution.

We shall only observe further, that Sir John Heathcote, Bart. hath made so good a Progress in draining 366 Acres of the Therlby Fen Pastures, belonging to him, that he is particularly exempted from paying toward the Sums levied upon others by this Act.

These Fens of Lincolnshire are of the same Kind with, and contiguous to, those already mentioned in the Isle of Ely, in the Counties of Cambridge and Huntingdon; and here, as well as there, we see prodigious Numbers of Cattle, which are fed up to an extraordinary Size by the Richness of the Soil.

Here are also an infinite Number of Wild-Fowl, such as Duck and Mallard, Teal and Wigeon, Brand-Geese, Wild-Geese, &c. For the taking of the four first Kinds, here are a great many Decoys, from all which the vast Number of Fowls they take, are sent up to London.

The Accounts which the Country People give of the Numbers they sometimes take, are such, that one scarce dares report it from them. But this I can say, of my certain Knowlege, that some of these Decoys are of so great an Extent, and take such great Numbers of Fowl, that they are let from 100l. to 3, 4, and 500l. a Year Rent.

The Art of taking the Fowls, and especiaally of Breeding up a Set of Creatures, called Decoy-Ducks, to intice and then betray their Fellow-Ducks into the several Decoys, is very ingenious; and tho' 'tis not very easy to describe it, I will give it in as few Words as I can.

The Decoy-Ducks are hatched and bred up in the Decoy Ponds; in which are certain Places where they are constantly fed, and being made tame, they are used to come to the Decoy-Man's Hand for their Food.

When they fly abroad, it is not known whither they go, but some conjecture they fly quite over into Holland and Germany; where they meet with others of their own Kind, and sorting with them, they, by some Art, unknown to us, draw together a vast Number of the Fowls, and, in a Word, kidnap them from their own Country; for being once brought out of their Knowlege, they follow the Decoys, as a Dog follows the Sportsman; and 'tis frequent to see these subtle Creatures return with a vast Flight of Fowls along with them, after they have been absent several Weeks together.

When they have brought them over, the first Thing they do is to settle with them in the Ponds, to which the Decoy-Ducks belong. Here they chatter and gabble to them in their own Language, as if they were telling them, that here they should soon see how well they should live.

When the Decoy-Men perceive they are come, and that they are gathering and increasing, they go secretly to the Pond's Side, under the Cover which they have made with Reeds, so that they cannot be seen, where they throw over the Reeds Handfuls of Corn, in such shallow Places, as the Decoy-Ducks are usually fed, and whither they are sure to come for it, and to bring their new Guests with them for their Entertainment.

This they do for two or three Days together, and no Harm follows to the poor Strangers, till throwing in this Bait one time in an open wide Place, another time in another wide Place, the third time it is thrown in a narrower Place; where the Trees, which hang over the Water and the Banks, stand closer together; and then in another yet narrower, where the said Trees are over-head like an Arbour, tho' at a good Height from the Water.

Here the Boughs are so artfully managed, that a large Net is spread near the Tops of the Trees among the Branches, and fastened to Hoops which reach from Side to Side. This is so high, and so wide, and the Room is so much below, and the Water so open, that the Fowls do not perceive the Net above them.

Here the Decoy-Man keeping unseen, behind the Hedges of Reeds, which are made perfectly close, goes forward, throwing Corn over the Reeds into the Water. The Decoy-Ducks greedily fall upon it, and, calling their foreign Guests, seem to tell them, that now they may find, how well the Ducks live in England; so inviting, or rather wheedling them forward, 'till by degrees they are all gotten under the Arch or Sweep of the Net, which is on the Trees, and which by degrees, imperceptibly to them, declines lower and lower, and also narrower and narrower, till at the farther End it comes to a Point like a Purse; though this farther End is quite out of Sight, and perhaps two or three hundred Yards from the first Entrance.

When the whole Flight of Ducks are thus greedily following the Decoys, and feeding plentifully as they go; and the Decoy-Man sees they are all so far within the Arch of the Net, as not to be able to escape, on a sudden a Dog, which till then keeps close by him, and which is perfectly taught his Business, rushes from behind the Reeds, and jumps into the Water, swimming directly after the Ducks, and barks as he swims.

Immediately the frighted Ducks rise upon the Wing to make their Escape; but are beaten down again by the arched Net, which is over their Heads. Being then forced into the Water, they necessarily swim forward, for fear of the Dog; and thus they croud on, 'till by Degrees the Net growing lower and narrower, they are hurried to the very farther End, where another Decoy-Man stands ready to receive them, and who takes them out alive with his Hands.

As for the Traitors, that drew the poor Ducks into this Snare, they are taught to rise but a little Way, and so not reaching to the Net, they fly back to the Ponds, and make their Escape; or else, being used to the Decoy-Man, they go to him fearless, and are taken out as the rest; but instead of being killed with them, are strok'd, made much of, and put into a little Pond just by him, and plentifully fed for their Services.

There are many Particulars in the managing and draining these Levels, throwing off the Water by Mills and Engines, and cultivating the Grounds in an unusual manner, which would be very useful to be described; but the needful Brevity of this Work, will not admit of it: yet something of it may be touched upon.

- 1. That here are some wonderful Engines for throwing up Water, and such as are not to be seen any-where else; whereof one in particular threw up (as they assured us) 1200 Tons of Water in half an Hour, and goes by Wind-Sails, 12 Wings or Sails to a Mill.

- 2. Here are the greatest Improvements by Planting of Hemp, that, I think, are to be seen in England; particularly on the Norfolk and Cambridge Sides of the Fens, as about Wisbech, Wells, and several other Places, where we saw many hundred Acres of Ground bearing great Crops of Hemp.

- 3. Here is a particular Trade carried on with London, which is no-where else practised in the whole Kingdom, that I have met with, or heard of, viz. For carrying Fish alive by Land-Carriage; this they do by carrying great Buts filled with Water in Waggons, as the Carriers draw other Goods. The Buts have a little square Flap, instead of a Bung, about 10, 12, or 14 Inches square, which, being opened, gives Air to the Fish: and every Night, when they come to the Inn, they draw off the Water, and let more fresh and sweet Water run into them again. In these Carriages they chiefly carry Tench and Pike, Pearch and Eels, but especially the two former, of which here are some of the largest in England.

Whittlesea and Ramsey Meres are Two Lakes, made by the River Nyne, which runs through them; the first is between Five and Six Miles long, and Three Miles broad, and is indeed full of excellent Fish for this Trade.

The Hermen-street goes in a strait Line thro' great and little Stukely, antiently written Styvecle, which Name it acquir'd from its stiff clay Soil. In Great Stukely Church is a Font of a very antique Make. The Hermen-street, after this, becomes notorious by the Name of Stangate. Near Stilton some Parts appear still pav'd with Stone, which strengthens the Conjecture, that the Name Stangate was given it from thence. It traverses great Woods between the Two Saltries, where was a religious Foundation of Simon Silvanect, the second Earl of Huntingdon and Northampton; among the Ruins of which lie buried Robert Brus, Lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with Isabel his Consort, from whom the Scotish Branch of our Royal Family is descended. Near the Road Side Roman Urns have been dug up.

Half a Mile out of the Road is the Seat of Sir Robert Cotton, the learned Friend of the great Camden, where he had a choice Collection of Roman Inscriptions from all Parts of the Kingdom. The House was built in a magnificent manner of hewn Stone; but now lies in dismal Ruins. By it is a most beautiful Church, with a Tower; and in the Windows is fine painted Glass. From those Woods above-mention'd, your Eye commands the whole Level of the Fens, particularly Whitlesey-mere, where the Gentry have little Vessels to sail in for Pleasure. Sir Robert Cotton, digging the Foundation of a House on the Hill whence you enjoy this Prospect, found the Skeleton of a Fish, 12 Feet long.

A little to the Right lies Ramsey, famed for a rich Abbey; little of which is now left, but a Part of the old Gate-house. In the Yard I saw a neglected Statue of the Founder Alwyn, who was called Alderman of all England, and was Cousin to King Edgar, and Son of Duke Athelstan, surnamed Half-King. This is one of the most antient Pieces of English Sculpture which we know of. The Keys and ragged Staff in his Hand denote his Office. The Abbey was dedicated to St. Dunstan of Canterbury, and St. Oswald of York, and was a rich Foundation, and at the Dissolution valued at 1716l. per Annum. for the Maintenance of 60 Monks. In the Year 1721. a great Quantity of Roman Coins were found at Ramsey; which were believed to be hid there by the Monks upon some Inroad of the Danes.

At every Mile from Grantham to Stangate are Stones set up by Mr. Boulter, which he design'd to have carry'd on to London, for the general Benefit.

All the Country between Huntingdon River and Peterborough River, is Clay, Sand, and Gravel; but beyond that, to the Humber, Stone.

At Gunworth Ferry over Peterborough River is a Bridge, a few Years ago erected, where Boats pay Toll. The People of Peterborough were a good while averse to having their River made navigable, out of an absurd Notion, that it would spoil their Trade. But they begin to be better inform'd, or, as I may say, to have more Wit, on the Progress made in that Navigation, which I shall mention more particularly by-and-by, when I come to Oundle.

From the Fens, longing to be delivered from Fogs, and stagnate Air, and Water of the Colour of brewed Ale, like the Rivers of the Peak, we first set Foot on dry Land, as I called it, at Peterborough.

But before we enter it, we must not omit to take some Notice of Foderinghay Castle, situate on a Branch of the Nyne, famous for the Imprisonment and Decollation of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. It seems to have been very strong, and it had a high Mount or Keep, inviron'd with a deep Ditch. 'Tis mostly demolish'd, and all the Materials carry'd off; some say it was destroy'd by Order of King James I. in Revenge of his Mother's Sufferings. They pretended to shew me here the Ruins of the Hall, where that Princess was beheaded. It was the Seat of Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, whose Body was bury'd in the Collegiate Church here; a very neat Building founded by Edward Duke of York, likewise interred here. The Chancel in which they were bury'd, was intirely demolished at the Suppression; but these Monuments were restored by Queen Elizabeth. The Church Windows are filled with handsome painted Glass, sav'd by a Sum of Money to the Soldiery in the late Civil War, and represent St. Denys, St. Guthlac, Abp. Scrope, &c.

Peterborough stands in Northamptonshire, and is a little City of great Antiquity seated on the River Nyne, and indeed 'tis the least in England; for Bath, or Wells, or Ely, or Carlisle, are all much bigger; yet Peterborough is no contemptible Place neither. Here are some good Houses, a handsome Market-place, and the Streets are fair and well-built; but the Glory of Peterborough is the Cathedral, which is truly fine and beautiful, and the noblest Piece of Gothick Building in England; but it appears to be more modern, than the Story of raising this Pile implies, which was near 1050 Years ago. It wants only, to make it complete, a fine Tower Steeple, and Spire on the Top of it. A Mayor, Aldermen, and Recorder, are the chief Magistrates here.

In this Church was buried the Body of the unhappy Mary Queen of Scots above-mentioned, but it was afterwards removed by King James I. her Son, into Westminster-Abbey, where a Monument is erected for her, in King Henry VIIth's Chapel; tho' some do not stick to tell us, that tho' the Monument was erected, the Body was never remov'd.

Here also lies interred Catharine of Spain, another unhappy Queen, and the divorc'd Wife of King Henry VIII. and Mother to Queen Mary I. Her Monument is not very magnificent, but 'tis far from mean. Here is an old decayed Monument of Bishop Wulfer, the Founder of the Church; but this Church has so often been burnt and demolished since tha• Time, that 'tis doubtful, whether the Monument be authentick or not.

In the Cathedral is the Figure of one Scarlet, a Sexton, who buried the above named Two Queens, one 50 Years after the other, and under it the following Inscription:

You see old Scarlet's Picture stand on high,

But at your Feet there doth his Body lie.

He did interr Two Queens within this Place,

And this Town's Housholders in his Life's Space

Twice over; but at length his own Turn came:

Another Man for him should do the same.

He died at 95 Years old.

The Chapel here, called St. Mary's, is a very curious Building, tho' now not in Use. The Choir has been often repaired and beautify'd, and is now very fine; but the West End, or great Gate, is a Prodigy for Beauty and Variety. 'Tis remarkable, that as this Church, when a Monastery, was famous for its great Revenues, so now, as reduced, 'tis one of the poorest Bishopricks in England.

In the Year 1720. at Thorp, the Seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a Mosaick Pavement was found. This was undoubtedly a Villa of some Roman of Distinction. In the Garden are some fine antique Marble Statues, which suffer more from the Weather than from Age. In the Middle is a Livia of a Colossean Proportion: in the Four Quarters, Diana, Amphion, an Orator, and a Gladiator: upon the Terrace, an admirable Hercules killing the Hydra: in the Court, Two Equestrian Figures in Copper, King Henry IV. of France, and Don John of Austria. Over most of the Doors of the House, are placed Bustoes of Bassianus, Caracalla, and others. These Antiquities were of the Arundel Collection.

As great Part of Lincolnshire, which is a vastly extended County, remained yet unseen by me, I was obliged to turn North from Peterborough, and take a View of the Fens again, tho' we kept them at some Distance too. Here we pass'd the Welland at Market Deeping, an old, ill-built and dirty Town. Then we went thro' Bourn to Folkingham, near which we saw two Pieces of decay'd Magnificence; one was the old demolish'd Monastery of Sempringham, the Seat of the Gilbertine Nuns, famous for Austerity; and the other was the antient House of the Lord Clinton, Queen Elizabeth's Admiral, where that great and noble Person once lived in the utmost Splendor. The House, tho' in its full Decay, shews what it has been, and the Plaister of the Ceilings and Walls in some Rooms is so fine, so firm, and so intire, that they break it off in large Flakes, and it will bear Writing on with a Pencil or Steel Pen, like the Leaves of a Table-book. This Sort of Plaister I have not seen any-where so prodigiously fine, except in the Palace of Nonesuch in Surrey, near Epsom, before it was demolished by the Lord Berkley.

From hence we cross'd Part of the great Heath mentioned before, and came into the high Road again at Ancaster, a small, but antient Roman Village, call'd Segeloci. It is full of Remnants of Antiquity; a sufficient Testimony of which may be deduc'd from the Traffick which the Town's-people have for many Years carry'd on with the Sale of them. After a Shower the Schoolboys and Shepherds look for them on the Declivities, and never return empty.

The Town consists of one Street, running North and South along the Road. There is a Spring at both Ends of the Town, which, no doubt, was the Reason for the Romans pitching it at this Place; for there is no more Water from hence to Lincoln.

On the West Side of the Town is a Road, formerly design'd for the Convenience of those who travelled when the Gates were shut. In the Churchyard are two Priests cut in Stone.

This must have been a populous Place, from the large Quarries about it, and the Rock lying a very little way beneath the Surface.

From Ancaster we came to Grantham, famous for a very fine Church, and its Spire Steeple. The general Notion, that this Steeple stands leaning, is certainly a vulgar Error: I had no Instrument indeed to judge it by, but, according to the strictest Observation, I could not perceive it, or any thing like it, and am much of Opinion with that excellent Poet:

'Tis Height makes Grantham Steeple stand awry.

The chief Magistrate here is an Alderman, assisted by Twelve Justices. This is a neat, pleasant, well-built and populous Town, has a good Market, and the Inhabitants are said to have a very good Trade, and to be generally rich.

It was certainly a Roman Town, and Remains of a Castle have been formerly dug up there. The Spire Steeple is 100 Yards high, and equalled only by another in this County at Louth, besides the Tower of Boston. Here were many Religious Houses: Ruins of some of which still remain. In one just by the Market-place, is a very pretty little Chapel or Oratory adorned with Imagery. Here is a good Freeschool, erected by Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchestor; where Sir Isaac Newton received the first Principles of Literature, under the famous William Walker, then Schoolmaster. This Town lying on the great Northern Road is famous, as well as Stamford, for abundance of very good Inns, some of them fit to entertain Persons of the greatest Quality, and their Retinues, and it is a great Advantage to the Place.

Within a Mile of Grantham stands Belton, a late-built House belonging to the Family of Brownlow, Lord Tyrconnel in Ireland, one of the most regular and beautiful Seats in this County; adorned with curious Gardens, and a large Park. But I should not omit to take some Notice, before I quit Lincolnshire, of the Duke of Ancaster's pleasant Seat at Grimsthorpe. It is a handsome and commodious House: the Park is large and beautiful; the Lawn there, whereon is an annual Horse-race, is delightful. In the Middle of the Park stood Vaudy Abbey, founded Anno 1147, some small Ruins of which are still to be seen.

From a Hill, about a Mile beyond this Town North-west, being on the great York Road, we had a Prospect again into the Vale of Bever, or Belvoir. which I mentioned before; and which spreads itself here into three Counties, to wit, Lincoln, Leicester, and Rutlandshires: also here we had a distant View of Belvoir Castle, which, 'tis supposed, took its Name from the Situation, from whence there is so fine a Prospect over the Country, that you see from the Hill into Lincoln, Nottingham, Derby, Leicester, Rutland, and Northamptonshires. The Castle or Palace (for such it now is) of Belvoir is the Seat of the noble Family of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, who have also a very noble Estate, equal to the Demesnes of some Sovereign Princes, extending itself into Nottingham and Derbyshires far and wide, and in which Estate they have an immense subterranean Treasure, never to be exhausted; I mean the Lead-mines and Coal-pits, of which I shall say more in their Place.

In the fine Gallery of this noble Seat are very antient and modern Family and other Pictures, particularly the Original one of King Charles I. as he sat at his Trial.

At Bottesworth, on the Edge of Lincolnshire, we visited the Tombs of the Manners noble Family, which are worth seeing.

The other Towns which lie on the South-west of the Witham in this County, not already mentioned, are;

- 1. Beckingham, an inconsiderable little Place lying North of Grantham.

- 2. Dunnington, a good Market-town, noted for large Quantities of Hemp and Hemp Seed.

- 3. Seaford, situate in a Valley on a little River, which is so rapid, that its Streams never freeze. It has a good Market, and a long, square Market-place facing Three Streets. And also,

- 4. Bourne, famous for the Inauguration of Edmund King of the East-Angles.

Turning Southward from hence we enter'd Rutlandshire, remarkable for being the least County in England, having but Two Market-towns in it, viz. Okeham and Uppingham.

Okeham stands in the rich Valley of Cathross. It has a Castle, in which the Assizes are held, an Hospital for the Poor, and a Free-school for the Education of Youth. 'Tis a Custom in this Town, that when a Nobleman comes on Horseback within its Precincts, he is obliged to pay Homage of a Shoe from his Horse, or to commute for it in Money.

Uppingham is a new well-built Town, standing on a Hill; and has also an Hospital and Free-school.

This County, tho' so small, is famous for abundance of fine Seats of the Gentlemen, and some of first Rank; as particularly the Earls of Gainsborough and Winchelsea. The late Earl of Nottingham, at a very great Expence, rebuilt the antient Seat of Burleigh on the Hill, near Oakham, and on the Edge of the Vale of Cathross. It would take up too much of my Room to describe as I ought, this noble House, with its curious Paintings, fine Library, and delightful Gardens. I can only observe, that tho' there may be some sumptuous Palaces in England (which abounds with so many fine ones) that excel in this or that Particular; I do not know a House in Britain, which excels all the rest in so many Particulars.

I cannot help mentioning here, that I was drawn to make a Visit, in my Journey, to the Reverend Mr. Edward Roberts of Glaston, in this little County, purely for the sake of his excellent Character; and we were received by him with great Courtesy. This Gentleman had a very small Living in the County, the Income of which, with the Surplus of his Estate, he devoted to the Necessitous; and of late Years had provided himself with all Sorts of Medicines from London, so that his Time was spent in relieving the Poor in a double Capacity, as a Divine and a Physician. He often refused Promotions in the Church, tho' his Rectorship was accounted the poorest in the County; he disapproved Pluralities, and always look'd with Love on his Parish, as his Family: but this excellent Clergyman died a few Months after we were there, in March 1739-40, universally lamented. His Brother, Thomas Roberts, Esq died about Twelve Months before him, with as good a Character for a Lawyer, as this Gentleman had for a Divine; for he would give his Advice gratis, as well as his Practice, to all without Exception; and tho' a great Friend to the present Royal Family, would never accept of Place or Pension, and never would interfere in Elections, which he thought should always be left free, and uninfluenced.

From hence we came to St. Martins, and stopp'd at the George, out of Curiosity, because it is reckoned one of the greatest Inns in England, and thence proceeded to Stamford. This Town is placed in a kind of an Angle of the County of Lincoln, just upon the Edge of Three Counties, viz. Lincoln, Northampton, and Rutland: this Town boasts greatly too of its Antiquity, and indeed it has evident Marks of its having been a very great Place in former Days.

History tells us it was burnt by the Danes above 1500 Years ago, being then a flourishing City: it was also once an University, and here are still the Remains of Two Colleges, one called Blackhall, and the other Brazen Nose; on the Gate whereof is a great Brazen Nose, and a Ring through it, like that at Oxford; nor could it take this from Oxford, but Oxford from that, which is as old as Edward III. at the least, while that at Oxford was not built before Henry VII. But the famous Camps, and Military Ways, which still appear at and near this Town, are a more visible Testimony of its having been a very antient Town, and that it was considerable in the Romans Time.

It is now a very fair, well-built, and wealthy Town, consisting of Six Parishes, including that of St. Martin in Stamford-baron; that is to say, in that Part of the Town which stands over the River, which, tho' it is not a Part of the Town, critically speaking, being not in the Liberty, and in another County, yet 'tis all called Stamford, and is rated with it in the Taxes.

The Government of this Town is by a Mayor and Aldermen, and not, as some write, by an Alderman, and 12 Comburgesses.

They boast in this Town of very great Privileges, especially to their Mayor; such as being freed from the Sheriff's Jurisdiction, and from being impanelled on Juries out of the Town; to have the Return of all Writs, to be freed from all Lords-Lieutenants, and from their Musters, and for having the Militia of the Town commanded by their own Officers, the Mayor being the King's Lord-Lieutenant, and immediately under his Majesty's Command, and to be esteemed (within the Liberties and Jurisdiction of the Town) the second Man in the Kingdom; and the Grant of those Privileges concludes thus: Ut ab antiquo usu fuerunt, As of antient Time they had been accustomed: so that this Charter, which was granted by Edward IV. Anno 1461, seems to be only a Confirmation of former Privileges, not a Grant of new ones.

In the Church of St. Martin in Stamford-baron, is a very noble Monument of William Cecil Lord Burleigh, who lies buried there in a large Vault just under it; and opposite to it, on the North Side, is a more antient (but handsome) Monument, tho' not so magnificent as the former, in Memory of Richard Cecil, Esq and Jane his Wife, the Father and Mother of the said famous Lord Burleigh; also a more modern Monument for the great Earl who reedify'd the House; and for his Countess, a Sister of the late Duke of Devonshire: this is a finished Piece, 'tis all of the finest Marble, and was made at Florence, and sent over. The said Earl died on his Return from Rome, at Issy near Paris, Aug. 29. 1700.

There is a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Welland of Five Arches, and the Town-hall is in the Upper-part of the Gate, upon or at the End of the Bridge, which is a very handsome Building. Here are Two constant Weekly Markets, Three annual Fairs, and a great Midlent Mart; but the latter is not now so considerable, as it is reported to have been formerly.

But the Beauty of Stamford is the Neighbourhood of the noble Palace of the Earl of Exeter, called Burleigh-house, built by the said Lord Burleigh, Lord High Treasurer to Queen Elizabeth.

This House is situated in Northamptonshire; it is built all of Free-stone, looks more like a Town than a House, at which Avenue soever you come to it; the Towers and the Pinacles so high, and placed at such a Distance from one another, look like so many distant Parish Churches in a great Town; and a large Spire covered with Lead, over the Clock in the Centre, looks like the Cathedral, or chief Church of the Town.

The House stands on an Eminence, which rises from the North Entrance of the Park, coming from Stamford: on the other Side, viz. South and West, the Country lies on a Level with the House, and is a fine Plain, with Posts, and other Marks for Horse-races. As the Entrance looks towards the flat low Grounds of Lincolnshire, it gives the House a most extraordinary Prospect into the Fens, so that you may see from thence near 30 Miles, without any thing to intercept the Sight.

As you mount the Hill, you come to a fine Esplanade, before the great Gate, or first Entrance of the House, where is a small, but very handsome Semicircle, taken in with an Iron Balustrade; and from this, rising a few Steps, you enter a most noble Hall, but made infinitely more noble by the invaluable Paintings, with which it is so filled, that there is not room to place any thing between them.

John Earl of Exeter, Grandfather of his present Lordship, had a great Genius for Painting and Architecture, and a superior Judgment in both, as every Part of this noble Structure will testify; for he changed the whole Face of the Building, pulled down great Part of the Front next the Garden, and turned the old Gothick Windows into those spacious Sashes which are now seen there; and tho' the Founder, who had also an exquisite Taste, (as the Manner of Buildings then was) had so well ordered the Situation and Avenues of the whole Fabrick, that nothing was wanting of that Kind, and had also contrived the House itself in a most magnificent manner, the Rooms spacious, the Ceilings lofty, and the Decorations just; yet the late Earl found Room for Alterations, infinitely to the Advantage of the Whole; as particularly, a noble Stair-case, a whole Suite of fine Apartments, with Rooms of State, fit for the Entertainment of a Prince, especially those on the Garden Side.

As the noble Lord above-mentioned loved Paintings, so he had infinite Advantage in procuring them; for he not only travelled Three times into Italy, and stay'd every time a considerable while at Florence; but his princely Deportment, and fine Accomplishments, procured him the personal Esteem of the Great Duke, who assisted him in the Purchace of many excellent Pieces, and likewise presented him with several others of great Value.

Among the rest, there is, in the great Hall, his Lordship's Picture on Horseback, done by the Great Duke's principal Painter, at his Highness's Charge, and given to his Lordship, as a Mark of special Favour: there is also a fine Piece of Seneca bleeding to Death in the warm Bath, and dictating his last Morals to his Scholars; a Piece so excellent, that I have been told, the late King of France offered the Earl 6000 Pistoles for it.

The Stair-case, the Ceilings of all the fine Lodgings, the Chapel, the Hall, the late Earl's Closet, are all finely painted by the celebrated VARRIO, whom the Earl kept 12 Years in his Family, wholly imploy'd in them, and allow'd him a Coach and Horses, an Equipage, a Table, and Servants, and a very considerable Pension.

By the Park Wall, or, as some think, thro' the Park, adjoining to Burleigh-house, passed an old Roman Highway, beginning at Caster, a little Village near Peterborough; but which was antiently the Roman Station, or Colony, Durobrevum, as I have said. This whole Town takes in Three Squares of full 300 Feet each, two of which are allotted to the Castle: the third is an Area lying to the East before it, between the Castle and the Hill, which is still the Market-place. From under the Castle-walls, almost quite round, rise many quick Springs; but of these the Syfer Spring is the most noted, having now Four Fluxes of Water from between the Joints of great Stones, laid flat like a Wall, and join'd together with Lead, probably by the Romans, being under their Wall. It is very pleasantly overshaded with Trees. Its Name is Saxon, and signifies pure, which Appellation it well deserves. The Roman Way is still to be seen, and is now called The Forty-feet Way, passing from Gunworth Ferry (and Peterborough) to Stamford: This was, as the Antiquaries are of Opinion, the great Road into the North, which is since turned from Stilton in Huntingdonshire, to Wandsworth or Wandsford, where is a very good Bridge over the the River Nyne; which coming down from Northampton, as I have observed already, passed thence by Peterborough, and so into the Fen Country. But I am of Opinion, neither this nor Wandsford was the antient Northern Road used by the Romans; for 'tis evident, that the great Roman Causway is still seen on the Left-hand of that Road, and passing the Nyne at a Place called Water Neuton, went directly to Stamford, and passed the Welland, just above that Town, but not in the Place where the Bridge stands now; and this Roman Way is still to be seen, both on the South and the North Side of the Welland, stretching itself on to Brig Casterton, a little Town upon the River Guash, about Three Miles beyond Stamford; which was, as all Writers agree, another Roman Station, and was called Guasennae by the Antients, from whence the River is supposed also to take its Name; whence it went on to Panton, another very considerable Colony, and so to Newark, where it crossed the Foss.

Hence the Road goes by Stretton; then leaves a little on the Left-hand Colsterworth, highly memorable for being the Birth-place of the great Philosopher, Sir Isaac Newton.

This Forty-foot Way then must be a Cross-road from Caster, and by that from the Fen Country, so leading into the great Highway at Stamford: as likewise another Cross-road went out of the said great Road at Panton, a Village of Antiquity near Ancaster, to the Town of Ancaster, where a Roman Cohort was stationed, and thence joined the Foss again at Lincoln.

Near this little Village of Caster lives the Lord Fitzwilliams, of an antient Family, but of an Irish Title; his Lordship some Years ago built a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Nyne, near Gunworth, where formerly was the Ferry, as I have mentioned before; for the passing of which in a Coach, we paid 2s. 6d.

As we pass by Burleigh-park Wall, on the great Road, we see on the West Side, not above a Mile from it, another House, built by the same Lord Burleigh, and which might pass for a very noble Seat, were not Burleigh by. This is called Wathorp, and stands just on the great Roman Way, mentioned above; this is the House of which the old Earl is reputed to have said, he built it to remove to, and to be out of the Dust, while Burleigh-house was sweeping.

From hence we went to Oundle, being told that the famous Drum was to be heard at that time in the Well; but tho' we saw the Well, we heard no Drum, or any Noise at all. No Doubt, it is owing, if there be any thing in it, to the Passage of the Water and Air. Here are two long Stone Bridges. Lowick Church, on the Side of a Hill, is very fine. The Monuments of the Founder John de Drayton, of the Veres and Staffords, Earl of Wiltshire, &c. are to be seen here: as is that of the late Duchess of Norfolk, who, after her Divorce, married Sir John Germayn, of Drayton-house, who in a manner intirely new built this antient Seat.

Oundle is almost surrounded by the River, over which it has Two handsome Stone Bridges. It is a neat, uniform-built Town.

The Nyne has a Range of eminent Towns along the Banks of it; viz. Northampton, Wellingborough, Higham-ferris, Thrapston, Oundle, Foderinghay, Wandsford and Peterborough, all in this County. The two first I have already mention'd.

Higham-ferris is a small neat and healthful Mayor-town, pleasantly seated on a rising Ground, and is also an antient Borough.

Thrapston is delightfully situated in a fine Valley, and surrounded wlth a rich Soil, and well water'd. It has a fine Bridge over the Nyne; but is not eminent either for Trade or Buildings; tho' it will probably soon change its Face by virtue of an Act passed for making the Nyne navigable; which has had so good an Effect, that, when I was last there, the 17th of November 1737, on that very Day Boats were brought up to Thrapston for the first time, which occasioned much Joy in the Town.

Here also is a most beautiful Range of Meadows and Pastures, perhaps not to be equalled in England for Length. They stretch, uninterrupted, from Peterborough to Northampton, which is near 30 Miles in Length, and in some Places are near two Miles in Breadth; the Land rich, the Grass fine, and the Cattle which feed on them, hardly to be number'd.

North-west of this River lies Kettering, a handsome well-frequented Town upon a rising Ground; and beyond that again is Rothwell, a pretty good Market-town.

From Oundle we travelled North-east into Yarley in Huntingdonshire, a little Town tolerably well built. The Church has a neat lofty Spire. In our Way hither we crossed the Watling-street Way. At Overton, now called Cherry Orton, a Village near Gunworth Ferry, is an old Mansion-house, formerly belonging to a very antient and almost forgotten Family of great Men, called Lovetoft. On the other Side of the River, is the fine House I mentioned before, belonging to Sir Francis St. John, Bart. which affords a very beautiful Prospect to Travellers, as they pass from the Hill beyond Stilton to Wandsford Bridge. This Wandsford has obtained an idle Addition to its Name, from a Story firmly believed by the Country People; viz. That a great Flood coming hastily down the River Nyne, in Hay-making-time, a Country Fellow, having taken up his Lodging on a Cock of Hay in the Meadow, was driven, on the Hay, down the Stream in the Night, while he was fast asleep, towards Wisbech in the Fens; when being wakened, he was seen and taken up by some Fishermen, almost in the open Sea; and being asked, Where he lived? he answered, At Wansford in England. And we saw at the great Inn, by the South End of the Bridge, the Sign of a Man floating on a Cock of Hay, and over him written Wandsford in England.

Falling down Southward we come to Stilton, a Town famous for Cheese, which is called our English Parmesan, and is brought to Table so full of Mites or Maggots, that they use a Spoon to eat them. We came again into the Roman Way at Stilton, which comes from Caster aforementioned, and runs all the way to Huntingdon; which we followed thro' Sautery-lane, a deep Descent between two Hills, in which is Stangate-hole, noted for being the greatest Robbing-place in all this Part of the County, and so came to Huntingdon, antiently called Hunters-dune, the County-town, situated on a rising Ground, on the North Side of the Ouse. It is a great Thoroughfair on the Northern Road, and is full of very good Inns, and is a strong Pass upon the Ouse, and in the late Civil Wars, it was esteemed so by both Parties. It was given by King Stephen to David King of Scots, as an Augmentation to his Estate, and taken away by King Henry II. However, the Scotish Kings always claimed it.

It is a Mayor-town, and had antiently Fifteen Churches; of later Days, but Four, and in the Civil Wars they were reduced to Two. The Cause of its Decay at first, is said to be owing to a Court Minion, who procur'd the Passage of the Ouse to be stopped, which had been navigable to the Town. The said River is now made navigable for smaller Vessels to Bedford.

The Witches of Warbois, in this County, have made so much Noise, that I shall just mention the fatal End of a Man, his Wife and Daughter, who were all Three hanged for torturing the Children of a Gentleman in the Parish: the History of it is kept in Queen's College Library in Cambridge; and one of their Fellows preaches yearly, at Huntingdon, on that Occasion. The Children being sick, their Urine was sent to Master Dr. Dorrington at Cambridge, who sent a Medicine against Worms. That prevailing nothing, the Doctor, upon second Thoughts, pronounced the Symptoms were from Witchcraft. It was not long before a proper Family was suspected: the Woman and her Daughter were frequently sent for, and kept with the Children, and the Disease remitted upon the Sight of them; but chiefly upon a Confession, and a sort of Petition added to it. To this Effect was the Girl's: As I am a Witch, and a greater Witch than my Mother, so I desire, that the Pains shall go off from this Child. These Confessions were the chief Point against the Prisoners, which they had been prevailed upon to repeat by the Stranders-by, who had observed the Children relieved upon it, as they imagined. And thus Three unhappy Persons were sacrificed to Ignorance and Superstition.

I shall take farther Notice of this Subject when I come to Lancashire, a County formerly famous for Witches, and where Persons likewise suffered for this pretended Crime.

Here are the most beautiful Meadows on the Banks of the River Ouse, that I think are to be seen in any Part of England; which, in the Summer Season, are covered with such numerous Herds of Cattle, and Flocks of Sheep, as are hardly credible.

This Town is one long continued Street, pretty well built, especially from the Ground Plot, where the Castle stood. Here was born Oliver Cromwell, of genteel and worthy Parents. The House is newbuilt, but the Room in which he was born is preserved in its first State. It has a good Market-place; but the Free-stone Bridge, or Bridges rather, and Causway over the Ouse, are a very great Ornament as well as Benefit to the Place. Here is a good Publick School.

Between Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, (a Roman Camp) and Huntingdon, is a wooden Bridge erected over a Rivulet, upon Principles of Gratitude and publick Charity, with this Inscription: ‘ROBERTUS COOK emergens aquis hoc viatoribus
Sacrum D.D. 1636.’ That is: ‘ROBERT COOK, having escaped the Danger of Drowning, consecrated this for the Use of Travellers, 1636.’

On the West Side of this Town, and in View of the plain lower Side of the County, is a noble, tho' antient Seat of the Earl of Sandwich; the Gardens very fine and well kept; the Situation seems a little obscured by the Town of Huntingdon. In the same Plain we saw Bugden, a small Village, in which is a very pleasant, tho' antient House or Palace of the Bishops of Lincoln: the House and Garden surrounded by a very large and deep Moat of Water. The Chapel is very pretty, tho' small. There is an Organ painted against the Wall, in a seeming Organloft, and so properly placed, and well painted, that we at first believed it really to be one.

Erith is a large Town, but without a Market.

St. Ives is a pretty neat Market-town, but is lessen'd, and suffer'd greatly by Fire. Here Cromwell, after he had prodigally wasted his paternal Estate, rented a Farm, before he was elected Burgess for Cambridge.

Hinchinbroke-house, which gives Title of a Viscount to the eldest Son of the Earl of Sandwich, and the Village of the same Name, lie at a small Distance from Huntingdon. And a little Way South-west stands the Town of Kimbolton, and that most nobly situated and pleasant Seat of the Duke of Manchester, Kimbolton Castle, where no Pains or Cost has been spared tu improve the most beautiful Situation in Nature with the Works and Ornaments of Art.

Kimbolton Town is the Kiniubantum of the Romans. Here Queen Catharine, after she was divorced, resided for some time.

At Ailweston, in this County, are two Springs, one of fresh Water, good for dim Eyes; the other brackish, of Use for curing of Scabs, Leprosy, &c.

From Huntingdon we came to St. Neots on the Ouse, over which is a good Stone Bridge. The Church is strong and well built, and the Steeple manifests the Skill of the Artist, much to his Advantage. The Town takes its Name from Neotus, a learned and pious Man, who was interred here; from whom likewise St. Neots, in Cornwall, takes its Name, where he for some time resided. Hither Coals are brought by Water, and convey'd by Land around the Country.

Here we enter'd Bedfordshire, and came to Bedford, the chief Town; for it has no City in it, tho' this Town is larger and more populous than several Cities in England. It is one of the Seven Counties, which, they say, lie together, and have not one City among them; namely, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, Berks, Hertford, Essex, and Suffolk.

It is remarkable, that tho' a great Part of this County, viz. the two whole Hundreds of Stodden and Bedford, lie on the North of the Ouse; yet there is but one Market-town in all that Side of the Ouse, beside Bedford.

It is also remarkable, that tho' the Ouse, by a long and winding Course, cuts thro' the County, so as to make above 70 Miles between Oulney and St. Neots, not above 20 by Land, yet in all that Course it receives only the little River Ivel, which falls into it a little above Temsford.

Bedford is a large, populous, thriving, pleasant, and well-built Mayor-town; it has five Parish Churches, a very fine Stone Bridge over the Ouse, and the High Street (especially) is very handsome and well-built: here is also a fair Market-place; but it is much improved lately in new Buildings. The River hath also been made navigable, and runs thro' the Town. It had formerly a Castle, and now, where it stood, is one of the most beautiful Bowling-greens in the Kingdom. It has Two Hospitals for Lazars, and another for Eight poor People. Here is a Free-school well endow'd, and a Charity-school for Forty Children, and tho' the Town is not upon any of the great Roads in England, yet it is full of very good Inns, which afford elegant Entertainment; for here is the best Market for all Sorts of Provisions, that is to be seen at any Country Town in all these Parts of England; and the Reason of it is, that, tho' it is so far from London, yet the Higglers or Carriers buy great Quantities of Provisions here for the London Markets; here also is a very good Trade down the River to Lynn.

Here likewise is a great Corn-market, and vast Quantities of Grain are bought here, and carried down by large Vessels and Barges to Lynn, where it is again shipped, and carried by Sea to Holland. The Soil hereabouts is exceeding rich and fertile, and particularly produces great Quantities of the best Wheat in England, which is carried by Waggons from hence, and from the North Part of the Country 20 Miles beyond this, to the Markets of Hitchin and Hertford, and bought again there, and ground and carried in the Meal (still by Land) to London.

Indeed the whole Product of this County may be said to be Wheat and Malt for London; for here are very few Manufactures, except those of Straw Hats and Bone Lace; of which by itself. There are but Ten Market-towns in the whole County, which I shall recount as I took them in my Course.

Potton, which lies on the Borders of Cambridgeshire, and of no Note. Southward stands

Biggleswade, a pleasant situated Place on the Ivel, and furnished with a great Number of good Inns for accommodating Travellers between London and York. Still more Southward lies

Shefford, between two Rivulets; over each of which is a Bridge.

West of this Town stands Ampthill, a pretty Town, delightfully seated between two Hills. Near it is a large Park, with a great Mansion-house in it, which King Charles II. gave to the Noble Family of Bruce, who had their Title of Viscount from this Town; notwithstanding which, and that they were always Hereditary Stewards of the Manor of Ampthill, yet the present Lord Bruce lately sold his whole Estate here to his Grace the Duke of Bedford.

Queen Catharine, after she was divorced, chose this Town as one of her Retiring-places. Farther Southward is

Woburn, noted for having Plenty of Fullers Earth near it; and likewise another Kind of Earth, which petrifies Wood into Stone. This Town, having been almost demolished by a terrible Fire, which happened a few Years ago, is now rebuilt, and makes no mean Appearance. It belongs almost all of it to his Grace the Duke of Bedford, who finished, in Feb. 1737, a fine and commodious Market-place here.

The Duke's House, called Woburn Abbey, is just by the Town, a good old House, and exceedingly pleasant by its Situation, which is in a fine large Park walled round. The Duke had once designed to have pulled down the old House, and to rebuild it in a magnificent manner: but laid aside that Resolution, and only repaired it. There are many noble Rooms in it, and particularly a very capacious and long Gallery, furnished with a great Variety of fine Pictures, chiefly of the Russel Family: the Wainscoting of this noble Apartment is strewed, as one may say, with gilded Stars, which have a pretty Effect among the Pictures. A Room has been laid into this Gallery at one End, where a good Billiard-table is placed.

Before the House is a very large Bason of Water, surrounded with a fine broad Gravel-walk, which is bounded with Posts and Iron Chains. On the Water is a most beautiful Yacht of between 30 and 40 Tons Burden, elegantly carved and gilt, and completely rigged, and mounts Ten Guns, which are fired on Occasion of Entertainments, &c. given on Board her by his Grace. There is also an elegant Boat with a fine Awning over it, a Wherry of the common Shape, and a Skiff, which are very neat, and make a beautiful Appearance on this noble Bason of Water.

Near Woburn is Battlesden, the Seat of Thomas Page, Esq abounding with many Beauties, and still daily improving by additional Works in a very fine Taste.

Dunstable is seated on a Hill, in a chalky Ground, in the County of Bedford. It consists of Four principal Streets, answering to the Four Quarters of the World. It is well inhabited, and furnished with many good Inns for the Accommodation of Travellers. In the Centre stood one of Queen Eleanor's beautiful Crosses, which was demolished by the Parliament Soldiers. The Situation of this Place being high, and no running Water near, they are forced to draw it up from deep Wells by means of great Wheels; and they have Four large Ponds to receive the Rain-water, which, as a Mark of the holding Quality of the Soil, are never dry, tho' they have no other Supply. They have sometimes dug 24 Fathoms deep, in Search of Springs, to no Purpose.

Kingsbury, once a Royal Seat, over-against the Church, is now a Farm-house. The Church is composed of many Pieces tacked together, as it were, some of which are very old. It was Part of the Priory, and Archbishop Cranmer was the last Prior, who here pronounced the Sentence of Divorce against Queen Catharine.

The Gentlemen of Bedford lately came to a laudable Resolution of levelling the Chalk-hill near this Town, for the Benefit of the Road, which in a Frost, or after a Snower of Rain, used to be so slippery that neither Man nor Horse could keep their Feet, which occasioned often great Damage to both; to prevent which for the future, they imploy'd a Number of Hands to lower it.

Dunstable stands on the Roman Watling-street, just where it is crossed by Icknild-street. Here have been Roman Coins frequently found; and on the Descent of Chiltern Hills, not far from the Town, is a large round Area of Nine Acres, surrounded with a deep Ditch and Rampire called Mardin-hour. It was burnt by the Danes, and rebuilt by Henry I. to repress a vast Number of Robbers which infested the Country thereabouts; and it takes its Name from Dunning, one of the Thieves, and from Dunningcestaple it is now, by Contraction, called Dunstable.

On the Borders of Buckinghamshire stands Leighton, famous for a great Cattle and Horse-fair.

North-east of Dunstable, on the Edge of Hertfordshire, lies Luton, a little pretty Town, seated very pleasantly amongst Hills, and noted for a good Market and Market-place.

This County is remarkable for having more Noblemens and Gentlemens Seats in it than any County in England. The Middle Part of the County is well stored with Wood, which affords a great deal of Game.

Thro' the whole South Part of this County, as far as the Borders of Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire, the People are taken up with the Manufacture of Bone-lace, in which they are wonderfully increased and improved.

Also the Manufactures of Straw-work, especially Straw Hats, spreads itself from Hertfordshire into this County, and is greatly increased within a few Years past.

Having thus viewed this County in all its most considerable Towns, we came from Dunstable to St. Albans, where we saw the handsome Almshouses built and endow'd by the Marlborough Family, and so returned to London.

Yours, &c.

LETTER II. CONTAINING A Description of Part of Nottinghamshire, of Derbyshire, and Part of Yorkshire.

SIR,

HAVING finished the Account of my several Circuits, which complete the Southern Part of Britain; I am now to begin this Circuit from the River Trent, and to confine my Observations to the Country, which is called by some North by Trent.

The River Trent is deemed by antient Writers as the fourth capital River in England, the other three being the Thames, the Severn, and the Humber.

Tho' the Trent is not the largest, yet it may be said to run the longest Course, and rises nearer to the West Side of the Island than any of the others; it is also the largest, and of the longest Course of any River in England, which does not empty its Waters immediately into the Sea; for the Trent runs into the Humber, and so loses its Name before it reaches the Ocean.

It rises in the Highlands of Staffordshire called the Moorlands, receiving from the Edge of Cheshire, and towards Lancashire, a great many (some say 30, and that thence it had its Name, for Trent in French is 30) little Rivulets into it, very near its Head; so that it soon becomes one large River, and comes down from the Hills with a violent Current into the flat Country; where, being increased by several other little Rivers, it carries a deeper Chanel, and a stiller Current; and having given its Name to Trentham, a small Market-town in the same County, it goes on to Stone, a considerable Town on the great Road to West Chester.

One Branch of the Trent rises within a Quarter of a Mile of the Dane, from a Moor adjoining to a little Ridge of Hills, called Molecop Hill, near Congleton, within 22 Miles of the Irish Sea. As the Dane runs into the Weaver, and both into that Arm of the Sea, which the Mersee makes from Frodsham to Liverpool and Hyle-lake; and as the Trent runs into the Humber, which opens into the great German Ocean; these Rivers may be said to cut the Island across in the middle.

It is true, the Northern Part is much larger than the Southern, now Scotland is united; otherwise the Country South by Trent, including Wales, is by far the largest, as well as the richest and most populous, occasioned chiefly by the Commerce of the City of London. As for the Towns of Bristol, Exeter, Lynn, Norwich, Yarmouth, &c. which are large and very populous, and carry on a prodigious Trade, as well in Merchandize as Manufacture, we shall find them pretty near equalled by the Towns of Liverpool, Hull, Leeds, Newcastle, and Manchester, and the Cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow.

The Trent runs a Course of near 200 Miles, thro' the four Counties of Stafford, Derby, Nottingham, and Lincoln. It receives, besides lesser Waters, the larger Rivers of the Sowe from the West Side of the County, and from the Town of Stafford; the Tame from Birmingham and Tamworth, the Soar from Leicester, and the Dove and Derwent, two furiously rapid Streams, from the Peak of Derby; the Idle, a gentle navigable Stream, from Rhetford and Nottinghamshire, with part of the Witham, called the Foss-dike, from Lincoln, also navigable; and the greatest of them all, the Dun, from Doncaster, Rotheram, and Sheffield, after a long and rapid Course thro' the Moors, called Stanecross, on the Edge of Derby, and the West Riding of Yorkshire.

The Trent is navigable by Ships of good Burden as high as Gainsborough, which is near 40 Miles from the Humber by the River. The Barges without the Help of Locks or Stops go as high as Nottingham; and farther by the Help of Art, to Burton upon this River in Staffordshire. The Stream is full, the Chanel deep and safe, and the Tide flows up to Gainsborough and Newark. The Navigation, by these Advantages, is a great Support to the Trade of those Counties which border upon it, especially the Cheese Trade from Cheshire and Warwickshire, which have otherwise no Navigation but from these Parts about West Chester to London; whereas by this River it is brought by Water to Hull, and from thence to all the South and North Coasts on the East Side of Britain.

The only Towns of Note standing upon the North Shore of Trent, are Nottingham and Burton, of which I shall speak in their Order.

The Counties North of Trent are Yorkshire, which may not improperly be called three Counties, as it is divided into three Ridings, each equal to some large Counties; Lancashire, which is very large; Derbyshire, and Nottinghamshire, which are more Southerly. I shall begin with these two, and take them together.

Beginning at the Mouth of Trent, the first Town of Note that I met with is Nottingham, the Capital of that Shire, and the most considerable in all that Part of England. The County is small, but, like the Peak, full of Wonders. (1.) 'Tis remarkable for its Situation, being bounded intirely by four Counties, and those towards the four Cardinal Points, a Circumstance peculiar to this County only. (2) For its Soil, which on the South Part is the richest and most fruitful, and in the North Part the most wild and waste, even almost to Barrenness, of any Part of England within many Miles of it. (3.) For the fine Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen, especially those of the Dukes of Norfolk, Kingston, Rutland, Newcastle, Lord Middleton, and several others.

Nottingham is one of the most pleasant and beautiful Towns in England, from its Situation, were its Buildings not to be named.

It is situated on the steep Ascent of a Hill or Rock, overlooking a fine Range of Meadows of great Extent; a little Rivulet running on the North Side of them, almost close to the Town: and the noble River Trent, parallel with both, on the South Side of the Meadows. Over the Trent is a stately Stone Bridge of 19 Arches, where the River is very large and deep, having received the Addition of the Dove, the Derwent, the Irwash, and the Soar, three of them very great Rivers of themselves, which fall into it, after its passing by Burton in Staffordshire mentioned before.

The Rock whereon the Town stands is of a sandy kind, and so soft, that it is hewed into Vaults and Cellars, and yet so firm, as to support the Roofs of these Cellars, two or three under one another. The Stairs which lead to these Vaults are cut out of the Rock, two or three Stories deep, to 80 Steps sometimes: And these Cellars are well stock'd with excellent Ale, of which the Inhabitants are very liberal among their Acquaintance, as some in our Company experienc'd.

The Hill or Rock was called of old the Dolorous Hill, or Golgotha, because of a great Slaughter of the antient Britons there by King Humber, a piratical Northern Monarch; who, being afterwards drowned between Hull and Barton, gave Name, as 'tis said, to that Arm of the Sea which is now called the Humber, and receives the Trent, and almost all the great Rivers of Yorkshire, into it; tho' others derive the Name from the dreadful Noise of its Waves.

They tell us, that these Caves and Cellars served the People for a Retreat from their Enemies, and that from thence the Town first took its Name, which was Snottengaham, signifying hollow Vaults in a Rock, Speluncarum Domus; and, as Mr. Camden observes, the British Word was Tui ogo bauc, which signifies the same as the Latin, a House of Dens, or secret Caves to hide in.

Besides the delightful Situation of Nottingham towards the River, it is equally pleasant to the Land Side, towards the Forest on the North of the Town; where is a fine Plain for a Horse-course, where Races used to be run once a Year.

At the West End of the Town is a very steep Hill, and at the South Side of it a Cliff, which falls in a Precipice down to the River. On this Hill stood a Castle of so great Antiquity, that the Time of its first Erection could never be traced. The first Account we read of it, is, that there was a Tower here which the Danes obstinately defended against King Alfred, and his Brother Aethelred.

Upon the same Situation William the Conqueror, or, as others, with greater Probability, maintain, William Peverell, his natural Son, built another Castle; which was afterwards repaired, or rather rebuilt, by Edward IV. who added fine Apartments to it, which Richard III. his Brother, still farther inlarg'd; whereby it became in time very considerable, and so strong, that nothing could reduce it but Famine. 'Tis certain it has not undergone the ordinary Fate of other fortified Places, to be often taken and retaken; for it was never storm'd. Once indeed it was taken by Surprize in the Barons Wars by Robert Earl Ferrers, who also plundered the Town, or City, as it was then called.

The People here tell us of one of the Davids, King of Scotland, being kept Prisoner in it; and that Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, was hid in a Vault under Ground, which they call Mortimer's-hole, whence he was taken, and hang'd for Treason.

This Report has some Foundation in History, but is so obscured by vulgar Tradition, that it led Mr. Camden first into some Mistakes in his Narration, and afterwards into a Disbelief of it. Mortimer, with the Queen, the Bishop of Lincoln, and others, being possessed of the Castle, could have no Reason to hide himself under Ground: but it was by this private Passage, which goes by Steps thro' the Rock up to the Keep, that Sir William Montacute, with others, 5 Edw. III. found means, in the Dead of the Night, to seize him; and, sending him up to the Tower, he was there beheaded.

The Castle was granted by K. James I. to Francis Earl of Rutland; and K. Charles I. made it remarkable, by erecting there his Royal Standard, 1642; but he soon quitted it, and the Parliament kept Possession of it till the End of the War, when it was ordered to be demolished. Some Parts of it however were standing at the Restoration, when George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, whose Mother was the sole Heir of the foresaid Earl of Rutland, sold it to William Cavendish, Marquis of Newcastle. He, in 1674, cleared the Foundations of the old Tower, a small Part excepted, and founded the noble Structure which is now standing; and devolved to the House of Pelham. The present Duke of Newcastle beautified it, and wainscoted the Rooms with Cedar, and had laid out a Plan for the finest Gardens in all that Part of England, being to contain no less than 60 Acres; but the Design is changed, and the intended Gardens are made a Park.

The Castle, built on a high perpendicular Rock, as I have hinted, seems to have been modell'd after some of the Draughts of Inigo Jones. There are many good Pictures in it; and it commands a vast Prospect. The South Side of the Rock is altogether inaccessible, and vast subterraneous Grottoes are cut underneath; and a winding Stair-case quite to the Bottom ends in Mortimer's-hole, above-mention'd.

This Castle at present is much neglected, being stripp'd of its best Furniture and Hangings, and the Floors of some of the noblest Apartments suffer'd to fall in.

St. Mary's Church is a fine lightsome Gothick Building, with a good Ring of 8 Bells; but the great Tower makes a mean Appearance. The Butchers Shambles is an old Edifice built for a Granary.

They shew'd us the Gardens of Count Tallard, who, in his Confinement here, after having been taken Prisoner by the renowned Duke of Marlborough, at the glorious Battle of Blenheim, amused himself with making a small, but beautiful Parterre, after the French Taste, which happens not to be the reigning one with us at present. 'Tis said likewise, that this gallant Gentleman left behind him here some living Memorandums of his great Affection and Esteem for the English Ladies.

A handsome Town-house upon Piazzas has been erected within these few Years, for the transacting of the Business of the Corporation. Not many Years ago, the Hall where the Assizes were held gave such a Crack, that the People were exceedingly frighted, and all ran out of it, leaving Mr. Justice Powis upon the Bench, calling out after them, Is there nobody will take care of the Judge? for he was so aged and infirm that he could hardly walk. But, finding himself neglected, he made shift to descend from the Bench, and hobble out at the Door, where he denounc'd Vengeance against the Town, which, with a very seasonable Piece of Justice, he fin'd, for neglecting to keep the Hall in Repair.

The Town has been at great Expence in making the Trent navigable here for Vessels or Barges of Burden, by which all their heavy and bulky Goods are brought from the Humber, and even from Hull; such as Iron, Block-tin, Salt, Hops, Grocery, Dyers Wares, Wine, Oil, Tar, Hemp, Flax, &c. and the same Vessels bring down Lead, Coal, Wood, and Corn; as also Cheese in great Quantities from Warwickshire and Staffordshire, as I have already mentioned.

When I said the Bridge over Trent had nineteen Arches, I might have said also it was a Mile long; for the Trent, the last Time I was there, being swelled over its ordinary Bounds, reached quite up to the Town: yet a high Causeway, with Arches at proper Distances, carried us dry over the whole Breadth of the Meadows, which, I think, is at least a Mile, and may justly be called a Bridge, as that at Swarston, and also that of Poul Spooder in Wales, are called.

The chief Manufacture carried on here is Framework-knitting of Stockens, the same as at Leicester, and some Glass, and earthen Ware. The latter is much increased by the Consumption of Tea-pots, Cups, &c. since the Increase of Tea-drinking, as the Glass-houses, I think, are of late rather decreas'd. A Proof, one would think, that the Luxury of the Males is less predominant than that of the Females; or, rather as some would say, that the Men are brought over by the Ladies to join with them in the Love of the Tea-table: and indeed the latter seems pretty much the Case; whether it be owing to Gallantry and Complaisance, or to Effeminacy and Indolence, let those concerned in the Observation answer.

As they brew very good Liquor here, so they make the best Malt (and more of it) of any Town in this Part of England, and send it by Land-carriage to Derby, thro' all the Peak, as far as Manchester, and to other Towns in Lancashire, Cheshire, and even into Yorkshire itself; for which Purpose all the Low Lands of this County, and especially on the Banks of the Trent, are made to yield prodigious Crops of Barley.

The Government of Nottingham is in a Mayor, Recorder, six Aldermen, two Coroners, two Sheriffs, two Chamberlains, and 24 Common-council, whereof six are called Juniors. Here they hold a Court of Pleas. They have two Sergeants at Mace, and another Officer, which they call a Bill-bearer, and two more called Pindars, one for the Fields, and the other for the Meadows. The first is also the Town Woodward, and attends the Forest Courts; for this Town is within the Jurisdiction of the Forest.

I might enter into a long Description of all the modern Buildings erected lately at Nottingham, but that would be too great a Task; only I must take Notice of the House of Mr. Plumtre, which is justly to be admired for its elegant Front; and observe in general, that as the Castle has oftener been the Residence of Kings and Queens, than any other Place so far distant from London; so the Town has more Gentlemens Houses, than any other of its Bigness in Great Britain. One may easily guess Nottingham to have been an antient Town of the Britons. As soon as they had proper Tools, they fell to work upon the Rocks, which every-where offer themselves so commodiously to make Houses in; one Instance of which, tho' perhaps not old enough to be form'd on theirs, is a Ledge of perpendicular Rock in the Duke of Newcastle's Park, hewn into a Church, Houses, Chambers, Dove-houses, &c. The Church is like those in the Rocks of Bethlehem, in the Holy Land. The Altar is natural Rock, and there has been Painting on the Wall, a Steeple, where, perhaps, was a Bell, and regular Pillars. The River here winding about, makes a Fortification to it; for it comes to both Ends of the Cliff, leaving a Plain before the middle. The Way to it was by Gates cut out of the Rock, and with an oblique Entrance for more Safety.

Between this and the Castle is an Hermitage of like Workmanship.

Clifton, in this Neighbourhood, is a good Seat, with pretty Gardens, and a noble Prospect; and in the Church are many old Brasses of the Clifton Family.

Three Miles from Nottingham is Wallaton-hall, the Seat of my Lord Middleton, and the noblest Building in this County, except Belvoir, which only exceeds it in Spaciousness, but not in Beauty.

The Park, inclosed within a Brick Wall, is much finer than the great Park adjoming to the Castle of Nottingham, being much better planted with Timber; whereas that at Nottingham was all cut down, and sequestred in the late Wars.

There is a pretty Summer-house panelled and ceiled with Looking-glass, which produces a pleasant Effect. Underneath is a Water-house, with grotesque Work of Shells, &c. The Hall at the first Entrance into the House, is so high, that a Man on Horse-back might exercise a Pike in it.

The Forest of Shirwood is an Addition to Nottingham for the Pleasure it affords of Hunting. There are also some fine Parks and noble Houses in it, as Welbeck, the late Duke of Newcastle's, now Lord Oxford's; and Thoresby, the present noble Seat of the Pierrepoints, Dukes of Kingston, which lies at the farthest Edge of the Forest. But this Forest is now given up, in a manner, to Waste: even the Woods, which formerly made it famous for Thieves, are destroyed, so that Robin Hood would now hardly find Shelter for a Week; nor is there any Store of Deer now left, at least not worth mentioning.

From this Forest, I went purposely out of my intended Way, to take a View of the Collegiate Church of Southwell.

Southwell is a Market-town in Nottinghamshire, its Church is both Parochial and Collegiate; which, I think, is the Case of no other in England, except Rippon in Yorkshire. To it belong sixteen Prebendaries or Canons, six Vicars Choral, an Organist, six Singing Men, six Choristers, besides six Boys who attend as Probationers, a Register to the Chapter, a Treasurer, an Auditor, a Virger, &c.

This Church is generally supposed to be founded by Paulinus, the first Archbishop of York, about the Year 630. It was surrendered to the King, 32d Henry VIII. and was actually in the King's Possession, until by Act of Parliament, 35 Henry VIII. it was refounded, and restored to its antient Privilege, and incorporated by the Name of The Chapter of the Collegiate Church of the blessed Mary, the Virgin of Southwell.

Queen Elizabeth confirmed its Privileges; as did afterwards, on a Tryal at Law, King James I.

The Chapter have a peculiar Jurisdiction, and there are 28 Parishes subject to it, to most of which they have the Right of Presentation; besides some others in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. This Jurisdiction is exercised by a Commissary, or Vicar General, chosen by the Chapter out of their Body, who holds Visitations, &c. twice a Year. And besides these, there are two Synods yearly, to which all the Clergy of the County of Nottingham pay their Attendance; and a certain Number of the Prebendaries, and others of the considerable Clergy, are appointed Commissioners by a Commission granted by the Archbishop of York to preside at the Synods.

The Civil Government of the Jurisdiction of Southwell is distinct from the County at large. It is called the Soke of Southwell cum Scrooby, which is another Town in this County. There are about twenty Towns subject to this Jurisdiction.

The Custos Rotulorum, and the Justices of the Peace, are nominated by the Archbishop of York, and constituted by a Commission under the Great Seal of England, who hold their Session both at Southwell and Scrooby, and perform all other Justiciary Acts distinct from the County.

The Church is a strong plain Gothick Building; it has no painted Figures in the Glass Work, nor Images, nor so much as a Niche capable of placing an Image in. And from hence it has been conjectured, that it was probably built before Image-worship was practised among Christians.

On Monday the fifth of November 1711, about Ten a Clock at Night, the Top of the Ball on one of the South Spires of this Church was fired by Lightning; which, backed by a furious Wind, that drove it almost directly on the Body of the Church, in a few Hours burnt down the Spire and Roof, melted the Bells, and spared nothing which was combustible, except the other Spire, till it came to the Choir, where, after it had consumed the Organs, it was by singular Providence stopt and extinguish'd. The Damage was computed at near Four thousand Pounds.

The Church is built in Form of a Cross; a great Tower in the Middle, in which are eight Bells, and two Spires at the West End. There is a handsome Chapter-house on the North Side of the Choir.

The Length of the Church from East to West is 306 Feet, the Length of the cross Isle from North to South is 121 Feet; the Breadth of the Church is 59 Feet.

There are no very remarkable Monuments in this Church, except one of Archbishop Sands, which is within the Communion Rails, and is a fair Tomb of Alabaster, with his Effigies lying on it at full Length, with a fine Inscription upon it in Latin, greatly to his Honour; but which being very long, I have not Room to insert.

Here was formerly a Palace belonging to the Archbishop of York, which stood on the South Side of the Church, the Ruins of which still remain; by which it appears to have been a large and stately Building. It was demolished in the Time of the late Civil Wars. The Church escaped the Fury of those Times, by the good Offices of one Edward Cludd, Esquire, one of the Parliament Side, who lived at Norwood, in the Parish of Southwell, in a House belonging to the Archbishop. Here were no less than three Parks belonging to the Archbishop, which, though disparked, still retain the Name; one of which is Norwood Park, in which is a good House, which, has been very much inlarged and beautified by Mr. Burton, a Descendant of the above Edward Cludd, Esq who lives in it some Part of the Year.

There is a Free-school adjoining to the Church, under the Care of the Chapter, where the Choiristers are taught gratis, and other Boys belonging to the Town. The Master is chosen by the Chapter, and is to be approved by the Archbishop of York.

There are also two Fellowships and two Scholarships in St. John's College in Cambridge, founded by Dr. Keton, Canon of Salisbury, in the 22d Year of King Henry VIII. to be chosen by the Master and Fellows of the said College out of such as have been Choiristers of the Church of Southwell.

From Southwell I turned to the Left to Newsted, to visit the antient Seat of the very antient Family of the Byrons, who even in the Conqueror's Time were wealthy. It was a small Priory founded by King Henry II. and given by King Henry VIII to Sir John Byron; one of which Name having signalized himself very remarkably for his Loyalty to King Charles I. was created a Baron, which Honour still continues in the Family. Near this Place is the Head of the little River Lin.

We came next to Ainsley, which Town gave Name to a Family that were possessed of it from the Conquest to the Time of King Henry VI. from whence are descended the Earls of Anglesey: but for want of Heirs Male, it came then by Marriage into the Family of the Chaworths, who have a good Seat here, well wooded, and watered with beautiful Fish-ponds.

We then turned again on the Right to Mansfield, which lies in the Forest, a large well-built Market-town, noted now for its Trade in Malt, and for haveing been formerly the Place, to which the Kings of England used to retire for the Pleasure of Hunting in the Forest of Shirwood; insomuch that a Manor was held in this County by Henry Fauconberg for Shoeing the King's Horse, whenever he came to Mansfield.

From hence we kept still to the Right North-east, and came to Taxford in the Clays, an ordinary, dirty Market-town on the great Road to York, and of no other Note, than being situated in a miry, clayey Country, and call'd by King James I. Taxford in the T—d.

We kept the Road North to East Retford, so called as it lies on the East Side of the River Idle. It is an antient Bailiwick-town, and noted for an Exemption of all Tolls and foreign Services. It holds Pleas without Limitation of Sums, and enjoys many other valuable Privileges and Immunities. It has a Steward who is generally a Person of Quality.

West Retford is so call'd from its Situation in regard to the other, tho' they seem to be but one Town, the Idle only dividing them. This is famous for a fine Hospital, founded by Dr. Dorrel in 1666, and since incorporated. It has a Master, 10 Brethren, a Steward, and a Nurse; and they have a Garden and Orchard divided into 10 Shares.

Chaworth is a Village just by, noted for a fine Rectory of 200l. a Year.

Higher up stands Blith, which is a kind of Market-town, where are a very large good Church, and some old Ruins of a Castle and a Priory.

We then fell down Southward, and visited the noble Seats of the Duke of Kingston at Thoresby, of the Lord Oxford at Welbeck, and of the late Marquis of Halifax, but now of Sir George Savil, at Rufford, or Rugford Abbey, all very magnificent Structures though antient, especially that at Welbeck, which is beautified with large Additions, fine Apartments, and good Gardens; but particularly the Park, which is well stocked with large Timber of the finest Kind, and with great Numbers of Deer. For the late Duke of Newcastle's Delight (whose Property it was, before it came by Marriage into the Harley Family) being chiefly on Horseback, and in the Chace, it is not to be wondered, if he rather made his Parks fine than his Gardens, and his Stables than his Mansion-house: yet the House is noble, large, and magnificent.

Hard by Welbeck, near the Head of the River Ryton, is Wirksop Manor, the sometime stately Seat of the noble Family of Talbot, descended by a long Line of Ancestors from another Family illustrious, though not innobled, of Lovetofts; one of whom being Lord of this Place under the Normans, built a Priory here: and John, the second Earl of Shrewsbury, being slain at the Battle of Northampton, 38 Henry VI. was buried in it; which afterwards, at the Dissolution of Monasteries, was settled on Francis, his Great Grandson. This House (though in its antient Figure) is outdone by none of the best and greatest in the County. It now belongs to the Duke of Norfolk.

Here is a good Market-town also, of the Name of Wirksop, where are the Ruins of a Monastery to be seen in the Meadows on the East Side of it, and the West End of the Church, which is still standing, and has Two beautiful and fair Towers. This Place is noted for Liquorice and Malt.

From hence leaving Nottinghamshire, the West Part of which abounds with Lead and Coal, we came to Balsover in Derbyshire, which stands on a rising Ground, and has a Castle, and is the Property of the Duke of Newcastle, but is no Market-town.

From hence we intended to pass directly to Derby; but being informed, that the Moors, by reason of the Rocks and Bogs which render the Roads difficult and hazardous, were too dangerous to travel over, we left them on the West of us; and passing thro' Mansfield in Nottinghamshire, and Alfreton a small Market-town within the Skirts of Derbyshire, we arriv'd at Derby the County-town. But tho' we avoided the Moors, yet we had some Reason to complain of the Roads, which we took from the North of Nottinghamshire, where we were informed, that if we had come directly from Nottingham to this Town, and kept the Mid-way between the Trent on the Left, and the Mountains on the Right, we should have found the 12 Miles, which lie between them, as agreeable with respect to the Situation of the Country, the Soil, and the well planting of it, as any of the same Length in England.

The Town of Derby is situate on the West Bank of the Derwent, over which it has a very fine Stone Bridge, well-built, but antient, and a Chapel upon the Bridge, now converted into a Dwelling-house. It is a fine, beautiful, and pleasant Town, and has more Families of Gentlemen in it, than is usual in Towns so remote; perhaps the more, because the Peak, which takes up the larger Part of the County, is so inhospitable, rugged, and wild a Place, that the Gentry chuse to reside at Derby, rather than upon their Estates, as they do elsewhere.

Here is a Curiosity of a very extraordinary Nature, and the only one of the Kind in England: I mean those Mills on the Derwent, which work the three capital Italian Engines for making Organzine or Thrown Silk, which, before these Mills were erected, was purchased by the English Merchants with ready Money in Italy; by which Invention one Hand will twist as much Silk, as before could be done by Fifty, and that in a much truer and better Manner. This Engine contains 26,586 Wheels, and 97,746 Movements, which work 73,726 Yards of Silk-thread, every time the Water-wheel goes round, which is three times in one Minute, and 318,504,960 Yards in one Day and Night. One Water-wheel gives Motion to all the rest of the Wheels and Movements, of which any one may be stopt separately. One Fire-engine, likewise, conveys warm Air to every individual Part of the Machine, and the whole Work is govern'd by one Regulator. The House which contains this Engine is of a vast Bulk, and Five or Six Stories high.

A Patent passed 5 George I. to secure to Sir Thomas Lombe the sole Property of this Invention for 14 Years; but the requisite Buildings and Engines, and the instructing of proper Persons to work them, took up so much Time, and when all was completed, the King of Sardinia prohibiting the Importation of the Raw Silk made by the said Engines, into his Dominions, all which render'd the Undertaking expensive and difficult, and the Term of 14 Years being near elapsed, without any great Benefit accruing from the useful Invention, Sir Thomas apply'd for a Consideration from the Publick; and the Parliament accordingly, to preserve so useful an Undertaking for the Benefit of the Kingdom in general, allotted 14000l. to be paid to Sir Thomas, on Condition that he should allow a perfect Model to be taken of his new-invented Engines, in order to secure and perpetuate the Art of making the same. The Preamble to this Act sets forth, That Sir Thomas Lombe did with the utmost Difficulty and Hazard, and at a very great Expence, discover the Art of making and working the Three Capital Engines made use of by the Italians to make their Organzine Silk, and did introduce those Arts and Inventions into this Kingdom.

This wonderful Piece of Machinery was under the Direction of Sir Thomas Lombe, or, as some say, of his Brother, erected by one Soracole, a Man expert in making Mill-work, especially for raising Water to supply Towns for Family Use.

Derby, as I have said, is a Town of Gentry, rather than Trade; yet it is populous, well-built, has Five Parishes, a large Market-place, a beautiful Town-house of Free-stone, and very handsome Streets. But the Entrance into it every Way is so choaked up with Dirt and Mire, that it is no small Matter of Reproach to the Inhabitants.

In the Church of All Saints is the Burial-place of the noble Cavendish Family; and an Hospital close by the Church, built by one of that Family, for Eight poor Men, and Four Women.

This Church is remarkable for the Architecture of its beautiful Gothick Tower, 178 Feet high; and for the Elegance of its Ornaments, as well as Height, is not to be equalled in this, or in any of the adjacent Counties.

According to an Inscription in this Church, the Steeple was erected about Queen Mary's Reign, at the Charge of the Maidens and Batchelors of the Town; on which Account, whenever a Maiden, a Native of the Town, was married, the Bells used to be rung by Batchelors. How long the Custom lasted, I have not read; but I do not find it is now continued. This Union of the Maidens and Batchelors to build a Steeple, reminds me of a Bell cast by a like Contribution, upon which was this Device, ‘ Materiem Juvenes, Formam tribuere Puellae. ’

The Government of this Town is in a Mayor, High Steward, 9 Aldermen, a Recorder, 14 Brothers, 14 Capital Burgesses, and a Town Clerk. What Trade there is in the Town is chiefly in good Malt and good Ale.

Beyond Derby, along the Ricning Way, is Burton upon Trent, where is a Bridge of 37 Arches. Here was an old Abbey, out of whose Ruins they have within these few Years built a new Church.

A Mile below Derby, upon the Derwent, stood the old Roman Derventio, now Little Chester. Remains of the old Walls, Vaults, Wells, Roman Coins, Aqueducts, Human Bones, Brass Rings, and other Marks of Antiquity, have been from time to time discovered and dug up. The River being too rapid for a Ford, a Bridge was antiently there, the Foundations of which with a Staff they can still feel.

A little further North, is Horreston Castle, whose Ruins on a hoary Rock, are scarce discernible.

It is observable, that as the Trent bounds the County of Derby South, so the Dove and the Erwash make the Bounds East and West, and the Derwent runs thro' the Centre, all of them beginning and ending their Course in the same County; for they rise in the Peak, and end in the Trent. The Derwent is remarkable for its Brownness, the Dove for its blue Transparency, from whence it probably took its Name. It is endued with such a peculiar Fecundity, supposed to arise from a Bed of Lime, thro' which it passes, that it has often been compared to the River Nile.

It is not less swift in its Operations than effectual; for by hasty Rains, which fall from the Hills, it sometimes strays over the Meadows, and having impregnated them, in 12 Hours time retires into its Bed again.

It was in one of these temporary Inundations I saw it, when having gone from Derby to Dowbridge, as it is called, I passed it with Difficulty to see Two Market-towns, Ashbourn, and Utoxeter, the Utocetum of the Antients.

The first lies on the East Side of the River in a very rich Soil to the North-west of Derby, and the other, commonly called Utcester, is situate due West of Derby, on the other Side of the River in Staffordshire, upon a delicious rising Ground of an easy Ascent, and very fruitful, overlooking a Track of fine, rich Meadow-grounds. The Town is very ordinarily built, but has a good and commodious Market-place, and an excellent Market for all sorts of living Kine, besides Butter, Cheese, and Corn, and also all kinds of Provisions.

In our Way to the High Peak we passed an antient Seat, large, but not very gay, of Sir Nathanael Curson. From hence we kept the Derwent on our Right-hand, which having overflowed its Banks, by the Accession of Floods pouring down from the Peak Hills, render'd it so frightful, that we contented ourselves with hearing at a Distance its shocking Roar; and so came to Quarn, or Quarnden, a little ragged, but noted Village, where is a famous Chalybeat Spring, to which abundance of People resort in the Season to drink the Water; as likewise a Cold Bath. There are also several other Mineral Waters in this Part of the Country, a hot Bath at Matlock, and another at Buxton, of which in their Places. Besides these, there are hot Springs in several Places which run waste into the Ditches and Brooks, and are taken no notice of, being remote among the Mountains, and out of the Way of common Resort.

We found the Wells at Quarn pretty full of Company, the Waters good, and very physical, but wretched Lodging and Entertainment.

From Quarnden we advanced due North, and mounting the Hills gradually for Four or Five Miles, we soon had a most dismal View of the black Mountains of the Peak; however, as they were at a Distance, and a good Town lay on our Left, called Wirksworth, we turned thither for Refreshment. Here we found verify'd what I had often heard before, that however dreary the Hills might appear, the Vales were every-where fruitful and delightful to the Eye, also well-inhabited, and having in them good Market-towns, abounding with all necessary Provisions; and as for the Ale, the further we went Northward, the better it seemed to be.

Wirksworth is a large well-frequented Market-town; tho' there is no very great Trade carry'd on in it, but what relates to the Lead-works.

The Peakrills, as they are called, are a rude boorish kind of People; but bold, daring, and even desperate in their Search into the Bowels of the Earth: for which Reason they are often imployed by our Engineers in the Wars to carry on the Sap, when they lay Siege to strong fortified Places.

The Barmoot Court, kept at Wirksworth, to judge Controversies among the Miners, and adjust subterranean Quarrels and Disputes, is very remarkable. It consists of a Master and 24 Jurors, who, when any Person has found a Vein of Ore in another's Land, (except it be in Orchards or Gardens) assign two Meres of Ground in a Pipe (as they term it) and a Flat, the former being 29 Yards long, and the latter 14 Yards Square, appointing to the Finder one Mere, and the other to the Owner of the Land, half at each End of the Finder's; and moreover, certain Fees and Perquisites for the Passage of Carts, the Use of Timber, and the like. This Court not only prescribes Rules to the Miners, and limits their Proceedings in the Works under-ground, but is Judge of all their little Quarrels above.

The Produce of the Mines in this Hundred is very considerable: the King claims the 13th Peny Duty, for which they compound at the Rate of 1000l. a Year; nay, I have been informed, that the Tythe of Wirksworth alone has been worth to the Incumbent yearly that Sum.

Not far from hence lies Hartington, which gives Title of Marquis to the eldest Son of the Duke of Devonshire.

Near Wirksworth, and upon the very Edge of Derwent, is a Village called Matlock, where, as I said, are several warm Springs. One of these is secured by a Stone Wall on every Side, by which the Water is brought to rise to a due Height; and if it is too high, there is a Sluice to let it out as low as you please. It has a House built over it, and room within the Building to walk round the Bath, and so by Steps go down gradually into it. The Water is but just Milk-warm, so that it is no less pleasant to go into, than sanative.

This Bath would be much more frequented than it is, if a sad, stony, mountainous Road, which leads to it, and no good Accommodation when you are there, did not hinder; for from the Bath you are to cross over the Meadows, and then ascend a Derbyshire Hill, before you meet with a House of Refreshment.

For some Miles before you come to Matlock, you pass over barren Moors in perpetual Danger of slipping into Coal-pits and Lead-mines, or ride for Miles together on the Edge of a steep Hill on solid slippery Rock, or loose Stones, with a Valley underneath, the Bottom of which you can hardly discover with your Eye. Instead of Trees and Hedges, they fencein their poor Meadow for Arable, with Walls made of loose Stones, pick'd from under their Feet. The extended Sides of the Mountains are generally powder'd over, as it were, with Rocks, Streams of Water dribbling down every where, and sometimes bolder Cataracts diversify the romantick Scene.

At the Smelting-mills, they melt down the Lead Ore, and run it into a Mold, whence it becomes Pigs, as they call them. The Bellows are kept in continual Motion by running Water. We were complimented to be let down 200 Yards deep into the Mines, if we pleas'd. Over-against this warm Bath, and on the East-side of the Derwent, we came to a monstrous Parcel of gigantick Rocks, seemingly pil'd on one another, called the Torr. A few Inhabitants in little Cottages trusted themselves at Bottom, under so ruinous a Shelter. I took the Pains on Hands and Knees to clamber near the Top, and enter'd an Hermit's Cell hewn in the Rock, with a most dreary Prospect before it. On one End is a Crucifix and a little Nich, where I suppose the Anchorite plac'd his Saint. Over-against it, about half a Mile off, is such another Cliff, but by the Care of a Gentleman who lives underneath, Mr. Ashe, is hewn out of the Rock an easy Ascent by Steps, and there are abundance of Alcoves, Grotts, Summer-houses, Cellars, Pinacles, Dials, Balustrades, Urns, &c. all of the same Materials. And by the Help of Earth carry'd up to the Top, there are fine Grass Walks, with Greens planted along them upon this hanging Terrace; whence you have a fine View over many a craggy Mountain.

A little on the other Side of Wirksworth begins a long Plain, called Brassington Moor, which reaches from Brassington to Buxton, full 12 Miles: from Wirksworth it is not quite so much. The Peak People, who are mighty fond of raising the Admiration of Strangers, told us here of another high Mountain, where a Giant was buried, which they called the Giant's Tomb.

We rode up the Hill, which seem'd to be round, with a Precipice almost on every Side of it. While we were in quest of the Tomb of the Dead, we found the Rock afforded an Habitation for a poor Woman and her Children. We entered into their Mansion, divided by a Curtain into its several Offices, and a Funnel work'd thro' the Top to carry the Smoke out, where the celebrated Tombstone was. Her Husband, she said, was a Miner, who, if he had good Luck, could earn his Five Pence, and she could also earn her Three Pence a Day, were it not for the Care of so many Children; but, she blessed God, they lived very comfortably. An Instance of that happy Contentment oftener met with in Habitations like this, than in gilded Palaces!

We went next, by the Direction of the good Woman, to a Valley on the Side of a rising Hill, where were several Grooves (for so they call the Mouth of the Shaft, or Pit, by which they go down into a Lead Mine). As we were standing still to look at one of them, admiring how small they were, and scarce believing a poor Man, who told us they went down those narrow Holes to a great Depth in the Earth, we were surprised with seeing a Hand, and then an Arm, and quickly after a Head, thrust up out of the very Groove we were looking at.

Immediately we rode closer up to the Place, where we saw the poor Wretch working and heaving himself up gradually, as we thought, with Difficulty; but when he shewed us that it was by setting his Feet and Elbows upon Pieces of Wood fixt cross the Angles of the Groove like a Ladder, we found the Difficulty was not much, and that if the Groove had been larger, he could not go up and down with so much Ease or Safety.

Those who would have a more perfect Idea of those Grooves, need only see the square Wells in the Church of St. Paul, by which the Workmen go down from the Top of the Church into the very Vaults under it, to place the Leaden Pipes, which carry the Rain Water from the Flat of the Roof to the Common-sewer. They have small Iron Bars placed cross the Angles for the Men to set their Feet on, in the manner here represented.

When this subterranean Creature was come quite out, with all his Furniture about him, he afforded us new matter of Wonder, which satisfy'd our Curiosity without venturing down ourselves. For the Man was a most uncouth Spectacle; he was cloathed all in Leather, had a Cap of the same without Brims, some Tools in a little Basket, which he drew up with him, not one of the Names of which we could understand, but by the Help of an Interpreter. Nor indeed could we understand any of the Man's Discourse, so as to make out a whole Sentence, and yet he was pretty free of his Tongue too. He was lean as a Skeleton, pale as a dead Corps, his Hair and Beard a deep black; what little Flesh he had, was lank, and, as we thought, something of the Colour of the Lead itself. Besides his Basket of Tools, he brought up with him about three Quarters of a hundred Weight of Ore, which was no small Load, considering the Manner of his coming up; and it was this which occasioned that Heaving and Struggling at his first Appearance; and it seems he was at work 60 Fathoms deep, but that there were five Men of his Party, two of whom were 11 Fathoms, and the other three 15 Fathoms deeper. The Man seemed to regret, that he was not at work with these three; for they had a Way out at the Side of the Hill, without coming up so high as he was obliged to do. We then looked on the Ore, and got the poor Man's Leave to bring every one a small Piece of it away with us, for which we gave him two Pieces of better Metal.

From hence entering upon Brassington Moor, mentioned above, we had eight Miles smooth Green Riding to Buxton Bath, which they call One of the Seven Wonders of the Peak, comprised in that noted Verse of Mr. Hobbs,

Aedes, Mons, Barathrum, binus Fons, Antraque bina.

House, Mountain, Depth, two Fountains, and two Caves.

This Place has some Advantages beyond what the City of Bath can pretend to. Here is an open and healthy Country, a Variety of fine Views to entertain the Curious, and a beautiful Down for the Ladies to take the Air in, much more agreeable than the close City of Bath, which is very deficient in this Particular.

And as to the Medicinal Nature of the Waters at Buxton, hear what Dr. Leigh says of their Virtues, and the Manner of their Operation, in his Natural History of Lancashire, and of the Peak. His Words are as follow:
"The Waters are Sulphurous and Saline, yet not fetid, but very palatable, because the Sulphur is not united with any Vitriolic Particles, or but very few Saline; it tinges not Silver, nor is it Purgative, because its Saline Parts are dispensed in such small Proportions.

"If drank, they create a good Appetite, open Obstructions, and no doubt, if mixed with the Chalybeat Waters that are there also, may answer all the Intentions of the Bath Water in Somersetshire, and that of St. Vincent's too at Bristol, so noted for curing the Diabetes, of which I have seen several Instances in these Parts; and likewise for curing of Bloody Urines, of which I saw a most noted Instance at Liverpool.

"This Bath is of a temperate Heat, and, without question, by a reverberating Halitus might be brought to any Degree of Heat; but, I think, in its own natural Heat, it may in general be said to be more agreeable to the Constitution; and where the hot Baths cannot be safely used, this may. This last Summer I saw remarkable Instances of its Effects in scorbutick Rheumatisms in Persons, that could not go before without the Help of Crutches, who came from thence to Manchester on Foot without them, distant from Buxton full 16 Northern Miles."

The Village where the principal Springs are, is called Buxton, tho' there are several of them; for they rise unregarded in the Banks of the Inclosures, and on the Sides of the Hill, so that their Number is hardly known.

The Duke of Devonshire, Lord of the Village, has built a large and convenient House for the Reception of Strangers. The Bath-room is arched overhead, and the Whole made handsome, convenient, and delightful. This Collection of tepid Waters, exceeding clear, will receive 20 People at a time to walk and swim in. The Temper of the Water is equal to new Milk, or Blood-warm, procuring a moderate Perspiration. Its Effect is remarkable for giving that gentle Relaxation of the Solids; which takes off the Weariness and Fatigue of a Journey, and refreshes instantly. 'Tis physically useful in many Cases, and may be indulg'd in more, than the Hot-baths of Somersetshire, which frequently do Harm thro' imprudent Use. Such a one as this naturally is, was aimed at by the sumptuous Bagnio's of the Roman Emperors.

Sir Thomas Delves, who received a Cure here, gave the Pump, and a pretty Stone Alcove over the Drinking-spring in the Yard. The Water may be raised at pleasure to any Height. We found in one of the Rooms these Verses written upon the Wall by a Physician who formerly frequented the Place:

Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis:

Quaerit aquas Aponi, quem febris atra necat:

Ut penitus renem purget; cur Psaulia tanti,

Vel, quae Lucinae gaudia, Calderiae?

Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britannis

Undae Grani, Aponus, Psaulia, Calderiae.

Which may be thus translated:

In Gran's fam'd Baths the weakly Patient laves;

Whom dismal Fevers seize, in Apon's Waves.

At Psaulia shall a Purge so dear be bought?

In teeming Throes Calderiae far be sought?

When here at Buxton (Britain's Choice) appear,

[*] Gran, Apon, Psaulia, and Calderiae, near.

As to the Antiquity of these Baths, tho' there is not a King Bladud to testify for them, as for those at Bath in Somersetshire, yet the learned Author above-mentioned observes, "That it is certain they were eminent in the Time of the Romans. Lucan and others acquaint us, that they were extraordinary hot, &c. and the High-road, called the Roman Bath-gate, as Mr. Camden says, farther confirms it. But it is especially evident from a Roman Wall cemented with red Roman Plaister, close by St. Anne's Well, where we may see the Ruins of the antient Bath, its Dimensions, and Length."

The Queen of Scots took her Leave of this Place with a Distich of Julius Caesar, somewhat altered, which is still shewn, written with a Diamond on a Pane of Glass, as the last Classical Authority of Antiquity:

Buxtona, quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae,

Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, vale.

Buxton, whose Fame thy Baths shall ever tell,

Whom I perhaps shall see no more, farewell.

About half a Mile off is that stupendous Cavern, called Poole's-hole, at the Foot of a great Mountain, and deemed the Second Wonder of the Peak. The Entrance is so low and narrow, that you must stoop to get in; but immediately it dilates into a wide and lofty Concavity, which reaches above a Quarter of a Mile end-wise, and farther, as they say. Some old Women with lighted Candles are Guides in this dark Way. Water drops every-where from the Roof, and incrusts all the Stones with long Crystals and Fluors, whence a thousand imaginary Figures are shewn you by the Name of Lions, Fonts, Lanterns, Organs, Flitch of Bacon, &c. At length you come to the Queen of Scots Pillar, as the Boundary of most Peoples Curiosity. It was so named by that unhappy Princess, when she visited this Place: Nor needed she any other Monument; for, by this Incident, she may be said to have erected one to her Memory, which will probably last as long as the Works of Nature; tho' every one almost that comes hither, carries away a Piece of it, in Memory of the Princess, or the Place. It is a clear bright Stone like Alabaster, or rather like that kind of Spar, which is found about Lead; and considering the Country where it grows, is probably something of that Sort.

A Stream of Water runs along the Middle, among the falling Rocks, with a hideous Noise, re-echo'd from all Sides of the horrid Concave. On the Left-hand is a Sort of Chamber, where they say Poole, a famous Robber, lived, and whose Kitchen, as well as Bed-chamber, they shew you, after you have crept 10 Yards on all Fours.

The most surprising Thing you meet with in it, is the extraordinary Height of the Arch, which however is far from what a late Author has magnified it to, a Quarter of a Mile perpendicular. Dr. Leigh spends some Time in admiring the spangled Roof. Cotton and Hobbes are exceedingly witty upon it. Dr. Leigh calls it Fret-work, Organ, and Choir-work. The Whole of the Matter is this: The Rock being every-where moist and dropping, some of the Drops are fallen, which you see below; some are falling, and others are pendent in the Roof. Now, as you have Guides before you and behind, carrying every one a Candle, the Light of the Candles, reflected by the globular Drops of Water, dazle your Eyes like the Dew in a Sun-shine Morning; whereas, were any Part of the Arch of this Vault to be seen by a clear Light, all this Beauty would disappear.

Let any Person therefore, who goes into Poole's Hole, and has a Mind to make the Experiment, take a long Pole in his Hand, with a Cloth tied to the End of it, and wipe the Drops of Water away, he will at once extinguish all those Glories. Then let him wait till other Drops emerge, and he will find the Stars and Spangles glittering as before.

As to the several Stones, called Cotton's Stone, Haycock's Stone, Poole's Chair, Flitch of Bacon, and the like, they do not enough resemble what they are said to represent, as to be the Foundation of even a Poetick Metamorphosis.

The petrifying Water indeed might have exercised Ovid's Fancy: for you see Drops pendent like Icicles, or rising up like Pyramids, and hardening into Stone, just the Reverse of what the Poet describes of Stones being soften'd into Men.

The Third Wonder of the Peak is Mam Tor, or, as the Word in the Mountain Jargon, or rather in the British, signifies, the Mother Rock, (for Mam is the British Word for Mother) upon a Suggestion, that the soft crumbling Earth, which falls from its Summit, produces several other Mountains below. The Whole of the Wonder is this: On the South Side of this Hill is a Precipice, very steep from the Top to the Bottom; and the Substance being of a crumbling loose Earth mingled with small Stones, is continually falling down in small Quantities, as the heavy Rains loosen and wash it off, or as Frosts and Thaws operate upon it. Now, the great Hill, which is thick, as well as high, parts with this loose Stuff, without being sensibly diminished; so the Bottom, into which it falls, being narrow, is more easily perceived to swell. Here then is the pretended Wonder, That the little Heap below should grow up into a Hill, without any Decrease of the great Hill, as it should seem, notwithstanding so much has fallen from it. But the Fact is certainly otherwise, tho' not perceivable.

This Hill lies on the North Side of the Road from Buxton to Castleton, at which Place you come to the Fourth much famed Wonder, styled The Devil's Arse in the Peak. The short Account of it is this: On the steep Side of a Mountain is a large Opening, almost in the Form of an old Gothick Arch, from its Centre, only that the Entrance is horizontal. It is upwards of 30 Feet perpendicular, and twice as much broad at the Bottom at least.

It continues thus wide but a little Way, yet far enough to have several small Cottages built on either Side of it within the Entrance, like a little Town in a Vault. In the Middle, as it were, of the Street, is a running Stream of Water: in poetical Descriptions it is called a River, tho' not the River Styx.

As you go on, the Roof descends gradually, and is now so far from having Houses, that a Man cannot stand upright in it till stooping for a little Way, and passing over another Rill of Water, likewise called a River, you find more Room over your Head. But going a little farther, you come to a third Water, which crosses your Way; and the Rock stooping, as it were, down almost to the Surface of the Water, puts an End to the Traveller's Search.

But when we read in Scripture, that the Caves of Adullam and Macpelah were able to receive David and his Troop of 400 Men, and what Travellers relate of a Cave in the Apennine Mountains, near Florence, large enough to contain an Army; and when we know, that there are many others in the Alpes, and the Hills of Dauphiné and Savoy, and other Parts of the World; this surely can be thought no Wonder, unless we credit Gervaise of Tilbury, who tells us of a Shepherd, that ventured into the third River in this Den, and being either carried over it, or down the Stream, he knew not whether, saw a beautiful heavenly Country beyond it, with a spacious Plain, watered with many clear Rivers, pleasant Brooks, and several Lakes of standing Water.

Castleton takes its Name from the Castle that lies near it, which is a very antient Building, and so situated as to be only one Way accessible, being erected on an high steep Rock; and the Way, that goes to it, is so full of Twinings and Turnings, that it is Two Miles from the Bottom to the Top.

Not far off is a little Village called Burgh, frequented by the Romans, on account of the Baths, as appears evidently by a Causway leading from hence thither.

The Fifth Wonder is called Tideswell, or Weedenwell, a Spring which, according to some Writers, ebbs and flows, as the Sea does. The Basin, or Receiver for the Water, is about Three Foot Square; the Water seems to have some other Receiver within the Rock, which, when it fills by the Force of the original Stream, the Air being contracted, or pent in, forces the Water out with a bubbling Noise, and so fills the Receiver without; but when the Force is spent within, then it stops till the Place is filled again; and, in the mean time, the Water without runs off, till the Quantity within swells again, and then the same Cause produces the same Effect. So that this Oceanet, as Mr. Cotton calls it, which has been the Subject of several Philosophick Inquiries, is owing wholly to the Figure of the Place, and is only a mere Accident in Nature; and if any Person were to dig into the narrow Cavities, and give vent to the Air, which is pent up within, they would soon see Tideswell turned into an ordinary Stream.

This Spring lies near the little Market-town of Tiddeswall, wherein are a very good Church, and a Free-school.

So much for the Five fictitious Wonders: I come now to the Two real Wonders, Elden Hole, and the Duke of Devonshire's fine House at Chatsworth; the one natural, the other artificial.

In the Middle of a plain open Field, gently descending to the South, is this frightful Chasm in the Earth, or rather in the Rock, called Elden Hole. The Mouth of it is about 20 Feet over one Way, and 50 or 60 the other, descending down perpendicular to the Earth; how deep, could never yet be discovered, notwithstanding several Attempts have been made to find its Bottom. Mr. Cotton says, he let down 800 Fathom of Line, which is 1600 Yards, near a Mile perpendicular.

The Author has poetically enough described the Noise the huge massy Stones make, which the Country People often throw down here. The Hissing of Spears and Arrows is seldom omitted in Poetry to describe the Terror they bring: he has here improved a similar Noise into a Mark of Fear.

When one's turn'd off, it, as it parts the Air,

A kind of Sighing makes; as if it were

Capable of the trembling Passion Fear;

'Till the first Hit strikes the astonish'd Ear,

Like Thunder under Ground: thence it invades

With louder Thunder those Tartarean Shades,

Which groan forth Horror, at each pond'rous Stroke

Th' unnat'ral Issue gives the Parent Rock:

Whilst, as it strikes, the Sound by Turns we note,

When nearer, flat; sharper, when more remote:

When, after falling long, it seems to hiss,

Like the old Serpent in the dark Abyss.

They tell a dismal Story here of a Traveller, who inquiring his Way to Castleton, or to Buxton, in a dark Night, two Villains offered to guide him; but, intending to rob him, led him to the Edge of this Gulph, and either thrust him in, or made him believe there was a little Gull of Water, and bad him take a large Step, which he did into this Abyss, and into that of Eternity at the same time. One of the Villains, being hanged at Derby some Years after for some other Roguery, confessed this diabolical Action at the Gallows.

It raises an Horror in the Imagination, when one does but look into this frightful Hole; and so I shall leave it with the Words of the forementioned Author, who, supposing it one of the Entrances to the Infernal World, says,

For he, who, standing on the Brink of Hell,

Can carry it so unconcern'd and well,

As to betray no Fear, is certainly

A better Christian, or a worse, than I.

I come now to the magnificent Seat of the Earls and Dukes of Devonshire, called Chatsworth-house.

This glorious Fabrick may be said to have had two or three different Founders, who have all improved upon one another, in the Completion of this great Design.

The House was begun on a much narrower Plan than it now takes up, by Sir William Cavendish of Cavendish in Suffolk, who by Marriage with the Countess Dowager of Shrewsbury, became intitled to a noble Fortune in this Country.

Sir William died, after having done little more than build one End of the Fabrick, and lay out the Plan of the Whole. But his Lady finished it in the magnificent manner which it appeared in, when it was was first ranked among the Wonders of the Peak. And if it deserved to be so ranked then, how much more does it now, with the additional Improvements made by the first Duke of Devonshire!

One Thing is observable, That the very Disadvantages of Situation contribute to the Beauty of the Place, and, by the most exquisite Management, are made subservient to the Builder's Design. On the East Side, not far distant, rises a prodigious high Mountain, which is so thick planted with beautiful Trees, that you only see a rising Wood gradually ascending, as if the Trees crouded one above the other to admire the stately Pile before them.

Upon the Top of this Mountain they dig Millstones; and here begins a vast extended Moor, which for 15 or 16 Miles together due North, has neither Hedge, House, or Tree, but a waste and houling Wilderness, over which, when Strangers travel, 'tis impossible to find their Way without Guides.

Nothing can be more surprising of its Kind, to a Traveller, who comes from the North, when, after a tedious Progress thro' such a dismal Desart, on a sudden the Guide brings him to this Precipice, where he looks down from a comfortless, barren, and, as he thought, endless Moor, into the most delightful Valley, and sees a beautiful Palace, adorn'd with fine Gardens. If Contraries illustrate each other, here they are seen in the strongest Opposition. It is really surprising to think what a Genius it must be, that should lay out so great a Design in such a Place, where the Mountains intercept the Clouds, and threaten, were Earthquakes frequent here, to bury whole Towns, and, what seems equal to a Town, this House, in their Ruins.

On the Plain, which extends from the Top of this Mountain, is a large Body of Water, which takes up near 30 Acres, and, from the Ascents round it, receives, as into a Cistern, all the Water that falls; which, thro' Pipes, supplies the Cascades, Waterworks, Ponds, and Canals, in the Gardens.

Before the West Front of the House, which is the most beautiful, and where the first Foundress built a very august Portal, runs the River Derwent, which, tho' not many Miles here from its Source, yet is a rapid River, when, by hasty Rains, or the melting of Snows, the Hills pour down their Waters into its Chanel; for the Current, by reason of its many contracted Passages among the Rocks, (Pieces of which, of an incredible Bulk, come sometimes rolling down its Stream) on the least Motion of its Waters, above their ordinary Height, roars like the Breaches on the Shores of the Sea.

Over this River is a stately Stone Bridge, with an antient Tower upon it, and in an Island in the River an antient Fabrick all of Stone, and built like a Castle; which are the Works of the said Foundress, and shew the Greatness of the original Design; but are all, except the Bridge, eclipsed, as it were, by the modern Glories of the late Edifice.

The Front to the Garden is a regular Piece of Architecture. The Frize under the Cornice has the Motto of the Family upon it in gilt Letters, so large as to take up the whole Front, tho' the Words are these two, CAVENDO TVTVS; which is no less applicable to the Situation of the House, than the Name of the Family.

The Sashes of the second Story, we were told, are 17 Feet high, of polished Looking-glass, two Feet wide; and the Wood-work double-gilt.

Under this Front lie the Gardens exquisitely fine; and, to make a clear Vista or Prospect beyond into the flat Country, towards Hardwick, another Seat of the same Owner, the Duke (to whom those Things which others thought impossible, were practicable) removed a great Mountain that stood in the Way, and which interrupted the Prospect.

In the usual Approach to this noble Fabrick, it presents itself thus: First, the River, which in calm Weather glides gently by; then a venerable Walk of Trees, where the famous Hobbes used often to contemplate; a noble Piece of Iron-work Gates and Balusters, expose the Front of the House and Court, terminated at the Corners next the Road with two large Stone Pedestals of Attick Work, curiously adorned with Trophies of War, and Utensils of all the Sciences, in Basso Relievo. This Part of the Building is Ionick, the Whole being a Square of a single Order, but every Side of a different Model: a Court in the Middle with a Piazza of Dorick Columns of one Stone each, overlaid with prodigious Architraves. The Stone is of an excellent Sort, veined like Marble, hewn out of the neighbouring Quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent Hill. In the Ante-room to the Hall are flat Stones of 14 Feet square, laid upon the Heads of Four Pillars, and so throughout. In the Hall-stairs the Landing-steps are of the same Dimensions; the Doors, Chimneys, Window-cases, Stairs, &c. all of Marble; the Ceilings and Walls of all the Apartments charged with rare Painting of Varrio, and other famous Hands; the Bath-room, all of Marble curiously wrought.

The Chapel is a most ravishing Place; the Altarend and Floor, Marble; the Seats and Gallery, Cedar; the rest of the Wall and Ceiling, painted.

The Gardens abound with Green-houses, Summer-houses, Walks, Wildernesses, Orangeries, with all the proper Furniture of Statues, Urns, Greens, &c. with Canals, Basons, and Water-works of various Forms and Contrivance; as Sea-horses, Drakes, Dolphins, and other Fountains, that throw up the Water. An artificial Willow-tree of Copper spouts dropping Water from every Leaf. A wonderful Cascade, where from a neat House of Stone, like a Temple, out of the Mouths of Beasts, Pipes, Urns, &c. a whole River descends, the Slope of a Hill a Quarter of a Mile in Length, over Steps, with a terrible Noise, and broken Appearance, till it is lost under-ground. Beyond the Garden, upon the Hills, is a Park, and that over-look'd by a very high and rocky Mountain. Here are some Statues, and other Antiquities.

I should never have done, were I to say all that might be said of this august Palace. But two historical Circumstances in its Honour must not be forgotten, viz. That Mary, Queen of Scots, whom we had occasion to mention as a Visitant of the Peak, was for 17 Years in Custody in this House, under the Care of the celebrated Foundress of it. In Memory of this Royal Captive, the new Lodgings, that are built instead of the old, are still called the Queen's of Scots Apartment. Happy for her, could she have been allow'd to have paid the same fine Compliment to the Owner of it, which the Count de Tallard did, and is our other historical Circumstance, when he had been entertained for a few Days by the late Duke of Devonshire: When I return, said he, into my own Country, and reckon up the Days of my Captivity, I shall leave out those I spent at Chatsworth.

I will close all I have to say of this famous Palace, as I may call it, with the following brief Extract from the Letter of an ingenious Gentleman to his Friend:
"This Place, says he, exceeds all the high Ideas and Descriptions that were ever given me of it. The House yields to nothing in Europe; it is prodigiously great in every Part. I never saw such a Number of fine Rooms; but the Situation surpasses all. Nature has laid herself out, in amazing Variety of Greatness and Prospects; a fine River below, with fine Banks, some naked and rocky, others declining and woody, many smooth, and proper for Walking; large Groves and Fishponds, and Canals between the River and the House, which rises proudly upon several Terraces, and has behind it a great Lawn, intermixed with Plantations, and great Walks, all rising one above another, at first gently, afterwards over vast Precipices, to the Top of a high Mountain, which was all covered upon the Brows with high Trees, two or three Miles on either Side; then breaks into a thousand Vales, and green Hills; then, resuming its former Height and Bulk, proceeds again a mighty Mountain, covered with Rocks and Heath; its Sides in many Places adorned with Wood; the Whole yielding a most extensive Prospect of many Miles. Every body has heard of the great Cascade."

There are likewise other Curiosities in the Peak which I need but just mention; as the Tottering Stones at Byrch Over, standing upon a hard Rock, one of them said to be four Yards high, 12 round, and yet rests upon a Point so equally poised, that it may be moved with a Finger; the Roman Causeway, called Bath-gate; the several Minerals found in the Hills, and in the Lead Mines, as Black Lead, Stibium, or Antimony, and Crystal.

Bakewell is the best Town in the North-west Side of the Peak: it lies on the Banks of the Wye, and has a good Market; the Parish is exempt from Episcopal Jurisdiction. Near this the Duke of Rutland has a very noble Palace, called Haddon, now intirely uninhabited. It was antiently the Seat of the Vernons, some of whom were Members of Parliament for this County as early as Edward III. Sir George Vernon, in Queen Elizabeth's Time, was styled King of the Peak, and his Daughter being married to Thomas, the Son of the first Earl of Rutland, it came into the Family of the Manners.

The extended Angle of this County, which runs a great way North-west by Chappel in the Frith, (which was formerly a Market-town) and which they call High Peak, is perhaps the most desolate, wild, and abandoned Country in Great Britain. The Mountains of the Peak, of which I have been speaking, seem to be but the Beginning of Wonders to this Part of the Country; the Tops of whose Hills seem to be as much above the Clouds, as the Clouds are above the ordinary Hills.

Nor is this all; the Countenance of these Mountains is such, that they have no Bounds to them but the Sea; they run on in a continued Ridge from one to another, even to the Highlands in Scotland; so that they may be said to divide Britain, as the Apennine Mountains divide Italy. Thus joining to Blackstone Edge, they divide Yorkshire from Lancashire, and going on North, divide the Bishoprick of Durham from Westmorland, and so on. All the Rivers in the North of England take their Rise from them; those on the East Side run into the German Ocean, those on the West Side into the Irish: for instance, the Dove and the Derwent rise both at the South End of them, and come away South to the Trent; but all the Rivers afterwards run, as above, East or West; and first, the Mersee rises on the West Side, and the Dun on the East; the first runs to Warrington; and into the Sea at Liverpoole; the other to Doncaster, and into the Sea at Humber. I shall confirm this Observation as I go on; for to give an Account of Rivers is the best Guide to the Geography of a Country. But to return to my Progress:

We went next to Chesterfield, a handsome populous Town, situate between Rivulets, on the South Side of a Hill, North-east from Chatsworth, well built and well inhabited, notwithstanding it stands in the Extremity of this rocky Country; for being on the North Side of the County next to Yorkshire, it leads into the Hundred of Scarsdale, which is a rich fertile Part of the Country, tho' surrounded with barren Moors and Mountains, for such the Name Scarsdale signifies. It is a Mayor-town of great Antiquity, and was made a free Borough by King John. It is now a Place of considerable Merchandice and Dealings in Lead, Grocery, Mercery, Melting of Barley, Tanning, Stockens, Blankets, Bedding, &c. in which they have great Intercourse to and with Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, and London; also to and with the Towns and Places of Bakewell, Tiddeswell, Wirksworth, Ashbourne, the Peak, and West of Derbyshire; with Chester, Manchester, Liverpoole, &c. It has a fair Church. The Spire of its Steeple, being Timber covered with Lead, is warped all awry. It has also a Free-school, and a new large Market-place, which is well supply'd with Lead, and with the Commodities above-mention'd.

Dornfield is a small Market-town, noted only for its high Situation, just on the Edge of the Peak.

We are now entered into the County of York, which is of larger Extent than any two Counties in England joined together, being in Compass 360 Miles. Its Figure is a large Square, and is adequate to the Dukedom of Wirtemburgh in Germany, and contains more Ground than all the Seven United Provinces. I was at first puzzled which way to direct my Course in this large County; but at last resolved to strike thro' the Middle of the County, and along the North-east Part of the West Riding, up as far as Rippon, which is about the Centre of the County.

This great County is divided into Three Ridings, North, East, and West Riding. This last, which I chuse first to speak of, is much the largest and most populous, and has in it the greatest Number of Towns, as well as the most considerable, and likewise the best Manufactures, and consequently the greatest Share of Riches.

Sheffield, situated on a rising Ground, is the first Town we came to from Derbyshire. It is famous for Whittle-making, Cutlery Wares and Iron-work, there being a great many good Iron Mines about it, and likewise some of Alum. The Town is very antient, and has been always considerable, tho' no Corporation; and that it was noted, in Chaucer's Time, for the same Trade, appears by those Lines of his:

— A Miller —

With a rizzled Beard, and a hooked Nose,

And a Sheffield Whittle in his Hose.

The Town is very populous and large, and the Houses built with Stone, but look dark and black, by the continued Smoke of the Forges, which are always at Work; and the Streets are narrow. Here were set up the first Mills for turning Grind-stones in England.

The Church is very large and spacious, in the Form of a Cross, and has a fine high Spire.

Sheffield is reputed to excel Birmingham in Cutlery Wares and Files, and Birmingham is allow'd to out-do Sheffield in Locks, Hinges, Nails, and polish'd Steel.

The Cutlers here are incorporated by the Style of The Cutlers of Hallamshire, and have many Privileges. They are said to be 600 in Number, and are called Master-cutlers; each of whom gives a particular Stamp to his Wares. The Corporation chuse a Master and other Officers yearly; and it is judged, that no less than 40000 are imploy'd in the Irontrade in Sheffield, and the adjacent Tract of Land called Hallamshire.

From hence it will be judged, that the said Parish-church, the only one in this populous Town, was not able to contain one half of the People of Sheffield; which induced one Mr. Robert Downes, Goldsmith of this Town, to contribute a large Sum, and to procure other Sums by Contributions, for erecting a Chapel of Ease; and accordingly he got Leave, Anno 1719, from William Archbishop of York, to proceed in so good a Work, and built a handsome and stately Structure on a Piece of Ground called Shaw-close, purchased by the said Mr. Downes, who also settled to the Value of 30l. a Year for ever, on a Preacher, to be elected and nominated by him, his Heirs and Assigns.

But tho' the Building was thus finished, and Mr. Downes had actually nominated to it, his Nephew Joseph Downes, yet the Nomination being contested by the Patrons of the Vicarage of Sheffield, and the Vicar also, it remained unconsecrated till the Year 1739; when the Parties differing, coming to an Agreement, an Act of Parliament passed, confirming the same; and it is now consecrated by the Name of The Chapel of St. Paul in the Town of Sheffield.

Formerly here was a very fine Castle, with a noble Mansion-house, the Seat of the Dukes of Norfolk; but it is now all demolished and decayed, tho' the Manor remains still in the Family.

In the great Church, in this Town, are several very antient Monuments of the Family of Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury, who once had great Possessions in this and the next County.

In particular, George, the first Earl of Shrewsbury, who died 1531. George the second, Grandson to the first, under whose Care the Queen of Scots was here in Custody for 16 Years, who died 1590, and Gilbert his Son, who founded the stately Hospital in this Town, all lie buried here.

The Gift of this Hospital is perpetuated in the following Inscription: ‘ The Hospital of the Right Honourable GILBERT Earl of Shrewsbury, erected and settled by the Right Honourable HENRY Earl of Norwich, Earl Marshal of ENGLAND, great Grandson of the said Earl, in pursuance of his last Will and Testament, Anno 1673.’

Here is a fine Engine for raising Water to supply the Town. Here is also a very large and strong Bridge over the Dun, as there is another at Rotherham, a Market-town Six Miles lower. Of late several Acts of Parliament have passed to make this River further navigable to different Places, which will greatly increase the Trade of those Parts.

It is in the Park here, that the great Oak-tree grew formerly, of which Mr. Evelyn gives a long Account in his Book of Forest-trees. And what became of the Chesnut-tree near Aderclift, mention'd by Camden's Continuator, the Body of which could hardly be fathomed by three Men, I could hear no Account of.

The Remains of the Roman Fortification between Sheffield and Rotherham are still to be seen, and probably will continue to the End of Time.

Here is also the famous Trench, by some called Devil's Bank, other Danes Bank; which is said to run Five Miles in Length, and in some Places is called Kemp Bank, in others Temple's Bank.

Rotherham is the next Market-town North-east of Sheffield. It is noted for its fine Stone Bridge over the Dun, which is here increased by the River Rother, from whence the Town, no doubt, took its Name.

The Church is built in the Form of a Cathedral, and is a fair Stone Building, with a handsome Spire Steeple.

From Rotherham we turned North-west to Wentworth, on purpose to see the old Seat of the Wentworths, who have flourished here ever since the Conquest, and been possessed of the Estate of Woodhouse from the Time of Henry III. Among the several noble Persons of this Family, who have resided here, was the great Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, beheaded in the Time of King Charles I. whose Body lies buried in this Church. His Honours were extinct in his Son; but his Seat is still in the Possession of Sir Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Malton, his Great Grandson, who has made such Improvements to it, that it is inferior to few in Great Britain. It is situated on the Side of a Hill, defended from the North and West, but opens to the South and East, towards which Quarters it commands a very extensive Prospect over a rich and beautiful Country, which belongs to the Family.

The Gardens are large, and adorn'd with Obelisks, Statues, &c. having a Green-house and Bathing-room. On one Side there is an uninterrupted View into the Park and Neighbourhood. Here are two Beauties rarely to be met with any-where else, a Grove of old Fir-trees, and a Mount of above 100 Feet high perpendicularly measured. The Circumference of the Parks is about eight Miles, and is beautified with Fish-ponds, Woods of Timber of an uncommon Size, and with Plantations innumerable. The Turf is of a fine Verdure, and the Soil fruitful.

The House, with the Additions lately made, and now carrying on, will extend 200 Yards in Front, and is built in Imitation of Wanstead in Essex, the Seat of Earl Tilney. And an Improvement has been added to the Park and Fish-ponds, one whereof, consisting of 14 Acres of Ground, receives a small Brook, which being conducted through a winding Cut, for 600 Yards, falling down six Steps, is brought by a Canal of 300 Yards into the Lake, and so affords a pretty Prospect of Water for near a Mile together.

From hence we went to see Stamborough, a fine Seat now belonging to the Earl of Strafford; the late Earl built the House here, which has an exceeding noble Front, and adorn'd it with large Plantations, fine Water-works, and Gardens; to which if we add the Vista's, Walks, and Woods, which are large and numerous, it may vie with most Seats in Great Britain for Elegancy.

We afterwards steer'd our Course back again to Rotherham, and leaving that Town, came to Sandbeck, a fine Seat of the Earl of Scarborough; which, considering the beautiful Lawn before the House, and the Extent of the adjoining Woods, remarkable for the Improvements of Art, as well as for the Bigness and flourishing State of the Trees, may vie with most Seats, in respect to Situation.

From hence we pursued a By-track, in order to see a famous Yew-tree, which stands in a Field called Cuckolds Haven, and is a very surprising Production of Nature, and which I shall attempt to describe: It has a strait smooth Stem, about 10 Feet high, from which the Branches extend in Circles above each other, like the Divisions of a Pineapple, and of that Shape, and of equal Exactness. The Figure of the Tree is much more beautiful than could have been made by Art of Man. The Branches from Top to Bottom are so thick, that a Bird can scarce creep through them in any Part; and every Shoot and Fibre put out the same Length each Year, and are of so bright and pleasant a Green in all Seasons, that at some Distance the Cloathing of the Tree appears like Velvet. There is a Hedge planted round it for a Fence, and many People have thought it worth their while to ride 20 Miles to view it.

Upon Sight of this Curiosity, and Thousands of other Trees of the same Species in its Neighbourhood, I could not but lament, that Avarice should so far prevail, especially with Gentlemen, as to consent to grant what I call a dead Warrant for the selling of many noble stately ones, in the Height of their Glory, which for some Hundred of Years had been an Ornament to the Places where they grew, when perhaps one of the largest of them, which in a Garden or Park would be esteemed above any Price, is sold for no more than 20 or 30 Shillings, to make Naves for Wheels.

Afterwards we struck into a By-road, which brought us to the Ruins of Roch or Rock Abby, hid by a steep woody Cliff, towards the South, and by large Rocks every other Way, except Eastward. One Side of the Nef of this Building, from North to South, under the middle Tower, and some odd Pillars and Arches, are all that is now left, great Part having been carried away, from time to time, to repair adjacent Churches, or build Gentlemens Seats, tho' now Care is taken, by the present Earl of Scarborough, to preserve what remains. These Ruins, among which large Trees are now grown up, and the contiguous Borders, make a Picture inexpressibly charming, especially when viewed with the Lights and Shadows they receive from a Western Sun; and its recluse Situation, still from every Noise, except the Murmur of a limpid Rivulet, together with the Fragments of sepulchral Monuments, and the gloomy Shades of those venerable Greens, Ivy, and Yew, which creep up, and luxuriantly branch out and mix with the beautiful Whiteness of the Rocks, give such a Solemnity to this Scene, as demands a serious Reverence from the Beholder, and inspires a contemplative Melancholy, oftentimes pleasing as well as proper to indulge.

The Stone, of which this Abbey is built, was dug out of the famous Quarry near adjoining, and so well known to Masons by the Name of Roch Abbeystone, which for Whiteness and Beauty is not to be equalled.

Another thing worthy of Notice in this Neighbourhood, is the Tower and Spire of the Church Laughton, which for a Delicacy and Justness of Proportion, is not excelled by any other Gothi•… Piece of the kind. How it happened, that so elegant and ornamental a Structure, superior by far to all others round it, was bestow'd upon a Village-church, is matter of some Wonder.

The Building stands upon a very high Hill, which appears at Distance like that at Harrow in the County of Middlesex. The Height of the Steeple to the Weather-cock is 195 Feet, and by its Situation the most conspicuous every way, of any perhaps in the whole Kingdom, being seen from many Places 40, 50, and 60 Miles. It has a peculiar Beauty, when view'd in the diagonal Line, the Pinacles at the Corners of the Tower being join'd by Arches to the Spire, as are others above them, which break its Out-lines, and give, at the same time, a beautiful Diminution; but Time will not permit it to stand much longer without considerable Repairs.

The Duke of Leeds, whose Seat at Kiveton is at about three Miles Distance, has cut a Vista through the Woods of his Park, to take this Steeple into his View.

About two Miles from Laughton we saw the said Seat of Kiveton: It is an elegant House, and the Apartments and Offices are disposed with great Conveniency. The Situation is in a wholsome Air, and commands fine Prospects. Here are pleasant Gardens, and a beautiful Park.

We omitted visiting many other Places in these Parts, which, had Time allowed, would have answer'd the Trouble of riding uneven Roads, which are tiresome hereabouts, and hastened to reach Tickhill, which is a small Market-town, and very antient.

Here is an old Castle, which is large, but surrounded with a single Wall only, and an huge Mount, with a round Tower on the Top of it. it was antiently of such Dignity, that all the Manors round about it, belonging to it, were styled The Honour of Tickhill. The Church in this Town is very large, and a handsome Building.

We now return'd once more to Rotherham, and pursued our Course higher up on the River Dun, to Coningsborough Castle, called in British Caer Conan, situate on a Rock, where Matthew of Westminster says, That Aurelius Ambrosius, a British Prince, vanquish'd Hengist, the Saxon General, and took him Prisoner, where, in Revenge of his barbarous Murder of the British Nobility in cold Blood, near Stonehenge in Wiltshire, he cut off his Head.

Before the Gate is an Agger, said to be the Burying-place of Hengist. It is not only famous for its Antiquity, but its Situation too, upon a pleasant Ascent, having six large Market-towns, 120 Villages, many large Woods of Oak, some containing 100 Acres, and others beautifully cut through into Walks, six Iron Furnaces, many Mines of Coal and Iron, Quarries of Stone for Building, nine large Stone Bridges, 40 Water-mills, six Seats of Noblemen, 60 of Gentlemen, 15 Parks, and two navigable Rivers. Upon the Dun also, a little Way from Coningsborough, is a Place called Temple-brough, a Roman Fortification, of which the North-east Corner is wash'd away by the River. The Area is about 200 Paces long, besides the Agger; and on the Outside of it is a large Trench, 37 Paces deep; on the other Side of it is another Trench, cover'd with large Trees.

Travelling North-east from hence, we came to Bantry, which stands just at the Entrance from Nottinghamshire, into the West-riding, a Town blessed with two great Conveniencies, which contribute to its Support, and make it a very well-frequented Place.

- 1. That it stands upon the great Post-road from London to Scotland; which makes it full of very good Inns and Houses of Entertainment.

- 2. That the little, but pleasant River Idle runs by it, which, contrary to the Import of its Name, is a full and quick, tho' not rapid and unsafe Stream, with a deep Chanel, which carries Lighters and flat-bottom'd Vessels into the Trent, that comes within seven Miles of it, to a Place called Stockwith, from thence to Burton, and from thence, if the Weather be fair, to Hull; if not, 'tis sufficient to go to Stockwith, where Vessels of 200 Tons Burden may come up laden to the Town.

By this Navigation Bantry becomes the Centre of all the Exportation of this Part of the Country, especially for heavy Goods, which are brought down hither from all the adjacent Countries, such as Lead, Mill-stones and Grind-stones from Derbyshire, wrought Iron and edged Tools of all Sorts, from the Forges at Sheffield, and from the adjacent Country called Hallamshire.

From hence to Doncaster is a pleasant Road, that never wants Repair, which is something extraordinary in any Part of this lower Side of the Country.

Doncaster (so called from the River on which it stands, and the Castle which is now ruined) is a noble, large, spacious Town, and exceeding populous, govern'd by a Mayor, and carrying on a great Manufacture, principally for Stockens, Gloves, and knit Waistcoats; and as it stands upon the great Northern Post-road, is full of good Inns. There is a remarkable old Column called a Cross, at the End of the Town, with a Norman Inscription upon it.

Here we saw the first Remains of the great Roman Highway, which, tho' we could not perceive before, were eminent and remarkable just at the Entrance into the Town, and soon after appeared in many Places. Here are also two strong Stone Bridges over the Dun, besides a long Causeway beyond them, the Waters of the River being dangerous to Passengers, when they swell over its Banks, as is sometimes the Case.

This Town, Mr. Camden says, "was burnt intirely to the Ground, Anno 759; and was hardly recovered in his Time." But it now looks more decayed by Time than Accident, and the Houses, which seem ready to fall, might rise again to more Advantage after another Conflagration.

It has but one Church, which is large, and its Tower of admirable Work. There is a remarkable Epitaph on one Robert Byrk, a famous Man of Doncaster, who gave a Place, called Rossington Wood, to the Poor.

Howe, Howe, who's here?

I, Robin, of Doncastere,

And Margaret my Fere.

That I spent, that I had;

That I gave, that I have;

That I left, that I lost.

A. D. 1597.

Quoth Robertus Byrks, who in this World did reign

Threescore Years and seven, but liv'd not ane.

Here lies also, under a plain Grave-stone in the Church, the Body of one Thomas Ellis, memorable for having been five times Mayor of the Town, for founding an Hospital there, called St. Thomas's the Apostle, and endowing it plentifully.

We ought not to forget, that the celebrated Sailor, Sir Martin Frobisher, was born in this Town. He was the first Englishman, who, in the Reign of Q. Elizabeth, discover'd the North Passage to China and Cathai, and found some Streights, which he called after his own Name, and a Foreland after the Queen's. At his first Voyage, one of the Company brought back some black Stones, out of which the Refiners, it is said, extracted Gold; which encouraged him to load his Ship with them afterwards: but they were then found to be fit for nothing, but to mend the Highways. He signalized himself against the Spanish Armada; and received his Death Wound by a Shot at Brest in Britany: the Surgeon, having extracted the Bullet, left the Wadding behind; by which means the Wound mortified, and he died as soon as he had brought back the Fleet to Plymouth.

We set forward directly West, and came to Barnesley, a little Market-town, well-built of Stone, where a Manufacture, and Iron and Steel Work, flourishes. It has a smoaky Aspect, and is called Black-Barnesley; but whether on that Account, or from the Moors, which look all black, like Bagshot Heath, I know not.

After we had passed these Moors, we came thro' a most rich, pleasant and populous Country to Wakefield.

Wakefield is a large Town, situate upon the River Calder, (which was made navigable in the Year 1698) since which Time the Town has increased considerably in Riches, and Number of Inhabitants. There is a handsome Stone Bridge over the River, upon which stands a Chapel, erected by King Edward IV. in Memory of his Father Richard, Duke of York, who was slain near this Place, as I shall mention by-and-by. The Chapel is 10 Yards long, and six broad; and tho' very much defaced by Time, it appears to have been wrought in a very curious manner. A little above the Bridge is a Wash or Dam, over which the Water rolling, forms an admirable Cascade of a great Length.

This Town consists of three great Streets, which meet in a Centre near the Church, where there might be formed a very spacious Market-place, but by reason of the great Number of Inhabitants it is so crouded with Buildings, that there is only a small Area round the Market-cross, which is a very elegant Building, being an open Colonnade of the Dorick Order, supporting a Dome, to which you ascend by an open circular Pair of Stairs, in the Centre of the Building. This brings you to a Room, which receives Light from a Turret on the Top, and may be called the Town-hall; for here they transact all their publick Business.

The Church is a very large and lofty Gothick Building, the Body of which was repaired in the Year 1724, but the Spire (which is one of the highest in the County) remains in the same State it was.

In this Town was born John Green, the famous Pinder, who fought Robin Hood so manfully.

From the Bridge you have an agreeable View to the South-east, where, by the Side of the River, rises a Hill, covered with Wood, at about a Mile Distance. This joins to an open Moor or Common called Heath-moor, upon which are several Gentlemens Seats, very pleasantly situated.

South between Wakefield and a Village called Sand••…, they shewed us a small square Piece of Ground, which was fenced off by itself; and on which, before the late Civil War, stood a large Stone Cross, just upon the Spot where the Duke of York, fighting desperately, and refusing to yield, tho' surrounded with Enemies, was killed. But tho' Religion has suffered the Cross to fall, the Chapel I mentioned on the Bridge at Wakefield, the other Monument of this Battle, is still preserved by being made use of for Civil Affairs. Some say there are more People here, than in the City of York, and yet it is no Corporation Town.

Here is a Market every Friday for Woollen Cloths, after the manner of that at Leeds, tho' not so great; yet as all the Clothing Trade is prodigiously increased, and still increasing in this County, so this M••ket flourishes with the rest.

I cannot here pass by my former Observation, that all the great Rivers take their Beginning in the Mountains of Blackstone Edge and High Peak, which, as I have said, part the Counties of Lancaster and York, and that these Rivers all take their Course due East. The Dun is the first; the next is the Calder, now becoming a very large River at Wakefield; and the Aire is the next, which rises at the Foot of the Mountain Penigent, on the Edge of Lancashire, of which 'tis said proverbially:

Pendle-Hill and Penigent

Are the highest Hills between Scotland and Trent.

As the Calder runs by Halifax, Huthersfield, and thro' Wakefield; so the Aire runs by Skipton, Bradford, and thro' Leeds, and then both join at Castleford Bridge, near Pontefract, three Miles from Bradford, and in an united Stream form that Navigation from this trading Part of Yorkshire to Hull, which is of so much Advantage to the whole County.

I went to see the antient Town of Pontefract, with the Castle, where so much Blood has been spilt, in different Ages; for here Henry, the great Earl of Lancaster, who was Lord of the Castle, and whose Ancestors had beautified, inlarged, and fortified it, was beheaded by his Nephew, King Edward II. with three or four more of the English Barons. Here Richard II. was murder'd, and, if History may be credited, in a most cruel manner; and here Antony Earl of Rivers, and Sir Richard Gray, the first Uncle, and the other Brother-in-law to King Edward V. were beheaded by King Richard III. In the late Civil Wars, a small Party of brave Fellows took this Castle by Surprize, for the King, and desperately defended it to the last Extremity; but being at length obliged to yield, five of them attempted to break thro' the Besiegers Camp, three of whom perished in the Attempt.

The Town is large and well built, but much smaller than it has been. The Castle lies in its Ruins, though not demolished. It is a Corporation by Prescription, and the Mayor and 12 Aldermen are always Justices of the Peace. 'Tis said, that antiently none could be arrested at the Market-cross, call'd Oswald's Cross, and a free Way leading to the Cross, with about two Yards around it was kept unpav'd in Memory of that Privilege. But in the Year 1735, the old Cross was pulled down, and a handsome Dome, supported by a Colonnade of Dorick Pillars, (the Charge whereof was defrayed by a Legacy left by one Dupere, an Inhabitant of the Town) was erected for that Purpose.

The Ruins of the Castle shew it to have been a noble Pile. A round Tower, yet standing, is intire, in or near which, the Tradition is, King Richard II. was slain. Adjoining to this Tower are Windingstairs, which descend into several Vaults, and subterraneous Passages.

The Parish Church, which stands near the Castle, and was prodigiously large, received so much Damage in the late Civil Wars, that no more than the Shell is now left standing. It is a handsome Gothick Building, in the Form of a Cross, with a Tower in the middle, which is in good Proportion, and was formerly crown'd with a magnificent Lantern, enriched with carved Work; but it received such Damage from a Cannon Shot, during the Siege of the Castle, that it was soon after blown down; and upon the Surrender of the Castle, the Parliament did (by Resolution of the House, of the 27th of March, 1649) grant One thousand Pounds, to be raised by Sale of the Materials of the said Castle, to the Town of Pontefract, towards the repairing of their Place of publick Worship, and re-edifying an Habitation for a Minister. Part of this Grant might be applied in erecting a plain Octagon Building upon the Tower, which finishes the Whole, in a manner not disagreeable, tho' far inferior to the former. In the North west Corner of this Tower, are two circular Flights of Stairs, winding about the same Centre, with separate Entrances below, and distinct Landings above. The Inhabitants of the Town still continue to bury in this Church-yard, but Divine Service is perform'd in a Chapel adjoining to the Market-place, which is very spacious.

At the Bottom of the Market-place stands the Town-hall.

Near the Road is a noble Seat, which belonged to the late Lord Bingley. 'Tis a new-built, beautiful House, with curious Gardens, tho' not very large.

At Pontefract the great Roman Highway, which I mentioned at Doncaster, (and is visible from thence hither in several Places, tho' not in the open Road) is plain to be discern'd; and from Castleford Bridge, which crosses over the united Rivers of Aire and Calder, it goes on to Aberforth, and so thro' Tadcaster to York.

In some Places, where this Causeway is broken up, the Courses appear to be of different Materials, the Bottom of Clay, upon that is Chalk, then Gravel, and upon the Gravel is Stone, and then Gravel upon that, and so other kinds of Earth, where the first was not to be had.

In several Places between this Bridge and Aberforth, the Causeway being disused for the common Road, it appears as intire as at its first making, tho' a Work undoubtedly of 15 or 1600 Years old. I take notice of it here, because I have not seen any thing like it in any other Place of England.

Castleford is a Village that stands near the Confluence of the two Rivers above, and was formerly a Place of great Consideration, insomuch that some Authors call it a City. There have been dug up here divers Pieces of Roman Coin.

Aberforth is a small Market-town, a few Miles North-east of Pontefract, and is noted for Pin-making only.

From Ferry-bridge, within a Mile of Pontefract, extends a large Stone Causeway, about a Mile in Length, to a Village called Brotherton, where Margaret, Wife of King Edward I. was forced to take up as she was hunting, and was delivered of a Son, called from the Village Thomas of Brotherton. This Son was afterwards made Earl of Norfolk, and Marshal of England. Not far from the Church is a Piece of Ground of 20 Acres, surrounded with a Trench and a Wall, where, as Tradition informs us, stood the House in which the Queen was delivered, and the Tenants are obliged by Tenure to keep it surrounded with a Wall of Stone.

Brotherton is now noted for burning Lime-stone, which is brought from Tadcaster in great Quantities, and carrying and dispersing it into the Southern Parts, which turns to very good Account, and imploys a great many Hands.

A little to the South of this Village, the great Road divides in two Parts: one goes on to the Right to York, and the other thro' Aberforth and Wetherby, over Braham-moor, to Scotland.

At Braham-moor a Battle was fought between the Royalists and General Fairfax, where he was worsted and wounded, but made so Soldier-like a Retreat, that it gained him as great a Reputation as a Victory would have done.

But we followed neither of these two Roads, leaving the Towns that way for the Entertainment of another Journey; so we pass'd directly West along the Banks of the Aire to Leeds, which is a large, wealthy and populous Town, standing on the North Side of the River Aire, with large Suburbs on the South Side, and both joined by a stately, strong Stone Bridge, so large, and so wide, that formerly the Cloth-market was kept upon it; and therefore the Refreshment given the Clothiers by the Inn-keepers (being a Pot of Ale, a Noggin of Pottage, and a Trencher of broil'd or roast Beef, for Two-pence) is called the Brigg-shot to this Day.

The Increase of the Manufactures, and of the Trade, soon made the Market too great to be confined to the Brigg, so that it is now kept in the High Street, beginning from the Bridge, and runing up North almost to the Market-house, where the ordinary Market for Provisions begins; which also is the greatest of its kind in all the North of England. You may judge of the Plenty of it, when 500 Loads of Apples have been numbered by the Mayor's Officers in a Day.

But the Cloth Market is chiefly to be admired as a Prodigy of its Kind, and perhaps not to be equalled in the World. The Market for Serges at Exeter is indeed a wonderful Thing, and the Money returned very great; but it is there but once a Week, whereas here it is every Tuesday and Saturday.

Early in the Morning, Tressels are placed in two Rows in the Street, sometimes two Rows on a Side, cross which Boards are laid, which make a kind of temporary Counter on either Side, from one End of the Street to the other.

The Clothiers come early in the Morning with their Cloth; and as few bring more than one Piece, the Market-days being so frequent, they goin to the Inns and Publick-houses with it, and there set it down.

At about Six o'Clock in the Summer, and about Seven in the Winter, the Clothiers being all come by that Time, the Market Bell at the old Chapel by the Bridge rings; upon which it would surprise a Stranger to see in how few Minutes, without Hurry, Noise, or the least Disorder, the whole Market is filled, and all the Boards upon the Tressels covered with Cloth, as close to one another as the Pieces can lie longways, each Proprietor standing behind his own Piece, who form a Mercantile Regiment, as it were, drawn up in a double Line, in as great Order as a Military one.

As soon as the Bell has done Ringing, the Factors and Buyers of all Sorts enter the Market, and walk up and down between the Rows, as their Occasions direct. Some of them have their foreign Letters of Orders, with Patterns sealed on them, in their Hands; the Colours of which they match, by holding them to the Cloths they think they agree to. When they have pitched upon their Cloth, they lean over to the Clothier, and by a Whisper, in the fewest Words imaginable, the Price is stated; one asks, the other bids; and they agree or disagree in a Moment.

The Reason of this prudent Silence is owing to the Clothiers standing so near to one another; for 'tis not reasonable, that one Trader should know another's Traffick.

If a Merchant has bidden a Clothier a Price, and he will not take it, he may go after him to his House, and tell him he has considered of it, and is willing to let him have it; but they are not to make any new Agreement for it, so as to remove the Market from the Street to the Merchant's House.

The Buyers generally walk up and down twice on each Side of the Rows, and in little more than an Hour all the Business is done. In less than half an Hour you will perceive the Cloth begin to move off, the Clothier taking it up upon his Shoulder to carry it to the Merchant's House. At about half an Hour after Eight the Market Bell rings again, upon which the Buyers immediately disappear, the Cloth is all sold; or if any remains, it is carried back into the Inn. By Nine o'Clock the Boards and Tressels are removed, and the Street left at Liberty for the Market-people of other Professions, the Linen-drapers, Shoe-makers, Hard-ware Men, and the like.

Thus, you see 10 or 20,000l. worth of Cloth, and sometimes much more, bought and sold in little more than an Hour, the Laws of the Market being the most strictly observed, that I ever saw in any Market in England.

If it be asked, How all these Goods at this Place, at Wakefield, and at Halifax, are vended and disposed of? I would observe,

First, That there is a Home-consumption; to supply which, several considerable Traders in Leeds go with Droves of Pack-horses, loaden with those Goods, to all the Fairs and Market-towns almost over the whole Island, not to sell by Retail, but to the Shops by Wholesale; giving large Credit. 'Tis ordinary for one of these Men to carry a thousand Pounds worth of Cloth with him at a Time, and having sold that, to send his Horses back for as much more, and this very often in a Summer; for they travel chiefly at that Season, because of the Badness of the Roads.

There are others, who have Commissions from London to buy, or who give Commissions to Factors and Warehouse-keepers in London to sell for them, who not only supply all the Shop-keepers and Wholesale Men in London, but sell also very great Quantities to the Merchants, as well for Exportation to the English Colonies in America, which take off great Quantities of the coarse Goods, especially New England, New York, Virginia, &c. as also to the Russia Merchants, who send exceeding great Quantities to Petersburg, Riga, Dantzick, Narva, and to Sweden and Pomerania; tho' of late the Manufactures of this kind set up in Prussia, and other Northern Parts of Germany, interfere a little with them.

The third Sorts are such as receive Commissions from abroad, to buy Cloth for the Merchants chiefly in Hamburg, and in Holland, &c. These are not only many in Number, but some of them very considerable in their Dealings, and correspond with the farthest Provinces in Germany.

On account of this Trade it was, that the Rivers Aire and Calder were made navigable, under the Direction of Alderman Pickering, the celebrated Author of the Marrow of Mathematicks, and performed at the Expence of several private Merchants, without calling in the Assistance of the Nobility and Gentry. By this means a Communication was opened from Leeds and Wakefield to York and Hull, so that all the Woollen Manufactures now exported, are carried by Water to Hull, and there shipped for Holland, Bremen, Hamburgh, and the Baltick. And, encouraged by the Success of this Act, in the Session of Parliament Anno 1740. an Act passed for continuing the Navigation of the River Calder from Wakefield to Ealand, and Halifax, which will be a farther Benefit to the Trade of those Parts; and at the same time several other Acts passed for mending of Highways around all these Parts, to Halifax, Ealand, Doncaster, York, &c. which will no less promote the Commerce and Trade of this noble County.

There is another Trade in this Part of the Country, become very considerable since the opening the above Navigation, which is the Carriage of Coals down from Wakefield and Leeds, at both which Places they have inexhaustible Stores. These are carried quite down into the Ouse, and then either go up that River to York, or down to the Humber, where the Trent and Ouse meet together, and which in a few Miles falls into the Sea. In this Passage abundance of large Towns are supplied with Coal, with this Advantage too, that whereas the Newcastle Coals pay four Shillings per Chaldron Duty to the Publick, these, being only River-borne Coal, are exempted, and pay nothing: So that the City of York, which strenuously opposed the first Navigation of these Rivers, in this Particular, as well as in many others, daily experiences the Benefit of it.

I need not add, that by the same Navigation all heavy Goods, imported to Hull, are brought up these Rivers, as well as Goods brought from London, and other Parts of the Kingdom, such as Butter, Cheese, Lead, Iron, Salt, Sugars, Tobacco, Fruit, Spice, Hops, Oil, Wine, Brandy, Spirits, and the like.

The Antiquity of Leeds is very great, being mentioned by Venerable Bede; but it was not incorporated till 2 Car. I. when Sir John Savile (afterwards Lord Savile) was made the first honorary Alderman, in Memory of whom the Arms of the Town are adorned with his Supporters, and those very suitable, being the two Athenian Birds, sacred to that Goddess who was deem'd the Patroness of Spinning and Weaving, as well as Arts in general.

At the West End of the Town formerly stood a Castle, wherein King Richard II. was imprisoned before he was carried to Pontefract. And on the Scite thereof now stands the antient Manor-house, with the Park, &c. lately belonging to Mr. Richard Sy•es. Here are two magnificent Halls, both built about the Year 1714; one for White Cloths, supported by Pillars and Arches, which form a Quadrangle like the Royal Exchange, with a handsome Cupola, and Bell on the Top, to give Notice when the Market for these Sort of Goods begins. The other is the Guild or Moot Hall, the Front of which is built likewise on Arches, with rustick Coins and Tabling; where, in a Nich, is placed a fine Statue of Queen Anne, done by Mr. Carpenter, at the Expence of Alderman Milner.

Here are three Churches. St. Peter's, the Parish Church, is built in the Form of a Cross, with a Tower rising from the Middle, with eight Bells in it. In the Ceiling is the Giving of the Law, finely painted in Fresco by Parmentier, who voluntarily gave this Specimen of his Art, in Gratitude for the Encouragement he had met with here. St. John's was built in 1634, at the sole Expence of Mr. Harrison, who likewise built the Alms-houses adjoining, a Free-school, a Market-cross, and the Street called New-street, the Rents of which he appropriated to pious Uses.

I must not omit the New Chapel, as it is called, erected by the Presbyterians in 1691; which is said to have been the first, as it certainly is the stateliest they have in the North of England.

From Leeds we advanced Northward, and came to Harwood, a pretty little Town on the River Wherfe, over which is a very costly Bridge, and there formerly was a strong Castle. The Church here is remarkable for several things; particularly for the Interrment of Sir William Gascoigne, who had the Courage to commit Prince Henry, afterwards K. Henry V. to the King's Bench, for affronting him while he was in the Seat of Justice, letting him know, that though the Son might bear the Image of the King's Person, the Judge bore that of his Authority.

We passed the Wherfe over a fine Stone Bridge of 11 Arches. The River runs in a Bed of Stone (which makes it look as clear as Rock Water).

The Plenty of Stone in the North is, no doubt, the Reason why there are so many noble Bridges in that Part of England, insomuch that I don't remember to have seen one of Timber from the Trent to the Tweed.

We travelled along the Wherfe into the Dale, that takes its Name from the River, which reaches from York about 20 Miles, enlivened almost all the Way with Gentlemens Seats at a little Distance from each other; and left Ottley on the South-side of the River, a small Market-town, no otherwise of Note than for its Situation, which is under a large craggy Cliff. If Yorkshire owed us any Pleasure for the Fatigues of a former Day, it was abundantly made up to us here; for I cannot but think this one of the most delightful Parts of England, and I have met with Travellers who have compared it to the Plain of Palermo itself. Nor ought you to be surprised to hear some Parts of the North compared with Italy. The Testimony of Bishop Tonstal is well known, who in his Progress to York with King Henry VIII. in the Year 1548, declared, that the Country North of Doncaster, and South of Haslewood, was the richest he had found in his Travels thro' Europe. It would be endless to mention all the Seats we passed; but the Motto, at least, of Mr. Ibbotson's at Denton will naturally engage the Speculation of every Traveller: ‘QVOD NEC IOVIS IRA, NEC IGNIS, NEC POTERIT FERRVM.’

The House, it seems, belonged once to Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament Forces, and was about to be demolished by Prince Rupert; but was happily saved by the Sight of a Picture of one of the General's worthy Ancestors. It was afterwards burnt down by Accident, and rebuilt by the present Possessor; and now, after the Rage of War, and Devastation of Fire, in a Poetical Rant, defies them both.

Knaresborough, known among Foreigners by the Name of the Yorkshire Spaw, stands near Ripley, a Market-town, upon the River Nyd. In the Town, and the Lands adjacent, are no less than four different Mineral Waters. One of the Springs is a petrifying Water, which in a little Cave drops from the Roof of the Cavity, and, as they say, turns Wood into Stone.

The other two Springs are indeed the most valuable Rarities of the kind in England.

The first is the Sweet Spaw, or a Vitriolick Water. It was discovered by one Mr. Slingsby, Anno 1630; and all Physicians acknowlege it to be a very sovereign Medicine in several particular Distempers. See Dr. Leigh's Natural History of Lancashire.

The other is the Stinking Spaw, or, according to the Learned, the Sulphur Well. This Water is clear as Crystal, but so fetid and nauseous to the Smell, that many are obliged to hold their Noses when they drink it; yet it is a valuable Medicine in Scorbutick, Hypochondriack, and especially in Hydropick Distempers.

The People formerly, for many Years, only drank these Waters, but they now make use of them as a Cold Bath; and in this manner they must necessarily be very good for Rheumatick Pains, Paralytick Numbnesses, and many other Distempers.

These Baths were heretofore well frequented, insomuch that I have been told 200l. per Annum Rent has been given for a Cold Bath. But now Scarborough has the Vogue.

At Rippon are two good Stone Bridges, one of which has, I think, thirteen Arches, or more, over the Eure, and is a very stately one. There is another over the same River at Burrowbrigg, four Miles lower than Rippon, which has indeed but four or five Arches, but then these Arches are near 40 Feet wide, and one of the middlemost much more, and are high in proportion; the Ends of the Bridge are likewise continued by high Causeways, built of Stone, to keep the Water in its Course, which however sometimes overflows them.

From these Bridges, as well as that above-mentioned at Harwood, it may be observed, that however low these Waters are in the Summer, they are high and furious enough in the Winter; and yet the River Aire, tho' its Source is in the same Ridge of Mountains as the other, is gentle and mild in its Stream, whereas the others are raging and furious. The only Reasons I can give for it, are, that this River runs in a thousand Windings and Turnings more than any other in these Parts, insomuch that, as Camden expresses it, near its Head in Craven it seems doubtful whether it should run forward to the Sea, or return to its Spring; and from Skipton to Gargrave it is observed to be passed over eight times within the Compass of three Miles. The next Reason is, that after it has descended from the Mountains it has a deeper Chanel.

Rippon, the Isurium of the Romans, is a very neat, pleasant, well-built Town; and an antient Corporation: it has not only an agreeable Situation on a rising Ground between two Rivers, but the Buildings are good likewise, particularly the Market-place, which is accounted the finest and most beautiful Square of its kind in England.

In the middle of it stands a curious Obelisk, built by Mr. Aislaby, whose Seat at Studley is about a Mile distant. The Town is govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen.

Here is a large Collegiate Church, and tho' but a Deanry in the Diocese of York, yet it is a very handsome, antient, and venerable Pile, and shews itself a great way in the Country. Mr. Camden says, Rippon owes its Greatness to Religion. And that here was a famous Monastery built by Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, in the first Ages of Christianity in this Island, is certain; but this pious Gift of the Bishop was lost some Years after; for the Danes over-running Yorkshire, rifled and burnt it to the Ground, together with the whole Town of Rippon. It afterwards flourished again as a Monastery: but that, with the rest, being given up in the Reign of King Henry VIII. the Church only was preserved.

While it was a Monastery, here was a famous Sanctuary, a Thing much abused in foreign Countries. This Privilege was, it seems, granted to the Church of Rippon by King Athelstan, and whoever broke the Rights of Sanctuary, which he extended a Mile around the Church, were to forfeit Life and Estate; so that, in short, not the Church only, but the whole Town, and a Circle of two Miles diameter, was a Refuge for all that fled to it, where they lived safe, and out of the Reach of all Law.

Annexed to this Monastery was an Hospital, the Purposes of which are very remarkable, and would be worthy Imitation in our Days of Protestant Charity. The House was called the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene, where, according to the Foundation, were to be maintained two Chaplains, to perform Divine Service; and if any begging Clergyman, or other needy Person should happen to travel or stray out of his Way, and call at the said Hospital, he should be relieved there for one Night only, with Food and a Bed, and so be gone in the Morning; and every poor Person that came craving an Alms on St. Mary Magdalene's Day yearly, should have one Loaf, Value an Half-peny, (when Corn was at the Price of five Shillings per Quarter) and one Herring.

'Tis also recorded, that one Branch of this Hospital was given to a Society of religious Sisters to maintain a Chaplain to perform Divine Service; and to keep all the Lepers born and bred in Hipschire; but the Sisters being in time removed, a Brotherhood was established in their stead, which continued for a while; and after that a Mastership. At length all, except the Church, was demolished together, and the House with the Monastery suppressed.

The Church is an antient Gothick Building, firm, strong, and plain; no Imagery or Statues to be seen about it; there are three Towers, on which formerly were Spires.

The whole Revenues were seized by King Henry VIII. so that little or nothing remained for an officiating Clergyman. But King James I. having the Case represented to him by his Queen, was pleased to found and endow in this Church one Dean, and seven Prebendaries, besides Petit-canons, Singing-men, and Choiristers, of his own Royal Bounty and Benevolence, under the Jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York.

But I must not leave Rippon without mentioning St. Wilfrid's Needle, a Place famous in antient Times, being a narrow Hole in a close vaulted Room under Ground, in which Womens Chastity was tried; and, if chaste, they passed thro', but if otherwise, the Whim was, they could not. Some Saxon Coins were found here in the Year 1695.

In the Church-yard of this Minster lies a plain Monument, or Gravestone, over the Remains of a generous Soul, who gave Two thousand Pounds to pious Uses, and yet has no other Epitaph than the following: ‘ Hic jacet Zacharias Jepson, cujus Aetas fuit 49.
per paucos annos tantum vixit. ’

We spent a considerable Part of a Day in the celebrated Park, or rather Garden, belonging to Mr. Aislabie, which is visited by all the Curious, and admired as a Wonder, not only with regard to the various Beauties, which Nature has so lavishly bestowed; but those of Art and Cultivation, wherewith it is so liberally adorned: the latter exhibit a noble Specimen of that exquisite fine Taste for Architecture and Gardening, in which the present worthy Owner is allowed to excel. The Temples and Loggio's, built in many delightful Recesses, may vie with the best Models of the Antients; and the wide extended Plantations are judiciously varied, as the Objects of the Landschape become new. In one Part, the Hills gradually ascend, with Tufts of Shade interspers'd over the Verdure; in another, they precipitately rise, with Rocks projecting from their rough Sides, and tall Woods covering their Brows. Above these, a beautiful Gothick (but unconsecrated) Tower lifts up its Head; and below, the Skirts of the Cliffs are watered by a River which wanders in one Place with a silent Current, and in another falls down in Cascades: An easy Eminence commands a Prospect of the Town and Minster of Rippon, with a large Extent of Country beyond; and the stately Ruins of Fountain-Abbey are seen from another, besides Gentlemens Seats in the Centre of many Views. The fine Turf of the Park is constantly cleared of Weeds, and equal Care is taken to preserve the best Trees from Decay: Through the whole Scene of Variety, the Improvements are adapted to follow the luxuriant Fancy of Nature, and humour her different Propensities. You see her deck'd out and inrich'd, where Necessity or Propriety bespeak such Indulgence; but in the Simplicity of her own Dress, where Ornament would disfigure her beautiful Attire.

The House is an old Building, but a noble Plan is laid down for a new one, and in a better Situation of the Park. There are Stables built, which are very grand.

The late Bishop of Namur, (Abbot Strickland) when he resided in England in the Year 1734, took a Journey from London to Studley, with Intention to transplant some of the Beauties of this Place, as near as might be, in the Disposition of his Plantations, adjoining to a magnificent Palace he was then about to build at his episcopal Residence.

A Mile from Rippon, or less, is a stately beautiful Seat, called Newbie, built some Years since by Sir Edward Blacket. The Park is extended to the Bank of the River Eure, and is sometimes in part laid under Water by the River, which, coming down from the Western Mountains thro' a marly, loamy Soil, fructifies the Earth, they say, as the River Nile does the Egyptian Fields about Grand Cairo.

As Sir Edward spared no Cost in the Building, and Sir Christopher Wren laid out the Design, as well as chose the Situation, I shall only say, tbat nothing can be added to the one or the other. The Building is of Brick, the Avenues to it are very fine, and the Gardens not only well laid out, but well planted, and as well kept. But for want of fine Gravel, the Walks cannot shew themselves, as they would do, were they in the Southern Part of England. The House has a fine Prospect over the Country, almost to York, with the River in View most of the Way; and it has a very noble Appearance to the great North Road, which lies at Burrow-bridge, within two Miles of it.

As you begin to come into the North-riding, (for the Eure parts the West-riding from it) you find yourself in a Place noted in the North of England for the best and largest Oxen, and the finest galloping Horses, bred either for the light Saddle, for the Race, or the Chace, for Running or Hunting. Sir Edward was a Grazier, and took such Delight in Breeding and Feeding large Black Cattle, that he had two or three times an Ox out of his Park led about the Country for a Sight, and shewed as far as Newcastle, and even to Scotland, for the biggest Bullock in England, and 'twas very seldom, if ever, he was over-match'd.

From the Town of Rippon the North Road, and the Roman Way also, which comes from Castleford-bridge, parting at Aberforth, leads away from the Town of Bedal, in the North-riding, and in a strait Line called Leeming-Lane, leaving Richmond about two Miles on the West, goes on to Piers-bridge, on the River Tees, which are the utmost Limits of this vast County of York.

But as I proposed at my entering into this West-riding to go no further than Rippon, which stands on the Northern Boundary of it, I must stop here, and likewise make it the Boundary, as well of this Journey as of this Letter, since I find it impracticable to take a Survey of this large, populous, and wealthy Division on one Journey, without wandering to and fro, up and down, backward and forward, on purpose, which would be exceedingly fatiguing and uneasy; and as I was resolved to make as perfect Observations as I possibly could, of every thing that I could find remarkable in my way, and especially of the Manufactures of the Country, which I account as well worthy a Traveller's Notice, as the Curiosities and Wonders of Nature, and the most refin'd Operations of the Liberal Arts and Sciences, I have therefore concluded upon another Journey into these Parts, and to enter by the Way of Lancashire; and to coast it along the West and North-west Sides of the Country, up to the River Tees, and the Southern Side of the Bishoprick of Durham; and from thence strike down South into the Centre of the County, and so take a Trip East into the Heart of the North-riding, to see the Towns that lie that Way; and then return West into York, and passing thence South-east, take in such Towns as stand on the East-side of the West-riding, till I arrive at the Fall of the Trent into the Humber; and crossing that River, view the Towns in the East-riding; and lastly, follow the Sea-coast all the Way up into Durham, which will complete my Tour through the whole County.

I am, Sir, Yours, &c.

Notes

*
Places abroad noted for the Virtue of their Waters.
↵

LETTER III. CONTAINING A Description of Part of the West-riding of Yorkshire, and of all the North and East-ridings, the Bishoprick of Durham, and the County of Northumberland.

SIR,

ACcording to what I proposed in my last, I am now going to enter the West-riding of Yorkshire, from the East-side of Lancashire. I must premise to you, that all this Part of the County is so considerable for its Trade, that the Post-master General has thought fit to establish a Cross-post through all the Western Part of England into it, to maintain the Correspondence of Merchants and Men of Business, of which all this Side of the Island is full. This is a Confirmation of what I have so often repeated, of the Greatness of the Trade carried on in this Part of the Island. This Cross-post begins at Plymouth, in the South-west Part of England, and leaving the great Western Post-road of Excester behind, comes away North to Taunton, Bridgwater, and Bristol; from thence goes on thro' all the great Cities and Towns up the Severn, such as Gloucester, Worcester, Bridgenorth, and Shrewsbury, thence by West Chester to Liverpool and Warrington, from whence it turns away East, and passes to Manchester, Bury, Rochdale, Halifax, Leeds, and York, and ends at Hull.

By this Means the Merchants at Hull have immediate Advice of their Ships which go out of the Chanel, and come in, by their Letters from Plymouth, as readily as the Merchants of London, and without the double Charge of Postage. The Shopkeepers and Manufacturers can correspond with their Dealers at Manchester, Liverpool, and Bristol, nay, even with Ireland directly, without the tedious Interruption of sending their Letters about by London.

I followed this Post-road from Liverpool to Bury, both manufacturing Towns in Lancashire, and the last very considerable for a Sort of coarse Goods, called Half-thicks and Kersies. The Market for them is very great, tho' the Town is situated so remote, so out of the way, and at the very Foot of the Mountains, that it would otherwise be but little frequented.

Rochdale, farther on in our Way to Black-stone Edge, is a good Market-town, and is of late very much improved in the Woollen Manufacture, as are also the Villages in its Neighbourhood.

Here, for our great Encouragement, tho' it was but about the Middle of August, and in some Places the Harvest hardly got in, we saw the Mountains covered with Snow, and felt the Cold very acute and piercing; but we found, as in all those Northern Countries, the People had a happy Way of mixing the Warm and the Cold together; for the Store of good Ale, which flows plentifully in the most mountainous Part of this Country, seems abundantly to make up for all the Inclemencies of the Season, or Difficulties of Travelling, adding also the Plenty of Coals for Firing, of which all those Hills are full.

We mounted the Hills, fortified with a little of this Precaution, early in the Morning; and tho' the Snow, which had fallen in the Night, lay a little upon the Ground, yet we thought it was not much; and the Morning being calm and clear, we had no Apprehension of an uneasy Passage, neither did the People at Rochdale, who kindly directed us the Way, and even offered to guide us over the first Mountains, apprehend any Difficulty for us; so we complimented ourselves out of their Assistance, which we afterwards very much wanted.

For tho' the Sun shone when we came out of the Town of Rochdale, yet when we began to mount the Hills about a Mile from it, we found the Wind rise, and the higher we went, the more it increased upon us; by which I soon perceived, that it had blown before, and perhaps all Night, upon the Hills, though it was calm below. And so we were obliged, in a most discouraging manner, to travel thro' trackless Drifts of Snow, and it continuing snowing too in our Faces, over Blackstone Edge, we knew not whether we were wrong or right, till we perceived some Land-marks, that the honest Rochdale Men had told us of, which gave us great Comfort.

But after we had passed this dismal Edge, it was our constant Labour, as soon as we were at the Top of a Hill, to come down it again on the other Side, and then another Hill arose. I do not remember, that there was one Bottom, that had any considerable Breadth of plain Ground in it, but always a Brook in the Valley running from those Gulls and Deeps between the Hills; and it was observable, that they always cross'd our Way in the Bottoms from the Right-hand to the Left, the Reason of which you shall see presently.

From Blackstone Edge to Halifax is eight Miles, and all the Way, except from Sorby to Halifax, is thus up Hill and down; so that, I suppose, we mounted to the Clouds, and descended to the Water-level, about eight times, in that little Part of the Journey.

But now I must observe to you, that after we had passed the second Hill, and come down into the Valley again, and so still the nearer we came to Halifax, we found the Houses thicker, and the Villages greater, in every Bottom; and not only so, but the Sides of the Hills, which were very steep every way, were spread with Houses; for the Land being divided into small Inclosures, from two Acres to six or seven each, seldom more, every three or four Pieces of Land had a House belonging to them.

In short, after we had mounted the third Hill, we found the Country one continued Village, tho' every way mountainous, hardly a House standing out of a Speaking-distance from another; and as the Day cleared up, we could see at every House a Tenter, and on almost every Tenter a Piece of Cloth, Kersie, or Shalloon, which are the three Articles of this Country's Labour.

In the Course of our Road among the Houses, we found at every one of them a little Rill or Gutter of running Water; if the House was above the Road, it came from it, and crossed the Way to run to another; if the House was below us, it crossed 〈◊〉 from some other distant House above it; and at every considerable House was a Manufactory, which not being able to be carried on without Water, these little Streams were so parted and guided by Gutters or Pipes, that not one of the Houses wanted its necessary Appendage of a Rivulet.

Again, as the Dying-houses, Scouring-shops, and Places where they use this Water, emit it ting'd with the Drugs of the Dying-vat, and with the Oil, the Soap, the Tallow, and other Ingredients used by the Clothiers in Dressing and Scouring, &c. the Lands thro' which it passes, which otherwise would be exceeding barren, are enrich'd by it to a Degree beyond Imagination.

Then, as every Clothier must necessarily keep one Horse, at least, to fetch home his Wooll and his Provisions from the Market, to carry his Yarn to the Spinners, his Manufacture to the Fulling-mill, and, when finished, to the Market to be sold, and the like; so every one generally keeps a Cow or two for his Family. By this means, the small Pieces of inclosed Land about each House are occupied; and by being thus fed, are still farther improved from the Dung of the Cattle. As for Corn, they scarce sow enough to feed their Cocks and Hens.

Such, it seems, has been the Bounty of Nature to this Country, that two Things essential to Life, and more particularly to the Business followed here, are found in it, and in such a Situation, as is not to be met with in any Part of England, if in the World beside: I mean, Coals and running Water on the Tops of the highest Hills. I doubt not but there are both Springs and Coals lower in these Hills; but were they to fetch them thence, 'tis probable the Pits would be too full of Water: 'tis easy, however, to fetch them from the upper Pits, the Horses going light up, and coming down loaden. This Place then seems to have been designed by Providence for the very Purposes to which it is now allotted, for carrying on a Manufacture, which can no-where be so easily supplied with the Conveniencies necessary for it. Nor is the Industry of the People wanting to second these Advantages. Tho' we met few People without Doors, yet within we saw the Houses full of lusty Fellows, some at the Dye-vat, some at the Loom, others dressing the Cloths; the Women and Children carding, or spinning; all imployed from the youngest to the oldest, scarce any thing above four Years old, but its Hands were sufficient for its own Support. Not a Beggar to be seen, not an idle Person, except here and there in an Alms-house, built for those that are antient and past working. The People in general live long; they enjoy a good Air, and under such Circumstances hard Labour is naturally attended with the Blessing of Health, if not Riches.

From this Account, you'll easily imagine, that some of these remote Parts of the North are the most populous Places of Great Britain, London and its Neighbourhood excepted.

We have all this while been in the Parish of Halifax, and before I come to the Town, I must add a Word or two of the River Calder, to complete the Description of the Country I passed through. As I said before, that all the Rills of Water which we crossed, one at least in every Bottom, went away to the Left or North Side of us, as we went Eastward, I am to add, that following those little Brooks with our Eye, we could observe, that at some Distance to the Left there appeared a larger Valley than the rest, into which not only all the Brooks which we passed emptied themselves, but abundance more from the hollow deep Bottoms among the Hills on the North-side beyond it, which emptied this way South, as those on our Side run that way North. And at the next Village, called Sorby, or Sowerby, we passed a considerable River (form'd from those Brooks, and the melted Snows) over a stately Stone Bridge of several great Arches. And this was the main River Calder, which I mentioned at Wakefield, where it begins to be navigable, and which, without any Spring, may be called the Head of it.

The same Observation will hold on most of the great Rivers in the North; there being hardly any that have their Beginning in any publick Springs or Lakes, as the Rivers in the South of England generally have; which is the Case particularly of the Derwent and the Don from the High Peak, and the Hills of the same Range more South of the Edge; of the Aire, the Wherfe, the Swale, the Eure, the Nyd, the Tees, and the Were, all in the same County of York; and the Tyne, the Cockett, the Till, and the Tweed, farther North; and even the Forth, the Tay, the Clyde, the Nyd, in Scotland; and the Mersee, the Ribble, the Rocke, and the Lune, the West Calder, the Lowther, and the Eden, on the other Side of these Mountains, in Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cumberland.

Having thus accounted for them all at once, I shall only mention them now as they come in my way; for you will observe, I crossed one or other of them at every considerable Town, all the Rivers as well in England as in Scotland, North of this Place, running from the middle of the Country where these Mountains rise, either East into the German, or West into the Irish Sea. None of them run like the Severn, or the Wye, or the Rivers in South Wales, or the Exe in Devon, or the Avon in Wilts, or the Arun in Sussex, and others North and South. But I return to my Journey.

Having passed the Calder at Sorby Bridge, I now came to the Town of Halifax, the most populous Parish or Vicarage in England; for it is but one, though 12 Miles in Diameter; but it has 12 or 13 Chapels of Ease, besides about 16 Meeting-houses, which they call also Chapels, being conformable in Fashion to them, having Bells and Burying-ground to most of them, not reckoning those of the Quakers into the Number.

In the Year 1443, there were but 30 Houses in it; but in the next Century it was much increased: for History tells us, that Queen Elizabeth being petition'd by the Inhabitants of Halifax, to grant them some Privileges, they set forth, as an Instance of their Loyalty, that no less than 12000 young Men went out armed from this one Parish, and, at her Majesty's Call, joined her Troops to fight the Popish Army, then in Rebellion under the Earl of Westmorland.

If they then were so populous, what must they be now their Trade is so vastly inlarged by the great Demand of Kerseys for cloathing the Armies abroad? Some maintain, that it is increased a fourth at least within these 50 Years; from their having entred upon a Manufacture of Shalloons, which were never made in these Parts before, at least, not in any Quantities; and 'tis computed, that 100,000 Pieces are work'd up in this Parish only; and yet they do not make much fewer Kerseys than they did before; for I was assured, that there was one Dealer in the Vicarage, who traded, by Commission, for 60000l. a Year in Kerseys only, to Holland and Hamburgh. And of late Years it is still more increased, by the People of a neighbouring Part driving away about 4000 Irish Manufacturers, who with about 2000 others accompanying them, settled there. As the Vicarage is thus far extended, and so populous, what must the Market be which supplies this vast Number of Inhabitants? And yet these are all brought from other Parts of the Country. For as to Corn, they sow little, and they feed very few Oxen or Sheep; and as they are surrounded with large manufacturing Towns on every Side, all of them imployed, like themselves, in the Clothing Trade, they must necessarily have their Provisions from other more distant Parts.

The Consequence then is plain; their Corn comes up in great Quantities out of Lincoln, and Nottinghamshire, and the East-riding; the Black Cattle from thence, and from Lancashire; Sheep and Mutton from the adjacent Counties every way; Butter from the East and North-ridings; and Cheese out of Cheshire and Warwickshire.

The Markets in the Months of September and October are prodigiously thronged, that being the Time when the Clothiers buy up as many Oxen as will serve their Family for the whole Year, which they used to drive Home, kill, salt, and hang up in the Smoke to dry. This was heretofore their common Diet, but now they live more upon fresh Meats.

Thus one trading manufacturing Part of the Country in a barren Soil, gives and receives Support from all the Countries round it.

There is nothing extraordinary in the Town itself; but the Multitude of People who resort to it on a Market-day, as well to sell their Manufactures, as to buy Provisions, is prodigious: in this respect no Places equal it in all the North Part of England, except Leeds and Wakefield.

The Church is old, but stately and venerable, and has in it many extraordinary Monuments, but most of them of great Antiquity. Here is a very good Hospital, and a Work-house of an antient Establishment; and there are several Charities of like Sort, in different Parts of the Parish.

Halifax gave Birth to John of Halifax, or de Sacro Bosco, the chief Mathematician of his Age, who was buried at the publick Expence of the University of Paris; and to the late Archbishop Tillotson, the Model of true rational Preaching; tho' a new Sect, lately sprung up, called Methodists, with great Pretences to Meekness, and intolerable Conceit and Vanity, at present seek publickly to depreciate the Memory and Works of that truly great Man.

The Course of Justice antiently made use of here to prevent the stealing of Cloth, is very remarkable. Modern Authors pretend to say it was for all Sorts of Felons; but I am well assured, it was first erected purely, or at least principally, for such Thieves as were detected in stealing Cloth from the Tenters: and it seems very reasonable to think it was so, because of the Conditions of the Trial. The following is a brief Account of it:

The Woollen Manufacture was erected here about the Year 1480, when King Henry VII. caused an Act to pass prohibiting the Exportation of unwrought Wooll, and to encourage foreign Manufacturers to settle in England; several of whom coming over, established different Manufactures of Cloths in different Parts of the Kingdom, as that of Bays at Colchester. Says at Sudbury, Broad-cloth in Wilts, and other Counties; and the Trade of Kerseys and narrow Cloth at this Place, and other adjacent Towns. And as, at the Time when this Trade began, nothing was more frequent than for young Workmen to leave their Cloths out all Night upon Tenters, which gave an Opportunity for the idle Fellows to steal them, a severe Law was made against stealing Cloth, which gave the Power of Life and Death into the Hands of the Magistrates of Halifax. But this Law was extended to no other Crime; and the Conditions of it, as I have said, intimate as much: for the Power was not given to the Magistrates to give Sentence, unless in one of these three plain Cases:

- 1. Hand Napping, that is, when the Criminal was taken in the very Fact.

- 2. Back Bearing, that is, when the Cloth was found upon him.

- 3. Tongue Confessing, which needs no Explanation.

The Fact likewise was to be committed within the Liberties or Precincts of the Forest of Hardwick; and the Value of the Goods stolen was to be above thirteen Pence Halfpeny.

When the Criminal was taken, he was brought before the Magistrates of the Town, and they judged, sentenced, and executed the Offender, or cleared him, within so many Days; I think it was three Market Days. If the Offence was committed out of the Vicarage, but within the Bounds of the Forest, then there were Frith Bourgers also to judge of the Fact, who were to be summoned out of the Forest Holders, as they are called, who were to hold of that Frith, that is, of the Forest. If they acquitted him of the Fact, he was immediately discharged; if they condemned him, nobody could reprieve him but the Town. The Country People were, it seems, so terrified at the Severity of this Proceeding, that hence came that Proverbial Litany, which was used all over Yorkshire:

From Hell, Hull, and Halifax,

Good Lord, deliver us.

Hull was included in this Petition, on account of their rigid Discipline to Beggars; for they whipt out the foreign Poor, and set their own to work.

The Manner of Execution was very remarkable, by an Ax drawn up by a Pulley, and fastened with a Pin to the Side of a Wooden Engine, which when pulled out, the Axe fell swiftly down, and did its Office.

The Engine is now gone, but the Basis on which it stood still remains, being a square Foundation of Stone, to which you go up by Steps. The Engine was removed, as we were told, in the Year 1620, during the Reign of K. James I.

In the Reign of the same Prince, the Earl of Morton, Regent of Scotland, passing thro' Halifax, and seeing one of these Executions, caused a Model to be taken, and carried into his own Country, where it is made use of at this Day. But his Lordship's own Head was the first that was cut off with it; and it being many Years before that happened, the Engine got the Name of the Maiden, before it was handselled by the Execution of the Earl; and this it retains, tho' it has cut off many a Head since.

The Ways to Halifax used to be exceedingly bad, and, except at the West Entrance, almost inaccessible; but of late Years they have been much mended; and several Acts of Parliament have passed very lately, which will greatly increase the Conveniences of the People thereabouts, as well as improve its Commerce and Communication all around it, to Lancaster, as well as to Leeds, Doncaster, and all the great trading Towns, even to the City of York itself.

Due East from Halifax, is Kirkley, a small Village, situated on the Calder, near which is the Monument of the famous Robin Hood; and upon the Moor, his Butts, Two little Hills, so called, about a Quarter of a Mile asunder. I have now traced this Hero from the Forest of Shirwood, the Scene of his Exploits, to his Grave. I before doubted whether there ever was such an one; but Epitaphs, as great Liars as they are, I suppose, are Evidence that such a Man once existed. His is as follows:

Here undernead dislaid Stean

Lais Robert Earl of Huntingtun.

Nea areir ver az hie sa geud,

An Pipl kauld im Robin Heud:

Lick Utlawz hi an is Men

Vil England niver see agen.

Near this Place is a little Town, called Burstall, where they make Broad Cloth, so called in Distinction from Kerseys and Druggets, and the like, tho' the Cloths in this Country are called Narrow, when they are spoken of in London, and compared with the Broad Cloths made in Wilts, Gloucester, Somerset, and Devonshire.

This Town is famed for Dying, and there are made here a sort of Cloth in Imitation of Gloucester Whites, which, tho' they may not be so fine, yet their Colours are as good.

From hence to Leeds, and every way round, the Country appears exceedingly busy and diligent. The Houses are not scatter'd and dispersed, as in the Parish of Halifax, but crouded up in large Villages, and thronged with People.

A few Miles South-west of Halifax is Huthersfield, upon the Calder, which is the first noted Town it comes to. This Town is one of the Five, where that vast Clothing-trade, which I have already mentioned, is carried on. They have a Market here for Kerseys every Tuesday.

While I am speaking of their Manufactures, I must not forget that very essential one, called Yorkshire Ale, which indeed is in its Perfection in all this Part of the County. But I cannot pass over Huthersfield without taking notice of its old Neighbour, Almondbury, a famous Town in the Time of the Romans, and called Campodunum; but 'tis now a Village only. Mr. Camden calls it a Royal Town; and says, it had a Cathedral Church in it, dedicated to St. Alban, from whom it was called Albanbury, whence its present Name. The Ruins of a Stone Castle and Rampire are still to be seen near it.

The River Calder having been made navigable to Wakefield, and great Benefit arising from it, it is now [Ann. 1741.] about to be made further navigable, to the Towns of Ealand and Halifax; which will be of inexpressible Service to those populous and improving Places, and all the Villages and Towns adjacent. And as there have just passed new Acts to mend the Road from Selby to Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, and from Ealand to Leeds, which have been torn in Pieces by the heavy Carriages passing to and fro in the carrying on the vast extended Trade of those Parts; 'tis hardly to be conceived what Benefit will accrue from these publick Works.

The first Town we came to from Halifax, was Bradford. It has a Market; but is of no other Note than having given Birth to Dr. Sharp, the good Archbishop of York.

We soon enter'd Craven, which is a very hilly and craggy Country, as the Name signifies; for Craven comes from the British Word Craig, a Rock. But, however unpleasant,

We proceeded farther North-west, and arrived at Skipton, a good well-built Town, encompassed with Hills on every Side. The Market is well frequented and supplied. Here is a large handsome Church, and a good Grammar School; to which one Mr. Petyt, who had been principal of Bernard's-Inn, London, gave a considerable Parcel of Books, and likewise erected a good Library in the Church. We were agreeably surprised to find so handsome a Town, and such good Accommodations in so mountainous a Country.

This is a healthy Country however, and the Inhabitants live to a great Age: a Father and Son giving Evidence at the Assizes at York, it appeared the first was 140, and the Son 100 Years old.

Here the Road turns almost due West, which brought us to a Town called Settle, a much better Town than we expected in such a Country. It lies on the Road to Lancaster, at the Foot of the Mountains which part that County from Yorkshire, upon the River Ribble.

And a little lower, upon the same River, upon the Borders of Lancashire, stands Gisborne, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Looking forwards, to the North-west of us, we saw nothing but high Mountains, which had a terrible Aspect, and more frightful than any in Monmouthshire or Derbyshire, especially Pingent Hill, which Camden derives from the British Word Pengwin, i. e. White-head, from the Snow lying upon it: so that having no manner of Inclination to encounter them, merely for the sake of seeing only a few Villages, and a Parcel of wild People, we turned short North-east, and came to the great Road leading Northward to Richmond, at a Village called Brumstal, noted for the Birth of Sir William Craven, an Alderman of London, who was a great Founder and Builder of Churches, Bridges, Causways, and other publick Edifices in this Country.

Having passed thro' some other inconsiderable Villages, we enter'd Midlam, a little Market-town on the River Youre, and the North-riding of Yorkshire together, and so leaving Masham, another inconsiderable Market-town, which lay upon the same River, to the South-east of us, we passed along to Bedal, which is likewise of no great Note, saving that the Living is worth 500l. a Year, and that we met here again the Roman Causway, which leads up through Richmond to Barnards Castle, in the Bishoprick of Durham, and is called Leeming-lane for 20 Miles together. We put ourselves upon this Way, and were not long before we arrived at Richmond.

Tho' I met with nothing else within the Town of Bedal worth observing, yet the Country round it, as indeed the whole County, is more or less full of Jockies, and Dealers in Horses; and the Breed in this, and the next County, is so well known, that tho' the Pedigree of them is not preserved for a Succession of Ages, as 'tis said they do in Arabia, yet are their Stallions denominated by certain Names, that never fail to advance the Price of a Horse according to the Reputation of the Sire he comes of.

And indeed, let Foreigners boast what they will of Barbs and Turkish Horses, or of the Spanish Jennets from Cordoua, for which 500l. apiece have been given, I believe that some of the Gallopers of this County, and of the Bishoprick of Durham, which joins to it, will out-do, for Speed and Strength, the swiftest Horse that was ever bred in Turkey or Barbary, take both Advantages together. For tho' the Barb may beat Yorkshire for a Mile Course, Yorkshire shall distance him at the End of the Four Miles; the Barb shall carry the Day with Seven and a half, but Yorkshire with 12 and 14 Stone. In a word, Yorkshire shall carry the Man, and the Barb a Feather. But they are universally allowed to be the best Hunting and Road Horses in the World; and are bought up by Foreigners on that Account.

As this Part of the Country is so much imployed in Horses, the young Fellows are bred up in the Stable, and make excellent Grooms.

Besides their Fame for Horses, they have the Reputation also of being good Grafiers over this whole Country, and produce a large, noble Breed of Oxen, as may be seen at North Allerton Fairs, where incredible Numbers of them are bought Eight times every Year, and brought Southward as far as the Fens in Lincolnshire, and the Isle of Ely, where they are fed up to the Grossness of Fat we see in London Markets. The Market these North Country Cattle are generally brought to, is at St. Ives, a Town between Huntingdon and Cambridge, upon the River Ouse.

Richmond is so called from its Situation upon a Hill or Mount, fruitful, tho' the Country about it is rocky and barren; and it gives the Name of Richmondshire to the District it is in, as another, East of this, is called Allertonshire: the former is in the Diocese of Chester, and the latter in that of Durham.

This Town, in the Time of Richard II. was annexed to the Duchy of Lancaster, and so still continues. Earl Edwin built a Castle here, the Tower o• which is still standing; as is also the Steeple of the old Priory. It is a Borough governed by a Mayor, &c. and holds Pleas in all kinds of Action; has a good Market-place, and Three Gates, which lead to Three different Suburbs. It is well built all of Stone, and some Houses of Free-stone.

We were told, That in the Year 1732, Mr. Wharton of Newcastle, Agent to his Grace the Duke of Richmond, by ordering several Places here to be dug very deep, discovered the Draw-bridge and Moat belonging to Richmond Castle, which were of very curious Workmanship.

Here thrives a kind of Manufactory of knit Yarn Stockens for Servants, and ordinary People. Every Family is imployed that way, both great and small; and here you may buy the smallest sized Stockens for Children for 1s. 6d. the Dozen Pair, sometimes less.

This Trade extends itself also into Westmorland, or rather from Westmorland hither: for at Kendal, Kirkby-Stephen, and such other Places in this County as border upon Yorkshire, the chief Manufacture of Yarn Stockens is carried on, which is indeed a very considerable one, and of late greatly increased.

We made some Excursions from this Town into the Country round it, and followed the River Swal• West, which runs under the Wall of the Castle of Richmond, and, by reason of Rocks, which intercept its Passage, forms here a natural Cataract. This River, tho' not extraordinary large, is noted for giving Name to the Lands which it runs through for some Length, called Swale Dale, and to an antient Family of that Name; the last of whom was Sir Solomon Swale, Bart. who wrote himself of Swale Hall, in Swale Dale, by the River Swale. This Gentleman became unfortunate, and was supplanted by a Person not long since dead, who was a Clerk in the Exchequer Office; and observing this Family held their Estate of the Crown, and that they had omitted to renew for many Years, procured a Grant from the Crown, of this Estate for himself. A great many Law-suits ensued; but to no other Effect than to increase the Misfortunes of this Gentleman, who died a Prisoner in the Fleet, but, I think, not till his Adversary had first made away with himself.

Swale Dale is a low, pleasant, and rich Valley, abounding with Grass, but very bare of Wood; tho' here is a Place just by, called Swale Dale Forest: it might have been so antiently, but there are hardly Trees enough in it now to denominate it a Forest.

Not •ar from this Forest lies Wensdale, a very rich and fruitful Valley, well covered with delicate green Grass, and stocked with vast Herds of Cattle; and, in some Places, produces Lead Ore. The Eure runs thro' the Midst of it, and rises in th• Western Mountains, very near the S••rce of the Swale, which, as it were, leaps into it from a Precipice at Myton. Both these Rivers are plentifully stocked with Fish, and Eure has Cra•••sh in it.

But let me stop in this •••ce, to take Notice of one of the greatest Ra••…es that England ever produced; I mean Henry Jenkins, whose remarkable great Age deserves our particular Notice: He was born in the Year 1500, and died in 1670, being then 169 Years of Age. There are no Registers of so long a Date, and therefore his Age must be guessed at by other Circumstances, either from his own Account, or the probable Evidences of others. Which are these:

First, Being demanded by a Gentlewoman, who was curious to know, as exactly as possible how old he was, What Kings he remembred; he answered, after a little Pause, "That he thought himself about 162 or 163 Years old; and that he could remember Plowden (meaning Floddon) Field, fought against the Scots, in King Henry VIII.'s Reign." She then ask'd him: "Was the King himself there?" He replied, "No; he was in France, and the Earl of Surrey was General." She asked him then, "How old he was then?" He said, "About 12 Years old." That Battle was fought September 9. 1513; King Henry being then at Tournay.

Secondly, There were Four or Five of the same Parish, at that time, of an 100 Years old or very near it, who all declared, That they never knew him any other than an elderly Man; and that he told them he was Butler to the Lord Coniers. The last of that Name died without Issue 3 & 4 Philip and Mary I. An. Dom. 1557. And he remembred the Abbot of Fountains, before the Dissolution in King Henry VIII.'s Time.

Thirdly, He went often to the Assizes on Foot; and was used as a Witness in other Courts, whose Records speak largely of his Age. In the Chancery he was sworn, to the Remembrance of above 140 Years; and as much, often, at York Assizes. In the King's Remembrancer's Office in the Exchequer, a Record saith, "That Henry Jenkins, Labourer, aged 157 Years, deposed, as a Witness, in 1665; and, to confirm his Age, divers antient Men, who were Witnesses, swore that he was a very old Man when they first knew him."

He was, for the last Century of his Life, a Fisherman, and used to wade and swim in the Rivers even after he was an hundred Years old, and lived upon very coarse Diet. In some of his last Years, being unable to work at his Trade, he went a begging to Gentlemens Houses, who used to relieve him chearfully, as a great Curiosity. And his great Age was the more to be credited, because he could neither write nor read: and so, what he reported, was from Strength of Memory Two Years before his Death, he was able to bind Sheaves after the Reapers, and had his Sight and Hearing to the last.

The next Excursion we made was up to the Banks of the Tees, thro' Gilling, Eggleston, and Bowes, now ordinary Towns, or rather Villages; tho' the first had, formerly, a great Castle; which, in the Conqueror's Time, and long afterwards, was the Seat of the Lords of that Country; whereas Richmond, which has since rose out of the Ruins of Gilling, was but a Fort, and in Subordination to it.

Eggleston is famous for Marble, which they dig out of the Rocks there, and imploys a great many Hands.

Bowes stands upon the Military Roman Way, and has been therefore, undoubtedly, a Place of great Note.

In this Part of Richmondshire, and up Northward, are no less than Three Forests, viz. Applegarth Forest, New Forest, and Lune Forest; and all these within a Tract of Ground of no great Extent. Not far off is, besides, the Forest of Swale Dale, before-mentioned.

The Tees is famous for Salmon, and is a rapid River, and sometimes swells up so suddenly, that a Man, in passing the Ford, in the Road to Darlington, on Foot, whilst the Water was low, and hardly up to his Knees, was overtaken, as he was going over, by a sudden Swell of the Stream, and carried off and drown'd. The People this way talk much of an antient City they had formerly hereabout. The Antiquaries agree, there was one called by the Romans, Cataractonium, but differ as to its Situation; but, I think, Mr. Salmon has placed it most probably upon the Confluences of the Tees and Greta, at a Place called Merton; where indeed the Remains of it are very visible; and also about Gretabridge, which is just by it.

We crossed the River, and entered Bernard's-castle, which lies on the North Side of it, and consequently within the Bishoprick of Durham. It was built by the Grandfather of Baliol, King of Scotland, and is an antient well-built Town, but not large. Here they have an excellent Art of dressing their Hides into Leather, out of which they make the best Bridles, Reins, and Belts; as at Rippon they were wont to furnish you with the best Spurs and Stirrups.

The Manufacture for Stockens continues thus far, and flourishes here and at Marwood, and other little Villages on the Borders of Durham; but the Jockey-trade extends much farther.

Between this Part of the Bishoprick where this Town stands, on the East, and Lancaster on the West, a mountainous Tract of Yorkshire runs, like a Promontory, up Northward a great way, Hill upon upon Hill, Cliffs, Rocks, and terrible Precipices, most astonishing to behold. This rugged Part of the Country is called Stanmore Hills, which are desolate and solitary, excepting one Inn, for the Entertainment of such as may be hardy enough to go among them. As for us, we did not think it worth our while. But here are, it seems, abundance of the Frolicks of Nature in Stone, which exactly resemble Serpents, and other various Forms.

The West Side of the Bishoprick being very mountainous too, and corresponding with that of Stanmore, we turned North-east, to visit a little Market-town, but a little way off, called Stainthorp; but being of no other Note than having a stately Tomb in the Church to the Memory of one of the Nevils, and his two Wives, we passed on to Raby Castle, which stands just by it, the antient Seat of that Family; but now of the Lord Vane. But it has nothing remarkable in it.

We came next to Piers-bridge, to which the Roman Causway leads, or, as they call it, Leeming-lane. Here have been many remarkable Remains of Antiquity dug up, and particularly an old Altarpiece. We thought to have returned by this Bridge into Yorkshire; but were desirous to take in Darlington first, and pass over the Tees there.

Darlington is remarkable for its dirty Situation; for a beautiful Church, with a high Spire rising up from the Midst of it; and for a good long Stone Bridge, over very little or no Water. It is a large considerable Market-town of great Resort, and well supplied. The Market-place is large and convenient. It is noted for the Linen Manufacture, as the Water of the Skern, on which it is situated, is exceeding good for Bleeching, insomuch that Linen has been sent hither from Scotland, to bleech; but it particularly excels in Huggabags of Ten Quarters wide, which are made no-where else in England; and of which, as well as other Linen-cloth, it sends up large Quantities to London.

A greater Rarity, I may mention in this Town, was our Landlord, at the Fleece Inn, by Name Henry Lovell, who died in May 1739, in the 93d Year of his Age, and had kept this Inn ever since 1688. He was never known to have one Hour's Sickness, nor even the Head-ach, tho' a free Toper of Ale, sometimes for Days and Nights successively, but had an Aversion to Drams of all kinds, retained his Hearing, Sight and Memory, to his last Moments. He never made use of Spectacles, nor ever lost a Tooth. He was esteemed in his Life, and lamented at his Death, being of a humane Temper, and had the Deportment of a Gentleman.

At Oxehall, near this Town, we saw the famous Hell Kettles; which are Three deep Pits full of Water; which have occasioned many fabulous Stories among the Country-people, and divers Conjectures among the Learned; but they seem to be nothing else but old Coal pits (and yet there is no Coal near them now) filled by the Water of the Tees, thro' some subterraneous Passage, as 'tis said, Bishop Tunstal experienced, by marking a Goose, and putting her into one of the Pits; which he found next Day in the Tees. Others say, they were occasioned by an Earthquake, which is recorded in the Chronicle of Tinmouth for the Year 1179, when the Earthquake happened.

We passed on East, and came to Yarum Bridge, where we re-crossed the Tees. It is a very good and well-built Bridge. The Town is incorporated, and but small, lying near the Influx of the little River Levan into the Tees. It has seen much better Days; but, however, of late Years, it is a little recovered, and carries a pretty Trade, by Water, for Lead, Corn, and Butter, with London.

Stokesby is also but a small Market-town, and stands near the Source of the same River, a few Miles East of Yarum, inland; which lies in a little Tract of rich and fruitful Ground, called Allertonshire, and water'd by the River Wysk. It is a corporate Town, consisting of one Street, about half a Mile long, well-built, with a very good Market; and is noted for having the greatest Beast-fair in England.

Here was a bloody Battle fought, in King Stephen's Time, between David King of Scotland and Archbishop Tunstall, who was Lieutenant in these Parts for King Stephen, which was called the Battle of the Standard; which, it seems, never used to be erected but when the Kingdom was in imminent danger. The Bishop prevailed, and routed the Scots, tho' Henry, King David's Son, kept the Field of Battle with a Band of hardy Soldiers, after the Bulk of the Army was fled, with their King after them; and fought valiantly, till he was overpower'd, and oblig'd to follow his Father.

From hence we advanced still South, and passed thro' Thirsk, a corporate Town, which has but an ordinary Market, to Aldborough and Borough-brigg, which lie within Three Miles of Rippon upon the River Eure.

These are Two Borough Towns, each sending Two Members to Parliament, which is a Circumstance peculiar to this Place, and to Weymouth and Melcomb in Dorsetshire.

Borough-brigg, or Bridge, seems to be the modern Town risen up out of Aldborough, the very Names importing as much, the one being Borough at the Bridge, and the other Old Borough, that was before it. All the Antiquaries are agreed in this, who place on the Side of Aldborough, or Old Borough, an antient City, and Roman Colony, called Isurium Brigantium. At present there are not so much as the Ruins of a City to be seen above Ground. But the Coins, Urns, Vaults, Pavements, and the like, frequently dug up there, give Evidence to the Thing; and some of them are so very remarkable, that I cannot chuse to refer you to Mr. Camden, and his Continuator, for farther Satisfaction: only adding to what they have observed, that a curious Piece of Antiquity was discover'd a few Years ago; which is a Mosaick Pavement of singular Form and Beauty, brought to light on digging the Foundation of a House, and which is now about Two Feet from the Level of the Street.

At the Door of the College is another tesselated Pavement of a different Form from the other, and tho' not above Three Yards from it, it is a Foot nearer the Surface of the Street. The former is composed of white and black Squares, with a Border of red; but the Stones of this are lesser Squares, and are white, yellow, red, and blue.

Not long since more Pavements of this kind were discover'd on an Eminence called Borough-hill; as also the Foundations of a considerable Building; two Bases of Pillars of some regular Order; large Stones of the grit Kind, with Joints for Cramping; sacrificing Vessels; Flews for Conveyance of Smoke, or warm Air; Bones and Horns of Beasts, mostly Stags; an Ivory Needle; and a Copper Roman Stylus: from all which it may reasonably be supposed, that a Temple formerly stood in this Place. I had not so much Curiosity as to go to see the Three great pyramidal Stones in the Fields on the Left-hand, as you go thro' Borough-bridge, which the Country People, being unable to comprehend how they came there, will have to be brought by the Devil, and so call them The Devil's Arrows. Mr. Camden describes them, as also does Mr. Drake in his History of the Antiquities of York, to whom therefore I refer.

Borough-bridge, the latest built of the two Towns I have mentioned, is undoubtedly very old; for here, in the Barons Wars, was a Battle; and on this Bridge the great Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, was killed by a Soldier, who lay concealed under the Bridge, and wounded him, by thrusting a Spear or Pike, thro' a Chink, into his Body, as he was passing over it. From whence we may conclude, with Mr. Camden, that it was a Timber Bridge then, and not built of Stone, as it is now.

At Borough-brigg the Battle was fought between King Edward II. and his Barons, who were defeated, and after ensued the bloody Execution at Pontefract, of the Earl of Lancaster, and others of the Barons, as I mentioned when I spoke of Pontefract.

These Two Borough Towns lying near the Centre of this vast County, and on the Skirts of the North and West Ridings, and there being a great many Towns about the Middle of the first, that we could not more conveniently visit than from hence; we therefore struck away East, and North-east, through the Towns of Hovingham, Rydell, Hemesley, and Kirkby Moore Side; which is so called because it lies on the Side of Blackamoore. But they were far from answering our Trouble of going so far out of the Way, (excepting that Hemesley seemed to be tolerably well-built with Stone, and the Houses covered with Slate) the Two first having hardly a Market. But the Situation of Rydell is pleasant, being in a fine fruitful Vale, wherein are 23 Parish-churches.

We then turned South-east, and came to Pickering, a pretty large well-built Town, which has a well-furnished Market, and belongs to the Duchy of Lancaster, having Jurisdiction over several neighbouring Villages, and is called, The Honour of Pickering. It has formerly been a fortified Place, as appears by the Ruins of a Castle, which lie upon a Hill.

It is situate on the West Side of a wild hilly Country, and a Forest which is within the Liberty of the Town, and called Pickering Forest; which we did not care to traverse over, and so passed South-west down to Malton on the Derwent.

This Town is divided into Two Parts, by the River, which are called Old and New Malton. The Old is the Camalodunum of the Romans, and was burnt by Thurstan, Archbishop of York, in King Stephen's Cause, against Eustace, the Lord of it, who had betray'd Part of this Country into the Hands of the Scots; but Eustace, being afterwards received into Favour, rebuilt it, and it has been ever since called New Malton. Here has been a famous Abbey, and the Church of it is still standing, but very ruinous, tho' the Castle is quite demolished.

This Town is well-built and inhabited, and has Two well-supplied weekly Markets, which are held by Prescription; for it is not incorporated. It is the best Market in the County for Horses, Cattle, and Provisions; and is noted for Utensils in Husbandry. It has likewise Three handsome Parish Churches, and a good Stone Bridge over the Derwent. Near this Town is a Well, whose Water is said to have the same Virtue as that of Scarborough.

We set out from hence, and for some Miles coasted along the Banks of Derwent towards York, taking Hinderskell in our Way, where the late Earl of Carlisle built the magnificent Seat of Castle Howard, upon the Spot of Ground where the old Castle stood, in the middle of a Wood; but his Lordship died before it was finish'd. I shall mention this again by-and-by.

But I must not omit, that on the South-side of the Derwent, we saw Auldby, a little Village, where, 'tis said, stood, in the Roman Times, a City called Derventis, where a Company named Derventienses was station'd.

The Derwent is a River very full of Water, and overflows its Banks, and all the neighbouring Meadows, always after Rain. It is likewise well-stock'd with Fish, and runs between the East and North Ridings.

We are now entering the great City of York, the Eboracum of the Romans, and of such Account in their Time, that no less than Three Military Ways pass'd thro' it; and it was not only a Roman Colony, but the Seat of some of the Emperors, and principal Generals, particularly of Severus and Constantius Chlorus, the Father of Constantine the Great.

In our Approach to it we discovered many visible Marks of Antiquity, not reducible to Description; and tho' Time and Misfortunes have so deeply effaced all Traces of its once glorious Splendor, yet some noble Remains of Majesty are still to be seen there, especially as we viewed it from a rising Hill at some small Distance on the London Road: nay, after we were within the Walls, and had Leisure to look about, we found ourselves not disappointed in the Idea we had before conceived of it; and every Traveller, who is inquisitive in the Search of Antiquities or Curiosities, will be tempted to make some Stay at York; there being a very great Variety of each to detain and amuse him.

Among the former I shall only mention the Arch at Micklegate-bar, and the multangular Tower and Wall, near a Place called the Mint-yard, both built in the Time of the Romans. But whether the Two Statues now prostrate on the Wall of St. Laurence Church-yard, be Roman or Saxon, is hard to determine: certain it is, that the sepulchral Monument of the Standard-bearer to the Ninth Legion of the Roman Army was dug up near Micklegate; and in other Parts of the City have been found many Roman Altars, Inscriptions, Urns, Coins and the like, now in the Possession of the Curious.

I do not include the Ruins of Abbeys, Churches and Castles, now to be seen in this Place, among the Antiquities of it, because they are but of a late Date, compared with the antient Remains, of the Roman Skill and Grandeur, and because they would take up more Time and Room than the Nature of my Work will allow.

The City of York is surrounded by a strong Wall, kept in good Repair, in which are four Gates, and five Posterns. It is a County of itself, extending ever all the Wapontake, called Ainsty, and is governed by a Mayor, who is styled Lord, as at London, a Recorder, 12 Aldermen, in Commission of the Peace, two Sheriffs, 24 Prime Common-council Men, eight Chamberlains, 72 Common-council Men, a Town-clerk, Sword-bearer, and Common Sergeant; and the Mayor and Aldermen have Conservation of the Rivers Ouze, Humber, Wherse, Derwent, Air, and Dun, within certain Limits of each.

This City always gives Title to the second Prince of the Blood Royal, and the two Citizens they return to Parliament, have a Privilege of taking their Places in the House of Commons, next the Citizens of London, upon what is called the Privy Counsellor's Bench; a Privilege which, if neglected to be claimed, ought to be made known, as it appertains to the Citizens of London and York only, and is by those of London, exercised the first Day of the Meeting of every new Parliament.

The Situation of York is in a Plain on both Sides the River Ouse. It was formerly very populous, and had a great Trade; but has declined since the Reformation, and the Difuse of the Court of President of the North. In Henry the Vth's Time there were 41 Parishes, 17 Chapels, 16 Hospitals, and nine Abbeys, besides the Cathedral, and now there are only 17 Churches in Use.

The present Support of the City is chiefly owing to the Gentry, who make it their Winter Residence, as there is great Plenty of Provisions of all kinds to furnish an elegant Table at a moderate Expence, so that the Altar, which was found there, with a Roman Inscription, is applicable to the present Circumstances of the Place, DIS DEABUSQUE HOSPITALIBUS. And as the Inhabitants abound with the Conveniencies of Life, they likewise partake of its Diversions, there being Plays, Assemblies, Musick-Meetings, or some Entertainments, every Night in the Week.

The publick Edifices which most deserve Mention, I shall now take Notice of, and first of the Bridge over the Ouse. It consists of five Arches: the Diameter of the middle Arch, which was the largest in the Kingdom, before that at Blenheim House was built, is 81 Feet, and its Height 51 Feet. The Reason it was built so wide, was on occasion of an Accident which once happen'd to it, when upon a sudden Thaw, which occasion'd a great Flood, a prodigious Weight of Ice drove down two Arches of the old Bridge, by which 12 Houses were demolished, and several Persons drown'd.

The great Council-chamber for this City, near which the Records are kept, as also the Exchequer and Courts of the Sheriffs, and beneath them the two City Prisons for Debtors and Felons, are all upon this Bridge.

The Castle which stands at the Confluence of the Ouse, and the Foss, was built by William the Conqueror, Anno 1069; and tho' the Face it now wears, and the Use made of it, are so different from that which was the primitive State of this Fortress, yet in its present Disguise, it brought to my Memory that Tragical Scene of Bloodshed perpetrated within its Walls, upon the 11th of March 1189; which being to be met with in very few Historians, I shall give a brief Account of it.

The Jews, from their first Introduction into England, growing immensly rich by Traffick, never failed to become the Objects of Envy and Hatred, both to Prince and People, and the slightest Pretences were always eagerly laid hold of, to plunder them; so that on every new Accession or Turn of Affairs, they were forced to compound for their Safety, by large Presents to the Prince.

At the Accession of Richard I. tho' that Prince gave them no Disturbance, yet he issued out an Order, that no Jew should be present at the Ceremony of his Coronation, either at Church or at Dinner.

However the chief of the Jews, from all Parts, being summoned to London by their Brethren there, in order to agree upon a rich Gift to the new King to obtain his Favour and Protection, many of them, notwithstanding the Injunction, had the Curiosity to see the Ceremony; and being discovered among the Croud by the Guards, they were beat, abused, and some of them killed.

The People hereupon, being possessed with a Notion, that the King had given Orders, that the Jews 〈◊〉 be destroyed, began a Massacre of them in 〈◊〉, and plundered and burnt their Houses, and 〈◊〉 them many of their Wives and Children.

And tho' the King immediately ordered a Proclamation to stop these Proceedings, yet the Example at London was followed at Norwich, Lynn, and Stamford, and with still greater Fury at York, notwithstanding the King, at his Departure to the Holy Land, left Orders for the Protection of the Jews, and the Punishment of such as should molest them; for, being inflamed by a wicked Priest, certain bloody Wretches, who had resolved upon the Destruction of the Jews, and to inrich themselves with their Pillage, set Fire to a Part of the City of York; and while the Citizens were busy in extinguishing the Flames, broke into the House of a principal Jew, who had been murder'd at London, and whose Wife had strengthened it for her Defence; and murdering the whole Family, and all who had taken Refuge there, burnt the House to the Ground.

The Jews hereupon, in the utmost Terror, got Leave to convey all their Wealth into the Castle, and obtain'd Shelter there for their own Persons, and for their Wives and Children, except some few, who were sacrific'd to the Rage of the Populace; who burnt all the Houses of the Jews throughout the City.

It unluckily happen'd, that the Governor of the Castle having Business in the Town, the poor Jews, being afraid he went out to agree upon delivering them up to their Enemies, refused him Admittance into it; which incensing him, he apply'd to the High Sheriff, who raising the Posse Comitatus, besieged the Castle, and reduced the Jews to so great Extremity, that being refused Mercy, tho' they offer'd to buy it at the Expence of immense Sums, they took the dreadful Advice of one of their Rabbi's, come lately among them from abroad; and first having burnt all their rich Goods, and so damnify'd even their Plate, that their barbarous Enemies could not be much the better for their Spoils, they set Fire to all the Towers of the Castle, and fell each Man to cutting of the Throats of his own Family, till they had destroy'd all who came into this dreadful Scheme of their Rabbi's, who, in the last Place, followed the Advice he had given.

In the mean time, the Fire of the Castle increasing, a Number of unhappy Jews, who would not come into this bloody Action, (in vain endeavouring to extinguish it) from the Walls besought the Mercy of the Besiegers, acquainting them with what had happened; and threw over the dead Bodies of their Brethren, in Confirmation of the Truth of what they said; and offering to become Christians, had Hopes given them of their Lives: but no sooner did their merciless Enemies gain Admittance, than they butcher'd every one of the Jews, calling aloud for Baptism, in hopes of escaping their worse than Paganish Cruelty.

Not satisfy'd with this, the barbarous Robbers, as well as Murderers, ran next to the Cathedral, where were deposited the Bonds and other Securities of the Money owing to the Jews by the Christians, broke open the Chests, and destroyed them all.

There were 500 Men who took Shelter in the Castle, besides Women and Children. So that the whole Number of the Jews thus miserably slaughter'd, must be between 1000 and 1500, besides those who were massacred in the City.

We must do this Justice to the King, who was then in the Holy Land, that as soon as he heard of this unparalleled Proceeding, he was highly incensed, and sent Orders to the Bishop of Ely, his Chancellor and Regent, to go down in Person to York, and execute strict Justice, without Favour or Affection, on all Offenders. The Bishop came to the City, but the chief Authors of the Riot had fled to Scotland. However, the Citizens were laid under a large Fine, and the Sheriff and Governor of the Castle were removed from their Places, and committed to Prison; and the Soldiers concerned in the Fray were punished, and turned out of Service; but not one Man, either then or afterwards, was executed for the unheard-of Villainy.

The Strength of this Castle has been often experienced in Times of War, and become famous in History, upon Account of several memorable Events. We hope for the future there will never be occasion to make any other Use of it than to the same necessary Purpose, to which it is now converted, namely, a Prison; but a Prison the most stately and complete of any in the whole Kingdom, if not in Europe. The present Edifice was erected in the Year 1701. In the left Wing of the Building is a handsome Chapel, neatly adorned with suitable Furniture, and an Allowance of 40l. a Year is settled upon a Minister, for performing Divine Service, and Preaching to the Prisoners weekly; and such of the Debtors as attend at Sermons, are allowed each a large Loaf of fine Bread. The Justices of the Peace take great Care, that the Gaol shall be kept as neat within-side, as it is noble without. The Felons are allowed Straw, and their Beds are now raised from the Ground: and there is an Infirmary apart from the common Prison, to which the Sick are conveyed, and a Surgeon has an appointed Salary to attend them.

The Castle-yard is larger than the Areas of the Fleet or King's-Bench in London, and the Situation is so high, pleasant, and airy, that 'tis surprising any Prisoners should remove themselves by Habeas Corpus, to either of those Prisons, unless it be with a View of purchasing the Liberty of the Rules, because here they are never permitted to go without the Walls. Strangers, who visit the Inside of it, seldom depart without making a trifling Purchace of some of the small Manufactures the Prisoners work up for Subsistence.

The next Building we come to is the Assembly-room, for the Entertainment of the Nobility and Gentry, who reside at York during the Races. It was designed by the Earl of Burlington. That Part which is the Egyptian Hall, taken from a Draught of Palladio, is in Length 123 Feet, 40 broad, and rather more in Height. This Hall communicates with the common Ball-room, in Length 66 Feet, in Height and Breadth 22 Feet, besides other Rooms for Cards and Tea: all richly decorated and illuminated with magnificent Lustres. The Front to the Street is an exceeding fine Piece of Architecture; but the Egyptian Hall, if you except the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, may undoubtedly claim the Preference of any other Room in the Kingdom, if not in Europe. The Expence of this Edifice, amounting to several thousand Pounds, was defrayed by Subscriptions, chiefly among the Nobility and Gentry of the County, who contributed, some 50l. and none less than 25l.

In the Year 1728, a very handsome Mansion-house was erected for the Lord-Mayor; the Basement is a Rustick Arcade, which supports an Ionick Order, with a Pediment in it. There is a large Room the Length of the Front, 49 Feet by 29, so that this City has had the Honour to begin a Precedent for the City of London to copy after.

The Guild-Hall is a Building very well deserving Notice, as likewise are several other publick Edifices, which are equally useful and ornamental to this antient City.

But what exceeds all others in it, is the Cathedral Church, which for Magnificence of Structure challenges the Pre-eminence of all other Gothick Churches, not only in this Kingdom, but throughout Europe, if I may rely upon the Opinion of a Gentleman, with whom I viewed it, and who had seen the Churches at Strasburgh, Milan, and Notre Dame in Paris.

The City of Lincoln indeed contends with this of York, for a Preference to its Cathedral; and as this is a Point in which both Cities are very tenacious, I will distinguish the Particulars wherein each of them have the Advantage over the other, as I have promised in Page 6.

In the first Place then, Lincoln Cathedral has greatly the Advantage of York, in the Height of its Situation; and by different Accounts given by several Authors, of the Dimensions of both Churches, it appears Lincoln exceeds York in Length, from East to West, either 14, or 11, or three Feet and a half: in the middle Cross or Transept from North to South, five Feet; in the outward Breadth of the West End, by the Addition of two Chapels, as at St. Paul's, London, 53 Feet; in the Height of the West Towers and Spires 72 Feet; and of the middle Tower, including the Pinacles, 75 Feet.

York exceeds Lincoln in the Breadth of its middle Nef, and Side Ayles, within-side, 26 Feet; in the Height of the middle Nef to its Canopy, 17 Feet; and in the inside Height of the middle Lantern, 64 Feet and a half.

The Breadth of the West End of Lincoln will not the least avail in this Dispute, as it has so many egregious Defects, not to say Absurdities. The two Steeples are crouded together, instead of being placed at the Extremities of the Front, which by that means would have had an Appearance much more grand. They rise up above the Body of the Church, as if behind a Screen, without the least Affinity to any Part of the Building below. Their Ornaments are but mean, and the Leaden Spires upon them still meaner. The whole Front, extending in a strait Line, wants Boldness when viewed at some Distance; and there is such an Expansion of solid Wall, without Windows, or any sort of Aperture, as gives a Heaviness throughout. The cloistred Work, or Niches for Images, which is the chief ornamental Part of Gothick Structures, is disposed with a shameful Disregard to every thing like Design: in one Place, crouded with needless Profusion; in another, wanted to fill up, where now there is nothing but a naked and dead Space; and in the Ornaments the Fancy is so irregularly varied, that all kind of Connexion and Harmony is destroyed, so that the Building to Appearance has the same Effect, as if it were Pieces of different Structures patched up together.

The Plan of the Church is very irregular, the middle Transept from North to South having no Ayles on the West-side, to answer those on the East. The upper Transept, or double Cross, can never be considered as a beautiful Addition, especially since this, and the Eastern Parts beyond, are surrounded with Chapels and Vestries erected without Uniformity, and the Windows of the Church are meanly small, crouded, and out of Proportion.

'Tis to be observed, there is a great Resemblance between the Ground-plat of Lincoln, and that of Canterbury, and the one was certainly built after the Model of the other.

The only Defect objected to York, is, that the middle Tower or Lantern wants Height, and that the Cross or Transept, from North to South, is built in a different Style and Manner from the rest of the Cathedral. Both these must be admitted to be Faults; but, by the way, the middle Lantern is as lofty as the celebrated Towers of Canterbury and Gloucester, exclusive of their Pinacles, tho' not sufficiently high in proportion to its Breadth, being 70 Feet square, or to the Height of the Church. They have a Tradition in this City, that a Wooden Spire was once intended to have been raised upon this Tower; which in that Case would have exceeded the Height of Salisbury Steeple, as the present Battlements are higher by six Feet, and of a larger Square than the present Tower at Salisbury.

I am not sorry this Project failed, because 'tis obvious all Wooden Spires have a most wretched Aspect.

The only Amendment that can be made, would be to pull down the Bell-turret at one Corner, and to raise the Battlements about 20 Feet, piercing them thro' with proper Ornaments; and carry four Pinacles above them, about 20 Feet more.

However, this Building has two remarkable Beauties not to be found in any other Gothick Edifice; which are, that the Height and Breadth of the Nef and Side Ayles of the Church, and of all the Arches and Windows come very near, if not agree with, the Dimensions laid down by the established Rules of Roman Architecture; that the Span of the Roof; from East to West, rises very near equal to the modern Proportion; the excessive Height of the Roofs being the chief Blemishes in most Cathedrals, as may be seen at Lincoln, Salisbury, Westminster, and particularly Winchester.

The Plan of the whole Church is uniform, as well as the Superstructure, especially from East to West: the Windows are of a Size and Distance proper to the Magnitude of the Structure, and are admirable for their Workmanship; neither is it crouded and encumbered on the Outside by its Butresses, but every Part is inrich'd with Ornaments, which receive an additional Beauty from the Colour of the Stone, as it retains almost its original Whiteness.

Thus far what I have said of this Building in general was necessary, in comparing it with Lincoln. I will now take some Notice of its several Parts distinctly both within-side and without, beginning first at the Outside.

The West End, which is 124 Feet in Breadth, shews a Grandeur inexpressible; this Front contains two uniform Towers, diminished by several Contractions, all cloistred for Imagery, and inrich'd with other Ornaments. In the South Tower hangs a deep Peal of 12 Bells, the Tenor weighing 59 hundred Weight.

Between these Towers, over the principal Entrance into the Church, is a large Window, whose Tracery in Masons Work is of a Figure so beautiful, that it cannot be equalled any-where. The several Windows in the Towers are large, and their Tracery and Ornaments well fansied.

The South Entrance is ascended by several Courses of Steps, and Tradition assures us, there was once as great an Ascent to the West Door. Here a remarkable Spiral Turret is erected on the middle of the Pediment, and called the Fiddlers Turret, from an Image of a Fidler on the Top. Over the Door is a Dial both Horary and Solar, on each Side of which two Images strike the Quarters on two Bells.

In viewing the Building from this Part Eastward, we easily discerned it to be much newer than that Westward, tho' conformable to it.

The East Front is exceeding noble, and has the finest Window in the World.

The North Side is the same as the South: only a Wall is built to prevent Night-walkers, and other disorderly Persons, from nesting and intriguing in the obscure Corners of the Buttresses.

The Lantern Steeple, of which I have spoken already, is ornamented in a fine Taste, wanting nothing but a better Finishing at the Top: it has eight Windows, two on each Side, to give Light within; these Windows from Top to Bottom are 45 Feet high.

We now entered the Inside, at the West Door, opening into the middle Nef of the Church, under the largest Gothick Arch in Europe, which binds and supports the two Towers. The Nef is the most spacious of any in Europe, except St. Peter's at Rome; it exceeds the Dimensions of the Nef of St. Paul's Cathedral four Feet six Inches in Width, and 11 Feet in Height; and that of Westminster Abbey 16 Feet six Inches in Breadth, but its Height is two Feet less. This is an Instance of what I took Notice of before, with regard to the Justness of the Proportion of York Cathedral, and at the same time shews the Extravagance of that of Westminster Abbey, in this Particular. The Canopy at Top is inriched with curious Knots of Carving.

From thence we proceeded under the Middle Lantern, to a Stone Screen, that parts the Choir from the Body of the Church, adorned with curious Workmanship, among which are placed the Statues of the British Kings, from the Conquest, to Henry VI.

Over the Entrance into the Choir stands the Organ, having a double Front; it had before been removed from thence by King Charles I. to one Side, opposite to the Bishop's Throne. The Reason his Majesty gave for doing it, was, That it spoil'd the Prospect of the fine East Windows from the Body of the Church.

The Choir is adorned with antient Wood-work carved, and set up with Clusters of knotted Pinacles of different Heights. The Ascent from the Body of the Church, thro' the Choir to the Altar, is by a Gradation of 16 Steps. The Altar has lately received a considerable Improvement as to its Situation, and the whole Church in its Beauty, by taking away a large wooden Screen, which almost obstructed the View of the East Window. By this means it was carried one Arch farther back, to a Stone Screen of excellent Gothick Architecture; which now not only shews a Beauty in itself, before hid, but opens a View to one of the noblest Lights in the World, both for Masonry and Glazing; which is the aforementioned East Window.

This Window is 30 Feet Nine Inches broad, and 75 Feet high: the Upper-part is a Piece of fine Tracery, but, in my Opinion, not so beautiful as that at the West End. Below the Tracery are 117 Partitions, wherein are represented, in fine painted Glass, most of the History of the Bible. This Window was glazed in 1405, by one John Thornton, Glazier of Coventry; who received, for his own Work, 4s. a Week; and contracted to finish the Whole in Three Years.

In a circular Window, at the South End of the Church, is another fine Piece of Masonry, in the Form of a Wheel, called The Marygold Window, from its painted Glass, which resembles the Colour of that Flower. The North End has Five noble Lights: each constitute one large Window, and reach almost from Top to Bottom. There is a Tradition, that Five Maiden Sisters were at the Expence of these Lights. The Painting of the Glass represents a kind of Embroidery, or Mosaick Needle-work; which might perhaps give Occasion to the Story.

I ought not to omit mentioning, that all the Windows of the Church, except one or two, are adorned with painted Glass, representing the Sacred History, and the Portraitures of eminent Persons. This Painting was preserved at the Time of the Civil Wars, by the Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament's Army, who, at the Request of the Gentry and Citizens of York, placed a Guard of Soldiers about the Church for that Purpose.

The Body of the Church has been lately new paved, the Plan of which was drawn by that ingenious Architect Mr. Kent, under the Direction of the Earl of Burlington: the Figure is Mosaick, and properly adapted to a Gothick Building.

The Monuments in this Church are numerous, many of them very antient, and several very magnificent; but to enumerate them distinctly, would take up more Room than I can spare.

After taking this View of the Cathedral, we were conducted into the Chapter-house; a Building which, for a Gothick Piece, disdains to allow an Equal in the Universe, and well deserves the Encomium bestowed upon it, as is said, by a great Traveller, in an old Monkish Verse inscribed on the Wall, in Golden Letters, as follows:

Ut rosa phlos phlorum, sic est domus ista domorum.

'Tis an Octagon of 63 Feet Diameter. The Height to the Middle Knot of the Roof is 67 Feet ten Inches, unsupported by any Pillars, and intirely dependent upon one Pin geometrically placed in the Centre. The whole Roof has been richly painted, and the Knots of carved Work, gilt; but is now defaced and sullied by Time. Over the Roof is a Spire of Timber-work, covered with Lead, admired as a masterly Piece of Work in the Carpenter's Art. The Eight Squares of the Octagon have each a Window beautifully adorned, and imbellished with painted Glass.

The next Place we saw was the Vestry-room; its Dimensions 44 Feet by 22: wherein are kept several Antiquities, particularly the famous Horn so called, made of an Elephant's Tooth; which is indeed the greatest Piece of Antiquity the Church can exhibit, and to which they ought to pay a high Veneration, on Account of the Benefit they reap, from the Act that it witnessed to. The Account Camden gives of it, is; "That Ulphus the Son of Toraldus, who governed in the West Parts of Deira, by reason of a Difference likely to happen betwixt his eldest Son and his youngest, about his Lordship, when he was dead, presently took this Course: Without Delay he went to York, and taking the Horn, wherein he was wont to drink, with him, he filled it with Wine; and kneeling before the Altar, bestowed upon God, and the blessed St. Peter, all his Lands."

The Lands are still called de Terra Ulphi. The Horn was imagined to have been quite lost; but Thomas Lord Fairfax was the Occasion of its being preserved. Where it had lain, or where he got it, is uncertain; but stripp'd of its Golden Ornaments, it was restored by his Successor. The Chapter thought fit to decorate it anew, and bestowed the following Inscription, to the Memory of the Restorer, upon it: ‘CORNU HOC ULPHUS IN OCCIDENTALI PARTE
DEIRAE PRINCEPS, UNA CUM OMNIBUS TERRIS
ET REDDITIBUS SUIS, OLIM DONAVIT.
AMISSVM, VEL ABREPTVM,
HENRICUS DOM. FAIRFAX DEMVM RESTITVIT.
DEC. ET CAPIT. DE NOVO ORNAVIT,
A. D. M.DC.LXXV.’

I will now conclude my Account of this noble Pile of Building, with the Character given of it (as Mr. Camden informs us) by Aeneas Sylvius, afterwards Pope Pius II. "It is, says he, famous for its Magnificence and Workmanship, all the World over, but especially for a fine lightsome Chapel, with shining Walls, and small thin wasted Pillars quite round."

The South Side of the Church is inriched by a Library, to which Archbishop Matthews's Widow was a great Benefactress. A Bishop was her Father, and an Archbishop her Father-in-law; she had Four Bishops for her Brethren, and an Archbishop for her second Husband.

The Bishop had a Palace in the Minster-yard, where great Hospitality was wont to be kept; but it has been long since leased out. And to shew the wondrous Change of Times, one End of it is now converted into a Dancing-school, and the other into a Play-house.

In the Archbishop's Register and Prerogative Office, is a noble Repository of antient Ecclesiastick Records, bearing Date 93 Years earlier than any at Lambeth or Canterbury.

The Church of All-Saints in the Pavement is a beautiful old Church, with a Gothick Steeple of exquisite Workmanship. Upon the Tower is a fine Lantern (with Pinacles of a considerable Height) not much unlike that of Boston in Lincolnshire.

St. Margaret's Church has one of the most extraordinary Porches I ever saw. It is a most sumptuous and elaborate Piece of Gothick Architecture, with our Saviour on the Cross on the Top of it: but what seems still more surprising is, that they say it did not originally belong to the Church, but was brought hither from the dissolved Hospital of St. Nicolas.

St. Mary's in Castle-gate is admired for a pyramidical Steeple; as Christ's Church is for a very fine modern one.

In the Month of August 1738, a Subscription was set on Foot for an Infirmary in this City, like those begun at London, Winchester, &c. which we have mentioned. And this excellent Charity has found much Encouragement and Support here.

A Manufacture of Cotton is lately established in this City, and is arrived at a very great Perfection; and I could not but be greatly pleased, when I was there last, to see a very handsome Procession made on this Occasion, viz. on May-day 1740, at which Time Mr. Clough, the Master of the Manufactory, together with the several Artificers concern'd therein, marched thro' the City in the following manner, preceded by the City Musick; viz. There were Three Stages borne, each by Six Porters: On the first Stage were the Teazer, Carder, Rover, Spinner, and Reeler of the Cotton-wool. On the second, the Bleecher and Winder of the Linen-yarn. On the third, the Quill-winder and Weaver. Each Person exercising their several Branches, from the picking of the Wool to the finishing the Cloth. The Men, Women and Children, imploy'd in the Manufactory, closed the Procession, all of them cloathed with Cottons, or striped and figured Fustians of their own making, provided for them by the generous Contributions of the Citizens.

This Manufactory being so well fix'd and establish'd in so short a time, is principally owing to the great Encouragement given by the City, who are determin'd to spare no Pains or Expences to support it. The Bells in the Cathedral, and in all the Parish Churches, rung the whole Time of the Procession.

The City of York stands upon more Ground, perhaps, than any in England, except London and Norwich; but then the Buildings are not so close as at Bristol or Durham, nor is it so populous as either Bristol or Norwich. But as York is full of Gentry, and Persons of Distinction, so they have Houses proportioned to their Quality, which makes the City lie so far extended on both Sides of the River.

While we were here, we took one Day's Time to see the fatal Field, called Marston Moor, where Prince Rupert, a third time, by his Excess of Valour, and Defect of Conduct, lost the Royal Army, and had a Victory wrung out of his Hands, after he had all the Advantage he could desire.

I made another Excursion to the Duke of Leeds's House at Kiveton, then to the Earl of Carlisle's called Castle Howard, and the Earl of Burlington's at Lanesborough in the East-riding.

Carlisle-house, or Castle Howard, is in the Middle of a Wood, which is as great a Wonder in its Kind▪ as Mr. Aislabie's Park. The House is of a vast Extent▪ and tho' it makes a fine Appearance at a Distance▪ yet will it not bear a critical Examination of the Architecture, when viewed near. There goes a Story, That the Architect was so sensible of his Errors in one of the Fronts, that he would fain have persuaded the late Earl of Carlisle to pull it down again. The Whole is not yet finished.

The Earl of Burlington's in an old-built House, most advantageously situated on a rising Ground, with a noble Prospect as well towards the Humber, as towards the Woulds.

I passed likewise thro' the Forest of Galtres, a little North of the City. It is in some Places very thick of Trees, and in others very moorish and boggy: it formerly extended to the very Gates of the City, but now 'tis much lessen'd; and several considerable Villages are built in it.

Having mentioned so many Forests, you'll undoubtedly conclude, there is no want of Firing in this County. 'Tis very true; for here is not only Wood enough, but Coal too; which is a very great Comfort to the Poor, against the Inclemency of this cold Northern Climate, which indeed has very great need of Firing.

At Hambleton-down are the Races, where the King's Plate of an hundred Guineas is run for once a Year, by Five-Year-Olds; a Gift no-where better bestowed than on that County, which is so famous for breeding of Horses for the rest of the Kingdom.

From York we enter'd again into the West-riding, and, travelling due West, we came to Wetherby, upon the River Aire, which we omitted to take in our Course as we passed by this River in our former Journey, being then more out of our Way than here. It is a good Trading Town, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Some Miles farther to the South stands Tadcaster, upon the South Side of the River Wherfe, where the Road from Chester, and that from Cambridge to York, meet; and is consequently well provided for the Reception of Travellers. It is principally noted for Lime-stones, and a fine Stone Bridge over the River. But it has nothing that we could see to testify the Antiquity it boasts of, but some old Roman Coins, which our Landlord the Post-master shewed us, among which was one of Domitian, of the same Kind, I believe, as that which Mr. Camden gives an Account of; but so very much defaced with Age, that we could read but DO, and AV, at a Distance. Here is the Hospital and School still remaining, founded by Dr. Oglethorp, Bishop of Carlisle, who, for want of a Protestant Archbishop, set the Crown on the Head of Queen Elizabeth; but she afterwards, notwithstanding that Circumstance, deprived him.

Here also we saw plainly the Roman Causway, which I have before-mentioned at Aberforth; and a stately Stone Bridge over the Wherfe.

Mr. Camden gives us a Distich of a learned Passenger upon this River, and the old Bridge at Tadcaster. I suppose he passed it in a dry Summer.

Nil, Tadcaster, habes Musis vel carmine dignum,

Praeter magnifice structum fine fiumine pontem.

In English thus:

Nought, Tadcaster, can thee to Fame bequeath,

But a proud Bridge—with ne'er a Stream beneath.

But I can assure you to the contrary of this; for tho', when I travelled this Way, it was about the Middle of June, I found the River pretty full.

On this Road we passed over Towton, that famous Field, where a most cruel and bloody Battle was fought between the Two Houses of Lancaster and York, in the Reign of Edward IV. I call it most cruel and bloody, because the Animosity of the Par¦ties was so great, that tho' they were Countrymen and Neighbours, nay, as History says, Relations (for here Fathers killed their Sons, and Sons their Fathers) for some time they fought with such Obstinacy and Rancour, that they gave no Quarter. 'Tis certain such Numbers were never slain in one Battle in England, since that fought between King Harold and William the Conqueror, at Battle in Sussex; for here fell in the Whole 36000 Men, and the Yorkists proved victorious.

Tradition guided us to the very Spot; but there remain no visible Marks of the Action. The Ploughmen indeed say, that sometimes they turn up Arrow-heads, Spear-heads, broken Javelins, Helmets, and the like.

Farther South still, or rather South-east, on the Road to Doncaster, stands Shirbourn, a pretty good Town, famous for a well endow'd Hospital, erected by one Hungate a Protestant, for the Maintenance at Bed, Board and Cloathing, &c. of Children from Seven till Fifteen Years old; when, according to their Genius and Capacity, some are sent to the University, or apprenticed out to Trades; for which there is a Provision, which, including the Maintenance of the Hospital, amounts to 250l. a Year. A noble and well chosen Piece of Charity.

We turned East to Selby, situate on the South Side of the Ouse, a small Market-town, but very well inhabited, and is famous for giving Birth to our Henry I. The Conqueror built an Abbey here,

We then fell down directly South, and came to Snath upon the Aire; which is but an inconsiderable Town; but, like Selby, has a pretty good Trade. I should have mention'd, that there are several Merchants that live at Selby; and that the Ouse is navigable up to the Town for large Vessels, and has a good Share of Trade that Way.

We fell down still lower South, to Thorn on the River Dun, an indifferent Town, of no other Not•… than its Situation within the Marshes; which is called Marsh-land Island; for it is incompassed by the Dun, the Aire, the Ouse, and another little River, which parts it from the Isle of Axholm, on the Edge of Lincolnshire, already spoken of; so that these Two River Islands are contiguous.

Being now come to the Banks of the Ouse, near the Influx of the Trent into the Humber, I shall, after reminding you, that I have now accomplished another Part of the Proposition in my last Letter, cross over the Ouse to Howdon.

Howdon lies on the Ouse North, in the Eastriding of Yorkshire. It is a pretty large Town, and is subject to great Inundations from the River, occasioned by the Freshes which come down from the Woulds; and has been so, it seems, ever since 1390; when a Bishop of Durham built a very tall Steeple to the Church, that in case of a sudden Inundation, the People might save themselves in it. And there have been, within these few Years, several Commissions for Repairing the Banks.

The Fair, or Mart, held here for Eight Days together, is very considerable for Inland Trade, and several Wholesale Tradesmen come to it from London. But the Town is more famous for the Birth or Residence of one of our antient Historians, Roger of Hoveden, or Howdon, a Monk of this Abbey. Mr. Camden's Continuator is mistaken, in saying this Town stands upon the Derwent; for it is above Three Miles South-east of it; tho' the Derwent was made navigable, pursuant to Act of Parliament, 1 Annae, to the Ouse.

The Bishop of Durham has a Temporal Jurisdiction in this Part of the Country, which is called Howdonshire.

I found nothing in this low Part of the Country but a wonderful Conflux of great Rivers, all pouring down into the Humber, which receiving the Aire, the Ouse, the Dun, and the Trent, becomes rather a Sea than a River.

I observed, that the Middle of this Division of Yorkshire is very thin of Towns and People, being overspread with Woulds, which are Plains and Downs, like those of Salisbury, which feed great Numbers of Sheep, Black Cattle, and Horses, and produce Corn. The Northern Part, especially, is more mountainous, which makes Part of the North-riding. But the East and West Parts are populous and rich, and full of Towns, the one lying on the Sea Coast, and the other upon the River Derwent, as above. The Sea Coast, or South-east Side, is called Holderness.

From hence we travelled North-east up to Wighton, being but a very little out of the Way to Beverley. It is a small, but antient Market-town, seated on the Banks of a little River called Foulness. Here are some Roman as well as British Antiquities. 'Tis supposed to be the Delgovitia Station of the Romans, from the British Word Ddelw or Delgive, signifying Image. Some have conjectured, that here has been a Temple of the Druids, and that their Groves were in the Wood of Dierwald, which they interpret as derived from the British Word Derwen, an Oak.

On the North-west of Wighton towards the Derwent, stands the Market-town of Pocklington, which we were told was so inconsiderable, that it would not be worth our while to go so much out of our Way to see it. So keeping on East under the Woulds, we arrived at Beverley, which is situate just at the Foot of them, about a Mile from the River Hull. It is a large populous corporate Town, under the Government of a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It takes its Name from the great Number of Beavers, with which that River abounded. It had formerly a considerable Trade, by means of a Creek, or Cut, commonly called Beverley-beck, of old made from the Town to the River Hull, which runs into the Humber, for the Passage of Ships and Boats, Keels, Wherries, Hoys, &c. to and from the said Town; and as it had likewise divers Staiths or Landing-places adjoining to the said Beech, for the Lading and Unlading of all sorts of Merchandize, the Town was wont to receive no small Advantage from this Cut or River. But there being no settled Fund for keeping it open, and cleansing it, and the Expence of doing it being beyond the Ability of the Corporation, the said Beck was, in time, choaked up, and the Staiths grew out of Repair; whence an Act passed, Anno 1727, for Cleansing, Deepening and Widening the Creek, and for Repairing the Staiths, and for Mending the Roads leading from the said Cut to the Town; and at the same time providing for the Cleansing of the Town itself: all which has had a very good Effect; for before, the Creek lying in the lower Part of the Town, th• Filth, Dirt, and Soil of the Town was washed int• it, which very much contributed to choak it up.

Beverley is the chief Town of the East-riding, and began to be of great Note from the Time that John of Beverly, Archbishop of York, the first Doctor of Divinity in Oxford, and Preceptor to Venerable Bede, built a Monastery here, and afterwards retired into it himself, where he died A. D. 721. King Athelstan, having made a Vow at the Altar of St. John, before he proceeded against the Scots, in his Return, A. D. •30. instituted a new College of Secular Canons, and granted to the Town many Immunities; particularly, to the Freemen of it, an Exemption from all manner of Tolls, which was afterwards confirmed by King Henry I. and by all or most of the Kings and Queens of this Realm to this Time, as the Mayor's Certificate expresses it; which he gives to such Freemen as apply for it, in the Form following:

Villa de Beverley in Com' Ebor. ss.
To all Persons to whom these Presents shall come, A. B. Esq Mayor of the aforesaid Town of Beverley, sendeth greeting.

KNow ye that King Athelstan, of famous Memory, did grant, and also King Henry the First did grant and confirm to the Men of the said Town of Beverley, and afterwards to them, by the Name of the Governors, or Keepers and Burgesses of Beverley, an Exemption of all manner of Imposts, Toll, Tallage, Stallage, Tunnage, Lastage, Pickage, Wharsage, and of and from all and every the like Exactions, Payments and Duties, throughout and in all Places whatsoever, by Sea and Land, within all their Dominions of England and Wales. Which said Grants were confirmed by all or most of the succeeding Kings and Queens, to the Time of Queen Elizabeth, who confirmed the same to them by the Name of the Mayor, Governors and Burgesses of Beverley, with several Grants, which have been also confirmed by all or most of the Kings and Queens of this Realm, till this Time; as by many and sundry Charters under their Great Seals, more at large may appear. These are therefore to certify, that C. D. is a Burgess of the said Town of Beverley, and is therefore discharged of and from all and every the said Exactions, Payments and Duties. In Testimony whereof the said Mayor hath hereunto subscribed his Name, and caused the Common Seal of the said Town, used in this Behalf, to be affixed this — Day, &c.

By these, and the like Privileges, the Town keeps up its flourishing Condition, notwithstanding it is within Six Miles of so powerful a Rival as Hull. It has all the Advantage, indeed, of a good Situation, to invite Gentlemen to reside in it; and being the nearest Town of Note to the Centre of this Riding, the Sessions are always held here, in a spacious and beautiful Hall, which has a publick Garden and Walks, not inferior to any of their kind in England. In this Hall-garth, as it is called, is a handsome Register-office for Deeds and Wills within this Division; which is the only County in England, besides Middlesex, which has such a Registry; to the great Reproach of the Nation be it said, especially when it shall be remembered, that no less than two Bills (one for a Registry for the County of Surrey, and another, after that, for a General Registry over the whole Kingdom) were respectively opposed, and miscarried very lately in Parliament.

Here are Two weekly Markets; one on Wednesdays, for Cattle; the other on Saturdays, for Corn. The Market-place is as large as most, having a beautiful Cross, supported by Eight Free-stone Columns, of one intire Stone each, erected at the Charge of Sir Charles Hotham, and Sir Michael Wharton; upon which was this Inscription: ‘HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA FREED-STOOLE DICITUR, i. e. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD QUAM REVS FVGIENDO PERVENIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECVRITATEM.’ That is: ‘This Stone Seat is called Freed-Stoole, or Chair of Peace; to which, if any Criminal flee, he shall have full Protection.’

The Common Gaol has been lately re-edified at a considerable Expence, the Windows well sashed; and, as if Works of Piety were more peculiarly adapted to this Place, there are Seven Alms-houses in the Town, and Legacies left for Two more; besides a Work-house, which has cost 700l. It has a Free-school, to the Scholars of which are appropriated Two Fellowships at St. John's College in Cambridge, and Nine Exhibitions.

Here were formerly Four Churches, now only Two, but the largest and finest Parochial ones in the Kingdom: viz. the late Collegiate Church of St. John the Evangelist, still called the Minster, and St. Mary's. The Minster being very ruinous, a Brief was procured for the Repair of it in the Year 1710; the Produce of which, and the Subscription Money, being placed in the publick Funds, was farther augmented by the Rise of South-Sea Stock, which enabled the prudent Managers to complete their pious Design in the most beautiful manner, assisted by the Advice of that noted Architect Nicolas Hawksmore, Esq King George I. encouraged this Work not only by a liberal Donation of Money, but of Stone likewise from the dissolved Monastery of St. Mary's in York. Sir Michael Wharton gave in his Life-time 500l. and by Will 4000l. as a perpetual Fund towards keeping it in Repair.

The Choir is paved with Marble of Four different Colours, Lozenge-wise, appearing cubical to the Eye. Over the Altar is a large and magnificent wooden Arch curiously engraven, standing upon Eight fluted Columns of the Corinthian Order. The Altar-table is one intire Stone of white Marble, finely polished; the Gift of Mr. Moyser. The East Window is of painted Glass, collected out of the several Windows about the Church; but so artfully joined, that they make throughout one regular and intire Figure. The Screen between the Choir and the Nef has been lately rebuilt of Roch-abbey Stone in the Gothick Style, and is deservedly esteemed one of the chief Ornaments of the Church. The Body of the Church is paved with the said Stone intermixed with black Marble. The Pulpit, Reading-desk, and Cover of the Font, are all new, and of excellent Workmanship: the Galleries also are new, and beautifully finished, supported by Columns of the Dorick Order. But not the least surprising Thing in this Pile, is the North End Wall of the great cross Ayle, which hung over Three Feet and a half, but was screwed up to its proper Level by the ingenious Contrivance of Mr. Thornton of York, who prepared an admirable Machine for the Purpose.

On the 13th of September, Anno 1664, upon opening a Grave, they met with a Vault of square Free Stone 15 Feet long, and Two Feet broad: within it was a Sheet of Lead Four Feet long, and in that the Ashes, and Six Beads, (whereof Three crumbled to Dust with a Touch; of the Three remaining, Two were supposed to be Cornelian) with Three great Brass Pins, and Four large Iron Nails. Upon the Sheet lay a leaden Plate, with this Inscription, in Capital Letters: ‘ Anno ab Incarnatione Domini MCLXXXVIII. com •••… fuit haec Ecclesia in mense Septembri, in sequenti 〈◊〉 post festum sancti Matthaei apostoli. Et in Anno MCXCVII. sexto idus Martii, facta fuit inquisitio retiquiarum beati Joannis in hoc loco; et inventa sunt haec ossa in orientali parte sepulchri, et hic recondita, et pulvis cemento mixtus ibidem inventus est et reconditus. ’ Thus English'd: ‘In the Year of the Lord's Incarnation 1188, in September, the Night after the Festival of St. Matthew the Apostle, this Church was consumed by Fire: and in the Year 1197, on the 10th of March, Search was made for the Reliques of St. John in this Place; and these Bones were found in the Eastern Part of the Sepulchre, and here deposited; and a Mixture of Dust and Mortar was found in the same Place, and deposited.’

Over this lay a Box of Lead about Seven Inches long, Six broad. and Five deep, wherein were several Pieces of Bones mixed with a little Dust, and yielding a sweet Smell. All these Things were carefully re-interred in the Middle Ayle of the Body of the Minster, with this Inscription added, in Capital Letters: ‘ Reliquiae eaedem effossae, et ibidem compositae, fornice lateritio dignabantur XXVI. die mensis Martii, Anno Domini MDCCXXVI; quando v. tesselatum ecclesiae hujus pavimentum primo fuit instauratum. ’ Thus English'd: ‘The same Reliques which were dug up, and replaced, were adorned with an Arch of Brick-work, on the 26th Day of March 1726; when the Fifth tesselated Pavement of this Church was first repaired.’

Over it, directly upon the Roof, is an Inscription, to shew where the Reliques are interr'd.

In this Church are several Monuments of the Piercies, Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little Chapel to the Choir. On the Right Side of the Altar-place stands the Freed-stool, mentioned above, made of one intire Stone, and said to have been removed from Dunbar in Scotland, with a Well of Water behind it. At the upper End of the Body of the Church, next the Choir, hangs an antient Table with the Picture of St. John the Evangelist, (from whom the Church is named) and of King Athelstan, the Founder of it, and between them this Distich:

Als free make I thee,

As Heart can wish, or Egh can see.

In the Body of the Church stands an antient Monument, which they call the Virgins Tomb; because Two Virgin Sisters lay buried there, who gave the Town a Piece of Land, into which any Freeman may put Three Milch Kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower End of the Body of the Church, stands a fair large Font of Agat Stone.

The principal Trade of the Town is making Malt, Oat-meal, and tann'd Leather; but the poor People mostly support themselves by working Bone-lace, which of late has met with particular Encouragement, the Children being maintained at School to learn to read, and to work this Sort of Lace. The Clothing-trade was formerly followed in this Town; but Leland tells us, that even in his Time it was very much decayed.

They have several Fairs, but one more especially remarkable, called the Mart, beginning about Nine Days before Ascension-day, and kept in a Street leading to the Minster Garth, called Londoners-street; for the Londoners bring down their Wares, and furnish the Country Tradesmen by Wholesale.

About a Mile from Beverly to the East, in a Pasture belonging to the Town, is a kind of Spaw, tho' they say it cannot be judged by the Taste, whether it comes from any Mineral, or not; yet taken inwardly, it is a great Drier, and bathed in, dries scorbutick Scurf, and all Sorts of Scabs, and also very much helps against the King's Evil.

From Beverley I came to Hull (properly called Kingston upon Hull) Distance Six Miles. If you would have an Idea of Hamburgh, Dantzick, Rotterdam, or any of the second Cities abroad, which are famed for their Commerce, you may visit this Town. It is not indeed so large as those; but, in proportion to the Dimensions of it, I believe more Business is done in Hull, than in any Town in Europe. Liverpoole of late comes very near it; but it has not the Advantage of a London Trade, which Hull has.

In the last War, the Fleets from Hull to London were frequently 100 Sail; sometimes, including the other Creeks in the Humber, 160 Sail at a time; and to Holland their Trade was so considerable, that the Dutch always imployed Two Men of War to convoy the Merchant-men to and from Hull, and those were as many as they sent to London.

In a word, all the Trade at Leeds, Wakefield, and Halifax, of which I have spoken so particularly, is negotiated here. All the Lead Trade of Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire, from Bautry Wharf; the Butter of the East and North-riding brought down the Ouse to York; the Cheese down the Trent from Stafford, Warwick, and Cheshire; and the Corn, from all the Counties adjacent, are shipped off here.

So again, they supply all these Countries with foreign Goods, for which they trade to all Parts of the known World; nor have the Merchants of any Port in Britain greater Credit, or a fairer Character, than the Merchants of Hull, as well for the Justice of their Dealings, as the Greatness of their Substance. From Norway, and the Baltick, Dantzick, Riga, Narva, and Petersburg, they make large Returns in Iron, Copper, Hemp, Flax, Canvas, Muscovy Linen and Yarn, and other Things; all which they get Vend for in the Country in prodigious Quantities. They have also a great Importation of Wine, Linen, Oil, Fruit, &c. from Holland, France, and Spain. The Trade of Tobacco and Sugars from the West-Indies, they chiefly manage by the Way of London. But besides all this, their Export of Corn, as well to London as to Holland and France, exceeds all of the Kind that is or can be at any Port in England, London excepted.

Their Shipping is a great Article, in which they exceed all the Towns and Ports on that Coast, except Yarmouth, saving that their Shipping consists chiefly in smaller Vessels than the Coal-trade is supplied with, tho' they have a great many large Vessels too, which are imployed in their foreign Trade.

The Town is situated at the Mouth of the River Hull, where it falls into the Humber, and where the Humber opens into the German Ocean; so that one Side of the Town lies upon the Sea, the other upon the Land. This makes the Situation naturally very strong; and, were there occasion, it is capable of being made impregnable, by reason of the low Grounds round it.

The Advantages of this Situation struck King Edward I. as he was riding a hunting, after his Return from the Defeat of the Scots in the Year 1296. Upon which he immediately granted several Privileges and Immunities to those who would build and settle here, erected a Manor-hall himself, and fitted up an Harbour, from whence it received the Name of Kings-town. It held out against King Charles I. who went in Person to demand it, when Sir John Hotham told his Majesty, "He kept it for the Parliament against him." Yet both the Hothams. viz. Father and Son, lost their Heads by that very Parliament.

King Charles II. on occasion of the frequent Dutch Wars in his Reign, had once resolved to appoint a Station for a Squadron of Men of War here, with a Yard and Dock for building Ships; and on this Occasion, resolved to make the Place strong in proportion to what those Affairs required: upon which a large Citadel was marked out on the other Side of the River; but it was never finished.

The Town is exceeding close built, and populous, even to an Inconvenience, having really no room to extend itself by Buildings. There are but Two Churches, Trinity and St. Mary's; the former is very large, in which is a fine Altar-piece by Parmentier; the latter is thought to have been once larger than it is. King Henry VIII. used it as his Chapel Royal, and with the same Freedom; for this Defender of the Faith, and Protector of the Church, pulled down the Steeple, because it stood opposite to the Place where he resided. The Inhabitants afterwards built it up again at their own Expence.

They shew us still, in their Town-hall, the Figure of a Northern Fisherman, supposed to be of Greenland. He was taken up at Sea in a Leathern Boat, which he sat in, and was covered with Skins, which drew together about his Waist, so that the Boat could not take in Water, and he could not sink. The Creature would neither feed, nor speak, and so died.

They have a very handsome Exchange here, where the Merchants from foreign Countries, and others from the different Parts of the Kingdom, meet, as at London. The Business arising from the Navigation of all the great Rivers which fall into the Humber, is transacted here. There is also a fine Free-school founded by John Alcock, Bishop of Worcester, afterwards of Ely, who was born at Beverley, but chose to extend his Liberality to this Place. Over the School is the Merchant's Hall.

But the Trinity House here is the Glory of the Town. It is a Corporation of itself, composed of a Society of Merchants. It was begun by voluntary Contribution for Relief of distressed and aged Seamen, and their Wives or Widows; but was afterwards improved by the Government, and incorporated. They have a very good Revenue, which increases every Day by Charities.

They maintain 30 Sisters now actually in the House, Widows of Seamen. They have a Government by 12 Elder Brethern and Six Assistants. Out of the 12 they chuse annually Two Wardens, (but the whole 18 vote in electing them) and Two Stewards. These have a Power to decide Disputes between Masters of Ships and their Crews, in Matters relating to Sea Affairs; and with this Limitation, that their Judgment be not contrary to the Laws of the Land; but so great Deference is paid to it, that in Trials at Law in such Affairs, they are often called to give their Opinions.

Here is a noble Stone Bridge over the River Hull, consisting of 14 Arches. A Greenland Fishery, set up in this Town, went on with Success for a while, but it decayed in the Time of the Dutch Wars; and the House built by the Greenland Merchants is now turned into Granaries for Corn, and Warehouses for other Goods.

The old Hospital, call'd GOD'S HOUSE, stands near it, with a Chapel; both which were pulled down in the Civil Wars 1643, but were rebuilt in 1673; and the Arms of the de la Poles, being found among the Ruins, were placed over the Door of the Hospital, with this Inscription: ‘DEO ET PAVPERIBVS POSVIT
MICHAEL DE LA POLE, 1384.’

This Michael was the Son of William de la Pole, sometime a Merchant at Ravenspurn, formerly a flourishing Town of Trade at the Mouth of the Humber; but being removed to this new Town of Kingston, in the Time of Edward III. gave that King a magnificent Entertainment, when, in the Sixth Year of his Reign, he came to take a View of the Place; upon which our Merchant was knighted. The King afterwards, going into Flanders against the French, met Sir William at Antwerp, where he supplied him with several Thousands of Pounds, and even mortgaged his Estate for his Royal Master's Use. Such Services could not go unrewarded from so generous, and so successful a Prince. He made him Knight Banneret in the Field, settled on him and his Heirs Lands at Kingston to the Value of 500 Marks a Year, and upon his Return into England increased them to 1000, and advanced him in Time to be Chief Baron of the Exchequer.

Sir William died about 1356, after he had begun a Monastery here for the Carthusians. His Son, Sir Michael, who, 6 Richard II. was made Lord Chancellor, not only finished it, but founded likewise the Hospital called GOD'S HOUSE, above-mentioned. He built moreover a stately Palace, called the Duke of Suffolk's, which Honour he obtained in Right of his Wife Elizabeth, eldest Daughter of Sir John Wingfield, who married the Heiress of Gilbert Granville, Earl of Suffolk. But the Happiness of him, and his Family, being now arrived to the Height, set in Misfortunes; for in the Year 1388, he was impeached of High Treason, and fled for his Life into France, where he died. William de la Pole was Prime Minister to King Henry VI. and suspected to be too familiar with his heroick Queen. He was impeached by the Commons, Anno 1450, and banished; but his Head was struck off by the Management of his Enemies, as soon as he set his Foot on the French Shore.

John de la Pole married the Sister of King Edward IV. and so became allied to Royal Blood, and, by that means, exposed to various Misfortunes; and the famous Cardinal Polé, who flourished in the Reign of Queen Mary I. descended from that Marriage.

Here are a great many other Hospitals besides, and likewise a Work-house, and a good Free-school.

Tho' this Town, and a small adjacent Territory, be generally reckoned in Yorkshire, yet 'tis really a distinct Liberty and County of itself, governed by a Mayor, a Sheriff, 12 Aldermen, &c. The Corporation has Two Swords, one a Present from King Richard II. and the other from King Henry VIII. one of which is, on publick Occasions, carried before the Mayor, and a Cap of Maintenance, and Oar of Lignum-vitae, as Ensigns of Honour, the last being also a Badge of his Admiralty within the Limits of the Humber.

Farther East from Hull is a little pleasant Corporate and Mayor-town, called Heydon; 'tis handsome, well-built, and hath a little Haven from the Sea, which increases daily.

The Sea incroaches much upon the Land on all the Shore about this Town; and 'tis said, that many large Fields, as well as Towns, which have been formerly known to have been there, have been wash'd away and lost.

History tells us, that a Town called Ravensburgh stood somewhere this way; and 'tis memorable for Baliol King of Scotland having set out thence to recover his Kingdom against Bruce; and also for the Landing of Henry IV. when Duke of Hereford, and the Reception he met with there from the English Nobility, against Richard II. and yet there are no Vestigia or Traces of this Town to be now met with.

The Spurn Head, a long Promontory thrusting out into the Sea, and making the North Point of Humber, is very remarkable. But I leave that till I come to the Description of the Sea Coasts. I can only observe, that there is nothing worth Observation upon this Side for above 30 Miles together, not a Port, not a Gentleman's Seat, not a Town of any Note, except Patrington, which is a very antient corporate Town, and very pleasantly seated within the Promontory, and had likewise formerly a good Harbour: on one Side it looks into the Humber, and on the other over sweet delicious green Fields, which renders its Situation very agreeable. It is supposed to be the Praetorium of Ptolemy. The Roman Way from the Picts Wall ends here, as indeed it can hardly go further, unless it should extend to Kelnsey, a little Village standing at the Head of the Promontory.

Spurnhead is likewise supposed to be the Occellum of Ptolemy, deriv'd from the British Word Y•hell, which signifies a high Place on the East-side of this Promontory, on the German Sea. The Villages lie very thick, but I met with nothing of Note till we came up to Hornsey, which is almost surrounded with a little Arm of the Sea. The Steeple here is a notable Sea-mark, but is much fallen into Ruin. Here was a whole Street wash'd away by the Sea, as, 'tis said, a Village called Hide was, a little to the North, as well as many other Villages on this Coast.

North-west of Hornsey, some Distance from the Sea, stands Kilham, a Market-town in the Woulds, but of no Note.

We next come to Burlington, or Birdlington, a good large Market-town, situate on a Creek of the Sea. It is a Place of good Trade, and has a safe Harbour for Ships, and a good Quay to load and unload them. It is much frequented by the Colliers. The Harbour is made still better, and yet improving, by virtue of several Acts of Parliament passed for Repair of its Piers, the last of which, inforcing the former, and supplying Defects, was in 1723. Here William of Newborough, (a Village just by) one of our Historians, was a Canon Regular, and resided, when he fell so violently upon Geoffrey of Monmouth's History, and treated him very abusively, which Leland blames him very much for, as irreverent and uncharitable to a Bishop after his Death. It seems there was a personal Enmity between William and some of Geoffrey's Family; tho' the last is in no wise to be justified in some of his fictitious Assertions, no more than the other is for absolutely denying there was such a Man as King Arthur, and that the Ground at Battle Abbey, where Harold was slain in fighting against the Conqueror, always sweats Blood after Rain.

The Country People told us a Story here of Gipsies, which visit them often in a surprising Manner. We were strangely amused with their Discourse at first, forming our Ideas from the Word, which, in ordinary Signification with us, denotes a Sort of str•…lling Vagabonds. But we were soon made to understand, that the People meant by them certain Streams of Water, which at different Seasons (for none knows when they will happen) gush out of the Earth with great Violence and Noise, spouting up to a great Height, being natural Jette d' Eaux, or Fountains, which afterwards joining together, form little Rivers, and so hasten to the Sea. I had not time to examine into the Particulars; and as the Irruption was not just then to be seen, we could say little to it. That which was most observable to us, was, that the Country People have a Notion, that whenever those Gipsies, or, as some call them, Vipsies, break out, there will certainly ensue either Famine or Plague. This puts me in mind, that the very same thing is said to happen at Swintham Bottom in Surrey, beyond Croydon, and that the Water gushing out of the chalky Hills about eight Miles from Croydon, on the Road to Ryegate, fills the whole Bottom, and makes a large River, running just to the Town's End of Croydon; and then turning to the Left, runs into the River, which rises in the Town, and so to Cashalton. I mention it, because the Country People here have exactly the same Notion, that this Water never breaks out but against a Famine; and as I am sure it has not now broken out for more than 60 Years, it may, for aught I know, be true.

Near Burlington stands Flamborough-head, a little Promontory, which bends a little into the Sea, and forms the Bay of Burlington. It takes its Name from Flam, a British Word for a Fire-light; and not far from this Promontory is a very large Ditch, which some of the antient Earls of Holderness threw up as a Boundary to their Jurisdiction and Estate. It is call'd Earls Dyke.

Humanby stands next, but is so inconsiderable, that it has lost the Privilege of its Market, if it ever had any.

At Lebberston, a little Village, a small Way from the Sea, the famous River Derwent takes its Rise, and makes its Way West, instead of running into the Sea here. And here I take Leave of the East-riding, which is in no wise so fruitful as the other two Ridings, by reason that the middle Part of it is over-run with the Woulds; which are high Grounds, barren and moorish; but are however well-stock'd with Sheep: yet the Eastern Part upon the Sea is fruitful and pleasant, which, as well as the Southern Part, produces all Sort of Grain and Grass. But then, if you take in its Trade and Traffick, it excels both the other Ridings.

Scarborough is the first Town we come to upon the Coast in the North-riding: it is a Borough Bailiwick Town, the Situation of which is perfectly romantick; bending in the Form of a Crescent to the main Ocean, of which you have almost an unbounded Prospect from all Parts, it being built on a steep Rock, and the Declivity of a lofty Hill, on the Top of which stood an antient Castle, founded by William le Gros, in the Time of King Stephen, and repaired and inlarg'd afterwards by King Henry II. but demolished in the late Civil Wars. The Summit of this Hill contains no less than 18 or 20 Acres of Meadow-ground. The Town is populous, almost incompassed by the Sea, and walled where it joins not to the Castle, or is more strongly defended by the Sea. It has one of the best Harbours in the Kingdom, especially since the passing of an Act of Parliament, Anno 1732, to inlarge its Piers and Harbour, by which they have gained 6 Feet Depth of Water, which enables the Harbour to receive Vessels of greater Burden than it could do before. And it is the best Place, between Newcastle and the Humber capable of receiving in Distress of Weather Ships coming from the Eastern Seas along our Northern Coast.

The Spaw Waters (whose admirable Virtues yearly occasion a great Concourse of the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdom) were first discovered by Mrs. Ferrow about 120 Years ago, then an Inhabitant of the Place.

They are reckoned Cathartick and Diuretick, much in their Nature like those of Pyrmont in Germany, and are apparently tinged with a Collection of Mineral Salts, as of Vitriol, Alum, Iron, and perhaps Sulphur; but being deemed of the same Nature as those of Cheltenham in Gloucestershire, before describ'd, I refer to them.

Scarborough may be said even to rival the Bath itself, and, on several Accounts, is more eligible and inviting to Strangers. It is well for the Bath, that its Seasons interfere not with theirs; for it is frequented chiefly in the hot Months of the Summer.

There are many new Buildings in it; and more going forward, so that there is now good Accommodation for great Numbers even of the highest Quality; and they have Assemblies and Publick Balls, in long Rooms built on purpose.

The unfortunate Accident that happen'd in December 1737, whereby this famous Spaw had like to have been lost, deserves to be mentioned here. Take then the Account as follows:

The Spaw, as to its Situation, lay South from the Town, on the Sands, and fronting the Sea to the East, under a high Cliff on the Back of it, West; the Top of the Cliff being above the High-water Level, 54 Yards; and all about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town.

The Staith or Wharf adjoining to the Spaw-house, was a large Body of Stone, bound by Timbers, and was a Fence against the Sea, for the Security of the House; it was 76 Feet long, and 14 Feet high, and in Weight by Computation 2463 Tons. The House and Buildings were upon a Level with the Staith; at the North End of which, and near adjoining to it, upon a small Rise above the level Sands, and at the Foot of the Stairs that lead up to the Top of the said Staith, and to the House, were the Spaw Wells.

On Wednesday, December 28, in the Morning, a great Crack was heard from the Cellar of the Spaw House, and upon Search, the Cellar was found rent; but at the Time, no farther Notice was taken of it.

The Night following, another Crack was heard; and in the Morning, the Inhabitants were surprised to see the strange Posture it stood in, and got several Gentlemen to view it, who being of Opinion the House could not stand long, advised them to get out their Goods; but they still continued in it.

On Thursday following, between Two and Three in the Afternoon, another Crack was heard, and the Top of the Cliff behind it rent 224 Yards in Length, and 36 in Breadth, and was all in Motion, slowly descending; and so continued till dark. The Ground thus rent, contained about an Acre of Pasture-land, and had Cattle then feeding upon it, and was on a Level with the main Land, but sunk near 17 Yards perpendicular. The Sides of the Cliff nearest the Spaw stood as before, but were rent and broken in many Places, and forced forwards to the Sea. The Ground, when sunk, lay upon a Level, and the Cattle next Morning were still feeding on it, the main Land being as a Wall on the West, and some Part of the Side of the Cliff as a Wall to the East; but the Whole, to View, gave such a confused Prospect, as could hardly be described.

The Rent of the Top of the Cliff aforesaid, from the main Land, was 224 Yards. The Rent continued from each End, down the Side of the Cliff, to the Sands, was measured on the Sands from one End to the other, 168 Yards; viz. 143 South of the Staith and Spaw Wells, and 100 to the North of the Spaw.

As the Ground sunk, the Earth, or Sand, on which the People used to walk under the Cliff, rose upwards out of its natural Position, for above 100 Yards in Length, on each Side of the Staith, North and South; and was in some Places six, and in others seven Yards above its former Level. The Spaw Wells rose with it; but as soon as it began to rise, the Water at the Spaw Well ceas'd running, and was gone.

The Ground thus risen was 26 Yards broad; the Staith, which was computed at 2463 Tons, rose intire and whole, 12 Feet higher than its former Position, (but rent a little in the Front) and was forced forwards towards the Sea, 20 Yards.

The most reasonable Account then given for this Phaenomenon, and the Occasion of the Destruction of the Staith, and Spaw House, and the Loss for some time of the Spaw Spring, is as follows:

When this Staith, or Wharf, was lately rebuilt, (it being thrown down by the Violence of the Sea) Mr. Vincent, Engineer for the building of the new Pier at Scarborough, was desir'd to rebuild this Staith at the Spaw; and digging a Trench to lay the Foundation thereof, with great Difficulty clear'd it of Water; and when he had done it, could, at several Parts thereof, very easily thrust his Stick or Cane up to the Handle; from whence it is concluded, that all the Earth under the Staith was of a porous, spongy, swampy Nature, and was much the same below the Foundation of the Spaw House, and all under the Sides of the Cliff adjoining, as well North as South.

Allowing this to be Fact, the solid Earth sinking on the Top of the Cliff, as afore-mention'd, (which was of so vast a Weight, as by Computation to amount to 261, 360 Tons) pressing gradually upon and into the swampy, boggy Earth beneath it, would of course, and did, raise the Earth and Sands as before noticed, and so effected the Mischief we have particulariz'd.

But, very luckily for the Town, after a diligent Search, and clearing away the Ruins, as we may say, they found again the Spaw Spring; and on Trial, had the Pleasure to find the Water rather better'd than impair'd by the Disaster. And now the Whole is in a more flourishing Condition than ever.

Here is such plenty of all Sorts of Fish, that I have hardly seen the like. To describe the Herring, the Cod, the Whiting, is only to repeat what is said in other Places, and what we shall have occasion to repeat, more than once, now we begin to go far North.

We travelled a long Way from Scarborough, before we came to the next Market-town, which is Whitby, situate at the Influx of the little River Esk, into the Sea. It has an excellent Harbour, and a good Trade by Sea, and 'tis said to have above 200 Ships belonging to it. Here are built a great Number of good Ships for the Coal Trade. It hath a good Custom-house. The Market is well furnish'd, and supply'd with all Sorts of Provisions.

The Harbour and Piers being somewhat decay'd they were repair'd by virtue of Two Acts of Parliament, in the First and Seventh Years of Queen Anne; and in 1733, an Act pass'd to preserve, continue, and keep the said Piers in Repair for ever.

By means of these several Acts of Parliament, the Piers of Whitby have been rebuilt and completed; but yet for some Years past the Entrance into the Port has been rendered very narrow and difficult, by reason of a Bank of Sand, which has been gathering about the Head of the West Pier, insomuch that it bid fair to choak up the Harbour; nor could this Inconvenience be redress'd in the Opinion of the best Judges, but by lengthening and extending the West Pier, and its Head, about 100 Yards farther into the Sea. For this Reason another Act passed in the Eighth of King George II. for lengthening the West Pier, and for improving the Harbour.

At the Foot of some Rocks, at this Town, have been found Stones naturally as round as a Bullet, which when broken, stony Serpents are found in them, for the most part headless, look'd upon as a Lusus Naturae.

This Place was antiently called Streanshall, and Oswy King of Northumberland held a Council here, in 663, to determine the Controversy between those who kept Easter after the British manner, and those who kept it after the Roman manner, which Augustine the Monk had lately introduced. After the Party for the first had spoken, the other answering, insisted they kept Easter after the manner of St. Peter, on whom Christ promised to build his Church, and had the Keys of Heaven. Upon which the King ask'd, If it was true, that Christ had spoken so to St. Peter? Which the adverse Party allowing, the King swore a great Oath, That he would not disoblige this Porter of Heaven, lest, when he came to the Gates, he should remember him: and so establish'd the Celebration of Easter after the Roman Manner.

Near this Place are some Alum Mines, belonging to her Grace the Dutchess of Bucks, in which there is carry'd on a very considerable Trade.

We inquir'd as to that strange and wonderful Phenomenon relating to the Air here, which, as the wild Geese fly over a Piece of Ground near this Place, in hard Winters, to the Lakes in the Southern Countries, makes them drop down all of a sudden to the Ground; and had it assur'd to us for Truth, though none could assign any Reason for it.

There are Spaw Waters at Whitby, which have had great Reputation. Several curious and antique Coins have been dug up in this Neighbourhood; and a Monastery was founded here by St. Hilda, about the Year 650; and being destroyed by the Danes, was afterwards rebuilt: the Ruins of which (very considerable) are still to be seen. In the Month of November 1710, such a dreadful Storm happen'd here, that the Damage to the Shipping, &c. was computed at 40,000l.

Here the Coast inclines North-west, and we followed it till we came to Gisborough, a Market-town pretty well built, a little way from the Sea, upon a small nameless River. It is a fine and delicious Situation, endued with such a grateful Variety and Advantages of Nature, as renders it most delightfully pleasant: a fine Scene of Verdure overspreads all the Grounds about it, which are deck'd with Plenty of Field-flowers, almost all the Year round. Some compare it to Puteoli in Italy, but allow that it exceeds it in Healthiness. It stands high, and would have been incommoded with cold Breezes (as it stands so Northerly) from the Sea, but that some Hills conveniently interfere, so as to qualify the Cold.

The Behaviour of the Inhabitants too participates of the Pleasantness of the Place; for they are very courteous, well-bred, and obliging, and very neat and cleanly in their Houses.

Here are likewise some Alum Mines, but not so considerable and easy wrought as those of Whitby, which has taken off a great Part of that Trade from hence.

This pleasant Town is the last on the East-side towards the Sea, in this North-riding, in our Way to Durham. It made so delightful an Impression on my Mind, that I left the whole County in general, but this Place, and truly pleasurable Country about it, in particular, with Regret.

And thus have I accomplish'd the third and last Part of my Proposition, with respect to my Circuit through this large and far extended County: and though I have been not a little circumstantial in my Accounts of it, yet there are many curious Matters, that still remain untouch'd, and could not be brought within the Compass of an Epistolary Correspondence of this kind.

But as I have given you only a Description of the County above Ground, take the following Memorandums of the Treasures which are contained in its Bowels:

Alum, Jet, or Black Amber, Copperas, Marble, Pit-coal, Lead, Copper, Limestone, and Kelp.

The first Market-town we come to in the Bishoprick of Durham, on the East-side, is Stockton, which lies on the North-side of the Teis. It has risen, at the Expence of Yarum, from a poor pitiful Village, with Clay Walls and Straw Covering to the Houses, to a well-built Corporate Town, of great Resort and Business, govern'd by a Mayor, &c. 'Tis famous for its Ale, and a good Trade, which it carries on in Lead and Butter, by the Teis, with London, which formerly was altogether at Yarum. But this Town lying nearer the Sea, and consequently more convenient, has almost engross'd the whole Trade to itself.

Coasting along the Sea-side, we come next to Hartlepool, which is a famous corporate Mayor-town, and seated on a little Promontory, which juts out into the Sea, with which it is encompass'd on all Sides, except the West. The Market was much more considerable formerly than now; and its chief Subsistence rises only from its good Harbour, which frequently receives the Coal-fleet from Newcastle, in bad Weather.

We turn'd from hence to the Left North-west, and came to Durham next, which is a fine City, pretty large, compact, well-contriv'd, and well situated, high, pleasant, and healthy, and surrounded almost with the River Were, over which are two good Stone Bridges. The Castle stands on an Eminence, with which the River incloses the City; as the Castle does also the Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, and the fine Houses of the Clergy, where they live in great Splendor and Magnificence. All Sorts of Provisions and other Necessaries and Conveniencies for Life, are very cheap, as well as very good, here, tho' it has but one weekly Market, which is kept in a large spacious Area in the Town. It is govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, and Sheriffs, and has six Parish Churches, besides the Cathedral, which is very noble and magnificent, adorn'd with a high Tower, which rises from the Midst of it, and two Spires at the West End.

Thus from a poor Oratory of wreathen Wands and Hurdles, with which the indigent Monks of Landisfarn had first built it, it is become one of the most sumptuous Buildings of the Kind in England, and was erected out of the Offerings which were made by the superstitious Multitude at the Shrine of St. Cuthbert. And yet, notwithstanding the Residence of so many dignified Protestant Clergy, 'tis said, there are still great Numbers of Roman Catholicks in this City.

I need not tell you, that the Bishop of Durham is a Temporal Prince, that he keeps a Court of Equity, and also Courts of Justice in ordinary Causes, within himself. He is still Earl of Sadberg, and takes Place as Bishop immediately after the Bishop of London. As the Country about Rome is called St. Peter's Patrimony, so that about Durham is St. Cuthbert's, to whom the Church is dedicated, as 'tis said it was founded by the Monks of Landisfarn. David King of Scots laying all Waste with Fire and Sword, while King Edward III. was at Calais, Zouch, the valiant Bishop, fought the Scots at Nevil's Cross, where they were cut in Pieces, and their King taken Prisoner. He was the sixth Bishop of Landisfarn, or Holy Island, from whence the See was removed hither.

The Bishoprick is esteemed one of the best in England; and the Prebends, and other Church Livings, in the Gift of the Bishop, are the richest in the Kingdom. They told me there, that the Bishop had thirteen Livings in his Gift, from 300l. to 800l. a Year; and the Living of the little Town of Sedgfield, a few Miles South of the City, is said to be worth 700l. a Year, besides the small Tythes, which maintain a Curate, or might do so.

This Church is very rich: they have excellent Musick. The old Vestments, which the Clergy before the Reformation wore, are still us'd on Sundays and other Holy-days, by the Residents. They are so rich with Embroidery and emboss'd Work of Silver, as must needs make it uneasy for the Wearers to sustain. In this Cathedral lies the Body of the V•••rable Bede.

One of the old Bishops of Durham purchased for a round Sum of Money all the Rights of the Palatinate, and other Jurisdiction in this County from King Richard I. and, by his last Will, left them to the succeeding Bishops. But King Henry VIII. by Act of Parliament, greatly abridged the Temporal Power and Jurisdiction of this Bishoprick; and King Edward VI. (or rather his Uncle Somerset) by Act of Parliament dissolved the Bishoprick intirely; but it was restored by Queen Mary. Neither City nor County ever sent Members to the House of Commons, till the Vacancy of the See, by the Death of Bishop Cosins, Anno 1672; and since they return each of them Two, which is all that the County send.

We took a Trip from Durham, South, to see Bishops Auckland, which is a Market-town, pleasantly seated upon a Hill, in a very good Air, and is noted for a most noble Palace, beautified with Turrets, belonging to the Bishop, and also a fine Chapel, founded and built by Bishop Cosins, who re-edified the Palace, after the Enthusiastick Rage of the late Civil Wars had ruin'd it.

Here we turn'd West, and following the Were, pass'd thro' Wolsingham, a little Town of no Note, to Stanhop, a little Town also, which had once a Market, but 'tis now discontinued. It is only noted for a very good Park, which lies near it, where King Edward III. besieging the Scots in their Camp, had like to have been surpris'd in his Tent by one Douglas, an adventurous Scot, had not the King's Chaplain defended him with the Loss of his own Life.

These Western Parts of the County, all to the upper Part of it, are very hilly and mountainous, and the Fields near them look naked and barren; but the Iron Mines they produce within their Bowels, make ample Amends for the Barrenness of the Surface.

We return'd from these inhospitable Parts to Durham; from whence we kept the common Road to Chester in the Street, an old, dirty, thoroughfare Town, void of all Remains of the Greatness, which Antiquaries say were to be seen there, when it was a Roman Colony. Here is a Stone Bridge, but instead of riding over it, we rode under it, thro' one of the Arches, the Stream not being over the Horses Hoofs in Water; yet, on Inquiry, we found, that sometimes they have Use enough for it.

Lumley-castle, belonging to the Earl of Scarborough, is just on the other Side of the Road, as you pass between Durham and Chester, pleasantly seated in a fine Park, near the East Bank of the River Were. The Park, besides the Pleasantness of it, has this much more valuable Circumstance to recommend it, that it is full of excellent Veins of the best Coal in the Country (for the Lumley Coals are known for their Goodness at London, as well as there). This, with a sometimes navigable River just at hand, by which the Coals are carried down to Sunderland to the Ships, makes Lumley Park an inexhaustible Treasure to the Family.

They tell us, that King James I. lodged in this Castle, at his Entrance into England to take Possession of the Throne; and seeing a fine Picture of the antient Pedigree of the Family, which carried it very far beyond what his Majesty thought credible, turned this good Jest upon it to the Bishop of Durham, who shewed it him, That indeed he did not know, that Adam's Surname was Lumley, before.

Here we turned from the Road, and crossing the Were, followed it East to Sunderland, a Corporate Sea-port Town in the County Palatine of Durham, populous and well-built, with a very handsome Church in it; and tho' the River be not large, it carries on a great Trade in Coals, at high Water. It is a Peninsula, almost surrounded by the Sea. It has a very fine Church; and its Rector, the Rev. and worthy Mr. Daniel Newcome, was the principal Architect in the building of it. This Gentleman spent the greatest Part of his Income in beautifying and adorning it. He began by building a Dome, adjoining to the East-end, into which he removed the Altar, placing it under a Canopy of inlaid Work, supported in Front by Two fluted Pillars of the Corinthian Order, with proper Capitals. His Benevolence and Charity were equally extensive to all who were proper Objects of them; and he delighted in doing Good. This worthy Man, however, liv'd not to see his new Works to the Church quite completed, dying very much lamented, on 5 Jan. 1738.

The Eastern Side of the County, along the Sea Coast, and indeed the Southern Side, along the Banks of the Teis, is very fertile and delightful, thick of little Towns and Villages, which are very populous; and as the Mountains on the West produce Iron Mines, this Side is full of those of Coals, which lie so very near the Surface of the Ground, that the Cart Wheels press into them.

And indeed from Durham, the Road to Newcastle gives a View of the inexhausted Store of Coals and Coal Pits, from whence not London only, but all the South Part of England is continually supplied; and tho' at London, when we see the prodigious Fleets of Ships which come constantly in with Coals, we are apt to wonder how it is possible for them to be supplied, and that they do not bring the whole Coal Country away; yet, when in this Country we see the prodigious Heaps, I might say Mountains of Coals, which are dug up at every Pit, and how many of those Pits there are, we are filled with equal Wonder to consider where the People should live that consume them.

At the Mouth of the Tyne, which parts Durham from Northumberland, stands the Village of Sheals, the Station of the Sea Coal Fleets, where there have been some Marks of Roman Antiquity discovered not many Years since.

Yarrow, noted for the Birth-place of the Venerable Bede, stands a little higher upon the same River; and upon the other Side of the Tyne stands Gateshead, the Receptacle of the Coal-pit Men, just over-against Newcastle; and is supposed to have been antiently Part of it, tho' divided by the River, over which there is a stately Stone-bridge, with an Irongate in the Middle, which serves as a Boundary between the Bishoprick and the County of Northumberland.

The Air in this Bishoprick is pretty cold and piercing; and 'tis well for the Poor, that Nature has supplied them so abundantly with Fuel for Firing; and indeed all other Provisions and Necessaries are very cheap here. It seems as if the whole County had been originally appropriated to Religion and War; for it is full of the Ruins of Religious Houses and Castles.

We are now entering into the large and extensive County of Northumberland, which for many Ages was the Bone of Contention, and Seat of War between England and Scotland.

Newcastle is a large and exceeding populous Town, under the Government of a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, &c. and is situate between the Wall of Severus and the Tyne, which becomes here a fine deep and noble River, insomuch that Ships of a middling Burden may come safely up to the very Town, tho' the large Colliery Ships are station'd at Sheals. It may be consider'd as divided into Two Parts, whereof Gateshead, before spoken of on Durham Side, is one. They are both joined by the Bridge, which consists of Seven Arches, as large, at least, as those of London Bridge, and support a Street of Houses, as that does.

The Liberty of the Town, as it is a Corporation, extends no farther than the Gate upon the Bridge; which, some Years since, was the Preservation of it, by stopping a terrible Fire, that otherwise had, perhaps, burnt the whole Street of Houses on the City Side of the Bridge, as it did those beyond it. On the East Side of this Gate the Arms of the Bishop of Durham are carved, as those of the Town of Newcastle are on the West Side.

There is also a very noble Exchange here; and the Wall of the Town runs parallel from it with the River, leaving a spacious Piece of Ground before it between the Water and the Wall; which being well wharfed up, and faced with Free-stone, makes the longest and largest Quay for landing and lading Goods, that is to be seen in England, except that at Yarmouth in Norfolk, it being much longer than that at Bristol.

Here is a large Hospital built by Contribution of the Keel Men, by way of Friendly Society, for the Maintenance of the Poor of their Fraternity, and which, had it not met with Discouragements from those who ought rather to have assisted so good a Work, might have been a noble Provision for that numerous and laborious People. The Keel Men are those who manage the Lighters, which they call Keels, by which the Coals are taken from the Staiths, or Wharfs, and carried on board the Ships at Sheals to load them for London.

Here are several large publick Buildings also; particularly a House of State for the Mayor of the Town (for the Time being) to remove to, and dwell in during his Mayoralty. Here is also a Hall for the Surgeons to meet in, where they have Two Skeletons of human Bodies, one a Man, and the other a Woman, and some other Rarities.

And since this Work went to the Press, I am inform'd, that the Rev. Dr. Robert Thomlinson, Rector of Whickham in the County of Durham, and Prebendary of St. Paul's, gave to this Corporation a valuable Collection of Books, consisting of upwards of 6000 Volumes; and also settled a Rent-charge of Five Pounds per Annum for ever, for buying new Books. And Walter Blackett, Esq one of their Representatives in Parliament, has, at his own Expence, built a handsome Fabrick for the Reception of those Books, and settled in Mortmain a Rent-charge of 25l. per Annum for ever for a Librarian.

The Town is defended by an exceeding strong Wall, wherein are Seven Gates, and as many Turrets, The Castle, tho' old and ruinous, overlooks the whole Town. The worst is, that the Situation of the Town b•ing on the Declivity of Two high Hills, and the Buildings being very close and old, render it incommodious, to which the Smoke of the Coals contributes not a little; and consequently excludes such who seek a Residence of Pleasure: but then as the River which runs between the Two Hills, makes it a Place of great Trade and Business, that Inconvenience is abundantly recompensed.

They have Two Articles of Trade here, which are particularly owing to the Coals, viz. Glasshouses and Salt-pans; the first are in the Town, the last are at Sheals, Seven Miles below it; but their Coals are brought chiefly from the Town. Prodigious are the Quantities of Coals which those Salt Works consume; and the Fires make such a Smoke, that we saw it ascend in huge Clouds over the Hills, Four Miles before we came to Durham, which is at least 16 Miles from the Place. In short, the Town is almost surrounded with Coal-pits; and London is reckoned to take off upwards of 600,000 Chaldrons yearly, at Thirty-six Bushels to the Chaldron.

Here I met with a Remark which was quite new to me, and will be so, I suppose, to many others. You well know, we receive at London every Year a great Quantity of Salmon pickled or cured, and sent up in the Pickle in Kits or Tubs, which we call Newcastle Salmon. In consequence of this, when I came to Newcastle, I expected to see great Plenty of Salmon there; but was surprised to find it, on the contrary, so scarce, that a good large fresh Salmon was not to be had under Five or Six Shillings. Upon Inquiry I learnt, that really this Salmon, which we call Newcastle Salmon, is taken as far off as the Tweed, which is near 50 Miles further, and is brought by Land on Horses to Sheals, where it is cured, pickled, and sent to London, as above; so that it is more properly Berwick Salmon than Newcastle.

There is but one Parochial Church, called St. Nicolas, built by St. David, King of Scotland, but several Chapels as large as Churches. Here are likewise some Meeting-houses, and a great many well-endowed Charity-schools. It is not only inriched by the Coal Trade, but there are also very considerable Merchants in it, who carry on Traffick to divers Parts of the World, especially to Holland, Hamburgh, Norway, and the Baltick.

They build Ships here to Perfection as to Strength and Firmness, and to bear the Sea, as the Coal Trade requires. This gives an Addition to the Merchants Business, it requiring a Supply of all Sorts of Naval Stores to fit out those Ships.

Here is also a considerable Manufacture of Hard Ware, or Wrought Iron, of late Years erected after the manner of Sheffield, which is very helpful for imploying the Poor, of which the Town has always a prodigious Number.

This Town was taken and plundered by the Scots in the Beginning of the late Civil Wars; and here it was, (to their eternal Reproach be it remember'd) that the Scots perfidiously sold their King for 2000l. in hand, and Security for 2000l. more, after he had in Confidence intrusted himself in their Hands, and without any Conditions made for him: a Transaction equally detestable with that of cutting off his Head; or more, if possible, as those who did the last were his avow'd and implacable Enemies, whereas the others received him as his Friends and Protectors.

On the 12th of January, 1738-9, Part of the antient Gate, leading to the Castle-Garth, fell down; and tho' several Shops joined to it, yet nobody receiv'd any Hurt.

The Town was formerly fortify'd with a great Castle, the Walls of which are still standing. Its antient Name was Monk-Chester; but on the building of a new Castle in the Time of William the Conqueror, it obtain'd its present Name. It enjoys great Privileges by the Favour of Queen Elizabeth, and being one of those which are called County-towns, governs itself independently of the Lord Lieutenant.

West from Newcastle lies the Bailiwick-Town of Hexham, (the Axelodunum of the Romans) a Pass upon the Tyne, famous, or rather infamous, for having the first Blood drawn near it in the late Civil War; and where a Detachment of English, tho' advantageously posted, were scandalously defeated by the Scots, who gain'd the Pass, fought thro' the River, and killed about 400 Men, the rest basely running away; after which, the Town of Newcastle was as easily seized upon, without striking a Stroke.

The Country round this Town is vulgarly called Hexhamshire. It was formerly the Seat of a Bishop, till Henry VIII. annexed it to that of Durham. Its Cathedral was stately, before the Scots ruin'd the greatest Part of it in one of their Excursions. On the other Side of the Tyne from Hexhamshire, you see a House very beautifully situated, belonging to the Family of Errington, called Bifront; and within Two Miles of Hexham is a fine House built by the late unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, called Dilston.

I was greatly tempted here to trace the famous Wall built by the Romans, or rather rebuilt by them, from hence to Carlisle, the Particulats of which, and the Remains of Antiquity seen upon it, our Histories are full of. I went to several Places in the Fields thro' which it passed, where I saw the Remains of it, some almost lost, and some very visible. But of this more in another Place.

Northumberland is a long coasting County, lying chiefly on the Sea to the East, and bounded by the Mountains of Stainmore on the West, which are in some Places inaccessible, but in many others unpassable.

Here is abundant Business for an Antiquary; every Place shews you ruined Castles, Roman Altars, Inscriptions, Monuments of Battles, of Heroes killed, Armies routed, and the like. The Towns of Morpeth, Alnwick, Warkworth, Tickill, and many others, shew their old Castles, and some of them still in tolerable Repair, Alnwick in particular, and Warkworth; others, as Bambrough, Norham, Chillingham, Horton, Dunstar, Wark, and a great many more, are sunk in their own Ruins, by mere Length of Time.

We had Cheviot Hills so plain in view, that we could not but inquire of the Inhabitants every-where, whether they had heard of the Fight at Chevy-Chace: they not only told us they had heard of it, but had all the Account of it at their Fingers End; whereupon taking a Guide at Wooller, a small Town, lying, as it were, under the Hills, he led us on toward the Top of the Hill; for, by the way, altho' there are many Hills and Reachings for many Miles, which bear the Name of Cheviot Hills, yet there is one of them a great deal higher than the rest, which, at a Distance, looks like the Pico-Teneriffe in the Canaries, and is so high, that it is plainly seen from the Rosemary Top in the East-Riding of Yorkshire, which is near 60 Miles off.

We were preparing to clamber up this Hill on Foot, when our Guide told us, he would find a Way for us to get up on Horse-back. He then very artfully led us round to a Part of the Hill, where, in the Winter-season, great Streams of Water come pouring down from it in several Chanels, which were pretty broad, and over-grown on each Side with Alder-trees so close and thick, that we rode under them as in an Arbour. In one of these Chanels we mounted the Hill, as Besiegers approach a fortified Town by Trenches, and were got a great way up, before we were well aware of it; for we were already so far advanced, that we could see some of the Hills, which before we thought very high, lying under us, as if they were a Part of the Plain below. As we mounted higher, we found the Hill steeper than at first; and our Horses being very much fatigu'd, we alighted, and proceeded on Foot. When we had gain'd the Top, we were agreeably surprised to see a smooth and pleasant Plain half a Mile in Diameter, with a large Pond in the middle of it; for we had a Notion, when at Bottom, that the Hill narrow'd to a Point, and that when we came to the Top, we should be as upon a Pinacle, with a Precipice every Way round us.

The Day, to our great Satisfaction, happen'd to be very calm, and so clear, that we could plainly see the Smoke of the Salt-pans at Sheals, at the Mouth of the Tyne, which was about 40 Miles South from this. We saw likewise several Hills, which our Guide told us were in England, and others in the West of Scotland, the Names of which I have forgot. Eastward we saw Berwick, and to the North the Hills called Soutra Hills, which are in Sight of Edinburgh. In short, we had a surprizing View of the united Kingdom; and tho' all the Country round us looked very well, yet, it must be owned, the Scots Side seemed the pleasantest, and had the best Ground.

Satisfied with this Prospect, and not thinking our Time or Pains ill bestowed, we came down the Hill by the same Rout we went up. Our Guide afterwards carried us to a single House, called Wooller Haugh-head, a much better Inn than we expected to meet with thereabouts.

At this Inn, we inquired after the Particulars of the famous Story of Chevy Chase, and found that the People had the following Notion of it; That it was an Inroad of the Earl of Douglas into England, in order to ravage, burn, and plunder the Country, as was usual in those Days: That Piercy, Earl of Northumberland, march'd with his Friends and Followers, to meet the Scots; both Parties encounter'd at the Foot of Cheviot Hills, and a bloody Battle ensued, wherein both the Earls were slain, desperately fighting at the Head of their Troops; and so many fell on both Sides, that it could not be determin'd which had the Victory.

They shewed us the Place where this Battle was fought, which, if their Tradition does not mislead them, is on the Side of the Hill near the Road. It is said, the Scots were mostly Horse, and therefore the English Archers placed themselves on the Side of a steep Ascent, that they might not be broken in upon by them. The Spots of Ground where the Two Earls are said to have fallen, are distinguished by Two Stones to this Day. The Fight the Scots call the Battle of Otterburn, and make a very famous Story of it, to the Honour of their Nation.

About Six or Seven Miles from hence we saw the ever memorable Flodden-field, where James IV. King of Scotland, invading England with a great Army, when Henry VIII. was engaged abroad in the Siege of Tournay, was met by the gallant Earl of Surrey, in which, after a bloody Battle, the Scots were totally defeated, and their King, fighting valiantly at the Head of his Nobility, was slain.

The River Till, which our Historians call a deep and swift River, where many of the Scots were drown'd in their Flight, seemed to me every-where passable with great Ease; but perhaps it might at that time be swelled with some sudden Rain, which the Historians ought to have taken notice of.

I must not quit Northumberland without taking notice, that the Natives of this Country, of the ancient original Race or Families, are distinguished by a Shibboleth upon their Tongues in pronouncing the Letter R, which they cannot utter without a hollow Jarring in the Throat, by which they are as plainly known, as a Foreigner is in pronouncing the Th: this they call the Northumberland R, or Wharle; and the Natives value themselves upon that Imperfection, because, forsooth, it shews the Antiquity of their Blood.

From hence lay a Road into Scotland, by the Town of Kelso, which I afterwards passed thro'; but at present inclining to see Berwick upon Tweed, we turned to the West, and visited that old Frontier, where is a fine Bridge over the Tweed, built by Queen Elizabeth; a noble, stately Work, consisting of 16 Arches, and joining, as may be said, the Two Kingdoms. The chief Trade I found here was in Corn and Salmon.

I am now on the Borders of Scotland, and must call to mind, that I have not yet gone over the Western Coast of England, viz. Lancaster, Westmorland, and Cumberland.

I must needs own, that since I entered upon the View of these Northern Counties, I have many times regretted, that my Limits forbid me often to decline the delightful View of Antiquity, of which there is so great and so surprizing a Variety every Day discovered; for the religious, as well as military Remains of the Britons, Romans, Saxons, and Normans, like Wounds hastily healed up, appear presently when the Callus, which was spread over them, is removed; and though the Earth has defaced the Figures and Inscriptions upon most of these Curiosities, yet they are beautiful, even in their Decay; and the venerable Face of Antiquity has something so pleasing, so surprising, so satisfactory in it, especially to those who have, with any Attention, read the Histories of past Ages, that I know nothing which renders Travelling more pleasant and more agreeable.

The Description of the other Three Counties will be the Subject of my next Letter. Mean time, I am,

SIR,
Your most humble Servant.

LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Description of the Counties of Lancaster, Westmorland, and Cumberland.

SIR,

I Entered Lancashire at the remotest Western Point of that County, having been at West Chester upon a particular Occasion, and from thence ferry'd over from the Cestrian Chersonesus, as I have already called it, to Liverpoole. This narrow Slip of Land, rich, fertile, and full of Inhabitants, tho' formerly, as Authors say, a mere waste and desolate Forest, is called Wirall, or by some Wirehall. Here is a Ferry over the Mersee, which, at full Sea, is more than two Miles over. You land on the flat Shore on the other Side, and must be content to ride thro' the Water for some Length, not on Horseback, but on the Shoulders of some Lancashire Clown, who comes Knee-deep to the Boat's Side, to truss one up; and then runs away more nimbly than one desires to ride, unless his Trot were easier.

Liverpoole is one of the Wonders of Britain, because of its prodigious Increase of Trade and Buildings, within the Compass of a very few Years; rivalling Bristol in the Trade to Virginia, and the English Colonies in America. They trade also round the whole Island, send Ships to Norway, to Hamburg, and to the Baltick, as also to Holland and Flanders; so that, they are almost become, like the Londoners, universal Merchants.

The Trade of Liverpoole consists not only in Merchandizing and Correspondencies beyond Seas; but as they import almost all Kinds of foreign Goods, they have consequently a large Inland Trade, and a great Correspondence with Ireland and Scotland for Consumption of their Goods, exactly as it is with Bristol; and they really divide the Trade with Bristol upon very remarkable Equalities.

Bristol lies upon the Irish Sea; so does Liverpoole: Bristol trades chiefly to the South and West Parts of Ireland, from Dublin in the East to Galloway West; Liverpoole has all the Trade of the East Shore and the North, from the Harbour of Dublin to Londonderry: Bristol has the Trade of South Wales; Liverpoole great Part of the Trade of North Wales: Bristol has the South-west Counties of England, and some North of it, as high as Bridge-North, and perhaps to Shrewsbury; Liverpoole has all the Northern Counties; and a large Consumption of Goods in Cheshire and Staffordshire is supplied from thence.

Ireland is also shared between both; and for the Northern Coast of it, if the Liverpoole Men have not the whole Fishery, or, at least, in Company with the Merchants of Londonderry, the Fault is their own. The Situation of Liverpoole is very advantageous towards improving its Commerce, and extending it into the Northern Inland Counties of England, particularly into Cheshire and Staffordshire, by the new Navigation of the Rivers Mersee, the Weaver, and the Dane. By the last the Merchants come so near the Trent with their Goods, that they make no Difficulty to carry them by Land to Burton, and from thence correspond quite thro' the Kingdom, even to Hull; and they begin to be very sensible of the Profit of such a Commerce.

It is some Advantage to the growing Commerce of this Town, that the Freemen of it are, in consequence of that Freedom, free also of Bristol; as they are of the Corporations of Waterford and Wexford in the Kingdom of Ireland. Not that these Corporation Privileges are of any great Value to Liverpoole in its foreign Trade; but in particular Cases, it may be some Advantage, as in Town Duties, in admitting them to set up Trades in those Corporations, and the like.

The Town has no Fortifications either to the Land or the Sea; tho' when the late Northern Insurrection reached to Preston, the Inhabitants would have been glad of Walls and Gates; and indeed, had the Rebel Party had time to have advanced to Warrington, seized the Pass there, and taken Manchester, as they would certainly have done in three Days more, it would have fared but very ill with Liverpoole, which could have made but little Resistance against an armed and desperate Body of Men: besides, the Rebels would have not only found the Sweets of Plunder here, but Arms, Ammunition, Powder, and Lead, all which they extremely wanted. They would have had Ships also to have facilitated a Communication with Ireland, from whence Numbers would have landed, if it had been only in hopes of Plunder. But, happy for Liverpoole, as well as the whole Kingdom! the Rebels were defeated, before they proceeded so far.

The Situation of Liverpoole being on the North Bank of the River, with the Disadvantage of a flat Shore, the Merchants were laid under great Difficulties in their Business; for tho' the Harbour was good, and the Ships rode well in the Offing, yet they were obliged to ride there as in a Road, rather than a Harbour. Here was no Mole or Haven to bring in their Ships, and lay them up (as the Seamen call it) for the Winter, nor any Quay for the delivering their Goods, as at Bristol, Biddiford, Newcastle, Hull, and other Sea Ports. Upon this, the Inhabitants and Merchants, by the Aid of an Act of Parliament passed in the Eighth Year of the Reign of the late Queen Anne, which was prolonged by another, passed in the Third Year of his Majesty King George I. made a large Basin, or wet Dock, at the East End of the Town, where, at a very great Charge, the Place considered, they have brought the Tide from the Mersee, to flow up by an Opening, that looks to the South, and the Ships go in North; so that the Town shelters it from the Westerly and Northerly Winds, the Hills from the Easterly, and the Ships lie, as in a Mill-pond, with the utmost Safety and Convenience. As this is so great a Benefit to the Town, the like of which is not to be seen in any Place of England, for the Merchants Service, London excepted, it is well worth the Imitation of many other tradeing Places in Britain, who for want of such a Convenience, lose their Trade; for indeed the Inhabitants of Liverpoole suffered not a little for want of it in the great Storm, Anno 1703. This Dock is capable of holding 100 Sail of Ships.

But tho' these new Works have been of such Advantage to this flourishing Town, yet something more appeared wanting to crown the Work; for, it seems, the Entrance into the Dock or Basin, from the open Harbour, was so streight, that Ships and Vessels lying in the Dock were often hinder'd from getting out to Sea; and those without the Dock, in the open Harbour, were frequently forced ashore and lost. To remedy this Inconvenience, an Act passed, Anno 1738, for inlarging the said Entrance, and for erecting a Pier in the open Harbour, on the North and South Sides of the said Entrance. And as the Lives of divers Persons were endanger'd and lost, and Goods often run and smuggled, for want of keeping proper and sufficient Lights in the Night-time, about the said Wet-dock or Basin, the same Act impowers the Corporation to set up such a Number of Lamps to enlighten the Dock, as they shall think requisite: all which must be of the highest Benefit to this fine Town, and a great Furtherance to its Trade and Navigation.

The Custom-house adjoining to the Dock is also but the Work of a few Years past, and is not only a commodious, but an elegant Piece of Building.

Liverpoole had formerly but one Church, dedicated to our Lady, and St. Nicolas, and that dependent on the Parish of Walton; but upon the Increase of Inhabitants, and of new Buildings, in so extraordinary a manner, an Act of Parliament passed in the Tenth Year of King William III. enabling the Corporation to build and endow a new one, and to make Liverpoole independent of Walton. Anno 1704, the Church of St. Peter's on the East-side of the Town, which had been built at the Charge of the Parish to which it was appropriated, was consecrated. But this being still not sufficient for this flourishing Town, her late Majesty Queen Anne, in the Third Year of her Reign, granted to the Corporation for 50 Years a Lease of the Scite of Liverpoole Castle, which had long lain in Ruins, whereon to erect a third Church, and other Edifices, under the yearly Rent of 6l. 13s. 4d. together with Liberty to use the Materials of the old Castle for that Purpose. And his late Majesty King George I. by Act of Parliament, was pleased to make over to the Corporation for ever, on a Reserve of the same annual Rent, the said Scite of the old Castle; whereon the Inhabitants erected the said third Church, and in Honour to that Prince, dedicated it to St. George. It was finish'd in the Year 1734, from the Revenues arising from the Corporation-Lands, and the Duty on Merchandize, which are estimated at 200l. per Ann. These Churches are very handsome and capacious Buildings. That on the North of the Town has in it a fine Font of Marble, placed in the Body of the Church, surrounded with a beautiful Iron Palisado; the Gift of the late Mr. Heysham, a Merchant of London, but considerably concerned in Trade on this Side, and for many Years Member of Parliament for Lancaster. There is a beautiful Tower to this Church, and a new Ring of eight Bells.

The Town-house is a fine modern Building, standing all upon Pillars of Freestone; the Place under it is their Tolsey, or Exchange, for the Meeting of their Merchants; but they begin to want more Room, and talk of inlarging it, or removing the Exchange to the other part of the Town, where the Ships and Merchants Business is nearer at hand.

Here is also a good Free-school, well endow'd, and likewise a very noble Charity-school, which was built, and is supported, by the generous Contributions of the Inhabitants, for 50 Boys and 12 Girls, who are maintained with Cloaths, Meat, and Lodging, and have proper Education bestow'd upon them.

Here are also several Alms-houses for the Support of Sailors Widows, and other old and indigent People: and since the Year 1730, a Work-house for the Poor has also been erected, which, by good Management, has reduc'd the Poor's Rate from two Shillings in the Pound to Ten-pence; and they made no Doubt, when I was there last, that in a Year or two it would be brought under Six-pence in the Pound.

It is a Corporate Town, govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen. The Harbour is defended on the South-side by a Castle, and the West by a Tower on the River Mersee.

In a Word, there is no Town in England, except London, that can equal Liverpoole for the Fineness of the Streets, and Beauty of the Buildings. Many of the Houses are built of Free-stone, and completely finished; and all the rest (of the new Part I mean) of Brick, as handsomely built as London itself.

Formerly Liverpoole was but indifferently supply'd with fresh Water; but they have been for many Years well accommodated in that respect, by virtue of an Act of Parliament pass'd for that Purpose, in the Eighth Year of the Reign of her late Majesty Queen Anne.

I shall only add, that some of the Streets are named from their Relation to the Family of the Mores of Blank-hall, formerly chief Lords and Owners of the greatest Part of Liverpoole, and who first began to beautify and adorn it with fine Stone Buildings.

From hence the Mersee opening into the Irish Sea, we could see the great and famous Road of Hile Lake, remarkable for the shipping off, or rather Rendezvous of the Army and Fleet under King William, for the Conquest of Ireland, Anno 1689; for here the Men of War rode as our Ships do in the Downs, till the Transports came to them from Chester and this Town.

Going East, we pass'd through Prescot, a large Market-town, but thinly inhabited; and came to Warrington.

This is a large old-built Market-town upon the River Mersee, over which is erected a stately Stone Bridge, which is the only Bridge of Communication for the whole County with that of Chester. It is on the great Road from London leading to Carlisle and Scotland, and, in case of War, has always been esteemed a Pass of the utmost Importance. It was found to be so upon several Occasions in the Time of the late Civil War; and had the Rebel Scots advanced thus far in the late Preston Affair, so as to have made themselves Masters of it, it would have been so again; and, on that Account, the King's Forces took special Care, by a speedy Advance, to secure it.

Warrington is populous and rich, and full of good Country Tradesmen. Here is particularly a weekly Market for Linen, as I saw at Wrexham in Wales a Market for Flanel. The Linen sold at this Market, is, generally speaking, a Sort of Table Linen, called Huk-a-buk. It is likewise noted for excellent Malt. I was told there are generally as many Pieces of this Linen sold here every Market-day, as amount to 500l. sometimes much more, and all made in the Neighbourhood of the Place.

Not far off is the Village of Winick, fam'd for its Rectory, worth about 800l. a Year.

From hence, on the Road to Manchester, we passed the great Bog or Waste, called Chat-moss, the first of that Kind that we saw in England, from any of the South Parts hither. It extends on the Leftside of the Road for five or six Miles East and West, and they told us it was, in some Places, seven or eight Miles from North to South. There are many of these Mosses in this County: take this for a Description of all the rest.

The Surface, at a Distance, looks black and dirty, and is indeed frightful to think of; for it will bear neither Horse nor Man, unless in an exceeding dry Season, and then so as not to be travelled over with Safety.

The Surface seems to be a Collection of the small Roots of innumerable Vegetables matted together, interwoven so thick, as well the larger Roots as the smaller Fibres, that it makes a Substance hard enough to cut out into Turf or Peat, which, in some Places, the People pile up in the Sun, and dry for their Fuel. The Roots I speak of are in general small and soft, not unlike the Roots of Asparagus, or of Bearbind, and have no Earth among them, except what they contract from the Air, and Dust flying in it; but the Rain keeps them, as it were, always growing, tho' not much increasing.

In some Places the Surface of this is very thick, in others less. We saw it sometimes eight or nine Feet thick, and the Water that drained from it looked clear, but of a deep brown, like stale Beer. What Nature meant by such an useless Production, is hard to imagine; but the Land is intirely waste, except, as above, for the poor Cottagers Fuel, and the Quantity used for that is very small.

Under the Moss, or rather in the very Body of it, and not here only, but in several like Places, perhaps in all of them, those antient Fir-trees are found, which are so unaccountable, that much Learning has been shewn to very little Purpose on this Subject; for after all, whatever has been said, must be mere Conjecture and Uncertainty: but in my weak Judgment, it may be thus accounted for; That Nature, whose Works are all directed by a superior Hand, has been guided to produce Trees here under Ground, as she does in other Places above Ground: that as the Trees above the Surface grow erect and high, these lie prone and horizontal: those shoot forth Branches and Leaves; these shoot forth none, yet have a Vegetation by Methods directed by Nature, and particular to that Kind; and 'tis remarkable, that if they lie buried, they will grow and increase; but if you take them up, and plant them in the Air, they will wither and die.

It is observable, that these Trees are a Kind of Fir, and are very full of Turpentine. Whether there is any Tar in them, I am not positive, but I suppose there is; and yet I do not see, that for this Reason they should not be a natural ordinary Product, as other Vegetables are.

As to their being brought hither by the general Convulsion of the Globe at the Deluge, the Thought is so repugnant to common Sense, that I think it neither needs nor deserves any other Notice.

From hence we came on to Manchester, one of the greatest, if not really, the greatest mere Village in England. It is neither a Town, City, nor Corporation, nor sends Members to Parliament. The highest Magistrate is a Constable, or Headborough; and yet it has a Collegiate Church, takes up a large Space of Ground, and, including the Suburbs, or that Part of the Town on the other Side of the Bridge, it is said to contain above 50,000 People.

The Increase of Buildings at Manchester within these few Years, is a Confirmation of the Increase of People; for here, as at Liverpoole, and as at Froom in Somersetshire, the Town is extended in a surprising Manner; abundance of new-built Streets are added, as also a new Church, dedicated to St. Anne; and they talk of founding another, and a fine new Square; by which means the Town is almost double to what it was some Years ago.

So that you have here an open Village, which is greater and more populous than many, nay, than most Cities in England. Neither York, Lincoln, Chester, Salisbury, Winchester, Worcester, Gloucester, nor Norwich itself, can come up to it; and for lesser Cities, two or three put together, would not equal it, such as Peterborough, Ely, and Carlisle, or such as Bath, Wells, and Litchfield, and some others.

The Town of Manchester boasts of Four extraordinary Foundations, a College, an Hospital, a Freeschool, and a Library, all very well supported.

The College was the Charity of Thomas West, Lord Delaware, who being but the Cadet of the Family, was bred a Scholar, took Orders, and became Rector of the Parish, which he enjoyed many Years: but, by the Decease of his elder Brother without Heirs, succeeding to his Honour and Estate, he founded the College in the Year 1421. The Pope, in Consideration that the Family was likely to be extinct, is said to have allowed him to marry, on his performing so beneficial a Penance. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the two Patron Saints of France and England, St. Denys and St. George.

This Foundation escaping the general Ruin, under Henry VIII. was dissolved 1547. in the first Year of King Edward VI. After this, it was refounded by Queen Mary; and then anew by Queen Elizabeth, Anno 1578, by the Name of Christ's Church in Manchester; and last of all it was refounded by King Charles I. Anno 1636, consisting then of one Warden, four Fellows, two Chaplains, four Singing Men, and four Choristers, incorporating them, as they were by Queen Elizabeth, by the Name of the Wardens and Fellows of Christ's Church in Manchester, the Statutes for the same being drawn up by Archbishop Laud.

The Visitor of this Collegiate Church is the Bishop of Chester, and his late Majesty King George I. haveing made Dr. Peploe Bishop of Chester, who at the same time was Warden of the Church, the Visitatorial Power and the Wardenship being incompatible, an Act passed Anno 1729, impowering his Majesty to be the Visitor, whensoever the Warden of Manchester happened to be Bishop of Chester.

The Hospital was founded by Humphrey Chetham, Esq and incorporated by King Charles II. designed by the said bountiful Benefactor for the Maintenance of 40 poor Boys out of the Town and Parish of Manchester, and some other neighbouring Parishes; but it is inlarged since to the Number of 60, by the Governors of the said Hospital, who have improved the Revenues of it.

The said Founder also erected a very fair and spacious Library, which is furnished with a competent Stock of choice and valuable Books, and daily increasing, with the Income of 116l. per Annum, settled to buy Books for ever, and to afford a competent Salary for a Library-keeper. There is also a large School for the Hospital Boys, where they are daily instructed, and taught to read and write.

The Publick School was founded, A. D. 1519, by Hugh Oldham, D. D. Bishop of Exeter; and the Revenues left by him are, of late, very much increased, and the School has been suitably improved from them.

Besides these publick Benefactions and Endowments, there have been several other considerable Sums of Money, and annual Revenues, left and bequeathed to the Poor of the said Town, who are thereby, with the Kindness and Charity of the present Inhabitants, competently provided for, without starving at Home, or being forced to seek Relief Abroad.

As for the Antiquity of the Place, it is the Mancunium of the Romans; and what is now called Knockcastle, was the Scite of the Roman Castrum; and many Antiquities have been found here. The Foundation of the Castle Wall and Ditch still remain in Castlefield, as some time called.

The new Church I have mentioned, was finished about the Year 1723, by voluntary Subscriptions: the Choir is Alcove-fashion, and the Pilasters painted of Lapis Lazuli Colour. The old Church is very large, and has Three Rows of neat Pillars. They have Looms that work 24 Laces at a time, an Invention they borrow'd from the Dutch. For the Space of Three Miles upwards, they have no less than 60 Water-mills. The Town stands chiefly on a Rock, and across the River, the large Town, as it may be called, is named Salthorp.

The Antiquity of the Manufacture is, indeed, worth taking notice of, which, tho' we cannot trace it by History, we have reason to believe began something earlier than the Woollen Manufactures in other Parts of England, of which I have spoken so often; because the Cotton might itself come from the Mediterranean, and be known by Correspondents in those Counties, when that of Wool was not pushed at, because our Neighbours wrought the Goods; and tho' they bought the Wooll from England, yet we did not want the Goods: whereas, without making the Cotton Goods at Home, our People could not have them at all; and that Necessity, which is the Mother of Invention, might put them upon this; and without such Necessity, Ignorance and Necessity prevented the other.

The River Irwell runs close by Manchester, and receives the little River Irke just above on the North and North-east Side. There is a very firm, but antient Stone Bridge over the Irwell, which is built exceeding high, because this River, tho' not great, yet coming from the mountainous Part of the Country, swells sometimes so suddenly, that in one Night's time they told me Waters would frequently rise Four or Five Yards, and the next Day fall as hastily as they rose.

About Eight Miles from Manchester, North-west, lies Bolton. We saw nothing remarkable in it, but that the Cotton Manufacture reached hither, tho' the Place did not, like Manchester, seem increasing.

Here the old Earl of Derby was beheaded, Oct. 15. 1651, for proclaiming King Charles II.

As I have noted above, we turned East here, and came to Bury, a small Market-town on the River Roch, which is the utmost Bound of the Cotton Manufacture, which flourishes so well at Manchester, &c. And here the Woollen Manufacture of coarse Sorts, called Half-thicks and Kersies, begins, which imploys this, and all the Villages about it.

From thence we went to Rochdale, a Market-town of good Traffick, a larger, and more populous Town than Bury; it lies under the Hills called Blackstone Edge; which having mentioned, at my Entrance this Way into Yorkshire, I must now go back again to the Sea Coast; for I took my Course that Way up to Preston and Lancaster in this Journey, having travelled thus far from Liverpoole, in my former Journey to Halifax, &c. But must first observe, that there are on this Eastern Side of the County, Northward of Rochdale, the Towns of Haslington, Burnley and Coln, which lie just under the Mountains; and likewise Blackburn and Clithero, a little West of them: all which being merely Market-towns, and of no other Note, I shall say no more of them, other than that Clithero stands upon the Ribble, and is the most considerable; and that at Coln and Burnley have been discovered a great many Roman Coins.

I take Wigan first, in my Way back to the Sea Coast: it lies on the high Post-road to Lancaster. This Town has a good Market, and is noted for its Manufacture in Coverlids, Rugs, Blankets, and other Sort of Bedding Furniture; and likewise for Pit-coal, and Iron-work.

Between Wigan and Bolton, in the Estate of Sir Roger Bradshaw, is found great Plenty of what they call Canel or Candle Coal, the like of which is not to be seen in Britain, or perhaps in the World. By putting a lighted Candle to them, they are presently in a Flame, and yet hold Fire as long as any Coals whatever, and burn more or less as they are placed in the Grate flat or edgewise. They are smooth and sleek, when the Pieces part from one another, and will polish like Alabaster. A Lady may take them up in a Cambrick Hankerchief, and they will not soil it, tho' they are as black as the deepest Jet. They are the most pleasant and agreeable Fuel that can be found; but are so remote from London, that the Carriage makes them too dear for common Use. We saw some of them at Warrington too; but all from the same Pits.

I must not pass over the Burning Well, as it is called, near Wigan; the Account of which take in the Words of Mr. Camden's Continuator:
"Within a Mile and a half of Wigan is a Well, which does not appear to be a Spring, but rather Rain-water, at first Sight. There is nothing about it that seems extraordinary; but, upon emptying it, there presently breaks out a sulphureous Vapour, which makes the Water bubble up as if it boiled: a Candle being put to it, it presently takes Fire, and burns like Brandy; the Flame in a calm Season will continue a whole Day; by the Heat whereof they can boil Eggs, Meat, &c. tho' the Water itself be cold. By this Bubbling the Water does not increase, but is only kept in Motion by the sudden Halitus of the Vapours breaking out. The same Water, taken out of the Well, will not burn; as neither the Mud upon which the Halitus has beat."

Dr. Leigh, in his Natural History of Lancashire, not only describes it, but accounts very judiciously for the Thing itself, and by it for the Warmth of all hot Baths.

On the same Road, a little South, stands Newton, which had once a Market, but is now difused. It is only noted for a very eminent Charity-school, founded in 1707, by one Hornby, a Yeoman of the same Place. The poorer Sort of Children are taught to read, write, and cast Accounts, and have Dinners every School-day besides. There are also Ten Boys and Ten Girls, who lodge in an Hospital contiguous to the School, where they are provided with all other Necessaries till 14 Years old. The Fund for this Charity was 2000l. A large Sum for a Yeoman to give!

From hence we passed to Ormskirk West, towards the Sea-coast. It is a Market-town that has a good Inland-trade; but we saw nothing remarkable here, but the Monuments of some of the antient Family of the Stanleys, before they were ennobled. And here they still continue to bury the Family, whose Seat is called Latham, not far from this Town; to which belongs a very large Estate, and a fine Park. Latham House is noted for having been gallantly defended in the late Civil Wars by a Woman, the Lady Charlotte, Countess of Derby, who held it to the last Extremity against the Parliament Forces, which could never reduce her to capitulate; but kept the Place gloriously, till she was relieved by Prince Rupert. It was, however, ruined in a second Siege, and is now sold out of the Family, and in Possession of Thomas Bootle, Esq who is building a magnificent House there.

Fernby, a Village, lies near the Sea-side, in the marshy Grounds, where they dig Turf, that serves both for Fire and Candle. These marshy Grounds extend a great Way North up, beyond Eccleston, and almost up to Preston. On the Edge of it Eastward is Marton Mere, which has been very large; but much of it is now drained.

Eccleston is a Market-town, where nothing remarkable is to be seen: Nor at Charley, a Town of the same Kind; which lies a little North-east of it.

Preston stands next, a corporate Mayor Town, having Three weekly Markets, well supplied and frequented. It is a large fine Town, situated on the Ribble: it is pretty full of People, but not like Liverpoole or Manchester; for we now come beyond the trading Part of the County. But tho' there is no Manufacture, the Town being honoured with the Court of Chancery, and the Officers of Justices for Lancaster, is full of Gentlemen, Attorneys, Proctors, and Notaries, the Process of Law being here of a different Nature from that in other Places, by reason that it is a Duchy and County Palatine, and has particular Privileges of its own. The People are gay here, tho' not perhaps the richer for that; but it has, on this Account, obtained the Name of Proud Preston. Here is a great deal of good Company, but not so much, they say, as was before the late bloody Action with the Northern Rebels; not that the Battle hurt many of the immediate Inhabitants, but the Consequences of it so severely affected many Families thereabout, that they still retain the Remembrance of it.

Not far from Preston is Ribchester, supposed to be the Bretonomacum of the Antients; a Town which in its flourishing State was said to be the richest in Christendom. So many Pieces of Antiquity have been dug up in its Neighbourhood, that it was most probably a Place of great Importance among the antient Romans.

Between the Ribble, and a little River some Miles South of Lancaster, the Land elbows out, in the Form of a Semi-circle, into the Sea; and this Tract they call the Field-lands, in which is a small Market-town, called Kirkham; only remarkable for a good Free-school which has Three Masters.

Poulton is another Market-town in the same Tract, very convenient in its Situation for Trade, being near the Mouth of the River Wire. We followed the Postroad, and passed through Garstang, which stands upon it, about Midway between Preston and Lancaster, and is of no other Note than having a Market; and so leaving Wiredale Forest on our Right, we arrived at

Lancaster, the County Town, situate near the Mouth of the River Lone, or Lune. The Town is antient, and has little else to recommend it than that, and to have given Title to many Branches of the Royal Family of England. It has a decayed Castle, and a more decayed Port, not capable of receiving Ships of any considerable Burden. The Bridge has Five Arches, and is handsome and strong; but here is little or no Trade, and few People. It surprised me to hear, that there are not above 60 Parishes in all this large County; but many of them are consequently very large, and there are above 120 Chapels of Ease, no less than 16 of which are in one Parish.

The Castle of Lancaster is now the County Gaol, and the Assizes are held in it. The Town has only one Parish Church, which is fair and spacious.

It is governed by a Mayor, &c. to whom Edw. III. granted the Privilege, That Pleas and Sessions in the County should be held no-where but at Lancaster. It is the Longovicum of the Romans, who have had a Station here. On the steepest Side of the Hill below the Church hangs a Piece of a Roman Wall called Wery-wall, derived, as Camden thinks, from the British Word Caerwirdd, a green City, from the Verdure of the Hills.

As we came along the Sea-side, we observed a Kind of strange Crows, whose Bodies are blue, and Heads and Wings black.

Not far from Lancaster, at the Foot of a high Hill called Warton Crag, (on the Top of which is a Beacon) stands an agreeable little obscure Town named Warton, upon the Side of a Lake, where is a good Grammar-school, with Accommodations, and a Library for the Benefit of the Masters; which, together with an Hospital for Six poor Men, was founded and endowed by Dr. Hutton, then Bishop of Durham, in 1594, who was afterwards translated to York; which certainly must have been then a Bishoprick of very great Value, to have induced him to quit Durham for it, notwithstanding its being an Archbishoprick, and the Title of Grace annexed to its Prelate. Here is also a very neat-built Church.

Higher up North, towards the Extremity of the County, next Westmorland, is Hornby Castle, upon the River L•n; which is an excellent Building, the Seat of the Lords of Monteagle, a Branch of the Stanleys, and since of the Parkers, one of whom, marrying into that Family, had, in King James I.'s Time, the same Title conferr'd on him; and 'twas this Nobleman who discover'd the Powder-plot.

This Part of the Country seemed very strange and dismal to us, after coming from the South-side, which is so rich and fertile, that it is noted for shewing the largest Breed of Cows and Oxen in the Kingdom, whose Bulk, as well as Horns, are of such a Magnitude as is very astonishing; besides their fine spotted Deer, which are said to be peculiar to that Part of the County.

Here, among the Mountains, our Curiosity was frequently moved to inquire what high Hill this was, or that; and we soon were saluted with that old Verse in Camden,

Ingleborough, Pendle-hill, and Penigent,

Are the highest Hills between Scotland and Trent.

Indeed they were all, in my Judgment, of a stupendous Height; but in a Country all mountainous and full of high Hills, it was not easy for a Traveller to judge which was highest.

As these Hills were lofty, so they had an Aspect of Terror. Here were no rich pleasant Valleys between them, as among the Alps; no Lead Mines and Veins of rich Ore, as in the Peak; no Coal-pits, as in the Hills about Halifax; but all barren and wild, and of no Use either to Man or Beast. Indeed here were formerly, as far back as the Time of Queen Elizabeth, some Copper Mines, and they wrought them to good Advantage; but whether the Vein of Ore failed, or what else was the Reason, we know not, but they are all given over long since, and this Part of the Country yields little or nothing at all.

West of Hornby Castle is a considerable Tract of Ground, which is Part of this County, and runs North, parallel with the West-side of Westmorland, and the West-side of Cumberland, and on the South it runs out in a Promontory into the Sea; it is called Fourness. We passed over the Sands into it, which are very dangerous, and unpassable without Guides, who are kept here for that Purpose, at the Expence of the Government. It contains, besides Villages, Four Market-towns, called Cartmel, Dalton, Ulverston, and Howkshead, but are of no great Note. It is very mountainous, and full of Lakes or Meres; the largest is Winander Mere, which makes the utmost Northern Bound of this Tract of Ground, as of this Shire. It is famous for producing the Char-fish, seldom found, unless it be at Ulles-water, bordering on Westmorland, and in North-Wales, as I have mention'd before. It is a curious Fish, and, as a Dainty, is potted, and sent far and near by way of Present. It must needs be a great Rarity, since the Quantity they take, even here, is but small. Mr. Camden's Continuator calls it very happily the Golden Alpine Trout. This Mere is 18 Miles in Circumference, 10 in Length, and Two in Diameter, and the Bottom is paved, as it were, with one continued Rock.

Lancashire, as has been said, is a County Palatine; and was wont to give Title of Duke to a Branch of the Royal Family; and till the Two Roses, the White and Red, were united in the Marriage of Henry VII. of the Lancaster Line, with Elizabeth, Heiress of the House of York, these Two Branches of the Royal Family, by their different Pretensions to the Crown, gave Occasion to the Wars and Confusions, which for many Years made England a Scene of Blood and Desolation. Three successive Princes, Hen. IV. V. and VI. were of the Lancaster Line; and the latter lost his Crown and Life, as did his princely Son, to Edward IV. of the House of York, whose Two Sons being murder'd by their Uncle Richard III. and he himself killed at Bosworth-field, the Lancaster Line was again restored in Henry VII. who married the Heiress of the House of York, as has been said.

Lancashire Witches are so much a Phrase, that I have reserved to this Place, to mention, that an Act passed the 9th of his present Majesty, King George II. to rescue those poor old Creatures, who, by the Ignorance and Superstition of the rustick Rabble, were styled Witches, from the Terror of the Laws, which tho' in some sort looked upon as obsolete, were nevertheless in Force against them, and had given too much Occasion (till within these few Years past, that the Tryal and Acquittal of Jane Wenman, as I have mentioned in p. 185. Vol. II. discouraged the wild Fury and superstitious Ignorance of the Vulgar) for persecuting poor Wretches, whose Age and Infirmities, as well as miserable Poverty, were enough, one would have thought, to intitle them to Pity, rather than to the barbarous Usage they were wont to meet with.

This Act repeals the Statute made in the First Year of the Reign of that Witch-making Prince[*], King James I. (who shew'd himself no more in this, than in other Actions of his Life, a Conjurer) intitled, An Act against Conjuration, Witchcraft, and dealing with evil and wicked Spirits; and also repeals an Act of the Parliament of Scotland, Anents Witchcrafts, &c.

And here we may be allowed to give a Caution to many of our fair Readers, as well as to the lower Class of Fortune-casters, by Coffee-grounds, &c. For by this Act, Persons pretending to tell Fortunes, and to discover lost or stollen Goods, by virtue of any occult Art or Science, shall be imprisoned a Year; and once every Quarter of that Year, be pillory'd; and oblig'd to find Security for their good Behaviour, at the Pleasure of the Court in which Conviction shall pass. And here let me be further indulged to observe, that certain married Ladies, who may incur the Penalty of this Act, may be still worse off than Maidens, because perhaps their Husbands can, the least of all others, be expected to be bound for their requisite good Behaviour.

I now enter'd Westmorland, a County eminent only for being the wildest, most barren, and frightful of any that I have passed over in England, or in Wales. The West Side, which borders on Cumberland, is indeed bounded by a Chain of almost unpassable Mountains, which, in the Language of the Country, are called Fells, and these are called Fourness Fells, from the Promontory which I just mentioned, and an Abbey built also in antient Times, called Fourness. The whole County is divided into the Barony of Kendal, which is very mountainous, and in the Diocese of Chester; and the Barony of Westmorland, a large champaign Country, in the Diocese of Carlisle.

It must be owned, however, that here are some very pleasant manufacturing Towns, and consequently populous.

The Manufacture in which the People are imployed, are chiefly Woollen Cloths, especially at Kirkby-Lonsdale, and Kendal.

Kendal is a rich and populous Town, has a Free-school well endow'd, and drives a great Trade in Woollen Cloth, Cottons, Druggets, Serges, Hats, and Stockens.

Over the River Ken, whereon Kendal stands, are Two Bridges of Stone, and another of Wood. At some small Distance from the last, are to be seen the Ruins of a Castle; which was the Birth-place of Catharine Parr, the Sixth Wife of Henry VIII. The Church is fair and spacious, and there are Two Chapels of Ease to it. Near the Church-yard stands a fair publick School, whence a certain Number of Scholars are elected to Queen's-college, Oxon. It gives Title of Duchess to Erengard Schulemberg, a Lady of prime Consequence in the Reign of King George I.

Lonsdale or Kirkby-Lonsdale, is a large Town, has a fair Church, Stone Bridge, and a good Trade for Cloth; and gives Title of Viscount to the noble Family of Louther.

The Upper, or Northern Part of the County, has Two manufacturing Towns, called Kirkby-Stephen, and Appleby; the last is the Capital of the County, has a Free-school and Hospital, and is the only Town in the County that sends Members to Parliament. A great Manufacture of Yarn Stockens is carried on at Kirkby-Stephen.

My Lord Lonsdale, of the Family of Louther, had a very noble and antient Seat at Louther, and upon the River Louther, which all together add a Dignity to the Family, and are Tests of its Antiquity. The House was beautiful, but the Stables were the Wonder of England, being esteemed the largest and finest that any Nobleman or Gentleman in Britain is Master of: and his Lordship breeds as good Running Horses, and Hunters, as most in England. But the House was of late unfortunately burnt down, and all its fine Pictures and Furniture consumed, and is not yet rebuilt.

Near the River Louther is a Spring, which ebbs and flows several times in a Day.

In this County the noble Family of Wharton had their Seat in a Place of the same Name.

When we enter'd at the South Part of this County, I began indeed to think of Merionethshire, and the Mountains of Snowden in North Wales, seeing nothing round me, in many Places, but unpassable Hills, whose Tops, covered with Snow, seemed to tell us, all the pleasant Part of England was at an End. The great Winander Mere, extending itself like a Sea, on the West Side, from North Bridge on the South, where it contracts itself again into a River, up to Gresemere North, and is the Boundary of the County, as I have said, on that Side; and the English Apennines, as Mr. Camden calls the Mountains of Yorkshire North-riding, lie like a Wall of Brass on the other; and indeed in the most literal Sense they are so: for it is the Opinion of the most skilful and knowing People in the County, that they are full of inexhaustible Mines of Copper, which is convertible into Brass, and a Quantity of Gold in them also: nay, of late Years, they worked at some Copper Mines here; but the Ore lies so deep, and is so hard to come at, that they did not seem to go chearfully on.

But notwithstanding the terrible Aspect of the Hills, when we had passed by Kendal, and descended from the frightful Mountains, the flat Country began to shew itself; and we soon found the North and Northeast Part of the County to be pleasant, rich, fruitful, and, if compared to the other Part, may be said to be populous. The River Eden, the last River of England on this Side, as the Tyne is on the other, rises in this Part out of the Side of a prodigious high Mountain, called Mowill Hill, or Wildbore Fell, which you please; after which, it runs thro' the Middle of this Vale, which, as I said before, is a very agreeable and pleasant Country, or, perhaps, seems to be so the more, in Comparison with the horrid Height and Narrowness of the Eastern and Southern Parts. An Act passed some Years ago to make this River navigable, in which the neighbouring Country find great Advantage.

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In the Vale, and on the Bank of this River, stands Appleby, or Apulby, the Abalaba of the Antients, once a flourishing City, now a scattering, decayed, and half-demolished Town, the fatal Effects of the antient Inroads of the Scots, who used to make frequent Incursions on this County, and became several times Masters of this Town, and at length burnt it to the Ground; a Blow it has not yet recovered.

There are not many Seats of the Nobility in this Part, tho' several antient Families receive their Names from hence, as Strickland from the Lands of Strickland, Wharton (now extinct) from Wharton-hall, Louther from the River Louther, Warcop of Warcop, Langdale of Langdale, Musgrave from Musgrave, &c.

The Roman Highway, which I have so often mentioned, and which, in my last Letter, I left at Leeming-lane and Peers-bridge in the North-riding of York, enters this County from Rear-cross, or Ree-cross, upon Stanmore, and crossing it almost due East and West, goes through Appleby, passing the Eden a little North from Perith, at an antient Roman Station called Brovoniacum, where was a large and stately Stone Bridge; but now the great Road leads to the Left-hand to Perith; in going to which, we first pass the Eden at a very good Stone Bridge, called Louther Bridge, and then the Elnot over another.

Perith, or Penrith, called by the Romans Verterae, is a handsome Market-town, populous and well-built, and, for an Inland Town, has a very good Share of Trade. It was unhappily possessed by the late Party of Scots Highland Rebels, when they made that desperate Push into England, which ended at Preston. In the Moor, or Heath, on the North Part of this Town, the Militia of the County, making a brave Appearance, and infinitely outnumbering the Highlanders, were drawn up; yet, with their usual Bravery, they ran away as soon as the Scots began to advance to charge them, and never fired a Gun, leaving the Town at their Mercy. However, to do Justice to the Rebels, they offered no Injury to the Town, only quartered in it one Night, took what Arms and Ammunition they could find, and advanced towards Kendal.

In Westmorland, not far from the River Louther, is a Row of Pyramidal Stones, Eight or Nine Feet high, pitch'd directly in a Row for a Mile together, and placed at equal Distances from each other.

From hence, in one Stage, thro' a Country full of Castles, (for almost every Gentleman's House is a Castle) we came to Carlisle, a small, but well fortified City, the Frontier Place and Key of England on the West Sea, as Berwick upon Tweed is on the East; in both which there have been, for many Years, I might say Ages, strong Garisons kept to check the invading Scots. From below this Town the famous Picts Wall began, which crossed the whole Island to Newcastle upon Tyne, which was built upon the following Occasion:

When the Romans settled here by Force of Arms, they were always harass'd by the Picts, on the Side of Scotland. To stop their Inroads, the Emperor Adrian caused a Wall of Earth to be built, extending from the German to the Irish Sea, the Space of 80 Miles, or 27 French Leagues, and caused it to be palisado'd, Anno 123. Severus, the Emperor, built it up of Stone, with Turrets from Mile to Mile, and kept a Garison therein. But the Picts, nevertheless, broke in thro' this Wall more than once. At last, Aetius, a Roman General, rebuilt it of Brick, in 430; but 'twas not long before it was pulled down by the Picts. It was Eight Feet thick, and 12 Feet high from the Ground: some Part of it is still to be seen, both in Northumberland and Cumberland.

Here also the great Roman Highway, just before named, has its End, this being the utmost Station of the Roman Soldiers on this Side.

But before I go on to speak of Carlisle, I must return to the Sea Coast, which, in this Northern County, is more remarkable than that of Lancashire, tho' the other is extended much farther in length; for here are some Towns of good Trade: whereas in Lancashire, Liverpoole excepted, there is nothing of Trade to be seen upon the Coast.

The first Place I shall mention is Ravenglass, in the South End of the County, which runs between Fourness and the Sea. 'Tis a well-built Sea Port, and Market-town, upon the River Esk, and on each Side of it run down to the Sea two other small Rivers, which, together with the Sea, make a good Harbour for Ships, and surrounds three Parts of the Town, which occasions a pretty good Trade to it.

The Cape or Head-land of St. Bees (deriv'd from St. Bega, an Irish Female Saint) still preserves its Name.

In the Town is a very good Free-school, founded by Archbishop Grindal, who was born here. It was very well endowed by him, and the Charity much increased by the late Dr. Lamplugh, Archbishop of York, Dr. Smith, Bishop of Carlisle, Sir John Louther, and others.

The Library annexed to this Foundation is very valuable, and still increasing by several Gifts daily added to it. Tho' the Parish is vastly large, the Vicarage is very poorly endowed.

Near St. Bees stands a little Market-town, call'd Egremont, noted only for its antient Castle and Barons, and for losing their Privilege of returning Members.

Under this Shore, higher up North, and near the Cape, is the Town of Whitehaven, grown up by the Encouragement of the Louther Family, from a small Place, to be very considerable by the Coal Trade, which is so much increased of late, that it is the most eminent Port in England for it, next Newcastle; for the City of Dublin, and all the Towns of Ireland on that Coast, and some Parts of Scotland, and the Isle of Man, are wholly supply'd from hence. 'Tis frequent in time of War, or upon Occasion of cross Winds, to have 200 Sail of Ships at a time go from this Place to Dublin loaden with Coals. And Sir James Louther, particularly, is said to send from hence to Ireland annually, as many Coals as bring him in near 20,000l. a Year.

This Increase of Shipping has led them on to Merchandizing; but the Town is but of few Years standing in Trade: for Mr. Camden does not so much as name the Place, and his Continuator says very little of it.

And indeed the Town must be allow'd to owe principally its flourishing Condition to Two Acts of Parliament, one of the 7th, the other of the 11th of Queen Anne, by virtue of which the Harbour was so considerably deepened and improved, and such strong and substantial Moles and Bulwarks erected, that Ships, which before were liable to be driven and cast away on the Rocks and Shoals on that Coast, could lie in Safety, and be secure from the Violence of the Sea. The happy Success of these Works encourag'd the Town to apply to Parliament for Powers still farther to improve the good Design, that so, by inlarging the Moles and Works, and extending them to Low-water Mark, such Depth might be obtained, that the largest Ships belonging to the Town might sail in and out of the Harbour at Neap Tides, and that other Ships frequenting these Seas, might sail in at Half-flood. And accordingly an Act passed for this laudable Purpose, in the Self. 1739-40, which will prebably effectuate these good Ends, and not only preserve the Lives of many Mariners, but still further improve the Trade and Navigation of this already flourishing Town. The same Act provides likewise for the Repair of the Roads about and leading to Whitehaven, which were become ruinous and bad, by the great Use made of them since the Improvements made in the Harbour; for before that they were very narrow, and seldom made use of by Carts and Wheel-carriages. All these Advantages and Increase of Trade have occasion'd a new Church to be lately built at Whitehaven. Here is likewise a good Trade for Salt.

Still a little higher to the North is Moresby, where 'tis supposed has been a Roman Fort, there appearing a great many Ruins of Fortifications along the Sea Coast, and other Antiquities.

About ten Miles North-east from Whitehaven lies Cockermouth, between two Hills, upon the little River Cocker, just where it falls into the Derwent; and is almost incompassed by the Two Rivers. The former runs thro' it, and is joined again by Two Bridges. It is a Town of good Trade, and well-built. It has a Castle on one Hill, and a fair Church on the other. It is about 12 Miles from the Sea, and Vessels of good Burden may securely come up to it. The Derwent is famous for its springing out of those Hills called Derwent Fells, where the antient Copper Mines were found in Queen Elizabeth's Time, and in which, it was said, there was a large Quantity of Gold. But they are discontinued since, some say, because Gold being found among the Ore, the Queen claimed the Royalty, and so nobody would work them: but this is rather a Reason why they should have applied to the Search with more Vigour; therefore the more probable Cause is, that the Charge of working them was too great for the Profits.

A little East of Cockermouth stands Keswick, a little Market-town, in Decay, inhabited chiefly by Miners, who have their Smelting-houses here, there being near this Place Mines of Black-lead, which turn to very good Account, and I think are the only Mines of the kind in Britain.

Here we saw Skiddaw, which is there reported to be the highest Hill in England. It seems the higher, because it is not surrounded with other Mountains, like most of other Counties, as at Cheviot, Penigent, and other Places. From the Top of Skiddaw one sees plainly into Scotland, and quite into Dumfriesshire, and farther.

The Duke of Somerset is chief Lord of Cockermouth, in Right of his late Duchess, the only Heiress of the antient Family of the Piercies, Earls of Northumberland.

The Castles and great Houses of this Estate fall to Ruin, as indeed all the Castles in this County do; for the two Kingdoms being now united into one, strong Holds are of no more Use here, than in any other Part of the Kingdom. I think they told us, the Duke has no less than 13 Castles in this County, and in Northumberland.

This Derwent is noted for Trout, and also for very good Salmon; which from Workington, a Fishing-town at the Mouth of this River, they carry, fresh as they take them, up to London, upon Horses, which, changing often, go Night and Day without Intermission, and, as they say, out-go the Post; so that the Fish come very sweet and good to London, where the extraordinary Price they yield, from two Shillings and Sixpence to four Shillings per Pound, pays very well for the Carriage. They do the same from Carlisle.

Jerby, now a considerable Market-town, stands North-east of Cockermouth. It is supposed to be the Arbeia of the Antients.

From the Mouth of the Derwent to that of the Elen is supposed to have been fortified by the Romans, to prevent the Landing of the Scots and Irish, who infested these Coasts; for here have been several Ruins of Fortifications discovered, and some of them since Camden's Time. At Elenborough, 'tis said, the first Cohort of Dalmatians were garison'd, where are great Remains of them still to be seen, old Vaults open'd, Altars, Stones, and Statues, with Inscriptions dug up, on them. And at Wigton, a small Market-town, further North in the Forest of Allerdale, are several Altars pitch'd, which they say were brought from Elenborough, and old Carlisle. But if I was to dwell upon Antiquities, I should find Work enough in this County; and therefore must refer you to such Writers as have treated of them.

In Whitfield Park, at the Borders of this County, they shew you a Hawthorn Tree, against which the Heads of a Stag and a Dog were formerly nailed up, in Memory of a famous Chace. It seems the Dog (not a Greyhound, as Mr. Camden's Continuator calls it, but a stanch Buckhound) singly chased a Stag from this Park, as far as the Red Kirk in Scotland, which, they say, is sixty Miles at least, and back again to the same Place; where, being both spent, the Stag, exerting his last Force, leap'd the Park Pales, and died on the Inside; the Hound, attempting to leap after him, had not Strength enough to get over, and fell back, and died on the Outside just opposite. The Heads of both were nailed upon the Tree, and underneath this Distich on them. The Hound's Name, it seems, was Hercules:

Hercules kill'd Hart-a-Greese,

And Hart-a-Greese kill'd Hercules.

In the same Park were three Oak Trees, which were called the Three Brether, the least of which was 13 Yards about; but two of them being quite gone, and only the Stump of the other remaining, I did not think it worth my Time to visit such a decayed Curiosity.

West of the Hawthorn Tree, and upon the old Roman Way, is the famous Column, called the Countess Pillar, the best and most beautiful Piece of its Kind in Britain. It is a fine Column of Free-stone, curiously wrought and enchas'd, and in some Places painted. It has an Obelisk on the Top, several Coats of Arms, and other Ornaments in proper Places all over it, with Dials also on every Side, and a Brass Plate with the following Inscription, in Capital Letters.‘ This Pillar was erected Anno 1656, by the Right Honourable ANNE Countess Dowager of Pembroke, and sole Heir of the Right Honourable George Earl of Cumberland, &c. for a Memorial of her last parting in this Place with her good and pious Mother, the Right Honourable Margaret Countess Dowager of Cumberland, the Second of April 1616: in Memory whereof she also left an Annuity of Four Pounds, to be distributed to the Poor within this Parish of Brougham, every Second Day of April for ever, upon the Stone Table here by. ’

This Countess of Pembroke had a noble and great Estate in this County, and a great many fine old Seats, all which she repaired and beautified, and dwelt sometimes at one, and sometimes at another, for the Benefit of her Tenants, and of the Poor, whom she always made desirous of her Presence, constantly relieving them by her Bounty and Hospitality. But those Estates are since that Time gone into other Families, particularly into that of the Earl of Thanet, who has great Estates in Westmorland.

This Lady was of the Family of Clifford; she had no less than Four Castles in this County, of which Pendragon Castle was the chief, which is a fine Building to this Day.

Penrith is accounted the second Town in the County for Wealth and Trade. It is large and well-built, has a very good Market for all Sorts of Commodities and Beasts. The Market-house is convenient and spacious, the Church is large and noble; the West-side was defended with a Royal Castle, tho' now in Ruins. In the Church-yard we saw Two Pillars 14 or 15 Feet asunder, and the lowest of them 12 Feet high, tho' they seem equal. The People told us, that they were the Monument of Sir Owen Caesar; but there is no Inscription upon them. This Sir Owen, they tell us, was a Champion of mighty Strength, and of gigantick Stature; and so he was, to be sure, if, as they say, he was as tall as one of the Columns, and could touch both Pillars with his Hands at the same time. They relate no other great Actions of him, but that he killed Robbers, and destroyed wild Boars.

On the North-side of the Vestry of this Church is erected in the Wall an antient square Stone, with a Memorial, intimating, that in the Year 1598, there was a dreadful Plague in those Parts, in which there died in Kendal 2500 Persons; in Penrith 2266; in Richmond 2200; in Carlisle 1196.

By this Account it should seem, that every one of those Towns had separately more People than the City of Carlisle, or else the Distemper was not so pestilential there; and that Kendal, which is the only manufacturing Town of them, was the most populous.

We did not go into the Grotto on the Bank of the River Eden, of which mention is made by Camden's Continuator, the People informing us, that the Passage was blocked up with Earth; so I must be content with telling you, that it seems to have been a Lurking-place for Robbers, in old Time. A Place of Strength it could not be; for its Security seems to have consisted solely in its Secrecy. It had certainly been worth seeing, had it been passable. The Entry is long and dark, but whether strait or crooked, I cannot say. The Iron Gates leading to it are gone, nor is there any Sign of them, or what they were hung to.

Higher up on the Eden, the East-side of the County, is Kirk-Oswald, an indifferent Market-town, that has nothing of Note; and Brampton stands N. E. of Carlisle, on the River Itching, about a Mile beyond the Picts Wall, which has likewise nothing worth remarking, saving an Hospital built by the Lady Carlisle, Grandmother to the present Earl, for Six poor Men, and as many Women.

At Burgh upon the Sands, a little Distance from Carlisle, is the Monument of our victorious Prince Edward I. who having so far subdued the Scots, as to bring away the sacred Stone at Scone Abbey, whereon their Kings used to be crowned, died here in his Camp, on his March against them, like a true Soldier, guarding his Frontiers with his latest Breath. In Memory of him there was afterwards erected a fair square Pillar nine Yards and a half high, with these Inscriptions on Three Sides.

On the West Side: ‘ Memoriae aeternae EDVARDI I. Regis Angliae longe clarissimi, qui in belli apparatu contra Scotos occupatus, hic in castris obiit 7. Julii A. D. 1•07.’ On the South Side: ‘ Nobilissimus Princeps HENRICUS HOWARD, dux Norfolciae, comes Mareschal. Angliae, comes Arund. &c. . . . . . ab EDVARDO I. Rege Angliae oriundus, P. 1685.’ On the North Side: ‘JOHANNES AGLIONBY, J. C. F.’ Beneath, ‘THO. LANGSTONE fecit, 1685.’

Caerlisle, the Lugo-vallum, or rather Brovoniacum of the Romans, is situated exceedingly pleasant by the Picts Wall, and guarded by Three Rivers; by the Eden on the North, by the Peterel on the East, and on the West by the Caude. It is a Place of great Antiquity, being first builtby an antient British Prince named Luel, and from him called Caer Luel, i. e. Luel's Town, to which it retains an Affinity of Sound to this Day. It has suffer'd the Fate of most Frontier Towns; been taken, retaken, burnt, and destroyed several times by the Scots, Danes, and Norwegians; and lay once in its Ruins for near 200 Years, till William Rufus rebuilt it, who sent a Colony of Southern Englishmen to it, and who is said likewise to have built the Castle. Henry I. dignified it with an Episcopal See, and fortified it as a proper Barrier against the Scots.

The Cathedral Church is a venerable old Pile, but seems to have been built at Two different times, or, as it were, rebuilt, the upper Part being much more modern than the lower. A great Part of it was built by St. David, King of Scotland, who held this County, together with Westmorland and Northumberland, in Vassalage from the Crown of England. He, and many of his Successors, were great Benefactors to it, and nominated several of the Bishops; but almost the whole Nave, or West Part of it, was demolished by the Scots, in the Civil Wars. There is another Church called St. Cuthbert's.

King Henry VIII. fortified this City against the Scots, and built an additional Castle to it on the East Side, which Camden calls a Citadel. On the Northwest is a Garison. The City has Three Gates, and the Walls round it are so thick, that Three Men may walk abreast on them, within the Parapet. Over the Eden is a Bridge which soon lets you into Scotland, the Limits not being above Six Miles off; for the South Part of it on this Side comes at least 50 Miles farther into England than at Berwick.

Carlisle is a wealthy and populous Place, and the Houses are well-built, but it is not very large. Here flourishes a good Trade in Fustians.

I made a Trip, when I was in these Parts, to Parton, in this County, which I the rather mention because of the Improvements made in its Harbour of late Years, by virtue of Acts of Parliament made for that Purpose.

For in the fourth and fifth of the late Queen Anne, an Act had passed for inlarging the Piers and Harbour of that Town; but by the Negligence or Death of Trustees, the Works intended by the Act, were not carried to Effect. This proving a great Disappointment to the Inhabitants, who had built Houses on a Prospect of a considerable Trade in Exportation of Coals, and other Commodities of the County; in the Year 1724, another Act passed for Rebuilding the said Piers and Harbour. In Consequence of this Act, the Pier was rebuilt, and the Harbour made capable of receiving several small Ships, and a Trade for Coals to Ireland and other Parts commenced. This gave Encouragement for another Act, which passed Anno 1732, to inlarge the Term for 21 Years after the Expiration of the former, in order to make the Harbour still more complete, for the Reception of Ships of greater Burden, and to inlarge the River, cleanse the Harbour, and to bring into it a small Brook, called Maresby-beck, which runs near it. All which will be of great Use to the Place, as well as to Trade and Navigation in general.

In this Northern County are more noted Roman Antiquities found, than almost in any other. It has a Lake called Ulles-water, noted for producing the excellent Fish called Char, almost peculiar to it, and to Winander-mere. Wry-nose, one of its highest Hills, is remarkable for its Three Shire Stones, a Foot Distance each, one in Cumberland, one in Westmorland, and the third in Lancashire.

Near Salkeld in this County is a Trophy erected, vulgarly call'd Long Meg and her Daughters, consisting of 77 Stones; Long Meg 15 Feet above Ground, and the rest but 10.

This having been a Frontier County, the antient Houses of the Nobility and Gentry are built for the most part Castle-wise, and are called Castles. Thus Grey-stock Castle and Drumbough Castle belong to the Duke of Norfolk; Cockermouth Castle to the Duke of Somerset; Naworth Castle to the Earl of Carlisle; Dacre Castle to the late Earl of Sussex; Corby Castle, Mr. Howard's. And here I must be a little more particular on the last, which deserves the Observation of the Curious. Corby Castle is situated about Four Miles S. E. of Carlisle, and is the Seat of the said Mr. Howard, a Descendant from the Duke of Norfolk's Family. The Building is of Stone, neat, but plain. The Entrance to this House is by a large square Court-yard. On the Right-hand are the Gardens, and on the Left Offices for the Servants, and Stabling for Horses. It is plentifully water'd by Springs in several large Reservoirs made about the House, which stands on the Precipice of a high Rock, which is in the Backpart about 100 Feet high. In this Rock is cut a regular Pair of Stairs of about Six Feet wide, with all their Ornaments down to the Bottom. As you descend these Stairs, you pass by several Rooms hewn out of the Rock, of about 16 Feet square, which have no other Furniture than Tables, and Seats made out of the Stone. At the Bottom of those Stairs you ascend another Pair about 10 Feet high, which leads to a Terrace made in Form of a Semicircle, by the Side of which runs the River Eden, having a Pair of Stairs to take Water at. The Terrace presents a fine View of another Part of the Rock, of equal Height with the former; from the Top of which is placed a Cascade so wonderfully curious, that I know nothing like it. It is at least 100 Feet high, and the Water is broken by the pointed Ridges of the Rock into so many various Shapes, and the Springs fly about you in so delightfully rude a manner, as to entertain you with a great Instance of the Power of Art in imbellishing Nature, which is further heighten'd by a natural Cascade, (effected by this artificial one) of which you have a distinct Prospect, when you arrive at the Landing-stairs.

From hence you have another View, of half a Mile long, of the River on the Right-hand; and a hanging Grove of Trees, just as Nature has placed them, on the Left. As you pass along a Gravelwalk, you see several Figures placed there for Ornament; at the End of the Walk is a small Banqueting-room, with a Portico in the Front, facing this Walk: it is call'd Tempe-alter'. In this River is a Weir, well-stock'd with Salmon and other Fish. On the other Side of the River, over-against the House, are the Remains of an old Castle, which is called Weatheral-Tower, under which is an Hermit's Cave.

Westward of Lancashire and Cumberland lies the Isle of Man; of which I shall take Notice among the Western Isles of Scotland. [See VOL. IV. p. 253.]

Cumberland gives Title of Duke to his Royal Highness Prince William, his Majesty's second Son; as it did before to his Royal Highness George Prince of Denmark, Consort of the late Queen Anne.

Being now at the utmost Extent of England this Way, I shall conclude my Letter with a few Observations upon the ROADS of this Part of the United Kingdom in general. And first of the natural Soil in many Places, where not mended by Turnpikes.

The Soil of all the Midland Part of England, even from Sea to Sea, is of a deep stiff Clay, or marly Earth; and it carries a Breadth of near 50 Miles at least, in some Places much more; nor is it possible to go from London to any Part of Britain, North, without crossing this clayey dirty Part. For Example:

1. Suppose we had been to take the great Northern Post Road from London to York, and so into Scotland; you have tolerable good Ways, and hard Ground, till you reach Royston, about 32 Miles, and to Kneesworth, a Mile farther: but from thence you used to enter upon the Clays, which beginning at the famous Arrington-Lanes, and going on to Caxton, Huntingdon, Stilton, Stamford, Grantham, Newark, Tuxford, (called for its Deepness, Tuxford in the Clays) hold on till we come almost to Bautree, which is the first Town in Yorkshire, and there the Country is naturally hard and sound, being Part of Shirwood Forest.

2. Suppose you had been to take the other Northern Road, by St. Albans, Dunstable, Hockley, Newport-Pagnel, Northampton, Leicester, and Nottingham, or Derby: After you are pass'd Dunstable, which is about 30 Miles, you used to enter the deep Clays, which were so surprisingly soft, that it was perfectly frightful to Travellers, and had been the Wonder of Foreigners, how, considering the great Numbers of Carriages which are continually passing with heavy Loads, those Ways have been made practicable. From Hockley to Northampton, thence to Harborough and Leicester, and thence to the very Banks of Trent, these terrible Clays continue; at Nottingham you are past them; and the Forest of Shirwood naturally yields a hard and pleasant Road for 30 Miles together.

3. Take the same Road as it leads to Coventry, and from thence to West-Chester, the deep Clays reach through all the Towns of Brickhill, Fenny and Stony Stratford, Towcester, Daventry, Hill-Morton, or Dunchurch, Coventry, Coleshill, and even to Birmingham, for near 80 Miles.

4. If we took the Road to Worcester, it used to be the same through the Vale of Ailesbury to Buckingham, and Westward to Banbury, Keynton, and the Vale of Evesham, where the Clays reach, with some Intermissions, even to the Bank of Severn, as they do more Northerly quite to West-Chester.

This natural Difficulty of the Soil thro' all the midland Country, where the Carriage at the same time was so prodigious, and made some of the Highways in a manner impassable, necessarily brought the Country to apply to Parliament; and the Consequence has been, that Turnpikes or Toll-bars have been set up on the several great Roads of England, beginning at London, and proceeding thro' almost all those dirty deep Roads, in the Midland Counties especially; at which Turnpikes all Carriages, Droves of Cattle, and Travellers on Horseback, are obliged to pay an easy Toll; which bears no Comparison with the Benefit reap'd thereby: and 'tis well worth recording, for the Honour of the present Age, that this Work has been begun, and is in an extraordinary manner carry'd on, and perhaps may, in a great measure, be completed within our Memory, as to the worst and most dangerous Roads in the Kingdom. And this is a Work of so much general Good, that certainly no publick Edifice, Alms-house, Hospital, or Nobleman's Palace, can be of equal Value to the Country with this, nor at the same time more an Honour and Ornament to it.

The Benefit of these Turnpikes appears now to be so great, and the People in all Places begin to be so sensible of it, that it is incredible what Effect it has already had upon Trade in the Counties where the Roads are completely finished; even the Carriage of Goods is abated, in some Places, 6d. per hundred Weight; in others, 12d. per Hundred; which is abundantly more Advantage to Commerce, than the Charge paid amounts to; and yet at the same time the Expence is paid by the Carriers too, who make the Abatement; so that the Benefit in abating the Rate of Carriage is wholly and simply the Tradesmens, not the Carriers.

Yet the Advantage is evident to the latter also another way; for they can bring more Weight with the same Number of Horses, nor are their Horses so hard-work'd and fatigu'd with their Labour as they were before; in which one Particular 'tis acknowleged by the Carriers, they perform their Work with more Ease, and the Masters are at less Expence.

The Advantage is also inexpressible to all other kinds of Travelling; such as the Safety and Ease to Gentlemen journeying up to London on all Occasions, whether to the Term, to Parliament, to Court, or on any other necessary Occasion.

Also the Riding Post, as well for the ordinary carrying of the Mails, as for Gentlemen, when their Occasions require Speed, is made extremely easy, safe and pleasant, by this Alteration of the Roads.

The Safety of Travelling on this Occasion is the more to be insisted on, because the Commissioners for these Repairs of the Highways do daily order Bridges to be repair'd and inlarg'd, and new ones built, where they find Occasion; which not only serve to carry the Water off, where it otherwise often spreads, and lies, as it were, damm'd up upon the Road, and spoils the Way, but where it rises sometimes by sudden Rains to a dangerous Height; for it is to be observ'd, that there is more Hazard, and more Lives lost, in passing, or attempting to pass, little Brooks and Streams, which are swell'd by sudden Showers of Rain, and where Passengers expect no Stoppage, than in passing great Rivers, where the Danger is known, and therefore more carefully avoided.

In many of these Places the Commissioners have not only built large and substantial Bridges, but have set up Sluices to stop, and open Chanels to carry off the Waters, where they used to swell into the Highway: and I have been told, Years ago, that the several Commissioners, in the respective Districts, where they are concerned, had then built between 300 and 400 new Bridges, where there were none before, or where the former were small, and insufficient to carry the Traveller safe over the Waters. Many of these are within a few Miles of London, especially, for Example, on the great Road from London to Edgeworth, from London to Enfield, from London to St. Albans, from London to Croydon, &c.

Besides the Benefits accruing from this laudable Method, we may add, the Conveniency to those who bring fat Cattle, especially Sheep, to London in the Winter, from the remoter Counties of Leicester and Lincoln, where they are bred: for, before, the Country Graziers were oblig'd to sell their Stocks off in September and October, when the Roads began to be bad, and when they generally sell cheap; and the Butchers and Farmers near London used to engross them, and keep them till December and January, and then sell them, tho' not an Ounce fatter than before, for an advanced Price, to the Citizens of London; whereas now the Roads are in a Way to be made every-where passable, the City will be serv'd with Mutton almost as cheap in the Winter as in the Summer, or the Profit of the Advance will be to the Country Graziers, who are the original Breeders, and take all the Pains.

This is evidenced to a Demonstration in the Counties where the Roads are already repair'd, from whence they bring their fat Cattle, and particularly their Mutton, in Droves, from Sixty, Seventy, or Eighty Miles, without fatiguing, harassing, or sinking the Flesh of the Creatures, even in the Depth of Winter.

I might give Examples of other Branches of Inland Commerce, which are, and still will be further alter'd for the better, by this Repairing the Roads, and particularly that of carrying Cheese; a Species of Provision so considerable, that nothing, except that of live Cattle, can exceed it.

This is chiefly made in the Three North-west Counties of England, viz. Cheshire, Gloucestershire, and Warwickshire, and the Parts adjacent, from whence the Nation used to be very meanly supply'd, by reason of the great Distance of the Country where the Cheese is made, from those where it is chiefly expended.

The Cheshire Men indeed carry great Quantities about by long Sea, as they call it, to London; a terrible long, and sometimes dangerous, Voyage, being thro' the Irish Chanel, round all Wales, cross the Bristol Chanel, round the Land's End of Cornwall, and up the English Chanel to the Mouth of the Thames, and so up to London; or else by Land to Burton upon Trent, and so down that River to Gainsborough and Hull, and so by Sea to London.

Again, the Gloucestershire Men carry all by Land-Carriage to Lechlade and Cricklade on the Thames, and so carry it down the River to London.

But the Warwickshire Men have no Water-Carriage at all, or at least not till they have carry'd it a long Way by Land to Oxford; but as their Quantity is exceeding great, and they supply not only the City of London, but also the Counties of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridge, Huntingdon, Hertford, Bedford, and Northampton, the Gross of their Carriage is by mere dead Draught; and they carry it either to London by Land, which is full 100 Miles, and so the London Cheesemongers supply the said Counties of Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk, besides Kent, and Sussex, and Surrey, by Sea and River Navigation; or the Warwickshire Men carry it by Land once a Year to Sturbridge Fair, whence the Shop-keepers of all the Inland Country above-nam'd come to buy it; in all which Cases Land-Carriage being long, when the Ways were generally bad, it made it very dear to the Poor, who are the chief Consumers.

I could also inlarge here upon the Convenience that accrues to the Trade in fresh Fish, from the Sea Coasts to the Inner Parts of the Kingdom, whither, when the Ways are bad, they cannot carry them sweet. This of course must greatly increase the Consumption of Fish in its Season, and imploy a considerable Number of Horses and Men, as well as increase the Shipping by that Consumption.

By this I do not only mean the carrying of Herrings and Mackerel to London, as is practised on the Coasts of Sussex and Kent in particular, and bringing Salmon from the remote Rivers of Severn and Trent; but the carrying of Herrings, Mackerel, and Sprats in their Season, and Whitings and flat Fish at other times, from the Coasts of Yarmouth, Swole, Ipswich, Colchester, Malden, &c. and supplying all the Inland Counties with them sweet and good, even as far as Northampton and Coventry, &c.

I might give Examples where the Herrings, which are not the best Fish to keep, used, even before these Reparations were set on foot, to be carried to those Towns, and up to Warwick, Birmingham, Tamworth and Stafford; and tho' they frequently stunk before they got thither, yet the People were so eager for them, that they bought them up at a dear Rate; whereas when the Roads are every-where good, they will come in less Time, by at least Two Days 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page duplicate〉 in Six of what they used to do, and 100 times the Quantity will be consum'd.

These, and many others, are the Advantages to our Inland Commerce, which we may have room to hope for upon the general Repair of the Roads, and which I shall have great Occasion to speak of again in my Northern Circuit.

Nor are the laudable Undertakings which have of late Years been set on foot for rendering many of the Inland Rivers of this Kingdom navigable, a less profitable Improvement to the Publick, many of which have been completed, and others are completing, according to Acts of Parliament already passed for that Purpose; many of which I have taken notice of, in the Course of my Letters. And hardly a Session passes, but Bills are still continued to be brought in for making others navigable. All which must greatly tend, with the repairing of the publick Roads, as above, to increase the Trade of this Nation.

But 'tis time to conclude this Letter; which I shall do, with the following Transcription from the famous Milton, which, not unsuitably to the Subject I have just been upon, thus enumerates the principal Rivers of England, with their distinguishing Characters:

Rivers, arise; whether thou be the Son

Of utmost TWEED, or OUSE, or gulphy DUN;

Or TRENT, who, like some earth-born Giant, spreads

His thirty Arms along th' indented Meads;

Or sullen MOLE, that runneth, underneath;

Or SEVERN swift, guilty of Maidens Death;

Or rocky AVON, or of s••…gy LEE.

Or coaly TYNE, or anti••… hallow'd DEE;

Or HUMBER loud that keeps the Scvthians Name;

Or MEDWAY smooth, or Royal-tower'd THAME.

I am, SIR, Your humble S•••ant.

Notes

*
'Tis well known, that this Act was
••
ssed in Compliment to the King's Opinion of Devils and Witch

••

and to the Book he wrote, intitled Demonology.
↵

LETTER V. GIVING A brief Account of the Isles of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sarke.

SIR,

THAT nothing may be wanting to complete this Work, I shall briefly in this Place touch upon the Isles of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney and Sarke, which are the only Remains of the Dukedom of Normandy, now in Possession of the English Crown. And, first, of JERSEY.

Various Names have been affix'd to this Island: in the Time of the Romans it was nam'd Caesarea, probably from the Dictator, who subdued several Nations along this Tract: which Conjecture is confirm'd by the present Name of one of its Forts, which is Le Fort de César. In the North of the Island, at Rosel, is an Intrenchment preserving the Name of La petite Césarée. That the Romans were here, is plain from the Remains of an antient Camp near the Manor of Dilament; as also from Coins which have been found in different Parts of the Island, particularly One of Commodus, and Two of Probus and Posthumus, all in the Parish of St. Oûen. Its modern Appellation is no more than a Corruption of its old one, Jer being a Contraction of Caesar, and Ey signifying Island, q. d. Caesar's Island. Augia was a Name still elder than the Time when the Romans were acquainted with the Place; and supposed to be the original one.

The Island has sustained several Revolutions: first, by Rollo, Duke of Normandy. 2. By the French. 3. By the Normans restored. 4. By the Uniting of it to the Crown of England. The Inhabitants behav'd very valiantly in Defence of Charles I. and his Son Charles II. but were at last reduced by the irresistible Power of the English Parliament, altho' they are supposed to have been the last who submitted to the common Fate of the Times, by a Capitulation equally advantageous and honourable.

We shall now proceed to give as clear an Account of the Situation and remarkable Places of this Island as the Narrowness of our Limits will admit.

Jersey is computed to be 49° 10′ N. L. and 2° 20′ W. L. from the Meridian of London. Its Length is 12 Miles; its utmost Breadth between Six and Seven. Its North-side, from its lofty Cliffs, is 40 or 50 Fathoms perpendicular from the Sea; which renders it inaccessible that way; but the South is much lower, and almost level with the Water. Its Form seems to resemble a Wedge, or a rectangular Triangle.

The higher Lands are diversify'd by gritty and gravelly, stony and rocky, fine and sweet Mould; the lower by heavy, deep and rich Soil. All kinds of Forest and Fruit-trees, Shrubs, Roots, Flowers and Herbs, flourish here, with Pulse and Corn, tho' their Wheat is smaller than English.

The Decay of Tillage (so evident in this Isle) is owing to three Causes: 1. The Increase of the Stocken Manufacture; which naturally inclined the People to slight the more laborious Imployment of Agriculture. 2. The Improvement of Navigation, and Foreign Traffick, which had the same Effect. 3. The Culture of Cyder, by converting the Arable Lands into Orchards for that Purpose; which Commodity is the ordinary Drink of the Inhabitants, who are now over-stock'd with it; so that there is Hope of their returning to the Plough, and to their former Industry. 4. The Increase of Inclosures and Highways; of the latter whereof here are three Sorts; the first call'd Le Chemin du Roy, or The King's High-way, sixteen Feet in Breadth; the second, Le Chemin de huit Pieds, or The Eight-foot way, which with its Sides makes up 12 Feet; and the third, Le Chemin de quatre Pieds, or the Four-foot Way, for Horse-carriages.

On the Rocks about the Island, Sea-weed grows plentifully, which is an Equivalent for the Deficiency of other Things useful in Husbandry, and is the common Manure of the Land in Jersey.

Here is Plenty of good Water from the inexhaustible Stores of Springs gushing from the numerous Strata of Rocks every-where conspicuous. Meat also and Butter are equally good and sweet here, tho' the Cattle are inferior in Size to those elsewhere.

The Ewes of this Isle had four Horns, but the Rams six, in Camden's Time, tho' rarely now to be seen. Fowl of all Kinds are here in great Quantities. But none of the volatile Tribe exceed in Beauty the Jersey Partridge, having the bright Eyes natural to that Bird, red Legs, and variegated Feathers. The Flesh however is not much preferable to that of the common Partridge.

This Island abounds with Fish, the Species of which we may range thus: 1. Rough-coated Fish, such as Rousses, Haus, &c. the coarsest of all. 2. Shell and Rock-fish, among which is the Ormer, supposed peculiar to these Parts, and deriving its Name, which is French, from its Resemblance, to a human Ear. The Inside of the Shell is made use of in inlaid Works, as Mother of Pearl, to the bright Colour of which it approaches. There is no Under-shell; but the Fish adheres to the Rock with its Back, and is a solid Mass of white Pulp, very grateful to the Taste, which it regales like the Flesh of Land Animals. In great Spring Tides, at low-water Mark, it is found. 3. Flat-fish, as Rays, Thornbacks, Soles, Plaise, large Turbots, &c. 4. Scale-fish. Of these, one Draught of Base has equall'd a Cart-load. Besides which here is the Mullet, red and grey, the Vrac, or Sea-carp, and the Bar, an exquisite Fish, sometimes two Feet in Length. Other Fish here are, which for their Singularity we cannot pass by in Silence.

The Gronnard is so call'd from its grunting Noise, when taken. Its Head is almost as big as the Body, and its Colour is a deep Scarlet, resembling Blood.

The Lançon (or little Lance, from its Shape) is never found in the Water, but in some moving Sandbank deserted by the Sea; when the Sand being mov'd with an iron Hook, the Fish spring up, and are caught by Handfuls. The young Men and Maids take great Delight, during the warm Summer Nights, in this Sport; which is render'd easy to them by the Glistering of the Prey above the Sand. This they term aller au Lançon. It is prepar'd as an Anchovy, and, well-dress'd, gives an agreeable Relish.

Another odd Fish is the Sirene, which is furnish'd with Teats like a Woman's.

The ugly, but harmless, and perhaps wholsome Animal the Toad, abounds here, as do innoxious Creatures of the Serpentine Kind, particularly Lizards, which gaze on Passengers, as they lie basking in the Sun. But the worst of the reptile Kind are Moles, which damage the Corn and Grass, though they compensate that Detriment by affording a freer Passage to the Rain thro' their Latibula.

The Climate here is in general wholsome; tho' as Luxury has gain'd Ground, Diseases unknown to former Ages have been its constant Attendants: so that it cannot now boast of that Character given it by Camden, That here was no Room for the Physicians.

The Rocks are vast and terrible, the Tides rapid and strong; as an Evidence of which, here is no Still-water at any time, as in other Parts of the British Chanel.

The whole Island consists of 12 Parishes, which are divided into Vintaines, from the 20 Houses which formerly, as is said, constituted each Parish; tho' now some Parishes vastly exceed that Number. Cueillettes is the Name for these Divisions in the Parish of St. Oûen alone.

But to be more particular: 1. The Parish just mention'd contains six Cueillettes, namely, De Vinchelés, des Millés, de Leoville, des Grontés, Grande Cueillette, and Petite Cueillette. The Seigneur de St. Oûen has a large Pond in the West of the Island, containing about 20 Acres of Land, wherein are Carp of so extraordinary a Size, as scarce to be equalled in Europe; some of them being four Feet four Inches in Length. Part of the great Bay of St. Oûen had been a rich Vale, which was swallow'd up by the Sea.

2. St. Peter contains six Vintaines; which are, Des Angueres, du Coin Varin, du Doet, de St. Nicolas, de la Vallée, and Grande Vintaine.

3. In St. Brelade are four Vintaines; call'd Des Quenves, de la Moye, du Coin, and de Noirmont. In this Parish stands the Town of St. Aubin, the second of the Island; and from it the Bay adjoining derives its Name; which consists of white Sand, level and firm; and thence the Travelling from this Town to St. Helier, the Capital, is render'd smooth and easy. And as the Church is at a Distance, and intercepted by a bleak Hill, the Inhabitants, who are in plentiful Circumstances, were building, when I was there, a convenient Chapel by way of Contribution. The Port, which is the best and most frequented in Jersey, has a strong Pier, carry'd into the Sea, which receives and affords a safe Harbour for Ships. Here a Sixth-rate just floats at a dead Neap, and a Ship of 200 Tons at all times. At Half-flood a Vessel of 130 Tons may find Entrance. Larger Ships indeed, and Men of War, must remain in the Road, where is good Anchorage. The Pier joins to the Fort of St. Aubin, which renders the Place very defensible. These Advantages have brought hither many Merchants and Masters of Ships: and every Monday is held what is improperly call'd a Market; for it is rather an Exchange, where Merchants and others meet for transacting Affairs of Navigation and Traffick. The Houses are mostly new.

4. St. Mary has two Vintaines, Du Nord, and du Sud. In this Parish was discover'd a Spring strongly impregnated with a purging Mineral; the Water of which was approved of by Dr. Charleton, an eminent English Physician.

5. St. Laurence contains four Vintaines; viz. Du Coin Motier, du Coin Tourgis, du Coin és Hastains, and de la Vallée.

6. St. John has three Vintaines; which are Du Nord, du Doet, de Herupe. In this Parish is a Hill call'd Mont-mado, whereon is a rich Quarry of excellent Stone, capable of being cut into regular Squares, like Portland Stone.

7. In Trinity are five Vintaines, namely, De la Ville à l' Evesque, du Rondin, de Rosel, des Augrés, and de la Croizerie.

8. St. Helier comprehends four Vintaines, which are, Du Mont à l' Abbée, du Mont au Prétre, du Mont Cochon, and de la Ville. The Situation of St. Helier is pleasant as well as commodious, having on the South-west the Sea, with a full Prospect of Elizabeth Castle, and of the Road for Ships. To the North are Hills, which are an excellent Defence against the Cold: and at their Feet a Flat of Meadows inliven'd by a pure Stream, which from hence enters the Streets, and even the Houses; so that the Water is easily brought up by Buckets, let down thro' a Trap-door, or from the Reservoirs of Wells and Pumps. Another huge Hill projects, in a manner, over the Town; and being a Common, affords to the Cattle Herbage, and to Gentlemen and Ladies an agreeable Walk, with the Advantage of an extensive Prospect. The usual Name of this Hill is Le Mont de la Ville. The unfortunate Duke of Somerset, Protector of the King and Kingdom, had probably intended to protect himself from the Malice of his Enemies, by building a new Town here, as he did a Citadel at Alderney; both which Designs became abortive by his Death. In St. Helier, at present, are about 400 Houses, disposed into divers wide and well-pav'd Streets. La Cohue Royale, or the Seat of Justice, stands in a large Quadrangle, on each Side of which are handsome Structures. Here is held every Saturday a Market, or rather a Fair, whither People flock from all Parts of the Island to enjoy their Friends, or transact Business. In the Town live few landed Gentlemen, but many Shopkeepers, Artificers, and Retailers of Liquor. Scarce any thing is wanting to the Uses of Necessity or Convenience. La Halle, la Boucherie, or the Shambles, is a large Room inclosed, so that the Sight and Smell of Carcases do not here annoy the Eyes and Nostrils of People, as they do in most Country Towns. The Number of Inhabitants, exclusive of some Hundreds in the Out-Vintaines, who are Parishioners, tho' not Townsmen, is supposed to amount to Two thousand. And the Church, tho' very capacious by the Accession of Galleries, when I was there, was crouded with them.

9. St. Saviour has six Vintaines, of the following Denominations: De Maufant, de sous la Hogue, des Pigneaux, de sous l' Eglise, de le Grande Longueville, and de la Petite Longueville.

10. Under St. Martin are comprehended these five Vintaines: De Rosel, de la Queruée, de sous l' Eglise, du Fief du Roy, and de Faldoit.

11. Gronville comprises four Vintaines, De la Rue, des Marais, de Longueville, and de la Roque.

12. In St. Clement are three Vintaines, by Name, Du Mont Roquier, de Samaréz, and Grand Vintaine. In the Canal call'd Samaréz are great Numbers of Carp and Eel, the only fresh-water Fish in the Island.

The Cueillettes and Vintaines are in all 52. The Buildings are all of Stone, as may well be supposed, in a Country which is nothing but a huge Rock, cover'd with Strata of Earth. The common Sort is Rag-stone. The Stone on Mont-mado, mention'd above, is of a reddish White, the whiter the better, of a fine Grain, and may be wrought almost as sleek as polish'd Marble. The Churches and finest Edifices are cover'd with blue Slate; the ordinary Houses are thatch'd with long Wheat-straw.

The principal Trade is that to Newfoundland, whither, in the Year 1732, were sent 27 Ships, from thence to proceed to the Mediterranean, in order to dispose of their Fish. Another Branch of Trade is that of knit Hose, or Stockens, which are every Saturday sold at St. Helier, to the Merchants; and many thousand Pairs are made weekly in the Island.

The Language, as you may guess from the Names of Places, is French, tho' obsolete, and thence to be esteem'd barbarous. This Remark, however, is not to be extended to their Religious Worship, Judicatures, or even the Conversation of the more polite, in all which the pure French is used. Tho' this is the original Language, yet one may observe a pretty good Smattering of English, even among the lower Class of People, owing to the Intermixture of the Soldiers in the Garison at St. Helier; in the Church of which Town Prayers are alternately in French and English.

The chief Officer, who represents the King's Person, is the Governor. His Excellency, at the Time when I was there, was the Right Honourable the Lord Viscount Cobham.

Harliston Tower was so call'd from Sir Richard Harliston, Governor of the Island in the Time of King Henry VII. who built it in Mont Orgueil Castle. The great Sir Walter Ralegh bore this high Office, to which his Name does Honour.

Mont-Orgueil is of so great Antiquity, that no Record subsists, old enough to determine its Origin. 'Tis at present slighted, and in a ruinous Condition; and what it was formerly, Elizabeth-Castle now is, equal to any Fortress within the British Dominions. It is nam'd Le Château de l' Islet, or simply L' Islet, from its Situation on a small Island. In Circuit it is little less than a Mile. In 1551 all the Bells in Jersey, excepting one to each Church, were sold towards defraying the Expence of the Building. In 1586 the Upper Ward was erected, which is properly Queen Elizabeth's Castle, every House in the Island furnishing four Days Work. The Lower Ward is King Charles I.'s Castle, and was begun in 1626. During the Civil War Charles-Fort was added; and in 1665, the French threatening the Place, the Green was inclosed within a Wall.

The Fort of St. Aubin is of good Use towards clearing the Road, and for a Safe-guard to Ships within the Pier, which it secures by its Cannon planted on the Bastions; tho' in antient Times it was no more than a great Tower on a Rock, thence nam'd La Tour.

There are five Regiments of regular Forces on the Island, which are reviewed every 29th of May, the Anniversary of the Restoration.

The Civil Government is administer'd by a Bailly, assisted by 12 Jurats.

Here are divers Monuments of the Druidical Superstitions, which are flat Rag-stones, of vast Size and Weight, raised three or four Feet from the Ground, and sustain'd by others of less Bulk. These the Natives call Poquelayes; and are the Altars, on which Sacrifices, often human, were immolated, particularly, in the Parish of St. Helier, three of them contiguous to each other; and on the Summit of a Place call'd Le Rouge Bouillon, another; besides one on St. Helier's Hill. Another larger, near Mont-Orgueil Castle; and near Rosel-haven, on a Cliff nam'd Le Couperon, an Antiquity seeming to be a little Temple of theirs. At a Place call'd Les Landes Pallot, in the Parish of St. Saviour, was a Rocking-stone, like that I shall mention in Scotland, destroy'd by the Cromwellians; erected by the Druids, probably to awe the People into a Belief of their Miracles. This also has been demolish'd.

Here are also Monuments of the Popish Superstition; two more particularly: The first call'd La Chapelle de nôtre Dame des Pas, from the Blessed Virgin, who is said to have left the Print of her Steps on the very Spot of the Rock, whereon the Chapel is erected, and this too after her Body was moulder'd into Dust. The second is term'd Hoguebie, a Chapel over a Tomb, built, according to Tradition, by the disconsolate Widow of the Seigneur de Hambie, a Norman, who fell by Treachery in this Island, and whose Loss was so afflicting to his Lady, that she erected it on Purpose to have the melancholy Pleasure of seeing the Place where her Lord's Corps was interr'd, from her Window in Normandy; and to procure his Soul the great Benefit of Masses. Afterwards one Mabon, who had been a Pilgrimage to Jerusalem, took a Fancy to lengthen the Chapel toward the East, and to hollow a Place under the Altar, in order to represent our Lord's Sepulchre. This Place was made the chief Seat of the Popish Delusion.

Notwithstanding the prevailing Terrors of the Papal Empire in the Days of Queen Mary, the Magistrates of Jersey had the Courage to put to Death Richard Averty, a Priest, and furious Prosecutor of the marry'd Clergy, for murdering his Bastard Child, which he effected without the Mother's Knowlege.

The Mace, borne before the Bailly and Magistrates, at the Convention of the States, &c. has this Inscription:

— Tali haud omnes dignatur honore.

CAROLUS Secundus, Magnae Britanniae, Franciae, & Hiberniae Rex serenissimus, affectum regium erga insulam de JERSEY (in qua bis habuit receptum, dum caeteris ditionibus excluderetur) hocce monumento vere regio posteris consecratum voluit: jussitque ut deinceps Balivis praeferatur, in perpetuam memoriam fidei tum augustissimo parenti CAROLO I. tum suae majestati, saevientibus bellis civilibus, servatae a viris clarissimis Philippo & Georgio de Carteret, equitibus auratis, hujus insulae Baliv. & Reg. Praefect. Of which this is the Translation:

— Not all are with such Honour grac'd.

CHARLES the Second, the most serene King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, has resolved, that his Royal Favour towards the Isle of JERSEY, (in which he twice met with a Place of Refuge, while he was excluded from the rest of his Dominions) should be consecrated to Posterity by this truly Royal Monument: And commanded, that thenceforward it should be borne before the Baillies, in perpetual Memory of the Loyalty preserv'd both to his most August Father CHARLES I. and to his Majesty, during the Rage of the Civil Wars, by the most excellent Men Sir Philip and Sir George de Carteret, Knights, Baillies and Chief Governors of this Island.

St. Magloire, the Apostle of Jersey, lies bury'd in a little Chapel near a Free-school, corruptly call'd from him L' Ecole de St. Magloire, and founded, with another nam'd St. Anastase, by King Henry VII. who granted a Charter for that useful Purpose.

This Place gives Title of Earl to the Lord Viscount Villiers, the second who has enjoy'd that Dignity.

II. The next Isle I am to speak of is GUERNSEY, the antient Name of which was Sarnia. From Jersey it is distant 20 Miles to the North-west; yet equals not the former, either in point of Fruitfulness, or Extent of Territory; for it has but 10 Parishes. This Advantage however it enjoys above Jersey, That here no venomous Creatures can subsist. It is also naturally better fortify'd from Invasion, by craggy Rocks and Precipices. On the contrary, its Situation, compar'd with that of Jersey, renders this inferior; for whereas the North of Jersey is much higher than the South, as we have said, the South Side of Guernsey is high, and the North low; which produces a double Obliquity of the Sun and Land; and hence the Difference in the Soil and Air of each. Notwithstanding this they both agree as to their Original, their Productions, and the Civil, Military and Ecclesiastical Government. Among the circumjacent Rocks is found the sharp and hard Stone call'd Smyris, or Emeril, and used by Glaziers for cutting Glass, as well as by Jewellers for polishing their Work.

In Trade it is superior to its Neighbour Jersey, by having a more convenient Port at its Eastern Extremity, adjoining to the South; where the Shore retiring inward in the Form of a Crescent, makes the Place capable of holding large Vessels. The Foundation of its Pier was laid in the Beginning of Edward I.'s Reign by prodigious Stones, heap'd on each other to a considerable Height, and regularly cemented. The Shipping here is not only safe, and may be brought close up to the Town, which we shall presently mention; but the Pier itself is adorn'd with large smooth Flags, and guarded by Parapets; so that being of sufficient Length and Breadth, it is used as the chief Place for Rendezvouses on Parties of Pleasure by the fashionable People of the Town, as well as for its noble Prospect over the Sea, and adjacent Isles.

On the Right-side of the Port stands Cornet-Castle, which at high Tides is surrounded by the Sea. Sir Leonard Chamberlan, who was Governor of Guernsey, in Mary I.'s Time, and his Successor, Sir Thomas Leighton, improved it with Fortifications. In the Year 1672, the Governor Lord Viscount Hatton lost his Lady, and himself escaped with great Difficulty, from a prodigious Storm of Lightning, which, catching the Powder-store, blew up the lofty Tower with the Standard; so that the Castle must have formerly made a much more grand Appearance than at present. However, what it wants in Beauty, it makes up in real Usefulness; for it has the Command of the Town and Harbour; and its Situation alone renders it strong, being divided from the Land by an Arm of the Sea about 600 Yards wide, except in great Spring-tides, when it is fordable.

On the Left-side too is a mean old Castle.

The only Town is call'd St. Peter's, has a free Trade, (which is however render'd ineffectual by Privateering) has a Market, is well stor'd with Implements of War, and consists of one long Street, which is narrow, being confin'd between the Sea and the impending Hills. The Market is always plentifully supply'd with Fish.

To the North, joins a Peninsula nam'd Le Val, where once was a Priory. And

To the West, near the Sea, is a Lake, a Mile and a half in Circumference, stock'd with Fish, especially a kind of Carp of extraordinary Size, and delicious to the Taste.

The Governor of Guernsey was (when I was on the Spot) the late Marquis of Montandre; and his Lieutenant, John Graham, Esq

From hence the Second Son of Heneage, late Earl of Nottingham, and Lord High Chancellor, by Name Heneage Finch, was promoted to the Dignity of a Peer of England, by the Style of Baron of Guernsey.

In Guernsey there are Eight Ministers to its Ten Parishes, Four of them being united.

I cannot take Leave of this Island without a short Recital of a flagrant Instance of Popish Inhumanity, which, not content to roll in Seas of Blood, all over England, extended itself to this remote Corner. The Fact was thus: In the Days of that Firebrand of her Country, Mary I. a poor Widow, and her Two Daughters, one the Wife of Perrotine Massey, a Minister, who had happily escaped the impending Fate by leaving his native Soil, were sentenced to the Stake for what was call'd Heresy. The marry'd Woman's Body, during the Execution, bursting, by the Violence of the Flames, discharg'd the Pledge of her conjugal Affection, a beautiful Male Infant, which was hastily caught up by the Ministers of Justice, and carried before the Magistrates, whose tender Mercies commanded, That it should be thrown in with the Mother, which was accordingly done. Hoc fera religio potuit suadere malorum▪ How far the Practices of this Sect may have been changed by the Illumination of Truth, instead of Faggots, notwithstanding their obstinate Perseverance in their former Principles, I will not pretend to determine: but sure I am, That from bad Principles to bad Practices the Transition is extremely easy; and Experience has more than once, especially within the British Dominions, testify'd the Truth of this Observation. I now proceed to mention (tho' very briefly) an Isle dependent on the Government of Guernsey. This is,

III. ALDERNEY, supposed by Camden, to be the Arica of Antoninus; by others the Ebodia or Evodia of P. Diaconus. It is situated about a League and a half from Cape la Hogue in Normandy; is in Circumference about Eight Miles; and contains One Church with a Town, in which are about 200 Houses, which lodge to the Number of 1000 Inhabitants. The Soil is good for Pasture or Arable. And I was shewn one Field here of about 500 Acres, which, as I was told, had not once lain fallow for 100 Years before. Their Manure is Sea-weed, call'd Vraic, of which we have taken notice above. The Land lies high; and to the South is a Harbour, admitting only small Vessels.

The Streight which divides this Isle from France, term'd Le Ras de Blanchart, or The Race of Alderney, is esteem'd a dangerous Passage in stormy Weather, when the Winds happen to encounter with the strong Currents. In calm Seasons it is very safe, and the largest Ships may ride here with Ease. Nay, in 1692-3, Part of the French Fleet escap'd this Way, after the Blow they had met with at la Hogue. The last Place I shall mention in this Letter, is the Isle of,

IV. SARKE, which, as well as Alderney, is dependent on the Government of Guernsey. It is no more than Two Miles in Length, and is situated in the midst of all the others, and guarded with steep Rocks. Its Corn is excellent, the Land very high, which, together with its Situation, renders it one of the strongest Places in the World. Its Water is very good. Formerly here was no Way for Draughts and Carriages from the Sea, till Philip de Carteret, Seigneur ae St. Oúen, (who had a Grant of the Island from Queen Elizabeth, and in whose Descendants the Property is vested) caused one to be cut thro' the impending Cliff, which for some Space is carry'd on in subterranean Darkness, till it emerges within the Island, and is fortify'd with Cannon, and by a Gate. In the Reign of Edward III. was standing the Convent of St. Magloire, with a Pension from the Exchequer, where that holy Person is said to have resided.

The Island fell into the Hands of the French, but in the Reign of Queen Mary I. was recover'd; and the Inhabitants have ever since enjoy'd the mild Influence of the British Government, equally approving of their present happy Condition, and detesting the Fetters of French Slavery. Their Number amounts to about 300; and one Minister performs their divine Offices. Thus, having completed what I promised, I rest from my TOUR, and am,

SIR,
Your most humble Servant.

APPENDIX.

WE have purposely reserv'd the Account of several material Things and Places to the Conclusion of this Volume, for the Sake of being more perfect in the Description of them, than we had Opportunity to be at the Time of printing the several Letters. And we shall now insert the following Articles under this Title; but which, however, may be incorporated in their proper Places, in future Editions of this Work.

We shall begin with a brief Description of the famous Gardens of the Right Hon. the Lord Viscount Cobham, at Stow in Buckinghamshire.

VOL. II. p. 105.

WE enter'd on the South-side of the Garden, between Two square Pavilions of the Dorick Order, the Work of Sir John Vanbrugh; and were struck with the surprising Grandeur and Variety of the Objects that presented themselves to our View, of which I shall give a brief Account in Order, as we passed them.

First, then, in the Middle of a large Octagon Piece of Water, stands an Obelisk of near 70 Feet, which is design'd for a Jet-d' Eau to cascade from the Top of it. At a good Distance we beheld Two beautiful Rivers, which join, and enter the Octagon in One Stream. Over One of the Rivers is a Palladian Bridge, which is an agreeable Object. A Gothick Building, 70 Feet high, presents itself on the Summit of a fine Hill; which, we were told, is intended to be dedicated to Liberty.

Here we had likewise a View of the South Front of the House, up an Avenue of stately Trees; but great Objections have been made to the Narrowness of it, which is, no doubt, an essential Fault. However, since every Tree may be deem'd a sort of Obelisk to the Honour of the noble Planter, it makes a good Excuse for their standing; and the rather, as, if they were taken away, it would create an Evil, which could not be remedied in 40 Years.

As the Gothick Building is on the Right-hand, so on the Lest appears an Egyptian Pyramid, dedicated to the Memory of Sir John Vanbrugh.

In short, here is such a Scene of Magnificence and Nature display'd, the Fields abounding with Cattle, the Trees and Water so delightfully intermingled, and such a charming Verdure, Symmetry, and Proportion, every-where presenting to the Eye, that the Judgment is agreeably puzzled, which singly to prefer of so many collected Beauties.

Leaving this Point, and on the Left-hand passing by Three Statues, we came to the Cold-bath, from whence we beheld a natural Cascade falling down from the before-mentioned Octagon, in Three different Sheets of Water, into a large Lake. One of the Sheets glides thro' an Arch, or Piece of Ruin, which is mostly hid by a Clump of Ever-greens; but his Lordship, as we are told, designs to make a good deal of Amendment to it, tho' at present it has a very natural and agreeable Appearance.

From hence we proceeded to the Hermitage, which is agreeably situated in a rising Wood, and by the Side of the Lake; and passing thro' the Wood, we came to the Statues of Cain and Abel, fronting the Veneris Hortus, a very neat Structure, designed by Mr. Kent, the Inside of it painted by Mr. Sleats; and on the Frize is the following Motto, alluding to the Painting in the Cave:

Nunc amet, qui nondum amavit;

Quique amavit, nunc amet.

Which is,

He who ne'er lov'd, a Lover grow;

And he who has — continue so.

Here is likewise a Sophia. Each Way, from the Entrance of the Room, is a handsome Colonnade, leading to square Tabernacles or Pavilions. Here are also Four venerable antique Bustoes, of Vespasian, Nero, Cleopatra, and Faustina.

Hence to the Head of the Lake we had a pleasant View of the Cascade; and from hence to Gibbs's Building, or the Belvidere, which is placed on the Top of the Mount, is a noble Prospect of the House, the Church, the Effigies of his present Majesty, and the late Queen; the Rotonda; the Castle, which a Farmer now inhabits, and was built for that Purpose; but on account of its being seated on the Side of a fine rising Hill, makes a beautiful Appearance as well from hence, as from many other Places.

In the Garden is likewise the Temple of Friendship, from which the Pavilion at the Entrance, the Cascade, the Lake, one of the Fields that is inclosed in the Garden, all together afford a Scene truly charming.

From hence to Boycoat Buildings, passing thro' a pleasant Wood with several agreeable Prospects into the Country, we saw on our Right-hand a noble Terrace. One of the Buildings is a very good habitable House; the other stands on a square Bottom in the Garden; and in the Inside of it are Four Statues, at full Length, in Niches; viz. Cicero, Faustina, Marcus Aurelius, and Livia. The Buildings are both finish'd with pyramidical Tops, by Gibbs. Betwixt them is a very handsome Gate-way, which is the second Entrance to the House, from which leads up a noble Avenue, planted with double Lines of thriving Trees.

From hence to the Egyptian Pyramid mentioned before, which is 60 Feet high, and about half Way up, is this Inscription in very large Characters: ‘Inter plurima hortorum horum aedificia a JOHANNE VANBRUGH, equite, designata, hanc pyramidem illius memoriae sacram esse voluit COBHAM.’ In English thus: ‘Among a very great Number of Structures in these Gardens, designed by Sir JOHN VANBRUGH, Knight, COBHAM thought fit, that this Pyramid should be sacred to his Memory.’

And in the Inside of the Building is the following Inscription:

Lusisti satis, edisti satis, atque bibisti:

Tempus abire tibi est; ne potum largius aequo

Rideat & pulset lasciva decentius aetas.

Which may be thus translated:

Enough you've sported, quaff'd the Bowl, and eat:

'Tis Time that from the Banquet you retreat;

Lest Youth, more fitly frolicksome, may join

To push you, reeling under Loads of Wine.

From hence going along a sort of Fortification Walk on our Left-hand, the Wood on the other Hand, we enter'd the Field, which is inclosed in a military Way, with a staked Fence. At the first Angle, on the middle of the Gravel-walk, are the Statues of Hercules and Antëus. Hence we proceeded to St. Augustine's Cave, which is a Building of Roots of Trees and Moss; and in it a Straw Couch with Three Inscriptions in Monkish Latin Verse. It is placed in a natural Wood, and from the Oddness of the Fabrick, and the agreeable Simplicity which is round it, makes a very entertaining Variety.

Leaving this Place, we approached a Building of a very different Nature — the Temple of Bacchus, built of Brick, with Paintings in the Inside alluding to the Name. Here we had a fine distant Prospect toward Aylesbury and Wendover Hills, &c. In the Garden we had in full View the Temple of Venus: and between the Two is an Obelisk erected to the Memory of a Clergyman, with this Inscription: ‘ To the Memory of ROBIN COUCHER.’

We proceeded from hence to the Saxon Temple, which is a solemn Grove with the Seven Saxon Deities presiding over the several Days of the Week, placed in Niches; and in the Middle of them stands an Altar, as for Sacrifice. All the Statues are extremely good, and this Scene agreeably strikes the Mind with Serenity and Composure.

Our Eye, after being confined in the Wood, breaking at once out of it, we were surprised with a fine open Country on the North: on the South, the Rotonda appears: on the West, the Boycoat Buildings: on the East, the Equestrian Statue of the late King, which stands in the Front of the House. These Objects present themselves from Nelson's Seat, which is an oblong square Recess in a Clump of Ever-greens. To the South-east is a View of the Mansion-house, which is an extraordinary good one; but, his Lordship annually adding to and improving it, one may safely say, that it will not be much inferior to the best House in England, if his Lordship's Design be finished.

The Offices on the North-side are all inclosed within a most elegant Wall, with Niches, and grand Gate-ways into the Offices and Gardens. The House and Offices, when perfected, will be about 640 Feet in Length, fronting North and South. As Nelson's Seat lies to the North-west from the Portico of the House, there is on the North-east a new Bastion building to answer it; and some grand Walks are now making by the Side of a fine Lawn, from which we see numerous Herds of Deer. A Semicircle of fine Timber appears at some Miles Distance with an agreeable Country between.

On the South Front of the House is a very handsome Parterre, decorated with Apollo and the Muses, gilt Vessels, and Two Orangeries: but it is likely this will be intirely altered; for if the lower End is laid open, there will appear a noble Scene, where Nature and Art are curiously blended.

The next Object of our View was a Corinthian Column, on which is the Statue of his present Majesty, with this Inscription: ‘GEORGIO AVGVSTO.’

Here we had a most delightful Prospect over the Country; and in the Garden several of the Buildings present themselves with great Pomp. The Lake, whose Bounds are beautifully concealed, adds much to the general Agreeableness of the Place.

Dido's Cave was the next Subject of our Attention: this is a Stone Building, in a Wood, and raised on a sort of Amphitheatre, with this Inscription:

Speluncam Dido, dux & Trojanus, eandem

Deveniunt —.

In English thus:

Repairing to the same dark Cave are seen,

The Trojan Hero, and the Tyrian Queen.

From hence we advanced to the Rotonda, which is a neat airy Building by Sir John Vanbrugh. The Dome of it supported on Ten Dorick Columns; and in the Centre, standing on a circular Pedestal, a Venus à Medicis. From this Place we had a View of Part of the Octagon; the Lake, the Fields, and several of the Buildings, presenting themselves alternately as we turned ourselves round.

As we went from hence to the late Queen's Statue, by the Side of a Canal, we were delighted with an Alteration of his Lordship's; viz. On each Side the Ground is broken, and planted with Clumps of various kinds of Trees, intermixt with Statues, which are promiscuously placed. Her late Majesty's Effigies is erected on Four Ionick Columns, which are placed on a large Pedestal, with this Inscription in Golden Letters: ‘Honori, Laudi, Virtuti Divae CAROLINAE.’ ‘To the Honour, Praise, and Virtue of the Divine CAROLINE.’

It is situated on a neat Amphitheatre of Slopes, with pastoral Figures each Way from it. Nature and Art here, joining together, make an agreeable Contraste.

Next we were led into the Sleeping Parlour, which is a square Building placed in a Wood with Six Walks centring in it. Within, are painted the Caesars Heads, with several Festons of Fruit, &c. On the Frize is this Inscription: ‘Cum omnia sint in incerto, save tibi.’ Which is, ‘Since all Things are uncertain, indulge thyself.’

Leaving this Place, and crossing the Avenue before-mentioned, from the Pavilions we came to the Witch-house, a square Building, the Inside of which is painted by my Lord's Gentleman, with several Devices alluding to the Name.

We arrived next at the Temple of Antient Virtue, a Rotonda of the Dorick Order, by Mr. Kent: and in Four Niches, standing at full Lengths, are the Four following Statues; viz.

I. EPAMINONDAS, with this Inscription over his Head: ‘Cujus a virtute, prudentia, verecundia,
Thebanorum respublica
Libertatem simul & imperium,
Disciplinam bellicam, civilem & domesticam,
Accepit;
Eoque amisso, perdidit.’ That is, ‘From whose Valour, Prudence, and Moderation, the Republick of Thebes received both Liberty and Empire, its military, civil, and domestick Discipline; and, with him, lost them.’

II. LYCURGUS, with this: ‘Qui summo cum consilio inventis legibus,
Omnemque contra corruptelam munitis optime,
Pater patriae,
Libertatem firmissimam,
Et mores sanctissimos,
Expulsa cum divitiis avaritia, luxuria, libidine,
In multa secula
Civibus suis instituit.’ Thus translated: ‘Who having invented Laws with the greatest Wisdom, and most excellently fenced them against all Corruption, as a Father of his Country, instituted for his Countrymen the firmest Liberty, and the soundest Morality, which endured for many Ages, he having, together with Riches, banished Avarice, Luxury, and Lust.’

III. SOCRATES, ‘Qui corruptissima in civitate innocens,
Bonorum hortator, unici cultor DEI,
Ab inutili otio, & vanis disputationibus,
Ad officia vitae, & societatis commoda,
Philosophiam avocavit,
Hominum sapientissimus.’ That is, ‘Who being innocent in a most corrupt State, an Encourager of the Good, a Worshipper of One only GOD, as the wisest of Men, reduced Philosophy from useless Indolence, and vain Disputations, to the Duties of Life, and the Advantages of Society.’

IV. HOMERUS, ‘Qui poetarum princeps, idem & maximus,
Virtutis praeco, & immortalitatis largitor,
Divino carmine,
Ad pulcre audendum, & patiendum fortiter,
Omnibus notus gentibus, omnes incitat.’ Thus rendered: ‘Who being the First of Poets, as he was the greatest, the Herald of Virtue, and Bestower of Immortality, known to all Nations, incites all, in a Divine Poem, honourably to dare, and resolutely to suffer.’

Over one Door is this Inscription: ‘Charum esse civem, bene de republica mereri, laudari, coli, diligi, gloriosum est: metui vero, & in odio esse, invidiosum, detestabile, imbecillum, caducum.’ Which is: ‘To be dear to our Country, to deserve well of the State, to be praised, honoured, and beloved, is glorious: but to be dreaded, and hated, is matter of Ill-will, detestable, weak, ruinous.’

Over the other Door this: ‘Justitiam cole & pietatem, quae cum sit magna in parentibus & propinquis, tum in patria maxima est. Ea vita via est in coelum, & in hunc coetum eorum, qui jam vixerunt.’ In English thus: ‘Maintain Justice, and thy relative Duty; which, as it is great, when exercised toward our Parents and Kindred, so is greatest toward our Country. That Life is the Way to Heaven, and to this Assembly of those, who have already lived.’

From this Place we had no distant Prospect, but, notwithstanding that, it abounds with lasting Beauties: it is really placed in a sort of Paradise; and, Things rising adequate to that Name, you see Friendship flourishing in immortal Youth; in the Elysian Fields are many great and virtuous Mens Names perpetuated, who have distinguished themselves in this World by answering the End of their Creation. Near this Place also is a good Emblem of those who have deviated from it, in the Ruin. Here are sweet purling Streams, resembling the melodious Sounds of Birds, &c.

We were now not far from the Parish Church, which is so closely surrounded with a Wood, as not to be seen. From hence we came to the Side of a River, where

Unpolish'd Nature cannot boast a Part;

For Chance too regular, too rude for Art.

And by its winding Banks we were led up to a Grotto, which is to be decorated with Shells, Pebbles, and Minerals. Here is likewise a Shell-pavilion, the Dome of which is supported by Six wreathed Columns. The Inside of it hath several Marks performed from Shells, and divers other Imbellishments. On the opposite Side is to be another of Pebbles.

Hence we proceeded to the Three-arch'd Building, which is a pleasant Recess, by the Banks of the River; and in passing we saw Antient Virtue peeping on the South-side of us. The Church we had in full View on the West. To the East is situated the Chinese House, a Building in the Pond, the Out-side of it painted very ingeniously, in the Chinese Taste, by the celebrated Mr. Sleats. The Inside of it is Indian Japan.

The Shell Bridge led us from hence into the Elysian Fields, the most charming Place that ever Eyes beheld. It may not be improper here to give the following Lines, which were left by an unknown Gentleman, on his Entrance into them: ‘’

We are now come to the Monuments of British Worthies; the First of which is Mr. POPE, with no Inscription.

The next is Sir THOMAS GRESHAM, with this Inscription: ‘ Who, by the honourable Profession of Merchant, having enriched himself, and his Country; for carrying on the Commerce of the World, built the ROYAL EXCHANGE.’

INIGO JONES, ‘Who, to adorn his Country, introduced and rivalled the Greek and Roman Architecture.’

JOHN MILTON, ‘Whose sublime and unbounded Genius equalled a Subject that carried him beyond the Limits of this World.’

WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE, ‘Whose excellent Genius opened to him the whole Heart of Man, all the Stores of Nature; and gave him Power, beyond all other Writers, to move, astonish, and delight Mankind.’

Sir ISAAC NEWTON, ‘Whom the GOD of Nature made to comprehend all his Works; and from simple Principles to discover the Laws never known, and to explain the Appearances never understood, of this stupendous Universe.’

Sir FRANCIS BACON, Lord VERULAM, ‘Who, by the Strength of a superior Genius, rejecting vain Speculation, and fallacious Theory, taught to pursue and improve Philosophy by the certain Method of Experiment.’

In the Niche of a Pyramid is placed a Mercury, with these Words subscribed:

— CAMPOS DUCIT AD ELYSIOS.

— Leads to th' Elysian Fields.

And below this Figure is fix'd a Square of black Marble, with the following Lines:

Hic manus ob patriam pugnando vulnera passi,

Quique pii vates, & Phoebo digna locuti,

Inventas aut qui vitam excoluere per artes,

Quique sui memores alios fecere merendo.

Thus translated:

Here are the Bands, who for their Country bled;

And Bards whose pure and sacred Verse is read:

Those who, by Arts invented, Life improv'd;

And by their Merits made their Mem'ries lov'd.

King ALFRED, ‘The mildest, justest, most beneficent of Kings, who drove out the Danes, secured the Seas, supported Learning, established Juries, crush'd Corruption, guarded Liberty, and was the Founder of the English Constitution.’

EDWARD Prince of Wales, ‘The Terror of Europe, and Delight of England; who preserved unaltered, in the Height of Glory, his natural Gentleness and Modesty.’

Queen ELIZABETH, ‘Who confounded the Projects, and destroyed the Designs of Spain, who threatened to oppress the Liberty of Europe; took off the Yoke of Ecclesiastical Tyranny; restored Religion from the Corruptions of Popery; and by a wise, a moderate, and a popular Government, gave Wealth, Health, Security to England. ’

King WILLIAM the Third, ‘Who by his Virtue and Constancy having saved his Country from a foreign Master, by a bold and generous Enterprize, preserved the Liberty and Religion of Great Britain. ’

Sir WALTER RALEGH, ‘A valiant Soldier, and an able Statesman; who, endeavouring to rouse the Spirit of his Master, for the Honour of his Country, against the Ambition of Spain, fell a Sacrifice to that Court, whose Arms he had vanquished, and whose Designs he had opposed.’

Sir FRANCIS DRAKE, ‘Who, thro' many Perils, was the First of Britons, that adventured to sail round the Globe, and carry into unknown Seas the Knowlege and Glory of the English Name.’

JOHN HAMPDEN, ‘Who with great Spirit and consummate Ability, began a noble Opposition to an arbitrary Court, in Defence of the Liberties of his Country; supported them in Parliament, and died for them in the Field.’

Sir JOHN BARNARD, With no Inscription.

Leaving this incomparably sweet Place with great Regret, as every one who sees it, must, we came to a Monument, with this Inscription:

Signor FIDO, ‘An Italian of good Extraction, who came into England, not to bite us, like most of his Countrymen, but to gain an honourable Livelihood: he hunted not after Fame; yet acquired it: regardless of the Praise of his Friends, but most sensible of their Love. Tho' he lived amongst the Great, he neither learnt nor flattered any Vice. He was no Bigot, nor doubted he of any of the XXXIX. Articles: and if to follow Nature, and respect the Laws of Society, be Philosophy, he was a perfect Philosopher; a faithful Friend, and an agreeable Companion, a loving Husband, and distinguished by a numerous Off-spring, all which he lived to see take good Courses; and in his Old-age retired to the House of a Clergyman in the Country, where he finished his earthly Race, and died an Honour and Example to the whole Species. Reader, this Stone is guiltless of Flattery; for he, to whom it was inscribed, was not a Man, but a —’

Crossing the Field to the Gothick Building before described, we had a boundless Prospect round the Building. From hence we descended a fine Hill; and on our Left-hand saw a Plantation of Evergreens; on our Right the Well designed, and Rivers described from the Pavilion. This Walk led us down to a very handsome Bridge over one of the Rivers. The Roof on the Side facing the Water is supported by Ionick Columns; the Back-side of it by an Alto-Relievo of the Four Quarters of the World, bringing their Products to Britannia. Here are likewise painted by Mr. Sleats, Sir Walter Ralegh, with a Map of Virginia in his Hand; and Sir William Penn, holding a Book styled The Laws of Pensylvania. Here are, besides, a great many modern and antique Bustoes of Marble.

We now visited the Imperial Closet, which is a Room very near the Form of a Cube; and in it are the three following Figures, painted at full Length by Mr. Sleats:

- IMP. TITUS CAES. VESPASIAN. With his Saying over his Head, Diem perdidi, I have lost a Day.

- IMP. TRAJAN. CAES. With his Saying, Pro me: si merear, in me. For me: but if I deserve it, against me.

- IMP. MARCUS AURELIUS CAESAR ANTONINUS, With his Saying, Ita regas imperator, ut privatus regi velis. So govern when an Emperor, as, if a private Person, you would desire to be governed.

Passing a noble Iron Gate, at the End of a fine Terrace, of 1990 Feet in Length, and Breadth proportionable, which leads to the Veneris Hortus, we came to the Temple of Friendship, a lofty square Building, of the Dorick Order, with Three noble Porticoes on the Sides, which appear to the Garden. The Cave and Ceiling are painted with History-pieces, by Mr. Sleats. At the Bottom of the Room are placed Ten Pedestals, which are designed for the Bustoes of his Lordship, and Nine of his select Friends. Those of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Cobham, and Mr. William Pitt, are already erected; but who the other are to be, is not yet known.

The Pebble Alcove is a neat Recess, and very artfully imbellished with Pebbles. His Lordship's Arms are performed with the same, and display'd in proper Colours.

Congreve's Monument is an Urn, which with great Art expresses the Genius of the Man; and at the Top of it is placed a Monkey, beholding himself in a Mirror, and under him this Writing: ‘ Vitae imitatio,
Consuetudinis speculum,
Comoedia. ’ That is, ‘ Comedy is the Imitation of Life, and the Glass of Fashion. ’

The Poet's Effigies, lying in a careless Posture, has the following Inscription: ‘ Ingenio
Aeri, faceto, expolito,
Moribusque
Urbanis, candidis, facillimis,
GULIELMI CONGREVE,
Hoc
Qualecunque desiderii sui
Solamen simul &
Monumentum
Posuit COBHAM.
M.DCC.XXXVI.’ Thus translated: ‘ In the Year 1736. COBHAM erected this poor Consolation for, as well as Monument of, his Loss of the piercing, elegant, polished Wit, and civilized, candid, most unaffected Manners, of WILLIAM CONGREVE.’

We were now very near the Pavilions, and in going to them, walked by the Side of the River and Octagon, passing, on our Left-hand, Three Satyrs, and a Dancing Venus.

I have now gone round, giving you a faint Description of an unparalleled Chain of artificial and natural Beauty: and, to make use of Mr. Pope's Lines,

Here Order in Variety you see,

Where all things differ, yet where all agree.

His Lordship's Judgment, and refin'd Taste, are not less conspicuous in his Woods and Park.

Vol. II. p. 161.

Instead of what is there said, of the Earl of Burlington's Seat at Chiswick, insert the following.

BUT I must not pass over so slightly the noble Seat of the Right Honourable the Earl of Burlington; which was a plain, useful House, with a Number of good Offices about it: but as a Part of the old House was destroyed some Years ago, by Fire, his Lordship erected a most beautiful Villa, near to the old House; which for Elegance of Taste surpasses every thing of its kind in England, if not in Europe. The Court in Front of the House is of a proportionable Size to the Building, which is gravelled, and kept always very neat. On each Side are Yew Hedges, in Panels, with Termini, placed at proper Distance; in Front of which are planted two Rows of Cedars of Libanus, which at present have a fine Effect to the Eye, at a small Distance from the House; for the dark Shade of these solemn ever-green Trees occasions a fine Contraste with the elegant white Building which appears between them.

The Ascent to the House is by a noble Flight of Stone Steps, on one Side of which is the Statue of Inigo Jones, and on the other that of Palladio. The Portico is supported by fine fluted Pillars of the Corinthian Order, and the Cornice, Frize, and Architrave are as rich as possible; so that the Front of this Building strikes every Person (tho' not a nice Judge of Architecture) with uncommon Pleasure.

The other Front towards the Garden is plainer, but yet is very bold and grand, having a pleasing Simplicity, as hath also the Side-Front, toward the Serpentine River, which is different from the other Two.

The Inside of the House is finished in the highest Taste, the Ceilings being richly gilt and painted; and the Rooms are filled with some of the best Pictures in Europe; and tho' the House is small, yet it would take up more Room than can be allowed here, to describe the particular Beauties of it.

The Gardens are also laid out in an elegant Taste. When you descend from the House, you enter on a Lawn of Grass, planted with Clumps of ever-green Trees, between which are two Rows of large Stone Vases. At the Ends next the House are two fine Wolves in Stone, cut by Mr. Sceidmaker the famous Statuary: and at the farther End are two large Lions; and to terminate this View are three fine antique Statues, which were dug up in Adrian's Garden at Rome, with Stone Seats between each; and on the Back of the Statues is a close Plantation of Ever-greens, which terminates the Prospect.

On the Right-hand, as you go from the House, you look thro' an open Grove of Forest-trees, to the Orangery; which is separated from the Lawn by a Faussee, to secure the Orange-trees from being injured by Persons who are admitted to walk in the Garden; so that they are seen as perfectly, and when the Orange-trees are in Flower, the Scent is diffused over the whole Lawn to the House, as if the Trees were placed on the Lawn.

On the Left-hand you have an easy Slope of Grass down to the Serpentine River, on the Side of which are Clumps of Ever-greens, which make agreeable Breaks to the Eye, between which the Water is seen; and at the farther End is a Peep into an Inclosure, where are an Obelisk and a Roman Temple, with Grass Slopes, and a circular Piece of Water in the Middle.

From this Lawn you are led to the Wilderness, through which are three strait Avenues, terminated by three different Buildings; and within the Quarters are Serpentine Walks, thro' which you may walk near a Mile in constant Shade.

On each Side the Serpentine River is a Grass Walk, which follow the Turns of the River; and on the Right-hand of the River is a Building, which is the exact Model of the Portico of Covent Garden Church; and on the Left is a Wilderness, which is laid out in regular Walks, with clipp'd Hedges on each Side, which is too mean for the other Parts of the Garden; and it is much to be wondered his Lordship should suffer them to remain in the present Form.

Over the River, in the middle Part, is a Palladian Bridge of Wood, which his Lordship crosses in his Coach to come round to the House; for there is a Coach Road thro' the Garden, by which his Lordship passes when he comes from London, so that the Earl seldom goes thro' the Town of Chiswick to his House.

At the End of the River, next the Road, is a fine Cascade lately erected, which by an Engine to raise the Water, his Lordship proposed to have a constant Fall into the River; but the Engine failing, it is but seldom the Cascade can play, and then but for a short time.

Next the Road his Lordship has raised a Terrace, (with the Earth which came out of the River) from whence you have a Prospect of the adjacent Country; and when the Tide is up, you see the Water of the Thames, with the Boats and Barges passing, which greatly enlivens the Prospect. In a Word, there is more Variety in this Garden, than can be found in any other of the same Size in England, or perhaps in Europe.

To the preceding Account of the Lord Burlington's Seat at Chiswick, I shall subjoin the following Description of Gunnersbury-House.

IT is situated near Ealing, between the two great Western Roads, and stands on an Eminence, the Ground falling gradually from it to the Brentford Road; so that from the Portico in the Back-front of the House, you have an exceeding fine Prospect of the County of Surrey, the River of Thames, and all the Meadows on the Borders for some Miles, as also a good Prospect of London, in clear Weather. This House was built by Mr. Web, who was Son-in-law to the famous Inigo Jones; and indeed the Architecture shews it was contrived by him, or at least by a Scholar of his; for altho' the Building is as plain on the Outside as possible, yet there is a simple Boldness in it, which graces all the Buildings of Inigo Jones, rarely to be found in the Works of other Architects. The Apartments in the House are extremely convenient, and well contrived. The Hall is very large, having Rows of Columns on each Side. From thence you ascend by a noble Flight of Stairs, to a Salon, which is a double Cube of Twentyfive Feet. This Room the present Possessor Henry Furness, Esq is fitting up in a most elegant Taste, and he is possessed of a fine Collection of capital Pictures: so he proposes to hang this Room intirely with them; which, when finished, will render it one of the finest Rooms in England.

From this Room is the Entrance to the Portico on the Back-front of the House, which is supported by Columns, and is a delightful Place to sit in, in the Afternoon, during the Summer Season; for as it faces the South-east, so the Sun is gone from it by two o' the Clock, and shining on the Country, which is open to the View, renders the Prospect very delightful.

Upon going out of the House into the Garden, you come upon a noble Terrace, the whole Width of the Garden, from whence you have a fine Prospect of the neighbouring Country, and on which you may walk dry after the greatest Rains; from this Terrace you descend to the Garden by a noble Flight of Stone Steps, the upper Part of which is concave, and the lower convex, with a noble Stone Balustrade on each Side, as also upon the Coping of the Wall, the Length of the House, which makes a fine Appearance from the Road; but the Gardens are laid out too plain, having the Walls in View on every Side; and at present the Offices are too mean for the House, which I hear the present Possessor intends to alter, in a most elegant Taste, which will render it the finest Seat near London.

Vol. I. p. 233.

AT Peckham is the Seat of the late Lord Trevor, which was built in the Reign of King James II. by Sir Thomas Bond, who was deeply engaged with that unfortunate Prince in his Schemes, and was obliged to quit the Kingdom with him; so the House was plundered by the Populace, and became a Forfeit to the Crown. In the Building and the Gardens, large Sums of Money were expended; for the Whole was executed according to the politest Taste of those Times. The Front of the House stands to the North, having Two Rows of large Elm-trees of a considerable Length before it, thro' which the Tower of London appears as a Termination to the Prospect; but on each Side of this Avenue you have a View of London, from Westminster to Greenwich; and at high Water the Masts of the Vessels on the River of Thames appear over the Trees and Houses like a Wood, which greatly improves the Prospect. The Fields in Front, and on each Side of the House, being well cultivated, render them very agreeable; and the Town of Peckham lies on the Backside of the Gardens, but is shut out from the View by Plantations. The Wilderness indeed was planted too regular, having diagonal Walks intersecting each other, with Hedges on each Side; but this was the Taste which prevailed, when those Gardens were laid out. The Kitchen-garden and the Walls were planted with the choicest Fruit-trees from France, and an experienced Fruit-gardener was sent for from Paris, to have the Management of them; so that the Collection of Fruits in this Garden has been accounted one of the best in England.

A private Gentleman purchased this Seat soon after the Death of the late Lord Trevor, and had begun to make very great Alterations, particularly in cutting down Hedges, removing Walls and Buildings, which intercepted the Prospect of the neighbouring Fields; and had the Gentleman lived a few Years longer, he would have intirely altered it to the modern Taste of Gardening, and rendred it a sweet Retirement, considering its Vicinity to London.

Vol. I. p. 317.

after Line 6. add, as follows:

IN the Year 1740, on the Promotion of Dr. Gilbert, Dean of this Church, to the Bishoprick of Llandaff, his Majesty was pleas'd to confer the Deanry on Dr. Alured Clarke, who was installed in the Month of January, in that Year; and if we may be allowed to judge from the pious Acts he began with in that Station, a more worthy Man could not have been preferr'd thereto.

The House, an antient Building, belonging to that Dignity, had, thro' the Remissness of its former Possessors, been too long neglected; wherefore his First Work was to set about altering and repairing that, which he did within Nine Months of his Installment, at an Expence of about 800l.

Before this was perfected, viz. in the Spring 1741, he drew up and published Proposals for founding an Hospital in this City, for Lodging, Dieting, and Curing the Sick and Lame Poor thereof, and of the County of Devon, on the like Plan of that which he had before founded at Winchester, for the Benefit of that City, and County of Hants. A Design so good, recommended by the pious Eloquence of a Divine so learned and judicious, on Views so visibly disinterested, and so clearly abstracted from all Party Schemes or Intentions, met with the general Applause and Assistance of the Gentry and Clergy of all Parties, Sects and Denominations; who, however different in Religion and Politicks, unanimously join'd in this pious Undertaking: and a Subscription being opened in March, hath already (November 1741) brought in about 2000l. of which near 1500l. are annual Engagements, which 'tis highly probable will be not only continued, but much augmented, so that 'tis hoped, that 200 Patients at a time may be provided for. John Tuckfield, of Raddon, Esq was pleased to accommodate the Governors with a Plot of Ground near Southernhay, without the City-walls, at a very moderate Price, and to give 100l. towards carrying on the Building for the intended Hospital, the Plan of which was commodiously designed by the Direction of the Dean, and the First Stone thereof laid by him, assisted by the Bishop of Exon, Sir William Courtenay, Knight of the Shire, Sir Henry Northcote, and Humphry Sydenham, Esq the Citizens in Parliament, the Honourable Henry Rolle, and John Tuckfield, Esq attended by a great Number of Clergy and Gentry, that are Subscribers, and Thousands of joyful Spectators, on the 27th of August 1741. The Building contains upwards of 300 Feet in Length, and is already in a good Forwardness. In digging the Ground for the Foundation the Workmen found a Roman Coin of Nerva, and another of Constantine.

The Charity-schools founded here by the pious Bishop Blackall, in the Year 1709, the good Dean not only bountifully subscribed to, but preached a Sermon before a large Assembly of Governors and Contributors; and after the Sermon, at a Court held for that Purpose, inspected the Rules, inquired into the Causes of Complaint, and prevail'd on the Governors to visit the Schools oftener, and diligently endeavour to render that Charity as useful as possible.

Vol. I. p. 216.

AT Painshill near Cobham in Surrey, is the Seat of the Hon. Charles Hamilton, where is a great Improvement making by inclosing a large Tract of Land designed for a Park, which was most of it so poor as not to produce any thing but Heath and Broom; but by burning of the Heath, and spreading of the Ashes on the Ground, a Crop of Turneps was obtained; and by feeding Sheep on the Turneps, their Dung become a good Manure to the Land, so that a good Sward of Grass is now upon the Land, where it was judged by most People impossible to get any Herbage. This is the sort of Improvement which was mentioned in Norfolk, where Land has been raised from Five Shillings an Acre per Ann. to Thirty or Forty Shillings: and were this sort of Husbandry practised in many other Parts of England, it would be of great Service to the Publick, and greatly increase the Value of the Lands to the Proprietor.

And this leads me to a Reflection on the present advanced Price of Butter and Cheese, (Anno 1742.) which many People attribute intirely to the Two last hard Winters, and the succeeding dry Summers; which must be allowed have greatly contributed towards it; yet these are not the only Causes of it; but there has of late Years been a great Neglect of the Dairy-farms, either from the Poverty of the Farmers, who could not keep up their Stock of Cows, or by ploughing too much of their Grass-ground for raising of Corn. And many Landlords (it is to be feared) have permitted their Tenants to break up too much of their Land for Corn, because of the great Demand there has been for it abroad of late Years; and this has enabled their Tenants to pay their Rent better than otherwise they could have done.

But the Consequence will be severely felt for some Years; for as the Farmers Stock of Cattle has been reduced greatly by this Alteration in the Husbandry, so it will be impossible for them to get Manure enough to keep their Land in Heart; and when this fresh Ground is worn out by Crops, the yearly Value of it will be reduced to less than one Third of what it has produced: so that it is greatly to be feared most of the Estates in England will be lessened in their Rent; and unless the Owners will be at some Expence to lay down properly a Proportion of their Lands for Grass, they can hardly expect ever to see a proper Sward on their Estates; for the Farmers in general have not the least Skill in this particular Branch of Husbandry.

But to return from this Digression: The Lands which Mr. Hamilton has inclosed, have fine Inequalities; for every 100 Yards there are great Hollows, then rising Grounds again, so that the Prospect is continually changing, as you walk over it; and (if we may guess by what this Gentleman has already done) the Whole will be laid out conformable to the natural Situation of the Ground; and when the Plantations, which are already made, are grown up, it will be a delightful Place; and this upon a Spot of Ground, which lay almost neglected, before this Gentleman became possessed of it; so that whatever is here laid cut, will be intirely an Improvement, since without it the Land would have produced very little Rent to the Proprietor. And would the Gentlemen who inclose large Tracts of Land into Parks, follow this Gentleman's Method, of inclosing such Land as is of little Value, and improve it, by making a good Sward upon it, their Estates would be greatly benefited by it.

The House which at present is on this Spot, is very small, being what Mr. Hamilton found built on it by his Predecessor; to which he has only added one handsome Room on the Backside, which is elegantly fitted up, and completely furnished with good Pictures: but as there are so many better Situations for a House in the middle of the Park, so it is supposed this Gentleman will erect a new Mansion-house, answerable to the Design of his Plantations.

The River Mole, which rises near Darking, passes along by the Side of this Park, and in its Course serpents about in so pretty a manner, as that you frequently lose the Sight of it; and by its Windings make the Course almost Four Miles within the Compass of this Inclosure. Indeed this River is very narrow, and in dry Weather the Current is exceeding slow, and the Water not well coloured, which, it must be allowed, takes off from its Beauty; yet there is room for great Improvements, by sloping off the Banks, so as to have a better View of the Water; and in many Places by taking away some of the little Projection of the Banks, it may be widened so as to appear considerable at some Distance: which, if done, will add much to the Beauty of the Place.

Near this Place is the House of Mr. Bridges, which is built in a very singular Taste, something after the Model of an Italian Villa, but very plain on the Outside. The Apartments within seem very commodious, and the principal Rooms are elegantly fitted up, the Ceilings being gilt, and all the Members are richly ornamented: the Offices below are very convenient, and judiciously contrived to answer the Purposes for which they were designed. But what chiefly struck my Curiosity on seeing it, was a false Story contrived on each Side of the House, taken from the Difference in the Height of the Side-rooms, from those principal Apartments: and these are converted into long Galleries with a small Apartment at one End, which affords a Communication between them. In the Attick Story there are very good Lodging-rooms, which are well laid together: so that for the Size of this House, there is hardly any other near London, which has more useful and elegant Apartments.

The Situation of the House is on an Eminence, so that it commands the Prospect of the adjacent Fields, which are kept in very exact Order; and there is a Declivity from the House to the River Mole, which passes along by the Side of this Gentleman's Garden: and here it appears much more considerable than in any other Part of its Course; for Mr. Bridges has taken away so much of the Earth of the Banks, as to make the River, in some Places, Four or Five times broader than it was naturally, so that it makes a handsome Appearance. And by the Side of the Water, he has disposed the Earth into a natural Slope, with a broad Grass-walk, planted with sweet Shrubs on each Side; and at the End of the Walk is a fine Room, which has a View of the Water lengthwise, and is a sweet Retreat in hot Weather, being shaded by large Elm-trees on the South-side, and having the Water on the North and East-sides, which renders it very cool and pleasant. This House is situated about half a Mile from the publick Road to Portsmouth, and is so much hid by the Trees near it, as not to be seen until you rise on the Common or Heath beyond Cobham, where in several Parts of the Road between that and Ripley, you have a fine View of it.

Vol. I. p. 301.

FROM Blandford I took a Turn to view one of the largest and most stately new Fabricks in the Kingdom, I mean the House, or rather Palace, belonging to the Right Hon. George Dodington, Esq It is situated in the Parish of Gunville, Four Miles from Blandford, and Six from Shaftesbury and Cranborn. The House, Gardens and Park, containing in all about Eight Miles in Circumference, are now named Eastbury.

It is a vast and magnificent Structure, its very Offices, at a Distance, resembling no inconsiderable Parish. You approach it through one of the most beautiful Lawns which the Imagination can conceive; and passing through the grand Court, on each Side of which the Offices are ranged in treble Rows, from four Bass Courts, a most stately Portico presents itself, supported by large and beautiful Pillars. Here you ascend by many Steps between the Statues of Two Sphinxes; and having passed the Area of the Portico, you enter a most magnificent Hall, adorned with many Statues and Bustoes, and its Roof painted in a most delicate Taste.

Hence you proceed to the Salon; one of the noblest Rooms in Europe, and which, with its fine Proportion, no less than the Splendor of its Gilding, cannot but strike the most indifferent Beholder.

At one End of this Salon is a princely Apartment, consisting of Three large Rooms furnished, one with Crimson, another with flowered Velvet, and the third with Satin, all richly laced with Gold. At the other End of the Salon is a Drawing-room, and very large Dining-room, both magnificently gilt, as is indeed every Room in this Floor, except only the Hall.

The First Floor above Stairs is distributed into several grand Apartments: but as it is not our Intention, nor have we Room to describe it minutely, we shall pass to the Gardens, which are laid out with surprising Art: but what is most remarkable in them is the vast Collection of foreign Trees of various Kinds, the beautiful Verdure of the Walks, in the midst of a Country whose Turf is of another Colour, especially in Summer. This House was begun by the late Mr. Dodington, and finished by the present. The Architect was Sir John Vanbrugh.

THE following is a comparative Account of the several Cathedral Churches in England and Wales, and of divers other remarkable Churches and Chapels.

LENGTH

BREADTH

HEIGHTH of the

Number of Bells in each Church.

From East to West.

Of the Transept from North to South.

Of the Nave and Side Ayles.

Nave from the Area to the Canopy.

Middle Towers, Lanterns, or Spires.

West Towers or Spires.

ft.

in.

ft.

in.

ft.

in.

ft.

in.

ft.

in.

ft.

in.

St. Albans

550

•17

70

65

144

6

St. Asaph

179

108

68

6

60

93

2

Bangor

214

2

95

10

60

33

10

60

5

Bath

210

126

72

162

8

Beverley

334

4

167

6

64

3

67

166

Bristol

175

128

73

73

128

5

Cambr. King's Coll. Ch.

284

70

70

Canterbury

514

154 upp. Trans.124 low. Trans.

74

80

130 within235 without

100 N.W. Tower130 S.W. Spire

66

Carlisle

219

124

71

71

1•3

5

Chefter

348

•80

73

6

73

127

5

Chichester

401

8

•31

91 in 1 Part62 in another

61

6

260

106

9

6

St. David's

300

•30

72

54

127

3

Dorchester Cathedr. Oxf.

189

69

Durham

411

70

78

69

6

162 within223 without

138

8

Ely

518

•82

76

76

150 within182 without

266

5

— St. Mary's Ch. N. Side

100

50

Exeter

390

140

74

74

N. Tower 130S. Tower 130

10

Gloucester

420

144

84

66

222

8

Hereford

370

140

68

64

240

130

10

Landaff

263

6

65

65

105 N.W. Tower89 S.W. Tower

5

Litchfield

411

154

66

66

240

188

10

Lincoln

498 within530 witht

201 upp. Trans.244 low. Trans.

88177 W. Front

83

124 6 within288 without

270

6

— By another Account

487 within519 witht

192 upp. Trans.227 low. Trans.

82168 W. Front

83

124 within288 without

270

8

London, St. Paul's

500

248

98177 W. Front

88

340

208

Norwich

400

178

71

315

Oxford

150

120

54

41 6 in 1 Part57 in another

144

10

Peterborough

479

10

203

91 4156 W. Front

78

136 within150 without

186 4 N.W. Sp.153 S.W. Tower

10

Rochester

306

122

65

156

6

Selby

3•0

130

130

Salisbury

478

210

76

80

410

8

Southwell

306

121

59

8

Tewkesbury

300

120

70

55

210

8

Wells

371

135

67

67

160

130

56

Westminster, St. Peter's

390

189

75

101

6

— K. Henry VII's Ch.

99

66

54

Winchester

491

186

87

87

150

8

— Lady's Chapel

54545

Worcester

394

126

74

74 or 87

162

8

York

524

280

109140 W. Front

99 in one Part102 in another

192 within234 without

198

12

— By another Account

497

222

1051•• W F••••

96 in one Part 1 •• in another

188 within213 without

196

12

INDEX TO THE THIRD VOLUME.

A

- ABalaba p. 234

- Aberforth p. 107

- Agelorum p. 9

- Ailweston p. 45

- Ainsley p. 64

- Aire, River p. 105, 112

- Aislabie, Mr. his Park p. 119, 120

- Alcock, Bishop p. 181

- Aldborough p. 145, 146

- Alderman of all England, who thus called p. 26

- Alderney, Island p. 269, 270

- Alexander, Bishop p. 2, 6

- Almondbury p. 135

- Alwyn, Founder of Ramsey Abbey p. 26

- Ampthill p. 47

- Ancaster p. 30

- Anglesey, Earls of, whence descended p. 64

- Appendix p. 271 to 298

- Appleby p. 232, 234

- Arbera p. 239.

- Arica p. 269

- Ashbourn p. 70

- Athelbald, King p. 19

- Aukborough p. 11

- Auldby p. 149

- Axelodunum p. 204

- Axholm p. 9

B

- Bakewell p. 90

- Balsover p. 66

- Bantry p. 100, 101

- Barmoot Court, what p. 72

- Barnesley p. 103

- Barrow p. 12

- Barton Ferry p. 11

- Battle, Town p. 8

- Battle of Chevy Chase, p. 207, 208

- Battlesden p. 49

- Beck, Bishop p. 7

- Beckingham p. 33

- Bedal p. 137

- Bede, where born And buried p. 200. 196

- Bedford p. 46, 47

- Bedfordshire, without a City 46. Great Number of Gentlemens Seats in it p. 50

- St. Bees p. 236

- Belton-house p. 31

- Belvoir Castle p. 32

- Bernard's Castle p. 142

- Beverley 172, 173. The Immunities granted to the Freemen thereof 172. Its Minster p. 175, 176

- Biggleswade p. 47

- Bishop's Auckland p. 197

- Bittern, a Bird p. 16

- Blackall, Bishop, his Charity-Schools p. 294

- Blackhall p. 35

- Blith p. 65

- Bolinbroke p. 14

- Bolton p. 222

- Bond, Sir Thomas p. 292

- Borough-Brigg p. 141

- Boston p. 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 31

- Boston Deeps p. 16

- Bottesworth p. 32

- Boulter's Mile-stones p. 27

- Bourne p. 30, 33

- Bowes p. 142

- Bradford p. 136

- Bradshaw, Sir Roger p. 223

- Braham-Moor p. 108

- Brampton p. 243

- Brasington Moor p. 74

- Brazen-nose College at St. Martins, more antient than that at Oxford p. 35

- Bretonomacum p. 226

- Bridges, Mr. his House p. 297

- Brigg-shot, what p. 109

- Brotherton, Village p. 108

- Brovoniacum p. 244

- Brownlow Family p. 31

- Brus, Robert p. 26

- Bugden p. 45

- Bullion-work, remarkable p. 7

- Burgh, a Village p. 83

- Burgh upon the Sands p. 243

- Burham p. 13

- Burleigh on the Hill p. 33, 34

- Burleigh House p. 36 to 38

- Burlington p. 185

- Burlington, Earl of, his noble Seat at Chiswick p. 287, &c.

- Burning Well p. 224

- Burstall p. 134

- Burton p. 12

- Burton upon Trent p. 69

- Bury p. 222

- Buxton Bath p. 76 to 79

- Byrons, the Family of, p. 64

C

- Caesar, Sir Owen p. 242

- Caesa ea p. 255

- Calder, River p. 103, 105, 112, 129, 135

- Camalodunum p. 148

- Campodunum p. 135

- Candle Coal p. 223, 224

- Carham p. 2

- Carlisle City p. 235, and 244, 245

- Carlisle, Earl of, his noble Seat p. 166, 167

- Carps of extraordinary Size p. 259

- Caster 14. The old Roman Highway there p. 38, 39

- Castleford p. 107

- Castle Howard p. 166, 167

- Castleton p. 13

- Cataractonium p. 142

- Catharine of Spain, Queen p. 28, 45, 49

- Cathedral of Lincoln the largest, except York 6. Its Faults p. 157, 158

- Cathedral of Peterborough, the noblest Gothick Building in England p. 28

- Cathedral of York, the most magnificent Gothick Church in Europe p. 156

- Cathedrals of England compar'd, &c. p. 300, 301

- Cavendish Family, their Burial-place p. 68, 69

- Cecil, Lord Burleigh, his noble Monument p. 36

- Chace, a famous p. 240

- Char-fish, where produced p. 229, 245

- Charity School, founded by a Yeoman p. 224

- Charles I. his Picture p. 32

- Charley p. 225

- Chat-moss p. 219

- Chatsworth House p. 85, 90

- Chaworth Village p. 65

- Chaworth Family p. 64

- Chesney, Robert de p. 7

- Chester in the Street p. 198

- Chesterfield p. 91

- Cheviot-hill, and the Battle there p. 206 to 208

- Chiswick, Earl of Burlington's noble Seat there p. 287, &c.

- Clarke, Dr. Alured, Dean of Exon, his Character, and pious Undertakings p. 293

- Clifton Family p. 60

- Clinton House p. 30

- Coals, how many consumed in London p. 203

- Cobham, Lord Viscount, his famous Gardens at Stow p. 271 to 287

- Cockermouth p. 238

- Coningsborough Castle p. 100

- Corby Castle p. 246, 247

- Cotton, Sir Robert p. 26

- Countess Pillar p. 240, 241

- Cows and Oxen the large•…, where p. 228

- Craven, Sir William p. 137

- Craven, a hilly Country p. 136

- Crocodile, a Skeleton of one p. 5

- Cromwell, Oliver, where born 44. His Farm p. 45

- Crowland 19. The famous Bridge there p. 20

- St. Cuthbert's Patrimony p. 196

D

- Danes, where they landed p. 9

- Darlington, what remarkable for p. 144

- Dearness of Butter and Cheese, (Anno 1742) to what owing p. 295, 296

- Decoy-ducks, how brought up p. 22 to 24

- Denton, a Seat p. 115

- Derby Town, and Curiosities there p. 67, 68

- Derby, the Earl of, beheaded p. 222

- Derby, Countess of, defends Latham House p. 225

- Derventio p. 69

- Derventis p. 149

- Derwent, River p. 70, 71, 86, 91, 149, 187, 238, 239

- Devil looks over Lincoln, whence derived p. 6

- Devil's Arrows p. 147

- Devil's Arse in the Peak p. 82

- Devon••ire, Duke of, his Seat p. 85, 90

- Dodington, George, Esq his House p. 298, 299.

- Domitian, an Urn with his Coin p. 9

- Doncaster p. 101

- Dorman Pence p. 15

- Dornfield p. 92

- Dove, River, compared to the Nile 70. Its Rise p. 91

- Downs p. 1

- Dun, River 9. Its Rise p. 91

- Dunington p. 33

- Dunstable p. 49, 50

- Durham 195. The Bishop of, a Temporal Prince 196, 197. Has thirteen Livings in his Gift p. 196

- Durobrivis p. 14, 38

E

- East Retford p. 64

- Easter, a Controversy about its Celebration p. 192

- Ebodia p. 269

- Eboracum p. 149

- Eccleston p. 225

- Eden, River p. 233

- Edmund, where inaugurated p. 33

- Edward I. Place of his Death p. 243

- Eggleston p. 142

- Egremont p. 236

- Elden Hole in the Peak p. 84, 85

- Elenborough p. 239, 240

- Emeril, where found p. 267

- Entrenchment, by King Stephen p. 5

- Epitaph, a remarkable one 102. Robin Hood's p. 134

- Erection Lands p. 17

- Erith Town p. 45

- Eure, River p. 140

F

- Fells, what they are p. 231

- Fernby p. 225

- Figures in Lord Cobham's Gardens at Stow p. 285

- Fish, bow brought to London alive, from Lincolnshire p. 25

- Fitz-Williams, Lord p. 40

- Flamborough-head, a Promontory p. 187

- Flodden-field 208. The Defeat of the Scots there ibid.

- Foderinghay Castle p. 27

- Folkingham p. 30

- Fortune-tellers, how to be punished p. 230, 231

- Forty-feet-way p. 39

- Fourness, a Tract of Ground p. 229

- Fox, Richard, Bishop p. 31

- Frobisher, Sir Martin p. 102, 103

- Furness, Henry, Esq p. 291

G

- Gainsburgh p. 8

- Gascoigne, Sir William p. 114

- Gateshead p. 200

- Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster p. 5

- Giant's-tomb, a high Mountain p. 74

- Gilling p. 141, 142

- Gipsies, Streams of Water so called p. 186

- Gisborough p. 193, 194

- Glass-painting remarkable p. 7

- Grantham p. 31

- Green, John, the famous Pinder p. 104

- Grimsby p. 13, 16

- Grimsthorpe p. 32

- Gronnard, a Fish p. 258

- Guash, River p. 39

- Guernsey, Island p. 266 to 269

- Gunnersbury House p. 290, 291

- Guthlac, a Chaplain p. 19, 20, 28

H

- Haddon, a Palace p. 90

- Halifax, the most populous Parish in Engl. p. 129 to 134

- Hallamshire, Cutlers of p. 93

- Hambleton-down p. 167

- Hamilton, the Honourable Charles, his Seat p. 295, 296

- Hartington p. 72

- Hartlepool p. 195

- Harwood Town p. 114

- Haughton p. 3

- Heathcote, Sir John p. 21

- Hell Kettles p. 144

- Henry IV. Birth and Title p. 14

- Henry V. committed to the King's B. when Prince p. 114

- Herman-street p. 25, 26

- Hexham 204. The first Blood in the Civil War drawn near it ibid.

- Higham-ferris p. 41

- Hile, Lake p. 216

- Hinchinbroke-house p. 45

- Holbech p. 18

- Holland, in Lincolnshire p. 16

- Horn, a famous one p. 163, 164

- Horn-castle p. 14

- Hornby-castle p. 228

- Hornsey p. 185

- Horses, the best for Hunting, &c. where p. 138

- Howdon p. 170

- Hugh, the Burgundian p. 7

- Hull p. 178, 184

- Humber River, whence its Name p. 11, 15

- Huntingdon Town 42, 43. Given to King David of Scotland p. 43

- Hussey, Lord, beheaded p. 4

- Huthersfield p. 135

I

- James I. his Jest on the Lumley Family p. 198

- Jenkins, Henry, his remarkable great Age p. 140, 141

- Jerby p. 239

- Jersey, Island p. 255 to 266

- Jews crucify a Child 4. Are most furiously massacred p. 152 to 154

- Inn, one of the greatest in England p. 34

- Inscription upon a Sessions-house 10. On a Sexton who buried Two Queens 29. On a Bridge 44. On a Bell 69. At Buxton-Bath 78, 79. On an Hospital 94. On a Roman Altar 151. On a Horn 164. On Beverley-cross 174. In Beverley Minster 176, 177. In Memory of Michael de la Pole 182. On the Countess Pillar 241. In Memory of King Edward I. 243. On a Mace p. 265

- Inscriptions in the famous Gardens of Lord Cob ham at Stow, on several Heroes, Great Men, &c. p. 282 to 287

- St. John Evangelist, his Reliques, where buried p. 176

- Johnson, Counsellor p. 15

- Irwell, River p. 222

- Isurium p. 117

- Isurium Brigantium p. 146

- Ivel, River p. 46

- St. Ives p. 45

- Julian's Bower p. 12

K

- Keel-men, who p. 201

- Kelingholme-castle p. 13

- Kendal p. 231, 232

- Keswick p. 238

- Kettering p. 41

- Kimbolton castle p. 45

- Kiniobantum ibid.

- Kinsbury p. 49

- Kirk-Oswald p. 243

- Kiveton p. 99

- Knaresborough p. 115, 116

- Kyneburg, Abbess p. 15

L

- Lancashire Witches p. 230

- Lancaster 226, 227. The successive Princes of that House p. 229, 230

- Lançon, a Fish p. 238

- Lanesborough, a Seat p. 167

- Latham-house gallantly defended by a Lady p. 225

- Laughton Church p. 98

- Leathern Boat p. 181

- Lebberston p. 187

- Leeds p. 108, 109

- Leighton p. 50

- Lincoln City 2 to 8. The Diocese the largest in England p. 8

- Lincoln Heath or Downs p. 1, 8

- Lindum Colonia p. 2

- Little Chester p. 69

- Littleborough p. 9

- Liverpoole, its impaired Condition p. 210, 211, 212, 216

- Lombe, Sir Thomas, his Engine for throwing Silk 67. Rewarded by Parliament p. 68

- Long Meg and her Three Daughters, a Trophy p. 246

- Longovicum p. 227

- Lonsdale p. 232

- Lovetofts p. 42

- Louth p. 14, 31

- Louther Family, great Benefactors to Whitehaven 236. Sir John's great Dealings in Coals p. 237

- Louther, River p. 232

- Lowick Church, and Monuments there p. 40

- Ludi Trojani p. 12

- Lugovallum p. 244

- Lumley-castle p. 298

- Lusus Naturae p. 192

- Lutan p. 50

- Lyn p. 47

- Lyn Deeps p. 16

M

- Maiden, an Engine so called p. 134

- Mam Tor, in the Peak p. 81

- Malton p. 148

- Manchester p. 219 to 222

- Mancunium p. 221

- Mansfield p. 64

- Market Deeping p. 30

- Marston Moor p. 166

- St. Martin •s Bay p. 34

- Marts, only Four Fairs so called in England p. 17

- Mary I. Queen p. ibid.

- Mary, Queen of Scots, her Monument p. 28

- Matlock, its warm Springs, &c. p. 72, 73

- Maud, Empress p. 3

- Memorial of a Plague p. 242

- Mersee, River p. 91, 210

- Methodists depreciate the Works of Arcbhishop Tillotson p. 131

- Minster of Lincoln p. 1

- Mites, Coins so called p. 9

- Mole, River p. 297, 298

- Monmouth, Geoffrey, his History treated abusively p. 185, 186

- Monuments of British Worthies in Lord Cobham's Gardens at Stow p. 281 to 284

- — of Druidical Superstitions p. 264

- — of Popish Superstitions p. 264, 265

- Moresby p. 238

- Mortimer's-hole p. 57

- Mosses, what they are p. 217 to 219

N

- St. Neots on the Ouse p. 45

- Newbie, a stately Seat p. 120, 121

- Newcastle p. 200, & seq.

- Newcome, Daniel, his Improvements of the Church in Sunderland p. 199

- Newport-gate, the noblest Remnant of this Sort in Britain p. 3

- Newsted p. 64

- Newton p. 224

- Newton, Sir Isaac, where born 40. Where he received his first Principles of Literature p. 31

- Northumberland p. 205

- Northumberland Wharle p. 208

- Nottingham, and its Vaults p. 54, 55

- Nottingham castle p. 56, 57

- Nottinghamshire p. 54

- Nyne, River p. 25, 28, 39, 41

O

- Ocellum p. 185

- Okeham Town and Castle p. 33

- Ormer, a Fish p. 258

- Oundle, and its famous Drumming-well p. 40

- Ouse, River p. 16, 44

P

- Painshill, the Seats of the Honourable Charles Hamilton, and Mr. Bridges, there p. 295 to 298

- Parmesan, English, p. 42

- Parton p. 245

- Partridge, exceeding beautiful, where p. 257

- Patrington p. 184, 185

- Peakrills p. 71

- Peckham, Lord Trevor's Seat p. 292

- Pendragon-castle p. 241

- Penrith p. 241, 242

- Perith p. 234

- Peterborough p. 28, 29

- Pickering p. 148

- Picts Wall p. 235

- Pingent-hill p. 136, 137

- Plaister prodigiously fine p. 30

- Plumtree, Mr. his House p. 59

- Pocklington p. 171

- Pontefract Town and Castle p. 105 to 107

- Poole's-hole, in the Peak p. 79 to 81

- Popish Inhumanity, an Instance of it p. 268, 269

- Potton p. 47

- Poulton p. 226

- Powder-Plot, by whom discovered p. 228

- Powis, Judge, exceedingly frighted p. 58

- Praetorium p. 185

- Preston 225. Whence the Name of Proud p. 226

Q.

- Quarn, Village p. 71

R

- R, the Northumberland Shibboleth p. 208

- Ramsey p. 26

- Ravenglass p. 236

- Raversburgh p. 184

- Register Offices, only Two in England p. 174

- Remigius p. 2, 6

- Ribble, River p. 225

- Ribchester p. 226

- Richmond p. 138, 139

- Rippon p. 116, 117

- Rivers in England, the principal, enumerated p. 254

- Rivers in the North p. 129

- Roads of England, Observations upon them p. 247 to 254

- Roberts, the Reverend Mr. Edward, his and his Brother's excellent Characters p. 34

- Robin Hood, his Epitaph p. 134

- Rochdale p. 124, 125, 223

- Rock Abbey p. 98

- Rock hewn into a Church, &c. p. 60

- Rotherham p. 95

- Rothwell p. 41

- Rufford p. 65

- Rutlandshire p. 33

S.

- Sacred Stone, by whom brought from Scotland p. 243

- Sadberg, Earl of p. 196

- Salkeld p. 246

- Salmon, Newcastle, from whence brought to London p. 203

- Saltfleet p. 13

- Sampringham, a Monastery p. 30

- Sandbeck p. 97

- Sands, Archbishop, his Monument p. 63

- Sandwich, Earl of, his Seat p. 44

- Sarnia p. 266

- Scarborough 187. An Account of the Accident that happened to the Spaw there p. 188, 191

- Schulemberg, Duchess of Kendal p. 232

- Scotish Branch of the Royal Family, whence descended p. 26

- Scots perfidiously sell their King, where, and for how much p. 204

- Sculpture, English, antient Piece p. 26

- Seaford p. 33

- Segeloci, full of Remnants of Antiquities p. 30

- Selby p. 169

- Serpents, stony p. 192

- Settle p. 136

- Sharp, Archbishop, where born p. 136

- Sheals or Shields p. 200

- Sheffield p. 93, 95

- Shefford p. 47

- Shirbourn p. 169

- Shirwood Forest, and several noble Houses there p. 61

- Skiddaw, the highest Hill in England p. 239

- Skipton p. 136

- Smyris, where found p. 267

- Snath p. 169

- Southwell Town and Church p. 61 to 63

- Spalding p. 18, 20

- Spaw at Scarborough. See Scarborough p. 188

- Spilsby p. 14

- Spurn-head, a Promontory p. 184

- Stainthorp p. 143

- Stamborough p. 96

- Stamford, Inns p. 31, & seq.

- Stangate-hole p. 42

- Stanmore Hills p. 143

- Stanhope p. 197

- Stephen, King, taken Prisoner p. 8

- Stilton, famous for Cheese p. 42

- Stockton p. 194

- Stokesby 145. A bloody Battle fought there ibid.

- Stow, the famous Gardens of Lord Cobham there p. 271 to 287

- Strenshall p. 192

- Stukely, Little and Great p. 25

- Sunderland p. 198

- Swale Dale p. 140

- Swale, River p. 139

- Swan Pool p. 2, 4

- Swine-penies, a Coin so called p. 9

- Swintham Bottom filled by Gipsies p. 186

T

- Tadcaster p. 167, 168

- Talbot Family, whence descended 65. Antient Monuments of them p. 94

- Tallard, Count, his Gardens and Gallantries p. 57

- Taxford in the Clays p. 64

- Tees, River p. 142

- Thomlinson, Dr. Robert p. 202

- Thoresby p. 65

- Thorn p. 169

- Thornton-college p. 12, 13

- Thorp 29. Statues there ibid.

- Thrapston p. 41

- Three Brethren, famous Oaks p. 240

- Tickhill p. 99

- Tideswell, one of the Wonders of the Peak p. 83

- Till, River p. 208

- Tillotson, Archbishop, his Birth-place p. 131

- Tom of Lincoln, the great Bell so called p. 6

- Tower, the highest in England p. 6

- Towton, and the bloody Battle fought there p. 168, 189

- Trench, a famous one p. 95

- Trent, River p. 1, 8, 9, 51, 53, 58

- Trevor, late Lord, his Seat at Peckham 292. See also Vol. I. p. 233.

- Tuckfield, John, Esq p. 294

- Tyne, River p. 233

V.

- Vere-court p. 13

- Vipsies, what p. 186

- Vortimer, King, where he died p. 8

- Uppingham p. 33

- Utcester p. 70

- Utocetum ibid.

W

- Wainfleet p. 13, 16

- Wakefield p. 103

- Walker, William p. 31

- Wallaton-hall p. 60

- Wandsford p. 42

- Warbois p. 43

- Warrington p. 216, 217

- Warton p. 227

- Wathorp-house p. 40

- Web, the Architect p. 290

- Welbeck p. 65

- Well, burning p. 224

- Welland, River p. 18, 19, 30, 36, 39

- Wensdale p. 140

- Wentworth, an old Seat p. 95, 96

- Were, River p. 195

- Were-dyke p. 3

- Westmorland Militia, their Bravery p. 234, 235

- West Retford p. 65

- Wetherby p. 167

- Whale, a vast Rib of one p. 11

- Wharle of the Northumberland People p. 208

- Wherfe, River p. 114

- Whitby p. 191 to 193

- Whitlesea Mere p. 25, 26

- Wigan p. 223

- Whitehaven p. 236, 237

- Wighton p. 171

- Wild Geese p. 193

- St. Wilfrid's Needle p. 119

- William I. curbs the Lincoln Citizens p. 8

- Winchester College p. 13

- Winick p. 217

- Wintringham p. 11

- Wirksop Manor p. 64

- Wirk•worth, the remarkable Court there p. 72

- Witches at Warbois p. 43

- Witches in Lancashire 230. Act against them repealed ibid.

- Witham, River p. 5, 14, 16, 17, 33

- Woburn Town p. 48

- Woburn Abbey ibid.

- Walsingham p. 197

- Woulds, what p. 171

- Wry-nose, a high Hill p. 245

Y.

- Yarborough p. 13

- Yarley p. 41, 42

- Yarrow p. 200

- Yarum p. 145

- Yew-tree, a famous one p. 97

- York City, its Antiquities and Curiosities p. 149 to 156, 166

- York, Duke of, where killed p. 104

- Yorkshire, its Extent, &c. p. 92

- Yorkshire Ale, where in its Perfection p. 135

Z

- Zouch, Bishop, defeats the Scots p. 196

Information about this book

Title statement

A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.3]

Defoe, Daniel, 1661?-1731.

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University of Oxford Text Archive
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ID [ota]

http://ota.ox.ac.uk/id/4529

ID [isbn10]

1106015282

ID [isbn13]

9781106015280

ID [TCP]

K060142.003

ID [BIBNO]

CW3300650949

ID [ECLL]

0141100403

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Source

— A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ..., Defoe, Daniel, 1661?-1731.. The third edition. With very great additions, .. which bring it down to the year 1742. ... 4v. ; 12⁰. London :: printed for J. Osborn, S. Birt, D. Browne, J. Hodges, A. Millar, J. Whiston, and J. Robinson,. 1742.. [A gentleman = Daniel Defoe.] [Reproduction of original from the British Library.] [Moore, 459-461] [Goldsmiths', 7879] [English Short Title Catalog, ESTCT70851.] [Electronic data. Farmington Hills, Mich. : Thomson Gale, 2003. Page image (PNG). Digitized image of the microfilm version produced in Woodbridge, CT by Research Publications, 1982-2002 (later known as Primary Source Microfilm, an imprint of the Gale Group).]

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